H45-65XM (Ser.

# D177)
TABLE of CONTENTS
FRAME – 100 SRM 505
GM 3.0L ENGINE - 600 SRM 3
ISUZU 4JB1 (2.8L) ENGINE - 600 SRM 467
MAZDA M4-2.0G ENGINE - 600 SRM 496
GM 2.2L ENGINE - 600 SRM 497
ISUZU 4JG2 (3.1L) ENGINE - 600 SRM 553
COOLING SYSTEM - 700 SRM 626
LPG FUEL SYSTEM (GM 2.2L & 3.0L) - 900 SRM 498
GASOLINE FUEL SYSTEM (MAZDA) - 900 SRM 502
LPG FUEL SYSTEM (MAZDA) - 900 SRM 523

SINGLE-SPD POWER-SHIFT TRANS – DESCR & OPER - 1300 SRM 500

SINGLE-SPD POWER-SHIFT TRANS – REPAIR - 1300 SRM 501
DRIVE AXLE - 1400 SRM 499
STEERING AXLE - 1600 SRM 316
STEERING HOUSING & CONTROL UNIT - 1600 SRM 512
BRAKE SYSTEM - 1800 SRM 506
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM & GEAR PUMP - 1900 SRM 513
MAIN CONTROL VALVE - 2000 SRM 516
TILT CYLINDERS - 2100 SRM 103
ALTERNATOR - 2200 SRM 2
STARTER - 2200 SRM 106
ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROL – REPAIR (GM 2.2L) - 2200 SRM 490
ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROL – DESCR/OPER (GM 2.2L) - 2200 SRM 525
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER - 2200 SRM 514
MICROPROCESSOR SPARK TIMING SYSTEM (GM 2.2L) - 2200 SRM 515
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (ISUZU) - 2200 SRM 520
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (MAZDA) - 2200 SRM 524
MSTS – GM 3.0L (EARLY CONTROL MODULES) - 2200 SRM 603
MSTS – GM 3.0L (LATER CONTROL MODULES) - 2200 SRM 765
GM 3.0L ENG. CONTROL –DESCR/OPER (EARLY MODULES) - 2200 SRM 612
GM 3.0L ENG. CONTROL –REPAIR (EARLY MODULES) - 2200 SRM 611
MAST – DESCRIPTION - 4000 SRM 521
MAST – REPAIR - 4000 SRM 522
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE - 8000 SRM 493
CAPACITIES & SPECIFICATION - 8000 SRM 503
DIAGRAMS - 8000 SRM 504
TECHNICAL NOTES:
 INTRODUCTION
GENERAL
This section has the description of the frame and some
connected parts. See FIGURE 1. Procedures for the re-
moval and installation of the counterweight, hood, over-
head guard, and engine (including the transmission) are
under REPAIRS. Checks for the operator restraint sys-
tem and procedures for the repair of tanks and installa-
tion of safety labels are also included.
DESCRIPTION
The frame is one weldment and includes the hydraulic
tank and the fuel tank for gasoline or diesel fuel.
There is a counterweight for each capacity of lift truck.
The counterweights are similar, but are different
weights. The muffler is fastened to the frame inside of
the counterweight.
An operator module is installed on the frame with rub-
ber mounts. The overhead guard, steering controls,
instrument panel and the hood and seat are installed on
the operator module.
The hood is connected to the operator module with
hinges. Two gas controlled springs give assistance when
raising the hood and hold the hood in the open position.
The floor plates and side covers can be removed for ac-
cess to the engine, transmission and other components.

1. OPERATOR MODULE
2. FRAME
1 3. HYDRAULIC TANK
4. FUEL TANK
5. STEERING AXLE MOUNT

9
3

10

2
5
6. DRIVE AXLE MOUNT
7. CAPSCREW
8. WASHER
9. RUBBER MOUNT 4
10. NUT

FIGURE 1. FRAME AND OPERATOR MODULE

1
 REPAIRS
WARNING
The lift truck must be put on blocks for some types of
maintenance and repair. The removal of the follow-
ing assemblies will cause large changes in the center
of gravity: mast, drive axle, engine and transmission,
and the counterweight. When the lift truck is put on
blocks, put additional blocks in the following posi-
tions to maintain stability:
a. Before removing the mast and drive axle, put
blocks under the counterweight so that the lift
truck can not fall backward.
b. Before removing the counterweight, put
blocks under the mast assembly so that the lift
truck can not fall forward.
The surface must be solid, even, and level when the
lift truck is put on blocks. Make sure that any blocks
used to support the lift truck are solid, one piece
units. See the OPERATING MANUAL or the PE-
RIODIC MAINTENANCE section, 8000 SRM 493.
OPERATOR MODULE
Removal (See FIGURE 1.)
1. Remove the hood and side covers.
2. Remove the steering housing and instrument cluster
from the cowl. Remove the capscrews that hold the
parking brake lever to the cowl.
3. Remove the crossmember that is the mount for the
hood.
4. Remove the nuts and bolts at the mounts for the opera-
tor module.
5. Connect a lifting device to the overhead guard. The
overhead guard and module weigh approximately 385
kg (850 lb). Lift the operator module from the frame.
Installation (See FIGURE 1.)
NOTE: If the overhead guard was removed from the op-
erator module, tighten the rear leg mount capscrews to
53 Nm (39 lbf ft) torque. On H2.00–3.20XM
(H40–65XM) units, tighten the capscrews that fasten
the module cowl side plate to the front legs to 66 Nm (49
lbf ft) torque.
2
1. Connect a lifting device to the overhead guard. The
overhead guard and module weigh approximately 385
kg (850 lb). Lift the operator module onto the frame.
2. Make sure the rubber mounts are installed in the
frame. Install the large washer and nut on the bottom of
the mount. Tighten the nuts to 53 Nm (39 lbf ft) torque.
3. Install the crossmember for the hood and pedal
mounts. Install the hood and side covers.
4. Install the steering controls and the parking brake le-
ver.
5. Install the floor plates.
HOOD AND SIDE COVERS
(See FIGURE 2.)
Removal
NOTE: The hood and seat together weigh approximate-
ly 45 kg (100 lb). Have a helper or use a lifting device to
remove the hood and seat.
1. Raise the hood. Hold the hood so that it does not fall
and disconnect the gas controlled spring at the hood.
2. Remove the rod end pins and pivot pins from the hood
hinges. Remove the hood.
Installation
(See FIGURE 2. and FIGURE 3.)
1. Install the hood in position on the lift truck. Install the
pivot pins and rod end pins at the hood hinges. Connect
the gas controlled spring to the hood. Adjust the hood
latch as follows:
WARNING
The hood, hood latch and latch striker must be cor-
rectly adjusted for the correct operation of the op-
erator restraint system.
a. Install the hood latch in the lowest slot position
on the frame of the hood. Tighten the capscrews
so that the hood latch can still move when the
hood is closed.
b. Install the latch striker. Check that the latch
striker is in the center of the jaws of the hood latch
when the hood closes.
 1. HOOD
2. SEAT PAN H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM)
3. ROD END PIN SHOWN S2.00–3.20XM
4. PIVOT PIN (S40–65XM) SIMILAR.
5. HOOD LATCH
6. SIDE COVER
7. GAS SPRING
8. CLAMP 1
9. SPRING
10. CROSSMEMBER
11. LATCH STRIKER
12. PANEL
13. HOOD BUMPER

2 13
3

4
13

11
5
7
8
9

12

10

FIGURE 2. HOOD AND SIDE COVERS

c. Carefully close the hood to the fully closed posi-

2 tion. The hood latch has two positions. The hood
1
is fully closed after two clicks of the latch.

d. Push the hood down until the hood just touches

the rubber bumpers. Make sure the latch striker is
3
still in the center of the hood latch. Open the hood
and tighten the capscrews for the latch.

12793 e. Check the operation of the hood latch. Have an

operator sit in the seat. Make sure the hood is
1. HOOD FRAME fully closed (two clicks). Also check that the
2. HOOD LATCH
3. LATCH STRIKER
hood touches the rubber bumpers. If necessary,
repeat Step d.
FIGURE 3. CHECK THE HOOD LATCH
3
OVERHEAD GUARD Removal (See FIGURE 4.)
1. If the lift truck has an LPG fuel system, remove the
WARNING
LPG tank and bracket so that the counterweight can be
Do not operate the lift truck without the overhead
removed.
guard correctly fastened to the lift truck.
Changes that are made by welding, or by drilling H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM)
holes that are too big or in the wrong location, can re- SHOWN S2.00–3.20XM
duce the strength of the overhead guard. See the in- (S40–65XM) SIMILAR.
structions for “Changes to the Overhead Guard” in 2 4
1 5
the PERIODIC MAINTENANCE section included
with this lift truck.

Removal and Installation

Connect a crane or lifting device to remove or install the
overhead guard. Disconnect the air intake at the over-
head guard leg. Disconnect any wires between the frame
and the overhead guard. When the overhead guard is
lifted from the frame, make sure any electric wires are 6
moved through the holes in the frame so that they are not 3
damaged. There are two capscrews at each corner of the
overhead guard. Remove and install the capscrews for
the overhead guard as follows:
1. SEAL
a. Access to the bolts at the front of the overhead 2. SPACER
guard is under the dash panel. Remove the plastic 3. COUNTERWEIGHT
box from the right–hand side of the dash panel. 4. HOLE FOR EYEBOLT
5. EYEBOLT
b. Access to the bolts at the rear of the overhead 6. TOW PIN 7
guard is under the rear fender wells. 7. CAPSCREW

NOTE: Tighten the rear leg mount capscrews to 53 Nm FIGURE 4. COUNTERWEIGHT

(39 lbf ft) torque. On H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM)
units, tighten the capscrews that fasten the module cowl
side plate to the front legs to 66 Nm (49 lbf ft) torque.
NOTE: The air inlet for the air filter is installed in the
left–hand leg of the overhead guard. Make sure the grill
is installed with the louvers pointed downward.
COUNTERWEIGHT
The counterweight is held in position on the frame by
two hooks that are part of the frame. One M24 x 3 cap-
screw holds the counterweight to the lower part of the
frame.
WARNING
Do not operate the lift truck if the capscrew for the
counterweight is not installed. When the capscrew is
removed, the counterweight can fall from the lift
truck.
Additional information on the LPG fuel system can be
found in the following section of the SERVICE MAN-
UAL; THE LPG FUEL SYSTEM, 900 SRM 498 or
900 SRM 523.
WARNING
LPG can cause an explosion. Do not cause sparks or
permit flammable material near the LPG system.
LPG fuel systems can be disconnected indoors only if
the lift truck is at least 8 metres (25 feet) from any
open flame, motor vehicles, electrical equipment, or
ignition source.
Close the shut–off valve on the LPG tank before any
part of the engine fuel system is disconnected. Run
the engine until the fuel in the system is used and the
engine stops.
If the engine will not run, close the shut–off valve on
the LPG tank. Loosen the fitting on the supply hose

4
from the LPG tank where it enters the filter unit.
TABLE 1. WEIGHT OF COUNTERWEIGHTS
Permit the pressure in the fuel system to decrease
slowly. Fuel leaving the fitting removes heat. Use a MODEL kg lb
cloth to protect your hands from the cold fitting. H2.00XM (H40XM) 1080±16 2380±36
2. Use the following procedure to remove the LPG tank: H2.25XM (H45XM) 1231±18 2715±40
a. LPG tanks can be removed and replaced indoors
only if the lift truck is at least 8 metres (25 feet) H2.50XM (H50XM)1 1354±20 2980±47
from any flame or ignition source. H50XM2 1406±21 3100±47
b. Move the lift truck to the area where tanks are
H2.75XM (H55XM) 1611±24 3550±55
changed.
c. Turn the shut–off valve clockwise until the valve H3.00XM (H60XM)1 1800±27 3965±60
is completely closed.
H3.00XM (H60XM)2 1696±25 3735±55
d. Run the engine until it stops, then turn the key
switch to the OFF position. H3.20XM (H65XM) 1770±27 3900±60
e. Disconnect the quick disconnect fitting. NOTES: 1 1623 mm (63.9 in) Wheelbase
2 1700 mm (67.0 in) Wheelbase
f. Release the LPG tank latch and remove the tank
from the bracket. S2.00XM (S40XM) 1070±15 2360±35
S2.25XM (S45XM) 1233±19 2720±41
S2.50XM (S50XM) 1433±21 3160±47
S2.75XM (S55XM) 1640±25 3615±55
S2.75XMS (S55XMS) 1710±25 3770±55
S3.00XM (S60XM) 1855±28 4090±61
S3.20XM (S65XM) 2018±30 4450±67

5
 WARNING
1
The counterweight is heavy. Make sure that the eye-
bolt and lifting devices have enough capacity to lift
1 the weight. The approximate weight of the counter-
weight castings are shown in TABLE 1.
4. See FIGURE 4. Install a lifting eye in the lifting hole
of the counterweight. Connect a crane to the lifting eye
and raise the crane until it holds part of the weight of the
counterweight. Remove the capscrew that holds the
counterweight to the frame. Use the crane to lift the
counterweight from the lift truck. Put the counterweight
on the floor so that it has stability and will not fall over.

2 Installation (See FIGURE 5.)

1 1. Install the spacers on the mounts. When the counter-
weight is installed, make sure the hooks on the frame
fully engage the counterweight so that it is aligned with
the parts of the frame. Use the spacers to obtain a gap of
8.5 to 11.5 mm (0.35 to 0.45 in) between the counter-
weight and the overhead guard leg. Tighten the M24 x 3
capscrew to 555 Nm (409 lbf ft) torque.
2. If the lift truck has an LPG fuel system, install the
bracket for the LPG tank. Use the following procedure
to install the LPG tank:
a. Before the LPG tank is installed on the lift truck,
make sure the tank has fuel in it. Check the opera-
tion of the fuel gauge. Look at the fuel gauge and
move the tank. If the gauge needle does not move,
a new tank must be installed.
1. SPACER b. Put the tank in the tank bracket. Make sure that
2. RUBBER SEAL the tank is aligned with the alignment pin.
3. CAPSCREW
3 c. Close the latch.
d. Connect the quick disconnect fitting to the shut–
FIGURE 5. INSTALLATION OF THE off valve on the tank. Use your hand to tighten the
COUNTERWEIGHT
fitting. Do not open the shut–off valve until the
quick disconnect fitting is completely tightened.
3. If an overhead exhaust is installed, remove it as shown Turn the shut–off valve counterclockwise to open
in FIGURE 7. the valve.

6
 1 7
7

2
10 4

11
1. MUFFLER
2. RUBBER MOUNT
3. ISUZU C240 9 12
ARRANGEMENT
4. ISUZU 4JB1, 4JG2
ARRANGEMENT 7
5. GM 2.2L
ARRANGEMENT 5
6. MAZDA M4–2.0G
ARRANGEMENT 11
7. GASKET
8. ADAPTER
9. SEAL 12 6
10. SPACER
11. SPRING
12. SPECIAL CAPSCREW

FIGURE 6. EXHAUST SYSTEM

e. Inspect the fuel system for leaks when the shut–
off valve is open. Frost on the surface of the tank,
valves or fittings or a strong odor indicates leak-
age.
3. If the lift truck has an overhead exhaust, install it as
shown in FIGURE 7.
EXHAUST SYSTEM
The muffler is installed inside the cavity of the counter-
weight. A short exhaust pipe sends the exhaust gases out
of the lift truck through the grille in the counterweight.

7
The lift truck can have an overhead exhaust system. The
exhaust pipe is fastened to the top of the counterweight.
See FIGURE 7.
1. OVERHEAD EXHAUST
2. COVER
1 4
3. COUNTERWEIGHT
FIGURE 7. OVERHEAD EXHAUST
Muffler Replacement (See FIGURE 6.)
The counterweight must be removed to install the muf-
fler. When replacing parts of the exhaust system, see
FIGURE 6. When connecting the exhaust pipe to the en-
gine do the following:
a. On units with the Isuzu 4JB1 and 4JG2 engines,
install the adapter on the exhaust manifold.
Tighten the nuts for the adapter to 40 Nm (30 lbf
ft) torque. Install the exhaust seal, spacer and ex-
haust pipe. Install the springs and special cap-
screws. Tighten the special capscrews to 38 Nm
(28 lbf ft) torque.
8
3 2
1
1. RADIATOR
2. RADIATOR CAP
3. AUXILIARY COOLANT 4. SHROUD
RESERVOIR 5. DRAIN VALVE
FIGURE 8. COOLING SYSTEM
b. On units with the GM 2.2L engine, install the ex-
haust seal and exhaust pipe. Install the spring,
special capscrew and lock washer. Make sure the
lock washer is between the exhaust manifold and
special capscrew.
c. On units with an overhead exhaust, tighten the
capscrews that hold the overhead exhaust to the
counterweight to 38 Nm (28 lbf ft) torque. Install
the cover.
RADIATOR AND COOLING SYSTEM
WARNING
DO NOT remove the radiator cap while it is hot. Hot
coolant and steam can cause burns. Make sure the la-
bel is on the radiator cap. See FIGURE 11.
Removal (See FIGURE 8.)
1. Use the drain valve and drain the coolant from the ra-
diator. Remove the bottom radiator hose and drain the
coolant from the engine.
2. Remove the capscrews that fasten the fan to the hub.
Remove the capscrews that hold the fan shroud to the ra-
diator. Remove both the fan and the fan shroud.
3. Disconnect the top coolant hose at the radiator. Dis-
connect the lines to the oil cooler in the side of the radia-
tor. Put caps on the open lines and ports. Remove the
capscrews that hold the radiator to the frame. Remove
the radiator.
Installation (See FIGURE 8.)
1. Install the radiator. Install the fan and fan shroud in
position on the radiator. Install the capscrews that hold
the fan shroud. Install the capscrews that fasten the fan
to the hub. Tighten the capscrews to 26 Nm (19 lbf ft)
torque.
OPERATOR RESTRAINT SYSTEM
(See FIGURE 9.)
The seat belt, hip restraint, seat and mount, hood and
latch are all part of the operator restraint system. Each
item must be checked to make sure it is fastened cor-
rectly, functions correctly and is in good condition.
The end of the seat belt must fasten correctly in the latch.
Make sure the seat belt pulls from the retractor assembly
and retracts smoothly. The seat belt must be in good con-
dition. A seat belt that is damaged or worn will not give
protection when it is needed.

2. Connect the upper coolant hoses at the radiator. Con- Adjust the hood, hood latch and latch striker when any
nect the lines for transmission oil to the oil cooler in the of the parts of the operator restraint system are installed
radiator. or replaced. See HOOD for the adjustment procedures.

1. LATCH STRIKER
2. HOOD LATCH 6. HIP RESTRAINT
3. LATCH LEVER 6
7. SEAT RAIL
4. SEAT 5 4 8. HOOD
5. SEAT BELT LATCH 9. HINGE
10. GAS CYLINDER
11. SEAT BELT RE-
3 TRACTOR
12 11
12. SEAT BELT

8 2

7
10
11858

FIGURE 9. CHECK THE HOOD AND SEAT

9
ENGINE
Removal
The engine can be removed with or without the trans-
mission. Follow the procedures in Step 1 to remove the
engine without the transmission. Follow the procedures
in Step 2 to remove the engine and transmission as a
unit.
WARNING
Always disconnect the cables at the battery before
you make repairs to the engine. Disconnect the cable
at the negative terminal first.
1. Remove the engine as follows:
a. Remove the floor plates. Remove the hood and
side covers. Remove the crossmember that is the
hood mount. Remove the air filter and battery.
Remove the radiator.
b. Disconnect the throttle linkage. Disconnect the
exhaust system.
c. Disconnect the wires and wiring harnesses at the
engine. Disconnect the fuel lines at the engine.
d. Connect a lifting device to the engine. Put a block
under the transmission housing as a support.
e. Remove the capscrews that hold the torque con-
verter housing to the flywheel housing. Remove
the capscrews that hold the drive plate to the
torque converter.
WARNING
The engine is heavy. Make sure that any lifting de-
vice has enough capacity to lift the engine. The en-
gine can weigh approximately 340 kg (750 lb).
f. Remove the nuts and bolts from the engine
mounts. Use the lifting device to carefully move
the engine away from the torque converter. Make
sure all of the hoses, wires and cables are discon-
nected from the engine, then lift the engine from
the frame.
2. Remove the engine and transmission as follows:
a. Remove the mast. See the section MAST – Re-
pairs, 4000 SRM 522. Put the lift truck on blocks
so that you have access under the lift truck. See
the section PERIODIC MAINTENANCE,
8000 SRM 493.
10
b. Do Steps a, b and c in Step 1.
c. Remove the crossmember for the brake and
throttle pedals.
d. Remove the hydraulic hose between the pump
and the tank. Put a cap on the tank fitting. Remove
the hydraulic filter and hoses. Remove the supply
line to the main control valve.
e. Drain the oil from the axle housing. Remove the
capscrews that hold the axle shafts to the hubs.
Remove the axle shafts. Disconnect the brake
lines and parking brake cables. Remove the cap-
screws that hold the transmission housing to the
axle housing.
WARNING
The engine and transmission are heavy. Make sure
that any lifting device has enough capacity to lift the
weight. The engine and transmission can weigh
approximately 680 kg (1500 lb).
f. Connect a lifting device to the engine and trans-
mission. Make sure the engine and transmission
assembly can be raised at an angle so that it will
clear the frame. Remove the nuts and bolts from
the engine mounts. Use the lifting device to care-
fully lift the engine and transmission from the
frame.
Installation
The engine can be installed with or without the trans-
mission. Follow the procedures in Step 1 to install the
engine without the transmission. Follow the procedures
in Step 2 to install the engine and transmission as a unit.
1. Install the engine as follows:
WARNING
The engine is heavy. Make sure that any lifting de-
vice has enough capacity to lift the engine. The en-
gine can weigh approximately 340 kg (750 lb).
a. Make sure the torque converter is installed in the
transmission and the drive plate is on the fly-
wheel. Connect a lifting device to the engine. Lift
the engine into the frame. Carefully align the
drive plate with the transmission. See the section
for TRANSMISSION REPAIR, 1300 SRM
501 or 1300 SRM 600. Make sure the pilot on the
torque converter is in the hole in the flywheel.
 Install the capscrews that hold the torque con-
verter housing to the flywheel housing. Install the
capscrews that hold the drive plate to the torque
converter.
1 g. Check all of the fluid levels as described in the
d. Install the crossmember that is the hood mount.
Connect the wires and wiring harnesses at the en-
gine. Connect the fuel lines at the engine.
e. Connect the throttle linkage. Connect the exhaust
system. Install the air filter assembly.
f. Install the battery. Install the side covers and the
hood.
section PERIODIC MAINTENANCE, 8000
SRM 493.

2 2. Install the engine and transmission as follows:

3
a. Put the lift truck on blocks so that you have access
under the lift truck. See the section PERIODIC
MAINTENANCE, 8000 SRM 493.

WARNING
The engine and transmission are heavy. Make sure
that any lifting device has enough capacity to lift the
weight. The engine and transmission can weigh
4 approximately 680 kg (1500 lb).
b. Apply a gasket sealant to the flange of the axle
3 housing. Connect a lifting device to the engine
5
and transmission. Lift the engine and transmis-
sion into the frame. Connect the transmission
housing to the axle housing. Install a capscrew in
the “tight fit” hole first. This hole is on the side of
6
the transmission with the dipstick, near the top.
1. BOLT Install the remaining capscrews. Tighten the cap-
7
2. ENGINE MOUNT screws to 38 Nm (28 lbf ft) torque.
3. FLAT WASHER
c. Install the nuts and bolts for the engine mounts.
4. SPACER 8
5. CUP Install the parts of the mounts as shown in
6. RUBBER MOUNT 3
FIGURE 10. Use a maximum of three spacers
7. TUBE SPACER (item 4) to bring the engine mounts within 1.0
8. BUMPER 9 mm (0.04 in) of a vertical position. Tighten the
9. LOCK WASHER
10. NUT nuts to 66 Nm (49 lbf ft) torque.
10
d. Install the hydraulic hose between the pump and
FIGURE 10. ENGINE MOUNTS the tank. Install the hydraulic filter and hoses.
Connect the supply line to the main control valve.
b. Install the nuts and bolts for the engine mounts. e. Install the crossmember for the brake and throttle
Install the parts of the mounts as shown in pedals.
FIGURE 10. Use a maximum of three spacers f. Do Steps c through g in Step 1.
(item 4) to bring the engine mounts within 1.0
mm (0.04 in) of a vertical position. Tighten the FUEL AND HYDRAULIC TANKS
nuts to 66 Nm (49 lbf ft) torque. Inspection
c. Install the radiator and connect the coolant hoses Make a visual inspection of all sides of the tank. Inspect
and the lines from the transmission. the welds for cracks and leakage. Check for wet areas,

11
accumulation of dirt, and loose or missing paint caused
by leakage. Areas of the tank that are not easily seen can
be checked with an inspection mirror and a light that is
approved for locations with flammable vapors.
Repairs, Small Leaks
Use the following procedure to repair small leaks:
a. Use steam to clean the area around the leak. Re-
move all paint and dirt around the leak.
WARNING
Do not use tools that can make sparks, heat or static
electricity. The vapors in the tank can cause an ex-
plosion.
b. Apply Loctite 290 to the leak. Follow the in-
structions of the manufacturer.
Repairs, Large Leaks
1. Use one of the procedures described under Cleaning
to clean and prepare the tank for repairs.
2. Contact your dealer for Hyster lift trucks for welding
instructions.
3. Use acceptable welding practices to repair the tank.
See the American National Standard Safety In Welding
And Cutting ANSI Z 49.1 – 1973.
Cleaning
WARNING
Special procedures must be followed when large
leaks or other repairs need welding or cutting. All
work must be done by authorized personnel. If the
tank is cleaned inside of a building, make sure there
is enough ventilation. See the following manuals for
additional information:
• Safe Practices For Welding And Cutting Con-
tainers That Have Held Combustibles” by the
American Welding Society, A6.0–65.
• Safety In Welding And Cutting”, American
National Standard, ANSI Z 49.1 – 1973.
When cleaning the tank, do not use solutions that make
dangerous gases at normal temperatures or when
heated. Wear eye and face protection. Protect the body
from burns.
12
When cleaning with steam, use a hose with a minimum
diameter of 19 mm (0.75 inch). Control the pressure of
the steam by a valve installed at the nozzle of the hose. If
a metal nozzle is used, it must be made of a material that
does not make sparks. Make an electrical connection be-
tween the nozzle and the tank. Connect a ground wire to
the tank to prevent static electricity.
Steam Method Of Cleaning
Use the following procedure to clean the tank with
steam:
a. Remove all the parts from the tank. Install the
drain plug.
b. Fill the tank 1/4 full with a solution of water and
sodium bicarbonate or sodium carbonate. Mix
0.5 kg (1 lb) per 4 litres (1 gal) of water.
c. Mix the solution in the tank using air pressure.
Make sure all the surfaces on the inside of the
tank are flushed with the solution. Drain the tank.
d. Put steam into the tank until the tank does not
have odors and the metal is hot. Steam vapors
must come from all the openings.
e. Flush the inside of the tank with boiling water.
Make sure all the loose material is removed from
the inside of the tank.
f. Make an inspection of the inside of the tank. If it
is not clean, repeat Steps d and e and make anoth-
er inspection. When making inspections, use a
light that is approved for locations with flam-
mable vapors.
g. Put plugs in all the openings in the tank. Wait 15
minutes, then remove the inlet and outlet plugs.
Test a sample of the vapor with a special indicator
for gas vapors. If the amount of flammable va-
pors is above the lower flammable limit, repeat
the cleaning procedures.
Chemical Solution Method of Cleaning
If the tank cannot be cleaned with steam, use the follow-
ing procedure:
a. Mix a solution of water and trisodium phosphate
or a cleaning compound with an alkali base. Fol-
low the instructions given by the manufacturer.
b. Fill the tank with the cleaning solution. Use com-
pressed air to mix the solution in the tank.
 c. Drain the tank. Flush the inside of the tank with
hot (boiling) water. Make sure all the cleaning
compound is removed.
d. Make an inspection of the inside of the tank. If the
tank is not clean, repeat Steps 1 through 3. Make
another inspection of the tank. When making in-
spections, use a light that is approved for loca-
tions with flammable vapors.
e. Check the tank for flammable vapors using spe-
cial indicator for gas vapors. If the amount of
flammable vapors is not below the lower flam-
mable limit, repeat the cleaning procedures.
Additional Preparations For Repair
If nitrogen gas or carbon dioxide gas is available, pre-
pare the tank for welding using these gases. See the
manual Safe Practices For Welding and Cutting Con-
tainers That Have Held Combustibles by the American
Welding Society, A6.0–65. If these gases are not avail-
able, another method using water can be used as fol-
lows:
a. Fill the tank with water to just below the point
where the work will be done. Make sure the space
above the level of the water has a vent.
b. Use acceptable welding practices to repair the
tank. See the American National Standard “Safe-
ty in Welding and Cutting,” ANSI Z 49.1 – 1973.
SAFETY LABELS
(See FIGURE 11. or FIGURE 12.)
WARNING
Safety labels are installed on the lift truck to give in-
formation about operation and possible hazards. It
is important that all safety labels are installed on the
lift truck and can be read.
DO NOT add to or modify the lift truck. Any change
to the lift truck, the tires or its equipment can change
the lifting capacity. The lift truck must be rated as
equipped and the nameplate must show the new ca-
pacity rating. Contact your dealer for Hyster lift
trucks for a new nameplate.
WARNING
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic, and
can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning sol-
vents, always follow the recommendations of the
manufacturer.
If a new label must be installed, use the following proce-
dure to install a new label:
a. Make sure the surface is dry and has no oil or
grease. Do not use solvent on new paint. Clean
the surface of old paint with a cleaning solvent.
b. Remove the paper from the back of the label. Do
not touch the adhesive surface.
c. Carefully hold the label in the correct position
above the surface. The label cannot be moved af-
ter it touches the surface. Put the label on the sur-
face. Make sure that all air is removed from under
the label and the corners and edges are tight.
13
 7
8

1 9
6
6

13

14
12
11
5
10

11

1. WARNING, OPERATION 9. RADIAL TIRE WARNING*

2. NAMEPLATE 10. ETHER WARNING*
3. WARNING FOR PARKING BRAKE 11. TWO–PIECE WHEEL WARNING
4. NO ONE ON OR UNDER FORKS 12. FLAMMABLE LP–GAS*
5. NO RIDERS 13. RADIATOR CAP WARNING
6. TIPOVER WARNING 14. OPTIONAL FIRE SAFETY RATING*
7. MAST WARNING
8. FAN WARNING *NOT USED ON ALL UNITS
SEE THE PARTS MANUAL FOR THE PART NUMBERS OF THE LABELS

FIGURE 11. H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM) LABEL POSITIONS

14
 1
6

5
2
4
3
3

15

14

13
6

12
11 9
10

1. MAST WARNING 9. FLAMMABLE LP–GAS*

2. NAMEPLATE 10. OPTIONAL FIRE SAFETY RATING*
3. TIPOVER WARNING 11. NO RIDERS
4. OVERHEAD GUARD 12. DRIVE TRAIN PROTECTION*
5. WARNING, OPERATION 13. NO ONE ON OR UNDER FORKS
6. FAN WARNING 14. PINCH POINT WARNING
7. RADIATOR CAP WARNING 15. WARNING FOR PARKING BRAKE
8. DUAL FUEL (IN ENGINE
COMPARTMENT)* *NOT USED ON ALL UNITS

SEE THE PARTS MANUAL FOR THE PART NUMBERS OF THE LABELS

FIGURE 12. S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) LABEL POSITIONS

15
 INTRODUCTION

GENERAL
This section has the description and the repair instruc-
tions for the engine. Disassembly, cleaning, assembly,
specifications and troubleshooting are included.
WARNING
Some gaskets used in this engine can contain
dangerous fibers. Breathing dust from these fibers is
a cancer or lung disease hazard. Do not create dust!
Use vacuum equipment for asbestos or follow the
cleaning procedure described below.
• Make sure the gasket material is wet with
water or oil to prevent particles in the air.
• Use a hand scraper to remove old gasket mate-
rial. Do not use a power tool or compressed air.
• Discard all asbestos material in a closed con-
tainer while it is still wet.
Put a “DANGEROUS FIBERS” warning label on
the container. Discard dangerous fiber material
safely.
CAUTION
Disconnect the battery cables before doing any
disassembly and repair to the engine or parts of the
electrical system.
The diodes and resistors in the electrical system can
be damaged if the following cautions are not
followed:
• Do not disconnect the battery when the engine
is running. The voltage surge can damage the
diodes and resistors.
• Do not disconnect an electric wire before the
engine is stopped and the switches are “OFF”.
• Do not cause a short circuit by connection of
the electric wires to the wrong terminals.
Make sure a correct identification is made of
the wire before it is connected.
• Make sure a battery is the correct voltage and
polarity before it is connected.
• Do not check for current flow by making a
spark because the electronic components can
be damaged.

1 2 1

7 7
2
3
6
3

6
5 5
4 4
6–250 ENGINE
4–153, 4–181 AND 3.0L ENGINES

5. OIL SUMP 10569

1. ROCKER ARM COVER 3. WATER PUMP 6. ENGINE BLOCK
2. FILL CAP FOR ENGINE OIL 4. VIBRATION DAMPENER 7. CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLY

FIGURE 1. GM ENGINES

1
DESCRIPTION
The GM engines described in this section are the four
cylinder and six cylinder models that have the arrange-
ment of the cylinders in a straight line. These engines
have a similar design. The number one cylinder for these
engines is toward the cooling fan. These engines can
have either a gasoline or a LPG fuel system.
The GM 4–153 engine is used in some models of 2.00 to
3.00 ton (4000 to 6000 lb) capacity lift trucks from June
1975 until June 1990. During 1990, production of the
GM 4–153 engine was stopped and it was replaced with
variations of the GM 4–181 engine. The GM 4–181 en-
gine is also used in some models of 2.00 to 3.00 ton
(4000 to 6000 lb) capacity lift trucks beginning in 1978.
The two engines are the same design except for different
displacements. The GM 4–181 engines installed in the
lift trucks with serial code B187 [S2.00–3.00XL
(S40–60XL)] beginning in 1990 have a different cam-
shaft than the GM 4–181 engines used in the lift trucks
with other serial codes.
The GM 4–181 engines installed in the lift trucks with
serial codes C187 [S2.00–3.00XL (S40–60XL)] and se-
rial codes B177 and C177 [H2.00–3.00XL
(H40–60XL)] are the same engine.
The GM 3.0L engine is a later model of the 4–181 en-
gine. It is used in the S/H2.00–3.20XM (S/H40–65XM)
lift trucks.
The GM 6–250 engine is used in some models of 3.00 to
7.50 ton (6000 to 15 000 lb) capacity lift trucks from
1975 until 1988.
A camshaft in the engine block operates the overhead
valves with push rods. A cast iron crankshaft gear drives
a camshaft gear. The cam lobes are hardened and have a
taper with the high side toward the rear of the engine.
The valve lifters have a rounded surface where they con-
tact the cam lobes. This combination of surfaces causes
the valve lifters to rotate during engine operation. All of
the engines have hydraulic valve lifters.
Each rocker arm rotates on a pivot ball stud fastened to
the cylinder head. The valve guides and valve seats are
part of the cylinder head. The exhaust valve seats are in-
duction hardened.
2
The crankshaft in the four cylinder engines has five
main bearings. The crankshaft in the six cylinder engine
has seven main bearings. The rear main bearing in all
engines is the thrust bearing.
The pistons are aluminum alloy and have three piston
rings. The two compression rings each have a different
design. Some oil control rings have three parts that must
be assembled when the oil control ring is installed on the
piston.
The specifications for engine repair are shown in EN-
GINE SPECIFICATIONS at the end of this section.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE
ENGINE
NOTE: The removal and installation procedures for the
engine and transmission are not included in this section.
See the section, THE FRAME for the model of lift
truck for these procedures.
CYLINDER HEAD AND VALVE
MECHANISM
Cylinder Head, Removal
1. Disconnect the battery cables at the battery.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Disconnect and remove the coolant hose from the
housing for the thermostat.
4. Remove or disconnect the air filter.
5. Disconnect the PCV valve.
6. Disconnect the wires and hoses fastened to brackets
on the rocker arm cover.
7. Disconnect the spark plug wires.
8. Disconnect the linkages, fuel lines, and hoses for the
fuel system.
9. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold
and remove the intake and exhaust manifolds.
10. If necessary, remove the alternator and bracket.
11. Remove the dipstick tube for engine oil.
12. Remove the rocker arm cover.
NOTE: Keep the rocker arm assemblies and the push
rods in order so that they will be installed in the same po-
sition.
13. Remove the rocker arms and the push rods.
14. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in two or three steps.
Do not completely loosen the cylinder head bolts during
the first sequence. Remove the cylinder head bolts. Re-
move the cylinder head and the gasket.
Cylinder Head, Disassembly
1. Use a compressor tool to compress the valve springs
and remove the retainers. See FIGURE 2. and
FIGURE 3. Release the compressor tool and remove the
spring cap, (rotators, when used), oil shield, and valve
springs. Remove the oil seal and any shims from the
springs.
2. Remove the valves from the cylinder head and put
them in a rack so that the valves can be installed again in
their same positions in the cylinder head.

1 1. PCV VALVE
2. ROCKER ARM COVER
3. INTAKE MANIFOLD
4. OUTLET
5. THERMOSTAT
2
6. CYLINDER HEAD
7. INTAKE VALVE
8. PUSH ROD
9. EXHAUST VALVE
10. VALVE SPRING
11. EXHAUST MANIFOLD
12. SHIELD
13. SPRING CAP
17 14. ROCKER ARM
16
15. BALL
15 16. NUT
17. RETAINER
14
13 3

12 11

10

9
4
7 5
8 6

8908
GM 6–250 SHOWN

FIGURE 2. CYLINDER HEAD

3

FIGURE 3. COMPRESS THE VALVE SPRINGS
Cleaning And Inspection
1. Clean the carbon from the combustion chambers and
the valve ports.
2. Clean the valve guides. Use a tool as shown in the ex-
ample in FIGURE 4.
FIGURE 4. TOOL FOR CLEANING THE VALVE
GUIDES
3. Clean the push rods and rocker arms.
4. Clean the surfaces of the cylinder head where the gas-
kets fit.
6. Inspect the cylinder head for cracks in the exhaust
ports, combustion chambers, and external surfaces.
7. Inspect the valves for burned or damaged areas in the
seat surfaces. Inspect for cracks and damaged or worn
valve stems.
4
8. Check the clearance of each valve stem in its valve
guide. Use the following procedure:
a. Use a micrometer to measure the diameter of the
valve stem in three places: top, center, and bot-
tom. The stems of exhaust valves have a small ta-
per. The end of the valve stem near the spring is
approximately 0.0025 mm (0.001 in) larger than
the diameter near the valve head. Use a hole
gauge to measure the bore in the valve guide.
b. Another method of measuring the clearance of
the valve stem in its valve guide is to use a dial in-
dicator as shown in FIGURE 5. Put the dial indi-
cator so that it can measure the side–to–side
movement of the valve stem. Lower the valve
away from its valve seat approximately 3 mm
(0.1 in). Move the valve stem from side–to–side
and check the measurement on the dial indicator.
12686
FIGURE 5. CHECK THE CLEARANCE
BETWEEN VALVE GUIDE AND VALVE
c. The maximum clearance between the valve
stems and their valve guides is shown in the EN-
GINE SPECIFICATIONS.
d. If the clearance between the valve stem and its
valve guide is greater than the specification, a
valve with an oversize stem must be installed.
Use a reamer to make the bore the correct diame-
ter for the next oversize valve. See the Parts
Manual for oversize valves.
9. Use a valve spring tester to check the valve springs. A
typical tester is shown in FIGURE 48. The specifica-
tions for the valve springs are shown in the ENGINE
SPECIFICATIONS.

10. Inspect the rocker arm bolts for wear and damage.

Valves And Valve Seats

The condition and alignment of the valves to their valve

seats is important so that the engine will operate correct-
ly. Before any work is done on the valve seats, make sure
the clearance of the valve stems in their valve guides is
within specifications.

A correction for minimum wear and damage to the valve FIGURE 7. REMOVE A STUD FOR A ROCKER
and seat can be done by a process called “lapping”. ARM
When the valve seats are “lapped”, keep the valve seats
within the specifications. Make sure all of the lapping CAUTION
compound is removed from the valve and valve seat Do not try to install an oversize stud without reaming
when the process is completed. the stud hole to the new size. Installation of an over-
size stud without reaming the stud hole can cause
NOTE: Some engines have valve seats that can be re-
cracks in the cylinder head.
placed. If the valve seats cannot be repaired or replaced,
install a new cylinder head. 2. Use a reamer of the correct size for the new oversize
stud. Apply SAE 90 lubricant to the new stud during in-
Damaged valve seats can be repaired with a cutter tool.
stallation. Install the new stud as shown in FIGURE 8.
If the valve seat can not be repaired so that the valve
depth is within specifications, the cylinder head must be
replaced. The specifications for the valve seats are
shown in FIGURE 6.

1. VALVE SEAT
2. MINIMUM THICKNESS
OF VALVE HEAD IS
46° 0.80 mm (0.031 in)
45°

2 1

FIGURE 8. INSTALLATION OF A STUD FOR A

FIGURE 6. VALVE SEAT SPECIFICATIONS FOR
ROCKER ARM
INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES

Studs For The Rocker Arms Hydraulic Valve Lifters, Replacement

Replace a stud that has damaged threads or is loose in the
cylinder head. See the Parts Manual for oversize studs.
1. Remove the old stud. Install a spacer, flat washer, and
nut to the damaged stud. Use a wrench to remove the
damaged stud. See FIGURE 7.
The hydraulic valve lifters normally do not need service
unless they are dirty or damaged. The hydraulic valve
lifters must be clean to operate correctly. If the lifters
make noise or do not operate correctly, replace them.
The lifters can be removed with a flexible magnet after
the push rods are removed.

5
Hydraulic Valve Lifters, Cleaning And
Inspection 4–153, 4–181, 3.0L

WARNING
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic, and
can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning sol-
vents, always follow the solvent manufacturer’s rec-
ommended safety precautions.
Clean all parts in a cleaning solvent and inspect them
carefully. If any parts are damaged or worn, the com-
plete hydraulic valve lifter must be replaced. If the body
of the hydraulic valve lifter is worn, also inspect the bore
in the engine block. If the bottom of the hydraulic valve
lifter is worn or damaged, inspect the camshaft lobe for
wear and damage. The bottom of the lifter must be con-
vex for correct rotation during engine operation.
Cylinder Head, Assembly (See FIGURE 2.)
1. Install the valves in their correct ports. If a spring shim
is used, install it on the valve stem. Install the valve
spring, oil shield, and valve cap or rotator (exhaust
valves) in position on each valve.
2. Use a valve spring compressor to compress the valve
spring. Install a new oil seal on each valve stem. Make
sure the oil seal is not twisted on the valve stem.
3. Install the retainers for the valve spring assembly.
Make sure the retainers fit correctly in the upper groove
of the valve stem. Release the spring compressor tool.
Cylinder Head, Installation
1. Clean the surface of the cylinder head and the top of
the engine block. The surfaces for the gaskets must be
clean. The threads for the head bolts must be clean so
that the correct torque is applied during installation.
2. Install a new gasket for the cylinder head to the engine
block. Do not use a sealant on the gasket.
3. Carefully install the cylinder head to the engine block.
Use a sealant on the capscrews during installation.
Tighten the head bolts evenly in a minimum of three
steps. Tighten the head bolts evenly to a final torque of
130 N.m (95 lbf ft) in the sequence shown in FIGURE 9.
10 6 2 3 7
9 5 1 4
8
6–250
14 10 6 2 3 7 11
13 9 5 1 4 8 12
FIGURE 9. TIGHTENING SEQUENCE FOR THE
CYLINDER HEAD
4. If the hydraulic valve lifters (cam followers) were re-
moved, install them in their positions in the engine
block. Install the side cover for the hydraulic valve lift-
ers.
5. Install the push rods in their positions in the engine.
Make sure each push rod fits in its socket in its hydraulic
valve lifter.
6. Lubricate the rocker arms and rocker arm balls with
engine oil during installation. Install the rocker arms,
rocker arm balls, and rocker arm nuts. Tighten the rock-
er arm nuts until there is zero clearance.
7. Install the intake manifold and exhaust manifold.
Connect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold.
8. Install the carburetor. Connect the carburetor linkage,
fuel line and hoses.
9. Install the alternator and bracket.
10. Install the dipstick tube for engine oil.
11. Connect the coolant hose to the housing for the ther-
mostat.
12. Adjust the clearance of the rocker arm assemblies as
described in “Valve Clearance Adjustment”.
NOTE: If performing repair on the GM 3.0 liter engine
got to step 14.
13. When the valve clearances are adjusted correctly,
install the rocker arm cover. Use a new gasket between
the cylinder head and the rocker arm cover. Install the
retaining bolts and tighten them to 6 Nm (50 lbf in).

6
14. Install the rocker arm cover as described in “Rocker
Arm Cover, Installation”.
15. Install and connect the PCV valve.
16. If the distributor cap was removed, install it. Con-
nect the spark plug wires. Connect the wires and hoses
fastened to brackets on the rocker arm cover.
17. Install the air cleaner, and component parts.
18. Fill the cooling system with the correct coolant. See
the PERIODIC MAINTENANCE section for your
unit.
19. Connect the battery cables at the battery.
20. When the engine can be operated, adjust the ignition
timing and carburetor as necessary. See the PERIODIC
MAINTENANCE section for additional information:
Valve Clearance Adjustment
1. Remove the cover for the rocker arm assembly.
A531
FIGURE 10. VALVE CLEARANCE
ADJUSTMENTS
2. Adjust the valves for each cylinder when the piston is
at top dead center on the compression stroke. Use the ro-
tor in the distributor to find top dead center for each pis-
ton. Make an identification mark for each cylinder on
the distributor housing. Make the marks directly under
the connections of the spark plug wires.
3. Remove the distributor cap. Turn the crankshaft until
the rotor is aligned over the mark for the number one
cylinder. Now adjust both valves for the number one
cylinder. Tighten the nut for the rocker arm while turn-
ing the push rod with your fingers as shown in
FIGURE 10. Tighten the nut just until the movement of
the push rod stops. This condition is zero clearance.
Now tighten the nut one more turn.
4. Turn the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation
until the rotor aligns over the next mark. (For the six cyl-
inder engine, the valves for the number five cylinder can
now be adjusted. For the four cylinder engine, the valves
for the number three cylinder can now be adjusted.) Ad-
just the valves as described in step 3.
5. Follow the same procedure as described in step 4 until
all the valves are adjusted.
6. Install the distributor cap and the cover for the rocker
arms.
Rocker Arm Cover, Installation
1. Remove all gasket material from the cylinder head
and the rocker arm cover.
2. Coat the cylinder head rail with Loctite Flange Seal-
ant.
3. Install a new gasket onto the cylinder head rail.
4. Apply Loctite Flange Sealant around the bolt holes of
the gasket, and install the rocker arm cover.
5. Tighten the rocker arm cover bolts to 6 Nm (50 lbf in)
in the sequence shown in FIGURE 11.
2 3
4 1 5
FIGURE 11. ROCKER ARM COVER
TIGHTENING SEQUENCE
7
TIMING GEAR COVER 4. Remove the screws that hold the oil sump to the tim-
ing gear cover. Remove the screws that hold the timing
Removal gear cover to the engine block.
NOTE: The oil seal can be replaced without removing
the timing gear cover. The crankshaft pulley and vibra-
tion dampener must be removed. The oil seal can be re-
moved with a prybar. Work carefully so that the the sheet
metal of the timing gear cover is not bent or damaged 1
during removal or installation of the oil seal. The re-
placement of the oil seal is easier if the timing gear cover
is removed from the engine.
2
1. Drain the coolant system. Remove the radiator.

2. Remove the drive belts. Remove the pulley from the

vibration dampener.

NOTE: The vibration dampener on the 3.0L engine is 11699

pressed on to the crankshaft. It must be pulled off with a 1. VIBRATION DAMPENER

2. TOOL FOR REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
puller. OF VIBRATION DAMPENER

3. Remove the vibration dampener. Use a tool that pulls FIGURE 13. VIBRATION DAMPENER
on the center of the vibration dampener. (A special tool,
GM 4–153, 4–181 and 3.0L. Remove the timing gear
GM Part No. J–23523 is available.) See FIGURE 13.
cover.
Do not use a puller that pulls on the outside diameter of
the vibration dampener. GM 6–250. Pull the timing gear away from the engine
block only enough to cut the front gasket of the oil sump.
Use a sharp knife and cut the gasket even with the edge
1. WOODRUFF KEY 2 of the engine block. Remove the timing gear cover.
2. ENGINE BLOCK 1
3. HUB 5. Remove the oil seal from the timing gear cover. Do
4. VIBRATION DAMPENER not bend or damage the sheet metal of the timing gear
6 cover when removing the oil seal.
Installation
1. Make sure the gasket surfaces on the engine block,
timing gear cover, and oil sump are clean.
2. Install a new oil seal. Carefully press the oil seal into
the timing gear cover. Make sure the lip of the oil seal is
toward the engine.

5 3. Install a new gasket if your engine uses a gasket be-

tween the timing gear cover and engine block. Apply a
thin coat of sealant to both sides of the gasket.
3
4
4. Install a centering tool in the oil seal. See FIGURE 14.
12673 5. PULLEY
6. TIMING COVER
(A special tool, GM Part No. J–34995 is available for
GM 4–153, 4–181 and 3.0L and GM Part No. 23042 is
FIGURE 12. TIMING GEAR COVER AND available for GM 6–250.) The oil seal must be aligned so
PULLEYS that it is evenly in position around the hub. An oil seal

8
that is not correctly aligned with the hub will be dam-
aged and will leak oil.
FIGURE 14. CENTERING TOOL, TIMING GEAR
COVER
5. GM 4–153, 4–181 and 3.0L. Install the timing gear
cover. Install the two screws for the oil sump and the
screws for the timing gear cover and tighten the screws
with your fingers. Make sure the oil seal is correctly
aligned. Tighten the screws to 10 N.m (90 lbf in).
GM 6–250. Cut the tabs from the oil seal for the front of
the oil sump as shown in FIGURE 15. Apply a thin coat
of sealant to both side of the gasket and put it in position.
Apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of RTV sealant at the joint
between the gaskets at the edge of the engine block. In-
stall the timing gear cover. Install the screws for the oil
sump and the screws for the timing gear cover and tight-
en the screws with your fingers. Make sure the oil seal is
correctly aligned. Tighten the screws to 9 N.m (80 lbf
in).
FIGURE 15. SEAL MODIFICATION FOR THE
FRONT OF THE OIL SUMP, GM 6–250
6. Remove the centering tool.
NOTE: The vibration dampener on the 3.0L engine is
pressed on to the crankshaft and does not use a capscrew.
7. Install the vibration dampener. Use a tool that presses
on the center of the vibration dampener. (A special tool,
GM Part No. J–23523 is available.) See FIGURE 13.
Do not use a tool that pushes on the outside diameter of
the vibration dampener. Make sure the hub of the vibra-
tion dampener is against the crankshaft gear. Tighten the
capscrew for the vibration dampener. See TORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS.
8. When used, install the pulley on the vibration dam-
pener. Tighten the capscrews to 44 N.m (35 lbf ft). In-
stall the drive belts.
9. If the coolant system is complete, fill the system with
coolant and check for leaks.
CAMSHAFT
Removal
NOTE. The engine is removed from the lift truck for
this procedure.
1. Remove the drive belts, fan, and pulley.
2. Remove the timing gear cover. See the procedure un-
der TIMING GEAR COVER, Removal.
3. Remove the rocker arms and push rods as described in
“Cylinder Head, Disassembly”. Put the parts in a rack so
that they will be installed again in the same position.
4. Remove the side cover for access to the hydraulic
valve lifters. Remove the hydraulic valve lifters and put
them in a rack so that they will be installed again in the
same position in the engine block.
5. Remove the fuel pump.
6. Align the timing marks on the timing gears as shown
in FIGURE 16. On engines with holes in the timing
gear, remove the two capscrews that hold the thrust plate
to the engine block. On engines with a capscrew for the
timing gear, remove the capscrew and the gear. Remove
the two capscrews for the thrust plate.
7. Carefully pull the camshaft from the engine block.
Give enough support to the camshaft so that the bearings
are not damaged.
9
 CAUTION
Make sure the force is applied to the hub of the cam-
shaft gear or the camshaft gear will be damaged.
Make sure the woodruff key does not damage the
thrust plate during removal or installation.

Check the surfaces of the camshaft for wear and dam-

age. See the ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS, Camshaft.
1
Camshaft Bearings, Removal
Special tools are required to remove and install the cam-
shaft bearings. See FIGURE 18. Remove the front and
2 rear bearings last.

1. Remove the plug in the bore for the camshaft at the

rear of the engine block.

1. TIMING MARKS 2. Install the removal and installation tool as shown in

2. CAPSCREWS FOR THRUST PLATE 8913 FIGURE 18. Remove the intermediate bearings.
FIGURE 16. TIMING GEARS 3. Install the head of the special tool on the end of a driv-
er. Remove the front and rear bearings by pushing them
Inspection toward the center of the engine block. See FIGURE 19.
1. Measure the amount of clearance between the thrust
plate and the camshaft as shown in FIGURE 17. If the
clearance is greater than 0.203 mm (0.008 in), replace
the thrust plate.
If the camshaft gear or the thrust plate must be replaced,
the camshaft gear must be removed. A press must be
used to remove and install the camshaft gear on the cam-
shaft.

A604

FIGURE 18. CAMSHAFT BEARINGS,

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

Camshaft Bearings, Installation

CAUTION
A601
The holes for the oil passages in the camshaft bear-
ings must be aligned with the oil passages in the bore
FIGURE 17. CHECK THE CLEARANCE of the engine block. If the oil passages are not aligned
BETWEEN THRUST PLATE AND THE correctly, the loss of lubrication will cause a failure of
CAMSHAFT the camshaft bearings or other parts of the engine.

10

FIGURE 19. CAMSHAFT BEARINGS,
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
1. Install the front and rear camshaft bearings first.
These bearings will be guides for installation of the in-
termediate bearings. See FIGURE 19. Use the special
tool to install the front and rear camshaft bearings.
GM 4–153, 4–181 and 3.0L. The front camshaft bear-
ing must be 3.0 mm (0.12 in) below the surface of the
engine block so that the oil passage to the nozzle for the
timing gears is open.
2. Install the intermediate camshaft bearings. Use the
special tool as shown in FIGURE 18.
3. Install a new plug in the bore in the rear end of the en-
gine block. The surface of the plug must be even with the
surface of the engine block or not greater than 0.80 mm
(0.03 in) below the surface.
DISTRIBUTOR
NOTE: This section has only the removal and installa-
tion procedures for the distributor. The service proce-
dures for the ignition system are found in the following
sections:
THE HIGH ENERGY IGNITION SYSTEM,
2200 SRM 107.
THE MICROPROCESSOR SPARK TIM-
ING SYSTEM (MSTS), 2200 SRM 463
Removal
CAUTION
Carefully lift and release the lock tabs on the connec-
tors to the distributor. The lock tabs can be easily
broken if too much force is applied with a screwdriv-
er or other tool.
Never let the TACH CONN. terminal to touch a
ground. The HEI module or the ignition coil will be
damaged.
1. Disconnect the battery negative (ground) cable.
2. If removal of the spark plug wires are not required for
the repairs, leave them connected to the distributor cap.
Remove the two capscrews that fasten the distributor
cap to the distributor. Move the distributor cap away
from the work area.
3. Disconnect the distributor 4–terminal connector.
4. Disconnect the ignition coil connector.
5. Remove the bolt and clamp that hold the distributor in
the engine. Make a note of the positions of the rotor to
distributor housing and the distributor to the engine.
Slowly pull the distributor from the engine until the ro-
tor just stops turning counterclockwise and make a note
of the position of the rotor. This position must be used
when the distributor is installed again.
If the engine has been rotated after the distributor was
removed, the following procedure must be used before
the distributor is installed again:
a. Remove the No. 1 spark plug.
b. Put a finger over the No. 1 spark plug hole and
slowly rotate the engine until pressure is felt on
the compression stroke.
c. Align the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley to
0° (TDC) on the engine timing indicator.
d. Turn the distributor rotor to point between the po-
sitions on the distributor cap for No. 1 and No. 4
(or No. 1 and No. 6 for six cylinders) spark plug
wires.
e. Install the distributor in the engine. The rotor and
shaft will rotate a few degrees when the gear on
the distributor shaft engages the drive gear on the
engine cam. The timing is correct if the rotor
points at the position on the distributor cap for the
No. 1 spark plug wire.
f. Continue with the installation of the distributor as
described in “Installation”.
Installation
1. Put the rotor and distributor in the same position as it
was removed from the engine.
11
2. Install the clamp and bolt. Tighten the bolt with your
hand.
3. Install the distributor connector(s) at the distributor..
4. Install the ignition coil connector.
5. Install the distributor cap and the two capscrews. If
the spark plug wires were removed. install them in the
correct sequence.
6. Connect the battery negative cable.
7. Start the engine and check the engine timing. See the
section for PERIODIC MAINTENANCE for your lift
truck for procedures on Ignition Timing.
8. Tighten the bolt for the distributor clamp. See
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
LUBRICATION SYSTEM
Oil Sump, Removal
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2. Remove the dipstick. Drain the engine oil.
3. Remove the starter.
4. Remove the bolts that fasten the oil sump to the engine
block. Remove the oil sump.
Oil Sump, Installation
1. Clean the sealing surfaces on the oil sump and the en-
gine block. Remove old gasket material or sealant.
NOTE: Some engines use a gasket to seal the joint be-
tween the oil sump and the engine block. Earlier produc-
tion engines use a two–piece gasket and separate rear oil
seal for the crankshaft. Some later production engines
use a one–piece gasket. If a gasket is used in your en-
gine, apply a thin coat of liquid sealant to the gasket sur-
faces to hold it in position on the oil sump during instal-
lation. Other later production engines use an RTV
12
sealant between the oil sump and the engine block. If
your engine uses only an RTV sealant, apply a 3.0 mm
(0.13 in) bead of sealant around the sealing surfaces of
the oil sump.
2. Apply RTV sealant or install the gasket on the oil
sump.
3. Install the capscrews that fasten the oil sump to the en-
gine block. Tighten the 1/4 – 20 capscrews to 10 N.m (7
lbf ft). Tighten the 5/16 – 18 capscrews to 19 N.m (14 lbf
ft).
Oil Pump, Removal
1. Remove the oil sump.
2. Remove the mount bolts and remove the oil pump and
screen assembly.
Oil Pump, Disassembly and Repair
(See FIGURE 20.)
1. Disassemble the oil pump as necessary for cleaning
and inspection. Remove the four screws that fasten the
cover (4) to the pump body (8). Remove the cover and
gasket.
2. Make an index mark on the gears so that they can be
installed again in the same position to each other. Re-
move the gears. Do not remove the screen and tube as-
sembly (9) unless it is damaged.
WARNING
The relief valve has a compressed spring. When the
pin is removed, do not permit a sudden release of the
spring and cause an injury.
3. Remove the pin (3), spring (2), and the relief valve
(1).
4. Inspect the gears and the pump body for wear and
damage. If the parts are worn or damaged, replace the oil
pump. Parts are not available for repairs.
 4. Use a new gasket and install the cover (4). Tighten the
3 screws to 8 N.m (70 lbf in). Turn the drive shaft with
4
your hand to check for a smooth operation.
Oil Pump, Installation
5 1. Install the oil pump and screen assembly. Make sure
2 the screen is parallel to the bottom of the oil sum when
the oil pump is installed.
7 6
1 2. Install the oil sump.

PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

ASSEMBLIES
8 Connecting Rod Bearings, Replacement
NOTE: The connecting rod bearings are available in a
standard size and several undersizes. See the Parts
Manual for bearing sizes. If a bearing on a journal is
worn, both the upper and lower half of the bearing must
9 be replaced.
1. Remove the oil sump and the oil pump.
2. Before the cap for the connecting rod is removed,
A579 mark the connecting rod and cap with the cylinder num-
ber so that the parts will be installed again in their origi-
nal positions. Remove the cap for the connecting rod
5. GASKET bearing and the lower bearing half.
6. DRIVE GEAR 3. Push the connecting rod away from the crankshaft and
1. RELIEF VALVE 7. IDLER GEAR
2. SPRING 8. PUMP BODY remove the upper bearing half. Wipe the oil from the
3. PIN 9. SCREEN AND bearing halves and the bearing journal.
4. COVER TUBE ASSEMBLY
4. Use a micrometer to measure the bearing journal. The
FIGURE 20. OIL PUMP bearing journal must be within the following specifica-
tions:
Four Cylinder Engines:
Out–of–round less than 0.0127 mm (0.0005 in)
Oil Pump, Assembly (See FIGURE 20.) Taper less than 0.0127 mm (0.0005 in)

1. Use a sealant when replacement of the screen and tube
assembly is necessary. Do not damage the tube during
installation. Make sure that the surface of the screen as-
sembly is parallel to the bottom surface of the engine
block.
2. If the relief valve was disassembled, install the relief
valve (1), spring (2), and pin (3).
3. Install the gears in the pump body. Align the identifi-
cation marks. Make sure that the smooth side of the idler
gear (7) is toward the cover (4).
Six Cylinder Engines
Out–of–round less than 0.0254 mm (0.001 in)
Taper less than 0.0254 mm (0.001 in)
If the bearing journals are not within specifications, the
crankshaft must be removed and the bearing journal
ground to an undersize. If the bearing journal can not be
repaired so that the bearing journal is a correct under-
size, the crankshaft must be replaced. See the ENGINE
SPECIFICATIONS, Crankshaft.
5. If the bearing journal is within specifications, mea-
sure the clearance between the new bearing and the

13
crankshaft. Use Plastigage or equivalent to check the
clearance:
a. Put a piece of Plastigage across the full width of
the bearing journal as shown in FIGURE 21. Do
not rotate the crankshaft when the Plastigage is
between the bearing and its journal.
FIGURE 21. PLASTIGAGE ON A BEARING
JOURNAL
b. Remove the bearing cap. The Plastigage will be
compressed and wider and will adhere to either
the bearing or its journal. Use the scale on the en-
velope for the Plastigage to measure the width of
the plastic at its widest point. The scale will indi-
cate the clearance in millimetres or thousandths
of an inch. See FIGURE 22.
FIGURE 22. MEASURE THE PLASTIGAGE ON
A BEARING JOURNAL
c. If the clearance is greater than the specifications,
select a new undersize bearing set and install it.
Measure the clearance again. If the clearance can
not meet specifications with the available under-
size bearings, the bearing journal must be ground
to a new undersize. If the bearing journal is al-
ready at the maximum undersize, the crankshaft
must be replaced.
14
d. If the clearance is within specifications, lubricate
the bearing with engine oil and install the bearing
and bearing cap. Tighten the nuts on the bearing
cap. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
6. When all of the rod bearings have been replaced, use
the following procedure to check the side clearances be-
tween the connecting rods and the crankshaft:
a. Use a hammer to lightly hit the connecting rod
parallel to the crankshaft journal to make sure
there is a clearance.
b. Measure the clearance between the caps for the
connecting rods and the crankshaft. See
FIGURE 23.
Piston And Connecting Rod Assemblies,
Removal
1. Remove the oil sump and the oil pump.
2. Remove the cylinder head as described in Cylinder
Head, Removal.
FIGURE 23. MEASURE THE SIDE
CLEARANCE, CONNECTING RODS
3. If the engine has been in service for many hours, a
ridge can be worn in the top of the cylinder. This ridge
can be removed with a ridge reamer tool. Turn the crank-
shaft to lower the piston to the bottom of the stroke in its
cylinder. Put a cloth on top of the piston for a collector of
metal particles. Remove the ridge at the top of the cylin-
der.
4. Clean the carbon from the top of each cylinder.
5. Put an identification mark on the top of each piston.
6. Remove the caps and bearings from each connecting
rod. Keep the caps and bearings with their original pis-
ton assemblies. Mark the caps so that they will be in-
stalled again in their original positions. Do not mix the
parts.
7. Push the connecting rod and piston from the cylinder.
Temporarily install the bearing cap on the connecting
rod to keep the parts together.
Disassembly
CAUTION
The pistons are aluminum alloy and can be damaged
if they are hit with a hard object. The grooves for the
piston rings are machined to close tolerances. Use a
tool made to clean the grooves of the piston rings. Do
not use a wire brush to clean a piston.
1. Remove the piston rings from the pistons. Use a press
to remove the piston pins from the piston. See
FIGURE 24.
2. Use solvent to clean the pistons and connecting rods.
Use compressed air to dry the parts. Make sure that the
holes for oil passages are clean.
FIGURE 24. PISTON PIN REMOVAL
Piston, Cleaning And Inspection
Inspect the pistons for wear, cracks, and damage. Re-
place a piston that is worn or damaged.
NOTE: If the cylinder bore must be repaired the piston
must be changed to the correct oversize. Check the
clearance of the piston in its cylinder after the surface of
the cylinder bore has been finished with a hone.
Check the clearance of the piston pin in the piston. The
normal clearance is shown in the ENGINE SPECIFI-
CATIONS. The piston pin will normally fall from the
hole in the piston by its own weight. The piston pin is a
press fit in the connecting rod. The piston and piston pin
are a matched set and must be replaced as a unit if the
clearances are greater than the specifications.
Cylinder Bores, Inspection And Repair
Inspect the cylinder bores for wear and damage. Mea-
sure the cylinder bores in several positions as shown in
FIGURE 25. Measure the cylinder bore at right angles
to the centerline to find any distortion from wear. A cyl-
inder that is out–of–round greater than 0.05 mm (0.002
in) must be repaired.
FIGURE 25. MEASURE THE CYLINDER BORE
Measure the cylinder bore in positions from top to bot-
tom to find any taper from wear. A normal wear pattern
for a cylinder bore is shown in FIGURE 26. A cylinder
that has a taper [measurement “A” that is 0.127 mm
(0.005 in) greater than measurement “B”] must have a
new bore. A tool called a hone can be used to remove a
small amount of taper from a cylinder bore. Use a boring
machine to repair a badly worn cylinder. The boring ma-
chine will make a more accurate cylinder bore. The hone
is then used to finish the surface of the cylinder bore.
15
 Piston Rings
13 mm NOTE: Check the clearance of the piston rings in the
(0.5 in)
A
cylinder after the surface of the cylinder has been fin-
ished with a hone. New piston rings are available for the
several piston size. See the Parts Manual for sizes. The
100 mm piston rings must match the size of the piston on which
(4.0 in)
they are installed. Check the side clearance and the end
clearance of the piston rings as described in the follow-
B
ing paragraphs.

FIGURE 26. PATTERN FOR NORMAL
CYLINDER WEAR
A cylinder bore that has been repaired with a hone or a
boring machine must be fitted with a piston that is the
correct size. Measure the outer diameter of the piston
and the inner diameter of the cylinder bore as shown in
FIGURE 27. Using different oversize pistons in the en-
gine does not affect the dynamic balance of the engine.
Replacement pistons from standard size to 0.030 in
oversize normally have the same weight. The clearance
specifications between a piston and its cylinder bore is
shown in the ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS.
Each compression ring has a mark on one surface. This
mark must be toward the top of the cylinder when the
piston ring is installed. The No. 1 compression ring nor-
mally has a chrome or molybdenum surface.
The oil control ring has three pieces. There are two thin
steel rings separated by a spacer.
1. Measure the clearance between the piston ring and the
groove in the piston as shown in FIGURE 28. The clear-
ances are shown in the ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS.
Replace the piston if the clearances are greater than the
specifications.

46 mm
(1.8 in)

PISTON GAUGE POINT

57 mm
(2.25 in)

BORE
GAUGE
POINT
A595

FIGURE 28. CHECK THE CLEARANCE

FIGURE 27. GAUGE POINTS FOR PISTON AND BETWEEN THE PISTON RING AND THE
CYLINDER BORE GROOVE

16
2. Measure the end clearance of each piston ring as
shown in FIGURE 29. The end clearances are shown in
the ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS. Install the piston ring
into the cylinder where it will be used. Use a thickness
gauge to measure the amount of end clearance. Replace
the piston if the clearances are greater than the specifica-
tions.
1. Assemble the connecting rod to the piston. Make sure
the orientation of the connecting rod and piston are cor-
rect as described in the NOTE above. Use a press to in-
stall the piston pin into the piston and connecting rod.
Lubricate the piston pin with engine oil during installa-
tion.
2. Check the clearances of the piston rings as described
in “Piston Rings”. Install the piston rings on the piston
as shown in FIGURE 31.

A – POSITION OF FAN END OF ENGINE

THE GAP FOR THE
SPACER OF THE
OIL RING B
B – POSITION OF THE
GAP FOR THE C A D
OIL RING
C – POSITION OF THE
GAP FOR THE B
A593 SECOND
COMPRESSION RING
FIGURE 29. CHECK THE END CLEARANCE OF D – POSITION OF THE GAP FOR THE FIRST
THE PISTON RINGS COMPRESSION RING

FIGURE 31. ARRANGEMENT OF THE PISTON

Assembly RINGS ON THE PISTON

NOTE: There are notches cast in the top of all pistons to
indicate the correct assembly and installation. The pis-
tons must always be installed with this notch toward the
fan end of the engine. See FIGURE 33.
The connecting rods have a notch cast in the bearing
journal as shown in FIGURE 30. This notch must be op-
posite the notch on the top of the piston when the piston
and connecting rod are assembled.
Piston And Connecting Rod Assemblies,
Installation
1. Lubricate the assembly with engine oil during instal-
lation. Arrange the piston rings on the piston as shown in
FIGURE 31. Install a ring compressor on the piston as
shown in FIGURE 32.

FIGURE 32. INSTALL A RING COMPRESSOR

2. Make sure that the notch in the piston is toward the fan
end of the engine as shown in FIGURE 33. Install the
FIGURE 30. CONNECTING ROD piston and connecting rod assemblies in the cylinder
IDENTIFICATION
bores.

17
 FAN END OF ENGINE

THE NOTCH IN THE PISTON MUST BE

TOWARD THE FAN END OF THE ENGINE

FIGURE 33. POSITION OF THE PISTON IN THE

CYLINDER

3. Install the bearings and the caps for the connecting

rods. Tighten the nuts. See TORQUE SPECIFI-
CATIONS. Check the side clearance of each connecting FIGURE 34. REAR MAIN BEARING
rod after the bearing cap is installed. See the procedure REPLACEMENT
in the paragraphs under “Connecting Rod Bearings, Re-
b. Put some tape on a pair of pliers to make soft
placement”.
jaws. Use the pliers to hold the thrust surface of
the bearing to the oil control ring of the crank-
4. Install the cylinder head as described in “Cylinder
shaft. See FIGURE 34. Turn the crankshaft to re-
Head, Installation”.
move the upper bearing half.

5. Install the oil sump and the oil pump. c. Lubricate a new bearing half of the correct size
with engine oil. Insert the end of the bearing with-
out the notch between the crankshaft and the side
CRANKSHAFT of the engine block with the notch.
d. Use the pliers described in step b to rotate the
Main Bearings, Replacement bearing half into position.
4. The other crankshaft journals have oil holes. Use the
NOTE: The following procedure is for replacement of
following procedure to replace the upper half of the
the main bearings without removing the crankshaft
main bearing:
from the engine.
a. Put a thin rod or a bent cotter pin through the oil
1. Remove the oil sump and the oil pump as described in hole in the crankshaft to contact the main bearing
the procedures under LUBRICATION SYSTEM. half.
b. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise as seen from the
2. Remove the cap on the main bearing that needs re- fan end of the engine. This movement will rotate
placement. Remove the bearing half from the cap. the main bearing half from the engine block.

3. The rear main bearing does not have an oil hole. Use
the following procedure to replace the upper half of the
rear main bearing:
a. Use a small drift punch and a hammer to start the
bearing half from the engine block.
c. Lubricate a new bearing half of the correct size
with engine oil. Insert the end of the bearing with-
out the notch between the crankshaft and the side
of the engine block with the notch.
d. Rotate the main bearing half into position in the
engine block.

18
Oil Seal For The Rear Main Bearing, 2. Use a small screwdriver to remove the lower half of
Replacement (GM 4–181 and 3.0L Only) the oil seal from the main bearing cap. See FIGURE 37.

The oil seal is a one–piece unit that can be replaced with-

out removal of the oil sump or the crankshaft. See 1
FIGURE 36. The transmission must be disconnected
from the engine.

1. Remove the flywheel.

2. Use a screwdriver or small prybar to carefully remove

the oil seal from the engine. 2
5
3. Clean the surface of the engine block area for the oil
seal.
3
4. Lubricate the oil seal with engine oil and carefully in-
stall it.

5. Install the flywheel and tighten the bolts. See 4 2

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.

Oil Seal For The Rear Main Bearing,

Replacement (Engines That Have A
Two–Piece Oil Seal) 1. ENGINE BLOCK
2. MAIN BEARINGS
NOTE: The following procedure is for replacement of 3. CRANKSHAFT
4. MAIN BEARING CAPS
the oil seal for the rear main bearing without removing 5. REAR OIL SEAL
the crankshaft from the engine. Always replace both
FIGURE 36. GM 3.0L, CRANKSHAFT, MAIN
halves of the oil seal as a unit.
BEARINGS, AND OIL SEAL
This procedure requires careful work so that the oil seal
is not damaged during installation. The seal bead in the
channel on the outside diameter of the oil seal must be
protected during installation. An oil seal installation
tool can be made from a piece of 0.10 mm (0.004 in)
shim stock. See FIGURE 35.

13 mm 0.10 mm (0.004 in)

(0.5 in)

4.3 mm
(0.17 in)
FIGURE 37. OIL SEAL, REMOVAL OF LOWER
FIGURE 35. INSTALLATION TOOL FOR REAR HALF
OIL SEAL
3. Use a hammer and a small punch. Lightly hit one end
1. The oil sump and the oil pump must be removed. Re- of the upper oil seal half to rotate it until it can be re-
move the cap for the rear main bearing. moved with a pair of pliers. See FIGURE 38.

19

FIGURE 38. OIL SEAL, REMOVAL OF UPPER
HALF
4. Clean the area for the oil seal in the engine block and
main bearing cap.
5. Lubricate the lips and bead of the oil seal with engine
oil. Keep oil from the end surfaces of the oil seal.
6. Put the tip of the tool shown in FIGURE 35. in posi-
tion between the crankshaft and the cavity for the oil seal
in the engine block. Put the oil seal between the engine
block and the tip of the tool so that the bead on the oil
seal is against the tip of the tool. Make sure the lip of the
oil seal is toward the fan end of the engine. See
FIGURE 39.
FIGURE 39. OIL SEAL HALF, REAR MAIN
BEARING
7. Carefully rotate the oil seal around the crankshaft un-
til both ends are even with the surface of the engine
block. Use the tool to protect the bead on the oil seal
from the sharp edge of the engine block.
8. Carefully remove the tool. Make sure the bead is not
damaged.
9. Install the lower half of the oil seal in the cap for the
main bearing. Make sure the ends of the oil seal are even
with the surfaces of the main bearing cap.
20
10. Remove any engine oil from the ends of the oil seal,
both upper and lower halves. Apply a thin coat of sealant
ONLY to the ends of the oil seal. Do not permit any
sealant on the surfaces where the main bearing cap joins
the engine block. See FIGURE 40.
FIGURE 40. APPLY SEALANT TO ENDS OF
THE OIL SEAL
11. Install the cap for the rear main bearing. and tighten
the capscrews to an initial torque of 14 N.m (10 lbf ft).
Use a hammer to lightly hit the crankshaft and move it
forward against the rear main bearing. Then use the
hammer to lightly hit the crankshaft and move it back-
ward against the rear main bearing. This procedure is to
align the thrust surfaces on the rear main bearing. Tight-
en the capscrews for the main bearing cap. See
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
Crankshaft, Removal
1. Remove the flywheel housing and the flywheel.
2. Remove the oil sump and the oil pump as described in
the procedures under LUBRICATION SYSTEM.
3. Remove the crankshaft pulley or vibration dampener
and timing gear cover as described in the procedures un-
der TIMING GEAR COVER.
4. Remove the bearing caps for the connecting rods as
described in the procedures under PISTON AND CON-
NECTING ROD ASSEMBLIES. If the piston and con-
necting rod assemblies will not be removed for repair,
push them to the top of their bores so that they are away
from the crankshaft.
5. Remove the caps for the main bearings. Make sure
that there are identification marks on the caps so that
they can be installed again in the same position.
6. Carefully remove the crankshaft from the engine
block.
7. Remove the oil seal for the rear main bearing. Re-
move the main bearings from the crank case and the
main bearing caps.
Inspection and Repair
1. Clean the crankshaft with solvent and dry it with com-
pressed air.
2. Inspect the crankshaft for cracks or other damage.
3. Inspect the crankshaft for wear and damage. See
FIGURE 41. Use a micrometer to measure the journals
for the bearings of the crankshaft. Do the measurement
at different positions to see if the surface of the bearing is
round. The correct sizes are given in the ENGINE
SPECIFICATIONS.
9741
9734
FIGURE 41. CRANKSHAFT INSPECTION
4. If the crankshaft journals must be repaired, they can
be ground to a smaller (undersize) than the original size.
See the PARTS MANUAL for available bearing sizes.
When the crankshaft is assembled by the manufacturer,
the main bearings are specially selected to obtain close
tolerances. For this reason, you can find one–half of a
standard size insert with one–half of a 0.001 in under-
size insert. This combination will decrease the clearance
0.0005 in from using a full standard bearing.
When a production crankshaft can not be fitted with this
method, the main journal is then ground 0.009 in under-
size. Only those main bearing journals that can not be
fitted with standard, 0.001 in or 0.002 in undersize main
bearing will be ground. A 0.009 in and a 0.010 in under-
size bearings will be selected as described to obtain
close tolerances.
A production crankshaft that has been ground will have
the following identification:
• The crankshaft journal that has been ground will
have a “9” marked in the metal of the crankshaft
next to the journal. A spot of light green paint is
also added to the crankshaft.
• The main bearing cap is also marked with green
paint.
How To Check The Clearance Between The
Main Bearings And Their Journals
1. Use Plastigage or equivalent to check the clearance.
The procedure is similar for both connecting rod bear-
ings and main bearings. If the engine has been removed
from the lift truck put the engine so that the crankshaft is
up. The weight of the crankshaft is against the upper
bearing half and the total clearance can be measured cor-
rectly. If the engine is still in the lift truck, the crankshaft
must have a support to remove any additional clearance
between the upper bearing half and its journal.
2. All main bearing caps must be installed and their
capscrews tightened to the specifications.
3. Check the rear main bearing first. Remove the cap for
the rear main bearing. The procedure for checking the
clearance of the other bearings is similar.
4. Clean the oil from the bearing half and journal to be
checked. Put a piece of Plastigage across the full width
of the bearing journal as shown in FIGURE 21. Do not
rotate the crankshaft when the Plastigage is between the
main bearing and its journal.
5. Install the main bearing cap and tighten the
capscrews. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. The
capscrews must be tightened to their final torque or
there will be an error in the measurement.
21
6. Remove the main bearing cap. The Plastigage will be
compressed and wider and will adhere to either the bear-
ing or its journal. Use the scale on the envelope for the
Plastigage to measure the width of the plastic at its wid-
est point. The scale will indicate the clearance in milli-
metres or thousandths of an inch. See FIGURE 22.
7. If the clearance is greater than the specifications, se-
lect a new undersize bearing set and install it. Measure
the clearance again. If the clearance can not meet speci-
fications with the available undersize bearings, the bear-
ing journal must be ground to a new undersize. If the
bearing journal is already at the maximum undersize,
the crankshaft must be replaced.
FIGURE 42. MEASURE THE AXIAL
CLEARANCE OF THE CRANKSHAFT
8. If the clearance is within specifications, lubricate the
bearing with engine oil and install the main bearing and
bearing cap. Tighten the capscrews on the main bearing
cap to the correct specifications.
9. Turn the crankshaft to make sure it rotates smoothly.
10. Check the axial clearance between the rear main
bearing and the thrust surface. Push the crankshaft for-
ward. See FIGURE 42. Measure the clearance between
the crankshaft and the thrust surface of the rear bearing.
The correct clearance is 0.05 to 0.15 mm (0.002 to 0.006
in).
22
Installation
1. If the engine has a two–piece oil seal, install a new oil
seal for the crankshaft. Apply engine oil to the oil seal
during installation. Do not permit any oil on the ends of
the oil seal. See FIGURE 40. Install the oil seal so that
the lip is toward the fan end of the engine. See “Oil Seal
For The Rear Main Bearing, Replacement (Engines
That Have A Two–Piece Oil Seal)” for additional infor-
mation about the rear oil seal.
2. Lubricate new main bearing halves with engine oil
and install them in the bearing housing of the engine
block.
3. Carefully install the crankshaft in the engine block.
4. Lubricate the lower halves of the main bearings and
install them in their caps. Install each main bearing cap
in its position on the engine block. Make sure each main
bearing cap is installed in its original position. If a main
bearing cap is not installed correctly, there can be an
alignment problem which will cause rapid wear and
possible damage to the engine.
5. Use the following procedure to install the cap for the
rear main bearing:
a. Install the cap for the rear main bearing. and tight-
en the capscrews to an initial torque of 14 N.m
(10 lbf ft). Use a hammer to lightly hit the crank-
shaft and move it forward against the rear main
bearing. Then use the hammer to lightly hit the
crankshaft and move it backward against the rear
main bearing. This procedure is to align the thrust
surfaces on the rear main bearing. Tighten the
capscrews for the main bearing cap. See
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
b. Check the clearance between the rear main bear-
ing and the thrust surface. Push the crankshaft
forward. Measure the axial clearance between the
crankshaft and the thrust surface of the rear bear-
ing. See FIGURE 42.
6. Check the clearance between the main bearing and its
crankshaft journal. See “How To Check The Clearance
Between The Main Bearings And Their Journals”.
7. Install the piston assemblies as described in “Piston
And Connecting Rod Assemblies, Installation”.
8. Install the oil pump and the oil sump as described in
the LUBRICATION SYSTEM.
FLYWHEEL AND FLYWHEEL HOUSING
MODEL DIMENSION “X”
Some models of lift trucks have an oil clutch. Before the S/H 2.00–3.00XL 28.4 to 28.6 mm
(S/H40–60XL) (1.118 to 1.125 in)
flywheel is removed, check for an even surface on the
face of the flywheel. Fasten a dial indicator to the engine
as shown in FIGURE 43. Turn the flywheel and check
the variations indicated by the dial indicator. Make a 1
note of the high indication and the low indication. If the
difference between the indications are more than 0.20
mm (0.008 in), replace the flywheel. 2

4
DIMENSION “X”

1. FLYWHEEL
8911
2. SHIMS 5
FIGURE 43. CHECK THE SURFACE OF THE 3. CRANKSHAFT
4. DRIVE GEAR 6
FLYWHEEL
5. DRIVEN GEAR
ARRANGEMENT
(OIL CLUTCH)
6. DRIVEN GEAR
Some lift trucks have a hydraulic pump drive assembly ARRANGEMENT
(POWERSHIFT
that is part of the flywheel and flywheel housing. See
TRANSMISSION) 11748
THE HYDRAULIC PUMP DRIVE ASSEMBLY,
1900 SRM 64 for additional information on the FIGURE 44. FLYWHEEL ARRANGEMENT
S30–120E, S40–50F, H30–60H, H40–60J, H60JS, and WITH HYDRAULIC PUMP DRIVE ASSEMBLY
H60–110E lift trucks. See THE HYDRAULIC PUMP
Flywheel, Removal (See FIGURE 45.)
DRIVE ASSEMBLY, 1900 SRM 339 for additional in-
formation on the S/H2.00–3.00XL (S/H40–60XL) lift 1. Remove the engine from the lift truck and separate the
trucks. engine from the transmission.

23
2. Make alignment marks between the flywheel and the Ring Gear, Replacement
crankshaft so the parts will be assembled again in their
original positions. WARNING
Wear eye protection for this operation to prevent eye
3. Remove the oil sump and the rear main bearing cap injury from metal chips. You will be using a hammer
from the engine. and driver to remove the ring gear.
1. Use the following procedure to remove the ring gear
on the flywheel:
a. During removal or installation, do not heat the
1 ring gear greater than 230°C (450°F). Heat the
circumference of the ring gear evenly and care-
fully remove it from the flywheel with a hammer
8 and driver.
2
WARNING
Hot parts. Wear protective clothing and gloves to
prevent burns.
b. Heat the new ring gear to 200°C (395°F) in an
oven and install the ring gear on the flywheel.
7
Push the ring gear fully against the shoulder of
the flywheel.
c. The pilot bearing in the flywheel can be replaced.
3
Push the old bearing from the flywheel and push
in a new bearing.

6 1. GASKET Flywheel, Installation

2. FLYWHEEL
3. PILOT BEARING 1. Install a new oil seal in the adapter plate on lift trucks
5 4. RING GEAR that have an oil clutch. Use a sealant on the outside of the
5. SEAL seal during installation.
6. O–RING
7. CRANKSHAFT 2. Apply a sealant to the flange of the adapter plate. In-
8. ADAPTER PLATE stall the adapter plate to the engine.
3. Install a new O–ring to the flywheel for lift trucks that
4 have an oil clutch transmission.
3830
4. Install the flywheel to the crankshaft. Apply a sealant
FIGURE 45. FLYWHEEL ARRANGEMENT FOR to the capscrews that hold the flywheel to the crankshaft.
A TYPICAL OIL CLUTCH
5. Tighten the capscrews. See TORQUE SPECIFI-
CATIONS.
4. Remove the capscrews that fasten the flywheel to the COOLING SYSTEM
crankshaft. If there are dowel pins installed, use a ham-
Coolant Pump
mer and driver to remove the dowel pins from the fly-
wheel and crankshaft. Rotate the crankshaft as neces- If any parts of the coolant pump are worn, replace the
sary so that the dowel pins will not hit the engine block coolant pump. Parts for the coolant pump are not avail-
as they are removed. able separately. During installation, apply a sealant to
the gasket for the coolant pump. Adjust the tension of
5. Remove the flywheel. Discard the dowel pins on the the drive belt as described in the section PERIODIC
GM 6–250. MAINTENANCE.

24
 40.1 to 41.1 mm 79.8 to 80.8 mm
(1.58 to 1.62 in) (3.14 to 3.18 in)
1 1

2
4

1. FAN BRACKET
3 2. SHAFT AND
BEARING
3. PULLEY
4. PLUG
S2.00–3.00XL S40–50F, H40–50J–60JS,
(S40–60XL) H30–60H (E3), H30–60H (D3)

HOLD THE BRACKET ON THIS SURFACE WHEN THE BEARING IS PRESSED INTO THE
BRACKET.
PRESS THE BEARING INTO THE BRACKET UNTIL THE BEARING AND BRACKET ARE EVEN.
USE A SUPPORT ON THE SHAFT WHEN YOU PRESS THE PULLEY ONTO THE SHAFT. 12588

FIGURE 46. ASSEMBLY, FAN DRIVE

Fan Drive Viscous Fan Drive

See FIGURE 47. and FIGURE 46. for the correct as- Some lift trucks have a viscous fan drive. The viscous
sembly procedures for the fan drive. fan drive is a fluid coupling between the cooling fan and
a pulley on the engine. The fluid coupling permits the
cooling fan to rotate at a different speed than the engine
speed. The fluid coupling also controls the maximum
12.9 mm 1 speed of the cooling fan. The cooling fan can be rotated
(0.51 in) by hand when the engine is not running. If the engine
temperature is above normal, check the following parts
of the cooling system:
• coolant level
• damaged hose or restrictions to coolant flow
• operation of the thermostat
• restriction to the rotation of the cooling fan
• restrictions that stop the air from flowing freely
through the radiator
3
12900
If these parts of the cooling system are normal when the
2 engine temperature is above normal, check the viscous
1. HOUSING fan drive.
2. SHAFT AND BEARING 3. HUB
Do the following procedure to check the viscous fan
FIGURE 47. FAN DRIVE, 3.0L ENGINE drive:

25
 Stop the engine. Rotate the cooling fan and fan
drive by hand. The rotation must be smooth with
some resistance. A small amount of movement
side–to–side will occur at the tips of the fan
blades because of bearing clearance. Approxi-
mately 5 mm (0.2 in) maximum of side–to–side
movement at the tips of the fan blades is permit-
ted. If the cooling fan can not be rotated by hand
or has a rough rotation, the fan drive must be re-
placed. A very small leakage of oil around the
bearing is normal. If oil has leaked from the fan
drive, the cooling fan will turn too easily. If the
cooling fan will turn more than three revolutions
when pushed by the hand and released, the vis-
cous fan drive must be replaced.

ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
ENGINE DATA Compression Ratio 8.25:1
GM 4–153 Governor speed See the PERIODIC MAINTE-
Number of cylinders 4 NANCE section for each model of lift truck
Firing order 1–3–4–2 CYLINDER HEAD
Bore and stroke 98.45 x 82.5 mm (3.876 x 3.25 in) Valve seat specifications See FIGURE 6.
Displacement 2512 cm3 (153 in3) Valve seat width, intake valves
Compression Ratio 8.25:1 0.896 to 1.897 mm (0.035 to 0.074 in)
Governor speed See the PERIODIC MAINTE- Valve seat width, exhaust valves
NANCE section for each model of lift truck 1.468 to 2.468 mm (0.058 to 0.0971 in)
GM 4–181 Clearance between intake valve and guide
Number of cylinders 4 – Production Limit
0.0254 to 0.0686 mm (0.0010 to 0.0027 in)
Firing order 1–3–4–2
– Service Limit 0.094 mm (0.0037 in)
Bore and stroke 101.6 x 91.44 mm (4.00 x 3.60 in)
Clearance between exhaust valve and guide
Displacement 2965 cm3 (181 in3)
[NOTE: The valve stems for the exhaust valves have a
Compression Ratio 8.25:1 taper of 0.0025 mm (0.001 in)]
Governor speed See the PERIODIC MAINTE- – Production Limit (top of taper)
NANCE section for each model of lift truck 0.0254 to 0.0686 mm (0.0010 to 0.0027 in)
GM 3.0L – Service Limit 0.119 mm (0.0047 in)
Number of cylinders 4 – Production Limit (bottom of taper)
Firing order 1–3–4–2 0.0508 to 0.0939 mm (0.0020 to 0.0037 in)
Bore and stroke 101.6 x 91.44 mm (4.00 x 3.60 in) – Service Limit 0.145 mm (0.0057 in)
Displacement 2965 cm3 (181 in3) Diameter of exhaust valve stem
8.6817 to 8.9665 mm (0.3418 to 0.3425 in)
Compression Ratio 8.25:1
Diameter of intake valve stem
Governor speed See the PERIODIC MAINTE-
8.6995 to 8.6817 mm (0.3425 to 0.3418 in)
NANCE section for each model of lift truck
Valve head diameter (all)
GM 6–260
8.6817 to 8.6995 mm 0.3418 to 0.3425 in)
Number of cylinders 6
Valve installed height (all)
Firing order 1–5–3–6–2–4 42.926 mm (1.69 in)
Bore and stroke 98.45 x 89.66 mm (3.88 x 3.53 in) Valve spring, free length (See FIGURE 48.)
Displacement 4095 cm3 (250 in3) 52.8 mm (2.08 in)

26
 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS

Valve spring force (installed and valve is open)

756 to 800 N @ 32 mm
A (170 to 180 pounds @ 1.26 in)
HYDRAULIC VALVE LIFTER
Leak rate 12 to 90 seconds with 50 lb load
Body diameter
21.3868 to 21.4046 mm (0.8420 to 0.8427 in)
B Plunger travel 3.175 mm (0.125 in)
C
Clearance in bore 0.0635 mm (0.0025 in)
Lifter bore diameter
21.425 to 21.450 mm (0.8435 to 0.8445 in)
CAMSHAFT
9715
Variation from front to rear of a cam lobe
A. VARIATION FROM VERTICAL: – Taper with larger dimension away from No. 1
– Production less than 1.5 mm (0.06 in) piston
– Service limit 2.5 mm (0.984 in)
Bearing journals, diameter
B. FREE LENGTH:
– Standard 49.7 mm (1.96 in) 47.44 to 47.49 mm (1.8677 to 1.8697 in)
– Service Limit 48.2 mm (1.90 in) Bearing journals, clearance
C. INSTALLATION HEIGHT: 0.01778 to 0.9685 mm (0.0007 to 0.0027 in)
THE VALVE SPRINGS NEED A MINIMUM
Variation of a bearing journal in either diameter or axial
FORCE OF 347 to 383 N (76 to 86 lbf) TO COM-
PRESS THEM TO A HEIGHT OF 43 mm (1.69 in) direction 0.03 mm (0.001 in)
Axial Clearance (see FIGURE 17.)
– Production Limit
0.020 to 0.120 mm (0.001 to 0.005 in)
– Service Limit 0.2 mm (0.008 in)
PISTONS
Piston diameter (see gauge points in FIGURE 27.)
Clearance at top of cylinder
– Production Limit
0.0635 to 0.0838 mm (0.0025 to 0.0033 in)
Clearance at bottom of cylinder
– Production Limit
0.043 to 0.104 mm (0.0017 to 0.0041 in)
Clearance in cylinder (service limit for top and bottom
FIGURE 48. VALVE SPRING SPECIFICATIONS
of cylinder) 0.76 mm (0.030 in)
Piston ring to groove clearance for piston rings (see
FIGURE 28.)
Valve spring force (installed and valve is closed) Compression rings No. 1 and No. 2
347 to 383 N @ 43 mm – Production Limit
(78 to 86 pounds @ 1.69 in) 0.0381 to 0.0889 mm (0.0015 to 0.0035 in)

27
 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
– Service Limit 0.1143 mm (0.0045 in) Clearance between journals and main bearings (except
Oil ring to groove clearance for rear main bearing of GM 6–250)
– Production Limit – Production Limit
0.127 to 0.1397 mm (0.005 to 0.0055 in) 0.0127 to 0.061 mm (0.0005 to 0.0024 in)
– Service Limit 0.064 mm (0.0025 in)
– Service Limit 0.1651 mm (0.0065 in)
Clearance between journal and rear main bearing for
Piston ring end clearance (see FIGURE 29.)
GM 6–250
– Piston ring No. 1 and No. 2
– Production Limit
– Production Limit
0.0127 to 0.061 mm (0.0016 to 0.0035 in)
0.254 to 0.559 mm (0.010 to 0.022 in)
– Service Limit 0.089 mm (0.0035 in)
– Service Limit 0.813 mm (0.032 in)
Available undersize main bearings
– Oil control ring – See PARTS MANUAL
0.381 to 1.397 mm (0.015 to 0.055 in)
Axial Clearance (crankshaft to thrust surface of rear
– Service Limit 1.65 mm (0.065 in) main bearing)
Piston pin to piston clearance – Production Limit
– Production Limit 0.0508 to 0.1524 mm (0.002 to 0.006 in)
0.0076 to 0.0127 mm (0.0003 to 0.0005 in) – Service Limit 0.1524 mm (0.006 in)
– Service Limit 0.0254 mm (0.001 in) CONNECTING RODS
Piston pin to connecting rod clearance Press fit Diameter of connecting rod journals for earlier produc-
tion engines
CYLINDER BORE
– Production limit
Out–of– round (see FIGURE 25.) 50.775 to 50.800 mm (1.999 to 2.000 in)
– Production Limit 0.254 mm (0.001 in)
– Grinding Limit 50.27 mm (1.979 in)
– Service Limit 0.0508 mm (0.002 in)
Diameter of connecting rod journals for later production
Taper (see FIGURE 26.) engines
– Production Limit 0.0127 mm (0.0005 in) – Production limit
– Service Limit 0.127 mm (0.005 in) 58.369 to 58.420 mm (2.298 to 2.300 in)
– Grinding Limit 57.86 mm (2.278 in)
CRANKSHAFT
Out–of–round of bearing journal (maximum)
Diameter of main bearing journal – Production Limit 0.0127 mm (0.0005 in)
– Production Limit
58.367 to 58.405 mm (2.2979 to 2.2994 in) – Service Limit 0.0254 mm (0.001 in)
Taper of bearing journal (maximum)
– Grinding Limit 57.859 mm (2.278 in)
– Production Limit 0.0127 mm (0.0005 in)
Out–of–round of main bearing journal (maximum)
– Service Limit 0.0254 mm (0.001 in)
– Production Limit 0.0127 mm (0.0005 in)
Clearance between crankshaft journals and connecting
– Service Limit 0.0254 mm (0.001 in)
rod bearings
Taper of main bearing journal (maximum) – Production Limit
– Production Limit 0.0127 mm (0.0005 in) 0.0127 to 0.066 mm (0.0005 to 0.0026 in)
– Service Limit 0.0254 mm (0.001 in) – Service Limit 0.762 mm (0.003 in)

28
 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
Available undersize connecting rod bearings LUBRICATION SYSTEM
– See PARTS MANUAL
Side clearance of connecting rod to crankshaft Oil pressure @ 2500 rpm
– Production limit 170 to 241 kPa (25 to 35 psi)
0.1524 to 0.4318 mm (0.006 to 0.017 in)
Minimum oil pressure @ idle rpm 48 kPa (7 psi)
– Service Limit 0.5588 mm (0.022 in)
COOLING SYSTEM Oil pressure switch “ON” @
Thermostat 82°C (180°F) 20 to 39 kPa (2.9 to 5.7 psi)

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
ITEM SPECIFICATION

ADAPTER PLATE FOR TORQUE CONVERTER

HOUSING
3.0L 44 N.m (35 lbf ft)
ALTERNATOR PULLEY 61 N.m (45 lbf ft)
CAMSHAFT THRUST PLATE 10 N.m (7 lbf ft)
CHAIN BLOCK FOR HYDRAULIC PUMP DRIVE 19 N.m (14 lbf ft) with adhesive sealant
CONNECTING ROD CAP NUTS 44 N.m (35 lbf ft)
COOLANT PUMP TO BLOCK 10 N.m (7 lbf ft)
COOLING FAN TO HUB 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
CYLINDER HEAD 130 N.m (95 lbf ft)
ENGINE MOUNT TO BLOCK 44 N.m (35 lbf ft)
EXHAUST MANIFOLD 41 N.m (30 lbf in)
EXHAUST MANIFOLD TO INTAKE MANIFOLD 61 N.m (45 lbf ft)
FAN BELT PULLEY TO VIBRATION DAMPENER 44 N.m (35 lbf ft)
FLYWHEEL CAPSCREWS
4–153, 4–181 80 N.m (60 lbf ft) with adhesive sealant
3.0L 107 N.m (79 lbf ft) with adhesive sealant
6–250 100 N.m (75 lbf ft) with adhesive sealant
FLYWHEEL HOUSING 44 N.m (35 lbf ft)
INSPECTION COVER (Lifters) 10 N.m (7 lbf ft)
INTAKE MANIFOLD TO CYLINDER HEAD 54 N.m (40 lbf ft)
MAIN BEARING CAP 95 N.m (70 lbf ft)
OIL SUMP
1/4–20 Capscrews 10 N.m (7 lbf ft)
5/15–18 Capscrews 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
OIL SUMP TO TIMING COVER 8 N.m (6 lbf ft)
OIL PUMP TO ENGINE BLOCK 30 N.m (22 lbf ft)
OIL PUMP COVER 14 N.m (10 lbf ft)
ROCKER COVER 8 N.m (6 lbf ft)
STARTER 44 N.m (35 lbf ft)
TIMING COVER 11 N.m (97 lbf in)
VIBRATION DAMPENER 80 N.m (60 lbf ft)

29

PROBLEM
When the ignition switch is in
the “START” position, the
starter does not operate.
The engine will not start.
The engine does not run
smoothly.
The engine does not have
enough power.
30
TROUBLESHOOTING
POSSIBLE CAUSE
The battery has a problem.
The battery is not fully charged.
The connections at the battery are
loose or they have corrosion.
The ignition switch has a problem.
The starter system has a problem.
There are damaged parts in the
engine.
The fuel tank is empty.
The battery is not fully charged.
The valves are worn or damaged.
The piston rings are worn or have
damage.
The ignition system has a problem.
The fuel system has a problem.
The valve mechanism does not
operate correctly.
The head gasket has a leak.
The cylinder head has cracks.
There is a leak in the intake system.
The spark plugs have a problem.
The ignition system has problems.
(See the sections for the electrical
components in the SERVICE
MANUAL for more information.
The air filter is dirty.
The fuel is the wrong type.
The ignition timing is not correct.
The valve mechanism does not
operate correctly.
The piston assemblies are worn or
damaged.
The spark plugs are the wrong type or
they are not installed correctly.
The valve timing is not correct.
The exhaust system has restrictions.
PROCEDURE OR ACTION
Install a new battery.
Charge the battery.
Clean and tighten the battery
connections.
Repair or install an ignition switch.
Check and repair the starter circuit.
Repair the engine.
Fill the fuel tank.
Charge the battery.
Repair the valves.
Install new piston rings.
Check and repair the ignition system.
Check and repair the fuel system.
Repair the valve mechanism.
Install a new head gasket.
Install a new cylinder head.
Install new gaskets at the intake
manifold.
Install new spark plugs.
Repair the ignition system.
Clean or install a new air cleaner.
Drain and fill fuel tank.
Check timing.
Repair parts of valve mechanism.
Install new pistons.
Install new spark plugs.
Check valve mechanism.
Clean or repair exhaust system.

PROBLEM
There is noise inside the
engine.
There is noise in the engine
during acceleration.
The engine gets too hot.
The bearings in the engine
are damaged.
TROUBLESHOOTING
POSSIBLE CAUSE
The main bearings are worn or
damaged.
The bearings for the connecting rods
are worn or damaged.
The pistons are worn or damaged.
The engine is too hot.
There is not enough oil in the engine.
The flywheel is loose.
A connecting rod is bent.
There is a leak in the exhaust system.
A valve lifter has a problem.
The valve mechanism does not
operate correctly.
The spark plugs are dirty.
The spark plugs are the wrong type.
The ignition timing is not correct.
The fuel is the wrong type.
There is too much carbon in the
combustion chamber.
The engine is too hot.
There is not enough coolant in the
cooling system.
The belt for the water pump is worn or
not adjusted correctly.
The thermostat has damage.
The cooling system has restrictions.
The water pump has damage.
The radiator is dirty.
The exhaust system has restrictions.
There is not enough oil in the engine.
The oil in the engine is the wrong type. Fill engine with correct oil.
The oil pump has damage.
The connecting rods have damage.
The camshaft is worn or damaged.
The passages for oil have restrictions.
The bearings are not installed
correctly.
The oil in the engine is dirty.
PROCEDURE OR ACTION
Install new bearings.
Install new bearings.
Install new pistons.
Check the cooling system.
Fill the engine to the correct level.
Tighten the capscrews for the
flywheel.
Repair the engine.
Repair the exhaust system.
Check the valve lifters.
Repair the valve mechanism.
Install new spark plugs.
Install the correct spark plugs.
Check the timing.
Fill the tank with the correct fuel.
Clean the cylinder head and pistons.
Check the cooling system.
Fill cooling system with coolant.
Adjust drive belts.
Install a new thermostat.
Clean the cooling system parts.
Install a new water pump.
Clean the radiator.
Clean or replace the parts of the
exhaust system.
Fill engine with correct oil.
Install a new oil pump.
Install new connecting rods.
Install a new camshaft.
Clean oil passages.
Install new bearings.
Install a new oil filter and oil.
31
 INTRODUCTION

GENERAL “ASBESTOS” warning label on the container.

Discard asbestos material safely.

This section has the description and the repair proce-

dures for the engine and the fuel system. Removal, dis-
CAUTION
Disconnect the battery cables before doing any
assembly, cleaning, assembly, installation, specifica-
disassembly and repair to the engine or parts of the
tions and troubleshooting procedures are included.
electrical system.

DANGER The diodes and resistors in the electrical system can

be damaged if the following cautions are not
Some gaskets used in this engine can contain
followed:
asbestos or other fibers. Breathing asbestos dust is a
cancer or lung disease hazard. Do not create dust! • Do not disconnect the battery when the engine
Use vacuum equipment for asbestos or follow the is running. The voltage surge can damage the
cleaning procedure described below. electronic devices in the circuit.
• Do not disconnect an electric wire before the
• Use a hand scraper to remove old gasket
engine is stopped and the switches are “OFF”.
material. Do not use a power tool or
compressed air. • Do not cause a short circuit by connection of
the electric wires to the wrong terminals.
• Make sure the gasket material is wet with Make sure a correct identification is made of
water or oil to prevent particles in the air. the wire before it is connected.
• Discard all asbestos material in a closed • Make sure a battery is the correct voltage and
container while it is still wet. Put an polarity before it is connected.

7 2 1 3 9 10

1. FILL CAP FOR ENGINE OIL

2. THERMOSTAT HOUSING
3. FUEL INJECTION PUMP
4. DRAIN PLUG, ENGINE OIL
5. CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
6. FAN
7. COOLANT PUMP
8. STARTER
9. HOSE, PCV
6 10. INLET MANIFOLD
11. OIL SUMP
12. TIMING CASE

12
11
4
FIGURE 1. ISUZU 4JB1 DIESEL ENGINE

1
 • Do not check for current flow by making a
spark because the electronic devices in the
circuit can be damaged.
DESCRIPTION
The Isuzu 4JB1 diesel engine is a four–cylinder engine
with a displacement of 2771 cm3 (169 in3). The firing
order is 1–3–4–2. The No. 1 cylinder is toward the end
of the engine with the fan. The serial number of the en-
gine is on the side of the engine block near the No. 4 cyl-
inder location.
This diesel engine has direct fuel injection. Diesel fuel is
injected into the cylinder at the beginning of each power
stroke of the piston. A glow plug is also installed in the
cylinder head for each cylinder. These glow plugs are
cold start aids to make the diesel engine easier to start
when the engine is cold.
The fuel injection pump, Model VE, is made by Diesel
Kiki. This fuel injection pump has one plunger assem-
bly that supplies fuel to the four fuel injectors. A me-
chanical governor controls the maximum engine speed.
The operation of this governor is described in the Fuel
System later in this section.
The valves, valve guides, and valves seats can be re-
placed during engine repairs. The valve and valve guide
are a set and must be replaced as a unit.
The crankshaft has five main bearings. The main bear-
ing in the center of the crankshaft is also the thrust bear-
ing and has thrust washers (thrust bearings) on each side
of the main bearing. The bearing journals have had a
special process called “tufftrided” and can not be re-
paired by grinding. The crankshaft must be replaced.
The pistons have three piston rings. Each of the two
compression rings have a special shape designed for its
position on the piston. The third piston ring is the oil
control ring. The cylinder liners are chrome plated.
FUEL SYSTEM
Description
NOTE: Special tools and training are needed to repair
the fuel injection pump. A fuel injection pump is nor-
mally sent to an authorized Diesel Kiki repair station if
2
repairs are necessary. Fuel injectors also require special
equipment and training for repair. Most users have a
special repair service do this work. The repair of the
fuel injection pump and the fuel injectors is not de-
scribed in this section.
A description of the fuel system for the fuel injection
pump, Model VE is included in the following para-
graphs.
Check the timing of the fuel injection pump as described
in CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS. During installa-
tion of the fuel injection pump, remove the air from the
fuel system as described in CHECKS AND ADJUST-
MENTS.
Operation, Fuel Injection Pump,
Model VE (See FIGURE 2.)
The parts of the fuel system include the fuel tank, injec-
tion pump and governor, fuel filters, and injectors. A ba-
sic diagram of the fuel system with the fuel injection
pump, Model VE is shown in FIGURE 2.
The solenoid valve is controlled by the ignition switch.
When the ignition switch is turned to ON, the coil in the
solenoid valve is energized. The solenoid valve opens to
permit fuel to flow into the pressure chamber for the
plunger (2). When the ignition switch is turned to OFF,
the solenoid valve closes and stops the flow of fuel. The
solenoid valve permits the engine to be stopped quickly
when the ignition switch is turned to OFF.
The drive shaft (6) is turned by the gear train in the en-
gine. The fuel pump (4) is a rotary vane pump that pulls
fuel from the fuel tank through the water separator. The
pressure of the fuel oil from the fuel pump increases
when the speed of the drive shaft increases. The regula-
tor valve controls the pressure of the fuel oil to the speci-
fications set by the manufacturer. The fuel oil flows into
the inlet for the distributor head (17) to the pressure
chamber for the plunger (2). The cam disk (13) rotates
the plunger (2) and moves the plunger in and out of the
plunger barrel. The plunger (2) increases the pressure of
the fuel oil. The rotation of the plunger aligns the pas-
sages with the ports in the distributor head (17). Each
port in the distributor head has a fuel line connected to a
fuel injector. The fuel flows to the fuel injector.
 7 10

4
1
5

9
2
6

3 12627
1. FUEL INJECTOR
2. PLUNGER
3. FUEL TANK 7. FUEL FILTER/WATER 13. CAM DISK
4. FUEL PUMP SEPARTOR 14. TIMER
(VIEW ROTATED TO MAKE 8. OVERFLOW VALVE 15. PLUNGER SPRING
CLEARER) 9. SOLENOID VALVE 16. DELIVERY VALVE
5. REGULATOR VALVE 10. CONTROL LEVER 17. DISTRIBUTOR HEAD
6. DRIVE SHAFT FOR GEAR, 11. FLY WEIGHT 18. GOVERNOR LEVER
FUEL INJECTION PUMP 12. ROLLER HOLDER 19. ADJUSTMENT SCREW,
FULL LOAD
10
8

11

19

18
9
6
17

12

13

14
15 16 12628

FIGURE 2. THE FUEL SYSTEM, FUEL INJECTION PUMP, MODEL VE

3
The overflow valve (9) in the injection pump is a by–
pass valve that permits some fuel oil to return to the fuel
tank. The overflow valve keeps the fuel oil at a constant
pressure in the plunger chamber so that the fuel flow to
the fuel injectors is even.
See FIGURE 3. A control sleeve (6) slides on the plung-
er and partially opens a passage in the plunger to control
the amount of fuel oil sent to the fuel injectors. This con-
trol sleeve is controlled by both the control lever (1) and
the mechanical governor (3). The control lever (1) is
connected to the accelerator pedal for the lift truck.

1. CONTROL LEVER
2. SHAFT, CONTROL LEVER
3. GOVERNOR
4. FLYWEIGHT (4)
5. GOVERNOR SLEEVE
6. CONTROL SLEEVE
7. PLUNGER
8. BALL JOINT
9. ASSEMBLY, GOVERNOR LEVER
12630 10. ADJUSTMENT SCREW, FULL LOAD
11. RETAINER PIN
12. GOVERNOR SPRING

FIGURE 3. SPEED CONTROL, FUEL INJECTION PUMP, MODEL VE

REPAIRS

FUEL INJECTION PUMP
Removal
1. Disconnect the battery cables at the battery.
2. Remove clamps as necessary so that the fuel lines are
not bent. Remove the fuel line between the fuel filter and
the fuel injection pump.
3. Remove the fuel lines from the fuel injection pump
and the fuel injectors that returns fuel to the fuel tank.
4. Disconnect the throttle cable from the control lever on
the fuel injection pump.
5. Remove the bolts that hold the fuel injection pump to
the engine. Move the fuel injection pump away from the
timing gear case so that the drive gear is disengaged
from the timing gear train.
NOTE: A liquid sealant was applied between the fuel
injection pump and the timing gear case. Sometimes it is
necessary to lightly hit the fuel injection pump with a
soft hammer to loosen it from the timing gear case.
Installation
NOTE: The timing gears must be correctly installed in
the engine before the fuel injection pump is installed.
CAUTION
Do not turn the crankshaft or the camshaft if the tim-
ing gears have been removed and the valve mecha-
nism is installed. If either shaft is turned, damage
will occur to the valve mechanism. To prevent dam-
age to the valve mechanism, remove the rocker arm
assembly when working on the timing gears.
NOTE: If the engine is installed in the lift truck, the let-
ters on the timing gears can be difficult to see to align the
position of the gears. Some service people use a light
and a mirror to see the letters on the timing gears.

4
1. See FIGURE 4. Remove the access cover for the cam-
shaft timing on the timing gear cover. Slowly turn the
crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (1) with the “O”
mark (2) on the camshaft gear.
1 2
1. POINTER
2. MARK, CAMSHAFT TIMING GEAR
FIGURE 4. ALIGNMENT, CAMSHAFT TIMING
GEAR
2. See FIGURE 5. Remove the access cover for the tim-
ing of the fuel injection pump on the timing gear cover.
Put a thin coat of liquid sealant on both surfaces of the
gasket that is installed between the fuel injection pump
and the timing gear case. Install the fuel injection pump
on the timing gear case. Align the “O” mark (2) on the
gear with the pointer (1) as the fuel injection pump is in-
stalled.
1 Special Tools: Remover Tool For The Fuel Injectors,
2
1. POINTER
2. MARK, GEAR FOR FUEL INJECTION PUMP
FIGURE 5. ALIGNMENT, GEAR FOR THE
FUEL INJECTION PUMP
3. Install the bolts that fasten the fuel injection pump to
the timing gear case and engine. Tighten the bolts to 19
N.m (14 lbf ft).
4. Install the oil pipe between the fuel injection pump
and the oil sump.
5. Install the fuel lines from the fuel injection pump and
the fuel injectors that returns fuel to the fuel tank.
6. Install the clamps as necessary so that the fuel lines
are not bent. Install the fuel line between the fuel filter
and the fuel injection pump.
7. Connect the throttle cable to the control lever on the
fuel injection pump.
8. If installation and alignment of the timing gears are
complete, install the access covers for the camshaft gear
and the gear for the fuel injection pump.
9. See the procedure “Remove Air From The Fuel Sys-
tem” before starting the engine.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE
ENGINE
NOTE: The removal and installation procedures for the
engine are not included in this section. See the section,
THE FRAME for the procedures to remove and install
the engine.
CYLINDER HEAD AND VALVE
MECHANISM (See FIGURE 6.)
Cylinder Head, Removal
Isuzu Part No. 5–8840–2034–0
NOTE: The following procedure is for removal of the
cylinder head when the engine is in the lift truck. If the
engine has been removed from the lift truck, many of the
following disconnections and removals will already be
done.
1. Disconnect the battery cables at the battery.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Disconnect the air filter from the inlet manifold. Re-
move the air filter and air duct.
4. Remove the fan guard from the radiator. Loosen the
alternator support bracket to remove the tension in the
drive belt for the cooling fan.
5
 2
3
1

4
6
7
5 8

2
18
9 19

1. BOLT, VALVE COVER (2) 20

2. GROMMET (2) 10
3. SOUND SHIELD
4. GROMMET (2)
5. SOUND SHIELD, RUBBER
6. SCREW (4)
7. PCV VALVE 15
8. OIL FILL CAP 14
9. ROCKER ARM COVER 16
13
10. GASKET 11
11. LIFTING EYE 12 17
12. VALVE GUIDE (8)
13. SPRING SEAT (8)
14. SEAL, VALVE STEM (8)
15. BOLT, CYLINDER HEAD (18) 21
16. SEAL CUP
17. LIFTING EYE
18. BREATHER PIPE
19. SPRING CLIP 22
20. RUBBER HOSE, PCV 27
21. GLOW PLUG (4) 24
22. CONNECTOR, GLOW PLUG
23. GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD 25 23
24. SEAL CUP (7) 26
25. VALVE SEAT, EXHAUST (4)
26. VALVE SEAT, INLET (4)
27. SEAL CUP

FIGURE 6. CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLY

6
5. Remove the cooling fan and spacer. Remove the distortion in the cylinder head. Loosen the cylinder
pulley for the cooling fan and the drive belt. head bolts in the sequence shown in FIGURE 7. Do
not completely loosen the bolts during the first se-
6. Remove the alternator and its mount.
quence.
7. Remove the fuel lines between the components on the
cylinder head and the fuel injection pump. If the engine 17. Remove the cylinder head bolts. Lift the cylinder
must be completely disassembled for repairs, remove head from the engine block.
fuel injection pump as described in the procedure FUEL
INJECTION PUMP, Removal.
6 14 15 7
8. Remove the fuel filter. 10 18 11
2 3
9. Disconnect the exhaust manifold from the cylinder
head. 1 9 17 12 4
5 13 16 8
10. Remove the coolant hose from the coolant pump to
the cylinder head. Remove the thermostat housing. Re-
move the clamps for the engine wiring that are on the
thermostat housing and the side of the cylinder head. FIGURE 7. LOOSENING SEQUENCE FOR
REMOVAL OF THE CYLINDER HEAD
11. Remove the glow plug connectors. Remove the glow
plugs from the cylinder head. 18. Remove the cylinder head gasket.

12. Remove the nuts, washers, and the bracket holders Valves, Removal
for the fuel injectors. See FIGURE 26. Use a slide ham-
1. Put the cylinder head on a flat work surface. Use a
mer and a remover tool to pull the fuel injectors from the
wood surface or a pad to prevent damage to the cylinder
cylinder head. Remove the O–rings and gaskets. See
head. Use a valve spring compressor to compress the
FIGURE 25.
valve springs and remove the retainers. See FIGURE 8.
NOTE: A remover tool for the fuel injectors is available and FIGURE 9.
from Isuzu (Isuzu Part No. 5–8840–2034–0).

13. Remove the inlet manifold. 1. VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR

14. Remove the rocker arm cover and sound shields. 1

CAUTION
When the rocker arm assembly is removed, loosen
each bolt that holds the brackets in a minimum of
three steps in a sequence. This action is to prevent
bending the rocker arm shaft. Loosen the outer bolts
first and then work toward the center of the rocker
arm assembly.
FIGURE 8. VALVES, REMOVAL AND
15. Remove the rocker arm assembly. INSTALLATION
16. Remove the push rods. Keep the push rods in the cor-
2. Release the valve spring compressor. Remove the
rect order so that they will be installed in the same posi-
valve spring cap, valve spring, seal, and seat washer. Re-
tions.
move the valve from the cylinder head. If the valve will
be used again, make a mark on the valve head so that it
CAUTION can be installed again in the same position.
When the cylinder head is removed, loosen each bolt
in a minimum of three steps in a sequence to prevent 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to remove the other valves.

7
 Check the surface of the cylinder head for distortion at
the location for the inlet and the exhaust manifold. If the
1 amount of distortion is more an 0.20 mm (0.008 in), the
cylinder head needs repair.
2
See the complete specifications for the cylinder head in
the SPECIFICATIONS.

9742
6

1. RETAINERS 5. SEAT WASHER A

2. VALVE SPRING CAP 6. INLET VALVE E F
3. VALVE SPRING 7. EXHAUST C D
4. OIL SEAL VALVE
B
FIGURE 9. VALVE COMPONENTS

FIGURE 10. CHECK THE CYLINDER HEAD

Cylinder Head, Inspection And Repair FOR DISTORTION

1. Clean the carbon from the combustion chambers and

Valves, Inspection And Repair
the valve ports.
1. Inspect the valves for burned or damaged areas in the
2. Clean the valve guides.
seat surfaces. Inspect for cracks and damaged or worn
3. Clean the push rods and rocker arms. valve stems.

