MASTER OF FASHION MANAGEMENT

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION MANAGEMENT STUDIES

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, CHENNAI.

APPAREL QUALITY MANAGEMENT

QUALITY CONTROL MANUAL

SUBMITTED BY
GURPREET KAUR SLAICH (MFM/17/987)
HIBA NASIR (MFM/17/696)
HARSHA VARDHINI. D (MFM/17/319)
INDU SINGH (MFM/17/1034)

1|Page
 VASTRAM EXPORTS
Poyampalayam Pirivu,, P.N.Road, Tirupur-641602,
Tamil Nadu, India.
Phone: 0421-2201218, 0421-2201215.

Sector: Consumer Discretionary

Industry: Apparel & Textile products.

VASTRAM EXPORTS was founded in 1994, Head quartered in Tirupur and have factories in
Erode and Karur. From a modest growth at the time of inception to the current business volume
of US$50 million per annum, the company has come a long way. We currently cater Men’s
Knitted garments and Kid’s wear. Our company is a name synonymous with success and
accomplishment. It is one among pioneer manufacturing and exporting garment in Tirupur. The
various department of the company are coordinated in such a way that optimum efficiency is
obtained.

Product development is the real strength of the company. An excellent product development
system, managed by a creative team of professionals capable of producing and providing design
inputs by constantly monitoring worldwide requirements.
At Vastram we produce quality garments that can guarantee complete customer satisfaction.
We can create the right and high quality product that the customers requires and deliver it at
the right time.

2|Page
 TABLE OF CONTENT
Serial No. Topic Page no.
INTRODUCTION
1.0 Scope 5
1.1 Policy 5
1.2 Application 5
2.0 AMENDMENTS & REVISION OF QUALITY 5
MANUAL
2. 1 Revision control 5
2. 2 Reviews 5
3. 0 ORGANIZATION 5
3. 1 Quality manager 5
3. 2 Responsibilities 6
4 .0 OUALITY PROGRAME 6
4 .1 Planning 6
4.2 Indoctrination and training 6
5. 0 PROCUREMENT DOCUMENT CONTROL 6
5 .1 System procurement 6
5. 2 Review & Approval 7
5 .3 Changes to document 7
6. 0 SAMPLING 7
6.1 First approval samples 7
6.2 Pre-Production samples 8
6.3 Shipping samples 9
7.0 FABRIC AND ACCESSORIES 10
7.1 Fabric and accessories : General Quality Requirements 10
7.2 Fabric specific quality requirements 10
7.3 Accessory quality requirements 11
7.4 Submission and approval of fabric and accessories 13
7.5 Mandatory fabric tests 15
7.6 Testing laboratories 18
8.0 GARMENT CONSTRUCTION 18
8.1 Manufacturing process inspection
 Spreading
 Cutting 18
 Sewing
 Finishing

8.2 Product safety and accessory requirement 22

3|Page
 9.0 LABELLING AND PACKAGING 22
9.1 Compliance guidelines 23
9.2 Label approvals and testing 24
9.3 Packaging approvals and testing 25
9.4 Label attachment 27
9.5 Shipment packing 28
10.0 FINAL INSPECTION TO AQL STANDARD 30
11.0 COMPLIANCE WITH LAWS 34
11.1 Employment contract 34
11.2 Labor 34
11.3 Occupational health and safety 35
11.4 Machine/equipment and safety 35

4|Page
1.0 SCOPE

This manual describes VASTRAM EXPORTS’s Quality System Policies and

Procedures. These policies and procedures control all activities from Supplier
procurement to customer shipment of articles.

1.1 POLICY

The quality program is developed to assure customer satisfaction by providing quality

products. We will perform all activities in a manner, which meets or exceeds the expectations
of our customers.

1.2 APPLICATION

The quality System described here is mandatory for all activities performed at VASTRAM
EXPORTS to assure product conformance to the applicable drawing, catalog item
specification and/or contract requirement.

2.0 AMENDMENTS & REVISIONS TO THE QUALITY

MANUAL

2.1 REVISION CONTROL

This manual will be revised by Quality Assurance as required. Whenever revisions occur, all
holders of controlled copies will be distributed copies of the application revised pages,
including a new revision page describing the changes.

2.2 REVIEWS

Management reviews of operations are continuous and any problems indicated with the Quality
Program or its implementation will be addressed and corrected as directed by Management.

3.0 ORGANIZATION

3.1 QUALITY MANAGER

The Quality Manager reports directly to the President and is delegated authority and
organizational freedom to identify and evaluate quality problems and to initiate, recommend
or provide solutions.

5|Page
3.2 RESPONSIBILITIES
The Quality Manager is responsible for:
 Update and distribution control of the Quality Manual as required.
 Planning to meet customer's quality requirements.
 Approval of quality work instructions.
 Directing inspection activities.
 Approval of Suppliers.
 Maintaining a listing of approved suppliers.
 Monitoring procedures to assure compliance
 Reviewing and maintaining Quality Records.
 Approval of disposition of Nonconforming Articles
 Corrective action coordination.

