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Introduction
In the late 1960s, at the time I first became a Textile Chemist; young people
were talking, and even singing, about the ‘Dawning of the Age of Aquarius’.
I don’t suppose any of them realised exactly what kind of difficulties would
arise for ‘Aquarius the Water Carrier’ during this dawning. Depending on
which calculation you use the Age of Aquarius may have already started,
may be starting in 2062 or maybe in about 600 years. This may seem
somewhat imprecise but then, sadly, so is the technology being used in some
There is a huge amount of water in our world. Satellite pictures show us just
how much of the world’s surface is covered by it. The area covered by the
Australia
and Oceania 8.9 1.7
TABLE I
In total 71% of the earth’s surface is covered by ocean. Sadly this vast
amount of water (96.5% by volume of the total water in the world) is not
terms, neither cost effective nor, if it uses our increasingly scarce resources
II 2). Only 2.53% of the earth’s water is fresh water and most of that is
fact much of the other fresh water is also unavailable or unsuitable for
drinking (or dyeing). Overall, it is likely that less than 0.5% of the world’s
Global Warming
clean fresh water are inextricably linked. Melting of the ice caps and
glaciation are converting fresh water into salt water when the melted water
drains to the sea and changing weather patterns make it impossible to predict
where rain is going to fall and therefore adds to the difficulty of collecting
this water and managing it for drinking or industrial use. The world is
undeniably getting warmer. Even the President of the USA now accepts this.
that human activity is producing large amounts of, what have come to be
making the problem worse and personally, since I should like my children
and grandchildren to have a future, I think we should try to stop doing so.
What can we do about global warming and the impending water crises?
Carbon Trading3. This is a scheme which will allow rich western nations to
continue polluting the upper reaches of the atmosphere in return for paying
speeding the return of these poor countries to the Stone Age, from which
I was in Egypt and reading about the problems created by the Suez Canal – a
great benefit to world trade from its opening in 1869 and today a major
extinction of several species which are being replaced by species from, the
more saline, Red Sea. Initially this was insignificant, because fresh water
introduced into the Mediterranean by the River Nile diluted the effect, but
after the Aswan dam was opened in the 1960s this effect (known as the
matter of great concern4. We might also think about the concerns regarding
the Yangtse River dam or plans to divert major water courses to irrigate
Chinese with the Three Gorges dam on the Yangtse are threatening their own
country. The contrary demands for water from different African and Asian
nations will almost certainly result in wars before the end of the 21st century
myself, in a very innocent and small scale way, during the 1980s devised
after-chrome dyeing processes for wool, which reduced the chromium in
not realise at the time that this only delayed the release of the chromium into
the environment until the end of the ‘life’ of the textile product. With these
Well, there is a need for globally agreed and orchestrated action. Sadly, we
are not helped by major economies and polluters denying the clear evidence
of the need to change. This is especially so if such a change will damage the
prospects for governments at their next elections or, even more disturbingly,
campaigns. Further than this, and fortunately where we all can contribute,
there is the need to realise that all our problems are associated with the
simple fact that Homo sapiens has just been too successful. There are too
many of us and we use too much of the earth’s available (and, in reasonable
exceeds 6.5 billion – no other large animal approaches this number. Yet,
there are countries which have even promoted population growth in their
country for short term economic benefit. We have a more subtle propaganda
There are several examples of current impending crises for water6,7. Many
of these are well known but I should like to discuss some of them as shown
in Table III.