4. Use an abrasive wheel to clean the heads of the valves.
5. See the DANGER note for asbestos on page 1 of this
section. Clean the surfaces of the cylinder head where
the gaskets fit.
6. Inspect the cylinder head for cracks in the exhaust
ports, combustion chambers, and external surfaces.
7. Check the surface of the cylinder head for distortion.
Use a straight edge and a thickness gauge as shown in
FIGURE 10. Do the measurement in the positions
shown. If the amount of distortion is more than 0.2 mm
(0.008 in), the cylinder head needs repair. If the amount
of distortion is more than 0.4 mm (0.016 in), replace the
cylinder head.
2. Check the clearance of each valve stem in its valve
guide. Use the following procedure:
a. Use a micrometer to measure the diameter of the
valve stem in three places: top, center, and bot-
tom. Use a hole gauge to measure the bore in the
valve guide.
b. Another method of measuring the clearance of
the valve stem in its valve guide is to use a dial in-
dicator as shown in FIGURE 11. Put the dial indi-
cator so that it can measure the side–to–side
movement of the valve stem. Lower the valve
away from its valve seat approximately 3 mm
(0.1 in). Move the valve stem from side–to–side
and check the measurement on the dial indicator.

8
 9727

FIGURE 11. CHECK THE CLEARANCE FIGURE 12. VALVE GUIDES, REMOVAL
BETWEEN VALVE GUIDE AND VALVE

c. The maximum clearance between the valve

stems and their valve guides is shown in the A
SPECIFICATIONS.

d. If the clearance between the valve stem and its

valve guide is greater than the specification, the
valve and valve guide must be replaced as a set.

3. Measure the diameter of the valve stem at three

points. See FIGURE 108. If diameter of the valve stem
is less than the specifications shown in the SPECIFICA-
TIONS.
9743

3. Use a valve spring tester to check the valve springs. A
typical tester is shown in FIGURE 109. The specifica-
tions for the valve springs are shown in the SPECIFI-
CATIONS, FIGURE 109.
4. If the valves need grinding, see the valve specifica-
tions in FIGURE 108.
Valve Guides, Replacement
Special Tools: Valve guide replacer (HYSTER Part
No. 320910 or Isuzu Part No.
9–8523–1212–0)
Remove the valve guides with the special tool as shown
in FIGURE 12.
Use the special tool to install the valve guides as shown
in FIGURE 13. Apply clean engine oil to the valve
guide during installation. Install the valve guide so that
it extends 13 mm (0.512 in) above the surface of the cyl-
inder head.
DIMENSION “A” = 13 mm (0.512 in)
FIGURE 13. VALVE GUIDES, INSTALLATION
Valve Seats, Inspection
1. Check the valve seats for wear and damage. Before
any work is done on the valve seats, make sure the valve
guides are good.
2. Check the depth of the valve below the face of the cyl-
inder head. The service limit for the depth of the inlet
valve head below the surface of the cylinder head is 1.28
mm (0.050 in). The service limit for the depth of the ex-
haust valve head below the surface of the cylinder head
is 1.20 mm (0.047 in). See the SPECIFICATIONS,
FIGURE 107. If the measurement of the depth is more
than the specification, replace the valve seat.
3. Check the width of contact from the valve. If the
width is more than 2.0 mm (.08 inch), repair the valve
seat. The specifications for the valve seats are shown in
FIGURE 107.

9
4. A correction for minimum wear and damage to the Valve Seats, Removal
valve and valve seat can be done by a process called
1. Use an electric welder and weld a small bead on the
“lapping”. When the valve seats are “lapped”, keep the
circumference of the valve seat. See FIGURE 15. Make
valve seat as narrow as possible. Make sure all of the
sure that you do not weld between the valve seat and the
lapping compound is removed from the valve and valve
cylinder head.
seat when the process is completed.
2. Let the cylinder head cool for 5 to 15 minutes, then use
5. Damaged valve seats can be repaired with a cutter a small prybar or a screwdriver to remove the valve seat.
tool. See FIGURE 14. If the valve seat can not be re-
paired so that the valve depth is within the specifica- 1
3
tions, the valve seat must be replaced. 2
1

Repair
Special Tools: Cutter for inlet valve seats
Cutter for exhaust valve seats
Pilot for use with valve seat cutters
Handle for valve seat cutters

1. WELD BEAD 1. USE A SCREWDRIVER

1. Use a cutter with 15°, 45°, and 75° blades. Install the 2. VALVE SEAT TO REMOVE THE
correct cutter into the valve seat that is to be repaired. 3. CYLINDER HEAD VALVE SEAT
Carefully turn the cutter in a clockwise direction. Re-
FIGURE 15. VALVE SEAT REMOVAL
move only the minimum metal to repair the valve seat.
Keep the valve seat as narrow as possible. Valve Seats, Installation
1. Clean the bore for the valve seat.
2. Use a press to install a new valve seat. See
FIGURE 16.
3. After installation, check the depth of the valve and the
width of contact. See FIGURE 107.

FIGURE 14. CUTTER FOR VALVE SEATS 2

2. When the valve seat has been cut, remove the cutter
and pilot. Clean the valve port area and remove any par-
1. ADAPTER
ticles. 2. VALVE SEAT
3. PRESS
3. Use the “lapping” process to make sure the valve and
valve seat fit tightly together. FIGURE 16. VALVE SEAT INSTALLATION

Valve Springs, Inspection

4. Check the valve depth. If the valve seat is badly dam-
aged or worn, replace the valve seat as described in the Check the valve springs for damage. The specifications
following paragraphs. for the valve springs are shown in FIGURE 109.

10
Valves, Installation
Special Tools: Valve Seal Installation Tool
Isuzu Part No. 5–8840–2033–0)

1. Use engine oil to lubricate the inner surface of the oil

seal for the valve stem. A special tool is available to in-
stall the oil seal on the valve guide. Install the oil seal on
the valve guide. See FIGURE 17.

FIGURE 19. INSTALL THE RETAINERS FOR

THE VALVE SPRING

Push Rods, Inspection

Put the push rod on a flat plate as shown in FIGURE 20.

FIGURE 17. INSTALLATION, OIL SEAL FOR
THE VALVE STEM
2. Lubricate the valve stems with engine oil. Install the
valves in their correct positions in the cylinder head.
Roll the push rod on the flat plate and check the variation
with a spacer gauge. If a push rod is more than 0.3 mm
(0.012 in) from straight, it must be straightened or re-
placed.
Check the ends of the push rod for wear and damage. Re-
place a worn or damaged push rod.

3. Install the seat washer, valve spring, and valve spring

cap on a valve stem. One end of the valve spring has a
spot of pink paint. See FIGURE 18. This end of the
valve spring must be installed next to the cylinder head.

1. PAINT SPOT
FIGURE 20. CHECK FOR A BENT PUSH ROD

1
FIGURE 18. VALVE SPRING
4. Use the spring compressor to compress the valve
spring. See FIGURE 19. Install the retainers that hold
the valve spring assembly to the valve stem. Repeat step
2 through step 4 for all of the valves.
Rocker Arms,
Disassembly And Inspection
Disassemble the rocker arm assembly. See FIGURE 21.
Remove the snap ring from the end of the shaft. Push the
spring, rocker arms and the brackets from the shaft.
Make sure to keep the parts in their correct order. See the
specifications for the rocker arms and rocker arm shaft
are shown in the SPECIFICATIONS.

11
 14

13
10

9 12
7 11

6
8
5

4
3

1. CAM FOLLOWER (TAPPET) (8)

2. PUSH ROD (8)
3. END PLUG (2)
4. SNAP RING (2)
5. ROCKER ARM (8)
2 6. ADJUSTMENT SCREW (8)
7. JAM NUT (8)
8. BRACKET, ROCKER ARM SHAFT (4)
9. WASHER (4)
10. ROCKER ARM BOLT (3)
11. WASHER, ROCKER SPRING (6)
12. SPRING (3)
1 13. ROCKER ARM SHAFT
14. CAPSCREW (1)

FIGURE 21. ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY

9724
1. Check the rocker arm shaft as shown in FIGURE 22.
Turn the shaft and make a note of the highest and the
lowest reading on the dial indicator. If the difference be-
tween the readings is less than 0.6 mm (0.024 inch), use
a press to straighten the shaft. Do not apply heat to the
shaft. If the difference between the readings is greater
than 0.6 mm (0.024 inch), replace the shaft.

2. Check the rocker arm shaft for wear. Use a microme-

ter and measure the diameter of the shaft at the locations
for the rocker arms. If the diameter at any of the loca-
FIGURE 22. CHECK THE ROCKER ARM tions is less than 18.85 mm (0.742 inch), replace the
SHAFT rocker arm shaft.

12
3. Inspect the rocker arms for wear. Find the clearance and tighten the bolts to a final torque of 103 N.m (76 lbf
between the rocker arm and the rocker arm shaft. If the ft).
clearance is more than 0.2 mm (0.008 inch), replace the
rocker arm or the rocker arm shaft. Make sure the oil
ports are clean. See FIGURE 23. 13 5 4 12
17 9 1 8 16
1

18 10 2 7 15
14 6 3 11

1
1. OIL PORT
See the SPECIFICATIONS for the internal diameter
of the rocker arm
FIGURE 23. CHECK THE ROCKER ARM
4. Make sure the surfaces are not worn or damaged
where the rocker arm pushes on the valve stem. Use an
oil stone to remove minor wear patterns. A badly worn
or damaged rocker arm must be replaced.
5. Check the push rods for damage and replace as neces-
sary.
FIGURE 24. TIGHTENING SEQUENCE FOR
THE CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS
5. Lubricate the push rods with engine oil and then in-
stall them in the engine.
CAUTION
When the rocker arm assembly is installed, tighten
each bolt that holds the brackets in a minimum of
three steps in a sequence. This action is to prevent
bending the rocker arm shaft. Tighten the inner
bolts first and then work away from the center of the
rocker arm assembly.

Rocker Arm Shaft, Assembly 6. Install the rocker arm assembly. Tighten the bolts
1. The largest oil hole in the rocker arm shaft goes to- evenly to a final torque of 54 N.m (40 lbf ft). Tighten the
ward the fan end of the engine. bolts for the inner brackets first.

2. Assemble the rocker arm assembly as shown in 7. Install the glow plugs in the cylinder head. Tighten the
FIGURE 21. Apply engine oil to the parts during assem- glow plugs to 23 N.m (17 lbf ft). Install the glow plug
bly. connector.

3. Install the rocker arm assembly to the cylinder head

during installation of the cylinder head. 1. GASKET 3
2. O–RING
Cylinder Head, Installation 3. FUEL INJECTOR 5
4. HOLDER BRACKET
4
1. Clean the surface of the cylinder head and the surface 5. WASHER
of the engine block.
2. Install the cylinder head gasket on the engine block so
that the “TOP” mark is up. Do not use a sealant on the 2
gasket. 1

3. Install the cylinder head on to the engine block. Care-

fully align the cylinder head gasket and cylinder head.
4. Lubricate the threads of the cylinder head bolts with
engine oil. Install and tighten the bolts in two sequences.
Tighten the bolts to a torque of 83 N.m (62 lbf ft) in the
sequence shown in FIGURE 24. Use the sequence again
FIGURE 25. FUEL INJECTOR ASSEMBLY
8. See FIGURE 25. Install gaskets (1) and O–rings (2)
for each fuel injector. Install the fuel injectors (3) and the
holder brackets (4) to the cylinder head. Install the nuts

13
and washers (5) for the holder brackets. Tighten the nuts
to 38 N.m (28 lbf ft). See FIGURE 26.
FIGURE 26. TIGHTEN THE NUT FOR THE
HOLDER BRACKET FOR THE FUEL INJECTOR
11. Install the fuel lines and the fuel filter. See
FIGURE 29. Connect the fuel injection lines to the fuel
injectors and temporarily tighten the sleeve nuts.
NOTE: If the fuel injection pump is installed at this
step, install the fuel lines and the fuel filter. If the fuel
injection pump is not installed, do this step after the fuel
injection pump is installed.
Install the support clips in their original positions so that
there is no stress on the fuel injection lines. A stress on
the fuel injection line can cause a break during opera-
tion. When the fuel injection lines and the support clips
are in the correct position, tighten the sleeve nuts to 35
N.m (26 lbf ft).

9. Install a new gasket for the inlet manifold. Install the

gasket so that the end with the sharp corners is toward
the fan end of the engine. Install the inlet manifold. See
FIGURE 27.

FIGURE 29. INSTALLATION OF THE FUEL

INJECTION LINES
12. Install the thermostat housing to the cylinder head.
See FIGURE 30.

FIGURE 27. INLET MANIFOLD 1 1. COVER

2. GASKET
INSTALLATION
3. THERMOSTAT
4. GASKET
10. Install a new gasket for the exhaust manifold. Install 2 5. MANIFOLD
6. CLAMP
the exhaust manifold. Tighten the capscrews for the ex-
haust manifold evenly in a minimum of three steps and 3
in the sequence shown in FIGURE 28. Connect the ex-
haust pipe to the exhaust manifold. 4

1 8 5
5 4 6

FIGURE 30. THERMOSTAT HOUSING

13. Install the coolant pump. See FIGURE 96. Tighten
6 2 3 7 the capscrews for the coolant pump to 20 N.m (15 lbf ft).
FIGURE 28. INLET MANIFOLD 14. Install the coolant hoses to the thermostat housing
INSTALLATION and coolant pump.

14
15. Adjust the valves as described in Checks and Adjust-
ments.
16. Install the rocker arm cover and the sound shields.
17. Install the front and rear engine lifting eyes.
23. Install the pulley for the cooling fan and the drive
belt. Install the cooling fan. Adjust the drive belt to the
correct tension.
24. Install and connect the air cleaner.

18. Install the oil pipe from the fuel injection pump to the
engine block. TIMING GEAR CASE

19. Install the alternator and its adjustment bracket.

20. Install a new engine oil filter.
21. Install the oil pressure switch if it was removed.
22. Connect the coolant hoses. Fill the cooling system
with coolant.
Removal (See FIGURE 31.)
The engine is normally removed from the lift truck to re-
move the timing gear case. There are separate covers on
the timing gear case that can be removed to check the
timing indicators.

1. CAPSCREW 12
2. WASHER
3. CRANKSHAFT DAMPER PULLEY 10
4. CAPSCREW (4) 11
5. COVER, TIMING CHECK (2) 9
6. COVER, SOUND SHIELD
7. SOUND SHIELD, RUBBER
8. OIL SEAL, CRANKSHAFT
9. COVER, TIMING GEAR CASE
10. O–RING
11. DOWEL PIN (2) 7
12. TIMING GEAR CASE 8
6 13
5

4 14
5
15
16 19 20
17
18
2
1 21

3 22

26 23
24
13. CAPSCREW (2) 25
14. GASKET, 27
TIMING CHECK COVER (2)
22. SHAFT, IDLER GEAR “B”
15. CAPSCREW (4)
23. IDLER GEAR “B”
16. WASHER (7)
24. WASHER
17. CAPSCREW (1) (6)
25. CAPSCREW
18. CAPSCREW (2)
27 26. OIL PIPE, TIMING GEAR
19. RETAINER PLATE
27. CAPSCREW (2)
20. IDLER GEAR “A”
28 28 28. WASHER (2)
21. SHAFT, IDLER GEAR “A”

FIGURE 31. TIMING GEAR CASE

15
1. Use a puller to remove the crankshaft damper pulley
and dust seal. See FIGURE 32. Use a block of wood
next to the flywheel to prevent the crankshaft from turn-
ing.
The maximum amount of clearance between each of the
gears is 0.3 mm (0.012 inch). Use the following proce-
dure:
a. Set a dial indicator so that it can measure the rota-
tion of the gear to be checked.
b. Hold the two gears to be checked in a fixed posi-
tion.
c. Rotate the gear to be checked to its limit in each
direction. Read the maximum and minimum val-
ues on the dial indicator. If the clearance is greater
than the limit shown in the SPECIFICATIONS,
one or both of the gears must be replaced.

5. Use a thickness gauge to measure the clearance be-

tween idler gear “A” and its retainer plate. See
FIGURE 34. The service limit for the clearance be-
FIGURE 32. REMOVE THE CRANKSHAFT tween the parts is 0.2 mm (0.008 in). See the SPECIFI-
DAMPER PULLEY CATIONS.

2. Remove the sound shield cover and the rubber sound

shield from the timing case cover.

5 6

FIGURE 34. CHECK THE CLEARANCE

3 BETWEEN IDLER GEAR “A” AND THE
RETAINER PLATE
2 6. Remove idler gear “B” and its shaft.
1
1. CRANKSHAFT GEAR 7. Remove idler gear “A” and its retainer plate and shaft.
2. IDLER GEAR “A”
3. IDLER GEAR “B”
4. CAMSHAFT TIMING GEAR CAUTION
5. CAVITY FOR COOLANT PUMP Do not turn the camshaft or the crankshaft when the
6. OPENING FOR FUEL INJECTION PUMP idler gear is removed and the valve mechanism is in-
FIGURE 33. TIMING GEAR ARRANGEMENT stalled. If either shaft is turned, damage will occur to
the valve mechanism. To prevent damage to the
3. Remove the capscrews that hold the timing gear cover valve mechanism, remove the rocker arm assembly
to the timing gear case. Remove the timing gear cover. when working on the timing gears.

4. Use a dial indicator to check the clearance between 8. See FIGURE 35. Remove the bolts that hold the
the gears in the timing gear arrangement before remov- thrust plate for the camshaft gear. Carefully pull the
ing the gears. See FIGURE 33. camshaft timing gear, camshaft, and thrust plate from

16
the engine. Make sure the camshaft journal, cam lobes,
and bearing surfaces are not damaged during disassem-
bly. See Camshaft, Disassembly And Inspection for ad-
ditional information on the camshaft.
FIGURE 35. CAPSCREWS FOR THE THRUST
PLATE FOR THE CAMSHAFT GEAR
9. If the crankshaft gear must be removed, use a puller to
remove the crankshaft gear. Remove the woodruff key
from the crankshaft.
FIGURE 36. REMOVE THE CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL
10. Remove the capscrews that hold the timing gear case
to the engine block. Remove the timing gear case and
gasket.
11. Remove the crankshaft oil seal from the timing gear
case. See FIGURE 36.
Inspection, Idler Gear “A” And Idler Gear
Shaft (See FIGURE 37.)
1. Measure the inner diameter of idler gear “A”. If the
clearance between the idler gear and the idler gear shaft
is greater than the specifications shown in the SPECIFI-
CATIONS, replace the idler gear.
2. Use a micrometer to measure the outer diameter of the
idler gear shaft. If the idler gear shaft is less than the
specifications shown in the SPECIFICATIONS, replace
the idler gear shaft.
FIGURE 37. INSPECTION, IDLER GEAR “A”
AND IDLER GEAR SHAFT
Inspection, Idler Gear “B” Bearings
Measure the bearings in the shaft for idler gear “B” as
shown in FIGURE 38. If the measurements are not
within the specifications, replace the bearings.
1 = 0.04 to 0.06 mm (0.016 to 0.024 in)
2 = 23.7 to 24.0 mm (0.933 to 0.945 in)
FIGURE 38. BEARING REPLACEMENT, IDLER
GEAR “B”
Installation
Special Tools: Oil Seal Installation Tool
Isuzu Part No. 5–8840–2061–0)
17
1. Install the crankshaft oil seal in the timing gear case.
Lubricate the lip of the oil seal with engine oil. Use the
installation tool for the oil seal to install the oil seal in the
timing gear case. Install the oil seal 1 mm (0.039 in) into
the front of the timing gear case. See FIGURE 39.
4

3
1 mm
(0.039 in)
2 7
1
6
5
1. CRANKSHAFT GEAR
2. IDLER GEAR “A”
FIGURE 39. INSTALL THE CRANKSHAFT OIL 3. IDLER GEAR “B”
SEAL 4. CAMSHAFT GEAR
5. ALIGN X ON IDLER GEAR “A” WITH XX
ON THE CRANKSHAFT TIMING GEAR
2. See FIGURE 31. Install the timing gear case (12) to 6. ALIGN Y ON IDLER GEAR “A” WITH YY
the engine block. Use a new gasket during installation. ON THE CAMSHAFT TIMING GEAR
Tighten the capscrews evenly to 20 N.m (15 lbf ft). 7. ALIGN Z ON IDLER GEAR “B” WITH Z ON
IDLER GEAR “A”
3. See Camshaft, Installation for additional information
FIGURE 40. ALIGNMENT OF THE TIMING
to install the camshaft assembly into the engine block. GEARS
See FIGURE 35. Carefully install the camshaft timing
gear, camshaft, and thrust plate into the engine block.
Make sure the camshaft journal, cam lobes, and bearing 7. See FIGURE 40. Lubricate idler gear “B” with en-
surfaces are not damaged during assembly. Tighten the gine oil. Install idler gear “B” on its shaft so that the Z
bolts that hold the thrust plate for the camshaft gear to 20 marks on both timing gears are aligned. Install the wash-
N.m (15 lbf ft). Check that the camshaft turns smoothly. er and capscrew on tining gear “B”. Tighten the caps-
Turn the camshaft so that the “YY” mark on the cam- crew to 110 N.m (81 lbf ft).
shaft timing gear is toward the center axis of idler gear 8. Install the oil pipe for the timing gear. See
“A”. FIGURE 31.
4. Install the idler gear shaft for idler gear “A”. Make 9. Install the timing case cover. Do the following proce-
sure the oil port is toward the top of the engine. dure:
5. Turn the crankshaft so that the “XX” mark on the a. Before the timing case cover is installed, apply a
crankshaft gear is toward the top of the engine. 3 mm x 5 mm ( 0.012 in x 0.20 in) strip of liquid
sealant to the woodruff key for the crankshaft
6. Lubricate idler gear “A” with engine oil. Install idler pulley as shown in FIGURE 41.
gear “A” so that the “X” and “Y” marks can be seen. As
idler gear “A” is installed, align the “X” mark with the b. Install the O–ring in the groove in the timing case
“XX” mark on the crankshaft gear, and align the “Y” cover.
mark with the “YY” mark on the camshaft timing gear.
See FIGURE 40. c. Install an tighten the capscrews to the following
specifications:
Install the retainer plate and the two capscrews. Tighten M8x1.25 = 15 N.m (11 lbf ft)
the capscrews to 20 N.m (15 lbf ft). M12x1.25 = 80 N.m (60 lbf ft)

18
 and washer. Tighten the capscrew to 195 N.m (145 lbf
ft).
1
2
CAMSHAFT

Camshaft, Removal

See TIMING GEAR CASE, REMOVAL for informa-

1. WOODRUFF KEY
2. CRANKSHAFT
FIGURE 41. APPLY LIQUID SEALANT TO THE
WOODRUFF KEY
10. Install the rubber sound shield and the sound shield
cover.
11. Install the crankshaft damper pulley with dust seal.
Use a block to prevent the crankshaft from turning.
Align the crankshaft damper pulley with the woodruff
key and install it in the crankshaft. Install the capscrew
tion about removal of the camshaft from the engine
block.
Camshaft, Disassembly And Inspection
1. Before the camshaft assembly is disassembled, use a
spacer gauge to measure the clearance between the
thrust plate and the camshaft journal. See FIGURE 43.
2. Remove the camshaft timing gear. Put the camshaft in
a vise with soft jaws. Be careful that the camshaft is not
damaged. Remove the capscrew and washer. [The caps-
crew was tightened to 108 N.m (80 lbf ft).] Use a puller
to remove the camshaft timing gear from the camshaft.

2
3

6 1. CAMSHAFT
2. WOODRUFF KEY
3. CAPSCREW (2)
7
4. THRUST PLATE
5. CAMSHAFT TIMING GEAR
6. WASHER
7. CAPSCREW

FIGURE 42. CAMSHAFT ASSEMBLY

19
 1. SPACER
GAUGE
2. THRUST PLATE
3. CAMSHAFT
JOURNAL

3
2 FIGURE 45. CAMSHAFT BEARING
1 INSPECTION

FIGURE 43. MEASURE THE CLEARANCE
BETWEEN THE CAMSHAFT JOURNAL AND
THRUST PLATE
3. Remove the thrust plate.
4. Use a micrometer to check the wear of the camshaft.
Measure the areas of the camshaft as shown in
FIGURE 110. If any of the measurements are less than
the specifications shown in the SPECIFICATIONS and
FIGURE 110., replace the camshaft.
5. Check the “run out” of the camshaft as shown in
FIGURE 44. Rotate the camshaft and look at the dial in-
dicator. If the difference between the highest and lowest
reading is more than 0.10 mm (0.004 in), replace the
camshaft. See the SPECIFICATIONS.
2. Check the clearance between the bearings and the
camshaft. If the clearance between the inside diameter
of the bearing and the outside diameter of the camshaft
journal is greater than 0.12 mm (0.005 in), replace the
camshaft bearings. See the SPECIFICATIONS.
CAUTION
During installation of the camshaft bearings, the oil
ports in the bearing must be aligned with the oil ports
in the engine block. If the ports are not correctly
aligned, the bearing surfaces will not be lubricated
and will fail.

FIGURE 46. CAMSHAFT BEARING

9748
FIGURE 44. CAMSHAFT INSPECTION
Camshaft Bearing Replacement
Special Tools: Camshaft Bearing Replacer Tool
Isuzu Part No. 5–8840–2038–0)
1. Inspect the surface of the bearings for wear and dam-
age. See FIGURE 45. See the SPECIFICATIONS. Re-
place the bearings as necessary.
REPLACEMENT
Cam Followers (Tappets)
1. Keep the cam followers in an arrangement so that they
will be installed again in the same position in the engine
block. Inspect the contact surface of the cam follower
for damage and wear. A cam follower will have a
smooth ring where it rubs on the camshaft lobe. A cam
follower with a damaged surface must be replaced. Re-
place a cam follower as necessary.
2. Measure the outside diameter of the cam followers as
shown in FIGURE 47. Replace a cam follower that has

20
specifications less than shown in the SPECIFI-
CATIONS.
3. Measure the diameter of hole for the cam follower in
the engine block as shown in FIGURE 48. Install a new
cam follower if the clearance between the cam follower
and the engine block is greater than the SPECIFICA-
TIONS.
FIGURE 47. CAM FOLLOWER INSPECTION
FIGURE 48. CAM FOLLOWER INSPECTION
Camshaft, Assembly
1. Install the thrust plate.
2. Put the camshaft in a vise with soft jaws. Be careful
that the camshaft is not damaged during assembly. Align
the camshaft timing gear with the woodruff key and in-
stall the timing gear on the camshaft. Make sure the tim-
ing marks on the timing gear are away from the camshaft
so that they can be seen after installation. Lubricate the
capscrew with engine oil and install the capscrew and
washer. Tighten the capscrew to 112 N.m (83 lbf ft).
Camshaft, Installation
1. The cam followers must be installed before the cam-
shaft. Lubricate the cam followers with engine oil and
install them in the engine block.
2. Lubricate the bearings for the camshaft with engine
oil.
CAUTION
If the camshaft bearings were replaced, make sure
the oil ports are aligned before installation of the
camshaft. If the oil ports are not aligned, the bear-
ings will not have correct lubrication.
3. Carefully install the camshaft in the crankcase.
4. Tighten the bolts that hold the thrust plate to the tim-
ing gear case to a torque of 20 N.m (15 lbf ft).
5. Check that the camshaft will rotate smoothly in the
engine block.
LUBRICATION SYSTEM
Oil Pump, Removal And Disassembly
(See FIGURE 49.)
1. Remove the dipstick. Drain the engine oil.
2. Remove the oil sump.
3. Remove the oil pump with the oil tube from the crank-
case.
21
 assembly and the vane. See the specifications in the
SPECIFICATIONS.
6 7

4
FIGURE 50. CHECK THE END CLEARANCES
OF THE ROTOR
3
3. Check the clearances between the rotor and the vane.
8 If the clearance is greater than 0.20 mm (.008 inch), re-
place the rotor and vane set. See FIGURE 51. See the
specifications in the SPECIFICATIONS.

1. OIL TUBE
ASSEMBLY
2. STRAINER
2 ASSEMBLY
3. COVER
4. VANE
5. OIL PUMP BODY
6. PINION
7. PINION PIN
8. ROTOR AND
DRIVE SHAFT

FIGURE 49. OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY

Oil Pump, Inspection

1. Remove the strainer assembly, the pump cover and
the vane.
2. If the oil pump is worn so that the performance is de-
creased, the oil pump must be replaced. Check the end
clearance of the rotor. See FIGURE 50. If the clearance
is greater than 0.15 mm (0.006 inch), replace the rotor
FIGURE 51. CHECK THE CLEARANCES
BETWEEN THE ROTOR AND THE VANE
4. Check the clearances between the vane and the pump
body. See FIGURE 52. If the clearance is greater than
0.40 mm (.016 inch), replace the oil pump. See
FIGURE 52. See the specifications in the SPECIFICA-
TIONS.

22
 FIGURE 52. CHECK THE CLEARANCE FIGURE 54. CHECK THE ROTOR DRIVE
BETWEEN THE VANE AND PUMP BODY SHAFT

If the rotor must be removed from the drive shaft, use a

5. Remove the pinion pin from the drive shaft to remove
the rotor and the pinion. See FIGURE 53. The pinion
has only one hole for the installation of the pinion pin. If
the pinion must be removed, drill a another hole in the
pinion opposite the end of the pinion pin. Use a hammer
and driver to remove the pinion pin.
hammer and driver to remove the pin. See FIGURE 55.
When the rotor is installed on the drive shaft, the pin
must not extend from the surface of the rotor as shown in
FIGURE 56.

FIGURE 53. REMOVE THE PINION PIN FIGURE 55. ROTOR REMOVAL

6. Use a micrometer to measure the outer diameter of the

drive shaft as shown in FIGURE 54. Use a dial indicator
to measure the inner diameter of the pump body. If the
clearance between the drive shaft and the pump body is
greater than 0.20 mm (0.008 inch), replace the oil pump. FIGURE 56. ROTOR INSTALLATION

23
Oil Pump, Assembly And Installation
(See FIGURE 49. And FIGURE 57.)
1. Install the new drive shaft and rotor into the pump
body.
2. Install the pinion on the drive shaft. Use a 5 mm (0.20
inch) drill to make an aligned hole through the pinion
and drive shaft. Install the pinion pin. Use a high
strength threadlock material (Hyster Part No. 226414 or
Locktite 271) to help hold the pinion pin in the hole.
3. Install the cover.
4. Install the strainer assembly. Install the oil tube so
that it is loosely fastened to the oil pump.
FIGURE 57. INSTALLATION, OIL PUMP
5. Install the oil pump in the crankcase. Use a new O–
ring on the oil tube. Connect the oil tube and tighten the
fittings.
6. Install the oil sump.
FIGURE 58. INSTALLATION, OIL SUMP
24
Oil Sump, Installation
1. Apply a liquid gasket to the arches of bearing cap No.
5 as shown FIGURE 58. Apply a liquid gasket to the
arches of the timing gear case as shown in FIGURE 58.
2. Install the gasket for the oil sump. Make sure the gas-
ket fits completely into the groove of bearing cap No. 5
and the corners where it joins the engine block. See
FIGURE 59.
FIGURE 59. INSTALLATION, OIL SUMP
3. Install the oil sump and tighten the capscrews. Tight-
en the capscrews in a sequence beginning at the middle
and working toward each end of the oil sump Tighten
the capscrews to 19 N.m (14 lbf ft).
Oil Filter Assembly
The oil filter has a regulator valve to control the oil pres-
sure to the oil filter. See FIGURE 60.
Replace the oil filter as described in the section, PERI-
ODIC MAINTENANCE. Change the oil filter at the
same time engine oil is changed. Use the correct oil ac-
cording to the specifications. Install a new filter car-
tridge. Apply clean oil to the gasket of the new filter car-
tridge. Turn the filter until the gasket touches, then
tighten 1/2 to 3/4 turn with your hand. Start the engine.
Check the area around the oil filter for leaks.
The operation of the regulator valve can be checked
when the engine can be operated. Install an oil pressure
gauge in the oil passage near the oil filter. Run the engine
and check the oil pressure gauge for an indication when
the regulator valve opens. If the regulator pressure is not
correct according to the SPECIFICATIONS, replace the
regulator valve.
 1
2
3 6
1
3
4
2
6
7
5
4
5

12
6

11
10 7

8 9 8
1. FILTER CARTRIDGE
2. BODY, OIL FILTER
3. GASKET 8. REGULATOR VALVE
4. PLUG 9. PLUG
5. O–RING 10. PLUG
6. O–RING 11. GASKET
7. O–RING 12. CAPSCREW (2)

FIGURE 60. OIL FILTER ASSEMBLY

PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS

(See FIGURE 61.) 9
10 8
NOTE: See the sections on Cylinder Liners for the se-
lection and fitting of pistons to new cylinder liners. 1. COMPRESSION RING NO. 1
2. COMPRESSION RING NO. 2
3. OIL CONTROL RING
Pistons And Connecting Rods, Removal 4. PISTON
5. PISTON PIN
1. Remove the cylinder head as described in “Cylinder
6. SNAP RING (2)
Head, Removal”. 7. CONNECTING ROD
8. BEARING HALF (2)
2. Remove the oil sump. 9. BEARING CAP
10. NUT (2)
3. Clean the carbon from the top of each cylinder.
FIGURE 61. PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD
4. Remove the bearing caps from the connecting rods. ASSEMBLY
Keep the bearings in their order in which they were in-
stalled. Keep each bearing cap with its connecting rod. Disassembly
5. Push the piston and connecting rod assembly from the 1. During disassembly of the piston and connecting rod
top of the cylinder. Keep the piston and connecting rod assemblies, keep each set of parts with its assembly. Put
assemblies in an arrangement so that they can be in- a piston and connecting rod assembly in a vise with soft
stalled in the engine again in the same order from which jaws. Be careful that the assembly is not damaged in the
they were removed. vise.

25
2. Use a piston ring expander to remove the piston rings. 9739

3. Use snap ring pliers to remove the snap rings at each

end of the piston pin. Use a hammer and a brass driver to
remove the piston pin as shown in FIGURE 62.

9736

FIGURE 63. CHECK THE END CLEARANCE OF

THE PISTON RING

2. Measure the clearance between the piston ring and the

groove in the piston as shown in FIGURE 64. See the
SPECIFICATIONS for the clearance of the piston rings
in their grooves.
FIGURE 62. PISTON PIN, REMOVAL

Pistons, Inspection And Repair

Visually inspect the pistons for wear and cracks. Re-

place a piston that is worn or has damage.

NOTE: If the cylinder liner is worn or damaged, check

the clearance between the piston and the cylinder liner
9738
after the cylinder liner has been replaced.

FIGURE 64. CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE

Piston Rings, Inspection
PISTON RING AND THE GROOVE

1. Measure the end clearance of each piston ring as
shown in FIGURE 63. Install the piston ring into the
cylinder where it will be used. Use a thickness gauge to
measure the end clearance. Make sure the piston ring is
perpendicular to the cylinder wall when the end clear-
ance is measured. See the SPECIFICATIONS for the
end clearance of the piston rings. If the end clearance for
any of the piston rings is greater than the specifications,
replace the piston ring.
Piston Pins, Inspection And Repair
1. Inspect the piston pins for wear. Measure the diameter
of the pin. If the diameter of the piston pin is less than the
size shown in the SPECIFICATIONS, replace the piston
pin.
2. Measure the diameter of the piston pin hole in the pis-
ton. If the clearance between the piston pin and piston is
greater than the specifications, replace the worn parts.

26
Connecting Rods, Inspection And Repair
1. Clean and inspect the parts for wear and damage.
Check the alignment of the connecting rods with a test
fixture. See FIGURE 65.
100 mm 100 mm
Alignment (4 in) (4 in) Alignment
+ 0.015 mm
_ +
_ 0.015 mm
(+_ 0.006 in) (+_ 0.006 in)
The large and small bores in the connecting rod
must be square and parallel with each other within
the limits of + 0.20 mm (0.008 in). The measure-
ment is made at 100 mm (4.0 in) on each side of
the axis of the connecting rod. The alignment must
be within the limits of + 0.15 mm (0.006 in).
FIGURE 65. CHECK THE ALIGNMENT OF THE
CONNECTING ROD
2. Check the clearance between the bushing in the con-
necting rod and the piston pin. The maximum clearance
is shown in the SPECIFICATIONS. If the bushing is
worn, use a press to remove the bushing from the con-
necting rod. Use the press to carefully install a new
bushing. Use a reamer to increase the inner diameter of
the bushing to the standard size for the piston pin.
9730
FIGURE 66. CHECK THE CLEARANCE
BETWEEN THE CONNECTING ROD AND
THE CRANKSHAFT
3. Install the connecting rod in its position on the crank-
shaft. Check the axial clearance between the connecting
rod and the crankshaft as shown in FIGURE 66. See the
SPECIFICATIONS. The maximum clearance is 0.35
mm (0.014 inch).
New Pistons, Selection
CAUTION
The correct piston grade must be selected to keep the
clearances correct between the cylinder liner and
piston or the engine will be damaged.
If a new piston must be installed because of damage or a
new cylinder liner was installed, the following proce-
dure must be used to select the correct piston:
a. Measure the bore of the cylinder after it is in-
stalled (see “Replacement Of A Cylinder Lin-
er”). See FIGURE 67. The measurements are
made at the following points in the cylinder liner:
point 1 = 20 mm (0.79 in)
point 2 = 160 mm (6.30 in)
FIGURE 67. MEASURE THE BORE OF THE
CYLINDER LINER
b. Measure the outside diameter of the piston as
shown in FIGURE 68. The measurement is made
on the piston skirt approximately 70 mm (2.76 in)
below the top of the piston.
c. The piston grade and cylinder liner to piston
clearances are shown in the SPECIFICATIONS.
27
 2. Use snap ring pliers to install one of the snap rings in
the piston. Heat the piston in an oil bath to approximate-
ly 77°C (170°F) for easier installation of the piston pin.
Push the piston pin into the piston and connecting rod.
Install the other snap ring. Check that the connecting rod
moves smoothly on the piston pin.

3. Use a piston ring expander to install the piston rings as

shown in FIGURE 70. During installation, make sure
the mark on the piston rings is toward the top of the pis-
ton. Make sure there is no gap on either side of the ex-
pander coil before the oil control ring is installed. Make
FIGURE 68. MEASURE THE PISTON sure the piston rings will move smoothly in their
grooves after they are installed.
Pistons And Connecting Rods, Assembly
And Installation
Special Tools: Piston ring expander
Piston installation tool
(piston ring compressor)

CAUTION
The engine will be damaged if the pistons and con-
necting rods are installed in the wrong direction.
1. Assemble the connecting rod and the piston. Make
sure that the connecting rod is installed in the piston as
shown in FIGURE 69. Hold the connecting rod in a vise
1. OIL CONTROL RING
while the piston is installed. 2. COMPRESSION RING NO. 2
3. COMPRESSION RING NO.1
1

1. THE PISTON MUST BE FIGURE 70. ASSEMBLY OF THE PISTON

INSTALLED IN THE RINGS
ENGINE WITH THE
NOTCH MARK TOWARD
THE COOLANT PUMP 4. Apply clean engine oil to the piston rings and the jour-
2. THE “ISUZU” CAST nals for the connecting rods. When a piston is installed
MARK MUST BE into its cylinder, arrange the gaps in the piston rings so
INSTALLED IN THE that they are 120 degrees apart from each other. See
SAME DIRECTION AS 2
THE NOTCH MARK ON
FIGURE 71.
THE PISTON.
5. Install the upper half of the bearing in the connecting
rod. Make sure the parts are clean. Rotate the crankshaft
so that the bearing journal for piston being installed is at
BDC.

FIGURE 69. PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD 6. Apply a thin coat of molybdenum disulfide grease to
ARRANGEMENT the piston skirts. Use a piston ring compressor and in-
stall the piston assemblies into their correct cylinders.
WARNING During installation, the small mark on the top of the pis-
Hot parts. Wear protective clothing and gloves to ton must be toward the end of the engine with the cool-
prevent burns. ing fan. See FIGURE 69. or FIGURE 71.

28
 4. Remove the oil pump.
FAN END OF ENGINE
5. Remove the bearing caps for the connecting rods.

C A 6. Remove the caps for the main bearings. Remove the

outer caps first and work toward the center cap.

7. Before removing the crankshaft, measure the clear-

ance between the crankshaft and thrust bearings at the
B middle main bearing location. See FIGURE 72. Move
A – POSITION OF THE GAP FOR THE the crankshaft fully forward before making the mea-
OIL RING surement. The maximum amount of clearance (axial
B – POSITION OF THE GAP FOR THE
SECOND COMPRESSION RING clearance) is shown in the SPECIFICATIONS. If the
C – POSITION OF THE GAP FOR THE amount of axial clearance is greater than the specifica-
FIRST COMPRESSION RING
tion, then the thrust bearings must be replaced.
FIGURE 71. ARRANGEMENT OF THE PISTON
RINGS ON THE PISTON 8. Remove the crankshaft. Keep the main bearings for
the crankshaft in their correct order.
CAUTION
The number on the bearing cap must be the same
number as the connecting rod. The arrow marks of
all the bearing caps must point toward the fan end of
the engine.

NOTE: See the section “How To Check The Clearance

Between The Crankshaft Bearings And Their Journals”
when the bearing for the connecting rod is installed.

7. Install the bearing in the bearing cap for the connect-

9749
ing rod. Apply clean engine oil to the bearing surface
and then install the bearing and bearing cap on the con-
necting rod. Tighten the nuts 84 N.m (62 lbf ft). FIGURE 72. CHECK THE CLEARANCE
BETWEEN THE CRANKSHAFT AND THRUST
8. Install the cylinder head as described in “Cylinder BEARINGS
Head, Installation”.

9. Install the oil pump. See “Oil Pump, Assembly And Crankshaft, Inspection And Repair
Installation” and FIGURE 57. 1. Carefully clean the crankshaft. There must not be any
10. Install the oil sump. See “Oil Sump, Installation” oil on the surfaces to be inspected.
and FIGURE 58. 2. Visually inspect the crankshaft for wear, cracks or
other damage. Replace the crankshaft if it has cracks. In-
CRANKSHAFT AND MAIN BEARINGS spect the oil seal surfaces for wear and damage
Crankshaft, Removal NOTE: The surface of the crankshaft has been hard-
ened by a process called “tufftrided” (a nitriding treat-
1. Remove the flywheel and flywheel housing. See ment) to increase its surface strength. Worn or damaged
“Flywheel, Removal”. journal surfaces of the crankshaft can not be repaired by
grinding.
2. Remove the timing gear case as described in “Timing
Gear Case, Removal”.
3. The following procedure can be used to check the ni-
3. Remove the oil sump. trided surface of the crankshaft:

29
 a. Prepare a test solution of 5 to 10% solution of am- 4. Check the crankshaft as shown in FIGURE 74. Rotate
monium cuprous chloride dissolved in distilled the crankshaft one turn and check the reading on the dial
water. indicator. If the difference between the highest and the
lowest reading is more than 0.06 mm (0.002 inch), re-
b. This procedure will not give correct results if pair or replace the crankshaft.
there is any oil on the surfaces to be inspected.
Hold the surface to be tested as level as possible
to prevent the test solution from flowing from the
small test area.

c. See FIGURE 73. Carefully apply a drop of the

test solution to the surface to be inspected. Do not
apply the test solution to any surface within ap-
proximately 10 mm (0.4 in) of an oil port. 9734

FIGURE 74. CRANKSHAFT INSPECTION

1. Carefully apply a drop of the test solution to the
surface of the bearing journal or other surface to be
inspected.
2. Do not apply the test solution to any surface
within approximately 10 mm (0.4 in) of an oil port.
5. Use a micrometer to measure the journals for the bear-
ings of the crankshaft. Make the measurements at the
positions shown in the SPECIFICATIONS. (See
FIGURE 112.)

1 Crankshaft Timing Gear, Replacement

2
1. Use a puller to remove the crankshaft timing gear as
shown in FIGURE 75. Remove the woodruff key from
the crankshaft.

FIGURE 73. CHECK THE NITRIDED SURFACE

OF THE CRANKSHAFT

d. Wait approximately 30 to 40 seconds. If the test

area becomes the color of copper, the nitrided
surface is worn and the crankshaft must be re-
placed. If the test surface does not change color,
the nitrided surface is good.
FIGURE 75. CRANKSHAFT TIMING GEAR,
e. Use steam to clean the test solution immediately
REMOVAL
after the test. The test solution will cause corro-
sion and damage the crankshaft if it is not re- 2. Install the woodruff key in the crankshaft. Align the
moved immediately after the test. slot in crankshaft timing gear with the woodruff key. In-

30
stall the crankshaft timing gear as shown in the envelope for the Plastigage to measure the width of
FIGURE 76. the plastic at its widest point. The scale will indicate the
clearance in millimetres or thousandths of an inch.

FIGURE 77. PLASTIGAGE ON A BEARING

FIGURE 76. CRANKSHAFT TIMING GEAR, JOURNAL
INSTALLATION
7. If the clearance is greater than the specifications, se-
How To Check The Clearance Between lect a new undersize bearing set and install it. Measure
The Crankshaft Bearings And Their the clearance again. If the clearance can not meet speci-
Journals fications with the available undersize bearings, the
crankshaft must be replaced.
1. Use Plastigage or equivalent to check the clearance.
The procedure is similar for both connecting rod bear-
ings and main bearings. If the engine has been removed
from the lift truck put the engine so that the crankshaft is
up. The weight of the crankshaft must be against the up-
per bearing half so that the total clearance can be mea-
sured correctly. If the engine is still in the lift truck, the
crankshaft must have a support to remove any additional
clearance between the upper bearing half and its journal.
2. All main bearing caps must be installed and their
capscrews tightened to the specifications.
FIGURE 78. MEASURE THE PLASTIGAGE
3. Check the rear main bearing first. Remove the cap for ON A BEARING JOURNAL
the rear main bearing. The procedure for checking the 8. If the clearance is within specifications, lubricate the
clearance of the other bearings is similar. bearing with engine oil and install the main bearing and
4. Clean the oil from the bearing half and journal to be bearing cap. Tighten the capscrews on the main bearing
checked. Put a piece of Plastigage across the full width cap to the correct specifications.
of the bearing journal as shown in FIGURE 77. Do not 9. Turn the crankshaft to make sure it rotates smoothly.
rotate the crankshaft when the Plastigage is between the
main bearing and its journal. Crankshaft, Installation
1. Before installation of the crankshaft, make sure all the
5. Install the main bearing cap and tighten the
capscrews. (See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.) The passages for oil in the crankshaft are clean.
capscrews must be tightened to their final torque or NOTE: See the following section “How To Check The
there will be an error in the measurement. Clearance Between The Crankshaft Bearings And Their
Journals” when the crankshaft is installed.
6. Remove the main bearing cap. The Plastigage will be
compressed and wider and will adhere to either the main 2. Clean the main bearings. Install the main bearings in
bearing or its journal. See FIGURE 78. Use the scale on the crankcase. The upper main bearings have an oil pas-

31
sage and an oil groove. The lower bearing half has a
smooth surface. Apply clean engine oil to the surface of
the bearings.
3. Carefully install the crankshaft.
4. Install the thrust bearings at the No. 3 main bearing
location. Make sure that the oil grooves in the thrust
bearings are toward the crankshaft. See FIGURE 79.
Push one end of the thrust bearing until both ends are
even with the surface of the crankcase.
2
3
2
1 POSITION
1. THRUST WASHER
2. OIL GROOVES
3. THE OIL GROOVES MUST BE
INSTALLED TOWARD THE THRUST
SURFACE OF THE CRANKSHAFT
FIGURE 79. INSTALLATION OF THE THRUST
WASHERS
CAUTION
It is very important that the thrust bearings are in-
stalled correctly. If they are installed wrong, the
crankshaft will be damaged because it will not re-
ceive correct lubrication. Install the thrust bearings
so that the oil grooves are toward the thrust surface
of the crankshaft.
32
5. Install the main bearings into the bearing caps. Apply
clean engine oil to the surface of the bearings and install
the bearing caps. The arrow marks of all the bearing
caps must point toward the fan end of the engine.
6. Apply silicon adhesive to the crankcase at the No. 5
main bearing position as shown in FIGURE 80.
FIGURE 80. APPLY SILICON SEALANT TO
THE CRANKCASE AT NO. 5 MAIN BEARING
NOTE: The No.2 and No. 4 bearing caps have the same
shape. The bearing cap that has the arrow mark on it is
the No. 2 bearing cap. The No. 4 bearing cap does not
have a mark.
During installation of the main bearing caps, adjust the
position of the No. 1 and No. 5 caps. The outer surface
of each bearing cap must be even with the surface of the
crankcase. Tighten the bolts for the main bearing caps to
a torque of 95 N.m (70 lbf ft) while the crankshaft is ro-
tated. Start at the No. 3 main bearing and work toward
each end of the crankshaft so that the No. 1 and No. 5
main bearing caps are tightened last. Repeat the tighten-
ing sequence and tighten the bolts to a final torque of
167 N.m (123 lbf ft).
7. Install the oil seals in the grooves of the No. 1 and No.
5 main bearing caps. Apply a sealant to them during in-
stallation. Use a screwdriver to push the seals approxi-
mately 0.5 mm (.020 inch) below the surface of the
crankcase. See FIGURE 81.
8. Install the timing gear case as described in “Timing
Gear Case, Installation”.
 10. Install the oil pump. See “Oil Pump, Assembly And
Installation” and FIGURE 57.

11. Install the oil sump. See “Oil Sump, Installation”

and FIGURE 58.

12. Install the flywheel housing and flywheel.

FLYWHEEL AND RING GEAR,

H2.00–3.00XL (H40–60XL)

FIGURE 81. INSTALLATION, CRANKSHAFT
OIL SEAL
9. Install the connecting rods as described in “Connect-
ing Rods, Assembly And Installation”.
NOTE: The engine for the H2.00–3.00XL
(H40–60XL) has a chain drive assembly for the hydrau-
lic pump. See THE HYDRAULIC PUMP DRIVE
ASSEMBLY, 1900 SRM 339 for additional informa-
tion.

1. FLYWHEEL HOUSING
2. OIL SEAL
3. SHIMS
1 4. DRIVE SPROCKET
5. LEAF CHAIN
6. SPECIAL BLOCK (UPPER)
7. SPECIAL BLOCK (LOWER)
8. BEARING
9. SNAP RING
10. DRIVEN SPROCKET
2

3
4
5

8
11742

10 7
9 8

FIGURE 82. CHAIN DRIVE ASSEMBLY, H2.00–3.00XL (H40–60XL)

33
Flywheel, Removal 1. See FIGURE 84. Use a hammer and chisel to break
the ring gear. Make sure that you do not damage the fly-
1. Remove two of the capscrews for the flywheel. Install wheel.
alignment pins in these holes to keep the flywheel from
falling. (Use capscrews with the heads removed.) Re-
move the remaining capscrews for the flywheel. Do not
remove the drive sprocket.

2. Check that the leaf chain has not become worn and too
long. See FIGURE 83. The chain must be replaced if di-
mension “X” is greater than 31.8 mm (1.25 in).

1
FIGURE 84. RING GEAR REMOVAL

2. The ring gear must be heated before it can be installed

on the flywheel. Use an oven that has a temperature con-
trol. Make sure that the ring gear is not heated to more
3
than 200°C (390°F).

2 WARNING
1. STRAIGHT EDGE Hot parts. Wear protective clothing and gloves to
5 2. LEAF CHAIN prevent burns.
3. DRIVE SPROCKET
4. DIMENSION “X”
8857 (CHAIN PUSHED DOWN) 3. Install the ring gear on the flywheel. Make sure that
5. DRIVEN SPROCKET the chamfer on the teeth is in the correct direction to-
ward the starter.
FIGURE 83. CHAIN LENGTH
Flywheel, Installation
3. Remove the drive sprocket. Do not let the shims fall.
NOTE: The engine for the H2.00–3.00XL
Remove the shim set and keep the shims together. Re-
(H40–60XL) has a chain drive assembly for the hydrau-
move the oil seal.
lic pump. See THE HYDRAULIC PUMP DRIVE
4. Remove the driven sprocket assembly and the leaf ASSEMBLY, 1900 SRM 339 for additional informa-
chain. If the bearings need replacing, use a puller to re- tion.
move the bearings from the sprocket.
1. Install the flywheel housing and flywheel as follows:
5. If the special blocks need replacing, remove the two
a. If the flywheel housing was removed, install it
capscrews that hold each block to the housing.
on the engine. Use Locktite 222 or Permatex
6. Check the flywheel and ring gear for damage. High Tack sealant on the both sides of the wash-
ers and install the capscrews. Tighten the M10 x
Ring Gear, Replacement 1.25 x 40 capscrews to 55 N.m (41 lbf ft). Tighten
the M12 x 1.5 x 30 capscrews to 94 N.m (69 lbf
WARNING ft). Install the seal in the flywheel housing. Use a
Wear eye protection for this operation to prevent eye sealant on the outside diameter of the seal. Install
injury from metal chips. You will be using a hammer the seal so that it is even with the inside edge (fly-
and chisel to break the ring gear. wheel side) of the flywheel housing.
Before the ring gear is removed, check the position of b. If new bearings are needed, install them on the
the chamfer on the teeth. driven sprocket. Install the special blocks in the

34
 flywheel housing. Tighten the capscrews for the tance from the housing to the face of the sprocket
blocks to 20 N.m (15 lbf ft). is dimension “X” as shown in FIGURE 85.

d. Install the driven sprocket and the chain. Make

sure the snap ring is on the bearing that fits in the
1. CRANKSHAFT
2. SHIMS torque converter housing. Install the flywheel on
3. FLYWHEEL the drive sprocket. Use Locktite 222 or Perma-
4. DRIVE GEAR tex High Tack sealant on the threads and install
5. DRIVEN GEAR
6. DIMENSION “X” = the capscrews for the flywheel. Tighten the
31.0 mm (1.22 in) capscrews to 120 N.m (90 lbf ft) in a cross pattern
as shown in FIGURE 86. Lubricate the chain and
sprockets with hydraulic oil.
4
3

2 FIGURE 86. TIGHTENING SEQUENCE

FLYWHEEL AND RING GEAR,

6 X H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM)

Flywheel, Removal (See FIGURE 88.)

1. Remove the capscrews for the flywheel, then remove
the flywheel.

2. If necessary, remove the flywheel housing and the

braces.

Ring Gear, Replacement

WARNING
Wear eye protection for this operation to prevent eye
5 11748
injury from metal chips. You will be using a hammer
and chisel to break the ring gear.

FIGURE 85. ADJUSTMENT, CHAIN DRIVE Before the ring gear is removed, check the position of
ASSEMBLY, H2.00–3.00XL (H40–60XL) the chamfer on the teeth.

c. Install the drive sprocket on the crankshaft 1. See FIGURE 84. Use a hammer and chisel to break
without the flywheel. Use shims between the the ring gear. Make sure that you do not damage the fly-
crankshaft and the drive sprocket so that the dis- wheel.

35
 3. Install the ring gear on the flywheel. Make sure that
the chamfer on the teeth is in the correct direction to-
ward the starter.

Flywheel, Installation (See FIGURE 88.)

1. Install the flywheel housing and flywheel as follows:

a. If the flywheel housing was removed, install it

FIGURE 87. RING GEAR REMOVAL
2. The ring gear must be heated before it can be installed
on the flywheel. Use an oven that has a temperature con-
trol. Make sure that the ring gear is not heated to more
than 200°C (390°F).
WARNING
Hot parts. Wear protective clothing and gloves to
prevent burns.
on the engine. Install the capscrews and bolt.
Tighten the special bolt (2) and nut first. Tighten
the nut to 46 N.m (34 lbf ft). Tighten the other
capscrews as shown in FIGURE 88.
b. Install the flywheel on the crankshaft. Apply an
adhesive sealant on the threads of the capscrews,
then install the capscrews for the flywheel. Tight-
en the capscrews to 120 N.m (89 lbf ft) as shown
in the sequence in FIGURE 88.

1 3 4
3 3 1. FLYWHEEL HOUSING
2. SPECIAL BOLT AND NUT,
4 2 46 N.m (34 lbf ft)
3. CAPSCREWS TO ENGINE
BLOCK (M10), 55 N.m (41 lbf ft)
4. CAPSCREWS TO ENGINE
BLOCK (M12), 94 N.m (69 lbf ft)

12767

TIGHTENING SEQUENCE

5
5. CAPSCREWS TO BRACES,
5
98 N.m (72 lbf ft)
5 5 6. FLYWHEEL CAPSCREWS,
6 120 N.m (89 lbf ft)

FIGURE 88. FLYWHEEL AND HOUSING, H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM)

36
 2 5

1. FLYWHEEL HOUSING
2. FLYWHEEL
5 3. SUPPORT PLATE
4. DRIVE PLATE
5. BRACE

FIGURE 89. FLYWHEEL AND HOUSING, H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM)

ENGINE BLOCK AND CYLINDER LINERS
Cylinder Liners, Inspection
Inspect the cylinder liner for wear and damage. Measure
the inside diameter of each cylinder liner to find the
amount of wear. Do the measurement of the liner at the
area that is approximately 15 mm (0.6 inch) below the
surface of the engine block. Measure the diameter in a
minimum of two directions: (X—X) perpendicular to
the axis of the crankshaft and (Y—Y) parallel to the axis
of the crankshaft. If the inside diameter of the cylinder
liner is more than the SPECIFICATIONS, replace the
cylinder liner.
2 and the special shaft tool to the bottom of the cylinder
CAUTION
The cylinder liners have a chrome surface. Do not try
to repair a cylinder liner that has damage. A dam-
aged cylinder liner must be replaced.
Replacement Of A Cylinder Liner
Special Tools: Cylinder liner remover tool,
Isuzu Part No. 5–8840–2039–0
Cylinder liner installation tool,
Isuzu Part No. 5–8840–2040–0
1. To remove the cylinder liner, install the remover tool
liner. Use a press to push the liner from the engine block.
See FIGURE 90.

2. Before installation of the cylinder liners, check the

1
1. CYLINDER LINER REMOVER,
ISUZU PART NO. 5–8840–2039–0
2. PRESS
FIGURE 90. CYLINDER LINER REMOVAL
surface of the engine block for distortion. Make the
measurements at the positions shown in FIGURE 91. If
the amount of distortion is more than 0.2 mm (0.008 in),
replace the engine block.
CAUTION
9732 The cylinder liners can be easily damaged. Be careful
when handling them. Do not handle cylinder liners
more than necessary because a rust inhibitor has
been applied to their surface.

37

9744
A
E F
C D
B
FIGURE 91. CHECK THE SURFACE OF THE
ENGINE BLOCK FOR DISTORTION
3. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder block
where the replacement cylinder liner will be installed. A
grade of cylinder liner will be selected according to this
measurement. Measure the diameter at W—W, X—X,
Y—Y, and Z—Z as shown in FIGURE 92. Make the
measurements at approximately 98 mm (3.86 in) below
the surface of the cylinder block. Calculate the average
value of the four measurements to find the correct cylin-
der bore. This measurement will be used with the mea-
surement in step 4 to select the correct grade of cylinder
liner.
FIGURE 92. MEASURE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DIAMETER
4. Make an X—X and Y—Y measurement at three
points on the cylinder liner as shown in FIGURE 93.
38
The following measuring points are below the upper
surface of the cylinder liner:
point 1 = 20 mm (0.79 in)
point 2 = 90 mm (3.54 in)
point 3 = 160 mm (6.30 in)
FIGURE 93. MEASURE THE OUTSIDE
DIAMETER OF THE CYLINDER LINER
Calculate the average value of the six measurements to
find the correct grade of cylinder liner. The grades of
cylinder liners are shown in the SPECIFICATIONS (see
Cylinder Liners, Replacement).
5. Carefully clean the bore in the engine block where the
cylinder liner will be installed. Make sure the tools and
press are ready before installation of the cylinder liner is
begun. See the following paragraphs to make the prepa-
rations.
WARNING
Frozen carbon dioxide (dry ice) can cause injury.
Make sure gloves and protective clothing are worn
when handling the cold parts.
6. Cool the cylinder liner with frozen carbon dioxide
(dry ice). Insert the cylinder liner in its bore in the cylin-
der block. Do this work quickly and carefully so that the
cylinder liner is installed while it is cold. Use a press and
the special installation tool to install the cylinder liner.
See FIGURE 94. Make sure the alignment between the
cylinder liner and the cylinder block is correct during in-
stallation.
 CAUTION
The cylinder liners have a chrome surface. After in-
stallation of the cylinder liners, their surfaces must
1 not be machined.

8. Check the clearance between the cylinder liner and

the piston. See ”Pistons and Connecting Rods” for more
information.
9731

1. INSTALLATION TOOL,
ISUZU PART NO. 5–8840–2040–0
COOLING SYSTEM
FIGURE 94. CYLINDER LINER INSTALLATION

Coolant Pump, Removal

Alternative method. If frozen carbon dioxide (dry ice)
is not available, the cylinder liner can be installed with a
1. Drain the cooling system
press. This procedure is more difficult. Use a press and
the special installation tool to install the cylinder liner.
See FIGURE 94. Make sure the alignment between the 2. Remove the fan belt, the fan, and the pulley.
cylinder liner and the cylinder block is correct during in-
stallation. Use the press to apply 4900 N (1100 lbf) to in-
stall the cylinder liner in the bore. Use the press to apply 3. Remove the hoses from the coolant pump.
24 500 N (5513 lbf) to finish installation of the cylinder
liner in the cylinder block. 4. Remove the coolant pump from the engine.

7. Measure the position of the cylinder liner. The cylin-

der liner must extend 0.10 mm (0.004 in) above the sur- Coolant Pump, Disassembly
face of the cylinder block. See FIGURE 95. The differ- (See FIGURE 96.)
ence in the height of adjacent cylinder liners must be less
than 0.03 mm (0.0012 in).
CAUTION
Do not use a hammer to disassemble parts of the
coolant pump. Some parts are cast iron and can be
broken if they are hit with a hammer.

1. Remove the cover (2) and gasket (3) from the pump
body (1).

2. Use a press and adapter or a special puller (Hyster Part

No. 368758) to remove the hub (7).
9728

FIGURE 95. MEASURE THE CYLINDER LINER

3. Remove the set screw (10) that holds the bearing unit
POSITION
in the pump body.

39
 12
1. PUMP BODY 2
2. COVER
3. GASKET 14
4. IMPELLER 10 3
5. BEARING
6. SEAL 11
4
7. HUB
8. DEFLECTOR
9. JOINT (2)
1

6
8 10. SET SCREW
5 11. WASHER
12. SCREW (3)
7 13. PLUG
13 14. GASKET
9 15. CAPSCREW (2)
16. STUD (3)
17. NUT (3)
16 15 18. WASHER (3)
17
18

FIGURE 96. COOLANT PUMP

4. Use a press to push the shaft from the impeller (4) and
the seal (6).
Coolant Pump, Assembly And Installation
1. Install the bearing unit (5) so that the holes for the set
screw are aligned. See FIGURE 96. Install the set screw.
2. Install the seals. Apply a thin coat of liquid sealant to
the outer circumference of the seal (6) during installa-
tion.
3. Use a press to install the impeller. The clearance be-
tween the impeller and the pump body must be 0.3 to 0.6
mm (0.012 to 0.024 inch).
4. Install the rear cover.
5. Install the hub. Use a press to push the hub on the
shaft.
6. Install the coolant pump.
7. Adjust the tension of the fan belt as described in the
section PERIODIC MAINTENANCE.
Thermostat, Replacement (See
FIGURE 30.)
1. Drain the cooling system so that the coolant level is
below the thermostat position and disconnect the top
hose from the outlet connection.
2. Remove the capscrews and remove the outlet connec-
tion.
3. Remove the thermostat.
4. Make sure that the surfaces for the joint in the outlet
are clean. Install a new thermostat in the housing.
5. Use a new gasket and install the outlet connection.
Tighten the capscrews.
6. Connect the top hose and fill the cooling system.

40
 CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS
VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT 1. Remove the valve cover. Rotate the crankshaft until
the number 1 piston is at TDC on the compression
NOTE: Before you check the clearance of the valves, stroke as indicated by the timing marks on the crank-
check the torque of the bracket bolts for the rocker arm shaft pulley. See FIGURE 98. In this position, both
assembly. The correct torque is 54 to 58 N.m (40 to 43 rocker arms for the number 1 cylinder will be loose.
lbf ft).
2. Adjust the valves that are marked “A” in the table of
Number 1 cylinder is at the end of the engine with the FIGURE 97. Do the adjustments when the engine is
cooling fan. The exhaust valve is the first valve in the se- cold. The correct valve clearance for all valves is 0.40
quence. mm (0.016 in).
The valve clearance is measured between the top of the
3. Rotate the crankshaft 360° until the TDC timing mark
valve stem and the rocker arm as shown in FIGURE 97.
is aligned again as shown in FIGURE 98. At this posi-
Valve clearance (cold)
tion, the number 4 piston will be at TDC on the com-
Inlet 0.40 mm (0.016 in)
pression stroke. Adjust the valves that are marked “B” in
Exhaust 0.40 mm (0.016 in)
the table of FIGURE 97.

9723

CYLINDER FIGURE 98. TIMING MARKS

1 2 3 4
E I I E E I I E
A A A B A B B B CHECK THE TIMING OF THE FUEL
E = EXHAUST INJECTION PUMP, MODEL VE
I = INTAKE
A – ADJUST THESE VALVES WHEN No. 1 PISTON 1. Remove the capscrew (2) from the center of the dis-
IS AT TDC ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE tributor head (1) as shown in FIGURE 99. Use a dial in-
B – ADJUST THESE VALVES WHEN No. 4 PISTON dicator so that the movement of the plunger can be mea-
IS AT TDC ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE sured. The movement of the plunger can be measured
FIGURE 97. VALVE CLEARANCE through the hole in the distributor head where the
ADJUSTMENT capscrew was removed.

41
 12611

1
FIGURE 100. TIMING MARKS

1. CAPSCREW
2. DISTRIBUTOR HEAD
FIGURE 99. FUEL INJECTION PUMP,
MODEL VE
2. Rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at
TDC on the compression stroke. Read the mark for tim-
ing on the crankshaft pulley that is aligned with the indi-
cator on the gear case shown in FIGURE 100. Rotate the
crankshaft before and after TDC to find the maximum
movement of the plunger toward the end of the distribu-
tor head.
FUEL INJECTORS
The engine will run roughly if a fuel injector is damaged
or dirty. To find which fuel injector has a problem, oper-
ate the engine at approximately 1000 rpm. Loosen and
tighten the connection to the inlet of each fuel injector in
a sequence. When the connection to the fuel injector
with a problem is loosened, there will not be a change in
the engine speed.
WARNING
Do not put your hands on fuel lines under pressure.
Fuel oil can be injected into your body by the hy-
draulic pressure.

3. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise approximate-

ly 30°. Now rotate the crankshaft clockwise slowly.

4. Stop rotating the crankshaft when the plunger is 0.50

mm (0.020 in) less than its maximum movement found
in step 2. 6
5 7
5. Read the mark for timing on the crankshaft pulley that
is aligned with the indicator on the gear case. See 4
FIGURE 100. The correct timing for injection is 16° 3
BTDC. 2

6. If the timing is not correct, loosen the fuel injection

pump and rotate it as necessary. Repeat the procedure
1
described in step 5 until the timing is correct.
3. SPACER
7. Remove the dial gauge and install the capscrew in the 4. SPRING SEAT
distributor head. 1. RETAINING NUT 5. SPRING
2. INJECTION 6. ADJUSTMENT SHIM
NOZZLE 7. NOZZLE HOLDER
8. Remove the air from the fuel system. The procedure is
described in “Remove the Air From the Fuel System”. FIGURE 101. FUEL INJECTOR

42
Removal
1. Disconnect the high pressure line at the inlet to the
fuel injector. Do not bend the fuel line.
2. Remove the nuts, washers, and the bracket holders for
the fuel injectors. See FIGURE 104. Use a slide ham-
mer and a remover tool to pull the fuel injectors from the
cylinder head. Remove the O–rings and gaskets. See
FIGURE 103.
NOTE: A remover tool for the fuel injectors is available
from Isuzu (Isuzu Part No. 5–8840–2034–0).
Inspection
NOTE: The inspection and repair of fuel injectors re-
quire special tools and training. Many users have a spe-
cial repair service make repairs on fuel injectors. Fuel
injector nozzles that have damage or are dirty will cause
black smoke in the exhaust, a decrease in engine power,
and an increase in engine noise.
1. Carefully clean the parts of the fuel injector in a min-
eral oil solvent. The needle valves are specially fitted.
Do not use an abrasive on the fitted areas of the needle
valve. To prevent corrosion, do not touch the fitted ares
of the needle valve with your fingers.
WARNING
Make sure that the nozzle of the injector is away
from the operator during a test. Test oil can be
injected into your body by the hydraulic pressure.
5. Use an injector tester to check the pressure at which
the nozzle operates. The correct pressure is 18.14 MPa
(2630 psi).
6. See FIGURE 101. To change the pressure at which
the nozzle operates, add or subtract shims (6). Shims are
available in thicknesses of 0.025 mm (0.001 in). The
maximum number of shims that can be used in a fuel in-
jector is 40. Each shim will add or subtract approximate-
ly 370 kPa (53.6 psi) to the nozzle opening pressure.
Installation
1. See FIGURE 103. Install gaskets (1) and O–rings (2)
for each fuel injector. Install the fuel injectors (3) and the
holder brackets (4) to the cylinder head. Install the nuts
and washers (5) for the holder brackets. Tighten the nuts
to 38 N.m (28 lbf ft). See FIGURE 104.
1. INJECTOR TESTER
2. FUEL INJECTOR

2. Carefully check all parts for wear and damage. See

FIGURE 101. The nozzle and needle valve (2) must be
replaced if there is any wear or damage. Hold the nozzle
2
and needle valve in a vertical position. Pull the needle
valve upward approximately 1/3 of its length and release
it. The needle must lower smoothly into its seat by its 1
own weight. If the needle valve does not pass this test,
the nozzle and needle valve (2) must be replaced.

3. The operation of the fuel injector must be checked

with an injection tester. See FIGURE 102. The injection
tester uses a special oil for calibration tests.
PATTERN NOT CORRECT
Special oils for calibration tests:
SHELL (UK) Calibration fluid C
2
SHELL (worldwide) Calibration fluid B
ESSO Calibration fluid IL 1838
CASTROL Calibration oil 8327 4°
4. Check the spray pattern of the nozzle. See
FIGURE 102. If the spray pattern is not correct, the nee-
dle valve does not fit the valve seat correctly. Remove
carbon deposits or replace parts as required. FIGURE 102. CHECK THE FUEL INJECTORS

43
2. Install the high pressure fuel line and tighten the con- DIESEL FUEL FILTER
nections. Install the line clamps if they were removed.
3. Remove the air from the fuel system. See “Remove NOTE: Engines that have a fuel injection pump, model
Air From The Fuel System”. VE, have a water separator in the bottom of the fuel fil-
ter. A sender unit in the bottom of the fuel filter illumi-
1. GASKET nates an indicator light on the instrument panel if there is
3
2. O–RING water in the water separator.
3. FUEL INJECTOR 5
4. HOLDER BRACKET
4
5. WASHER
Filter Replacement

2 1. See FIGURE 105. Disconnect the two sender wires

1 from the bottom of the fuel filter. Remove the fuel filter
FIGURE 103. FUEL INJECTOR ASSEMBLY
4. When the engine can be operated, check for fuel
leaks.
from its mount. Remove the parts that include the sender
unit from the bottom of the fuel filter.
2. Install the parts that include the sender unit in the new
fuel filter. Use a new O–ring between the fuel filter and
the sender unit. Lubricate the O–ring with diesel fuel
when it is installed. When the engine can be operated,
check for leaks.

Remove Air from the Fuel System

NOTE: The fuel injection pump will normally remove

FIGURE 104. TIGHTEN THE NUT FOR THE
HOLDER BRACKET FOR THE FUEL INJECTOR
small amounts of air from the fuel system when the en-
gine is started. If the fuel pump, fuel injection pump, or
the fuel filter is empty, it is necessary to disconnect a fit-
ting and fill the components of the fuel system before the
engine will start.

44
 a. Make sure there is fuel in the fuel tank.
1 1. HAND PUMP b. Loosen a fitting on the outlet of the fuel system
2. FILTER component that must be filled with fuel. Push the
3. WATER
SEDIMENT CAP plunger of the hand pump several times until the
4. SENDER, air is removed and the component is filled with
FLOAT ASSEMBLY fuel. Tighten the fitting.
5. O–RING
6. WIRE
CONNECTION, THROTTLE LINKAGE, ADJUSTMENT
SENDER (2)
7. DRAIN VALVE 1. Adjust the throttle linkage so that the throttle plate is
AND HOSE fully open when the throttle pedal touches the floor.
2 Make the adjustment by changing the length of the cable
where it is installed to the bracket on the inlet manifold.
5
4 2. Adjust the stop for the throttle pedal so that the throttle
plate is completely closed when the pedal is released.
3
The stop is under the throttle pedal.

6
7 IDLE SPEED, ADJUSTMENT

12609
FIGURE 105. FUEL FILTER WITH A WATER
SEPARATOR
The fuel injection pump, Model VE, has a rotary vane
fuel pump inside of the fuel injection pump. The fuel in-
jection pump must be filled with fuel before the engine
will start. A hand pump is installed in the top of the fuel
filter. See FIGURE 105. This hand pump can be used to
fill the fuel system before trying to start the engine. The
following procedure is for diesel engines with a fuel in-
jection pump, Model VE:
The stop screw at the linkage for the throttle plate con-
trols the idle speed of the engine. Turn the screw as nec-
essary to get the specification. The correct idle speed for
the engine is 750 to 800 rpm for the H2.00–3.00XL
(H40–60XL) units and 700 to 750 rpm for the
H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM) units.
CHECK THE ELEMENTS FOR THE COLD
START AID SYSTEM
Check the condition of the glow plugs for the cold start
aid system. See the section THE ELECTRICAL SYS-
TEM for more information.

SPECIFICATIONS
Engine Data
1. ADAPTER
Power Rating at 2300 rpm = 40 kW (54 bhp) 5–8531–7001–0
Type 4 – stroke diesel 1
Firing order 1–3–4–2
Displacement 2771 cm3 (169 in3)
Bore 93 mm (3.661 in)
Stroke l02 mm (4.016 in)
Compression ratio 18.2 : 1
Compression pressure at 200 rpm. See FIGURE 106.
FIGURE 106. CHECK THE COMPRESSION
– Production 3038 kPa (441 psi)
PRESSURE
– Service limit 2156 kPa (313 psi)

45
Fuel injection timing (static) 16° BTDC Angle of valve face (all) 45°
Fuel injector – nozzle pressure Depth of valve below cylinder head
18.14 MPa (2630 psi) 0.7 mm (0.027 in) minimum
Governed speed 2.5 mm (0.010 in) maximum
– H2.00–3.00XL (H40–60XL) 2200 to 2300 rpm
Valve specifications: See FIGURE 108.
– H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM) 2100 to 2200 rpm
Idle speed
– H2.00–3.00XL (H40–60XL) 750 to 800rpm
– H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM) 700–750 rpm
Valve clearance (cold)
– Inlet 0.40 mm (0.016 in)
– Exhaust 0.40 mm (0.016 in)
Cooling System
DIAMETER OF VALVE STEM
Thermostat (begin to open) 76.5°C (170°F) 9719
Inlet:
Cylinder Head – Production 7.949 to 7.961 mm
(0.3129 to 0.3134 in)
Maximum distortion of cylinder head.
– Service limit) 7.88 mm (0.3102 in)
(See FIGURE 10.) Exhaust:
– Production 0.05 mm (0.002 in) –Production 7.921 to 7.936 mm
– Service limit 0.20 mm (0.008 in) (0.3118 to 0.3124 in)
– Maximum grinding allowance – Service limit 7.88 mm (0.3102 in)
0.3 mm (0.012 in)
Thickness of cylinder head
– Production 91.95 to 92.05 mm
(3.620 to 3.624 in)
Minimum thickness of head in service
91.65 mm (3.60 in)
Maximum distortion of cylinder head at the manifold
surfaces:
– Production 0.05 mm (0.002 in) A = DEPTH OF VALVE
9764

– Service limit 0.20 mm (0.008 in) Inlet:

– Maximum grinding allowance 0.40 mm (0.016 in) – Production 0.73 mm (0.029 in)
Height of valve guide above surface of cylinder head – Service limit 1.28 mm (0.050 in)
(see FIGURE 13.): 13.0 mm (0.51 in) Exhaust:
– Production 0.70 mm (0.028 in)
Valve Specifications – Service limit 1.20 mm (0.047 in)
Valve clearance adjustment at TDC for each cylinder: B = CONTACT WIDTH
0.40 mm (0.016 in) Inlet:
Valve seat specifications: See FIGURE 107. – Production 1.7 mm (0.067 in)
– Service limit 2.2 mm (0.087 in)
Exhaust:
1 2
– Production 2.0 mm (0.079 in)
– Service limit 2.5 mm (0.098 in)



C = THICKNESS OF VALVE HEAD
Inlet and Exhaust Valves:
– Production 1.8 mm (0.07 in)
1. CYLINDER 

– Service limit 1.5 mm (0.06 in)
HEAD
2. VALVE SEAT FIGURE 108. VALVE SPECIFICATIONS

FIGURE 107. VALVE SEAT SPECIFICATIONS

46
Clearance between inlet valve and guide Rocker Shaft Assembly
– Production 0.039 to 0.069 mm Rocker arm shaft, diameter
(0.0015 to 0.0027 in) – Production 18.98 to 19.0 mm (0.747 to 0.748 in)
– Service limit 0.20 mm (0.008 in) – Service limit l8.85 mm (0.742 in)
Clearance between exhaust valve and guide Rocker arms, clearance between bushing and shaft
– Production – Production 0.01 to 0.05 mm (0.0004 to 0.002 in)
0.064 to 0.093 mm (0.0025 to 0.0037 in) – Service limit 0.2 mm (0.008 in)
– Service limit 0.25 mm (0.010 in)
Rocker arms, bushing internal diameter:
Valve springs: See FIGURE 109. – Production 19.01 to 19.03 mm (0.748 to 0.749 in)
– Service limit 19.05 mm (0.750 in)
Cam followers (tappets), outside diameter:
A
– Production 12.97 to 12.99 mm (0.510 to 0.511 in)
– Service limit 12.95 mm (0.509 in)
Clearance between cam followers (tappets) and cylin-
der block:
– Production 0.03 mm (0.001 in)
– Service limit 0.1 mm (0.004 in)
B
9715 C Camshaft (See FIGURE 110.)

9740

A. VARIATION FROM VERTICAL

– Production less than 1.5 mm (0.06 in)
– Service limit 2.5 mm (0.984 in)
B.FREE LENGTH:
– Standard 49.7 mm (1.96 in)
– Service Limit 48.2 mm (1.90 in)
C. INSTALLATION HEIGHT:
THE VALVE SPRINGS NEED A MINIMUM
FORCE OF 290 to 326 N (63.8 to 71.7 lbf) TO 12631
COMPRESS THEM TO A HEIGHT OF 38.9 mm CAMSHAFT JOURNAL:
(1.53 in) – Production 49.945 to 49.975 mm
(1.966 to 1.968 in)
– Service limit 49.60 mm (1.953 in)
Maximum variation between (AA) and (BB)
or across surface 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
CAMSHAFT LOBE (X):
– Production 42.08 mm (1.65 in)
– Service limit 41.65 mm (1.64 in)

FIGURE 110. CAMSHAFT SPECIFICATIONS

Camshaft “run–out” (see FIGURE 44.)
– Production less than 0.02 mm (0.0008 in)
– Service limit 0.10 mm (0.004 in)
Variation from front to rear of a cam lobe or a
FIGURE 109. VALVE SPRING SPECIFICATIONS bearing journal:

47
– Production less than 0.03 mm (0.001 in) Piston Grade C: 93.005 to 93.024 mm
– Service limit 0.05 mm (0.002 in) (3.6616 to 3.6623 in)
Internal diameter of camshaft bearings: Piston ring end clearance (see FIGURE 63.):
– Production Piston rings No. 1 and 2
50.00 to 50.03 mm (1.9685 to 1.9696 in) – Production 0.2 to 0.4 mm (0.008 to 0.016 in)
– Service limit 50.08 mm (1.9716 in) – Service limit 1.5 mm (0.059 in)
Oil control ring 0.1 to 0.3 mm (0.004 to 0.012 in)
Clearance between journals and bearings
– Service limit 1.5 mm (0.059 in)
– Production 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
– Service limit 0.12 mm (0.005 in) Piston ring clearance in groove (see FIGURE 64.)
Piston Ring No. 1
Axial Clearance between thrust plate and camshaft – Production 0.09 to 0.125 mm (0.0035 to 0.0049 in)
journal – Service limit 0.15 mm (0.006 in)
– Production 0.050 to 0.114 mm (0.002 to 0.0045 in)
Piston Ring No. 2
– Service limit 0.2 mm (0.008 in)
– Production 0.05 to 0.075 mm (0.002 to 0.003 in)
Timing Gears – Service limit 0.15 mm (0.006 in)
Clearance between gears (all) Oil Control Ring
– Production 0.010 to 0.17 mm (0.0039 to 0.0067 in) – Production 0.03 to 0.07 mm (0.0012 to 0.0028 in)
– Service limit 0.30 mm (0.012 in) – Service limit 0.15 mm (0.006 in)
Piston pin diameter
Axial clearance between idler gear “A” and
– Production 31.0 mm (1.220 in)
the retainer plate (see FIGURE 34.):
– Service limit 30.97 mm (1.219 in)
– Production 0.007 mm (0.0028 in)
– Service limit 0.30 mm (0.012 in) Diameter of piston pin hole in piston
– Production
Clearance between idler gear “A” and idler gear shaft: 31.002 to 31.015 mm (1.2205 to 1.2211 in)
– Production
Clearance between piston pin and piston
0.025 to 0.085 mm (0.0010 to 0.0033 in)
– Production
– Service limit 0.2 mm (0.008 in)
0.002 to 0.015 mm (0.00008 to 0.0006 in)
Inner diameter of idler gear “A” (see FIGURE 37.):
– Production 45.0 to 45.03 mm (1.7717 to 1.7718 in)
Connecting Rods
– Service limit 45.10 mm (1.7756 in) Clearance between piston pin and bushing in
connecting rod:
– Production
0.008 to 0.020 mm (0.0003 to 0.0008 in)
– Service limit 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
Piston pin, outside diameter
1 = 0.04 to 0.06 mm (0.016 to 0.024 in) – Production
26.995 to 27.000 mm (1.0628 to 1.0630 in)
2 = 23.7 to 24.0 mm (0.933 to 0.945 in)
– Service limit 26.97 mm (1.0618 in)
FIGURE 111. BEARING SPECIFICATIONS, Connecting rod alignment (see FIGURE 65.)
IDLER GEAR “B”
Crankshaft (See FIGURE 112.)
Pistons Crankshaft “run–out”
– Production less than 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
Select a piston grade that keeps the clearance between – Service limit 0.08 mm (0.003 in)
pistons and cylinder liner within the following limits:
Clearance between main journals and main bearings
0.25 to 0.45 mm (0.0098 to 0.0177 in)
– Production
The bore diameter of the installed cylinder liner is 0.035 to 0.080 mm (0.0014 to 0.0036 in)
– Standard 93.021 to 93.060 mm (3.662 to 3.663 in) – Service limit 0.11 mm (0.0043 in)
Piston Grade A: 92.985 to 93.004 mm Clearance between connecting rod journals and bear-
(3.660 to 3.662 in) ings

48
– Production Wear limit [measured 15 mm (0.60 in) below top
0.029 to 0.066 mm (0.0011 to 0.0026 in) of cylinder liner) Diameter:
– Service limit 0.10 mm (0.0039 in) – Production
Axial Clearance 93.021 to 93.060 mm (3.662 to 3.663 in)
– Production 0.010 mm (0.0039 in) – Service limit 93.10 mm (3.665 in)
– Service limit 0.30 mm (0.012 in)
Cylinder Liners, Replacement*
If the cylinder bore diameter is
95.001 to 95.010 mm (3.740l9 to 3.74055 in)
use Grade 1
Outside diameter 95.011 to 95.020 mm
(3.74059 to 3.74094 in)
If the cylinder bore diameter is
Cylinder diameter 95.011 to 95.020 mm
(3.74059 to 3.74094 in)
use Grade 2
Outside diameter 95.021 to 95.030 mm
(3.74098 to 3.74133 in)
If the cylinder bore diameter is
Cylinder
9741
diameter 95.021 to 95.030 mm
(3.74098 to 3.74133 in)
use Grade 3
Outside diameter 95.031 to 95.040 mm
(3.74137 to 3.74173 in)
*See “Engine Block And Cylinder Liners” for information.

Diameter of main bearing journal Lubrication System

– Production 69.917 to 69.932 mm
Capacity with filter 5.2 liter (5.5 qt)
(2.7526 to 2.7531 in)
– Service limit 69.10 mm (2.7524 in) Oil pump, clearance between vane, rotor, and cover
Diameter of connecting rod journal (see FIGURE 50.):
– Production 52.915 to 52.930 mm – Production 0.02 to 0.07 mm
(2.0833 to 2.0839 in) (0.0008 to 0.0026 in)
– Service limit 52.906 mm (2.0829 in) – Service limit 0.15 mm (0.006 in)
Maximum difference between the measurements Oil pump, clearance between vane and rotor
for each bearing journal: (see FIGURE 51.):
– Production 0.05 mm (0.002 in) or less – Production less than 0.014 mm (0.006 in)
– Service limit 0.08 mm (0.003 in)
– Service limit 0.20 mm (0.008 in)
FIGURE 112. CRANKSHAFT SPECIFICATIONS Oil pump, clearance between vane and pump body
(see FIGURE 52.):
Cylinder Block Distortion – Production 0.20 to 0.26 mm (0.008 to 0.011 in)
Cylinder block distortion (see FIGURE 91.): – Service limit 0.40 mm (0.016 in)
– Production less than 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
Oil pump, clearance between rotor shaft and pump
– Service limit 0.2 mm (0.008 in)
body (see FIGURE 54.):
Cylinder Liners – Production 0.04 mm (0.016 in)
– Service limit 0.40 mm (0.008 in)
Extension of cylinder liner above surface of cylinder
block (See FIGURE 95.): 0.10 mm (0.004 in) Oil pressure at 2000 rpm and 80°C (176°F)
Difference in the installed height of adjacent cylinder 294 kPa (43 psi)
liners: less than 0.03 mm (0.0012 in) Relief valve pressure 422 to 461 kPa (61 to 67 psi)

49
 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
ITEM SPECIFICATION

CAMSHAFT GEAR CAPSCREW 108 N.m (80 lbf ft)

CAMSHAFT THRUST PLATE CAPSCREWS 20 N.m (15 lbf ft)
CONNECTING ROD CAP CAPSCREWS 84 N.m (62 lbf ft)
COOLANT PUMP CAPSCREWS 20 N.m (15 lbf ft)
CRANKSHAFT PULLEY CAPSCREW 195 N.m (145 lbf ft)
CYLINDER HEAD CAPSCREWS
1st step (new capscrew) 39 N.m (29 lbf ft)
2nd step (new capscrew) 86 N.m (64 lbf ft)
1st step (used capscrew) 84 N.m (62 lbf ft)
2nd step (used capscrew) 103 N.m (76 lbf ft)
ENGINE MOUNT TO BLOCK CAPSCREWS 40 N.m (30 lbf ft)
EXHAUST MANIFOLD CAPSCREWS 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
FLYWHEEL CAPSCREWS
H2.00–3.00XL (H40–60XL) 120 N.m (90 lbf ft)
H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM) 120 N.m (90 lbf ft)
FLYWHEEL HOUSING CAPSCREWS, H2.00–3.00XL (H40–60XL)
M10 x 1.25 x 40 55 N.m (41 lbf ft)
M12 x 1.5 x 30 94 N.m (69 lbf ft)
FLYWHEEL HOUSING CAPSCREWS, H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM) See FIGURE 88.
FUEL INJECTOR BRACKET NUTS 38 N.m (28 lbf ft)
FUEL INJECTOR LINE SLEEVE NUTS 35 N.m (26 lbf ft)
GLOW PLUGS 23 N.m (17 lbf ft)
HYDRAULIC PUMP DRIVE BLOCK CAPSCREWS 20 N.m (15 lbf ft)
INLET MANIFOLD CAPSCREWS 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
MAIN BEARING CAP CAPSCREWS 167 N.m (123 lbf ft)
OIL SUMP CAPSCREWS 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
ROCKER ARM ADJUSTMENT NUTS 15 N.m (11 lbf ft)
ROCKER ARM BRACKET CAPSCREWS 54 N.m (40 lbf ft)
TIMING GEAR COVER CAPSCREWS
M8 x 1.25 15 N.m (11 lbf ft)
M12 x 1.25 80 N.m (60 lbf ft)
TIMING GEAR CASE CAPSCREWS 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
TIMING GEARS
Idler Gear “A” 20 N.m (15 lbf ft)
Idler Gear “B” 108 N.m (80 lbf ft)
VALVE COVER CAPSCREWS 13 N.m (10 lbf ft)

50
 INTRODUCTION
GENERAL
This section has the repair instructions for the engine.
Removal, disassembly, repair, assembly, installation,
checks and adjustments and troubleshooting are in-
cluded. The specifications are given at the end of the
section.
Additional information on engine components are in the
sections for THE CARBURETOR, THE LPG FUEL
SYSTEM and THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
WARNING
Some gaskets used in this engine can contain
dangerous fibers. Breathing dust from these fibers is
a cancer or lung disease hazard. Do not create dust!
Use vacuum equipment for asbestos or follow the
cleaning procedure described below.
• Make sure the gasket material is wet with
water or oil to prevent particles in the air.
• Use a hand scraper to remove old gasket mate-
rial. Do not use a power tool or compressed air.
• Discard all asbestos material in a closed con-
tainer while it is still wet.
Put a “DANGEROUS FIBERS” warning label on
the container. Discard dangerous fiber material
safely.
CAUTION
Disconnect the battery cables before doing any
disassembly and repair to the engine or parts of the
electrical system.
REPAIRS
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE
ENGINE
NOTE: The removal and installation procedures for the
engine are not included in this section. See the section
for THE FRAME for more information.
The diodes and resistors in the electrical system can
be damaged if the following cautions are not
followed:
• Do not disconnect the battery when the
engine is running. The voltage surge can damage
the diodes and resistors.
• Do not disconnect an electric wire before the
engine is stopped and the key switch is “OFF”.
• Do not cause a short circuit by connection of
the electric wires to the wrong terminals. Make
sure a correct identification is made of the wire
before it is connected.
• Make sure a battery is the correct voltage and
polarity before it is connected.
• Do not check for current flow by making a
spark because the transistors can be damaged.
DESCRIPTION
The Mazda M4–2.0G engine is a four cylinder engine
that has a displacement of 1998 cm3 (121.9 in3). The fir-
ing order is 1–3–4–2. It is available with either a gaso-
line or an LPG fuel system. The number one cylinder is
toward the end of the engine with the cooling fan.
The overhead camshaft is driven by a cog belt. The cam-
shaft operates the rocker arms that actuate the valves.
The crankshaft has five main bearings. The main bear-
ing in the center of the crankshaft is also the thrust bear-
ing.
The pistons are aluminum alloy and have three piston
rings. Each of the two compression rings have a special
shape designed for its position on the piston. The third
piston ring is the oil control ring.
CYLINDER HEAD, CAMSHAFT AND
VALVE MECHANISM
Removal
1. Disconnect the connections at the battery.
2. Drain the cooling system.
1
3. Remove the air cleaner, the carburetor linkage, the in-
let and exhaust manifolds.

4. Remove the coolant hoses.

5. Remove the bracket for the cooling fan.

6. Remove the upper and lower timing belt covers. See

FIGURE 23.

7. Loosen the capscrews for the timing belt tensioner

and remove the spring. Remove the capscrews and the
timing belt tensioner. FIGURE 2. REMOVE THE CAMSHAFT GEAR

8. Use chalk to mark the direction of rotation of the tim-
ing belt. Remove the timing belt. See FIGURE 1.
9. Disconnect the wires at the distributor. Remove the
capscrew for the distributor mount and pull the distribu-
tor from the front housing.
11. Remove the nuts and capscrews for the front hous-
ing, then remove the housing. See FIGURE 19.
12. Remove the valve cover.
13. Loosen the capscrews for the rocker shaft supports
in steps. See FIGURE 3. Remove the rocker shaft as-
sembly and the camshaft.

1 5 9 8 4

2 6 10 7 3

FIGURE 3. SEQUENCE FOR REMOVAL OF THE

FIGURE 1. TIMING BELT ROCKER ASSEMBLY

14. Remove the capscrews for the cylinder head in steps.

10. See FIGURE 2. Remove the camshaft pulley. Pre-
vent rotation of the pulley and loosen the capscrew. Re-
move the capscrew and the pulley.
Remove the capscrews in the sequence shown in
FIGURE 4.
15. Lift the cylinder head from the block.

2
 Inspection And Repairs
1 5 9 8 4
CYLINDER HEAD
Check the bottom surface of the cylinder head for distor-
tion. Use a straight edge and a thickness gauge. Do the
measurements at the positions shown in FIGURE 6. The
maximum amount of distortion is 0.15 mm (0.0059 in).
When grinding the cylinder head, the maximum amount
of correction is 0.2 mm (0.008 in).

2 6 10 7 3

FIGURE 4. SEQUENCE FOR REMOVAL OF THE

CYLINDER HEAD

16. Use a valve spring compressor and remove the valve

retainers, springs and valves from the head. See
FIGURE 5.

FIGURE 6. CYLINDER HEAD INSPECTION

ROCKER SHAFT ASSEMBLY

FIGURE 5. REMOVE THE VALVES
WARNING
Cleaning
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic and
can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning sol-
vents, always follow the solvent manufacturer’s rec-
ommended safety procedures.
Clean all of the parts in solvent. Make sure that all oil
passages are clean. Make sure all machined surfaces are
smooth.
Disassemble the rocker shaft assembly. Put marks on the
rocker arms so that they can be installed on the same
shafts. Clean the oil passages in the rocker shafts and
rocker arms. Check the clearance between the rocker
arms and the rocker shafts. The maximum clearance is
0.10 mm (0.004 in). The correct dimension for the inside
diameter of a rocker arm is 16.000 to 16.027 mm
(0.6299 to 0.6311 in). The correct dimension for the out-
side diameter of a rocker shaft is 15.966 to 15.984 mm
(0.6286 to 0.6293 in). If the parts do not meet specifica-
tion, replace the rocker arm(s) or the rocker shaft(s).
CAMSHAFT
Check the camshaft for cracks or damage.
Check the movement of the camshaft in the cylinder
head. Use a dial indicator on the end of the camshaft as
shown in FIGURE 7. The maximum movement is 0.20
mm (0.008 in).

3
 Measure the camshaft journals at four points A–D as
shown in FIGURE 8. The minimum dimensions for the
journals are as follows:
Front and Rear Journals (Nos. 1 and 5) – 31.940 to
31.965 mm (1.2575 to 1.2585 in)
Center Journals (Nos. 2, 3 and 4) – 31.910 to 31.935
mm (1.2563 to 1.2573 in)
Front Oil Seal Surface – 33.961 to 34.000 mm
(1.3370 to 1.3386 in)
Fuel Pump Lobe – 37.1 mm (1.46 in)

FIGURE 7. CHECK THE CAMSHAFT
Measure the height of the camshaft lobes. See
FIGURE 8. The minimum height of the intake and ex-
haust lobes are 36.902 mm (1.4528 in).
Check the camshaft for being straight. Put the front and
rear journals in V blocks and rotate the camshaft one
complete turn. See FIGURE 9. The maximum amount
that the dial indicator can indicate is 0.03 mm (0.0012
in).

A
B FIGURE 9. CHECK THE CAMSHAFT
C
D Measure the clearance between the camshaft and the
1 2 bore in the cylinder head. Install the camshaft in the cyl-
inder head. Put a plastic gauge material between the
camshaft and the cap. Tighten the capscrews for the caps
to 18 to 27 N.m (13 to 20 lbf ft). See FIGURE 10. The
correct clearance for journals Nos. 1 and 5 is 0.035 to
0.085 mm (0.0014 to 0.0033 in). The correct clearance
3 4 5 for journals Nos. 2, 3 and 4 is 0.065 to 0.115 mm (0.0026
1. FRONT OIL SEAL
SURFACE to 0.0045 in). If any of the clearances are greater than
2. FRONT JOURNAL (NO. 1) 0.15 mm (0.0059 in), replace the cylinder head assem-
3. CENTER JOURNALS (NOS. 2, 3 AND 4)
4. REAR JOURNAL (NO, 5)
bly.
5. FUEL PUMP LOBE
Replace the camshaft if there is any damage or it does
FIGURE 8. CAMSHAFT INSPECTION not meet specifications.

4
 VALVE SEATS
1
Inspect the condition of the valve seats. If the valve seats
have cracks, the cylinder head must be replaced. If the
condition of the valve seats is good, check the contact
pattern of the valve and the valve seat. Use a valve seat
grinder to make sure the valve seats are with the specifi-
2 cations shown in FIGURE 12. Use a valve compound to
make sure the valves fit the seats.

EXHAUST INTAKE
2
3

1. PLASTIC GAUGE
2. SCALE 75°
1 75°
1
FIGURE 10. MEASURE THE CLEARANCE FOR 60° 60°
THE CAMSHAFT 15° 25°

VALVE GUIDES 30° 30°

1. VALVE SEAT WIDTH
Measure the clearance between the valve stems and the
2. EXHAUST VALVE SEAT
valve guides. Normal clearance is 0.025 to 0.060 mm 3. INTAKE VALVE SEAT
(0.001 to 0.002 in). Replace the valve or valve guide
when the clearance is more than 0.20 mm (0.008 in). FIGURE 12. VALVE SEAT SPECIFICATIONS

1. DIAMETER
3 2. THICKNESS,
2 VALVE HEAD
1

1. CYLINDER HEAD
2. RETAINING RING
3. VALVE GUIDE 1

FIGURE 11. VALVE GUIDE

If replacement is necessary, use a tool to remove the 2

valve guide(s). Remove the seal from the valve guide,
then remove the valve guide.

To install a valve guide, install the retaining ring on the
valve guide. Use the tool and install the valve guide until
the retaining ring contacts the cylinder head. See
FIGURE 11. The correct height of the valve guide
above the valve spring seat is 19.1 to 19.6 mm (0.75 to
0.77 in).
FIGURE 13. INSPECT THE VALVES
VALVES
1. See FIGURE 13. Inspect the stem of each valve for
wear. Use a micrometer to measure the outside diameter
of the stem. The minimum dimension for an intake valve

5
is 7.980 mm (0.3142 in). The minimum dimension for
an exhaust valve is 7.975 mm (0.3140 in). 10 6 2 3 7

2. Inspect the valves for cracks, burned faces and distor-

tion. Inspect the seat face of the valves for wear and
damage. Measure the thickness of the valve head. See
The minimum thickness for an intake valve is 0.5 mm
(0.020 in). The minimum thickness for an exhaust valve is 1.0
mm (0.040 in).

3. If the valves need grinding the correct surface angle is

30° for both intake and exhaust valves.
1 4 8
VALVE SPRINGS 9 5

Check the valve springs for damage. See FIGURE 14.

FIGURE 15. INSTALLATION OF THE
Measure the free length of the outer valve springs. The
CYLINDER HEAD
minimum length of an intake spring is 44.3 mm (1.74
in). The minimum length of an exhaust spring is 50.8
4. See FIGURE 16. Apply a gasket sealer to the areas
mm (2.00 in). Check the outer valve springs for being
shown by the arrows. Lubricate the camshaft with clean
square. See FIGURE 14. If the measurement is more
engine oil, then install the camshaft. Make sure the dow-
than 1.81 mm (0.071 in), replace the valve spring(s).
el pin is at the top of the camshaft.

MEASURE
HERE

1. DOWEL PIN
2. APPLY SEALANT 2
HERE

FIGURE 14. INSPECT THE VALVE SPRINGS

Cylinder Head, Installation

1. Clean the surface of the cylinder head and the surface

of the block.

2. Install a new cylinder head gasket to the block. Install
the cylinder head.
3. Install the capscrews and washers for the cylinder
head. Tighten the capscrews to 82 to 88 N.m (59 to 64 lbf
ft) as shown in FIGURE 15.
FIGURE 16. INSTALL THE CAMSHAFT
5. Assemble the rocker shaft assembly. See
FIGURE 17. Lubricate the rocker arms and shafts with
engine oil. Rocker arms Nos. 1 and 3 are the same and
Nos. 2 and 4 are the same. Put the capscrews in the rock-

6
er shaft supports, then install the assembly on the cylin-
der head. 1. FRONT HOUSING
2. GASKET
3. OIL SEAL
2
NO. 1 AND NO. 3 ARE THE SAME
3

NO. 1 NO. 2 NO. 3 NO. 4

FIGURE 19. FRONT HOUSING

NO. 2 AND NO. 4 ARE THE SAME
FIGURE 17. ASSEMBLE THE ROCKER SHAFT
6. Tighten the capscrews for the rocker shaft supports to
18 to 27 N.m (13 to 20 lbf ft) in the sequence shown in
FIGURE 18.
8. With the dowel pin at the top of the camshaft, install
the camshaft pulley. Check that the letter “A” on the
pulley is aligned with the timing mark on the front hous-
ing. See FIGURE 20.
1

10 6 2 3 7 1. TIMING
MARKS
2. CAMSHAFT
PULLEY

9 5 1 4 8

FIGURE 18. INSTALLATION OF THE ROCKER

SHAFT ASSEMBLY

7. If necessary, install the oil seal in the front housing.

See FIGURE 19. Install the front housing and a new
gasket on the cylinder head. Tighten the capscrews for FIGURE 20. INSTALL THE CAMSHAFT
the front housing to 19 to 26 N.m (14 to 19 lbf ft). PULLEY

7
9. Install the capscrew and washer for the camshaft
pulley. See FIGURE 20. Keep the pulley from turning
and tighten the capscrew to 48 to 66 N.m (35 to 48 lbf ft).
10. Align the timing marks for the crankshaft pulley. See
FIGURE 21. Install the crankshaft pulley, tapered ring
and the capscrew. Tighten the capscrew to 160 to 170
N.m (116 to 123 lbf ft).
1. CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
2. TIMING MARK 2
2 lbf ft). Install the upper timing belt cover and gasket.
1 1
FIGURE 21. INSTALL THE TIMING BELT
11. Install the timing belt tensioner and spring. Move the
tensioner fully toward the intake side of the engine and
temporarily tighten the lock bolt.
12. Clean any oil or grease from the pulleys. Install the
timing belt. Install the belt so that it goes in the same
direction as the mark made during removal. See
FIGURE 1.
1 4
3
1. TENSIONER 3. LOCK BOLT
2. SPRING 4. TENSION SIDE
FIGURE 22. INSTALL THE TIMING BELT
8
13. See FIGURE 22. Loosen the lock bolt and apply
spring tension on the belt. Rotate the crankshaft pulley
two complete turns clockwise and check the timing
marks. If the timing marks are correct, tighten the lock
bolt for the tensioner to 20 to 35 N.m (14 to 25 lbf ft).
Check the movement on the tension side of the timing
belt. When the tension is correct the belt will move 12 to
14 mm (0.47 to 0.55 in) with 10 kg (20 lb) of force.
14. See FIGURE 23. Install the lower timing belt cover
and gasket. Tighten the capscrews to 7 to 8 N.m (5 to 6
Tighten the capscrews to 8 to 12 N.m (6 to 9 lbf ft).
2
2
1. LOWER TIMING BELT COVER
2. UPPER TIMING BELT COVER
FIGURE 23. TIMING BELT COVERS
15. Install the distributor as described in the procedures
for the DISTRIBUTOR.
CRANKSHAFT AND MAIN BEARINGS
Removal
1. Remove the bracket for the cooling fan.
2. Remove the six capscrews and plate from the crank- Inspection And Repair
shaft pulley. Remove the six capscrews that hold the
crankshaft pulley to the timing pulley. CRANKSHAFT

3. Remove the capscrew from the timing pulley. Install
the special tool on the crankshaft to remove the timing
pulley. Rotate the tool until it touches the front of the
crankshaft. Hit the tool with a hammer to loosen the tim-
ing pulley. Remove the pulley, dowel pin and the tapered
ring. Remove the tool.
4. Remove the oil pan. Remove the oil strainer.
5. Remove the rear cover. Remove the front cover with
the oil pump.
6. Remove the caps for the connecting rods. Put a mark
of identification on each cap so that they will be installed
to the same location.
1. Visually inspect the crankshaft for wear, cracks or
other damage. Replace the crankshaft if it has cracks.
2. Use a micrometer to measure the diameter of the jour-
nals for the crankshaft. See FIGURE 25. Make the
measurement at several locations for each journal. If the
measurements are less than specifications, grind the
crankshaft and install undersize bearings. The correct
dimensions for the journals are as follows:
2
1 4

1. CENTER MAIN
BEARING

1
3
1. REAR OIL SEAL SURFACE
2. CONNECTING ROD JOURNALS
3. MAIN BEARING JOURNALS
4. FRONT OIL SEAL SURFACE

FIGURE 24. MEASURE THE CRANKSHAFT

CLEARANCE

7. Before removing the crankshaft, measure the clear-

ance between the crankshaft and the flange of the center
main bearing. See FIGURE 24. Push the crankshaft
fully forward before making the measurement. The
FIGURE 25. CRANKSHAFT INSPECTION
maximum clearance is 0.30 mm (0.012 in). If the clear-
ance is greater than the specification, replace the center Main Journal Diameter – 59.937 to 59.955 mm
main bearing or the crankshaft. (2.3597 to 2.3604 in)
8. Put marks for identification on the bearing caps. Connecting Rod Journals – 50.940 to 50.955 mm
Loosen the capscrews for the main bearing caps in steps, (2.0055 to 2.0061 in)
then remove the capscrews and the caps. Remove the Rear Oil Seal Surface – 89.946 to 90.000 mm
crankshaft. (3.5412 to 3.5433 in)

9
 Front Oil Seal Surface – 33.961 to 34.000 mm
(1.3370 to 1.3386 in)
3. Check the crankshaft for being straight. See
FIGURE 25. Put the front and rear journals in V blocks
and rotate the crankshaft one complete turn. The maxi-
mum amount that the dial indicator can indicate is 0.03
mm (0.0012 in).
4. Check the passages for oil in the crankshaft. Make
sure the passages are clean, with no restrictions.
MAIN BEARINGS
1. Visually inspect the main bearings for wear and dam-
age. Replace the bearings as necessary.
2. Measure the clearance between the main bearings and
the crankshaft. Install the crankshaft in the block. Put a
plastic gauge material on the journals and install the
main bearing caps. Tighten the capscrews for the main
bearing caps to 84 to 90 N.m (61 to 65 lbf ft). Remove
the bearing caps. See FIGURE 26. The correct clear-
ance is 0.031 to 0.049 mm (0.0012 to 0.0019 in). If the
clearance is greater than the specifications, replace the
main bearings.
2 1
1
1. PLASTIC GAUGE
2. SCALE
FIGURE 26. CHECK THE CLEARANCE FOR
THE MAIN BEARINGS
Installation
1. Clean the main bearings and the areas at the block for
the main bearings. Install the main bearings and lubri-
cate them with oil.
2. Install the crankshaft on the bearings. Install the main
bearings in the caps and lubricate them with oil. Use the
10
identification marks and install the main bearing caps.
Tighten the capscrews for the main bearing caps to 84 to
90 N.m (61 to 65 lbf ft).
3. Install the pistons and the connecting rods as de-
scribed in PISTONS AND THE CONNECTING
RODS, Installation.
4. Install the oil pump housing. Make sure the O–ring is
in the housing. Lubricate the oil seal with engine oil. Use
an adhesive sealant and install the housing to the block.
Make sure there is no sealant in the oil port. Tighten the
M10 capscrews to 38 to 53 N.m (27 to 38 lbf ft). Tighten
the M8 capscrews to 19 to 26 N.m (14 to 19 lbf ft).
5. Install the oil seal in the rear cover. Lubricate the sur-
faces of the oil seal with engine oil and use a press to
install the seal. Install the alignment pin in the cylinder
block.
6. Install the rear cover and the gasket. See FIGURE 27.
Make sure the dowel pin is installed. Tighten the cap-
screws to 8 to 12 N.m (6 to 9 lbf ft). Cut the part of the
gasket that extends past the bottom of the cylinder
block.
2
3
1. REAR COVER
2. OIL SEAL
3. CRANKSHAFT
FIGURE 27. REAR COVER
7. Install the oil strainer. Tighten the M6 capscrews to 8
to 12 N.m (6 to 9 lbf ft). Tighten the M8 capscrews to 16
to 23 N.m (12 to 17 lbf ft).
8.Install the oil pan and the gasket. Tighten the cap-
screws to 7 to 12 N.m (5 to 9 lbf ft).
PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS
Removal And Disassembly
1. Remove the cylinder head as described in CYL-
INDER HEAD, Removal.
2. Remove the oil pan and oil strainer.
3. Put a mark for identification on the top of each piston.
4. Clean the carbon from the top of each cylinder bore.
5. Remove the caps and bearings from each connecting
rod. Keep the caps and bearings with the correct piston
assemblies.
6. Push the connecting rod and piston from the block.
7. Carefully remove the piston rings from the pistons.
Use a tool to push the piston pin from the connecting
rod.
Cleaning
WARNING
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic and
can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning sol-
vents, always follow the solvent manufacturer’s rec-
ommended safety procedures.
Clean all of the parts in solvent. Make sure that all oil
passages and grooves are clean. Make sure all machined
surfaces are smooth.
Inspection And Repair
PISTONS
1. Inspect the pistons for wear and cracks. Replace a pis-
ton that has damage.
18 mm
(0.71 in)
FIGURE 28. MEASURING THE PISTON
2. Measure the outside diameter of the piston as shown
in FIGURE 28. The correct dimension is 85.944 to
85.964 mm (3.3836 to 3.3844 in). The maximum clear-
ance between the piston and the cylinder bore is 0.15
mm (0.0059 in).
PISTON RINGS
1. Measure the end clearance of each piston ring as
shown in FIGURE 29. Install the piston ring into the
cylinder bore where it will be used. Use a thickness
gauge to measure the amount of end clearance. The cor-
rect dimensions are as follows
Top Piston Ring – 0.20 to 0.35 mm
(0.008 to 0.014 in)
2nd Piston Ring – 0.15 to 0.30 mm
(0.006 to 0.012 in)
Oil Ring – 0.30 to 0.90 mm (0.012 to 0.035 in)
Maximum clearance is 1.0 mm (0.039 in)
2. Measure the clearance between the piston ring and the
groove in the piston as shown in FIGURE 29. The cor-
rect dimensions are as follows:
Top Piston Ring – 0.03 to 0.07 mm (0.0012 to
0.0028 in)
2nd Piston Ring – 0.03 to 0.07 mm (0.0012 to
0.0028 in)
Maximum clearance is 0.15 mm (0.0059 in)
1. PISTON RING END
CLEARANCE
2. PISTON RING
GROOVE
CLEARANCE
1
FIGURE 29. MEASURING THE PISTON RINGS
11
CONNECTING RODS AND BEARINGS Lubricate the piston pin and bore in the piston with en-
gine oil. Use a press to install the piston pin. The force to
1. Use an alignment tool to check the connecting rods
push the pin into the piston must be 500 to 1500 kg (1100
for being straight. The maximum amount of distortion
to 3300 lb). If the force is not correct, replace the piston
per 100 mm (4.0 in) is 0.04 mm (0.0016 in). If the
pin and/or connecting rod. Use the special tool to make
amount of distortion is greater than the specification,
sure the piston pin is installed to the correct depth. After
install a new rod or use a press to straighten the connect-
installation, check that the piston moves freely on the
ing rod.
piston pin.
2. Check the clearance between the rod bearings and the
2. Install the piston rings on the pistons. During installa-
journals of the crankshaft. Clean the rod bearings and
tion, the writing on each piston ring must be toward the
journals. Use a plastic gauge material between the jour-
top of the piston. Check that the rings rotate freely, then
nal and the bearing. Tighten the capscrews for the rod
put the ends of the rings in the positions shown in
caps to 51 to 56 N.m (37 to 41 lbf ft). Do not rotate the
FIGURE 32. Make sure the ends of the upper and lower
connecting rod. See FIGURE 30. The correct clearance
oil control rings are each 30° from the piston pin. Also
is 0.027 to 0.067 mm (0.0011 to 0.0026 in). If the clear-
make sure that the top and second rings are each 30°
ance is greater than the specifications, replace the bear-
from the piston pin. Lubricate the rings with engine oil.
ings.

1. “F” MARK
2. OIL PORT
FIGURE 30. CHECK THE CLEARANCE OF THE
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS

FIGURE 31. CONNECTING ROD AND PISTON

Assembly And Installation
PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS
1. Align the oil port on the large end of the connecting
rod with the “F” mark on the piston. See FIGURE 31.
3. Apply clean engine oil to the piston assembly. Install
the bearings for the connecting rods. Install the piston
into the correct cylinder making sure the “F” is toward
the front (timing belt end) of the engine.

12
 ° °
1
PISTON 2
PIN

1. EXPANDER RING
2. OIL RING (UPPER)
3. OIL RING (LOWER)
OIL CONTROL 4. TOP RING
RING 5. SECOND RING
° °
4

PISTON
PIN

FIGURE 34. INSPECT THE CYLINDER BLOCK

TOP AND SECOND CYLINDER BLOCK

RINGS

FIGURE 32. PISTON RINGS Repairs

1. After the engine block is cleaned, check its surface for

distortion. See FIGURE 34. If the amount of distortion
is greater than 0.15 mm (0.0059 in), grind the surface of
the engine block. The maximum amount of correction
that is permitted is 0.20 mm (0.008 in).
1. “F” MARK
2. Check the cylinder bores for wear and damage. Meas-
1 ure each bore. The correct dimension is 86.00 to 86.019
mm (3.3858 to 3.3866 in). The wear limit above this di-
mension is 0.15 mm (0.0059 in). Repair the cylinder
block or use bigger pistons as necessary.

OIL PUMP

Before removing the oil pump, check the oil pressure.

FIGURE 33. INSTALL THE PISTON
4. Apply clean engine oil to the bearing then install the
cap to the correct connecting rod. During installation of
the caps, make sure to align the identification marks that
were made during disassembly. Tighten the nuts for the
caps to 51 to 56 N.m (37 to 41 lbf ft).
Replace the sending unit with a gauge. The minimum oil
pressure at governed rpm is approximately 275 kPa (40
psi). If the pressure is less than the specification, the oil
pump or the engine bearings need repair.
Removal
1. Remove the bracket for the cooling fan.
2. Remove the upper and lower timing belt covers.

13
3. Loosen the capscrews for the timing belt tensioner 2. Remove the outer gear and the inner gear from the
and remove the spring. Remove the capscrews and the pump body.
timing belt tensioner.
3. Remove the snap ring to remove the plunger assembly
4. Use chalk to mark the direction of rotation of the tim- from the housing.
ing belt. Remove the timing belt.
5. Remove the six capscrews and plate from the crank- Cleaning
shaft pulley. Remove the six capscrews that hold the
crankshaft shaft pulley to the timing pulley. WARNING
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic and
6. Remove the capscrew from the timing pulley. Install can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning sol-
the special tool on the crankshaft to remove the timing vents, always follow the solvent manufacturer’s rec-
pulley. Rotate the tool until it touches the front of the ommended safety procedures.
crankshaft. Hit the tool with a hammer to loosen the tim-
ing pulley. Remove the pulley, dowel pin and the tapered Clean all of the parts in solvent. Make sure all machined
ring. Remove the tool. surfaces are smooth.
7. Remove the capscrews that hold the oil pan to the
block and remove the oil pan. Inspection
8. Remove the capscrews that hold the front cover 1. Check the front cover (pump housing) and the pump
(pump housing) to the block. Remove the front cover cover for wear or damage. Check the plunger spring for
and oil pump assembly. damage.
Disassembly (See FIGURE 35.) 2. See FIGURE 36. Measure the parts of the oil pump as
follows:
1. Remove the screws and the pump cover.
a. Measure the clearance between the gears and the
1. SCREW
crescent. The correct clearance is 0.20 to 0.32 mm
1
2. COVER 2 (0.008 to 0.013 in). If the clearance is more than
3. OUTER GEAR 0.35 mm (0.014 in), repair as necessary.
4. INNER GEAR
b. Measure the clearance between the crescent and
the teeth of the inner gear. The correct clearance is
0.267 to 0.380 mm (0.0105 to 0.0150 in). If the
6 clearance is more than 0.40 mm (0.0157 in), repair
3 as necessary.
4 c. Use a straight edge and measure the side clear-
5 ance of the gears. The correct clearance is 0.03 to
0.63 mm (0.0012 to 0.0248 in). If the clearance is
5. FRONT COVER more than 0.10 mm (0.004 in), repair as necessary.
7 8
(HOUSING)
6. OIL SEAL d. Measure the clearance between the body and the
7. PLUNGER outer gear. The correct clearance is 0.090 to 0.184
8. SNAP RING mm (0.0035 to 0.0072 in). If the clearance is more
FIGURE 35. OIL PUMP than 0.20 mm (0.008 in), repair as necessary.

14
 1. CLEARANCE BETWEEN CRESCENT AND INNER GEAR
2. CLEARANCE BETWEEN CRESCENT AND GEARS
3. SIDE CLEARANCE OF GEARS IN THE HOUSING
4. CLEARANCE BETWEEN HOUSING AND OUTER GEAR

2
3

FIGURE 36. MEASURE THE OIL PUMP

Assembly (See FIGURE 35.) Installation (See FIGURE 37.)

1. Install the oil seal in the oil pump housing. Make sure 1. Install the O–ring on the oil pump housing. Use grease
the front edge of the oil seal is even with the outer edge to hold the O–ring in position. Lubricate the oil seal with
of the housing. engine oil.

2. Use an adhesive sealant and install the oil pump hous-

2. Lubricate the gears with engine oil, then install them
in the housing.
3. Install the pump cover. Use a thread locking com-
pound on the screws for the pump cover, then install the
screws.
4. Install the plunger assembly and the snap ring.
1. O–RING 1
ing to the block. Make sure there is no sealant in the oil
port. Tighten the M10 capscrews to 38 to 53 N.m (27 to
38 lbf ft). Tighten the M8 capscrews to 19 to 26 N.m (14
to 19 lbf ft).
3. Install the suction tube assembly. Install the gasket
and the oil pan.
COOLING SYSTEM
Thermostat

REPLACEMENT (See FIGURE 38.)