4.0 QUALITY PROGRAM

4.1 PLANNING

The Quality Program is planned to control products from the requirements of a customer
order to include procurement practices, receipt of material, receipt inspection of supplier
material, handling and storage to the eventual shipment of an article to our customer.

4.2 INDOCTRINATION AND TRAINING

Employees are indoctrinated and trained, as necessary, to assure that suitable proficiency is
achieved and maintained throughout our operation systems. Training is performed as "On
the Job Training" under the direct supervision of management.

5.0 PROCUREMENT DOCUMENT CONTROL

5.1 SYSTEM OF PROCUREMENT

Procurement documents are manually generated and include appropriate technical and quality
requirements. When a customer has special requirements, such as a Certified Material Test
Report, our program is designed to include the requirement into our procurement documents.

6|Page
5.2 REVIEW AND APPROVAL

Procurement documents are reviewed and approved by the Purchasing Manager. The Quality
Manager performs random surveillance of procurement documents semiannually and
documents the results.

5.3 CHANGES TO DOCUMENTS

Changes to procurement documents are subject to the same level of control as in preparation of
the original document.

6.0 SAMPLING

6.1 FIRST APPROVAL SAMPLE

This sample must match the specification for approval of fit and construction and must be
accompanied by the necessary paperwork.
The sample must be made in fabrics and accessories that are correct weight type,
stretch factor, handle and finish required by the specification.
The fabric and accessories do not have to be the correct colour, however, ensure that they are
provided in the same colour family.

What sizes to be submit?

Infant: size 0 & or 2( depending on the size range of the order)

Girls: size 3, 7, 8, 12 & 16
Boys: size 3, 7, 8, 12
Women: size medium
Men : size medium

What to submit?

1. Approval samples garment

2. Sample swing ticket stating : Supplier name : Style no., Date
3. Sample status example 1st approval sample

7|Page
SAMPLE SWINGTICKET

What must be on the swing ticket?

1. The Warehouse Style number

2. The date
3. The sample status eg : Pre Production
4. The supplier’s name
5. The factory’s name (if available)

Lab Dips and Print Strike-offs

Lab dips are to be sent to the Buyer for approval.

Print strike-offs are approved by the Buyer for colour and design only. All quality aspects of
print strike-offs must be approved by QA.

Lab Test

Third party lab test are required on fabrics. Details of the test requirements can be found in
Testing of Fabric, Accessories and Labeling.

6.2 PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE

The purpose of this sample is to issue final approval pending the commencement of production.
Any fit or construction amendments requested in the 1st approval report must have been made on
this sample made by approval.
Fabric and accessories must also receive final approval at this stage. All colourways on order to
be submitted. The sample must be measured prior to submission and measurements noted on the
accompanying copy of size chart.
Pre production samples must be made up in the actual bulk fabric with the actual bulk
accessories, labels, swingtangs, bar codes stickers etc.
If fabric testing has been requested the lab test report must accompany this sample. An email
copy of the invoice is acceptable
.

8|Page
What sizes to be submit?

Infant: size 0 & or 2( depending on the size range of the order)

Girls: size 3, 7, 8, 12 & 16
Boys: size 3, 7, 8, 12
Women: size medium
Men : size medium

What to submit ?

1. Approval sample garment

2. Sample swingticket stating
3. Supplier name :
4. Style No:
5. Date:
6. Sample status: eg pre production sample
7. Approval sample request form
8. Size specification form
9. Garment specification form
10. Fabric lab test report (if required)

SAMPLE SWING TICKET

1. The Warehouse style no:

2. The date:
3. The sample status: Pre- Production
4. The suppliers name
5. The factory’s name (if available )

6.3 SHIPPING SAMPLES

 Note that two garments are to be sent at the shipping sample stage.
 These two samples must have been taken randomly from the bilk production bulk. The
samples must be measured prior to submission and measurements noted on the
accompanying copy at the size chart.

9|Page
7.0 FABRICS AND ACCESSORIES:

This Section provides guidelines for the Warehouse’s requirements in terms of quality and
functionality of fabrics and accessories, including the fabric test requirements.

This section contains:

 General requirements,
 Fabric specific quality requirement,
 Accessory quality requirement
 Test requirement

7.1 General Quality Requirements

The quality of all the fabrics and accessories used on apparel must be of a commercially
acceptable standard and meet all stated quality standards.
In a situation where a quality issue arises, either from the buyer/customer or as a identified by
QA shipping then it require to have further testing carried out. All testing is at the factory’s
expense.

7.2 Fabric-Specific Quality Requirements:

This table the table below gives the guidelines for quality requirements for various fabric types.

