Journal of Cleaner Production 57 (2013) 2e18

Contents lists available at SciVerse ScienceDirect

Journal of Cleaner Production

journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/jclepro

Review

Perspectives for natural product based agents derived from industrial

plants in textile applications e a review
Shahid-ul-Islam, Mohammad Shahid, Faqeer Mohammad*
Department of Chemistry, Jamia Millia Islamia (A Central University), Jamia Nagar, New Delhi 110025, India

a r t i c l e i n f o a b s t r a c t

Article history: With the consumer’s enhanced awareness of eco-safety, there has been an increasing tendency towards
Received 27 November 2012 the use of sustainable and environmentally friendly materials. In recent years, considerable attention has
Received in revised form been given to the products produced from non-food crops for use in various industries notably in the
29 May 2013
textile industry. Based on biocompatibility, biodegradability, non-toxicity, in addition to their recently
Accepted 1 June 2013
Available online 15 June 2013
discovered properties such as insect repellent, deodorizing, flame retardant, UV protection, and anti-
microbial activity are gaining popularity all around the world for producing more appealing and highly
functional value-added textiles. This review article highlights the most important textile applications of
Keywords:
Natural products
environmental friendly plant-based products such as fibres, polysaccharides, dyes and pigments, poly-
Crops phenols, oils and other biologically active compounds. This is followed by a focus on plant derived
Dyes bioactive agents with antimicrobial properties and application of these agents to the textiles. Apart from
Printing this, the contribution of plant-based agents to green nanotechnology in recent years for the development
Nanoparticles of bioactive textiles is also outlined.
Textiles Ó 2013 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

1. Introduction Deodorizing/aroma (Sricharussin et al., 2009), insect-repellent

Over the past few years, various industries, and particularly the
textile industry, have come under severe criticism for their role in
polluting the environment. Owing to this, strict ecological and
economic restrictions over the applied chemicals, including bans
on certain consumer goods containing synthetic azo dyes (eN]Ne
) and toxic finishing agents have been established in recent years
(Ahlstrom et al., 2005). As a result, there has been a great motiva-
tion in the use natural products for various textile modifications.
Nowadays natural products especially derived from plants; on
the account of their abundant availability, biocompatibility, low
toxicity, green approach and environmental friendly nature are
gaining popularity all around the globe for their use in textiles
(Joshi et al., 2009; Samanta and Agarwal, 2009). Besides, there is
growing demand in the market place for the textiles that offers
comfort and other functional properties. Therefore, scientists
working in the area of textiles are investigating the possible ap-
plications of plant-based bioactive agents for producing more
appealing and highly functional value-added textile substrates.
* Corresponding author. Tel.: þ91 9350114878.
E-mail addresses: shads.jmi@gmail.com ( Shahid-ul-Islam), mshahid96@gmail.com
(M. Shahid), faqeermohammad@rediffmail.com (F. Mohammad).
(Specos et al., 2010), flame retardant (Huang et al., 2001), protec-
tion against UV rays (Grifoni et al., 2011; Sun and Tang, 2011), and
antimicrobial (Joshi et al., 2009; Shahid et al., 2012) are some of the
novel prominent properties, which have been obtained on textiles
in recent years.
Due to the increasing demand for textile products that offer the
protection from the infection of pathogenic microorganisms, anti-
microbial modification of textiles has become extremely important
and has attracted the interest of R&D institutions. To provide
antimicrobial effect for textiles, there is strong trend in searching
and developing new non-toxic and ecofriendly agents which are
based on natural products because of possible harmful effects of
many synthetic agents.
Admittedly, research has been oriented towards exploring novel
plant-based bioactive agents with antimicrobial properties to
develop clean, nontoxic, environmentally benign bioactive textile
products for use in a variety of areas, particularly in medical ap-
plications. Moreover, the recent amalgamation of nanotechnology
with textile sector has further boasted the additional role of plant-
based agents to develop functional textiles on large sale. Based on
these facts, natural products from industrial plants are one of the
proposed platforms for the large scale development of technical
and novel environment friendly textiles. Owing to this, extensive
R&D in this area is underway worldwide. This review article

0959-6526/$ e see front matter Ó 2013 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2013.06.004
 S. Islam et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 57 (2013) 2e18
presents comprehensive information about the uses of industrial
plant products in textiles, their extraction methodologies employed
as well as recent technological advances for large scale production
of textiles. An extensive and systematic review of the extant liter-
ature was performed by analyzing the information available on
natural agents derived from industrial plants for their textiles ap-
plications by using a computerized bibliographic search via major
scientific databases including SciFinder, Sciencedirect, Medline and
Google Scholar. The most relevant articles, 206 papers including
some international books published from 1991 to 2013 were
selected for screening and inclusion in this review. Furthermore,
this research article highlights some key factors and challenges that
should be addressed during the production of these sustainable
materials, and thus provides a useful report that can be helpful in
the development of green textiles manufacturing (Fig. 1). These
insights subsequently provide information to aim at expanding the
cultivation of non food crops for future textile applications.
2. Plant fibres in textiles e traditions of yesterday and future
of tomorrow
There has been much interest in the development of natural
fibres for use in textile industry, apparently due to strong consumer
demand for ‘green’ products based on renewables. The cultivation
of crops for fibre production has a long history. Cotton fibre has
been an indispensable part of human existence. In the past,
particularly during World II, cotton fabrics were used extensively
for tentage, tarpaulins and truck covers. However, with the dis-
covery of microbial resistant synthetic fibres such as nylons,
acrylics and polyesters, the use of cotton fabrics decreased to a large
extend (Ramchandran et al., 2004). Recently, the growing envi-
ronmental awareness among the government and industrial firms
has dramatically increased the worldwide market for cotton fabrics.
The annual worldwide production of cotton is estimated at 50% of
total world fibre production (Sampaio et al., 2005), with China,
America and India being the major producers. Cotton fibre is the
most widely used natural fibre in textile industry today; it is most
often spun into yarn or thread and used to make a soft, breathable
textile.
Nowadays, cotton is the principal raw material for use in textile
industry, but the growing of cotton crops requires very intensive
irrigations and employs high levels of pesticides and fertilizers
(Chapagain et al., 2006; Wossink and Denaux, 2006). Many coun-
tries are now growing genetically modified cotton, to reduce the
Agricultural production pipeline
Sustainable cultivation of plants
Food industry Timber industry
By products
Wastes and by products
Fibre production pipeline Natural dye production pipeline
Textile processing pipeline
Sales, Distrubtion, Marketing
Fig. 1. Concept of green and sustainable textile manufacturing using natural products.
3
use of pesticides in its cultivation and to increase the production.
Scientists are engaged all around the globe in the process of iden-
tifying and isolating useful genes from various sources and evalu-
ating them in the possibility of improving the quality of cotton
(Proto et al., 2000). ‘Bt cotton’ is one of the pest-resistant strains,
the genes of which have been modified by insertion of the gene of a
pest toxin Bacillus thuringiensis. Although, genetically modified
cotton do offer an additional environmental benefit but is regarded
as less ‘natural’. Nowadays, textile manufacturers are promoting
organic cotton fabrics (the cotton fibre used to produce a fabric
must have been grown from genetically unmodified seed varieties
and without the use of herbicides or pesticides) (Dawson, 2012). To
overcome the negative social and environmental aspects of cotton
cultivation worldwide, Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) association has
been set up to produce cotton in a more sustainable manner.
In order to meet the current need of fibres in textiles, besides
cotton there is an increasing demand for cultivation of new alter-
native fibre yielding crops which require low environment impact
conditions namely, jute, ramie, hemp and flax (Table 1) (Sampaio
et al., 2005). These are classified as bast fibres and are known to
provide structural support to the plants. Among all, jute is a long,
soft, shiny vegetable fibre predominantly cultivated in Indian sub-
continent, China and Thailand (Basu et al., 2009). It is a lingo-
cellulosic fibre that is attracting more and more attention with its
outstanding properties. It has been widely utilized in the manu-
facture of flexible packing fabrics, carpet backing and decorative
fabrics as well as in geotextiles (Anand, 2008). There is hardly any
drawback associated with jute fibres except the stiffness and
harshness properties, for which chemicals and processes are
required to minimize the spinning problems (Liu et al., 2010). In
addition to jute, flax fibres, particularly long-fibre flax is almost
exclusively used for linen production.
Ramie (Boehmeria nivea) is increasingly being employed to
make industrial sewing thread, packing materials, fishing nets, and
filter cloths. It has also been utilized in fabrics for household fur-
nishings (upholstery, canvas) and clothing. To increase its use as a
general textile fibre, Liu et al. (2008) incorporated chelate mole-
cule, ethylenediamine in the structure of raw ramie fibre using a
crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin. The modified fibre showed
characters similar to that of wool fibre and a significantly
improved dye uptake.
Among other environment friendly crops, industrial hemp is a
good source for producing hemp fibre, which is widely used in the
modern production of durable fabrics. Due to the presence of
phytochemical drug component D-9-tetrahydrocannabinol (THC),
its cultivation in most of countries has been prohibited. However, a
low THC form of industrial hemp is now legal to grow in Canada
and China. To quantify the major impacts associated with the
production of hemp yarn for textiles, recently life cycle analysis has
been examined by van der Werf and Turunen (2008). They
Beverage industry
concluded that reduction of environmental impacts associated with
the production of hemp yarn should give priority to reduction of
energy used in the fibre processing and yarn production stages and
to reduction of eutrophication in the crop production phase.
Additionally, over the past 10 years, the byproducts made from
commodity crops being abundant, cheap and renewable provide a
readily available alternative source for natural cellulose fibres that
could be easily produced in high yields. The recent concerns about
both, the future price and availability of natural and synthetic fibres
currently used, has fuelled research to explore the agricultural
byproducts for the production of natural cellulose fibres to meet
the current industrial demand. The literature indicates that
byproducts are composed of considerable amounts (35e40%) of
cellulose that can be extracted in the form of fibres. Byproducts are
generated in million tons every year worldwide from the major
4 S. Islam et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 57 (2013) 2e18

Table 1
Merits and Demerits of some commonly used plant fibres.

Fibre Source Merits Demerits

Cotton Genus Gossypium  Abundant availability  Large consumption of

 Environmentally friendly pesticides and herbicides
 Breathable and soft  High water requirement
 Cost-effective
 Renewable nature
 Agro based
Jute Genus Corchorus  Agro based  Spinning problems
 Annually renewable
 Biodegradable
 Low cost
 No residues of pesticides and heavy metals
Flax Linum usitatissimum L.  Low dose of chemical requirement  Quality and consistency
 Environmentally safe problems
Hemp Cannabis sativa L.  No requirement of pesticides  Cultivation restriction
 High tensile strength
 Hemp textiles feel softer
 Environmentally friendly crop
 Requires low quantity of water
 No waste production
Ramie Boehmeria nivea  Wrinkle resistance  Requires chemical processes
 High strength to degum the fibre
 Stain resisting ability  Brittle and stiff
 Resistant to bacteria, mould and insect attack  High cost

agricultural crops. Several byproducts from commodity crops such
as corn stalks (Reddy and Yang, 2005a), corn husks, rice and wheat
straw, sorghum stalk and leaves, banana leaves, pineapple leaves
(Reddy and Yang, 2005b), sugar cane stalks (Collier et al., 1992), hop
stems (Reddy and Yang, 2009a), soybean straw (Reddy and Yang,
2009b), lotus petioles (Pan et al., 2011), Cordia dichotoma
branches (Jayaramudu et al., 2011) and sugar cane straw (Costa
et al., 2013) have been studied to develop novel cellulose fibres
with mechanical properties similar to that of common textile fibres.
Therefore, such a novel approach is a worthwhile route for the
production of natural fibres that will help the fibre industry to be
sustainable and also add value and increase the income from the
agricultural crops. Besides, it will provide a platform for the re-
searchers working in the field of textile science for the production
of safe and novel textiles in the near future.
3. Plant polysaccharides as thickeners for textile printing
Thickening agents forms an essential part for applying colour to
fabrics in definite patterns or designs. Generally, textile thickening
agents are high molecular weight compounds; their function is to
carry dyestuffs, chemicals and other printing assistants to textile
substrates during printing process. In other words, these agents
impart adhesivity and plasticity to the printing paste that has to be
applied onto the fabric. To carry this function, alginates, guar gum
and its derivatives, methyl and carboxymethyl cellulose, xanthan
gum and some exudate gums are excellent candidates, since they
can impart high viscosities at low concentrations and posses the
advocate rheological behaviour (Fijan et al., 2007). Beside Chemical
structures of some of these plant polysaccharides are presented in
Fig. 2. The use of biodegradable thickeners is preferred because it
has been established from the analysis of wastewaters that the use
of guar thickeners is less harmful to the environment (Sostar and
Schneider, 1998). In addition to good quality prints, Schneider
and Sostar-Turk (2003) also reported that the use of biodegrad-
able additives and guar gum on cellulosic textiles results in
reduction of wastewater pollution. All polysaccharides, with the
exception of alginates containing reactive hydroxyl groups of
higher reactivity must be substituted for their use in reactive
printings. This is due to the fact that in some cases chemical
reactions may occur between the dyes and thickening agents
resulting in unacceptable fibre handling. In view of price, Sostar
Turk and Schneider (1999) suggested partly substituted guar gum
as an acceptable alternative which do not causes fibre stiffness for
printing with monofunctional reactive dyes. It has also been re-
ported by the same authors (Sostar-Turk and Schneider, 2000) that
highly substituted guar gum can be used in the printing of cotton
with bifunctional reactive dyes with satisfactory results.
Recently, Teli et al. (2009a) studied the textile printing ability of
germinated maize starch which is generally discarded as a waste
product, and compared it with the starch from non-germinated
maize. They analyzed the prints in terms of colour value (K/S and L*,
a*, b* value), bending length and fastness to washing and crocking.
According to their results, germinated maize starch which is ob-
tained from non-edible maize, can act as a full or partial substitute
for non-germinated or sound maize starch. Likewise, it has been
observed that Amaranthus (Rajgeera) starch can be used as a
thickener to substitute wheat (Teli et al., 2009b) and maize (Teli
et al., 1996) starch in textile printings. Wheat and maize being
staple foods are widely consumed all around the globe; therefore
starch extraction from Amaranthus will decrease the load on con-
sumption of wheat and maize starch as thickeners for textile
printings.
To modify the native starch functional properties for better
textile printing, the hydroxyl groups present in starch can be
substituted by negatively charged carboxymethyl groups in an
esterification reaction. Tatongjai and Lumdubwong (2010) studied
the physiochemical properties and textile utilization of low- and
moderate-substituted carboxymethyl rice starches containing
different amylose content. They reported that degree of substitu-
tion had a greater effect than amylose content in the determination
of physiochemical and functional properties of carboxymethyl rice
starches. Likewise, Meshram et al. (2009) investigated the chemical
modification of starch via grafting using styrene and methyl
methacrylate/butyl acrylate as monomers to overcome or minimize
the limitations of starch during sizing of cotton textiles. Further-
more, to reduce the solid wastes and wastewater pollution in the
textile printing industry, polysaccharide thickeners such as
alginate, carboxymethylated guar gum and carboxymethylated
cellulose have been recycled from printing paste residues and
 S. Islam et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 57 (2013) 2e18 5