1. Drain the cooling system to the level of the thermo-

stat.

2. Disconnect the hose and remove the thermostat hous-

ing. Remove the thermostat.

3. Test the operation of the thermostat. The thermostat

FIGURE 37. OIL PUMP must begin to open at 82 ± 1.5°C (180 ± 3°F). The ther-
mostat must be completely open at 95°C ( 203°F).

15
 ft). Tighten the M10 capscrews to 38 to 64 N.m (27 to 46
1. CYLINDER BLOCK lbf ft).
2. GASKET
3. THERMOSTAT 2. Install the pulley and fan on the hub. Tighten the cap-
4. HOUSING screws to 8 to 11 N.m (6 to 8 lbf ft).

1
4 6
4 5

2 3
1
7

2 3

FIGURE 38. THERMOSTAT

4. Install the thermostat and new gasket. Make sure the

print side of the gasket is toward thermostat. Install the
thermostat housing and tighten the capscrews to 12 to 18 1. FAN 5. SHAFT
2. PULLEY 6. SUPPORT
N.m (9 to 13 lbf ft).
3. HUB BRACKET
4. SNAP RING 7. BRACKET
5. Connect the hose and fill the cooling system. Start the
engine and check for leaks. FIGURE 39. FAN ASSEMBLY

Fan Assembly
REMOVAL
1. Loosen the alternator and remove the fan belt.
2. Remove the capscrews for the fan. Remove the fan
and pulley from the hub.
3. Remove the capscrews that hold the fan bracket to the
engine. Remove the fan bracket.
DISASSEMBLY AND REPAIR (See FIGURE 39.)
1. Use a press to remove the fan hub from the shaft. Re-
move the snap ring and push the bearing and shaft from
the bracket.
2. Use a press to install the shaft and bearing in the
bracket. Push the bearing in until it touches the bracket.
Install the snap ring. Install the hub on the shaft. When
installed, the shaft must extend 2.1 mm (0.083 in) past
the hub.
INSTALLATION (See FIGURE 39.)
1. Install the bracket assembly on the cylinder block.
Tighten the M8 capscrews to 32 to 47 N.m (23 to 34 lbf
3. Install the fan belt. Adjust the tension of the fan belt.
Check the movement of the fan belt between the fan and
the alternator. When the tension is correct a NEW belt
will move 8 to 10 mm (0.32 to 0.38 in) with 10 kg (20 lb)
of force. The tension for an OLD belt is correct when it
moves 10 to 12 mm (0.38 to 0.50 in).with 10 kg (20 lb)
of force. Tighten the alternator when the tension is cor-
rect.
Water Pump
NOTE: If either the shaft or impeller is damaged, the
complete water pump must be replaced.
REMOVAL
1. Drain the cooling system.
2. Loosen the alternator and remove the fan belt.
3. Remove the capscrews for the fan. Remove the fan
and pulley from the hub.
4. Remove the capscrews that hold the fan bracket to the
engine. Remove the fan bracket.
5. Remove the upper and lower timing belt covers. See
FIGURE 23. Loosen the capscrews for the timing belt

16
tensioner and remove the spring. Remove the capscrews
and the timing belt tensioner.
CAUTION
6. Use chalk to mark the direction of rotation of the tim-
ing belt. See FIGURE 1. Align the timing marks, then
remove the timing belt.
3. Use a press to install the pulley. Use a press to install
the impeller. Make sure the surface of the impeller is
even with the end of the shaft.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the water pump with a new gasket. Tighten the
capscrews to 19 to 26 N.m (14 to 19 lbf ft).

Do not rotate the camshaft gear or the crankshaft
gear while the timing belt is removed. If either of the
gears is moved, it will be necessary to align the timing
marks.
7. Disconnect the hose at the water pump. Remove the
capscrews for the water pump, then remove the water
pump from the cylinder block.
2. Install the timing belt and the covers as described in
the procedures for Cylinder Head, Installation.
3. Install the fan assembly as described in the procedures
for Fan Assembly, Installation.
4. Install the coolant hoses.
5. Fill the coolant system with coolant.

6. Start the engine and check the cooling system for

6
leaks.
4
WARNING
DO NOT remove the radiator cap from the radiator
when the engine is hot. When the radiator cap is re-
2
moved, the pressure is released from the system. If
5
the system is hot, the steam and boiling coolant can
1
cause burns. DO NOT remove the cover for the ra-
diator when the engine is running.

7. After the engine has been operated, stop the engine. If

3
the coolant is hot, give the engine time to cool. Check
3. WASHER the coolant level.
1. PULLEY 4. HOUSING
2. SHAFT AND BEARING 5. SEAL DISTRIBUTOR
ASSEMBLY 6. IMPELLER

FIGURE 40. WATER PUMP
DISASSEMBLY AND REPAIR (See FIGURE 40.)
1. Use a puller to remove the pulley from the shaft.
2. Use a press to remove the impeller from the shaft and
the bearing assembly from the housing. Remove the wa-
ter seal from the housing.
ASSEMBLY (See FIGURE 40.)
1. Install the water seal in the housing. Put anti–freeze
on the lip of the seal.
2. Use a press to install the shaft and bearing in the pump
body. Make sure the shaft turns smoothly.
NOTE: This section has only the removal and installa-
tion procedures for the distributor. The service proce-
dures for the ignition system are found in THE ELEC-
TRICAL SYSTEM.
Removal (See FIGURE 41.)
1. Rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at
TDC on the compression stroke. Make a note of the
position of the distributor rotor.
2..Disconnect the wires at the spark plugs.
2. Remove the capscrew from the flange of the distribu-
tor shaft housing.
3. Lift the distributor assembly from the engine.

17
Installation (See FIGURE 41.)
1. Rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at
TDC on the compression stroke. Put the rotor in the cor-
rect position.
2. Lubricate the O–ring and the gear on the distributor
with engine oil. Install the distributor, aligning the
marks on the distributor housing, distributor gear and
engine.
3. Connect the wires at the spark plugs.
FIGURE 41. INSTALLATION OF THE
DISTRIBUTOR
FLYWHEEL AND RING GEAR,
S/H2.00–3.20XM (S/H40–65XM)
Flywheel, Removal (See FIGURE 43.)
1. Remove the capscrews for the flywheel, then remove
the flywheel and the drive plate.
2. If necessary, remove the flywheel housing.
18
Ring Gear, Replacement
WARNING
Wear eye protection for this operation to prevent eye
injury from metal chips. You will be using a hammer
and chisel to break the ring gear.
Before the ring gear is removed, check the position of
the chamfer on the teeth.
1. See FIGURE 42. Use a hammer and chisel to break
the ring gear. Make sure that you do not damage the fly-
wheel.
FIGURE 42. RING GEAR REMOVAL
WARNING
2. The ring gear must be heated before it can be installed
on the flywheel. Make sure that the ring gear is not
heated to more than 200°C (390°F).
Hot parts. Wear protective clothing and gloves to
prevent burns.
3. Install the ring gear on the flywheel. Make sure that
the chamfer on the teeth is in the correct direction to-
ward the starter.
Flywheel, Installation (See FIGURE 43.)
1. If the flywheel housing was removed, install it on the
engine. Tighten the M14 capscrews to 114 to 136 N.m
(84 to 100 lbf ft). Tighten the M8 capscrews to 21 to 25
N.m (16 to 19 lbf ft).
2. Install the flywheel on the crankshaft. Install the drive
plate and support plate. Apply an adhesive sealant on the
threads of the capscrews. then install the capscrews for
the flywheel. Tighten the capscrews to 96 to 103 N.m
(71 to 76 lbf ft) as shown in the sequence in FIGURE 43.
 FLYWHEEL, S/H1.50–1.75XM, S/H2.00XMS
2 1 (S/H25–35XM, S/H40XMS)

3
Removal (See FIGURE 44.)

5 1. Remove the capscrews for the flywheel, then remove

the flywheel and the flange.

1 2. If necessary, remove the adapter plate.

6 3
Installation (See FIGURE 44.)
4
4 5
2 1. If the adapter plate for the torque converter housing
6 was removed, install it on the engine. Tighten the cap-
TIGHTENING screws to 43 to 51 N.m (32 to 38 lbf ft).
1. COVER PLATE SEQUENCE
2. FLYWHEEL HOUSING
2. Install the flange and flywheel on the crankshaft. Ap-
3. FLYWHEEL 5. SUPPORT PLATE
4. DRIVE PLATE 6. CAPSCREW ply a thread locking adhesive on the threads of the cap-
screws. then install the capscrews and lock washers.
FIGURE 43. FLYWHEEL ARRANGEMENT Tighten the capscrews to 96 to 103 N.m (71 to 76 lbf ft).

4
5

1 2

6
3

1. FLANGE
2. FLYWHEEL 5. ACCESS COVER 12812
3. DRIVE PLATE 6. TORQUE CONVERTER
4. TORQUE CONVERTER HOUSING

FIGURE 44. FLYWHEEL AND TORQUE CONVERTER

19
 CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUST THE VALVES (See FIGURE 45.) 2. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise one complete turn
(360 degrees). Now adjust the remaining valves.
1. Rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at
TDC on the compression stroke (intake and exhaust
valves closed). Now adjust the clearance of the intake 3. If the valves are adjusted when the engine is cold,
valves for the No. 1 and No. 2 cylinders and the exhaust check the adjustments again after the engine is warm.
valves for the No. 1 and No. 3 cylinders. The correct
clearance for all the valves when the engine is hot is 0.3
mm (0.012 in). To adjust the clearance, loosen the lock CHECK THE COMPRESSION PRESSURE
nut and turn the adjustment screw. Tighten the lock nut (See FIGURE 46.)
to 16 to 21 N.m (12 to 15 lbf ft).
NOTE: During adjustment of the valves, check the po-
sition of the balls that are in the ends of the rocker arms. 1. Remove the spark plugs from the cylinder head. Dis-
The flat surface of the ball must be in contact with the connect the high tension wire at the ignition coil.
stem of the valve.
2. Install a compression gauge in the number 1 cylinder.
INTAKE VALVES Make sure the gauge has a minimum range of 1725 kPa
(250 psi).
NO. 1 NO. 2 NO. 3 NO. 4

3. Use the starter to crank the engine at least six (6) revo-
lutions. Check the pressure reading and release the pres-
sure. Repeat the test again and make a note of the highest
pressure. Do this test for each cylinder.

NO. 1 NO. 2 NO. 3 NO. 4

4. The standard pressure reading is 1130 kPa (164 psi).
EXHAUST VALVES The minimum reading is 793 kPa (115 psi).
2

3 5. If the readings are lower than the minimum reading,

there is a problem with the valves, piston rings or cylin-
der head gasket. Do the following tests to find the prob-
lem:

0.30 mm a. Add approximately 30 ml (1.0 oz) of engine oil

4 0.012 in) to each cylinder at the spark plug hole.

b. Crank the engine approximately ten revolutions

1. CAMSHAFT
2. ROCKER ARM to distribute the oil.
1 3. BALL
4. VALVE STEM
c. Install the compression gauge and do the same
FIGURE 45. ADJUST THE VALVES tests as described in step 3.

20
 d. If the compression pressure increases to a nor-
1. ADAPTER
mal reading, the low pressure was caused by worn
or damaged piston rings. The cylinder bore can also
be damaged. 1

e. If the compression reading does not increase, the

low pressure was caused by worn valves, valve
seats or valve guides.
f. If the low pressure readings are in two cylinders
next to each other, the cylinder head can be leaking.

FIGURE 46. CHECK THE COMPRESSION

PRESSURE
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
ITEM SPECIFICATION
Engine Type In–Line, Four Cylinders
Bore x Stroke 86 mm (3.39 in) x 86 mm (3.39 in)
Displacement 1998 cm3 (121.9 in3)
Compression Ratio 8.6 : 1
Compression Pressure 1131 kPa (164 psi) @ 270 rpm
Oil Pressure @ 2400 rpm 226 to 362 kPa (33 to 52 psi)
Thermostat
Starts to Open 82 ± 1.5°C (180 ± 35°F)
Fully Open 95 ± 1.5°C (203 ± 35°F)
Cylinder Head
Height 91.25–92.05 mm (3.620–3.624 in)
Distortion Limit 0.15 mm (0.006 in)
Grinding Limit 0.20 mm (0.008 in)
Valve Mechanism
Inside Dia. of Valve Guide 8.07–8.09 mm (0.3177–0.3185 in)
Clearance in Guide (Exhaust) 0.025–0.060 mm (0.001–0.0024 in)
Clearance in Guide (Intake) 0.025–0.060 mm (0.001–0.0024 in)
Service Limit (Intake & Exhaust) 0.20 mm (0.008 in)
Diameter of Valve Stem (Intake) 8.03–8.045 mm (0.3161–0.3167 in)
Service Limit 7.980 mm (0.3142 in)
Dia. of Valve Stem (Exhaust) 8.025 – 8.045 mm (0.3159– 0.3167 in)
Service Limit 7.975 mm (0.3140 in)
Valve Head Thickness (Intake) 0.5 mm (0.020 in)
Valve Head Thickness (Exhaust) 1.0 mm (0.040 in)
Valve Face Angle (Intake and Exhaust) 30°

21
 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
ITEM SPECIFICATION
Valve Mechanism
Spring Free Length (Outer) 52.4 mm (2.063 in)
Service Limit 50.8 mm (2.00 in)
Spring Free Length (Inner) 45.7 mm (1.799 in)
Service Limit 44.3 mm (1.744 in)
Rocker Arm Shaft Diameter 15.966–15.984 mm (0.6286– 0.6293 in)
Rocker Arm Bore Diameter 16.000 –16.027 mm (0.6299 to 0.6311 in)
Clearance Between Rocker Arm and Shaft 0.016–0.061 mm (0.0006–0.0024 in)
Camshaft
Cam Lobes – Production Limit 37.102 mm (1.4607 in)
Cam Lobes – Service Limit 36.902 mm (1.4528 in)
Bearing Journals, 1 and 5 31.940–31.965 mm (1.2575 to 1.2585 in)
Bearing Journals, 2, 3 and 4 31.910–31.935 mm (1.2563 to 1.2573 in)
Bearing Journal Wear Limit 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
Clearance Between Journals and Bore, 1 and 5 0.035–0.085 mm (0.0014–0.0033 in)
Clearance Between Journals and Bore, 2, 3 and 4 0.065–0.115 mm (0.0026–0.0045 in)
End Clearance 0.08–0.16 mm (0.003–0.006 in)
End Clearance (Service Limit) 0.20 mm (0.008 in)
Crankshaft
Distortion less than 0.03 mm (0.0012 in)
Main Bearing Journal Diameter 59.937–59.955 mm (2.3597–2.3604 in)
Service Limit 0.05 mm (0.002in)
Grinding Limit 0.75 mm (0.030 in)
Clearance Between Journals and Main Bearings 0.031–0.049 mm (0.0012–0.0019 in)
Service Limit 0.08 mm (0.003 in)
Connecting Rod Journal Diameter 50.940–50.955 mm (2.0055–2.0061 in)
Service Limit 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
Grinding Limit 0.75 mm (0.030 in)
Thrust Bearing Clearance 0.08–0.18 mm (0.003–0.007 in)
Service Limit 0.30 mm (0.012 in)
Connecting Rods
Small End Bore 21.943–21.961 mm (0.8639–0.8646 in)
Clearance Between Piston Pin and Bore 0.015–0.040 mm (0.0006–0.0016 in)
Clearance Between Crankshaft Journals
and Rod Bearings 0.027–0.067 mm (0.0011–0.0026 in)
Service Limit 0.10 mm (0.004 in)
Cylinder Block
Distortion at Top Surface 0.15 mm (0.0059 in)
Bore Diameter 86.00– 86.019 mm (3.3858–3.3866 in)
Wear Limit 0.15 mm (0.0059 in)

22
 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
ITEM SPECIFICATION
Pistons
Diameter 85.944–85.964 mm (3.3836–3.3844 in)
Clearance Between Piston and Bore 0.036–0.075 mm (0.0014–0.0030 in)
Service Limit 0.15 mm (0.0059 in)
Piston Pin Diameter 21.974–21.980 mm (0.8651– 0.8654 in)
Groove Width for Piston Rings Nos. 1 and 2 1.520–1.540 mm (0.0598–0.0606 in)
Groove Width for Oil Ring 4.020–4.040 mm (0.1583–0.1591 in)
Piston Ring Clearance in Groove, Nos. 1 and 2 0.03–0.07 mm (0.0012–0.0028 in)
Service Limit 0.15 mm (0.0059 in)
Piston Ring End Clearance
Top Ring 0.20–0.35 mm (0.008–0.014 in)
Second Ring 0.15–0.30 mm (0.006–0.012 in)
Oil Control Ring 0.30–0.90 mm (0.012–0.035 in)
Service Limit (All Rings) 1.0 mm (0.039 in)
Oil Pump
Clearance Between Inner Gear and Crescent 0.267–0.380 mm (0.0105–0.0150 in)
Service Limit 0.40 mm (0.0157 in)
Clearance Between Crescent and Outer Gear 0.20–0.32 mm (0.008–0.013 in)
Service Limit 0.35 mm (0.014 in)
Clearance Between Outer Gear and Housing 0.090–0.184 mm (0.0035–0.0072 in)
Service Limit 0.20 mm (0.008 in)
Side Clearance Between Gears and Housing 0.03–0.063 mm (0.0012–0.0025 in)
Service Limit 0.10 mm (0.004 in)

23
 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
ITEM SPECIFICATION
Flywheel Capscrews 96 to 103 N.m (71 to 76 lbf ft)
Flywheel Housing,
H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM)
M10 Capscrews 41 to 49 N.m (30 to 36 lbf ft)
M14 Capscrews 114 to 136 N.m (84 to 101 lbf ft)
Fuel Pump 16 to 22 N.m (12 to 16 lbf ft)
Intake Manifold 19 to 31 N.m (14 to 22 lbf ft)
Main Bearing Cap 84 to 90 N.m (61 to 65 lbf ft)
Oil Pan 7 to 12 N.m (5 to 9 lbf ft)
Oil Pump
M8 Capscrews 19 to 26 N.m (14 to 19 lbf ft)
M10 Capscrews 38 to 53 N.m (27 to 38 lbf ft)
Rocker Cover 30 to 40 N.m (25 to 35 lbf ft)
Rocker Shaft Assembly 18 to 27 N.m (13 to 20 lbf ft)
Spark Plugs 15 to 23 N.m (11 to 17 lbf ft)
Starter 66 to 79 N.m (49 to 58 lbf ft)
Thermostat Cover 12 to 18 N.m (9 to 13 lbf ft)
Timing Belt Cover
Upper Capscrews 8 to 12 N.m (6 to 9 lbf ft)
Lower Capscrews 7 to 8 N.m (5 to 6 lbf ft)
Timing Belt Tension Lock Bolt 20 to 35 N.m (14 to 25 lbf ft)
Torque Converter Housing Adapter
H1.50–1.75XM, H2.00XMS (S/H25–35XM, S/H40XMS)
M8 Capscrews 21 to 25 N.m (16 to 18 lbf ft)
M14 Capscrews 118 to 142 N.m (87 to 105 lbf ft)
Torque Converter Housing
H1.50–1.75XM, H2.00XMS (S/H25–35XM, S/H40XMS)
M10 Capscrews 41 N.m (30 lbf ft)
M12 Capscrews 71 N.m (52 lbf ft)
Water Pump 19 to 26 N.m (14 to 19 lbf ft)

24

PROBLEM
The engine will not start.
The engine does not run smoothly.
The engine does not have enough
power.
TROUBLESHOOTING
POSSIBLE CAUSE
The fuel tank is empty.
The battery is not fully charged.
The connections at the battery are
loose or they have corrosion.
The starter system has a problem.
There are damaged parts in the en-
gine.
The valves are worn or damaged.
The piston rings are worn or have
damage.
The fuel system has a problem.
Ignition timing is not correct.
Fuel line has a restriction.
Fuel filter has a restriction.
Ignition system does not operate
correctly.
The valve mechanism does not op-
erate correctly.
The cylinder head has cracks.
The head gasket has a leak.
There is a leak in the intake sys-
tem.
Engine is too hot.
Fuel lines or fuel filter has a restric-
tion.
The ignition timing is not correct.
The fuel is the wrong type.
The air filter is dirty.
The ignition timing is not correct.
The valve mechanism does not
work correctly.
The piston assemblies are worn or
damaged.
The exhaust system has restric-
tions.
Fuel lines or fuel filter has a restric-
tion.
Engine is too hot or too cold.
Cylinder head gasket leaks.
PROCEDURE OR ACTION
Fill fuel tank.
Charge battery.
Check and tighten battery connec-
tions.
Check electrical circuit for starter.
Repair engine.
Install new valves.
Install new piston rings.
Check and repair fuel system.
Adjust timing.
Clean or use new fuel lines.
Install a new fuel filter.
Check and repair ignition system.
Check and repair valve mechanism.
Install a new cylinder head.
Install a new gasket.
Check and repair intake system.
Check cooling system.
Clean or use new fuel lines.
Adjust timing.
Fill tank with correct fuel.
Install a new air filter.
Adjust timing.
Check and repair valve mechanism.
Install new pistons.
Clean parts or install new muffler or
pipes.
Clean or use new fuel lines and filter.
Check cooling system.
Install a new gasket.
25

PROBLEM
There is noise inside the engine.
The engine gets too hot.
TROUBLESHOOTING
POSSIBLE CAUSE
The main bearings are worn or
damaged.
Engine is too hot.
Valves are not adjusted correctly.
The bearings for the connecting
rods are worn or damaged.
The pistons are worn or damaged.
Valve spring is broken.
There is not enough oil in the en-
gine.
The flywheel is loose.
A connecting rod is bent.
There is a leak in the exhaust sys-
tem.
The valve mechanism does not op-
erate correctly.
Spark plugs are dirty.
There is not enough coolant in the
cooling system.
The air filter has a restriction.
The water pump has damage.
The radiator is dirty.
The cooling system has restric-
tions.
The belt for the water pump is worn
or not adjusted correctly.
The thermostat has damage.
The exhaust system has restric-
tions.
Ignition timing is not correct.
Cylinder head gasket leaks.
Engine compression is not correct.
PROCEDURE OR ACTION
Install new main bearings.
Check and repair cooling system.
Adjust valves.
Install new bearings.
Install new pistons.
Install new valve springs.
Fill engine with correct oil.
Tighten capscrews for flywheel.
Repair engine.
Repair exhaust system.
Check and repair valve mechanism.
Install new spark plugs.
Fill cooling system.
Install a new air filter.
Install a new water pump.
Clean or repair the radiator.
Check radiator and hoses.
Check and adjust the belt.
Install a new thermostat.
Check and repair exhaust system.
Adjust timing.
Install a new head gasket.
Check and repair engine.

26
 INTRODUCTION
GENERAL
This section has the description and the repair instruc-
tions for the engine. Disassembly, cleaning, assembly,
specifications and troubleshooting are included.
DANGER
Some gaskets used in this engine can contain
dangerous fibers. Breathing dust from these fibers is
a cancer or lung disease hazard. Do not create dust!
Use vacuum equipment for asbestos or follow the
cleaning procedure described below.
• Make sure the gasket material is wet with
water or oil to prevent particles in the air.
• Use a hand scraper to remove old gasket mate-
rial. Do not use a power tool or compressed air.
• Discard all gasket material in a closed con-
tainer while it is still wet.
Put an “DANGEROUS FIBERS” warning label on
the container. Discard dangerous fiber material
safely.
CAUTION
Disconnect the battery cables before doing any
disassembly and repair of the engine or parts of the
electrical system.
The diodes and resistors in the electrical system can
be damaged if the following cautions are not
followed:
• Do not disconnect the battery when the engine
is running. The voltage surge can damage the
diodes and resistors.
• Do not disconnect an electric wire before the
engine is stopped and the switches are “OFF”.
• Do not cause a short circuit by connection of
the electric wires to the wrong terminals.
Make sure a correct identification is made of
the wire before it is connected.
• Make sure a battery is the correct voltage and
polarity before it is connected.
• Do not check for current flow by making a
spark because the electronic components can
be damaged.
DESCRIPTION
The GM 2.2L engine described in this section is an in–
line engine with four cylinders. These engines can have
either a gasoline or a LPG fuel system.
A camshaft in the cylinder block operates the overhead
valves with push rods and hydraulic lifters. A sprocket
on the crankshaft drives a chain and the camshaft
sprocket. The cam lobes are hardened and have a taper
with the high side toward the rear of the engine. The
valve lifters have a rounded surface where they contact
the cam lobes. This combination of surfaces causes the
valve lifters to rotate during engine operation.
Each rocker arm rotates on a pivot ball stud fastened to
the cylinder head. The valve guides and valve seats are
part of the cylinder head.
The crankshaft has five main bearings. The fourth main
bearing is the thrust bearing.
The pistons are aluminum alloy and have three piston
rings. There are two compression rings and an oil con-
trol ring assembly.
When the engine has a gasoline fuel system, it has elec-
tronic fuel injection with an electronic engine control
system. When the engine has a LPG fuel system, it uses
an LPG carburetor and the Microprocessor Spark Tim-
ing System (MSTS).
The specifications and tolerance details for engine re-
pair are shown in ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS at the
end of this section.
1
 2 1
14
4 13

12

9
3
6

10

7 11

1. THROTTLE BODY INJECTOR 6. STARTER 11. CRANKSHAFT PULLEY

2. ROCKER ARM COVER 7. OIL PAN 12. WATER PUMP PULLEY
3. WATER PUMP 8. ALTERNATOR 13. IDLER PULLEY
4. OIL FILL TUBE 9. OIL FILTER 14. FAN PULLEY
5. EXHAUST MANIFOLD 10. BELT TENSIONER

FIGURE 1. GM 2.2L ENGINE

REPAIRS

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE 2. To remove the belt tensioner, remove the three cap-
ENGINE screws that mount it to the engine.

NOTE: The removal and installation procedures for the
engine and transmission are not included in this section.
See the section, THE FRAME, 100 SRM 505 for these
procedures.
DRIVE BELT AND BELT TENSIONER
Removal (See FIGURE 2.)
1. The belt tensioner tightens the belt by spring tension.
It is not necessary to remove the tensioner to remove
the drive belt. There is a square hole on the fan side of
the tensioner. Install a ratchet wrench or other tool and
apply a force to move the belt tensioner away from the
belt. Remove the drive belt.
Inspection
Check the drive belt for wear and damage. Small cracks
that run across the belt are acceptable. A belt with cracks
that run the length of the belt or a belt with missing
pieces is not acceptable.
When the drive belt is installed, check the tension by us-
ing the marks on the tensioner. The belt is installed cor-
rectly when the tensioner is in a position between the
“new installed” position and the “belt worn out” posi-
tion. Replace the drive belt when the tensioner is at the
belt worn out” position when making an adjustment.
Installation
1. Install the drive belt on the pulleys. See FIGURE 1.

2
2. To install the belt tensioner, install and tighten the c. Disconnect the wires from the relays and sensors
three capscrews to 36 to 50 N.m (27 to 37 lbf ft). at the bracket on the valve cover. Remove the
bracket from the cylinder head and move to one
side. Disconnect any other wires on top of the
1. DRIVE BELT valve cover.
TENSIONER
2. CAPSCREW
1

2
2

7
3
FIGURE 2. DRIVE BELT TENSIONER
4
CYLINDER HEAD AND VALVE
5 8
MECHANISM
6
Cylinder Head, Removal (See FIGURE 3.)

WARNING
Before disconnecting the gasoline fuel lines, do the
following:
• Disconnect the negative battery cable.
1. VALVE COVER 5. ROCKER ARM
• Loosen the fuel supply line and catch any fuel in a 2. GASKET 6. PUSH ROD
rag. Put the rag in an approved container when com- 3. NUT 7. ROCKER STUD
plete. 4. BALL 8. CYLINDER HEAD
FIGURE 3. ROCKER ARMS AND
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery.
VALVE COVER
2. Drain the cooling system. Remove the fan and spacer
d. When the ECM is installed under the intake man-
from the pulley.
ifold, disconnect the wires at the ECM.
3. Disconnect the air cleaner. Remove the top radiator 5. Do the following for engines with a LPG fuel system:
hose.

4. Do the following for engines with a gasoline fuel sys- WARNING

tem:
a. Disconnect the electrical connections at the
throttle body injector (TBI), CTS sensor and the
IAC valve. Disconnect the throttle linkage at the
TBI. Disconnect the fuel lines.
b. Disconnect the hoses at the valve cover and TBI.
LPG is flammable. Make sure there are no sparks or
open flames in the area when the fuel lines are
drained.
a. Close the fuel valve on the tank. Slowly loosen
the hose at the filter. Let the fuel drain from the
fitting. Disconnect the fuel inlet lines at the va-
porizer.

3
 b. Disconnect the vacuum lines at the carburetor
and governor. Disconnect the coolant line at the 6
thermostat housing. 1

c. Disconnect the wires at the solenoid valve and the 7

shut–off valve.
2
d. Remove the bracket from the cylinder head. Dis- 4
connect any other wires on top of the valve cover.
5
3
6. Disconnect the spark plug wires.

7. Remove the rocker arm cover.

NOTE: Keep the rocker arm assemblies, push rods and

the lifters in order so that they will be installed in the
same position.
8
8. Remove the rocker arms and the push rods. Use a flex-
ible magnet to remove the lifters.
9
9. Remove the intake manifold.

10. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold. 4. OIL SEAL
5. SPRING SEAT
Remove the exhaust manifold. 6. ROCKER STUD
1. RETAINERS 7. GUIDE
11. Disconnect the wires at the alternator. Remove the 2. SPRING CAP 8. EXHAUST VALVE
alternator. Remove the thermostat housing and pulley 3. VALVE SPRING 9. INTAKE VALVE
bracket from the cylinder head. FIGURE 4. VALVE PARTS

12. Loosen the capscrews for the cylinder head in two or
three steps. Do not completely loosen the capscrews
during the first sequence. Remove the capscrews, cylin-
der head and the gasket.
13. Use a flexible magnet to remove the lifters from the
engine block.
2. Remove the valves from the cylinder head and put
them in a rack so that the valves can be installed again in
their same positions in the cylinder head.
Cleaning And Inspection
1. Clean the carbon from the combustion chambers and
the valve ports.

Cylinder Head, Disassembly
1. Use a compressor tool to compress the valve springs
and remove the retainers. Release the compressor tool
and remove the spring caps and valve springs. See
FIGURE 4. Remove the oil seals and spring seats.
2. Clean the valve guides. Use a tool as shown in the ex-
ample in FIGURE 5.
3. Clean the push rods and rocker arms.
4. Clean the surfaces of the cylinder head where the gas-
kets fit.

4
5. Inspect the rocker arm studs. Studs that have damaged
threads must be replaced. If the threads in the head can-
not be repaired, the cylinder head must be replaced.
FIGURE 5. CLEAN THE VALVE GUIDES
6. Inspect the cylinder head for cracks in the exhaust
ports, combustion chambers, and external surfaces.
7. Inspect the valves for burned or damaged areas in the
seat surfaces. Inspect for cracks and damaged or worn
valve stems.
1. DIAMETER
2. THICKNESS,
VALVE HEAD
1 THE VALVE SPRINGS NEED A MINIMUM
2 FIGURE 7. VALVE SPRING SPECIFICATIONS
FIGURE 6. MEASURE THE VALVE
8. Check the clearance of each valve stem in its valve
guide. See FIGURE 6. Measure the diameter of the
valve stem and the inside diameter of the valve guide.
The maximum clearance for the intake valves is 0.028 to
0.066 mm (0.0011 to 0.0026 in). The maximum clear-
ance for the exhaust valves is 0.035 to 0.081 mm
(0.0014 to 0.0031 in). Measure the thickness of the
valve head. The minimum thickness is 0.8 mm (0.031
in).
9. If the clearance between the valve stem and its valve
guide is greater than the specification, a valve with an
oversize stem must be installed. Use a reamer to make
the bore in the valve guide the correct diameter for the
next oversize valve.
NOTE: When oversize valves are used, oversize valve
stem seals must also be installed.
10. Measure the length of the valve springs. The correct
length is 52.3 mm (2.06 in). Replace the valve spring if it
is not within 1.6 mm (0.063 in) of specifications.
A
B
C
9715
A. VARIATION FROM VERTICAL:
– less than 1.6 mm (0.063 in)
B. FREE LENGTH: – 52.3 mm (2.06 in)
C. INSTALLATION HEIGHT:
FORCE OF 446 to 488 N (100 to 110 lbf) TO
COMPRESS THEM TO A HEIGHT OF 40.9 mm
(1.61 in)
Valves And Valve Seats
The condition and match of the valves to their valve
seats is important so that the engine will operate correct-
5
ly. Before any work is done on the valve seats, make sure of the hydraulic valve lifter is worn, also inspect the bore
the clearance of the valve stems in their valve guides is in the cylinder block. If the bottom of the hydraulic
within specifications. valve lifter is worn or damaged, inspect the camshaft
lobe for wear and damage. The bottom of the lifter must
A correction for minimum wear and damage to the valve
be convex for correct rotation during engine operation.
and seat can be done by a process called “lapping”.
When the valve seats are “lapped”, keep the valve seats Cylinder Head, Assembly
within the specifications. Make sure all of the lapping
1. Install the valves in their correct ports. Install the
compound is removed from the valve and valve seat
spring seat, oil seal, valve spring and spring cap on each
when the process is completed.
valve. See FIGURE 4.
Damaged valve seats can be repaired with a cutter tool.
2. Use a valve spring compressor to compress the valve
If the valve seat can not be repaired so that the valve
spring. Install the retainers for the valve spring assem-
depth is within specifications, the cylinder head must be
bly. Make sure the retainers fit correctly in the upper
replaced. The specifications for the valve seats are
groove of the valve stem. Release the spring compressor
shown in FIGURE 8.
tool.
Cylinder Head, Installation
1. VALVE SEAT
2. MINIMUM THICKNESS 1. Clean the surface of the cylinder head and the top of
OF VALVE HEAD IS the cylinder block. The surfaces for the gaskets must be
0.80 mm (0.031 in) clean. The threads for the capscrews must be clean so
46°
45° that the correct torque is applied during installation.
2. Install a new gasket for the cylinder head over the
dowel pins on the cylinder block. Do not use a sealant on
1 the gasket.
2
2
FIGURE 8. VALVE AND SEAT SPECIFICATIONS

Hydraulic Valve Lifters, Replacement 1

The hydraulic valve lifters normally do not need service
unless they are dirty or damaged. The hydraulic valve
lifters must be clean to operate correctly. If the lifters 3
make noise or do not operate correctly, replace them.
The lifters can be removed with a flexible magnet after
the push rods are removed.
4
Hydraulic Valve Lifters,
Cleaning And Inspection
5

WARNING
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic, and
can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning sol-
vents, always follow the solvent manufacturer’s rec-
ommended safety precautions.
3. CYLINDER HEAD
Clean all parts in a cleaning solvent and inspect them 1. CAPSCREW 4. GASKET
2. STUD 5. CYLINDER BLOCK
carefully. If any parts are damaged or worn, the com-
plete hydraulic valve lifter must be replaced. If the body FIGURE 9. THE CYLINDER HEAD

6
3. If the hydraulic valve lifters were removed, install
them in their positions in the cylinder block.
4. Carefully install the cylinder head to the cylinder
block. Install the capscrews for the cylinder head as
shown in FIGURE 9. Tighten the short capscrews to 58
N.m (43 lbf ft). Tighten the long capscrews and the nut
on stud (10) to 63 N.m (46 lbf ft). Tighten all of the cap-
screws and the nut on stud (10) to an additional angle of
90° in the sequence shown in FIGURE 10.
8 4 1 5 9 2
7 3 2 6 10
2 3
1. LONG CAPSCREWS
2. SHORT CAPSCREWS
3. STUD
FIGURE 10. TIGHTENING SEQUENCE FOR
THE CYLINDER HEAD
5. Install the push rods in their positions in the engine.
Make sure each push rod fits in its socket in its hydraulic
valve lifter.
6. Lubricate the rocker arms and rocker arm balls with
engine oil during installation. Install the rocker arms,
rocker arm balls, and rocker arm nuts. Tighten the rock-
er arm nuts to 30 N.m (22 lbf ft).
7. Install the rocker arm cover. Use a new gasket be-
tween the cylinder head and the rocker arm cover. Install
the capscrews and tighten them to 10 N.m (89 lbf in).
Connect the hoses at the rocker arm cover.
8. Use a new gasket and install the intake manifold.
Tighten the nuts to 25 N.m (18 lbf ft) as shown in
FIGURE 11.
9. Use a new gasket and install the exhaust manifold.
Tighten the nuts for the manifold to 13 N.m (115 lbf in).
Install the exhaust seal and connect the exhaust pipe at
the exhaust manifold. Install the springs, capscrews and
washers.
10. Install the bracket for the sensors and relays on the
cylinder head.
7 3
4 8
1 5
10 6 9
FIGURE 11. TIGHTENING SEQUENCE
FOR INTAKE MANIFOLD
11. Use a new gasket and install the thermostat housing
and bracket for the pulleys.
12. Do the following for engines with a gasoline fuel
system:
a. Install a new gasket and the TBI on the intake
manifold. On early models, install the ECM on
the intake manifold.
b. Connect the spark plug wires. Connect the wires
at the sensors, relays, sending units, ECM and the
TBI. Connect the throttle linkage at the TBI.
13. Do the following for engines with a LPG fuel sys-
tem:
a. Install a new gasket and the carburetor on the in-
take manifold.
b. Connect the vacuum lines at the carburetor and
governor. Connect the fuel line at the shut–off
valve.
c. Connect the wires at the solenoid valve and the
shut–off valve. Connect the spark plug wires.
Connect the wires at the sensors, relays, sending
units.
14. Install the alternator. Tighten the top capscrew to 36
to 50 N.m (27 to 37 lbf ft). Tighten the bottom and rear
capscrews to 27 to 34 N.m (20 to 25 lbf ft). Connect the
wires at the alternator.
15. Install the top radiator hose. Install the drive belt on
the pulleys as shown in See FIGURE 1.
7
16. Install the spacer and fan on the hub. Tighten the cap-
screws for the fan to 26 N.m (19 lbf ft). 1. COVER
2. OIL SEAL
3. CRANKSHAFT
17. Install the air cleaner and component parts.

18. Fill the cooling system with the correct coolant. See 1
the section PERIODIC MAINTENANCE, 8000
SRM 493.

19. Connect the battery cables at the battery.

TIMING COVER
3
Removal (See FIGURE 13.) 2

1. Remove the drive belt tensioner and the drive belt.

2. Remove the oil pan.
3. Remove the capscrews that hold the crankshaft pulley
to the hub and remove the pulley. Remove the capscrew
for the hub, then remove the hub from the crankshaft.
Install a puller in the hub and turn the screw to remove
the hub. See FIGURE 12.
FIGURE 13. TIMING COVER
Installation (See FIGURE 13.)
1. Make sure the gasket surfaces on the cylinder block,
timing cover, and oil pan are clean.
2. Install a new oil seal. Carefully press the oil seal into
the timing cover. Make sure the lip of the oil seal is to-
ward the engine.

1. CAPSCREW 3. Install a new gasket between the timing cover and cyl-
2. PULLEY inder block. Apply a thin coat of sealant to both sides of
3. HUB the gasket. Apply a silicone gasket sealer to the surface
4. KEY
of the timing cover that touches the oil pan.
4
4. Lubricate the lip of the oil seal with engine oil. Install
2 the timing cover over the dowel pins. Install the cap-
1 screws that hold the cover to the block and the oil pan.

5. See FIGURE 12. Apply a silicone sealer to the key-

way in the crankshaft. Install the key and the hub for the
pulley. Use the installation tool to pull the hub tight
against the crankshaft. Remove the tool. Install the cap-
3
screw for the pulley and tighten it to 105 N.m (77 lbf ft).
1
6. Install the pulley and capscrews on the hub. Tighten
FIGURE 12. CRANKSHAFT PULLEY the capscrews to 50 N.m (37 lbf ft).

7. Install the drive belt and the drive belt tensioner.

4. Remove the capscrews that hold the timing cover to
the block. Carefully remove the cover. TIMING CHAIN AND SPROCKETS
5. Remove the oil seal from the timing cover. Do not Removal (See FIGURE 14.)
bend or damage the timing cover when removing the oil
seal. 1. Remove the timing cover.

8
 2. Compress the timing chain tensioner. See
1. CAPSCREW FIGURE 15. Install a pin in the hole (1) to hold the ten-
2. CAMSHAFT SPROCKET
3. CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
sion. Install the upper capscrew for the tensioner but do
4. TIMING CHAIN not tighten it.
5. TIMING CHAIN
TENSIONER 3. Align the timing marks on the sprockets with the tabs
on the chain tensioner.
2
1. TIMING MARKS
1 5

4
1
3
1
1

FIGURE 14. TIMING GEARS

2. Align the timing marks on the crankshaft and cam-

shaft sprockets.

3. Remove the upper capscrew for the timing chain ten-

sioner. Loosen the other capscrew but do not remove it.
4. Remove the camshaft sprocket and the timing chain.
Use a puller to remove the crankshaft sprocket.
Installation (See FIGURE 14.)
1. Install the crankshaft sprocket. Make sure the sprock-
et is tight against the crankshaft.
FIGURE 16. TIMING MARKS
4. Install the timing chain on the camshaft sprocket and
the crankshaft sprocket. Align the camshaft sprocket
with the dowel on the camshaft. Install the camshaft
sprocket and capscrew. Tighten the capscrew to 50 N.m
(37 lbf ft).
5. Remove the pin from the timing chain tensioner.
Tighten the capscrews for the tensioner to 24 N.m (18
lbf ft)..
6. Install the timing cover.

1
2 Removal (See FIGURE 14.)
3
1. APPLY TENSION AND INSERT PIN IN THIS
HOLE
2. ALIGNMENT TABS FOR TIMING
3. APPLY TENSION FROM THIS DIRECTION
FIGURE 15. TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER
CAMSHAFT
NOTE. The engine is removed from the lift truck for
this procedure.
1. Remove the drive belt and timing cover.
2. Remove the rocker arms, push rods and hydraulic lift-
ers as described in “Cylinder Head, Disassembly”. Put
the parts in a rack so that they will be installed again in
the same position.
5. Remove the capscrew for the camshaft sprocket. Re-
move the sprocket and the timing chain. Remove the
timing chain tensioner.

9
6. Remove the capscrew for the oil pump drive. Lift and CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
turn the oil pump drive and remove it.
Removal
7. Remove the capscrews and the camshaft thrust plate. Special tools are required to remove the camshaft bear-
Carefully pull the camshaft from the cylinder block. ings. Install the tool and remove the bearings as shown
Give enough support to the camshaft so that the bearings in FIGURE 17.
are not damaged.

Inspection

Check the surfaces of the camshaft for wear and dam-

age. See the ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS at the end of
this section.

1. Measure the diameter of the bearing journals. The

correct dimension is 47.44 to 47.49 mm 1.867 to 1.869
in).

2. Measure the inside diameter of the camshaft bearings.

The correct clearance between the camshaft and the
A604
bearings is 0.026 to 0.101 mm (0.001 to 0.0039 in).
FIGURE 17. CAMSHAFT BEARINGS,
3. Put the camshaft in V–blocks and measure the lift of REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
the camshaft lobes. The correct lift for all lobes is 6.60
mm (0.259 in). Installation

Installation (See FIGURE 14.)

1. Lubricate the camshaft lobes and bearing surfaces
with a camshaft lubricant. Install the camshaft in the
bearings, being careful not to damage the parts.
2. Install the thrust plate for the camshaft. Tighten the
capscrews for the thrust plate to 12 N.m (106 lbf in).
3. Install the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets and the
timing chain.
CAUTION
The holes for the oil passages in the camshaft bear-
ings must be aligned with the oil passages in the bore
of the cylinder block. If the oil passages are not
aligned correctly, the loss of lubrication will cause a
failure of the camshaft bearings or other parts of the
engine.
1. Use the tool and install the bearings as shown in
FIGURE 17.
2. Apply a gasket sealer to the plug and install the plug at
the rear of the cylinder block.

4. Install the drive for the oil pump. OIL PAN

NOTE: If a new camshaft is installed, new valve lifters Removal (See FIGURE 18.)
must also be installed. 1. Drain the oil from the engine.

5. Install the valve lifters, push rods and rocker arms. 2. Remove the starter.

3. Remove the capscrews and nuts from the oil pan. Re-
6. Install the timing cover. move the oil pan.

10
Installation (See FIGURE 18.)
1
1. Clean the sealing surfaces on the oil pan and the 3
block, removing the old sealant. 2 4

3
1. CAPSCREW
2. BRACKET
3. OIL PUMP
2 DRIVE
3 4. O–RING
5. SHAFT
6. RETAINER
7. OIL PUMP

1 5

6
1. OIL PAN 3. REAR SEAL
2. TIMING COVER 4. SEALANT
1
FIGURE 18. OIL PAN 7

2. Install the rear seal in the oil pan. Use an RTV sealant
at the ends of the seal. Use an RTV sealant between the
oil pan, front cover and the block. Apply a 2 mm (0.08
in) bead of sealant around the sealing surfaces of the oil
pan.
3. Install the oil pan with the capscrews and nuts. Tight-
en the capscrews and nuts to 8 N.m (71 lbf in).
4. Install the starter.
OIL PUMP
Removal (See FIGURE 19.)
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2. Drain the engine oil.
3. Remove the starter.
FIGURE 19. OIL PUMP
Disassembly and Repair
(See FIGURE 19. and FIGURE 23.)
1. Disassemble the oil pump as necessary for cleaning
and inspection. Remove the four screws that fasten the
cover to the pump body. Remove the cover and gasket.
2. Make an index mark on the gears so that they can be
installed again in the same position to each other. Re-
move the gears. Do not remove the tube from the cover
unless it is damaged or loose.
WARNING
The pressure regulator valve has a compressed
spring. When the pin is removed, do not permit a
sudden release of the spring and cause an injury.

4. Remove the bolts that fasten the oil pan to the block. 3. Remove the pin, spring and regulator valve.
Remove the oil pan. Inspection
5. Remove the capscrew from the rear main bearing cap 1. Inspect the housing for worn surfaces or damaged
Remove the oil pump and the extension shaft. threads.

11
2. Make sure the pressure regulator moves freely and the a. Install the gears in the housing as shown in
spring is not damaged. FIGURE 20. Measure the clearance between the
gear teeth. The correct clearance is 0.094 to 0.195
mm (0.004 to 0.008 in). Measure the clearance
MEASURE CLEARANCE between the gears and the housing. The correct
BETWEEN THE GEARS clearance is 0.038 to 0.102 mm (0.0015 to 0.004
in). Measure the clearance between the end of the
gears and the housing. The correct clearance is
0.08 to 0.10 mm (0.002 to 0.006 in).

b. Measure the width and depth of the pump hous-

ing as shown in FIGURE 21. The maximum
depth of the housing is 30.35 to 30.43 mm (1.195
to 1.198 in). The maximum diameter for the gears
is 38.18 to 38.25 mm (1.503 to 1.506 in).

MEASURE CLEARANCE BETWEEN 1

THE GEARS AND THE HOUSING

1. DEPTH OF HOUSING
MEASURE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE 2. WIDTH OF HOUSING
GEARS AND THE END OF THE HOUSING FIGURE 21. OIL PUMP HOUSING

c. Measure the height and diameter of the gears as

shown in FIGURE 22. The maximum height of
the gears is 30.45 to 30.48 mm (1.199 to 1.120
in). The maximum diameter of the gears is 38.05
to 38.10 mm (1.498 to 1.50 in).

Assembly (See FIGURE 23.)

1. Lubricate the internal parts with clean engine oil.

FIGURE 20. OIL PUMP GEARS AND HOUSING
3. Make the following measurements of the gears and
the housing:
Install the gears and fill all of the cavities between the
gear teeth with petroleum jelly.
2. Install the gasket, cover and the screws. Tighten the
screws to 10 N.m (89 lbf in).
3. Install the pressure regulator, spring and pin.

12
 PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD
ASSEMBLIES

1
Connecting Rod Bearings, Replacement
1. HEIGHT
OF GEAR
2. WIDTH NOTE: Connecting rod bearings are available in a stan-
OF GEAR dard size and the following undersizes: 0.001 in, 0.002
in, 0.010 in, and 0.020 in. If a bearing on a journal is
2 worn, both the upper and lower half of the bearing must
be replaced.

1. Remove the oil pan and the oil pump.

FIGURE 22. OIL PUMP GEARS

Installation (See FIGURE 19.)
1. Heat the plastic retainer in hot water and install the ex-
tension shaft. Install the oil pump on the rear main bear-
ing cap.
2. Install the capscrew for the bracket and tighten it to 25
N.m (18 lbf ft).
2. Put a mark on the connecting rod and cap with the cyl-
inder number so that the parts will be installed again in
their original positions. Remove the cap for the connect-
ing rod bearing and the lower bearing half.
3. Push the connecting rod away from the crankshaft and
remove the upper bearing half. Wipe the oil from the
bearing halves and the bearing journal.

1. PUMP COVER 7 4. Use a micrometer to measure the bearing journal. The

2. SUCTION TUBE
correct diameter is 50.758 to 50.784 mm (1.9983 to
1 5 1.9994 in). The bearing journal must be within the fol-
lowing specifications:
6
2
Out–of–round less than 0.005 mm (0.00019 in)
Taper less than 0.005 mm (0.00019 in)

If the bearing journals are not within specifications, the

crankshaft must be removed and the bearing journal
10 ground to an undersize. If the bearing journal can not be
repaired so that the bearing journal is a correct under-
3 size, the crankshaft must be replaced.
11 4

5. If the bearing journal is within specifications, mea-

8. CAPSCREWS
12 9. GASKET sure the clearance between the new bearing and the
10. PRESSURE crankshaft. Use plastic gauge material to check the
3. DRIVE GEAR REGULATOR clearance:
4. DRIVEN GEAR VALVE
5. PUMP BODY 11. REGULATOR
6. RETAINER SPRING a. Put a piece of plastic gauge material across the
7. SHAFT 12. RETAINER PIN full width of the bearing journal as shown in
FIGURE 24. Do not rotate the crankshaft when
FIGURE 23. OIL PUMP the plastic is between the bearing and its journal.

13
 and the crankshaft. The correct clearance is 0.10 to 0.38
mm (0.0039 to 0.0149 in).

FIGURE 24. CHECK THE BEARING JOURNAL

b. Remove the bearing cap. The gauge material will
be compressed and wider and will adhere to ei-
ther the bearing or its journal. Use the scale on the FIGURE 26. MEASURE THE SIDE
CLEARANCE, CONNECTING RODS
envelope for the gauge material to measure the
width of the plastic at its widest point. The scale Piston And Connecting Rod Assemblies,
will indicate the clearance in millimetres or thou- Removal and Disassembly
sandths of an inch. See FIGURE 25. The correct
clearance is 0.025 to 0.079 mm (0.00098 to 1. Remove the oil pan and the oil pump.
0.0031 in).

1 1. PISTON
2. CONNECTING ROD
3. BEARING
2
4

FIGURE 25. MEASURE THE GAUGE

MATERIAL ON A BEARING JOURNAL

c. If the clearance is greater than the specifications,

select a new undersize bearing set and install it.
Measure the clearance again. If the clearance can
3
not meet specifications with the available under- 5
size bearings, the bearing journal must be ground 4. CYLINDER BLOCK
to a new undersize. If the bearing journal is al- 5. CONNECTING
ready at the maximum undersize, the crankshaft ROD CAP
must be replaced. 6 6. NUTS

d. If the clearance is within specifications, lubricate
the bearing with engine oil and install the bearing
and bearing cap. Tighten the nuts on the bearing
cap. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
6. When all of the rod bearings have been replaced,
check the side clearances between the connecting rods
FIGURE 27. PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD
2. Remove the cylinder head as described in Cylinder
Head, Removal.
3. If the engine has been in service for many hours, a
ridge can be worn in the top of the cylinder. This ridge

14
can be removed with a ridge reamer tool. Turn the crank-
shaft to lower the piston to the bottom of the stroke in its
cylinder. Put a cloth on top of the piston for a collector of
metal particles. Remove the ridge at the top of the cylin-
der.
4. Clean the carbon from the top of each cylinder.
5. Put an identification mark on the top of each piston.
6. Remove the caps and bearings from each connecting
rod. Keep the caps and bearings with their original pis-
ton assemblies. Mark the caps so that they will be in-
stalled again in their original positions. Do not mix the
parts.
7. Push the connecting rod and piston from the cylinder.
Temporarily install the bearing cap on the connecting
rod to keep the parts together.
FIGURE 28. PISTON PIN REMOVAL
CAUTION
The pistons are aluminum alloy and can be damaged
if they are hit with a hard object. The grooves for the
piston rings are machined to close tolerances. Use a
tool made to clean the grooves of the piston rings. Do
not use a wire brush to clean a piston.
8. Remove the piston rings from the pistons. Use a press
to remove the piston pins from the piston. See
FIGURE 28.
Piston, Cleaning
WARNING
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic, and
can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning sol-
vents, always follow the solvent manufacturer’s rec-
ommended safety precautions.
Use solvent to clean the pistons and connecting rods.
Make sure that the oil passages are clean.
Inspect the pistons for wear, cracks, and damage. Re-
place a piston that is worn or damaged.
Check the clearance of the piston pin in the piston. The
normal clearance is shown in the ENGINE SPECIFI-
CATIONS. The piston pin will normally fall from the
hole in the piston by its own weight. The piston pin is a
press fit in the connecting rod. The piston and piston pin
are a matched set and must be replaced as a unit if the
clearances are greater than the specifications.
Pistons and Cylinder Bores, Inspection
Inspect the pistons and cylinder bores for wear and dam-
age. Measure the piston to cylinder bores clearance as
follows:
1. Measure the cylinder bore at right angles to the
centerline to find any distortion from wear. See
FIGURE 29. A cylinder that is out–of–round
greater than 0.013 mm (0.0005 in) must be re-
paired.
FIGURE 29. MEASURE THE CYLINDER BORE
2. Measure the piston as shown in FIGURE 30.
3. Subtract the piston diameter from the bore diam-
eter to determine the piston to bore clearance The
15
 correct clearance in the bore is 0.015 to 0.045 mm
(0.0007 to 0.0017 in).
1 (0.0019 to 0.0027 in). The correct clearance for the oil
1 ring is 0.05 to 0.21 mm (0.0019 to 0.0082 in). Replace
10 mm (0.4 in)
1. MEASURE PISTON HERE
2. MEASURE BORE HERE
FIGURE 30. GAUGE POINTS FOR PISTON AND
CYLINDER BORE
Piston Rings
NOTE: Check the clearance of the piston rings in the
cylinder after the surface of the cylinder has been fin-
ished with a very fine hone. New piston rings are avail-
able for the following piston sizes: standard size, and
0.005 in, 0.010 in, 0.020 in, and 0.030 in oversize. The
piston rings must match the size of the piston on which
they are installed. Check the side clearance and the end
clearance of the piston rings as described in the follow-
ing paragraphs.
Each compression ring has a mark on one surface. This
mark must be toward the top of the cylinder when the
16
piston ring is installed. The No. 1 compression ring nor-
mally has a chrome or molybdenum surface.
The oil control ring has three pieces. There are two thin
steel rings separated by an expander ring.
1. Measure the clearance between the piston ring and the
groove in the piston as shown in FIGURE 31. The clear-
ance for the compression ring is 0.05 to 0.07 mm
the piston if the clearances are greater than the specifica-
tions.
A595
FIGURE 31. CHECK THE CLEARANCE
BETWEEN THE PISTON RING AND THE
GROOVE
2. Measure the end clearance of each piston ring as
shown in FIGURE 32. Install the piston ring into the
cylinder where it will be used. Use a thickness gauge to
measure the amount of end clearance. The correct clear-
ance for the compression ring is 0.25 to 0.50 mm (0.010
to 0.020 in). The correct clearance for the oil ring is 0.25
to 1.27 mm (0.010 to 0.050 in). If necessary, a file can be
used to increase the clearance of the piston rings.

A593
FIGURE 32. CHECK THE END CLEARANCE OF
THE PISTON RINGS
Piston And Connecting Rod Assemblies,
Assembly and installation
NOTE: The piston must be installed on the connecting
rod so that the marks that indicate the front of the engine
are aligned.
1. Assemble the connecting rod to the piston. Use the
tool shown in FIGURE 28. Make sure the connecting
rod and piston are aligned correctly. Use a press to install
the piston pin into the piston and connecting rod. Lubri-
cate the piston pin with engine oil during installation.
Make sure the piston moves freely on the piston pin.
2. Check the clearances of the piston rings as described
in “Piston Rings”. Install and arrange the piston rings on
the piston as shown in FIGURE 33. Make sure the
marks on the piston rings are toward the top of the pis-
ton.
FAN END OF ENGINE
A (See FIGURE 35.)
B C
A. UPPER COMPRESSION RING GAP
B. LOWER COMPRESSION RING GAP
C. OIL CONTROL RING ASSEMBLY GAP
FIGURE 33. ARRANGEMENT OF THE
END GAP OF THE PISTON RINGS
3. Lubricate the assembly with engine oil during instal-
lation. Install a ring compressor on the piston as shown
in FIGURE 34.
FIGURE 34. INSTALL A RING COMPRESSOR
4. Make sure that the mark on the piston is toward the fan
end of the engine Install the piston and connecting rod
assemblies in the cylinder bores.
5. Install the bearings and the caps for the connecting
rods. Tighten the nuts for the bearing caps to 52 N.m (38
lbf ft). Check the side clearance of each connecting rod
after the bearing cap is installed. See the procedure in
the paragraphs under “Connecting Rod Bearings, Re-
placement”.
6. Install the cylinder head as described in “Cylinder
Head, Installation”.
7. Install the oil pump and the oil pan.
CRANKSHAFT
Rear Oil Seal, Replacement
NOTE: The following procedure is for replacement of
the oil seal at the flywheel end of the engine.
1. Remove the flywheel.
2. Use a small screwdriver to pull the seal from the en-
gine. See FIGURE 35. Be careful not to damage the seal
surface on the crankshaft.
3. Clean the area for the oil seal in the block and main
bearing cap. Lubricate the bore for the seal with engine
oil.
17
 4. Remove the bearing caps for the connecting rods as
1 described in the procedures under “Piston And Connect-
2
ing Rod Assemblies”. If the piston and connecting rod
assemblies will not be removed for repair, push them to
the top of their bores so that they are away from the
crankshaft.

5. Remove the caps for the main bearings. Make sure

that there are identification marks on the caps so that
they can be installed again in the same position.

6. Carefully remove the crankshaft from the block.

1. LIP OF SEAL
2. SCREWDRIVER 7. Remove the rear oil seal. Remove the main bearings
from the block and the main bearing caps.
FIGURE 35. REAR OIL SEAL
Crankshaft, Inspection and Repair

4. Put the seal on the seal installation tool. See WARNING

FIGURE 36. Install the tool on the crankshaft. Turn the Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic, and
handle on the tool to push the seal into the bore. Make can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning sol-
sure the seal is even with the block. Remove the tool. vents, always follow the solvent manufacturer’s rec-
ommended safety precautions.

1. Clean the crankshaft with solvent and dry thoroughly.

1 2
2. Inspect the crankshaft for cracks or other damage.

3. Inspect the crankshaft for wear and damage. There are

two methods for measuring the crankshaft and main
bearings. Use method A when possible.

METHOD A

1. OIL SEAL 1. See FIGURE 37. Use a micrometer to measure the

2. INSTALLATION TOOL journals for the bearings of the crankshaft. Do the meas-
urement at different positions to see if the surface of the
FIGURE 36. INSTALL THE OIL SEAL
bearing is round. The correct diameter for all main jour-
nals is 63.360 to 63.384 mm (2.4945 to 2.4954 in). The
5. Install the flywheel. maximum taper on a journal is 0.005 mm (0.00019 in).
The maximum out–of–round on a journal is 0.005 mm
Crankshaft, Removal (0.00019 in).

1. Remove the flywheel housing and the flywheel.
2. Remove the oil pan and the oil pump as described in
the procedures
3. Remove the crankshaft pulley and timing cover as de-
scribed in the procedures under “Timing Cover”.
2. If the clearance is greater than the specifications, se-
lect a new undersize bearing set and install it. Measure
the clearance again. If the clearance can not meet speci-
fications with the available undersize bearings, the bear-
ing journal must be ground to a new undersize. If the
bearing journal is already at the maximum undersize,
the crankshaft must be replaced.

18

9741
9734
FIGURE 37. CRANKSHAFT INSPECTION
NOTE: Main bearings are an insert bearing that does
not use shims for adjustment. Main bearings are avail-
able in a standard size and the following undersizes:
0.001 in, 0.002 in, 0.009 in, 0.010 in, and 0.020 in. If a
bearing on a journal is worn, both the upper and lower
half of the bearing must be replaced.
METHOD B
1. Use a plastic gauge material to check the clearance.
The procedure is similar for both connecting rod bear-
ings and main bearings. If the engine has been removed
from the lift truck put the engine so that the crankshaft is
up. The weight of the crankshaft is against the upper
bearing half and the total clearance can be measured cor-
rectly. If the engine is still in the lift truck, the crankshaft
must have a support to remove any additional clearance
between the upper bearing half and its journal.
2. All main bearing caps must be installed and their
capscrews tightened to 95 N.m (70 lbf ft). Do not use the
capscrews to pull the main bearing caps into position.
3. Check the rear main bearing first. Remove the cap for
the rear main bearing. The procedure for checking the
clearance of the other bearings is similar.
4. Clean the oil from the bearing half and journal to be
checked. Put a piece of plastic gauge material across the
full width of the bearing journal as shown in
FIGURE 24. Do not rotate the crankshaft when the
gauge material is between the main bearing and its jour-
nal.
5. Install the main bearing cap and tighten the cap-
screws. The capscrews must be tightened to their final
torque or there will be an error in the measurement.
6. Remove the main bearing cap. The gauge material
will be compressed and wider and will adhere to either
the bearing or its journal. Use the scale on the envelope
for the gauge material to measure the width of the plastic
at its widest point. See FIGURE 25.
7. If the clearance is greater than the specifications, se-
lect a new undersize bearing set and install it. Measure
the clearance again. If the clearance can not meet speci-
fications with the available undersize bearings, the bear-
ing journal must be ground to a new undersize. If the
bearing journal is already at the maximum undersize,
the crankshaft must be replaced.
MEASURE THE CLEARANCE FOR THE
THRUST BEARING (See FIGURE 38.)
Push the crankshaft forward and measure the clearance
between the thrust bearing (fourth main bearing cap)
and the thrust surface. The correct clearance is 0.0511 to
0.1780 mm (0.002 to 0.007 in).
Crankshaft, Installation
1. Lubricate new main bearing halves with engine oil
and install them in the bearing housing of the block.
2. Carefully install the crankshaft in the block.
3. Lubricate the lower halves of the main bearings and
install them in their caps. Install each main bearing cap
in its position on the block. Make sure each main bear-
ing cap is installed in its original position. If a main bear-
ing cap is not installed correctly, there can be an align-
ment problem that will cause rapid wear and possible
damage to the engine. Move the crankshaft backward
and fully forward to put the thrust bearing in position.
4. Tighten the capscrews for the main bearing caps to 95
N.m (70 lbf ft). Check that the crankshaft rotates
smoothly.
19

MOVE
CRANKSHAFT
FORWARD
MEASURE CLEARANCE
FIGURE 38. MEASURE THE CLEARANCE OF
THE CRANKSHAFT
4. Check the clearance between the fourth main bearing
and the thrust surface. Push the crankshaft forward.
Measure the axial clearance between the crankshaft and
the thrust surface of the rear bearing. See FIGURE 38.
7. Install the piston and connecting rod assemblies as de-
scribed in “Piston And Connecting Rod Assemblies, In-
stallation”.
8. Install the oil pump and the oil pan as described in the
procedures for the “Oil Pump”.
FLYWHEEL AND RING GEAR
Flywheel, Removal (See FIGURE 40.)
1. Remove the capscrews for the flywheel, then remove
the flywheel.
20
2. If necessary, remove the flywheel housing.
Ring Gear, Replacement
WARNING
Wear eye protection for this operation to prevent eye
injury from metal chips. You will be using a hammer
and chisel to break the ring gear.
Before the ring gear is removed, check the position of
the chamfer on the teeth.
1. See FIGURE 39. Use a hammer and chisel to break
the ring gear. Make sure that you do not damage the fly-
wheel.
FIGURE 39. RING GEAR REMOVAL
2. The ring gear must be heated before it can be installed
on the flywheel. Use an oven that has a temperature con-
trol. Make sure that the ring gear is not heated to more
than 200°C (390°F).
WARNING
Hot parts. Wear protective clothing and gloves to
prevent burns.
3. Install the ring gear on the flywheel. Make sure that
the chamfer on the teeth is in the correct direction to-
ward the starter.
Flywheel, Installation (See FIGURE 40.)
1. If the flywheel housing was removed, install it on the
engine. Install the capscrews and tighten them to 90 N.m
(66 lbf ft).
2. Install the flywheel on the crankshaft. Apply an adhe-
sive sealant on the threads of the capscrews, then install
the capscrews for the flywheel. Tighten the capscrews to
75 N.m (55 lbf ft) as shown in the sequence in (See
FIGURE 40.)
 separately. During installation, apply a sealant to the
1. FLYWHEEL HOUSING gasket for the water pump. Tighten the capscrews for the
1
2. FLYWHEEL
3. DRIVE PLATE
pump to 25 N.m (18 lbf ft). Tighten the capscrews for the
4. SUPPORT PLATE pulley to 27 to 34 N.m (20 to 25 lbf ft). Adjust the ten-
sion of the drive belt as described in the section PERI-
2
ODIC MAINTENANCE, 8000 SRM 493.
3

1. WATER PUMP
2. PULLEY 1
1
6 3
TIGHTENING
SEQUENCE
2
4 5
2

FIGURE 40. FLYWHEEL ARRANGEMENT

COOLING SYSTEM

Water Pump
FIGURE 41. WATER PUMP
If any parts of the water pump are worn, replace the wa-
ter pump. Parts for the water pump are not available

ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
General Clearance between exhaust valve and guide:
Number of cylinders 4 0.035 to 0.081 mm (0.0014 to 0.0031 in)

Firing order 1–3–4–2 Valve head thickness (minimum):

0.08 mm (0.031 in)
Bore and Stroke 89.0 x 88.0 mm (3.50 x 3.46 in)
Valve spring, free length: 52.3 mm (2.06 in)
Displacement 2.2 litre (134 in3)
Valve spring force (installed and valve is closed):
Compression Ratio 8.85:1
446 to 488 N @ 40.9 mm
Idle Speed 800 (100 to 110 pounds @ 1.61 in)
Governor speed 2900 Valve spring force (installed and valve is open):
925 to 987 N @ 30.9 mm
Valves
(208 to 222 pounds @ 1.22 in)
Valve seat specifications: See FIGURE 8.
Valve seat width (intake valves): Camshaft
1.25 to 1.50 mm (0.049 to 0.059 in) Bearing journals, diameter:
Valve seat width (exhaust valves): 47.44 to 47.49 mm (1.867 to 1.869 in)
1.60 to 1.90 mm (0.063 to 0.075 in) Bearing journals, clearance:
Clearance between intake valve and guide: 0.026 to 0.101 mm (0.001 to 0.0039 in)
0.028 to 0.066 mm (0.0011 to 0.0026 in) Lift, intake and exhaust: 6.60 mm (0.259 in)

21
Pistons
Clearance to bore:
0.015 to 0.045 mm (0.00007 to 0.0017 in)
Piston Rings
End clearance, compression rings:
0.25 to 0.50 mm (0.010 to 0.020 in)
End clearance, oil control ring:
0.25 to 1.27 mm (0.010 to 0.050 in)
Groove clearance, compression rings:
0.05 to 0.07 mm (0.0019 to 0.0027 in)
Groove clearance, oil control ring:
0.05 to 0.21 mm (0.0019 to 0.0082 in)
Piston Pin
Diameter: 20.320 to 20.325 mm (0.8000 to 0.8002 in)
Clearance in piston:
0.010 to 0.022 mm (0.0004 to 0.0009 in)
Press fit in connecting rod:
0.025 to 0.045 mm (0.00098 to 0.0017 in)
Cylinder Bore
Diameter: 88.991 to 89.009 mm (3.5036 to 3.5043 in)
Out–of–round, maximum: 0.013 mm (0.0005 in)
Taper, maximum: 0.013 mm (0.0005 in)
Taper, thrust side maximum: 0.02 mm (0.001 in)
Crankshaft
Diameter of main bearing journal:
63.360 to 63.384 mm (2.4945 to 2.4954 in)
Out–of–round of main bearing journal (maximum):
0.005 mm (0.00019 in)
22
Taper of main bearing journal (maximum)
0.005 mm (0.00019 in)
Clearance between journals and main bearings:
0.015 to 0.047 mm (0.0006 to 0.0019 in)
Clearance at thrust bearing:
0.0511 to 0.1780 mm (0.002 to 0.007 in)
Diameter of connecting rod bearing journal:
50.758 to 50.784 mm (1.9983 to 1.9994 in)
Out–of–round of connecting rod bearing journal
(maximum): 0.005 mm (0.00019 in)
Taper of connecting rod bearing journal (maximum):
0.005 mm (0.00019 in)
Connecting Rods
Clearance between crankshaft journals and connecting
rod bearings:
0.025 to 0.079 mm (0.00098 to 0.0026 in)
Side clearance of connecting rod to crankshaft:
0.10 to 0.38 mm (0.0039 to 0.0149 in)
Oil Pump
Clearance between gears:
0.094 to 0.195 mm (0.004 to 0.008 in)
Housing depth for gears:
30.35 to 30.43 mm (1.195 to 1.198 in)
Housing diameter for gears:
38.18 to 38.25 mm (1.503 to 1.506 in)
Gear length: 30.45 to 30.48 mm (1.199 to 1.20 in)
Gear diameter: 38.05 to 38.10 mm (1.498 to 1.50 in)
Gear clearance in housing:
0.038 to 0.102 mm (0.0015 to 0.004 in)
 TROUBLESHOOTING
ITEM SPECIFICATION
CAMSHAFT SPROCKET 105 N.m (77 lbf ft)
CAMSHAFT THRUST PLATE 12 N.m (106 lbf in)
CONNECTING ROD CAP NUTS 52 N.m (38 lbf ft)
CRANKSHAFT PULLEY HUB 105 N.m (77 lbf ft)
CRANKSHAFT PULLEY 50 N.m (37 lbf ft)
CRANKSHAFT SENSOR 9 N.m (80 lbf in)
CYLINDER HEAD See FIGURE 10.
ENGINE MOUNT TO ENGINE 52 N.m (38 lbf ft)
EXHAUST MANIFOLD 13 N.m (115 lbf in)
FAN to HUB 29 N.m (16 lbf ft)
FLYWHEEL 75 N.m (55 lbf ft)
FLYWHEEL HOUSING 90 N.m (66 lbf ft)
IDLER PULLEY 40 to 60 N.m (30 to 44 lbf ft)
INTAKE MANIFOLD 25 N.m (18 lbf ft)
MAIN BEARING CAP 95 N.m (70 lbf ft)
OIL PAN 8 N.m (71 lbf in)
OIL PUMP COVER 10 N.m (89 lbf in)
OIL PUMP DRIVE ASSEMBLY 25 N.m (18 lbf ft)
OIL PUMP MOUNT 43 N.m (32 lbf ft)
ROCKER ARM NUTS 30 N.m (22 lbf ft)
ROCKER COVER 10 N.m (89 lbf in)
SPARK PLUGS 15 N.m (11 lbf ft)
STARTER 41 to 49 N.m (30 to 36 lbf ft)
TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER 24 N.m (18 lbf ft)
TIMING COVER 11 N.m (97 lbf in)
WATER PUMP 25 N.m (18 lbf ft)
WATER PUMP PULLEY 27 to 34 N.m (20 to 25 lbf ft)

23

PROBLEM
When the ignition switch is in
the “START” position, the
starter does not operate.
The engine will not start.
The engine does not run
smoothly.
The engine does not have
enough power.
There is noise inside the en-
gine.
24
TROUBLESHOOTING
POSSIBLE CAUSE
1. The battery has a problem.
2. The battery is not fully charged.
3. The connections at the battery are
loose or they have corrosion.
4. The ignition switch has a problem.
5. The starter system has a problem.
6. There are damaged parts in the
engine.
1. The fuel tank is empty.
2. The battery is not fully charged.
3. The valves are worn or damaged.
4. The piston rings are worn or have
damage.
5. The ignition system has a prob-
lem.
6. The fuel system has a problem.
1. The valve mechanism does not
operate correctly.
2. The head gasket has a leak.
3. The cylinder head has cracks.
4. There is a leak in the intake sys-
tem.
5. The spark plugs have a problem.
6. The ignition system has problems.
(See the sections for the electrical
components in the SERVICE
MANUAL for more information.
1. The air filter is dirty.
2. The fuel is the wrong type.
3. The ignition timing is not correct.
4. The valve mechanism does not
operate correctly.
5. The piston assemblies are worn or
damaged.
6. The spark plugs are the wrong
type or they are not installed cor-
rectly.
7. The valve timing is not correct.
8. The exhaust system has restric-
tions.
1. The main bearings are worn or
damaged.
2. The bearings for the connecting
rods are worn or damaged.
3. The pistons are worn or damaged.
4. The engine is too hot.
PROCEDURE OR ACTION
1. Install a new battery.
2. Charge the battery.
3. Clean and tighten the battery con-
nections.
4. Repair or install an ignition switch.
5. Check and repair the starter cir-
cuit.
6. Repair the engine.
1. Fill the fuel tank.
2. Charge the battery.
3. Repair the valves.
4. Install new piston rings.
5. Check and repair the ignition sys-
tem.
6. Check and repair the fuel system.
1. Repair the valve mechanism.
2. Install a new head gasket.
3. Install a new cylinder head.
4. Install new gaskets at the intake
manifold.
5. Install new spark plugs.
6. Repair the ignition system.
1. Clean or install a new air cleaner.
2. Drain and fill fuel tank.
3. Check timing.
4. Repair parts of valve mechanism.
5. Install new pistons.
6. Install new spark plugs.
7. Check valve mechanism.
8. Clean or repair exhaust system.
1. Install new bearings.
2. Install new bearings.
3. Install new pistons.
4. Check the cooling system.

PROBLEM
There is noise inside the en-
gine. (Continued)
10. The valve mechanism does not
There is noise in the engine
during acceleration.
The engine gets too hot.
The bearings in the engine
are damaged.
TROUBLESHOOTING
POSSIBLE CAUSE
5. There is not enough oil in the en-
gine.
6. The flywheel is loose.
7. A connecting rod is bent.
8. There is a leak in the exhaust sys-
tem.
9. A valve lifter has a problem.
10. Repair the valve mechanism.
operate correctly.
1. The spark plugs are dirty.
2. The spark plugs are the wrong
type.
3. The ignition timing is not correct.
4. The fuel is the wrong type.
5. There is too much carbon in the
combustion chamber.
6. The engine is too hot.
1. There is not enough coolant in the
cooling system.
2. The belt for the water pump is
worn or not adjusted correctly.
3. The thermostat has damage.
4. The cooling system has restric-
tions.
5. The water pump has damage.
6. The radiator is dirty.
7. The exhaust system has restric-
tions.
1. There is not enough oil in the en-
gine.
2. The oil in the engine is the wrong
type.
3. The oil pump has damage.
4. The connecting rods have dam-
age.
5. The camshaft is worn or dam-
aged.
6. The passages for oil have restric-
tions.
7. The bearings are not installed cor-
rectly.
8. The oil in the engine is dirty.
PROCEDURE OR ACTION
5. Fill the engine to the correct level.
6. Tighten the capscrews for the fly-
wheel.
7. Repair the engine.
8. Repair the exhaust system.
9. Check the valve lifters.
1. Install new spark plugs.
2. Install the correct spark plugs.
3. Check the timing.
4. Fill the tank with the correct fuel.
5. Clean the cylinder head and pis-
tons.
6. Check the cooling system.
1. Fill the cooling system to the cor-
rect level.
2. Check and adjust the drive belt.
3. Install a new thermostat.
4. Clean the cooling system.
5. Install a new water pump.
6. Clean the radiator.
7. Clean or repair the exhaust sys-
tem.
1. Fill the engine to the correct level.
2. Fill the engine with the correct oil.
3. Install a new oil pump.
4. Repair the engine.
5. Repair the engine.
6. Clean the passages in the engine
block.
7. Install new bearings.
8. Fill the engine with clean oil.
25
 INTRODUCTION

GENERAL
This section has the description and the repair proce-
dures for the engine and the fuel system. Removal, dis-
assembly, cleaning, assembly, installation, specifica-
tions and troubleshooting procedures are included.
The fuel injection pump has one plunger assembly that
supplies fuel to the four fuel injectors. A mechanical
governor controls the maximum engine speed. The op-
eration of this governor is described in the Fuel System
later in this section.

DESCRIPTION
The Isuzu 4JG2 diesel engine is a four–cylinder engine
with a displacement of 3059 cm3 (186.7 in3). The firing
order is 1–3–4–2. The No. 1 cylinder is toward the end
of the engine with the fan. The serial number of the en-
gine is on the side of the cylinder block near the No. 4
cylinder location.
This diesel engine has direct fuel injection. Diesel fuel is
injected into the cylinder at the end of the compression
stroke of the piston. A glow plug is also installed in the
cylinder head for each cylinder. These glow plugs are
cold start aids to make the diesel engine easier to start
when the engine is cold.
The crankshaft has five main bearings. The main bear-
ing in the center of the crankshaft is also the thrust bear-
ing and has thrust washers (thrust bearings) on each side
of the main bearing. The bearing journals have had a
special process called “tufftrided” and can not be re-
paired by grinding.
The pistons have three piston rings. Each of the two
compression rings have a special shape designed for its
position on the piston. The third piston ring is the oil
control ring. The cylinder liners are chrome plated.
The valves, valve guides, and valves seats can be re-
placed during engine repairs.

2 3 4
1
5

10 6

1. COOLING FAN
2. THERMOSTAT HOUSING
3. ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK
4. FILL CAP FOR ENGINE OIL
5. FUEL INJECTOR
6. SERIAL NUNBER
LOCATION
7. FLYWHEEL
8. DRAIN PLUG, ENGINE OIL
9. FUEL INJECTION PUMP
10. INTAKE MANIFOLD

FIGURE 1. ISUZU 4JG2 DIESEL ENGINE

1
 REPAIRS
WARNING
Disconnect the battery cables before doing any
disassembly and repair to the engine or parts of the
electrical system. Put a “DO NOT OPERATE” tag in
the operator’s area and on the battery connectors.
The diodes and resistors in the electrical system can
be damaged if the following cautions are not
followed:
• Do not disconnect the battery when the engine
is running. The voltage surge can damage the
electronic devices in the circuit.
• Do not disconnect an electric wire before the
engine is stopped and the switches are “OFF”.
• Do not cause a short circuit by connection of
the electric wires to the wrong terminals.
Make sure a correct identification is made of
the wire before it is connected.
• Make sure a battery is the correct voltage and
polarity before it is connected.
• Do not check for current flow by making a
spark because the electronic devices in the cir-
cuit can be damaged.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE
ENGINE
NOTE: The removal and installation procedures for the
engine are not included in this section. See the section,
THE FRAME for the procedures to remove and install
the engine.
CYLINDER HEAD AND VALVE
MECHANISM (See FIGURE 2.)
Removal
NOTE: The following procedure is for removal of the
cylinder head when the engine is in the lift truck. If the
2
engine has been removed from the lift truck, many of the
following disconnections and removals will already be
done.
1. Disconnect the battery cables at the battery.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Disconnect the air filter from the intake manifold. Re-
move the air filter and air duct.
4. Remove the fan guard from the radiator. Loosen the
alternator support bracket and remove the drive belt.
5. Remove the cooling fan and spacer. Remove the
pulley for the cooling fan and the drive belt.
6. Remove the alternator and its mount.
7. Remove the fuel lines between the fuel injectors and
the fuel injection pump. If the engine must be complete-
ly disassembled for repairs, remove fuel injection pump
as described in the procedure FUEL INJECTION
PUMP, Removal.
8. Disconnect the exhaust manifold from the cylinder
head.
9. Disconnect the hoses at the thermostat housing. Re-
move the clamps for the engine wiring that are on the
thermostat housing and the side of the cylinder head.
10. Remove the glow plug connectors. Remove the
glow plugs from the cylinder head.
11. Disconnect the fuel lines and remove the fuel injec-
tors.
12. Remove the intake manifold.
13. Remove the rocker arm cover.
14. Remove the rocker arm assembly. Remove the push
rods. Keep the push rods in the correct order so that they
will be installed in the same positions.
 1. VALVE COVER 5
2. GROMMET
3. CAPSCREW 4
4. OIL FILL CAP
5. BREATHER 3
6. PCV VALVE
7. HOSE 2 6
8. CAPSCREW
9. VALVE STEM SEAL
10. WASHER
11. VALVE GUIDE 1
12. LIFTING EYE
13. CYLINDER HEAD 7
14. GLOW PLUG CONNECTOR
15. GLOW PLUG

1
8
9
19 18 13
17 10

12 11

14

15

16

16. HEAD GASKET

17. COMBUSTION CHAMBER INSERT
18. VALVE SEAT, INTAKE
19. VALVE SEAT, EXHAUST

FIGURE 2. CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLY

15. Loosen and remove the cylinder head bolts in sever-

al steps in the sequence shown in FIGURE 3.
6 14 15 7
2 10 18 11 3
16. Remove the cylinder head from the cylinder block.
Remove the gasket.
1 9 17 12 4
5 13 16 8
NOTE: Keep all valve parts together so that they can be
installed in the same positions. FRONT OF ENGINE

FIGURE 3. LOOSENING SEQUENCE FOR

REMOVAL OF THE CYLINDER HEAD

3
17. Put the cylinder head on a flat work surface. Use a 3. Check the surface of the cylinder head for distortion at
wood surface or a pad to prevent damage to the cylinder the location for the intake and the exhaust manifold. If
head. Use a valve spring compressor to compress the the amount of distortion is more an 0.20 mm (0.008 in),
valve springs and remove the retainers. See FIGURE 4. the cylinder head needs repair.
Release the valve spring compressor. Remove the valve
spring cap, valve spring, seal, and seat washer. Remove
the valve from the cylinder head. If the valve will be
used again, make a mark on the valve head so that it can
be installed again in the same position.

1. VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR

1
9742

A
E F
C D

FIGURE 4. VALVES, REMOVAL AND B

INSTALLATION
FIGURE 5. CHECK THE CYLINDER HEAD FOR
18. Repeat step 17 to remove the other valves. DISTORTION

Cleaning 4. Use a straight edge and a thickness gauge to check the

1. Clean the surfaces of the cylinder head where the gas-
kets fit.
2. Clean the carbon from the combustion chambers and
the valve ports. Be careful not to damage the combus-
tion chamber inserts.
Inspection And Repairs
depth of the combustion chamber inserts. If the depth is
more than 0.02 mm (0.008 in), the insert(s) must be re-
placed. An insert with cracks or other damage must also
be replaced. Replace the combustion chamber inserts as
follows:
a. Use a hammer and rod to hit the insert and remove
it from the cylinder head. See FIGURE 6.

CYLINDER HEAD 1. COMBUSTION

CHAMBER INSERT
1. Inspect the cylinder head for cracks in the exhaust
ports, combustion chambers, combustion chamber in-
serts and external surfaces. If there are any cracks in the
cylinder head, it must be replaced.

2. Check the surface of the cylinder head for distortion. 1

Use a straight edge and a thickness gauge as shown in
FIGURE 5. Do the measurement in the positions
shown. If the amount of distortion is more than 0.2 mm
(0.008 in), the cylinder head needs repair. If the height of
the cylinder head is less than 91.55 mm (3.604 in), re- FIGURE 6. REMOVE THE COMBUSTION
place the cylinder head. CHAMBER INSERT

4
 b. Make sure the bore in the cylinder head is clean.
Put the insert in the seat in the cylinder head and
hit it with a plastic hammer.
c. See FIGURE 7. Put a piece of metal on top of the
combustion chamber insert. With a press, use
4500 to 5500 kg (9923 to 12,128 lb) of pressure to
install the inserts.
d. After installation, check that the insert is not
loose. Hit the insert with a plastic hammer to
check for looseness. See FIGURE 7. If the insert
is above the surface of the cylinder head, grind
the surface of the insert. The insert must not be
above the surface of the cylinder head.
1. PRESS 1
2. COMBUSTION
CHAMBER
INSERT
2
FIGURE 7. INSTALL THE COMBUSTION
CHAMBER INSERT
ROCKER SHAFT ASSEMBLY
1. Check the rocker arm shaft as shown in FIGURE 8.
Rotate the shaft and make a note of the highest and the
lowest reading on the dial indicator. If the difference be-
tween the readings is less very small, use a press to
straighten the shaft. Do not apply heat to the shaft. If the
difference between the readings is greater than 0.2 mm
(0.008 inch), replace the shaft.
2. Check the rocker arm shaft for wear. Use a microme-
ter and measure the diameter of the shaft at the locations
for the rocker arms. See FIGURE 8. The standard size of
the rocker arm shaft is 18.98 to 19.00 mm (0.747 to
0.748 in). When the diameter at any of the locations is
less than 18.9 mm (0.744 inch), replace the rocker arm
shaft.
9724
FIGURE 8. CHECK THE ROCKER ARM SHAFT
3. Inspect the rocker arms for wear. The standard inside
diameter of the rocker arm is 19.036 to 19.060 mm
(0.7494 to 0.7503 in). Replace the rocker arm when the
inside diameter is more than 19.100 mm (0.7519 in).
Find the clearance between the rocker arm and the rock-
er arm shaft. The standard clearance is 0.01 to 0.05 mm
(0.0004 to 0.002 in). When the clearance is more than
0.2 mm (0.008 inch), replace the rocker arm or the rock-
er arm shaft. Make sure the oil ports are clean. See
FIGURE 9.
1
1
1. OIL PORT
FIGURE 9. CHECK THE ROCKER ARM
4. Make sure the surfaces are not worn or damaged
where the rocker arm pushes on the valve stem. Use an
oil stone to remove minor wear patterns. A badly worn
or damaged rocker arm must be replaced.
VALVES AND GUIDES
1. Inspect the valves for burned or damaged areas in the
seat surfaces. The correct valve face angle is 45°. In-
spect for cracks and damaged or worn valve stems.
2. Check the diameter of the valve stems and inside di-
ameter of the valve guides. Check the clearance of each
valve stem in its valve guide. Use the following proce-
dure:
5
 a. Use a micrometer to measure the diameter of the
9727
valve stem in three places: top, center, and bot-
tom. The correct measurements are shown in
TABLE 1.

TABLE 1. VALVE STEM SIZES

VALVE STANDARD LIMIT
Intake 7.946–7.961 mm 7.880 mm
(0.3128–0.3134 in) (0.3102 in) FIGURE 10. VALVE GUIDES, REMOVAL
Exhaust 7.946–7.961 mm 7.850 mm
(0.3128–0.3134 in) (0.3091 in)

A
b. Use a hole gauge to measure the bore in the valve
guide. The correct measurements are shown in
TABLE 2.

TABLE 2. VALVE GUIDE CLEARANCE

VALVE STANDARD LIMIT
Intake 0.039–0.069 mm 0.200 mm
(0.0015–0.0027 in) (0.0079 in)
Exhaust 0.064–0.093 mm 0.250 mm 9743 DIMENSION “A” = 13 mm (0.512 in)
(0.0025–0.0037 in) (0.0098 in)
FIGURE 11. VALVE GUIDES, INSTALLATION
c. If the clearance between the valve stem and its VALVES AND VALVE SEATS
valve guide is greater than the specification, the
1. Check the valve seats for wear and damage. Before
valve and valve guide must be replaced as a set. any work is done on the valve seats, make sure the valve
guides are good.
Remove the valve guides with the special tool as shown 2. Check the depth of the valve below the face of the cyl-
in FIGURE 10. inder head. See TABLE 4. If the measurement of the
depth is more than the specification, replace the valve
Special Tools: Valve guide tool seat.
(HYSTER Part No. 320910)
3. Check the width of the contact area on the valve seat.
See FIGURE 13. and TABLE 3.
4. A correction for minimum wear and damage to the
Use the special tool to install the valve guides as shown
valve and valve seat can be done by a process called
in FIGURE 11. Apply clean engine oil to the valve “lapping”. When the valve seats are “lapped”, keep the
guide during installation. Install the valve guide so that valve seat as narrow as possible. Make sure all of the
it extends 13 mm (0.512 in) above the surface of the cyl- lapping compound is removed from the valve and valve
inder head. seat when the process is completed.

6
5. Damaged valve seats can be repaired with a cutter TABLE 3. VALVE CONTACT WIDTH
tool. See FIGURE 12. Repair the seats as follows:
VALVE STANDARD LIMIT
a. Use a cutter with 15°, 45°, and 75° blades. Install Intake 1.70 mm (0.067in) 2.2 mm (0.087 in)
the correct cutter into the valve seat that is to be Exhaust 2.0 mm (0.079 in) 2.5 mm (0.098 in)
repaired. See FIGURE 12. Carefully turn the cut-
ter in a clockwise direction. Remove only the e. Check the valve depth. The correct valve depth is
minimum metal to repair the valve seat. Keep the shown in TABLE 4. If the valve seat is badly
valve seat as narrow as possible. damaged or worn, replace the valve seat as de-
scribed in the following paragraphs.

TABLE 4. VALVE DEPTH

VALVE STANDARD LIMIT
1. CUTTER 1 Intake 1.1 mm (0.043 in) 1.6 mm (0.083 in)
Exhaust 1.1 mm (0.043 in) 1.6 mm (0.063 in)

6. If the valve seat can not be repaired so that the valve

depth is within the specifications, the valve seat must be
replaced. Replace the valve seat as follows:
a. Use an electric welder and weld a small bead on
the circumference of the valve seat. See
FIGURE 14. Make sure that you do not weld be-
FIGURE 12. CUTTER FOR VALVE SEATS tween the valve seat and the cylinder head.
b. Let the cylinder head cool for 5 to 15 minutes,
then use a small prybar or a screwdriver to re-
b. When the valve seat has been cut, remove the cut- move the valve seat.
ter and pilot. Clean the valve port area and re-
move any particles.
3 1
1 2
1
2
15 0
0
45

1. CYLINDER HEAD 75 0
2. VALVE SEAT
3. VALVE CONTACT 3
WIDTH 1. WELD BEAD 1. USE A SCREWDRIVER
2. VALVE SEAT TO REMOVE THE
FIGURE 13. VALVE SEAT SPECIFICATIONS 3. CYLINDER HEAD VALVE SEAT
FIGURE 14. VALVE SEAT REMOVAL
c. Use the “lapping” process to make sure the valve
and valve seat fit tightly together. c. Clean the bore for the valve seat.
d. Use a press to install a new valve seat. See
d. Check the width of the valve contact area on the
FIGURE 15.
valve seat. See FIGURE 13. The correct contact
width is shown in TABLE 3. Replace the valve e. Check the fit of the valve as described in the pro-
seat when the width is more than specifications. cedures above.

7

1
4 3
1. PRESS
2. ADAPTER 4. CYLINDER
3. VALVE SEAT HEAD
FIGURE 15. VALVE SEAT INSTALLATION
VALVE SPRINGS
1. Check the valve springs for damage.
2. Measure the free length of the valve springs. See
FIGURE 16. The standard length is 48.0 mm (1.89 in).
Replace the valve spring when the length is less than
47.1 mm (1.86 in).
3. Check the valve springs for being straight. Put the
spring against a square as shown in FIGURE 16. Re-
place the valve spring when the measurement is more
than 1.7 mm (0.067 in).
MEASURE
HERE
FIGURE 16. INSPECT THE VALVE SPRINGS
4. Use a valve spring tester to check the valve springs. A
typical tester is shown in FIGURE 17. Check the ten-
sion at the installed height of 38.9 mm (1.5 in). The cor-
8
rect tension is 296 N (67 lbf). Replace the valve spring
when the tension is less than 258 N (58 lbf).
FIGURE 17. CHECK VALVE SPRING TENSION
PUSH RODS
Put the push rod on a flat plate as shown in FIGURE 18.
Roll the push rod on the flat plate and check the variation
with a spacer gauge. If a push rod is more than 0.3 mm
(0.012 in) from straight, it must be straightened or re-
placed.
Check the ends of the push rod for wear and damage. Re-
place a worn or damaged push rod.
FIGURE 18. CHECK FOR A BENT PUSH ROD
Assembly
1. Use engine oil to lubricate the inner surface of the oil
seal for the valve stem. A special tool is available to in-
stall the oil seal on the valve guide. Install the oil seal on
the valve guide. See FIGURE 19.
2. Lubricate the valve stems with engine oil. Install the
valves in their correct positions in the cylinder head.

1. VALVE SEAL INSTALLATION TOOL
ISUZU PART NO. 5–8840–2033–0
FIGURE 19. INSTALLATION, OIL SEAL FOR
THE VALVE STEM
3. Install the seat washer, valve spring, and valve spring
cap on a valve stem. One end of the valve spring has a
spot of paint. See FIGURE 20. This end of the valve
spring must be installed next to the cylinder head.
1. PAINT SPOT
1
FIGURE 20. VALVE SPRING
4. Use the spring compressor to compress the valve
spring. See FIGURE 21. Install the retainers that hold
the valve spring assembly to the valve stem. Repeat step
2 through step 4 for all of the valves.
FIGURE 21. INSTALL THE RETAINERS FOR
THE VALVE SPRING
5. Assemble the parts of the rocker arm assembly as
shown in FIGURE 22. Make sure the largest oil hole in
the rocker arm shaft goes toward the fan end of the en-
gine. Apply engine oil to the parts during assembly.
Installation
1. Clean the surface of the cylinder head and the surface
of the cylinder block. Clean the top of the pistons.
2. The correct head gasket is determined by measuring
the fit of the piston to the cylinder block. Use the follow-
ing procedures to choose the correct head gasket:
9
 14

9
13

12

6 8 10

5
7

4
11 1. CAM FOLLOWER (TAPPET)
3 2. PUSH ROD
15 3. END PLUG
4. SNAP RING
16 5. ADJUSTMENT SCREW
6. JAM NUT
17 7. MOUNT, ROCKER SHAFT
8. WASHER
9. STUD
10. ROCKER ARM
2
11. WASHER
12. SPRING
18
13. ROCKER ARM SHAFT
14. CAPSCREW
15. VALVE KEEPER
16. RETAINER
1 19 17. VALVE SPRING
18. EXHAUST VALVE
19. INTAKE VALVE

FIGURE 22. ROCKER SHAFT AND VALVE ASSEMBLY

a. Use a dial indicator to measure the distance that
the piston extends above the cylinder block.
Make four measurements at each bore as shown
in FIGURE 23.
b. Use the difference between the measurements (1
minus 2), and (3 minus 4) to calculate the average
distance that the piston extends. Do these mea-
surements for all four cylinders to obtain the
maximum dimension.

10
 the top. Carefully align the cylinder head gasket and cyl-
1 inder head.

4. Lubricate the threads of the cylinder head bolts with

engine oil. Install and tighten the bolts in three steps.
Tighten the bolts to 49 N.m (36 lbf ft) in the sequence
shown in FIGURE 24. Use the sequence again and
2 tighten the bolts 60 to 75° more. Use the sequence a third
2 time and tighten the bolts 60 to 75° more.

17 13 5 4 12
1 16
9 8

1. DIAL INDICATOR
2. MEASURING 6 7 15
14
POINTS 2
18 10 3 11

12842 FRONT OF ENGINE

FIGURE 23. MEASURE THE PISTON HEIGHT FIGURE 24. TIGHTENING SEQUENCE FOR
THE CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS
c. Three different thicknesses or grades of head gas- 5. Lubricate the push rods with engine oil and then in-
kets are available. To determine the correct gas- stall them in the engine.
ket, use the specifications in TABLE 5.
6. Install the rocker arm assembly. Loosen the screws for
TABLE 5. CYLINDER HEAD THICKNESS adjusting the valve clearance. Tighten the bolts for the
GRADE AVERAGE PISTON GASKET rocker shaft mounts to 54 N.m (40 lbf ft). Tighten the
MARK HEIGHT THICKNESS bolts for the inner mounts first.
0 0.658–0.713 mm 1.60 mm 7. Install the glow plugs in the cylinder head. Tighten the
(0.026–0.028 in) (0.063 in)
glow plugs to 23 N.m (17 lbf ft). Install the glow plug
00 0.713–0.759 mm 1.65 mm connector.
(0.028–0.030 in) (0.065 in)
000 0.759–0.814 mm 1.70 mm 8. Install the fuel injectors in the cylinder head. Tighten
(0.030–0.032 in) (0.067 in) the injectors to 64 N.m (47 lbf ft).

9. Install a new gasket for the intake manifold. Install the

gasket so that the end with the sharp corners is toward
the fan end of the engine. Install the intake manifold.

10. Install a new gasket for the exhaust manifold. Install

the exhaust manifold. Tighten the capscrews for the ex-
haust manifold. Connect the exhaust pipe to the exhaust
GRADE MARKS 12842
manifold.

NOTE: The difference between the highest and lowest
measurements in piston heights must not be more than
1.00 mm (0.039 in).
3. Install the dowel pin in the cylinder block. Install the
cylinder head on to the cylinder block, with the marks at
11. Install the fuel lines. See FIGURE 25. Connect the
fuel injection lines to the fuel injectors.
NOTE: If the fuel injection pump is installed at this
step, install the fuel lines. If the fuel injection pump is
not installed, do this step after the fuel injection pump is
installed.

11
Install the support clips in their original positions so that
there is no stress on the fuel injection lines. A stress on
the fuel injection line can cause a break during opera-
tion.
13. Install the coolant pump. Tighten the capscrews for
the coolant pump to 19 N.m (14 lbf ft).
14. Install the coolant hoses to the thermostat housing
and coolant pump.

15. Adjust the valves as described in CHECKS AND

ADJUSTMENTS.

16. Install the rocker arm cover.

17. Install the front and rear engine lifting eyes.

18. Install the oil pipe from the fuel injection pump to the
cylinder block.
FIGURE 25. INSTALLATION OF THE FUEL
INJECTION LINES 19. Install the alternator and its adjustment bracket.
12. Install the thermostat housing to the cylinder head.
See FIGURE 26. 20. Install a new engine oil filter.

1. COVER 21. Install the oil pressure switch if it was removed.

2. GASKET
3. THERMOSTAT
4. GASKET 22. Connect the coolant hoses. Fill the cooling system
5. HOUSING with coolant.
6. COOLANT
TEMPERATURE 1
SENDING UNIT 23. Install the pulley for the cooling fan and the drive
7. TEMPERATURE belt. Install the cooling fan. Adjust the drive belt to the
SENSOR,
QUICK START 2 correct tension.

3 24. Install and connect the air cleaner.

4
TIMING GEAR CASE
6

Removal (See FIGURE 27.)

7 The engine is normally removed from the lift truck to re-

5 move the timing gear case. There are separate covers on
the timing gear case that can be removed to check the
FIGURE 26. THERMOSTAT HOUSING timing indicators.

12
 5
3
4
2

1. OIL SEAL
2. TIMING GEAR COVER
3. SEAL
4. DOWEL PIN
5. TIMING GEAR CASE
6. GASKET 1
7. INSPECTION COVER
8. SHAFT, IDLER GEAR “A”
9. IDLER GEAR “A”
10. RETAINER
11. CAPSCREW
12. SHAFT, IDLER GEAR “B”
13. IDLER GEAR “B” AND BEARING 6
14. RETAINER 9 7
15. CAPSCREW
16. OIL PIPE 10 8
17. WASHER 17
18. SPECIAL CAPSCREW
17

18 12

16 11 13
15

14

FIGURE 27. TIMING GEAR ARRANGEMENT

1. Use a puller to remove the crankshaft pulley. See
FIGURE 28. Use a block of wood next to the flywheel to
prevent the crankshaft from turning.
2. Remove the capscrews that hold the timing gear cover
to the timing gear case. Remove the timing gear cover.
3. Remove the capscrew and retainer for idler gear “B”.
Remove the idler gear and its shaft.
4. Remove the oil pipe from the case and idler gear “A”.
5. Remove the capscrews and retainer for idler gear “A”.
Remove the idler gear and shaft.

CAUTION
Do not turn the camshaft or the crankshaft when the
idler gears are removed and the valve mechanism is
installed. If either shaft is turned, damage will occur
to the valve mechanism. To prevent damage to the
valve mechanism, remove the rocker arm assembly
when working on the timing gears.
FIGURE 28. REMOVE THE CRANKSHAFT
NOTE: Before removing the camshaft, the oil pump
DAMPER PULLEY
must be removed. See the procedures for the Oil Pump

13
6. Remove the capscrew for the the camshaft gear. Care-
fully pull the camshaft timing gear from the camshaft.
Remove the capscrews and thrust plate from the cylin-
der block. Make sure the camshaft journal, lobes, and
bearing surfaces are not damaged during disassembly.
See the procedures for the Camshaft for additional in-
formation.
8. Remove the capscrews that hold the timing gear case
to the cylinder block. Remove the timing gear case and
gasket.
9. Remove the oil seal from the timing gear cover. See
FIGURE 30.
Installation

5 6 1. See FIGURE 27. Install the timing gear case (12) to

the cylinder block. Use a new gasket during installation.
Tighten the capscrews evenly to 20 N.m (15 lbf ft).

2. Install the key and the gear on the crankshaft. Make

4
sure the timing marks “XX” are showing. Use a piece of
tubing to push the gear completely against the shoulder.

3. See Camshaft, Installation procedures to install the

3 camshaft into the cylinder block. Install the thrust plate
and tighten the capscrews to 18 N.m (13 lbf ft). Install
the key and the camshaft timing gear. Make sure the tim-
1 2 ing marks “YY” are showing. Tighten the capscrew for
1. CRANKSHAFT GEAR the camshaft gear to 64 N.m (47 lbf ft).Check that the
2. IDLER GEAR “A” camshaft turns smoothly. Rotate the camshaft so that the
3. IDLER GEAR “B” “YY” mark on the camshaft timing gear is toward the
4. CAMSHAFT TIMING GEAR center axis of idler gear “A”.
5. CAVITY FOR COOLANT PUMP
6. OPENING FOR FUEL INJECTION PUMP
4. Install the idler gear shaft for idler gear “A”. Make
FIGURE 29. TIMING GEAR ARRANGEMENT sure the oil port is toward the top of the engine.

5. Turn the crankshaft so that the “XX” mark on the

7. If the crankshaft gear must be removed, use a puller to
crankshaft gear is toward the top of the engine.
remove the crankshaft gear. Remove the woodruff key
from the crankshaft.
6. Lubricate idler gear “A” with engine oil. Install idler
gear “A” so that the “X” and “Y” marks can be seen. As
idler gear “A” is installed, align the “X” mark with the
“XX” mark on the crankshaft gear, and align the “Y”
mark with the “YY” mark on the camshaft timing gear.
See FIGURE 31.

7. Install the retainer plate and the two capscrews for

idler gear “A”. Tighten the capscrews to 20 N.m (15 lbf
ft).

8. See FIGURE 31. Lubricate idler gear “B” with en-

gine oil. Install idler gear “B” on its shaft so that the “Z”
and “ZZ” marks on both timing gears are aligned. In-
stall the washer and capscrew on tining gear “B”. Tight-
FIGURE 30. REMOVE THE OIL SEAL
en the capscrew to 76 N.m (56 lbf ft).

14

YY
4
3
7
6 2
XX
1 5
1. CRANKSHAFT GEAR
2. IDLER GEAR “A”
3. IDLER GEAR “B”
4. CAMSHAFT GEAR
5. ALIGN X ON IDLER GEAR “A” WITH XX
ON THE CRANKSHAFT TIMING GEAR
6. ALIGN Y ON IDLER GEAR “A” WITH YY
ON THE CAMSHAFT TIMING GEAR
7. ALIGN Z ON IDLER GEAR “B” WITH ZZ
ON IDLER GEAR “A”
FIGURE 31. ALIGNMENT OF THE TIMING
GEARS
9. Install the oil pipe for the timing gear. Install the spe-
cial capscrew and pipe to the retainer for idler gear “A”
See FIGURE 27. Tighten the special capscrew to 13
N.m (9 lbf ft).
10. Install the crankshaft oil seal in the timing gear cov-
er. Lubricate the lip of the oil seal with engine oil. Use
the installation tool (Isuzu Part No. 5–8840–2061–0) to
install the oil seal in the timing gear cover. Install the oil
seal 1 mm (0.039 in) into the front of the timing gear
cover. See FIGURE 32.
1 1. CASE
2. OIL SEAL
2
1.0 mm
(0.039 in)
2
FIGURE 32. INSTALL THE CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL
11. Install the O–ring in the groove in the timing case
cover. Align the cover with the dowel pins, then install
the cover. Tighten the capscrews to 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)..
12. Align the crankshaft damper pulley with the key and
install the pulley. Be careful not to damage the seal. Use
a block to prevent the crankshaft from turning. Install
the capscrew and washer. Tighten the capscrew to 275
N.m (203 lbf ft).
CAMSHAFT AND CAM FOLLOWERS
Removal
See TIMING GEAR CASE, REMOVAL for informa-
tion about removal of the camshaft from the cylinder
block.
Inspection And Repairs
1. Before the camshaft is removed, use a dial indicator to
measure the amount of movement at the end of the cam-
shaft. The standard clearance is 0.08 mm (0.0032 in).
Replace the thrust plate when the movement is more
than 0.20 mm (0.0079 in).
2. Remove the camshaft timing gear. Remove the caps-
crew and washer. Use a puller to remove the camshaft
timing gear from the camshaft.
15
 1

2
3

6 1. CAMSHAFT
2. WOODRUFF KEY
3. CAPSCREW (2)
7
4. THRUST PLATE
5. CAMSHAFT TIMING GEAR
6. WASHER
7. CAPSCREW

FIGURE 33. CAMSHAFT ASSEMBLY

3. Remove the capscrews and the thrust plate. place the camshaft when the height of a lobe is less than
41.65 mm (1.6398 in).

1 5. Check the “run out” of the camshaft as shown in

FIGURE 35. Rotate the camshaft and look at the dial in-
dicator. The standard measurement for “run out” is 0.02
mm (0.008 in) or less. Replace the camshaft when the
“run out” is more than 0.10 mm (0.004 in).
1. CAMSHAFT
2. LOBE
3. JOURNAL
A 9740

2
B B

3 A
12631

FIGURE 34. CAMSHAFT MEASUREMENTS

9748

4. See FIGURE 34. Use a micrometer to measure the

camshaft journals. The correct measurement is 49.945
to 49.975 mm (1.9663 to 1.9675 in). Replace the cam-
shaft when any of the journals are less than 49.60 mm
(1.953 in). Measure the height of the camshaft lobes.
The correct measurement is 42.02 mm (1.6543 in). Re-
FIGURE 35. CAMSHAFT INSPECTION
6. See FIGURE 36. Measure the inside diameter of the
camshaft bearings. The standard measurement is 50.00
to 50.03 mm (1.9685 to 1.9696 in). Replace camshaft

16
bearings when the inside diameter is 50.08 mm (1.9716
in) or more. The maximum clearance between the bear-
ings and the camshaft is 0,12 mm (0.005 in). See
FIGURE 37. Replace the camshaft or bearings as neces-
sary.
FIGURE 36. CAMSHAFT BEARING
INSPECTION
CAUTION
During installation of the camshaft bearings, the oil
ports in the bearing must be aligned with the oil ports
in the cylinder block. If the ports are not correctly
aligned, the bearing surfaces will not be lubricated
and will fail.
1. CAMSHAFT BEARING TOOL
ISUZU PART NO. 5–8840–2038–0)
FIGURE 37. CAMSHAFT BEARING
REPLACEMENT
CAM FOLLOWERS (TAPPETS)
1. Keep the cam followers in an arrangement so that they
will be installed again in the same position in the cylin-
der block. Inspect the contact surface of the cam follow-
er for damage and wear. A cam follower will have a
smooth ring where it rubs on the camshaft lobe. A cam
follower with a damaged surface must be replaced. Re-
place a cam follower as necessary.
2. Measure the outside diameter of the cam followers as
shown in FIGURE 38. The correct measurement is
12.97 to 12.99 mm (0.510 to 0.511 in). Replace a cam
follower that has specifications less than 12.95 mm
(0.0509 in).
3. Check the clearance between the cam follower and
the bore in the cylinder block. Measure the diameter of
the hole for the cam follower in the cylinder block as
shown in FIGURE 39. The standard clearance is 0.03
mm (0.001 in). Install a new cam follower or cylinder
block if the clearance is more than 0.10 mm (0.004 in).
FIGURE 38. CAM FOLLOWER INSPECTION
FIGURE 39. CAM FOLLOWER BORE
INSPECTION
Installation
1. Lubricate the cam followers with engine oil and
install them in the cylinder block.
2. Lubricate the camshaft and bearings and carefully
install the camshaft.
3. Install the thrust plate fro the camshaft. Tighten the
capscrews for the thrust plate to 18 N.m (13 lbf ft).
Check that the camshaft rotates freely.
4. Align the camshaft timing gear with the woodruff key
and install the timing gear on the camshaft. Make sure
the timing marks (Y–Y) on the timing gear are showing.
Tighten the capscrew to 64 N.m (47 lbf ft).
17
5. Check the alignment of the timing marks as described
in the procedures for the Timing Case.
LUBRICATION SYSTEM
Oil Pump, Removal And Disassembly
(See FIGURE 40.)
1. Remove the dipstick. Drain the engine oil.
Oil Pump, Inspection
1. Remove the strainer assembly, the pump cover and
the outer rotor.
2. If the oil pump is worn so that the performance is de-
creased, the oil pump must be replaced. Check the end
clearance of the inner rotor. See FIGURE 41. If the
clearance is greater than 0.15 mm (0.006 in), replace the
rotor assembly.

2. Remove the oil sump.

3. Remove the oil pump with the oil tube from the cylin-
der block

2
4

5
FIGURE 41. CHECK THE END CLEARANCES
OF THE ROTOR
3

3. Check the clearances between the inner rotor and out-

er rotors. If the clearance is greater than 0.20 mm (.008
6 in), replace the rotor assembly. See FIGURE 42.

7
1

1. OIL TUBE 8
ASSEMBLY
2. O–RING
3. OIL PUMP BODY
4. PINION
5. ROLL PIN
6. INNER ROTOR
AND DRIVE
SHAFT 9
7. OUTER ROTOR FIGURE 42. CHECK THE CLEARANCE
8. COVER BETWEEN THE ROTORS
9. STRAINER
ASSEMBLY
4. Check the clearances between the outer rotor and the
FIGURE 40. OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY
pump body. See FIGURE 43. If the clearance is greater
than 0.40 mm (.016 in), replace the oil pump.

18

FIGURE 43. CHECK THE CLEARANCE
BETWEEN THE VANE AND PUMP BODY
5. Use a micrometer to measure the outer diameter of the
drive shaft as shown in FIGURE 44. Measure the inner
diameter of the pump body. If the clearance between the
drive shaft and the pump body is greater than 0.20 mm
(0.008 in), replace the oil pump.
FIGURE 44. CHECK THE ROTOR DRIVE
SHAFT
Oil Pump, Assembly And Installation
(See FIGURE 45.)
1. Install the drive shaft and rotor into the pump body.
2. Install the pinion on the drive shaft. Use a 5 mm (0.20
in) drill to make an aligned hole through the pinion and
drive shaft. Install the roll pin. Use a thread adhesive
(Hyster Part No. 226414 or Locktite 271) to help hold
the roll pin in the hole.
3. Install the cover.
4. Install the strainer assembly. Install the oil tube so
that it is loosely fastened to the oil pump.
FIGURE 45. INSTALLATION, OIL PUMP
5. Install the oil pump in the cylinder block. Use a new
O–ring on the oil tube. Connect the oil tube and tighten
the fittings.
6. Install the oil sump.
FIGURE 46. INSTALLATION, OIL SUMP
Oil Sump, Installation
1. Apply a liquid gasket to the arches of bearing cap No.
5 as shown FIGURE 46. Apply a liquid gasket to the
arches of the timing gear case as shown in FIGURE 46.
2. Install the gasket for the oil sump. Make sure the gas-
ket fits completely into the groove of bearing cap No. 5
and the corners where it joins the cylinder block. See
FIGURE 47.
3. Install the oil sump and tighten the capscrews. Tight-
en the capscrews in a sequence beginning at the middle
19
and working toward each end of the oil sump. Tighten
the capscrews to 19 N.m (14 lbf ft).
FIGURE 47. INSTALLATION, OIL SUMP
Oil Filter Assembly (See FIGURE 48.)
Replace the oil filter as described in the section, PERI-
ODIC MAINTENANCE. Change the oil filter at the
same time engine oil is changed. Use the correct oil ac-
cording to the specifications. Install a new filter car-
tridge. Apply clean oil to the gasket of the new filter car-
tridge. Turn the filter until the gasket touches, then
tighten 1/2 to 3/4 turn with your hand. Start the engine.
Check the area around the oil filter for leaks.
1
6 3. Use snap ring pliers to remove the snap rings at each
2 remove the piston pin as shown in FIGURE 49.
3
4
1. FILTER
CARTRIDGE
2. BODY, OIL FILTER 5. REGULATOR
3. O–RING VALVE
4. PLUG 6. GASKET
FIGURE 48. OIL FILTER ASSEMBLY
20
PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS
(See FIGURE 50.)
NOTE: See the sections on Cylinder Liners for the se-
lection and fitting of pistons to new cylinder liners.
Removal
1. Remove the cylinder head as described in “Cylinder
Head, Removal”.
2. Remove the oil sump. Remove the piston cooling
pipe.
3. Clean the carbon from the top of each cylinder bore.
4. Remove the bearing caps from the connecting rods.
Keep the bearings in their order in which they were in-
stalled. Keep each bearing cap with its connecting rod.
5. Push the piston and connecting rod assembly from the
top of the cylinder. Keep the piston and connecting rod
assemblies in an arrangement so that they can be in-
stalled in the engine again in the same order from which
they were removed.
Disassembly (See FIGURE 50.)
1. During disassembly of the piston and connecting rod
assemblies, keep each set of parts with its assembly. Put
a piston and connecting rod assembly in a vise with soft
jaws. Be careful that the assembly is not damaged in the
vise.
2. Use a piston ring expander to remove the piston rings.
end of the piston pin. Use a hammer and a brass driver to
9736
FIGURE 49. PISTON PIN, REMOVAL
 NOTE: If the cylinder liner is worn or damaged, check
6 the clearance between the piston and the cylinder liner
5
after the cylinder liner has been replaced.
1
4 Piston Rings, Inspection

1. Measure the end clearance of each piston ring as

shown in FIGURE 51. Install the piston ring into the
3
cylinder where it will be used. Use a thickness gauge to
2 measure the end clearance. Make sure the piston ring is
perpendicular to the cylinder wall when the end clear-
1 ance is measured. For the correct end clearance of the
piston rings, see TABLE 6. If the end clearance for any
of the piston rings is greater than the specifications, re-
place the piston ring.
7
TABLE 6. PISTON RING END CLEARANCE
8
RING STANDARD LIMIT
1st 0.20–0.35 mm 1.5 mm
(Top) (0.0079–0.0138 in) (0.0591 in)
2nd 0.37–0.52 mm 2.0 mm
(0.0146–0.0224 in) (0.0787 in)
3rd 0.20–0.40 mm 1.6 mm
(0.0079–0.0157 in) (0.0630 in)

9739

9 10 8
1. SNAP RING
2. PISTON PIN
3. PISTON
4. OIL CONTROL RING
5. COMPRESSION RING NO. 2
6. COMPRESSION RING NO. 1
7. CONNECTING ROD
8. BEARING HALF
9. BEARING CAP
10. NUT

FIGURE 50. PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD FIGURE 51. CHECK THE END CLEARANCE OF
ASSEMBLY THE PISTON RING

Pistons, Inspection And Repair 2. Measure the clearance between the piston ring and the
groove in the piston as shown in FIGURE 52. For the
Visually inspect the pistons for wear and cracks. Re- correct clearance of the piston rings in their grooves, see
place a piston that is worn or damaged. TABLE 7.

21
 TABLE 7. PISTON RING GROOVE Connecting Rods, Inspection And Repair
CLEARANCE 1. Clean and inspect the parts for wear and damage.
RING STANDARD LIMIT Check the alignment of the connecting rods (bend and
twist) with a test fixture. See TABLE 8.
1st 0.09–0.13 mm 0.15 mm
(Top) (0.003–0.005 in) (0.0059 in)
TABLE 8. CONNECTING ROD ALIGNMENT
2nd 0.03–0.07 mm 0.15 mm
(0.0012–0.0028 in) (0.0059 in) STANDARD LIMIT

3rd 0.03–0.07 mm 0.15 mm Bend per 0.08 mm 0.20 mm

(0.0012–0.0028 in) (0.0059 in) 100 mm (3.94 in) (0.0031 in) or less (0.0079 in)
Twist per 0.05 mm 0.15 mm
100 mm (3.94 in) (0.0020 in) or less (0.0059 in)

9738

FIGURE 52. CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE
PISTON RING AND THE GROOVE
Piston Pins, Inspection And Repair
1. Inspect the piston pins for cracks and wear. Measure
the diameter of the pin. The correct measurement is
33.995 to 34.000 mm (1.3384 to 1.3386 in). If the diam-
eter of the piston pin is less than 33.970 mm (1.3374 in)
replace the piston pin.
1. ALIGNMENT TOOL
2. Check the clearance between the bushing in the con-
necting rod and the piston pin as described in the proce-
dures for the Piston Pins. If the bushing is worn, use a
press to remove the bushing from the connecting rod.
Use the press to carefully install a new bushing. Use a
reamer to increase the inner diameter of the bushing to
the standard size for the piston pin.

2. Measure the inside diameter of the piston pin hole in

the connecting rod. The standard clearance is 0.008 to
0.020 in (0.0003 to 0.0008 in). If the clearance between
the piston pin and bushing is more than 0.05 mm (0.0020
in), replace the bushing or pin. If the bushing is worn,
use a press to remove the bushing from the connecting
rod. Use the press to carefully install a new bushing,
making sure the oil ports are aligned. Use a reamer to in-
crease the inner diameter of the bushing to the standard 9730

size for the piston pin.

