FREE Bear Lovey Pattern 2018

Tatie Soft
Toys
Amigurumi Pattern
FREE Bear
Lovey Pattern
You can sell the finished toy crocheted by

you, if you could mention me as the
designer that would be greatly appreciated.
Please do not resell the pattern.
Skill Level: Easy
Finished Size: Blanket measures when laid flat from wide *V* point to *V* point 23” / 60 cm
Yarns
Paintbox Simply Aran Light Caramel (get 2 balls of yarn, each 100 gr to be on the safe side)
Paintbox Simply Aran Champagne White (one ball of 100 gr yarn is more than enough)
Supplies
3.00mm or 3.50mm hook to crochet the toy Trimming scissors

5.00mm hook to crochet the blanket Stitch marker
Yarn needle Polyester fibrefill stuffing
One pair of 12 mm brown teddy safety eyes
Page One
Copyright © Tatie Soft Toys 2018
About the crochet terms
I use US crochet terms in my patterns. However, as you may know US crochet terms are different than UK crochet
terms. Here is a chart for you to see them both.
US Crochet Term UK Crochet Term
Chain (ch) Chain (ch)

Single Crochet (sc) Double Crochet (dc)
Double Crochet (dc) Treble Crochet (tr)
Half Double Crochet (hdc) Half Treble Crochet (htr)
Triple Crochet (trc) Double Treble Crochet (dtr)
Abbreviations Used
sl st = slip stitch ch = chain inc = increase

st = stitch sc = single crochet inv dec = invisible decrease
sts = stitches rep = repeat
dc = double crochet
Good to know (useful tips about crocheting amigurumi)
1: Magic ring is the best way to start crocheting your amigurumi which leaves no hole in the middle & gives you a very neat finish
that you will love and appreciate.
2: Always leave the yarn tails a bit longer to sew the parts together.
3: Any size hook with a correspondingly sized yarn can be used to crochet amigurumi. Though the most common combination is
aran / worsted yarn and 3.50mm hook.
You may now say that the label on your yarn suggests that you should you use 5.00mm hook with your aran yarn. In order to
crochet a nice and neat amigurumi you need to use at least one size smaller hook than your yarn suggests. With a smaller hook
you can crochet your amigurumi tightly, so the stuffing won’t show through. If you are crocheting way too tight I suggest that
you may use either 4.00mm or 4.25mm hook with your aran yarn instead of 5.00mm hook.
4: Although some amigurumi patterns are worked with single crochet & in joined rounds which you do not need to use a stitch
marker, most amigurumi patterns are worked with single crochet & in continuous / spiral rounds which you need to use a stitch
marker to mark the beginning of each round.
5: A small pair sharp pointed scissors is the best scissors to have when crocheting amigurumi to cut / snip the yarns and trim
the ends.
Page Two
6: You’ll need a blunt-tipped yarn needle to weave in yarn ends & stitch the parts / pieces together.
7: Pins always come in handy keeping the parts / pieces in place while you are sewing them together.
8: Acrylic is the most popular yarn to make amigurumi. Having said that if you choose the cheapest acrylic yarns they can be
very scratchy & rough to work with and the toy will not be very pleasant to touch. I prefer soft premium acrylic yarns which
are pleasure to crochet with & the finished toy turns out nice, smooth & soft. The premium acrylic yarns are inexpensive, plus
machine washable & they don’t stretch. On top of everything acrylic yarns are available in a wide variety of colours.
However, you may choose to work with wool, but I must say that wool yarns can be scratchy to work with, they may be
stretched and also expensive. Another thing with wool is that some people are allergic to it.
As for cotton, I must admit that you do get very clearly defined stitches with cotton, but be careful when you’re choosing your
cotton yarn. Lightly twisted cotton yarns with 100% combed cotton fibres are perfect to crochet pleasant to touch amigurumi
toys with, whereas the tightly twisted cotton yarns are very good to crochet durable baskets with.
9: I prefer to use super soft polyester fibrefill for my amigurumi projects, as it’s lightweight, bouncy, washable, long lasting
and it does give your amigurumi a nice & smooth finish with no lumps at all.
10: If I am not crocheting or embroidering the eyes I do prefer to use safety eyes as they lock into place with a backing
washer.
11: Invisible decrease is the best way to crochet your decreases as it leaves a less visible bump in the crocheted fabric. You
will be doing a lot of increasing & decreasing when crocheting amigurumi. I’ve done my best to explain them both below as
simple as possible.
Invisible decrease: Insert the hook into the **front loop** of the first stitch (2 loops on hook). **Do NOT yarn over**
Insert the hook into the **front loop** of the next stitch. In order to do this, you’ll need to swing the hook down first so you
can insert the hook under the front loop. (3 loops on hook)
Yarn over & draw through the first two loops on the hook. (2 loops on hook)
Yarn over & draw through both loops on the hook. You’ve done your invisible decrease.
Increase: Two single crochet into one stitch.
12: To conclude good to know section I would like to tell you how to read my patterns with a simple example.
3 sc, *2 sc, inc* rep 6 times, 3 sc
Single crochet in each of next 3 stitches, *single crochet in each of next 2 stitches, increase* repeat 6 times, single crochet
in each of next 3 stitches.
Only repeat what is written between the two stars. In this case it’s *2 sc, inc *
Page Three
Pattern
**Important Please Read Before Start Crocheting**