FABRIC QUALITY GUIDELINES

Corduroy Use only “W” back type cords unless
specifies otherwise in the Garment
Specification in Buyer’s order details.
Fill or Wadding Usually lighter weight of fill use in hoods
and sleeves than is used in the body.

Pocket flaps and collars have a lighter

weight again.
Laminated Fabrics These must not show signs of de-lamination
or bubbling
Interfacings Fusible must be correctly fused and not
show signs of de-lamination, bubbling,
strike-through or strike-back.

Type of interfacing must be carefully

10 | P a g e
 matched to the fabric type.

Stretch fabrics require specific interfacing

so that they either allow the fabric to stretch
or restrict it without breaking down- each of
these factors being dependent on styling.

The colour of the interfacing used must be

matched to the outer fabric colours, as in
correctly coloured interfacing can show
through the fabric or can be obvious on
buttonholes. Black or charcoal colour
interfacing must be used in mid to dark
colours and white coloured interfacing on
white and light colours.

Fabrics to be used for children’s
nightwear and other daywear
Fabrics, accessories and trims for this
category of apparel must comply with all
the necessary standards that the buyer’s
specify and The Country Regulations
specify

7.3 Accessories Quality Requirements:

This table: The table below gives the guidelines for quality requirements for various accessory
types:
ACCESSORY QUALITY GUIDELINES
Drawcords/ties Chunky type cotton drawcords that do not
have toggles on the ends must have knotted
ends. For drawcord/ tie requirements refer
to Product Safety in Section Three:
Garment Construction.

Synthetic drawcord ends must be neatly

heat-sealed and must not be sealed with an
open flame.

Flat drawcord ends must have the cut ends

turned under and stitched in place or have
knotted ends.

11 | P a g e
Elastic There must be no run-back of elastomeric
yarn at the cut ends.

Elastic must be joined to prevent run-back.

Zips All zips must be sourced from the
nominated zipper supplier.

 All zippers must meet the current

compliance guidelines of the
exporting country standards for
material tests.
 All zippers must meet the
colourfastness standards.
 All zippers must be branded with the
registered brand name (unless that is
not possible due to zip design)
 For all open-ended zippers a
functional stopper mechanism must
be placed at the top of the zipper
tape to prevent the slider from being
removed from the zip. On nylon coil
zips the stoppers must be plastic.

Fake branded zips should not be accepted

Metal Accessories All accessories that are metal or have metal
parts must be non-toxic and must not have
any nickel content. Paint on metal
components must be non-toxic and must not
chip off.

All metal components rustproof.

Edges of accessories must not be sharp; e.g.

top corners of zips, underside of rivets and
eyelets.

Metal eyelets must have plastic washers on

the underside.

Studs must be arrow-head type. All domes,

12 | P a g e
 studs and poppers must be applied using a
compressed air machine- these accessories
must not be applied by hand. Plastic
washers MUST be used in infants; and
children’s wear and may be used if needed
on Adult’s wear
Satin ribbon bows Ends of these components must be out by
hot-wire, they must not be heat sealed with
open flame.
Thread For Lightweight Fabrics:
Polyester wrap core thread @ 24Tex

For Medium weight Fabrics:

Polyester wrap core thread @30Tex

For Heavy weight Fabrics:

Polyester wrap core thread @60Tex

For PU, PVC, Leather:

Cotton soft glace finished thread @40-
50Tex

For Denim and Heavy Canvas:

Cotton soft mercerized finished thread
@40-50Tex

Monofilament thread is not to be used under

any circumstances.

7.4 Submission and Approval of Fabrics and Accessories

Garment format required:

All Fabrics and accessories must be audited in garment, QA cannot approve fabrics as piece
goods or accessories if they are not applied or attached to the garment that they are intended for.

This is because the performance of a fabric or accessory may adversely affect the garment, and
this is impossible to predict unless QA audit the fabric and accessories in the garment’s finished
state.

13 | P a g e
Visual Approval only:

QA approval reports will approve fabrics and accessories from a visual aspect only.
If a performance issue on an approval sample is obvious to QA the production department will
be advised to amend the issue.

Testing of Fabric, Accessories and Labeling:

Three testing levels: There are three levels of fabric, accessory that the warehouse require- they
are, General, Specific and Legal.

General: All fabric and accessories should be tested on a regular basis to ensure that they are
commercially acceptable as per the legal requirements of the legal standards and regulations
referred to in Compliance Guidelines of exporting country.

Specific: The fabric and accessories are to be tested by a third party to the performance levels
stated in the tables in the Mandatory Fabric Tests section.

Legal: In accordance with the legal requirements of the standards Children’s

nightwear and other daywear specific fabrics and trims must be tested for
Flammability.