3. Install the piston pin into the piston. If the pin rotates
smoothly, the clearance is normal. If there is resistance,
check the clearance. The standard clearance is 0.002 to
0.004 mm (0.0008 to 0.0016 in). If the clearance be-
tween the piston pin and piston is more than 0.04 mm
(0.0016 in), replace the worn parts.
FIGURE 53. CHECK THE CLEARANCE
BETWEEN THE CONNECTING ROD AND THE
CRANKSHAFT
3. Install the connecting rod in its position on the crank-
shaft. Check the axial clearance between the connecting
rod and the crankshaft as shown in FIGURE 53. The
standard clearance is 0.230 mm (0.0091 in). Replace the

22
connecting rod when the clearance is more than 0.35 Pistons And Connecting Rods, Assembly
mm (0.0144 in). And Installation
Special Tools: Piston ring expander
New Pistons, Selection Piston installation tool
(piston ring compressor)

CAUTION
The correct piston grade must be selected to keep the
clearances correct between the cylinder liner and
piston or the engine will be damaged.
If a new piston must be installed because of damage or a
new cylinder liner was installed, the following proce-
dure must be used to select the correct piston:
CAUTION
The engine will be damaged if the pistons and con-
necting rods are installed in the wrong direction.
1. Assemble the connecting rod and the piston. Make
sure that the connecting rod is installed in the piston as
shown in FIGURE 55. Hold the connecting rod in a vise
while the piston is installed.

a. Measure the outside diameter of the piston as

1
shown in FIGURE 54. The measurement is made
on the piston skirt approximately 71 mm (2.8 in)
1. THE PISTON MUST
below the top of the piston. The piston sizes are BE INSTALLED IN THE
shown in TABLE 9. ENGINE WITH THE
NOTCH MARK
TOWARD THE
COOLANT PUMP
2. THE “ISUZU” CAST
MARK MUST BE 2
INSTALLED IN THE
SAME DIRECTION AS
THE NOTCH MARK
ON THE PISTON.

FIGURE 55. PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

71 mm ARRANGEMENT
(2.8 in)

FIGURE 54. MEASURE THE PISTON WARNING

TABLE 9. PISTON SIZES
GRADE OUTSIDE DIAMETER
MARK
A 95.365–95.374 mm (3.7545–3.7549 in)
B 95.375–95.384 mm (3.7549–3.7553 in)
C 95.385–95.394 mm (3.7553–3.7557 in)
D 95.395–95.404 mm (3.7557–3.7561 in)
b. See the procedures for Cylinder Liners to make
sure the piston is installed in the correct bore.
Hot parts. Wear protective clothing and gloves to
prevent burns.
2. Use snap ring pliers to install one of the snap rings in
the piston. Heat the piston in an oil bath to approximate-
ly 77°C (170°F) for easier installation of the piston pin.
Push the piston pin into the piston and connecting rod.
Install the other snap ring. Check that the connecting rod
moves smoothly on the piston pin.
3. Use a piston ring expander to install the piston rings as
shown in FIGURE 56. During installation, make sure
the mark on the piston rings is toward the top of the pis-
ton. Make sure there is no gap on either side of the ex-
pander coil before the oil control ring is installed. Make

23
sure the piston rings will move smoothly in their
grooves after they are installed. CAUTION
The number on the bearing cap must be the same
number as the connecting rod. The arrow marks of
all the bearing caps must point toward the fan end of
the engine.

NOTE: See the section “How To Check The Clearance

Between The Crankshaft Bearings And Their Journals”
when the bearing for the connecting rod is installed.

7. Install the bearing in the bearing cap for the connect-

ing rod. Apply clean engine oil to the bearing surface
and then install the bearing and bearing cap on the con-
1. OIL CONTROL RING
necting rod. Tighten the nuts 29 N.m (22 lbf ft). For the
2. COMPRESSION RING NO. 2
3. COMPRESSION RING NO.1 second step, rotate the nuts 45 to 60° more. Rotate the
crankshaft to make sure it moves freely.
FIGURE 56. ASSEMBLY OF THE PISTON
RINGS 8. Install the piston cooling pipe. See FIGURE 58.
Tighten the relief valve to 29 N.m (22 lbf ft). Tighten the
4. Apply clean engine oil to the piston rings and the jour- M8 capscrews to 19 N.m (14 lbf ft). Tighten the M6 cap-
nals for the connecting rods. When a piston is installed screws to 8 N.m (69 lbf in).
into its cylinder, arrange the gaps in the piston rings so
that they are 120° part from each other. See FIGURE 57. CAUTION
After installation of the oil pipes, check that there is
FAN END OF ENGINE clearance between the oil pipes and the pistons. Ro-
tate the crankshaft slowly to check the clearances

C A
1
2
4 3

B
A = GAP FOR OIL CONTROL RING
B = GAP FOR COMPRESSION RING NO. 2
C = GAP FOR COMPRESSION RING NO.1
4
FIGURE 57. ARRANGEMENT OF THE PISTON
RINGS ON THE PISTON

5. Install the upper half of the bearing in the connecting

rod. Make sure the parts are clean. Rotate the crankshaft
so that the bearing journal for piston being installed is at
BDC.
1. RELIEF VALVE
6. Apply a thin coat of molybdenum disulfide grease to 2. OIL PIPE
the piston skirts. Use a piston ring compressor and in- 3. CYLINDER BLOCK
stall the piston assemblies into their correct cylinders. 4. CAPSCREW
During installation, the small mark on the top of the pis-
ton must be toward the end of the engine with the cool- FIGURE 58. ARRANGEMENT FOR COOLING
ing fan. See FIGURE 55. or FIGURE 57. OIL PIPES

24
9. Install the oil pump. See “Oil Pump, Assembly And
Installation” and FIGURE 45.
10. Install the oil sump. See “Oil Sump, Installation”
and FIGURE 46.
4. Remove the bearing caps for the connecting rods.
5. Remove the capscrews for the main bearings caps as
shown in the sequence in FIGURE 60.

11. Install the cylinder head as described in “Cylinder

Head, Installation”. 3 2
7 10 6

CRANKSHAFT AND MAIN BEARINGS

(See FIGURE 59.)
4 8 9 5 1

Crankshaft, Removal

1. Remove the flywheel and flywheel housing. See FIGURE 60. REMOVE THE CRANKSHAFT
“Flywheel, Removal”.
6. Before removing the crankshaft, measure the clear-
2. Remove the timing gear case as described in “Timing
ance between the crankshaft and thrust bearings at the
Gear Case, Removal”.
middle main bearing location. See FIGURE 61. Move
the crankshaft fully forward before making the mea-
surement. The standard clearance is 0.10 mm (0.0039
7 in). The maximum amount of clearance (axial clear-
6
ance) is 0.30 mm (0.0118 in). If the amount of axial
8
clearance is greater than the specification, install new
5
thrust bearings.
3
4
1 2

10 9749
1. CAPSCREW
2. WASHER
3. PULLEY FIGURE 61. CHECK THE CLEARANCE
4. TIMING GEAR 8. CRANKSHAFT BETWEEN THE CRANKSHAFT AND THRUST
5. KEY 9. MAIN BEARING BEARINGS
6. MAIN BEARING (LOWER)
(UPPER) 10. MAIN BEARING
7. THRUST BEARING CAP
7. Remove the crankshaft. Keep the main bearings for
FIGURE 59. CRANKSHAFT ARRANGEMENT the crankshaft in their correct order.

8. If necessary. use a puller to remove the crankshaft

3. Remove the oil sump. Remove the oil pump. Remove timing gear as shown in FIGURE 62. Remove the
the cooling oil pipes. woodruff key from the crankshaft.

25
 d. Wait approximately 30 to 40 seconds. If the test
area becomes the color of copper, the nitrided
surface is worn and the crankshaft must be re-
placed. If the test surface does not change color,
the nitrided surface is good.

1. Carefully apply a drop of the test solution to the

surface of the bearing journal or other surface to
be inspected.
2. Do not apply the test solution to any surface
within approximately 10 mm (0.4 in) of an oil port.

1
FIGURE 62. CRANKSHAFT TIMING GEAR, 2
REMOVAL

Crankshaft, Inspection And Repair

1. Carefully clean the crankshaft. There must not be any
oil on the surfaces to be inspected.
2. Visually inspect the crankshaft for wear, cracks or
other damage. Replace the crankshaft if it has cracks. In- FIGURE 63. CHECK THE NITRIDED SURFACE
spect the oil seal surfaces for wear and damage OF THE CRANKSHAFT
NOTE: The surface of the crankshaft has been hard- e. Use steam to clean the test solution immediately
ened by a process called “tufftrided” (a nitriding treat- after the test. The test solution will cause corro-
ment) to increase its surface strength. Worn or damaged sion and damage the crankshaft if it is not re-
journal surfaces of the crankshaft can not be repaired by moved immediately after the test.
grinding. 4. Check the crankshaft as shown in FIGURE 64. Rotate
the crankshaft one turn and check the reading on the dial
3. The following procedure can be used to check the ni-
indicator. The standard reading is 0.05 mm (0.002 in). If
trided surface of the crankshaft:
the difference between the highest and the lowest read-
a. Prepare a test solution of 5 to 10% solution of am- ing is more than 0.08 mm (0.0031 inch), repair or re-
monium cuprous chloride dissolved in distilled place the crankshaft.
water.
b. This procedure will not give correct results if
there is any oil on the surfaces to be inspected.
Hold the surface to be tested as level as possible
to prevent the test solution from flowing from the
small test area.
c. See FIGURE 63. Carefully apply a drop of the
test solution to the surface to be inspected. Do not 9734

apply the test solution to any surface within ap-

proximately 10 mm (0.4 in) of an oil port. FIGURE 64. CRANKSHAFT INSPECTION

26
 Crankshaft Bearing Selection
No. 1 No. 2 No.3 No.4 No.5
1. When installing new main bearings for the crank-
shaft, be sure to check the size marks. There are size
marks on the cylinder block that indicate the bore size
for the main bearings. There are also size marks on the
crankshaft to indicate the bearing journal diameters. For
the location of these marks, see FIGURE 65. For the di-
mensions of the size marks, see TABLE 11.
1 2 1 1 2
2. Use a micrometer to measure the journals for the bear-
MAIN BEARING BORE SIZE MARKS
ings of the crankshaft. Make the measurements at the
positions shown in FIGURE 66. The correct measure-
No. 1 No. 2 No.5 ments are shown in TABLE 10.

TABLE 10. CRANKSHAFT JOURNAL SIZES

1 2 2 1 3 ITEM STANDARD LIMIT
MAIN 69.917–69.932 mm 69.91 mm
JOURNAL (2.7526–2.7532 in) (2.7524in)
No.3 No.4
ROD 52.915–52.930 mm 52.90 mm
MAIN JOURNAL DIAMETER JOURNAL (2.0833–2.0839 in) (2.0843 in)
SIZE MARKS
WEAR 0.05 mm (0.0020 in) 0.08 mm
FIGURE 65. CRANKSHAFT SIZE MARKS LIMIT (0.0031 in)

TABLE 11. CRANKSHAFT SIZE MARKS

MAIN BEARING MAIN BEARING CRANKSHAFT CLEARANCE
BORE DIAMETER JOURNAL SIZE BEARING
G SIZE
S BETWEEN BEARING
G
MARK AND JOURNAL
SIZE INSIDE DIAMETER SIZE OUTSIDE
MARK MARK DIAMETER
1 or 69.927–69.932 mm BLACK 0.035–0.061 mm
(2.7530–2.7532 in) (0.0014–0.0024 in)
1 73.987–74.000 mm 2 or 69.922–69.927 mm 0.032–0.058 mm
(2.9129–2.9134 in) (2.7528–2.7530 in) BLUE 0.0013–0.0023 in)
3 or 69.917–69.922 mm 0.037–0.063 mm
(2.7526–2.7528 in) 0.0015–0.0025 in)
1 or 69.927–69.932 mm 0.031–0.056 mm
(2.7530–2.7532 in) GREEN (0.0012–0.0022 in)
2 73.975–73.987 mm 2 or 69.922–69.927 mm 0.036–0.048 mm
(2.9124–2.9129 in) (2.7528–2.7530 in) 0.0014–0.0019 in)

3 or 69.917–69.922 mm BLACK 0.033–0.058 mm

(2.7526–2.7528 in) 0.0013–0.0023 in)

27
 ened to their final torque or there will be an error in the
measurement.

6. Remove the main bearing cap. The Plastigage will be

compressed and wider and will adhere to either the main
bearing or its journal. See FIGURE 68. Use the scale on
the envelope for the Plastigage to measure the width of
the plastic at its widest point. The scale will indicate the
clearance in millimetres or thousandths of an inch.

1
1. MEASURING
1 POINTS
1

1 1

1
FIGURE 67. PLASTIGAGE ON A BEARING
JOURNAL
FIGURE 66. CRANKSHAFT MEASUREMENTS
7. If the clearance is greater than the specifications, se-
How To Check The Clearance Between The lect a new a bearing set and install it. Measure the clear-
Crankshaft Bearings And Their Journals ance again. If the clearance can not meet specifications
the crankshaft must be replaced.
1. Use Plastigage or equivalent to check the clearance.
The procedure is similar for both connecting rod bear-
ings and main bearings. If the engine has been removed
from the lift truck put the engine so that the crankshaft is
up. The weight of the crankshaft must be against the up-
per bearing half so that the total clearance can be mea-
sured correctly. If the engine is still in the lift truck, the
crankshaft must have a support to remove any additional
clearance between the upper bearing half and its journal.

2. All main bearing caps must be installed and their

capscrews tightened to the specifications.
3. Check the rear main bearing first. Remove the cap for
the rear main bearing. The procedure for checking the
clearance of the other bearings is similar.
4. Clean the oil from the bearing half and journal to be
checked. Put a piece of Plastigage across the full width
of the bearing journal as shown in FIGURE 67. Do not
rotate the crankshaft when the Plastigage is between the
main bearing and its journal.
5. Install the main bearing cap and tighten the capscrews
to 167 N.m (123 lbf ft). The capscrews must be tight-
FIGURE 68. MEASURE THE PLASTIGAGE
ON A BEARING JOURNAL
8. See TABLE 11. If the clearance is within specifica-
tions, lubricate the bearing with engine oil and install the
main bearings and bearing caps. Tighten the capscrews
on the main bearing caps to the correct specifications.
9. Turn the crankshaft to make sure it rotates smoothly.
Crankshaft, Installation
1. Before installation of the crankshaft, make sure all the
passages for oil in the crankshaft are clean.

28
NOTE: See the following section “How To Check The
Clearance Between The Crankshaft Bearings And Their
Journals” when the crankshaft is installed.
2. Clean the main bearings. Install the main bearings in
the cylinder block. The upper main bearings have an oil
passage and an oil groove. The lower bearing half has a
smooth surface. Apply clean engine oil to the surface of
the bearings.
3. Carefully install the crankshaft.
4. Install the thrust bearings at the No. 3 main bearing
location. Make sure that the oil grooves in the thrust
bearings are toward the crankshaft. See FIGURE 69.
Push one end of the thrust bearing until both ends are
even with the surface of the crankcase.
2
2 bearing cap must be even with the surface of the cylinder
1 block. Tighten the capscrews in several steps in the se-
1. THRUST BEARING
2. OIL GROOVES (THE OIL GROOVES
MUST BE INSTALLED TOWARD THE
THRUST SURFACE OF THE
CRANKSHAFT)
FIGURE 69. INSTALLATION OF THE THRUST
WASHERS
CAUTION
It is very important that the thrust bearings are in-
stalled correctly. If they are installed wrong, the
crankshaft will be damaged because it will not re-
ceive correct lubrication. Install the thrust bearings
so that the oil grooves are toward the thrust surface
of the crankshaft.
5. Install the main bearings into the bearing caps. Apply
clean engine oil to the surface of the bearings and install
the bearing caps. The arrow marks of all the bearing
caps must point toward the fan end of the engine.
6. Install the gasket and apply silicon adhesive to the
cylinder block at the No. 5 main bearing as shown in
FIGURE 70.
FIGURE 70. APPLY SEALANT FOR THE NO. 5
MAIN BEARING
7. During installation, adjust the position of the No. 1
and No. 5 main bearing caps. The outer surface of each
quence shown in FIGURE 71. Tighten the capscrews
for the bearing caps to 167 N.m (123 lbf ft).
8 9
4 1 5
7 3 2 6 10
FIGURE 71. INSTALL THE CRANKSHAFT
8. Install the oil seal in the groove of the No. 5 main bear-
ing cap. Use a tool to push the seal into position as
shown in FIGURE 72. After installation, check that the
seal is fully against its seat.
9. Install the key in the crankshaft. Align the slot in
crankshaft timing gear with the key. Install the crank-
shaft timing gear. Make sure the timing marks X–X are
toward the outside.
29
 2. Remove the flywheel housing and the braces.
12.2–12.8 mm
(0.480–504 in)
4 Ring Gear, Replacement

WARNING
Wear eye protection for this operation to prevent eye
injury from metal chips. You will be using a hammer
and chisel to break the ring gear.
3
2. CRANKSHAFT
1 2
3. ADAPTER Before the ring gear is removed, check the position of
1. OIL SEAL 4. TOOL the chamfer on the teeth.
FIGURE 72. INSTALL REAR SEAL
1. See FIGURE 73. Use a hammer and chisel to break
10. Install the timing gear case as described in “Timing
the ring gear. Make sure that you do not damage the fly-
Gear Case, Installation”.
wheel.
11. Install the connecting rods as described in “Connect-
ing Rods, Assembly And Installation”.
12. Install the oil pump as described in “Oil Pump, As-
sembly And Installation”. Install the oil sump as de-
scribed in “Oil Sump, Installation”.
13. Install the flywheel housing and the flywheel.

FLYWHEEL AND RING GEAR

Flywheel, Removal (See FIGURE 74.)
1. Remove the capscrews for the flywheel, then remove FIGURE 73. RING GEAR REMOVAL
the flywheel.

2
5
3

1. FLYWHEEL HOUSING
2. FLYWHEEL
5 3. SUPPORT PLATE
4. DRIVE PLATE
5. BRACE

FIGURE 74. FLYWHEEL AND HOUSING

30
 4 1. FLYWHEEL HOUSING
3 3 2. SPECIAL BOLT AND NUT,
1
2 46 N.m (34 lbf ft)
4 3. CAPSCREWS TO cylinder block
4 (M10), 55 N.m (41 lbf ft)
4. CAPSCREWS TO cylinder block
(M12), 94 N.m (69 lbf ft)

TIGHTENING SEQUENCE

12767

5 5. CAPSCREWS TO BRACES,
5 98 N.m (72 lbf ft)
5 5 6. FLYWHEEL CAPSCREWS,
120 N.m (89 lbf ft)
6

FIGURE 75. FLYWHEEL AND HOUSING

2. The ring gear must be heated before it can be installed en the capscrews to 120 N.m (89 lbf ft) as shown
on the flywheel. Use an oven that has a temperature con- in the sequence in FIGURE 75.
trol. Make sure that the ring gear is not heated to more
than 200°C (390°F). CYLINDER BLOCK AND CYLINDER
LINERS (See FIGURE 76.)
WARNING
Hot parts. Wear protective clothing and gloves to
Cylinder Liners, Inspection
prevent burns.

3. Install the ring gear on the flywheel. Make sure that NOTE: The cylinder block was marked at the factory to
the chamfer on the teeth is in the correct direction to- indicate the correct liner sizes. Check for the marks dur-
ward the starter. ing inspection.

Flywheel, Installation (See FIGURE 75.)
1. Install the flywheel housing and flywheel as follows:
a. If the flywheel housing was removed, install it
on the engine. Install the capscrews and bolt.
Tighten the special bolt (2) and nut first. Tighten
the nut to 46 N.m (34 lbf ft). Tighten the other
capscrews as shown in FIGURE 75.
b. Install the flywheel on the crankshaft. Apply an
adhesive sealant on the threads of the capscrews,
then install the capscrews for the flywheel. Tight-
Inspect the cylinder liner for wear and damage. Measure
the inside diameter of each cylinder liner to find the
amount of wear. Do the measurement of the liner at the
area that is approximately 20 mm (0.8 inch) below the
surface of the cylinder block. See FIGURE 77. Measure
the diameter in a minimum of two directions: (X—X)
perpendicular to the axis of the crankshaft and (Y—Y)
parallel to the axis of the crankshaft. The correct liner
sizes are shown in TABLE 13. If the inside diameter of
the cylinder liner is more than the specifications, replace
the cylinder liner.

31
 1. CYLINDER LINER 1
2. CYLINDER BLOCK
9732
FIGURE 76. CYLINDER BLOCK AND LINERS
Replacement Of A Cylinder Liner
NOTE: The cylinder liners have a chrome surface. Do
not try to repair a cylinder liner that has damage. A dam-
aged cylinder liner must be replaced.
20 mm
(0.80 in)
FIGURE 77. MEASURE THE BORE OF THE
CYLINDER LINER
Special Tools: Cylinder liner removal tool,
Isuzu Part No. 5–8840–2304–0
Cylinder liner installation tool,
Isuzu Part No. 5–8840–2313–0
1. To remove the cylinder liner, install the remover tool
as shown in FIGURE 78. Rotate the handle to pull the
liner from the cylinder block.
32
1. CYLINDER LINER REMOVER,
ISUZU PART NO. 5–8840–2304–0
FIGURE 78. CYLINDER LINER REMOVAL
2. Before installation of the cylinder liners, check the
surface of the cylinder block for distortion. Make the
measurements at the positions shown in FIGURE 79. If
the amount of distortion is more than 0.2 mm (0.008 in),
replace the cylinder block.
9744
A
E F
C D
B
FIGURE 79. CHECK THE SURFACE OF THE
CYLINDER BLOCK FOR DISTORTION
3. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder block
where the replacement cylinder liner will be installed. A
grade of cylinder liner will be selected according to this
measurement. Measure the diameter at W—W, X—X,
Y—Y, and Z—Z as shown in FIGURE 80. Make the
measurements at approximately 98 mm (3.9 in) below
the surface of the cylinder block. Calculate the average
value of the four measurements to find the correct cylin-
der bore. This measurement will be used with the mea- 5. Carefully clean the bore in the cylinder block where
surement in step 4 to select the correct grade of cylinder the cylinder liner will be installed. Make sure the tools
liner. and press are ready before installation of the cylinder
liner is begun.

TABLE 12. CYLINDER LINER

LINER BORE DIAMETER LINER DIAMETER
GRADE (AVERAGE) (AVERAGE)
A 97.001–97.010 mm 97.011–97.020 mm
(3.8189–3.8193 in) (3.8193–3.8197 in)
B 97.011–97.020 mm 97.021–97.030 mm
(3.8193–3.8197 in) (3.8197–3.8201 in)
C 97.021–97.030 mm 97.031–97.040 mm
(3.8197–3.8201 in) (3.8201–3.8205 in)
D 97.031–97.040 mm 97.041–97.050 mm
FIGURE 80. MEASURE THE CYLINDER (3.8201–3.8205 in) (3.8205–3.8209 in)
BLOCK DIAMETER
6. Insert the cylinder liner in its bore in the cylinder
4. Make an X—X and Y—Y measurement at three block. Use a press and the special installation tool to in-
points on the cylinder liner as shown in FIGURE 81. stall the cylinder liner. See FIGURE 82. Make sure the
The following measuring points are below the upper alignment between the cylinder liner and the cylinder
surface of the cylinder liner: block is correct during installation. Use the press to ap-
point 1 = 20 mm (0.79 in) ply 4900 N (1100 lbf) to install the cylinder liner in the
point 2 = 90 mm (3.54 in) bore. Use the press to apply 24 500 N (5513 lbf) to finish
point 3 = 160 mm (6.30 in) installation of the cylinder liner in the cylinder block.

1. INSTALLATION TOOL, 9731

ISUZU PART NO. 5–8840–2313–0

FIGURE 82. CYLINDER LINER INSTALLATION

FIGURE 81. MEASURE THE OUTSIDE
DIAMETER OF THE CYLINDER LINER
Calculate the average value of the six measurements to
find the correct grade of cylinder liner. The grades of
cylinder liners are shown in TABLE 12.
7. Measure the position of the cylinder liner. The cylin-
der liner can extend 0.10 mm (0.004 in) above the sur-
face of the cylinder block. See FIGURE 83. The differ-
ence in the height of adjacent cylinder liners must be less
than 0.03 mm (0.0012 in).

33

9728
FIGURE 83. MEASURE THE CYLINDER LINER
POSITION
8. Measure the bore of the cylinder liner after it is
installed. Make the measurements at a point 20 mm
(0.80 in) from the top of the cylinder block. Make mea-
surements in two directions; in line with the crankshaft
and in the thrust direction. See FIGURE 77. Use these
measurements when choosing pistons.
TABLE 13. CYLINDER LINER SIZES
GRADE INSIDE DIAMETER
MARK (PISTON BORE)
A 95.421–95.430 mm (3.7567–3.7571 in)
B 95.431–95.440 mm (3.7571–3.7575 in)
C 95.441–95.450 mm (3.7575–3.7579 in)
D 95.451–95.460 mm (3.7579–3.7583 in)
COOLING SYSTEM (See FIGURE 84.)
Coolant Pump, Removal
1. Drain the cooling system
2. Remove the drive belt, the fan, and the pulley.
3. Remove the hoses from the coolant pump.
4. Remove the coolant pump from the engine.
34
Coolant Pump, Disassembly
(See FIGURE 84.)
CAUTION
Do not use a hammer to disassemble parts of the
coolant pump. Some parts are cast iron and can be
broken if they are hit with a hammer.
1. Remove the cover (10) and gasket (9) from the pump
body (5).
2. Use a press and adapter or a special puller (Hyster Part
No. 368758) to remove the hub (1).
3. Remove the set screw (7) that holds the bearing unit in
the pump body.
4. Use a press to push the shaft from the impeller (4) and
the seal (6).
Coolant Pump, Assembly And Installation
(See FIGURE 84.)
1. Install the bearing unit (2) so that the holes for the set
screw are aligned. Install the set screw (7).
2. Install the seal (4). Apply a thin coat of liquid sealant
to the outer circumference of the seal during installa-
tion.
3. Use a press to install the impeller (8). The clearance
between the impeller and the pump body must be 0.3 to
0.6 mm (0.012 to 0.024 inch).
4. Install the gasket and cover (10).
5. Install the hub (1). Use a press to push the hub on the
shaft.
6. Install the coolant pump and gasket on the cylinder
block. Tighten the capscrews to 20 N.m (15 lbf ft).
7. Adjust the tension of the drive belt as described in the
section PERIODIC MAINTENANCE.
Thermostat, Replacement (See FIGURE 84.)
1. Drain the cooling system so that the coolant level is
below the thermostat position and disconnect the top
hose from the outlet connection.
2. Remove the capscrews and remove the outlet connec-
tion.
3. Remove the thermostat.
 1. HUB
2. BEARING UNIT 11
12
3. DEFLECTOR 10
4. SEAL
5. PUMP BODY 7 8 9
6. WASHER 15
7. SETSCREW 6
8. IMPELLER 16
9. GASKET 5
10. COVER 17

3 4
2
13
1
18
19
14

11. SCREW 16. THERMOSTAT

12. GASKET 17. HOUSING
13. FITTING 18. DRIVE BELT 20
14. PLUG 19. PULLEY
15. OUTLET 20. SPACER

FIGURE 84. COOLING SYSTEM

4. Make sure that the surfaces for the joint in the outlet
are clean. Install a new thermostat in the housing.
5. Use a new gasket and install the outlet connection.
Tighten the capscrews to 20 N.m (15 lbf ft).
6. Connect the top hose and fill the cooling system.
FUEL SYSTEM
NOTE: Special tools and training are needed to repair
the fuel injection pump. A fuel injection pump is nor-
mally sent to an authorized repair station if repairs are
necessary. Fuel injectors also require special equipment
and training for repair. Most users have a special repair
service do this work. The repair of the fuel injection
pump and the fuel injectors is not described in this
section.
The solenoid valve is controlled by the ignition switch.
When the ignition switch is turned to ON, the coil in the
solenoid valve is energized. The solenoid valve opens to
permit fuel to flow into the pressure chamber for the
plunger (2). When the ignition switch is turned to OFF,
the solenoid valve closes and stops the flow of fuel. The
solenoid valve permits the engine to be stopped quickly
when the ignition switch is turned to OFF.
The drive shaft (2) is turned by the gear train in the en-
gine. The fuel pump (3) is a rotary vane pump that pulls
fuel from the fuel tank through the water separator. The
pressure of the fuel oil from the fuel pump increases
when the speed of the drive shaft increases. The regula-
tor valve controls the pressure of the fuel oil to the speci-
fications set by the manufacturer.

Description And Operation (See FIGURE 85.)

The parts of the fuel system include the fuel tank, injec-
tion pump and governor, fuel filter, and fuel injectors. A
basic diagram of the fuel system is shown in
FIGURE 85.
The overflow valve (6) in the injection pump is a by–
pass valve that permits some fuel oil to return to the fuel
tank. The overflow valve keeps the fuel oil at a constant
pressure in the plunger chamber so that the fuel flow to
the fuel injectors is even.

35
 5
6
4

1. FUEL INJECTION PUMP 8 7

2. DRIVE SHAFT
3. FUEL PUMP
(OUT OF POSITION) 3
4. FUEL FILTER
5. THROTTLE LEVER
6. OVERFLOW VALVE
7. FUEL INJECTOR
8. SOLENOID VALVE
9. FUEL TANK

2 1

9
12627

FIGURE 85. FUEL SYSTEM

A control sleeve slides on the plunger and partially from the timing gear case so that the drive gear is disen-
opens a passage in the plunger to control the amount of gaged from the timing gear train.
fuel oil sent to the fuel injectors. This control sleeve is
controlled by both the control lever (5) and the mechani- Installation
cal governor. The control lever (5) is connected to the
throttle pedal for the lift truck. NOTE: The timing gears must be correctly installed in
the engine before the fuel injection pump is installed. If
FUEL INJECTION PUMP the timing gear cover is removed, check the timing
marks as shown in FIGURE 86.
Removal
1. Disconnect the battery cables at the battery.
1
2. Remove clamps as necessary so that the fuel lines are
not bent. Remove the fuel line between the fuel filter and
the fuel injection pump.

3. Remove the fuel lines from the fuel injection pump

and the fuel injectors that returns fuel to the fuel tank.

4. Disconnect the throttle cable from the control lever on 2

the fuel injection pump.

5. See FIGURE 89. Remove the access cover for the

timing of the fuel injection pump on the timing gear cov-
er. Rotate the engine to align the “O” mark (2) on the
gear with the pointer (1). 1. TIMING GEAR, FUEL INJECTION PUMP
2. IDLER GEAR “B”
6. Remove the six capscrews that hold the fuel injection
pump to the engine. Move the fuel injection pump away FIGURE 86. ALIGNMENT OF TIMING GEARS

36
 CAUTION
Do not turn the crankshaft or the camshaft if the tim-
ing gears have been removed and the valve mecha-
nism is installed. If either shaft is turned, damage
will occur to the valve mechanism. To prevent dam-
age to the valve mechanism, remove the rocker arm
assembly when working on the timing gears.
1
NOTE: If the engine is installed in the lift truck, the let-
ters on the timing gears can be difficult to see to align the 3
position of the gears. Some service people use a light 2
and a mirror to see the letters on the timing gears.
1. ADAPTER PLATE
2. FUEL INJECTION PUMP
3. ALIGNMENT MARKS
1. See FIGURE 87. Remove the access cover for the
camshaft timing on the timing gear cover. Slowly turn FIGURE 88. FUEL INJECTION PUMP
the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (1) with the ALIGNMENT
“O” mark (2) on the camshaft gear.
3. See FIGURE 89. Remove the access cover for the
timing of the fuel injection pump on the timing gear cov-
er. Put a thin coat of liquid sealant on both surfaces of the
1 2 gasket that is installed between the adapter for the fuel
injection pump and the timing gear case. Install the fuel
injection pump on the timing gear case. Align the “O”
mark (2) on the gear with the pointer (1) as the fuel injec-
tion pump is installed.

1. POINTER
2. MARK, CAMSHAFT
TIMING GEAR

FIGURE 87. ALIGNMENT, CAMSHAFT TIMING

GEAR 2

2. If removed, install the injection pump on the adapter 1. POINTER

plate. Make sure the marks are aligned. See 2. MARK, GEAR FOR FUEL INJECTION PUMP
FIGURE 88. Tighten the capscrews to 19 N.m (14 lbf FIGURE 89. ALIGNMENT, GEAR FOR THE
ft). FUEL INJECTION PUMP

37
4. Install the capscrews that fasten the adapter to the tim- 1. Carefully clean the parts of the fuel injector in a min-
ing gear case. Tighten the capscrews to 19 N.m (14 lbf eral oil solvent. The parts are specially fitted. Do not use
ft). an abrasive on the fitted areas of the nozzle.

5. Install the fuel lines from the fuel injection pump and
the fuel injectors that returns fuel to the fuel tank.
6. Install the clamps as necessary so that the fuel lines
are not bent. Install the fuel line between the fuel filter
and the fuel injection pump.
7. Connect the throttle cable to the control lever on the
fuel injection pump.
2. Carefully check all parts for wear and damage. See
FIGURE 90. The nozzle assembly (8) must be replaced
if there is any wear or damage. Hold the nozzle in a verti-
cal position. Pull the nozzle upward approximately 1/3
of its length and release it. The nozzle must lower
smoothly into its seat by its own weight. If the nozzle
does not pass this test, it must be replaced.

8. If installation and alignment of the timing gears is

complete, install the access covers for the camshaft gear 1
and the gear for the fuel injection pump.
2
9. See the procedure “Remove Air From The Fuel Sys- 8
tem” before starting the engine.

FUEL INJECTORS (See FIGURE 90.) 3

The engine will run roughly if a fuel injector is damaged 9

or dirty. To find which fuel injector has a problem, oper-
ate the engine at approximately 1000 rpm. Loosen and 4
tighten the connection to the inlet of each fuel injector in
a sequence. When the connection to the fuel injector 5
with a problem is loosened, there will not be a change in 6 10
the engine speed.
7
WARNING
Do not put your hands on fuel lines under pressure.
Fuel oil can be injected into your body by the hy-
draulic pressure. 1. RETAINING NUT 6. SPRING SEAT
2. GASKET 7. SPACER
3. NOZZLE HOLDER 8. NOZZLE
Removal 4. SHIM 9. ADJUSTER
5. SPRING 10. RETAINER
1. Disconnect the fuel lines at the fuel injector. Do not
bend the fuel lines. FIGURE 90. FUEL INJECTOR

2. Remove the fuel injectors. See FIGURE 90.

Inspection
NOTE: The inspection and repair of fuel injectors re-
quire special tools and training. Many users have a spe-
cial repair service make repairs on fuel injectors. Fuel
injector nozzles that have damage or are dirty will cause
black smoke in the exhaust, a decrease in engine power,
and an increase in engine noise.
3. The operation of the fuel injector must be checked
with an injection tester. See FIGURE 91. Follow the
instructions by the tester manufacturer.
4. Check the spray pattern of the nozzle. See
FIGURE 91. If the spray pattern is not correct, clean or
replace parts as required.

38

WARNING
Make sure that the nozzle of the injector is away
from the operator during a test. Test oil can be
injected into your body by the hydraulic pressure.
5. Use an injector tester to check the pressure at which
the nozzle operates. The correct pressure is 14.93 MPa
(2133 psi).
6. See FIGURE 90. To change the pressure at which the
nozzle operates, add or subtract shims (4). Shims are
available in thicknesses of 0.10 to 0.80 mm (0.004 to
0.031 in).
1. INJECTOR TESTER
2. FUEL INJECTOR
Installation
1. Install the fuel injector in the cylinder head. Tighten
the injector to 64 N.m (47 lbf ft).
2. Connect the fuel lines and tighten the fittings. Install
the line clamps if they were removed.
3. Remove the air from the fuel system. See “Remove
Air From The Fuel System”.
4. When the engine can be operated, check for fuel
leaks.
FUEL FILTER
NOTE: There is a water separator in the bottom of the
fuel filter. A sender unit in the bottom of the fuel filter
illuminates an indicator light on the instrument panel if
there is water in the water separator.

Filter Replacement
1. See FIGURE 92. Disconnect the two sender wires
from the bottom of the fuel filter. Remove the fuel filter
2
from its mount. Remove the parts that include the sender
unit from the bottom of the fuel filter.
1
2. Install the parts that include the sender unit in the new
fuel filter. Use a new O–ring between the fuel filter and
the sender unit. Lubricate the O–ring with diesel fuel
when it is installed. When the engine can be operated,
check for leaks.

PATTERN NOT CORRECT Remove Air from the Fuel System

NOTE: The fuel injection pump will normally remove
small amounts of air from the fuel system when the
engine is started. If the fuel pump, fuel injection pump,
or the fuel filter is empty, it is necessary to remove air
4° from tha system as described below.
1. See FIGURE 92. Loosen the vent screw on the fuel
filter housing. Use the hand pump to pump fuel from the
vent until there are no air bubbles in the fuel. Hold down
FIGURE 91. CHECK THE FUEL INJECTORS on the hand pump and close the vent screw.

39
 4. Start the engine and check for leaks.
1 1. HAND PUMP
2. HOUSING Check the Water Sensor (See FIGURE 93.)
2 3. VENT SCREW
4. INLET (FROM
FUEL TANK) 1. Check the operation of the sensor for the fuel filter as
4 5. OUTLET (TO follows:
5 3
INJECTION PUMP)
6. FILTER
7. CAP a. Drain the fuel from the filter. Disconnect the
8. SENSOR AND wires at the sensor. Remove the sensor and float
FLOAT assembly from the filter.
9. O–RING
10. WIRE
b. Connect a continuity tester between the two wires
CONNECTOR
11. DRAIN VALVE for the sensor. Lift on the float. There is continu-
6 9 AND HOSE ity when the float is raised. There is no continuity
when the float is lowered.
8

7
10

11

12609

FIGURE 92. FUEL FILTER WITH A WATER

SEPARATOR

2. Loosen the fitting for the return line on the injection

pump. Operate the hand pump until there is fuel at the
injection pump. Rotate the engine until the fuel at the fit-
ting is free of air bubbles. Tighten the fitting.

3. Loosen the supply line at each fuel injector. Rotate the

engine until the fuel at the fittings is free of air bubbles. FIGURE 93. TEST THE WATER SENSOR
Tighten the fittings.

CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS

VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT INTAKE = 0.40 mm (0.016 in)

NOTE: Before you check the clearance of the valves,
check the torque of the bracket bolts for the rocker arm
assembly. The correct torque is 54 N.m (40 lbf ft).
Number 1 cylinder is at the end of the engine with the
cooling fan. An intake valve is the first valve in the se-
quence.
The valve clearance is measured between the top of the
valve stem and the rocker arm as shown in FIGURE 94.
Valve clearance (cold):
EXHAUST = 0.40 mm (0.016 in)
1. Remove the valve cover. Rotate the crankshaft until
the NO. 1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke as
indicated by the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley.
See FIGURE 95. In this position, both rocker arms for
the number 1 cylinder will be loose.
2. Adjust the valves that are marked “A” in the table of
FIGURE 94. Do the adjustments when the engine is
cold. The correct valve clearance for all valves is 0.40
mm (0.016 in).

40
3. Rotate the crankshaft 360° until the TDC timing mark
is aligned again as shown in FIGURE 95. At this posi-
tion, the NO. 4 piston will be at TDC on the compression
stroke. Adjust the valves that are marked “B” in the table
of FIGURE 94. TDC

FIGURE 95. TIMING MARKS

9723

CYLINDER ARRANGEMENT
NO. 1 NO. 2 NO. 3 NO. 4
IN EX IN EX IN EX IN EX
A A A B B A B B
1
A – Adjust these valves when No. 1 piston is
at TDC on the compression stroke
1. DISTRIBUTOR HEAD 2
B – Adjust these valves when No. 4 piston is
2. PLUNGER
at TDC on the compression stroke
3. DIAL INDICATOR
FIGURE 94. VALVE CLEARANCE
ADJUSTMENT FIGURE 96. FUEL INJECTION PUMP

3. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise approximate-

CHECK THE TIMING OF THE FUEL
INJECTION PUMP
1. Remove the capscrew from the center of the distribu-
tor head (1). See FIGURE 96. Use a dial indicator so
that the movement of the plunger can be measured. The
movement of the plunger can be measured through the
hole in the distributor head where the capscrew was re-
moved.
2. Rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at
TDC on the compression stroke. Read the mark for tim-
ing on the crankshaft pulley that is aligned with the indi-
cator on the gear case shown in FIGURE 95. Rotate the
crankshaft before and after TDC to find the maximum
movement of the plunger toward the end of the distribu-
tor head.
ly 30°. Now rotate the crankshaft clockwise slowly.
4. Stop rotating the crankshaft when the plunger is 0.50
mm (0.020 in) less than its maximum movement found
in step 2.
5. Read the mark for timing on the crankshaft pulley that
is aligned with the indicator on the gear case. See
FIGURE 95. The correct timing for injection is 6°
BTDC.
6. If the timing is not correct, loosen the fuel injection
pump and rotate it as necessary. Repeat the procedure
described in step 5 until the timing is correct.
7. Remove the dial gauge and install the capscrew in the
distributor head.
8. Remove the air from the fuel system. The procedure is
described in “Remove the Air From the Fuel System”.

41
THROTTLE LINKAGE, ADJUSTMENT leased. Make sure the control lever is against the maxi-
(See FIGURE 97. and FIGURE 98.) mum speed screw when the pedal touches the floor.

NOTE: Each time the throttle linkage is disassembled, MONOTROL PEDAL

it is important to adjust the throttle cable. SHOWN

Adjust the throttle linkage when the engine is running at

2
idle speed and at normal operating temperature. 1

1. Disconnect the throttle cable at the control lever on

the injection pump.
2. Adjust the idle speed of the engine. The idle adjust- 3 4
5
ment screw on the injection pump controls the idle
speed. The correct idle speed is 725 ± 25 rpm. Be sure to 4
use a tachometer that will work for a diesel engine.
3. Check that the engine speed with the throttle wide
open and no load is 2100 to 2200 rpm. Use the maximum
speed screw on the injection pump for to set the engine
speed at wide open throttle.

1 2
3
4
4
6 4

1. PEDAL FRAME
6 2. PEDAL PAD
5 3. STOP
4. CORRECT HOLES FOR THE LINKAGE
5. LINK
12845
6. CRANK

FIGURE 98. THROTTLE PEDAL AND

1. RETURN SPRING 4. THROTTLE CABLE
2. CONTROL LEVER 5. INJECTION PUMP
3. IDLE ADJUSTMENT 6. MAXIMUM SPEED
SCREW SCREW
FIGURE 97. THROTTLE LINKAGE
4. Make sure the throttle linkage at the pedal assembly is
in the correct position. Hold the throttle pedal against
the floor plate. Hold the control lever in the wide open
position. Adjust the position of the cable by using the
jam nuts on the bracket at the intake manifold. Adjust
the cable so that the rod end fits into the control lever
5. Adjust the stop for the throttle pedal so that the control
lever is completely closed when the pedal is released.
6. Operate the throttle pedal. Make sure the control lever
is against the idle speed screw when the pedal is re-
LINKAGE
CHECK THE ELEMENTS FOR THE COLD
START AID SYSTEM
Check the condition of the glow plugs for the cold start
aid system. See the section THE ELECTRICAL SYS-
TEM for more information.
CHECK THE COMPRESSION PRESSURE
(See FIGURE 99.)
1. Operate the engine until it is at normal operating tem-
perature.
2. Remove the glow plugs from the cylinder head. Dis-
connect the wire at the fuel shut off solenoid on the in-
jection pump. Disconnect the wire for the temperature
switch at the thermostat housing.

42
3. Install a compression gauge in the number 1 cylinder.
Make sure the gauge has a minimum range of 3.5 MPa
(500 psi).
4. Use the starter to crank the engine at least six (6) revo-
lutions. Check the pressure reading and release the pres-
sure. Repeat the test again and make a note of the highest
pressure. Do this test for each cylinder.
5. The standard pressure reading is 3.0 MPa (427 psi).
The minimum reading is 2.7 MPa (384 psi). The maxi-
mum variation between cylinders is 0.3 MPa (43 psi).
6. If the readings are lower than the minimum reading,
there is a problem with the valves, piston rings or cylin-
der head gasket. Do the following tests to find the prob-
lem:
a. Add approximately 30 ml (1.0 oz) of engine oil to
each cylinder at the glow plug port.
b. Crank the engine approximately ten revolutions
to distribute the oil.
c. Install the compression gauge and do the same
tests as described in step 3.
d. If the compression pressure increases to a normal
reading, the low pressure was caused by worn or
damaged piston rings. The cylinder bore can also
be damaged.
e. If the compression reading does not increase, the
low pressure was caused by worn valves, valve
seats or valve guides.
f. If the low pressure readings are in two cylinders
next to each other, the cylinder head can be leak-
ing.
1. ADAPTER
1
FIGURE 99. CHECK THE COMPRESSION
PRESSURE
43
 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
ITEM SPECIFICATION
Engine Type In–Line, Four Cylinders
Bore x Stroke 95.4 mm x 107.0 mm (3.76 in x 4.21 in)
Firing Order 1–3–4–2
Displacement 3059 cm3 (186.7 in3)
Compression Ratio 20.5:1
Idle Speed 725 ± 25
Governed Speed (No Load) 2100–2200 rpm
Compression Pressure 2944 kPa (427 psi) @ 250 rpm
Injection Pump Timing 6° BTDC
Oil Pressure @ 2000 rpm 294 kPa (43 psi)
Thermostat
Starts to Open 76.5°C (170°F)
Fully Open 90°C (194°F)
Camshaft
Camshaft Lobes 42.02 mm (1.6543 in)
Camshaft Lobes – Minimum Height 41.65 mm (1.66398 in)
Bearing Journals 49.945–49.975 mm (1.9663–1.9675 in)
Service Limit 49.60 mm (1.953 in)
Clearance Between Journals and Bore 0.12 mm (0.005 in)
End Clearance (Maximum) 0.20 mm (0.0079 in)
Connecting Rods
Small End Bore 21.943–21.961 mm (0.8639–0.8646 in)
Clearance Between Piston Pin and Bore 0.012–0.039 mm (0.0005–0.0015 in)
Service Limit 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
Clearance Between Crankshaft Journals
and Rod Bearings 0.037–0.076 mm (0.0015–0.0030 in)
Crankshaft
Distortion 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
Service Limit 0.08 mm (0.0031 in)
Main Bearing Journal Diameter 69.917–69.932 mm (2.7526–2.7532 in)
Service Limit 69.91 mm (2.7524 in)
Clearance Between Journals and Main Bearings See TABLE 11
Connecting Rod Journal Diameter 52.915–52.930 mm (2.0833–2.0839 in)
Service Limit 52.90 mm (2.0843 in)
Thrust Bearing Clearance 0.10 mm (0.0039 in)
Service Limit 0.30 mm (0.0118 in)
Cylinder Block and Liners
Sizes See TABLES 12 and 13
Cylinder Head
Height 91.55 mm (3.604 in)
Distortion Limit 0.20 mm (0.008 in)

44
 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
ITEM ENGINE MODEL
Oil Pump
Clearance Between Shaft and Body (Maximum) 0.2 mm (0.008 in)
Clearance Between Inner and Outer Rotors (Maximum) 0.2 mm (0.008 in)
Clearance Between Outer Rotor and Body (Maximum) 0.4 mm (0.016 in)
End Clearance Between Rotors and Housing (Maximum) 0.15 mm (0.006 in)
Pistons
Diameter See TABLE 9
Clearance in Groove for Piston Rings See TABLE 7
Piston Ring End Clearance See TABLE 6
Piston Pins
Diameter 33.995–34.000 mm (1.3384–1.3386 in)
Service Limit 33.970 mm (1.3374 in)
Rocker Shaft Assembly
Rocker Shaft Diameter 18.98–19.00 mm (0.747–0.748 in)
Service Limit 18.90 mm (0.744 in)
Rocker Arm, Inside Diameter 19.036–19.060 mm (0.7494–0.7503 in)
Service Limit 19.100 mm (0.7519 in)
Valve Mechanism
Clearance in Guide (Intake) 0.039–0.069 mm (0.0015–0.0027 in)
Service Limit 0.200 mm (0.0079 in)
Clearance in Guide (Exhaust) 0.064–0.093 mm (0.0025–0.0037 in)
Service Limit 0.250 mm (0.0098 in)
Diameter of Valve Stem (Intake) 7.946–7.961 mm (0.3128–0.3134 in)
Service Limit 7.880 mm (0.3102 in)
Diameter of Valve Stem (Exhaust) 7.946–7.961 mm (0.3128–0.3134 in)
Service Limit 7.850 mm (0.3091 in)
Valve Seats See FIGURE 13
Valve Face Angle (Intake and Exhaust) 45°
Spring, Free Length 48.0 mm (1.89 in)
Service Limit 47.1 mm (1.86 in)

45
 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
ITEM SPECIFICATION
Camshaft Gear 64 N.m (47 lbf ft)
Camshaft Thrust Plate 18 N.m (13 lbf ft)
Cooling Fan 20 N.m (15 lbf ft)
Coolant Pump 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
Connecting Rod Cap See Text
Crankshaft Pulley 275 N.m (203 lbf ft)
Cylinder Head See Text
Engine Mount to Engine 55 N.m (41 lbf ft)
Exhaust Manifold 18 to 22 N.m (13 to 16 lbf ft)
Flywheel 120 N.m (89 lbf ft)
Flywheel Housing See FIGURE 75
Fuel Injection Pump Drive Gear 64 N.m (47 lbf ft)
Fuel Injection Pump To Adapter Plate 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
Fuel Injector 64 N.m (47 lbf ft)
Glow Plug 23 N.m (17 lbf ft)
Intake Manifold 16 to 24 N.m (12 to 17 lbf ft)
Main Bearing Cap 167 N.m (123 lbf ft)
Oil Pump 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
Oil Sump 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
Rocker Shaft Brackets 54 N.m (40 lbf ft)
Starter 88 N.m (65 lbf ft)
Thermostat Housing 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
Timing Gear Case 20 N.m (15 lbf ft)
Timing Gear Cover 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)

46

PROBLEM
The engine will not start.
The engine rotates but will
not start.
The engine does not idle
smoothly.
The engine does not have
normal power.
The engine uses too much
fuel.
TROUBLESHOOTING
POSSIBLE CAUSE PROCEDURE OR ACTION
1. Fuel tank is empty. 1. Fill fuel tank.
2. Starter does not operate. 2. Check starter and circuit.
3. Cold start aid does not operate. 3. Check circuit for glow plugs.
4. Neutral start circuit does not oper- 4. Check wiring and switches.
ate correctly.
5. Engine has internal damage. 5. Check and repair.
6. Fuel shut–off solenoid does not op- 6. Check wiring and solenoid.
erate correctly.
7. Battery is not fully charged. 7. Charge the battery.
8. Battery cables dirty or loose. 8. Clean and tighten battery termi-
nals.
1. Fuel tank is empty. 1. Fill fuel tank.
2. Fuel injector(s), or fuel injection 2. Clean or repair.
pump does not operate correctly.
3. Cold start aid does not operate. 3. Check circuit for glow plugs.
4. Fuel lines have a restriction. 4. Repair fuel lines.
5. Fuel shut–off solenoid does not op- 5. Check wiring and solenoid.
erate correctly.
1. Air is in the fuel system. 1. Remove air.
2. Fuel injector(s), or fuel injection 2. Clean or repair.
pump does not operate correctly.
3. Fuel lines have a restriction. 3. Repair fuel lines.
4. Fuel filter has a restriction. 4. Install a new filter element.
5. Water in the fuel system. 5. Drain water from filter.
6. Valves are not adjusted correctly. 6. Adjust the valves.
7. Compression pressure is too low. 7. Repair engine.
1. Air filter has a restriction. 1. Clean or install a new filter.
2. Fuel injector(s), or fuel injection 2. Clean or repair.
pump does not operate correctly.
3. Fuel lines have a restriction. 3. Repair fuel lines.
4. Fuel filter has a restriction. 4. Install a new filter element.
5. Water in the fuel system. 5. Drain water from filter.
6. Valves are not adjusted correctly. 6. Adjust the valves.
7. Compression pressure is too low. 7. Repair engine.
8. Valve springs are worn or broken. 8. Replace springs.
9. Exhaust pipe has a restriction. 9. Clean exhaust pipe.
1. Air filter has a restriction. 1. Clean or install a new filter.
2. Fuel injector(s), or fuel injection 2. Clean or repair.
pump does not operate correctly.
3. Valves are not adjusted correctly. 3. Adjust the valves.
4. Compression pressure is too low. 4. Repair engine.
5. Valve springs are worn or broken. 5. Replace springs.
47
 TROUBLESHOOTING
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE PROCEDURE OR ACTION
Engine oil pressure is too 1. Too much oil in the engine, or the 1. Use correct amount and type of oil.
low. wrong type of oil.
2. Oil filter has a restriction. 2. Install a new oil filter.
3. Oil strainer has a restriction. 3. Clean oil strainer.
4. Oil pump is worn. 4. Install a new oil pump.
5. Rocker arm bushings are worn. 5. Install new bushings.
6. Camshaft or bearings are worn. 6. Install a new camshaft or bearings.
7. Crankshaft or bearings are worn. 7 Install a new crankshaft or bear-
ings.
The engine uses too much 1. Too much oil in the engine, or the 1. Use correct amount and type of oil.
oil. wrong type of oil.
2. Oil leaks from seals or gaskets. 2. Install new seals or gaskets.
3. Seals for valve guides are worn. 3. Install new valve guide seals.
4. Piston rings are worn or broken. 4. Install new piston rings.
5. Cylinder liners are worn or dam- 5. Install new liners.
aged.
6. Oil lines or oil filter is loose. 6. Check for loose fittings or filter.
The engine operating temper- 1. Coolant level is too low. 1. Check coolant level.
ature is too high. 2. Drive belt for fan and water pump 2. Install drive belt and adjust tension.
is loose or missing.
3. Radiator has a restriction. 3. Clean or repair radiator.
4. Water pump is worn or damaged. 4. Install a new water pump.
5. Cylinder head gasket leaks. 5. Install a new head gasket.
6. Thermostat does not operate. 6. Install a new thermostat.
7. Leaks in the cooling system. 7. Repair leaks.
8. Fuel injection timing is not correct. 8. Check and adjust timing.
White exhaust smoke. 1. There is water in the fuel. 1. Drain water at fuel filter.
2. Fuel injection timing is not correct. 2. Check and adjust timing.
3. Compression pressure is too low. 3. Repair engine.
4. Seals for valve guides are worn. 4. Install new valve guide seals.
5. Piston rings are worn or broken. 5. Install new piston rings.
6. Cylinder liners are worn or dam- 6. Install new liners.
aged.
Black exhaust smoke. 1. Air filter has a restriction. 1. Clean or install a new filter.
2. Fuel injector is dirty or pressure is 2. Clean and adjust injectors.
too low
3. Fuel injection timing is not correct. 3. Check and adjust timing.

TECHNICAL PUBLICATIONS

600 SRM 553 1/94 Litho in U.S.A.

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 INTRODUCTION
GENERAL DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
The LPG fuel system has a fuel tank, solenoid valve, re-
This section has the description, operation and the repair lief valve, fuel filter and fuel valve, vaporizer, carbure-
procedures for the parts of the LPG fuel system used on tor, governor controller and governor assembly. See
the GM 2.2L and 3.0L engines. FIGURE 1.

2.2L ARRANGEMENT SHOWN

17
5
6

1
15 16 14
14

18
3

13

12

11
5
6

7
9. SOLENOID VALVE
9 10. MANIFOLD PRESSURE SENSOR
10 11. GOVERNOR
8 12. FILTER
13. GOVERNOR SOLENOID VALVE
14. COOLING SYSTEM HOSES
1. TANK 5. LIQUID LPG HOSE 15 VACUUM HOSE
2. SHUT–OFF VALVE 6. BALANCE LINE 16. LPG VAPOR LINE
3. RELIEF VALVE 7. IDLE CONTROL ACTUATOR 17. VAPORIZER
4. FILTER/FUEL VALVE 8. CHECK VALVE 18. LPG CARBURETOR

FIGURE 1. ARRANGEMENT FOR GM 2.2L ENGINE

1
Fuel Tank (See FIGURE 2.)
4
The fuel tank is the reservoir for the LPG system. The 3 5 6 7 8 9
fuel tank keeps the fuel in the liquid condition. The pres-
2
sure of the fuel is 1.7 MPa (240 psi) when the tank is full
at a temperature of 27°C (80°F). The tank has a pressure
relief valve that is set at 3.4 MPa (480 psi). The inlet tube 1
for the pressure relief valve is in the vapor area at the top 10
of the tank. The tank has a fuel gauge that measures the
percentage of fuel that is in the tank. A liquid level valve 17
near the pressure relief valve is used to indicate the
maximum liquid level that is permitted. The tank is
filled until liquid fuel flows from the liquid level valve.
11
One end of the outlet tube inside the tank is near the
lower surface of the tank. The other end of the tube is
fastened to the outlet port.
16

8
5
1 12

2
4

7 15 13
3
1. DIAPHRAGM 10. FILTER ELEMENT
2. FULCRUM AND SCREEN
6 3. VACUUM INLET 11. FUEL INLET
4. O–RING 12. LEAF SPRING
5. WASHER 13. GASKET
6. PIN 14. BODY
1. SHUT–OFF VALVE 5. LIQUID LEVEL 7. FUEL OUTLET 15. DIAPHRAGM COVER
2. QUICK INDICATOR 8. VALVE PAD 16. AIR INLET
DISCONNECT 6. RELIEF VALVE 9. FILTER COVER 17. LEVER
FITTING 7. ALIGNMENT
3. FUEL GAUGE PIN FIGURE 3. FUEL FILTER AND FUEL VALVE
4. PLUG 8. TANK RELIEF
VALVE Fuel Filter and Fuel Valve Unit
NOTE: Some LPG tanks have an auxiliary fill (See FIGURE 3.)
fitting instead of a plug for Item 4.
A fuel line connects the tank to the fuel filter. The fuel
FIGURE 2. LPG TANK filter prevents dirt from entering the vaporizer and has a
fuel valve that is operated by engine vacuum. The fuel
valve prevents fuel from entering the vaporizer unless
A shut–off valve is installed in the outlet port of the tank. the engine is being started or is running. The fuel valve
The fuel valve can prevent fuel from leaving the tank has a leaf spring that holds a polyurethane pad against
when the outlet line is disconnected. A quick disconnect the seat. A diaphragm is used to open the fuel valve. Air
fitting is installed for easy tank removal. The tank has a pressure pushes on the vent side of the diaphragm. The
guard for the valves and fittings. The guard has a hole for other side of the diaphragm has inlet manifold vacuum
the alignment dowel on the mount. The tank is fastened and a lever and plunger that open the fuel valve. When
to the lift truck by metal straps with latches. the engine starts, the air pressure on the lever side of the
2
diaphragm decreases. Then the air pressure on the vent uum opens the vapor valve and permits the gas to flow to
side of the diaphragm moves the diaphragm, lever and the carburetor.
pin to move the valve pad from the seat. Liquid LPG
then flows through the fuel valve to the vaporizer.
Liquid fuel enters the vaporizer inlet from the filter unit.
The pressure reducer valve has a polyurethane pad and a
Vaporizer (See FIGURE 4.) seat. When the pad is against the seat, the liquid fuel can-
not enter the expansion chamber.
The function of the vaporizer is to change the liquid fuel
to a vapor (gas) and to control the pressure of the vapor.
When the liquid fuel enters through the pressure reducer
The LPG fuel changes from a liquid to a vapor inside the
valve, the pressure of the fuel pushes on the diaphragm.
expansion chamber. A liquid needs heat to change to a
The diaphragm immediately moves and closes the
gas. Heat is removed from the vaporizer when the pres-
valve. Because only a very low pressure is needed to
sure of the liquid LPG is quickly decreased in the expan-
close the valve, the fuel pressure in the expansion cham-
sion chamber. The vaporizer must to be heated by the
ber is very low. The sudden decrease in pressure causes
engine coolant to replace the heat that is lost to the fuel.
the fuel to change from a liquid to a vapor. This change
Coolant passages in the vaporizer prevent the vaporizer
of condition takes heat from the surfaces of the expan-
from being too cold to operate.
sion chamber. Warm coolant flows next to the surfaces
of the chamber to replace the heat.

1
The LPG vapor is kept in the expansion chamber by the
vapor valve. When the engine starts, the gas in the vapor
2 chamber leaves the vapor chamber to flow through the
2
carburetor. The pressure on the vapor diaphragm then
decreases. Air pressure on the other side of the vapor
diaphragm pushes on the diaphragm and opens the va-
por valve. The gas flows from the expansion chamber to
the vapor chamber and then to the solenoid valve and
carburetor. The pressure in the expansion chamber de-
creases and again the pressure reducer valve opens to re-
peat the operation. When the carburetor throttle is
closed, the vacuum in the vapor chamber decreases and
the vapor valve closes. The pressure in the vapor cham-
5 ber stays at 10.3 kPa (1.5 psi).
4
3
1. FUEL INLET A balance line connects the air pressure side of the vapor
2. COOLANT PORTS diaphragm to an air inlet port at the carburetor. If the air
3. BUTTON FOR LOW PRESSURE VALVE
4. FUEL OUTLET filter has a restriction, the pressure decreases in the car-
5. BALANCE LINE FITTING (CHECK VALVE) buretor and in the vapor chamber of the vaporizer. When
a balance line is not installed, this decrease can cause the
FIGURE 4. VAPORIZER
diaphragm to move and open the vapor valve. When a
balance tube is connected, the restriction causes an
The vaporizer also controls the pressure of the gas that equal decrease on both sides of the diaphragm. The bal-
goes to the carburetor. The pressure reducer valve keeps ance line prevents an increase in the fuel mixture in the
the pressure of the gas in the expansion chamber at 38 carburetor. A button in the housing can be used to manu-
mm (1.5 in) of water. When gas is required at the carbu- ally open the vapor valve. LPG vapor then flows to the
retor, there is a vacuum in the vapor chamber. The vac- carburetor for starting the engine.

3
 1
9 9 6
2

7
3 10

4
6

5
5
6. EXPANSION CHAMBER
1. VAPOR CHAMBER 7. COOLANT PASSAGE
2. COVER 8. DIAPHRAGM FOR PRESSURE
3. DIAPHRAGM FOR VAPOR VALVE REDUCER VALVE
4. VAPOR VALVE LEVER 9. PRESSURE REDUCER VALVE
5. VAPOR VALVE 10. OUTLET

FIGURE 5. INSIDE THE VAPORIZER

Carburetor
(See FIGURE 6. through FIGURE 8.)
The carburetor has two moving parts, the throttle and a
diaphragm with the fuel metering valve. The fuel tube in
the center of the air tube is the seat for the fuel metering
valve.
When the engine starts, the air in the air tube and in the
vacuum chamber flows to the engine. Air pressure on
the outside of the air tube pushes the diaphragm against
the metering spring. (A dampener chamber is installed
at the top of the carburetor. The chamber helps to de-
crease the pulses felt at the diaphragm caused by the
pumping action of the pistons in the engine.) The fuel
metering valve moves from its seat. Air then flows from
the outside of the air tube to the inside of the air tube. The
fuel pressure moves the LPG vapor past the fuel meter-
ing valve to mix with the air flowing through the air
tube. Because the diaphragm causes a restriction, the
pressure in the inside of the air tube is always less than
on the outside of the tube. The difference in pressure
4
changes when the amount of air flowing through the air
tube changes. The diaphragm moves according to the air
flow. The amount of fuel that can flow past the fuel me-
tering valve is controlled by the amount of air flowing
into the air tube.
When the throttle plate is near the closed position, the
pressure difference decreases. The metering spring
pushes the fuel metering valve toward its seat and de-
creases fuel flow around the fuel metering valve. An idle
mixture screw permits adjustment of the air supply at
low engine speed.
When the throttle plate is fully open at high engine
speeds, the fuel metering valve is at the top of its travel.
The carburetor has an adjustable valve that controls the
amount of LPG vapor that goes to the fuel metering
valve. The restriction in fuel flow by this valve is small
when the fuel flow is low. When more fuel flows
through the valve, the valve becomes an orifice. Adjust-
ing the valve opening changes the mixture of fuel and air
when the engine is operated at high speed with a load.
 1
2 3

7 FUEL FLOW
6 9 4 AIR FLOW
VACUUM

5
8882

FIGURE 8. AIR–FUEL FLOW AT HIGH SPEED

1. DIAPHRAGM
2. DAMPENER CHAMBER
3. AIR INLET Solenoid Valve (See FIGURE 1.)
4. FUEL METERING VALVE
5. FUEL PASSAGE The solenoid valve is installed at the fuel inlet of the car-
6. IDLE AIR ORIFICE buretor. The valve opens to let fuel to the carburetor
7. POWER VALVE when the key switch is ON. When the key switch is
8. IDLE MIXTURE SCREW
4735 OFF, the valve closes and fuel cannot flow to the carbu-
9. AIR TUBE
retor.
FIGURE 6. INSIDE THE CARBURETOR
A controller that monitors engine speed is also con-
nected to the solenoid valve. When the engine speed ex-
ceeds the governor limit, the controller deenergizes the
solenoid valve and stops the fuel flow to the carburetor.
When the engine speed decreases below the governor
limit, the controller energizes the solenoid valve, per-
mitting fuel to flow to the carburetor.

Idle Control Actuator (See FIGURE 1.)

The idle control actuator is a vacuum controlled device

that increases idle speed when there is a load on the en-
gine. The idle control actuator is mounted on the carbu-
retor and acts directly on the throttle linkage. The vacu-
um line is connected to the governor and senses man-
FUEL FLOW ifold vacuum. A check valve in the vacuum line keeps
AIR FLOW the vacuum at the actuator.
During normal operation, vacuum holds the actuator rod
away from the throttle linkage. When the engine is at
8882 idle speed and the throttle is depressed, manifold vacu-
um decreases. The decrease in vacuum lets the actuator
FIGURE 7. AIR AND FUEL FLOW AT IDLE
rod extend and increase the idle speed.

5
Governor System
(See FIGURE 1. and FIGURE 9.)
The governor system controls the maximum engine
speed under variable load conditions. A sudden de-
crease of the engine load can cause the engine speed to
increase beyond the specification limits. A sudden in-
crease in engine load can decrease the engine speed. The
governor system controls these sudden changes in en-
gine speed.
2 vacuum is high. A spring in the governor opens the
1 3
1. DIAPHRAGM ASSEMBLY
2. GOVERNOR BODY
3. CONTROL SPRING
FIGURE 9. GOVERNOR
The governor attaches to the carburetor throttle assem-
bly. The governor controller is on the cowl in the opera-
tor’s compartment. Vacuum lines connect the governor
REPAIRS
REPLACEMENT OF THE HOSES
The hoses installed on LPG systems are special. Hoses
that are made for use with hydraulic oil are damaged by
LPG. When replacing the LPG hoses, make sure to use
only HYSTER Approved LPG hose. Make sure to use
the correct size of hose. When replacing the hose to the
quick disconnect fitting, make sure that it is the same
length as the hose it replaces. A hose that is the wrong
length permits the tank to be installed in a position that is
not correct.
LPG TANK
Removal (See FIGURE 10.)
WARNING
Before disconnecting any part of the LPG fuel sys-
tem, close the shut–off valve on the fuel tank. Run
the engine until the fuel lines are empty and the en-
6
solenoid valve to the carburetor and to the diaphragm of
the governor. The governor controller is electrically
connected to the governor solenoid valve and the engine
speed sensor on the engine.
The operation of the governor is controlled by an elec-
tronic controller. Manifold vacuum and air pressure pro-
vide the force to actuate the governor. The electronic
controller controls this force. The governor diaphragm
operates the throttle plate of the carburetor. Linkage
from the diaphragm closes the throttle plate when the
throttle plate.
The electronic controller is connected to the ignition
system and controls the operation of the governor sole-
noid valve. The governor solenoid valve controls the
vacuum at the diaphragm in the governor. During opera-
tion, the electronic controller receives the engine speed
signals. As the engine speed reaches the governed
speed, current flows to the governor solenoid valve. The
solenoid valve closes, causing vacuum to operate the
diaphragm. When actuated, the diaphragm works
against the governor spring to close the throttle plate and
decrease engine speed. The governor solenoid valve
opens and closes as necessary to keep the engine speed
within the governor limits.
gine stops. If the engine will not run, close the shut–
off valve on the fuel tank and release the fuel slowly
in a non–hazardous area.
WARNING
LPG can cause an explosion even when the tanks are
empty. When replacing the tanks, do not weld, cause
sparks or permit flammable material on or near the
tanks. Do not change tanks when the engine is run-
ning. Tanks must be filled by authorized personnel.
Follow all the safety rules. Do not remove any parts
from the tank. Use a cloth to protect your hands from
cold metal.
Frost on the surface of the tank, the valves or fittings
and the odor of LPG fuel indicates a leak. Inspect the
LPG system and repair a leak immediately. An LPG
fuel leak creates an explosion and fire hazard. Do not
attempt to start the engine if there is a leak in the
LPG fuel system.
LPG tanks are heavy. The weight of an LPG tank can 2. Install the LPG tank in its bracket so that the align-
exceed the maximum recommended weight for safe ment pin is in the correct hole in the bracket. Close the
lifting by an individual. Get assistance when lifting latches.
or lowering an LPG tank. Use correct lifting proce-
3. Connect the quick disconnect fitting to the shut–off
dures.
valve on the tank. Use your hand to tighten the fitting.
Do not store LPG tanks near heat or an open flame.
For complete instructions on the storage of LPG fu-
els, refer to ANSI/NFPA 58 & 505. 8
5
1
1. Move the lift truck to the area where tanks are
changed.
2
4
2. Turn the shut–off valve clockwise until the valve is
completely closed. 3 7

3. Run the engine until it stops, then turn the key to the
OFF position. 6

4. Disconnect the quick disconnect fitting.

1. SHUT–OFF VALVE 5. LIQUID LEVEL
2. QUICK DISCON- INDICATOR
WARNING 6. RELIEF VALVE
LPG is very cold. Always wear gloves to protect your NECT FITTING
3. FUEL GAUGE 7. ALIGNMENT
hands from the cold fittings. Do not permit LPG to 4. PLUG PIN
contact the skin. 8. TANK RELIEF
VALVE

5. Release the tank latch and remove the tank from the
bracket.
WARNING
Do not use any LPG tank that is damaged. Damaged
tanks must be removed from service.
Installation (See FIGURE 10.)
NOTE: Some LPG tanks have an auxiliary fill
fitting instead of a plug for Item 4.
FIGURE 10. LPG TANK
4. Turn the shut–off valve counterclockwise to open the
valve.
5. Inspect the fuel system for leaks when the shut–off
valve is open. Frost on the surface of the tank, valves or
fittings or a strong odor of LPG fuel indicates a leak.

1. Before the tank is installed on the lift truck, check the WARNING
operation of the fuel gauge. Look at the fuel gauge and The shut–off valve on the tank must be closed when
move the tank. The needle of the gauge must move when the truck is not being used.
the fuel moves. If the needle does not move, a new tank
must be installed. HYDROSTATIC RELIEF VALVE

WARNING Removal and Installation

Make sure the alignment pin extends through the
correct hole in the rim of the LPG tank. The hose or
fittings can be damaged if the LPG tank is not
installed in the correct position. A damaged hose or
fitting can release LPG fuel and cause an explosion
and fire hazard.
WARNING
LPG can cause an explosion. Do not cause sparks or
permit flammable material near the LPG system.
Close the fuel valve on the tank. Disconnect the nega-
tive battery cable to prevent sparks.

7
1. Close the shut–off valve on the tank.
2. Slowly loosen the hose fitting for the relief valve. Let
the fuel drain from the fitting before removing the relief
valve.
WARNING
LPG is flammable. Make sure there are no sparks or
open flames in the area when the fuel lines are
drained.
3. The valve cannot be repaired. If the valve does not
work, install a new valve. After installation, open the
shut–off valve slowly and inspect the system for leaks.
FILTER UNIT
Replacement Of The Fuel Filter Element
(See FIGURE 11.)
NOTE: Use a liquid thread sealant on all fittings with
threads at the filter unit.
1. Close the shut–off valve on the tank. Slowly loosen
the hose fitting to the filter. Let the fuel drain from the
fitting before disassembling the filter unit.
WARNING
LPG is flammable. Make sure there are no sparks or
open flames in the area when the fuel lines are
drained.
2. Remove the 10 screws and the filter cover. Replace
the filter element.
3. Install the cover and gasket. Tighten the screws for the
cover. Tighten the hose fitting.
8
Replacement of the Diaphragm and Fuel
Valve (See FIGURE 11.)
1. Close the shut–off valve on the tank. Slowly discon-
nect the fittings for the inlet and outlet hoses and let the
LPG drain from the lines. Remove the vacuum hose and
the mount capscrews.
2. Remove the 10 screws from the filter cover. Remove
the filter and screen. Remove the six screws from the
diaphragm cover. Remove the covers and gaskets.
3. Remove the diaphragm. Remove the filter and screen.
Remove the screw for the leaf spring. Remove the valve
pad. Pull the pin from its bore.
4. Remove the fitting from the fuel outlet port. Remove
the washer and O–ring through the outlet port.
5. Install a new O–ring in its bore. Align the washer with
the O–ring and install the pin through the washer and O–
ring.
6. Install the valve pad with the side with the polyure-
thane pad toward the bore. Install the leaf spring, lock
washer and screw.
7. Install the screen and filter element. Put the gasket on
the body and install the filter cover and the ten screws
and lock washers.
8. Replace the diaphragm. Install the diaphragm so that
the large plate is toward the valve. Install the cover and
tighten the six screws and lock washers.
9. Install the capscrews for the mount. Connect the vac-
uum line. Connect the lines for the tank and the vapor-
izer.
10. Open the shut–off valve on the tank and check for
leaks in the line to the filter unit. Start the engine and in-
spect for leaks on the outlet side of the filter unit.
 2 8
9

10
1

1
11

4
12

3 1

13
5

14

5. LEVER
1. SCREW 6. WASHER
2. DIAPHRAGM COVER 7. BODY 10. VALVE PAD 12. FILTER
3. DIAPHRAGM 8. O–RING 11. SCREEN 13. GASKET
4. FULCRUM 9. PIN 12. FILTER 14. FILTER COVER

FIGURE 11. FUEL VALVE AND FUEL FILTER

VAPORIZER 1. Close the shut–off valve on the tank. Run the engine
until it stops. Slowly disconnect the fitting from the fil-
ter unit on the vaporizer. Disconnect the hose to the car-
Removal
buretor.

WARNING 2. Put a drain pan under the drain valve for the radiator.
LPG can cause an explosion. Do not permit any Open the drain valve so that the coolant drains in the
sparks or open flames in the work area. pan.

9
3. Disconnect the coolant fittings to the vaporizer. Re-
move the balance line from the vaporizer. Remove the
capscrews at the mount for the vaporizer.
Disassembly (See FIGURE 12.)
1. Remove the seven screws that hold the high pressure
cover and plate to the vaporizer body. Remove the cover
and pressure reducer diaphragm. Remove the pin and
spring from the plate.
2. Remove the plate and gasket. Remove the pressure
reducer valve.
3. Remove the six screws that hold the cover for the va-
por chamber to the vaporizer. Remove the cover. Move
the diaphragm toward the inlet port to release it from the
lever.

1
2

11

12

1
4
7 6
5
8 13
14
15
6 9

16 1

10

11. GASKET
1. SCREW 6. SPRING 12. PLATE
2. COVER FOR VAPOR VALVE 7. VAPOR VALVE PAD 13. PLUG
DIAPHRAGM 8. PIN 14. ACTUATING PIN
3. VAPOR VALVE DIAPHRAGM 9. HOUSING 15. DIAPHRAGM FOR PRESSURE
4. VAPOR VALVE LEVER 10. PAD FOR PRESSURE REDUCER VALVE
5. PIVOT PIN REDUCER VALVE 16. COVER

FIGURE 12. PARTS OF THE VAPORIZER

10
 STEP 1:
Install the pad for the pressure reducer valve.
Make sure the polyurethane surface is against
the seat.
STEP 2:
Install a new gasket. Install the plate with pin
guide over the pressure reducer valve.
FIGURE 13. ASSEMBLY OF THE VAPORIZER (1 OF 3)
4. Remove the screw that holds the lever pin. Cut the
wire that holds the vapor valve pad to the lever. Remove
the pad.
Cleaning
WARNING
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic, and
can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning sol-
STEP 3:
Install the actuating pin and spring.
STEP 4:
Install a new diaphragm.
vents, always follow the recommendations of the
manufacturer.
Wash all parts of the assembly, except the diaphragms in
solvent. Use compressed air to dry the parts. Do not use
compressed air on the diaphragms.
Inspection
Make sure the vaporizer housing does not have cracks or
damage. Inspect the threads for damage. The dia-
11
phragms, valve pads, and gaskets are included in the re-
pair kit. Check that the check ball in the balance line fit-
ting moves freely.
Assembly (See FIGURE 13.)
NOTE: Use a liquid thread sealant on all fittings with
threads at the vaporizer.
Follow the procedures shown in FIGURE 13. Always
use a HYSTER Approved repair kit when assembling
the vaporizer.
STEP 5: Install the cover. Tighten the screws.
STEP 6:
Remove the vapor valve pad from the valve lever.
Install a new valve pad in the lever. Leave the pad
loose enough against the lever so that the pad can
tilt for alignment against the seat. Bend and cut the
pin shown.
FIGURE 13. ASSEMBLY OF THE VAPORIZER (2 OF 3)
12
Installation
CAUTION
Use care when installing the fitting for the balance
line. If the fitting is tightened more than 2 to 3 turns
the washer inside the vaporizer can be damaged.
Install the mount capscrews. Connect all the lines to the
fittings. Fill the radiator with coolant. Check for leaks.
STEP 7:
Put the valve spring in position on the housing.
Put the lever assembly over the spring. Install
the screw so that the head of the screw is
holding the pivot pin.
STEP 8:
Tighten the screw. Make sure the lever moves
freely.
 STEP 9:
Slide the lever into the slot in the diaphragm
bracket. Install the diaphragm.
FIGURE 13. ASSEMBLY OF THE VAPORIZER (3 OF 3)
CARBURETOR
Removal
1. Remove the hose from the air cleaner at the carburetor
inlet. Disconnect the wires to the fuel shut–off valve.
Remove the fuel inlet hose at the fuel shut–off valve. Re-
move the balance lines from the carburetor. Remove the
vacuum hoses from the carburetor, idle controller actua-
tor and governor.
2. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle le-
ver. Remove the two attachment nuts at the base of the
carburetor.
3. Remove the carburetor and the governor assembly.
Disassembly (See FIGURE 14.)
NOTE: Disassembly of the throttle body and throttle
shaft assembly is needed only if the gaskets or seals need
to be replaced. Remove the governor as needed.
1. Remove the six screws from the diaphragm cover. Re-
move the cover and metering spring.
2. Remove the diaphragm, dampener chamber and fuel
valve assembly from the carburetor body. Remove the
four screws from the diaphragm plate and disassemble
the fuel valve.
3. Remove the fuel solenoid valve and the idle control
actuator. Remove the idle mixture screw and spring.
STEP 10:
Install the cover and tighten the screws.
4. Remove the four screws that connect the throttle body
to the carburetor body. Remove the throttle body and at-
tachment plate.
5. Remove the two screws that connect the throttle plate
to the throttle shaft and remove the throttle plate.
6. Remove the cover to the governor. Remove the retain-
er from the throttle shaft. Disconnect the governor
spring as needed to remove the governor attachment
screws. Remove the attachment screws. Remove the
governor from the throttle body.
7. Remove the throttle shaft from the throttle body. Re-
move the seal retainers and seals from the throttle shaft.
If necessary, remove the bearings from the throttle body.
Cleaning
WARNING
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic, and
can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning sol-
vents, always follow the recommendations of the
manufacturer.
Make sure all the carburetor parts are clean before as-
sembly. Wash all the parts, except the diaphragm, in sol-
vent. Make sure the air passages in the metering valve
are clean.
13
 3 1

5*

24
6*
21
23 7*

21 8
22

21 10
9

20
19
18

1. COVER 17
2. SCREW
3. SPRING 14
4. DIAPHRAGM 16 15 13
5. SPACER* 12 14. IDLE STOP SCREW
6. GASKET* 11 15. THROTTLE SHAFT
7. SPACER* 16. THROTTLE PLATE
8. FUEL VALVE 17. RETAINER
9. CARBURETOR 18. SEAL
BODY 19. BEARING
10. IDLE MIXTURE 20. THROTTLE BODY
SCREW 21. GASKET
11. THROTTLE LEVER 22. ATTACHMENT PLATE
12. IDLE CONTROL LEVER 23. ADAPTER PLATE
13. IDLE SPEED SCREW *2.2L ENGINE ONLY 24. GOVERNOR

FIGURE 14. LPG CARBURETOR ASSEMBLY

Assembly (See FIGURE 14.) Use only HYSTER Approved repair kits when repairing
the carburetor.

NOTE: Use a liquid thread sealant on all fittings with 1. Install new bearings as needed in the throttle body.
threads at the carburetor. Install new seals in the throttle body. Install the seal re-
14
tainers and the throttle shaft. Install the throttle plate to
the throttle shaft using lock washers with the screws.
2. Install the governor on the throttle body. Connect the
throttle shaft to the governor. Reconnect the governor
spring. Install the cover on the governor.
3. Install the throttle body and attachment plate with
new gaskets to the carburetor body. Install the idle speed
spring and screw. Install the idle control actuator and
fuel solenoid valve.
4. Assemble the fuel metering valve, air measuring
plate, diaphragm and back–up plate. Install a new gasket
on the carburetor body. Install the dampener chamber,
then install the valve assembly in the carburetor body.
Install the metering spring and cover. Make sure the
spring is in the correct position before installing the cov-
er.
Installation (See FIGURE 1.)
NOTE: Use a liquid thread sealant on all fittings with
threads at the carburetor.
1. Install a new gasket on the manifold, then install the
carburetor on the manifold.
2. Install the balance line and the fuel hose. Install the
vacuum hose and check valve for the idle control actua-
tor. The GRAY side of the check valve must be toward
the idle control actuator.
CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS
WARNING
LPG can cause an explosion. Do not permit any
sparks or open flames in work area.
GOVERNOR SYSTEM
If the governor is removed or replaced, adjust the throt-
tle linkage as described in CHECKS AND ADJUST-
3. Connect the throttle linkage as shown in FIGURE 18.
Make sure the head of the pin is toward the carburetor.
4. Connect the wires at the solenoid valve.
5. Make sure the tee–fitting on the governor is installed
correctly, then connect the vacuum hoses at the gover-
nor. The tee–fitting has two different size orifices. The
black end of the fitting is the large orifice and goes to-
ward the governor solenoid valve. The red end of the fit-
ting is the small orifice and goes toward the governor.
The large orifice is 2.13 mm (0.094 in) and the small ori-
fice is 0.91 mm (0.036 in).
6. Connect the hose to the air cleaner.
7. Check and adjust the carburetor, throttle linkage and
idle control actuator as described in CHECKS AND
ADJUSTMENTS.
SOLENOID VALVE (See FIGURE 1.)
The solenoid valve cannot be repaired. If the solenoid
valve does not operate, it must be replaced.
1. Disconnect the hose from the air cleaner to the carbu-
retor inlet. Remove the fuel inlet hose. Disconnect the
wires at the solenoid valve. Remove the solenoid valve.
2. Use a liquid thread sealant and install the solenoid
valve on the carburetor. Connect the wires and fuel hose.
Connect the hose to the air cleaner. Turn the key switch
ON and OFF to check the operation of the solenoid
valve. Start the engine and check for leaks.
MENTS. If the governor is not operating correctly,
check the parts of the system as follows:
NOTE: The vacuum hoses installed on the carburetor
and governor are made of special high–temperature ma-
terial. If any of the hoses are replaced, make sure the cor-
rect hoses are installed.
1. Check the vacuum hoses and the diaphragm in the
governor for damage. Remove the plate on the side of
the governor and check that the linkage and spring move
freely.
15
2. Check the vacuum hoses for restrictions. Check the
tee–fitting at the diaphragm for restrictions. Make sure
the tee–fitting is correctly installed. There are orifices in
the fitting. The black end of the fitting (VAL) is for the
governor solenoid valve. The red end of the fitting
(GOV) is for the governor.
3. Use an ohmmeter to check the solenoid valve. Dis-
connect the wires at the solenoid valve. Measure the re-
sistance between the terminals of the solenoid valve.
The correct resistance is 22 to 25 ohms. Measure the re-
sistance between one of the terminals and the body of
the solenoid valve. The correct resistance is 800 ohms or
higher. If the readings are not correct, replace the sole-
noid valve. If the solenoid valve does not work, the gov-
ernor controller must also be checked. A bad solenoid
valve can damage the electronic controller.
4. Use a volt/ohmmeter to check the governor controller.
a. Disconnect the wiring harness at the controller.
Measure the resistance between the ground terminal in
the harness connector and the cowl. The correct resis-
tance is less than 3 ohms. If the circuit is open or the
resistance is high, check for a damaged wire.
b. Turn the key switch to the ON position. Do not start
the engine. Use the voltmeter to check for battery volt-
age at the terminals in the connector for the battery
and the solenoid. Check for damaged wires if the read-
ings are not correct.
c. Turn the key switch to the OFF position. Use an
ohmmeter to check the continuity of the signal input
wire. Check the wire between the distributor (ta-
chometer connector) and the harness connector.
5. If, after checking the solenoid valve, wiring, hoses
and the governor, the governor still does not operate cor-
rectly, replace the electronic controller.
CHECK THE FILTER UNIT
1. Check for leaks in the fuel valve by disconnecting the
fuel inlet hose at the vaporizer. Put the end of the hose in
a container of water. There must be no bubbles in the
water. If there are bubbles in the water, install a new
valve pad in the filter unit.
2. If there are no bubbles in the water, disable the igni-
tion system by disconnecting the plug with two termi-
nals at the ignition module.
16
WARNING
Do not remove an ignition secondary wire to cause an
open circuit. A spark can cause an explosion.
3. Turn the key momentarily to the START position to
cause a vacuum in the inlet manifold. Bubbles must ap-
pear in the container of water.
4. If there are no bubbles seen in step 2, check the vac-
uum hose for a restriction. If there is vacuum to the filter
unit, inspect the diaphragm for holes or cracks. Make
sure the tank has fuel and that the shut–off valve is open.
5. Connect the terminal plug at the ignition module.
CHECK THE VAPORIZER
Pressure Reducer Valve
Connect a pressure gauge that can measure with accu-
racy a pressure below 35 kPa (5 psi) to the test port of the
vaporizer. The gauge must indicate 10.5 kPa (1.5 psi)
when the engine is at idle. If the gauge indicates a pres-
sure greater than 10.5 kPa (1.5 psi), the pressure reducer
valve has damage.
Vapor Valve
1. Run the engine until it is warm.
2. To check for leaks, stop the engine and disconnect the
hose from the fuel inlet port at the carburetor. Put the end
of the hose just below the surface of water in a container.
If bubbles are seen, the vapor valve is damaged or is
dirty.
3. To check the vapor diaphragm, remove the inlet hose
to the vaporizer. Remove the inlet hose at the carburetor.
Put the end of the hose below the surface of the water in a
container. Remove the balance line from the carburetor
and apply air pressure to the line. If bubbles continue to
be seen in the water, the diaphragm is damaged.
ADJUST THE CARBURETOR
Idle Adjustments
(See FIGURE 15. And FIGURE 16.)
1. The engine must be at the normal operating tempera-
ture. Connect a tachometer to the engine.
2. Turn the idle speed screw (1) until the engine speed is
900 ± 50 rpm for the 2.2L engine or 800 ± 25 rpm for the
3.0L engine.
3. Changing the adjustment of the idle mixture screw (2) d. Install the vacuum hose and clamp to the idle con-
will change engine speed. Adjust the mixture screw (2) trol actuator (4).
for maximum engine rpm.

4. Check and adjust idle speed as necessary as described

in step 2. 1

5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 maximum idle speed from ad- 2

justing the idle mixture screw is the same specified idle
speed.

4 1

5
3

1. IDLE SPEED SCREW 4

2. IDLE MIXTURE SCREW
3. VACUUM HOSE CONNECTION
4. IDLE CONTROL ACTUATOR
5. IDLE CONTROL SCREW 12792

FIGURE 15. CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS, 5

2.2L ENGINE 1. IDLE SPEED SCREW
2. IDLE MIXTURE SCREW
3. VACUUM HOSE CONNECTION
6. Turn idle mixture screw OUT until idle speed begins 4. IDLE CONTROL ACTUATOR
5. IDLE CONTROL SCREW
to decrease. Turn idle mixture screw (2) IN 1/4 turn. 12898

FIGURE 16. CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS,

7. Check the idle control adjustment as follows:
a. Adjust the idle speed and mixture as described
above.
b. Adjust the idle control screw (5) until there is 0.1
to 0.2 mm (0.004 to 0.008 in) clearance between
the screw (5) and the rod in the actuator (4).
c. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the actuator
(3) and check engine speed. If engine speed is be-
low 1400 rpm, no adjustment is needed. If engine
speed is more than 1400 rpm, adjust the idle con-
trol screw (5) until engine speed is 1300 to 1400
rpm.
3.0L ENGINE
Power Mixture (See FIGURE 17.)
The power mixture valve controls the flow of fuel to the
carburetor when the engine is running near full load. Set
the power mixture valve at the 3/8 mark (toward the L)
for the 2.2L engine. For the 3.0L engine, set the power
mixture valve to the 1/2 mark for the H–series units and
to the 5/8 mark (toward the R) for the S–series. This set-
ting will be correct for most conditions. If an exhaust
analyzer is not available adjust the power mixture valve
as follows:

17
 and turn the power mixture valve until the reading on the
1. POWER VALVE exhaust gas analyzer is 0.5 to 1.0% CO (carbon monox-
1
ide) maximum.

ADJUST THE THROTTLE LINKAGE

(See FIGURE 18.)

NOTE: Power Valve shown at 1/2 position.
FIGURE 17. POWER MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT
CAUTION
During this test the mast must be fully extended.
Make sure there is enough overhead clearance in the
building or do the test outdoors.
1. Operate the lift truck until the engine, transmission
and hydraulic system are at normal operating tempera-
tures. Apply the parking brake.
2. Install an exhaust gas analyzer in the exhaust pipe.
Connect a tachometer to the engine. Start the engine and
fully extend the mast. Pull back on the LIFT lever to put
a load on the engine. Fully depress the accelerator pedal
CAUTION
The adjustment of the throttle cable must be correct
or the cable can break during operation. The accel-
erator pedal or the MONOTROL pedal must reach
the pedal stop (floor plate) by the time the throttle
plate in the carburetor is fully open.
NOTE: Each time the throttle system is disassembled, it
is important to adjust the throttle cable.
1. Adjust the idle speed as described in Idle Speed Ad-
justment.
2. Make sure the throttle linkage at the pedal assembly is
in the correct position.
3. Push the Monotrol or throttle pedal until it stops
against the floor plate. Adjust the throttle cable so that
the pedal stops against the floor plate. Depress the throt-
tle pedal until it stops against the floor plate just as the
throttle plate reaches the wide open position. Use the
nuts at the pedal end of the cable housing to change the
adjustment of the cable.

6
7
4

1
7

6 10
8
2

3
4
9 5
8
7. SPRING LINK
1. THROTTLE PEDAL 4. THROTTLE CABLE 8. THROTTLE RETURN SPRINGS
2. LINKAGE 5. ATTACHMENT PLATE 9. SPRING BRACKET
3. PIN 6. PIN 10. THROTTLE ARM (CARBURETOR)

FIGURE 18. THROTTLE CABLE ARRANGEMENT

18
 4. Adjust the pedal return stop (see FIGURE 19.) so that
1 there is no tension on the throttle cable at the idle posi-
1. PEDAL PAD
tion. Do the following to check this adjustment:
2. LINK
3. CRANK
a. Run the engine at idle speed. Make sure the rod
on the idle control actuator is retracted and the
LPG throttle linkage is against the idle control screw.
4
5
2
b. When the pedal return stop is in the correct posi-
tion, tighten the capscrew that holds the stop to
the bracket.
LPG 4

5. Check that the engine runs at its governed speed when

3 the accelerator pedal or the MONOTROL pedal reaches
the floor plate. The maximum speed with no load is
6 2900 ± 50 rpm for both the 2.2L and the 3.0L engine.

LPG
3.0L Check The Monotrol Pedal (See FIGURE 19.)
LPG
2.2L
LPG
4. PEDAL FRAME Slowly move the Monotrol pedal pad from Forward to
5. PEDAL RETURN STOP Reverse and Reverse to Forward. There must be some
6. CAPSCREW
movement of the pedal pad before the pedal frame
FIGURE 19. MONOTROL PEDAL moves and the throttle opens.

19
 TROUBLESHOOTING

PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE PROCEDURE OR ACTION

The engine will not start easi-
ly. The vaporizer is freezing.
Low coolant level.
Water hoses have a restriction or are
too small.
Air lock in coolant line to the vapor-
izer.
Hose from vaporizer to carburetor
has a leak.
Thermostat does not operate correct-
ly.
Ignition system or starter is dam-
aged.
Idle mixture screw is not adjusted cor-
rectly.
Fuel valve in carburetor is damaged.
Air filter is dirty.
Balance line is disconnected.
Accelerating too soon after engine is
started.
Solenoid valve is disconnected or not
working correctly.
Fill coolant system to correct level.
Install correct hoses.
Remove air from cooling system.
Install a new hose.
Install a new thermostat.
Check and repair ignition system or
starter.
Adjust carburetor.
Install new carburetor parts.
Clean or install a new filter.
Connect balance line.
Let engine become warm.
Check and repair solenoid valve.

Engine does not idle Idle mixture screw is not adjusted cor-
smoothly. rectly.
Diaphragm in carburetor is damaged.
Air leak between carburetor and gov-
ernor.
Air leak between governor and intake
manifold.
PCV system has a restriction.
Air leak at throttle shaft.
Hose from vaporizer to carburetor is
damaged.
Balance line is disconnected.
Pressure reducer diaphragm has a
hole.
Low pressure valve in vaporizer is
damaged.
Idle speed is too low.
Idle speed screw is loose.
Water in the fuel.
Fuel tank is installed in the wrong po-
sition.
Fuel valve on the tank is in the wrong
port.
Idle control actuator is not adjusted
correctly or hose is disconnected.
Adjust carburetor.
Install a new diaphragm.
Check gaskets and tighten nuts.
Check gaskets and tighten nuts.
Clean parts in PCV circuit.
Install a new carburetor body.
Install a new hose.
Connect balance line.
Install a new diaphragm.
Install a new valve.
Adjust carburetor.
Adjust carburetor.
Install a different fuel tank.
Install fuel tank correctly.
Install a different fuel tank.
Adjust carburetor or connect hose.

20
 TROUBLESHOOTING
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE PROCEDURE OR ACTION
Engine does not accelerate Not enough fuel reaching engine. Adjust carburetor. Check fuel lines.
smoothly. Fuel line to carburetor has a restric- Install a new fuel line.
tion or is too small.
Balance line has a restriction. Install a new balance line.
Vaporizer does not operate correctly. Repair vaporizer.
Parts of the the governor are dam- Repair governor.
aged.
Low pressure diaphragm or valve in Repair vaporizer.
vaporizer is damaged.
Wrong or damaged fuel valve in car- Repair carburetor.
buretor.
Idle speed is too high. Idle mixture screw is loose or not ad- Adjust carburetor.
justed correctly.
Idle control actuator is not adjusted Adjust carburetor or connect hose.
correctly or hose is disconnected.
Engine does not run PCV system has a restriction. Clean parts of PCV system.
smoothly. Air leaks in the intake manifold. Check gaskets and tighten nuts.
Balance line has a restriction. Install new balance line.
Low pressure diaphragm or valve in Repair vaporizer.
vaporizer is damaged.
Wrong or damaged fuel valve in car- Repair carburetor.
buretor.
Loss of power. Air filter is dirty. Clean or install a new filter.
PCV system has a restriction. Clean parts of PCV system.
Parts of the governor are damaged. Repair governor.
Power mixture valve is not adjusted Adjust carburetor.
correctly.
Hose from vaporizer to carburetor Install a new hose.
has leaks.
Diaphragm in carburetor is damaged. Repair carburetor.
Wrong type of fuel. Install a different fuel tank.
Hose from vaporizer to carburetor Install a new hose.
has a restriction or is too small.
Parts of the vaporizer are damaged. Repair vaporizer.
Ignition system does not operate cor- Check and repair ignition system.
rectly.

21
 TROUBLESHOOTING
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE PROCEDURE OR ACTION
Engine stops running. Shut–off valve on fuel tank is closed. Open valve.
Fuel tank is empty. Install a full fuel tank.
Vacuum line to filter unit is discon- Connect vacuum line.
nected.
Parts of the filter unit are damaged. Repair filter.
Parts of the vaporizer are damaged. Repair vaporizer.
Parts of the carburetor are damaged. Repair carburetor.
Hose to carburetor is damaged. Install a new hose.
Idle speed is too low. Adjust carburetor.
Water in the fuel. Install a different fuel tank.
Fuel filter is dirty. Install a new filter element.
Parts of the governor are damaged. Repair governor.
Air leak at the intake manifold. Check gasket and tighten nuts.
Ignition system does not operate cor- Check and repair ignition system.
rectly.
Solenoid valve is disconnected or not Check and repair solenoid.
working correctly.

22
 INTRODUCTION
GENERAL small venturi. An automatic choke controls the choke
plate and the fast idle cam. An idle control actuator
This section has the description, operation, and the ser- changes the throttle position to keep the idle speed
vice procedures for the gasoline carburetor and the gov- steady when the engine load changes. A fuel solenoid
ernor. valve stops the engine quickly when the ignition switch
is turned to the OFF position.
DESCRIPTION
There are six basic systems in the carburetor. The sys-
Carburetor (See FIGURE 1.)
tems control the flow of fuel with the air flow in the car-
The carburetor has one large passage with a large and a buretor.

1. IDLE ACTUATOR
1 2. DELAY VALVE
3. GOVERNOR
4. IDLE MIXTURE SCREW
5. GOVERNOR ADJUSTMENTS
6. VACUUM HOSE FOR GOVERNOR
7. SOLENOID (SHUT–OFF VALVE)
8. ACCELERATOR PUMP
9. FUEL INLET
10. THROTTLE LINKAGE
7 11. CHOKE RELEASE MECHANISM

2
6

4
5
3

11

10
12795
9 8

FIGURE 1. PARTS OF THE CARBURETOR

1
The carburetor makes sure the correct air to fuel mixture from the seat. Fuel enters the float chamber again until
goes to the combustion chambers under the different op- the level of fuel is correct. This cycle continues during
erating conditions of the engine. The systems are as fol- the operation of the engine to keep a constant level of
lows: fuel in the float chamber. The float chamber has a vent
• Float System that goes to the bore of the carburetor above the choke
plate. This vent keeps the air in the float chamber at the
• Idle System
same pressure as the air that enters the carburetor.
• Main Metering System
• Power System Idle System (See FIGURE 3.)
• Accelerator Pump System The idle system is used when the engine is at or near idle
• Choke System. speed. When the throttle is open just enough to allow the
engine to idle, there is a high vacuum at the engine side
Governor of the throttle plate. The higher pressure of the air in the
float chamber pushes fuel through an idle port that is lo-
The pneumatic governor controls the maximum engine
cated just below the throttle plate. The fuel moves from
speed even when the engine load changes. The governor
the float chamber through metering jets and into a tube.
moves its throttle plate as needed to control the speed of
The pressure difference also moves air through air jets
the engine.
into the tube where it becomes bubbles in the fuel. This
OPERATION OF THE CARBURETOR mixture then flows through an idle passage to the idle
port and the slow speed port.
Float System (See FIGURE 2.)
The float system controls the level of the fuel that is in 1
the float chamber. The carburetor receives fuel from the 9 2
fuel pump through the fuel inlet valve. The inlet valve
has a needle that makes a seal on the valve seat. 4

5 2
1
3

8
4

7 5
3 6
12795
1. AIR JET FOR SLOW SPEED
2. SMALL AIR JET FOR SLOW SPEED
3. FUEL/AIR JET
4. FUEL JET FOR SLOW SPEED
12795 5. MAIN JET
1. FUEL INLET 6. IDLE MIXTURE SCREW
2. SCREEN 4. INLET VALVE NEEDLE 7. IDLE PORT
3. FLOAT 5. INLET VALVE SEAT 8. SLOW SPEED PORT
9. FUEL SOLENOID VALVE
FIGURE 2. FUEL INLET AND FLOAT SYSTEM
FIGURE 3. IDLE CIRCUITS
As the fuel enters the float chamber, the float raises.
IDLE CONTROL ACTUATOR (See FIGURE 1.)
When the level of the fuel is correct, the needle is held
against the seat and stops the flow of fuel. When the lev- The idle control actuator increases the throttle opening
el of fuel lowers in the float chamber, the needle moves when a load is applied to the engine at idle. The system

2
has an actuator diaphragm, delay valve, and an arm on
the throttle shaft. When the engine is not under a load,
manifold vacuum holds the actuating rod in a disen-
gaged position. When a load is applied to the engine, the
vacuum decreases and the diaphragm spring extends the
actuating rod. The rod pushes on the throttle arm to open
the throttle plate.
IDLE COMPENSATOR VALVE (See FIGURE 4.)
The idle compensator valve allows more air to flow into
the fuel mixture when the temperature at the carburetor
is high.. The idle compensator valve has a spring made
of two different metals. The spring bends when the tem-
perature increases. At high temperatures, the spring
opens the idle compensator valve and additional air
flows through a passage to a opening below the throttle
plate.
AIR
1
2 This action stops the engine quickly.
3 Main Metering System (See FIGURE 5.)
12795
AIR
1. TEMPERATURE SENSOR SPRING
2. IDLE COMPENSATOR VALVE
3. AIR JET
FIGURE 4. IDLE COMPENSATOR VALVE
IDLE METERING SYSTEM (See FIGURE 3.)
The amount of fuel that flows through the idle port is
controlled with the idle mixture screw. The inner end of
the adjustment screw has a needle that fits in a seat in the
idle port. Turn the adjustment screw counterclockwise
to increase the flow of fuel through the idle port. Turn
the adjustment screw clockwise to decrease the flow of
fuel through the port.
Additional air and fuel is needed to increase the engine
speed above idle. When the throttle is opened a small
amount, the vacuum below the throttle plate decreases.
With the decrease in vacuum, less fuel flows from the
idle port. An off-idle port is used to add fuel when the
vacuum is low. The slow speed port is above the idle
port. When the throttle plate is opened just past the slow
speed port, the vacuum at the slow speed port increases.
The engine uses the fuel and air mixture provided by
both the idle and the slow speed ports at this throttle
position.
SOLENOID VALVE (SHUT–OFF VALVE)
(See FIGURE 3.)
The fuel solenoid valve prevents the engine from run-
ning when the ignition switch is turned to the OFF posi-
tion. The solenoid is energized when the switch is in the
ON position. When energized, a plunger in the solenoid
retracts and opens the passage for fuel and air in the idle
circuit. When the ignition switch is in the OFF position,
the plunger extends and closes the passage to the ports.
The main metering system controls the flow of fuel for
the engine above idle speed. When the throttle plate
opens past the idle ports, more air enters the engine . The
increase in air flow through the main venturi causes a
high vacuum at the small venturi. As a result of the vacu-
um, fuel starts to flow through a nozzle at the small ven-
turi. When the engine speed increases, the flow of fuel
through the main metering system increases.
The fuel flows from the float chamber, through the main
jet and into the passage with the mixture tube. Air flows
to the tube through an air passage that connects to the
main venturi. When the fuel flows up the passage, it
joins the air that entered through the holes in the tube.
The fuel with air bubbles flows to the main nozzle at the
small venturi.
3
 This action prevents the engine from receiving the cor-
6 rect amount of fuel vapor needed for combustion. When
the choke plate is closed, the air pressure between the
1 choke plate and the throttle plate decreases. The higher
5 air pressure in the float chamber pushes fuel out the
main metering system and increases the flow of fuel to
4 the engine.
The automatic choke uses the following three systems to
operate the choke plate.
VACUUM DIAPHRAGM

3 A vacuum diaphragm (choke release) system opens the

choke part way when starting the engine. Vacuum from
the intake manifold actuates the diaphragm. A lever
12795
2 connected to the diaphragm opens the choke plate. An
1. MAIN AIR JET air jet is connected to the vacuum hose between the dia-
2. MAIN JET 5. MAIN NOZZLE phragm and the intake manifold. The delay valve is a re-
3. MIXTURE TUBE 6. AIR JET striction in the hose that prevents the choke from open-
4. SMALL VENTURI FOR MAIN NOZZLE
ing too fast. A return spring at the diaphragm returns the
FIGURE 5. MAIN METERING SYSTEM lever to the closed position when the engine is not run-
ning.

Choke System (See FIGURE 6.) TEMPERATURE SENSOR SYSTEM

The choke system causes more fuel to be added to the air As the engine warms up, a temperature sensor system
flow for starting and running a cold engine. Until the en- fully opens the choke plate. There is a cavity in the
gine warms up, some fuel will change back to liquid choke housing filled with a special wax. When the en-
when it touches the cold cylinders and the intake man- gine coolant gets warm, the heat expands the wax in the
ifold passages. bore. The wax pushes a plunger against the choke lever.
As the lever rotates, gears on the lever and the choke
shaft move the choke plate to the fully open position. A
2
1 return spring at the choke lever returns the choke plate to
the closed position when the engine is not running.
CHOKE RELEASE MECHANISM
The choke release mechanism opens the choke plate
when the throttle pedal is fully pushed. The choke re-
3
lease linkage connects the throttle shaft to the choke
shaft. This system is used when trying to start a cold en-
gine that has received too much fuel.
6
5 4
Power System (See FIGURE 7.)
The power system increases the amount of fuel when the
12795 engine is under a load or during acceleration. The power
3. DELAY VALVE system uses a piston with a spring and a power valve.
1. CHOKE PLATE 4. ENGINE COOLANT During high vacuum at idle, the vacuum pulls the piston
2. VACUUM 5. SPECIAL WAX against the spring. The vacuum holds the piston and the
DIAPHRAGM 6. THROTTLE PLATE
piston does not touch the power valve. When the engine
FIGURE 6. CHOKE SYSTEM is running near full power, intake manifold vacuum is

4
low. With the decrease in vacuum, the spring pushes the
7
piston rod against the power valve. The power valve
opens and permits additional fuel to flow from the float
chamber. The fuel flows through a power jet into the 6 5
main fuel passage. 8 4

3 3
9
4 1 2 12795
1
1. CAM 6. OUTLET CHECK
2. INLET CHECK VALVE
8 VALVE 7. NOZZLE
3. LINKAGE 8. MAIN VENTURI
4. PLUNGER 9. THROTTLE
5. DIAPHRAGM PLATE
5
FIGURE 8. ACCELERATOR PUMP SYSTEM
12795
6
7 When the throttle plate is closed on deceleration, a re-
1. AIR FROM INTAKE turn spring on the other side of the diaphragm pushes the
MANIFOLD 5. MIXTURE TUBE
2. POWER PISTON 6. MAIN JET diaphragm and plunger assembly back. The outlet valve
3. MAIN NOZZLE 7. POWER JET spring pushes the ball against the seat and prevents fuel
4. SMALL VENTURI 8. POWER VALVE from leaving the chamber. The diaphragm movement
FIGURE 7. POWER SYSTEM causes a vacuum that opens the inlet valve and pulls fuel
into the pump chamber.
Accelerator Pump System (See FIGURE 8.)
GOVERNOR (See FIGURE 1.)
The accelerator pump has a mechanically operated dia-
phragm, an inlet valve, and an outlet valve. The acceler- The governor keeps the engine speed at the specification
ator pump plunger is actuated by linkage connected to limit under all load conditions when the throttle plate in
the throttle shaft. When the throttle is opened on accel- the carburetor is fully open. The governor measures the
eration, the linkage pushes the plunger against a spring air pressure above and below the carburetor throttle
that touches the diaphragm. The spring compresses and plate. A piston adjusts the governor throttle plate as
pushes the diaphragm to move fuel from the accelerator needed to maintain the correct engine speed. A leaf
pump chamber through the outlet check valve. An inlet spring and a coil spring are used to control the tension of
check valve closes to prevent flow of fuel back to the the governor throttle plate. The adjustment screw
float chamber. The fuel flows through the accelerator changes the number of coils used by the coil spring. The
pump nozzle into the main venturi. adjustment wheel changes the tension of the coil spring.

5
 REPAIRS
GOVERNOR
NOTE: Parts are not available for repairing the gover-
nor. If the governor needs repair, replace it with a new
governor. If the governor is replaced, adjust the gover-
nor as described in CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS.
NOTE: The vacuum hoses installed on the governor are
made of special high–temperature material. If any of the
hoses are replaced, make sure the correct hoses are
installed.
CARBURETOR
Removal (See FIGURE 1.)
WARNING
Keep all fire and sparks away from the area used for
removal and disassembly. To prevent electrical
sparks, disconnect the negative cable at the battery.
NOTE: The carburetor and governor use the same
mount studs. Remove the carburetor and the governor as
a single unit.
Use tags for the identification and location of the vacu-
um and engine coolant hoses before the removal of the
carburetor and the governor.
1. Disconnect the air filter hose and the vacuum hoses at
the air inlet tube on the carburetor.
2. Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor. Put a cap on
the open fuel line.
3. Disconnect the throttle cable at the carburetor. Dis-
connect the solenoid wire at the connector.
4. Disconnect the vacuum hoses at the governor.
5. Disconnect the engine coolant lines at the carburetor
and the governor.
6. Remove the two nuts from the studs that fasten the
carburetor and the governor to the intake manifold. Re-
move the carburetor and the governor from the intake
manifold.
Disassembly
(See FIGURE 9. and FIGURE 10.)
1. Remove the two nuts that fasten the air inlet tube to
the carburetor. Remove the air inlet tube from the carbu-
retor.
6
2. Use tags for the location of the vacuum hoses before
disassembly of the carburetor. Remove the vacuum
hoses from the carburetor.
3. Remove the five screws that fasten the air horn to the
float bowl housing. Separate the air horn from the hous-
ing. The idle compensator valve fits loosely in the hous-
ing and will fall out if the housing is turned upside down.
4. Remove the two screws and lock washers that fasten
the throttle body to the float bowl housing. Separate the
throttle body from the housing. Remove the plastic
spacer and the gaskets.
5. Remove the screw and the retainer for the power pis-
ton. Remove the power piston and the spring from the
bore.
6. Remove the pivot pin at the float. Remove the float
and the inlet valve. Be careful when removing the float
from the inlet body. If the tabs on the float are bent dur-
ing removal, the float will not be adjusted correctly. Re-
move the inlet valve seat from the air horn.
7. Remove the three screws from the cover of the choke
release mechanism. Carefully remove the cover and the
return spring. Remove the diaphragm and lever.
8. Remove the idle compensator valve from the float
bowl housing.
9. Carefully lift the outlet nozzle for the accelerator
pump and the retainer for the nozzle from the slot in the
float bowl housing. Remove the spring and the check
ball from the bore.
10. Remove the slow speed jet from the float bowl hous-
ing. Remove the float chamber plug and washer to reach
the main jet. Remove the main jet and washer from the
float bowl housing.
11. Remove the four screws and washers from the cover
of the accelerator pump. Carefully remove the cover, di-
aphragm and return spring from the float bowl housing.
12. Remove the idle control actuator and the solenoid
valve from the float bowl housing.
 19

1 D

C
2

A B

3 5
4
C
D
7 6
8
18
9

10
12 B
E
11 13

14

16
17
15
E

1. AIR HORN
2. VACUUM HOSE 9. IDLE JET 15. IDLE SOLENOID
3. FLOAT 10. IDLE ACTUATOR (FUEL SHUT–OFF)
4. STRAINER AND FUEL VALVE 11. DRAIN PLUG 16. IDLE MIXTURE SCREW
5. POWER VALVE 12. ACCELERATOR PUMP 17. THROTTLE BODY
6. IDLE COMPENSATOR ASSEMBLY 18. CHOKE ACTUATOR
7. O–RING 13. FLOAT BOWL HOUSING ASSEMBLY
8. NOZZLE 14. GASKETS 19. CHOKE RELEASE

7
13. Remove the idle mixture screw and spring from the
throttle body.
Cleaning
WARNING
The solvent for cleaning carburetors is very flam-
mable. Carefully follow the instructions of the
manufacturer.
Dirt or water inside or outside the carburetor is often the
cause of carburetor problems. It is important that the
carburetor be completely cleaned before assembly.
Wash all the metal carburetor parts with a carburetor
cleaning solvent. Do not use cleaning solvent to clean
the float, choke diaphragm, accelerator pump dia-
phragm, solenoid valve, and the idle control actuator.
Do not use cleaning fluid on the O-rings at the idle com-
pensator port and the accelerator pump nozzle. Remove
the O-rings before cleaning the carburetor. Be careful
when cleaning the plastic and nylon parts on the carbu-
retor. Follow the instructions of the cleaning solvent
manufacturer for cleaning plastic and nylon.
CAUTION
Do not use a wire brush to clean any parts of the car-
buretor. Do not use a drill or wire to clean the jets or
passages of the carburetor.
WARNING
Compressed air can cause small particles to enter
your skin. Always wear protective goggles when us-
ing compressed air.
Use compressed air to clean the jets and passages of the
carburetor. Do not use compressed air on the dia-
phragms.
Use a clean cloth for cleaning the parts that cannot be
cleaned in solvent.
Inspection
Inspect the carburetor parts for correct operation, wear
or damage. Replace the carburetor parts or the carbure-
tor as necessary.
1. Inspect the carburetor body for cracks, distortion or
other damage. Inspect each gasket surface for damage.
8
2. Inspect the choke plate, shaft and linkage for wear and
damage. Check for rough edges on the choke plate.
Make sure the choke plate moves freely. Inspect the
choke return springs for distortion and damage. Inspect
the vacuum break diaphragm and return spring for dam-
age.
3. Inspect the throttle plate, shaft, and linkage for wear
or damage. Check for rough edges on the throttle plate.
Make sure the throttle plate moves freely. Inspect the
throttle bushings and return springs for damage.
4. Inspect the accelerator pump diaphragm and return
spring for damage. Make sure the passage in the acceler-
ator pump nozzle is open.
5. Check the operation of the power valve and piston.
The power valve and piston must move freely in their
bores. Make sure the piston and the piston bore are
clean. Check the piston spring for damage. Inspect the
spring and retainer clip on the power valve for damage.
6. Inspect the idle compensator valve and O–ring for
damage. Check the metal spring for damage. Replace
the valve if it is in the open position.
7. Inspect the carburetor jets for wear or damage.
8. Inspect the float and inlet valve for wear and damage.
Make sure the needle moves freely in the seat. Make
sure the inlet screen is clean.
9. Inspect the carburetor screws and nuts for damaged
threads.
10. Inspect the hoses for damage. Check the hoses for a
good seal at the ports.
11. Inspect the seal on the carburetor inlet tube.
Assembly (See FIGURE 9. and FIGURE 10.)
NOTE: Use new gaskets and diaphragms during the as-
sembly of the carburetor.
1. Install the gaskets and the spacer on the throttle body.
Hold the throttle linkage in the open position and install
the float bowl housing on the throttle body. Install and
tighten the two screws.
2. Install the idle mixture screw and spring in the throttle
body.
3. Install the diaphragm in the accelerator pump cover.
Put the return spring into position on the diaphragm.
Install the return spring and the cover on the float bowl
housing. When the cover is installed, the roller on the
pump lever must be aligned with the cam on the throttle
shaft. Put the roller in a position so that the throttle shaft
cam activates the roller and pump assembly when the
throttle is opened. Install and tighten the four screws and
washers.
4. Install the check ball and the spring in the outlet pas-
sage of the accelerator pump. Install the accelerator
pump nozzle in the float bowl housing.
5. Install the main jet and washer in the float bowl hous-
ing. Install the drain plug and washer in the housing.
Install the slow speed jet in the housing
6. Install the solenoid valve in the float bowl housing.
7. Install the power piston and spring in the air horn.
Install the retainer and screw for the power piston. Make
sure the piston moves freely in the bore.
8. Install the choke release diaphragm and lever on the
air horn. Install the lever behind a tab on the air horn. Put
the end of the diaphragm lever against the choke plate
lever. The alignment is correct if the choke plate opens
when the end of the diaphragm lever is pushed. Install
the spring in the diaphragm cover. Install the spring and
cover on the diaphragm and the air horn. Install and
tighten the three screws and washers. Connect the vacu-
um hose and delay valve to the release diaphragm. Make
sure the yellow end of the delay valve is toward the dia-
phragm.
9. Install the inlet valve seat in the float bowl housing.
Put the inlet needle in position on the float tab. Lower
the inlet needle into the inlet seat while aligning the float
hinge with the hinge mount hole. Connect the float
hinge to the housing with the float hinge shaft. Make
sure the inlet needle moves freely in the seat when the
float is raised and lowered. Check and adjust the float as
follows:
a. Hold the float bowl housing in a vertical position
so that the float hinge is above the float. The tab
on the float hinge must lightly push the needle of
the fuel inlet valve. Measure the distance from
the closest part of the float to the cover. This dis-
tance must be 10 mm (0.39 in). This setting keeps
the fuel level in the float chamber at 20mm (0.78
in) below the top edge of the float chamber when
the engine is running.
b. To change the float setting, carefully bend the tab
on the float hinge assembly that touches the
needle valve. Measure the distance between the
float and the inlet cover to make sure that the set-
ting is correct.
10. Install the O–ring for the idle compensator valve in
the float bowl housing. Install the idle compensator
valve in the housing. See FIGURE 10.
2
1
1. O–RING
2. IDLE COMPENSATOR
VALVE
FIGURE 10. IDLE COMPENSATOR
11. Install the air horn and gasket to the float bowl hous-
ing. Install and tighten the screws. Install the solenoid in
the float bowl housing.
12. Install the idle actuator on the float bowl housing.
Install the check valve and vacuum hoses. Make sure the
arrow on the check valve is toward the idle actuator.
Installation (See FIGURE 11.)
NOTE: The vacuum and engine coolant hoses installed
on the carburetor and governor are made of special
high–temperature material. If any of the hoses are re-
placed, make sure the correct hoses are installed.
1. Install the governor and gasket on the engine man-
ifold studs. Install the carburetor and gasket on the gov-
ernor. Install and tighten the nuts on the studs.
9
 2. Connect the vacuum hoses to the carburetor and gov-
1 ernor. For the location of the hoses, see FIGURE 11.
8 2 3. Connect the engine coolant hoses to the carburetor
3 and governor. For the location of the hoses, see
7
6
FIGURE 11.
4. Connect the solenoid wire.
5. Connect the throttle cable to the carburetor.
6. Install the air inlet tube on the carburetor. Install and
5 4 tighten the two nuts. Connect the inlet tube to the air fil-
1. PLUG ter hose.
2. TO ENGINE COOLANT
3. TO AIR INLET TUBE
4. TO IDLE SPEED ACTUATOR
5. TO ENGINE COOLANT
6. TO DISTRIBUTOR
7. TO CARBURETOR
8. TO CHOKE RELEASE MECHANISM
FIGURE 11. GOVERNOR CONNECTIONS

CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS

CARBURETOR

Idle Speed and Mixture Adjustment

(See FIGURE 12.)
1

1. The engine must be at the normal operating tempera-

ture. Stop the engine. Apply the parking brake. Check 2
that the choke plate is fully open. Connect a tachometer
4
to the engine.