- + - +
O O Na O O Na
OH
O OH
O O
HO O
OH O HO
O O
OH
O - +
OH O O Na
O

OH - +
O O Na

(a) Sodium alginate

OH OH COONa

O
OH O

HO O

HO
OH
O OH
OH
O O
OH
OH O
HO OH
O HO O HO
O HO O
O
O
OH
OH
OH n O n

(b) Guar gum COONa

(c) Carboxymethylated guar gum

OMe OMe OMe

O O O
O O O
O
OMe OMe OMe
OMe OMe OMe
n

(d) Methyl cellulose

OH OH

O
O O
OH HO
HO HO OH
OH O
O OH
O OH O O
HO HO
O O
OH OH
O HO OH OH
O HO
OH O OH O
O O
HO HO

OH OH
O O
Amylose Amylopectin
(e) Constituents of starch
OH OH

OH O OH
O
O OH
HO HO
HO O O O
HO
O O
OH OH

OH OH
n
O
O O
O
HO O OH
OH HO
O OH
O
H3C OH
O HO HO O CH3
O

(f) Xanthan gum

Fig. 2. Natural polysaccharides of plant origin used as thickeners in textile printing.
6 S. Islam et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 57 (2013) 2e18
wastewater concentrates for the preparation of printing pastes for
monoreactive dyes (Fijan et al., 2009a, 2009b). Such a novel
approach is of growing interest due to increasing attention to as-
pects of environmental pollution, besides it will help to keep the
production costs for plant polysaccharides competitive.
The use of various gums has extensively been studied for their
printing properties. Recently, investigations have been conducted
to improve the thickening properties of gums via adduct formation
with suitable vinyl monomers by using free radical polymerization.
Polyacrylic acid/British gum (Abbas, 2004), polyacrylamide/guar
gum (Ibrahim et al., 2003), polyacrylic acid/gum Arabic or dextrin
(Abo-Shosha et al., 2006; Ibrahim et al., 2006), polyacrylic acid/
karaya gum and polyacrylic acid/tamarind seed gum (Abo-Shosha
et al., 2008) are some adducts which have shown excellent thick-
ening properties for their use in textile printings.
4. Newly discovered pigment crops
Nature has always fascinated the mankind with brilliant and
soothing colours. Human being has always been interested in col-
ours, in primitive times, seeds, flowers, stems, barks, berries, leaves
from various plant species have been exploited for the extraction of
natural colours; mainly for coloration of textiles and decoration of
human caves and dwellings (Sinha et al., 2013). Till the late nine-
teenth century, all colours came from the natural products, as there
was no other means by which colour could have been derived.
However, the accidental discovery of synthetic dyes in 1856 by W.H.
Perkin, and their immediate acceptability throughout the world,
the use of natural colours in textile industries almost vanished
(Holme, 2006).
In recent years, the world has become increasingly aware of the
environmental issues. Synthetic dyestuff, in particular, has come
under severe criticism for their high environmental pollution at the
stage of manufacturing as well as application (Oh et al., 1997;
Guesmi et al., 2013a). On the other hand, dyes derived from natu-
ral sources, especially from plants are considered to be biode-
gradable, non-allergic and less toxic than synthetic counterparts.
Although, toxicity studies on natural dyes for textile applications
have been very limited, however many researchers have reported
that there is negligible evidence about the possibility of their
adverse reactions to humans (Sewekov, 1988; Wanyama et al.,
2012). Owing to these facts, there is an increasing recognition
that a shift towards natural pigments could contribute greatly to-
wards sustainability of the textile industry. Consequently, consid-
erable research work on the use of natural dyes for textile
coloration has already been done and is currently underway all
around the globe (Ali et al., 2009; Komboonchoo and Bechtold,
2009). At present, new alternative pigment crops are being
sought in order to meet the growing demand for natural pigments.
In the year 2000 (Bhuyan and Saikia, 2005), a study was initiated at
the RRL (CSIR), Johrat to extract dyes from parts of five different
plants such as Morinda angustifolia, Rubia cordifolia, Tectona grandis,
Mimusops elengi, and Terminalia arjuna indigenous to northeastern
India. It was observed that colour components isolated from these
plant species mainly contain anthraquinone and flavonoids moi-
eties. The colorimetric results obtained, after application of these
aforementioned pigments on natural silk and cotton fabrics
demonstrated that these plants may be alternative source to syn-
thetic dyes for textile dyeing. Recently, a research project entitled
“Sustainable Production of Plant-derived Indigo Research &
Development” commonly known by Spindigo supported by the
European Community has been scheduled (2001e2004) to evaluate
the techno-economic feasibility of indigo-yielding crops with the
aim to re-introduce it into European agriculture (John, 2009; John
et al., 2005). The indigo comes from crops of Indigofera tinctoria,
woad (Isatis tinctoria), Chinese woad (Isatis indigotica), and polyg-
onum (Polygonum tinctorium) (John and Angelini, 2009). Growing
the indigo crops, harvesting them, ensuring seed supplies,
improving yields, providing machinery to extract the indigo on
farm, purifying the product, and testing it for dye quality has been
investigated in the project in order to assess its suitability in natural
textiles production. Mirjalili et al. (2011) extracted and isolated
colour components from weld and used it for dyeing of wool fibres.
Their results revealed that weld as a natural dye can be used as a
viable alternative to synthetic acid dyes. Plant colorants offer a safer
dyeing alternative, so there has been much interest in the extrac-
tion and isolation of new plant pigments for textile applications.
Guesmi et al. (2012) has reported indicaxanthin, a natural dye
extracted from fruits of Opuntia ficus-indica for wool dyeing. Like-
wise, a chalcone compound isosalipurposide for wool dyeing was
isolated from Acacia cyanophylla yellow flowers (Ghouila et al.,
2012). The flavonoids luteolin-4-O-glucoside and 3-methyl-
quercetin have been isolated for the first time in Serratula tinctoria
leaves by Guinot et al. (2009). They suggested that optimum har-
vesting period of leaves for the flavonoid extraction should be at the
end of plant growing cycle, when the flavonoids are particularly
concentrated. Vankar et al. (2008a) identified barberine, an iso-
quinoline alkaloid from Mahonia napaulenensis, for wool, cotton
and silk dyeing. Many industrial crops such as Reseda luteola L.
(Angelini et al., 2003) and Rubia tinctorum (Angelini et al., 1997)
have shown good agronomic characteristics as dye crops in Medi-
terranean area. Furthermore, the pigments, luteolin and alizarin
from the respective plants have resulted in good dye properties
after application on silk, cotton and wool yarns. Siva et al. (2012)
has examined anthraquinone dye production from in vitro-estab-
lished root cultures of Oldenlandia umbellata L. They suggested that
through in vitro culture anthraquinone dye production can be
maintained throughout the year.
Recent research in natural colorants and pigments suggests the
following advantages (Sinha et al., 2012a; Leitner et al., 2012).
 There is no chemical processing required in their preparation.
 No health hazards and sometimes may act as health cure.
 Being biodegradable, exhibit higher compatibility with the
environment.
 They are harmonized with nature.
 May show insect repellent, UV blocking, deodorising and
antimicrobial properties.
Considering special advantages and high perspectives of the
application of plant-derived pigments in textiles, a vast number of
industrial plants are being scrutinized for the identification of color
compounds. The color components obtained from many plant parts
such as, leaves, fruits, seeds, flowers, barks, and roots from diverse
plant species are summarized in Table 2.
Nowadays scientific efforts are being made for the production of
natural dyes with lower specific costs and new strategies for textile
dyeing are being established for the industrial acceptance of natural
pigments. An alternative cost competitive route for the production
of natural colorants is through the use of by-products and wastes
from food, timber and agricultural industries (Bechtold et al., 2006).
Table 3 summarizes some of the plant pigments that have been
recently extracted from several industrial wastes and used in textile
dyeing.
The availability of natural colours from colored plant wastes
released from the food and beverage industry for textile dyeing are
considered to be an important economical and sustainable source
for natural textile-dyeing operations (Bechtold et al., 2006). Shams-
Nateri (2011) has reported the reuse of the waste water of madder
as a natural dye for wool dyeing. He observed that the color
 S. Islam et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 57 (2013) 2e18 7

Table 2
Some important natural colorants from industrial plants.

Plant Family Parts used Pigment Class Colours Reference

obtained

Acacia Arabica Fabaceae Bark Catecin, Epicatecin Tannin Yellow Samanta et al., 2008
Acacia cyanophylla Fabaceae Flower Isosalipurposide Chalcone Yellow Ghouila et al., 2012
Albizia lebbeck Fabaceae Bark Quercetin Flavonoid Brick red Baliarsingh et al., 2012
Allium cepa Liliaceae Dried skin Quercetol Flavonoid Orange Lokhande and Dorugade, 1999
Alkanna tinctoria Boraginaceae Root Alkannin Napthoquinone Red Rekaby et al., 2009
Acacia catechu Mimosaceae Wood Catechin Anthocyanin Brown Khan et al., 2011a
Artocarpus heterophyllus Moraceae Wood Morol Flavonoid Yellow Prusty et al., 2010
Adhatoda vasica Acantaceae Leaves Vasicine Alkaloid Yellow Gokhale et al., 2004
Berberis aristata Berberidaceae Bark Berberine Alkaloid Yellow Pruthi et al., 2008
Berberis vulgaris Berberidaceae Root/Bark Berberine Alkaloid Yellowish Aminoddin, 2010
Butea monosperma Fabaceae Flower Butryin, Isobutyrin Flavonoid Yellow, orange Sinha et al., 2012a
Bixa orellana Bixaceae Seeds Bixin Carotenoid Yellow Sinha et al., 2013
Caesalpinia sappan Caesalpiniaceae Wood Braziline Dihydropyran Red Samanta et al., 2008
Carthamus tinctorius Asteraceae Flower Carthamin Benzoquinone Yellow, red Gokhale et al., 2004
Chlorophora tinctoria Moraceae Wood Morin, Maclurin Benzoquinone Yellow Kumar and Sinha, 2010
Coffea Arabica Rubiaceae Beans Caffeine Alkaloid Brown Lee, 2007
Crocus sativus Iridaceae Flower Crocetin Carotenoid Yellow, orange Liakopoulou-Kyriakides
et al., 1998
Curcuma longa Zingiberaceae Rhizome Curcumin Carotenoid Yellow Sachan and Kapoor, 2007
Datisca cannabina Datiscaceace Leaves Datiscetin Flavonoid Yellow Deveoglu et al., 2012
Eclipta alba Asteraceae Leaves Wedelolactone Coumarin Brown Vankar et al., 2007a
Eucalyptus Myrtaceae Leaves Galllic acid, Quercetin Tannin/Flavonoid Yellow Mongkholrattanasit
et al., 2010
Fraxinus excelsior Oleaceae Bark Rutin, Quercitrin Flavonoid Yellow Bechtold et al., 2007a
Garcinia mangostana Guttiferae Fruit Cyanidin-3-sophoroside Cyanidin Orange/brown Chairat et al., 2007
Haematoxylan Leguminosae Heartwood Haematoxylin Dihydropyran Red Pawlak et al., 2006
compechianum
Isatis tinctoria Brassicaeae Leaves Indigo Indigoid Blue Barani et al., 2012
Indigofera tinctoria Fabaceace Leaves Indirubin,Indican Indigoid Blue Wu et al., 1999
Juglans regia Juglandaceae Bark Juglone Napthoquinone Brown Jangwan et al., 2007
Lawsonia inermis Lytheraceae Leaves Lawsone Napthoquinone Orange Yusuf et al., 2012
Lithospermum Boraginaceae Roots Shikonin Napthoquinone Red Feng et al., 2007
erythrorhizon
Mahonia napaulensis Berberidaceae Bark Berberine Alkaloid Greenish yellow Vankar et al., 2008a
Mallotus philippinensis Euphorbiaceae Fruit Rottlerin Chalcone Red/yellow Khan et al., 2011b
Melastoma malabathricum Melastomataceae Fruit Casuraricitin, Anthocyanin Black Vankar et al., 2009
Mimosa tenuiflora Fabaceae Bark Condensed tannins Tannins Purple Erkan et al., 2011
Mimusops elengi Sapotaceae Bark Quercetin, Myricetin Flavonoid Brown Bhuyan and Saikia, 2005
Morinda angustifolia Rubiaceae Roots Morindone Anthraquinone Brown Bhuyan et al., 2002
Morinda citrifolia Rubiaceae Root Morindone Anthraquinone Red Morton, 1992
Myrica esculenta Myricaceae Bark Myricetol Flavonoid Yellow Akhtar et al., 2012
Nyctanthes arbortristis Oleaceae Flower Nyctanthin Caroteniod Bright orange Kumar and Sinha, 2010
Opuntia ficus-indica Cactaceae Fruit Indicaxanthin Betalain Yellow, orange Guesmi et al., 2013a
Opuntia lasiacantha Cactaceae Fruit e Betalain Yellow, orange Ali and El-Mohamedy, 2011
Pterocarpus santalinus Fabaceae Wood Santalin Flavonoid Red Samanta et al., 2008
Punica granatum Lythraceae Fruit Punicalgin Tannin Yellow Sinha et al., 2012b
Polygonum tinctorium Polygonaceae Leaves Indican Indigoid Blue Campeol et al., 2006
Quercus infectoria Lythraceae Rind Gallic acid, Ellagic acid Tannin Yellowish Shahid et al., 2012
Reseda luteola Resedaceae Leaves/Seeds Luteolin Flanonoid Yellow Angelini et al., 2003
Rheum emodi Polygonaceae Root Rhein, Emodin Anthraquinone Yellow Khan et al., 2012
Rhizoma coptidis Ranumculaceae Root Berberine Isoquinoline Yellow Ke et al., 2006
Rubia cordifolia Rubiaceae Root Pupurin, Rubiacordone Anthaquinone Red Bhuyan and Saikia, 2005
Rubia tinctorum Rubiaceae Root Alizarin Anthraquinone Red Santis and Moresi, 2007
Saraca asoca Caesalpinaceae Bark (þ)-Catechin Tannin Brick red Baliarsingh et al., 2012
Serratula tinctoria Asteraceae Leaves Luteolin Flavonoid Yellow Guinot et al., 2009
Solidago Canadensis Asteraceae Plant Quercetin, Quercitirin Flavonoid Golden yellow Leitner et al., 2012
Sophora japonica Leguminosae Seedpod/Flower Rutin Flavonoid Yellow Chen et al., 2010
Tabebuia avellanedae Bignoniaceae Heartwood Lapachol Napthoquinone Yellow Hussain et al., 2007
Tagetes erecta Asteraceae Flower Lutein Carotenoid Yellow Montazer and Parvinzadeh, 2007
Terminalia arjuna Combretaceae Bark Baicalein, Ellagic acid Tannin Light brown Bhuyan and Saikia, 2005
Terminalia chebula Combretaceae Bark-Fruit Chebulinic acid Tannin Pink, yellow Kumar and Sinha, 2010
Tectona grandis Verbenaceae Leaves Tectoquinone, Anthaquinone Yellow Bhuyan and Saikia, 2005
Tectoleafquinone