Other responsibility:

 Testing Laboratories that are to be used for apparel product are listed in this section.
 All required testing must be carried out prior to submission of the sample for approval.
 The lab test report must be an original document from the testing laboratory. Photocopies
or faxed copies of the lab test are not acceptable.
 One report will suffice for multiple styles and orders per season. In this situation, all
styles numbers that the report pertains to must be listed on the report.
 Tests reports must state the order numbers and style number and have relevant fabric
swatches attached.

14 | P a g e
7.5 Mandatory Fabric Tests:

Testing will be required for all orders with a quantity of 2500 pieces or more.

For orders with a quantity of less than 2500 pieces, the quality department will conduct
random tests with available resources in the factory.

What tests are required?

The table below denoted which tests are required to be performed on woven and knitted fabric
types.
The second table provides more information on the colourfastness tests that are required.

TESTS FABRIC TYPE

Woven Knitted

Fibre analysis On request On request

(Composition/ Fibre
content)
Construction On request On request
Yarn Count On request On request
Weight On request On request

Dimensional stability** ✓ ✓
(shrinkage)
To washing All garments with fabric All garments with fabric
To dry cleaning that can be washed. that can be washed.
All garments which are All garments which are
categorised as dry categorised as dry
clean only. clean only.

Spirality N/A ✓

Tensile strength* Microfiber, corduroy, satin, N/A

taffeta, (fabric with shiny
finish), flannel, chemically
treated garments/ fabrics
(washed jeans, wrinkle free,
resin treated cottons)

15 | P a g e
Tear strength ✓ N/A

Colour Fastness ✓ ✓

Seam Slippage ✓ ✓

Pilling ✓ ✓

Stretch & Recovery Only for- All fabrics with ✓

elastane.

Water Repellence Rainwater & Skiwear N/A

Flammability As per legal requirements of As per legal requirements of

the standards. the standards.

UPF As per legal requirements of As per legal requirements of

the standards. the standards.

Water N/A On request for relevant

Absorbency/Wicking fabrics

Colourfastness Tests:

TESTS GARMENT COLOURWAY TYPE

Washing ✓
For all garments that can be washed

Light fastness ✓
Underwear/sleepwear not required

Dry Cleaning ✓
For garments which are categorised as dry clean only

Sea water/ chlorinated water ✓ swim wear

Rubbing wet & dry ✓

All Sleepwear

16 | P a g e
Print appearance after washing ✓ All garments with prints

TESTS GARMENT COLOURWAY TYPE

“Plain dyed & Yarn Dyed”
Light shades Medium dark shades

Washing ✓ ✓

For all garments that can be washed

Light fastness ✓ ✓

Underwear/sleepwear not required

Dry Cleaning ✓ ✓

For garments which are categorised as dry clean only

Sea water/ chlorinated water N/A N/A

Rubbing wet & dry N/A ✓

All Sleepwear

Print appearance after washing ✓ ✓

TESTS GARMENT COLOURWAY TYPE

“Printed”
Light shades Medium dark shades

Washing ✓ ✓

For all garments that can be washed

Light fastness ✓ ✓

Underwear/sleepwear not required

Dry Cleaning ✓ ✓

For garments which are categorised as dry clean only

Sea water/ chlorinated water N/A N/A

Rubbing wet & dry N/A ✓

17 | P a g e
 All Sleepwear

Print appearance after washing ✓ ✓

7.6 Testing Laboratories:

Nominated supplier:
For all fabric tests conducted in India, SGS is the nominated supplier. All the vendors/suppliers
will receive a 30% discount off the list price for tests being conducted for the warehouse (they
need to inform SGS that the tests are for the Vastram exports to receive the discount). SGS is
aware of our standards and familiar with what type of tests are to be conducted for the required
standards.

SGS India- Tirupur

Office address:
134, Shivashaktinagar, College Road, Tripur, Tamil Nadu 641602
India

Contact:+91 421 6630100

+91 421 2204092

8.0 GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

8.1 MANUFACTURING PROCESS INSPECTION

SPREADING

Following points must be taken care of by the cutting quality

i n s p e c t o r a t t h e t i m e o f spreading.

 Table marking
 Ends
 Tension
 Narrow goods
 Remnants
 Counts

18 | P a g e
  Ply height
 Marker Placing
 Fabric Flaws.

CUTTING

 Monitor accessories inspection, fabric inspection, and cutting inspection

 Submit all inspection report to manager QA factory
 Collection of tri, card and shade band card from manager QA to compare the lot during
inspection.
 Conduct cut panel inspection and accessories inspection as per sampling
inspection plan.
 Monitor spreading quality control and cutting quality control.
 Cutting inspection should be on the basis on random sampling on
desired AQL.
 I f t h e l o t i s passed on sampling inspection then it is send for sewing operation, if not
passed the whole lot is re-inspected and rejected parts are replaced by good
parts.
 Following points are inspected such as Size, Parts, Pattern check, Miss -cut,
Ragged cutting, Notches, Matching plies.