2. Put the transmission in NEUTRAL. Start the engine. 5

See FIGURE 12. Turn the idle speed screw (1) until the
idle speed is 700 to 750 rpm. Use an exhaust gas analyz- 3
6
er to check that the CO (carbon monoxide) reading is 0.3
to 1.0% at idle.

3. Turn the idle mixture screw (2) until the tachometer

indicates the highest idle speed. Repeat step 2 and step 3 1. IDLE SPEED SCREW
2. IDLE MIXTURE SCREW
until the idle speed is 700 to 750 rpm. 3. IDLE CONTROL SCREW
4. CONTROL ROD 12792
5. IDLE CONTROL ACTUATOR
CAUTION 6. VACUUM HOSE CONNECTION
The mixture screw will be damaged if tightened
FIGURE 12. CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS
against its seat.

10
4. Check the idle control adjustments:
a. Adjust the idle speed and mixture as described
above.
b. With the engine running at idle speed, adjust the
idle control screw (3) so that there is 0.1 to 0.2
mm (0.004 to 0.008 in) clearance between the
screw and the control rod (4).
c. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the idle con-
trol actuator (5). Put a plug in the end of the hose.
Check that the idle speed increases to 1225 to
1400 rpm.
d. Connect the vacuum hose and clamp to the idle
control actuator (5). Check that the clearance be-
tween the idle control screw (3) and the control
rod (4) is still 0.1 to 0.2 mm (0.004 to 0.008 in).
Adjust the idle control screw as necessary to ob-
tain the correct clearance. It is important that the
idle control screw does not touch the control rod
while the engine is running at idle.
5. Check that the engine runs at its governed speed when
the accelerator pedal or the MONOTROL pedal
reaches the floor plate. If necessary, adjust the throttle
cable at the bracket on the engine. Loosen the lock nuts
and move the cable as necessary. Check that the maxi-
mum engine speed is 2600 to 2700 rpm.
pedal stop (floor plate) by the time the throttle plate
in the carburetor is fully open.
NOTE: Each time the throttle system is disassembled, it
is important to adjust the throttle cable.
Adjust the throttle pedal when the engine is running at
idle and at the normal operating temperature.
With the engine at idle and the throttle pedal released,
adjust the up–position pedal stop until the tension is re-
moved from the throttle cable.
1. Adjust the idle speed as described in Idle Speed Ad-
justment.
2. Make sure the throttle linkage at the pedal assembly is
in the correct position.
3. Push the throttle pedal until it stops against the floor
plate. Adjust the throttle cable so that the pedal stops on
the floor plate just as the throttle plate reaches the wide
open position. Use the nuts at the pedal end of the cable
housing to change the adjustment of the cable.
4. Adjust the pedal stop so that the pedal and throttle
lever reach the full return positions at the same time.

6. When adjustments are complete, check the fuel mix-

ture for the power system with an exhaust gas analyzer
as follows:
a. Install an exhaust gas analyzer in the exhaust
pipe. Connect a tachometer to the engine. Start 1
the engine and pull back on the TILT lever to put a
load on the engine. Fully depress the accelerator
pedal and check the reading on the exhaust gas
analyzer. The correct reading is 0.5 to 1.0% CO
(carbon monoxide) maximum.
2
b. If the reading is not correct, the power jet or other
4
parts of the power system need to be replaced.

3
THROTTLE LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT
(See FIGURE 13. and FIGURE 14.) 1. PEDAL LINKAGE
2. PIN
CAUTION 3. COTTER PIN
4. THROTTLE CABLE
The adjustment of the throttle cable must be correct
or it can break during operation. The accelerator FIGURE 13. THROTTLE CABLE
pedal or the MONOTROL pedal must reach the ARRANGEMENT

11
Check the MONOTROL Pedal turned more than this the governor can be difficult to ad-
(See FIGURE 14. ) just.
NOTE: Move the MONOTROL pedal by applying Before making any adjustments to the governor, check
pressure to the inner edge of the pedal buttons. the following:

Slowly move the MONOTROL pedal from FORWARD
to REVERSE and from REVERSE to FORWARD.
There must be some movement of the pedal pad before
the pedal frame moves and the throttle opens.
1
• Make sure the mechanical, electrical, and fuel
systems are operating correctly.
• Make sure the tachometer will work with the
ignition system.
• Make sure the air filter is clean and connected to
the carburetor.
1

4
8
2
8 2
3
1. MAIN ADJUSTMENT WHEEL
4
2. SECONDARY ADJUSTMENT SCREW
3. LOCK SCREW
FIGURE 15. GOVERNOR ADJUSTMENT

Apply the parking brake. With the engine at operating

temperature, adjust the governor as follows:
1. Remove the lock wire from the governor lock screw.
Loosen the governor lock screw.
3
8 7 8
2. With no load on the engine, run the engine at full open
throttle to obtain maximum engine speed. To adjust the
1. PEDAL PAD
maximum no load speed, hold the secondary adjustment
2. LINK
6 5 screw and turn the main adjustment wheel. Turn the
3. CRANK
4. PEDAL FRAME main adjusting wheel clockwise to increase engine
5. FORWARD SOLENOID (BLACK WIRE) speed and counterclockwise to decrease engine speed.
6. BATTERY (RED WIRE)
Set the maximum engine speed to 2600 to 2700 rpm.
7. REVERSE SOLENOID (YELLOW WIRE)
8. CORRECT HOLES FOR THE LINKAGE 3. Tighten the governor lock screw.
FIGURE 14. MONOTROL PEDAL AND
4. Run the engine with the throttle fully open, then pull
LINKAGE
on the tilt lever to load the engine. The governor setting
is correct when the engine runs smoothly (without speed
GOVERNOR ADJUSTMENTS changes), and the difference in speed between the load
(See FIGURE 15. and FIGURE 16.) and no load conditions is within the limits of the specifi-
cations.
The governor does not normally need adjustment. If ad-
justment is necessary, do not turn the adjustment screws 5. If the engine speed changes, loosen the lock screw and
more than 1/4 turn at a time. If the adjustment screws are turn the secondary adjustment screw 1/4 turn clockwise.

12
Set the maximum no load engine speed by turning the
main adjustment wheel counterclockwise. Repeat this
procedure until the engine speed is steady.
6. If the engine speed difference between the load and no
load conditions is greater than specified, turn the main
adjustment wheel 1/4 turn clockwise. Set the maximum
no load engine speed by turning the secondary adjust-
ment screw counterclockwise. Repeat this procedure
until the engine runs correctly.
7. When the governor adjustment is correct, tighten the
lock screw and install wire between the lock screw and
the secondary adjustment screw.

2
3

1. MAIN ADJUSTMENT WHEEL

2. SECONDARY ADJUSTMENT
SCREW
3. LOCK SCREW

FIGURE 16. GOVERNOR ADJUSTMENTS

13

TROUBLE
The engine will not start or is
difficult to start.
The smoke from the exhaust
is black.
The engine does not run
smoothly at idle with light load
or hot conditions.
The engine speed is faster
than the specified governor
limit.
14
TROUBLESHOOTING
POSSIBLE CAUSE
1. The fuel solenoid valve is not
operating correctly.
2. The choke release diaphragm is
damaged.
3. The vacuum hose for the choke
diaphragm has a restriction.
4. The diaphragm vacuum hose is
disconnected or has a leak.
5. The air jet for the choke release
diaphragm has a restriction.
6. The screen at the fuel inlet valve
has a restriction.
7. The inlet valve needle does not
move.
8. The choke plate does not move
correctly.
1. The air filter has restrictions.
2. The engine inlet valve(s) will not
close or has damage.
3. The carburetor float adjustment is
not correct (fuel level is too high).
4. The float has damage.
5. The choke plate does not move.
6. The coolant hose has a restriction.
7. The choke linkage is not
connected.
1. The idle compensator valve does
not open when hot.
2. The idle speed diaphragm has
leaks.
3. The delay valve is not operating
correctly.
4. The delay valve is not installed
correctly.
5. The vacuum hose to the idle
speed diaphragm has leaks.
1. The adjustment of the governor is
not correct.
2. The governor is not operating
correctly.
PROCEDURE OR ACTION
1. Install new fuel solenoid valve.
2. Install new diaphragm.
3. Remove restriction or install new
hose.
4. Connect hose. Repair leak.
5. Check, clean, or install new parts
as required.
6. Clean the screen.
7. Check, clean, or install new parts
as required.
8. Repair choke plate or overhaul
carburetor.
1. Check air restriction indicator.
Clean or install new filter element.
2. Adjust valves. Grind valves. Install
new valve springs.
3. Check and adjust float level.
4. Install new float. Check and adjust
float level.
5. Repair choke plate or overhaul
carburetor.
6. Remove restriction. Install new
hose.
7. Connect and adjust choke linkage.
1. Repair or install new idle
compensator valve.
2. Install new diaphragm.
3. Install new delay valve.
4. Install delay valve correctly.
5. Check vacuum hose. Install new
hose.
1. Adjust governor.
2. Install new governor.
 TROUBLESHOOTING
TROUBLE POSSIBLE CAUSE
The engine does not run 1. The vacuum hose has restrictions.
smoothly at idle.
2. The fuel solenoid valve is not
operating correctly.
3. The choke system does not
operate correctly.
4. The adjustment for the float
mechanism is not correct.
5. The fuel inlet screen has
restrictions.
6. The throttle assembly is worn or
bent.
7. The fast idle speed is too slow.
8. The idle speed is too slow.
9. The adjustment for the idle
mixture is not correct.
10. The PCV system is not operating
correctly.
11. The air filter has restrictions.
12. The air jets have restrictions.
13. Ice is on the throttle plate at 32 to
40
F (0 to 5
C) air temperature.
The engine does not 1. The fuel pressure is too low.
accelerate smoothly.
2. The air filter has a restriction.
3. The adjustment of the carburetor
float mechanism is not correct.
4. The fuel inlet screen has a
restriction.
5. The main jet has a restriction.
6. The operation of the throttle valve
is not correct.
7. The operation of the fuel solenoid
valve is not correct.
8. The operation of the power piston
is not correct.
9. The operation of the power valve
is not correct.
10. The accelerator pump is not
operating correctly.
11. The inlet check valve has a
restriction or is damaged.
12. The outlet check valve has a
restriction or is damaged.
PROCEDURE OR ACTION
1. Remove restriction or install new
hose.
2. Install new fuel solenoid valve.
3. Check, clean, and repair choke
system.
4. Check and adjust float level.
5. Clean the screen.
6. Repair throttle assembly. Overhaul
carburetor. Install new carburetor.
7. Adjust fast idle speed.
8. Adjust idle speed.
9. Adjust the idle mixture.
10. Check and clean PCV system.
Install new PCV valve.
11. Check air restriction indicator.
Clean or install new filter element.
12. Clean or install new air jets.
13. Heat inlet air. Operate in warmer
and drier air.
1. Check fuel pressure. Install new
fuel pump.
2. Check air restriction indicator.
Clean or install new filter element.
3. Adjust float level.
4. Clean the screen.
5. Clean or install new main jet.
6. Repair throttle assembly. Overhaul
carburetor. Install new carburetor.
7. Install new fuel solenoid valve.
8. Check, clean, or install new power
piston. Overhaul carburetor.
9. Check, clean, or install new power
valve. Overhaul carburetor.
10. Repair, clean or install new
acceleration pump.
11. Check, clean, or install new parts
as required.
12. Check, clean, or install new parts
as required.
15
 INTRODUCTION

GENERAL
This section has the description, operation and the repair
procedures for the parts of the LPG fuel system used on
the MAZDA M4–2.0G engine.
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION.
The LPG fuel system has a fuel tank and valve, hydro-
static relief valve, fuel filter and fuel valve unit, vapor-
izer, carburetor, solenoid valve, fuel pressure sensor and
indicator lamp, and a governor. The LPG arrangement
for the S/H1.50–1.75XM, S/H2.00XMS
(S/H25–35XM, H40XMS) units is shown FIGURE 1.
The LPG arrangement for the S/H2.00–3.20XM
(S/H40–65XM) units is shown FIGURE 2.

1. LPG TANK
2. SHUT–OFF VALVE
3. RELIEF VALVE
4. FUEL VALVE/FILTER
5. LIQUID LPG HOSE
6. LPG VAPOR HOSE
7. VAPORIZER
8. COOLING SYSTEM HOSES
9. VACUUM LINE
10. PRESSURE SWITCH 2
11. LPG CARBURETOR

11
3
9
5

6 10

FIGURE 1. LPG SYSTEM, S/H1.50–1.75XM, S/H2.00XMS (S/H25–35XM, H40XMS)

1
 1
13
12
2
11 15

10 14

9
4

1. LPG TANK
2. SHUT–OFF VALVE
3. RELIEF VALVE
4. FUEL VALVE/FILTER
8 5. LIQUID LPG HOSE
5 6. LPG VAPOR HOSE
7. VAPORIZER
8. COOLING SYSTEM HOSES
9. GOVERNOR
6 10. BALANCE LINE
11. SOLENOID VALVE
12. CHECK VALVE
7 13. IDLE CONTROL ACTUATOR
14. LPG CARBURETOR
15. VACUUM LINE

FIGURE 2. LPG SYSTEM, S/H2.00–3.20XM (S/H40–65XM)

Fuel Tank (See FIGURE 3.)
The fuel tank is the reservoir for the LPG system. The
fuel tank keeps the fuel in the liquid condition. The pres-
sure of the fuel is 1.7 MPa (240 psi) when the tank is full
at an temperature of 27°C (80°F). The tank has a pres-
sure relief valve that is set at 3.4 MPa (480 psi). The inlet
tube for the pressure relief valve is in the vapor area at
the top of the tank.
The tank has a fuel gauge that measures the percentage
of fuel that is in the tank. A liquid level valve near the
pressure relief valve is used to indicate the maximum
liquid level that is permitted. The tank is filled until liq-
uid fuel and flows from the liquid level valve. One end
of the outlet tube inside the tank is near the lower surface
of the tank. The other end of the tube is fastened to the
outlet port. A shut–off valve is connected to the outlet
port of the tank. The shut–off valve can prevent fuel
from leaving the tank when the outlet line is discon-
nected. A quick disconnect fitting is installed for easy
tank removal. The tank has a guard for the valves and fit-
tings. The guard has a hole for the alignment dowel on
the mount. The tank is fastened to the lift truck by metal
straps with latches. A fuel pressure sensor in the line
from the tank energizes an indicator light on the instru-
ment panel when the tank is nearly empty and the fuel
pressure decreases.

2
 seat. Liquid LPG then flows through the fuel valve to the
vaporizer.

1
8 8
5
1

2
4

3 7

4
6 3 5 6 7 8 9

1. SHUT–OFF VALVE 5. LIQUID LEVEL

2. QUICK DISCON- INDICATOR 1
NECT FITTING 6. RELIEF VALVE 10
3. FUEL GAUGE 7. ALIGNMENT
4. PLUG PIN
8. TANK RELIEF 17
VALVE
NOTE: Some LPG tanks have an auxiliary fill
fitting instead of a plug for Item 4.
11
FIGURE 3. LPG TANK

16

Fuel Filter and Fuel Valve Unit

(See FIGURE 4.) 12
A fuel line connects the fuel tank to the fuel filter. The
fuel filter prevents dirt from entering the vaporizer and
has a fuel valve that is operated by engine vacuum. The
fuel valve prevents fuel from entering the vaporizer un- 15 13
less the engine is being started or is running. The fuel 1. DIAPHRAGM 10. FILTER ELEMENT
valve has a leaf spring that holds a polyurethane pad 2. FULCRUM AND SCREEN
against the seat. A diaphragm is used to open the fuel 3. VACUUM INLET 11. FUEL INLET
4. O–RING 12. LEAF SPRING
valve. Air pressure pushes on the vent side of the dia- 5. WASHER 13. GASKET
phragm. The other side of the diaphragm has inlet mani- 6. PIN 14. BODY
fold vacuum and a lever and plunger that open the fuel 7. FUEL OUTLET 15. DIAPHRAGM COVER
valve. When the engine starts, the air pressure on the 8. VALVE PAD 16. AIR INLET
9. FILTER COVER 17. LEVER
lever side of the diaphragm decreases. Then the air pres-
sure on the vent side of the diaphragm moves the dia- FIGURE 4. FUEL FILTER AND FUEL VALVE
phragm, lever and pin to move the valve pad from the

3
Vaporizer (See FIGURE 5. and FIGURE 6.)
1
The function of the vaporizer is to change the liquid fuel
to a vapor (gas) and to control the pressure of the vapor. 2
The LPG fuel changes from a liquid to a vapor inside the
expansion chamber. A liquid needs heat to change to a 2
gas. Heat is removed from the vaporizer when the pres-
sure of the liquid LPG is quickly decreased in the expan-
sion chamber. The vaporizer must to be heated by the
engine coolant to replace the heat that is lost to the fuel.
Coolant passages in the vaporizer prevent the vaporizer
from being too cold to operate.
The vaporizer also controls the pressure of the gas that
goes to the carburetor. The pressure reducer valve keeps
the pressure of the gas in the expansion chamber at 38 5
mm (1.5 in) of water. When gas is required at the carbu- 4
3
retor, there is a vacuum in the vapor chamber. The vac-
uum opens the vapor valve and permits the gas to flow to 1. FUEL INLET
the carburetor. 2. COOLANT PORTS
3. BUTTON FOR LOW PRESSURE VALVE
Liquid fuel enters the vaporizer inlet from the filter unit. 4. FUEL OUTLET
The pressure reducer valve has a polyurethane pad and a 5. BALANCE LINE PORT
seat. When the pad is against the seat, the liquid fuel can- FIGURE 5. VAPORIZER
not enter the expansion chamber.

1 9
9 6
2

7
3
10

4
6

5 5
6. EXPANSION CHAMBER
1. VAPOR CHAMBER 7. COOLANT PASSAGE
2. COVER 8. DIAPHRAGM FOR PRESSURE
3. DIAPHRAGM FOR VAPOR VALVE REDUCER VALVE
4. VAPOR VALVE LEVER 9. PRESSURE REDUCER VALVE
5. VAPOR VALVE 10. OUTLET

FIGURE 6. INSIDE THE VAPORIZER

4
When the liquid fuel enters through the pressure reducer
valve, the pressure of the fuel pushes on the diaphragm.
The diaphragm immediately moves and closes the
valve. Because only a very low pressure is needed to
close the valve, the fuel pressure in the expansion cham-
ber is very low. The sudden decrease in pressure causes
the fuel to change from a liquid to a vapor. This change
of condition takes heat from the surfaces of the expan-
sion chamber. Warm coolant flows next to the surfaces
of the chamber to replace the heat.
The LPG vapor is kept in the expansion chamber by the
vapor valve. When the engine starts, the gas in the vapor
chamber leaves the vapor chamber to flow through the
carburetor. The pressure on the vapor diaphragm then
decreases. Air pressure on the other side of the vapor
diaphragm pushes on the diaphragm and opens the va-
por valve. The gas flows from the expansion chamber to
the vapor chamber and then to the solenoid valve and
carburetor. The pressure in the expansion chamber de-
creases and again the pressure reducer valve opens to re-
peat the operation. When the carburetor throttle is
closed, the vacuum in the vapor chamber decreases and
the vapor valve closes. The pressure in the vapor cham-
ber stays at 10.3 kPa (1.5 psi).
A balance line connects the air pressure side of the vapor
diaphragm to an air inlet port at the carburetor. If the air
filter has a restriction, the pressure decreases in the car-
buretor and in the vapor chamber of the vaporizer. When
a balance line is not installed, this decrease can cause the
diaphragm to move and open the vapor valve. When a
balance tube is connected, the restriction causes an
equal decrease on both sides of the diaphragm. The bal-
ance line prevents an increase in the fuel mixture in the
carburetor. A button in the housing can be used to manu-
ally open the vapor valve. LPG vapor then flows to the
carburetor for starting the engine.
Carburetor
(See FIGURE 7. through FIGURE 10.)
The carburetor has only two moving parts. There is a
throttle plate and a diaphragm with the air measuring
and fuel metering valves. A fuel tube in the center of the
air passage is the seat for the fuel metering valve. The
seat for the air measuring valve is a tube that is around
the fuel tube. Four small passages in the valve permit air
to flow from the vacuum chamber above the diaphragm
to the inside of the air tube. There is clearance between
the air measuring plate and the fuel metering valve. The
clearance permits air to flow through holes in the dia-
phragm if there is an explosion in the inlet manifold.
1
2
7 6
5 3
4
1. DIAPHRAGM
2. AIR INLET
3. FUEL METERING VALVE
4. FUEL PASSAGE
5. IDLE AIR ORIFICE
6. POWER VALVE
7. IDLE MIXTURE SCREW
FIGURE 7. INSIDE THE CARBURETOR
When the engine starts, the air in the air tube and in the
vacuum chamber flows to the engine. Air pressure on
the outside of the air tube pushes the diaphragm against
the metering spring and moves the valves from their
seats. Air then flows from the outside of the air tube to
the inside of the tube. At the same time, the fuel valve is
lifted from its seat. The fuel pressure moves the LPG va-
por from the fuel tube to mix with the air flowing
through the air tube. Because the air measuring valve
causes a restriction, the pressure in the inside of the tube
is always less than the outside of the tube. The difference
in pressure changes when the amount of air flowing
through the air tube changes. The diaphragm and valve
move according to the air flow. The amount of fuel that
can flow through the fuel valve is controlled by the
amount of air flowing into the air tube.
5
 FIGURE 10. DIAPHRAGM AND FUEL VALVE
ASSEMBLY

When the throttle plate is fully open at high engine

FUEL FLOW
AIR FLOW
FIGURE 8. AIR AND FUEL FLOW AT IDLE
FUEL FLOW
AIR FLOW
VACUUM
FIGURE 9. AIR FUEL FLOW AT HIGH SPEED
When the throttle plate is near the closed position, the
pressure difference decreases. The metering spring
pushes the valves toward their seats. Flow through the
fuel valve decreases. An air screw for idle permits ad-
justment of the mixture of the air fuel at low engine
speed.
speeds, the fuel metering valve is at the top of its travel.
See FIGURE 9. The carburetor has an adjustable valve
that controls the amount of LPG vapor that goes to the
fuel metering valve. The restriction in fuel flow by this
valve is small when the fuel flow is low. When more fuel
flows through the valve, the valve becomes an orifice.
Adjusting the valve opening changes the mixture of fuel
and air when the engine is operated at high speed with a
load.
Solenoid Valve (See FIGURE 2.)
The solenoid valve is installed at the fuel inlet of the car-
buretor. The valve opens to let fuel to the carburetor
when the key switch is ON. When the key switch is
OFF, the valve closes and fuel cannot flow to the carbu-
retor.
Idle Control Actuator (See FIGURE 2.)
NOTE: Only the H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM) units
use the idle control actuator.
The idle control actuator is a vacuum controlled device
that increases idle speed when there is a load on the en-
gine. The idle control actuator is mounted on the carbu-
retor and acts directly on the throttle linkage. The vacu-
um line is connected to the governor and senses man-
ifold vacuum. A check valve in the vacuum line keeps
the vacuum at the actuator.
During normal operation, vacuum holds the actuator rod
away from the throttle linkage. When the engine is at
idle speed and the throttle is depressed, manifold vacu-
um decreases. The decrease in vacuum lets the actuator
rod extend and increase the idle speed.

6

1 2
3
1. SECONDARY ADJUSTMENT SCREW
2. ADJUSTMENT SPRING
3. MAIN ADJUSTMENT WHEEL
4. LOCK SCREW AND WASHERS
FIGURE 11. GOVERNOR
REPAIRS
REPLACEMENT OF THE HOSES
The hoses installed on LPG systems are special. Hoses
that are made for use with hydraulic oil are damaged by
LPG. When replacing the LPG hoses, make sure to use
only HYSTER Approved LPG hose. Make sure to use
the correct size of hose. When replacing the hose to the
quick disconnect fitting, make sure that it is the same
length as the hose it replaces. A hose that is the wrong
length permits the tank to be installed in a position that is
not correct.
LPG TANK
Removal (See FIGURE 12.)
WARNING
Before disconnecting any part of the LPG fuel sys-
tem, close the shut–off valve on the fuel tank. Run
the engine until the fuel lines are empty and the en-
gine stops. If the engine will not run, close the shut–
off valve on the fuel tank and release the fuel slowly
in a non–hazardous area.
LPG can cause an explosion even when the tanks are
empty. When replacing the tanks, do not weld, cause
sparks or permit flammable material on or near the
tanks. Do not change tanks when the engine is run-
ning. Tanks must be filled by authorized personnel.
Follow all the safety rules. Do not remove any parts
from the tank. Use a cloth to protect your hands from
cold metal.
Frost on the surface of the tank, the valves or fittings
and the odor of LPG fuel indicates a leak. Inspect the
LPG system and repair a leak immediately. An LPG
Governor (See FIGURE 11.)
The governor is installed between the carburetor and the
intake manifold. The governor helps control the maxi-
mum speed of the engine.
fuel leak creates an explosion and fire hazard. Do not
attempt to start the engine if there is a leak in the
LPG fuel system.
LPG tanks are heavy. The weight of an LPG tank can
exceed the maximum recommended weight for safe
lifting by an individual. Get assistance when lifting
or lowering an LPG tank. Use correct lifting proce-
dures.
Do not store LPG tanks near heat or an open flame.
For complete instructions on the storage of LPG fu-
els, refer to ANSI/NFPA 58 & 505.
WARNING
Do not use any LPG tank that is damaged. Damaged
tanks must be removed from service.
1. Move the lift truck to the area where tanks are
changed.
2. Turn the shut–off valve clockwise until the valve is
completely closed.
3. Run the engine until it stops, then turn the key to the
OFF position.
4. Disconnect the quick disconnect fitting.
WARNING
LPG is very cold. Always wear gloves to protect your
hands from the cold fittings. Do not permit LPG to
contact the skin.
5. Release the tank latch and remove the tank from the
bracket.
7
 5. Inspect the fuel system for leaks when the shut–off
8 valve is open. Frost on the surface of the tank, valves or
5
1 fittings or a strong odor of LPG fuel indicates a leak.

WARNING
2
4 The shut–off valve on the tank must be closed when
the truck is not being used.
3 7
HYDROSTATIC RELIEF VALVE
Removal and Installation
6
WARNING
LPG can cause an explosion. Do not cause sparks or
5. LIQUID LEVEL permit flammable material near the LPG system.
1. SHUT–OFF VALVE
2. QUICK DISCON- INDICATOR Close the fuel valve on the tank. Disconnect the nega-
NECT FITTING 6. RELIEF VALVE tive battery cable to prevent sparks.
3. FUEL GAUGE 7. ALIGNMENT
4. PLUG PIN 1. Close the shut–off valve on the tank.
8. TANK RELIEF
VALVE 2. Slowly loosen the hose fitting for the relief valve. Let
the fuel drain from the fitting before removing the relief
NOTE: Some LPG tanks have an auxiliary fill
valve.
fitting instead of a plug for Item 4.
FIGURE 12. LPG TANK WARNING
LPG is flammable. Make sure there are no sparks or
flames in the area when the fuel lines are drained.

Installation (See FIGURE 12.)
1. Before the tank is installed on the lift truck, check the
operation of the fuel gauge. Look at the fuel gauge and
move the tank. The needle of the gauge must move when
the fuel moves. If the needle does not move, a new tank
must be installed.
WARNING
Make sure the alignment pin extends through the
correct hole in the rim of the LPG tank. The hose or
fittings can be damaged if the LPG tank is not
installed in the correct position. A damaged hose or
fitting can release LPG fuel and cause an explosion
and fire hazard.
2. Install the LPG tank in its bracket so that the align-
ment pin is in the correct hole in the bracket. Close the
latches.
3. Connect the quick disconnect fitting to the shut–off
valve on the tank. Use your hand to tighten the fitting.
4. Turn the shut–off valve counter clockwise to open the
valve.
3. The valve cannot be repaired. If the valve is damaged,
install a new valve. After installation, open the shut–off
valve slowly and inspect the system for leaks.
FILTER UNIT
NOTE: Use a liquid thread sealant on all fittings with
threads at the filter unit.
Replacement Of The Fuel Filter Element
(See FIGURE 13.)
1. Close the shut–off valve on the tank. Slowly loosen
the hose fitting to the filter. Let the fuel drain from the
fitting before disassembling the filter unit.
WARNING
LPG is flammable. Make sure there are no sparks or
flames in the area when the fuel lines are drained.
2. Remove the ten screws and the filter cover. Replace
the filter element.
3. Install the cover and gasket. Tighten the screws for the
cover. Tighten the hose fitting.
2. Remove the ten screws from the filter cover. Remove
the filter and screen. Remove the six screws from the
diaphragm cover. Remove the covers and gaskets.

8
Replacement of the Diaphragm and Fuel
Valve (See FIGURE 13.)
1. Close the shut–off valve on the tank. Slowly discon-
nect the fittings for the inlet and outlet hoses and let the
LPG drain from the lines. Remove the vacuum hose and
the mount capscrews.
3. Remove the diaphragm. Remove the filter and screen.
Remove the screw for the leaf spring. Remove the valve
pad. Pull the pin from its bore.

2 8
9

10
1

1
11

4
12

3 1

13
5

14

1. SCREW 6. WASHER
2. DIAPHRAGM COVER 7. BODY 11. SCREEN
3. DIAPHRAGM 8. O–RING 12. FILTER
4. FULCRUM 9. PIN 13. GASKET
5. LEVER 10. VALVE PAD 14. FILTER COVER

FIGURE 13. FUEL VALVE AND FUEL FILTER

9
4. Remove the fitting from the fuel outlet port. Remove
the washer and O–ring through the outlet port.
5. Install a new O–ring in its bore. Align the washer with
the O–ring and install the pin through the washer and O–
ring.
6. Install the valve pad with the side with the polyure-
thane pad toward the bore. Install the leaf spring, lock
washer and screw.
7. Install the screen and filter element. Put the gasket on
the body and install the filter cover and the ten screws
and lock washers.
8. Replace the diaphragm. Install the diaphragm so that
the large plate is toward the valve. Install the cover and
tighten the six screws and lock washers.
9. Install the capscrews for the mount. Connect the vac-
uum line. Connect the lines for the tank and the vapor-
izer.
10. Open the shut–off valve on the tank and check for
leaks in the line to the filter unit. Start the engine and in-
spect for leaks on the outlet side of the filter unit.
VAPORIZER (See FIGURE 14.)
Removal
WARNING
LPG can cause an explosion. Do not permit any
sparks or flames in the work area.
1. Close the shut–off valve on the tank. Run the engine
until it stops. Slowly disconnect the fitting from the fil-
ter unit on the vaporizer. Disconnect the hose to the car-
buretor.
2. Put a drain pan under the drain valve for the radiator.
Open the drain valve so that the coolant drains in the
pan.
10
3. Disconnect the coolant fittings to the vaporizer. Re-
move the balance line from the vaporizer. Remove the
capscrews at the mount for the vaporizer.
Disassembly
1. Remove the seven screws that hold the high pressure
cover and plate to the vaporizer body. Remove the cover
and pressure reducer diaphragm. Remove the pin and
spring from the plate.
2. Remove the plate and gasket. Remove the pressure
reducer valve.
3. Remove the six screws that hold the cover for the va-
por chamber to the vaporizer. Remove the cover. Move
the diaphragm toward the inlet port to release it from the
lever.
4. Remove the screw that holds the lever pin. Cut the
wire that holds the vapor valve pad to the lever. Remove
the pad.
Cleaning
WARNING
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic, and
can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning sol-
vents, always follow the recommendations of the
manufacturer.
Wash all parts of the assembly, except the diaphragms in
solvent. Use compressed air to dry the parts. Do not use
compressed air on the diaphragms.
Inspection
Make sure the vaporizer housing does not have cracks or
damage. Inspect the threads for damage. The dia-
phragms, valve pads, and gaskets are included in the re-
pair kit.
 1
2

11

12

1
4
7 6
5
8 13
14
15
6 9

16 1

10

11. GASKET
1. SCREW 6. SPRING 12. PLATE
2. COVER FOR VAPOR VALVE 7. VAPOR VALVE PAD 13. PLUG
DIAPHRAGM 8. PIN 14. ACTUATING PIN
3. VAPOR VALVE DIAPHRAGM 9. HOUSING 15. DIAPHRAGM FOR PRESSURE
4. VAPOR VALVE LEVER 10. PAD FOR PRESSURE REDUCER VALVE
5. PIVOT PIN REDUCER VALVE 16. COVER

FIGURE 14. PARTS OF THE VAPORIZER

11
Assembly (See FIGURE 15.)
Follow the procedures shown in FIGURE 15. Always
use a HYSTER Approved repair kit when assembling
the vaporizer.
Installation
NOTE: Use a liquid thread sealant on all fittings with
threads at the vaporizer.
Install the mount capscrews. Connect all the lines to the
fittings. Fill the radiator with coolant. Check for leaks.

STEP 1:
Install the pad for the pressure reducer valve. STEP 3:
Make sure the polyurethane surface is against Install the actuating pin and spring.
the seat.

STEP 2:
Install a new gasket. Install the plate with pin STEP 4:
guide over the pressure reducer valve. Install a new diaphragm.

FIGURE 15. ASSEMBLY OF THE VAPORIZER (1 OF 3)

12

STEP 5: Install the cover. Tighten the screws.
STEP 7:
Put the valve spring in position on the housing.
Put the lever assembly over the spring. Install
the screw so that the head of the screw is
holding the pivot pin.

STEP 6:
Remove the vapor valve pad from the valve
lever. Install a new valve pad in the lever. Leave
the pad loose enough against the lever so that STEP 8:
the pad can tilt for alignment against the seat. Tighten the screw. Make sure the lever moves
Bend and cut the pin shown. freely.

FIGURE 15. ASSEMBLY OF THE VAPORIZER (2 OF 3)

13
 STEP 9:
Slide the lever into the slot in the diaphragm STEP 10:
bracket. Install the diaphragm. Install the cover and tighten the screws.

FIGURE 15. ASSEMBLY OF THE VAPORIZER (3 OF 3)

CARBURETOR

Removal

1. Remove the hose from the air cleaner at the carburetor

inlet. Disconnect the wires to the solenoid valve. Re-
move the fuel inlet hose at the solenoid valve. Remove
the hose to the idle control actuator. Remove the fuel fil-
ter hose and vaporizer hose.

2. Disconnect the throttle cable at the carburetor. Re-

move the carburetor from the governor.

Disassembly
(See FIGURE 16. and FIGURE 17.)

NOTE: Disassemble the throttle body and throttle shaft

assembly only if the gaskets or seals must be replaced.
1
1. Remove the four screws from the diaphragm cover. 3
Remove the cover and metering spring. 2
4
1. THROTTLE BODY
2. Remove the metering valve assembly from the carbu- 2. CARBURETOR BODY
retor body. Remove the four screws from the diaphragm 3. POWER VALVE
back–up plate and disassemble the valve. The valve as- 4. IDLE MIXTURE SCREW
sembly includes a fuel metering valve, air measuring
plate, diaphragm and back–up plate. FIGURE 16. THROTTLE BODY REMOVAL

3. Remove the solenoid valve and the idle control actua- 4. Disconnect the throttle springs from the attachment
tor. Remove the idle mixture screw and spring. plate. Remove the four screws that connect the throttle

14
body to the carburetor body. Remove the throttle body
and attachment plate.
5. Remove the two screws that connect the throttle plate
to the throttle shaft and remove the throttle plate. Re-
move the retainer, spring guides and springs from the
throttle shaft. Remove the throttle shaft from the throttle
body.
6. Remove the seal retainers and seals from the throttle
body. If necessary remove the bearings from the throttle
body.
Cleaning
WARNING
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic, and
can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning sol-
vents, always follow the recommendations of the
manufacturer.
Make sure all the carburetor parts are clean before as-
sembly. Wash all the parts, except the diaphragm, in sol-
vent. Make sure the air passages in the metering valve
are clean.

1. COVER
2. SPRING
3. MIXTURE VALVE ASSEMBLY
4. CARBURETOR BODY
5. IDLE MIXTURE SCREW 2
6. IDLE CONTROL LEVER AND
ADJUSTER ASSEMBLY 1

16

18 19
3
16
17

16

15 14
13
12 5
11
8
10 7
9
11. SEAL
6 12. RETAINER
13. BEARING
14. THROTTLE BODY
15. SPRINGS
7. THROTTLE LEVER 16. GASKETS
8. IDLE SPEED SCREW 17. ATTACHMENT PLATE
9. THROTTLE SHAFT 18. ADAPTER PLATE
10. THROTTLE PLATE 19. POSITION MARK

FIGURE 17. PARTS OF THE CARBURETOR, S/H2.00–3.20XM (S/H40–65XM)

15
 1. COVER
2. SPRING
3. MIXTURE VALVE ASSEMBLY
4. CARBURETOR BODY
5. IDLE MIXTURE SCREW 1
6. THROTTLE LEVER
7. IDLE SPEED SCREW 14
8. THROTTLE SHAFT 2
15

13 14

18 3
11
10 12

9
7
6 8

16
5

17

9. THROTTLE PLATE 14. GASKETS

10. SEAL 15. ATTACHMENT PLATE
11. RETAINER 16. GASKET
12. BEARING 17. ADAPTER
13. THROTTLE BODY 18. POSITION MARK

FIGURE 18. PARTS OF THE CARBURETOR, S/H1.50–1.75XM, S/H2.00XMS (S/H25–35XM, H40XMS)

Assembly (See FIGURE 16. and FIGURE 17.) 3. Assemble the the metering valve, air measuring plate,
diaphragm and back–up plate. Align the position mark
1. Install new bearings as needed in the throttle body.
on the metering valve of the mixture valve assembly
Install new seals in the throttle body. Install the seal re-
with the fuel inlet, and install the mixture valve assem-
tainers and the throttle shaft. Install the throttle plate to
bly in the carburetor. Install the metering spring and
the throttle shaft using lock washers with the screws.
cover. Make sure the spring is in the correct position be-
Install the spring guides, springs and retainer on the
fore installing the cover.
throttle shaft.

2. Install the throttle body and attachment plate with

new gaskets to the carburetor body. Connect the springs Installation (See FIGURE 2.)
to the attachment plate. Install the idle mixture spring
and screw. Install the idle control actuator and solenoid NOTE: Use a liquid thread sealant on all fittings with
valve. threads at the carburetor.

16
1. Install a new gasket on the governor. Install the carbu-
retor on the governor. Install the idle control actuator on
the bracket.
2. Install the balance line and the fuel hose. Install the
vacuum hose and check valve for the idle control actua-
tor. The GRAY side of the check valve must be toward
the idle control actuator.
3. Connect the throttle linkage. Connect the wires at the
solenoid valve.
4. Connect the hose to the air cleaner.
5. Check and adjust the carburetor, throttle linkage and
idle control actuator as described in CHECKS AND
ADJUSTMENTS.
SOLENOID VALVE (See FIGURE 2.)
The solenoid valve cannot be repaired. If the solenoid
valve does not operate it must be replaced.
CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS
WARNING
LPG can cause an explosion. Do not permit any
sparks or open flames in work area.
CHECK THE FILTER UNIT
1. Make sure there is fuel in the tank and that the tank
valve is open.
2. Check the operation of the fuel valve/filter. Loosen
the fitting for the liquid LPG hose where it enters the
vaporizer. Check for a leak. A leak will be indicated by
frost on the fitting. If there is frost at the fitting, repair or
replace the fuel valve/filter.
3. If there is no frost at the fitting, disconnect the vacuum
line at the fuel valve/filter. Connect a hand operated
vacuum pump to the fitting on the fuel valve/filter. Ap-
ply just enough vacuum to permit fuel to escape from the
fitting loosened in step 1.
4. If frost does not appear at the fitting loosened in step 1
when a vacuum is applied to the fitting for the vacuum
line, repair or replace the fuel valve/filter.
5. If frost appears at the fitting loosened in step 1 when a
vacuum is applied to the fitting for the vacuum line,
check the vacuum hose for restrictions.
1. Disconnect the hose from the air cleaner to the carbu-
retor inlet. Remove the fuel inlet hose. Disconnect the
wires at the solenoid valve. Remove the solenoid valve.
2. Use a liquid thread sealant and install the solenoid
valve on the carburetor. Connect the wires and fuel hose.
Connect the hose to the air cleaner. Turn the key switch
ON and OFF to check the operation of the solenoid
valve. Start the engine and check for leaks.
GOVERNOR
Remove and install the governor as described in the pro-
cedures for the CARBURETOR. When the governor is
removed or replaced, adjust the governor and throttle
linkage as described in CHECKS AND ADJUST-
MENTS.
NOTE: The vacuum hoses installed on the carburetor
and governor are made of special high–temperature ma-
terial. If any of the hoses are replaced, make sure the cor-
rect hoses are installed.
CHECK THE VAPORIZER
Pressure Reducer Valve
1. Connect a pressure gauge that can measure with accu-
racy a pressure below 35 kPa (5 psi) to the test port of the
vaporizer. The gauge must indicate 10.5 kPa (1.5 psi)
when the engine is at idle. If the gauge indicates a pres-
sure greater than 10.5 kPa (1.5 psi), the pressure reducer
valve is damaged.
Vapor Valve
1. Run the engine until it is warm.
2. To check for leaks, stop the engine and disconnect the
hose from the fuel inlet port at the carburetor. Put the end
of the hose just below the surface of water in a container.
If bubbles are seen, the vapor valve is damaged or is
dirty.
3. To check the vapor diaphragm, remove the inlet hose
to the vaporizer. Remove the inlet hose at the carburetor.
Put the end of the hose below the surface of the water in a
container. Remove the balance line from the carburetor
and apply air pressure to the line. If bubbles continue to
be seen in the water, the diaphragm is damaged.
17
ADJUST THE CARBURETOR
Idle Mixture (See FIGURE 19.)
1. When the engine is not running, turn the idle mixture
screw clockwise until it stops. In this position, the idle
mixture screw prevents air from entering the air tube
through the idle air port.
2. Turn the idle mixture screw four turns counterclock-
wise.
3. Start the engine and run until warm. Adjust the mix-
ture screw clockwise (up to 2 full turns) as needed until
the idle is smooth. Turning the screw clockwise in-
creases the ratio of fuel to air.
Idle Adjustments (See FIGURE 19.)
NOTE: Only the H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM) units
use the idle control actuator.
CAUTION
The adjustment of the throttle cable must be correct
or the cable can break during operation. The accel-
erator pedal or the MONOTROL pedal must reach
the pedal stop (floor plate) by the time the throttle
plate in the carburetor is fully open.
Power Mixture Adjustment (See FIGURE 19.)
The power mixture valve controls the flow of fuel to the
carburetor when the engine is running near full load. Set
the power mixture valve on the center notch. This set-
ting will be correct for most conditions. If further adjust-
ment is needed, the engine speed must not be permitted
to increase to the governor limit.

1. The engine must be at the normal operating tempera-

ture. Connect a tachometer to the engine.

2. Turn the idle speed screw until the idle speed of the 5
engine is 725 ± 25 rpm.

3. Turn the idle mixture screw (2) 4 1/2 ± 1/2 turns from 4
the full IN position. Check and adjust the idle speed as
1
necessary.
3
4. Check the idle control adjustment as follows:

a. Adjust the idle speed and mixture as described

above.

b. Put the transmission in NEUTRAL and discon-

nect the vacuum hose from the idle control actua-
tor (4). Put a plug in the vacuum hose. Adjust the
engine idle speed to 1400 ± 50 rpm with the idle
control screw (3).
2
c. Install the vacuum hose and clamp to the idle con-
trol actuator (4). 1
6
d. Check the idle speed. If the idle speed is higher
than specifications, make the adjustment at the
idle control screw (3).
1. IDLE SPEED SCREW
2. IDLE MIXTURE SCREW
5. Check that the engine runs at its governed speed when
3. IDLE CONTROL SCREW
the accelerator pedal or the MONOTROL pedal reaches 4. IDLE CONTROL ACTUATOR
the floor plate. If necessary, adjust the throttle cable at 5. VACUUM HOSE CONNECTION
the bracket on the engine. Loosen the lock nuts and 6. POWER VALVE ADJUSTER
move the cable as necessary. Check that the maximum
FIGURE 19. LPG CARBURETOR
engine speed is 2600 to 2700 rpm.

18

CAUTION
During this test the mast must be fully extended.
Make sure there is enough overhead clearance in the
building or do the test outdoors.
1. Operate the lift truck until the engine, transmission
and hydraulic system are at normal operating tempera-
tures. Apply the parking brake.
2. Install an exhaust gas analyzer in the exhaust pipe.
Connect a tachometer to the engine. Start the engine and
fully extend the mast. Pull back on the LIFT lever to put
a load on the engine. Fully depress the accelerator pedal
and turn the power mixture valve until the reading on the
exhaust gas analyzer is 0.5 to 1.0% CO (carbon monox-
ide) maximum. If an exhaust analyzer is not available
adjust the power mixture valve until the highest engine
speed is reached.
GOVERNOR (See FIGURE 20.)
The governor does not normally need adjustment. If ad-
justment is necessary, do not turn the adjustment screws
more than 1/4 turn at a time. If the adjustment screws are
turned more than this the governor can be difficult to ad-
just.
Checks
Before making any adjustments to the governor, check
the following:
1. Make sure the mechanical, electrical and fuel systems
are operating correctly.
1
2 the secondary adjustment screw.
3
1. MAIN ADJUSTMENT WHEEL
2. SECONDARY ADJUSTMENT SCREW
3. LOCK SCREW
FIGURE 20. GOVERNOR ADJUSTMENT
2. Make sure the tachometer will work with the ignition
system.
3. Make sure the air filter is clean and connected to the
carburetor.
Adjustments
With the engine at operating temperature, adjust the
governor as follows:
1. Remove the lock wire from the governor lock screw.
Loosen the governor lock screw. Apply the parking
brake.
2. With no load on the engine, run the engine at full open
throttle to obtain maximum engine speed. To adjust the
maximum no load speed, hold the secondary adjustment
screw and turn the main adjustment wheel. Turn the
main adjusting screw clockwise to increase engine
speed and counterclockwise to decrease engine speed.
Set the maximum engine speed to 2600 to 2700 rpm.
3. Tighten the lock screw for the governor.
4. Run the engine with the throttle fully open, then pull
on the Tilt lever to load the engine. The governor setting
is correct when the engine runs smoothly (without speed
changes), and the difference in speed between the load
and no load conditions is within the limits of the specifi-
cations.
5. If the engine speed changes, loosen the lock screw and
turn the secondary adjustment screw 1/4 turn clockwise.
Set the maximum no load engine speed by turning the
main adjustment wheel counterclockwise. Repeat this
procedure until the engine speed is steady.
6. If the engine speed difference between the load and no
load conditions is greater than specified, turn the main
adjustment wheel 1/4 turn clockwise. Set the maximum
no load engine speed by turning the secondary adjust-
ment screw counterclockwise. Repeat this procedure
until the engine runs correctly.
7. When the governor adjustment is correct, tighten the
lock screw and install wire between the lock screw and
ADJUST THE THROTTLE LINKAGE,
S/H2.00–3.20XM (S/H40–65XM)
(See FIGURE 21. and FIGURE 22.)
NOTE: Each time the throttle system is disassembled, it
is important to adjust the throttle cables.
19
1. Adjust the idle speed as described in Idle Adjust-
ments. MONOTROL PEDAL
SHOWN
2. Make sure the throttle linkage at the pedal assembly is
in the correct position.
1
3. Push the Monotrol or throttle pedal until it stops
against the floor plate. Adjust the throttle cable so that
the pedal stops on the floor plate just as the throttle plate 4 9 8
reaches the wide open position. Use the nuts at the pedal 2 8
end of the cable housing to change the adjustment of the
cable.

9 4
6 5
4
3

11707
7 9
1. PEDAL PAD 8
7 8
2. LINK
3. CRANK 6
4. PEDAL FRAME
5. FORWARD SOLENOID (BLACK WIRE) 5
1 6. BATTERY (RED WIRE)
7. REVERSE SOLENOID (YELLOW WIRE)
3 8. CORRECT HOLES FOR THE LINKAGE
H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM)
9. CORRECT HOLES FOR THE LINKAGE
2 S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM)
FIGURE 22. THROTTLE ARRANGEMENT,
S/H2.00–3.20XM (S/H40–65XM)
1. PIN 5. NUT
2. COTTER PIN 6. LOCK WASHER
3. THROTTLE CABLE 7. PEDAL LINKAGE
4. ROD END ASSEMBLY ADJUST THE THROTTLE LINKAGE,
S/H1.50–1.75XM, S/H2.00XMS
FIGURE 21. THROTTLE CABLE (S/H25–35XM, H40XMS) (See FIGURE 23.)
ARRANGEMENT
NOTE: Each time the throttle linkage is disassembled,
4. Adjust the pedal return stop (see FIGURE 22.) so that it is important to adjust the throttle cable.
there is no tension on the throttle cable at the idle posi-
tion. Do the following to check this adjustment: 1. Connect the throttle cable at the pedal. Tighten the
jam nut at the pedal bracket (7).
a. Run the engine at idle speed. Make sure the rod
on the idle control actuator is retracted and the 2. Adjust the idle speed of the engine. The idle adjust-
throttle linkage is against the idle speed screw. ment screw on the carburetor controls the idle speed.
The correct idle speed is 725 ± 25 rpm.
b. When the pedal return stop is in the correct posi-
tion, tighten the capscrew that holds the stop to 3. Adjust the pedal height to 41.3 mm (1.63 in) using the
the bracket. pedal stop (4).

20
 MONOTROL PEDAL SHOWN
1. PEDAL PAD
2 2. PEDAL FRAME
3. LINK
1 4. PEDAL STOP
5. CRANK
6. PEDAL HEIGHT
7. PEDAL BRACKET
6 A 8. THROTTLE CABLE
C
7
8

5 LINKAGE CONNECTIONS
A = All Units
B= Gasoline/LPG Units
C B C = Diesel Units
B
12822

FIGURE 23. THROTTLE ARRANGEMENT, S/H1.50–1.75XM, S/H2.00XMS (S/H25–35XM, H40XMS)

4. Connect the cable at the carburetor. Adjust the length
of the cable housing so that the cable is not loose. With
the engine running at the correct idle speed, change the
position of the cable housing with the nuts at the bracket.
CHECK THE MONOTROL PEDAL
(See FIGURE 22.)
Slowly move the Monotrol pedal pad from Forward to
Reverse and Reverse to Forward. There must be some
movement of the pedal pad before the pedal frame
moves and the throttle opens.

PROBLEM
The engine will not start easi-
ly. The vaporizer is freezing.
TROUBLESHOOTING
POSSIBLE CAUSE PROCEDURE OR ACTION
Low coolant level. Check coolant level at radiator and
coolant recovery reservoir. Fill to cor-
rect level.
Water hoses have a restriction or are Make sure there is adequate water
too small. flow to vaporizer. Install larger hoses.
Air lock in coolant line to the vaporizer. Remove air from coolant line.
Belt for water pump is loose or broken. Adjust tension. Install new drive belt.
Hose from vaporizer to carburetor has Find and repair leak. Install new hose.
a leak.
Thermostat is not operating correctly. Install new thermostat.
Idle mixture screw is not adjusted cor- Adjust idle mixture screw.
rectly.
Fuel valve in carburetor is damaged. Install new fuel valve. Overhaul carbu-
retor. Install new carburetor.

21

PROBLEM
The engine will not start easi-
ly. The vaporizer is freezing.
Engine does not idle smoothly
Engine idle speed is too high.
22
TROUBLESHOOTING
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Solenoid valve is disconnected or
does not operate correctly.
Air filter is dirty.
Balance line is disconnected.
Accelerating too soon after engine is
started.
Idle mixture screw is not adjusted cor-
rectly.
Diaphragm in carburetor is damaged.
Air leak between carburetor and gov-
ernor or between governor and intake
manifold.
PCV system has a restriction.
Air leak at throttle shaft.
Hose from vaporizer to carburetor is
damaged.
Balance line is disconnected.
Pressure reducer diaphragm has a
hole.
Low pressure valve in vaporizer is
damaged.
Idle speed is too low.
Idle speed screw is loose.
Water in fuel.
Fuel tank is installed in the wrong
position.
Fuel valve on the tank is in the wrong
port.
Idle control actuator is not adjusted
correctly or the vacuum hose is dis-
connected.
Idle mixture screw is not adjusted cor-
rectly.
Idle speed screw is loose.
Idle control actuator is not adjusted
correctly or the vacuum hose is dis-
connected.
PROCEDURE OR ACTION
Connect wire to solenoid. Install new
solenoid valve.
Check air restriction indicator. Clean
or install new filter element.
Connect balance line.
Allow longer warm–up time before
starting operation.
Adjust idle mixture screw.
Install new diaphragm or carburetor.
Fix air leak.
Remove restriction. Install new PCV
valve.
Repair or install new carburetor.
Install new hose.
Connect balance line.
Install new diaphragm.
Install new low pressure valve or new
vaporizer.
Adjust idle speed.
Tighten screw and adjust idle speed.
Check fuel supply and tank filling pro-
cedure. Clean system.
Install fuel tank in correct position.
Install fuel valve in the correct port.
Connect vacuum hose. Adjust the idle
control actuator.
Adjust idle mixture screw.
Tighten screw and adjust idle speed.
Connect vacuum hose. Adjust the idle
control actuator.
 TROUBLESHOOTING
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE
Engine does not run smoothly. The governor is damaged.
Low pressure diaphragm or valve in
vaporizer is damaged.
Wrong or damaged fuel valve in car-
buretor.
PCV system has a restriction.
Air leaks in the intake manifold.
Balance line has a restriction.
Loss of power. Air filter is dirty.
PCV system has a restriction.
Governor is damaged.
Power mixture valve is not adjusted
correctly.
Hose from vaporizer to carburetor has
leaks.
Diaphragm in carburetor is damaged.
Wrong type of fuel.
Hose from vaporizer to carburetor has
a restriction or is too small.
Vaporizer is damaged.
Engine stops running. Valve on fuel tank is closed.
Fuel tank is empty.
Hose from fuel tank is too close to the
exhaust pipe.
Vacuum line to filter unit is discon-
nected.
Filter unit is damaged.
Vaporizer is damaged.
Carburetor is damaged.
Hose to carburetor is damaged.
Idle speed is too low.
Water in the fuel.
Fuel filter is dirty.
Governor is damaged.
Air leak at the intake manifold.
Solenoid valve is disconnected or
does not operate correctly.
PROCEDURE OR ACTION
Install new governor.
Repair or install new vaporizer.
Repair or install new carburetor.
Remove restriction. Install new PCV
valve.
Repair leaks.
Remove restriction.
Check air restriction indicator. Clean
or install new filter element.
Remove restriction. Install new PCV
valve.
Install new governor.
Adjust power mixture valve.
Repair leak or install new hose.
Install new diaphragm.
Clear system of wrong fuel. Fill tank
with correct fuel..
Remove restriction or install new or
larger hose.
Repair or install new vaporizer.
Open fuel valve at the tank.
Install tank that has fuel.
Locate hose away from excessive
heat. Install new hose.
Connect vacuum line.
Install new filter unit.
Repair or install new vaporizer.
Install new carburetor.
Install new hose.
Adjust idle speed.
Check fuel supply and tank filling pro-
cedure. Clean system.
Clean fuel filter.
Repair or install new governor.
Repair leak.
Connect wire to solenoid. install new
solenoid valve.
23
 INTRODUCTION

GENERAL tion is in the section SINGLE–SPEED POWER-

This section has the description and operation of the SHIFT TRANSMISSION, 1300 SRM 501.
single–speed powershift transmission. Repair informa-

DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION

GENERAL The single–speed powershift transmission has a torque

The single–speed powershift transmission is a constant
mesh transmission that has one forward and one reverse
speed. The transmission has two clutches, a forward and
reverse clutch, that are applied hydraulically and re-
leased by spring force.
converter, transmission pump, forward and reverse
clutch assemblies, a control valve, and a differential as-
sembly. See FIGURE 1. There is a chain drive arrange-
ment on the front cover of the transmission. The chain is
driven by the torque converter and causes the rotation of
the transmission pump and the hydraulic system pump.

4 H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM) SHOWN.

2 3 S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) SIMILAR.
5
1

11

11137

10 8
9
1. TORQUE CONVERTER
HOUSING
2. INPUT SHAFT
3. STATOR 6. FORWARD CLUTCH 9. REVERSE CLUTCH
4. DRIVE SPROCKET 7. RING GEAR 10. CHAIN
5. CONTROL VALVE 8. PINION 11. PUMP SPROCKET


 
 

1
TORQUE CONVERTER Operation (See FIGURE 3., FIGURE 4.,
and FIGURE 5.)
Description (See FIGURE 2.)
The torque converter has two main functions. It operates
The torque converter hydraulically connects the engine as a fluid clutch to smoothly transfer power from the en-
to the transmission. There is no direct mechanical con- gine to the transmission. The torque converter will mul-
nection between the engine and the transmission. tiply the torque from the engine. When the engine works
against a load, the torque converter can multiply the
GM 2.2L ENGINE SHOWN torque from the engine and send more torque to the
5 4 3 transmission. The maximum torque multiplication is
available just before the torque converter stalls. If the
6
2 need for torque multiplication is not required, the torque
7 converter operates as a fluid clutch.

8
 

12773
1. CRANKSHAFT
2. FLYWHEEL 6. STATOR SUPPORT
3. DRIVE PLATE 7. DRIVE SPROCKET
4. IMPELLER 8. TURBINE
5. INPUT SHAFT 9. STATOR CLUTCH



   
  
The torque converter has an impeller, a turbine, and a
stator with a stator clutch. The impeller is fastened to the
flywheel and has a set of curved blades. The turbine also
has blades, and is connected to the input shaft (forward 9416

clutch housing) of the transmission by splines. The sta-
tor is between the turbine and the impeller. The stator
clutch is a single–direction clutch that permits the stator

   
to turn freely in the direction of engine rotation, but
locks to prevent rotation in the opposite direction from
engine rotation. When the turbine is rotating at the same
speed as the impeller, the stator clutch permits the stator
to rotate as a unit with the impeller and turbine.
2
 

The impeller has a set of curved blades that accelerates
the oil from the center of the impeller when the impeller
turns. The volume of the impeller decreases towards the
outer circumference. This decreasing volume increases
the speed and energy of the oil as it leaves the impeller
and flows into the outer circumference of the turbine.
The force from the high–speed oil hitting the blades in
the turbine transfers most of the energy to the turbine
and causes it to move in the direction of the engine rota-
tion. The oil then flows from the outer circumference to-
wards the center of the turbine. The turbine blades
change the direction of the oil flow so that the oil leaving
the center of the turbine is going in the direction oppo-
site of engine rotation. This oil now has a lower velocity
because it has given most of its energy to rotate the tur-
bine.
When the lift truck is traveling at a constant speed on
level ground, the turbine and impeller rotate at approxi-
mately the same speed. The centrifugal force of the oil is
the same for both the impeller and turbine. The oil does
not flow through the stator and torque is not multiplied.
The rotating oil hits the back of the stator blades and
turns the stator in the direction of engine rotation. The
stator clutch permits the stator to turn with engine rota-
tion. The impeller, turbine, stator, and oil rotate as a unit
when torque multiplication is not required.

The stator is between the turbine and impeller in the cen-

ter of the torque converter. When the oil hits the stator
blades, the stator clutch prevents the stator from turning
in the direction opposite of engine rotation. The blades
of the stator change the direction of the oil so that the oil
enters the impeller in the direction of engine rotation.
The energy that remains in the oil flow as it leaves the
stator is added to the new energy being added to the im-
peller by the engine. This use of energy, controlled by
the stator, permits the torque converter to multiply the
torque of the engine.

9417



    


 


When the lift truck begins to travel up a ramp, the resis-

tance to turning the turbine increases. The centrifugal
force of the oil in the turbine decreases. When the speed
of the turbine is less than the speed of the impeller, the
stator locks in place. Torque is multiplied only when the
stator is held by the stator clutch. The oil flows from the
9419
impeller, through the turbine and stator, and enters the
impeller to multiply the torque. The torque converter


  
again increases the torque when more torque is needed.
Resistance to the flow of oil in the turbine, because of
centrifugal force, increases as the speed of the turbine
increases. This resistance decreases the energy and
amount of oil flow to the impeller from the stator. When
the flow to the impeller decreases, the additional force
added to the impeller decreases. Less torque is gener-
ated when less torque is needed.
CLUTCH ASSEMBLIES
Description (See FIGURE 6.)
The transmission has two clutch assemblies, a forward
clutch and a reverse clutch. The forward clutch housing
has an input shaft that is connected to the turbine of the
torque converter. The forward and reverse gears are al-
3
ways engaged. Also, the forward and reverse clutch
hubs are always engaged with the output shaft. Hydrau-
lic pressure is used to apply one of the clutches so that
power is transmitted from the engine through the trans-
mission to the drive wheels.
An orifice in each clutch piston permits a small continu-
ous oil flow from the pressure chamber in the clutch.
This orifice makes sure that the clutch will completely
release. The orifice makes sure oil does not stay in the
pressure chamber of the clutch because of centrifugal
force after the clutch is released.

Each clutch assembly has a housing, piston, friction
discs, and separator plates. The friction discs and sepa-
rator plates are installed in the housing in a sequence.
Each friction disc is next to a separator plate. The sepa-
rator plates have a smooth metal surface. The friction
discs have a friction material on the surface. The hub in
each clutch assembly engages with the inner splines of
the friction discs. The splines in the outer circumference
of the separator plates engage the splines in the clutch
housing. A reaction ring holds the friction discs and sep-
arator plates in the housing. A large return spring keeps
the piston retracted against the housing. There is enough
clearance in the clutch assembly to permit the friction
discs to rotate when a clutch is not applied. When hy-
draulic pressure is applied to the piston, the friction
discs and separator plates are pressed together and the
clutch assembly rotates as a single unit. The hydraulic
pressure for the clutches is 690 to 860 kPa (100 to 125
psi) measured at the test port for the clutch regulator.
Both clutch shafts in the transmission have an oil pas-
sage that connects the clutch assembly to the control
valve. There are also oil passages in the transmission
housing and the clutch assemblies for the lubrication
and cooling of the clutch assemblies. Seal rings on one
end of each clutch shaft seal the oil passages so that oil
can flow from the passages in the transmission housing
to the passages in the clutch shafts.
Operation (See FIGURE 7.)
When the Forward clutch is applied, the power from the
engine is sent through the Forward clutch assembly to
the output pinion. The flow of power is from the input
shaft (part of the forward clutch housing) through the
applied clutch to the forward hub. The gear on the hub of
the forward clutch is engaged with the output gear on the
pinion of the differential. The power flows from the
applied clutch in the transmission through the pinion to
the differential.

3
1 CLUTCH HOUSING
2. CLUTCH PISTON 1
3. PISTON SEAL
4. O–RING 17
2 4 6
5. CLUTCH SPRING
6. SPRING RETAINER 15
5
7. SNAP RING
8. BALL BEARING 9 8 16
9. SEAL RING

10. SEPARATOR DISC



11. FRICTION DISC
12. REACTION RING
13. SNAP RING 7
14. HUB AND GEAR 14
15. BALL BEARING 17 12
16. SEAL RINGS 13
17. THRUST BEARING ASSEMBLY
10 11
 
 
 

4
 2 1 2 1

4 2 3
2 (NOT ENGAGED)
(ENGAGED) 11161

4
1

3
(NOT ENGAGED) 4
1 INPUT SHAFT
9585
2. FORWARD CLUTCH
3. REVERSE CLUTCH 3
4. OUTPUT SHAFT (ENGAGED)



 



The gear on the outside of the forward clutch housing is
engaged with the gear on the outside of the reverse
clutch housing. The gear on the reverse clutch hub is en-
gaged with the output gear on the pinion. These gears
are always engaged so that they rotate, but when the re-
verse clutch is released, they do not transfer power.
When the reverse clutch is applied, the forward clutch is
released. The flow of power is from the input shaft (for-
ward clutch housing) to the reverse clutch housing. The
power is transferred through the applied reverse clutch
to the hub. The hub gear transfers the power to the out-
put gear and pinion. The pinion will rotate in the oppo-
site direction as it did when the forward clutch was
applied. See FIGURE 7.
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
General
The powershift transmission has a hydraulic system for
control and lubrication of the transmission. The oil
pump for the transmission is driven by the torque con-
verter through a chain drive arrangement. See
FIGURE 8. The transmission pump turns with the
torque converter when the engine is running. The oil
supply for the system is kept in the sump of the trans-
mission. A screen in the suction line to the transmission
pump prevents large particles from entering the hydrau-
lic system of the transmission. The oil flows through the
screen in the sump, through the transmission pump, by
the relief valve, and then through the filter. See
FIGURE 9. The pressure, controlled by the relief valve
5
for the transmission pump, is 965 to 1170 kPa (140 to pedal. The oil filter for the transmission is also mounted
170 psi). A by–pass valve in the oil filter opens at a dif- on the control valve.
ference in pressure of approximately 140 kPa (20 psi)
A manifold with two solenoid valves is installed on top
when the filter is dirty. From the filter, the oil flows
of the control valve. The solenoid valves are actuated by
through passages in the transmission housing to the
the direction control lever or the Monotrol pedal. The
control valve. None of the pressure regulators are ad-
solenoids control the position of the direction spool.
justable.

6 5
4
1

7
3

2
3

1. PUMP INLET 1 2
2. PUMP FLANGE
3. PUMP OUTLET
4. CHECK PORT FOR PUMP PRESSURE
6 5. CHECK PORT FOR TORQUE CONVERTER
PRESSURE
6. PUMP RELIEF VALVE
7. TO OIL COOLER 12769



    
 

12770
Regulator for Clutch Pressure
7
(See FIGURE 10.)
5
4. CHAIN
The regulator for clutch pressure controls the oil pres-
1 INPUT SHAFT 5. PUMP SPROCKET sure for applying the clutches to engage the transmis-
2. STATOR 6. TRANSMISSION sion. The control pressure of the regulator is 724 to 860
SUPPORT PUMP kPa (105 to 125 psi). Oil that flows to the regulator for
3. DRIVE 7. HYDRAULIC
SYSTEM PUMP
clutch pressure flows to the torque converter circuit and
SPROCKET
oil lubrication circuit. An orifice in the valve body


   
  makes sure that there is always some oil flow to the
CONTROL VALVE (See FIGURE 10.) torque converter.

The control valve is installed on the top of the transmis-
sion. The inching spool, direction spool, modulator cir-
cuit, regulator for clutch pressure, and the regulator for
the torque converter are part of the control valve. The
position of the inching spool is controlled by the inching
Inching Spool Assembly
(See FIGURE 10.)
Inching is the slow movement of a lift truck while a high
engine speed is used for faster operation of the hydraulic
system. The inching function is normally used for fine

6
movements of the lift truck when handling a load. Oper-
ation of the inching pedal decreases the oil pressure to a
clutch so that the clutch is not completely applied.
The inching spool assembly has an inching spool, an
inching spool plunger, and three springs. Oil flows to
the inching spool from the transmission pump. The
inching spool controls the oil flow and pressure to the
direction spool. When the inching function is not used,
the oil flows through the inching spool to the direction
spool. Operation of the inching function causes a re-
striction of the oil flow to the direction spool and the
clutch. This operation decreases the oil pressure to the
direction spool (and clutch) as the inching spool plunger
is extended. When the inching spool plunger is com-
pletely extended, the oil pressure to the direction spool
(and clutch) is approximately zero. The clutch is then re-
leased and the transmission is in NEUTRAL.

20 18

17
7
19
4
10 11
8 9 21 4
4
4 11 12 16
5
4
13

5
4
6

14 5
5

4 3
2
1 4
1. VALVE BODY
2. PRESSURE REGULATOR, 5
TORQUE CONVERTER 15
3. PRESSURE REGULATOR,
CLUTCH
4. SPRING 10. SNAP RING 16. MODULATOR PISTON
5. PLUG AND O–RING 11. SPRING CAP 17. FORWARD SOLENOID
6. INCHING SPOOL PLUNGER 12. DIRECTION SPOOL 18. REVERSE SOLENOID
7. OIL SEAL 13. INCHING SPOOL 19. MANIFOLD
8. FITTING 14. MODULATOR REGULATOR 20. TUBE
9. COPPER GASKET 15. MODULATOR VALVE 21. GASKET



    

7
Direction Spool (See FIGURE 10.)
The direction spool controls the oil flow to the direction
clutches. The direction spool has three positions: FOR-
WARD, NEUTRAL, and REVERSE. When the direc-
tion spool is in its FORWARD position, oil flow and
pressure is sent to apply the forward clutch. When the
direction spool is in its REVERSE position, oil flow
and pressure is sent to apply the reverse clutch. When
the direction spool is in its NEUTRAL position, oil
pressure to both of the clutches is reduced to approxi-
mately zero. Both clutches are released and the trans-
mission is in NEUTRAL. When the direction spool is
moved to control a direction of travel, oil flows to and
from the clutch assemblies and also to the modulator
circuit.
Two electric solenoids control the position of the direc-
tion spool in the transmission control valve. Electric
switches in the Monotrol pedal or direction control lever
energize and deenergize the solenoids. The solenoids
open and close small valves that send oil flow to the
ends of the direction spool. Only one solenoid is ener-
gized for each direction. When a direction solenoid is
energized, the oil pressure to one end of the direction
spool moves the direction spool so that a clutch is
applied. The oil flow and pressure on the ends of the di-
rection spool move the spool to either its FORWARD
or REVERSE position.
Modulator Circuit (See FIGURE 10.)
A modulator circuit is used to control the rate of applica-
tion of the clutches. When the direction spool is moved
to select a direction of travel, the modulator circuit con-
trols the application of the clutch during a 1.5 to 2.0 sec-
ond period. The modulator circuit controls the pressure
increase to apply the clutch smoothly. This delay and
smooth application of pressure reduces the shock and
stress to the drive train when engaging the transmission
or changing directions.
Regulator for the Torque Converter
(See FIGURE 10.)
When the engine speed is low, the oil flows to the torque
converter through an orifice in the bore in the clutch
pressure regulator. The pressure regulator for the torque
8
converter stays closed until the pressure to the torque
converter increases to 724 to 827 kPa (105 to 120 psi).
When the pressure regulator for the torque converter
opens, the oil that does not go to the torque converter
flows directly to the passage to cool and lubricate the
parts of the transmission. The oil that flows to the torque
converter goes through the oil cooler before entering the
passage to cool and lubricate the clutches.
MONOTROL PEDAL (See FIGURE 11.)
The Monotrol pedal controls the speed of the engine and
the operation of the direction solenoids. The pedal pad is
held to the pedal frame by a pivot shaft. The pedal pad
rotates on the shaft and is held in the forward or reverse
position by magnets in the pedal frame. There are two
switches in the Monotrol pedal assembly. When the
monotrol pedal is in the forward position, both pedal
switch buttons are actuated. Battery power flows
through both pedal switches to energize the forward so-
lenoid. When the Monotrol pedal is in the reverse posi-
tion, both pedal switch buttons are released. Battery
power flows through both pedal switches to energize the
reverse solenoid.
Start Circuit, Monotrol Pedal
A switch in the hand lever for the parking brake supplies
electrical power to the monotrol pedal. The Monotrol
pedal energizes the solenoid valves. When the hand le-
ver for the parking brake is in the released position, the
switch in the hand lever is closed so that electric power
is supplied to the Monotrol pedal. The forward and re-
verse solenoid valves are controlled by the Monotrol
pedal. When the hand lever for the parking brake is in
the applied position, the switch is open so that both of
the solenoid valves close. When both of the solenoid
valves close (deenergized), the centering spring moves
the direction spool to the NEUTRAL position.
A switch in the hand lever for the parking brake ener-
gizes and deenergizes the start circuit on the ignition
switch. When the hand lever for the parking brake is in
the applied position, the start circuit can be energized so
that the lift truck can be started. When the hand lever for
the parking brake is in the released position, the start cir-
cuit is deenergized and the engine cannot be started.
 When the inching/brake pedal is fully pushed down, the
1 service brakes are applied and a disc on the end of the
inching spool actuates the neutral start switch. The neu-
3 tral start switch is in series electrically with a pressure
switch in the brake system. The disc actuates the neutral
start switch and the pressure in the brake system closes
4 the brake switch. The pressure switch in the brake sys-
tem makes sure that the brakes are applied. When the
neutral start switch and the brake switch are both closed,
the start circuit, controlled by the ignition switch, can be
5 energized. When the inching/brake pedal is fully pushed
2 6 down, oil pressure to the clutch pack is reduced to zero.
This operation makes sure that the transmission clutch
is disengaged and the brakes are applied when the en-
gine is started.

7
DIRECTION CONTROL LEVER
(See FIGURE 12.)

3. MAGNET The direction control lever is used to control the opera-

4. PIVOT SHAFT tion of the direction solenoids. When the lift truck has a
5. SPRING
1. PEDAL PAD 6. MAGNET PLATE direction control lever, an accelerator pedal is used to
2. PEDAL FRAME 7. SWITCH control the speed of the engine. The control lever actu-
ates four switches. In the NEUTRAL position, all of the
 
   

switches are closed. The lever must be in this position to

3 4 5
1

NO
NC NO NC NC NO NC NO
2

COLOR CODES
12777
Y = WHITE
4 W = GREEN
X = RED Y W X CB CC
5 CB = LIGHT GREEN 6
(REV SOLENOID)
CC = ORANGE/BLACK
(FWD SOLENOID)
1. CONTROL LEVER 4. NEUTRAL START SWITCH
2. SWITCH ACTUATOR 5. FORWARD CONTROL SWITCH
3. REVERSE CONTROL SWITCH 6. CONNECTOR TO COWL WIRING HARNESS
FIGURE 12. DIRECTION CONTROL LEVER

9
start the lift truck. When the lever is moved to the FOR-
WARD position, the forward switch is open and the re-
verse switch is closed. In this position the forward sole-
noid is energized. In the REVERSE position, the re-
verse switch is open and the forward switch is closed,
energizing the circuit for the reverse solenoid.
DIFFERENTIAL
The ring and pinion gears transfer power to the axle
shafts at right angles to the transmission. The ring and
pinion is also a gear reduction which increases the
torque to the drive wheels. The differential assembly
permits the drive wheels to turn at different speeds when
the lift truck is turning a corner.
The ring and pinion gears are held in position in the
transmission case by the differential housing. The hous-
ing for the drive axle is fastened to the differential hous-
ing. The output gear for the transmission is installed on
the pinion shaft. The output gear is in constant mesh
with the gears of the forward and reverse clutch hubs.

4
1
6 1
6 4

1351698
5 3 2
5 3 3 2
H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM) S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM)

1. RING GEAR 4. BEARING ASSEMBLY

2. PINION 5. OIL SEAL
3. SHIMS 6. OUTPUT GEAR


   

OIL FLOW DIAGRAMS
The following diagrams describe the oil flow through
the transmission hydraulic system in four different con-
ditions: NEUTRAL, operation of the modulator circuit
when the direction is changed FORWARD to RE-
VERSE, FORWARD, and FORWARD INCHING.
In each condition, the engine is running. The following
description for the oil flow from the transmission pump
is the same for all four conditions:

Oil from the transmission pump flows by the pump re-
lief valve and through the filter to the clutch pressure
regulator and the inching spool. The pump relief valve
10
controls the maximum oil pressure to 965 to 1170 kPa
(140 to 170 psi) at 2000 rpm.

The clutch pressure regulator controls the oil pressure
to the clutches at 724 to 860 kPa (105 to 125 psi).

An orifice in the transmission valve body at the clutch
pressure regulator makes sure there is always a supply
of oil to the torque converter.

The oil flows through the torque converter, through
the oil cooler, and to the clutches for lubrication and
cooling. The pressure regulator for the torque converter
controls the pressure to the torque converter at 724 to
827 kPa (105 to 120 psi).
 10 11

9 12
8 13

14

5 3 4 16
15

1 17
20

2
21

11139

22 19 18

1. SCREEN 13. MODULATOR REGULATOR

2. PUMP 14. INCHING SPOOL
3. PUMP RELIEF VALVE 15. DIRECTION SPOOL
4. FILTER 16. REVERSE SOLENOID
5. CHECK PORT FOR TORQUE CONVERTER 17. FORWARD SOLENOID
6. TORQUE CONVERTER 18. CHECK PORT FOR REVERSE CLUTCH
7. TORQUE CONVERTER REGULATOR PRESSURE
8. OIL COOLER 19. CHECK PORT FOR FORWARD
9. CHECK PORT FOR LUBRICATION CIRCUIT CLUTCH PRESSURE
10. CLUTCH PRESSURE REGULATOR 20. REVERSE CLUTCH
11. CHECK PORT FOR MODULATOR PRESSURE 21. FORWARD CLUTCH
12. MODULATOR CONTROL VALVE 22. CHECK PORT FOR PUMP PRESSURE


  
          

11
 ÇÇ ÇÇÇÇÇÇ
ÇÇÇÇÇÇÇ ÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇ
Ç Ç Ç
ÇÇÇÇÇÇÇ ÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇ
ÇÇÇ Ç Ç Ç 7

Ç ÇÇÇÇÇ Ç Ç Ç
Ç Ç
Ç Ç
8

ÇÇÇÇ ÈÈÈÈÈÈÈÈ ÈÈ
ÈÈÈÈ ÇÇ
ÇÇÇÇÇ ÇÇ Ç
6
10

ÇÇÇ È È
ÈÈ ÇÇÇÇÇÇ
Ç Ç Ç
ÇÇÇÇ ÈÈÈÈÈÈÈÈ
Ç ÈÈÈÈÈÈÈÈ È ÇÇ
Ç Ç Ç
Ç Ç 14

ÈÈÈÈÈÈÈ Ç Ç
ÈÈÈ È Ç Ç 21

ÈÈ ÈÈ ÇÇÇ Ç
Ç Ç
15

ÈÈ ÈÈ ÈÈ ÇÇ
ÇÇÇÇÇÇ Ç
3
ÈÈÈÈÈÈÈÈ
ÈÈ ÇÇÇ
ÇÇÇÇÇÇ
Ç Ç
ÇÇÇ
È ÇÇ
ÇÇ Ç Ç
ÇÇÇ
ÉÉÉÉÉ ÉÉ È Ç
È
12
20

ÉÉÉ È
É
ÉÉÈÈÈÈ
ÈÈÈÈÈ ÇÇ
ÇÇÇÇ ÉÉ
1

É ÈÈÈÈÈ
ÉÉÉ ÈÈÈ Ç ÇÇ
ÇÇÇ ÈÈ
ÉÉ SUCTION

ÈÈÈ2 4
ÈÈ SYSTEM PRESSURE
TORQUE CONVERTER

ÇÇ
13
PRESSURE

ÇÇ LUBRICATION
DRAIN

When the engine is running and the direction spool is in the NEUTRAL position, both clutches are
released and the transmission is disengaged. The inching function is not applied and oil flows through
the inching spool to the direction spool. With the direction spool in the NEUTRAL position, the oil flow
is stopped at the direction spool and all the oil flows to the clutch pressure regulator. At the clutch
pressure regulator, the oil has two paths for flow. One path is through the orifice in the valve body to
the torque converter and the lubrication circuits. The clutch regulator spool opens a second path to
the torque converter. The torque converter regulator then controls the oil pressure and flow to the
torque converter. If the oil pressure is too high, the torque converter regulator opens a path directly to
the lubrication circuit. The torque converter regulator is a by–pass for the torque converter and the oil
cooler. The modulator circuit is not in operation in the NEUTRAL position.


  
          

12
The modulator controls the rate of increase in hydraulic
pressure to apply a clutch. This delay reduces the shock 724 to
1.1 to 1.5 sec
and stress to the drive train when engaging the trans- 860 kPa
mission or changing the direction of travel. This Figure (105 to
shows the operation when the direction spool is moved 125 psi) 4
from FORWARD to REVERSE. The operation of the 1 2

PRESSURE
modulator circuit is the same for each movement of the
direction spool that causes the application of a clutch. 3
The graph shows the pressure changes in the modulator
circuit (and clutch pressure circuit) when a clutch is be-
ing applied. The numbers of the paragraphs refer to the
TIME 0.0 to 0.5 sec
pressure graph and indicate what is happening at that

È È
time.
1. CLUTCH DISENGAGES

È ÈÈ
È
È ÈÈÈ
ÈÈ
È
ÈÈÈÈ
2. OTHER CLUTCH FILLS WITH OIL

È È
3. MODULATOR CONTROL

È È
INCREASE IN PRESSURE
4. OTHER CLUTCH ENGAGED

È
ÈÈÈÈÈÈÈÈ
È 1. When the direction spool is moved from
FORWARD to REVERSE, the direction
spool opens a path from the FORWARD
clutch to the sump. The oil pressure to the
FORWARD clutch decreases rapidly to
zero. The oil pressure in the passage to the
REVERSE clutch is already zero. An orifice
in the clutch piston makes sure that oil does
not stay in the clutch because of centrifugal
force. Oil pressure in the bore of the modu-

È ÈÈ ÈÈ
È
ÈÈ È lator piston moves the spool of the modula-

È ÈÈ ÈÈÈÈ
È
tor valve and opens a path to the sump.

È ÈÈ
The oil in the bore of the modulator piston

ÈÈ
ÈÈÈÈÈÈÈ
drains rapidly to the sump.

È ÈÈ
2. Oil flows through the direction spool and
fills the cavity behind the REVERSE clutch
piston to apply the clutch. When the pres-
sure increases to approximately 205 kPa
(30 psi) to the REVERSE clutch, the pres-
sure causes the modulator regulator to
open a path to the sump. This action pre-
vents the pressure from increasing rapidly

ÈÈ SYSTEM PRESSURE
DRAIN
to apply the clutch.

INCHING PRESSURE

 

   
    

13
 ÈÈ È
ÈÈÈ
ÈÈ
ÈÈ È È È
3. When the oil pressure in the circuit between

ÈÈ
the modulator valve and the modulator piston

ÈÈ È
decreases to zero, the spring at the modulator
valve moves the modulator valve to close the

ÈÈÈÈÈÈ
ÈÈ È path to the sump. The oil must now flow

ÈÈÈÈÈÈ
ÈÈ through the orifice in the spool of the modulator
valve to the modulator piston. When the pres-

Í
sure in the modulator circuit is approximately

Í
205 kPa (30 psi), the oil pressure begins to
push the modulator piston in the bore. As the
pressure increases, the movement of the mod-
ulator piston increases the force of the spring
between the modulator piston and the modula-
tor regulator. The modulator regulator moves to
keep a constant difference in pressure of 103
kPa (15 psi) across the orifice in the modulator

È È
ÈÈÈÈ
È È
ÈÈÈ
ÈÈ
È
valve. This constant difference in pressure per-

È ÈÈÈÈ
ÈÈ È È
ÈÈ
ÈÈ mits the modulator piston to move at a constant

È
rate and causes the controlled application of

ÈÈÈÈÈÈÈÈÈÈ
È ÈÈÈÈÈÈÈ
ÈÈÈÈÈ
ÈÈ
the clutch.

ÈÈ
ÈÈÈÈÈÈÈÈ ÈÈÈÈÈÈ 4. When the modulator piston pushes the mod-

È È ÈÈ
ÈÈ È
È È È ulator regulator closed [approximately 480 kPa
(70 psi)], the path to the sump is completely

ÈÈÈ
ÈÈ È È
closed. The oil pressure then increases rapidly

È È
to the normal clutch pressure of 724 to 860

È È
ÈÈÈÈ È
ÈÈÈÈÈÈÈÈ
È ÈÈ
kPa (105 to 125 psi). The transmission is en-

È ÈÈÈ ÈÈÈÈÈ
gaged to move the lift truck.

ÈÈ
ÈÈ
ÈÈÈÈ ÈÈÈ
ÈÈÈ
È È ÈÈÈ
ÈÈ
ÈÈ SYSTEM PRESSURE
DRAIN
INCHING PRESSURE

 

   
    

14
 10 11

9 12
8 13

14

15
5 3 4 16

17
1
20

2
21

11139

22
19 18

1. SCREEN 13. MODULATOR REGULATOR

2. PUMP 14. INCHING SPOOL
3. PUMP RELIEF VALVE 15. DIRECTION SPOOL
4. FILTER 16. REVERSE SOLENOID
5. CHECK PORT FOR TORQUE CONVERTER 17. FORWARD SOLENOID
6. TORQUE CONVERTER 18. CHECK PORT FOR REVERSE CLUTCH
7. TORQUE CONVERTER REGULATOR PRESSURE
8. OIL COOLER 19. CHECK PORT FOR FORWARD
9. CHECK PORT FOR LUBRICATION CIRCUIT CLUTCH PRESSURE
10. CLUTCH PRESSURE REGULATOR 20. REVERSE CLUTCH
11. CHECK PORT FOR MODULATOR PRESSURE 21. FORWARD CLUTCH
12. MODULATOR CONTROL VALVE 22. CHECK PORT FOR PUMP PRESSURE

 

        

15
 ÇÇÇ ÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇÇ
ÇÇ Ç ÇÇ
ÇÇÇÇÇ
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Ç È ÈÇ ÇÈÇÇ
ÇÇÈÈÈÈÈÈÈÈÈÈ
Ç 8

ÈÈ
ÈÈ È ÈÈ
ÈÇ
ÇÇ Ç Ç È
ÇÇ
ÇÇÇÇ È Ç È
ÇÇ
6
10

ÇÇÇ È
ÈÈÈÈÈÈÈÈ È È ÈÈÈ
ÈÈ
ÈÈ ÈÈÈÈÈÈÈ
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Ç
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È
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ÇÇ 14

ÇÇÇÇ
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È
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ÈÈÈ È È Ç ÇÇ 21

È È
ÈÈ
ÈÈÈÈÈ È Ç ÇÇ 15

È È
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ÇÇ ÇÇ
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È
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3

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È
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È
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Ç Ç
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ÇÇ ÇÇ
ÇÇÇ
Ç
ÉÉÉ É È ÈÈÈ
ÈÈ È È 12 ÇÇ
É
ÉÉÉ ÉÉ
ÉÈÈÈÈÈ
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DRAIN

When the direction spool is moved from NEUTRAL to FORWARD position, oil pressure is now
available to the Forward clutch circuit and the modulator circuit. The modulator circuit controls
clutch engagement to cause a smooth change in direction and reduce the stress in the drive train.
Operation of the modulator circuit is described in FIGURE 15.

The hydraulic operation in REVERSE is similar to FORWARD except for the position of the direc-
tion control lever and the clutch that is applied.

 

        

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1. SCREEN 13. MODULATOR REGULATOR

2. PUMP 14. INCHING SPOOL
3. PUMP RELIEF VALVE 15. DIRECTION SPOOL
4. FILTER 16. REVERSE SOLENOID
5. CHECK PORT FOR TORQUE CONVERTER 17. FORWARD SOLENOID
6. TORQUE CONVERTER 18. CHECK PORT FOR REVERSE CLUTCH
7. TORQUE CONVERTER REGULATOR PRESSURE
8. OIL COOLER 19. CHECK PORT FOR FORWARD
9. CHECK PORT FOR LUBRICATION CIRCUIT CLUTCH PRESSURE
10. CLUTCH PRESSURE REGULATOR 20. REVERSE CLUTCH
11. CHECK PORT FOR MODULATOR PRESSURE 21. FORWARD CLUTCH
12. MODULATOR CONTROL VALVE 22. CHECK PORT FOR PUMP PRESSURE

 
       

  

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INCHING PRESSURE

Inching permits fine adjustments in the position of the lift truck while a higher rpm of the engine
increases the speed of operation of the hydraulic system. The inching function operates when the
operator pushes on the inching pedal. The direction spool must be in either the FORWARD or RE-
VERSE position. When the operator pushes on the inching pedal, the inching pedal pulls the inch-
ing plunger from the control valve and decreases the spring force on the inching spool. As the
spring force decreases, the inching spool moves to decrease the flow of oil to the direction spool.
The inching spool also opens a passage to the sump so that the pressure to the clutch will de-
crease. The position of the inching spool is controlled by the pressure on the inching spool and the
force of the springs on both ends of the inching spool. The inching spool will move to a position
that will balance oil pressure and spring pressure. The decrease in oil pressure permits the applied
clutch to slip. When the inching plunger is fully extended, the inching spool stops the flow of oil to
the direction spool and the clutch is released.

 
       

  

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 INTRODUCTION

GENERAL spindles can rotate a small amount in the axle mounts.

This section has the description and repair procedures
for the drive axle, wheel bearings and the mounts for the
axle housing. Information for the differential, and ring
and pinion gears is in the section SINGLE–SPEED
POWERSHIFT TRANSMISSION, 1300 SRM 501.
DESCRIPTION (See FIGURE 1.)
The outer ends of the spindles are the mounts for the
wheel bearings. The wheel bearings are tapered roller
bearings with the cups pressed into the hub/brake drum.
The nut on the end of the spindle holds and adjusts the
wheel bearings. The axle shafts are fastened to the hubs
by capscrews. The back plate and brake assembly are
fastened to the axle housing mounts. The axle housing
mounts are also the hangers for the mast.

The drive axle is held to the lift truck by axle mounts. The outer wheel bearing is lubricated with gear oil from
These axle mounts are fastened to the frame of the lift the differential housing. The inner wheel bearing is lu-
truck by nuts and bolts. The differential housing and bricated with wheel bearing grease.

1. AXLE SHAFT 7 8
2. NUT
3. LOCK PLATE
4. WASHER
5. BEARING CONE 5 9
6
6. BEARING CUP 4
7. HUB/BRAKE DRUM 3
5
8. WHEEL STUD 2 6
9

17

16

10
1 15
13
12
13
10 11
9. SEAL
10. BRAKE ASSEMBLY
11. MAST BUSHING
12. GREASE FITTING
13. AXLE HOUSING MOUNT
14 14. SPINDLE
15. O–RING
16. DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM) SHOWN. 17. BREATHER
S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) SIMILAR.

FIGURE 1. PARTS OF THE DRIVE AXLE

1
 REPAIRS
REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY 8. Put blocks under the differential housing. Remove the
(See FIGURE 1.) bolts and nuts that hold the axle housing mounts to the
frame of the lift truck. Remove the axle housing mounts.
WARNING 9. Remove the capscrews that hold the spindles to the
When putting the lift truck on blocks, make sure the differential housing. Remove the spindle. See
surface is solid, even and level. Any blocks used to FIGURE 2.
support the lift truck must be solid, one piece units.

1. Put blocks on each side (front and back) of the steer-

ing tires to prevent movement of the lift truck.

2. Raise the lift truck and put blocks under the frame so
that the drive wheels just touch the floor. Put blocks un-
der the counterweight for stability.

3. Remove the mast assembly as described in the section

     

4. Drain the oil from the differential.

WARNING 9589
Deflate the H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM) tires com-
pletely before removing them from the lift truck. Air FIGURE 2. REMOVE THE SPINDLE
pressure in the tires can cause the tire and rim parts 10. Disassemble the brake assembly as described in the
to explode causing serious injury or death. section 


 
    Re-
Never loosen the nuts that hold the inner and outer
wheel halves together when there is air pressure in
the tire.
5. Remove the wheels. Remove the capscrews that hold
the axle shafts to the brake drums. Remove the axle
shafts.
6. Bend the lock plate and remove the nut from the spin-
dle. Remove the washer and bearing cone. Slide the
hub/brake drum from the spindle. If the assembly can
not be removed easily, loosen the brake shoes. Put a
screwdriver through the hole in the back plate to turn the
adjuster wheel and loosen the brake shoes. Pull the ac-
tuator away from the adjuster wheel while the adjuster
wheel is turned up.
7. Disconnect the brake lines to the wheel cylinders.
Disconnect the parking brake cables at the parking
brake lever. Loosen the cable clamps for the parking
brake cables.
2
move the back plate from the mounts for the axle hous-
ing.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
WARNING
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic, and
can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning sol-
vents, always follow the solvent manufacturer’s rec-
ommended safety precautions.
Clean all the parts of the drive axle with solvent.
Inspect the bearings and seals for damage. The spindles
must turn freely in the mounts. The splines for the axle
shafts must not be damaged.
ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION
(See FIGURE 1.)
1. Install new O–rings on the spindles. Install the
spindle into the differential housing. Install the
capscrews and lock washers. Tighten the capscrews as
shown in the TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
 4. Install new grease seals in the hub. See FIGURE 6.
Install the outer seal with the lip toward the outer bear-
ing. Install the inner bearing and seal. See FIGURE 5.
Put wheel bearing grease in the bearing that is between
the seals.

9588

FIGURE 3. INSTALL THE O–RING

2. Assemble the brake assembly to the mount for the
axle housing as described in the section THE BRAKE
SYSTEM, 1800 SRM 506.
3. See FIGURE 4. Lubricate the spindles with Never
Seez
and slide the mounts with the brake assembly on
FIGURE 5. INSTALL THE OIL SEAL
the spindle. Install and tighten the bolts and nuts as
shown in the TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
5. Install the hub/brake drum assembly on the axle hous-
ing.

6. Install the outer bearing cone on the axle housing. In-

stall the washer and lock plate. Install the nut. Tighten
the nut to 205 Nm (150 lbf ft) torque while rotating the
hub. Loosen the nut until the hub turns freely. The
torque must be less than 25 Nm (20 lbf ft) torque.
Tighten the nut to 35 Nm (25 lbf ft) torque or until the
first alignment position after 35 Nm (25 lbf ft) torque.
Bend the lock plate over the nut. See FIGURE 7.
9590

7. Adjust the clearance of the brake shoes as described in

FIGURE 4. LUBRICATE THE SPINDLE the section THE BRAKE SYSTEM, 1800 SRM 506.

3
 4 8
5 7 9 11
5
3 10

12

1. AXLE SHAFT 5. BEARING CUP AND CONE 9. AXLE HOUSING MOUNT

2. NUT 6. HUB/BRAKE DRUM 10. O–RING
3. LOCK PLATE 7. INNER SEAL 11. DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
4. WASHER 8. OUTER SEAL 12. SPINDLE
FIGURE 6. HUB ASSEMBLY

8. Install the wheels and nuts and tighten the nuts for the
wheels as shown in the TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.

9. Put sealant on the flange of the axle shaft. Install the

axle shafts and capscrews. Tighten the capscrews as
shown in the TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.

10. Install and tighten the drain plug. Fill the differential
housing with SAE 90 EP gear oil through the fill hole.
Install the fill plug. Connect the brake lines and parking
brake cables. Remove the air from the brake system as
described in the section THE BRAKE SYSTEM,
1800 SRM 506. 9592

FIGURE 7. INSTALL THE LOCK PLATE

11. Install the mast as described in the section for 
 
  


4
 TROUBLESHOOTING
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE
The lift truck will not move. An axle shaft is broken.
The drive axle has leaks. The drain or fill plug is loose or missing.
The seals have damage.
The O–rings have damage.
The drive axle makes noise. The bearings have damage.
The brake assembly is damaged.
The oil level is too low.
The axle capscrews are loose.

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATION
ITEM
H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM) S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM)
Back Plate to Axle Mount Capscrews 225 Nm (166 lbf ft) 255 Nm (188 lbf ft)
Wheel Cylinder Capscrews 18 to 27 Nm ( 13 to 20 lbf ft) 18 to 27 Nm ( 13 to 20 lbf ft)
Spindle to Differential Housing 66 Nm (50 lbf ft) 90 Nm (66 lbf ft)
Axle Shaft Capscrews 98 Nm (75 lbf ft) 90 Nm (66 lbf ft)
Axle Mounts to Frame 325–380 Nm (240–280 lbf ft)1 473 Nm (350 lbf ft)2
Wheel Nuts 610 to 680 Nm (450 to 500 lbf ft) 237 to 305 Nm ( 175 to 225 lbf ft)
1 Torque wrench on head of capscrew.
2 Torque wrench on nut.

5
 INTRODUCTION
GENERAL
This section has the description and repair procedures
for the steering axle. See the following sections for addi-
tional information on the parts of the steering system:
THE STEERING CONTROL UNIT and HYDRAU-
LIC SYSTEM.
DESCRIPTION (See FIGURE 1.)
The steering axle assembly includes an axle frame,
steering cylinder and two spindle and hub assemblies.
The steering axle is connected to the frame with center
pivot mounts. The center pivot mounts on the axle frame
are fastened to the lift truck frame with rubber mounts.
The steering axle can make an articulated motion and
give the lift truck a smoother travel over rough surfaces.
The end caps of the steering cylinder are also the mounts
for the cylinder and are held to the shell by the mount
capscrews. O–rings, seals, and wipers in the end caps
are used to keep the oil inside of the steering cylinder.
1. SPINDLE AND 4. RUBBER MOUNT
HUB ASSEMBLY 5. STEERING CYLINDER
2. AXLE FRAME 6. NUT AND BOLT
3. BRACKET
2
4
3
FIGURE 1. STEERING AXLE
The ends of the piston rod extend from both ends of the
cylinder. A single piston and the seal are at the center of
the rod. Oil pressure on one side of the piston moves the
piston in the bore. When the piston moves in the bore, it
pushes an equal amount of oil from the opposite end of
the cylinder. This oil returns to the steering control unit.
When the piston reaches the end of the stroke, a relief
valve controls the oil pressure so that the components
are not damaged. Tie rods connect the spindle arms to
the cylinder.
Each spindle turns on two tapered roller bearings. The
spindle and bearings are held in the axle frame by a king-
pin. The preload on the bearings is controlled by a
threaded nut on the bottom of the king pin.
The wheel or hub rotates on two tapered roller bearings
and is held on the spindle by a castle nut. The preload on
the bearings in the hub is adjusted by the castle nut. A
grease seal in the inner hub and a hub cap protect the
bearings from dirt and water. A wear sleeve in the inner
hub protects the hub from wear by the seal.
4
12768
1
 REPAIRS
WARNING
PUTTING THE LIFT TRUCK ON BLOCKS
The lift truck must be put on blocks for some types of
maintenance and repair. The removal of the follow-
ing assemblies will cause large changes in the center
of gravity: drive axle, battery or counterweight.
When the lift truck is put on blocks, put additional
blocks in the following positions:
1. If the mast and drive axle are removed, put blocks
under the counterweight so that the lift truck can not
fall backward.
2. If the battery (electric lift trucks) or counter-
weight is removed, put blocks under the mast so that
the lift truck can not fall forward.
Put the lift truck on blocks on a solid, even and level
surface. Make sure the blocks of stands have enough
capacity to hold the lift truck. Use additional blocks
next to the tires as necessary to prevent movement of
the lift truck. Make sure the lifting devices used dur-
ing repairs can lift the weight of the parts and assem-
blies.
STEERING AXLE ASSEMBLY
NOTE: The steering axle assembly without the wheels
weighs approximately 115 kg (250 lb)
Removal (See FIGURE 1.)
The steering axle can be removed without removing the
counterweight. If necessary, remove the counterweight
as described in the FRAME.
1. Make sure the wheels are set for straight travel. Put
the lift truck on blocks so that the steering axle can be
removed. The top of the axle frame must have clearance
under the counterweight so that the steering axle can be
removed.
2. Disconnect the hydraulic lines at the steering cylin-
der. Install caps on the cylinder and put plugs in the hy-
draulic lines. The caps will prevent the spindles from
turning when the axle is removed from under the lift
truck.
3. Slide a floor jack or the forks of another lift truck un-
der the steering axle. Raise the lifting device until it
2
holds the weight of the axle assembly. Remove the four
capscrews and nuts that fasten the two brackets under
the rubber mounts. Remove the brackets and slowly
lower the axle assembly onto the wheels. Carefully roll
the axle assembly from under the lift truck.
Installation (See FIGURE 1.)
1. Install the rubber mounts on the axle as follows:.
a. E1.25–1.75XL (E25–35XL), J2.00–3.00XL
(J40–60XL), H/J2.00–3.20XM (H/J40–65XM):
Make sure the PART NO. on the mounts is right side
up and facing away from the axle frame.
b. J1.25–1.75XL (Europe only): Make sure the
PART NO. on the mounts is upside down and facing
away from the axle frame.
2. Apply a lubricant that is approved for use with rubber
to the rubber mount. The lubricant is used where the rub-
ber mount fits into the frame brackets.
3. Use a floor jack or another lift truck to put the steering
axle into the position in the frame. Make sure the rubber
mounts fit inside the frame brackets for the mounts.
4. Install the bottom brackets. Tighten the four bracket
capscrews and nuts to 88 N.m (65 lbf ft).
5. Remove the plugs and caps and connect the hydraulic
lines to the steering cylinder.
6. Operate the steering system to remove the air from the
system. Turn the steering wheel several times from one
stop to the other stop. Check for hydraulic leaks.
WHEELS AND HUBS
Removal and Disassembly
(See FIGURE 2.)
WARNING
Completely deflate the tires before removing them
from the lift truck. Air pressure in the tires can cause
the tire and rim parts to explode causing serious in-
jury or death.
Never loosen the nuts that hold the inner and outer
wheel halves together when there is air pressure in
the tire.
 H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM) SHOWN, OTHERS SIMILAR
21
22 1
23
19
20
16

25* 18 17
26*

27*
5
3
19 6
18 18
2
17 18
10 7 10 8
14 4
16 17
9 12 3
16 9
24 4
17 10
15 11
28 11
29 14 4
28
4 10
1. AXLE FRAME 13
2. WASHER 12. TIE ROD
3. BOLT 13. GREASE FITTING 22. KING PIN
4. BELLEVILLE WASHER 14. CASTLE NUT 23. GROOVE PIN
5. RUBBER MOUNT 15. SLEEVE 24. WEAR SLEEVE
6. BRACKET 16. SEAL 25. HUB*
7. NUT 17. BEARING CONE 26. STUD*
8. STEERING CYLINDER 18. BEARING CUP 27. WHEEL NUT*
9. PIN 19. SPINDLE 28. COTTER PIN
10. SNAP RING 20. SPACER 29. GREASE CAP
11. BUSHING 21. O–RING * PNEUMATIC TIRES ONLY

FIGURE 2. STEERING AXLE

1. Put the axle on blocks so that the tires are raised from
the floor. Remove the grease cap. Remove the cotter pin
and the castle nut. Remove the outer bearing cone. Slide
the wheel from the spindle. Remove the inner bearing
cone and the seal from the spindle.
vents, always follow the solvent manufacturer’s rec-
ommended safety procedures.
Clean all parts with solvent. Make sure the bearings are
clean.

2. If the wheel bearings must be replaced, use a brass
drift to remove the bearing cups and the wear sleeve.
3. Repeat the procedure for the other wheel.
Cleaning
WARNING
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic and
can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning sol-
Assembly And Installation
(See FIGURE 2.)
1. If the wheel bearings must be replaced, use a press to
install the new bearing cups in the wheel or hub. Install a
new wear sleeve in the wheel or hub. Install the grease
seal on the spindle. Lubricate the bearing cones with
grease. Make sure the bearings are filled with grease.
Install the bearing cone on the spindle.
3
 the axle. Use a driver to remove the bearings and seals
CAUTION from the spindle.
Do not damage the seals during installation.
NOTE: Dirt and corrosion can make the spacer difficult
to remove from the steering axle frame. A machined
2. Carefully slide the wheel or hub onto the spindle.
space is made in the top of the spacer so that the spacer
Install the outer bearing cone.
can be removed with a bearing puller.
3. Install the castle nut. Tighten the castle nut to 200 N.m
Installation (See FIGURE 2., FIGURE 3.)
(150 lbf ft) while the wheel is rotated. Loosen the nut to
less than 27 N.m (20 lbf ft). Tighten the nut to 34 N.m 1. Use new bearings and seals. Apply grease to the bear-
(25 lbf ft). If the cotter pin can not be installed with the ings and king pin as they are installed in the axle. Install
nut tightened to 34 N.m (25 lbf ft), tighten the castle nut the bearings in the spindle. Install the seals in the correct
until the cotter pin can be installed. Install the cotter pin. position. Align the spindle in the axle and install the
king pin. Make sure a new O–ring is installed at the top
4. Repeat the procedure for the other wheel. of the king pin. Install the sleeve on the bottom of the
king pin. Install the castle nut and tighten it to 90 N.m
1 (66 lbf ft). Loosen the castle nut to less than 34 N.m (25
3
1. O–RING lbf ft). Tighten the nut to 34 N.m (25 lbf ft). If the cotter
2. KING PIN 2
3. GROOVE PIN pin can not be installed with the nut tightened to 34 N.m
4. SPACER (25 lbf ft), tighten the castle nut until the cotter pin can
5. SEAL 4 be installed. Install the cotter pin.
6. BEARING CONE
7. BEARING CUP 5 2. Connect the tie rods. Make sure the belleville washers
8. SPINDLE are installed on both sides of the bushings.
9. SEAL 6
10. WEAR SLEEVE 3. Install the wheels or hubs. See the section WHEELS
11. CASTLE NUT AND HUBS for the proper installation procedure. On
12. COTTER PIN 7
the H/J2.00–3.20XM (H/J40–65XM), tighten the wheel
13. GREASE CAP
8 nuts to 237 to 305 N.m (175 to 225 lbf ft). On the
14. SLEEVE
9 J1.25–1.75XL (J25–35XL) and the J2.00–3.00XL
10 (J40–60XL), tighten the wheel nuts to 155 N.m (115 lbf
6
7
ft).
7 STEERING CYLINDER
11 7
6 Removal And Disassembly
5 (See FIGURE 4.)
6 14
NOTE: The end caps of the steering cylinder are held in
12
12 the shell by the cylinder mount capscrews. To prevent
13 11 oil leaks at the caps, hold the caps on the shell during re-
FIGURE 3. SPINDLE ASSEMBLY moval.
SPINDLES, BEARINGS AND TIE RODS 1. Disconnect the hydraulic lines at the steering cylin-
der. Install caps in the fittings on the cylinders and put
Removal (See FIGURE 3.) caps on the hydraulic lines.
2. Remove the snap rings from the pins in the tie rods.
Remove the wheel or hub from the steering axle spindle.
Remove the pins.
Remove the pin to disconnect the tie rod from the
spindle. Remove the cotter pin and the castle nut from 3. Remove the capscrews or nuts and bolts that fasten the
the bottom of the king pin. Use a driver to remove the cylinder to the axle frame. Hold the end caps on the shell
king pin. Remove the sleeve and then the spindle from and remove the steering cylinder.
4
4. Hold the end of the steering cylinder over a drain pan.
Remove the cap for the hydraulic fitting from each end
cap. Push the rod toward the end of the shell that is over
the drain pan. Oil will drain from the cylinder. Repeat
the procedure for the other end.
5. Carefully slide one end cap from the shell. Carefully
pull the cylinder rod and piston from the shell. Keep the
cylinder rod aligned in the center of the shell during re-
moval so that the parts are not damaged. Remove the
end cap from the rod. Remove the other end cap from the
shell. Remove all seals, wipers, and O–rings.
Cleaning and Inspection
WARNING
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic and
can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning sol-
vents, always follow the solvent manufacturer’s rec-
ommended safety procedures.
Clean all parts in solvent.
Inspect the piston rod for grooves or damage. Remove
small scratches with fine emery cloth. Inspect the cylin-
der bore for damage. Inspect the mounts for cracks.
Assembly and Installation
(See FIGURE 4.)
1. Put the seals and wipers in warm hydraulic oil. Install
the quadrant ring and piston seal as shown in
FIGURE 4.
CAUTION
Do not damage the O–rings, seals or wipers during
installation.
2. Lubricate the O–rings, seals, and wipers with O–ring
lubricant and install them in the end caps. Install one end
cap on the cylinder rod.
3. Carefully slide the cylinder rod and piston into the
shell. Keep the cylinder rod aligned in the center of the
shell during installation so that the parts are not dam-
aged. Carefully slide the end cap into the shell. Careful-
ly install the other end cap on the rod and shell. Put caps
on the hydraulic fittings of the end caps.

7 2
9
3
8
4
5

6
5. BACK–UP RING
1. ROD 6. SHELL
3 5 2. WIPER 7. PISTON SEAL
2 4 3. END CAP 8. ROD SEAL
8 9. QUADRANT RING
4. O–RING

3 4 5 6 9 7 3 8 5
1 2

FIGURE 4. STEERING CYLINDER

5
4. Hold the end caps and install the cylinder on the axle
frame using the capscrews or nuts and capscrews. On
the H/J2.00–3.20XM (H/J40–65XM), tighten the caps-
crews to 225 N.m (165 lbf ft). On the E/J1.25–1.75XL
(E25–35XL) and the J2.00–3.00XL (J40–60XL), tight-
en the capscrews and nuts to 165 N.m (122 lbf ft).
NOTE: On J2.00–3.00XL (J40–60XL) units the nuts
are against the end caps.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Steer Axle Mount Bracket Hardware
Wheel/Hub Nut
Initial Torque
Final Torque
King Pin Nut
Initial Torque
Final Torque
Wheel Nuts
H/J2.00–3.20XM (H/J40–65XM)
J1.25–1.75XL (J25–35XL)
J2.00–3.00XL (J40–60XL)
Steer Cylinder Mount Hardware
H/J2.00–3.20XM (H/J40–65XM)
E/J1.25–1.75XL (E/J25–35XL)
J2.00–3.00XL (J40–60XL)
6
5. Install the tie rods between the cylinder and the
spindles. Make sure the belleville washers are on each
side of the bushings in the tie rods. Install the pins and
snap rings.
6. Remove the caps and connect the hydraulic lines to
the steering cylinder. Operate the steering system to re-
move the air from the cylinder and the hydraulic system.
Turn the steering wheel several times from one stop to
the other.
88 N.m (65 lbf ft)
200 N.m (150 lbf ft)
34 N.m (25 lbf ft)
90 N.m (66 lbf ft)
34 N.m (25 lbf ft)
237 to 305 N.m (175 to 225 lbf ft)
155 N.m (115 lbf ft)
155 N.m (115 lbf ft)
225 N.m (165 lbf ft)
165 N.m (122 lbf ft)
165 N.m (122 lbf ft)

PROBLEM
There is no action when the
steering wheel is turned.
The lift truck steers slowly.
The steering wheel is hard to
turn.
The steering wheel turns the
tires in the wrong direction.
The tires continue to turn
after the steering wheel
stops.
Steering wheel kicks back in
both directions.
TROUBLESHOOTING
POSSIBLE CAUSE
There is no oil or not enough oil in the
hydraulic tank.
The lines are loose at the control unit
or manifold block.
The sleeve and spool in the control
unit will not move.
Steering cylinder leaks.
Spacer for center pin is not installed.
The oil level is low. There is no oil in
the tank.
The lines to the control unit are dam-
aged.
The sleeve and spool in the control
unit are worn.
The parts of the metering section are
worn.
The check valve in the control unit
does not open.
The check valve or relief valve in the
manifold block is damaged or is
not adjusted correctly.
Priority valve is not operating correctly. Clean or repair priority valve.
Steering relief pressure is too low.
Engine idle speed is too low.
The lines at the control unit are not
correctly connected.
The neutral position springs are bro-
ken.
The sleeve or spool has damage.
Center shaft is not correctly aligned
with metering section.
PROCEDURE OR ACTION
Fill the tank to the correct level.
Tighten fittings.
Repair steering control unit.
Repair steering cylinder.
Assemble steering control unit correct-
ly.
Fill the tank to the correct level.
Repair oil lines.
Repair steering control unit.
Repair steering control unit.
Clean or repair steering control unit.
Clean or replace manifold block.
Adjust relief pressure.
Adjust idle speed to specifications.
Connect lines correctly.
Repair steering control unit.
Repair steering control unit.
Correctly assemble steering control
unit.
7
 INTRODUCTION
GENERAL freely through the steering control unit. The oil does not
flow to the steering cylinder.
This section has the description and repair procedures
for the steering housing and the steering control unit.
1 NOTE: Instrument cluster not shown.
Additional information on parts of the steering system
are in the following sections: STEERING AXLE and
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM.

DESCRIPTION
This section covers the steering column assembly used
on the “XM” series of lift trucks. This assembly uses a 2
steering control unit with hose connections on the bot-
tom of the unit. See FIGURE 4. The steering housing
has the mounts for the steering column and the steering
control unit. The steering wheel is installed on the steer-
ing column. The housing is adjustable and is held in 5 3
position by a latch. The position of the housing can be
changed for operator comfort. The steering housing is
6
also the mount for some control levers and the instru- 4
ment cluster. 7

The steering system is a hydraulic system that does not

6
have a mechanical connection between the steering
H2.00–3.20XM
wheel and the steering axle. The control of the steering (H45–65XM)
is through a hydraulic circuit. SHOWN
If the hydraulic pump for the steering system does not 1. STEERING WHEEL
2. STEERING COLUMN
operate, steering is still possible. A check valve permits 3. STEERING
the steering control unit to control the steering cylinder. CONTROL UNIT
The lift truck is difficult to steer when the steering pump 4. KNOB
is not operating, but the steering control unit can operate 8 5. LATCH
the steering cylinder and make steering possible. 6. COVER
7. COWL
8. MOUNT
OPERATION (See FIGURE 2.)
The steering control unit is a rotary valve operated by FIGURE 1. STEERING HOUSING ASSEMBLY
the steering wheel. During the steering operation, the As the steering wheel is turned, the spool just begins to
steering control unit controls the direction of flow and rotate. The springs try to move the sleeve to keep the
amount of oil that flows to the steering cylinder. The neutral position between the spool and sleeve. However,
steering cylinder in the axle actuates the steering linkage the force necessary to turn the rotor is greater than the
to move the steer tires. Hydraulic oil returns from the pressure of the springs. The springs begin to bend, let-
steering cylinder to the steering control unit and then re- ting the spool move a small amount within the sleeve.
turns to the hydraulic tank. The spool stops moving when it touches the center pin.
Turning the steering wheel actuates three main parts of In this position, the holes in the sleeve and the spool are
the steering control unit: (1) The spool for the control aligned. Oil coming into the control unit flows to the
section, (2) the sleeve for the control section and (3) the metering section.
rotor in the metering section. When the steering wheel is More rotation of the steering wheel causes the spool to
not moving, the spool and sleeve are held in the neutral rotate the pin. This action causes the rotation of the
(center) position by springs. During this time, oil flows sleeve and the rotor in the metering section. The oil then

1
flows to one side of the steering cylinder. Hydraulic oil
from the other side of the steering cylinder returns
through the control section of the steering control unit.
When the steering wheel stops moving, the metering ac-
tion in the metering section also stops. The neutral posi-
tion springs return the sleeve to the neutral position
stopping oil flow to or from the cylinder. The pressure
stays in the steering cylinder to keep the steer tires in po-
sition. Oil from the pump flows through the steering
control unit to the tank or other parts of the system. To
return the steer wheels to the straight position, the steer-
ing wheel must be rotated in the opposite direction. The
steering control unit will operate as described, but all
parts will rotate in the opposite direction.

4 5
3
6
2
7
8

10

1. SPRING SET
2. SPOOL
3. SLEEVE
4. CENTER SHAFT
5. STATOR
6. ROTOR
7. CONTROL SECTION 9
8. METERING SECTION
9. CHECK BALL
10. CENTER PIN

FIGURE 2. STEERING CONTROL UNIT

REPAIRS
STEERING WHEEL AND COLUMN
ASSEMBLY
(See FIGURE 3. through FIGURE 5.)
The upper end of the steering shaft has splines for the
steering wheel. A large nut holds the steering wheel onto
the steering shaft. The horn button is the cover for the
center of the steering wheel. The lower end of the steer-
ing shaft has splines or a tang to engage the steering con-
trol unit. A push rod from the horn button actuates the
horn switch.
The steering column assembly is adjustable and held in
position by a latch. The position of the steering column
assembly can be changed as needed for different opera-
tor requirements. An access cover on the steering col-
umn give access to the steering control unit, key switch,
horn switch and if installed, the direction switch.