Examples
Water
of Crises
• Central
America
• TheAralSea
• TheYellowRiver
-China’
sNorther
nPlain
• Major
ci
tiesofEurope
• TheOgallala
Aquifer
• Mexico
City
• Africa
TABLE III
Let us consider the drinking water situation in Central America. The USA,
with its selective financial and trading support of the countries that were
ravaged during the 1980s by civil wars, which incidentally could not have
been sustained without US aid and arms to one side, appears to direct most
of the spending (mainly through repayable loans via the World Bank)
towards development of shopping malls and roads rather than drinking
water. However, commendable this may be – well at least with regard to
roads, I am less enthusiastic about shopping malls – am adequate supply of
drinking water is a primary requirement for any country and its social and
political stability. New projects for drinking water do receive some aid from
the European Union (mainly due to influence from Spain) and the USA but
not nearly enough. Today, 35% of the population of Central America do not
have access to potable water and by 2025 the amount of drinking water
available per head will have decreased by 83% in 75 years. In the meantime
there is massive US investment in garment making which has led to a huge
expansion in dyeing and finishing, which as we shall discuss is a major user
of high quality clean water. The water shortage is most acute on the Pacific
coast which is where most of the population lives. 4 out of 5 illnesses are
related to water contamination or mismanagement. The problem is typified
by Guatemala, Honduras and Costa Rica where 25% of the collected water is
lost to leaks. In 40 years there have been 6 million deaths (5 million of them
children) from water related illnesses in a region with a population of only
40 million. The crazy thing is that Central America is not a dry region – it is
water rich with very high rainfall patterns. El Salvador the country with the
worst water availability has an average of 1800 mm (or over 70 inches) of
rain per year which is more than double the rainfall in Manchester, England,
a place of renown for its rain.
Many know about the Aral Sea but perhaps not the magnitude of human
induced change. In 1960 it was the world’s fourth largest lake – the size of
California. Its volume has decreased by 75% (equivalent to draining Lakes
Erie and Ontario) and its shoreline retreated by 162 km. Why? – because the
Soviet Union diverted the 2 rivers that feed it to irrigate cotton growing in
the desert. Why do we want to grow cotton in the desert??
All three rivers feeding China's Northern Plain are severely polluted,
damaging health and limiting irrigation. The lower reaches of the Yellow
river, which feeds China's most important farming region, ran dry for 226
days in 1997. Northern China is home to two thirds of the country's cropland
but only one fifth of its water. In recent years the water table in Northern
China has fallen by an average of 1.5 metres a year.
Even Europe is not immune. Most of the large cities of Europe have major
water problems due to increasing population and ageing water pipe
infrastructures that leak.
Mexico City was once lush and with many lakes. Today, after 500 years of
draining and deforestation, the city is sinking as more water is pumped out
of the ground. Mexico City is lurching downwards by as much as a foot per
year and has fallen 30 feet in the last century. By comparison, the better
known example of Venice falls by only a fractionof an inch per year. To
make things worse, about 40% of the city’s clean water is lost through leaky
pipes. As with so many other of the world’s largest cities Mexico is running
dry (at least of drinking water – there’s plenty of sewage).
Many people have read about the problems which will be created in Africa
by damming of the major rivers for water and power thereby denying
drinking water to other countries downstream. This is where it is predicted
that the world’s first water wars will take place. But did you know that 20m
people in six countries in west and central Africa rely on Lake Chad for
water? As Al Gore has informed the world8 the lake has shrunk by 95% in
the last 38 years. Lake Chad is very shallow and particularly sensitive to
changes in average temperature and the failure in recent years of the annual
monsoon.
Dyeing of Textiles
textile dyeing.
response to fashion demand for colour. The location of the dyeing industry
treatment facilities but sadly this does not happen. The inevitability of water
crises in the world will bring into sharper focus the need to minimize water
improve things.
The world consumes annually 122.3 million bales of cotton9 (40.9% of this
litres of water to dye and finish 1 kg of knitted cotton. The water we need
for textile processing is very high quality and is at least as clean as ‘drinking
water’. Therefore, we compete for our water demand with the millions who
are dying (without an e) in the drier parts of our world. This we can do
routes completely but this may change the essential quality of the product.
around the demand by the large markets of the USA and Europe for certain
product mix between white and light, medium and dark shades. In one large
Chinese dyehouse producing 150 tonnes of dyed cotton per day this equated
to a saving in drinking water of over 20 million litres per day – just from one
factory (and there are even larger knitting factories than this in China).
consumption from processing all the cotton in the world is rather better, due
to some continuous dyeing and other wet processing routes, and we use 100
litres per kg but could use 25 litres per kg, this equates to a possible saving
of 75 litres for every kilogramme of cotton or over 2 trillion litres per year.