HOW TO MEASURE

Men’s wear

19 | P a g e
KIDS WEAR

SEWING

 Inspection in sewing involves the inspection of work from each operation, with a quality
standard established to limit the amount of bad work and a provision for operators to
re-inspect and repair entire bundles .
 A complete manufacturing process chart should be made, Clearly identifying the
production or manufacturing steps for each type of garment made.
 There should be a written quality specification for each job in the, manufacturing
process.
 No operation should ever go longer than 3 hours without being inspected.
 An independent audit team audits pieces after end line inspection at 1.5 AQL
 Products should move to finishing only after their certification.
 Feedback from audit on daily basis for further improvement.

20 | P a g e
STITCHES PER INCH

The table below indicated the stitches required per inch (2.5) in various in various fabric
types:

FABRIC SEAMS TOP STITCH

Light to medium weight 10-12 9-10

woven fabrics
Light to medium weight 12-14 14-16
stretch fabrics
Men’s business shirts 12-14 14-16

Lingerie 16-20 14-16

Denim and canvas 10-12 8-9

PU, PVS, leather 8-9 7-8

SEAM PUCKERING CAUSES

Seam puckering can be caused through:

 Loose thread tensions
 Stitches per inch (2.5cm)
 Presser foot tension
 Incorrect thread gauge
 Incorrect needle size
Ensuring that correct machine settings engineered into the manufacturing of the garment prior to
commencement of production.

FINISHING

 Two hours inspection, visual and fit audit on the basis of buyers desired AQL.
 Monitor the job off all finishing inspectors and report to manager QA factory.
 Keep close coordination with sewing, rectifying defects in finishing and make defect
analysis in finishing to take corrective and preventive action in sewing.
 Conduct training off finishing QA inspector for continuous improvements

21 | P a g e
8.2 PRODUCT SAFETY AND ACCESSORIES RECQUIREMENT

Ensuring for the customer’s safety is not compromised in any way by the finished state of the
apparel product.

ITEMS SAFETY RECQUIREMENT

Accessories Removable accessories which do not meet the requirement of
compliance guidelines of the exporting country will not be permitted on
garments intended for children under 3 years old
ZIPS All zips except invisible type – the teeth of zips are not to be sewn
over as this can cause the teeth to part thus breaking the zip.
The stopper at the base must be above the stopper at the top and below
the stopper at the base
Invisible zips – the teeth at the base are to be heat- seal point should be
below the end of the garment seam.

BUTTON All infants buttons must be 4 hole buttons – no exception

ATTATCHMENT 3-7 girls and boys must be 4 hole buttons – any exception must be
have written authorization by the quality manager.
All buttons must be lock stitch attached.
The stitching must be securely latched off with no run-back thread.
DRAWCORDS/TIES All waist draw cords/ties must be attached at waist center back.
Hood draw cords must be attached at the center top.
No function draw cords/ties must be used for children’s garment below
age seven ,only decorative cords, where requested.

9.0 LABELLING AND PACKAGING

This covers the guidelines for the various types of labels that are required by the buyers

The section consist of

o Guidelines for label approvals and testing.

o Guidelines for packaging approvals and testing.

o Legal compliance guidelines.

22 | P a g e
 o Requirements for label attachments.

o Shipment packing requirements.

o Care instruction.

o Labeling requirements.

9.1 COMPLIANCE GUIDELINES

It is the QC’s responsibility to ensure that the entire apparel product compiles with the most
recent versions of the following standards and regulations:

Standard Type Standard

Care labeling guide of compliance requirements from

National Institute of Standards and Technology
(NIST)
The Textile Products (Labelling and Fibre
Composition) Regulations 2011 (SI 2012
No.1102)
Consumer Information Standards (care
labeling) Regulations.

Sun protective labeling Product Safety Standards Regulations

Fibre content labeling Consumer Information Standards (care

labeling) Regulations.
guide of compliance requirements from
National Institute of Standards and Technology
(NIST)

The Textile Products (Labelling and Fibre

Composition) Regulations 2011 (SI 2012
No.1102)

Country of origin labeling Consumer Information Standards (care

labeling) Regulations.

Children’s night and day wear Product Safety Standards Regulations

Other standards Suppliers of apparel to the Warehouse must

23 | P a g e
 ensure that product meets the requirement of
the following

Fair Trading Act

Consumer Guarantee Act

Trade Practice Act

Australian standards: Consumer Information Standards (care labeling)

Regulations.
USA standards: National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST) guide of
compliance requirement.
European Standards: The Textile Products (Labelling and Fibre Composition)
Regulations 2011 (SI 2012 No.1102)

Other standards will be followed according to buyer’s requirement and the requirement
of the Exporting Country Regulations.

9.2 LABEL APPROVALS AND TESTING

Brand, Origin, Care and Fibre content Sew-in Labels

Approvals:

Sew in labels must be submitted to the warehouse QA for approval prior to production.

If multiple garment styles use a common label then only one sample label is required for
approval.