2
 TYPICAL ARRANGEMENT ELECTRIC
UNITS
16 22
18 21
17

19

Direction Lever (Optional)

20
18

On–Demand Power Steering (Optional)

2
1. HORN BUTTON ASSEMBLY
2. NUT
3. STEERING WHEEL
4. STEERING COLUMN
HOUSING
5. KEY SWITCH 6
6. STEERING COLUMN 3
7. SLEEVE
8. WASHER
9. HORN SWITCH 5
10. REAR COVER
9
10 7
8 4

11
11. CONTROL UNIT
12 MOUNT BRACKET
12. STEERING CONTROL
UNIT
13. LATCH
14. SPRING
15. PIN
16. DRIVEN GEAR
17. DRIVE GEAR
15 18. BRACKET
13 19. OPTICAL ENCODER
14 20. TRANSDUCER
21. DIRECTION SWITCH
22. DIRECTION LEVER
HANDLE

FIGURE 3. STEERING WHEEL AND STEERING COLUMN ASSEMBLY

3
 14
11 15
5 2 14
3 6

13

7
8
12
10 1

1
15

WHT GRN

BLK RED
4

12

13 10

63 61
11959

REAR VIEW 10

11. SOCKET HEAD SCREW

12. ACTIVATOR ASSEMBLY
1. STEERING CONTROL UNIT 6. KEY SWITCH 13. BRACKET
2. STEERING SHAFT 7. CLAMP 14. OPTICAL ENCODER AND
3. PLASTIC TUBE 8. BRACKET BRACKET
4. LATCH 9. HORN SWITCH 15. ENCODER/ACTIVATOR WIRE
5. PIN 10. LIFT TRUCK WIRE HARNESS HARNESS

FIGURE 4. STEERING COLUMN ASSEMBLY

4
 4
18 14 6
18 6
14 15
15 13 7

17 17
16 18
8
5 16
18
19 8
9
20 10 9
11 19

3 PETRI STEERING WHEEL

2 1. STEERING COLUMN
2. STEERING CONTROL UNIT
3. BRACKET
4. STEERING WHEEL
21 5. STEERING SHAFT
1 6. HORN COVER
7. BASE PLATE
22 8. BEARING
23 12 9. PLASTIC TUBE
10. PLASTIC WASHER
11. SPRING
12. LATCH
13. LOCK RING
14. ADJUSTER SPOOL NUT
15. STEERING WHEEL NUT
16. EXTERNAL SNAP RING
17. INTERNAL SNAP RING
SIDE VIEW 18. PUSH ROD
19. PIN
20. HORN SWITCH
21. BRACKET
22. LATCH PIVOT PIN
11959
INPUT 23. SOCKET HEAD SCREW
RETURN INPUT

RIGHT TURN
2

12
LEFT TURN
RETURN
RIGHT TURN LEFT TURN
DANFOSS TRW

FIGURE 5. STEERING WHEEL AND STEERING COLUMN ASSEMBLY

5
Removal Of The Assembly Components
(See FIGURE 3., FIGURE 4. and FIGURE 5.)
NOTE: This procedure is for the removal of all compo-
nents of the steering column assembly. All components
are not often removed for a repair procedure. Do only
those steps of the procedure necessary to remove the re-
quired component.
CAUTION
Disconnect the negative battery cable on internal
combustion trucks. Disconnect the battery connec-
tor on electric trucks. Disconnect the battery before
removing any covers.
1. Attach a tag on the battery connector or negative cable
stating “DO NOT CONNECT BATTERY”. Move the
steering column to the most forward position. Remove
the access cover from the steering column.
2. Remove the key switch from the housing of the steer-
ing column. Make an identification of the electric wires
and disconnect them from the key switch.
3. On units with the Direction Control Handle, remove
the handle, dust cover and large nut that fastens the di-
rection switch. Remove the direction switch from the
housing of the steering column. Make an identification
of the electric wires and disconnect them from the direc-
tion switch.
4. Remove the capscrew that fastens the bracket for the
horn switch to the housing of the steering column. Move
the horn switch and bracket away from the steering col-
umn.
5. Remove the horn cover, snap ring and base plate (no
base plate in Petri steering wheel, see FIGURE 5.). Lift
the push rod and adjuster spool from the top of the steer-
ing shaft. Remove the large hex nut and remove the
steering wheel from the shaft. A puller makes removal
of the steering wheel easier, but not all steering wheels
have puller holes.
6. Some electric units have On–Demand steering. Re-
move the optical encoder and activator and the brackets
of the On–Demand steering. Make an identification of
the electrical wires and disconnect them from the as-
semblies.
7. Make an identification of the hydraulic hoses at the
steering control unit so they can be connected correctly
during assembly. Some hydraulic hoses have fittings
that will permit disconnection at the steering control
6
unit. Disconnect the other hydraulic hoses at the base of
the cowl, the control valve or the steering pump. Re-
move all mount clamps so that the hoses will turn freely
and not become twisted. Disconnect the hydraulic hoses
at the bottom of the steering control unit. Install plugs at
all hoses and ports to prevent dirt from entering the
steering hydraulic system.
8. If there is a display panel on the steering column hous-
ing, disconnect all plugs connected to the display panel.
NOTE: The repair procedures for the instrument cluster
for the S/H2.00–3.20XM (S/H40–65XM) and
H/S1.50–2.00XMS (H/S30–40XMS) are in the section
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER, 2200 SRM 514.
NOTE: The repair procedures for the instrument cluster
for the E/J2.00–3.20XM (E/J45–65XM),
J1.60–2.00XMT (J30–40XMT) and N30XMH are in
the section ELECTRICAL SYSTEM, 2200 SRM
560.
9. Remove the capscrews, lock washers and lock plates
that fasten the steering column to the pivots on the lift
truck. Remove the steering column from the lift truck.
Make sure the electric wires and the hydraulic hoses are
not damaged as the steering column is removed.
10. Do the following procedure to remove the steering
shaft:
a. Move the plastic tube and washer toward the
steering control unit and compress the spring for
the horn switch. Then remove the pin that goes
through the steering shaft and engages the plastic
tube.
b. Remove the external snap ring that holds the
bearing in the steering column. On units that have
On–Demand steering, loosen the set screw in the
gear on the shaft. The return spring, washer and
tube are removed at the same time as the steering
shaft and bearing are removed. Use a small pry-
bar at the bottom of the steering shaft near the
steering control unit to remove the steering shaft
and bearing (also, return spring, washer and tube)
from the steering column.
11. Remove the two capscrews that hold the steering
control unit and the bracket to the steering column. Re-
move the four capscrews or nuts that fasten the steering
control unit to the bracket.
Disassembly Of The Steering Control Unit
STEP 1.
Disassemble the steering control unit as shown in Install the steering column and steering control
FIGURE 7. unit in the bracket. Install the steering wheel
and nut. Tighten the nut to 40 to 54 Nm (30 to
40 lbf ft). Connect the wire at the horn button
Cleaning Of The Steering Control Unit and install the horn button.
1
WARNING
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic, and
2
can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning sol-
vents, always follow the solvent manufacturer’s rec-
ommended safety precautions. 3

Clean all the parts in solvent. Dry the parts with com-
pressed air. Do not dry the parts with a cloth. Make sure
all surfaces are free of scratches and sharp edges. 4
5

Assembly Of The Steering Control Unit 6

Use new seals, O–rings and neutral position springs dur-

ing assembly as shown in FIGURE 8. Lubricate all parts 7
with clean hydraulic oil.

Installation Of The Steering Control Unit

Install the steering control unit and column assembly on

the bracket as shown in FIGURE 6.
Installation Of The Assembly Components

1. Install the steering column on the cowl mounts. Lu-

bricate the pivots with multi–purpose grease and install
the capscrews into the housing.

2. Fasten the two halves of the mount bracket to the

steering control unit. Make sure to install bracket for the
activator assembly. Install the steering control unit as-
8
sembly into the steering column. Make sure to install the
horn switch and the switch bracket as well as the two 9
wire clamps on the same mount capscrews.
1. HORN BUTTON 7. STEERING
3. If removed, install the wires on the key switch that 2. NUT COLUMN
were identified during removal. Install the key switch. 3. STEERING 8. BRACKET
WHEEL 9. STEERING
4. CAPSCREW CONTROL
4. If removed, install the wires on the direction switch 5. LOCK WASHER UNIT
that were identified during removal. The correct con- 6. WASHER
nections are also shown in FIGURE 4. Install the direc-
tion switch in the housing and install the large nut, dust FIGURE 6. ASSEMBLY OF THE “XM”
cover and handle. STEERING HOUSING (1 of 2)

7
 STEP 2. STEP 3.
Install the mount on the cowl. Install the latch on the bracket, Install the instrument cluster on the front
using the pin and cotter pin. Install the bracket on the mount cover. See the section INSTRUMENT
with the pivot shaft and spring. Install the plates and cap- CLUSTER, 2200 SRM 514 to make the
screws that hold the bracket to the shaft. Install the spring, necessary wiring connections for the
washer and rod for the latch. Install the knob on the latch.
S/H2.00–3.200XM (S/H40–65XM).
Install the allen screw and nut.
See the section ELECTRICAL SYSTEM,
2200 SRM 560 to make the necessary
wiring connections for the
J2.00–3.20XM (J40–65XM),
E2.00–3.20XM (E45–65XM),
J1.60–2.00XMT (J30–40XMT) and
N30XMH. Install the covers on the brack-
11 et. Connect the hydraulic lines to the
steering control unit.
12
WARNING
13 10 The hydraulic hoses MUST be con-
nected to the correct ports or the
steering system will not operate as
9 expected. This operation that is not
expected can cause damage or per-
8 sonal injury. Make sure the hoses are
identified and connected correctly.
7

6 1 2

14
3
15

1
2
3
4

1. MOUNT 6. SCREW 11. SPRING

2. PIVOT SHAFT 7. KNOB 12. COTTER PIN
3. PLATE 8. LATCH 13. PIN
4. CAPSCREW 9. ROD 14. BRACKET 1. FRONT COVER
5. SPRING 10. WASHER 15. ALLEN SCREW 2. REAR COVER

FIGURE 6. ASSEMBLY OF THE “XM” STEERING HOUSING (2 of 2)

8
5. Install the bearing on the steering shaft. The seal of the
bearing must be toward the steering wheel. Install the
snap ring in the groove on the steering shaft.
6. Put the steering shaft through the opening for the
bearing in the steering housing. Install the pin that holds
the plastic tube and flange for the horn switch. Install
the plastic tube, the plastic flange and the spring onto the
steering shaft. Push the steering shaft into the splines or
align the key way of the steering control unit. Install the
snap ring that holds the bearing in the steering housing.
pected can cause damage or personal injury. Make
sure the hoses are identified and connected correctly.
8. Connect the hydraulic hoses to the steering control
unit, the cowl, the control valve or the steering pump as
removed during removal. Make sure each hydraulic
hose is connected to the correct ports or fittings as iden-
tified during removal.
9. Connect the wire connectors at the bottom of the
steering column. Install the access cover on the steering
column.

WARNING
7. Install the steering wheel. Install the large hex nut
After making repairs, do not extend the hands or
onto the steering shaft. Install the push rod and adjuster
arms through the center of the steering wheel. If the
spool into the steering shaft. Install the base plate (not
control unit was not assembled correctly or the hoses
part of Petri steering wheel), the lock ring and the horn
not connected correctly it can rotate with a strong
cover.
force and cause serious injury. If this action occurs,
disassemble the control unit and correct the prob-
WARNING
lem.
The hydraulic hoses MUST be connected to the cor-
rect ports and fittings or the steering system will not 10. Connect the battery and operate the steering system
operate as expected. This operation that is not ex- to check for correct operation and leaks.

STEP 1. STEP 2.
Put the control unit in a vise with soft jaws. Make Remove the cover on the bottom of the steering
an identification mark on the length of the control control unit. Remove the check ball.
unit.

1
2
1
3

4
2

1. CAPSCREW
2. COVER
3. O–RING
4. SPECIAL
FITTING
1. STEERING CONTROL UNIT
2. VISE 11877 11876

FIGURE 7. DISASSEMBLY OF THE STEERING CONTROL UNIT (1 of 3)

9
 STEP 3.
Remove the stator, rotor and port plate. Put a
mark on the stator so that the same side will be
toward the body of the control unit at assembly.
Remove the O–rings. Remove the center shaft.
3
4 5
STEP 4.
Remove the screw for the check valve assembly.
Remove the parts for the check valve. For some
units the check ball is in the opposite end of the
control unit.

2 1

4
1
1. STATOR
11875
2. ROTOR 2
3. PORT PLATE 1. SCREW
4. O–RING 2. CHECK VALVE ASSEMBLY
5. CENTER SHAFT

STEP 5.
Remove the spool and sleeve assembly. Remove the 5
8
thrust bearing assembly from the spool. Push the cen-
ter pin from the sleeve. Carefully remove the spool from
the sleeve. Rotate the spool slowly during removal. Re-
move the ring from the sleeve. Remove the neutral po-
sition springs from the spool. Remove the seal from the
housing.

7
6
5

3 11877

4 1. SPOOL AND SLEEVE ASSEMBLY

2. THRUST WASHER
3. THRUST BEARING
4. CENTER PIN
5. SLEEVE
2 6. SPOOL
2 7. RING
8. NEUTRAL POSITION SPRINGS

FIGURE 7. DISASSEMBLY OF THE STEERING CONTROL UNIT (2 of 3)

10
STEP 6.
When installed, remove the snap ring, bushing,
O–ring and seal ring. Remove the oil seal from
the bushing or housing.

2
1 5
11876

1. SNAP RING
2. SEAL
4 3. BUSHING
4. O–RING
3 5. OIL SEAL

FIGURE 7. DISASSEMBLY OF THE STEERING CONTROL UNIT (3 of 3)

STEP 1. STEP 2.
Install the seal. Put the spool (3) on the work bench then put the
housing (6) onto the spool as shown. Install the
guide ring (2) with the O–ring (1) on the end of
the spool. Put the thrust washer (4), (see STEP
6) on top of the guide ring and O–ring assembly.
Use a socket or tube (5) to push on the washer
1 and install the O–ring and guide ring in the hous-
2 ing. Carefully remove the washer, tube and spool
from the housing.

6
1. HOUSING 5
4
2. SEAL

STEP 3.
Carefully assemble the spool and sleeve. Make
sure the spool rotates freely in the sleeve.

1 5
3 1
2 4 2

1. O–RING 4. WASHER
1. SPOOL 2. GUIDE RING 5. TUBE
2. SLEEVE 3. SPOOL 6. HOUSING

FIGURE 8. ASSEMBLY OF THE STEERING CONTROL UNIT (1 of 4)

11
 STEP 4.
Assemble the neutral position springs then push 4
them into position in the spool (4). Make sure the
flat springs (1) are installed to the outside of the 1
curved springs (2). Install the center pin (3). Install
the ring (5) on the sleeve (over the neutral position
springs). The ring must turn freely on the sleeve.

2
3
1

1. NEUTRAL POSITION 3. CENTER PIN

5 SPRINGS (FLAT) 2 4. SPOOL
2. NEUTRAL POSITION 5. RING
SPRINGS (CURVED)

STEP 5.
When the control unit has the type of bearing
arrangement shown here, use the following pro- 1. HOUSING
cedures: 2. SPOOL AND SLEEVE ASSEMBLY
3. O–RING
Install the thrust washers and thrust bearing on 4. THRUST WASHER
the spool. Carefully install the spool and sleeve 5. THRUST BEARING
assembly in the housing. Install the dust seal (9) 6. BUSHING
in the bushing (6). Install the bushing (6), seal 7. SNAP RING
(8) and the O–ring (3) in the housing. Use the 8. SEAL
snap ring (7) to hold the bushing in position. 9. DUST SEAL
Make sure the sleeve rotates freely in the hous-
ing.
2 6
9 7
7
1
4 6

5
2 4
5
2 3
8
4 5 3
2 1
1 4
1

9
2

8
3 11879

FIGURE 8. ASSEMBLY OF THE STEERING CONTROL UNIT (2 of 4)

12
STEP 6.
Install the thrust washers (3) and thrust bearing
(4) on the spool (5). Make sure the chamfer on
the inner thrust washer is next to the sleeve (6).
Install the spool and sleeve assembly in the
housing. Carefully rotate the spool and sleeve
assembly during installation to make sure the
spool fits correctly in the seal installed in STEP 1.
Make sure the center pin (7) in the spool and
sleeve assembly is horizontal.
3 5
4 3. PORT PLATE
6
STEP 7.
When the check valve is at the end of the housing
as shown here, install the check ball and sleeve.
Make sure the sleeve is even with or below the
surface of the housing (1). Lubricate the O–ring (2)
and install the O–ring and port plate (3). Align the
holes in the port plate with the holes in the hous-
ing.
1. HOUSING
2. O–RING
1
2

11885
1
3

2
2
1
7

4. THRUST
1. HOUSING BEARING
2. SPOOL AND 5. SPOOL
SLEEVE ASSEMBLY 6. SLEEVE
3. THRUST WASHER 7. PIN

FIGURE 8. ASSEMBLY OF THE STEERING CONTROL UNIT (3 of 4)

13
 STEP 8.
Install the center shaft (1) so that it engages with the center pin (2) in spool and sleeve assembly. Make
sure the center pin is still parallel to the flat surface of the housing. Install the rotor (3) on the center shaft.
Make sure that a valley in the rotor aligns with the slot (center pin) in the center shaft. Install the O–ring (5)
and stator (4). Make sure to align the marks made during disassembly.

2 5

1. CENTER SHAFT
2. CENTER PIN
3. ROTOR
4. STATOR
5. O–RING

4
1

1
5

1. HOUSING 5
2. O–RING 4
3. COVER
4. CAPSCREW 2
5. CHECK BALL
6. SPECIAL FITTING
3
STEP 9.
Install the O–ring (2) and the cover (3). If removed during disas-
sembly, install the spacer (not shown). Tighten the capscrews
for the cover in the sequence shown to 17 Nm (150 lbf in), then
tighten them to 30 Nm (265 lbf in). Make sure the capscrew (4)
with the pin fits in the hole for the check ball (5). 6

FIGURE 8. ASSEMBLY OF THE STEERING CONTROL UNIT (4 of 4)

14
 CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS
REMOVE AIR FROM THE SYSTEM
Air can enter the system when a hydraulic line is discon-
nected. If the operation is rough, operate the system and
rotate the steering wheel from stop to stop several times
in each direction. The air will be removed without dis-
connecting any lines. If the operation is still rough,
check if air is entering the system at a loose fitting.

TROUBLE
The steering wheels do not move
when the steering wheel is turned.
Slow or difficult steering.
Steering wheel turns the tires in the
wrong direction.
Steering function continues after the The steering control unit is as-
steering wheel stops.
The steering operation is not
smooth.
TROUBLESHOOTING
POSSIBLE CAUSE
The oil level is low or there is no oil
in the tank.
The steering control unit is dam-
aged.
No oil flow from the steering control
unit to the steering cylinder.
The sleeve and spool in the control
unit will not move.
Hydraulic hoses not connected or
have damage.
Relief valve for the steering system
is not adjusted correctly.
Low oil pressure from the hydraulic
pump.
Seal in the steering cylinder has a
leak.
Hydraulic lines are too small or
have restrictions.
Steering control unit is worn, not as- Repair or install new control unit.
sembled correctly or has damage.
The hydraulic lines are not con-
nected correctly at the steering cyl-
inder or at the steering control unit.
sembled wrong or has damage.
The oil level in the tank is low.
Air was not removed after repair to
the hydraulic system.
The steering control unit is as-
sembled wrong or has damage.
The hydraulic pump has a leak at
the inlet.
PROCEDURE OR ACTION
Fill tank to the correct level. Check
for leaks.
Repair or install new control unit.
Repair or install new components.
Check for leaks.
Install new components.
Check for leaks. Tighten connec-
tions. Install new components as
necessary.
Adjust or install new relief valve.
Check for restrictions. See Trouble-
shooting Chart, ”Hydraulic System”.
Repair cylinder. Install new seal or
new cylinder.
Remove restrictions. Install larger or
new hydraulic lines.
Connect lines correctly. Remove air
from the system.
Repair or install new control unit.
Fill tank. Check for leaks.
Remove air from the system.
Repair or install new control unit.
Fix leaks. Remove air from the sys-
tem.

15
16
 INTRODUCTION

GENERAL cuits can cause the lift truck to turn toward the drive
wheel with the good brake when the brakes are applied.
This section has a description and the service
The operator must control the direction of the lift truck
procedures for the parts of the brake system. The brake
with the steering when the brakes are applied during this
system includes the following parts: master cylinder,
condition.
brake shoes, wheel cylinders, an inching/brake pedal
and linkage, and the parking brake system. A The reservoir is equipped with an indicator for low fluid
troubleshooting section is included at the end of this level. A float in the reservoir moves up and down with
section. the fluid level. When the fluid level is low, a magnet on
the float activates a switch in the bottom of the reservoir.
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION This switch energizes a warning light in the instrument
cluster.
Service Brakes (See FIGURE 1.)
A service brake assembly is installed on the mounts at
each end of the drive axle. The parts of the service brake
assembly are shown in FIGURE 3. When the brake ped- 1
al is pushed, fluid pressure from the master cylinder
causes the pistons in the wheel cylinder to extend. The
pistons expand the brake shoes against the drums.

The clearance between the brake shoes and the brake

drum is adjusted automatically. An adjuster linkage 2
turns the adjuster wheel to adjust the clearance. When 3 4
the lift truck moves in the REVERSE direction and the
brakes are applied, the rear brake shoe and the adjuster
links move with the drum. This linkage moves the ad-
5
juster lever to rotate the adjuster wheel. The adjuster 6
wheel can turn only when there is clearance between the
lining of the brake shoe and the brake drum. The ad-
juster wheel can also be turned with a tool. A slot in the 7
back plate gives access to the adjuster wheel.

Master Cylinder
The master cylinder is designed for a dual circuit sys-
tem. The master cylinder has two separate pistons that
operate in the single bore of the master cylinder. The res-
ervoir for the fluid is pressed into the two ports on top of
the master cylinder and held in position by seals. When
the inching/brake pedal is pushed, the push rod moves
the piston assemblies. The operation of the master cylin- 1. PARKING BRAKE LEVER
2. ADJUSTMENT KNOB
der is described in FIGURE 2.
3. PARKING BRAKE CABLES
4. INCHING/BRAKE PEDAL
If a failure occurs in one of the dual circuits, the other
5. MASTER CYLINDER
circuit will apply one of the service brakes. This failure 6. BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR
will cause the brake pedal to travel further when the 7. BRAKE ASSEMBLY
brakes are applied, but the service brakes on one drive
FIGURE 1. BRAKE SYSTEM
wheel will operate. This failure of one of the brake cir-

1
 BRAKE “OFF” 7 6
When the brakes are “OFF”, the hydraulic fluid
can move freely between the dual circuit system
and the separate chambers of the fluid reservoir.

BRAKE “RELEASED” 9

When the inching/brake pedal is released,

the return springs cause the pistons to 8
retract faster than the fluid. This action 9
8
causes a vacuum between the fluid in
chambers A and C. The vacuum causes
the seals (2) to change shape. When the
seals change shape, they permit the fluid
in chambers B and D to flow through the
2 5
holes in the pistons and past the seals
3 4
into chambers A and C. The supply holes B C D
2
in the cylinder body supplies fluid as the A 1
flow moves from the one chamber to the
other chamber. The fluid returns to the
reservoir through the bypass holes when
the pistons are fully retracted. FLUID WITH NO PRESSURE
FLUID UNDER PRESSURE

1. SECONDARY SPRING
2. SEAL 6. PRIMARY FLUID CHAMBER
3. SECONDARY PISTON 7. SECONDARY FLUID CHAMBER
4. PRIMARY SPRING 8. BYPASS HOLES
5. PRIMARY PISTON 9. SUPPLY HOLES

BRAKE “APPLIED”
When the inching/brake pedal is pressed, the
primary piston moves in the cylinder bore. This
movement creates hydraulic pressure that com-
bines with the force of the primary spring.
These combined forces overcome the second-
ary spring force and move the secondary piston
in the bore with the primary piston. The first
movement of both pistons pushes the seals (2)
past the bypass holes in the chambers A and
C. This action applies pressure to the fluid in
those chambers and causes fluid to flow to the
wheel cylinders to apply the brakes. Fluid also
flows to the chambers of the two separate sys-
tems. The fluid in chambers B and D is not af-
fected by movement of the pistons. This fluid
can move freely between the piston chambers A B C D
and the chambers of the fluid reservoir, before
and during brake application.
12595

FIGURE 2. OPERATION OF MASTER CYLINDER

2
Parking Brake
The parking brake system uses the service brake shoes.
Additional linkage activates the parking brake system.
When the lever is moved to apply the parking brake, the
cables and linkage expand the brake shoes against the
drums. The design of the parking brake linkage adjusts
each cable so that the tension is the same when the lever
is moved to apply parking brake.
1. Remove the capscrews that hold the axle shaft to the
hub. Remove the axle shaft.
2. See the procedure “HOW TO PUT A LIFT TRUCK
ON BLOCKS” in the MAINTENANCE section or the
OPERATING MANUAL. Start the engine and tilt the
mast fully backward. Put blocks under the mast. Tilt the
mast forward until the wheels just touch the floor. Stop
the engine. Put blocks under the frame of the lift truck.

SERVICE BRAKES
Removal And Disassembly
DANGER
Brake linings can contain dangerous fibers. Breath-
ing the dust from these brake linings is a cancer or
lung disease hazard. Do not create dust! Do not clean
brake parts with compressed air or by brushing. Use
vacuum equipment approved for brake dust or fol-
low the cleaning procedure in this section. When the
brake drums are removed, do not create dust.
Do not sand, grind, chisel, hammer or change linings
in any way that will create dust. Any changes to
brake linings must be done in a restricted area with
special ventilation. Protective clothing and a
respirator must be used.
3. Bend the lock plate and remove the nut that holds the
axle bearing. Remove the washer and the bearing cone.
4. Put grease on the floor so that the wheel assembly will
slide easily from the axle tube. Pull the wheel assembly
from the lift truck. If the wheel assembly cannot be re-
moved easily, use a small screwdriver to push the adjust-
er actuator away from the adjuster wheel. Use a brake
adjustment tool or a screwdriver to turn the adjuster
wheel to loosen the brake shoes. Remove the hub and
drum assembly. Do not damage the grease seal when re-
moving the hub.
DANGER
When the brake shoes are removed do not create
dust in the air. See the cleaning procedure in this sec-
tion.

4 1. WHEEL CYLINDER
5
19 1 2. RETURN SPRING
3 2 3. RETURN SPRING
4. ANCHOR
7 5. ANCHOR GUIDE
15 6. BACK PLATE
17 7. BRAKE SHOE
8. RETAINER SPRING
9
ASSEMBLY (4)
8 9. PIVOT PLATE
8
10. LINK
11. ADJUSTER WHEEL
ACTUATOR
12. ADJUSTER WHEEL
13. PARKING BRAKE CABLE
14. ADJUSTER ACTUATOR
SPRING
15. BRAKE SHOE
16. LINK, PARKING BRAKE
16 17. SPRING,
10 PARKING BRAKE LINK
6 18. PARKING BRAKE LEVER
18 11 19. PIVOT PIN, RETAINER,
13 14 12 AND SPRING WASHER
FIGURE 3. BRAKE ASSEMBLY (RIGHT HAND BRAKE ASSEMBLY SHOWN)

3
 1
4 RIGHT HAND BRAKE
ASSEMBLY SHOWN 17

16

19

7
23
19
22
9
20
6

18
10 2
13
21 15 8
3
5
1. WHEEL CYLINDER 11
2. RETURN SPRING 11. ADJUSTER WHEEL 14
3. RETURN SPRING ACTUATOR
4. ANCHOR 12. ADJUSTER WHEEL 12
5. ANCHOR GUIDE 13. PARKING BRAKE CABLE 18. PARKING BRAKE LEVER.
6. BACK PLATE 14. ADJUSTER ACTUATOR 19. PIVOT PIN, RETAINER,
7. BRAKE SHOE SPRING AND SPRING WASHER
8. RETAINER SPRING 15. BRAKE SHOE 20. WASHER
ASSEMBLY (4) 16. LINK, PARKING BRAKE 21. RETAINER
9. PIVOT PLATE 17. PARKING BRAKE LINK 22. ANCHOR
10. LINK SPRING 23. SPACER

FIGURE 4. PARTS OF THE SERVICE BRAKE

5. Make a note of the arrangement of the parts. See
FIGURE 3. and FIGURE 4. Remove the return springs
(2) (3) with spring pliers.
6. Remove the retainers, springs and anchor pins that
hold the brake shoes to the back plate.
back plate. The parking brake lever has a hook that en-
gages the parking brake cable.
NOTE: The adjuster wheel for the left brake is not the
same as the adjuster wheel for the right brake. The ad-
juster wheel for the right brake has left–hand threads.

7. Disengage the link (10) from the adjuster wheel ac-
tuator (11). Remove the link (10), washer (20), and the
pivot plate (9). Remove the anchor guide (5).
8. Move the brake shoes away from each other to disen-
gage the brake shoes from the wheel cylinder. Discon-
nect the parking brake lever (18) from the parking brake
cable (13) as the brake assembly is removed from the
9. Make a note of the arrangement of parts and disas-
semble the brake assembly. Remove the parking brake
link (16) and spring (17) if they are still engaged with
brake shoes. The parking brake link and spring will of-
ten fall from the brake assembly when the brake assem-
bly is removed from the back plate. The adjuster wheel
(12) will also disengage from the brake shoes after the
brake assembly is removed.

4
 1. PUSH ROD (2)
2. DUST COVER (2)
3. PISTON (2)
4. CUP (2)
5. SPRING 1
6. WHEEL CYLINDER BODY
7. INLET PORT
8. SPECIAL FITTING
2
9. DUST COVER 3
4
4
3 5

2
8
1 9
7
6

FIGURE 5. WHEEL CYLINDER

10. Remove the spring (14) for the adjuster wheel actua-
tor (11). Remove the adjuster wheel actuator (11) from
the brake shoe. Loosen the nut and remove the anchor
(22) and spacer (23) from the brake shoe.
11. Use a screwdriver or small prybar to move apart the
ends of the retainer (19). Remove the spring washer (19)
and pivot pin (19) to remove the parking brake lever (18)
from the brake shoe (15).
12. Disconnect the brake line from the wheel cylinder
(1). Remove the capscrews that hold the wheel cylinder
to the back plate and remove the wheel cylinder.
13. See FIGURE 5. Remove the push rods, dust covers,
pistons, cups, and spring from the wheel cylinder.
NOTE: The back plate is not normally removed from
the axle housing for brake repairs. Eight special
capscrews are used to fasten the back plate to the axle
mount and the locking function of the capscrews is re-
duced if they are removed. These H2.00–3.20XM
(H45–65XM) capscrews are tightened to 225 Nm (166
lbf ft) torque. The same capscrews for the
S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) trucks are tightened to
255 Nm (188 lbf ft) torque.
Cleaning
WARNING
DO NOT use an oil solvent to clean the master cylin-
der, wheel cylinder, or the brake linings. Use a sol-
vent approved for cleaning of brake parts. Do not
permit oil or grease in the brake fluid or on the brake
linings. Oil and grease will cause damage and leaks
in the seals of a brake system. The brakes will not op-
erate correctly if oil, grease, or brake fluid is on the
brake linings.
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic, and
can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning sol-
vents, always follow the safety instructions of the sol-
vent manufacturer.
1. Do not release brake lining dust from the brake linings
into the air when the brake drum is removed.
2. Use a solvent approved for cleaning of brake parts to
wet the brake lining dust. Follow the instructions and
cautions of the manufacturer for the use of the solvent. If
a solvent spray is used, spray at a distance so that the dust
is not released into the air.
3. When the brake lining dust is wet, clean the parts. Put
any cloth or towels in a plastic bag or an airtight con-
tainer while they are still wet. Put a “DANGEROUS FI-

5
BERS” warning label on the plastic bag or airtight con-
tainer.
4. Any cleaning cloths that will be washed must be
cleaned so that fibers are not released into the air.
CAUTION
Do not permit oil or grease on the brake linings. Use a
brake cleaning fluid as necessary to clean linings that
will not be replaced.
Inspection
1. Inspect the bore of the wheel cylinder for holes or
scratches. Replace the wheel cylinder assembly if there
is any damage.
2. Inspect the return springs for wear and damage. In-
spect the back plate for wear where the brake shoes
touch the back plate. Remove any grooves or replace a
worn or damaged back plate.
3. Inspect the brake shoes for cracks or damage. If the
linings or shoes are worn or damaged, replace the brake
shoes. Maximum wear is to within 1 mm (0.025 in) of
contact with the rivets, or the metal shoe on bonded lin-
ings. Brake shoes must be replaced in complete sets. In-
spect the brake drums for cracks or damage. Replace
any damaged parts.
WARNING
The brake shoes on both wheels must be replaced if
any shoe is damaged. The brake performance on
both ends of an axle must be equal or the lift truck
can be difficult to steer when the brakes are applied.
1. ADJUSTER ACTUATOR LINK
2. RETURN SPRING
3. RETURN SPRING
3 4
4. ANCHOR
FIGURE 6. RETURN SPRINGS
6
4. Inspect the brake drum for deep grooves or other dam-
age.
NOTE: If grooves must be removed from the brake
drums, do not grind more than 1.5 mm (0.060 in) from
the internal diameter of the brake drum. The maximum
limit of the internal diameter of the brake drum is 311.7
mm (12.27 in). If the internal diameter is larger than the
limit, replace the brake drum.
5. The teeth of the adjuster wheel must not be worn. The
adjuster wheel must turn freely. Check the adjuster links
for damage.
6. Make sure the parking brake cables are in good condi-
tion.
7. Check the grease seals and the surfaces for the seals
for wear or damage.
Assembly And Installation
1. If the wheel cylinder was disassembled for repair, as-
semble the wheel cylinder. See FIGURE 5. Use only
HYSTER APPROVED parts.
2. Install the wheel cylinder on the back plate and tight-
en the two capscrews to 18 to 27 Nm (13 to 20 lbf ft)
torque. Connect the brake line to the wheel cylinder.
3. See FIGURE 4. Install the parking brake lever (18).
Use the pivot pin, spring washer, and retainer (19) to fas-
ten the parking brake lever to the brake shoe (15). Close
the ends of the retainer to fasten the pivot pin in position.
4. Install the anchor (22) and the spacer (23) in the brake
shoe (7). Install the adjuster wheel actuator (11) in the
brake shoe (7).
2
5. Fasten the adjuster actuator spring (14) to the adjuster 12. Install the anchor guide (5) on the anchor (4). Install
wheel actuator (11) and the brake shoe (15). the pivot plate (9) on its anchor (22).

6. Put an anti–seize compound on the threads of the ad-
juster wheel. Turn the adjuster wheel into the adjuster
nut so that the adjuster assembly is in its shortest posi-
tion. This action permits the brake drum to be easily in-
stalled over the brake shoes.
7. Install the adjuster wheel (12) between the two brake
shoes. Make sure the adjuster wheel will be toward the
rear of the lift truck. Move the brake shoes apart so that
the adjuster wheel is held in position and the adjuster ac-
tuator spring is in tension.
WARNING
The threads of the adjuster wheel are not the same
for each side. If the adjuster assemblies are installed
on the wrong side, the brake shoe clearance will in-
crease each time the brakes are applied. The ad-
juster wheel for the right brake has left–hand
threads. The adjuster wheel for the left brake has
right–hand threads.
8. Lubricate the back plate with a small amount of
grease where the brake shoes touch. Install the brake
shoes on the anchor (4) and engage the push rods of the
wheel cylinder. Engage the the parking brake lever (18)
in the slot in the parking brake cable as the brake shoes
are installed on the back plate.
13. Fasten the link (10) to the adjuster wheel actuator
(11) and put the cable around the pivot plate (9). Raise
the adjuster wheel actuator (11) against the spring ten-
sion and connect the link (10) to the anchor (4).
14. Use the correct tools to install the return springs. In-
stall the return spring (3). Install the washer (20) and the
return spring (2). The shape of the return springs permits
them to be installed correctly in only one position. The
arrangement of the return springs on the anchors is
shown in FIGURE 6.
15. Make sure the bottom edge of the adjuster wheel ac-
tuator is just above the center of the teeth of the adjuster
wheel. Check for correct installation if the alignment is
not correct.
NOTE: H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM)
SHOWN. S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM)
HUB IS SIMILAR. SEALS AND BEAR-
ING LOCATIONS ARE THE SAME.
3 2
1

9. Put an anchor pin that holds the brake shoes through

the back plate. Put a spring seat, spring and retainer (8)
on the anchor pin. Push the retainer on to the anchor pin
and rotate the retainer 90 degrees. Make sure the retainer
is in the correct position. Install another retainer spring
assembly.

10. Install the link, parking brake (16) and the spring
(17) between the parking brake lever (18) and the brake
shoe (7).

1. OUTER SEAL
11. Install the other spring retainers (8) that hold the 2. INNER SEAL 3. BRAKE DRUM
brake shoes. Make sure the parking brake link (16) and
the spring (17) are correctly engaged after the spring re- FIGURE 7. LOCATION OF THE GREASE SEALS
tainers are installed.

7

9518
FIGURE 8. INSTALLATION OF THE INNER
GREASE SEAL
16. Clean the bearings and lubricate them with wheel
bearing grease. Install the bearings and seals in the brake
drum. Install the assembly on the axle housing. See
FIGURE 7. and FIGURE 8.
NOTE: To prevent damage to the inner oil seal when in-
stalling the hub, the hub and drum assembly can be tem-
porarily fastened to the wheel. Align the height of the
axle housing with hub bearings. Put grease under the
wheel and slide the wheel toward the axle housing. In-
stall the outer bearing and nut.
17. Adjust the hub bearings by tightening the nut to 205
Nm (150 lbf ft) torque while rotating the hub. Loosen the
nut until the hub turns freely. The torque must be less
than 27 Nm (20 lbf ft) torque. Tighten the nut to 34 Nm
(25 lbf ft) torque or until the first alignment position af-
ter 34 Nm (25 lbf ft) torque. Bend the lock plate over the
nut.
18. Adjust the clearance of the brake shoes. Put a brake
adjustment tool or a screwdriver through the slot in the
back plate. Use the tool to rotate the adjuster wheel. The
actuator for the adjuster wheel will only permit rotation
in one direction. Turn the adjuster wheel until the brake
shoes have expanded against the brake drum and the hub
will not turn. Use a small screwdriver to lift the actuator
away from the adjuster wheel and turn the adjuster
wheel approximately 15 teeth in the opposite direction.
The brakes will adjust to the correct clearance when they
are applied while the lift truck is traveling in the RE-
VERSE direction.
NOTE: If the brake shoes were not replaced, loosen the
adjuster wheel approximately 15 teeth.
8
CAUTION
If there is too much clearance, the automatic adjust-
ers will not operate. If the clearance is too small, the
automatic adjuster cannot turn the adjuster wheel to
increase the clearance and the adjuster wheel will
not turn until the brake shoes wear. If the adjuster
wheel does not move for a long operating period, the
adjuster link can wear a spot on the adjuster wheel so
that it will not turn correctly.
19. Put liquid sealant on the flange of the axle shaft. In-
stall the axle shaft and capscrews. Tighten the
capscrews to 98 Nm (72 lbf ft) torque on the
H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM) trucks and 90 Nm (66 lbf
ft) torque on the S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) trucks.
Adjustments
1. Remove the air from the brake hydraulic system. See
the procedure “Remove The Air From The Brake Sys-
tem”, under CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS.
2. Install the wheel on the hub. Tighten the wheel nuts to
610 to 650 Nm (450 to 477 lbf ft) torque on the
H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM) trucks and 237 to 305
Nm (175 to 225 lbf ft) torque on the S2.00–3.20XM
(S40–65XM) trucks.
3. Start the engine and tilt the mast backward to remove
the blocks. Push on the brake pedal. The pedal must not
touch the floor plate. Move the lift truck in REVERSE
and push on the brake pedal to permit adjusting mecha-
nism to operate. Repeat this operation several times.
4. The service brakes must be adjusted before the park-
ing brake can be adjusted. See FIGURE 9. and the fol-
lowing paragraphs in this section for the correct adjust-
ment of the parking brake.
PARKING BRAKE
Removal And Disassembly
(See FIGURE 9.)
If the lever assembly for the parking brake must be re-
moved from the cowl, use the following procedure (see
FIGURE 9.):
a. Use blocks next to the wheels to make sure the lift
truck can not move. Release the parking brake le-
ver.
b. Remove the four capscrews that fasten the brack-
et for the parking brake to the cowl. Remove the
bracket and brake lever assembly.
 c. Loosen the jam nuts that fasten the threaded ends
of the brake cables to the brake lever assembly.
d. Turn the adjuster knob counterclockwise until the
brake cables are loosened. Disconnect the cables
from the link.
e. The service brake assembly must be removed be-
fore the parking brake cable can be removed from
the back plate of the service brake. A snap ring
holds the sheath of the parking brake cable in the
back plate of the service brake. Remove the snap
ring and remove the parking brake cable from the
back plate.
Assembly And Installation
(See FIGURE 9.)
The parking brake cables must be installed in the back
plate before the service brake is installed. A snap ring
holds the sheath of the parking brake cable in the back
plate of the service brake. Install the parking brake cable
in the back plate and install the snap ring that holds the
sheath of the parking brake cable in the back plate.
If the lever assembly for the parking brake was removed
from the cowl, use the following procedure for installa-
tion:
a. Make sure the parking brake lever is in the re-
leased position. Turn the adjustment knob (2) un-
til the link (9) is adjusted to the bottom of the ad-
justment slot (8).
b. Adjust the jam nuts (10) on the ends of the cable
assemblies (3) so that the threads of the cable
sheaths extend 6 mm (0.25 in) above their sup-
port plate in the lever assembly.
c. Install the round ends of the parking brake cables
in their slots in the link (9). Tighten the upper jam
nuts to hold the sheaths of the parking brake
cables in their support.
d. Use the four capscrews, washers and nuts and fas-
ten the bracket to the inside of the cowl.

1 1
7

2
2 3 4

5
10 8

3 9
5 6 mm (0.25 in) 6

1. PARKING BRAKE LEVER 6. BRAKE ASSEMBLY

2. ADJUSTMENT KNOB 7. SWITCH
3. PARKING BRAKE CABLES 8. ADJUSTMENT SLOT
4. INCHING/BRAKE PEDAL 9. EQUALIZED LINK
5. MASTER CYLINDER 10. NUTS
FIGURE 9. LEVER ADJUSTMENT OF PARKING BRAKE

9
Adjust The Parking Brake
(See FIGURE 9.)
Make sure that the service brakes are adjusted and the
operation of the automatic adjuster mechanism is cor-
rect before the parking brake is adjusted.
1. Turn the adjustment knob (2) to raise the link (9) and
tighten the parking brake cables. Turn the adjustment
knob until the parking brakes are fully applied when the
lever (1) is used to apply the parking brake.
2. Test the operation of the parking brake. The lift truck
with a capacity load must not move when the parking
brake is applied on a 15% grade, [a slope that increases
1.5 metres in 10 metres (1.5 ft in 10 ft)].
3. Check the operation of the switches on the parking
brake as described in CHECKS AND ADJUST-
MENTS.
MASTER CYLINDER
Removal (See FIGURE 10.)
3. Remove the cotter pin, pin and washer from the push
rod end that is attached to the brake linkage lever arm.
4. Remove the capscrews, washers and nuts that hold the
master cylinder to the bracket assembly and remove the
master cylinder from the lift truck.
Cleaning And Inspection
CAUTION
DO NOT use an oil solvent to clean the master cylin-
der, wheel cylinder, or the brake linings. Use a sol-
vent approved for cleaning of brake parts. Do not
permit oil or grease in the brake fluid or on the lin-
ings.
Inspect the bore of the master cylinder for holes or
scratches. Replace the master cylinder assembly if there
is damage.
Repair
See the repair procedures for the master cylinder in
FIGURE 11.

1. Remove the floor plates from the lift truck for access
to the master cylinder.
2. Loosen and remove the two brake hydraulic lines
from the master cylinder. Disconnect the wire at the
switch on the reservoir.
Installation (See FIGURE 10.)
Use the reverse order of the Removal procedure to in-
stall the master cylinder. Check the adjustment of the
brake pedal as described in CHECKS AND ADJUST-
MENTS.

1. CAP 4. RETURN SPRING 9. SEAL

2. RESERVOIR 5. BODY 10. SPRING
3. SEAL 6. PIN 11. PRIMARY PISTON
19 7. SEAL 12. WASHER
1
8. SECONDARY 13. RETAINER RING
PISTON 14. DUST COVER
18 15. ROD
2 20 16. LOCK NUT
17. CLEVIS
18. PRIMARY FLUID CHAMBER
21 13 19. SECONDARY FLUID
3 CHAMBER
4 20. FLOAT
21. SWITCH (FLUID LEVEL)

12595

7 7 15 16
5 7 6 17
8 10 11 9 12
14
FIGURE 10. MASTER CYLINDER

10
STEP 1.
Remove the fluid reservoir. Apply force in the di-
rection of the arrow and pull the reservoir from the
master cylinder. Install the reservoir by pushing
and turning the reservoir in the opposite direction.
Make sure brake fluid does not leak from the res-
ervoir seals. If there is any leakage, replace the
seals.
STEP 3.
Push the primary piston into the bore as shown in
the illustration. Remove the pin at the the secon-
dary piston through the port for the secondary res-
ervoir. Use the same method to install the pin dur-
ing assembly.
STEP 5.
Remove the snap ring and the primary piston assembly.
WARNING
Keep control of the pistons as they are removed
so that the return springs do not suddenly release
the pistons from the bore with enough force to
cause an injury.
FIGURE 11. MASTER CYLINDER, REPAIR (1 of 2)
STEP 2.
Be careful to not scratch the surfaces. Use a tool
(screwdriver with a flat tip) that has a smooth
and rounded end to remove the reservoir seals.
Always install new seals. Put new seals in clean
brake fluid, then install the seals in the body of
the master cylinder.
STEP 4.
Remove the clevis and nut from the push rod.
Remove the dust cover. Be sure to put the lip of
the dust cover into the recess in the bore of the
cylinder during assembly.
CAUTION
When the piston is removed or installed, make
sure the cylinder bore or piston is not
scratched or damaged.
11
 STEP 6.
Hit the cylinder lightly on a soft or wooden surface
and remove the secondary piston assembly. Lubri-
cate the cylinder bore with clean brake fluid to help
removal.
CAUTION
During disassembly and assembly of the pri-
mary and secondary pistons assembly, make
sure not to scratch or damage the cylinder
bore when the spring is removed.
STEP 7.
During installation of the secondary piston, insert
the piston assembly into the cylinder until the
seal is at the center of the bore opening. Be
careful to not cause a restriction of the seal dur-
ing installation. To make sure the seal enters the
bore correctly, carefully rotate and tilt the piston
until the seal is installed in the bore. Slowly push
the piston assembly into the bore in one continu-
ous motion after the seal fully enters the bore.

STEP 8.
Remove the seal from the piston with a smooth
and rounded tool.
NOTE: Install a new seal when the master cylin-
der is disassembled for repair.

FIGURE 11. MASTER CYLINDER, REPAIR (2 of 2)

CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS

ADJUST THE SERVICE BRAKES
The following procedure is for newly installed brake
shoes. If the lift truck has been operated for more than 25
hours and has correct pedal height, the brakes normally
will not need adjustment.
1. See the procedure “HOW TO PUT A LIFT TRUCK
ON BLOCKS” in the MAINTENANCE section or the
OPERATING MANUAL. Put the lift truck on blocks
so that the drive wheels can be removed. Remove the
drive wheels.
2. Use an adjuster tool to rotate the adjuster wheel so that
the teeth of the wheel move downward. This adjustment
expands the brake shoes. Adjust the brake shoes so that
the brake drum will not rotate.
3. Push the automatic adjuster lever away from the ad-
juster wheel with a small screwdriver. Use the adjuster
tool to loosen the adjuster wheel approximately 15 teeth
(new brake shoes).
NOTE: If the brake shoes were not replaced, loosen the
adjuster wheel approximately 15 teeth.

12
4. Install the drive wheels. Remove the lift truck from
the blocks. Operate the lift truck in the FORWARD and
REVERSE directions. Stop the lift truck 10 times in
each direction. This procedure causes the brake shoes to
wear a small amount and fit the brake drum better.
REMOVE THE AIR FROM THE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Adjust the service brakes before the air is removed from
the brake system.
1. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid.
2. Put one end of a rubber hose on the special fitting of
the wheel cylinder. Put the other end of the hose into a
clear container of brake fluid.
3. Loosen the special fitting at the wheel cylinder one
turn so that the air can be removed from the brake sys-
tem. Slowly push the brake pedal and hold it at the end of
its stroke. Close the special fitting.
4. Repeat the procedure in Steps 1 through 3 until there
are no air bubbles in the container.
5. Check the level of the brake fluid in the reservoir for
the master cylinder during the procedure. Make sure to
keep the brake fluid at the correct level.
6. Repeat the procedure for the other wheel cylinder. If
there is still air in the system, the air must be removed
from the master cylinder. Push on the brake pedal with a
steady stroke. Release the pedal slowly. Repeat this pro-
cedure until no air bubbles enter the reservoir.
TEST THE “PARKING BRAKE NOT
APPLIED” SWITCH
The “Parking Brake Not Applied” switch is located in
the operator seat. This switch actuates an audible buzzer
on the instrument cluster. When the operator leaves the
seat for more than two seconds without applying the
parking brake, the buzzer will be on continuously for 10
seconds. The buzzer operates whether the key switch is
ON or OFF.
TEST THE PARKING BRAKE SWITCH
(MONOTROL PEDAL ONLY)
When the parking brake assembly and cables have been
adjusted, the parking brake switch must be tested for
correct operation.
WARNING
If the brake switch is not adjusted correctly, the en-
gine can be started with the parking brake released.
The purpose of this switch is to prevent the starter
motor from being energized when the parking brake
is not applied. The brake switch also deenergizes the
solenoids to put the powershift transmission in NEU-
TRAL.
1. Put the lift truck on blocks so that the drive wheels do
not touch the ground or any other object. Put blocks at
either side of the steering tires to prevent movement of
the lift truck.
2. Release the parking brake. The two–circuit micro-
switch will close the electric circuit for the Monotrol
control (energize the solenoids for the powershift trans-
mission) and deenergize the starter circuit.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the START position. If the
parking brake switch operates correctly, the starter will
not energize. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF posi-
tion.
4. Apply the parking brake with the parking brake lever.
The two–circuit microswitch will open the Monotrol
circuit (deenergize the solenoids for the powershift
transmission) and permit the starter circuit to be ener-
gized with the ignition switch.
5. Turn the ignition switch to the START position. The
starter will operate if the parking brake switch operates
correctly. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
6. Check the wires for the parking brake switch if the
conditions from the results of Steps 2 through 5 are not
correct.
7. Apply the parking brake and start the engine. Push the
parking brake lever toward the released position, but do
not push the release button. The parking brake will stay
in the ON position and locked. The transmission must
be in NEUTRAL any time the parking brake lever is
applied. If the results of the test are not correct, check for
wear and damage. Make repairs as necessary and repeat
Steps 1 through 7.
ADJUST THE INCHING/BRAKE PEDAL
(See FIGURE 12.)
The following adjustment procedure gives a small
amount of transmission “inching” as the brakes are ap-
13
plied (known as inching/brake “overlap”). This overlap
makes the “inching” function smooth on slight grades.
As the inching/brake pedal is depressed, inching/brake
overlap occurs. The brakes start to apply and the trans-
mission clutch packs begin to disengage.
1. Check and adjust the inching/brake pedal if the con-
trol valve was removed for repairs.
2. If the lift truck has been operated for more than 25
hours since the brake shoes were installed, and the op-
eration of the brakes is normal, go to Step 5.
3. If the lift truck has new brake shoes, adjust the brake
shoes as described in Step 4.
4. Do the following procedure to adjust the brake shoes:
a. Put the lift truck on blocks so that the drive
wheels can be removed. Remove the drive
wheels. Put blocks at either side of the steer tires
to prevent forward or reverse movement of the
lift truck.
b. Use an adjuster tool (or a screwdriver) to rotate
the adjuster wheel so that the teeth of the wheel
move downward. This adjustment moves the
brake shoes. Move the brake shoes so that the
brake drum will not rotate.
c. Push the automatic adjuster lever away from the
adjuster wheel with small screwdriver. Use the
adjuster tool to loosen the adjuster wheel ap-
proximately 10 teeth.
d. Install the drive wheels. Remove the lift truck
from the blocks. Operate the lift truck in the FOR-
WARD and REVERSE directions. Stop the lift
truck 10 times in each direction. This procedure
causes the brake shoes to wear a small amount
and fit the brake drums better.
5. Do the following procedure to adjust the “inching”
operation:
a. Remove the floor plate. Check that the inching
link (9) is connected at the upper hole in the ped-
al. Loosen both lock nuts (8) on the inching link
(9). Adjust the length of the link to 195 to 205 mm
(7.68 to 8.1 in). Make sure the threads of the link
are engaged equally with the ball joint (7) and the
clevis (10). Do not tighten lock nuts (8) at this
time.
14
b. Adjust the height of the inching/brake pedal (1) to
82 mm (3.23 in). Use the capscrew (2) to change
the pedal height. Tighten the lock nut (3) when
complete. Be sure to measure the pedal height
from the top of the module plate (15) to the bot-
tom edge of the pedal pad.
c. Loosen the lock nut (5) on the push rod (6) for the
master cylinder. Rotate the push rod (6) clock-
wise until the pin (4) in the rod end just touches
the hole in the pedal. Rotate the push rod (6) 1/8
turn counterclockwise to give clearance for the
pin (4). Tighten the lock nut (3). This clearance
lets the brake fully return when the pedal is re-
leased.
c. Put the lift truck on blocks so that the drive
wheels do not touch the ground or any other ob-
ject. Put blocks at either side of the steer tires to
prevent forward or reverse movement of the lift
truck. Apply the parking brake.
d. Install a gauge that can measure 2000 kPa (300
psi) at test port for Forward clutch pressure (13).
e. Start the engine. Move the transmission control
lever or the Monotrol pedal to the FORWARD
position. Release the parking brake.
f. Adjust the inching link (9) until the pressure of
the forward clutch is 725 to 860 kPa (105 to 125
psi) at an engine speed of approximately 2000
rpm. The transmission oil must be at a tempera-
ture of 50 to 80°C (120 to 180°F).
g. Turn the inching link (9) clockwise (viewed from
the rear of the truck) until the clutch pressure at
the check port (13) decreases to 620 kPa (90 psi)
at 2000 rpm of engine speed. Now, rotate the link
(9) counterclockwise 4 turns. Tighten the two
lock nuts for the link. CHECK THE PRESSURE
OF THE FORWARD CLUTCH AGAIN. The
correct pressure is 725 to 860 kPa (105 to 125
psi). Turn the ignition switch to OFF to stop the
engine.
NOTE: Decrease the inching/brake overlap if too
much force is required on the inching/brake pedal to
keep the lift truck from moving (at high engine speed)
while on level ground.
 15 1

82 mm (3.23 in)

2 3
14
1. INCHING/BRAKE PEDAL
2. CAPSCREW
3. LOCK NUT
4. PIN
5. LOCK NUT
6. PUSH ROD
7. BALL JOINT
8. LOCK NUT
9. INCHING LINK
10. CLEVIS 4
11. MASTER CYLINDER 5
12. INCHING SPOOL 8 7
13. CHECK PORT FOR 9
6
FORWARD CLUTCH 10 8
14. CONNECTOR FOR FLUID
LEVEL SWITCH 11
15. MODULE PLATE

195 to 205 mm
(7.68 to 8.1 in)

13
NOTE: BRAKE TUBE IS
HOSE ON LATER UNITS.

2
3

12
9

FIGURE 12. INCHING/BRAKE PEDAL ADJUSTMENT

15
To decrease the overlap, loosen the two lock nuts (8) on
the inching link (9). Turn the link (9) clockwise (as
viewed from the rear of the lift truck) as much as 1 1/2
turns. Tighten the lock nuts when adjustment is com-
plete.
Increase the inching/brake overlap to reduce any
movement when the transmission disengages and the
brakes are applied.
To increase the overlap, loosen the lock nuts (8) on the
inching link (9). Turn the link (9) counterclockwise (as
viewed from the rear of the truck) as much as 1 1/2 turns.
Tighten the lock nuts (8) when adjustment is complete.
ADJUSTMENT OF THE NEUTRAL START
SWITCH, MONOTROL PEDAL
H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM)
(See FIGURE 13.)
NOTE: Before the neutral start switch is adjusted, make
sure the adjustments for the clearance of the brake shoes
and the inching/brake pedal overlap are correct.
1. Put the lift truck on blocks so that the drive wheels do
not touch the ground or any other object. Put blocks at
either side of the steer tires to prevent forward or reverse
movement of the lift truck.
2. Apply the parking brake.
3. Install a gauge that can measure 2000 kPa (300 psi) at
test port for the Forward clutch (1).
4. Start the engine. Push on the left side of the Monotrol
pedal to put the transmission in FORWARD. Release the
parking brake.
5. Loosen both capscrews (2) that fasten the bracket (3)
for the neutral start switch (5) to the transmission con-
trol valve. Do not loosen the two small screws that hold
the switch to the bracket (3).
6. Push on the brake pedal until the gauge indicates 0 to
48 kPa (0 to 7 psi) of pressure for the forward clutch.
7. Hold the brake pedal to maintain the pressure in Step
6. Move the switch bracket (3) so that the roller of the
switch (6) touches the leading edge of the outside diam-
eter of the neutral start disc (4). See FIGURE 13.
NOTE: This adjustment permits the inching spool to
move an additional 2 to 4 mm (0.08 to 0.16 in) inside the
16
bore of the transmission control valve before the switch
is actuated.
8. Adjust the switch bracket (3) [13 to 15 mm (0.50 to
0.60 in)] so that the switch roller moves enough to actu-
ate the switch.
NOTE: The first movement of the switch, also called
“free movement”, is 2 to 4 mm (0.08 to 0.16 in). The
switch must move this distance before it will actuate.
9. Tighten the capscrews (2) for the switch bracket to 19
Nm (14 lbf ft) torque.
ADJUSTMENT OF THE NEUTRAL START
SWITCH, MONOTROL PEDAL
S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM)
(See FIGURE 14.)
NOTE: Before the neutral start switch is adjusted, make
sure the adjustments for the clearance of the brake shoes
and the inching/brake pedal overlap are correct.
1. Disconnect the wire harness from the neutral start
switch. Connect an ohmmeter or other continuity check-
er to the switch contacts.
2. Loosen the nuts that fasten the switch to the bracket.
Loosen the capscrews that fasten the bracket to the con-
trol valve. The switch and the bracket must move freely.
3. Move the inching spool of the control valve to the ful-
ly extended position.
4. Adjust the switch bracket so that the roller of the
switch is on the forward corner of the disk of the inching
spool. See FIGURE 14. Tighten the capscrews that fas-
ten the bracket without moving the bracket. Tighten the
capscrews to 19 Nm (14 lbf ft) torque.
5. Slowly rotate the neutral start switch down until the
meter indicates that the switch contacts close. Hold the
switch in this position and tighten the nuts so that the
switch cannot move. Connect the wire harness connec-
tors to the switch contacts.
TEST THE NEUTRAL START SWITCH
(MONOTROL PEDAL)
After the adjustment of the neutral start switch is com-
plete, do the following tests to check for the correct op-
eration of the neutral start switch.
 1. TEST PORT FOR 1
FORWARD CLUTCH
2. CAPSCREWS
3. SWITCH BRACKET
4. NEUTRAL START DISK
5. NEUTRAL START SWITCH
6. SWITCH ROLLER 5

4
2 to 4 mm
(0.08 to 0.16 in)
6

13 to 15 mm
(0.50 to 0.60 in) 3 2

FIGURE 13. H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM) ADJUSTMENT, NEUTRAL START SWITCH

(MONOTROL ONLY)

1. SWITCH BRACKET
2. BRACKET CAPSCREWS
3. NEUTRAL START SWITCH
4. SWITCH ROLLER
5. NEUTRAL START DISK 1

2
3

1
4

5 2
1351629 R5

FIGURE 14. S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) ADJUSTMENT, NEUTRAL START SWITCH

(MONOTROL ONLY)

Test 1 Test 2
1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position .

2. Release the parking brake. Apply a force of 111 to 133 2. Release the parking brake. Do NOT apply force to the
Newtons (25 to 35 lbf) to the inching/brake pedal. inching/brake pedal.

3. Turn the ignition switch to the START position and 3. Turn the ignition switch to the START position. The
start the engine. The drive wheels must not rotate until starter will not energize if the operation of the neutral
the force on the brake pedal is reduced. start switch is correct. The engine must not start.

17

ITEM
Back Plate to Axle Mount Capscrews
Wheel Cylinder Capscrews
Axle Shaft Capscrews
Wheel Nuts
PROBLEM
The brakes do not stop the lift
truck correctly.
10. Water or oil is on the brake linings. 10. Clean linings or install new brake
One brake does not release.
The brakes do not operate
equally.
18
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATION
H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM)
225 Nm (166 lbf ft)
18 to 27 Nm ( 13 to 20 lbf ft)
98 Nm (75 lbf ft)
610 to 680 Nm (450 to 500 lbf ft)
TROUBLESHOOTING
POSSIBLE CAUSE
1. Air is in the brake system.
2. The mount for the master cylinder
is loose.
3. The brake shoes are worn or dam-
aged.
4. The linings are too hard.
5. A brake drum is cracked.
6. A back plate is damaged.
7. A wheel cylinder is leaking or does
not operate correctly.
8. The brake linings do not fit the
brake drums.
9. The master cylinder is damaged.
1. A brake shoe is damaged.
2. A return spring is wrong.
3. The brake lines have a restriction.
4. A parking brake cable is damaged
or needs adjustment.
5. The wheel cylinder is damaged.
6. The back plate is worn or dam-
aged.
1. Oil or brake fluid is on the linings.
2. The lining are worn or hard.
3. A wheel cylinder is leaking.
4. The brake shoes are not correctly
installed.
5. The back plate or brake shoes are
damaged.
6. The brake drum is not round.
7. The shoes are adjusted too tight.
S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM)
255 Nm (188 lbf ft)
18 to 27 Nm ( 13 to 20 lbf ft)
90 Nm (66 lbf ft)
237 to 305 Nm ( 175 to 225 lbf ft)
PROCEDURE OR ACTION
1. Remove air from brake system.
2. Tighten master cylinder.
3. Install new brake shoes.
4. Install new brake shoes.
5. Install new brake drum.
6. Install new brake shoes.
7. Repair or install a new wheel cylin-
der.
8. Install new brake shoes.
9. Repair or install a new master cyl-
inder.
shoes.
1. Install new brake shoes.
2. Install a new spring.
3. Install new brake lines.
4. Adjust or install new brake
cable(s).
5. Repair or install a new wheel cylin-
der.
6. Install a new back plate.
1. Clean linings or install new brake
shoes.
2. Install new brake shoes.
3. Repair or install a new wheel cylin-
der.
4. Install brake shoes.
5. Install new parts.
6. Repair or install a new brake
drum.
7. Adjust brake shoes correctly.

PROBLEM
Both brakes do not release.
The inching/brake pedal trav-
els too far.
The inching/brake pedal trav-
els too far.
The brakes make too much
noise.
The parking brake will not
hold the lift truck.
The parking brake will not re-
lease.
Too much movement be-
tween the brake and inching
functions.
Too much power is needed to
keep the lift truck moving at
high engine speeds while on
level ground.
TROUBLESHOOTING
POSSIBLE CAUSE
1. The parking brake is not released.
2. The parking brake cables need
adjustment.
3. There is not enough clearance for
the push rod.
4. The master cylinder is damaged.
5. The brake shoes are adjusted too
tight.
1. Air in the brake system.
2. The brake shoes are not adjusted
correctly.
3. The brake linings are worn.
4. There is too much clearance at
the end of the push rod.
1. One of the dual brake circuits is
not operating.
2. The master cylinder is damaged.
3. The brake system has a leak.
1. Oil, water or brake fluid is on the
linings.
2. The brake linings or brake shoes
are worn or damaged.
3. The brake drum is damaged.
1. Oil, water or brake fluid is on the
linings.
2. The parking brake cables need
adjustment.
3. The parking brake cable is dam-
aged.
1. The parking brake lever is ad-
justed too tight.
2. The parking brake cables are
damaged.
1. Not enough overlap. Increase the
inching/brake overlap to reduce
movement.
1. Too much overlap. Reduce the in-
ching/brake overlap to decrease
the pedal force required for the
“inching” function.
PROCEDURE OR ACTION
1. Adjust parking brake.
2. Adjust parking brake.
3. Adjust brake linkage.
4. Repair or install a new master cyl-
inder.
5. Adjust brake shoes.
1. Remove air from brake system.
2. Adjust brake shoes.
3. Install new brake shoes.
4. Adjust brake linkage.
1. Check and repair hydraulic circuit.
2. Repair or install a new master cyl-
inder.
3. Check and repair hydraulic circuit.
1. Clean linings or install new brake
shoes.
2. Install new brake shoes.
3. Install a new brake drum.
1. Clean linings or install new brake
shoes.
2. Adjust parking brake.
3. Install new cable(s).
1. Adjust parking brake.
2. Install new cable(s).
1. Check and adjust inching/brake
pedal linkage.
1. Check and adjust inching/brake
pedal linkage.
19
 INTRODUCTION

GENERAL AND ADJUSTMENTS and TROUBLESHOOTING

for the gear pump assembly are at the end of this section.

This section has a description of the hydraulic system
and the gear pump assembly. Procedures for the repair
of the gear pump assembly are also in this section. Re-
pair information for the parts of the steering system are
in the sections THE STEERING AXLE, 1600 SRM
316 and THE STEERING CONTROL UNIT, 1600
SRM 512. Information on the control valve is in the sec-
tion MAIN CONTROL VALVE, 2000 SRM 516. In-
formation for pump drive assembly is in THE TRANS-
MISSION– REPAIRS, 1300 SRM 501. The CHECKS
DESCRIPTION
Hydraulic System (See FIGURE 1.)
The hydraulic system has the following parts: hydraulic
tank, gear pump assembly, steering control unit, main
control valve, lift cylinders, tilt cylinders, steering cyl-
inder, oil filter and breather. The steering system and the
lift and tilt system are separate circuits of the hydraulic
system. Both circuits use a common hydraulic tank and
gear pump. A breather at the top of the tank lets air into
the hydraulic tank.

5 4
6 2

3 1

9602

11 12

6. TILT FORWARD LINE

8 10
7. TO LIFT CYLINDERS
1. HYDRAULIC TANK 8. TILT CYLINDER
2. BREATHER 9. STEERING CONTROL UNIT
3. RETURN LINE 10. HYDRAULIC PUMP
4. MAIN CONTROL VALVE 11. FILTER
5. TILT BACKWARD LINE 12. STEERING CYLINDER

FIGURE 1. HYDRAULIC SYSTEM (1 of 2)

1
 14 13 7 6

15 5
14

12

4
12

11

3 2
10
8
16 16

1
17
18

LIFT/LOWER SPOOL 9
12777
1. HYDRAULIC PUMP 10.
2. FLOW CONTROL VALVE 11. TILT SPOOL
3. RELIEF VALVE (STEERING SYSTEM) 12. AUXILIARY FUNCTION SPOOL
4. CHECK PORT (STEERING SYSTEM) 13. RELIEF VALVE (TILT AND AUXILIARY CIRCUITS)
5. STEERING CONTROL UNIT 14. TILT CYLINDER
6. STEERING CYLINDER 15. LIFT CYLINDER
7. MAIN CONTROL VALVE 16. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (INTERNAL)
8. FILTER 17. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (EXTERNAL)
9. RELIEF VALVE (LIFT CIRCUIT) 18. CHECK PORT (LIFT AND TILT CIRCUITS)
FIGURE 1. HYDRAULIC SYSTEM (2 of 2)

Gear Pump Assembly (See FIGURE 2.)
The gear pump assembly includes the gear pump, a flow
control valve and a relief valve. The gear pump can have
either one or two sets of gears. The pump with two sets
of gears reduces hydraulic noise. The flow control valve
and a relief valve are in the end housing of the pump.
The inlet is in the side of the pump body. The pump out-
let connects directly to the end housing and the flow
control valve. The flow control valve has the outlet for
the primary flow and the outlet for the secondary flow.
The primary flow is for the steering circuit. Flow from
the relief valve goes to the pump inlet through an inter-
nal passage. Seals prevent leaks between sections to out-
side of the pump.

2
 1
DUAL GEAR SET
3 HYDRAULIC PUMP
2
7
6
4
13 6

5
13 8
7

6 14
5
5 SINGLE GEAR SET
4 HYDRAULIC PUMP
14
5
11 6

12
8 1

10 2

3
6
4
7
5 9

6 8
5

4
10 6. PRESSURE PLATE
7. DRIVEN GEAR
8. DRIVE GEAR
9. GEAR HOUSING
11 10. FLANGE END
HOUSING
1. VALVE HOUSING 11. SEAL
12 2. O–RING 12. SNAP RING
3. END HOUSING 13. ISOLATOR
4. HOUSING SEAL 14. PRESSURE
5. BACK–UP SEAL PLATE SEAL

FIGURE 2. GEAR PUMP ASSEMBLY

3
The gear pump is driven by a chain drive arrangement in Flow Control Valve (See FIGURE 3.)
the transmission. The drive sprocket for the pump drive The flow control valve makes sure the steering system
is connected by splines to the hub of the torque convert- has a constant supply of oil. The flow control valve has a
er. The drive sprocket, in turn, drives the chain, the spring, a plunger with an orifice, and two plugs with O–
pump sprocket and the gear pump. See FIGURE 5. rings. The spring keeps the plunger in the correct posi-
tion. Oil pressure can move the plunger and compress
the spring. The plugs keep the plunger and spring in the
1. PLUG bore and also keeps the oil in the correct chamber. O–
8 2. O–RING rings are used on the plugs and the plunger.
3. HOUSING,
VALVE END Relief Valve (See FIGURE 3.)
4. HOUSING,
RELIEF VALVE
The relief valve for the steering system is in a bore in the
7 5. POPPET, end housing of the gear pump. The relief valve prevents
RELIEF VALVE the oil pressure in the steering system from increasing
6. RELIEF SPRING above specifications. The relief valve has the following
parts: a relief valve housing, a poppet, a spring, an ad-
2 1
juster, a lock nut and O–rings. The position of the adjust-
er and the amount of compression of the spring deter-
6 mine the relief pressure. When the adjustment is correct,
2 the lock nut will hold the adjuster in the correct location
5 and O–ring will seal the adjuster against the relief valve
housing.
11
OPERATION
4
Hydraulic System (See FIGURE 1.)
10 The gear pump sends oil flow to the steering system and
2 the lift and tilt system. The gear pump receives oil from
the hydraulic tank through a screen at the outlet of the
9 tank. The oil from the pump flows directly to the flow
2 control valve. The flow control valve supplies a con-
stant supply of oil to the steering system. This quantity
of oil flow is controlled by the steering control unit to
operate the steering cylinder. The relief valve on the
3 gear pump assembly limits the pressure in the steering
system.
The secondary flow from the pump goes to the main
control valve. This valve controls the flow of oil to the
lift, tilt and any auxiliary functions. A relief valve in the
main control valve limits the pressure in the hydraulic
7. ADJUSTER system. Test ports permit checking the relief pressures
2
8. LOCK NUT of each system. The location of the test ports is shown in
9. REGULATOR 1 FIGURE 1. The oil returning from the main control
SPRING
10. ORIFICE valve flows through a filter in the return line to the hy-
11. REGULATOR draulic tank.
12642
PLUNGER
Gear Pump
FIGURE 3. FLOW CONTROL VALVE AND (See FIGURE 2. and FIGURE 4.)
RELIEF VALVE PARTS The two gears in the pump have their teeth engaged in
the center of the pump body. The gears have close toler-

4
ances between themselves and the pump body When the
input shaft is turned, the drive gear turns the driven gear.
The tolerances and seals make tight chambers between
the gear teeth. When the teeth of each gear move apart at
the inlet port, they make a vacuum. Oil from the tank en-
ters the inlet port and is moved by the gear chambers
around the circumference. Passages opposite the inlet
connect the gear chambers for outlet oil flow to the flow
control valve. Oil at the inlet flows through bores and
passages in the bushings to both sides of each bushing.
Oil lubricates the bushings and the gear surface of each
bushing. Other bores and passages in the bushings let
the outlet oil go to the sides of the bushings away from
the gears. The passages also let this outlet oil flow to the
side of the inlet circumference of each bushing. The
pressure on each bushing is kept equal by the passages
and the oil.
Flow Control Valve (See FIGURE 4.)
The oil at the outlet of the gear pump enters the valve
chamber near the center of the plunger. The oil flows
through the orifice in the plunger to the steering system
port. This oil also flows to the relief valve. If the oil flow
at the pump outlet is more than the primary flow for the
steering system, the plunger will move. This plunger
movement connects part of the oil flow to the lift and tilt
system port. The plunger will also move back and de-
crease or stop the flow of oil to the lift and tilt system if
the pump flow decreases. The plunger keeps moving to
make sure the steering system always has a constant
supply of oil.
Relief Valve (See FIGURE 4.)
The pressure in the steering system is sensed at the relief
valve (23). If the pressure increases to the relief valve
setting, the poppet (8) in the relief valve will move
against the spring (2). When the poppet moves off the
seat, oil flows through an internal passage (17) that di-
rects the oil flow to the pump inlet to decrease the pres-
sure. The decrease in pressure lets the spring return the
poppet back to the seat.

2 1
1. ADJUSTER
23 22 2. RELIEF SPRING
3 21 3. LOCK NUT
4. BACK–UP RING
4 5. O–RING
6. HOUSING, RELIEF VALVE
20 7. O–RING
19 8. POPPET
5 9. FLOW, RELIEF PRESSURE
6
10. O–RING
11. CHECK BALL
18
7 12. PORT TO LIFT SYSTEM
8 9 13. PRIMARY FLOW
14. PORT TO STEERING
9 17 SYSTEM
15. REGULATOR SPRING
16. ORIFICE
10 17. INTERNAL PASSAGE FOR
RELIEF PRESSURE TO
16 THE PUMP INLET
18. PORT, PUMP OUTLET/
11 15 VALVE INLET
19. SECONDARY FLOW
9 14 20. REGULATOR PLUNGER
21. PUMP HOUSING
12 13 22. FLOW CONTROL VALVE,
REGULATOR SECTION
12651
23. RELIEF VALVE

FIGURE 4. OPERATION OF THE FLOW CONTROL VALVE AND RELIEF VALVE

5
 REPAIR
GEAR PUMP ASSEMBLY
1
NOTE: Worn or damaged seals are the most common
cause of pump damage. The pump bushings, gears and
shafts also wear. They must be checked during disas-
sembly. Do not make any repairs to the parts. To prevent
3
more failures, always replace parts that are worn or 2
damaged. If several main parts need replacing, replace 3
the complete group.

Removal and Disassembly

(See FIGURE 2., FIGURE 3.
and FIGURE 5.)
1. If necessary, put a drain pan under the hydraulic tank. 4
Disconnect the return line at the bottom of the tank.
Drain the oil from the tank. The drain pan must have ca-
pacity of approximately 30 litres (8 gal).

2. Put a drain pan under the pump assembly. Put tags on 6

the hydraulic lines for correct connections during instal-
lation. Remove all hydraulic lines connected to the
pump assembly. Put caps on all the fittings and ports.

3. Hold the pump assembly to keep it from falling. Re-

move the two capscrews and the washers that fasten the
pump to the transmission housing. Remove the pump
assembly. 12770
7 5
4. Put the pump body in a vise. Do not damage the inlet
port. Put an alignment mark on the valve end housing
1 HOUSING 5. PUMP SPROCKET
and the pump body. 2. STATOR 6. TRANSMISSION
3. DRIVE PUMP
5. Remove the capscrews that hold the pump together. SPROCKET 7. HYDRAULIC
Remove the flange end housing. Remove the valve 4. CHAIN SYSTEM PUMP
housing. Do not let the seals and gears fall.   
 
    

6. Make a note of the position of the seals. Carefully re- 9. See FIGURE 3. Remove the lock nut (8) from the ad-
move the oil seals, pressure plates and gears from the juster (7). Remove the adjuster and parts of the relief
housings. Remove the snap ring and shaft seal from the valve. Remove the relief valve housing (4).
flange end housing.
Assembly and Installation
7. Check the parts for wear and damage. (See FIGURE 2., FIGURE 3.
and FIGURE 5.)
NOTE: If the lock nut is not removed from the adjuster,
1. Put oil on all parts of the pump and valves. Use the hy-
the relief valve setting will not change.
draulic oil shown in the PERIODIC MAINTE-
NANCE section. Make sure to keep the parts clean.
8. See FIGURE 3. Remove the plugs and O–rings at
each end of the flow control valve. Remove the regula- 2. See FIGURE 3. Install the bottom plug and O–ring
tor plunger and spring. for the regulator plunger (11). Install the orifice (10) in

6
the regulator plunger. Install the spring (9) and regulator
plunger (11) in the housing. Install the O–ring and plug
at the top of the housing.
3. See FIGURE 3. Install the O–rings on the relief valve
housing (4). Install the relief valve housing in the valve
end housing. Install the relief valve poppet (5) and
spring (6). Install the O–ring, adjuster (7) and lock nut
(8). Do not tighten the adjuster or lock nut until the set-
ting is adjusted as described in CHECKS AND AD-
JUSTMENTS.
4. Use new seals and install the pressure plates and
gears. Make sure to install the pressure plates as re-
moved during disassembly. See the notes made during
disassembly. Make sure all seals are complete and in the
correct positions.
5. Make sure the dowels are installed in the end that has
the drive shaft and on the side that has the inlet. Install a
new oil seal in the flange end housing. Put tape on the
drive shaft splines and carefully install the flange end
CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS
NOTE: Adjust the relief pressure for the lift and tilt sys-
tem as described in the section for the MAIN CON-
TROL VALVE, 2000 SRM 516.
CHECK AND ADJUST STEERING RELIEF
PRESSURE
(See FIGURE 1. and FIGURE 4.)
1. Connect a tachometer to the engine.
2. Connect a gate valve and pressure gauge to the test
port located at the tee fitting. The tee fitting is on the in-
let line near the steering control unit.
3. Operate the engine at 700 rpm. Operate the hydraulic
system until the oil temperature is 55 to 65°C (130 to
150°F). Turn the steering wheel to the stop and hold it in
that position.
4. Check the gauge. The correct pressure is 10.6 to 11.7
MPa (1545 to 1700 psi).
housing. Do not move the pressure plates. Make sure the
seals do not move out of the correct position.
6. Carefully install the valve end housing on the pump
body using the four capscrews and lock washers. Make
sure the pressure plates do not move and that the seals
stay in the correct position. Make sure the marks made
during disassembly are aligned. Tighten the capscrews
to 46 to 49 Nm (34 to 36 lbf ft) torque.
7. Put a liquid gasket material on the pump flange. Hold
the pump in the correct position on the engine. Install the
capscrews and washers that fasten the pump to the trans-
mission housing.
8. Connect the hydraulic lines as shown by the tags. Do
not tighten the inlet fitting. Fill the tank using the hy-
draulic oil shown in the PERIODIC MAINTE-
NANCE section. Let some of the oil run out around the
pump inlet fitting. Tighten the fittings. This procedure
will make sure the pump has oil for first operation.
9. Adjust the steering relief setting as described in
CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS.
5. If the pressure is less than the specifications, loosen
the lock nut (3) and turn the adjuster (1) for the relief
valve clockwise. See FIGURE 4. If the pressure is
higher than the specification, turn the adjuster counter-
clockwise. After the setting is correct, hold the adjuster
and tighten the lock nut.
6. Remove the pressure gauge, gate valve and tachome-
ter. Install the test port cap.
CHECK GEAR PUMP FOR CORRECT
FLOW
NOTE: Make sure the hydraulic oil is at operating tem-
perature 35 to 65°C (100 to 150°F).
1. Install a flow meter in the outlet line of the gear pump.
Follow the manufacturer’s recommended procedure for
operation.
2. Check the output of the gear pump. The correct rate
for the priority flow is 10.0 litre/min (2.64 gal/min).
7
 TROUBLESHOOTING
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE
The pump makes too much noise. The oil level is low or there is no oil in the tank.
The suction screen has a restriction.
The inlet fitting is loose.
The bearings or gears have damage.
The capscrews that hold the pump together are loose.
The pump is loose at the transmission.
The output of the pump is less than specifications. The shafts or gears have damage.
The seals or gaskets have leaks.
The fittings at the pump have leaks.
The capscrews that hold the pump together are loose.
The flow control valve is damaged.
The relief valve is not adjusted correctly.
The pump has leaks. The fittings on the pump are loose or damaged.
The capscrews that hold the pump together are loose.
The seals in the pump are damaged.
The pressure for the steering system is below speci– The relief valve is not adjusted correctly.
fications. The relief valve is damaged.
The pump is worn.
The flow for the steering system is below specifica– The flow control valve is damaged.
tions. The relief valve is not adjusted correctly.

8
 INTRODUCTION

GENERAL • tilt section

• auxiliary section(s)
This section has a description and the repair procedure
for the main control valve. The sections are held together with three through bolts.

Each function of the main control valve is made as a

DESCRIPTION
The main control valve controls the operation of the lift,
tilt, and auxiliary cylinders. The main control valve is
installed to the right of the operator’s seat. It is fastened
to a bracket on the frame of the lift truck. The main con-
trol valve has the following sections (See FIGURE 1.):
• inlet section with the primary relief valve
• outlet section with the secondary relief valve
• lift and lower section
separate section having a spool and valve body. Each
valve body casting is the same. The control spools are
different for each function. Other sections are added to
the main control valve to control optional auxiliary
functions.
Each spool has a spring that returns the spool to the neu-
tral position when the control lever is released. Each
valve section has a check valve in the valve body. The
check valve and spring is held in the valve body by the
next section.

3 6
4 8

2 5
7
9

1. INLET SECTION
2. LIFT SECTION
3. LIFT/LOWER SPOOL
4. TILT SECTION
5. TILT CONTROL SPOOL
6. TILT SPOOL
7. AUXILIARY SECTION
8. AUXILIARY SPOOL
9. OUTLET SECTION

FIGURE 1. MAIN CONTROL VALVE

1
 1
11
1. MAIN CONTROL VALVE
10 2 2. TO STEERING SYSTEM
3. AUXILIARY FUNCTION
SPOOL
4. TILT SPOOL
12 5. LIFT/LOWER SPOOL
11
6. TO HYDRAULIC TANK
3 7. RELIEF VALVE
(LIFT CIRCUIT)
8. FROM HYDRAULIC
PUMP
9. CHECK PORT
3 (LIFT AND TILT CIRCUITS
10. RELIEF VALVE
(TILT AND AUXILIARY
CIRCUITS)
11. TILT CYLINDER
4 12. LIFT CYLINDER
13. LOWERING CONTROL
VALVE (INTERNAL)
14. LOWERING CONTROL
VALVE (EXTERNAL)
5

13 13 6

7
14 9 8 12777

FIGURE 2. CONTROL VALVE SCHEMATIC

OPERATION allel passage is common to all sections of the valve, but

The main control valve is an open center, parallel circuit
valve. When open center valve spools are in the neutral
position, the hydraulic oil flows through the valve with
minimum restriction. The oil returns through the drain
passage and returns to the hydraulic tank. In a parallel
circuit valve, each spool can be operated without pre-
venting the flow of oil to another spool.
This valve has three parallel passages through the valve.
See FIGURE 2. When the spools are in the neutral posi-
tion, the oil flows through the open center passage. At
the end of the valve, the oil returns through the drain pas-
sage and returns to the hydraulic tank. A spool makes a
restriction in the open center passage when the spool is
moved from the neutral position. This restriction causes
an increase in pressure in the parallel passage. The par-
oil cannot flow freely through it. The increased pressure
in the parallel passage causes the oil to flow through a
check valve into a supply cavity in the valve body. The
spool gives a path from the supply cavity to the hydrau-
lic cylinder to do work.
The control valve can have three or four control levers.
The first lever to the right of the operator controls the
lifting and lowering of the mast. The second lever con-
trols the tilt function. The third control lever is for at-
tachments and has two methods of operation depending
on the attachment.
• Control Lever With Detent – Required For
Attachments With a Clamp Action: The lever
is spring–loaded toward the operator. The lever is
operated by moving it to the right, then forward or
backward.

2
 • Control Lever Without a Detent – inders. Cavitation occurs when the available fluid does
Attachments Without a Clamp Action: The not fill the space in a closed system. The high vacuum
lever is operated by moving forward or cause some of the fluid to change to bubbles of gas.
backward. When cavitation occurs in the tilt cylinders, the tilt for-
ward function is not smooth.
The fourth control lever has a detent and is spring–
loaded toward the operator. The lever is operated by
moving it to the right, then forward or backward.
1 1 4
Lift Section (See FIGURE 3.)
3
When the spool is moved to the Lift position, the spool
4 7
makes a restriction in the open center passage. The in-
creased pressure in the parallel passage causes oil to
flow through the check valve to the supply cavity. The
oil flows from the supply cavity through a section of the
spool to the lift cylinder.
3
When the spool is in the Lower position, the spool opens
a path from the lift cylinder to the drain cavity. The spool
is made so that the oil flow through the open center pas-
2
sage is not stopped.
6
Tilt Section
5
The basic operation of the tilt spool is the same as the
other spools in this control valve. The tilt control spool
is inside the tilt spool and adds an additional sequence to
the tilt forward function.

TILT BACKWARD (See FIGURE 4.)

When retracted past Neutral position the tilt spool
causes a restriction of the oil flow through the open cen-
ter passage. The increased pressure in the parallel pas-
sage causes the oil to flow through the check valve to the
supply cavity. The oil flows from the supply cavity
through a section of the spool to the tilt cylinders. The
12778
check valve prevents the movement of the load until the
LIFT LOWER
system pressure is great enough to control the load. Oil
from the piston end of the tilt cylinder returns through 1. LIFT/LOWER SPOOL
2. SUPPLY CAVITY
the main control valve and to the hydraulic tank.
3. TO/FROM LIFT CYLINDERS
4. DRAIN CAVITY
TILT FORWARD (See FIGURE 4.) 5. OPEN CENTER PASSAGE
6. TO LIFT CYLINDERS
The tilt control spool that is inside of the tilt spool oper- 7. TO HYDRAULIC TANK
ates during the tilt forward function. The tilt control
FIGURE 3. LIFT AND LOWER
spool prevents cavitation in the piston end of the tilt cyl-

3
The tilt control spool permits the regulation of the tilt flow from the rod end of the tilt cylinder until the pres-
speed by using the pressure from the hydraulic pump. sure is 550 kPa (80 psi). This action makes sure that a
The pressure must be 550 kPa (80 psi) on the piston ends vacuum cannot occur at the piston ends of the tilt cylin-
of the tilt cylinders. The tilt control spool prevents oil ders.

1. LIFT/LOWER SPOOL
2. DRAIN CAVITY
1 3. TO/FROM ROD END OF TILT
CYLINDERS
4. SUPPLY CAVITY

2 2
1

3 8
4
4

3
3

6
6

2
2

5. OPEN CENTER PASSAGE

6. TO/FROM PISTON END OF TILT
CYLINDERS
7. TILT CONTROL SPOOL
TILT BACKWARD TILT FORWARD 8. SPRING 12778

FIGURE 4. TILT SPOOL OPERATION

4
 B
D
A
STEP 1.
The relief valve is closed between the high
HP pressure inlet (HP) and the low pressure (LP)
drain. High pressure oil enters the passage at
C. The difference in area between diameters A
C and B holds the poppet spool D against the
A valve seat.
LP
B E

STEP 2.
The oil pressure in the high pressure inlet be-
comes greater than the spring force of the pilot
poppet E. The pilot poppet E is pushed from
HP
its seat. Oil flows around the poppet E and
through the passages to the drain.

STEP 3.
When pilot poppet E opens, the loss of oil
pressure behind poppet C causes poppet C to
move against poppet E. This movement stops
HP the flow of oil through C and causes a lower
pressure behind relief valve poppet D.
C D

LP
STEP 4.
The difference in pressure on each side of
poppet D causes poppet D to open. The high
pressure oil then has a direct path to the low
HP pressure drain.
D 12853

FIGURE 5. OPERATION OF THE RELIEF VALVE

Relief Valve (See FIGURE 5.)
The two relief valves in the control valve control the
maximum pressure within the hydraulic system. See
FIGURE 10. The primary relief valve is installed in the
inlet section of the control valve and is for the lift circuit.
The secondary relief valve is for the tilt and auxiliary
circuits and is installed in the outlet section of the con-
trol valve. Both relief valves are the same in description
and operation. When the pressure in one of the hydraulic
circuits reaches the relief valve setting, the relief valve
opens a path between the inlet and drain circuits.
The relief valve is a poppet valve that is pilot operated.
There are three poppet spools in this valve. Spools C, D
and E are used for pressure relief. This relief valve gives
almost constant relief pressure over the range of the hy-
draulic pump flow. The sequence of operation is de-
scribed in FIGURE 5.
5
 REPAIRS
MAIN CONTROL VALVE
Removal (See FIGURE 6.)
WARNING
Before making repairs to the control valve, fully low-
er all parts of the mast and tilt it fully forward. This
action will prevent the mast from lowering suddenly
when hydraulic lines are disconnected.
1. Remove the cowl cover from the right side of the en-
gine compartment. Remove the cover tray (16) from
around the control levers.
2. Remove the cotter pins (13) and link pins (12) that
connect the control levers to the spools. Remove the
bolts that hold the end plates (7) to the control valve
mount. Remove the linkage as a unit.
3. Disconnect the lines at the control valve. See
FIGURE 9. Put caps on the open lines.
4. See FIGURE 7. Remove the mount plate (2) at the top
of the control valve. Remove the side strut (6) from the
frame. Remove the bolts that hold the main control
valve to the frame bracket.

2
3
1
15
1
2
6
3

5 4 16 4
7
9

7 5
8 14
7

10 11 13
12 12 14
CONTROL LEVER
ARRANGEMENT WITH DETENT 7
8. DETENT PLATE 13
9. SPRING BRACKET
10
1. LIFT/LOWER LEVER 10. CRANK
2. TILT LEVER 11. DETENT CRANK CONTROL LEVER
3. ATTACHMENT LEVER 12. LINK PIN ARRANGEMENT WITHOUT DETENT
4. ATTACHMENT LEVER 13. COTTER PIN
5. MOUNT PLATE 14. PIVOT SHAFT
6. SPRING 15. BOOT
7. END PLATE 16. COVER TRAY

FIGURE 6. LINKAGE FOR CONTROL LEVERS

6
 MOUNTING ARRANGEMENT
FOR ISUZU 4JB1
2
3
1

4
6

6
4 MOUNTING ARRANGEMENT FOR
5
MAZDA, GM, AND ISUZU C240

1. MAIN CONTROL VALVE 4. RUBBER MOUNT

2. MOUNT PLATE 5. FRAME BRACKET
3. CONTROL VALVE BRACKET 6. SIDE STRUT

FIGURE 7. CONTROL VALVE MOUNTING

Disassembly 4. The relief valve is normally replaced if it is damaged.

NOTE: Disassemble the main control valve as neces-
sary for repairs. Most repairs to the main control valve Cleaning And Inspection
are for the replacement of O–rings and seals to stop WARNING
leaks. The passages in the tilt spool are small and can
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic and
need cleaning if the hydraulic oil becomes dirty. The
can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning sol-
section normally must be replaced if the spool or valve
vents, always follow the solvent manufacturer’s rec-
section is damaged.
ommended safety procedures.
1. Remove the end cap from the valve section. Carefully Clean all parts of the control valve with solvent.
pull the spool from the valve section. Do not remove the
spring retainers unless a spring must be replaced. 1. Check the spools and bores for wear or damage. If a
spool or bores have damage, then the control valve sec-
2. The valve sections can be separated when the three
tion must be replaced. Make sure that the spools move
through bolts are removed. The check valves are held in
freely in the bores.
the valve body by the next section.

3. Remove the tilt control spool by removing the end of 2. Check the check valves and relief valve for damage.
the tilt spool. Replace the parts as necessary.

Carefully remove the tilt control spool from the tilt 3. Check the parts of the linkage for the control valve le-
spool. vers. Replace worn parts as necessary.
7
 1. INLET SECTION
14 2. O–RING
2 3. RELIEF VALVE (LIFT)
5 10 4. PLUG
5. LIFT/LOWER SPOOL
6. SEAL
1 7 7. RETAINER
15
2 6 16 8. LIFT/LOWER SECTION
9. SPRING CUP
2 10. SPRING
11. SCREW
12. END CAP
13. CHECK VALVE
2 17
18
2 10

20
19
3
13
21
2
6
8
4
7
9
14. SPOOL END
15. TILT CONTROL SPOOL
16. TILT SPOOL 10
17. TILT SECTION
18. AUXILIARY SPOOL 9
19. AUXILIARY SECTION
20. RELIEF VALVE (TILT
AND AUXILIARY) 11
21. OUTLET SECTION
22. THROUGH BOLT
12

22

FIGURE 8. CONTROL VALVE

Assembly (See FIGURE 8.)
CAUTION
Before installing the parts into the valve body, make
sure all parts are clean. Replace all the seals and the
O–rings. Lubricate the moving parts with clean hy-
draulic oil during assembly.
1. Install new seals in the bores of the sections. Install
new O– ring seals between the sections. Install the check

8
valves and springs and assemble the sections. Tighten edges of the boot (15). Adjust the cover trays as neces-
the nuts on the 5/16 inch through bolts to 20 Nm (15 lbf sary so that they fit in the opening of the hood.
ft).
6. Add the hydraulic oil to the tank. See the section PE-
2. If the return springs were removed from the control RIODIC MAINTENANCE for the correct specifica-
spools, install the spring retainers. During assembly, use tions.
new O–rings for the parts of the tilt control spool. Do not
damage the O–rings during installation. 7. Operate the system and check for leaks and correct
operation. Adjust the relief valves as described in
3. Lubricate the spools with clean hydraulic oil. Make CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS.
sure that dirt does not get on any of the parts. Carefully
install the spools in the valve body. Install the seal re-
tainers and the covers for the return springs.
1
4. Install the relief valves. Adjust the relief settings for
the hydraulic system as described in CHECKS AND
ADJUSTMENTS. 2

Installation 3

1. See FIGURE 7. Install the control valve on the frame

bracket. Install the bracket and control valve on the
frame of the lift truck. Install the side strut to the frame.

2. Install the link pins and cotter pins in the control valve
spools.

3. See FIGURE 6. Install the linkage assembly and the

mount plate (5). Connect the mount plate to the side strut 4
and end plates (7). Install the spring (6) for the control
lever with the detent. Check the operation of the levers. 5
Make sure the levers operate as described at the front of 1. MAIN CONTROL VALVE
this section. 2. TO/FROM LIFT CYLINDERS
3. TO/FROM PISTON END OF TILT CYLINDERS
4. See FIGURE 9. Connect the hydraulic lines to the 4. TO/FROM ROD END OF TILT CYLINDERS
control valve. 5. TO/FROM ATTACHMENT CYLINDERS

5. See FIGURE 6. Install the cover tray (16) to the FIGURE 9. HYDRAULIC LINE
ARRANGEMENT
mount plate (5). Make sure the cover trays fit over the

CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS

PRESSURE RELIEF VALVES Primary Relief Valve (See FIGURE 10.)

NOTE: The control valve has two relief valves, a pri-
mary relief valve and a secondary relief valve. The pri-
mary relief valve is in the inlet section of the control
valve. The secondary relief valve is on the outlet sec-
tion.
1. Connect a 0 to 25 MPa (0 to 3500 psi) gauge to the test
port at the inlet section of the control valve..
2. Loosen the jam nut.
3. Start the engine and operate the hydraulic system to
warm the oil temperature to 55 to 65°C (130 to 150°F).
9
Run the engine at approximately 2000 rpm when mak- Turn the adjustment screw as necessary to change the
ing pressure checks. setting. The correct setting is 21.37 ± 0.5 MPa (3100 ±
75 psi). Tighten the jam nut when the adjustment is cor-
rect.
3
5. Remove the gauge when the checks are complete.
1
Secondary Relief Valve (See FIGURE 10.)
1. Connect a 0 to 20 MPa (0 to 3000 psi) gauge to the test
port at the inlet section of the control valve.
2. Loosen the jam nut on the relief valve.
3. Start the engine and operate the hydraulic system to
warm the oil temperature to 55 to 65°C (130 to 150°F).
Run the engine at approximately 2000 rpm when mak-
ing pressure checks.
2
5. Tilt the mast backward until it stops. Hold the lever
1. TEST PORT and check the reading of the gauge when the relief valve
2. PRIMARY RELIEF VALVE opens. Turn the adjustment screw as necessary to
3. SECONDARY RELIEF VALVE
change the setting. The correct setting is 15.5 ± 0.5 MPa
FIGURE 10. RELIEF VALVE LOCATIONS (2250 ± 75 psi). Tighten the jam nut when the adjust-
ment is correct.
4. Raise the mast until it stops. Hold the lever and check
the reading of the gauge when the relief valve opens. 7. Remove the gauge when the checks are complete.

TROUBLESHOOTING
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE
Slow or no movement of cyl- 1. Air is in the hydraulic system.
inders. 2. The hydraulic pump is worn or
damaged.
3. Restriction in the hydraulic lines.
4. Cylinder seals are damaged.
5. Load is greater than capacity.
6. Linkage is disconnected or dam-
aged.
7. Pressure relief valve(s) is not ad-
justed correctly or is damaged.
8. Large leaks between spool and
bore.
9. Spool is not fully extended or re-
tracted.
Oil leaks at the end of a 1. Seal for spool is damaged.
spool. 2. Spool is damaged.
3. Valve body is damaged.
PROCEDURE OR ACTION
1. Remove air from hydraulic system.
2. Repair or replace hydraulic pump.
3. Repair hydraulic lines.
4. Repair cylinders.
5. Reduce load.
6. Repair and adjust linkage for con-
trol levers.
7. Repair or adjust relief valve(s).
8. Replace valve section.
9. Adjust linkage to spool.
1. Replace seal.
2. Replace valve section.
3. Replace valve section.

Spool will not move or is diffi- 1. Linkage is disconnected or dam- 1. Repair and adjust linkage.
cult to move. aged.
2. Return spring is damaged. 2. Replace spring.
3. The spool or bore is damaged. 3. Replace valve section.

10

PROBLEM
Spool will not return to NEU-
TRAL.
Hydraulic pressure is above
specifications.
Tilt cylinders extend when the
tilt spool is in the NEUTRAL
position.
Tilt cylinders extend suddenly
when the tilt spool is moved
to BACK TILT position.
Tilt cylinders extend suddenly
when the tilt spool is moved
to FORWARD TILT position.
Lift cylinders retract when the
lift spool is in the NEUTRAL
position.
TROUBLESHOOTING
POSSIBLE CAUSE
1. Linkage is disconnected or dam-
aged.
2. Return spring is damaged.
3. Dirt between spool and the bore.
4. Spool is bent or damaged.
1. Pressure relief valve(s) is not ad-
justed correctly or is damaged.
2. Restriction in return line.
1. Cylinder seal have leaks.
2. Oil leaks between control valve
spool and bore.
3. Hydraulic lines have leaks.
1. Check valve for tilt spool is dam-
aged.
1. Tilt control spool inside the tilt
spool is damaged.
1. Check valve for the lift spool is
damaged.
2. Cylinder seals have leaks.
3. Hydraulic lines have leaks.
4. Leaks between the lift spool and
the bore.
PROCEDURE OR ACTION
1. Repair and adjust linkage.
2. Replace spring.
3. Clean valve.
4. Replace valve section.
1. Repair or adjust relief valve(s).
2. Clean or replace return line or fil-
ter.
1. Repair tilt cylinders.
2. Replace valve section.
3. Repair or tighten lines or fittings.
1. Replace check valve.
1. Replace valve section.
1. Replace check valve.
2. Repair lift cylinders.
3. Repair or tighten lines or fittings.
4. Replace valve section.
11
 INTRODUCTION
GENERAL
This section has a description and the repair procedures
for several different types of tilt cylinders. The number
and the design of the parts can be different but the opera-
tion of the tilt cylinders is the same.
DESCRIPTION
The tilt cylinders (FIGURE 2. through FIGURE 6.) are
REPAIRS
REMOVAL
WARNING
Before removing the tilt cylinder(s), tilt the mast for-
ward. Use a chain to hold the mast to the frame, and
prevent the mast from moving forward.
1. Disconnect the hydraulic lines at the tilt cylinder.
Install caps on the hydraulic lines and ports.
WARNING
Do not push the anchor pins out of the rod end with
your fingers.
Do not permit the tilt cylinders to drop and cause
damage.
2. Remove the retainers for the anchor pins. Push the an-
chor pins out of the rod end with a tool.
3. Use a lifting device to move large tilt cylinders. Re-
move the anchor pins from the frame anchors. Remove
the tilt cylinder from the frame.
DISASSEMBLY
1. Put the tilt cylinder in a vise with soft jaws. Remove
the rod end from the rod.
2. Remove the retainer from the tilt cylinder. Remove
the rod and piston from the cylinder.
3. See FIGURE 2.through FIGURE 6. Disassemble the
tilt cylinder as necessary.
used to move the mast forward and backward. To extend
the cylinder rod (tilt forward), oil enters the tilt cylinder
port behind the piston. The oil pressure pushes the cylin-
der rod out of the cylinder. Oil in front of the piston re-
turns to the hydraulic tank. To retract the cylinder rod
(tilt backward), the oil enters the port in front of the pis-
ton. The oil pressure pushes the cylinder rod into the tilt
cylinder. The oil behind the piston returns to the hydrau-
lic tank.
CLEANING
WARNING
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic and
can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning sol-
vents, always follow the solvent manufacturer’s rec-
ommended safety procedures.
Compressed air can move particles so that they
cause injury to the user or to other personnel. Make
sure that the path of the compressed air is away from
all personnel. Wear protective goggles or a face
shield to prevent injury to the eyes.
Clean all parts in solvent and dry with compressed air.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: Always use new seals and O–rings. Make sure
all parts are clean. Lubricate all parts with clean hydrau-
lic oil.
Tilt Cylinders With O–Ring or Single Lip Seals
(See FIGURE 1.)
NOTE: Always use new seals and O–rings. Make sure
all parts are clean. Lubricate all parts with clean hydrau-
lic oil.
NOTE: During 1980 and 1981, a change was made in
the tilt cylinders used in most lift trucks. The O–ring seal
between the retainer and the cylinder shell was moved
from above the threads to the area below the threads. A
back–up ring was added to increase the strength of the
O–ring. The assembly of the tilt cylinders is the same,
but caution must be used so that the O–ring seal is not
damaged by the threads.
1
 10

1
9
11

12
13
8

6
5 1. PISTON ROD 8. CYLINDER SHELL
4 2. PISTON RING 9. O–RING
3 3. O–RING 10. BACK–UP RING
4. O–RING 11. RETAINER
2 5. PISTON 12. SEAL RING
6. GUIDE RING 13. WIPER RING
7. NUT

FIGURE 1. TILT CYLINDERS WITH O–RING OR SINGLE LIP SEALS

1. Install the O–ring inside the piston bore. Install the
piston on the piston rod. Make sure the O–ring is not
damaged. Tighten the nut on the piston rod to the speci-
fications given in TABLE 2.
2. Install the O–ring, seal ring, and guide ring on the pis-
ton. The seal ring must be heated before installation. Af-
ter heating, it must be pushed into its groove using a ring
compressor. Let the seal ring cool and return to its nor-
mal shape.
3. If used, install the O–ring and the back–up ring in the
groove of the outer retainer. Install the rod seal (O–ring
toward the piston) and wiper seal in the inner retainer.
4. Install the retainer on the piston rod. Install the piston
and rod assembly and the retainer in the cylinder. If
used, install the O–ring on the retainer. Tighten the re-
tainer to specifications given in TABLE 2.
NOTE: After assembly is complete, install the rod end
on the piston rod. Tighten the capscrew on the rod end as
specified in THE MAST section for your specific lift
truck.
Tilt Cylinders for the XM and XMS Models
(See FIGURE 2. and FIGURE 3.)
NOTE: The following procedure is for these models:
S/H/E/J2.00–3.00XM (S/H/E/J40–65XM)
J1.60–2.00XMT (J30–40XM)
H/S/E1.25–1.75XM, H/S/E2.00XMS
(S/H/E25–35XM, S/H/E40XMS)
NOTE: Always use new seals and O–rings. Make sure
all parts are clean. Lubricate all parts with clean hydrau-
lic oil.
1. Install the piston seal and O–ring(s) onto the piston.
Install the piston onto the cylinder rod. Make sure the
piston seal is not damaged. Tighten the nut on the piston
rod to the value shown in TABLE 2.
2. Install a new wiper and rod seal. Install the O–ring and
back–up ring onto the retainer.
3. Install the retainer assembly onto the rod.
4. Install the piston and rod assembly into the cylinder.
Tighten the retainer to the value shown in TABLE 2.
NOTE: After assembly is complete, install the rod end
on the cylinder rod. Tighten the capscrew on the rod end
as specified in THE MAST section for your specific lift
truck.

2
 7
8 2
3
9
10 4
5

11

1. CYLINDER SHELL
2. NUT
3. PISTON
6 4. O–RING
5. SEAL RING
6. PISTON ROD
7. O–RING
8. BACK–UP RING
9. SEAL RING
1 10. RETAINER
11. WIPER RING

FIGURE 2. TILT CYLINDERS FOR THE S/H/E/J2.00–3.20XM (S/H/E/J40–65XM)

8
9
5 10 7

6
7

4 2

1. CYLINDER SHELL
2. RETAINER
3. ROD
4. WIPER RING
1 5. ROD SEAL
3 6. BACK–UP RING
7. O–RING
8. NUT
9. PISTON
10. PISTON SEAL

FIGURE 3. TILT CYLINDERS FOR THE H/S/E/J1.25–1.75XM, XMS, XMT (H/S/E25–40XM,XMS,XMT)

3
Tilt Cylinders for H700–800A and Early Model
H700–920B (See FIGURE 4.)
NOTE: Always use new seals and O–rings. Make sure
all parts are clean. Lubricate all parts with clean hydrau-
lic oil.
1. Install the thrust plate on the rod. Install the back–up
ring and O–ring on the rod. Install the piston on the rod.
Install the piston rings and seals on the piston.
2. Install the lock nut on the rod. Tighten the lock nut un-
til the thrust plate is tight against the rod. Install the pin
in the lock nut and rod if necessary, drill a hole in the rod
for the pin. Install the snap ring to hold the pin in posi-
tion.
3. Install the piston and rod assembly in the shell. Install
the seals on the retainer. Install the retainer in the shell.
4. Install the lock ring in the shell, but do not tighten it.
Install the capscrews in the lock ring. Turn the lock ring
until it is even with the end of the shell. Install the pipe
plug in the lock ring and tighten the plug to 34 to 48 Nm
(25 to 35 lbf ft). Tighten the capscrews in the lock ring to
14 to 20 Nm (10 to 15 lbf ft).
5. Install the rod end on the rod. Tighten the capscrews
on the rod end to 610 Nm (450 lbf ft).
INSTALLATION
1. Use a lifting device to move large tilt cylinders. Put
the cylinder in the lift truck. Install the anchor pin in the
frame. Install the retainer pin or cotter pin.
2. Install the anchor pin at the mast mount. Install the re-
tainer pin or cotter pin for the anchor pin. Tighten the
capscrews for the retainer pins.
3. Connect the hydraulic lines to the tilt cylinder.
4. Operate the tilt cylinders. Check for correct operation
and leakage. Adjust the tilt cylinders as described in
CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS.

13
12
11
10
9

8
7
6 1. CYLINDER SHELL
5 2. SNAP RING
4
3. LOCK NUT
3 20 4. DOWEL
2 5. PISTON RING
6. O–RING
1
7. SEAL RING
13 8. PISTON RING
9. PISTON
21 10. THRUST PLATE
11. O–RING
19 12. BACK–UP RING
18 13. PISTON ROD
17 14. O–RING
15. BACK–UP RING
16 16. RETAINER
17. SEAL RING
15 18. WIPER RING
14 19. RETAINER RING
20. PLUG
1 21. CAPSCREW

FIGURE 4. TILT CYLINDERS FOR H700–800A, EARLY MODEL H700–920B

4
 10

11
12
13
14
15
16
1
17
19 18
2
4 3
5
1. CYLINDER SHELL 10. O–RING
6 2. NUT 11. BACK–UP RING
3. PISTON HEAD 12. RETAINER
7 4. O–RING 13. O–RING
8
5. NYLON RING 14. BACK–UP RING
6. PACKING 15. BUSHING
9 7. NYLON RING 16. PACKING
8. PISTON HALF 17. RETAINER RING
(FLAT) 18. SETSCREW
9. PISTON ROD 19. WIPER RING

FIGURE 5. TILT CYLINDERS WITH CHEVRON PACKING (EARLY MODEL H360–650C)

Tilt Cylinders Using Chevron Packing
(See FIGURE 5. and FIGURE 6.)
NOTE: Always use new seals and O–rings. Make sure
all parts are clean. Lubricate all parts with clean hydrau-
lic oil.
NOTE: The following procedure is for the H360–650C
(early model).
NOTE: After assembly is complete, install the rod end
on the cylinder rod. Tighten the capscrew on the rod end
as specified in THE MAST section for your specific lift
truck.

5
 1 4 3 1. O–RING 2
2. BACK–UP RING
1. O–RING
3. BUSHING
2. BACK–UP RING
3. PACKING
4. BUSHING

3.0 mm 3
(0.125 in) 1

STEP 2. Install the O–ring and the back–up ring

STEP 1. Install the O–ring and the back–up ring
on the bushing. Install the packing in
the bushing. The end of the packing
must extend 3 mm (0.125 in) beyond the
end of the bushing.
on the retainer. Use your hand to push
the bushing into the retainer. Make sure
the O–ring is not damaged during install–
lation. Install the retainer and bushing
assembly on the cylinder rod.

STEP 3. Install the flat piston
half on the cylinder rod.
Put the O–ring on the
rod halfway between
the threads and the
piston half.
2 piston rod nut. Tighten
1
STEP 4. Install the piston half STEP 5. Push the piston into the
with the packing on the cylinder bore. Push the
cylinder rod. Make retainer into the bore.
sure the O–ring fits into Make sure the O–ring is
the piston groove not damaged.
when the piston half is
3
installed. Install the
to the specifications
given in TABLE 2. 2
3

2
3.0 mm
(0.125 in)
1

1. O–RING
2. PISTON HALF 1. CYLINDER ROD
1. PACKING 3. PISTON HALF 2. PISTON AND PACKING
2. PISTON HALF WITH PACKING 3. ROD NUT

FIGURE 6. TILT CYLINDERS WITH CHEVRON PACKING (1 of 2)

6
 1. WIPER SEAL
2. RETAINER
2
STEP 6. Install a new wiper seal in the retainer.
Turn the retainer into the cylinder shell
until the threads have started. Push the
piston in and out several times to make
sure the alignment is correct.
FIGURE 6. TILT CYLINDERS WITH CHEVRON PACKING (2 of 2)
CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS
CHECK THE TILT CYLINDERS FOR
LEAKS
WARNING
Never allow anyone under a raised carriage. Do not
put any part of your body in or through the lift
mechanism unless all parts of the mast are com-
pletely lowered and the engine is STOPPED.
Do not try to find hydraulic leaks by putting your
hand on hydraulic components under pressure. Hy-
draulic oil can be injected into the body by the pres-
sure.
1. Put a capacity load on the forks. Use a safety chain to
hold the load to the carriage. Raise the load approxi-
mately 2.5 m (8 ft). Put the mast in a vertical position.
2. Measure the distance that the rod for the tilt cylinder
extends from the shell. Check the distance the rod
moves in five or ten minutes. Multiply the rate in
1. RETAINER
2. SET SCREW
2
1
STEP 7. Tighten the retainer to the specifications
given in TABLE 2. Tighten the set screw.
TABLE 1. by the time of the test and compare the num-
bers.
2. If the tilt rate is greater than the specifications, lower
the mast and remove the load from the forks. Install a
valve between the port at the front of the tilt cylinder and
the hydraulic line. Put the load on the forks again. Close
the valve. Tilt the mast forward just past the vertical
position. If the mast continues to tilt slowly forward, the
seals on the piston are leaking.
3. If the mast does not move, open the gate valve and
check the movement again. If the mast moves forward
when the gate valve is open, check for leaks in the hy-
draulic lines and fittings. If no leaks are found, the main
control valve can be worn or damaged. Remove the load
from the forks when the checks are complete.
ADJUST THE TILT CYLINDER STROKE
AND THE MAST TILT ANGLE
Adjust the tilt cylinders as described in the section for
the MAST.
7
 TABLE 1. MOVEMENT RATES (MAXIMUM) FOR TILT CYLINDERS
HYDRAULIC OIL TEMPERATURE/MAST TILT RATE
LIFT TRUCK MODEL 20° C (68° F) 60° C (140° F)
mm/min in/min mm/min in/min

A1.00–1.50XL (A20–30XL) 1.3 0.05 9.1 0.50

E1.25–5.50XL,XM (E25–120XL) 0.8 0.03 5.0 0.20
J1.60–2.00 XMT (J30–40XM) 0.8 0.03 5.0 0.20
E/J2.00–3.20XM (E/J40–65XM) 0.8 0.03 5.0 0.20
H1.25–1.75XL (H25–35XL) 0.8 0.03 5.0 0.20
S/H/E1.50–1.75XM, S/H/E2.00XMS
0.8 0.03 5.0 0.20
(S/H/E25–35XM, S/H/E40XMS)
H2.00–3.00XL (H40–60XL) 1.1 0.04 7.3 0.30
S/H2.00–3.20XM (S/H40–65XM) 1.0 0.04 6.8 0.30
H3.50–7.00XL (H70–155XL) 1.3 0.05 8.9 0.34
H8.00–16.00XL (H165–360XL) 1.8 0.07 11.7 0.05
H20.00–32.00F (H440–700F/FS) 1.3 0.05 3.8 0.15
H36.00–48.00C (H800–1050C) 1.3 0.05 3.8 0.15
J2.00–3.00XL (J40–60XL) 0.8 0.03 5.0 0.20
J25–35A,B 1.3 0.05 3.8 0.15
S1.25–5.50XL (S25–120XL) 0.8 0.03 5.0 0.20
S6.00–7.00XL (S135–155XL) 1.2 0.05 8.2 0.32

8
 TABLE 2. TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS FOR THE TILT CYLINDERS
LIFT TRUCK MODEL PISTON ROD NUT RETAINER
Nm lbf ft Nm lbf ft
E1.25–1.75XL (E25–35XL) 163 to 190 120 to 140 169 to 237 125 to 175
J1.60–2.00XMT (J30–40XM) 163 to 190 120 to 140 163 to 176 120 to 130

E2.00–3.00XL (E40–60XL) 320 to 400 236 to 295 400 to 500 295 to 369

E/J2.00–3.20XM (E/J40–65XM) 150 110 170 to 237 125 to 175

E20–30B 244 to 271 180 to 200 407 to 475 300 to 350

E30–60B, E30–60AC 407 to 475 300 to 350 475 to 542 350 to 400

E3.50–5.50XL (E70–120XL) 400 to 440 295 to 325 400 to 500 295 to 370

E60–100B 407 to 440 300 to 325 576 to 644 425 to 475

H1.25–1.75XL (H25–35XL) 163 to 190 120 to 140 169 to 237 125 to 175

H/E1.50–1.75XM, H/E2.00XMS
(H/E25–35XM, H/E40XMS) 163 to 190 120 to 140 163 to 176 120 to 130

H20–30E 136 to 170 100 to 125 203 to 271 150 to 200

H2.00–3.00XL (H40–60XL) 163 to 190 120 to 140 169 to 237 125 to 175

S/H2.00–3.20XM (S/H40–65XM) 150 110 170 to 237 125 to 175

H30–60H, H40–60J 244 to 271 180 to 200 407 to 475 300 to 350

H3.50–5.00XL (H70–110XL) 400 to 440 295 to 325 400 to 500 295 to 369

H6.00–7.00XL (H135–155XL) 407 to 440 300 to 325 542 to 610 400 to 450

H7.00–12.50H (H150–275H) 330 to 350 447 to 475 475 to 542 350 to 400

H8.00–12.00XL (H165–280XL) 950 to 985 700 to 725 542 to 610 400 to 450

H13.00–16.00XL (H300–360XL) 1105 to 1140 815 to 840 610 to 675 450 to 500

H16.00–30.00C (H360–650C) – Early 1356 to 1492 1000 to 1100 542 to 610 400 to 450

H16.00–30.00C (H360–650C) – Late 1500 to 1600 1107 to 1181 450 to 550 332 to 406

H17.00–32.00C (H370–700C) 1500 to 1600 1107 to 1181 450 to 550 332 to 406

H20.00–32.00F (H440–700F/FS) 1500 to 1600 1107 to 1181 450 to 550 332 to 406

H32.00–44.00B (H700–920B) – Late 1500 to 1600 1107 to 1181 450 to 550 332 to 406

H36.00–48.00C (H800–1050C) 1500 to 1600 1107 to 1181 450 to 550 332 to 406

H60–90C 407 to 447 300 to 330 475 to 542 350 to 400

H60–110E 400 to 440 295 to 325 542 to 610 400 to 450

H110–150F 678 to 746 500 to 550 271 to 305 200 to 225

H300A 678 to 746 500 to 550

H300–350B 447 to 475 330 to 350 475 to 542 350 to 400

9
 TABLE 2. TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS FOR THE TILT CYLINDERS (continued)
LIFT TRUCK MODEL PISTON ROD NUT RETAINER
Nm lbf ft Nm lbf ft
H360–620B 1356 to 1492 1000 to 1100 542 to 610 400 to 450
H700–800A, H700–920B – Early See Text See Text
J2.00–3.00XL (J40–60XL) 320 to 400 236 to 295 400 to 500 295 to 369
J25–35A 244 to 271 180 to 200 407 to 475 300 to 350
J25–35B 320 to 400 236 to 295 400 to 500 295 to 369
J40–60A, J50–60AS 407 to 475 300 to 350 475 to 542 350 to 400
P40–50A, P60–80A 407 to 447 300 to 330 475 to 542 350 to 400
P7.00–8.00B (P150–200B) 447 to 475 330 to 350 475 to 542 350 to 400
S20–30A 136 to 170 100 to 125 203 to 271 150 to 200
S30–60E, S40–50F 407 to 475 300 to 350 475 to 542 350 to 400
S40–50C 224 to 271 180 to 200 407 to 475 300 to 350
S1.25–1.75XL (S25–35XL) 163 to 190 120 to 140 169 to 237 125 to 175
S25–35XM, S40XMS 163 to 190 120 to 140 163 to 176 120 to 130
S2.00–3.00XL (S40–60XL) 320 to 400 236 to 295 400 to 500 295 to 370
S3.00–5.50E (S60–120E) 407 to 440 300 to 325 576 to 644 425 to 475
S3.50–5.50XL (S70–120XL) 400 to 440 295 to 325 400 to 500 295 to 370
S5.50–7.00A (S125–150A) 542 to 610 400 to 450 176 to 244 130 to 180
S6.00–7.00XL (S135–155XL) 407 to 440 300 to 325 542 to 610 400 to 450

10

PROBLEM
Tilt cylinder movement is slow
or not smooth.
The tilt cylinders permit the
mast to move when the Tilt
control lever is in the Neutral
position.
TROUBLESHOOTING
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Air is in the hydraulic system.
The hydraulic pump is worn or dam-
aged.
Restriction in the hydraulic lines.
Seals in tilt cylinder are damaged.
Tilt cylinders have internal damage.
Load is greater than capacity.
Pressure relief valve(s) is not adjusted
correctly or is damaged.
Large leaks between spool and bore.
Spool is not fully extended or retracted Adjust linkage to spool.
Tilt control spool is damaged.
There are leaks in the hydraulic lines.
Seals in tilt cylinder are damaged.
Tilt cylinders have internal damage.
Tilt control spool is damaged.
PROCEDURE OR ACTION
Remove air from hydraulic system.
Repair or replace hydraulic pump.
Repair hydraulic lines.
Replace seals and inspect cylinder
bore for damage.
Repair or replace cylinder.
Reduce load.
Repair or adjust relief valve(s).
Replace valve section.
Repair control valve.
Tighten fittings or repair leaks.
Replace seals and inspect cylinder
bore for damage.
Repair or replace cylinder.
Repair control valve.
11
 INTRODUCTION
GENERAL The alternator generates an alternating current when the
This section has a description and the repair procedures engine is running. The alternator is either ON or OFF.
for the alternator with a voltage regulator as part of the The alternator generates maximum current when it is
alternator. ON and no current when it is OFF. The regulator
switches the alternator between ON and OFF to get the
CAUTION average current needed to charge the battery. Alternator
When using an arc welder, always disconnect the output is directly changed by engine speed and rotor
ground lead from the lift truck battery to prevent field current. The alternating current is changed to a di-
alternator or battery damage. Attach the welding rect current by the diode bridge inside the alternator.
ground clamp as close to the weld area as possible to
prevent welding current from damaging the
bearings.
The diodes and resistors in the electrical system can
be damaged if the following cautions are not
followed:
• Do not disconnect the battery when the engine
is running. The voltage surge can damage the
diodes and resistors in the electrical system.
• Do not disconnect an electric wire before the
engine is stopped and the switches are “OFF”.
• Do not cause a short–circuit by connecting the
electric wires to the wrong terminals. Make
sure a correct identification is made of the wire
before it is connected.
• Make sure a battery is the correct voltage and
polarity before it is connected. DELCO TYPE A SHOWN 7010

• Do not check for current flow by making a 1. BRUSH ASSEMBLY 5. DIODE BRIDGE
spark because the electronic components can 2. ROLLER BEARING 6. BALL BEARINGS
3. GREASE RESERVOIR 7. FELT SEAL
be damaged. 4. LIP SEAL 8. REGULATOR
NOTE: Information on alternators manufactured out- FIGURE 1. ALTERNATOR CROSS SECTION
side the United States is in the SRM (service repair The alternator has these parts:
manual) sections for lift trucks that use those alterna- A stator
tors. A rotor
A diode bridge
DESCRIPTION
A diode set (Type A only)
(See FIGURE 1. and FIGURE 2.)
Two end housings or frame halves
NOTE: For this SRM section, the alternators are in two
A solid–state voltage regulator
groups, Type A and Type B. The two types are very simi-
lar, but the Type A alternators have a set of three diodes The direct current from the diodes of the diode bridge
(diode set) as well as the diode bridge. The Type B alter- flows to the output or “BAT” terminal. A capacitor be-
nator has zener diodes as part of the diodes in the diode tween the “BAT” terminal and the electrical ground re-
bridge. This alternator does not have a diode set, but moves any remaining alternating current from the direct
does have an additional fan inside the rear housing. The current. The capacitor also protects the diodes from high
basic operation of both types is very similar. voltages. The voltage is controlled by the amount of

1
 4
5 1 1 1
3 2 11 12
12 11 2
5 4
10 13
13 6
6 13

10 L
P F S

9
9
8 7 8 7
DELCO TYPE A (SMALL DELCO TYPE B
8 7 9
CAPACITY LIFT TRUCKS)
1 MOTOROLA
14 6 7 10 TYPE A

1. BATTERY
2. KEY SWITCH
3. FUSE
4. RESISTOR
5. INDICATOR LIGHT OR
AMMETER
6. VOLTAGE REGULATOR
7. ROTOR FIELD
8. STATOR
9. DIODE BRIDGE
10. DIODE SET
13 5 11. FIELD TERMINAL
12. REGULATOR TERMINAL
13. OUTPUT (BAT) TERMINAL
14. VOLTAGE ADJUSTMENT

12114

8 DELCO TYPE A (LARGE 9 LEECE–NEVILLE NOT AVAILABLE,

CAPACITY LIFT TRUCKS) SIMILAR TO THOSE SHOWN.