Although 3.50mm hook is the most common size to be used while crocheting amigurumi with an aran / worsted weight yarn, having tried them both
3.00mm & 3.50mm I’ve decided to use 3.00mm hook in my amigurumi projects as it creates tighter stitches, hence smaller holes when the piece is
filled with stuffing.
I suggest that you try them both 3.00mm, 3.50mm to find out which size you are most comfortable crocheting your amigurumi with. If you think
3.50mm is too small for you then try 4.00mm or 4.25 mm to see which one is best for you.
Size of the hook & the thickness of the yarn affect the size of the finished toy. You may need to use slightly bigger or smaller safety eyes if you use
different size of hook and different weight of yarn.
Bear
Ear Step One
Colour: Light Caramel, Make Two
1: 6 sc in a magic ring [6 sts]
2: *inc* rep 6 times [12 sts]
3: *sc, inc* rep 6 times [18 sts]
4: Sc around [18 sts]
5: *4 sc, inv dec* rep 3 times [15 sts]
Cut a long enough yarn tail for sewing.
Muzzle Step Two
Colour: Cream
2: *3 sc into the next st, 3 sc into the next st, sc* rep twice [14 sts]
3: 2 sc, inc 3 times, 4 sc, inc 3 times, 2 sc [20 sts]
4: 4 sc, inc 2 times, 8 sc, inc 2 times, 4 sc [24 sts]
5-6: Sc around (2 rounds in total) [24 sts]
Cut a long enough yarn tail for sewing.
Page Four
Arm Step Three How to flatten & crochet over open end
Here is a little tutorial to show you how I crochet
Colour: Light Caramel, Make Two over open end.
Put some filling inside the piece. Fill the arm lightly as you crochet the other
rounds.
8: inv dec, 13 sc [14 sts]
9: 6 sc, inv dec, 6 sc [13 sts]

Push the open end together.
21: 5 sc, inv dec, 5 sc [11 sts]
No more filling is needed after this round.
25: Push the open end to flatten, crochet over both sides [5 sts]
Cut a small 20 cm long yarn tail to fasten off later.
Insert hook under sc sts on both sides.
All done, you’ve finished the arm nice and neat.
Copyright © Tatie Soft Toys 2018 Page Five

Head Step Four
Colour: Light Caramel
As a stitch marker we are using a 25 cm / 10” long yarn

piece in cream or any other colour you wish apart from light
caramel.
So, just for now put your plastic stitch marker aside and use
the yarn piece as your stitch marker which is going to be out
guide while inserting the eyes.
4: *2 sc, inc* rep 6 times [24 sts]
6: *4 sc, inc* rep 6 times [36 sts] Blue arrow is pointing the 1st hole in between the 16th & 17th rounds.
I’ve also pointed the hole out with the sage coloured pin. Count 9
holes clockwise / from left to right and insert the first eye into the
8: *5 sc, inc* rep 6 times [42 sts] 10th hole.
Find the holes in between 16th & 17th rounds; start counting
from the top / beginning.
And then find the 1st hole in between 16th & 17th rounds which is
the one where your st marker yarn is in, then count 9 holes
from left to right / clockwise and the insert your 1st eye into
the 10th hole. Leave 9 holes and then insert your 2 nd eye into
the 10th hole.
Start filling the head with fibrefill.
22: *3 sc, inv dec* rep 6 times [24 sts] Count 9 holes again and the insert the 2nd eye into the 10th hole.
Add a bit more stuffing inside the head.
Do not fasten off. Page Six