On repeat orders the correct sew in labels should be submitted attached to the pre production
sample garment for approval.

Printed labels must remain legible for the life of the garment after continuous washing and
wearing.

Labels must have soft, smooth edges and must not fray.

All labels must meet label durability standards.

For all outerwear bottoms-especially those with heavy fabrics, or any wash treatments- the
content/care/country of origin labels must be oven or as per buyer’s requirements.

24 | P a g e
FIRE DANGER SEW-IN LABELS

Approvals

Fire danger labels for children’s night wear, and styles requiring these labels must be submitted
to the warehouse QA for approval. The labels must be accompanied by the lab test report
verifying that they have been tested for durability and comply with compliance guidelines of
exporting country. The lab test report must be an original copy.

Testing

Fire danger labels for children’s nightwear, and styles requiring these labels, must be tested for
durability and secure attachment to the garment. Samples of the labels must then be submitted
to the warehouse QA accompanied by the lab test report verifying that they have been tested
and comply with compliance guidelines of exporting country. The lab test report must be an
original cop y.

9.3 PACKAGING APPROVALS AND TESTING

HANG-SELL PACKAGING

Materials

CPP(cast polypropylene) is the preferred material for polybags although OPP(oriented

polypropylene) is also acceptable.

Approvals

Hang sell packaging must be submitted to the warehouse QA for approval prior for production.
Printed details on the packaging must be carefully checked pririor to submission to ensure that
the details are as requested by the packaging artwork. If the details are incorrect the items
should not be submitted until the corrections are made.

Testing

Polybags must have securely welded sides and plastic hanger hooks so that the package
performs satisfactory in-store until the product has been store.

SWING TiCKETS

Approvals

25 | P a g e
Swing tickets should be submitted to the buyer for checking barcode prior to production.

STICKERS

Approvals

Stickers should be submitted to the buyer for checking artwork prior to production.

Item Compliance Requirement

Sew in labels Each piece of a set must have brand, care,

fibre content and origin on its label.

Country of origin Country of origin should either be on the

upper side of the brand label, or must be
separate sew in label sewn directly alongside
brand label.

The lettering should be minimum of 2mm

height.

Care instructions The correct care instructions is selected by

selecting the garment type followed by the
fibre type. Where there are multiple content
in one fabric, or within a garment, then the
care instruction for the most sensitive fibre
should be selected.

The lettering should be minimum of 2mm

height.

Fibre content Fibre content labeling must comply with fibre

content standards and regulations of
USA standards: National Institute of
Standards and Technology (NIST) guide of
compliance requirement.
European Standards: The Textile
Products (Labelling and Fibre Composition)
Regulations 2011 (SI 2012 No.1102)

Consumer Information Standards(care

labeling) Regulations.

26 | P a g e
HANG SELL PACKAGING Country of origin

Fibre content

Care instructions

These details must be exactly the same as the

sew in label details on the garment.

If children wear that requires fire danger

labeling, the packaging must also have the
relevant fire danger label

A size chart that relates to the range of sizes

of the garments to be sold in the bag.

All branded hanger packs must have

suffocating warning on the reverse.

Price and barcodes There must be only one price stated on the
labeling. Suppliers must not place a
price/barcode sticker over the top of another
barcode.

Price and barcodes to include TWL season

code and item code.

The warehouse requires all labels, barcodes and swingtags to be sourced from their nominated
label supplier.

9.4 LABEL ATTACHMENT

Sew in labels

 All labels must be securely sewn so they remain permanently attached to the garment.

 Labels must be attached so that none of the wording is concealed in the seams.

 Each piece of a set must have labels stating brand, care, fibre content and origin.

 Reversible garment must have the care, content, and origin labels sewn in a pocket. If
the garment does not have a pocket then the care, content, and origin details must be on
a swingticket attached to the garment.

27 | P a g e
Additional attachment information

More detaile d illustrations of placement of labels will be provide according to the buyer’s
requirement, check with the QA team before submitting the sample.

9.5 SHIPMENT PACKING

This relates to the packing of the bulk ready for shipment.

Item Requirement

Inner bags Garments are to be packed in one inner poly

wrapper per carton. The poly wrapper must
be sealed.

Garments must not be packed individual poly

bags unless the bags are branded hang sell
packing, or as required by order details

Presentation of garments Garments must be pressed and folded to

avoid creasing. Garments must be dry before
being packed.

If garments are steam pressed, the bulk must

be allowed to dry out for at least 3 hours
before packing.

No pins clips or cards inserts are to be used

unless specifically requested.

Business shirts may have card collar support

and card insert but not use pin are dips.

Tissue separating garments Garments that have placement prints must

have one sheet of tissue preventing the print
from sticking to the next garment.

The swing ticket should be placed so that it

doesn’t stick to the other garment.

PVC or PU garments will require tissues

between each garment.