The
Human
Impact
ofOptimising
Wat
erUsage
inDyeing
• AnnualWorldConsumpt ion ofCotton
–
26.7
bill
ion
• Annualwaterconsumpt ion incotton
processi
ng–2.7trillion
litres
• Possible
savi
ng2trillionlitres
• Water
for 37.8mi
llionpeople
TABLE IV
The average domestic consumption in the UK is about 145 litres per head
per day10. This means that by trivial changes to industrial practice in the
developed world standards for 37.8 million people or almost double the
population of Australia.
Much of what I have to say applies either directly or indirectly to all textile
are appallingly badly planned. When I entered the industry it was still
normal to apply only 80% of the intended dye recipe and then bring the
increasing labour costs and low priced competition changed this in Europe
the developing world and to all intents and purposes a typical dyehouse in
China or India (or in any Asian country) works pretty well according to the
time honoured techniques of messing with the shade for as long as possible
one dyehouse with which I have worked, they typically took 1-2 hours to
indecision happens in almost all the dyehouse in Asia in every day of the
understand it. Spinning, knitting, weaving, garment making, etc. all obey
will accept all sorts of twaddle as an excuse and never understand how far
away they are from reaching the true potential situation in respect of
environmental impact at the same time as increasing the financial profit from
level of the dyeing and finishing industry remains a priority. This is an issue
TABLE V
Typical problems for the modern textile dyer are shown in Table V and the
TABLE VI
Environmental Issues to be
Addressed
• Water consumption
• Electrical Power Consumption
• Fuel consumption for Steam
Generation
• Discharged Effluent
• Atmospheric pollution
• Health and Safety of Operators
TABLE VII
The first Jet Dyeing machines were introduced by Gaston County at the
the USA for a number of years and the original patents (developed by
Burlington Industries) date from the mid 1950s. Over the last 40 years,
Originally, the need for high physical action to develop the textile properties
fabrics, especially for casual wear, came the need for machines which had a
more gentle action but with the same advantages of level dyeing and good
low liquor machines rather than the original fully flooded machines11,12.
An important question is why jet dye at all – why not use continuous dyeing
JetDyeing
versus
Continuous
Dyeing
forKnits
• JETDYEING • CONTINUOUS
DYEING
• Profitable
dyeing100kg to 1500kg • Profitabledyeing needs 5000
metres forrealprofit(sayapprox
• Good fabrichand andbulk 1500 kg)–2000 metres tobreak
• Good fabricdrape even
• Lean andflatappearance
• Good fastness inallshades • Poordrape without extra wet
• WaterConsumption 40l/kgaverage finishing
atlongliquor ratio
overall shades • Problems relaxingknitted structures
to givegood shrinkage results
• Leveldyeing requirescarefulcontrol
• Poorfastness in heavy shades
• Shade reproducibility
excellent
with • Wat erconsumption 30litres perkg
goodcontrol andlabpreparation • Level Dyeing generally good (some
skitteriness
andfrosting) andtailing
if dyecombination is poor
• Shade reproducibility
needs on-line
correctionatthestartoftherun
TABLE VIII
Machinery design
that only a small quantity of water is necessary to effect the transfer of dye
fabric through the liquor with sufficient liquor circulation to ensure level
which would treat fabric (especially knitted cotton fabrics) gently and give
recent years there have been two particularly successful technologies. The
first is based on transporting the fabric using both air and water14,15, typified
by the Then Airflow machines and Thies Luft Roto . The other dominant
technology uses the Twin Soft Flow system, developed by Sclavos SA16 .