FIGURE 2. SCHEMATIC FOR THE ALTERNATORS

2
current flowing through the field winding in the alterna-
tor and the rpm of the rotor. The voltage regulator, inside
the housing, contains a transistor, diodes, resistors and
capacitor. The voltage regulator cannot be repaired.
The voltage regulator controls the alternator to charge
the battery. The voltage is set by the manufacturer and is
not usually adjustable. Battery voltage decreases as the
starting circuit and other circuits take energy from the
battery. When the key switch is put in the “IGN” posi-
REPAIRS
GENERAL
NOTE: Use the TROUBLESHOOTING and CHECKS
AND ADJUSTMENTS sections of this SRM before
starting any repair procedures. Make sure that repair or
replacement of that part is necessary before removal,
disassembly, or replacement of the part.
WARNING
Always disconnect the battery ground cable before
making repairs to prevent possible damage and
injury. Install a tag on the battery terminal so that no
one connects the cable on the terminal.
REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY (Type A)
(See FIGURE 3., FIGURE 4. or FIGURE 5.)
NOTE: There are some checks of the alternator that are
done with the alternator on the engine. See the CHECKS
AND ADJUSTMENTS section of this SRM before start-
ing any removal or repair procedures.
NOTE: Many parts of the Leece–Neville alternator can
be replaced without disassembling the alternator. See
FIGURE 5. The alternator must be disassembled to re-
place only the diode bridge, filter capacitor, rotor, stator,
or bearings.
1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. Install labels
and disconnect the wires at the alternator. Loosen the al-
ternator mount capscrews and remove the drive belt.
Remove the capscrews that hold the alternator to the en-
gine.
2. On Leece–Neville alternators, remove the brushes,
voltage regulator or diode set. Install labels on all wires
for correct connection during installation.
tion, the voltage regulator is energized. A positive cur-
rent flows to the field terminal (“F” or “1”) on Type A
alternators “(L”) on type B. The battery sends a positive
current to the regulator terminal (Type A “R” or “2”) and
the “BAT” terminal. The regulator senses a decrease in
battery voltage and increases the alternator output to
charge the battery.
NOTE: On some large capacity lift trucks, the alterna-
tor has an external voltage adjustment.
3. Put a mark on each housing and on the stator for cor-
rect alignment during assembly. Remove the bolts that
hold the housings together. Separate the housings and
stator.
4. Put the rotor in a vise that has soft jaws. Do not tighten
the vise to cause rotor distortion. Use a socket wrench to
remove the pulley nut. Remove the pulley, fan, collar,
spacer, shield, or other parts between the fan and hous-
ing. Remove the front housing from the rotor.
5. Remove any nuts or screws that fasten parts inside to
the rear housing. Then remove the stator assembly from
the rear housing so that the other parts can be removed.
Remove the screws for the capacitor, diode bridge,
diode set, brushes and other parts as necessary. If the sta-
tor will be removed from the diode bridge, make sure the
wires have tags for correct connection during assembly.
6. Mark the stator to show the position of the brushes and
connector or diode bridge assembly. Use pliers as a heat
sink to keep heat from the diodes. Use a soldering iron to
remove the stator leads from the diode assembly.
7. Remove the bearings from the housings only if they
will be replaced.
CLEANING
CAUTION
Never use solvent on the parts of the alternator.
Use compressed air to remove dirt from the alternator.
Clean the brushes and slip rings with a clean dry cloth.
NOTE: If necessary, use fine abrasive cloth to polish
the slip rings. The abrasive cloth must be number 500 to
600. Remove all dust. Turn the rotor while polishing the
slip rings.
3
 MOTOROLA
DELCO
1. GROUND TERMINAL
2. BATTERY TERMINAL (BAT OR +)
FIGURE 3. TYPE A ALTERNATORS, REAR VIEWS
ASSEMBLY (Type A)
(See FIGURE 3., FIGURE 4. or FIGURE 5.)
1. For Delco (Type A) alternators, install new bearing(s)
in the housings as follows:
a. Install a new plug and seal in the rear housing.
Push the bearing from the outside of the housing
until the top of the bearing is even with the out-
side of the housing. Hold the housing with the
collar on the inside of the housing. Keep the lip of
the seal away from the bearing. Lubricate the
bearing area with Delco–Remy grease, part num-
ber 1948791.
b. Install a new bearing in the front housing. Fill one
quarter of the grease reservoir with Delco–Remy
grease, part number 1948791, or equivalent.
Move the grease so that it touches the bearing
when the retainer plate is installed.
c. Add the same type of grease to fill the area be-
tween the retainer plate and the bearing. Install
the spacer, gasket, and retainer plate on the bear-
ing. Fasten the retainer plate in position with the
three screws and lock washers.
2. For Motorola and Leece–Neville alternators, use a
press to install the rear bearing on the rotor. Install the
bearing and bearing retainer in the front housing. If
used, install the spacer on the bearing.
4
DELCO
12113
3. FIELD TERMINAL
4. REGULATOR TERMINAL
CAUTION
Hold the rotor in a vise that has soft jaws. Do not
tighten the vise more than necessary.
3. Install the front housing on the rotor. If used, install
the spacer or shield, shaft key, and washer. Install the
fan, pulley, lock washer, and nut. Tighten the nut to 54 to
81 Nm (40 to 60 lbf ft).
4. Install the diode bridge and heat sink in the reverse or-
der of disassembly. Make sure the insulators and wash-
ers are in the correct positions. Install the capacitor.
CAUTION
Be sure to install the insulators. Make sure the heat
sink does not touch the housing.
5. On Delco alternators, install parts as follows:
a. Install the brush and holder, voltage regulator,
and diodes from the inside of the alternator. Make
sure the insulator sleeves are on the screws for the
brush holder. Install the capacitor.
b. Install the stator in the rear housing. Connect the
three wires from the stator to the diode bridge and
fasten at the studs. Connect the wires from the
diodes to the studs on the diode bridge. Install and
tighten the three lock washers and nuts.
 DELCO

12112

1. INSULATOR
2. PLUG AND BEARING MOTOROLA
3. BEARING SEAL
4. BOLT 19. SLIP RINGS
5. HOUSING 12. STATOR 20. TERMINAL
6. VOLTAGE REGULATOR 13. DIODES 21. PULLEY
7. LOCK WASHER 14. NUT 22. FAN
8. BRUSH AND HOLDER 15. SCREW 23. RETAINER
9. BRUSH SPRING 16. DIODE BRIDGE 24. SPACER
10. WASHER 17. CAPACITOR 25. SHIELD
11. ROTOR 18. BEARING 26. GASKET
FIGURE 4. TYPE A ALTERNATORS, EXPLODED VIEWS

5
 2 3 5
1
LEECE–NEVILLE
6 8
4 7

16

10

13 9

12

15

7
14 11

1. TERMINAL
2. DIODE SET
3. BRUSH & SPRING 10. FAN
4. BRUSH HOLDER 11. ROTOR
5 VOLTAGE REGULATOR 12. STATOR
6. BEARING RETAINER 13. NEGATIVE DIODE BRIDGE
7. BEARING 14. POSITIVE DIODE BRIDGE
8. FRONT HOUSING 15. FILTER CAPACITOR
9. BOLT 16. REAR HOUSING
FIGURE 5. TYPE A ALTERNATOR, EXPLODED VIEW

c. Install the brushes in the brush holders. To hold
the brushes in position, put a pin through the hole
in the brush holders. Apply a thin layer of oil to
the lip of the seal for the bearing.
6. On Motorola alternators, install parts as follows:
a. Install the diode bridge on the stator. Use pliers to
keep the heat from the soldering iron away from
the diodes.
b. Install the capacitor, diode set, and terminal on
the diode bridge. Align the marks made during
removal and install the stator and bridge assem-
bly in the rear housing.
7. Align the marks made during disassembly. Carefully
install the stator and the rear housing over the rotor. Do
not damage the seal while sliding the housing over the
rotor shaft. Install the front housing.
8. Install the four screws to hold the alternator together.
On Delco alternators, remove pin to release the brushes.
9. On Motorola alternators, install the brush holder and
brushes. Make sure the washer is on the right–hand
screw. Install the voltage regulator and tighten the
screws.
10. On Leece–Neville alternators, install the brushes,
voltage regulator, or diode set in the reverse order of re-
moval.
REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY (Type B)
(See FIGURE 6. through FIGURE 8.)
NOTE: There are some checks of the alternator that are
done with the alternator on the engine. See the CHECKS
AND ADJUSTMENTS section of this SRM before start-
ing any removal or repair procedures.

6
 9
20
19
8
DELCO

6 7

4 14
5
18
17

2
16

13
3
15
1 11
1. NUT
2. PULLEY 12
3. COLLAR 11 14. VOLTAGE REGULATOR
4. OUTSIDE FAN 10 15. COVER
5. OUTSIDE COLLAR 16. REAR HOUSING
6. FRONT HOUSING 10. BAFFLE 17. BALL BEARING
7. INSIDE COLLAR 11. SCREW 18. RETAINER RING
8. STATOR 12. DIODE BRIDGE 19. TERMINAL SET
9. ROTOR AND FAN 13. BRUSHES AND HOLDER 20. BOLT
FIGURE 6. TYPE B ALTERNATOR, EXPLODED VIEW

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. Install labels
and disconnect the wires at the alternator. Disconnect
the wire connector. Loosen the alternator mount caps-
crews and remove the drive belt. Remove the capscrews
that hold the alternator to the engine.
2. Put a mark on each housing and on the stator for cor-
rect alignment during assembly. Remove the bolts that
hold the housings together. Separate the housings and
stator.
3. Put the rotor in a vise that has soft jaws. Do not tighten
the vise to cause rotor distortion. Use a socket wrench to
remove the pulley nut. Remove the pulley, collar, fan,
outside collar, front housing, and inside collar from the
rotor.
NOTE: The cover must be replaced if the parts will be
removed from the stator. If necessary, remove the stator
as described in Steps 4 and 5.
4. Use a punch to remove the rivets or pins that fasten the
cover. Remove the cover for access to the stator leads.
Discard the cover. See FIGURE 7.
5. Cut the stator leads as close to the connectors as pos-
sible. Install labels on the leads for correct connection
during assembly and remove the stator from the rear
housing.
6. Use a punch to remove the three baffle pins and re-
move the baffle. See FIGURE 7.
NOTE: Carefully make a note of the sequence of re-
moval of parts in Steps 7 and 8 for correct installation.
Also make a note of all types of connections (crimp, sol-
dered, or welded) as well as all mechanical fasteners.

7
7. Remove the three mount screws and “BAT” terminal
nut. See FIGURE 8. Lift the brush holder, voltage regu-
lator and diode bridge from the housing.
8. Open the crimps or use a soldering iron the disconnect
the connectors to separate the brush holder, voltage reg-
ulator and diode bridge.
9. If the bearing will be replaced in the rear housing, re-
move the bearing and retainer ring.
CLEANING
7. Align the marks made during disassembly and install
the stator in the rear housing. Use pliers on the connec-
tors of the diode bridge to keep heat from the diodes. Use
a soldering iron to connect the stator leads to the connec-
tors.
8. Install a new cover using rivets or pins to fasten the
cover to the rear housing.
5
1

CAUTION
4
Never use solvent on the parts of the alternator.
4
Use compressed air to remove dirt from the alternator.
Clean the brushes and slip rings with a clean dry cloth.
5
NOTE: If necessary, use fine abrasive cloth to polish
the slip rings. The abrasive cloth must be number 500 to
600. Remove all dust. Turn the rotor while polishing the
slip rings.

ASSEMBLY (Type B) (See FIGURE 6.)

1. If the bearing was removed from the rear housing,
3
install a new retainer ring.
2
2. Install a new bearing by pushing on the new bearing 5 3 4
outer race until the bearing hits the bottom in the rear
housing. 12113

TYPE B ONLY
CAUTION 1. REAR HOUSING
The bearing is not completely installed until Step 11 2. COVER
is complete. 3. COVER RIVETS OR PINS
4. BAFFLE PINS
3. Assemble the voltage regulator, diode bridge, and 5. BOLTS TO FASTEN
HOUSINGS TOGETHER
brush holder on a flat surface. Put crimps in the connec-
tors or solder the connectors to fasten and connect the FIGURE 7. OUTSIDE REAR HOUSING
parts as originally assembled. Use a pin to hold the
9. If necessary, install the bearing in the front housing.
brushes in the brush holder. Put the rotor in a vise with soft jaws and install the inner
4. Put a thin coating of silicon grease (Delco part num- collar, front housing, outer collar, fan, collar pulley, and
ber 1974984) on the inside of the rear housing under the nut on the rotor. Tighten the nut to 54 to 108 Nm (40 to
diode bridge. 80 lbf ft) torque.

5. Install the bridge, regulator, and brush holder assem-
bly in the rear housing and install the screws as removed
during disassembly.
6. Install the baffle and use a punch to fasten the pins.
10. Align the front and rear housings using the marks
made during disassembly. Push on both the inner and
outer races of the rear bearing to push the two housings
and stator together. Install the three bolts that fasten the
alternator together.

8
11. Push on both the inner and outer race of the rear bear- 8
ing so that the outer race is 1.9 to 2.2 mm (0.097 to 0.087
1
in) below the surface of the rear housing.
2 7

INSTALLATION ( Type A and Type B)

(See FIGURE 3. or FIGURE 7.)
3
1. Instal the alternator in the bracket on the engine and
9
adjust the tension of the belt.
7
6

2. Connect all wires and the connector according to the 8

labels made during removal. Also see the schematic dia- 5,8 7 4 7014
5,8
gram for your alternator in FIGURE 2. Make sure all TYPE B ONLY
wires are connected correctly and all fasteners are tight. 1. REAR HOUSING
See FIGURE 3. 2. VOLTAGE REGULATOR
3. BRUSH HOLDER
4. DIODE BRIDGE
3. Check the indicator light or the ammeter to check the 5. TERMINALS FOR STATOR LEADS
6. NUT ON “BAT” TERMINAL
operation of the alternator. The indicator light for Type 7. MOUNT SCREWS
A alternators will only be ON if the battery is dis- 8. SOLDERED OR WELDED CONNECTOR
charged. The indicator light can also be ON if the alter- 9. BRUSH PIN
nator output is too high on Type B alternators. FIGURE 8. INSIDE REAR HOUSING

CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS

GENERAL Make sure polarity is correct before connecting a

There are no adjustments for the alternator or most regu-
lators. One Delco alternator and the Leece–Neville al-
ternator has a voltage adjustment.
Always check the general condition of the complete sys-
tem before doing a complete check on each part. Check
the general condition of the following parts: (1) battery,
(2) battery cables and connections, and (3) alternator
and regulator wires and connectors. Also check the con-
dition and tension of the fan belt for the alternator.
battery charger or another battery.
Remove the battery cables and clean the terminals and
cable connectors. Inspect the insulation on the wires.
Make sure all the fasteners and connections are clean
and tight. If necessary, use a water and soda solution to
clean the top of the battery. Do NOT remove the cell
caps or permit the water and soda solution to get in the
battery.

CAUTION WARNING
NEVER operate the engine if the alternator output Put the transmission in NEUTRAL. Apply the park-
“BAT” terminal is not connected to the battery. ing brake.

Do not short–circuit or connect jumper wires to any CAUTION

of the alternator terminals unless told to by the pro- Do not change the polarity of the circuits. Do not con-
cedures. nect any wires in the circuits, except as described in

9
these instructions. Never connect the wire from the 2. Connect a voltmeter to the field terminal and the regu-
terminal marked “BAT” to an open circuit. lator terminal. Follow the procedure in Step 1 and check
the readings.
When connecting a charger or another battery, connect
the positive terminals to the positive terminal of the bat-
tery. Then connect the negative terminal to a clean metal
part of the engine. Disconnect the charger or other bat-
tery in the reverse order. Problems in the charging cir-
cuit are indicated by one or more of the following:
a. The starter motor turns slowly. The battery volt-
age is low because of low alternator output or a
bad battery.
b. The specific gravity readings are low. Battery is
not fully charged or is damaged.
c. The battery uses more than 30 ml (one ounce) of
water per cell per month. The alternator output is
too high.

The two problems of the charging circuit are low output

and high output. Low output causes a low battery and 5139
TYPE A ONLY
difficult starting. A high output causes heating of the
battery and evaporation of water from the electrolyte. 1. CARBON PILE 5. ALTERNATOR
The following two checks will find out if the alternator, 2. BATTERY 6. “BAT” TERMINAL
regulator or wiring has the charging fault. The two 3. AMMETER 7. FIELD TERMINAL
4. STARTER
checks will also find out if the charging system has a cor-
rect output. Do the following two checks before re- FIGURE 9. CHECK ALTERNATOR OUTPUT
moval, disassembly or replacement of alternator or 3. If there are no readings on the voltmeter during Steps
regulator. 1 and 2, check for an open circuit between each terminal
and the battery.
NOTE: Information on alternators manufactured out-
side the United States is in the SRM (service repair 4. If there are readings on the voltmeter during Steps 1
manual) sections for lift trucks that use those alterna- and 2, disconnect the cable for the electrical ground on
tors. the battery.
5. Make connections to the Type A alternator as shown
CHECK THE ALTERNATOR FOR LOW
in FIGURE 9. Make connections to the Type B alterna-
OUTPUT (Type A or Type B)
tor as shown in FIGURE 10.
(See FIGURE 9. or FIGURE 10.)
6. Connect the cable for the electrical ground on the bat-
CAUTION tery.
Do not connect the wire from the “BAT“ terminal to 7. Connect a carbon pile across the terminals of the bat-
the electrical ground. tery.
NOTE: Make sure the wire from the voltmeter makes 8. Run the engine at 2000 to 2500 rpm. Adjust the car-
contact with each terminal on the alternator. bon pile until the maximum charging rate is reached.
1. Connect a voltmeter between the “BAT“ terminal and 9. Read the value of the maximum charging rate shown
the electrical ground. Turn the key switch to the “ON“ on the alternator housing or in the section CAPACITIES
position and check the reading. AND SPECIFICATIONS for your lift truck. Read the

10
ammeter. The reading on the ammeter must be within
10% of the maximum value. DELCO TYPE A SHOWN
2

2
1
3
1

4
12113
1
1. HOLE
2. MAKE SURE SCREWDRIVER TOUCHES
8 7 HOUSING AND METAL TAG
5
FIGURE 11. ELECTRICAL GROUND ON THE
6 FIELD WINDING

5139
TYPE B ONLY a. If the output shown is not within 10%, put a
screwdriver into the hole shown in FIGURE 11.
1. BATTERY 5. AMMETER b. Run the engine at 2000 to 2500 rpm. Adjust the
2. CARBON PILE 6. ALTERNATOR
3. VOLTMETER 7. “BAT” TERMINAL
carbon pile until the maximum charging rate is
4. RESISTOR (35 ohm 5 8. CONNECT TO reached.
watt to 500 ohm 1/2 watt) “L” TERMINAL
c. If the output is within 10%, check the field wind-
FIGURE 10. CHECK ALTERNATOR OUTPUT ing. If the field winding is in good condition, re-
place the voltage regulator.
10. If the ammeter reading is within 10%, the alternator
is in good condition. Check the starter or wires for prob- d. If the output is not within 10%, check the wires to
lems. Some alternators on larger lift trucks have a volt- the brushes, diodes, diode bridge, field winding,
age adjustment. See FIGURE 12. For alternators with and stator.
the voltage adjustment do Step a to set the voltage: e. Remove the screwdriver, ammeter, and variable
a. The voltage setting can be increased by changing resistor.
the position of the adjustment plug. “LO” is the
CHECK THE ALTERNATOR FOR HIGH
lowest voltage setting. “2” is medium low and
OUTPUT (Type A or Type B)
“3” is the medium setting. The voltage setting is
(See FIGURE 9. or FIGURE 10.)
highest when “HI” is aligned with the arrow on
the alternator. Change the setting as necessary. 1. Connect a voltmeter from the regulator terminal to the
11. On Type A Delco alternators, do the following electrical ground. Check the reading on the voltmeter.
checks: 2. If there are no readings, check for an open circuit be-
tween the regulator terminal and the battery.
CAUTION
Do not push the screwdriver into the hole for more 3. If there is a reading, connect a voltmeter between the
than 25 mm (1 in). “BAT” terminal and the electrical ground.

11
 7
6

DELCO TYPE A

1
VOLTAGE
ADJUSTMENT
CAP SHOWN IN
“MEDIUM HIGH”
(3) POSITION

2
1

3 DELCO
3310
4

1
MOTOROLA
1. BRUSH HOLDER 7012

LEECE–NEVILLE 2. CAPACITOR
3. DIODE BRIDGE
4. NUTS
5. DIODES
6. INSULATOR WASHERS
7. OHMMETER
FIGURE 13. CHECK THE CIRCUIT FOR THE
BRUSHES

a. Delco alternator
The voltage setting can be increased or decreased
by changing the position of the adjustment plug.
3310 See FIGURE 12. “LO” is the lowest voltage set-
ting. “2” is medium low and “3” is the medium
FIGURE 12. ADJUST THE VOLTAGE setting. The voltage setting is highest when “HI”
is aligned with the arrow on the alternator. Do not
change the setting when engine is operating.
4. Increase the engine speed until the maximum voltage Change the setting as necessary.
reading is reached.
b. Leece–Neville alternator
5. If the voltage shown is more than 15.5 volts, disas- Remove the screw in the cover. See FIGURE 12.
semble the alternator and do the remainder of the Start the engine. Connect a voltmeter across the
checks. For alternators with the voltage adjustment, do battery terminals and use a screwdriver to adjust
the following: the voltage.

12
CHECK THE CIRCUIT FOR THE
BRUSHES DELCO TYPE A

Delco Alternators (See FIGURE 13.) 1 2

1. Use an ohmmeter that has a 1.5 volt cell. (Use the low-
est range scale.) Connect the ohmmeter from the clip for
the brushes to the metal housing. Make the test, then
connect the ohmmeter leads in the reverse direction and
test again.
2. If both readings are zero, either the wire or the clip for
the brushes has a short–circuit to ground, or the voltage
regulator has damage.
3 3
3. The cause of the problem can also be a missing wash-
1. OHMMETER
er, a missing sleeve on a screw, or a damaged insulator. 2. COMMON FOR DIODE SET
See FIGURE 13. Remove the screw and inspect the in- 3. DIODE SET CONNECTIONS
sulator. If the insulator is in good condition, do Steps 4, 4. DIODE BRIDGE
5, and 6. 3
3 2
4. Connect the ohmmeter from the wire of the diodes to
the housing. D
5. If the reading is zero on the ohmmeter, either the wire
to the diodes has a short–circuit to ground, or the voltage
regulator has damage. A MOTOROLA

6. The cause of the problem can be a missing washer, a B 7013

C
missing sleeve on a screw, or a damaged insulator. Re- E
move the screw and inspect the insulator. If the insulator
FIGURE 14. CHECK THE DIODES
is in good condition, replace the voltage regulator.

Motorola Alternators CHECK THE DIODE BRIDGE

1. Use an ohmmeter or a 12 volt test lamp to check the
brushes as shown in FIGURE 13.
2. For correct operation, there must be continuity be-
tween A to B, and C to D. There must be no continuity
from A to D, or from C to B. See FIGURE 13. If there is
continuity, the brushes are connected to the wrong ter-
minal.
CHECK THE DIODES (See FIGURE 14.)
Use an ohmmeter with a 1.5 volt cell. Use the lowest
range scale. Connect one lead of tester to the common
connector, and one lead to one of the three diode connec-
tions. Make the test, then reverse the tester leads and
make the same test. If both readings are the same read-
ing, replace the diodes. A good diode will show one high
reading, and one low reading.
Delco and Leece–Neville Alternators
(See FIGURE 15.)
To check the diode bridge, connect the ohmmeter to one
heat sink and each of the three diodes in turn. Check the
readings, then connect the leads in the reverse direction.
If both readings are the same, replace the diode. Repeat
the test for the other heat sink checking in both direc-
tions.
Motorola Alternators (See FIGURE 14.)
Remove the wires for the diode set from the terminals A,
B, and C. Use an ohmmeter, diode tester, or 12 volt test
lamp to check between points A, B, and C and points D
and E. Good diodes indicate continuity in only one di-
rection. If any parts are bad, replace the diode bridge as-
sembly.

13
 1 DELCO TYPE A
7014

2
9552

2
2
4
FIGURE 16. ROTOR COIL CHECKS
DELCO TYPE B

2
5

LEECE–NEVILLE

9555

1. BRUSH HOLDER
2. HEAT SINK
3. VOLTAGE REGULATOR FIGURE 17. STATOR CHECKS
4. DIODE
5. OHMMETER than specified, there is a short circuit in the windings. If
the reading is more than specified, there is excessive re-
FIGURE 15. CHECK THE DIODE BRIDGE sistance in the windings.
To check the electrical ground, connect the ohmmeter
CAUTION between either slip ring and the electrical ground as
Do not use a 120 volt test lamp to check the diode shown in FIGURE 16. Replace the rotor if the reading is
bridge. Use a 12 volt tester to prevent diode damage. less than infinity.
CHECK THE FIELD WINDING FOR THE NOTE: Make sure the needle in the ohmmeter always
ROTOR (See FIGURE 16.) returns to zero correctly. The readings will change when
Connect an ohmmeter to each slip ring and check for the temperature of the winding changes.
open circuits. If the reading is high (infinity), the wind-
CHECK THE WINDINGS IN THE STATOR
ing has an open circuit. To check the resistance of the
field, connect the ohmmeter to the two slip rings. The To check the stator windings for electrical ground, con-
correct reading is 4.0 to 4.5 ohms. If the reading is less nect an ohmmeter as shown in FIGURE 17. There must

14
be no continuity between any of the stator terminals and illuminate or the meter reading is high, the windings
the metal housing. have an open circuit.

CHECK THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR

To check the stator for open circuits, connect the ohm- Use a voltage regulator test device. Do not use an ohm-
meter or test lamp between each pair of wires to the sta- meter. If the voltage regulator has damage, replace the
tor, as shown in FIGURE 17. If the test lamp does not voltage regulator.

TROUBLESHOOTING
TROUBLE POSSIBLE CAUSE PROCEDURE OR ACTION
Battery is charged above normal. Alternator is not charging correctly. Repair or install new parts.
Electrical ground in wire to brush or Repair or install new parts.
clip.
High resistance in the circuit. Repair or install new parts.
Battery uses more water than nor- Battery is charging more than nor- Replace voltage regulator.
mal. mal.
Alternator has damage in the field Install new parts.
windings, diodes, diode bridge,
or stator.
Battery has damage or is too old. Replace battery.
There is no charge from the alterna- The brushes are worn or damaged. Install new brushes.
tor.
Weak springs for brushes. Brushes Install new parts.
or brush holders do not move
freely.
Dirt on the slip rings. Clean or install new parts.
There is no charge from the alterna- There is an electrical ground in the Replace rotor or alternator.
tor. The indicator light or ammeter field winding.
indicates a discharged condition
when the rpm is high and the load is Drive belt is not tight or is broken. Adjust or replace drive belt.
high.
Ammeter or the indicator light indi- There is a short–circuit in the Install new parts.
cates a discharged condition at all diodes.
speeds.
There is an electrical ground at the Replace rotor or alternator.
end of the windings.
The voltage regulator has damage. Replace voltage regulator.

15
 INTRODUCTION

GENERAL DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION

This section has a description and the service proce-
dures for the starter, the solenoid, and the solenoid
switch.
NOTE: Information on starters manufactured outside
the United States is in the SRM sections for lift trucks
that use those starters.
(See FIGURE 1. through FIGURE 3.)
The positive battery cable is connected to the “BAT” ter-
minal on the starter solenoid. Battery voltage is not
applied to the starter until the ignition switch, the sole-
noid switch (diesel units only), and the transmission
neutral switch close. The solenoid moves the linkage
and the drive clutch to engage the starter pinion with the
ring gear. At the end of its stroke, the plunger of the sole-
noid closes the main solenoid contacts. The current then
flows to the starter windings. The starter pinion turns the
flywheel ring gear.

The starter is a linkage type with a drive clutch mecha-

nism. The solenoid is fastened to the starter. The pinion
1
is part of the drive clutch. The drive clutch is moved on
the armature shaft by the linkage connected to the sole-
noid plunger. When the engine starts, the pinion is still
2 engaged with the ring gear. The pinion turns freely when
driven by the ring gear. When the key is released, the
pinion moves away from the ring gear and the starter cir-
cuit opens.

When energized, the starter solenoid moves the linkage,

3 closes the contacts, and energizes the starter. The sole-
noid has two windings. When energized, one winding
4 pulls the solenoid plunger to close the contacts. The oth-
er winding holds the plunger in that position. The cur-
rent for the winding that pulls must flow through the
starter brushes to a ground. The ground for the winding
that holds the plunger in position is the solenoid frame.
When the key switch is closed, the current flows through
6 both windings. When the plunger moves the linkage, the
contacts close, which causes the winding that pulls to
have a short–circuit. That winding is deenergized, but
5 the current continues to flow through the winding that
holds the plunger. The winding that holds the plunger is
1. BATTERY deenergized when the key switch is released.
2. IGNITION SWITCH
3. NEUTRAL START SWITCH The solenoid switch is a relay that is used in the diesel
4. STARTER SOLENOID
5. STARTER starter circuit. The solenoid for the starter of the diesel
6. SOLENOID SWITCH (NOT engine uses more current than does the solenoid for the
ON ALL UNITS) 5894 starter of the gasoline engine. The solenoid switch is ac-
FIGURE 1. STARTING CIRCUIT tuated by turning the key switch to the start position. The
solenoid switch closes the contacts that energize the so-
lenoid of the starter.

1
 10. ARMATURE
11. THROUGH BOLT
12. SOLENOID PLUNGER
13. LINKAGE
14. DRIVE HOUSING
1. END FRAME 15. LEVER HOUSING
2. GROUND BRUSH HOLDER 16. RETAINER
3. BRUSH SPRING 17. THRUST COLLAR
4. BRUSH SUPPORT 18. DRIVE CLUTCH
5. INSULATED BRUSH HOLDER 19. SNAP RING
6. BRUSH 20. SOLENOID
7. POLE SHOE 21. COVER
8. FIELD COIL 22. SPRING
9. SPACER 23. GASKET
24. CENTER BEARING
PLATE AND SEAL

5895

FIGURE 2. STARTER

2
 1. KEY SWITCH
2. NEUTRAL START SWITCH
3. HOLD WINDING
4. SOLENOID
5. PLUNGER
6. DRIVE LINKAGE
7. DRIVE CLUTCH
8. STARTER
9. CONTACTS
10. PULL WINDING
11. TO BATTERY

8704

FIGURE 3. SOLENOID WINDINGS

REPAIRS

NOTE: If the starter does not operate correctly, refer to

CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS before beginning any
repair procedures.

REMOVAL

WARNING
Always disconnect the battery ground cable before
making repairs to prevent possible damage and
injury. Install a tag on the battery terminal so that no
one connects the cable on the terminal.

1. Install labels on the starter wires and cables for correct

connection during installation. Disconnect the wires
and the cables to the starter. 1
2
2. Remove the capscrews that hold the starter to the fly-
wheel housing.

3. If used, remove the spacers and the gaskets.

4. Remove the starter from the lift truck.

4304

DISASSEMBLY
(See FIGURE 2. and FIGURE 4.) 1. METAL TUBE, 13 mm (0.5 in)
INSIDE DIAMETER
1. Remove the screw and lock washer connecting the 2. RETAINER
field coil strap to the “M” terminal of the solenoid. FIGURE 4. REMOVE THE RETAINER

3
2. Remove the two screws that hold the solenoid to the
drive end housing. Turn the solenoid 1/4 turn and re-
move it from the starter.
3. Remove the two bolts that hold the commutator end
frame and the field frame to the drive housing. Make
alignment marks on the end frame and on the field frame
for easy assembly. Pull the end frame from the field
frame. On some models it is necessary to pull the
brushes from the holders. Remove the field frame.
4. If used, remove the four screws holding the center
bearing plate to the drive end housing.
5. Remove the armature from the drive end housing. Tilt
the armature to disengage the linkage from the drive
clutch. On some models it is necessary to remove the
linkage before removing the armature.
6. Remove the thrust collar from the armature shaft. Put
a metal tube with a 13 mm (0.5 in) inside diameter over
the end of the shaft. See FIGURE 4. Hit the tube to move
the retainer. Remove the snap ring. Remove the drive
clutch.
7. Remove the center bearing plate. Remove the seal
from the plate.
CLEANING
CAUTION
Never use solvent on the drive clutch, armature, or
field windings. Use a cloth to clean these parts.
Use solvent to clean all parts of the starter, except the
windings and the drive clutch. Dry the parts with com-
pressed air.
ASSEMBLY
(See FIGURE 2. and FIGURE 5.)
1. Install a new seal in the center bearing plate.
2. Lubricate the armature shaft and the bushings with a
silicone lubricant.
3. Put the center bearing plate, drive clutch, retainer,
snap ring, and thrust washer on the armature shaft.
Install the snap ring, thrust washer, and retainer as
shown in FIGURE 5.
4
4. Install the shaft assembly in the drive end housing.
Make sure the linkage is engaged in the drive clutch. In-
stall and tighten the four screws for the bearing plate.
1
2
3
C010
1. THRUST COLLAR
2. RETAINER
3. SNAP RING
FIGURE 5. INSTALL THE RETAINER
5. Install the field frame over the armature. Retract the
brush springs and slide the brushes on the commutator.
6. Align the marks and install the thrust washer and the
commutator end frame. Install and tighten the through
bolts.
7. Make sure the solenoid cover is not damaged. Install
the plunger spring and the solenoid. Install and tighten
the solenoid mount screws. Connect the field coil strap
to the “M” terminal with the screw and lock washer.
INSTALLATION
1. Make sure the surfaces of the flywheel housing, the
spacer, and the starter are clean and smooth. Install the
gaskets or use a sealant (Hyster part number 264159)
that forms a gasket between metal parts.
2. Install the capscrews and washers as necessary. Tight-
en the capscrews.
3. Connect the wires and the cables to the starter accord-
ing to the labels made during removal.
4. Connect the ground cable to the battery.
 CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS

GENERAL

Before removing the starter, see FIGURE 6. Also see

FIGURE 7. Make the following checks:

a. Check the voltage of the battery.

CAUTION
Do not operate the starter for more than 30 seconds.
Be sure to wait at least two minutes between checks.

b. Check the voltage at the motor terminal of the so-

lenoid while the key switch is in the “START” po-
sition. The voltage must be more than 9 volts. See 1. KEY SWITCH 5. “M” TERMINAL
FIGURE 6. 2. “BAT” TERMINAL 6. BATTERY
3. “S” TERMINAL 7. VOLTMETER
c. Inspect all the connections to the battery, starter 4. STARTER C004
solenoid, key switch, and neutral start switch. FIGURE 7. RESISTANCE TEST
Clean and tighten, if necessary.
After removing the starter, but before disassembly,
d. Check the resistance of the connections with a make the following checks:
voltmeter. See FIGURE 7. Each connection must f. Check the ring gear(on the flywheel) for damage.
not have more than a 0.5 volt loss.
g. Check the pinion gear (on the drive clutch) for
e. Check the voltage at the “S” terminal of the sole- damage. The pinion must turn in one direction
noid. It must be more than 7 volts. and lock in the other. Replace the complete as-
sembly if any part has damage.

CAUTION
The pinion will move toward the drive end housing
when turned in the locked direction. Do not turn it
too far or it will lock in the extended position.
h. Check the clearance of the armature bushings.
i. Check for cracks in the drive end housing.
When the starter is disassembled, make the following
checks:
a. Check that the seals are good on units that use an
oil clutch or a powershift transmission.
b. Check for wear in the linkage.
c. Test for a ground in the armature windings. See
FIGURE 8. Touch one wire of an ohmmeter to
the shaft and the other to each commutator bar.
8705
1. MOTOR TERMINAL The armature has a short–circuit to ground if the
2. GROUND ON ENGINE ohmmeter indicates a complete circuit.
FIGURE 6. STARTER VOLTAGE TEST d. Test for open circuits in the armature. Put one
wire of an ohmmeter on one commutator bar and

5
 the other on the bar 180 degrees opposite. The
ohmmeter must indicate a complete circuit.
Commutator bars that are burned indicate an 2
open circuit.

8708

FIGURE 8. ARMATURE GROUND TESTS

8706

1. FIELD COIL STRAP

2. GROUND BRUSH
FIGURE 10. TESTING THE FIELD COIL FOR
OPEN CIRCUIT

f. Test for an open circuit in the field coils. See

FIGURE 10. Connect the wires of an ohmmeter
to the ends of the field coils. The ohmmeter must
indicate a complete circuit.
g. Check that the brush springs have enough ten-
sion.
1

1 2

2
8707

1. INSULATED BRUSH
2. GROUND BRUSH
FIGURE 9. FIELD COIL GROUND TEST

e. Test for a ground in the field coil circuit. See

FIGURE 9. Touch one wire of an ohmmeter to
the field frame and the other to the field coil 8709

brushes. On some models it is necessary to dis- 1. COMMUTATOR WITH MICA INSULATION

2. COMMUTATOR WITH PLASTIC INSULATION
connect the field ground strap. The field coils (DO NOT CUT THE INSULATION)
have a short–circuit to ground if the ohmmeter in-
dicates a complete circuit. FIGURE 11. TWO TYPES OF INSULATION

6
 h. Check the brushes for wear. The brushes must be
at least one half the length of new ones.
i. If the commutator is rough or is burned it must be
repaired with a lathe.
FIGURE 11. Do not cut the insulation between the
bars on the commutator. The plastic material is nec-
essary to support the bars. The plastic material is
softer than the bars and will wear at the same rate.

CAUTION j. Check for bad solder connections at the commu-

Remove only enough metal to clean the surface on tator bars. Solder the connections that have dam-
the commutators with the plastic insulation. See age.

TROUBLESHOOTING

TROUBLE POSSIBLE CAUSE PROCEDURE OR ACTION

The starter will not turn; no noise at Battery is discharged or has dam- Replace battery.
the solenoid. age.
A fuse is burned out. Replace fuse.
A wire in the control circuit is dis- Connect wire.
connected.
The key switch has damage. Install new parts.
The neutral start switch has dam- Install new parts.
age.
The battery is discharged or has Recharge or replace battery.
damage.
The cable connections are bad. Install new parts.
The solenoid has damage. Replace solenoid.
The starter brushes are worn or Replace brushes.
dirty.
The solenoid switch has damage. Replace switch.

The starter will not turn; the sole-
noid makes noise.
The battery is discharged or has Recharge or replace battery.
damage.
The starter brushes are worn or Replace brushes.
dirty.
The contacts in the solenoid are Install new parts.
worn.
The armature circuit has damage. Repair or install new parts.
The cable connections have too Clean or install new parts.
much resistance.

The starter will not turn. The amme- The control circuit has a short cir- Check wiring for damage and re-
ter indicates a large current draw. cuit. pair.
The pinion is not engaging the ring Check the clutch on the starter for
gear. damage and repair.
The solenoid has damage. Replace solenoid.

7
 TROUBLESHOOTING (contd)
The cables get too hot.
The starter turns too slowly.
The starter turns, but the engine will The drive clutch has damage.
not turn.
The starter makes too much noise.
8
The battery is discharged or has
damage.
The pinion is not disengaging from
the ring gear.
The armature shaft is bent.
The cable has a short circuit.
The bushings are worn or dam-
aged.
The engine has damage.
The battery is discharged or has
damage.
The cable connections have too
much resistance.
The starter brushes are worn or
dirty.
The armature circuit has damage.
The field circuit has damage.
The starter brushes are worn or
dirty.
The ring gear has damage.
The engine has damage.
The ignition timing is not correct.
The pinion is not disengaging from
the ring gear.
The ring gear has damage.
The solenoid has damage.
The ring gear has damage.
The drive clutch has damage.
The battery is discharged or has
damage.
The starter brushes are worn or
dirty.
Recharge or replace the battery.
Check the clutch on the starter for
damage and repair.
Repair or replace armature.
Repair or replace cable.
Replace bushings.
Repair or install new parts.
Recharge or replace battery.
Repair or install new parts.
Clean or replace brushes.
Repair or replace armature.
Clean or replace brushes.
Install new parts.
Repair or install new parts.
Recalibrate the ignition timing.
Install new parts.
Check the clutch on the starter for
damage and repair.
Install new parts.
Replace solenoid.
Install new parts.
Install new parts.
Recharge or replace battery.
Replace brushes.
 INTRODUCTION
GENERAL
This section has the troubleshooting and repair proce-
dures for the parts of the electronic engine controls. Us-
ers of this section must know the components and opera-
tion as described in the section ELECTRONIC EN-
GINE CONTROL – Description and Operation,
2200 SRM 525.
The electronic engine control system is made of many
parts. The main parts are the Throttle Body Injection
(TBI) unit and the Electronic Control Module (ECM).
These parts and their sensors give information about en-
gine operation and the systems it controls. The ECM has
the ability to perform some troubleshooting of itself and
of other parts of the system. When a problem is found,
the ECM turns “ON” the “Malfunction Indicator” lamp
that is in the instrument cluster. A diagnostic trouble
code (DTC) is kept in the memory of the ECM.
TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE
Before using this part of the manual, you need to know
the information and the correct troubleshooting proce-
dures. If the correct troubleshooting procedures are not
followed, as described in this section, it can result in re-
placement of good parts. Troubleshooting charts use a
“SCAN” tool where possible. The “SCAN” tool has the
ability to save time in troubleshooting and preventing
the replacement of good parts.
HOW THIS SECTION IS ARRANGED
This section is in five parts that describe the trouble-
shooting and repair procedures. They are as follows.
INTRODUCTION
TROUBLESHOOTING CHARTS
TROUBLESHOOTING – POOR OPERATION
SYSTEM TEST CHARTS
REPAIRS
Where Do I Start?
There are three things to do to start troubleshooting. The
first item is to become familiar with the electronic en-
gine control system.
Secondly, always start your work with a good visual/
physical inspection. See the following paragraph for
more explanation.
The last item on the ”Where Do I Start” list is the ”On–
Board Diagnostic” (OBD) System Check.
VISUAL/PHYSICAL INSPECTION
A careful visual and physical inspection must be done as
part of any diagnostic procedure. This can cause the re-
pair of a problem without further steps. Inspect all vacu-
um hoses for correct routing, restrictions, cuts or bad
connections. Be sure to inspect hoses that are difficult to
see beneath the air filter. Inspect all the wires in the en-
gine compartment for proper connections, damaged
spots, or contact with sharp edges or the exhaust man-
ifolds. This visual/physical inspection is very impor-
tant. It must be done carefully.
KNOWLEDGE/TOOLS REQUIRED
To use this manual most effectively, a general under-
standing of basic electrical circuits and circuit testing
tools is required. One should be familiar with wiring
diagrams, the meaning of voltage, ohms, amps, the basic
theories of electricity, and understand what happens in
an open or shorted wire. To perform the troubleshooting
procedures, the use of a diagnostic “SCAN” tool is re-
quired. A tachometer, test lamp, ohmmeter, digital volt-
meter with 10 megohms impedance, vacuum gauge, and
jumper wires are also required. Special tools that are re-
quired for system service and the ones described above
are shown at the end of this section.
DAMAGE FROM STATIC DISCHARGE
(STATIC ELECTRICITY)
Electronic components used in control systems use a
very low voltage, and can be easily damaged by static
discharge or static electricity. Less than 100 volts of stat-
ic electricity can cause damage to some electronic com-
ponents. There are several ways for a person to become
statically charged. The most common methods of charg-
ing are by friction and by induction. An example of
charging by friction is a person sliding across a car seat;
in which a charge of as much as 2 to 5,000 volts can build
up. Charging by induction occurs when a person with
well insulated shoes stands near a highly charged object
1
and momentarily touches ground. Charges of the same
polarity are drained off, leaving the person highly
charged with the opposite polarity Static charges of ei-
ther type can cause damage, therefore, it is important to
use care when handling and testing electronic compo-
nents.
NOTE: To prevent damage by static electricity, DO
NOT touch the ECM connector pins.
FIGURE 1. ECM
TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION
The troubleshooting charts and function checks in this
section are designed to find a bad circuit or component
through logic based on the process of elimination. The
charts are prepared with the requirement that the vehicle
functioned correctly at the time of assembly and that
there are no multiple failures. The ECM does constant
testing on certain control functions. The ECM commu-
nicates the source of a malfunction with Diagnostic
Trouble Codes (DTC). The DTC’s are two digit num-
bers that can range from 12 to 99. When a malfunction is
found by the ECM, a DTC is set and the “Malfunction
Indicator” lamp is turned “ON”.
“Malfunction Indicator” Lamp (MIL)
This lamp is on the instrument cluster and has the fol-
lowing functions.
2
It lets the operator know that a problem has occurred
and that the vehicle must be taken for service as soon as
possible.
It displays Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC’s) kept by
the ECM which help the technician troubleshoot system
problems.
As a bulb and system check, the lamp will come “ON”
with the ignition switch ON and the engine not running.
When the engine is started, the lamp will turn “OFF.”
If the lamp remains “ON”, the system has found a prob-
lem. This problem is referred to as a ”current” DTC. If
the problem goes away, the lamp will go out after 10 se-
conds. In either condition a ”DTC” will remain in the
ECM.
When the lamp remains “ON” while the engine is run-
ning, or when there is a malfunction, the “On–Board
Diagnostic” (OBD) System Check must be done.
When a problem is not regular or constant, the “Mal-
function Indicator” lamp will turn “ON” for approxi-
mately ten (10) seconds and then will go turn “OFF”.
However, the diagnostic trouble code (DTC) will be
kept in the memory of the ECM until the DTC’s are
cleared (see DTC clearing in this section). An DTC that
is not constant can reset. If it is a problem that is not
constant a DTC Chart is not used. However you can use
the “Other Troubleshooting Checks” on the page facing
the troubleshooting chart for that DTC to help locate the
problem.
Reading Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
The Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) is used to com-
municate with the ECM. See FIGURE 2. The DLC is
installed on the bracket on top of the valve cover. It is
used in the assembly plant to receive information in
checking that the engine is operating correctly before it
leaves the plant. The DTC(s) kept in the ECM’s memory
can be read with a ”SCAN” tool connected to the DLC.
They can also be read by counting the number of flashes
of the “Malfunction Indicator” lamp when terminal “B”
of the DLC connector is connected to ground. The ter-
minal can be connected to ground at terminal “A” (ex-
ternal ECM ground).

DIAGNOSTIC
KEY
A = GROUND
B = FAULT ANALYSIS TERMINAL
M = SERIAL DATA FOR “SCAN” TOOL
FIGURE 2. DIAGNOSTIC LINK CONNECTOR
(DLC)
The ignition switch must be moved to the ON position,
with the engine not running, and terminals “A” and “B”
connected. At this point, the “Malfunction Indicator”
lamp will flash DTC 12 three times consecutively (see
FIGURE 3. The following is the flash sequence for
”12”: “long pause, flash, pause, flash–flash, long
pause,.flash, pause, flash.flash, long pause flash, pause,
flash–flash.” DTC 12 (which means no crankshaft rpm
signal) indicates that the ECM’s diagnostic system is
operating correctly at this time. If DTC 12 is not indi-
cated, a problem is in the diagnostic system itself.
Following the output of DTC 12, if additional codes are
stored, the “Malfunction Indicator” lamp will flash the
FLASH FLASH–FLASH
LONG PAUSE
PAUSE
LONG PAUSE
FIGURE 3. DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE 12 EXAMPLE
DTC three times. If more than one DTC has been stored
in the ECM’s memory, the DTC’s will be flashed start-
ing with the newest DTC set and finishing with the old-
est DTC set. Remember each DTC will be flashed three
times. When all DTC’s have been flashed the sequence
will start over again with DTC 12.
Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes
(DTC’s)
There are two ways to clear DTC’s, manually or with a
“SCAN” tool.
For the manual procedure do the following steps:
1. Jumper the DLC terminal “A” to “B”.
2. Turn the ignition key on (engine not running).
3. Push the throttle to above 80%.
The order of the above three steps is not important, as
long as all three items are present at the same time. (The
Malfunction Indicator lamp must not be flashing or
“ON” at this time. If the TP Sensor voltage does not go
high enough, then the DTC’s will not clear.)
NOTE: Disconnecting the battery will not clear DTC’s
on this ECM.
When using the second method, “SCAN” tool, install
the tool according to the operators manual of the tool.
Select clear DTC’s from the tools menu. This operation
electronically clears all ECM DTC’s.
After using either procedure, always check for DTC’s
again to see that the DTC’s are cleared.
3
 TABLE 1. ECM DIAGNOSTIC CODES AVAILABLE
CODE DESCRIPTION TURN ON “MALFUNCTION
INDICATOR” LAMP
14 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit – High Volts Yes
15 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit – Low Volts Yes
21 Throttle Position Sensor – High Volts Yes
22 Throttle Position Sensor – Low Volts Yes
31 Governor Circuit Malfunction Yes
33 MAP Sensor Circuit – High Volts Yes
34 MAP Sensor Circuit – Low Volts Yes
42 EST Circuit Malfunction Yes
51 ECM Internal Problem Yes

Field Service Mode

CAUTION
To prevent ECM damage, the key must be OFF when
disconnecting or reconnecting ECM power.
Diagnostic Mode
When the DLC terminal ”B” is connected to ground
with the ignition ON and the engine “OFF”, the system
will enter the Diagnostic Mode. In this mode the ECM
will:
1. Display a DTC 12 by flashing the “Malfunction Indi-
cator” lamp (indicating the system is operating correct-
ly).
2. Display any additional stored DTC’s by flashing the
“Malfunction Indicator” lamp. Each DTC will flash
three times, then DTC 12 will flash again.
3. The IAC valve moves to its fully extended position,
blocking the idle air passage. (This can be useful in
checking the minimum idle air setting.)
If the diagnostic terminal is connected to ground with
the engine running, the system will enter the Field Ser-
vice mode. This will cause the engine to run at approxi-
mately 1500 rpm and 8° before top dead center spark ad-
vance. While the system is in Field Service Mode, new
trouble codes can be kept in the ECM.
ECM Learning Ability
The ECM has a “learning” ability that lets it make
corrections for variations in the idle system to improve
idle performance. If the battery is disconnected for any
reason, the “learning” process resets and begins again.
To “teach” the vehicle, make sure that the engine is at
operating temperature. Drive the lift truck at part
throttle, with moderate acceleration, and idle until nor-
mal performance returns.

4
 TABLE 2. “SCAN” TOOL INFORMATION
Test under following conditions:
Idle speed, upper radiator hose hot, throttle closed, NEUTRAL, all accessories “OFF”
“SCAN” Position Units Displayed Values
Engine Speed rpm +100 rpm from
Idle Speed rpm ECM idle command (changes with temperature
Coolant Temp. °C /°F 85 to 100°C/180° to 212°F
Ignition Volts volts 12.5 to 14.5 v
MAP Volts/kPa 1 to 2 (depends on Vac. and BARO press.), 30–40 kPa
BARO Volts/kPa 1 to 2 (depends on BARO pressure), 98–102 kPa
Throttle Position volts .45 to 1.25 v
Throttle Angle 0 to 100% 0
Governor TPS 0 to 100% 0
Desired Governor TPS 0 to 100% 0
Governor Enable Yes/No Yes
Governor rpm Control Active/Not Active Not Active
Governor rpm Mode High rpm/Normal Normal
Idle Air Control Counts/Steps Between 5 and 50
rpm Overspeed Yes/No No
Fuel Trim Steps N/A
Injector Pulse Width MSec .8 to 3.0 mSEC
Spark Advance No. of Degrees Varies
Base Timing N/A N/A
Knock Signal Yes/No No
Knock Retard No. of Degrees 0 Degrees
Governor mph Control Active/Not Active Not Active
Vehicle Speed mph 0 mph
mph Overspeed Yes/No No
Low Oil Pressure Yes/No No
Power Steering Switch Normal/High Normal
Emergency Stop Active/Not Active Not Active
Lift Mode Active/Not Active Not Active
EEPROM ID number XXXX (varies with calibration) – 2201
Time From Start hrs., min., sec. 0:00:00 – 18:12:15

5
On–Board DIAGNOSTIC (OBD) System
Check
The On–Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check is a
troubleshooting chart to find a problem caused by a mal-
function in the electronic engine control system. It must
be the starting point for any troubleshooting.
The ”SCAN” data shown in TABLE 2 can be used for
comparison after doing the troubleshooting checks and
finding the on–board diagnostics working correctly
with no trouble codes shown. The data are an average of
display values from normally operating vehicles and
show a display of a normally operating system.
After the visual/physical inspection, the “On–Board
Diagnostic (OBD) System Check” is the starting point
for all troubleshooting procedures.
The correct procedure to find a problem is to follow
three basic steps.
1. Are the On–Board Diagnostics working? This is de-
termined by doing the “OBD System Check” Since this
is the starting point for the troubleshooting procedures ,
always begin here.
6
If the On–Board Diagnostics do not work, the “OBD
System Check” will not lead to a troubleshooting chart
to fix the problem. If the On–Board Diagnostics are
working correctly, go to the next step.
2. Is there a Diagnostic Trouble Code? If there is a DTC,
go directly to the DTC chart for that number. This will
determine if the fault is still there. If there is no DTC,
then;
3. “SCAN” Serial Data transmitted by the ECM. This
involves reading the information available on the Serial
Data Stream with one of the tools available for that pur-
pose. Information on these tools and the meaning of the
displays can be found in the operator’s manual of the
tool. Readings for a certain operating condition can be
found in TABLE 2.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on
the next page.
1. Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 12 means no rpm
reference pulses from the ignition module. This is cor-
rect when engine is not running
DOES “SCAN” TOOL DISPLAY ECM DATA? USE CHART A–2

YES NO

USE CHART A–2

COMPARE “SCAN” TOOL DATA WITH TYPICAL

VALUES SHOWN ON PAGE 5. ARE VALUES NORMAL
OR WITHIN RANGE?

SEE TROUBLESHOOTING SEE TROUBLESHOOTING –

CHARTS. POOR OPERATION

ON–BOARD DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM CHECK

7
 TROUBLESHOOTING CHARTS
GENERAL
The following troubleshooting charts are designed to
give an efficient method of fault analysis on the elec-
tronic engine controls.
WARNING
This troubleshooting requires the operation of the
engine for some of the tests. Make sure the tests are
done carefully to prevent injury:
• Put the lift truck on a level surface. Lower the
carriage and forks and apply the parking
brake. Make sure the lift truck can not move
and cause an injury during the tests. Use
blocks as necessary to prevent movement of
the lift truck.
• The fuel system and the engine must operate
correctly. Any problems or leaks in the fuel
system and the engine must be repaired before
doing troubleshooting.
• The fan and the drive belts can remove fingers
or cause other injuries. Be careful that your
hands and tools do not touch the moving fan or
the drive belts.
• The engine exhaust and other parts of the en-
gine are hot. Do not touch a hot surface and
cause a burn.
CAUTION
Electronic equipment can be damaged if trouble-
shooting and repairs are not done correctly. The fol-
lowing CAUTIONS must be followed when doing
troubleshooting or repairs on an engine with an
ECM:
• Always disconnect the battery negative cable
before disconnecting and removing any parts
except as described in TROUBLESHOOT-
ING.
8
• Never start the engine unless the battery is
correctly connected.
• Never disconnect the battery from any equip-
ment when the engine is running.
• Never disconnect the battery from the charg-
ing system when the engine is running.
• If the battery must be charged with a battery
charger, ALWAYS disconnect the battery
from the electrical system.
• Make sure that all electrical connections are
clean and have good electrical contact.
• Never connect or disconnect the wiring har-
ness at the ECM when the key switch is “ON”.
• Always disconnect the battery and the ECM
connectors if electric arc welding must be done
on the vehicle.
• If the engine compartment is cleaned with
steam, make sure that any water or steam is
not sent toward the ECM or its sensors. The
heat and steam can damage the electronic
components and cause corrosion in the electri-
cal connections.
• Use only the tools and test equipment de-
scribed in “TOOLS AND TEST EQUIP-
MENT” to prevent damage to good compo-
nents and to obtain correct test results.
• All voltage measurements must be made with
a digital voltmeter with a rating of 10 megohm
input impedance.
• When a test light is used in troubleshooting,
the test light must have less than 0.3 amps (300
milliamps) of maximum current flow. A test
for a correct test light is shown in FIGURE 4.
TOOLS AND TEST EQUIPMENT

The following tools are necessary for troubleshooting DC Amps

the system:
• Ohmmeter

• Digital voltmeter. The voltmeter must have a

minimum input impedance of 10–megohms. (A
digital voltmeter and ohmmeter are normally in-
cluded in a multi–meter test instrument.
TEST
LIGHT
• Tachometer with inductive trigger signal sensor.

• Test light that has a low current draw as described

in FIGURE 4.
• Vacuum pump with a gauge. This vacuum pump
is held and operated with the hand. The gauge
must be able to indicate a gauge pressure (vacu-
um) of 34 kPa [20 inches of mercury (20” Hg)].
(See the PRESSURE CONVERSION CHART at
the end of this section.)
• Spark tester. The spark tester is used to check the
secondary ignition. The spark tester is also called
an ST125 and creates a 25 kilovolt load on sec-
ondary ignition components.
– +
BATTERY
If the ammeter indicates less than 0.3 amps (300
milliamps), the test light can be used.
If the ammeter indicates more than 0.3 amps (300
milliamps), the test light can not be used
because it can cause damage to the electronic
components.
FIGURE 4. CURRENT FLOW TEST FOR A TEST
LIGHT

9
 CIRCUIT
BREAKER

5 AMP

CHART A–1
NO “MALFUNCTION INDICATOR” LAMP
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The ”Malfunction Indicator” lamp will be “ON” when the ignition is ON and engine is not running. Voltage from the
ignition switch is supplied to the light bulb. The Electronic Control Module (ECM) will control the lamp and turn it
”ON” by connecting it to ground through circuit AZ.

Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference Other Troubleshooting Checks:
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on
If engine runs correctly, check for the following:
the next page.
• Fault in the light bulb.
1. This test gives a ground circuit for the Malfunction In-
• Circuit AZ is open.
dicator Lamp circuit. If lamp works now, then the exter-
nal circuits are correct. • 5 ampere circuit breaker is no good. This will
cause no dash indicator lights, gauges, or seat belt
2. This tests circuits HD, HC, and JM for voltage. reminder.

3. Using a test light connected to Battery +, check each If Engine Cranks But Will Not Run:
of the system ground circuits to be sure there is a good • ECM Battery + fuse/circuit JY or HD or HC
ground. open.

4. If a fuse is open, remember to locate any short circuits • ECM ignition fuse/circuit JM/JN is open.
to ground or other high ampere causes on that circuit. • Poor connections to ECM.

10
 • IGNITION OFF.
DISCONNECT ECM CONNECTORS.
• IGNITION ON.
CONNECT TEST LIGHT TO GROUND
AND CIRCUIT HD, HC AND JM AT
CONNECTORS.
IS TEST LIGHT “ON” FOR ALL CIRCUITS?

REPAIR OPEN IN CIR-

CUITS THAT DID NOT
ENERGIZE TEST
LIGHT.

When repairs are complete, clear the codes from the ECM and check that the “Malfunction Indicator”
lamp does not indicate another problem.

CHART A–1 – NO “MALFUNCTION INDICATOR” LAMP

11
 CIRCUIT
BREAKER

5 AMP

CHART A–2
NO “SCAN” DATA, NO DTC 12, “MALFUNCTION INDICATOR” LAMP ON

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The ”Malfunction Indicator” lamp (MIL) will be “ON” when the ignition is ON and the engine is ”not running. Voltage
from the ignition switch is supplied to the light bulb. The ECM will control the light and turn it ”ON” by connecting it
to ground through circuit AZ to the ECM.

With the diagnostic terminal is connected to ground, the light will flash a DTC 12, followed by any trouble code(s) kept
in memory. A steady light means a short to ground in the light control circuit AZ, or an open in circuit HS.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference • If the ”SCAN” is working correctly and circuit
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on HZ is good, the ECM can be the cause for the
the next page. ”NO SCAN DATA” symptom.
2. This step will check for an open diagnostic circuit HS.
1. If there is a problem with the ECM that causes a
3. If the light turns ”OFF” after the ECM connector J2 is
”SCAN” tool to not read data from the ECM, then the disconnected, then circuit AZ has a short circuit to
ECM will not flash a DTC 12. ground.
• If DTC 12 does flash, be sure that the ”SCAN” 4. At this point, the ”Malfunction Indicator” lamp wir-
tool is working correctly on another vehicle. ing is good. If DTC 12 does not flash, replace the ECM.

12
 • CONNECT TERMINAL “A” TO TERMINAL “B” AT THE DLC.
DOES MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP FLASH DTC 12?

• REPAIR OPEN OR SHORT IN CIRCUIT

HZ. IF CIRCUIT HZ IS CORRECT,
THEN REPLACE ECM.

When repairs are complete, clear the codes from the ECM and check that the “Malfunction Indicator”
lamp does not indicate another problem.

CHART A–2 – NO “SCAN” DATA, NO DTC 12, “MALFUNCTION INDICATOR” LAMP ON

13
 CHART A–3
THE STARTER ROTATES THE ENGINE, ENGINE WILL NOT RUN (1 of 3)
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
Before using this chart, battery condition, engine cranking speed, and fuel quantity must be checked to make sure they
are correct.

Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on
the next page.
1. A ”Malfunction Indicator” Lamp ”ON” is a test to de-
termine if there is battery and ignition voltage at the
ECM.
• No “SCAN” data can be caused by an ECM prob-
lem, CHART A–2 will diagnose the ECM.
• If throttle or coolant sensors are not within these
ranges, the ECM can be using the wrong mode for
starting.
• The ”SCAN” tool will display RPM during
cranking if pulses are received at the ECM.
2. Because the Electronic Ignition (EI) System uses two
plugs and cables to complete the circuit of each coil,
leave the opposite spark plug cable connected. If RPM
was indicated during crank, the ignition module is re-
ceiving a crank signal, but ”No Spark” at this test indi-
cates the ignition module is not triggering the coil.
3. While cranking the engine, there must be no fuel
spray with the injector electrical connector discon-
nected. Replace the injector or seals if fuel sprays or
drips.
4. The test light will flash, indicating the ECM is con-
trolling the injector.
5. Fuel spray from the injector indicates that fuel is
available. However, the engine can be getting too much
fuel. No fuel spray from injector indicates a fault in the
fuel system or no ECM control of injector.

14
Other Troubleshooting Checks:
• Water or foreign material can cause a no start
condition during freezing weather. The engine
can start after approximately 5 minutes in a
heated shop.
• A MAP sensor voltage reading between .5 and
3.0 volts can cause a no start condition. Discon-
nect the MAP sensor. If the engine starts, replace
the MAP sensor. See MAP sensor test in RE-
PAIRS.
• If fuel pump fuse is damaged, test current draw of
pump motor in tank. If more than 5 to 6 amps, cor-
rect the circuit or replace the pump motor in the
tank.
15
 • IGNITION ON. IF MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP IS “OFF”, USE When repairs are complete,
CHART A–1. clear the codes from the ECM
• INSTALL “SCAN” TOOL. IF NOT DATA, USE CHART A–2 and check that the “Malfunc-
• CHECK THE FOLLOWING:
– TPS – IF OVER 2.5 V AT CLOSED THROTTLE, USE DTC 21 tion Indicator” lamp does not
– IF LESS THAN .2 V, USE DTC 22 indicate another problem.
– COOLANT TEMP. – IF BELOW –30°C, USE DTC 15
– RPM – IF NO RPM WHILE CRANKING, USE CHART A–3, PAGE 2 OF 3
– MAP – IF BELOW 3V, SEE “OTHER TROUBLESHOOTING CHECKS”

SPARK NO SPARK
ON ONE

REPLACE
USE CHART A–3 IGNITION
(Page 2 of 3) MODULE

8329A OR

• IGNITION “OFF”, INSTALL FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE. • CHECK FOR WET SPARK PLUGS,
• IGNITION “ON”. LOW FUEL PRESSURE – USE CHART
• CORRECT FUEL PRESSURE IS 62–90 KPA (9–13 PSI). A–7
IS IT? • SEE “OTHER TROUBLESHOOTING
CHECKS”, PAGE 14.

CHART A–3 – THE STARTER ROTATES THE ENGINE, ENGINE WILL NOT RUN (1 of 3)

16
 TO TACHOMETER

CHART A–3
THE STARTER ROTATES THE ENGINE, ENGINE WILL NOT RUN (2 of 3)
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
A magnetic crank sensor is used to determine the position of the engine crankshaft. The sensor is mounted in the block,
near a wheel with slots on the crankshaft. The rotation of the wheel creates a flux change in the sensor, producing a
voltage signal. The Ignition Control Module (ICM) processes this signal and creates the reference pulses needed by the
ECM to energize the correct coil at the correct time.
If the ”SCAN” tool did not indicate cranking RPM, and there is no spark at the plugs, the problem is in the Ignition
System or the power and ground supplies to the ICM.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference 4. This test will determine if the ICM is not energizing
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on the problem coil, or if the tested coil has a fault. This test
the next page. can also be performed by changing a known good coil.
1. The Electronic Ignition (EI) system uses two spark The secondary coil winding can be checked with a Digi-
plugs and cables to complete the circuit of each coil. The tal Volt Ohmmeter (DVOM). There will be 5,000 to
other spark plug cable in the circuit must be left con- 10,000 ohms across the coil towers. There will be no
nected to create a spark. continuity from either coil tower to ground.
2. This test will determine if the 12 volt supply and a 5. This tests continunity of the sensor, connections, and
good ground is available at the DIS ignition module.
wires.
3. This test will determine if the ignition module is not
making the reference pulse, or if the wiring or ECM 6. Normal voltage from the crank sensor is .8 to 1.4 volts
have a fault. Touching and removing a test light from (800 mV to 1400 mV) with a charged battery and engine
Battery + to circuit GY will make a reference pulse. If at room temperature. Minimum output voltage (slow
rpm is indicated, the ECM and wiring are good. cranking/low battery) can be as low as .3 volts (300mV).

17
 When repairs are complete, clear the
codes from the ECM and check that the
“Malfunction Indicator” lamp does not
indicate another problem.

TEST GROUND REPLACE

CIRCUIT KB. USE BAD
TEST LIGHT TO COIL
BATTERY +
IS LIGHT “ON”?.

CHART A–3 – THE STARTER ROTATES THE ENGINE, ENGINE WILL NOT RUN (2 of 3)

18
 CHART A–3
THE STARTER ROTATES THE ENGINE, ENGINE WILL NOT RUN (3 of 3)

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
Ignition voltage is supplied to the fuel injector on circuit JEA/JE. The injector will pulse (turn ”ON” and ”OFF”), when
the ECM closes and connects the injector driver to ground through circuit JBA/JB.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference 4. A short to voltage in circuit JBA/JB can damage the
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on ECM. Repair the short circuit and start the engine. If it
the next page. does not start, test from the beginning of this chart
1. This test determines if injector connector has ignition [CHART A–3 (3 of 3)]
voltage, and on only one terminal.
2. This tests for a short circuit in the electronic driver for
5. A bad ECM can cause damage to the injector.
the injector in the ECM.
3. A test light connected from ECM harness terminal
”J2–21” to ground will iluminate due to continuity 6. An injector that has lower than 1.6 ohms resistance
through the injector. can damage the ECM.

19
 When repairs are complete, clear the
codes from the ECM and check that the
“Malfunction Indicator” lamp does not
indicate another problem.

CHART A–3 – THE STARTER ROTATES THE ENGINE, ENGINE WILL NOT RUN (3 of 3)

20
 CHART A–5
FUEL PUMP RELAY CIRCUIT
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
When the ignition switch is turned ON, the ECM will activate the fuel pump relay with a 12 volt signal and run the fuel
pump. The fuel pump relay will operate as long as the engine is cranking or running if the ECM is receiving ignition
reference pulses. The ECM will stop the fuel pump relay signal two seconds after the ignition reference pulses stop.
This will also occur two seconds after the key is ON and the engine not started.
If the fuel pump relay or the 12 volt relay drive from the ECM fail, the fuel pump will receive electrical current through
the circuit for the oil pressure switch.
The fuel pump test terminal is near the relay in the engine compartment. When the engine is stopped, the pump can be
turned ”ON” by applying Battery + to the test terminal.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference 4. At this point, the fuel pump relay is operating correct-
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on ly. Test the parallel circuit through the oil pressure
the next page. switch.
5. If fuse was damaged, check the circuit for too much
1. The test light will connect to ground through the relay current useage (including fuel pump).
to the fuel pump.
Other Troubleshooting Checks:
• A fuel pump relay that does not work can cause
2. If pump does not run, it can be damaged or worn.
long cranking times. The extended crank period
is caused by the time necessary for oil pressure to
3. After the fuel pump relay is replaced, continue with reach the pressure required to close the oil pres-
the ”Oil Pressure Switch Test.” sure switch and turn ”ON” the fuel pump.

21
 When repairs are complete, clear the codes from the
ECM and check that the “Malfunction Indicator”
lamp does not indicate another problem.

• LET ENGINE RUN AT NORMAL TEMPERATURE AND OIL

PRESSURE
• DISCONNECT FUEL PUMP RELAY HARNESS CONNECTOR.
• ENGINE CONTINUES TO RUN?

CHART A–5 – FUEL PUMP RELAY CIRCUIT

22
 CHART A–7
FUEL SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (1 of 3)
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
When the ignition switch is turned ON, the ECM will activate the fuel pump relay with a 12 volt signal and run the fuel
pump. The fuel pump relay will operate as long as the engine is cranking or running if the ECM is receiving ignition
reference pulses. The ECM will stop the fuel pump relay signal two seconds after the ignition references stop. This will
also occur two seconds after the key was ON and the engine not started.
If the fuel pump relay or the 12 volt relay drive from the ECM fail, the fuel pump will receive electrical current through
the oil pressure switch circuit.
When the engine is stopped, the fuel pump can be turned ”ON” by applying Battery + to the fuel pump ”test” terminal.
This terminal is located near the pump relay.
The fuel pump delivers fuel to the TBI unit where the system pressure is controlled to 62 to 90 kPa (9 to 13 psi). Excess
fuel is returned to the fuel tank.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference 2. If engine does not run use CHART A–3
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on
3. This test checks the operation of the fuel pump check
the next page.
valve. A check valve that leaks will cause fuel in the
1. Check the fuel pressure while the pump is running. pressure line to drain back to the tank and cause long
Pressure will start to drop as soon as the pump stops be- start times. The amount of pressure is not important as
cause of an internal relief in the pressure regulator. long as some pressure is maintained.

23
Other Troubleshooting Checks: • Long cranking times before engine starts.

Fuel system pressure that is not correct can casue one of • Rough idle or low idle speed.
the following symptoms: • Engine miss, feels like ignition problem.
• Cranks, but will not start. • High fuel useage, loss of power, poor perfor-
• Starts, but will not continue to run. mance.

When repairs are complete, clear the

codes from the ECM and check that the
“Malfunction Indicator” lamp does not
indicate another problem.

CHART A–7 – FUEL SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (1 of 3)

24
 CHART A–7
FUEL SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (2 of 3)
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on
the next page.
1. Fuel pressure less than 62 kPa (9 psi) can cause sever-
al problems. It can cause hard starting in cold conditions
and poor performance. Low fuel pressure can also allow
the engine to run at idle or low speeds, but cause the en-
gine to run poorly or stall when more fuel is required
(such as accelerating or at high speed).
2. Causing a restriction in the fuel flow at the tank (as
shown) causes the fuel pump to develop its maximum
pressure. With the fuel pump running, pressure will in-
crease to more than 90 kPa (13 psi).
NOTE: Do not block the fuel return line completely
(outlet side of TBI assembly) as too much pressure can
damage the TBI pressure regulator.
3. This test determines if the high fuel pressure is caused
by a restriction in the fuel return line, or a problem with
the pressure regulator.
4. If pressure is correct at idle, yet becomes lower as the
engine is accelerated, then repair the restriction in fuel
feed line. If there is no restriction, replace the fuel pump.
5. Wrong fuel pump (too much capacity) can also cause
high pressure.
6. Check that the shut–off valves are open when fin-
ished.
25
 When repairs are complete, clear the
codes from the ECM and check that the
“Malfunction Indicator” lamp does not
indicate another problem.

CHART A–7 – FUEL SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (2 of 3)

26
 CHART A–7 – FUEL SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (3 of 3)

FUEL PRESSURE CHECK; 2. Connect fuel pressure gauge.

Tools Required: Fuel Pressure Gauge 3. Energize fuel pump.

WARNING 4. Compare fuel pressure to specifications.

A small amount of fuel may be released when con-
necting the fuel pressure gauge. To prevent a fire or 5. Disconnect power supply for the fuel pump.
personal injury, put a shop towel near the fuel pres-
sure port fitting before connecting the gauge. Clean 6. Disconnect fuel pressure gage.
any fuel that leaks out. Put the towel in approved
container when connection is completed. 7. Replace the cap for the pressure gauge port.

1. Clean any dirt or grease from the cap for the pressure 8. Turn the ignition switch ON and OFF twice, waiting
gauge port, then remove it. ten seconds between cycles, and check for fuel leaks.

27
 DTC 14
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT
(HIGH TEMPERATURE INDICATED)
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor uses a thermistor to control the signal voltage to the ECM. The ECM
applies a reference voltage on circuit GQ to the sensor. When the engine is cold, the sensor (thermistor) resistance is
high. The ECM will then sense a high signal voltage.

As the engine warms up, the sensor resistance decreases and the voltage drops. The ECM ”reads” this voltage as a
temperature.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference • A DTC 14 will occur if circuit GQ has a short cir-
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on cuit to ground.
the next page.
• Use chart on facing page to test the accuracy of
1. Checks to see if DTC 14 was set as result of current the sensor.
failure or intermittent condition.
• DTC 14 will set if: • If DTC 14 is not constant, see TROUBLE-
SHOOTING – POOR OPERATION.
Signal voltage indicates a coolant temperature
above 135°C (275°F) for 3 seconds.
ECT SENSOR – TEMP. vs. RESISTANCE
2. This test causes the conditions for a DTC 15. If the
ECM sees the open circuit (high voltage) and displays a °C °F Ohms
low temperature, the ECM and wiring are correct. 100 212 177

Other Troubleshooting Checks: 70 158 467

• After the engine is started, the temperature will 40 104 1459

increase steadily to about 80°C (180°F), then re- 20 68 3520
main there when the thermostat opens. 5 41 7280
• If the engine has been allowed to cool to an ambi- –10 14 16,180
ent temperature (overnight), the coolant reading
–20 –4 28,680
on the “SCAN” tool will be that ambient temper-
ature. –40 –40 100,700

28

DOES “SCAN” TOOL SHOW COOLANT
TEMPERATURE OF 135°C (275°F) OR
HIGHER?
When repairs are complete, clear the codes from
the ECM and check that the “Malfunction Indicator”
lamp does not indicate another problem.

• DISCONNECT SENSOR. DTC 14 IS NOT CONSTANT. IF NO OTHER DTC’S

• “SCAN” TOOL WILL SHOW ARE IN MEMORY, SEE “OTHER TROUBLE-
TEMPERATURE BELOW –30°C (–22°F). SHOOTING CHECKS” ON PREVIOUS PAGE.
DOES IT?

CIRCUIT GQ HAS A SHORT TO GROUND

OR
CIRCUIT GQ HAS A SHORT TO CIRCUIT HU/HR
OR
DAMAGED ECM.

DTC 14 – ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT

(HIGH TEMPERATURE INDICATED)

29
 DTC 15
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT
(LOW TEMPERATURE INDICATED)
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor uses a thermistor to control the signal voltage to the ECM. The ECM
applies a reference voltage on circuit GQ to the sensor. When the engine is cold, the sensor (thermistor) resistance is
high. The ECM will then sense a high signal voltage.
As the engine warms up, the sensor resistance decreases and the voltage drops. The ECM ”reads” this voltage as a
temperature.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference on the “SCAN” tool will be that ambient temper-
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on ature.
the next page. • A DTC 15 occurs if circuit GQ, GR, or HU is
1. Checks that DTC 15 was set by a current failure or a open.
condition that is not constant. • If circuit GR is open, DTC 33 and DTC 15 can
• DTC 15 will set if: both set.
Signal voltage indicates a coolant temperature • Use the chart to test the accuracy of the sensor.
below –30°C (–22°F) after engine runs for 120
• If DTC 15 is not constant, see TROUBLE-
seconds.
SHOOTING – POOR OPERATION
2. This test causes the conditions for a DTC 14. If the
ECM sees a circuit to ground (low voltage) and displays ECT SENSOR – TEMP. vs. RESISTANCE
a high temperature, the ECM and wiring are correct.
°C °F Ohms
3. This test will determine if there is a wiring problem or 100 212 177
a damaged ECM. If circuit GR is open, there can also be 70 158 467
a DTC 33 stored.
40 104 1459
Other Troubleshooting Checks: 20 68 3520
• After the engine is started, the temperature will 5 41 7280
increase to approximately 80°C (180°F), then be-
–10 14 16,180
come stable when the thermostat opens.
–20 –4 28,680
• If the engine has been allowed to cool to an ambi-
ent temperature (overnight), the coolant reading –40 –40 100,700

30
 When repairs are complete, clear the codes
from the ECM and check that the “Malfunction
Indicator” lamp does not indicate another prob-
lem.

DTC 15 IS NOT CONSTANT. IF NO OTHER DTC’S

ARE IN MEMORY, SEE “OTHER TROUBLE-
SHOOTING CHECKS” ON PREVIOUS PAGE.

DTC 15 – ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT

(LOW TEMPERATURE INDICATED)

31
 DTC 21
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT (SIGNAL VOLTAGE HIGH)
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The Throttle Position (TP) Sensor makes a voltage signal that changes with the position of the throttle plate. The signal
voltage will vary from less than 1.25 volts at idle to approximately 4.5 volts at Wide Open Throttle (WOT).
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on
the next page.
1. Checks to see if DTC 21 was caused by current failure
or a condition that is not constant.
• DTC 21 will set if:
Signal voltage above 3.9 volts,
MAP reading below 65 kPa,
rpm less than 1750,
All these conditions for 5 seconds,
• OR
TP volts above approximately 4.8 volts at any
time.
2. This test causes the conditions for a DTC 22. If the
ECM sees the open circuit (low voltage) and displays a
low voltage, the ECM and circuit GU are correct.
32
3. This test will determine if there is a damaged TP Sen-
sor, damaged ECM or an open circuit HV.
Other Troubleshooting Checks:
• A ”SCAN” tool displays throttle position in volts.
Closed throttle voltage will be less than 1.25
volts. TP Sensor voltage will increase at a steady
rate as the throttle is move to Wide Open Throttle
(WOT).
• Check that the circuit does not have a short and a
voltage higher than 5.0 volts by testing it with a
voltmeter to ground.
• A DTC 21 will occur if circuit HV is open, or cir-
cuit GU has a short to voltage or circuit GT or
HA.
• If DTC 21 is not constant, see TROUBLE-
SHOOTING – POOR OPERATION.
 When repairs are complete, clear the codes from
the ECM and check that the “Malfunction Indicator”
lamp does not indicate another problem.

DTC 21 IS NOT CONSTANT. IF NO OTHER DTC‘S

ARE IN MEMORY, SEE OTHER TROUBLESHOOT-
ING CHECKS ON PREVIOUS PAGE.

CIRCUIT GU HAS A SHORT TO VOLTAGE

OR
ECM IS DAMAGED.

DTC 21 – THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT (SIGNAL VOLTAGE HIGH)

33
 DTC 22
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT (SIGNAL VOLTAGE LOW)

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The Throttle Position (TP) Sensor makes a voltage signal that changes with the position of the throttle plate. The signal
voltage will vary from less than 1.25 volts at idle to about 4.5 volts at Wide Open Throttle (WOT).
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference 3. This test will determine if there is a damaged TP Sen-
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on sor, damaged ECM or an open circuit HV.
the next page.
Other Troubleshooting Checks:
1. Checks to see if DTC 22 was caused by a current fail-
• A ”SCAN” tool displays throttle position in volts.
ure or a condition that is not constant.
Closed throttle voltage will be less than 1.25
• DTC 22 will set if: volts. TP Sensor voltage will increase at a steady
Signal voltage below .2 volts (200mV), rate as the throttle is move to Wide Open Throttle
Engine is running. (WOT).

2. This test causes the conditions for a DTC 21. If the • A DTC 22 will occur if circuit GT or GU is open
ECM see the jumper in the circuit (high voltage) and dis- or connected to ground.
plays over 4.0 volts, the ECM and circuits GU/GT are • If DTC 22 is not constant, see TROUBLE-
correct. SHOOTING – POOR OPERATION.

34
 When repairs are complete, clear the codes from
the ECM and check that the “Malfunction Indica-
tor” lamp does not indicate another problem.

DTC 22 IS NOT CONSTANT. IF NO OTHER DTC‘S

ARE IN MEMORY, SEE “OTHER TROUBLE–
SHOOTING CHECKS” ON PREVIOUS PAGE.

DTC 22 – THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT (SIGNAL VOLTAGE LOW)

35
 GE

DTC 31
ENGINE GOVERNOR CIRCUIT

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The ECM sends a controlled signal pulse to the governor control module (circuit JR) to drive the governor motor.
Depending on the need of the engine for the governor, the module translates the ECM data into the correct value of
D.C. current (circuits JP and JQ) to the motor. This current causes the motor to limit engine speed by loosening the
throttle cable. The system is capable of reducing the throttle back to near idle position.
DTC 31 will set if:
• the ECM is commanding near 100% authority,
A DTC 31 will find a damaged ECM, governor module, motor, linkage, or wiring. If DTC 31 is set, the ECM will limit
engine RPM’s by momentarily reducing fuel (at a slightly higher RPM’s than governor calibration).
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference 3. This test requires complete governor control to deter-
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on mine if the ECM or the governor system has a fault. The
the next page. throttle plate must not open during this test.
1. Checks to see if the governor module has supply volt-
age with which to operate. Other Troubleshooting Checks:

2. Applying Battery + to the motor will not let the • A ”SCAN” tool displays governor TPS. Watch
throttle plate open. DO NOT hold current to the motor this value as the engine rpm increases beyond the
for longer than 30 seconds, as the motor can be dam- governor limits. This test will allow you to see the
aged. ECM’s contrtol try to limit engine speed.

36
MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS A DTC 31 BEFORE When repairs are complete, clear the
USING THIS CHART. IF THERE IS NO DTC 31, codes from the ECM and check that the
SEE TROUBLESHOOTING – POOR OPERATION. “Malfunction Indicator” lamp does not in-
dicate another problem.

DTC 22 – ENGINE GOVERNOR CIRCUIT

37
 DTC 33
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR CIRCUIT
(SIGNAL VOLTAGE HIGH – LOW VACUUM)

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor responds to changes in manifold pressure (vacuum). The ECM re-
ceives this information as a signal voltage that will vary from about 1 to 1.5 volts at closed throttle idle, to 4 to 4.5 volts
at wide open throttle (low vacuum). If the MAP sensor fails, the ECM will use a fixed MAP value and use the Throttle
Position (TP) Sensor to control fuel delivery.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference Other Troubleshooting Checks:
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on
the next page. • With the ignition ON and the engine stopped, the
manifold pressure is equal to atmospheric pres-
1. This step will determine if DTC 33 is casued by a cur- sure and the signal voltage will be high. This in-
rent failure or a condition that is not constant. formation is used by the ECM as an indication of
• A DTC 33 will set if: vehicle altitude and is referred to as BARO.
Comparison of this BARO reading with a known
MAP signal is more than 90 kPa (low manifold
good vehicle with the same type sensor is a good
vacuum),
way to check accuracy of a sensor. Correct read-
TP Sensor less than 5%, ings will be within .4 volt of each other.
These conditions for a time longer than 10 se-
conds. • A DTC 33 occurs if either circuit GS is open, or if
circuit HY has a short to voltage or to circuit HA
2. This step causes the conditions for a DTC 34. If the or GT.
ECM sees the change, the ECM and circuits HA and HY
are good. • If GR is open, DTC 33 and DTC 15 will set.

3. See SYSTEM TEST CHARTS for complete test of • If DTC 33 is not constant, see TROUBLE-
MAP sensor. SHOOTING – POOR OPERATION.

38
 DTC 33 IS NOT CONSTANT. IF NO OTHER
DTC‘S ARE IN MEMORY, SEE OTHER
TROUBLESHOOTING CHECKS ON PRE-
VIOUS PAGE.

• TEST SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT GS, GB/GR

WITH A TEST LIGHT TO BATTERY +
• TEST LIGHT IS “ON”.

When repairs are complete, clear the codes from the ECM and check that the “Malfunction
Indicator” lamp does not indicate another problem.

DTC 33 – MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR CIRCUIT

(SIGNAL VOLTAGE HIGH – LOW VACUUM)

39
 DTC 34
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR CIRCUIT
(SIGNAL VOLTAGE LOW – HIGH VACUUM)

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor responds to changes in manifold pressure (vacuum). The ECM re-
ceives this information as a signal voltage that will change from approximately 1 to 1.5 volts at closed throttle idle, to 4
to 4.5 volts at wide open throttle (low vacuum). If the MAP sensor fails, the ECM will substitute a fixed MAP value and
use the Throttle Position (TP) Sensor to control fuel delivery.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference than 4.0 volts. This would indicate that the ECM and cir-
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on cuit HY are good.
the next page.
Other Troubleshooting Checks:
1. This step will determine if DTC 34 is the result of a
• With the ignition ON and the engine stopped, the
current failure or an intermittent condition.
manifold pressure is equal to atmospheric pres-
• A DTC 34 will set if: sure and the signal voltage will be high. This in-
MAP signal is less than 14 kPa (high manifold formation is used by the ECM as an indication of
vacuum), vehicle altitude and is referred to as BARO.
rpm less than 1200 or TP Sensor more than 15%. Comparison of this BARO reading with a known
good vehicle with the same type sensor is a good
AND way to check accuracy of a sensor. Correct read-
These conditions for a time longer than .2 se- ings will be within .4 volt of each other.
conds.
• A DTC 34 occurs if either circuit HA or HY is
2. This step causes the conditions for a DTC 34. If the open, or has a short circuit to ground.
ECM sees the change, the ECM and circuits HA and HY • If HA or HY has a short circuit to ground, both
are good. DTC 34 and DTC 22 can set.
3. The ”SCAN” tool does not display 12 volts. What is • If DTC 34 is not constant, see TROUBLE-
important is that the ECM sees that the voltage is more SHOOTING – POOR OPERATION.

40
 DTC 34 IS NOT CONSTANT. IF NO OTHER
DTC‘S ARE IN MEMORY, SEE OTHER
TROUBLESHOOTING CHECKS ON PRE-
VIOUS PAGE.
“SCAN” TOOL READS A VOLTAGE OF 4.7 VOLTS OR
MORE.
DOES IT?

When repairs are complete, clear the codes from the ECM and check that the “Malfunction
Indicator” lamp does not indicate another problem.

DTC 34 – MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR CIRCUIT

(SIGNAL VOLTAGE LOW – HIGH VACUUM)

41
 2
3

1
4

DTC 42
IGNITION CONTROL (IC) CIRCUIT

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The Ignition Control Module (ICM) sends a reference signal to the ECM when the engine is cranking or running.
While the engine speed is under 400 rpm, the ICM module controls the ignition timing. When the system is running on
the ICM (no voltage on the bypass line), the ICM connects the IC signal to ground. The ECM expects to sense no
voltage on the Ignition Control (IC) line during this condition. If it senses a voltage, it sets DTC 42 and will not enter
the IC mode.

When the engine speed exceeds 400 rpm, the ECM applies 5 volts to the bypass line to switch the timing to ECM
control (IC). If the bypass line is open or connected to ground, once the rpm for Ignition Control is reached, the ICM
will not switch to IC mode. This results in no IC voltage changes and the setting of DTC 42. If the IC line has a ground,
the ICM will switch to IC, but because the line has a ground, there will be no IC signal. A DTC 42 will set.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference 2. Checks for a normal IC ground path through the ICM.
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on An IC circuit GWwith a short circuit to ground, will also
the next page. read less than 500 ohms, but this will be checked later.

1. DTC 42 means the ECM has sensed an open or short 3. As the test light voltage contacts circuit GZ, the mod-
circuit to ground in the IC or bypass circuits. This test ule switches, causing the ohmmeter to ”overrange” if
confirms DTC 42 and that the fault causing the code is the meter is in the 1000–2000 ohms position. Selecting
present. the 10– 20,000 ohms position will indicate a reading

42
above 5000 ohms. The important thing is that the mod-
ule ”switched.”
4. The module did not switch and this step checks for:
• IC circuit GW has a short circuit to ground.
• Bypass circuit GZ open.
• Bad ICM connection or module.
5. Confirms that DTC 42 is a bad ECM and not a fault in
circuit GW or GZ.
Other Troubleshooting Checks:
• The ”SCAN” tool can not find a DTC 42 prob-
lem.
• If DTC 42 is not constant, see TROUBLE-
SHOOTING – POOR OPERATION.

43
 When repairs are complete, clear the codes
from the ECM and check that the “Malfunction
Indicator” lamp does not indicate another
problem.

DTC 42 IS NOT CONSTANT. SEE

“OTHER TROUBLESHOOTING
CHECKS” ON PREVIOUS PAGE.

DTC 42 IS NOT CONSTANT.

SEE “OTHER TROUBLE–
SHOOTING CHECKS” ON
PREVIOUS PAGE.

DTC 42 – IGNITION CONTROL (IC) CIRCUIT

44
 DTC 51
EEPROM OR ECM FAILURE

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The Electronic Control Module (ECM) does an internal check. This check, if it fails, will set a DTC 51. The internal
program calibration causes a DTC 51.
Other Troubleshooting Checks: • If DTC 51 is not constant, see TORUBLE-
• The ”SCAN” tool can not help find a DTC 51 SHOOTING – POOR OPERATION.
problem.

CHECK THAT ALL CONNECTIONS AT THE ECM ARE CORRECT.

CLEAR THE MEMORY AND CHECK AGAIN FOR DTC 51. IF DTC 51
APPEARS AGAIN, REPLACE THE ECM.

DTC 51 – EEPROM OR ECM FAILURE

45
 TROUBLESHOOTING, POOR OPERATION
NOTE: Before using the following information, make
sure you have done the ON–BOARD DIAGNOSTIC
(OBD) System Check and found that:
1. The ECM and “Malfunction Indicator” Lamp are
operating correctly.
2. There are no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) or
there is a DTC but no “Malfunction Indicator”
Lamp.
GENERAL
Make sure you have done the “SYSTEM CHECK” be-
fore this Troubleshooting section is used. Make sure the
problem is correctly described. Check the indicated
items in this Troubleshooting section under the de-
scribed problem. If the starter will crank the engine but
the engine will not start, see Troubleshooting Chart
A–3.
Make A Careful Visual Check
This check is very important because some problems
can be corrected without doing a fault analysis. Check
the following items:
• ground connections for the ECM are clean and
tight.
• vacuum hoses for correct connections, damaged
hoses.
• vacuum leaks at the mount for the TBI and the in-
take manifold.
• condition of the ignition wires for cracks, bad
connections, and indications of electric arcs.
• wires and connectors for damage and bad con-
nections.
FAULT: Codes Or Performance That Is
Not Regular
NOTE: DO NOT use the Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) charts for problems that are not constant. The
fault must be present to locate the problem. If a fault is
not constant, use of DTC charts can cause the replace-
ment of good parts.
46
Definition: A problem that does not cause the “Mal-
function Indicator” Lamp to illuminate and a code is not
kept in the ECM.
Check:
• wires and connectors for damage and bad con-
nections.
• operation of the lift truck with a “SCAN” tool
connected. The “SCAN” tool will normally indi-
cate a trouble code.
• electrical noise cause by a relay, solenoid or
switch. This problem will occur when the faulty
component is operated.
• installation of lights, radios or other electrical
equipment by the operator that causes the prob-
lem.
• sensor wires are too close to the high voltage igni-
tion system wires. Wire for circuit HX from ECM
to Ignition Control Module (ICM) must be a good
ground.
• Ignition secondary has a short to ground.
• Circuit AZ “Malfunction Indicator” Lamp or cir-
cuit HS (diagnostic ”test” terminal) has a short
circuit to ground.
FAULT: Loss Of Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) Memory
To check, disconnect Throttle Position (TP) sensor and
run engine at idle speed until “Malfunction Indicator”
Lamp comes ”ON.” DTC 21 will be kept in memory
when the ignition is turned OFF for at least 10 seconds.
If not, the ECM is bad.
FAULT: Engine Quits While Driving
Check for a failure of the injector driver in ECM. If in-
jector driver fails, replace the ECM.
Additional Checks
If problem has not been found, see SYSTEM TEST
CHARTS.
FAULT: Engine Is Difficult To Start
Definition: The starter cranks the engine correctly, but
the engine is difficult to start, or the engine stops im-
mediately after it starts.
Check:
Make a “CAREFUL VISUAL CHECK” as described in
the earlier paragraphs. Make sure the operator is using
the correct starting procedure.
SENSORS
• Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor. Us-
ing a ”SCAN” tool, compare coolant temperature
with ambient temperature when engine is cold. If
coolant temperature reading is 5 degrees greater
than or less than ambient air temperature on a
cold engine, check resistance in the ECT sensor
circuit or sensor itself. Compare ECT resistance
value to the charts in DTC 14/15.
• MAP sensor.
• Throttle Position (TP) sensor for binding or a
high TP voltage with the throttle closed (will read
between .33 and 1.33 volts).
FUEL SYSTEM
• Fuel pump relay operation – pump must turn
”ON” for 2 seconds when ignition is turned ON.
Use CHART A–5.
• Fuel pressure, use CHART A–7.
• Dirty fuel.
• Injector driver circuit. Disconnect injector har-
ness connector at the injector. Connect 12 volt
test light between the harness terminal of injector
connector and check the light while cranking. If
test light fails to blink at connector, it is a faulty
injector drive circuit harness, connector or termi-
nal.
• Injector resistance. Measure resistance of injec-
tor. Nominal resistance of injector is 1.6 ohms or
more at 20°C (68°F). Resistance will increase at
higher temperatures.
• A bad check valve for the fuel pump will allow
the fuel in the lines to drain back to the tank after
engine is stopped. To check for this condition,
perform ”Fuel System Troubleshooting,”
CHART A–7.
IGNITION SYSTEM
• Correct ignition voltage output with spark tester.
• Spark plugs: dirty, cracks, wear, wrong gap,
burned electrodes.
• Moisture, dust, cracks, burns.
• Wires or cables are damaged or have a short.
• Connections at Ignition Control Module (ICM)
are loose.
• Bad ECM and ignition grounds.
• Engine misses or quits under under load or at idle.
See SYSTEM TEST CHARTS.
• If engine starts, but then immediately stalls, re-
move the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor and
check for improper resistance or faulty connec-
tions. Refer to CHART A–3
• Circuit GW (Ignition Control) for short to
ground.
• IAC operation.
FAULT: Variation In Engine Power When
The Throttle Is Held Steady
Definition: Engine power variation under steady
throttle, feels like the vehicle speeds up and slows down
with no change in the accelerator pedal.
Check:
Make a “CAREFUL VISUAL CHECK” as described in
the earlier paragraphs.
• ECM grounds for being clean, tight and in their
proper location.
• Vacuum lines for restrictions or leaks.
• Alternator output voltage. Repair if less than 9 or
more than 16 volts.
• Governor cables.
SENSORS
• Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor. The
MAP Sensor must change quickly at different
throttle positions. Check the MAP Sensor vacu-
um line for restrictions. The ECM will respond to
any MAP signal and can change the amount of
fuel sent to the engine, causing operating prob-
lems. Also use the SYSTEM TEST CHARTS to
test the MAP sensor.
47
 IGNITION SYSTEM
• For correct ignition voltage output using spark
tester.
• Spark plugs. Remove spark plugs, check for wet
plugs, cracks, wear, wrong gap, burned or dirty
electrodes or insulators. Repair or replace as nec-
essary. Also, check spark plug cables.
FUEL SYSTEM
To check if the condition is caused by a rich or lean sys-
tem, test the vehicle under the same conditions that the
symptom occurs as described by the customer.
• Fuel pressure while condition exists. Use
CHART A–7.
• In–line fuel filter. Replace if dirty.
• Fuel injector.
FAULT: Decreased Engine Power
Definition: Engine delivers less than expected power.
Little or no increase in speed when accelerator pedal is
pushed down part way.
Check:
Make a “CAREFUL VISUAL CHECK” as described in
the earlier paragraphs.
• Remove air filter and check for dirt or other re-
strictions. Replace as necessary.
• ECM grounds for being clean, tight and in their
correct locations. See ECM wiring diagrams at
the end of this section.
• Alternator output voltage. Repair if less than 9 or
more than 16 volts.
• Exhaust system for restriction or damage.
ENGINE
• Engine valve timing and compression.
• Engine for correct or worn camshaft.
IGNITION SYSTEM
• For correct operation of Ignition Control (IC).
• Secondary voltage.
FUEL SYSTEM
• Restriction in fuel filter.
• Dirty fuel.
48
• Fuel pressure, use CHART A–7.
• Low fuel pressure after a cold start or during ac-
celeration. If fuel pressure drops below 62 kPa (9
bad fuel pump or a restriction in the fuel system.
GOVERNOR SYSTEM
• Throttle adjustment.
• Governor motor.
FAULT: “Detonation”
Definition: The engine makes sharp metallic knocking
sounds that change when the throttle position is
changed. This condition is normally worse during accel-
eration. The air and fuel mixture is exploding in the cyl-
inder instead of burning evenly.
Check:
Make a “CAREFUL VISUAL CHECK” as described in
the earlier paragraphs.
If scan tool readings are normal (see facing page of
”On–Board Diagnostic [OBD] System Check”) and
there are no engine mechanical faults, fill fuel tank with
a known good grade of gasoline that has a minimum oc-
tane rating of 87 to 89 and check vehicle performance.
Check:
IGNITION SYSTEM
• Spark plugs for correct heat range.
• Ignition wires and cables for shorts or damaged
insulation.
ENGINE
• For oil in the combustion chamber. Valve oil seals
for leaking.
• Combustion chambers for excessive carbon build
up. Remove carbon with top engine cleaner using
the instructions on can.
• Combustion chamber pressure by doing a com-
pression test.
• Basic engine parts such as cam, head, pistons are
not correct.
COOLING SYSTEM
• Problems from engine running too hot:. – Low
engine coolant level. – Loose water pump belt. –
Restriction in air flow to radiator, or restriction in
water flow through radiator. Correct coolant
solution.
 FUEL SYSTEM
To check if the condition is caused by a rich or lean sys-
tem, test the vehicle under the same conditions that the
symptom occurs as described by the customer.
• Fuel pressure while condition exists. Use
CHART A–7.
FAULT: Engine Momentarily Does Not
Increase Power When Throttle Changes
Definition: The engine momentarily does not increase
power when the throttle is opened further. The engine
can stop when the throttle is opened rapidly from idle.
Make a “CAREFUL VISUAL CHECK” as described in
the earlier paragraphs.
Check:
• Engine thermostat operates correctly and at the
correct heat range.
• Alternator output voltage. Repair if less than 9 or
more than 16 volts.
SENSORS
• Throttle Position (TP) sensor. Check TP sensor
for correct operation. Voltage will increase even-
ly as throttle is moved toward Wide Open
Throttle (WOT).
• MAP sensor output.
IGNITION SYSTEM
• Dirty spark plugs or damaged secondary cables.
• Ignition system ground, circuit HX.
FUEL SYSTEM
• Fuel pressure, use CHART A–7.
• Dirty fuel.
• Low fuel pressure after a cold start or during ac-
celeration. If fuel pressure drops below 62 kPa (9
psi), there can be a bad fuel pump or a restriction
in the fuel system.
GOVERNOR SYSTEM
• Throttle cables.
• Governor motor.
FAULT: One Or More Cylinders Do Not
Operate Correctly. The Engine Does Not
Idle Correctly.
Definition: The operation of one cylinder is not regular
and the problem increases when the engine load in-
creases. Problem normally does not occur above 1500
rpm. The engine has a rough idle or has a large variation
in idle speed.
Make a “CAREFUL VISUAL CHECK” as described in
the earlier paragraphs.
Check:
IGNITION SYSTEM
• Start engine, let engine become steady, then dis-
connect IAC motor. Remove one spark plug
cable at a time, using pliers with insulation. Be
sure to connect the cable that was removed to
ground while testing.
• If there is a decrease in rpm on all cylinders (equal
to within 50 rpm), go to FAULT for ”Rough Idle
or Engine Stalls During Idle”. Connect IAC
valve.
• If there is no decrease in rpm on one or more cyl-
inders, check for spark on the cylinder(s) using an
oscilloscope or spark tester. Check one spark
plug cable at a time and connect the companion
cylinder spark plug cable (plug end) to a good
ground, away from any electronic components. If
no spark, see SYSTEM TEST CAHRTS. If there
is a spark, remove spark plug(s) in these cylinders
and check for:
• Cracks in the insulator, wrong gap, burned elec-
trodes or wear.
• Spark plug cables by connecting ohmmeter to
ends of each cable in question. If meter reads over
30,000 ohms, replace cable(s).
ADDITIONAL CHECKS
For Electromagnetic Interference (EMI). An engine that
misses can be caused by EMI on the reference circuit.
EMI can be found by monitoring engine rpm with a
“SCAN” tool. A sudden increase in rpm with little
change in actual engine rpm change, indicates EMI is
present. If the problem exists, check routing of second-
ary wires, check the ground circuit.
Intake and exhaust manifold passage for restrictions.
49
 ENGINE
• Do a cylinder compression check. If compression
is low, repair as necessary.
• Remove rocker cover. Check for bent push rods,
worn rocker arms, broken valve springs, worn
camshaft lobes and valve timing. Repair as nec-
essary.
FUEL SYSTEM
• Dirty fuel filter, low fuel pressure. Use CHART
A–7.
• Dirty fuel.
FAULT: Rough Idle Or Engine Stalls
During Idle
Definition: Engine has a rough idle speed or has a large
variation in idle speed. The engine stops running during
idle.
Make a “CAREFUL VISUAL CHECK” as described in
the earlier paragraphs.
Checks:
• For vacuum leaks.
• ECM ground connections for being clean and.
See ECM wiring diagrams.
• For broken engine mounts.
• Alternator output voltage. Repair if less than 9 or
more than 16 volts.
IGNITION SYSTEM
• For correct ignition voltage output using spark
tester (ST–125) or equivalent.
• Spark plugs. Remove spark plugs, check for wet
or dirty plugs, cracks, wear, wrong gap, damaged
electrodes or insulators. Repair or replace as nec-
essary. Also, check spark plug wires.
• Spark plug wires by connecting ohmmeter to
ends of each cable in question. If meter reads over
30,000 ohms, replace cable(s).
ENGINE
• Do a cylinder compression check. See the engine
Service Manual.
• For correct camshaft or weak valve springs.
50
OTHER CHECKS
• MAP sensor output.
• Throttle linkage for smooth operation.
• IAC operation.
• PCV valve for correct operation.
FAULT: Fuel Usage Too High
Definition: Fuel use is higher than expected or has in-
creased during later operation.
Make a “CAREFUL VISUAL CHECK” as described in
the earlier paragraphs.
Check:
• Vacuum hoses for damage, restriction or correct
connections.
• Check operator’s methods of operation. Are tires
at the correct pressure? Are loads more than ca-
pacity?
• Check air filter for dirt or other restriction.
• Check for fuel leaks.
IGNITION SYSTEM
• Spark plugs. Remove spark plugs, check for wet
or dirty plugs, cracks, wear, wrong gap, damaged
electrodes or insulators. Repair or replace as nec-
essary. Also, check spark plug wires.
COOLING SYSTEM
• Engine coolant level.
• Engine thermostat has a fault (always open) or for
wrong heat range. See Engine Service Manual.
ENGINE
• Compression. See Engine Service Manual.
OTHER CHECKS
• For exhaust system restriction.
• Air intake system and crankcase for air leaks.
FAULT: “Dieseling”
Definition: Engine continues to run after ignition
switch is turned OFF but runs very roughly. If engine
runs smoothly, check ignition switch.
Make a “CAREFUL VISUAL CHECK” as described in
the earlier paragraphs.
Checks: • Spark plugs. Remove spark plugs, check for wet
• Fuel injector and TBI for fuel leaks. Use CHART or dirty plugs, cracks, wear, wrong gap, damaged
A–7. electrodes or insulators. Repair or replace as nec-
essary. Also, check spark plug wires.
FAULT: “Backfire”
• Spark plug wires for damage and correct installa-
Definition: Fuel explodes in intake manifold, or in ex- tion. Inspect Ignition Coil assembly
haust system, making loud noise. • Do fuel system tests. Use CHART A–7.
Make a “CAREFUL VISUAL CHECK” as described in
the earlier paragraphs. ENGINE

Check: • Compression – Look for valves that stick or leak.

IGNITION SYSTEM • Valve timing. See Engine Service Manual.

• Correct output from ignition coil with spark tes- • Intake and exhaust manifold passages for restric-
ter. tions.

51
 SYSTEM TEST CHARTS
GENERAL TABLE 3. ECT SENSOR –
TEMPERATURE vs. RESISTANCE
This part of the section has the following:
°C °F Ohms
• Components tests
100 212 177
• Circuit tests
90 194 214
• Function tests and adjustments
80 176 332
For location of components, complete engine electronic 70 158 467
wiring diagrams, and ECM wiring harness connector 60 140 667
terminal end views, see illustrations at the end of this
50 122 973
section.
45 113 1188
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT) 40 104 1459
SENSOR TEST 35 95 1802
30 86 2238
The ECT, using the following procedure, can be tested at
different temperatures. A volt/ohmmeter, a thermome- 25 77 2796
ter, engine coolant, and something to heat the coolant 20 68 3520
will be needed for the test. 15 59 4450
• Heat the coolant to one of the temperatures 10 50 5670
shown on the chart.
5 41 7280
• Position the ECT sensor, sensing end, into the 0 32 9420
heated coolant.
–5 23 12,300
• Wait about 60 seconds to allow the coolant to heat –10 14 16,180
the sensor.
–15 5 21,450
• Test the sensor resistance and compare the read-
–20 –4 28,680
ing to those in TABLE 3.
–30 –22 52,700
• Sensors with a reading within 10% of the specifi-
cations can be used. –40 –40 100,700

52
THROTTLE POSITION (TP) SENSOR
CHECK
Using a ”SCAN” tool, watch the TP Sensor % and volt-
age. The reading will increase evenly as the throttle
plate is opened. See FIGURE 5. There must be no read-
ing that is lower than the previous reading as the throttle
plate is moved more open. A reading that went lower or
higher then lower as the plate is opened, indicates a
damaged sensor that must be replaced. See FIGURE 6.
FIGURE 5. GOOD TP SENSOR READING
FIGURE 6. DAMAGED TP SENSOR READING
MINIMUM IDLE SPEED
• Minimum idle speed (Minimum Air Setting) set
only when installing a replacement throttle body.
• The idle stop screw is used to hold the minimum
idle speed of the engine. On original equipment
throttle bodies, it is adjusted at the factory, then
covered with a plug.
NOTE: The minimum idle speed adjustment is impor-
tant for correct system operation. A minimum idle speed
that is too high can cause the IAC valve pintle to
constantly touch the bottom of its seat and cause valve
failure. If the minimum idle speed is too low, the vehicle
can be hard to start in cold weather or can cause a stall
during idle.
Adjustment (See FIGURE 7.)
1. Put a block on both sides of a drive tires and apply the
parking brake.
2. Put the transmission in Neutral. Start and run the en-
gine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
3. Turn ignition key OFF.
4. Connect a ”SCAN” tool to the DLC.
5. Turn ignition key to the ON position.
6. Select ”Field Service Mode” on the ”SCAN” tool.
This will cause the IAC valve pintle to extend, closing
the air passage in the throttle body. Wait 45 seconds, dis-
connect the IAC valve connector, then exit the ”Field
Service Mode.”
7. Start and run the engine. It can be necessary to hold
the throttle open slightly to run the engine.
8. Select ”Engine RPM” on the ”SCAN” tool, and read
engine speed.
IMPORTANT
Engine must be at normal operating temperature
All accessories must be ”OFF.”
Make sure throttle and governor cables do not hold the
throttle open.
Correct idle speed is 550 ± 50 rpm (for engines that have
more than 10 hours operating time.)
9. Remove plug as shown in FIGURE 7. Adjust mini-
mum idle speed if necessary.
10. Turn ignition switch OFF.
11. Connect IAC valve electrical connector.
12. Reset IAC valve pintle position:
a. Start and run engine over 2000 rpm.
53
 b. Select ”Field Service Mode.”
1. PLUG
c. Run engine at 2000 rpm for approximately 10 se- 2. IDLE STOP
conds. SCREW 2

d. Exit ”Field Service Mode.”

e. Allow engine to return to idle.

f. Turn ignition switch OFF.

g. Wait 10 seconds, start engine, let idle. 1

h. Check for correct idle. (IAC at 5–40 Counts.)

i. Disconnect ”SCAN” tool.

j. Remove blocks from drive tires FIGURE 7. IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT

54
 IAC CONNECTOP
AIR
FLOW ECM
D C B A

D HK J2–28 IAC COIL “A” HI

HJ J2–13 IAC COIL “A” LO

C
HG J1–14 IAC COIL “B” HI
B
A JT J2–29 IAC COIL “B” LO

THROTTLE
BODY

CHART C–1
IDLE AIR CONTROL (IAC) SYSTEM CHECK
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The ECM controls engine idle speed with the IAC valve. To increase idle speed, the ECM retracts the IAC valve pintle
away from its seat, allowing more air to bypass the throttle bore. To decrease idle speed, the IAC valve pintle extends
towards its seat, reducing by–pass air flow. A “SCAN” tool will read the ECM commands to the IAC valve in counts.
The higher the counts indicate more air bypass (higher idle). The lower the counts indicate less air is allowed to bypass
(lower idle).
Other Troubleshooting Checks: • System Too Lean (High Air/Fuel Ratio) – The
idle speed can be too high or too low. Engine
• A slow, unstable, or fast idle speed can be caused
speed can vary up and down and disconnecting
by a problem other than the IAC system. Out of
the IAC valve does not help. Check for low fuel
control range IAC “SCAN” tool counts will be
pressure, water in the fuel or a dirty injector.
above 50 if idle is too low, and zero counts if idle
is too high. Make the following checks to repair a • System Too Rich (Low Air/Fuel Ratio) – The idle
problem that is not in the IAC system: speed will be too low. “SCAN” tool IAC counts
will usually be above 50. System is rich and can
• Vacuum Leak (High Idle) – If idle is too high, cause black smoke in exhaust. Check for high
stop the engine. Fully extend (low) IAC with tes- fuel pressure or an injector that leaks or sticks.
ter. Start engine. If idle speed is above 800 RPM,
fix vacuum leak including PCV system. Also
• Throttle Body – Remove IAC valve and inspect
bore for dirt.
check for smooth movement of the throttle plate
or linkage. • IAC Valve Electrical Connections – Check IAC
valve connections for correct contact.
• PCV Valve – If a high idle condition exists (800 to
1000 RPM), check for vacuum leaks and correct • See TROUBLESHOOTING – POOR OPERA-
PCV valve operation. All throttle bodies are pre- TION.
set at the factory and do not need adjustment. A • If problems are fixed by disconnecting the IAC,
missing PCV valve or grommet or a valve that carefully check connections, IAC valve terminal
sticks can cause this condition. resistance, or replace IAC.

55
 • INSTALL “SCAN” TOOL.
• RUN ENGINE AT NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE
APPLY PARKING BRAKE.
• DISCONNECT THE IAC MOTOR CONNECTOR.
TEST THE IAC COIL RESISTANCE.
• CORRECT RESISTANCE IS 40 TO 80 OHMS BETWEEN
IAC TERMINALS “A” TO “B” AND “C” TO “D”.
IS IT?

IAC CIRCUIT IS GOOD. SEE

OTHER TROUBLESHOOTING
CHECKS ON PREVIOUS PAGE.

CHART C–1 – IDLE AIR CONTROL (IAC) SYSTEM CHECK

56
 CHART C–2
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR OUTPUT TEST

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor measures the changes in the intake manifold pressure that come from
engine load (intake manifold vacuum) and rpm changes. The MAP sensor converts these changes into a voltage out-
put. The ECM sends a 5 volts reference voltage to the MAP sensor. As the manifold pressure changes, the output volt-
age of the sensor also changes. By monitoring the sensor output voltage, the ECM knows the manifold pressure. A
lower pressure (low voltage) output voltage will be about 1 to 2 volts at idle. While higher pressure (high voltage)
output voltage will be about 4 to 4.8 at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). The MAP sensor is also used, under certain condi-
tions, to measure barometric pressure, allowing the ECM to make adjustments for altitude changes. The ECM uses the
MAP sensor to control fuel delivery and ignition timing.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference the change in voltage must be quick. A slow voltage
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on change indicates a bad sensor.
the next page.
3. Check vacuum source to sensor for leaking or restric-
tion. Be sure that no other vacuum devices are con-
1. When comparing “SCAN” readings to a known good nected to the MAP vacuum source.
vehicle, it is important to compare vehicles that use a
MAP sensor having the same color insert and the same NOTE: Make sure electrical connector remains secure-
number. See illustrations in the Troubleshooting Chart. ly fastened.
4. Remove sensor from the intake manifold and twist
2. Apply 34 kPa (10” Hg) vacuum to the MAP sensor to sensor (by hand only) to check for intermittent connec-
cause a voltage readings of 1.5 to 2.1 volts less than the tion. Output changes greater than .10 volt indicate a bad
voltage in Step 1. When applying vacuum to the sensor, sensor or connection. If good, replace sensor.

57
 NUMBER

INSERT

CHART C–2 – MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR OUTPUT TEST

58
 2
3

1
4

CHART C–3
ENGINE MISSES AT IDLE

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The Electronic Ignition (EI) system uses a waste spark method of distribution. In this type of system, the Ignition Con-
trol Module (ICM) energizes the number l/4 coil casuing both number 1 and number 4 spark plugs to energize at the
same time. Number 1 cylinder is on the compression stroke at the same time number 4 is on the exhaust stroke, causing
a lower energy need to energize the number 4 spark plug. This leaves the remainder of the high voltage to be used to
energize number 1 spark plug. Number 2/3 coil circuit works the same way that 1/4 coil circuit works. The Crankshaft
Position (CKP) sensor is mounted beside the ignition coil assembly and extends through the block to within approxi-
mately .1.3 mm (0.050 in) of the crankshaft reluctor. Since the reluctor is a machined part of the crankshaft and the
CKP sensor is mounted in the block, there are no timing adjustments.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference for longer than 15 seconds. Let the engine run normally
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on for 30 seconds between tests to burn any fuel not used.
the next page.
A spark tester must be used to check for enough second-
If the engine misses while under a load only, use ary voltage at the spark plug (25,000 volts). If the spark
CHART C–4: jumps the tester gap after connecting the companion
spark plug wire to ground, it indicates too much resis-
Keep disconnected spark plug leads away from sensors tance in the plug that was by–passed. A bad connection
and other electronic components. Move quickly through at that plug can also cause a misfire condition. Also,
this test. Do not leave any spark plug lead disconnected check for carbon deposits inside the spark plug boot.

59
If carbon is found on the coil, replace coil and be sure
spark plug wires for that coil are clean and tight. Too
much wire resistance or bad connections can cause dam-
age to the coils.
By checking the secondary resistance, a coil with an
60
open secondary can be found. If the no spark condition
follows the coil, that coil is bad. Otherwise, the Ignition
Control Module (ICM) is the cause of no spark. This test
can also be done by using a known good coil for the one
causing the no spark condition.
CAUTION When moving the spark plug wires with the engine running,
use pliers with insulation to prevent electrical shock.

SEE FAULTS FOR POOR IDLE

IN TROUBLESHOOTING
CHARTS.