Where tissues are used it should be ensured

that the garments are fully dried before

28 | P a g e
 packing, the tissues must be colourfast.

In all other case tissues is not to be used

unless specifically requested.

Cartons Carton markings must be as specified in the

terms of trade document.

No metal stapping are to be used on the

cartons.

Stickers All stickers must have a low tack fabric

friendly adhesive, so that they do not leave a
residue on the garment when they are
removed.

SPECIAL REQUIREMENT FOR SPAIN:

For products manufactured in Spain: voluntary to mention the industrial register number of the
national manufacturer. For products manufactured outside the EU: Mandatory to mention the
tax ID of the importer. Hazardous products Certain consumer chemical products require
danger, warning and caution labels for products that are corrosive, explosive, flammable or
poisonous.

The requirements regarding the labeling of textile in Europe are covered by the Regulation
(EU) No 1007/2011 (the “Regulation”) which replaced the EU Directive 2008/121/EC from 08-
05- 2011

This manual contains regulations for frequently exporting coutries, if there are any other
specifications it can be done as buyer’s requirement.

For further information, the websites can be consulted

The full list and images of the symbols and its description can be found at the following
website: www.iso.org

http://www.sartex.ch/ginetex-switzerland/ or www.care-labelling.co.uk

29 | P a g e
10.0 FINAL INSPECTION TO AQL STANDARD

All orders will be inspected to AQL.

This section outlines the AQL standard, and our expectations for supplier’s own inspection
processes.

Categorizing defects:

Defects are categorized as either Critical, Major, or Minor. A single critical defect will fail the
order. The number of acceptable Major and Minor Defects varies by sample size.

Critical Defect: A defect that is likely to result in a hazardous or unsafe condition for an
individual using the product or that contravenes mandatory regulations.

Major defects: A defect that is likely to result in failure in reducing the usability of the product
and obvious appearance defects affecting the salability of the product.

Minor defect: A defect that does not reduce the usability of the product but us nevertheless a
workmanship defect beyond the defined quality standard.

How should an AQL inspection be carried out?

Before inspecting:

An inspection should only commence when all the following conditions are met:
1. An approval sample garment with all relevant attachments is available.
2. A sample/ approval report is available.
3. Order details are available.
4. Fabric and accessories test reports have been submitted and approved.
5. Print test report available.
6. 100% of the stock is completed and available.
It should be noted that all inspections should be done in a clean and well-lit area.

How many inspectors are needed?

 The number of inspectors need depends on total production, the lot size, the
complexity of the item made and present outgoing quality level.
 The inspection time per unit varies depending on the number of operations in the item.

Assuring random sampling:

Statistical auditing involves selecting a few units from the whole lot, doing a very thorough

30 | P a g e
inspections of those few and making a projection based on the results.
How to inspect?

The table below describes the basic procedure for carrying out the inspection.
STAGE DETAILS
1. Review of Technical File and The inspector must make sure he has the
Order Details following items available:
 Purchase order
 Packing list
 Product specifications (size specs,
sketches etc.)
 Defect classification
 Special instructions
 An inspection form to record the
outcome
 Sample cards to accompany the final
selected samples
2. Inspection of Standard and  Follow the AQL table
Sampling  Critical defects- not allowed
 Major and Minor defects
3. Carton selection  Obtain and review packing lists
 Estimate number of cartons/quantity
presented for inspection
 Select cartons randomly for complete
style, colour and size range
4. Packing and Markings Check following against
specification/order:
 Packing material
 Packing method
 Packing size
 Inner and outer packing
 Labelling and hang tags
 Shipping marks
 Packing condition
 Packing dimensions
5. Quantity/ Assortment check Check the following:
 Number of pieces per export
carton
 Check style, size and colour of
assortment as per packing list
and carton marking
o Style
o Size assortment- solid or
assorted size ratio
o Colour assortment- solid

31 | P a g e
 or assortment size ratio

 Check style, size and colour as per

hangtag and polybag printing.
6. Style Comparison Compare style against specification and
reference sample for the following
points:
 Style
 Construction
 Sewing method
 Stitches per inch
 Accessories
 Printing
 Embroideries
 Others
7. Material (Touch & Feel) Compare material against reference
sample/swatches by hand feel and
touch.
Comment on the material as follows:
 Like reference sample
 Slightly stiffer, stiffer
 Slightly softer, softer
 others
8.Colour and Comparison Compare colour against the reference sample
/swatches by visual comparison on the
following:
 Colour of shell fabric
 Colour of lining fabric
 Colour of printing
 Others
Comments on colour shade batches as
following:
 Similar
 Slightly lighter,lighter,noticeably lighter
 Slightly darker,darker,noticeably
brighter
 Slightly duller,duller,noticeably duller
 In different tone
 Others

Try to obtain samples of fabric swatches from

different colour shade batches especially for
colour difference in big contrast.

