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Laser Pointers > Lasers > Experiments & Modifications
DIY Dryfire Laser for Pistol Training?

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 FoodCubes
Join Date: Jul 2008 Junior Member
Posts: 4
Rep Power: 0

Hi everyone, I was wondering if I could get some help or ideas for DIY project I would
like to try. Currently, there a few laser dryfire products on the market used for pistol
training. The idea is to replace live ammunition with a bore-sighted laser pointer which is
activated by pulling the trigger of the gun. This allows for instant feedback on where a
shot is placed while saving money on ammunition. Unfortunately, they cost a few
hundred bucks.

So I was thinking about making my own dryfire laser, possibly by inserting the laser into
a spent casing or a plastic dummy round. If I could then attach an on/off button to a
wire, I could put it onto the trigger. The other option is a thin enough laser pointer/pen
that could sit inside the barrel, but that would also need a method to get the on/off
button to the trigger. Any ideas on how this can be done?

Below are some search terms (links had to be removed) for a demo of a dryfire laser,
some images of dummy rounds, and then some product info on the dryfire lasers on the
market.

Dryfire Laser Demo

At Google: videoplay?docid=-8192714298260014267&q=beamhit&
ei=nOmPSNLXB ZOGqgPSvuihCA&hl=en

Dummy Rounds
Saf-T-Trainer Dummy Ammo...

Dryfire Lasers
Beamhit, bullite...
 07-30-2008, 04:57 AM #2

laserwanabe
Class 2M Laser

Join Date: Jul 2008

Posts: 601
Rep Power: 12

you may be able to find a laser that can sit on the front of your gun, inside may be to
small (depending on the diameter). They sell switches for certain lasers, such as at
atlasnova.com you may be able to run the switch down the barrel behind the trigger. You
can email them and see if it is possible, unless someone else has something they would
like to add.
 07-30-2008, 04:33 PM #4

rog8811
Class 3B Laser

Join Date: Jul 2007

Location: Berkshire UK
Posts: 2,749
Rep Power: 1251

you need a bore sighter.

http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?im...3Doff%26sa%3DG

(there must be cheap ones out there somewhere...)

Most have a switch on the side or the back but I would guess it wouldn't be to hard to
modify them....
Regards rog8811
__________________
See all of my videos on Vimeo
http://www.vimeo.com/4454150

Lots of tutorials and information on lasers

http://www.rog8811.com/

In the land of the blind the one eyed man..... is most likely holding the laser

07-31-2008, 08:31 AM #5

GooeyGus
Class 3B Laser

Join Date: Mar 2008

Posts: 2,673
Rep Power: 2702

you could always get a 3.3mm module, I'm sure it would fit in the barrel and your power
 08-02-2008, 10:25 AM #6

FoodCubes
Join Date: Jul 2008 Junior Member
Posts: 4
Rep Power: 0

Quote:

Originally Posted by GooeyGus

you could always get a 3.3mm module, I'm sure it would fit in the barrel and your power supply
could be where the clip goes.

Ahh, heres one. With a total diameter of 4mm, it utilizes a 3.3mm diode. SHould work just fine! I
THINK it has a driver included too.

Cool, thanks. That one should be small enough for me to rig some sort of sighting
mechanism. Is there a tutorial here on how to assemble the basic components; diode,
battery supply, push button, driver (what's a driver)?

Below is the cheap laser I have relative to a 9mm round. It's attached to some wafer with
the on/off button built in. I don't really understand the wiring.

08-02-2008, 10:27 AM #7

FoodCubes
Join Date: Jul 2008 Junior Member
Posts: 4
Rep Power: 0

Quote:

Originally Posted by rog8811

you need a bore sighter.

(there must be cheap ones out there somewhere...)

Most have a switch on the side or the back but I would guess it wouldn't be to hard to modify
them....
Regards rog8811

Thanks, I was looking into a bore sighter but they seem to only be for the longer riffle
rounds, not pistols. But you're right, that would probably work perfectly for long guns.
 08-02-2008, 10:47 AM #8

GooeyGus
Class 3B Laser

Join Date: Mar 2008

Posts: 2,673
Rep Power: 2702

Quote:

Originally Posted by FoodCubes

[quote author=GooeyGus link=1217392900/0#4 date=1217493100]you could always get a
3.3mm module, I'm sure it would fit in the barrel and your power supply could be where the clip
goes.

Ahh, heres one. With a total diameter of 4mm, it utilizes a 3.3mm diode. SHould work just fine! I
THINK it has a driver included too.

Cool, thanks. *That one should be small enough for me to rig some sort of sighting
mechanism. *Is there a tutorial here on how to assemble the basic components; diode,
battery supply, push button, driver (what's a driver)?

Below is the cheap laser I have relative to a 9mm round. *It's attached to some wafer
with the on/off button built in. *I don't really understand the wiring.

[/quote]

The good thing about the laser that I linked you to, is everything seems to be done for
you. All you need to do is hook up 3v and you're good to go! they say the driver is
already inside (driver regulates the amount of current the diode can draw) so you dont
need to worry about making one. Just connect the - and + pins to a 3vDC source and
you're set. You could do it with a single Li-Ion battery cell, such as a cr123a. Or even an
18650 for a SUPER long battery life.
 11-22-2008, 01:41 AM #10

SuicideKing
Join Date: Nov 2008 Class 1M Laser
Posts: 179
Rep Power: 10

Your weapon looks like a 9mm or a .40 and both sizes are big enough to house a laser
diode.
You'll need a cheap red laser pointer, 3 button cell watch batteries small enough in
diameter to fit into the brass case of an expended round.
Some thin, insulated wire; a PCB type, momentary push button switch; epoxy putty
-sometimes called "super putty"; solder and soldering iron; and some black
electricians tape to insulate the back of the switch and to use as an insulated
"sleave" around the batteries.

Take a few inches of electricians tape and your button batteries, stack the batteries (all
facing the same direction) and while holding the stack, pinched between the thumb and
index finger of one hand, wrap the tape tightly around them. -This will create an
insulated sleave to hold the batteries together.

Wire one end of the PCB switch to the + positive lead of your diode, the other end of the
switch is wired to the positive end of your stacked button batteries (if you can, go ahead
and solder the wire directly to the battery -you won't need to change batteries in this
thing for about ten years). The negative - lead of the diode is wired directly to the
negative end of your stacked button batteries.

Take your expended round and pop out the used primer. this will leave a nice hole in the
center of the bottom of the casing. The PCB switch goes face down into the casing, so
the rubber nib of the switche's button is just poking out of this hole where the primer
was. Use a little square of electricians tape to insulate the back of the switch and then
stuff your battery stack into the case behind it.

You use the super putty to mold around the diode and lens, so it's roughly bullet shaped,
with the end of the lens positioned at the tip of your super putty "bullet". Let
the epoxy putty set until hard (I suggest using the putty made for repairing pipes. It has
a metal base, drys a nice lead color and is super hard.) You find this putty in the paint
dept. of any hardware store. It looks and feels like clay. Mashing it together activates the
 11-22-2008, 07:26 AM #11

spikec
Join Date: Oct 2008 Member
Location: Fayetteville GA
Posts: 38
Rep Power: 0

I have one of these for my 9mm:

http://www.combathunting.com/LASER_B...Boresight.html

They are a tight fit and you turn them on/off by unscrewing the end cap. I haven't tried
but you could probably hack in a tap switch from the battery compartment. I think they
also have them in .40.

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