parameters and fastness properties of dyed wool samples in
reconstructed dye bath are the same as that of initial wool dyeing.
The economic analysis of the study also showed that the reusing
wastewater can cause 19.91% cost saving in wool dyeing with
madder. In addition to textile coloration such promising approach
may result in the useful utilization of wastewaters, thus provides an
efficient way of waste minimization. Some plant wastes such as
rosemary, rose, lavender, mate tea extracts left after oil extraction
from many factories in Turkey create serious environmental
pollution, however these have been efficiently utilized for the
extraction of natural dyes and used to obtain ecological dyeing on
cationized cotton fabric and woolen yarn with satisfactory results
(Bulut and Akar, 2012). Meksi et al. (2012) also studied olive mill
wastewater (OMW), which is a by-product of the olive oil
8 S. Islam et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 57 (2013) 2e18

Table 3 plant species which can be used in textile industry, therefore

Wastes and by-products from different industries as sustainable sources of natural research trials are being conducted on industrial plants in order to
dyes.
screen and select species that are fit for modern sustainable culti-
Plant/crop Type of product Wastes as natural Reference vation techniques (Ganglberger, 2009). It is to be noted that con-
dye source
ventional farming methods for the cultivation of industrial plant
Grape Wine Pomace Bechtold et al., 2007b species use energy, water and synthetic agrochemicals as the main
Onion Food Peel Bechtold et al., 2006 inputs. For plants to be utilized in natural textile industry, a com-
Red beet Food Peel
mon requirement is organic certification. This means that the in-
Black tea Food Extracted residue
Raspberries Juice Pomace dustrial plant species are cultivated under the conditions
Black elder Juice Pomace prescribed by organic farming. The Oeko-Tex Association, Inter-
Sour cherries Liquor Distilled residue nationaler Verband der Naturtextilwirtschaft (IVN), Organic Trade
Cherries Strong liquor Distilled residue
Association (USA), Soil Association (UK), and Organic and Crop
Blackcurrant Juice Pomace
Elder Strong liquor Distilled residue
Improvement Association (OCIA) are some of the national and in-
Pomegranate Food Peel Sinha et al., 2012b ternational organizations dealing with the organic certification of
Olive tree Food Waste water extract Meksi et al., 2012 products (Dawson, 2012). The development of organically pro-
Rosemary Oil Extracted residue Bulut and Akar, 2012 duced fibres and dyes from abundantly available plants constitute
Rose Oil Extracted residue
an attractive choice for the modern green textile industry. Vogl and
Lavender Oil Extracted residue
Mate tea Oil Extracted residue Hartl (2003) in their review article overviewed the production and
Saffron Spice Petal Raja et al., 2012 processing of organically grown fibre nettle (Urtica dioica L.) and its
Ash-tree Timber Bark Bechtold et al., 2007a potential use in the natural textile industry. In the year 2003, at the
Teak Timber Leaves Prusty et al., 2010
Thüringer Landesanstalt für Landwirtschaft (Germany), 108 dye
Orange Food Peel Hou et al., 2013
plant species have been assessed on the basis of their suitability for
modern cultivations systems, on yields, and on dyeing quality
(Hartl and Vogl, 2003). Likewise in Austria some of industrial plants
such as Madder (R. tinctorum), Weld (R. luteola), Canadian Golden
extraction process as a potential source of natural dye for textile
Rod (Solidago canadensis), Dyer’s Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria),
dyeing. Their study indicated that olive mill wastewater as a natural
and Dyer’s Knotweed (P. tinctorium) have achieved the agricultural
dye contributes to resolve the environmental problem of olive mill
criteria for sustainable cultivation. Besides, these plants have fitted
wastewater. They also suggested that such a natural dye being
the requirements stated by the modern dyehouses and textile in-
renewable, available with large quantities in Tunisia and in all olive
dustry (Ganglberger, 2009). The promising results obtained by us-
oil producing countries with free costs can be recommended for
ing these plant species in textile industries create an opportunity
industrial application if it is used in conjunction with ecofriendly
for farmers to produce more such crops in the near future.
metal mordants.
In order to meet the future demand of natural colorants in
6. Techniques for extraction of pigments from industrial
textile dyeing, in addition to cost competitive approaches many
plants
researchers have focused on the use of novel technologies as pre-
treatment methods such as UV radiation (Iqbal et al., 2008),
Due to the growing awareness about the cleaner surroundings,
gamma radiation (Bhatti et al., 2010; Rehman et al., 2012), plasma
not only the use of natural products the techniques employed in
treatment (Ghoranneviss et al., 2011), enzyme treatment (Vankar
their extraction are constantly revived. Currently, there are a
et al., 2007b), chitosan treatment (Dev et al., 2009) and post-
number of methods used to extract the natural agents from plants.
treatment methods such as ammonia treatment (Montazer and
Table 4 highlights the merits and demerits of some selective
Parvinzadeh, 2004, 2007) to overcome the limitations with natu-
techniques used for natural pigments extraction.
ral dyeing, particularly fastness and to impart other value added
functional properties to naturally dyed textiles. The effect of such
6.1. Soxhlet extraction
treatments on fabrics dyed with plant derived colorants have
significantly improved the color strength, enhanced the rating of
Soxhlet extraction is one of the traditional methods used to
fastness properties, resulted in the development of beautiful shades
extract natural agents from plant sources. The main disadvantages
on various textile substrates and other functional properties in an
which have hampered its use at present are several hours of
environmental friendly manner. On the account of these facts, the
extraction time, chances of damage to thermolabile compounds
textile companies all over the world are showing growing interest
present in the extract and consumption of large amount of solvent
to re-establish the technology in their production line. An addi-
and energy. Recently, the advancement in technology has brought
tional aspect which is interesting and very attractive is the use of
into focus the new fast and efficient unconventional methods for
natural dye waste produced after extraction of colorants as a readily
the extraction of natural products; these new methods have
available and excellent material for heavy metal adsorption from
delivered better results and are discussed below.
waste waters (Vankar et al., 2011). These additional benefits seem
to work as a catalyst or deriving force to attract R&D attention for
6.2. Ultrasonic extraction
their large-scale implementation in future textile industry.
Ultrasound is classified according to frequency range as power
5. Selection of suitable industrial plants e a real concern for ultrasound (20e100 kHz) and diagnostic ultrasound (1e10 MHz).
modern dye house and textile industry It is known to produce cavitations in the sample to be investi-
gated, and the collapse of these cavitation bubbles induces a
Over the past few years, the demand for sustainable materials, mechanical stress on the cells. This results in cell disruption and
products and services is increasing due to the growing environ- penetration of the solvent into the cells. In this way, it increases
mental, health-related and social awareness of consumers (Islam the solubilization of the compound and finally the extraction yield
et al., 2013; Shahid et al., 2013). As there are about thousands of (Leonelli and Mason, 2010). The use of ultrasound technique has
 S. Islam et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 57 (2013) 2e18 9

Table 4
Some methods used to extract pigments from plant materials for textile applications.

Method Advantages Disadvantages

Conventional maceration  Simple  Low extraction yield

 Can be used for both initial and bulk extractions  Time consuming
 Does not leads to thermal degradation  Requires large quantity of solvents
Soxhlet extraction  Simple process  Possibility of thermal degradation
 Recycling of solvent  Large volume of solvent required
 No filtration of extract required  Long time process
 Maintains high extraction temperature  May produce toxicity due to solvents
Ultrasound assisted extraction  Faster process  Limited extraction efficiency
 High efficiency  May result in wastage of ultrasonic
 Use of low temperatures energy by using ultrasonic bath
 Reduces energy costs
 Increases extraction yield
 High concentration and purity
Microwave extraction  Simple method  May require filtration after extraction
 Reduces the extraction time  Instrument cost
 Reduces solvent use
Supercritical carbon dioxide extraction  High yield  Use of co-solvents
 Environment friendly process  Extraction depends on flow rate
 Elimination of solvent residues  High cost of equipment
 Improved functionality  Elevated pressure requirement
 No product degradation
 Low cost of CO2
 Faster process