32 | P a g e
9.Size Measurement Check size measurement against specification.
If measurement is based on the factory’s
specification, please attach the size
specification for reference. You must measure a
minimum of 3 pieces per size.
10.Weight Check weight of knitted garment, quilted
garment, bags, towel etc. Compare weight of
actual finding to specification and reference
sample.
Check workmanship according to the correct
sampling plan. Indicate all the defects in the
garment with the red arrow defect stickers.
Report one most serious defect per unit and
classify as major or minor defects.

Defect classification according to the following

:
11.Visual Quality  General cleanliness and appearance
Inspection(Workmanship)  Material faults (state which type of
material faults)
 Sewing defects
 Defects on accessories
 Other defects

For fabrication inspection, classify the defects

to the point system.

Additional description other than the defects

already reported in the AQL can be reported in
percentage, based on the total sample size.

33 | P a g e
11.0 COMPLIANCE WITH LAWS

The facility shall operate in full compliance with all applicable laws, rules, and regulations
including those relating to labour, worker health and safety, and the environment.

11.1 EMPLOYMENT CONTRACTS:

The facility shall keep all applicable records and documentation referenced in this standard on-
site and available to company representatives for at least 12 months from termination date of an
employee.

11.2 LABOUR

CHILD LABOR:

At the facility, all workers shall be at least 18 years of age. No workers under the age for
mandatory schooling shall be employed by the facility.Facility management shall have a rigorous
age verification procedure that includes maintaining copies of official government-authenticated
documentation for every worker and confirmation of the worker’s date of birth.

OVERTIME AND INCENTIVE RATES:

The facility shall pay overtime and any incentive (or piece) rates that meet all legal requirements
or the local industry prevailing standard, whichever is greater. Hourly wage rates for overtime
must be higher than the rates for the regular work shift.

UNPAID OVERTIME ADJUSTMENTS:

The facility shall ensure that overtime hours not be adjusted against leaves/holidays/absent days
unless permitted by local law.

ON-TIME AND DIRECT PAYMENT TO WORKERS:

The facility shall ensure that workers are paid directly and at least once per month within no
more than 31 days after the end of the previous month or within the legally mandated period,
whichever is earlier.

NORMAL WORK SCHEDULE:

34 | P a g e
 The facility shall comply with all applicable laws, regulations, and industry standards on
working hours. The maximum allowable working hours in any week shall be the lesser of a)
what is permitted by national law or b) a total of 60 hours of work in any consecutive 7-day
period.

OVERTIME HOURS:

The facility shall ensure that overtime hours not exceed legal limits or 12 hours in a week,
whichever is lesser.

11.3 OCCUPATIONAL HEALTH AND SAFETY

GENERAL SAFETY:

The facility shall comply with all applicable laws regarding risk protection.

VENTILATION:

The facility shall ensure that adequate and effective ventilation exists for the comfort of workers
and that there is proper circulation of air, especially in areas of frequent or heavy use of
chemicals and paints, or in areas with significant dust and material particles.

LIGHTING:

The facility shall ensure appropriate and sufficient lighting is installed so workers are aware of
their surroundings, are able to perform their work safely, and are able to see any potential
barriers or obstacles on their way to the nearest exits.

PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT:

The facility shall ensure that appropriate personal protective equipment such as masks, gloves,
goggles, ear plugs and rubber boots are made available at no cost to all workers and instructions
for use are shared with the workers.

11.4 MACHINE/EQUIPMENT SAFETY:

The facility shall comply with all laws regarding machine and equipment safety and take all
steps to ensure safety.

35 | P a g e
FIRST AID AND MEDICAL FACILITY:

The facility shall ensure adequate arrangement for first aid and medical care

FIRE SAFETY CERTIFICATES:

The facility shall comply with all applicable laws regarding fire safety.

EXITS/EXIT ROUTES/EMERGENCY ROUTES:

The facility shall ensure there are sufficient, marked exits and clear routes from all areas of the
facility to support safe and smooth evacuation from the facility.

EMERGENCY LIGHTING:

The facility shall ensure that sufficient, powered back-up emergency lights are provided
throughout the facility.

FIREFIGHTING EQUIPMENT:

The facility shall provide appropriate firefighting equipment in sufficient number throughout the
facility. These shall be maintained in functional condition at all times.

FIRE DETECTION AND ALARM SYSTEMS:

The facility shall have a functional and well-maintained alarm system for early emergency
warning.

EMERGENCY PROCEDURES AND EVACUATION DRILLS:

The facility shall have an emergency response system and team with defined responsibilities.
The facility shall ensure that emergency evacuation drills are conducted and recorded.

BUILDING SAFETY:

The facility shall comply with all applicable laws regarding structural safety. The facility shall
take all necessary steps to ensure that the facility is structurally safe and well-maintained.

36 | P a g e
37 | P a g e
38 | P a g e
39 | P a g e
40 | P a g e