Do not cut the yarn; we will carry on crocheting again little later, but you can un pick the yarn stitch marker now and get your plastic stitch marker.
Place the muzzle in between the round 15 and 23.
Put a little bit of stuffing into the muzzle and first pin it on the face and then sew the half of the muzzle on the face and then add little bit more
stuffing inside the muzzle and carry on sewing it. Once you’ve finished sewing the muzzle on the face bring the yarn out of the open end of the head.
Muzzle is sewn onto the face as you can see in the photo left above.
Thread a 30 cm long cotton embroidery thread through a yarn needle. Insert the needle from the bottom of the head, leaving a short yarn tail.
Make a long vertical stitch and bring the needle out where you want the nose to start as you see in the photo right above.
Make horizontal stitches to form the nose. Keep stitching until you are happy with the nose. Then, bring the needle out from the bottom of head
again. This is how you embroider the nose of a bear; you can make both horizontal & vertical stitches as wide / narrow or short / long as you wish.
I’ve narrowed my horizontal stitches by one hole. I brought my needle out from the hole which is just before the hole needle is coming
out in the photo left above. Scroll down to see the small nose. I’ve done this after the ears were sewn. That’s why I haven’t changed the
nose embroidery tutorial photos. The way of embroidering the nose is still the same 
Copyright © Tatie Soft Toys 2018 Page Seven

Place the ears between the 4th and the 11th rounds and sew them
to the head.
Bring the yarn tails out from the bottom of the head.
Fasten all yarn tails securely with a couple of knots under the
head.
Add a bit more stuffing inside the head.
We can now carry on crocheting as you see the loop we didn’t

fasten the head off.
Page Eight
Carrying on crocheting the head:
24: **At this point we crochet with the arms in order to attach the arms to the head**
For the first 5 sc sts, grab one of the arms and crochet with the arm, then 4 sc as normal, and then grab the other arm and crochet 5 sc with the
arm, then 4 sc as normal. [18 sts]
Attaching the arm as you crochet the round 24
Short yarn tail is coming from the arm and we’ll fasten the arms
of in a minute.
1st arm is attached to the head
This is how your arms should look like once they both have been crocheted as you crochet the round 24
Copyright © Tatie Soft Toys 2018 Page Nine

25: Sc around BACK LOOPS ONLY [18 sts] Front loops will be used to sew the head and blanket together.
Add a bit more stuffing into the head.
26: invisible decrease 9 times [9 sts]
Close the hole and cut a long enough yarn tail for sewing head to the blanket.
At this point you should also fasten the arms and lose the yarn tails inside the each arm.
I’ve fastened off the yarn tails of the arms and closed the hole in the middle. Put a pin on each arm to keep them
up.
Blanket Step Five
Colour: Light Caramel, Cream

With Light Caramel colour
Round 1: Magic ring.
Ch 3 (counts as the first dc st throughout the pattern), 19 dc into the ring

[20 dc sts]
Join with sl st into the top of chain 3 from beginning (this is the way how
you should join the rounds throughout the pattern)
Round 2: ch 1, sc into same st, skip one st, 3 dc into next st, ch 3, 3 dc
into next st, ch 3, 3 dc into same space
*Skip one st, sc into next st, skip one st, 3 dc into next st, ch 3, 3 dc into
the same space* rep from *to* until you reach sc at the beginning, join
with sl st into the sc
Round 1st & 2nd are completed
Page Ten
Round 3: Sl st into the next 2 dc st, ch 3, dc into next st, 3 dc into chain space, 3 ch, 3 dc into same chain space, dc into next 2 sts, skip next dc, sc
and dc sts (skipping 3 sts)
*dc into next 2 sts, 3 dc into chain space, ch 3, 3 dc into same ch space, dc into next 2 sts, skip next dc, sc and dc sts*
Rep from *to* until you reach ch 3, join with slip st into the top of the ch 3
Round 3 is completed
Round 4: Sl st into the next dc st, ch 3, dc into next 3 sts, 3 dc into the chain space, ch 3, 3 dc into the same chain space, dc into 4 sts, skip next 2 dc
sts
*dc into next 4 sts, 3 dc into the chain space, ch 3, 3 dc into the same ch space, dc into next 4 sts, skip next 2 dc sts*
Rep from *to* until you reach ch 3, join with sl st into the top of the ch 3
Round 4 is completed
Copyright © Tatie Soft Toys 2018 Page Eleven

sts
sts
Round 7: Sl st into the next dc st, ch 3, dc into next 9 sts, 3 dc into the chain space, ch 3, 3 dc into the same chain space, dc into 10 sts, skip next 2
dc sts
dc sts
dc sts
dc sts
dc sts
dc sts
Copyright © Tatie Soft Toys 2018 Page Twelve

dc sts
Change colour to cream
Round 14: Sl st into the next dc st, ch 3, dc into next 23 sts, 3 dc into the chain space, ch 3, 3 dc into the same chain space, dc into 24 sts, skip next
2 dc sts
Round 15: Sl st into the next dc st, ch 3, dc into next 25 sts, 3 dc into the chain space, ch 3, 3 dc into the same chain space, dc into 26 sts, skip next
2 dc sts
Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. Sew the toy to the blanket by using the unused front loops.
Blanket is done and it’s now time to sew the bear onto the blanket 
Copyright © Tatie Soft Toys 2018 Page Thirteen