proven to be a better method in comparison with the conven-
tional heating. Recently, natural colorants from green wattle bark,
marigold flowers, pomegranate rinds, 4 o clock plant flowers and
cocks comb flowers (Sivakumar et al., 2011) and tannins from
myrobalan nuts (Sivakumar et al., 2007) showed that ultrasound
improves their extraction efficiency in a faster and effective
manner. In addition to extraction, ultrasound being a clean tech-
nology has other potential uses in the textile industry like desiz-
ing (Wang et al., 2012), scouring (Bahtiyari and Duran, 2013),
dyeing (Vankar et al., 2007b) and so on. It has been used to
overcome the limitations of traditional or conventional methods
commonly available for dyeing, a transfer to sonication method
which uses ultrasound being highly efficient, energy saving,
economical and low waste generation technique can produce
quality dyed fabrics (Guesmi et al., 2013a, 2013b). Power ultra-
sound has also taken a significant place in chemical and physical
activities of the process industries, particularly in leather sector
(Sivakumar et al., 2008, 2009). In general, ultrasonic has lowered
the hurdles associated with the extraction and application of
natural pigments from plants for their high value utilization in
textile industry.
6.3. Microwave extraction
Microwaves are electromagnetic radiations, the use of micro-
waves as a heating source for the extraction of natural products is
extensively reported in the literature (Abramovitech, 1991;
Majetich and Hicks, 1995). Basically, microwaves are associated
with electric and magnetic fields, which are oscillating at perpen-
dicular directions with respect to each other. The electric field
component is responsible for its heating effects. Microwave
extraction has been shown to depend upon many factors, such as
the nature of solvent and volume, extraction temperature, time,
microwave power and characteristics of the product under
consideration. Owing to this, several approaches for optimization
and process modelling are under investigation. Currently, response
surface methodology (RSM) and artificial neural network (ANN) are
the common modeling methodologies used in the extraction of
pigments from plants materials for their better industrial applica-
tions (Sinha et al., 2012b, 2013). In general, the extraction with
microwaves offers many advantages such as the reaction time and
energy input are reduced, less solvent consumption and protection
to thermolabile compounds.
6.4. Carbon dioxide extraction
Supercritical carbon dioxide extraction is one of the environ-
mental friendly extraction methods. In this type of extraction, the
pressurized CO2 is pumped into the chamber filled with the plant
material. The pressurized CO2 posses liquid like properties, while
being in gases state. By this technique a number of natural agents
with potent antimicrobial properties have been extracted. The main
advantages offered by this technique are the ease of recovery of the
solute and the recycling of the solvent by the simple manipulation
of the temperature or pressure (Lang and Wai, 2001). Supercritical
carbon dioxide can also be used as medium for dye application
without generating aqueous effluents; this new method has many
advantages, such as no waste water, no auxiliaries, high dyeing rate
and good levelling results (Hou et al., 2010; Long et al., 2013).
7. Some prominent functions imparted to the textiles
In present scenario, the lifestyle of people has greatly improved in
comparison with past decades. Consequently, there is a greater de-
mand in the market place for functional finishes on textiles. Con-
sumers have become extremely concerned about health and hygiene,
provoking researchers to explore new natural agents which are safer
than synthetic counterparts for functional finishing of textiles. Some
of the prominent properties which have been obtained on textiles in
recent years using plant products are discussed below.
7.1. Insect repellent property
Insect repellent textiles are a part of protective textiles which
help in protection from the insects that are prone to cause damage
in some or the other manner. These textiles act as a barrier and
protect the human beings from the bites of mosquitoes and other
insects, thereby promising safety from the diseases like malaria,
dengue fever (DF), Nile fever, dengue hemorrhagic fever (DHF),
chicken gunia and filariasis (Sumithra and Raja, 2012). In addition
to health concerns, insect repellents may also prevent valuable loss
of textile products, including carpets, garments, upholstered
10 S. Islam et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 57 (2013) 2e18
furniture, blankets, and priceless heirlooms by impeding the insect
attacks on these textiles. To impart insect-repellent functionality to
textile substrates, the use of insect repellents that are safe, pleasant
to use and environment friendly are nowadays gaining popularity
among the consumers. For the very purpose, interest in natural
products, particularly on plant-based agents is growing rapidly.
Generally, as natural products plants-based repellents are
perceived as safer in comparison to the long-established synthetic
counter materials. However, this assertion cannot be made with
100% certainty as toxicological studies on these agents have been
very limited; these have been used for centuries in the form of
crude fumigants where plants were burnt to drive away nuisance
mosquitoes and later as oil formulations applied to the skin or
clothes (Maia and Moore, 2011).
Recently, it has been suggested that pyrethrum may be a po-
tential alternative candidate for the impregnation of mosquito nets
and textiles in areas where resistance to pyrethroids has become
problematic (Duchon et al., 2009). Pyrethrum is derived from the
dried flowers of Chrysanthemum Cinerariaefolium, it shows insec-
ticidal activity by causing prolonged depolarization of the insects’
presynaptic-nerve sodium channels. Likewise, in recent years,
various essential oils from aromatic crops have been reported as
novel mosquito repellents (Maia and Moore, 2011). The main
disadvantage with plant based repellents is that some of their
active ingredients tend to be volatile, so although they are effective
repellents for a short period after application, they rapidly evapo-
rate leaving the user unprotected. To overcome this limitation,
microencapsulation technology has been introduced to the textile
industry. In a recent study, Specos et al. (2010) has prepared mi-
crocapsules containing citronella essential oil for application to
cotton textiles. They reported that such fabrics had a higher and
longer lasting protection from insects (higher than 90% for three
weeks) compared to fabrics which were sprayed with an ethanol
solution of the essential oil.
The technological advancements in the field have also lead to
the use of cyclodextrins and their derivatives because of their in-
clusion forming ability with variety of insecticides (Abdel-Mohdy
et al., 2008). Complex forming ability of cyclodextrin with natu-
rally occurring insecticides produced from plants is a new concept
to develop insect-repellent textiles. Hebeish et al. (2008) has
investigated the complex formation between b-cyclodextrin and
limonene, a naturally occurring insecticide present in citrus and
other fruits for the development of durable insect repellent cotton
fabrics. A high insect-repellent activity was retained by the limo-
nene treated cotton fabrics.
Moreover, naturally occurring quinone, flavonoid and indigoid
rich compounds from different plant extracts such as madder,
walnut, chestnut, logwood and indigoid have shown promising
results to obstruct the growth of many insects that cause serious
destruction of wool made textiles (Park et al., 2005). Kato et al.
(2004) has also studied damage to wool fabrics dyed with
different natural and chemical dyestuffs by the larvae of varied
carpet beetle, Anthrenus verbasci. They observed that most of the
natural dyestuffs used in their study posses insect repellent activity.
In future, there is need of more research particularly on the iden-
tification and toxicological studies of active ingredients from plants
before these can be recommended for development of eco-friendly
insect repellent textiles. If imperative toxicological testing of plant
derived repellents is carried out, these could provide a viable
alternative to toxic synthetic agents.
7.2. Deodorizing and aroma property
In recent years, many products from plants are becoming pop-
ular for discharging of foul smells, which are generated by factories
and other commercial activities. In fact, deodorizing has become an
entrenched social need .On the account of this fact, textile sub-
strates particularly cotton, silk and wool have been incorporated
with various natural agents from different plant extracts such as
Gardenia, coffee sludge, coffee pod and pomegranate. The resultant
fabrics showed quite high deodorizing properties .It has been re-
ported to be about 99% in case of pomegranate treated fabrics
(Hwang et al., 2008). Lee et al. (2008) reported high deodorizing
properties of cotton fabrics after treatment with Amur cork tree,
Dryopteris crassirhizoma, Chrysanthemum boreale and Artemisia
extracts. More recently, different biopolymers such as Aloe vera, tea
tree oil, neem oil have been investigated for their odor-absorbing
properties, for their application in wound dressings (Lee et al.,
2009). More recently, cyclodextrin is being studied for the
removal of odor compounds present in human sweet by
complexation reaction (Buschmann et al., 2001). The cross-linking
of cotton fabric with rosemary, jasmine, lavender and vanillin
perfumes by polycarboxylic acids such as citric acid were retained
by such fabrics for longer durations.
To improve the effectiveness and the durability of the fragrances
on the textiles, microencapsulation technology has delivered
promising results. Using this technology, many companies have
manufactured new fabrics with natural aroma of herbal products
retained upto many wash cycles (Nelson, 2002).
7.3. UV-protection property
Ultraviolet protection offered by the textiles is another prop-
erty that has been the subject of considerable research in recent
years. Lifestyle changes, such as over exposure to solar UV radi-
ations have been identified as the cause of an increase in the
incidence of skin problems such as sunburns, premature ageing,
allergies and skin cancers (Fig. 3). This has necessitated the
development of UV protective clothing. The blocking properties of
textiles have been shown to depend upon many factors such as
fibre type, fabric construction and nature of finishing chemicals. In
this regard, many diverse naturally occurring products have been
utilized for the application onto the textile surfaces. Sun and Tang
(2011) has reported first application of extract of honeysuckle in
textile industry. Honeysuckle is actually dried flower bud of
Lonicera japonica, rich in chlorogenic acid. It was applied to the
wool fabrics in order to study its UV protection property. The
results demonstrated that the extract of honeysuckle can provide
very high UV blocking properties when applied on the textiles.
Likewise, other natural products of plant origin are considered as
a primary tool in shielding UV rays, being environment friendly
are increasingly finding their way into the textile industry (Feng
et al., 2007). Wang et al. (2009) has studied the UV protection
of silk fabrics using vegetable dye extracted from Flos sophorae.
The extract showed quite high UV blocking activity after appli-
cation on the fabric. Recently, in a study, Grifoni et al. (2009)
investigated the UV protection properties of flax and hemp fab-
rics after treatment with some natural dyes. The natural dyes
proved quite effective in order to confer UV protection properties.
Kim (2006) and Mongkholrattanasit et al. (2011) are among the
researcher who have investigated the UV blocking property of
cotton and silk fabrics after application of green tea and euca-
lyptus leaf extracts respectively. In this context, both the authors
observed quite high UV protection properties imparted by the
extracts. Furthermore, they suggested that these natural products
have the potential to be used in high value textile applications.
Nowadays, more diverse natural products such as cyclodextrins
are increasingly being researched to impart enhanced UV
protection and other novel functions to the textiles (Ibrahim
et al., 2010).
 S. Islam et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 57 (2013) 2e18
Fig. 3. Schematic representation of UV protection offered by natural agents derived from plants.
7.4. Flame retardant property
Flame retardants are emerging as novel agents, are used to
prevent the property and personal loses caused by fire. These
agents are found in textiles of various uses. Currently, flame retar-
dant textiles are increasingly researched all around the globe. This
fact is evident by a number of review articles which have been
published by several researchers (Horrocks et al., 2005; Zhang and
Horrocks, 2003). In present scenario, natural product particularly
cyclodextrin have been widely used in flame retardant textiles
(Huang et al., 2001). These natural polymers act as a physical bar-
rier to limit the heat, fuel and oxygen transfer between the flame
and the textile substrate in an ecofriendly manner.
7.5. Antibacterial and antifungal property
Besides the above mentioned beneficial aspects, extensive
research has been carried out to exploit biologically active com-
pounds from plants for antimicrobial activities. The most
commonly occurring compounds from plants with antimicrobial
properties, include phenolics and polyphenols (simple phenols,
phenolic acids, quinones, flavonoids, tannins and coumarins), ter-
penoids, essential oils, alkaloids, lectins, polypeptides and poly-
acetylenes (Simoncic and Tomsic, 2010).
7.6. Industrial plants as sustainable source of biologically active
agents for textiles
Textiles are the potential vectors for pathogenic microorgan-
isms. Prolonged contact with the textile substrates has continu-
ously increased microbial infections. Owing to this, there has been
enormous use of oxidizing agents, halogens, metal based com-
plexes, phenolic compounds and quaternary ammonium salts to
prevent microbial growth on textiles (Gao and Cranston, 2008). Due
to non-biodegradability, synthetic agents have lethal effects on all
forms of life. To minimize the environmental risks associated with
the application of synthetic antimicrobial agents, there has been a
great demand towards natural bioactive agents in recent years for
the development of ecofriendly, antimicrobial textiles (Joshi et al.,
2009).
Over the last half-century, industrial plants, particularly dye
yielding have increasingly demonstrated the potential in the pre-
vention of microbial infections (Das et al., 2011). This idea has lead
to the fact that antimicrobial clothing might be developed from
11
these natural products. Owing to this fact, a great deal of scientific
effort has been focused on discovering antimicrobial properties of
some plant products for their application onto the textile sub-
strates. Globally, considerable research work is currently under-
way on textile coloration with natural dyes for development of
antimicrobial textiles (Gupta et al., 2004). Recently, Singh et al.
(2005) studied the antimicrobial activity of four natural color-
ants against common infection causing pathogens such as
Escherichia coli, Bacillus subtilis, Klebsiella pneumonia, Proteus vul-
garis and Pseudomonas aeruginosa. They observed that antimicro-
bial activity of the natural dye varies when the dye is present in
solution phase and when adhered to the textile substrate. The
mechanism proposed was based on the modification of functional
groups responsible for the activity in the dye molecules by inter-
action with the fibres. Calis et al. (2009) also studied antimicrobial
effect of R. tinctorum, Allium cepa, Punica granatum L and Mentha
sp. extracts on a wide range of pathogenic bacteria. They found
that only P. granatum extract was effective against most of the
bacteria. All of these natural agents showed high inhibition to-
wards the gram-positive bacteria than gram-negative bacteria.
Furthermore, Han and Yang (2005) determined the relationship
between bactericidal inhibition rate and curcumin concentration
on wool fibres as substrates. The antimicrobial activity of the dyed
wool fabric against both gram-negative bacteria; E. coli as well as
gram-positive bacteria; Staphylococcus aureus was found to be
dependent on curcumin concentration only up to 0.2% (w/v). The
reason for this could be due to the lack of proper diffusion as the
finishing agent becomes sticky and gummy at higher concentra-
tions (Prusty et al., 2010). Son et al. (2007) reported the application
of natural cationic colorant barberine on nylon 66 fibres. The
resulted nylon fibres showed almost 99.9% bacterial reduction
against S. aureus (ATCC 6538) and Klebsiella pneumoniae (ATCC
4352) strains. Berberine has been shown to possess a quaternary
ammonium salt like structure, with a positive charge on nitrogen
atom that might be responsible for its antimicrobial activity (Kim
and Son, 2005).
8. Natural products reducing the use of toxic metal salts in
textile applications
Metallic salt mordants are commonly known to be responsible
for the formation of co-ordinate bonds with the functional groups
of dye molecules and the textile substrate (Khan et al., 2012). It has
been observed that mordants may increase dye exhaustion, shade
12 S. Islam et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 57 (2013) 2e18
variation, fastness and other fibre properties (Bhuyan and Saikia,
2005; Samanta and Agarwal, 2009).
The use of metallic mordants introduces an additional role in the
functional treatment of textile materials. On the other hand, it
might have some toxic effects (Burkinshaw and Kumar, 2009). In
this context, natural mordants are receiving renewed attention as
pre-treatment methods in textile applications for improving dye
exhaustion and fixation as well as the colorimetric, fastness and
antimicrobial properties. Recently many environmental friendly
mordants from industrial plants, namely Eurya acuminate DC var
euprista Karth (Vankar et al., 2008b), Catechu an extract from the
heart wood of Acacia catechu (Mansour and Heffernan, 2011),
lemon juice (Singh and Purohit, 2012), Tamarindus indica L. seed
coat tannin (Prabhu and Teli, 2011), Emblica officinalis G. dried fruit
tannin (Prabhu et al., 2011), Terminalia chebula powder (Samanta
et al., 2011), Rumex hymenosepolus root (Aminoddin, 2010) and
tannic acid (Burkinshaw and Kumar, 2009) have reduced the risk of
environmental pollution from toxic metal salts mordants, besides
some of these have also imparted antimicrobial property to the
fabrics. More recently, Guesmi et al. (2013b) has reported the first
application of chlorophyll-a as an ecofriendly bio-mordant for wool
fabrics. Results from the study indicate that there is an increase in
the color strength values with the increase in the concentration of
bio-mordant. Therefore it can be predicted that plant-derived
mordants may be a viable alternative to toxic metal salts used in
textiles in the near future.
9. Application of natural polyphenols from plants
Natural polyphenols also called tannins are obtained from
various parts of the plants such as bark, wood, fruit, fruit rind,
leaves, roots and plant galls (Surveswaran et al., 2007). They play
very important role in textile finishing, preservation of leather and
are widely reported for antimicrobial property (Burkinshaw and
Kumar, 2009; Prabhu and Teli, 2011). Tannins are strong antioxi-
dants protecting against oxidative tissue damage (Shi et al., 2003),
protect animal cells against UV radiation induced damage (Carini
et al., 2000) and have also been found effective in urinary tract
infections (Foo et al., 2000). Recently, many tannin based natural
dyes have demonstrated excellent antimicrobial properties in so-
lution form and after application on textile fibres (Gupta et al.,
2004; Gupta and Laha, 2007).
Interestingly, the mechanism of antimicrobial activity has not
been clearly elucidated yet. How the environment around the
active site of polyphenolic compounds might affect their antimi-
crobial activity has been described in a review (Schofield et al.,
2001), where it has been shown that their biological activity de-
pends upon the molar content and spatial configuration of o-
phenolic hydroxylic groups. Further information about the poly-
phenol/fibre interaction mechanism may anticipate their role in
development of bioactive textiles in the near future. Currently, the
main drawback that complicates tannin applications in textiles fi-
bres is their complexity and diversity of structures, presence of
mixtures of phenolic compounds and lack of in-depth toxicological
studies. This is the real challenge for the development of novel
bioactive textiles. Some of the tannins with potent biological ac-
tivity are shown in Fig. 4.
10. Application of herbal extracts and oils
Considering the growing role of natural products in textiles,
many studies have been conducted on the application of diverse
plant extracts and other herbal oils as well. In a very recent study
Thilagavathi and Kannaian (2010) applied Geranium (Pelargonium
graveolens L.) leaves extract on cotton fabrics to develop
antimicrobial and aroma finished cotton clothing. The resultant
cotton fabric showed high antimicrobial efficacy against gram
positive S. aureus than gram negative E. coli bacteria.
Sathianarayanan et al. (2011) reported antibacterial finish for cot-
ton using methanolic extract of Thymus serphyllum seeds. Likewise,
Fadhel et al. (2012) studied antibacterial effects of two Tunisian
Eucalyptus leaf extracts, namely Eucalyptus odorata and Eucalyptus
cinerea on wool and cotton fabrics. It was observed that among the
two extracts only E. odorata extract displays antibacterial activity
after treatment on the fabrics. The other bioactive agents that have
portrayed promising results include Aloe vera (Jothi, 2009), aza-
dirachtin (neem leaf extract) (Vaideki et al., 2008), Ocimum sanctum
leaves extract (Rajendran et al., 2013), prickly chaff flower
(Achyranthus aspera), tulsi leaves (Ocimum basilicum) and pome-
granate rind (P. granatum) extracts (Thilagavathi et al., 2005;
Sathianarayanan et al., 2010). In addition, many herbal oils
including neem oil (Ibrahim et al., 2011), clove, tulsi and karanga
(Joshi et al., 2009) and more recently thyme essential oils
(Walentowska and Foksowicz-Flaczyk, 2013) are reported in the
literature to impart antibacterial properties on natural textiles.
Furthermore to overcome the limitation of wash durability of
finishes on the textile fibres, a variety of novel approaches are being
employed, including crosslinking of agent with resin, embedding
liquid bioactive components such as essential oils into a solegel
matrix, and microencapsulation using phase separation/coacerva-
tion followed by the application of microencapsules using a pade
dryecure method (Simoncic and Tomsic, 2010). To move forward,
there is a need to keep on studying and testing more and more
advanced technologies in the future for the extraction and appli-
cation of bioactive agents on the textiles.
11. Recent advancements e new insight into green
nanotechnology
Biological or natural product based agents exploited today for
textile applications may have problem of poor adhesion, complex
nature and durability on textiles. To overcome these limitations, the
incorporation of nanotechnology into textile industry is a new
concept, which has been introduced in recent years. Numerous
studies have been conducted on distinct varieties of nanoparticles
for their use in various textile modifications (Dastjerdi and
Montazer, 2010; Montazer and Pakdel, 2011). As a consequence,
new products have been introduced to consumers, employing the
novel features of nanoparticles.
Chemical approaches are the most popular methods for the
production of nanoparticles. However, some chemical methods
cannot avoid the use of toxic chemicals in the synthesis protocol.
These are quite expensive and potentially dangerous to the envi-
ronment. Therefore, biological methods using natural products
such as yeast, fungi, bacteria and plant extracts have been sug-
gested as possible ecofriendly alternatives for the control synthesis
of biocompatible nanoparticles. In fact, nanoparticles synthesized
through greener routes are considered as much safer for human
use. Moreover, these have emerged up as novel antimicrobial
agents for their versatile application onto the textile substrates.
Hence, these are probably more likely to be realizable in the short
term to develop functional textiles commercially on a large scale.
11.1. Application of nanoparticles in textiles
In recent years, plant products have been exploited as an ideal
sustainable source for green synthesis of nanoparticles with
potent antimicrobial properties. Several studies have widely
reported different parts of plants to be responsible for nano-
particles synthesis such as bark (Sathishkumar et al., 2009), tuber
 S. Islam et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 57 (2013) 2e18 13