These technologies have permitted level and well penetrated dyeings with a
minimum liquor ratio. The airflow type machines transport the fabric with a
mixed stream of air and water (aerosol) and the Luft Roto uses separate jets
of dye liquor and air. These systems allow dyeing at much lower liquor
ratios and also permits good even penetration of textile structures. The
relatively long transport tube. This tube remains fully flooded which
provides a very gentle environment during the most intensive dyeing zone
interchange. In a sense, the most physical and chemical action on the fabric
takes place at what is effectively a long liquor ratio but, in the bulk of the
the J box and by reducing resistance to fabric movement permitted the use of
very low pressure (but high volume) jets, again minimising fabric damage.
fig 1
that during the last half of the 20th century, the use of reactive dyes on cotton
has become almost universal. Reactive dyes satisfy consumer requirements
for excellent fastness in use only after extensive rinsing and ‘soaping’
Wisdom Rinsing
fig 2
The Sclavos rinsing system17 (figure 2) was based on the observation that
established and that if one can introduce fresh clean water directly to the jets
at the same time as removing the most contaminated water then removal of
impurities from the liquor is carried out more efficiently. This has been
control systems.
helped to avoid the need for reprocessing and this is also important in
and control the exact quantity of water in the machine (this requires some
ingenuity due to the difficulty in measuring the volume of water held in the
fabric which in a low liquor machine is mostly above the free liquor level).
Automatic online measurement and control of pH can save time and improve
take decision making away from the urgency of the production environment
to ensure that processes are consistent and follow logical rules for process
creation and selection (Table IX). Thereby operator errors are minimised
and both the cost and environmental impact can be controlled and predicted.
Automation
• People make mistakes – computers
don’t
• Everything that can be automated
should be to ensure consistency
batch to batch
• Automation ensures reliable optimum
processing times independent of the
whim of an operator
TABLE IX
There are other ways in which machine makers can help. We can save
money (and reduce greenhouse gas emissions) by heat recovery and in the
case of Aquachron 2 rinsing we have a special case due to the use of hot
clean water being introduced directly to the jets therefore Sclavos developed
Water Recycling
recycle at least a proportion of their effluent for reuse in the dyehouse. This
these systems use separated steams of discharge to help reduce the cost of
produce water which is probably cleaner than when it entered the factory.
There is some water loss and as well as capital and running costs we create a
new problem of what to do with the collected sludge. Despite the problems
this technology will be adopted everywhere. However, this does not make
things easier for the dyer – now there will be a more direct pressure to
Conclusions
Sadly, I cannot tell you that it is easy to fix the appalling impact that textile
wet processing has on our environment. However, I hope I have been able
to show how common sense approaches to the realities of the situation can
slow down and even reverse this poor record of our industry. There is a clear
TABLE X
common sense approaches can dramatically affect the demand for water
from the biggest user on the planet, agriculture, and here the savings really
Many of you will already know what I have had to say. What we really need
to do is inform political leaders and legislators of the need for action and the
is inconceivable that any enterprise could unilaterally take actions which are
succeeded in selling eco friendly products at a premium but this only really
is a possibility at the ‘fat cat’ end of the market – it doesn’t really impact
to take appropriate action if they is forced to do so and you can only expect
same thing. It isn’t good enough to export dirty industry from the west to
Asia – this does not help global warming or preserve water resources. In
World countries is even more polluting and more wasteful of resources than
international agreement from everyone, including the USA, India and China.
Agreement between the minnows only makes we who are among the
minnows feel righteous. It does not save the world for our children.
References
1. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_Ocean
3. http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/sci/tech/4684029.stm
4. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suez_Canal
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ogallala_aquifer;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Chad ;
http://news.bbc.co.uk/hi/english/static/in_depth/world/2000/world_water_crisis
/default.stm;
Water Crisis as Mexico City Sinks Faster than Venice T Gaynor, The
Consumption
14. R Adrion, Saving Water- A Global Concern in Textile Finishing. Pub. Then AG
2003