Sew the bear onto the blanket by using the unused front loops.
Copyright © Tatie Soft Toys 2018 Page Fourteen

Congratulations  you have done your lovey  I hope you’ve enjoyed crocheting your bear lovey blanket 
Let’s keep in touch
Tatie Soft Toys On Ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/people/TatieSoftToys
Tatie Soft Toy on Etys: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/TatieSoftToys
Tatie Soft Toys on LoveCrocet: https://www.lovecrochet.com/user/TatieSoftToys
Copyright © Tatie Soft Toys 2018 Page Fifteen

FREE Bear Lovey Pattern 2018

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Tatie Soft

You can sell the finished toy crocheted by

Skill Level: Easy

3.00mm or 3.50mm hook to crochet the toy Trimming scissors

US Crochet Term UK Crochet Term

Chain (ch) Chain (ch)

sl st = slip stitch ch = chain inc = increase

Good to know (useful tips about crocheting amigurumi)

Increase: Two single crochet into one stitch.

3 sc, *2 sc, inc* rep 6 times, 3 sc

**Important Please Read Before Start Crocheting**

Colour: Light Caramel, Make Two

1: 6 sc in a magic ring [6 sts]

2: *inc* rep 6 times [12 sts]

3: *sc, inc* rep 6 times [18 sts]

4: Sc around [18 sts]

5: *4 sc, inv dec* rep 3 times [15 sts]

6: Sc around [15 sts]

Cut a long enough yarn tail for sewing.

Muzzle Step Two

3: 2 sc, inc 3 times, 4 sc, inc 3 times, 2 sc [20 sts]

4: 4 sc, inc 2 times, 8 sc, inc 2 times, 4 sc [24 sts]

5-6: Sc around (2 rounds in total) [24 sts]

Cut a long enough yarn tail for sewing.

1: 5 sc in a magic ring [5 sts]

2: *inc* rep 5 times [10 sts]

3: *sc, inc* rep 5 times [15 sts]

4-7: Sc around (4 rounds in total) [15 sts]

8: inv dec, 13 sc [14 sts]

9: 6 sc, inv dec, 6 sc [13 sts]

10: inv dec, 11 sc [12 sts]

21: 5 sc, inv dec, 5 sc [11 sts]

22: Sc around [11 sts]

No more filling is needed after this round.

23: inv dec, 9 sc [10 sts]

24: Sc around [10 sts]

Cut a small 20 cm long yarn tail to fasten off later.

Insert hook under sc sts on both sides.

All done, you’ve finished the arm nice and neat.

Copyright © Tatie Soft Toys 2018 Page Five

Colour: Light Caramel

As a stitch marker we are using a 25 cm / 10” long yarn

1: 6 sc in a magic ring [6 sts]

2: *inc* rep 6 times [12 sts]

3: *sc, inc* rep 6 times [18 sts]

4: *2 sc, inc* rep 6 times [24 sts]

5: *3 sc, inc* rep 6 times [30 sts]

9: Sc around [42 sts]

10: *6 sc, inc* rep 6 times [48 sts]

11-18: Sc around (8 rounds in total) [48 sts]

19: *6 sc, inv dec* rep 6 times [42 sts]

20: *5 sc, inv dec* rep 6 times [36 sts]

21: *4 sc, inv dec* rep 6 times [30 sts]

Start filling the head with fibrefill.

Add a bit more stuffing inside the head.

23: *2 sc, inv dec* rep 6 times [18 sts]

Do not fasten off. Page Six

Place the muzzle in between the round 15 and 23.

Copyright © Tatie Soft Toys 2018 Page Seven

Add a bit more stuffing inside the head.

We can now carry on crocheting as you see the loop we didn’t

Attaching the arm as you crochet the round 24

1st arm is attached to the head

Copyright © Tatie Soft Toys 2018 Page Nine

3 sc, 2 sc, inc rep 6 times, 3 sc

Important Please Read Before Start Crocheting

2: inc rep 6 times [12 sts]

3: sc, inc rep 6 times [18 sts]

5: 4 sc, inv dec rep 3 times [15 sts]

2: inc rep 5 times [10 sts]

3: sc, inc rep 5 times [15 sts]

2: inc rep 6 times [12 sts]

3: sc, inc rep 6 times [18 sts]

4: 2 sc, inc rep 6 times [24 sts]

5: 3 sc, inc rep 6 times [30 sts]

10: 6 sc, inc rep 6 times [48 sts]

19: 6 sc, inv dec rep 6 times [42 sts]

20: 5 sc, inv dec rep 6 times [36 sts]

21: 4 sc, inv dec rep 6 times [30 sts]

23: 2 sc, inv dec rep 6 times [18 sts]