OH OH
OH
HO OH OH
HO O
OH
O O O
HO O
O OH
O O
HO O HO O O
O OH

Gallic acid OH
HO
OH
HO OH
OH
O
HO O
Hydrolysable tannin

HO OH

O OH
O

Ellagic acid

OH OH
OH
OH
HO O
HO O
OH
OH OH
OH OH

OH HO O

OH
Epicatechin HO
n
OH
OH OH

OH HO O

HO O OH
OH

OH

OH

Condensed tannin
Catechin
Fig. 4. Some representative structures of plant tannins with potential antimicrobial activity.

(Sathishkumar et al., 2010), leaf extract (Song et al., 2009), peels
(Bankar et al., 2010), and callus (Nabikhan et al., 2010). Iravani
(2011) has studied the plant and plant-derived materials for
biosynthesis of metal nanoparticles. He observed that metal
nanoparticles produced by plants are more stable in comparison
with those produced by other organisms. The mechanism proposed
for biosynthesis of nanoparticles was based on the fact that bio-
molecules in plants such as proteins/enzymes, amino acids, poly-
saccharides, alkaloids, alcoholic compounds, and vitamins could be
involved in bioreduction, formation and stabilization of metal
nanoparticles. Such type of nanoparticles has increased the interest
of researchers working in the field of polymers and textiles in
the discovery of novel textiles. Recently, Sathishkumar et al.
(2010) immobilized silver nanoparticles synthesized by using Cur-
cuma longa tubular extract and powder on cotton fabrics to develop
antibacterial cotton cloth with minimum bactericidal
concentration (MBC) against E. coli BL 21strain (50 mg/L). Vankar
and Shukla (2012) prepared silver nanoparticles by using aqueous
extract of lemon leaves (Citrus limon) as reducing agents, and
treated the synthesized nanoparticles on cotton and silk fabrics for
antifungal activity. Assessment of antifungal activity was done by
Agar diffusion method against Fusarium oxysporum and Alternaria
brassicicola. The cotton and silk fabrics showed high durable anti-
fungal activity. Likewise, Ravindra et al. (2010) developed silver
nanoparticles (AgNPs) using natural extracts, of Eucalyptus cit-
riodora and Ficus bengalensis and studied antimicrobial efficiency of
cotton fibres loaded with these nanoparticles. The loaded cotton
fibres displayed excellent antibacterial activity against gram-
negative E. coli. Shastri et al. (2012) examined nanosilver-coated
socks fabrics for foot pathogens by using neem (Azadirachta ind-
ica) leaves. Recently natural extracts of E. citriodora and F. benga-
lensis has been studied for the biosynthesis of silver nanoparticles
14 S. Islam et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 57 (2013) 2e18

followed by their application onto the cotton fabrics. The antibac-
terial activity of cotton fibres loaded with silver nanoparticles was
evaluated against gram-negative E. coli bacteria. The results suggest
excellent antibacterial activity by the incorporation of 2% leaf ex-
tracts onto the cotton fibres. These fibres have retained the anti-
bacterial activity even after several washings indicating their usage
in medical and infection prevention applications (Ravindra et al.,
2010).
A large number of carbohydrate polymers also posses reducing
and stabilizing properties for the green synthesis of metal nano-
particles (Abdel-Mohsen et al., 2012; Hebeish et al., 2011). Nano-
ZnO composites have been synthesized by reacting zinc nitrate
with sodium hydroxide in the presence of soluble starch as a sta-
bilizer. It was observed that Zinc oxide-soluble starch nano-
composites (nano-ZnO) impregnated onto cotton fabrics displays
antibacterial activity against S. aureus and K. pneumoniae bacterial
strains and UV-protection functions (Vigneshwaran et al., 2006). A
novel copolymer precursor b-cyclodextrin grafted with polyacrylic
acid has been reported to act as reductant and stabilizer in the
preparation of silver nanoparticles. These silver nanoparticle
colloidal solution was applied to cotton fabric. The resultant fabric
showed excellent and high wash durable antibacterial properties
(Hebeish et al., 2011).
Therefore, such a novel approach being cost effective, environ-
mental friendly and highly toxic against different multi drug
resistant microbial pathogens found on textiles can be used for
large scale development of value-added functional textiles in the
near future.
12. Market opportunities for plant-derived natural products
The potential of plant-derived agents in textile applications is
huge, compared to synthetic counterparts, in terms of significant
cost reduction and environmental friendliness. Surveys show con-
sumer demand is driving research into ways to replace synthetic
products with agents based on renewable raw materials, particu-
larly in the field of textiles (Dawson, 2012). Over the recent years,
with the increasing consciousness of environmental protection
around the globe, no supplier can now ignore the apparent needs of
a relatively new, but rapidly expanding, market segment of ‘natural
and ethical consumers’ (Dawson, 2008). Today, in the 21st century,
the use of plant-derived materials in textile applications needs to
fulfil the technical, economic, ecological and requirements for their
practical implementation in industry. Producing natural products
from plants may connect the existing production pipelines for
agriculture sector and the textile production, marketing, and

CULTIVATION BYPRODUCTS
COTTON CORN STALKS

JUTE WHEAT STRAW

BANANA LEAVES
HEMP FIBRE
RAMIE SUGARCANE STRAW

FLAX HOP STEM

THREAD

ANTIMICROBIAL AGENTS
e.g., tannins, alkaloids, quinones FABRIC
PLANT DERIVED THICKENERS
UV PROTECTIVE AGENTS
e.g., Guar gum, Starch, Xanthan gum
e.g., Honeysuckle, Flose sophorae

INSECT REPELLANTS BIOMORDANTS

e.g., Pyrethrum, Citronella essential oil FINISHING e.g., Acacia catechu, Eurya acuminata

FLAME RETARDANTS NATURAL DYES

e.g., Cyclodextrins BY CULTIVATION FROM BYPRODUCTS

DEODORIZING AND AROMA e.g., Indigo, e.g., grape pomace,

FINISHING AGENTS Madder, Weld teak leaves, onion
peels, pressed berries
e.g., Aloe vera, Lavender, Jasmine

FINISHED FABRIC

CLOTHINGS HOME TEXTILES TECHNICAL TEXTILES

DISTRIBUTION TEXTILE
AND RETAIL SERVICES

PRIVATE
COMMERCIAL USE
CONSUMPTION

Fig. 5. Use of natural agents derived from industrial plants in textile supply chain.
 S. Islam et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 57 (2013) 2e18
distribution pipeline (Fig. 5). The introduction of organic cotton by
mainstream fashion designers and clothing companies for use into
jeans and sportswear, and global retail sales of organic cotton
clothing and home textiles has increased rapidly over the last two
or three decades, and is expected to expand even more (www.
naturalfibres2009.org/en/index.html, last accessed, 14 March
2013). Attempts are also being made to use plant derived dyes and
pigments which can offer not only a rich and varied source of
dyestuff, but also the possibility of an income generation to the
millions of small-scale farmers and low-wage workers through
their sustainable harvesting and sale. They could similarly be ob-
tained from by-products and wastes from food and other industries
as previously discussed in this review. More detailed studies and
scientific investigations, particularly the use modern techniques
should allow them to compete well with the synthetic and other
commercially available products in textile industry.
13. Concluding remarks and future prospect
Undoubtedly, the exploration of natural products on textiles is a
very promising prospect for future textile industry. The use of
plant-based natural products have resulted in textiles which con-
sumers desire without compromising the issues related to safety,
human health and environment. These agents have imparted
interesting novel properties to textiles. The discovery of novel
techniques such microencapsulation and sol gel methods have
lowered the hurdles associated with their application onto the
textiles. In addition, the feasibility of plant derived agents to syn-
thesize nanoparticles for textiles applications have opened new
windows for scientists to develop more efficient and highly value-
added textiles. However, a number of technological concerns exist
that require further research before application of these products
can reach full-scale implementation. Specifically, future research
efforts should focus on advanced technologies to increase their
yields, lower production costs and improve the durability of
claimed functionalities. Moreover, there is need for systematic in-
depth studies related to toxicological scrutiny in order to better
evaluate plant derived compounds and develop new products that
will offer good consumer safety. By achieving this goal, plant-based
natural agents suggest a promising future for this field of study.
Acknowledgement
Financial support provided by University Grants Commission,
Govt. of India; through Central University Ph.D. Students Fellow-
ship (Shahid-ul-Islam) and BSR Research Fellowship in Sciences for
Meritorious Students (Mohammad Shahid) is highly acknowledged.
References
Abbas, M.A.M., 2004. Printing of Wool Fabrics with Anionic Dyes Using New
Thickeners. Ph.D. thesis. Helwan University, Cairo, Egypt.
Abdel-Mohdy, F.A., Fouda, M.M.G., Rehan, M.F., Aly, A.S., 2008. Repellency of
controlled-release treated cotton fabrics based on cypermethrin and pralleth-
rin. Carbohydr. Polym. 73, 92e97.
Abdel-Mohsen, A.M., Hrdina, R., Burgert, L., Abdel-Rahman, R.M., Hasova, M.,
Smejkalova, D., Kolar, M., Pekar, M., Aly, A.S., 2012. Antibacterial activity and cell
viability of hyaluronan fiber with silver nanoparticles. Carbohydr. Polym. 92,
1177e1187.
Abo-Shosha, M.H., Ibrahim, N.A., Allam, E., El-Zairy, M.R., El-Zairy, E., 2006. Syn-
thesis and characterization of polyacrylic acid/dexy 85 and polyacrylic acid/gum
Arabic adducts. J. Appl. Polym. Sci. 101, 4290e4300.
Abo-Shosha, M.H., Ibrahim, N.A., Allam, E., El-Zairy, E., 2008. Preparation and
characterization of polyacrylic acid/karaya gum and polyacrylic acid/tamarind
seed gum adducts and utilization in textile printing. Carbohydr. Polym. 74,
241e249.
Abramovitech, R.A., 1991. Application of microwave energy in organic chemistry, a
review. Org. Prep. Proced. Int. 23, 683e711.
15
Ahlstrom, L., Eskilsson, C.S., Bjorklund, E., 2005. Determination of banned azo dyes
in consumer goods. Trend. Anal. Chem. 24, 49e56.
Akhtar, R., Negi, J.S., Naithani, 2012. Determination of dyeing property of some
medicinally important plant species of Uttarakhand Himalayas. Indian J. Trad.
Knowl. 11, 528e531.
Ali, N.F., El-Mohamedy, R.S.R., 2011. Eco-friendly and protective natural dye from red
prickly pear (Opuntia lasiacantha Pfeiffer) plant. J. Saudi Chem. Soc. 15, 257e261.
Ali, S., Hussain, T., Nawaz, R., 2009. Optimization of alkaline extraction of natural
dye from henna leaves and its dyeing on cotton by exhaust method. J. Clean.
Prod. 17, 61e66.
Aminoddin, H., 2010. Functional dyeing of wool with natural dye extracted from
berberis vulgaris wood and Rumex hymenosepolus root as biomordant. Iran. J.
Chem. Chem. Eng. 29, 55e60.
Anand, S., 2008. Designer natural fibre geotextiles e a new concept. Indian J. Fibre
Text. Res. 33, 339e344.
Angelini, L.G., Bertoli, A., Rolandelli, S., Pistelli, L., 2003. Agronomic potential of
Reseda luteola L. as new crop for natural dyes in textiles production. Ind. Crop
Prod. 17, 199e207.
Angelini, L.G., Pistelli, L., Belloni, P., Bertoli, A., Panconesi, S., 1997. Rubia tinctorum a
source of natural dyes: agronomic evaluation, quantitative analysis of alizarin
and industrial assays. Ind. Crop Prod. 6, 303e311.
Baliarsingh, S., Panda, A.K., Jena, J., Das, T., Das, N.B., 2012. Exploring sustainable
technique on natural dye extraction from native plants for textile: identification
of colourants, colourimetric analysis of dyed yarns and their antimicrobial
evaluation. J. Clean. Prod. 37, 257e264.
Bankar, A., Joshi, B., Kumar, A.R., Zinjarde, S., 2010. Banana peel extract mediated novel
route for the synthesis of silver nanoparticles. Colloid Surface. A 368, 58e63.
Barani, H., Broumand, M.N., Haji, A., Kazemipur, M., 2012. Optimization of dyeing
wool fibers procedure with Isatis tinctoria by response surface methodology.
J. Nat. Fiber. 9, 73e86.
Basu, G., De, S.S., Samanta, A.K., 2009. Effect of bio-friendly conditioning agents on
jute fibre spinning. Ind. Crop Prod. 29, 281e288.
Bahtiyari, M.I., Duran, K., 2013. A study on the usability of ultrasound in scouring of
raw wool. J. Clean. Prod. 41, 283e290.
Bechtold, T., Mahmud-Ali, A., Mussak, R.A.M., 2007a. Reuse of ash-tree (Fraxinus
excelsior L.) bark as natural dyes for textile dyeing: process conditions and
process stability. Color. Technol. 123, 271e279.
Bechtold, T., Mahmud-Ali, A., Mussak, R., 2007b. Anthocyanin dyes extracted from
grape pomace for the purpose of textile dyeing. J. Sci. Food Agric. 87, 2589e
2595.
Bechtold, T., Mussak, R., Mahmud-Ali, A., Ganglberger, E., Geissler, S., 2006.
Extraction of natural dyes for textile dyeing from coloured plant wastes
released from the food and beverage industry. J. Sci. Food Agric. 86, 233e242.
Bhatti, I.A., Adeel, S., Jamal, A., Safdar, M., Abbas, M., 2010. Influence of gamma
radiation on the colour strength and fastness properties of fabric using turmeric
(Curcuma longa L.) as natural dye. Radiat. Phys. Chem. 79, 622e625.
Bhuyan, R., Saikia, C.N., 2005. Isolation of colour components from native dye-
bearing plants in northeastern India. Bioresour. Technol. 96, 363e372.
Bhuyan, R., Saikia, D.C., Saikia, C.N., 2002. Isolation of colour component from the
roots of Morinda angustifolia Roxb. and evaluation of its dyeing characteristics.
Indian J. Fibre Text. Res. 27, 429e433.
Bulut, M.O., Akar, E., 2012. Ecological dyeing with some plant pulps on woolen yarn
and cationized cotton fabric. J. Clean. Prod. 32, 1e9.
Burkinshaw, S.M., Kumar, N., 2009. The mordant dyeing of wool using tannic acid
and FeSO4, part 1: initial findings. Dyes Pigm. 80, 53e60.
Buschmann, H.J., Knittel, D., Schollmeyer, E., 2001. New textile applications of cy-
clodextrins. J. Incl. Phenom. Macrocycl. Chem. 40, 169e172.
Calis, A., Celik, G.Y., Katircioglu, H., 2009. Antimicrobial effect of natural dyes on
some pathogenic bacteria. Afr. J. Biotechnol. 8, 291e293.
Campeol, E., Angelini, L.G., Tozzi, S., Bertolacci, M., 2006. Seasonal variation of in-
digo precursors in Isatis tinctoria L. and Polygonum tinctorium Ait. as affected by
water deficit. Environ. Exp. Bot. 58, 223e233.
Carini, M., Aldini, G., Bombardelli, E., Morazzoni, P., Facino, R.M., 2000. UVB-induced
hemolysis of rat erythrocytes: protective effect of procyanidins from grape
seeds. Life Sci. 67, 1799e1814.
Chairat, M., Bremner, J.B., Chantrapromma, K., 2007. Dyeing of cotton and silk yarn
with the extracted dye from the fruit hulls of mangosteen, Garcinia mangostana
Linn. Fiber. Polym. 8, 613e619.
Chapagain, A.K., Hoekstra, A.Y., Savenije, H.H.G., Gautam, R., 2006. The water
footprint of cotton consumption: an assessment of the impact of worldwide
consumption of cotton products on the water resources in the cotton producing
countries. Ecol. Econ. 60, 186e203.
Chen, W., Li, P., Wang, X., 2010. Chemical stability of yellow pigment extracted from
the flower bud of Sophora japonica L. (Huaimi). Int. J. Food Sci. Technol. 45,
1666e1672.
Collier, B.J., Collier, J.R., Agarwal, P., Lo, Y., 1992. Extraction and evaluation of fibers
from sugar cane. Text. Res. J. 62, 714e748.
Costa, S.M., Mazzola, P.G., Silva, J.C.A.R., Pahl, R., Pessoa Jr., A., Costa, S.A., 2013. Use
of sugar cane straw as a source of cellulose for textile fiber production. Ind. Crop
Prod. 42, 189e194.
Das, P.K., Mondal, A.K., Parui, S.M., 2011. Antibacterial activity of some selected dye
yielding plants in Eastern India. Afr. J. Plant Sci. 5, 510e520.
Dastjerdi, R., Montazer, M., 2010. A review on the application of inorganic nano-
structured materials in the modification of textiles: focus on anti-microbial
properties. Colloid Surface. B 79, 5e18.
16 S. Islam et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 57 (2013) 2e18
Dawson, T.L., 2008. It must be green: meeting society’s environmental concerns.
Color. Technol. 124, 67e78.
Dawson, T., 2012. Progress towards a greener textile industry. Color. Technol. 128, 1e8.
Dev, V.R.G., Venugopal, J., Sudha, S., Deepika, G., Ramakrishna, S., 2009. Dyeing and
antimicrobial characteristics of chitosan treated wool fabrics with henna dye.
Carbohydr. Polym. 75, 646e650.
Deveoglu, O., Torgan, E., Karadag, R., 2012. High-performance liquid chromatog-
raphy of some natural dyes: analysis of plant extracts and dyed textiles. Color.
Technol. 128, 133e138.
Duchon, S., Bonnet, J., Marcombe, S., Zaim, M., Corbel, V., 2009. Pyrethrum: a
mixture of natural pyrethrins has potential for malaria vector control. J. Med.
Entomol. 46, 516e522.
Erkan, G.K., Sengul, K., Kaya, S., 2011. Dyeing of white and indigo dyed cotton fabrics
with Mimosa tenuiflora extract. J. Saudi Chem. Soc.. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/
j.jscs.2011.06.001.
Fadhel, B.B., Aissi, A., Ladhari, N., Deghrigue, M., Chemli, R., Joly, J.P., 2012. Anti-
bacterial effects of two Tunisian eucalyptus leaf extracts on wool and cotton
fabrics. J. Text. 103, 1197e1204.
Feng, X.X., Zhang, L.L., Chen, J.Y., Zhang, J.C., 2007. New insights into solar UV-
protective properties of natural dye. J. Clean. Prod. 15, 366e372.
Fijan, R., Basile, M., Lapasin, R., Sostar-Turk, S., 2009a. Rheological properties of
printing pastes and their influence on quality-determining parameters in
screen printing of cotton with reactive dyes using recycled polysaccharide
thickeners. Carbohydr. Polym. 78, 25e35.

Fijan, R., Basile, M., Sostar-Turk, S., Zagar, E., Zigon, M., Lapasin, R., 2009b. A study of
rheological and molecular weight properties of recycled polysaccharides used
as thickeners in textile printing. Carbohyd. Polym. 76, 8e16.
Fijan, R., Sostar-Turk, S., Lapasin, R., 2007. Rheological study of interactions between
non-ionic surfactants and polysaccharide thickeners used in textile printing.
Carbohydr. Polym. 68, 708e717.
Foo, L.Y., Lu, Y., Howell, A.B., Vorsa, N., 2000. The structure of cranberry proan-
thocyanidins which inhibit adherence of uropathogenic P-fimbriated Escher-
ichia coli in vitro. Phytochemistry 54, 173e181.
Ganglberger, E., 2009. Environmental aspects and sustainability. In: Bechtold, T.,
Mussak, R. (Eds.), Handbook of Natural Colorants. John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.,
Chichester, UK, pp. 353e366.
Gao, Y., Cranston, R., 2008. Recent advances in antimicrobial treatment of textiles.
Text. Res. J. 78, 60e72.
Ghoranneviss, M., Shahidi, S., Anvari, A., Motaghi, Z., Wiener, J., Slamborova, I., 2011.
Influence of plasma sputtering treatment on natural dyeing and antibacterial
activity of wool fabrics. Prog. Org. Coat. 70, 388e393.
Ghouila, H., Meksi, N., Haddar, W., Mhennib, M.F., Jannet, H.B., 2012. Extraction,
identification and dyeing studies of isosalipurposide, a natural chalcone dye
from Acacia cyanophylla flowers on wool. Ind. Crop Prod. 35, 31e36.
Gokhale, S.B., Tatiya, A.U., Balkiwal, S.R., Fursule, R.A., 2004. Natural dye yielding
plants in India. Nat. Prod. Rad. 3, 228e234.
Grifoni, D., Bacci, L., Zipoli, G., Albanese, L., Sabatini, F., 2011. The role of natural dyes in
the UV protection of fabrics made of vegetable fibres. Dyes Pigm. 91, 279e285.
Grifoni, D., Bacci, L., Zipoli, G., Carreras, G., Baronti, S., Sabatini, F., 2009. Laboratory
and outdoor assessment of UV protection offered by flax and hemp fabrics dyed
with natural dyes. Photochem. Photobiol. 85, 313e320.
Guesmi, A., Hamadi, N.B., Ladhari, N., Sakli, F., 2012. Dyeing properties and colour
fastness of wool dyed with indicaxanthin natural dye. Ind. Crop Prod. 37,
493e499.
Guesmi, A., Hamadi, N.B., Ladhari, N., Sakli, F., 2013a. Sonicator dyeing of modified
acrylic fabrics with indicaxanthin natural dye. Ind. Crop Prod. 42, 63e69.
Guesmi, A., Ladhari, N., Hamadi, N.B., Msaddek, M., Sakllia Faouzi, F., 2013b. First
application of chlorophyll-a as biomordant: sonicator dyeing of wool with
betanin dye. J. Clean. Prod. 39, 97e104.
Gupta, D., Khare, S.K., Laha, A., 2004. Antimicrobial properties of natural dyes
against gram-negative bacteria. Color. Technol. 120, 167e171.
Gupta, D., Laha, A., 2007. Antimicrobial activity of cotton fabric treated with Quercus
infectoria extract. Indian J. Fibre Text. Res. 32, 88e92.
Guinot, P., Gargadenneca, A., Fiscaa, P.L., Fruchierb, A., Andarya, C., Mondolot, L.,
2009. Serratula tinctoria, a source of natural dye: flavonoid pattern and histo-
localization. Ind. Crop Prod. 29, 320e325.
Han, S., Yang, Y., 2005. Antimicrobial activity of wool fabric treated with curcumin.
Dyes Pigm. 64, 157e161.
Hartl, A., Vogl, C.R., 2003. The potential use of organically grown dye plants in the
organic textile industry: experience and results of cultivation and yields of
Dyer’s Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L.), Dyer’s Knotweed (Polygonum tincto-
rium Ait.) and Weld (Reseda luteola L.). J. Sust. Agric. 23 (2), 17e39.
Hebeish, A., Fouda, M.M.G., Hamdy, I.A., EL-Sawy, S.M., Abdel-Mohdy, F.A., 2008.
Preparation of durable insect repellent cotton fabric: limonene as insecticide.
Carbohyr. Polym. 74, 268e273.
Hebeish, A., El-Shafei, A., Sharaf, S., Zaghloul, S., 2011. Novel precursors for green
synthesis and application of silver nanoparticles in the realm of cotton finish-
ing. Carbohydr. Polym. 84, 605e613.
Holme, I., 2006. Sir William Henry Perkin: a review of his life, work and legacy.
Color. Technol. 122, 235e251.
Horrocks, A.R., Kandola, B.K., Davies, P.J., Zhang, S., Padbury, S.A., 2005. Developments
in flame retardant textiles e a review. Polym. Degrad. Stab 88, 3e12.
Hou, A., Chen, B., Dai, J., Zhang, K., 2010. Using supercritical carbon dioxide as
solvent to replace water in polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fabric dyeing
procedures. J. Clean. Prod. 18, 1009e1014.
Hou, X., Chen, X., Cheng, Y., Xu, H., Chen, L., Yang, Y., 2013. Dyeing and
UV-protection properties of water extracts from orange peel. J. Clean. Prod. 52,
410e419.
Huang, L., Gerber, M., Lu, J., Tonelli, A.E., 2001. Formation of a flame retardant-
cyclodextrin inclusion compound and its application as a flame retardant for
poly (ethylene terephthalate). Polym. Degard. Stab 71, 279e284.
Hussain, H., Krohn, K., Ahmad, V.U., Miana, G.A., Green, I.R., 2007. Lapachol: an
overview. Arikov part (ii): special issue. Rev. Acc., 145e171.
Hwang, E.K., Lee, Y.H., Kim, H.D., 2008. Dyeing, fastness, and deodorizing properties
of cotton, silk, and wool fabrics dyed with Gardenia, coffee sludge, Cassia tora L.,
and pomegranate extracts. Fiber. Polym. 9, 334e340.
Ibrahim, N.A., Abo-Shosha, M.H., Allam, E., El-Zairy, M.R., El- Zairy, E., 2006. New
thickening agents for reactive printing of cellulosic fabrics. J. Appl. Polym. Sci.
101, 4430e4439.
Ibrahim, N.A., Eid, B.M., El-Zairy, W.R., 2011. Antibacterial functionalization of
reactive-cellulosic prints via inclusion of bioactive neem oil/bCD complex.
Carbohydr. Polym. 86, 1313e1319.
Ibrahim, N.A., El-Zairy, W.R., Eid, B.M., 2010. Novel approach for improving disperse
dyeing and UV-protective function of cotton-containing fabrics using MCT-b-
CD. Carbohydr. Polym. 79, 839e846.
Ibrahim, N.A., Rashad, M.M., Abo-Shosha, M.H., 2003. Polyacrylamide guar gum
adducts as a new thickener for reactive printing of wool and nylon 6. Polym.
Plast. Technol. Eng. 42, 757e777.
Iqbal, J., Bhatti, I.A., Adeel, S., 2008. Effect of UV radiation on dyeing of cotton fabric
with extracts of henna leaves. Indian J. Fibre Text. Res. 33, 157e162.
Iravani, S., 2011. Green synthesis of metal nanoparticles using plants. Green Chem.
13, 2638e2650.
Islam, S., Shahid, M., Mohammad, F., 2013. Green chemistry approaches to develop
antimicrobial textiles based on sustainable biopolymers e a review. Ind. Eng.
Chem. Res. 52, 5245e5260.
Jangwan, J.S., Dobhal, M., Sati, S.C., 2007. Dyeing of wool and cotton fibres with fruit
rind of Juglans regia as natural dyes, and standardization of ancient dyeing
procedure. Environ. Conserv. J. 8, 35e38.
Jayaramudu, J., Maity, A., Sadiku, E.R., Guduri, B.R., Rajulu, A.V., Ramana, C.V.V., Li, R.,
2011. Structure and properties of new natural cellulose fabrics from Cordia
dichotoma. Carbohydr. Polym. 86, 1623e1629.
John, P., Angelini, L.G., 2009. Indigo e agricultural aspects. In: Bechtold, T.,
Mussak, R. (Eds.), Handbook of Natural Colorants. John Wiley & Sons Ltd.,
Chichester, UK, pp. 73e104.
John, P., 2009. Indigo-extraction. In: Bechtold, T., Mussak, R. (Eds.), Handbook of
Natural Colorants. John Wiley & Sons Ltd., Chichester, UK, pp. 105e133.
John, P., Seymour, K., Macias, P.G., 2005. Production of Natural Indigo with a High
Purity. School of Plant Sciences, Reading. University of Reading, UK. (Electronic
version).
Joshi, M., Ali, S.W., Purwar, R., Rajendran, S., 2009. Ecofriendly antimicrobial fin-
ishing of textiles using bioactive agents based on natural products. Indian J.
Fibre Text. Res. 34, 295e304.
Jothi, D., 2009. Experimental study on antimicrobial activity of cotton fabric treated
with aloe gel extract from Aloe vera plant for controlling the Staphylococcus
aureus (bacterium). Afr. J. Microbiol. Res. 3, 228e232.
Kato, H., Hata, T., Tsukada, M., 2004. Potentialities of natural dyestuffs as antifeedants
against varied carpet beetle, Anthrenus verbasci. Jpn. Agr. Res. Q. 38, 241e251.
Ke, G., Yu, W., Yu, W., 2006. Color evaluation of wool fabric dyed with Rhizoma
coptidis extract. J. Appl. Polym. Sci. 101, 3376e3380.
Khan, M.I., Ahmad, A., Khan, S.A., Yusuf, M., Shahid, M., Manzoor, N., Mohammad, F.,
2011a. Assessment of antimicrobial activity of catechu and its dyed substrate.
J. Clean. Prod. 19, 1385e1394.
Khan, S.A., Ahmad, A., Khan, M.I., Yusuf, M., Shahid, M., Manzoor, N., Mohammad, F.,
2012. Antimicrobial activity of wool yarn dyed with Rheum emodi L. (Indian
Rhubarb). Dyes Pigm. 95, 206e214.
Khan, S.A., Khan, M.I., Yusuf, M., Shahid, M., Mohammad, F., Khan, M.A., 2011b. Natural
dye shades on woollen yarn dyed with Kamala (Mallotus philippinensis) using eco-
friendly metal mordants and their combination. Colourage 58, 38e44.
Kim, S., 2006. Dyeing characteristics and UV protection property of green tea dyed
cotton fabrics: focusing on the effect of chitosan mordanting condition. Fiber.
Polym. 7, 255e261.
Kim, T.K., Son, Y.A., 2005. Effect of reactive anionic agent on dyeing of cellulosic
fibers with a berberine colorantd part 2: anionic agent treatment and antimi-
crobial activity of a berberine dyeing. Dyes Pigm. 64, 85e89.
Kumar, J.K., Sinha, A.K., 2010. Resurgence of natural colourants: a holistic view. Nat.
Prod. Res. 18, 59e84.
Komboonchoo, S., Bechtold, T., 2009. Natural dyeing of wool and hair with indigo
carmine (C.I. natural blue 2), a renewable resource based blue dye. J. Clean.
Prod. 17, 1487e1493.
Lang, Q., Wai, C.M., 2001. Supercritical fluid extraction in herbal and natural product
studies e a practical review. Talanta 53, 771e782.
Lee, G., Anand, S.C., Rajendran, S., 2009. Are biopolymers potential deodourising
agents in wound management? J. Wound Care 290, 292e305.
Lee, Y.H., Hwang, E.K., Jung, Y.J., Do, S.K., Kim, H.D., 2008. Dyeing and deodor-
izing properties of cotton, silk, wool fabrics dyed with Amur Corktree, Dry-
opteris crassirhizoma, Chrysanthemum boreale, Artemisia extracts. Fiber. Polym.
9, 334e340.
Lee, Y.H., 2007. Dyeing, fastness, and deodorizing properties of cotton, silk, and
wool fabrics dyed with coffee sludge (Coffea arabica L.) extract. J. Appl. Polym.
Sci. 103, 251e257.
 S. Islam et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 57 (2013) 2e18
Leitner, P., Fitz-Binder, C., Mahmud-Ali, A., Bechtold, T., 2012. Production of a
concentrated natural dye from Canadian goldenrod (Solidago canadensis) ex-
tracts. Dyes Pigm. 93, 1416e1421.
Leonelli, C., Mason, T., 2010. Microwave and ultrasonic processing: now a realistic
option for industry. Chem. Eng. Proc. 49, 885e900.
Liakopoulou-Kyriakides, M., Tsatsaroni, E., Laderos, P., Georgiadou, K., 1998. Dyeing
of cotton and wool fibres with pigments from Crocus sativus e effect of enzy-
matic treatment. Dyes Pigm. 36, 215e221.
Liu, L., Wang, Q., Xia, Z., Yu, J., Chenga, L., 2010. Mechanical modification of
degummed jute fibre for high value textile end uses. Ind. Crop Prod. 31, 43e47.
Liu, Z.T., Yang, Y., Zhang, L., Sun, P., Liu, Z.W., Lu, J., Tang, S., 2008. Study on the
performance of ramie fiber modified with ethylenediamine. Carbohydr. Polym.
71, 18e25.
Lokhande, H.T., Dorugade, V.A., 1999. Dyeing nylon with natural dyes. Am. Dyest.
Rep. 88 (2), 29e34.
Long, J.J., Cui, C.L., Wang, L., Xu, H.M., Yu, Z.J., Bi, X.P., 2013. Effect of treatment
pressure on wool fiber in supercritical carbon dioxide fluid. J. Clean. Prod. 43,
52e58.
Maia, M.F., Moore, S.J., 2011. Plant-based insect repellents: a review of their efficacy,
development and testing. Malar. J. 10 (Suppl. 1), S11.
Majetich, G., Hicks, R., 1995. The use of microwave heating to promote organic
reactions. J. Microw. Power Electromagn. Energy 30, 27e30.
Mansour, H.F., Heffernan, S., 2011. Environmental aspects on dyeing silk fabric with
Sticta coronate lichen using ultrasonic energy and mild mordants. Clean Tech-
nol. Environ. Policy 13, 207e213.
Meksi, N., Haddar, W., Hammami, S., Mhenni, M.F., 2012. Olive mill wastewater: a
potential source of natural dyes for textile dyeing. Ind. Crop Prod. 40, 103e109.
Meshram, M.W., Patil, V.V., Mhaske, S.T., Thorat, B.N., 2009. Graft copolymers of
starch and its application in textiles. Carbohydr. Polym. 75, 71e78.
Mirjalili, M., Nazarpoor, K., Karimi, L., 2011. Eco-friendly dyeing of wool using natural
dye from weld as co-partner with synthetic dye. J. Clean. Prod. 19, 1045e1051.
Mongkholrattanasit, R., Krystufek, J., Wiener, J., 2010. Dyeing and fastness proper-
ties of natural dyes extracted from eucalyptus leaves using padding techniques.
Fiber. Polym. 11, 346e350.
Mongkholrattanasit, R., Krystufek, J., Wiener, J., Vikova, M., 2011. UV protection
properties of silk fabric dyed with eucalyptus leaf extract. J. Text. Inst. 102,
272e279.
Montazer, M., Pakdel, E., 2011. Functionality of nano titanium dioxide on textiles
with future aspects: focus on wool. J. Photochem. Photobiol. C 12, 293e303.
Montazer, M., Parvinzadeh, M., 2004. Effect of ammonia on madder-dyed natural
protein fiber. J. Appl. Polym. Sci. 93, 2704e2710.
Montazer, M., Parvinzadeh, M., 2007. Dyeing of wool with marigold and its prop-
erties. Fiber. Polym. 8, 181e185.
Morton, J.F., 1992. The ocean-going noni, or Indian mulberry (Morinda citrifolia,
Rubiaceae) and some of its “Colorful” relatives. Econ. Bot. 52, 241e256.
Nabikhan, A., Kandasamy, K., Raj, A., Alikunhi, N.M., 2010. Synthesis of antimicrobial
silver nanoparticles by callus and leaf extracts from saltmarsh plant, Sesuvium
portulacastrum L. Colloid Surface. B 79, 488e493.
Nelson, G., 2002. Application of microencapsulation in textiles. Int. J. Pharm. 242,
55e62.
Oh, S.W., Kang, M.N., Cho, C.W., Lee, M.W., 1997. Detection of carcinogenic amines
from dyestuffs or dyed substrates. Dyes Pigm. 33, 119e135.
Park, J.H., Gatewood, B.M., Ramaswamy, G.N., 2005. Naturally occurring quinones
and flavonoid dyes for wool: insect feeding deterrents. J. Appl. Polym. Sci. 98,
322e328.
Pawlak, K., Puchalska, M., Miszczak, A., Rostoniec, E., Jarosz, M., 2006. Blue natural
organic dyestuffs e from textile dyeing to mural painting. Separation and
characterization of coloring matters present in elderberry, logwood and indigo.
J. Mass Spectr. 41, 613e622.
Pan, Y., Han, G., Mao, Z., Zhang, Y., Duan, H., Huang, J., Qu, L., 2011. Structural
characteristics and physical properties of lotus fibers obtained from Nelumbo
nucifera petioles. Carbohydr. Polym. 85, 188e195.
Prabhu, K.H., Teli, M.D., 2011. Eco-dyeing using Tamarindus indica L. seed coat tannin
as a natural mordant for textiles with antibacterial activity. J. Saudi Chem. Soc..
http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jscs.2011.10.014.
Prabhu, K.H., Teli, M.D., Waghmare, N.G., 2011. Eco-friendly dyeing using natural
mordant extracted from Emblica officinalis G. Fruit on cotton and silk fabrics
with antibacterial activity. Fiber. Polym. 12, 753e759.
Proto, M., Supino, S., Malandrino, O., 2000. Cotton: a flow cycle to exploit. Ind. Crop
Prod. 11, 173e178.
Prusty, A.K., Das, T., Nayak, A., Das, N.B., 2010. Colourimetric analysis and antimi-
crobial study of natural dyes and dyed silk. J. Clean. Prod. 18, 1750e1756.
Pruthi, N., Chawla, G., Yadav, S., 2008. Dyeing of silk with barberry bark dye using
mordant combination. Nat. Prod. Rad. 7, 40e44.
Raja, A.S.M., Pareek, P.K., Shakyawar, D.B., Wani, S.A., Nehvi, F.A., Sofi, A.H., 2012.
Extraction of natural dye from saffron flower waste and its application on
pashmina fabric. Adv. Appl. Sci. Res. 3, 156e161.
Rajendran, R., Radhai, R., Kotresh, T.M., Csiszar, E., 2013. Development of antimi-
crobial cotton fabrics using herb loaded nanoparticles. Carbohydr. Polym. 91,
613e617.
Ramchandran, T., Rajendrakumar, K., Rajendran, R., 2004. Antimicrobial textiles e
an overview. IE (I) J. TX, 42e47.
Ravindra, S., Mohan, Y.M., Reddy, N.M., Raju, K.M., 2010. Fabrication of antibacterial
cotton fibres loaded with silver nanoparticles via “Green Approach”. Colloid
Surface. A 367, 31e40.
17
Reddy, N., Yang, Y., 2005a. Structure and properties of high quality natural cellulose
fibers from corn stalks. Polymer 46, 5494e5500.
Reddy, N., Yang, Y., 2005b. Biofibers from agricultural byproducts for industrial
applications. Trend. Biotechnol. 23, 22e27.
Reddy, N., Yang, Y., 2009a. Properties of natural cellulose fibers from hop stems.
Carbohydr. Polym. 77, 898e902.
Reddy, N., Yang, Y., 2009b. Natural cellulose fibers from soybean straw. Bioresour.
Technol. 100, 3593e3598.
Rehman, F., Adeel, S., Qaiser, S., Bhatti, I.A., Shahid, M., Zuber, M., 2012. Dyeing
behaviour of gamma irradiated cotton fabric using Lawson dye extracted from
henna leaves (Lawsonia inermis). Radiat. Phys. Chem. 81, 1752e1756.
Rekaby, M., Salem, A.A., Nassar, S.H., 2009. Eco-friendly printing of natural fabrics
using natural dyes from alkanet and rhubarb. J. Text. 100, 486e495.
Sachan, K., Kapoor, V.P., 2007. Optimization of extraction and dyeing conditions for
traditional turmeric dye. Indian J. Trad. Knowl. 6, 270e278.
Samanta, A.K., Agarwal, P., 2009. Application of natural dyes on textiles. Indian J.
Fibre Text. Res. 34, 384e399.
Samanta, A.K., Agarwal, P., Datta, S., 2008. Dyeing of jute with binary mixtures of
jackfruit wood and other natural dyes e study on colour performance and dye
compatibility. Indian J. Fibre Text. Res. 33, 171e180.
Samanta, A.K., Konar, A., Chakraborti, S., Datta, S., 2011. Dyeing of jute fabric with
tesu extract: Part 1 e effects of different mordants and dyeing process variables.
Indian J. Fibre Text. Res. 36, 63e73.
Sampaio, S., Bishop, D., Shen, J., 2005. Physical and chemical properties of flax fibres
from stand-retted crops desiccated at different stages of maturity. Ind. Crop
Prod. 21, 275e284.
Santis, D.D., Moresi, M., 2007. Production of alizarin extracts from Rubia tinctorum
and assessment of their dyeing properties. Ind. Crop.Prod 26, 151e162.
Sathianarayanan, M.P., Bhat, N.V., Kokate, S.S., Walnuj, V.E., 2010. Antibacterial
finish for cotton fabric from herbal products. Indian J. Fibre Text. Res. 35,
50e58.
Sathianarayanan, M.P., Chaudhari, B.M., Bhat, N.V., 2011. Development of durable
antibacterial agent from ban-ajwain seed (Thymus serphyllum) for cotton fabric.
Indian J. Fibre Text. Res. 36, 234e241.
Sathishkumar, M., Sneha, K., Won, S.W., Cho, C.W., Kim, S., Yun, Y.S., 2009. Cinnamon
zeylanicum bark extract and powder mediated green synthesis of nano-crystalline
silver particles and its bactericidal activity. Colloid Surface. B 73, 332e338.
Sathishkumar, M., Sneha, K., Yun, Y.S., 2010. Immobilization of silver nanoparticles
synthesized using Curcuma longa tuber powder and extract on cotton cloth for
bactericidal activity. Bioresour. Technol. 101, 7958e7965.
Schneider, R., Sostar-Turk, S., 2003. Good quality printing with reactive dyes using
guar gum and biodegradable additives. Dyes Pigm. 57, 7e14.
Schofield, P., Mbugua, D.M., Pell, A.N., 2001. Analysis of condensed tannins: a re-
view. Anim. Feed Sci. Technol. 91, 21e40.
Sewekov, U., 1988. Natural dyes e an alternative ti synthetic dyes? Melliand. E 4,
145e148.
Shahid, M., Ahmad, A., Yusuf, M., Khan, M.I., Khan, S.A., Manzoor, N., Mohammad, F.,
2012. Dyeing, fastness and antimicrobial properties of woolen yarns dyed with
gallnut (Quercus infectoria Oliv.) extract. Dyes Pigm. 95, 53e61.
Shahid, M., Islam, S., Mohammad, F., 2013. Recent advancements in natural dye ap-
plications: a review. J. Clean. Prod. 53, 310e331.
Shams-Nateri, A., 2011. Reusing wastewater of madder natural dye for wool dyeing.
J. Clean. Prod. 19, 775e781.
Shastri, J.P., Rupani, M.G., Jain, R.L., 2012. Antimicrobial activity of nanosilver coated
socks fabrics against foot pathogens. J. Text. I. 103, 1234e1243.
Shi, J., Yu, J., Pohorly, J.E., Kakuda, Y., 2003. Polyphenolics in grape seeds-
biochemistry and functionality. J. Med. Food 6, 291e299.
Simoncic, B., Tomsic, B., 2010. Structures of novel antimicrobial agents for textiles e
review. Text. Res. J. 80, 1721e1737.
Singh, R., Jain, A., Panwar, S., Gupta, D., Khare, S.K., 2005. Antimicrobial activity of
some natural dyes. Dyes Pigm. 66, 99e102.
Singh, S.V., Purohit, M.C., 2012. Applications of eco-friendly natural dye on wool
fibers using combination of natural and chemical mordants. Univers. J. Environ.
Res. Technol. 2 (2), 48e55.
Sinha, K., Saha, P.D., Datta, S., 2012a. Extraction of natural dye from petals of flame
of forest (Butea monosperma) flower: process optimization using response
surface methodology (RSM). Dyes Pigm. 94, 212e216.
Sinha, K., Saha, P.D., Datta, S., 2012b. Response surface optimization and artificial
neural network modelling of microwave assisted natural dye extraction from
pomegranate rind. Ind. Crop Prod. 37, 408e414.
Sinha, K., Chowdhury, S., Saha, P.D., Datta, S., 2013. Modeling of microwave-assisted
extraction of natural dye from seeds of Bixa orellana (Annatto) using response
surface methodology (RSM) and artificial neural network (ANN). Ind. Crop Prod.
41, 165e171.
Siva, R., Mayes, S., Behera, S.K., Rajasekaran, C., 2012. Anthraquinones dye pro-
duction using root cultures of Oldenlandia umbellata L. Ind. Crop Prod. 37,
415e419.
Sivakumar, V., Vijaeeswarri, J., Anna, J.L., 2011. Effective natural dye extraction from
different plant materials using ultrasound. Ind. Crop Prod. 33, 116e122.
Sivakumar, V., Chandrasekaran, F., Swaminathan, G., Rao, P.G., 2009. Towards
cleaner degreasing method in industries: ultrasound-assisted aqueous
degreasing process in leather making. J. Clean. Prod. 17, 101e104.
Sivakumar, V., Prakash, R.P., Rao, P.G., Ramabrahmam, B.V., Swaminathan, G., 2008.
Power ultrasound in fatliquor preparation based on vegetable oil for leather
application. J. Clean. Prod. 16, 549e553.
18 S. Islam et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 57 (2013) 2e18
Sivakumar, V., Verma, V.R., Rao, P.G., Swaminathan, G., 2007. Studies on the use of
power ultrasound in solideliquid myrobalan extraction process. J. Clean. Prod.
15, 1813e1818.
Son, Y.A., Kim, B.S., Ravikumar, K., Kim, T.K., 2007. Berberine finishing for developing
antimicrobial nylon 66 fibers: % exhaustion, colorimetric analysis, antimicrobial
study, and empirical modeling. J. Appl. Polym. Sci. 103, 1175e1182.
Song, J.Y., Jang, H.K., Kim, B.S., 2009. Biological synthesis of gold nanoparticles using
Magnolia kobus and Diopyros kaki leaf extracts. Proc. Biochem. 44, 1133e1138.
Sostar, S., Schneider, R., 1998. Guar gum as an environment-friendly alternative
thickener in printing with reactive dyes. Dyes Pigm. 39, 211e221.
Sostar Turk, S., Schneider, R., 1999. A study of fabric stiffness with guar gum in
reactive printing. Dyes Pigm. 41, 167e175.
Sostar-Turk, R., Schneider, R., 2000. Printing properties of a high substituted guar
gum and its mixture with alginate. Dyes Pigm. 47, 269e275.
Specos, M.M.M., Garcia, J.J., Tornesello, J., Marinoa, P., Vecchia, M.D.,
Tesoriero, M.V.D., Hermida, L.G., 2010. Microencapsulated citronella oil for
mosquito repellent finishing of cotton textiles. Trans. R. Soc. Trop. Med. Hyg.
104, 653e658.
Sricharussin, W., Sopajaree, C., Maneerung, T., Sangsuriya, N., 2009. Modification of
cotton fabrics with b-cyclodextrinderivative for aroma finishing. J. Tex. 100,
682e687.
Sumithra, M., Raja, N.V., 2012. Mosquito repellency finishes in blended denim
fabrics. Int. J. Pharm. Life Sci. 3, 614e1616.
Sun, S., Tang, R., 2011. Adsorption and UV protection properties of the extract from
honeysuckle onto wool. Ind. Eng. Chem. Res. 50, 4217e4224.
Surveswaran, S., Cai, Y.Z., Corke, H., Sun, M., 2007. Systematic evaluation of natural
phenolic antioxidants from 133 Indian medicinal plants. Food Chem.102, 938e953.
Tatongjai, J., Lumdubwong, N., 2010. Physicochemical properties and textile utili-
zation of low- and moderate-substituted carboxymethyl rice starches with
various amylase content. Carbohydr. Polym. 81, 377e384.
Teli, M.D., Rohera, P., Sheikh, J., Singhal, R., 2009a. Application of germinated maize
starch in textile printing. Carbohydr. Polym. 75, 599e603.
Teli, M.D., Rohera, P., Sheikh, J., Singhal, R., 2009b. Use of Amaranthus (Rajgeera) starch
vis-à-vis wheat starch in printing of vat dyes. Carbohydr. Polym. 76, 460e463.
Teli, M.D., Shanbag, V., Kulkami, P.R., Singhal, R.S., 1996. Amaranthus paniculates
(Rajgeera) starch as a thickener in the printing of textiles. Carbohydr. Polym. 31,
119e122.
Thilagavathi, G., Kannaian, T., 2010. Combined antimicrobial and aroma finishing
treatment for cotton, using microencapsulated geranium (Pelargonium grave-
olens L’ Herit. Ext Ait) leaves extract. Indian J. Nat. Prod. Resour. 1, 348e352.
Thilagavathi, G., Rajendrakumar, K., Rajendran, R., 2005. Development of eco-
friendly antimicrobial textile finishes using herbs. Indian J. Fibre Text. Res. 30,
431e436.
Vaideki, K., Jayakumar, S., Rajendran, R., Thilagavathi, G., 2008. Investigation on the
effect of RF air plasma and neem leaf extract treatment on the surface modifi-
cation and antimicrobial activity of cotton fabric. Appl. Surf. Sci. 254, 2472e2478.
van der Werf, H.M.G., Turunen, L., 2008. The environmental impacts of the pro-
duction of hemp and flax textile yarn. Ind.Crop. Prod. 27, 1e10.
Vankar, P.S., Sarswat, R.K., Dwivedi., A., Sahu, R.S., 2011. An assessment and char-
acterization for biosorption efficiency of natural dye waste. J. Clean. Prod..
http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2011.09.021.
Vankar, P.S., Shanker, R., Dixit, S., Mahanta, D., Tiwari, S.C., 2008a. Sonicator dyeing
of modified cotton, wool and silk with Mahonia napaulensis DC. and identifi-
cation of the colorant in Mahonia. Ind. Crop Prod. 27, 371e379.
Vankar, P.S., Shanker, R., Mahanta, D., Tiwari, S.C., 2008b. Ecofriendly sonicator
dyeing of cotton with Rubia cordifolia Linn. using biomordants. Dyes Pigm. 76,
207e212.
Vankar, P.S., Shanker, R., Srivastava, J., 2007a. Ultrasonic dyeing of cotton fabric with
aqueous extract of Eclipta alba. Dyes Pigm. 72, 33e37.
Vankar, P.S., Shanker, R., Verma, A., 2007b. Enzymatic natural dyeing of cotton and
silk fabrics without metal mordants. J. Clean. Prod. 15, 1441e1450.
Vankar, P.S., Shukla, D., 2012. Biosynthesis of silver nanoparticles using lemon
leaves extract and its application for antimicrobial finish on fabric. Appl.
Nanosci 2, 163e168.
Vankar, P.S., Tiwari, V., Singh, L.W., Potsangbam, L., 2009. Sonicator dyeing of cotton
fabric and chemical characterization of the colorant from Melastoma malaba-
thricum. Pigm. Resin Technol. 38, 38e42.
Vigneshwaran, N., Kumar, S., Kathe, A.A., Varadarajan, P.V., Prasad, V., 2006. Func-
tional finishing of cotton fabrics using zinc oxide-soluble starch nano-
composites. Nanotech 17, 5087e5095.
Vogl, C.R., Hartl, A., 2003. Production and processing of organically grown fiber
nettle (Urtica dioica) and its potential use in the natural textile industry: a re-
view. Am. J. Alternat. Agric. 18, 119e128.
Walentowska, J., Foksowicz-Flaczyk, J., 2013. Thyme essential oil for antimicrobial
protection of natural textiles. Int. Biodeter. Biodegr. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.
ibiod.2012.06.028.
Wang, L., Wang, N., Jia, S., Zhou, Q., 2009. Research on dyeing and ultraviolet pro-
tection of silk fabric using vegetable dyes extracted from Flos sophorae. Text.
Res. J. 79, 1402e1409.
Wang, W.M., Yu, B., Zhong, C.J., 2012. Use of ultrasonic energy in the enzymatic
desizing of cotton fabric. J. Clean. Prod. 33, 179e182.
Wanyama, A.P., Kiremire, B., Murumu, J.E.S., Tumusiime, H., 2012. Toxicological
characterization of crude dye extracts derived from Albizia coriaria, Morinda
lucida and Vitellaria paradoxa selected dye-yielding plants in Uganda. Int. J. Nat.
Prod. Res. 1, 16e20.
Wossink, A., Denaux, Z.S., 2006. Environmental and cost efficiency of pesticide use
in transgenic and conventional cotton production. Agric. Sys. 90, 312e328.
Wu, E., Komolpis, K., Wang, H.Y., 1999. Chemical extraction of indigo from
Indigofera tinctoria while attaining biological integrity. Biotechnol. Tech. 13,
567e569.
Yusuf, M., Ahmad, A., Shahid, M., Khan, M.I., Khan, S.A., Manzoor, N., Mohammad, F.,
2012. Assessment of colorimetric, antibacterial and antifungal properties of
woollen yarn dyed with the extract of the leaves of henna (Lawsonia inermis).
J. Clean. Prod. 27, 42e50.
Zhang, S., Horrocks, A.R., 2003. A review of flame retardant polypropylene fibres.
Prog. Polym. Sci. 28, 1517e1538.