CHECK FOR:
° DIRTY OR WORN SPARK PLUGS
° ENGINE PROBLEMS CAUSING SPARK PLUG
DAMAGE
° SEE TROUBLESHOOTING CHARTS

CHART C–3 – ENGINE MISSES AT IDLE

61
 2
3

1
4

CHART C–4
ENGINE MISSES WITH A LOAD

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The Electronic Ignition (EI) system uses a waste spark method of distribution. In this type of system, the Ignition Con-
trol Module (ICM) energizes the number l/4 coil casuing both number 1 and number 4 spark plugs to energize at the
same time. Number 1 cylinder is on the compression stroke at the same time number 4 is on the exhaust stroke, causing
a lower energy need to energize the number 4 spark plug. This leaves the remainder of the high voltage to be used to
energize number 1 spark plug. Number 2/3 coil circuit works the same way that 1/4 coil circuit works. The Crankshaft
Position (CKP) sensor is mounted beside the ignition coil assembly and extends through the block to within approxi-
mately .1.3 mm (0.050 in) of the crankshaft reluctor. Since the reluctor is a machined part of the crankshaft and the
CKP sensor is mounted in the block, there are no timing adjustments.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference 1. Causes an engine load. Cranking the engine with the
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on spark tester installed on any cylinder will casue a sharp,
the next page. blue spark. A cylinder that produces less spark than the
If the engine misses during idle only, use CHART C–4: others can be considered as having no spark.

62
CAUTION When moving the spark plug wires with the engine running,
use pliers with insulation to prevent electrical shock.

CHECK FOR:
° DIRTY OR WORN SPARK
PLUGS
° SEE TROUBLESHOOTING
CHARTS

CHART C–4 – ENGINE MISSES WITH A LOAD

63
CHECK THE PCV SYSTEM With this system, fumes are sent into the air filter and
into the engine intake manifold.
CAUTION
An engine that is operated without any crankcase
ventilation can be damaged. Therefore, it is impor-
tant to replace the PCV valve at intervals shown in
the PERIODIC MAINTENANCE section.
A restriction in the PCV valve or hose can cause:
• Rough idle, slow idle speed, oil leaks or oil in the
air cleaner.
1
A PCV valve or hose that leaks can cause:
• Rough idle, high idle speed or engine stalls.
1. CHECK VALVE NEEDLE
If the engine has a rough idle, check for a restriction in
the PCV valve or hose. Replace parts as described in
FIGURE 8. PCV VALVE
REPAIRS.

64
 CHECK THE GOVERNOR SYSTEM
GOVERNOR SYSTEM NOT OPERATING
CORRECTLY
A governor system that does not operate correctly can
cause any of the following:
Engine rpm more than limit of governor
Engine power variation (surge)
Engine backfire
Low engine power
No acceleration (low engine rpm)
Check The Function Of Governor System
Normal testing for governor will include the following:
1. Start engine, keep transmission in Neutral.
2. Accelerate the engine to maximum throttle.
3. Observe the engine speed.
4. Did the engine accelerate smoothly, and to the
normal limit?
If the system appears to function incorrectly, compare
RPM readings from a ”SCAN” tool with readings from
a secondary tachometer attached to a spark plug wire.
They must be very close or the same.
If they are different, check for EMI. Items like spark
plug wires too close to the distributor primary wires, or
charging system wires.
If the readings are close or the same, see chart for DTC
31 for more testing. (It is possible that the system will
not set DTC 31. In this case the DTC 31 chart can be
used.)
65
 REPAIRS

FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS TBI Unit, Removal

NOTE: The TBI is made of many separate components.

General
NOTE: The following is general information to be used
when working on the fuel system:
• Always use new O–rings on the fuel line fittings.
• All steel tubing on the fuel system must be re-
placed with original equipment parts.
• All fuel hoses must be replaced with original
equipment parts.
• Do not replace any steel fuel tubing with fuel
hose. Do not replace any steel fuel tubing with
copper or aluminum tubing.
• Some of the parts of the TBI can be cleaned in a
cleaner such as Hyster Carburetor Cleaner or its
equivalent. DO NOT clean the following parts:
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), IAC valve, fuel
injectors, cover for fuel meter body, ball bearings
and the governor assembly
See FIGURE 10. The TBI can be replaced as a complete
unit or the parts of the TBI can be replaced while the TBI
is installed on the engine. See the PARTS MANUAL
for repair kits for the components of the TBI. To make
sure the replacement part has the correct part number,
See FIGURE 9. Replacement of the individual compo-
nents is described after the following procedures.
1. Disconnect the negative cable at the battery.
2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to release pressure in the fuel
tank.
3. Disconnect and remove the parts that connect the TBI
to the air filter.
4. Disconnect the wires to the IAC valve, TPS, governor
motor and the fuel injectors. Remove the wiring harness
grommet for the fuel injector.

CAUTION
To reduce the risk of fire and personal injury, relieve
the fuel system pressure before servicing fuel system
components.

After relieving system pressure, a small amount of fuel

may be released when servicing fuel lines or connec-
tions. To reduce the chance of personal injury, cover fuel
line fittings with a shop towel before disconnecting, to
catch any fuel that may leak out. Place the towel in an
approved container when disconnect is completed. 1
2
3
Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure 4
1. DAY OF YEAR
2. YEAR 5
1. Disconnect negative battery terminal to avoid pos- 3. ASSEMBLY PLANT CODE
sible fuel discharge if an accidental attempt is made to 4. SHIFT IDENTIFICATION
start the engine. 5. SOURCE CODE

FIGURE 9. TBI IDENTIFICATION

2. Loosen fuel filler cap to relieve tank vapor pressure.
3. The internal relief in the TBI unit relieves fuel pump
pressure when the engine is “OFF”. Therefore, no addi-
tional pressure relief procedure is required.
5. Disconnect the throttle cable at the throttle crank.
6. Disconnect the vacuum hoses. Put tags on the hoses
for identification.

66
7. Disconnect the fuel pressure and fuel return lines at
the TBI. Hold the fittings in the TBI to keep them from
turning when the fuel lines are disconnected.
8. Remove the fasteners that hold the TBI to the man-
ifold. Remove the TBI. Cover the opening in the man-
ifold to prevent dirt from entering the engine.
TBI Unit, Cleaning and Inspection
See the cleaning instructions in the NOTES under “Gen-
eral” at the beginning of this REPAIR section. Clean the
gasket from the manifold and the TBI. Be careful to pre-
vent damage the machined surfaces. Check the ma-
chined surfaces for damage. Check the manifold for
loose parts.
TBI Unit, Installation
1. Use a new gasket and install the TBI on the manifold.
Tighten the fasteners for the TBI to 25 N.m (18 lbf ft).
2. Install the fuel line fittings and gaskets. Tighten the
fuel line fittings to 41 N.m (30 lbf ft). Use new O–rings
on the fuel lines. Connect the fuel pressure and fuel re-
turn lines.
3. Connect the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor.
4. Connect the throttle cable at the throttle cam. Check
the adjustment of the throttle cables as described in the
procedures for the GOVERNOR SYSTEM.
5. Install the wiring harness grommet for the fuel injec-
tors. Connect the wires to the IAC valve, TPS and the
fuel injector.
6. Connect the negative cable at the battery.

1. FUEL INJECTOR
2. FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR 1
3. FUEL METER BODY
4. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
5. IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE
6. INLET FUEL FITTING
7. VACUUM PORT MODULE
8. FUEL RETURN FITTING
9. THROTTLE BODY 3
10. VACUUM CONNECTION FOR
MAP SENSOR
2

10

FIGURE 10. THROTTLE BODY INJECTION (TBI) UNIT

67
7. Turn the key switch to “ON” (do not start the engine) 4. Install the wiring harness grommet for the fuel injec-
and check for fuel leaks. tors. Connect the wires at the fuel injector.

8. Use a new gasket and connect the air filter to the TBI. 7. Connect the negative cable at the battery. Turn the key
switch to ON (do not start the engine) and check for fuel
9. Set the position of the pintle valve of the IAC as fol- leaks.
lows:
a. Depress the throttle pedal a small amount. 8. Use a new gasket and connect the air filter to the TBI.
b. Start and run the engine for three seconds.
c. Turn the key switch to OFF for ten seconds.
1
d. Start the engine and check for correct idle opera- 3
tion.
4 6
Fuel Meter Body, Removal
5
(See FIGURE 9.)
2
1. Disconnect the negative cable at the battery.
1. FUEL INJECTOR (TOP VIEW)
2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to release pressure in the fuel 2. PART NUMBER
tank. 3. MONTH, 1–9 (JAN.–SEPT.)
O, N, D (OCT., NOV., DEC.)
3. Disconnect and remove the parts that connect the air 4. DAY
filter to the TBI. 5. YEAR
6. BUILD DATE CODE
7. • = INDICATES HIGH DYNAMIC RANGE
4. Disconnect the electrical connector at the fuel injec-
tor. Remove the grommet and wires from the body. FIGURE 11. FUEL INJECTOR IDENTIFICATION

5. Disconnect the fuel lines at the fuel meter body. Hold

the fittings in the TBI to keep them from turning when Fuel Injector, Removal (See FIGURE 12.)
the fuel lines are disconnected.
NOTE: The fuel injector must be replaced as a complete
6. Remove the fasteners that hold the TBI to the man-
unit. To make sure the replacement part has the correct
ifold. Remove the screws that hold the fuel meter body
part number, see FIGURE 11.
to the TBI. Remove the fuel meter body and gasket.

7. Clean the gasket surfaces on the fuel meter body. 1. Disconnect the negative cable at the battery.

2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to release pressure in the fuel

Fuel Meter Body, Installation
(See FIGURE 9.)
1. Use a new gasket and install the fuel meter body on
the TBI..
2. Use a thread locking adhesive (Loctite 262) on the
screws for the fuel meter body. Install the screws and
tighten them to 3.5 N.m (31 lbf in). Tighten the fasteners
for the TBI to 25 N.m (18 lbf ft).
3. Use new O–rings on the fuel lines. Connect the fuel
pressure and fuel return lines.
tank.
3. Disconnect and remove the parts that connect the air
filter to the TBI.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector at the fuel injec-
tor.
5. Remove the screw and retainer for the fuel injector.
6. To remove the fuel injector, use a screwdriver as
shown in FIGURE 12. Remove and discard the O–rings
on the fuel injector.

68
 4. Connect the negative cable at the battery. Turn the key
1 3
switch to “ON” (do not start the engine) and check for
fuel leaks.
5. Use a new gasket and connect the air filter to the TBI.
4
Pressure Regulator, Removal
(See FIGURE 14.)
1. FUEL INJECTOR 2 1. Disconnect the negative cable at the battery.
2. FUEL METER BODY
3. SCREWDRIVER
4. FULCRUM
5
FIGURE 12. REMOVE THE FUEL INJECTOR 3 4
2
Fuel Injector, Installation
(See FIGURE 13.)

1. Lubricate the new O–rings with engine oil. Install the

small O–ring so that it is against the fuel filter. Install the 1
upper (large) O–ring on the fuel injector. 6

2. Install the fuel injector into the bore of the fuel meter 1. COVER 4. SPRING
body. Push the fuel injector until it is against its seat. 2. SCREW 5. DIAPHRAGM
3. SPRING SEAT 6. FUEL METER BODY
Turn the fuel injector so that the electrical connector is
toward the notch. FIGURE 14. PRESSURE REGULATOR

3. Use a thread locking adhesive on the screw for the re- 2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to release pressure in the fuel
tainer. Install the retainer and the screw. Tighten the tank.
screws to 3.0 N.m (27 lbf in). 3. Disconnect and remove the parts that connect the air
filter to the TBI.
4. Hold the pressure regulator to compress the spring.
2
1 Remove the screws that hold the pressure regulator to
the fuel meter body. Remove the pressure regulator as-
3 sembly. Remove the diaphragm.
4
Pressure Regulator, Inspection
5 Inspect the valve seat in the fuel meter body for damage.
Replace the fuel meter body if there is any damage.
6
Pressure Regulator, Installation
7
(See FIGURE 14.)
1. Install a new diaphragm. Make sure the diaphragm
8 fits in the groove of the fuel meter body.
2. Install the seat for the spring and the spring in the cov-
er, then install the cover. Use a thread locking adhesive
(Loctite 262) on the screws for the cover. Install the
1. FUEL INJECTOR 4. UPPER O–RING screws and tighten them to 2.4 N.m (21 lbf in).
2. SCREW 5. LOWER O–RING
3. RETAINER 6. FUEL METER BODY 3. Connect the negative cable at the battery. Turn the key
switch to ON (do not start the engine) and check for fuel
FIGURE 13. INSTALL THE FUEL INJECTOR leaks.

69
4. Use a new gasket and connect the air filter to the TBI.
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), Removal
(See FIGURE 15.)
1. Disconnect and remove the parts that connect the TBI
to the air filter.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the TPS.
3. Remove the screws for the TPS and remove the TPS.
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS),
Installation (See FIGURE 15.)
1. With the throttle valve closed, install the TPS on the
throttle shaft. Rotate the TPS to align the screw holes.
Use a thread locking adhesive (Loctite 262) on the
screws. Install the screws and tighten them to 2.0 N.m
(18 lbf in).
2. Connect the electrical connector to the TPS. Use a
new gasket and connect the air filter to the TBI.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the IAC
valve.
3. Remove the screws for the IAC valve and the valve.
Cleaning and Inspection
See the cleaning instructions in the NOTES under “Gen-
eral” at the beginning of REPAIRS. Use a carburetor
cleaner to clean the carbon from the valve seat for the
pintle, the air passage and the surface for the O–ring. In-
spect the O–ring for damage.
NOTE: If the IAC valve must be replaced, make sure
the replacement part has the correct part number. The
shape and diameter of the pintle is made for this applica-
tion.
3
A
B

1 4 1 2

A = DISTANCE OF PINTLE EXTENSION

B = DIAMETER OF PINTLE
1. O–RING 3. SCREW
2. IAC VALVE BODY 4. PINTLE
FIGURE 16. IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE
2 Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve, Installation
(See FIGURE 16.)
3
NOTE: When installing a new IAC valve, measure the
1. THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY distance between the tip of the pintle and the flange, di-
2. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
3. THROTTLE SHAFT 4 mension A in FIGURE 16. If the distance is more than
4. SCREW 28 mm (1.1 in), use your finger to slowly retract the
pintle. This procedure will not damage a NEW IAC
FIGURE 15. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
valve. DO NOT do this procedure if the IAC valve has
(TPS)
been in service.
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve, Removal 1. Lubricate the O–ring for the IAC valve with engine
(See FIGURE 16.) oil and install it on the valve.
2. Install the IAC valve on the throttle body. Tighten the
CAUTION screws to 3.0 N.m (27 lbf in).
If the IAC valve has been in service, DO NOT push or
pull on the pintle. Moving the pintle can damage the 3. Connect the electrical connector to the IAC valve.
internal parts of the IAC valve. 4. Use a new gasket and connect the air filter to the TBI.
1. Disconnect and remove the parts that connect the TBI 5. Do the following procedure to reset the position of the
to the air filter. pintle:

70
 a. Depress the throttle pedal a small amount.
b. Start and run the engine for five seconds.
c. Turn the key switch to OFF for ten seconds.
d. Start the engine and check for correct idle opera-
tion.
Vacuum Port Module, Removal
(See FIGURE 17.)
1. Disconnect and remove the parts that connect the air
filter to the TBI.
2. Disconnect the vacuum hose. Remove the screws for
the tube module. Remove the tube module and gasket.
Vacuum Port Module, Installation
(See FIGURE 17.)
1. Use a new gasket and install vacuum port module to
the throttle body. Use a thread locking adhesive (Loctite
262) on the screws and install the screws. Tighten the
screws to 3.0 N.m (27 lbf in).
2. Connect the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor. Connect
the air filter.
1. VACUUM PORT
MODULE
2. PLUG
3. GASKET
2
1 3
FIGURE 17. VACUUM PORT MODULE
Throttle Body, Removal and Disassembly
(See FIGURE 10.)
1. Disconnect the negative cable at the battery.
2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to release pressure in the fuel
tank.
3. Disconnect and remove the parts that connect the air
filter to the TBI. Disconnect the throttle linkage at the
TBI. Disconnect the vacuum line. Disconnect the elec-
trical connectors at the fuel injector, throttle position
sensor and the idle air control valve. Remove the TBI
from the engine.
4. Disconnect the fuel lines. Remove the fuel meter
body.
5. Remove the other components from the throttle body
as described in the Removal procedures for those parts.
Throttle Body, Inspection
Inspect the surfaces of the throttle body for damage.
Check that all air passages are clean.
Throttle Body, Assembly and Installation
(See FIGURE 10.)
1. Assemble the components on the throttle body as de-
scribed in the Assembly procedures for those parts.
2. Use a new gasket and install the TBI on the intake
manifold. Install the capscrews for the TBI and tighten
them to 25 N.m (18 lbf ft).
3. Use new O–rings and install the fuel line fittings in the
fuel meter body. Tighten the fittings to 41 N.m (30 lbf
ft).
4. Use a new gasket and install the TBI on the manifold.
Tighten the fasteners for the TBI to 22 N.m (16 lbf ft).
5. Use new O–rings on the fuel lines. Connect the fuel
pressure and fuel return lines. Hold the fittings in the
TBI to keep them from turning. Tighten the fuel line nuts
to 27 N.m (20 lbf ft).
6. Connect the electrical connectors at the fuel injector,
throttle position sensor and the idle air control valve.
7. Connect the throttle cable at the throttle cam. Check
the adjustment of the throttle cables as described in the
procedures for the GOVERNOR SYSTEM.
8. Connect the negative cable at the battery. Turn the key
switch to ON (do not start the engine) and check for fuel
leaks.
9. Use a new gasket and connect the air filter to the TBI.
71
 TOP VIEW
1
17 3
2

16

6
15
14

13

12776

10
9
12 11
1. AIR FILTER RESTRICTION SENDER
2. FUEL INJECTOR
3. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS) 11. FUEL PUMP PRIMER
4. IDLE AIR CONTROL (IAC) 12. GOVERNOR MOTOR
5. FUEL PUMP FUSE 13. WATER TEMPERATURE SENDER (ECM)
6. FUEL INJECTOR FUSE 14. WATER TEMPERATURE SENDER
7. DIAGNOSTIC LINK CONNECTOR (DLC) (GAUGE)
8. POWER RECEPTACLE 15. PCV VALVE
9. IGNITION FUSE 16. FUEL PUMP RELAY
10. ECM FUSE 17. FITTING FOR PCV HOSE

FIGURE 18. ARRANGEMENT OF COMPONENTS FOR ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROL (1 of 2)

72

SIDE VIEW 7
1
2 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3
4 damage.
5 6
1. MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP)
SENSOR
2. ECM OUTPUT
3. ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE (ECM),
EARLY MODELS
4. DIRECT IGNITION COIL
5. TACH CONNECTOR
6. OIL PRESSURE/FUEL PUMP SWITCH
7. ECM INPUT
FIGURE 18. COMPONENTS FOR ELECTRONIC
ENGINE CONTROL (2 OF 2)
Oil Pressure Switch, Replacement
(See FIGURE 18.)
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect the
connector at the oil pressure switch.
2. Remove the oil pressure switch.
3. Inspect the electrical connectors and terminals for
damage.
4. Install the oil pressure switch in the engine.
5. Connect the connector at the oil pressure switch. Con-
nect the negative battery cable.
6. Run engine and check for oil leaks.
GOVERNOR SYSTEM
Governor Module Replacement
NOTE: The governor module is installed on the inside
of the cowl, under the plastic panel.
2. Loosen the panel under instrument panel (pull panel
rearward).
3. Disconnect the electrical connector. Remove the
mounting screws and remove the module.
4. Inspect the electrical connectors and terminals for
5. Install the governor module with the screws. Connect
the connector at the module.
4. Install the panel on the cowl.
5. Connect the negative battery cable.
Governor Motor Replacement
(See FIGURE 18.)
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the cover from governor assembly.
3. Disconnect throttle cables at the TBI and the throttle
pedal. Disconnect the cables at the governor.
4. Remove the governor assembly from the bracket.
5. Install the governor assembly on the bracket.
6. Install and adjust the throttle cables as described in the
prodedures for Throttle Cables.
6. Connect the electrical connector at the governor.
7. Connect the ngative battery cable.
Throttle Cables,
Installation and Adjustment
1. Connect the throttle cables to the governor actuator as
shown in FIGURE 19. (Only the two pulleys closest to
the governor motor are used.) Install the lock washers
and flat washers on the cable housings. Slide each cable
housing to the end of the slot. Each cable will align with
a groove in a pulley. The pulley closest to the governor
motor is for the cable that goes to the TBI unit. Install the
cable ends into the pulley, making sure the cables fit in
73
the grooves. Check for free operation of the cables on
the pulleys. Tighten the nuts on the cable housings to 18
to 20 N.m (12 to 15 lbf ft).
bracket until there is 6 mm (0.25 in) clearance between
the throttle stop on the TBI unit and the lever. At this
position the throttle plate will be approximately 3/4
open. Tighten the jam nuts at the bracket when the ad-
justment is correct.

5. Install the cover on the governor assembly.

1

1
1. PEDAL PAD
2. LINK
3. CRANK
5

GAS
4
5
2

4
GAS

3
2
3 4
1. GOVERNOR MOTOR
2. CABLE TO TBI UNIT
3. CABLE TO ACCELERATOR PEDAL 6 GAS
4. ACTUATOR ASSEMBLY
5. COVER
GAS
FIGURE 19. THROTTLE CABLES 4. PEDAL FRAME
5. PEDAL RETURN STOP
6. CAPSCREW

2. Connect the throttle cable to the lever on the TBI unit.
Connect the throttle cable to the pedal as shown in
FIGURE 20.
3. Adjust the cable housing at the pedal bracket until the
pulleys in the governor actuator are rotated fully clock-
wise against the internal stop. (As seen from the rear of
the lift truck.) Adjust the cable housing only enough so
that the cable is not loose. There also must be no tension
in the cable. When the adjustment is correct, tighten
both jam nuts at the pedal bracket.
4. Connect the ball joint on the other cable to the lever on
the TBI unit. Install the cable housing in the bracket on
top of the valve cover. Adjust the cable housing at the
FIGURE 20. MONOTROL PEDAL
6. Adjust the pedal return stop (see FIGURE 20.) so that
there is no tension on the throttle cable at the idle posi-
tion. When the pedal return stop is in the correct posi-
tion, tighten the capscrew that holds the stop to the
bracket.
CHECK THE MONOTROL PEDAL
(See FIGURE 20.)
Slowly move the Monotrol pedal pad from Forward to
Reverse and Reverse to Forward. There must be some
movement of the pedal pad before the pedal frame
moves and the throttle opens.

74
IGNITION SYSTEM
ECM Replacement (See FIGURE 18.)
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
NOTE: On early models the ECM is installed under the
intake manifold. On later models the ECM is installed
on a bracket to the left of the radiator.
2. Disconnect the connectors from ECM.
8. Install the screws that hold the module to the engine.
Tighten the capscrews to 4.5 N m (40 lbf in).
9. Connect the electrical connections. Connect the nega-
tive battery cable.
Ignition Coil Replacement
(See FIGURE 21.)
NOTE: The coils can be removed with the ICM at-
tached to the engine.

3. Remove the capscrews that hold the ECM to the
mount plate on the intake manifold or the bracket.
NOTE: To prevent Electrostatic Discharge damage to
the ECM, DO NOT TOUCH the connector pins of the
ECM.
4. Install the ECM in position and install the capscrews.
Connect the connectors to the ECM.
5. Connect the negative battery cable.
Function Check
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the spark plug wires from the coils. Re-
move the mounting capscrews for the coils and remove
the coils.
3. Inspect the electrical connectors and terminals for
damage. Inspect the coils for cracks or damage.
4. Install the new coil(s). Tighten the capscrews for the
coils to 4.5 N.m (40 lbf in).
5. Connect the spark plug wires. Connect the negative
battery cable.

1. Turn ignition key ON.

2. Enter diagnostic mode by connecting the terminals

“A” and “B” together at the DLC. 3
Let DTC 12 to flash four times in a row to check that no
other DTC’s are present. This indicates that the ECM
functions correctly.

ICM Replacement (See FIGURE 21.)

4
NOTE: This operation is normally done from under the 1
lift truck. 2
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable 1. BRACKET
2. ICM
2. Disconnect the electrical connectors at the ICM. 3. COIL FOR CYLINDERS 2 AND 3
4. COIL FOR CYLINDERS 1 AND 4
3. Remove the screws for the ICM. Remove the coils
and shield from the assembly. FIGURE 21. IGNITION COILS

4. Move any parts to the new ICM. Crankshaft Sensor Replacement

5. Inspect the electrical connectors and terminals for
damage. Inspect the coils for cracks or damage.
6. Install the new EIC module to the mounting bracket.
7. Install the shield and coils from the other assembly.
(See FIGURE 22.)
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the connector at the crankshaft sensor.
3. Remove the retainer capscrew and the sensor.

75
4. Inspect the electrical connectors and terminals for spark plug boot easier to remove. The following silicon
damage. Inspect the oil seal and mounting surfaces for greases are approved for use:
leaks. General Electric GE627
Packard PM776
5. Install a new oil seal and crankshaft sensor. Install the
Wacker Silicones G47
retainer capscrew and tighten to 8 N.m (71 lbf in).
1. Do not damage the spark plug wires during removal.
6. Connect the connector at the crankshaft sensor. Con- Hold the wire by the boot near the end of the wire. Rotate
nect the negative battery cable. the boot a half–turn before pulling it and the connection
7. Run engine and check for oil leaks. from the spark plug. Do not use pliers or other tools that
can damage the boot. Do not pull the wires to disconnect
the spark plug wires. Pull the boot, or use a tool made for
3 this purpose.
1
2. Do NOT put a hole in the boot or the insulation of the
2 spark plug wire. Do NOT try to insert a wire between the
boot and the connector of the spark plug wire.
3. Make sure the spark plug wires are installed in the
same locations using the clips. The spark plug wires can
be damaged or cause poor engine operation if they are
not correctly installed.
4
4. Special care must be used when spark plug boots are
installed. Make sure that the metal terminal within the
1. COIL FOR CYLINDERS 2 AND 3
2. COIL FOR CYLINDERS 1 AND 4 boot is fully connected to the spark plug terminal. Make
3. ICM sure that the boot has not moved on the wire. If there is
4. CRANK SENSOR boot to wire movement, the boot can appear to be fully
FIGURE 22. IGNITION PARTS installed when it is not.
5. Make sure to install the insulator in the shield at the
Procedures For Spark Plugs, Spark Plug boot of all spark plug wires.
Wires, And Boots
NOTE: The condition of the spark plugs removed from
NOTE: Use a silicon grease on the inside of the spark the engine can show engine operating problems. See the
plug boots to make a better weather seal and make the table for Troubleshooting Of Spark Plugs.

76
 TROUBLESHOOTING OF SPARK PLUGS
PROBLEM
Brown to gray or tan deposits and Normal wear
some electrode wear
Dry, black carbon deposits
Wet, oily deposits with minimum
electrode wear
Red, brown, yellow and white
colored coatings on the insulator.
Engine operation is not constant
during difficult operating
conditions.
Heavily deposits on the part of
the plug that goes into the
chamber and on the side facing
the intake valve.
Yellow glaze coating on the
insulator of the spark plug.
Insulator tips are burned or
electrodes worn.
Spark plugs have broken or
cracked insulator tips
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Poor ignition output
1. “Break–in” of new or recently
overhauled engine
2. Clearances too large between
valve stem and valve guide
3. Worn seals on the inlet valves
By–products of combustion.
Valve seals have leaks if condition is
found in only one or two cylinders.
Melted by–products of combustion.
Overheating
Heat shock from sudden rise in tip
temperature under severe operating
conditions. Electrode clearance not
correct.
CORRECTION
Clean the spark plugs, set the
electrode clearance and install.
Check distributor to coil connections.
1. Clean and install the spark plugs.
2. See the Engine section for your
engine.
3. Replace the seals.
Clean the spark plugs, set electrode
clearance and install.
Check the seals. Replace if
necessary. Clean, set electrode
clearance and install the spark plugs.
Avoid sudden acceleration with full
throttle after long periods of low
speed driving. Replace the spark
plugs.
1. Check the cooling system.
2. Lean air–fuel mixture.
3. Check the heat range of the spark
plugs for too hot.
4. Check ignition timing.
5. Check the torque value of the
spark plugs to make sure they are
correctly installed.
Replace the spark plugs. Set
electrode clearance to the correct
value.
77
Fuel Pump, Replacement
11
(See FIGURE 23.)
1
WARNING
To reduce the risk of fire and personal injury, do not
operate the fuel pump outside of the fuel tank. The
2
pump can make sparks and cause an explosion.
4 7
1. Disconnect the negative cable at the battery.
2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to release pressure in the fuel 8
tank.
9
3. Disconnect the fuel lines at the access plate on the fuel 3
tank. Disconnect the wiring harness from the TBI. 5
10
4. Remove the capscrews that hold the access plate to the
fuel tank. Remove the access plate, fuel pump and send-
ing unit, if attached. 6
5. Inspect the fittings and fuel lines that are inside the
fuel tank for damage. Inspect the screen for damage. 4

6. Install the fuel pump and fittings on the access plate.

Install the float assembly.
12 11
7. Use a new seal ring and install the access plate on the
tank. Tighten the capscrews for the access plate. 13
8. Connect the fuel lines to the fittings. Connect the wire
connectors. 12

14

15
1. WIRING HARNESS
2. COVER
3. SHUT–OFF VALVE
4. OUTLET FUEL LINE
5. ACCESS PLATE
6. SEAL RING
7. CAPSCREW
8. WASHER
9. O–RING 12. CLAMP (2)
10. SENDING UNIT (NOT 13. FLEXIBLE
ON ALL UNITS) COUPLING
11. RETURN FUEL LINE 14. FUEL PUMP
AND FUEL PUMP AND MOTOR
SUPPORT 15. SCREEN

FIGURE 23. FUEL PUMP ARRANGEMENT

78
ENGINE COOLANT SENSOR 5. Connect the electrical connector. Connect the vacuum
hose from the MAP sensor to the fitting at the TBI unit..
Replacement PCV SYSTEM
(See FIGURE 18. and FIGURE 24.)
Replacement (See FIGURE 25.)
WARNING
The coolant can be very hot. Use caution to prevent 1. Remove the PCV valve retainer plug from rocker arm
personal injury. cover and remove valve from rocker cover.
2. Install the PCV valve in vacuum hose.
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable. Disconnect the
connector at the CTS. 3. Run engine at idle speed.

2. Use a wrench and carefully loosen the CTS from the
coolant manifold.
3. Use a liquid sealant on the threads and install the CTS
in its hole in the coolant manifold. Tighten the CTS care-
fully to 30 N.m (22 lbf ft)..
4. Connect the connector at the CTS. Connect the bat-
tery negative cable.
5. Fill the radiator with coolant as required.
4. Put your thumb over end of PCV valve to check for
vacuum. If there is no vacuum at the PCV valve, check
for restrictions in the hoses, manifold port or PCV valve.
Replace damaged parts.
5. Turn OFF the engine and remove valve. Shake valve
and listen for movement of needle inside the valve. If
valve does not move, replace the valve. Connect the
hose between the PCV valve and the fitting on the intake
manifold.

2 4 3
2 1 5
1
3

1. TEMPERATURE SENSOR 1. GROMMET

2. ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR 2. PCV VALVE
3. LOCK TAB 3. CLAMP
FIGURE 24. COOLANT TEMPERATURE 4. RETAINER
SENSOR (CTS) 5. HOSE

FIGURE 25. PCV SYSTEM

MAP SENSOR
WIRING
Replacement (See FIGURE 18.) NOTE: The most common fault that occurs in an elec-
tronic engine control system is caused by a bad connec-
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect the
tion in the wiring. Work carefully and make sure that
electrical connector.
connectors are not damaged during troubleshooting.
2. Remove the mounting screws and disconnect the vac- The ECM wiring harness electrically connects the ECM
uum hose. to solenoids, switches, and sensors in the engine com-
3. Inspect the electrical connectors and terminals for partment. A wiring harness must be replaced with a wire
damage. harness that has the same part number. If a repair (“wire
splice”) must be made to a wiring harness, replacement
4. Install the sensor on the bracket. wire must have a high temperature insulation.

79
The signal wires in the electronic control system have a
low voltage and low current. All wire splices must be
high quality so that a fault is not made in the circuit by
the wire splice. Use solder on the wire splices when pos-
sible.
Some connectors are made as a one–piece unit. A dam-
aged one–piece connector must be replaced with a wire
splice into the wiring harness. Some connectors can be
replaced or a terminal within the connectors can be re-
placed. These connectors are described in the para-
graphs under “Connectors and Terminals”.
Connectors And Terminals
Be careful when using a probe to check the voltages on
the terminals in a connector. It is easy to cause a short–
circuit between two terminals with opposite voltages.
TWISTED CABLE WITH SHIELD
DRAIN WIRE
OUTER JACKET
MYLAR
1. REMOVE OUTER JACKET
2. REMOVE ALUMINUM/MYLAR TAPE. DO NOT
REMOVE MYLAR
3. DISCONNECT WIRES AND REMOVE
INSULATION AS REQUIRED
DRAIN WIRE
4. CONNECT WIRES USING CLIPS AND
SOLDER. USE TAPE AS INSULATION
ON EACH CONNECTION.
5. COVER CONNECTION WITH MYLAR.
WRAP DRAIN WIRE AROUND AREA.
6. COVER AREA WITH TAPE
FIGURE 26. WIRING HARNESS REPAIR
80
Electronic components can be easily damaged by a
short–circuit. Always use a jumper between connectors
when checking circuits. Never damage the insulation or
a seal on a connector when making a check or doing
troubleshooting. The “Connector Test Adapter Kit” has
a variation of adapters and connectors that can be used
when troubleshooting a circuit.
When Troubleshooting, open–circuits are often difficult
to see because of dirt, corrosion, or a terminal that is not
in alignment in its socket. When Troubleshooting for an
open–circuit, always check for loose connections and a
terminal that can have corrosion. A fault that is not regu-
lar nor constant can also be caused by a loose connection
or a terminal that has corrosion.
If a connector must be repaired, make sure of the type of
connector. Some of the smaller connectors can look
similar, but have a different construction.
TWISTED WIRES
1. FIND DAMAGED WIRE
2. REMOVE INSULATION AS REQUIRED
3. CONNECT TWO WIRES TOGETHER
AND SOLDER
4. USE TAPE AS INSULATION
5. TWIST WIRES AND TAPE TOGETHER
 d. Use the removal tool to move the lock tab and re-
lease the terminal from its seat.
Push–to–Seat — Gently pull the wire to remove
1
the terminal from the back of the connector.
Pull–to–Seat — Gently push the wire to remove
the terminal through the front of the connector.

CAUTION
Work carefully and do not use enough force to dam-
age the terminal or the connector.
2
3 e. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage.
4 Make repairs as necessary.
1. WIRE
2. TERMINAL f. If the terminal will be used again, make sure the
3. LOCK TAB
4. HYSTER TOOL KIT HYS1004 lock tab is correctly bent so that the terminal will
be locked in the connector again.
FIGURE 27. MICRO–PACK CONNECTOR

The Micro–Pack connector is shown in FIGURE 27.

This connector is normally used to connect the wire har- 3 2
ness to the ECM.
1
Metri–Pack connectors come in several sizes and
types that are used on the wire harness. These connec-
tors are made by Packard Electric Company. The typical 4
connectors used on lift trucks are No. 56, No. 150, No.
280, No. 480, and No. 630. Some of these connectors are 1. PICK
“push–to–seat” and others are “pull–to–seat”. Make 2. LOCK TAB
sure the connector is correctly identified before it is 3. TERMINAL
4. CONNECTOR BODY
changed. The terminals can be damaged if they are re-
moved or installed wrong. FIGURE 28. METRI–PACK “PUSH–TO–SEAT”
CONNECTOR
NOTE: Not all Metri–Pack connectors have a seal.

Do the following procedures to remove and install a ter-

minal: 4

a. Open any secondary locks that hold the wires and 1

seals in their positions. Slide the seals along the
wires from the ends of the connector.
b. Hold the wire and use it to push the terminal to its
forward position in the connector body. Hold the
2 3
terminal in this position.
1. PICK 3. TERMINAL
c. Find the lock tab for the terminal in the connector 2. LOCK TAB 4. CONNECTOR BODY
channel. Push a removal tool (pick) of the correct
FIGURE 29. METRI–PACK “PULL–TO–SEAT”
size into the connector channel. See FIGURE 28.
CONNECTOR
and FIGURE 29.

81
 h. Push the seals into their position and install any
1 secondary locks.

4
d=0

1 1

4 5

3 2
1 d = GREATER THAN 0

1. FEMALE TERMINAL 1
2. LOCK TAB
3. HYSTER TOOL KIT
HYS1004
4. CONNECTOR 2
BODY
5. SEAL

1. CONTACT TAB
FIGURE 30. METRI–PACK SERIES 150
THE GREATER THE DISTANCE “d”, A POSSIBLE
“PULL–TO–SEAT” TERMINAL REMOVAL
FAULT WILL OCCUR IN THE CONNECTION.
g. Push the terminal into the connector channel.
FIGURE 31. METRI–PACK SERIES TERMINAL
Make sure that the lock tab correctly locks the ter- INSPECTION
minal in position.

82
The Weather–Pack connectors all have a rubber seal
at the rear end of the connector. All Weather–Pack con- 1. OPEN SECONDARY LOCK HINGE ON
CONNECTOR.
nectors have a round barrel shape around the terminal.
This connector is used in the engine compartment to FEMALE MALE
protect against moisture and dirt which can cause corro- CONNECTOR CONNECTOR
sion and a fault in the voltage signal. These connectors
normally have the low voltage and current used by the
electronic control system. The repair of this type of con- SECONDARY
nector is shown in FIGURE 32. and FIGURE 33. LOCK HINGE

Use a remover tool (from Hyster Tool Kit HYS1004 or 2. REMOVE TERMINAL USING TOOL
equivalent) to remove the pin and sleeve terminals.
PUSH TO
These terminals can easily be damaged during removal RELEASE
if the correct tool is not used. The terminal must then be
TERMINAL TOOL
replaced.
When making repairs on these connectors, make sure
3. CUT WIRE BEHIND CABLE SEAL
that the terminals are all in their seats correctly and the
sealing rings are installed. These connectors must be
correctly installed and in good condition so that the elec- WIRE
tronic engine control operates correctly. SEAL

1 3 4. REPLACE TERMINAL
a. Put new seal on wire.
b. Remove 5 mm (0.2 in) of insulation from
wire.
c. Install terminal over wire and seal.
2
“PUSH–TO–SEAT” TERMINAL, FEMALE

4 1 SEAL

5. PUSH TERMINAL AND CONNECTOR

UNTIL THEY ARE ENGAGED.
2 6. CLOSE SECONDARY LOCK HINGE
“PUSH–TO–SEAT” TERMINAL, MALE
FIGURE 33. WEATHER–PACK TERMINAL
1 REPAIR
3
5

2 4
6
1. TERMINAL 4. SEAL
2. LOCK TAB 5. REMOVAL TOOL
3. WIRE 6. CONNECTOR BODY

FIGURE 32. WEATHER–PACK TERMINAL AND

CONNECTOR

83
 5 AMP

CIRCUIT BREAKER

FIGURE 34. ECM WIRING DIAGRAM (1 of 2)

84
FIGURE 23.ECM WIRING DIAGRAM (2 OF 2)

85
 PIN
NO. 16
PIN
NO. 1

PIN
PIN
ECM INPUT CONNECTOR (J1) NO. 17
NO. 32
ECM PIN NUMBER CIRCUIT (WIRE) CODE CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
J1–1 Not Used Not Used
J1–2 GQ Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
J1–3 Not Used Not Used
J1–4 Not Used Not Used
J1–5 Not Used Not Used
J1–6 Not Used Not Used
J1–7 HS Fault Analysis Request – DLC “B”
J1–8 Not Used Not Used
J1–9 HY MAP Signal – MAP Terminal “B”
J1–10 GU TPS Signal – TPS Terminal “C”
J1–11 JM ECM Ignition – from fuse
J1–12 Not Used Not Used
J1–13 HV TPS Ground – TPS Terminal “B”
J1–14 HQ System Ground
J1–15 GT TPS 5 Volt Source – TPS Terminal “A”
J1–16 HD ECB Battery +, Long Term Memory
J1–17 Not Used Not Used
J1–18 HZ Serial Data – DLC Terminal “M”
J1–19 Not Used Not Used
J1–20 Not Used Not Used
J1–21 Not Used Not Used
J1–22 Not Used Not Used
J1–23 Not Used Not Used
J1–24 Not Used Not Used
J1–25 Not Used Not Used
J1–26 Not Used Not Used
J1–27 Not Used Not Used
J1–28 Not Used Not Used
J1–29 GR MAP and Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Ground
J1–30 HQA System Ground
J1–31 HA MAP 5 Volt Source – MAP Terminal “C”
J1–32 HC ECM Battery +, Long Term Memory

86
 PIN
NO. 16
PIN
NO. 1

PIN
PIN
ECM OUTPUT CONNECTOR (J2) NO. 17
NO. 32
ECM PIN NUMBER CIRCUIT (WIRE) CODE CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
J2–1 Not Used Not Used
J2–2 Not Used Not Used
J2–3 Not Used Not Used
J2–4 Not Used Not Used
J2–5 Not Used Not Used
J2–6 HX Ignition Reference Ground
J2–7 Not Used Not Used
J2–8 GY Ignition Reference Signal
J2–9 JA Electronic Driver, Fuel Pump Relay
J2–10 Not Used Not Used
J2–11 Not Used Not Used
J2–12 Not Used Not Used
J2–13 HJ Electronic Driver, IAC Coil “A” Low
J2–14 HG Electronic Driver, IAC Coil “B” High
J2–15 HN ECM System Ground
J2–16 Not Used Not Used
J2–17 Not Used Not Used
J2–18 Not Used Not Used
J2–19 Not Used Not Used
J2–20 JG ECM System Ground
J2–21 JBA Electronic Driver, Fuel Injector
J2–22 Not Used Not Used
J2–23 GW Ignition Control, Timing Signal
J2–24 GZ Electronic Driver, By–Pass
J2–25 Not Used Not Used
J2–26 Not Used Not Used
J2–27 Not Used Not Used
J2–28 HK Electronic Driver, IAC Coil “A” High
J2–29 JT Electronic Driver, IAC Coil “B” Low
J2–30 JR Electronic Driver, Governor Control
J2–31 AZ Electronic Driver, Malfunction Indicator Lamp
J2–32 Not Used Not Used

87
 SPECIAL TOOLS
“SCAN” Tool
Reads problem codes from the ECM memory. Used to
analyze and Troubleshoot components and the EMC
operation of the electronic engine control system.
“SCAN” tool will also record data stream information
when the engine is operating. This procedure will record
information that is not regular nor constant or that only
occurs during some conditions.

OTC Part No. 3313

Connector Test Adapter Kit

Used to make electrical test connections in the
“Weather–Pack”, “Metri–Pack”, and “Micro–Pack”
terminals.

OTC Part No. KMJ35616A

Circuit Tester
Used to check relays and solenoids before they are
connected to a new ECM. This tester measures the
circuit resistance and indicates correct or wrong with a
green and a red LED. An amber LED indicates current
OTC Part No.KMJ34636 polarity. This tester can also be used as a test light
(without internal battery).
Spark Tester
Used to check secondary ignition voltage. Also called an
ST125.

OTC Part No.7230

Fuel Pressure Gauge

Used to check fuel pressure from fuel pump to TBI. Has
special fitting to fit the Schroeder test port in the fuel line
or Hyster Company lift trucks.
Hyster Part No. HYS1003

OTC Part No.3320 Tester for Idle Air Control and Idle Speed Control
The TBI units do not have external adjustments for idle
speed nor idle air control. This tester is required to set the
idle air control and the idle speed control electronically.

88
 SPECIAL TOOLS
OTC Part No.3053 Signal Test Lights for Idle Air Control and Idle Speed
Control
Signal test lights that can be used with the Tester for Idle
Air Control and Idle Speed Control Part No. 3320.

OTC Part No.7059 for Vacuum Pump, Hand Operated

Hi–Impact plastic model Use gauge to check engine manifold vacuum and to test
vacuum sensors, valves and solenoids.
OTC Part No.7559
for metal model

Remover Tool Remover Tool Tool Kit for Terminal Repair

J35689/BT8446–A J28742–A/BT8234–A Terminals can not be removed from their connectors nor
For Terminals In The For Weather–Pack repaired without special tools This kit has the special
150–Series Connectors removal and installation tools and crimping tools required
Metri–Pack to make repairs in Micro–Pack, Metri–Pack, and
Connectors Weather–Pack connectors. This repair kit does not have
the terminals nor the connectors.
Remover Tool
J33095/BT8234–A
For ECM Connector
Terminals
Tool Kit – Hyster Part No. HYS1004
Digital Multimeter
Voltmeter — A minimum impedance of 10 Meg ohms is
required so that the electronic circuit being measured is
accurate.
Ammeter — Can be used to measure current flow in
electronic circuits.
Ohmmeter — Some Ommeters will automatically
change ranges. Other Ohmmeters have range switches.
Many of the multimeters available will also operate as a
tachometer, distributor “dwell”, and a diode tester.

89
 SPECIAL TOOLS
Tachometer
Use a tachometer with an inductive trigger sensor to
check the engine speed.

Test Light (Without Internal Battery)

Used to check for open–circuits, short–circuits, and for
signal voltages in a circuit.

Adjustment Wrench for Minimum Idle Speed

Used to adjust the throttle stop screw on the TBI unit.

90
 INTRODUCTION
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
This section has a description of the electronic engine
control system. An Electronic Control Module (ECM)
is the main component of this control system. The ECM
has sensors give information about engine operation and
the systems it controls. The ECM can do some diagnosis
of itself and of other parts of the system. When a prob-
lem is found, the ECM turns on the “Malfunction Indi-
cator” lamp on the instrument panel and a diagnostic
trouble code will be stored in the ECM memory.
FUEL CONTROL OPERATION
The function of the fuel metering system is to deliver the
correct amount of fuel to the engine under all operating
conditions. Fuel is delivered by the Throttle Body Injec-
tion (TBI) unit, which is controlled by the Electronic
Control Module (ECM), based on certain operating
conditions. These conditions, which include engine
speed, manifold pressure, engine coolant temperature,
and throttle position, determine the “mode” of engine
operation. These modes are: Starting, Clear Excess Fuel
(Clear Flood), Run, Acceleration, Deceleration, and
Fuel Cut–off.
Starting Mode
When the key is first turned ON, the ECM turns “ON”
the fuel pump relay for two seconds, and the fuel pump
builds up fuel pressure at the TBI unit. The ECM then
monitors the coolant temperature, throttle position,
manifold pressure, and ignition signal to determine the
proper air/fuel ratio for starting. This ranges from 1.5:1
at –36°C (–33°F) to 14.7:1 at 94°C (201°F).
Clear Excess Fuel (clear flood) Mode
If the engine does not start from excess fuel, it can be
cleared by pressing the accelerator pedal all the way to
the floor. The ECM then pulses the injector for an air to
fuel ratio of 20:1 or more. The ECM maintains this in-
jector rate as long as the throttle stays wide open and the
engine speed is below 600 rpm. If the throttle position
becomes less than 80%, the ECM returns to the Starting
Mode.
Run Mode
The Run Mode is the mode under which the engine oper-
ates most of the time. In this mode, the engine operates
on normal amounts of fuel.
Acceleration Mode
When the ECM senses rapid increase in throttle position
and manifold pressure, the system enters the Accelera-
tion Mode. In this mode, the ECM gives the extra fuel
needed for smooth acceleration.
Deceleration Mode
When deceleration occurs, the fuel remaining in the in-
take manifold can cause backfiring. When the ECM ob-
serves a fast reduction in throttle opening and a sharp de-
crease in manifold pressure, it causes the system to enter
the Deceleration Mode. In this mode, the ECM reduces
the amount of fuel delivered to the engine. When decel-
eration is very fast, the ECM cuts off fuel completely for
short periods.
Fuel Cut–Off Mode
To prevent possible engine damage from over speed, the
ECM will “cut–off” fuel from the injector at about 3600
rpm. Fuel “cut–off” remains in effect until engine speed
drops below about 3600 rpm. (The governor would nor-
mally not allow the engine to reach this condition.)
SPARK CONTROL OPERATION
The Electronic Ignition (EI) System does not use the
conventional distributor and coil. This ignition system
consists of two separate ignition coils, an ignition mod-
ule, crankshaft sensor, the related connecting wires, and
the Ignition Control (IC) part of the ECM.
This ignition system uses a “waste spark” method of
spark distribution. Each cylinder is connected with the
cylinder that is opposite it. That is, the ignition coils are
made so that cylinders 1 and 4 and cylinders 2 and 3 are
energized at the same time. The spark occurs at the same
time in the cylinder coming up on the compression
stroke and in the cylinder coming up on the exhaust
stroke. The cylinder on the exhaust stroke requires a
small amount of the available energy to fire the spark
plug.
1
 TOP VIEW
1

2 3

15

14

13

12776

10
9
12 11

1. AIR FILTER RESTRICTION SENDER 9. IGNITION FUSE

2. FUEL INJECTOR 10. ECM FUSE
3. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS) 11. FUEL PUMP PRIMER
4. IDLE AIR CONTROL (IAC) 12. GOVERNOR MOTOR
5. FUEL PUMP FUSE 13. WATER TEMPERATURE SENDER (ECM)
6. FUEL INJECTOR FUSE 14. WATER TEMPERATURE SENDER
7. ASSEMBLY LINE DIAGNOSTIC LINK (ALDL) (GAUGE)
8. POWER RECEPTACLE 15. FUEL PUMP RELAY

FIGURE 1. ARRANGEMENT OF COMPONENTS FOR ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROL (1 of 2)

2

SIDE VIEW
7
1 • Crankshaft speed (Engine rpm)
2
3
4 power output. IAC valve changes the air delivered to the
6 areas. One is by the throttle plate and another is the PCV
5
1. MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP)
SENSOR
2. ECM OUTPUT
3. ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE (ECM)
4. DIRECT IGNITION COIL
5. TACH CONNECTOR
6. OIL PRESSURE/FUEL PUMP SWITCH
7. ECM INPUT
FIGURE 1. ARRANGEMENT OF COMPONENTS
FOR ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROL (2 OF 2)
The remaining energy will be used as required by the
cylinder on the compression stroke. The same process is
repeated when the cylinders reverse roles.
The direction of current flow in the in the primary wind-
ing, causes one spark plug to energize from the center
electrode to the side electrode. The other plug energizes
from the side electrode to center electrode.
These systems use the IC signal from the ECM to con-
trol spark timing. Under 400 rpm, the Ignition Control
Module (ICM) controls spark timing (module timing
mode) and over 400 rpm, the ECM controls spark timing
(IC mode).
To correctly control ignition timing, the ECM uses the
following information:
• Engine load (manifold pressure or vacuum)
• Atmospheric (barometric) pressure
• Engine coolant temperature
• Crankshaft position
IDLE SPEED CONTROL
The ECM uses two basic items to control idle rpm. The
Idle Air Control (IAC) valve and spark timing are ad-
justed to give the correct idle rpm. During varying idle
loads and engine temperature the ECM must be able to
keep the engine running at the correct rpm.
Spark timing varies engine speed by varying the engine
engine which also changes the engine output.
Also remember that air can enter the engine in other
valve. Vacuum leaks can affect idle speed.
MAXIMUM RPM CONTROL
In this application there are two items that control maxi-
mum rpm. One is the ECM fuel cut–off, and the other is
a governor system. Fuel cut–off is used only if the gov-
ernor system malfunctions.
Governor speed control is a lower rpm value. This sys-
tem uses a cable drum that is driven by a motor. The mo-
tor is controlled by a governor module. When a cali-
brated rpm is reached, the ECM sends a signal to the
module which in turn runs the motor. The throttle plate
on the throttle body is driven toward the closed position
to limit engine rpm.
COMPONENT OPERATION
Electronic Control Module (ECM)
(See FIGURE 2.)
The Electronic Control Module (ECM) is the control
center of the fuel injection system. It constantly moni-
tors the information from the sensors, and controls the
components and systems which affect engine operation.
The ECM also performs the diagnostic function of the
system. It can sense problems, activate the “Malfunc-
tion Indicator” lamp, and store a diagnostic trouble code
or codes (DTC).
3

FIGURE 2. ECM
Engine Coolant Temperature
(ECT) Sensor (See FIGURE 3.)
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor is a re-
sistor that changes its resistance when the temperature
changes (thermistor). It is installed in the engine coolant
system. Low coolant temperature causes high resis-
tance; 100,000 ohms at –40°C (–40°F). High tempera-
ture causes low resistance; 70 ohms at 130°C (266°F).
The ECM applies 5 volts to the coolant sensor and moni-
tors the voltage on a signal line. The sensor provides a
path to ground through its thermistor. The voltage will
be high when the engine is cold, and low when the en-
gine is hot. By monitoring the voltage, the ECM deter-
mines the engine coolant temperature. Engine coolant
temperature affects most of the ECM functions.
2
1
3
1. TEMPERATURE SENSOR
2. ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
3. LOCK TAB
FIGURE 3. COOLANT TEMPERATURE
SENSOR (CTS)
Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor (See FIGURE 4.)
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor is a
pressure transducer that measures pressure changes in
4
the intake manifold. Pressure changes are the result of
engine load and speed changes. The MAP sensor con-
verts these pressure changes to a signal voltage to the
ECM.
A closed throttle causes a low pressure (high engine vac-
uum) in the intake manifold. This low pressure causes a
low voltage signal from the MAP sensor to the ECM. A
fully opened throttle causes a higher pressure (low en-
gine vacuum) in the intake manifold. This higher pres-
sure causes a higher voltage signal from the MAP sensor
to the ECM. These pressure changes indicate the load on
the engine and sends a signal to the ECM. The ECM then
calculates the spark timing and fuel requirements for
best engine performance.
The MAP sensor also measures barometric pressure
when the key switch is turned to ON and before the en-
gine is started. The ECM “remembers” the barometric
pressure (BARO signal) after the engine is running.
This method enables the ECM to automatically adjust
for different altitudes and atmospheric conditions.
The ECM supplies 5 volts to the MAP sensor and moni-
tors the voltage on a signal line. The sensor provides a
path to ground through its variable resistance. The MAP
sensor signal affects fuel delivery and ignition timing
controls in the ECM.
1
2
1. SENSOR
2. ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
FIGURE 4. MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE
(MAP) SENSOR
FUEL METERING SYSTEM
COMPONENTS
The fuel metering system consists of the following:
• Fuel Supply Components (Fuel tank, pump and
lines).
• Fuel Pump Electrical Circuit
 • Throttle Body Injection (TBI) unit.
Fuel Supply Components
The fuel supply is kept in the fuel tank. An electric fuel
pump, located in the fuel tank, supplies fuel through a
filter to the TBI unit. (See FIGURE 5.) The pump deliv-
ers fuel at a pressure greater than is needed by the injec-
tor. A pressure regulator, part of the TBI assembly,
keeps fuel available to the injector. Fuel that is not used
is returned to the fuel tank by a separate line.
1 2
4 2
1. OUTLET FUEL LINE
2. RETURN FUEL LINE
AND FUEL PUMP
ÂÂÂÂÂ
ÂÂÂÂÂ
SUPPORT
ÂÂÂÂÂ
3. CLAMP (2)
4. FLEXIBLE COUPLING
ÂÂÂÂÂ
5. FUEL PUMP AND
MOTOR
6. SCREEN
6
FIGURE 5. FUEL PUMP
Fuel Pump Electrical Circuit
When the ignition switch is turned to the ON position
(engine not running), the ECM turns the fuel pump relay
“ON” for two seconds. This action quickly raises the
fuel pressure to the fuel injector. If the engine is not
started within two seconds, the ECM deenergizes the
fuel pump relay and the fuel pump goes to OFF. When
the engine is cranked by the starter, the ECM energizes
the fuel pump relay again so that the fuel pump operates.
As a parallel system to the fuel pump relay, the fuel
pump also can be turned “ON” by the oil pressure
switch. The oil pressure sender has two internal circuits.
One circuit operates the oil pressure indicator or gage in
the instrument cluster, and the other is a normally open
switch that closes when oil pressure reaches approxi-
mately 28 kPa (4 psi). If the fuel pump relay has a fault,
the oil pressure switch runs the fuel pump.
Throttle Body Injection (TBI) Unit
(See FIGURE 6.)
The TBI unit consists of two major assemblies; the
Throttle Body and the Fuel Meter Body. The parts of the
Throttle Body are the Throttle Position (TP) Sensor, Idle
Air Control (IAC) Valve, Throttle Valve and the Tube
Module Assembly. The Fuel Meter Body has the Fuel
Injector and the Fuel Pressure Regulator
1
4 6
5
1. FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR
2. FUEL METER ASSEMBLY
3. FUEL INJECTOR
4. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
5. VACUUM PORT MODULE
6. IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE
FIGURE 6. THROTTLE BODY INJECTION
(TBI) UNIT
Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
The Throttle Position (TP) Sensor is a potentiometer
that is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body.
It senses the position of the throttle plate and sends that
information to the ECM. This information permits the
ECM to generate the correct pulses to the fuel injector
for fuel control. If the throttle position sensor indicates a
fully opened throttle to the ECM, the ECM then in-
creases the pulse width to the fuel injector.
The TP Sensor electrical circuit has a 5 volt supply line
and a ground path line, both from the ECM. A third wire
5
is used as a signal line to the ECM. By monitoring the
AIR FLOW
voltage on this signal line, the ECM calculates throttle 1
position. As the throttle plate angle is changed (acceler-
ator pedal moved), the signal voltage of the TP Sensor
also changes. At a closed throttle position, the signal of
the TP Sensor is below 1.25volts. As the throttle plate
opens, the signal voltage increases, so that at wide open
throttle, it is approximately 5 volts.
2
1

2
1. THROTTLE BODY
3 2. LINEAR DC STEP MOTOR
3. PINTLE VALVE
1. THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY
2. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR FIGURE 8. IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE
3. THROTTLE SHAFT
FIGURE 7. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR Fuel Injector

Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
(See FIGURE 8.)
The idle speed of the engine is controlled by the ECM
through the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. The idle air
control valve has a linear DC step motor that moves a
pintle valve to control the idle air system. See
FIGURE 8. The step motor moves the pintle one step for
each “count” that it receives from the ECM. Each volt-
age pulse from the ECM to move the pintle valve is a
count. This movement of the pintle valve controls the air
flow around the throttle plate. (When the pintle valve is
EXTENDED, it decreases air flow and when RE-
TRACTED, it increases air flow.) This air flow controls
the engine idle speed at all operating temperatures. A
minimum setting is for engine idle at sea level and nor-
mal conditions. A heavier load from the alternator, hy-
draulic pump or other accessories will cause the ECM to
set a higher number of counts on the pintle valve.
The number of counts that indicates the position of the
pintle valve can be seen when the “scan” tool is con-
nected for troubleshooting.
Pintle Extended = Decrease rpm = Lower Counts.
Pintle Retracted = Increase rpm = Higher Counts.
The fuel injector is a solenoid that is controlled by the
ECM. When the ECM energizes the solenoid, a normal-
ly closed ball valve is lifted off its seat. The fuel is under
constant pressure and is injected in a cone spray pattern
into the bore of the throttle body, above the throttle plate.
The fuel that is not used by the fuel injector flows
through the pressure regulator and returns to the fuel
tank.
Fuel Pressure Regulator
The fuel pressure regulator is part of the fuel metering
assembly of the TBI. The function of the fuel pressure
regulator is to maintain a constant fuel pressure at the in-
jector during all operating modes. An air chamber and a
fuel chamber are separated by a diaphragm–operated re-
lief valve and a calibrated spring. Fuel pressure at the
fuel injector is controlled by the difference in pressure
on each side of the diaphragm. The fuel pressure from
the fuel pump on one side of the diaphragm acts against
the force of the calibrated spring on the other side of the
diaphragm. The system operates in a pressure range of
62 to 90 kPa (9 to 13 psi).
The fuel meter assembly includes a vapor relief hole that
relieves system pressure when the engine is turned OFF.

6
This hole also helps release vapors from the injector and
regulator for starting a hot engine.
IGNITION SYSTEM (See FIGURE 9.)
Crankshaft Sensor
The ignition system uses a magnetic crankshaft sensor
that is mounted in the engine block. The sensor extends
into the block within approximately 1.3 mm (0.050in) of
the crankshaft reluctor. The reluctor is a special wheel
cast on the crankshaft with seven slots machined into it,
six of which are equally spaced (60° apart). A seventh
slot is 10° from one of the other slots and creates a
“sync–pulse”. As the reluctor rotates as part of the
crankshaft, the slots change the magnetic field of the
sensor, creating an induced voltage pulse.
4
1
2 3
1. INTEGRATED IGNITION COILS
AND IGNITION MODULE
2. CRANKSHAFT SENSOR
3. CRANKSHAFT RELUCTOR
4. SPARK PLUG (4)
FIGURE 9. DIRECT IGNITION SYSTEM
The pulses created by the crankshaft sensor cause the
ignition control module (ICM) to send reference signals
to the ECM. These pulses are used to indicate the speed
and position of the crankshaft. The ICM continues to
send these reference pulses to the ECM at a rate of one
per each 180° of crankshaft rotation. The ECM acti-
vates the fuel injector by sensing every other reference
pulse beginning at a crankshaft position of 120° after top
dead center.
By comparing the time between pulses, the ICM can see
the pulse from the seventh slot “sync pulse” and start the
timing that fires the ignition coils. The second crank
pulse following the “sync pulse” tells the ICM to fire the
number 2 and 3 ignition coil and the fifth crank pulse
tells the ICM to fire the number 1 and 4 ignition coil.
Ignition Coils
Two separate coils are installed on the ICM assembly.
Each coil provides the spark for two plugs at the same
time (Waste Spark Distribution).
Ignition Control Module (ICM)
The Ignition Control Module (ICM) monitors the crank
sensor signals. The ICM uses these signals to send a ref-
erence signal to the ECM so that correct spark and fuel
injector control can be maintained during all operating
conditions.
During cranking, the ICM monitors the “sync–pulse” to
begin the ignition sequence. At engine speeds below
400 rpm the ICM controls spark advance by energizing
each of the two coils based on engine speed only. Above
400 rpm the ECM controls the Ignition Control (IC) sig-
nal and compensates for all operating conditions. The
ICM must receive a “sync–pulse” and then a crank sig-
nal in that order to let the engine to start.
Ignition Control (IC)
This system uses the same Ignition Control (IC) to ECM
circuits that distributor type systems use. Following is a
brief description for each of the EST circuits.
Ignition Reference – Circuit GY
The crankshaft sensor sends a signal to the ignition con-
trol module that results in a reference pulse being sent to
the ECM. The ECM uses this signal to determine crank-
shaft position and speed.
Ignition Reference Ground – Circuit HX
This wire is makes sure that the ground circuit has no
voltage difference between the ignition control module
ground and the ground for the ECM. A bad ground con-
nection can affect engine performance.
7
Bypass – Circuit GZ open them indirectly. The first drum is turned by the ac-
celerator pedal. A spring located inside the drum pushes
At approximately 400 rpm, the ECM applies 5 volts to
on the second drum. This action allows the operator to
this circuit to switch spark timing control from the igni-
open the throttle when under heavy load, but the motor
tion control module to the ECM.
will rotate the drum, against the spring, to close the
IC – Circuit GW throttle plate under light load–high rpm. Using engine
speed and load, the governor controls the actual position
The ECM uses the reference signal to send a signal (IC) of the throttle plate, within that range of possible open-
that will be sent back to the module. This signal is the ing.
timing that the ECM has calculated from its different in-
puts. Therefore, while the engine is under 400 rpm, the
module controls the ignition timing. When the engine
speed is more than 400 rpm, the ECM applies 5 volts to
the bypass line to switch the timing to ECM control (IC). 1 3
7
4
The ICM is not repairable. When a module is replaced,
the remaining ignition components must be transferred.

2
3
1

5
4 6

1. COIL FOR CYLINDERS 2 AND 3 8

2. COIL FOR CYLINDERS 1 AND 4
3. DIS MODULE
4. CRANK SENSOR
FIGURE 10. IGNITION PARTS 1. SENSOR INPUTS
2. ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE (ECM)
3. KEY SWITCH
GOVERNOR SYSTEM (See FIGURE 11.) 4. GOVERNOR CONTROL MODULE
5. GOVERNOR
The governor motor is an electric DC motor that is actu- 6. TBI UNIT
ated and controlled by the Electronic Control Module 7. THROTTLE (MONOTROL) PEDAL
(ECM) through the governor control module (governor 8. THROTTLE CABLES
motor driver circuit). The governor prevents engine FIGURE 11. GOVERNOR SYSTEM
speeds above specifications when operating with light
loads, and permits the throttle to open for full power for
The engine sensors, such as the Throttle Position (TP)
heavy loads.
Sensor, Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, and
The components of the governor system are the ECM, crankshaft reference pulses (rpm) gives constant in-
the governor control module and the governor motor as- formation on engine operating conditions to the Elec-
sembly and cables. The cables and drum allow the tronic Control Module (ECM). The ECM uses the in-
throttle control to be split. This split arrangement allows formation on throttle plate position and engine rpm to
the governor motor drum to close the throttle plate, yet determine whether or not governed operation is needed.

8
At low engine speeds, below calibration rpm, the gover- • Oil in the air filter
nor drive motor is not energized. At higher engine
speeds, above calibration rpm, where the governor is
needed, the ECM sends a signal to the governor control C
A
module to increase current flow to the governor motor. B
The governor motor rotates the drum and this causes the D
throttle plate to rotate toward the closed position. Con-
trol of the throttle plate is determined by the TP Sensor
and engine speed signals to the ECM. When engine load
increases and rpm decreases, the electrical current to the
motor is reduced by the ECM through the governor con-
trol module, thus allowing the throttle plate to open far-
ther.

POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION

(See FIGURE 12.)

The Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system is A. PCV VALVE

used as a vent for vapors from the crankcase. Clean air B. PCV VALVE
from the air cleaner is supplied to the crankcase, mixed HOSE
C. AIR FILTER
with gases from the valve cover. This mixture then goes D. CRANKCASE
through the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve VENT HOSE
into the intake manifold. For correct engine idle, the
PCV valve restricts the flow when there is high vacuum
at the intake manifold. CLEAN AIR
MIXTURE OF
The incorrect operation of the PCV system can be: AIR AND
• Rough idle FUMES
• Stalling or slow idle speed
• High idle speed FIGURE 12. POSITIVE CRANKCASE
• Oil leak VENTILATION SYSTEM

9
 INTRODUCTION
GENERAL
This section has the description and the repair proce-
dures for the instrument cluster. Information on the
steering column is in the following sections: STEER-
ING HOUSING AND CONTROL UNIT, 1600 SRM
512 for the S/H2.00–3.20XM (S/H40–65XM); and
STEERING HOUSING, 1600 SRM 565 for the
S/H1.25–1.75XM, S/H2.00XMS (S/H25–35XM,
S/H40XMS.)
DESCRIPTION (See FIGURE 1.)
The instrument cluster is installed on the steering hous-
ing. The instrument cluster has a series of gauges and in-
dicator lights that help let the operator know about the
condition of the lift truck and its systems. A list of the
gauges and indicator lights and their operation is shown
in TABLE 1.

5 6 7
4

8
11 13 15
2 17 9
14 16
19
10
18 12
1

FIGURE 1. INSTRUMENT CLUSTER

TABLE 1. INSTRUMENT CLUSTER (See FIGURE 1.)

ITEM
ITEM FUNCTION
NO.
1 Fuel Gauge This gauge indicates the amount of fuel in the gasoline or diesel fuel
tank. The sending unit for the fuel gauge is in the fuel tank. If the fuel
gauge does not work, check the wiring or replace the sending unit or
gauge. To check the wiring, see the section for DIAGRAMS.
2 Coolant This gauge indicates engine coolant temperature when the key switch is
Temperature in the ON position. During normal operation the gauge needle will be in
Gauge the green area. The sending unit for the coolant temperature gauge is in
the cylinder head. If the temperature gauge does not work, check the
wiring or replace the sending unit or gauge. To check the wiring, see the
section for DIAGRAMS.

CAUTION
Do not continue to operate the lift truck when the gauge indicates
that the engine is too hot (needle in the red zone).

1
ITEM
ITEM FUNCTION
NO.
3 Hourmeter The hourmeter operates when the key switch is in the ON position.
Periodic Maintenance recommendations are based on these hours.
4 Left–Hand The light is on when the turn indicator lever is in the left turn position.
Turn Indicator
(Optional)
5 Warning Light, The light will be ON when the key switch is ON and the engine is not
Alternator running. The light must go OFF when the engine is running. If the light
does not function correctly, check the alternator as described in the
section for the ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. To check the wiring, see the
section for DIAGRAMS.

CAUTION
Do not continue to operate the lift truck if the red light is ON at
engine speeds above idle.
6 Warning Light, The red light is ON when the key switch is in the START position and
Transmission must go OFF when the engine is running. The sending unit for the tem-
Oil Temperature perature light is at the bottom of the transmission housing, on the front
side. If the temperature light does not work, check the wiring or replace
the sending unit or light. To check the wiring, see the section for DIA-
GRAMS.

CAUTION
Do not continue to operate the lift truck if the red light is ON.

7 Warning Light, The red light is ON when the key switch is in the ON position and must
Engine Oil go OFF when the engine is running. The sending unit for the warning
Pressure light is in the engine block. If the warning light does not work, check the
wiring or replace the sending unit or light. To check the wiring, see the
section for DIAGRAMS.

CAUTION
Stop the engine immediately if the red light is ON while the engine
is running.

8 Warning Light, The red light is ON when the key switch is in the START position and
Brake Fluid must go OFF when the engine is running. If the light is ON when the en-
Level gine is running, the brake fluid level in the reservoir is low. There is a
float in the master cylinder that actuates the warning light. If the light
does not work, check the wiring, the master cylinder or replace the light.
To check the master cylinder, see the section for the BRAKE SYSTEM.
To check the wiring, see the section for DIAGRAMS.

CAUTION
Do not continue to operate the lift truck if the light is ON during op-
eration.

2
ITEM
ITEM FUNCTION
NO.
9 Warning Light, The red light is ON when the key switch is in the START position and
Coolant Level must go OFF when the engine is running. If the light is ON when the en-
in the Radiator gine is running, the level of the coolant in the radiator is too low. The
sending unit for the warning light is in the top of the radiator. If the warn-
ing light does not work, check the wiring or replace the sending unit or
light. To check the wiring, see the section for DIAGRAMS.

CAUTION
Do not continue to operate the lift truck if the light is ON during op-
eration.
10 Warning Light, The red light is ON for ten seconds anytime the key switch is put in the
Fasten Seat Belt ON position. This warning light is activated by a switch in the seat. If the
light does not work correctly, check the switch, wiring or replace the cir-
cuit board. To check the wiring, see the section for DIAGRAMS.

WARNING
Always fasten the seat belt when operating the lift truck.

11 Warning Light, The red light is ON when the key switch is in the START position and
Water in Fuel Filter must go OFF when the engine is running. If the light is ON when the
(Diesel Only) engine is running, there is water in the fuel filter. The sending unit for
the warning light is in the fuel filter. If the warning light does not work,
check the wiring or replace the sending unit or light. To check the wir-
ing, see the section for DIAGRAMS.

12 Indicator Light, The red light is ON when the key switch is ON and the glow plugs
Cold Start are activated. The length of time that the light is ON (glow plugs acti-
(Diesel Only) vated) is determined by the temperature of the engine. When the
light goes out, the engine can be started. When the starter is crank-
ing, the light will come ON again until the starter is off and the engine
is running.

13 Malfunction This light will be ON when the key switch is ON and the engine is not
Indicator Lamp running. This light will illuminate when the ECM computer senses a
(Only on units fault in the operation of the engine. If the engine will start, the opera-
with tion of the engine will not be correct until the fault is corrected. If this
GM 2.2L engine) light is ON when the engine is running, a trained service person must
make repairs and adjustments. See the sections for ELECTRONIC
ENGINE CONTROL.
14 Indicator Light, The red light is ON when the key switch is in the START position and
Low LPG Fuel must go OFF when the engine is running. If the light is ON when the
Level engine is running, the fuel level in the tank is low. The sending unit
for the light is in the fuel line at the fuel filter. If the warning light does
not work, check the wiring or replace the sending unit or light. To
check the wiring, see the section for DIAGRAMS.

15 Indicator Light, The red light is ON when the key switch is in the START position and
Air Filter Restriction must go OFF when the engine is running. If the light is ON when the
engine is running, the air cleaner has a restriction and needs cleaning.
The sending unit for the light is in the canister for the air filter. If the
light does not work, check the wiring or replace the sending unit or
light. To check the wiring, see the section for DIAGRAMS.

3
ITEM
ITEM FUNCTION
NO.
16 Right–Hand The light is on when the turn indicator lever is in the right turn position.
Turn Indicator
(Optional)
17 Engine Oil This gauge indicates the pressure of the oil in the engine. During normal
Pressure Gauge operation the gauge needle will be in the green area. The sending unit
for the gauge is in the engine block. If the gauge does not work, check
the wiring or replace the sending unit or gauge. To check the wiring, see
the section for DIAGRAMS.

CAUTION
Do not continue to operate the lift truck when the gauge indicates
low oil pressure (needle in the red area).
18 Voltmeter This gauge indicates the output of the alternator. During normal opera-
tion the gauge needle will be in the green area. If the gauge does not
work correctly, check the alternator as described in the ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM. See the section for DIAGRAMS to check the wiring.

CAUTION
Do not continue to operate the lift truck when the gauge indicates
in the yellow or red areas of the gauge.
19 Key The key switch has three positions:
Switch 1
2 No. 1 Position: OFF position. De–energizes all electric circuits except
for the horn.
No. 2 Position: ON position. Energizes all electric circuits except
the starter circuit. The key switch will be in this position during nor-
3 mal operation.
No. 3 Position: START position. Energizes the starter motor for start-
ing the engine. A spring returns the key to position No. 2 (ON position)
when the key is released.
NOTE: There is a mechanical lockout that prevents the key switch
from being returned to the START position without first being returned
to the OFF position.

4
 REPAIRS
REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY
(See FIGURE 2. and FIGURE 3.)
CAUTION
To prevent damage to electrical components, discon-
nect the negative battery cable before removing the
covers.
1. Remove the steering control unit as described in the
following sections: STEERING HOUSING AND
CONTROL UNIT, 1600 SRM 512 for the
S/H2.00–3.20XM (S/H40–65XM); and STEERING
HOUSING, 1600 SRM 565 for the S/H1.25–1.75XM,
S/H2.00XMS (S/H25–35XM, S/H40XMS.)
2. Disconnect the two wiring harnesses at the instrument
cluster.
3. Remove the screws that hold the instrument cluster to
the steering housing.
3. Install the steering control unit and cover as
described in the following sections: STEERING
HOUSING AND CONTROL UNIT, 1600 SRM 512
for the S/H2.00–3.20XM (S/H40–65XM) and the
S/H1.50–2.00XMS (S/H30–20XMS); and STEER-
ING HOUSING, 1600 SRM 565 for the
S/H1.25–1.75XM, S/H2.00XMS (S/H25–35XM,
S/H40XMS.) Connect the battery. Check that the
gauges and indicators operate as described.
1. INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
2. WIRING HARNESS
(24 PIN CONNECTOR)
3. WIRING HARNESS
(6 PIN CONNECTOR)
1
2

4. Remove the screws that hold the cover to the housing. 3

Replace parts in the cluster as necessary. The parts in the
cluster cannot be repaired.

ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION

(See FIGURE 2. and FIGURE 3.)

1. Install the parts in the instrument cluster that were re-

moved or replaced as shown in FIGURE 3. Make sure
the seal is installed between the housing and the cover.

2. Install the instrument cluster on the steering housing.

Install and tighten the four capscrews. Connect the two FIGURE 2. INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
wiring harnesses at the instrument cluster. MOUNTING

5
 2

7 5

6
8

1. COVER
13 10 2. FOAM GASKET
3. BULB
4. CIRCUIT BOARD
12 5. INDICATOR STRIP
11 6. BULB HOUSING
14 3 7. GASKET
8. HOUR METER
9. ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
GAUGE
15 10. VOLTMETER

16 19

17

11. CIRCUIT BOARD (RIGHT–HAND)

12. FUEL GAUGE
13. WATER TEMPERATURE GAUGE
14. CIRCUIT BOARD (LEFT–HAND)
15. ALARM
18 16. SEAL
17. HOUSING
18. SCREW
19. KEY SWITCH

FIGURE 3. INSTRUMENT CLUSTER

6
 L.H. TURN
SIGNAL
CHARGING
CIRCUIT
TRANS. OIL FUEL GAUGE
1 TEMP.
2 ENGINE OIL
3 PRESSURE
4 BRAKE FLUID LEV-
EL COOLANT
5 COOLANT LEVEL TEMPERATURE
6
7 SEAT BELT **

8 DIESEL FUEL HOURMETER

FILTER (WATER)
9
GLOW PLUG
10
11 MALFUNCTION
INDICATOR LAMP
12 ENGINE OIL
LOW FUEL LEVEL PRESS.GAUGE
13 (LPG)
14 AIR FILTER
RESTRICTION
15 R.H. TURN VOLTMETER
16 SIGNAL
**
17
18 SEAT WARNING CIRCUIT
19 ALARM
20
21
22
23
24

SEAT
BELT
WARNING
TIMER **

BATTERY INSTRUMENT CIR-

1 CUIT BREAKER 5
2 amp
TEST
3 ACCESSORY
4 STARTER
5
6 IGNITION
SWITCH

IGNITION GROUND

**NOT USED IN EUROPE 1352092

24 PIN CONNECTOR FUNCTIONS 6 PIN CONNECTOR

1. MALFUNCTION INDICATOR 10. LOW COOLANT LEVEL 18. NOT USED FUNCTIONS
(GM GAS ONLY) 11. CHARGING CIRCUIT 19. REVERSE 1. IGNITION
2. CLUSTER GROUND 12. L.H. TURN SIGNAL 20. FORWARD 2. ACCESSORY
3. DIESEL FUEL FILTER 13. ENGINE OIL PRESS. 21. NOT USED 3. NOT USED
4. LOW BRAKE FLUID LEVEL GAUGE 22. NOT USED 4. STARTER
5. LOW FUEL LEVEL (LPG) 14. R.H. TURN SIGNAL 23. PARKING 5. BATTERY
6. GLOW PLUG 15. FUEL GAUGE BRAKE 6. BATTERY
7. ENGINE OIL PRESSURE 16. COOLANT TEMP. 24. SEAT SWITCH
8. TRANS. OIL TEMP. 17. NOT USED
9. AIR FILTER RESTRICTION

FIGURE 4. INSTRUMENT CLUSTER SCHEMATIC

7
 INTRODUCTION

GENERAL DESCRIPTION

This section describes the operation of the Microproces-

sor Spark Timing System (MSTS). The MSTS system is The general operation of the MSTS system is described
an ignition system that is controlled by an MSTS Mod- in the following paragraphs. The description of the com-
ule. REPAIRS and TROUBLESHOOTING procedures ponents and a circuit analysis is given in the paragraphs
are also in this section under OPERATION.

2
3

12776

1. AIR FILTER RESTRICTION SENDER 5. COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENDER (GAUGE)

2. MSTS MODULE 6. ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE
3. FUEL SHUT–OFF SOLENOID SENSOR (MSTS)
4. MSTS FUSE 7. GOVERNOR SOLENOID VALVE

FIGURE 1. MSTS ARRANGEMENT IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT

1

1 sor, connecting wires, and the Ignition Control (IC) part
4 cylinder coming up on the exhaust stroke. The cylinder
2 available energy to energize the spark plug. The remain-
3 ing energy will be used as required by the cylinder on the
12776
5 compression stroke.
1. MAP SENSOR
2. IGNITION COILS (2)
3. IGNITION CONTROL MODULE (ICM)
4. OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
5. TACH CONNECTOR
FIGURE 2. DIRECT IGNITION SYSTEM
What MSTS Does
The MSTS module receives signals from sensors
mounted on the engine and uses the information to ad-
just the ignition timing for the best engine performance.
The MSTS module is installed in the engine compart-
ment, on the left–hand of the frame.
The MSTS module receives signals from the following
sensors:
• Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. This
sensor is a pressure transducer that measures the
atmospheric pressure before the engine is started
and MSTS uses this pressure as a reference. This
sensor then measures changes in pressure in the
intake manifold during engine operation.
• Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (ECT). This
sensor is a thermistor (resistor that changes its re-
sistance value as its temperature changes).
DIRECT IGNITION SYSTEM (DIS)
The ignition system part of MSTS is called Direct Igni-
tion System (DIS). The DIS has two separate ignition
2
coils, an ignition control module (ICM), crankshaft sen-
of the MSTS module. The ICM, the ignition coils and
the crankshaft sensor are installed on the left–hand side
of the engine block. This system does not use a normal
distributor and coil.
The DIS uses a “waste spark” method of spark distribu-
tion. Each coil is connected to the two cylinders that are
opposite it. That is, the ignition coils are made so that
cylinders 1 and 4 or cylinders 2 and 3 are energized at the
same time. The spark occurs at the same time in the cyl-
inder coming up on the compression stroke and in the
on the exhaust stroke requires a small amount of the
The direction of current flow in the primary and second-
ary winding causes one spark plug to energize from the
center electrode to the side electrode. The other plug en-
ergizes from side electrode to center electrode.
This ignition system uses the IC signal from MSTS to
control spark timing. Under 400 rpm, the Ignition Con-
trol Module (ICM) controls spark timing (module tim-
ing mode) and over 400 rpm, MSTS controls spark tim-
ing (IC mode).
To correctly control ignition timing, MSTS uses the fol-
lowing information:
• Engine load (manifold pressure)
• Atmospheric (barometric) pressure
• Engine coolant temperature
• Crankshaft position
• Crankshaft speed (Engine rpm)
Crankshaft Sensor (See FIGURE 5.)
The ignition system uses a magnetic crankshaft sensor
that is mounted in the engine block. The sensor extends
into the block within approximately 1.3 mm (0.050in) of
the crankshaft reluctor. The reluctor is a special wheel
cast on the crankshaft. The reluctor has seven slots ma-
chined into it, six of which are equally spaced (60°
apart). A seventh slot is 10° from one of the other slots
and creates a “sync–pulse”. As the reluctor rotates as
part of the crankshaft, the slots change the magnetic
field of the sensor, creating an induced voltage pulse.
 1
3

IGN B+
SIGNAL

2 A
+ 12 VOLT A
B B
C C
H
G D D
C E
A E
F
F
G
G
C
B H
A
J H
K J
A
B L K
4
L
M
A
B M
GB
N
C N
5
B P
P
A

1 F
E
2 D
3 C
4 A
GL 11

8
7
6
6. SPARK PLUGS
1. RPM LIMITER 9 7. DIS MODULE
2. GOVERNOR CONTROLLER 8. TACHOMETER CONNECTOR
3. MSTS FUSE 9. GROUND
4. MAP SENSOR 10 10. COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
5. CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR 11. MSTS CONNECTOR

FIGURE 3. MSTS WIRING DIAGRAM

The pulses created by the crankshaft sensor cause the
ignition control module (ICM) to send reference signals
to the MSTS module. These pulses are used to indicate
the speed and position of the crankshaft. The ICM con-
tinues to send these reference pulses to the MSTS mod-
ule at a rate of one per each 180° of crankshaft rotation.
By comparing the time between pulses, the MSTS cal-
culates engine rpm. The ICM can see the pulse from the
seventh slot “sync pulse” and on the second pulse start
the timing that energizes the ignition coils. The second
crank pulse following the “sync pulse” tells the ICM to
energize the number 2 and 3 ignition coil and the fifth
crank pulse tells the ICM to energize the number 1 and 4
ignition coil.

3
 Ignition Reference – Circuit GY
The crankshaft sensor sends a signal to the ignition con-
trol module that causes a reference pulse to be sent to the
MSTS module. MSTS uses this signal to determine
crankshaft position and speed.
Ignition Reference Ground – Circuit HX

4 This wire is makes sure that the ground circuit has no

voltage difference between the ignition control module
ground and the ground for MSTS. A bad ground connec-
tion can affect engine performance.
Bypass – Circuit GZ
At approximately 400 rpm, the MSTS module applies 5
1 volts to this circuit to switch spark timing control from
2 3 the ignition control module to MSTS.
1. IGNITION COILS AND IGNITION IC – Circuit GW
CONTROL MODULE
2. CRANKSHAFT SENSOR MSTS uses the reference signals from the ECT and
3. CRANKSHAFT RELUCTOR MAP sensors to calculate the spark advance that will be
4. SPARK PLUG (4) sent back to the module. Therefore, while the engine is
FIGURE 4. DIRECT IGNITION SYSTEM under 400 rpm, the IC module controls the ignition tim-
ing. When the engine speed is more than 400 rpm, the
MSTS module applies 5 volts to the by–pass line to
Ignition Coils switch the timing to MSTS control.

Two separate coils are installed on the ICM assembly.

Each coil provides the spark for two plugs at the same 3
1
time.
2
Ignition Control Module (ICM)

The Ignition Control Module (ICM) monitors the crank

sensor signals. The ICM uses these signals to send a ref-
erence signal to the MSTS module so that correct spark
can be maintained during all driving conditions.
4
During cranking, the ICM monitors the “sync–pulse” to
begin the ignition sequence. At engine speeds below
1. COIL FOR CYLINDERS 2 AND 3
400 rpm the ICM controls spark advance by energizing 2. COIL FOR CYLINDERS 1 AND 4
each of the two coils based on engine speed only. Above 3. DIS MODULE
400 rpm MSTS controls the Ignition Control (IC) signal 4. CRANK SENSOR
for all driving conditions. The ICM must receive a FIGURE 5. IGNITION PARTS
“sync–pulse” and then a crank signal in that order to let
the engine start. Engine Coolant Temperature
(ECT) Sensor (See FIGURE 6.)
Ignition Control (IC)
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor is a re-
Following is a brief description for each of the EST cir- sistor that changes its resistance when the temperature
cuits. changes (thermistor). It is installed in the engine coolant

4
system. Low coolant temperature causes high resis-
tance; 100,000 ohms at –40°C (–40°F). High tempera-
ture causes low resistance; 70 ohms at 130°C (266°F).
2
1 performance.
3
1. TEMPERATURE SENSOR
2. ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
3. LOCK TAB
FIGURE 6. ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE
SENSOR (ECT)
MSTS applies 5 volts through an internal resistor to the
coolant sensor and monitors the voltage on this line. The
sensor gives a path to ground through its thermistor. The
voltage will be high when the engine is cold, and low
when the engine is hot. By monitoring the voltage, the
MSTS module determines the engine coolant tempera-
ture. Engine coolant temperature affects most of the
MSTS functions. MSTS will adjust the ignition timing
for more spark advance when the engine coolant is cold
and less spark advance when the engine coolant is hot.
An engine at operating temperature normally needs less
spark advance.
Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor (See FIGURE 7.)
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor is a
pressure transducer that measures changes in the pres-
sure in the intake manifold. See FIGURE 7. The pres-
sure changes are caused by the load on the engine. The
MAP sensor changes these pressure variations to a sig-
nal voltage to the MSTS module.
MSTS sends a 5 volt reference signal to the MAP sensor.
When the pressure in the intake manifold changes, the
electrical resistance in the MAP sensor also changes.
The change in the voltage signal from the MAP sensor
enables the MSTS module to sense the pressure in the
intake manifold.
A closed throttle causes a low pressure (high engine vac-
uum) in the intake manifold. This low pressure causes a
low voltage signal from the MAP sensor to the MSTS
module. A fully opened throttle causes a higher pressure
(low engine vacuum) in the intake manifold. This higher
pressure causes a higher voltage signal from the MAP
sensor to the MSTS module. These pressure changes in-
dicate the load on the engine to MSTS. The MSTS mod-
ule then calculates the spark timing for the best engine
The MAP sensor also measures the barometric pressure
when the key switch is turned to ON and before the en-
gine is started. The MSTS module “remembers” the
barometric pressure (BARO signal) after the engine is
running. MSTS then automatically adjusts the ignition
timing for different altitudes and atmospheric condi-
tions.
1
2
1. SENSOR
2. ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
FIGURE 7. MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE
(MAP) SENSOR
MSTS Module, Corrections
The operation of MSTS was described in earlier para-
graphs. (See the description in “What MSTS Does”)
These paragraphs describe the corrections made by the
MSTS module.
The MSTS module does a check of the system compo-
nents of the MSTS. A set of normal operating limits are
part of the PROM program. If a sensor sends a signal
that is outside of the limits of the PROM program, the
MSTS will not use the information. The MSTS will use
a standard value from its program and continue to oper-
ate the MSTS.
The following examples are the action of the MSTS if it
finds a problem:
MAP Sensor Signal Voltage Is Too High Or
Too Low. The MSTS module will use a MAP val-
ue from its PROM program and use this value to
calculate the ignition timing
5
 ECT Signal Voltage Is Too High Or Too Low. POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION
When a coolant sensor error occurs, the MSTS (See FIGURE 8.)
module will use a value that is approximately the
normal operating temperature of the coolant. The Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system is
used as a vent for vapors from the crankcase. Clean air
GOVERNOR SYSTEM (See FIGURE 1.) from the air cleaner is supplied to the crankcase, mixed
with gases from the valve cover. This mixture then goes
The governor system controls the maximum engine through the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve
speed under variable load conditions. The governor at- into the intake manifold. For correct engine idle, the
taches to the carburetor throttle assembly. The governor PCV valve restricts the flow when there is high vacuum
controller is on the cowl in the operator compartment. at the intake manifold.
Vacuum lines connect the governor solenoid valve to the
The incorrect operation of the PCV system can cause;
carburetor and to the diaphragm of the governor. The
rough or slow idle, high idle speed, oil leaks or oil in the
governor controller is electrically connected to the gov-
air filter.
ernor solenoid valve and the crankshaft sensor.
The operation of the governor is controlled by the gov-
ernor controller. Manifold vacuum and air pressure pro- C
A
vide the force to actuate the governor. The governor B
controller controls this force. The governor diaphragm D
operates the throttle plate of the carburetor. Linkage
from the diaphragm closes the throttle plate when the
vacuum is high. A spring in the governor opens the
throttle plate.
The governor controller is connected to the crankshaft
sensor and controls the operation of the governor sole-
noid valve. The governor solenoid valve controls the
vacuum at the diaphragm in the governor. During opera-
tion, the governor controller receives the engine speed
signals. As the engine speed reaches the limit of the gov-
ernor, current flows to the governor solenoid valve. The A. PCV VALVE
solenoid valve closes, causing vacuum to operate the B. PCV VALVE
diaphragm. When actuated, the diaphragm works HOSE
C. AIR FILTER
against the governor spring to close the throttle plate and D. CRANKCASE
decrease engine speed. The governor solenoid valve VENT HOSE
opens and closes as necessary to keep the engine speed
within the governor limits.
CLEAN AIR
An rpm limiter monitors engine speed is connected to
MIXTURE OF
the fuel shut–off solenoid valve. When the engine speed AIR AND
exceeds the governor limit, the controller deenergizes FUMES
the solenoid valve and stops the fuel flow to the carbure-
tor. When the engine speed decreases below the gover-
nor limit, the controller energizes the solenoid valve, FIGURE 8. POSITIVE CRANKCASE
permitting fuel to flow to the carburetor. VENTILATION SYSTEM

6
 TROUBLESHOOTING
GENERAL
The following troubleshooting charts are designed to
give an efficient method of fault analysis on the MSTS.
WARNING
This troubleshooting requires the operation of the
engine for some of the tests. Make sure the tests are
done carefully to prevent injury:
• Put the lift truck on a level surface. Lower the
carriage and forks and apply the parking
brake. Make sure the lift truck can not move
and cause an injury during the tests. Put
blocks in front and back of the drive tires to
prevent movement of the lift truck.
• The fuel system and the engine must operate
correctly. Any problems or leaks in the fuel
system or the engine must be repaired before
doing troubleshooting on the MSTS.
• The fan and the drive belts can remove fingers
or cause other injuries. Be careful that your
hands and tools do not touch the moving fan or
the drive belts.
• The engine exhaust and other parts of the en-
gine are hot. Do not touch a hot surface and
cause a burn.
CAUTION
Electronic equipment can be damaged if trouble–
shooting and repairs are not done correctly. The fol-
lowing CAUTIONS must be followed when doing
troubleshooting or repairs on an engine with MSTS:
• Always disconnect the battery negative cable
before disconnecting and removing any parts
of ignition system.
• Never disconnect the battery from any equip-
ment when the engine is running.
• If the battery must be charged with a battery
charger, ALWAYS disconnect the battery
from the electrical system.
• Make sure that all electrical connections are
clean and have good electrical contact.
• Never connect or disconnect the wiring har-
ness at the MSTS module when the key switch
is “ON”.
• Always disconnect the battery and the MSTS
module connectors if electric arc welding must
be done on the vehicle.
• Make sure that any water or steam is not sent
toward the MSTS module or its sensors if the
engine compartment is cleaned with steam.
The heat and steam can damage the electronic
components and cause corrosion in the electri-
cal connections.
• Use only the tools and test equipment de-
scribed in “TOOLS AND TEST EQUIP-
MENT” to prevent damage to good compo-
nents and to obtain correct test results.
• All voltage measurements must be done with a
digital voltmeter with a rating of 10 megohm
input impedance.
• When a test light is used in troubleshooting,
the test light must have less than 0.3 amps (300
milliamps) of maximum current flow. A test
for a correct test light is shown in FIGURE 9.
TOOLS AND TEST EQUIPMENT
The following tools are necessary for troubleshooting
the MSTS:
• Ohmmeter
• Digital voltmeter. The voltmeter must have a
minimum input impedance of 10–megohms. (A
digital voltmeter and ohmmeter are normally in-
cluded in a multi–meter test instrument.
• Tachometer with inductive trigger signal sensor.
• Test light that has a low current draw as described
in FIGURE 9.
• Vacuum pump with a gauge. This vacuum pump
is held and operated with the hand. The gauge
must be able to indicate a gauge pressure (vacu-
um) of 34 kPa [20 inches of mercury (20” Hg)].
(See the PRESSURE CONVERSION CHART at
the end of this section.)
• Spark tester. The spark tester is used to check the
secondary ignition. The spark tester is also called
7
 an ST125 and creates a 25 kilovolt load on sec- MSTS
ondary ignition components.
Test Description (See FIGURE 10.)

The numbers in circles on the troubleshooting chart

DC Amps have the following indications:
1 This step checks if there is a problem in the igni-
tion coil assembly.

2 This step checks the operation of the MAP sen-

sor.

3 In addition to checking the wires for an open cir-

TEST
LIGHT cuit,

– +
BATTERY

If the ammeter indicates less than 0.3 amps (300

milliamps), the test light can be used.
If the ammeter indicates more than 0.3 amps (300
milliamps), the test light can not be used
because it can cause damage to the electronic
components.
FIGURE 9. CURRENT FLOW TEST FOR A TEST
LIGHT

8
 NOTE: Make sure the fuel system is operating correctly before using this chart.
1 Does the engine start?

YES NO

2 a. Run the engine at a constant speed of 1500 See FIGURE 11. “IGNITION SYSTEM
rpm. TROUBLESHOOTING CHART”
b. Disconnect the electrical connection for the
MAP sensor.
c. Did the engine speed change when the MAP
sensor was disconnected?

YES NO

a. Connect the MAP See “MANIFOLD

3
sensor again. ABSOLUTE
b. Turn the key switch PRESSURE
to OFF. (MAP) TROUBLE–
SHOOTING”.
c. MSTS is operating
correctly.
d. If problem still
exists, check for other
troubleshooting
faults.

FIGURE 10. MSTS TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

9
IGNITION SYSTEM
Circuit Description
A magnetic crank sensor is used to determine engine
crankshaft position and speed. The sensor is mounted in
the block, near a slotted wheel on the crankshaft. The
rotation of the wheel creates a flux change in the sensor,
which produces a voltage signal. The Ignition Control
Module (ICM) processes this signal and creates the ref-
erence pulses needed by the MSTS module to energize
the correct coil at the correct time.
If the engine rotates but there is no spark at the plugs, the
problem is in the Ignition System or the power and
ground supplies to the ignition module.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on
the next page.
1. The Electronic Ignition (EI) system uses two plugs
and cables to complete the circuit of each coil. The other
spark plug cable in the circuit must be left connected to
create a spark.
10
2. This test will determine if the 12 volt supply and a
good ground is available at the DIS ignition module.
3. This test will determine if the ignition module is not
generating the reference pulse, or if the wiring or MSTS
module has a fault. By touching and removing a test
light from Battery + to circuit GY, a reference pulse will
be generated.
4. This test will determine if the Ignition Control Mod-
ule (ICM) is not energizing the problem coil, or if the
tested coil is at fault. This test could also be performed
by changing a known good coil. The secondary coil
winding can be checked with a Digital Volt Ohmmeter
(DVOM). There will be 5,000 to 10,000 ohms across the
coil towers. There will not be any continuity from either
coil tower to ground.
5. This tests continuity of the sensor, connections, and
wires.
6. Normal crank sensor voltage output range is .8 volts –
1.4 volts (800 mV to 1400 mV) with a charged battery
and engine at room temperature. Minimum output volt-
age (slow cranking/low battery) can be as low as .3 volts
(300mV).
 • IGNITION OFF
• DISCONNECT 2 AND 6 PIN
CONNECTOR AT ICM
• IGNITION ON
• TOUCH CIRCUIT GY WITH
TEST LIGHT SEVERAL TIMES
IS THERE A REFERENCE PULSE?

OPEN OR SHORT REPLACE

CIRCUIT TO BAD
GROUND OR COIL
DAMAGED MSTS
MODULE

FIGURE 11. IGNITION SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

11
 MSTS MODULE CONNECTIONS
This voltage chart is for use with a digital voltmeter when doing troubleshooting. There can be small varia-
tions in the voltage shown in the chart from those voltages measured during troubleshooting. These small
variations are because of the battery charge and other resistances in the connections. A variation of more
than 0.5 volts can be an indication of a malfunction.

When this chart is used for troubleshooting, the engine must be at its operating temperature and the engine
must be at idle speed (for ENGINE RUNNING column).

A B C D E F G H J K L M N P

14–PIN CONNECTOR

ECM CONNECTOR WIRE SENSOR CONNECTOR NORMAL VOLTAGE

COLOR
PIN FUNCTION PIN FUNCTION KEY ENGINE
ON RUNNING
A Not Used – – – –
B Not Used – – – –
C Not Used – – – –
D DIS Module GZA E DIS Module
rpm Limiter NNA Gnd.
Governor Controller NN H
E DIS Module GY DIS To MSTS By–Pass
F DIS Module GW MSTS To DIS
G ECT Sensor GQ MSTS To ECT Sensor 1.6* 1.6*
H MAP Sensor HA B MAP Signal 4.75** 1.1**
J MAP Sensor GS C 5 Volt Reference 5.0 5.0
K DIS Module HX Ground To DIS Reference and
System Gorund
L Governor Controller JM A
rpm Limiter IGN
M MAP Sensor HY A Sensor Ground
N Not Used – – – –
P Ground HQ – MSTS To Sensor Ground 0 0
* Voltage changes with temperature.
** Voltage changes with atmospheric pressure.

12

FIGURE 12. MAP SENSOR TROUBLESHOOTING
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE
(MAP) SENSOR
Circuit Description
When the load on the engine changes, the pressure in the
intake manifold changes. This pressure is less than the
atmospheric pressure. The Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) sensor measures the changes in the intake man-
ifold pressure and converts these changes to a voltage
signal. The MSTS module sends a reference signal (5.0
volts) to the MAP sensor. When the manifold pressure
changes, the electrical resistance of the MAP sensor
changes and a variation of the voltage signal is received
by the MSTS module.
When the engine is at idle speed and does not have a load
on it, the normal signal voltage from the MAP sensor is
approximately 1.0 to 1.5 volts. When the throttle valve
is fully opened, the intake manifold pressure is higher
(lower vacuum) and the signal voltage from the MAP
sensor is approximately 4.5 to 4.8 volts.
When the ignition switch is turned to ON, the initial
voltage signal from the MAP sensor indicates the baro-
metric pressure (BARO signal) to the MSTS module.
The MSTS module “remembers” the barometric pres-
sure (BARO signal) after the engine is running. The
MSTS then automatically adjusts the ignition timing for
different altitudes and atmospheric conditions.
MSTS MODULE
GS
HA
HY
Test Description
NOTE: If a malfunction indicates a fault in the MAP
sensor, make the following checks before doing tests on
the MAP sensor:
a. Make sure that the vacuum hose is not damaged
or disconnected. Disconnect the vacuum hose
from the MAP sensor. Connect a vacuum gauge
to the end of the hose and start the engine. Check
that the vacuum indication from the engine to the
MAP sensor is correct. The engine will normally
apply greater than 34 kPa (10” Hg of vacuum) to
the MAP sensor.
b. If a malfunction indicates a fault in the MAP sen-
sor, make sure that the electrical connections do
not have dirt and corrosion. A bad electrical con-
nection can give an indication of a malfunction in
the MAP sensor.
NOTE: Make sure that the same digital voltmeter is
used for all measurements. The voltage and resistance
measurements must be carefully done. The differences
in measurements are small and the use of more than one
measuring instrument can give errors.
There are two tests in this procedure. The first test
checks the electrical signals between the MAP sensor
and the MSTS module. The second test checks the sig-
nal output of the MAP sensor when a standard vacuum is
applied to it.
Test 1. Do the following test procedure:
a. The key switch is OFF. Disconnect the connector
from the MAP sensor. The engine is stopped and
13
 the key switch is ON. Connect a digital voltmeter
between terminal A and terminal C the plug con-
nector. Terminal C is the 5 volt reference voltage
and terminal A is the sensor ground. Carefully
measure the actual reference voltage (“5V REF-
ERENCE”) between the two terminals.
Test 2. The jumper wires must be installed as described
b. Use a barometer or call a local weather station to
in Test 1, step d. The voltmeter must be connected as de-
find the local atmospheric pressure. Find the
scribed in Test 1, step e. Do the following procedure:
number in the “Atmospheric Pressure” column in
the chart that is the closest to the atmospheric
pressure. See the chart in FIGURE 13.
c. Find the “5V REFERENCE” column in the chart
that is closest to the actual reference voltage mea-
sured in step a. Follow the “5V REFERENCE”
column into the signal voltage area until it inter-
sects with the horizontal column for “Atmo-
spheric Pressure” that was found in step b. Make
a note of the “MAP Sensor Signal Voltage” where
the two columns intersect.
d. Three jumper wires are needed so that the voltage
can be measured when the connector to the wir-
ing harness is connected to the MAP sensor. Use
the jumper wires to connect the terminals A, B,
and C to their connections in the wiring harness.
e. Connect the “+” probe of the digital voltmeter to
terminal B (MAP signal voltage). Connect the
negative (or COMM) probe to terminal A (sensor
ground).
14
f. The engine is stopped and the key switch is ON.
Measure the MAP sensor signal voltage. The
voltage must be within +0.4 volts of the voltage
value found on the chart in step c. If the voltage is
not within these limits, replace the MAP sensor.
a. Disconnect the vacuum hose at the MAP sensor.
Connect a vacuum pump that can be operated by
hand to the MAP sensor.
b. Use the vacuum pump to apply 34 kPa (20” Hg)
of vacuum to the MAP sensor. (See the PRES-
SURE CONVERSION CHART at the end of this
section.) Look at the voltage change indicated on
the voltmeter. The voltage change will normally
occur as quickly as the vacuum is applied to the
MAP sensor.
c. Compare the voltage indicated on the voltmeter
with the voltage indicated in Test 1, step f. The
correct voltage indicated in this step will be 1.2 to
1.3 volts less that the voltage indicated in Test 1,
step f.
d. If the voltage signals are correct, check for vacu-
um leaks in the hoses and connections. If the volt-
age signals are not correct, replace the MAP sen-
sor.
 ATMOSPHERIC 5V REFERENCE
PRESSURE
4.80 4.90 5.00 5.10 5.20

kPa inches of Hg MAP SENSOR SIGNAL VOLTAGE

64.35 19.0 2.75 2.80 2.86 2.92 2.97
66.04 19.5 2.83 2.89 2.95 3.01 3.07
67.73 20.0 2.92 2.98 3.04 3.10 3.16
69.43 20.5 3.00 3.07 3.13 3.19 3.25
71.12 21.0 3.09 3.15 3.22 3.28 3.35
72.81 21.5 3.18 3.24 3.31 3.37 3.44
74.51 22.0 3.26 3.33 3.40 3.47 3.53
76.20 22.5 3.35 3.42 3.49 3.56 3.63
77.89 23.0 3.43 3.51 3.58 3.65 3.72
79.59 23.5 3.52 3.59 3.67 3.74 3.81
81.28 24.0 3.61 3.68 3.76 3.83 3.91
82.97 24.5 3.69 3.77 3.85 3.92 4.00
84.67 25.0 3.79 3.86 3.94 4.01 4.09
86.36 25.5 3.86 3.94 4.03 4.11 4.19
88.05 26.0 3.95 4.03 4.11 4.20 4.28
89.75 26.5 4.04 4.12 4.20 4.29 4.37
91.44 27.0 4.12 4.20 4.29 4.38 4.47
93.13 27.5 4.21 4.30 4.38 4.47 4.56
94.83 28.0 4.29 4.38 4.47 4.56 4.65
96.49 28.5 4.38 4.47 4.56 4.65 4.75
98.19 29.0 4.47 4.56 4.65 4.75 4.84
99.88 29.5 4.55 4.65 4.74 4.84 4.93
101.57 30.0 4.64 4.74 4.83 4.93 5.03
103.27 30.5 4.72 4.84 4.92 5.02 5.12
104.96 31.0 4.81 4.91 5.01 5.11 5.21

FIGURE 13. VOLTAGE AND PRESSURE CHART FOR MAP SENSOR TROUBLESHOOTING

15

HY
FIGURE 14. ECT SENSOR TROUBLESHOOTING
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE
SENSOR (ECT)
Circuit Description (See FIGURE 14.)
The Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT) uses a
thermistor to control the signal voltage to the MSTS
module. The MSTS module applies a 5–volt reference
voltage through a resistor to the ECT sensor. When the
engine coolant is cold, the thermistor resistance is high-
er than when the engine coolant is at operating tempera-
ture. As the temperature of the engine coolant increases
after the engine is started, the resistance decreases and
the signal voltage decreases. When the engine is operat-
ing at 85 to 95°C (185 to 203°F), the signal voltage is ap-
proximately 1.5 to 2.0 volts.
16
MSTS MODULE
HY
GQ
Test Description (See FIGURE 15.)
The numbers in circles on the troubleshooting chart
have the following indications:
1 This step checks if there is a fault in the wiring or
the MSTS module or if the fault is in the ECT sen-
sor.
2 Make sure the electrical connections do not have
dirt and corrosion. If an ohmmeter is connected
across the terminals A and B of the ECT sensor,
the resistance normally decreases as the tempera-
ture of the engine coolant increases.
3 This step checks if there is a fault in the wiring or
the sensor ground.
1 a. Turn the key switch to OFF.
b. Disconnect the connector at the ECT.
c. Turn the key switch to ON.
d. Connect a digital voltmeter across the two
terminals of the connector to the ECT. Check
that the voltage signal is greater than 4 volts.

NO YES

3 a. Connect the “+” probe of the digital voltmeter 2 There is a bad connection or the ECT has a
to terminal B (5V signal circuit) on the connector. fault. Make repairs.

b. Connect the negative (COMM) probe to a

good ground connection on the engine. Check
that the voltage signal is greater than 4 volts.

NO YES

a. Remove the voltmeter. Open circuit in the sensor ground

or
b. Turn the key switch to ON.
bad connection at the MSTS module
c. Connect a test light to battery voltage B+. or
d. Touch the probe of the test light to terminal B fault in the MSTS module. Make repairs as
on the connector to the ECT. Check that the test necessary.
light illuminates.

NO YES

Circuit for 5V signal is open Disconnect the MSTS module. Is the test light
or still illuminated?
bad connection at the MSTS module
or
YES NO
fault in the MSTS module. Make repairs as
necessary.
Circuit for 5V Circuit for 5V signal has
signal has a a short–circuit to
short–circuit. sensor ground
COOLANT SENSOR or
TEMPERATURE TO RESISTANCE VALUES there is a fault in the
(APPROXIMATE) MSTS module. Make
°C °F OHMS repairs as necessary.
100 210 185
70 160 450
38 100 1,800
20 70 3,400
4 40 7,500
–7 20 13,500
–18 0 25,000
–40 –40 1,000,700

FIGURE 15. ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

17
 REPAIRS
NOTE: This REPAIR section describes the components 5. Inspect the electrical connectors and terminals for
of the MSTS and how to remove or replace them. damage. Inspect the coils for cracks or damage.
6. Install the new ICM module to the mounting bracket.
MSTS MODULE
7. Install the shield and coils from the other assembly.
NOTE: See the TROUBLESHOOTING procedures to
check the operation of the MSTS module. The follow- 8. Install the capscrews that hold the module to the
ing paragraphs describe the removal and installation of bracket. Tighten the capscrews to 4.5 N m (40 lbf in).
the module.
9. Connect the electrical connections. Connect the nega-
tive battery cable.
CAUTION
Never connect or disconnect the wiring harness at
the MSTS module when the key switch is “ON”. Nev-
er connect jumper wires or test instruments to the
MSTS module when the key switch is “ON”. Discon- 3
nect the battery negative cable when removing or in-
stalling electrical components.

Do not touch the connector pins or the soldered con-

nections on the circuit board. The MSTS module can
be damaged with an electrostatic discharge.
4
Removal (See FIGURE 1.) 1

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable. Disconnect the 2

14–pin connector at the module 1. BRACKET
2. ICM
2. Remove the three capscrews that fasten the ECM to its 3. COIL FOR CYLINDERS 2 AND 3
mount. Remove the module. 4. COIL FOR CYLINDERS 1 AND 4
FIGURE 16. IGNITION COILS
Installation (See FIGURE 1.)
IGNITION COIL REPLACEMENT
1. Install the module on its mount and install the three
(See FIGURE 17.)
capscrews.
NOTE: The coils can be removed with the ICM at-
2. Connect the 14–pin connector at the module. Connect
tached to the engine.
the battery negative cable.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
ICM REPLACEMENT (See FIGURE 17.)
2. Disconnect the spark plug wires from the coils. Re-
NOTE: This operation is normally done from under the move the mounting capscrews for the coils and remove
lift truck. the coils.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Disconnect the electrical connectors at the ICM.
3. Remove the capscrews for the ICM. Remove the coils
and shield from the assembly.
4. Move any parts to the new ICM.
3. Inspect the electrical connectors and terminals for
damage. Inspect the coils for cracks or damage.
4. Install the new coil(s). Tighten the capscrews for the
coils to 4.5 N.m (40 lbf in).
5. Connect the spark plug wires. Connect the negative
battery cable.

18
 4. Connect the connector at the ECT. Connect the bat-
3 tery negative cable.
1

2
2
1
3

4
1. TEMPERATURE SENSOR
1. COIL FOR CYLINDERS 2 AND 3 2. ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
2. COIL FOR CYLINDERS 1 AND 4 3. LOCK TAB
3. ICM FIGURE 18. ENGINE COOLANT
4. CRANK SENSOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR (ECT)
FIGURE 17. IGNITION PARTS
MAP SENSOR REPLACEMENT
CRANKSHAFT SENSOR REPLACEMENT (See FIGURE 19.)
(See FIGURE 17.)
NOTE: The MAP sensor is on the left–hand side of the
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
bracket that is on top of the valve cover.
2. Disconnect the connector at the crankshaft sensor.
Remove the retainer capscrew and the sensor. 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable. Disconnect the
vacuum hose from the MAP sensor. Disconnect the
4. Inspect the electrical connectors and terminals for
electrical connector at the MAP sensor.
damage. Inspect the oil seal and mounting surfaces for
leaks. 2. Remove screws that fasten the MAP to its mount. Re-
5. Install a new oil seal and crankshaft sensor. Install the move the MAP sensor.
retainer capscrew and tighten to 8 N.m (71 lbf in). 3. Install the MAP sensor on its mount surface and in-
6. Connect the connector at the crankshaft sensor. Con- stall the screws.
nect the negative battery cable.
4. Connect electrical connector at the MAP sensor. Con-
7. Run engine and check for oil leaks. nect the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor. Connect the
battery negative cable.
ECT SENSOR REPLACEMENT
(See FIGURE 18.)
1
NOTE: See the TROUBLESHOOTING descriptions to
check the operation of the ECT sensor. The following
paragraphs describe the disconnection or the removal
and installation of the ECT sensor.
2
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable. Disconnect the
connector at the ECT.
2. Use a wrench and carefully loosen the ECT from the 1. SENSOR
coolant manifold. 2. ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR

3. Install the ECT in its hole in the coolant manifold and FIGURE 19. MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE
carefully tighten it with a wrench. PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR

19
 PRESSURE CONVERSION CHART
Vacuum and pressure readings often cause confusion because
everyone does not use the same point of reference. “Absolute ABSOLUTE GAUGE
pressure” is the “gauge pressure” plus the atmospheric PRESSURE PRESSURE
pressure. The standard atmospheric pressure is also called the
standard barometric pressure and is equal to 101.325 kPa inches inches
kPa of Hg of Hg
(14.695 psi) or [29.92 inches of mercury (Hg)] at sea level. The
reference point for these measurements is zero pressure or an 121.92 36 6
absolute vacuum. Pressure
115.14 34 4
Service people normally use “gauge pressure” as the reference
point which does not add the atmospheric pressure. The 108.4 32 2
reference point for “gauge pressure” is atmospheric pressure. It
is important to know when reading a pressure chart whether the 101.6 30 0
units are given in “absolute pressure” or “gauge pressure”. 94.8 28 2
The gauges used by most service people indicate “gauge
88.0 26 4
pressure”. However, most gauges calibrated in a metric scale
(kilopascals) and used to measure less than atmospheric 81.3 24 6 Vacuum
pressure normally indicate absolute pressure as shown in the
chart. A gauge calibrated in inches of Hg and used to measure a 74.51 22 8
vacuum begins at zero and increases its indication as the 67.73 20 10
vacuum increases as shown in the “gauge pressure” column of
the chart. 60.96 18 12
An additional cause of confusion is that the manifold pressure 54.18 16 14
gauge for an engine with a turbocharger is normally calibrated
47.41 14 16
for absolute pressure for both kilopascals and inches of Hg. The
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor described in this 40.64 12 18
section is also calibrated for absolute pressure, but the service
person doing checking or troubleshooting will often be using 33.87 10 20
gauges calibrated for “gauge pressure”. 27.09 8 22
20.32 6 24
13.55 4 26

20
 INTRODUCTION
GENERAL
This section has the descriptions and service procedures
for the electrical systems for the Isuzu C–240 (2.4L),
4JB1 (2.8L) and 4JG2 (3.1L) diesel engines used on the
H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM) units. This section also
covers late model H2.00–3.00XL (H40–60XL) units.
CAUTION
When using an arc welder, always disconnect the
ground lead from the lift truck battery to prevent al-
ternator or battery damage. Attach the welding
ground clamp as close to the weld area as possible to
prevent welding current from damaging the bear-
ings.
The diodes and resistors in the electrical system can
be damaged if the following cautions are not fol-
lowed:
• Do not disconnect the battery when the engine
is running. The voltage surge can damage the
diodes and resistors in the electrical system.
• Do not disconnect an electric wire before the
engine is stopped and the switches are “OFF”.
• Do not cause a short–circuit by connecting the
electric wires to the wrong terminals. Make
sure a correct identification is made of the wire
before it is connected.
• Make sure a battery is the correct voltage and
polarity before it is connected.
• Do not check for current flow by making a
spark because the electronic components can
be damaged.


Always disconnect the battery ground cable before
making repairs to prevent possible damage and inju-
ry. Install a tag on the battery terminal so that no one
connects the cable on the terminal.
DESCRIPTION
Starting System (See FIGURE 1.)
The starting system includes the starter circuit and the
circuit for cold start aid. The starter circuit includes the
following: (1) starter, (2) battery, (3) key switch, (4)
neutral start switches and on units with a Monotrol ped-
al, (5) parking and (6) service brake switches. The cold
start aid includes: (1) a glow plug for each cylinder, (2) a
relay, (3) a timer, (4) a thermal switch, (5) the key
switch, (6) a fuse and (7) the battery.
The starter has a drive gear and an idler gear to increase
starter torque. It also has a clutch assembly. The clutch
assembly magnetically pushes a small gear out of the
housing to engage the flywheel teeth. The starter motor
rotates the drive gear. The drive gear engages and rotates
the larger idler gear. The idler gear engages the teeth on
the clutch assembly when the magnet of the solenoid is
energized. A small gear on the end of the clutch assem-
bly engages the teeth on the flywheel. When the starter
is energized, the solenoid magnet makes the clutch as-
sembly connect power from the idler gear to the fly-
wheel. At approximately the same time, the starter mo-
tor energizes to rotate the flywheel and start the engine.
Several conditions must be true to start the engine. On
units with a Monotrol pedal, the parking brake or service
brake must be applied and the key switch must be in the
START position. The transmission will be in NEU-
TRAL. The brake switches are closed when the brake is
applied. The neutral start switch is closed when the
transmission is in NEUTRAL. On units with the For-
ward/Reverse lever, the lever must be in the NEU-
TRAL position so that the transmission is in NEU-
TRAL and the neutral start switches are closed. The
brake switches are not in this circuit. Voltage from the
key switch is applied through the switches to the “S” ter-
minal of the starter to energize the starter motor.
The glow plugs for the cold start aid heat the fuel from
the injectors. Heating the fuel lowers the combustion
point of the fuel. The glow plugs are resistance heaters
that have parallel electrical connections. The glow plugs
are electrically in series with the relay, fuse and battery.
The relay is energized to complete the circuit to the glow
plugs when the following conditions are true: (1) the key
switch is in the IGN or START position, (2) there is a
voltage signal to the timer from the “S” terminal of the
starter and the thermal switch is closed. The thermal
switch is closed when the engine coolant is cold.
1
 2 1
8
9

10 2
FROM STARTER
“S” TERMINAL
7 3
4 5
5
6

1
3
4
7 6

STARTER CIRCUIT

1. BATTERY
CIRCUIT FOR COLD START AID
2. STARTER
3. “S” TERMINAL 8. SERVICE BRAKE 1. GLOW PLUG
4. BATTERY TERMINAL SWITCH 2. RELAY
5. KEY SWITCH 9. UNITS WITH 3. TIMER
6. NEUTRAL START MONOTROL ONLY 4. THERMAL SWITCH
SWITCH 10. UNITS WITH 5. KEY SWITCH
7. PARKING BRAKE FORWARD/REVERSE 6. FUSE
SWITCH LEVER ONLY 7. BATTERY
9541 9540

FIGURE 1. THE STARTING CIRCUITS

The relay is deenergized for the following conditions:
(1) the key switch is in the OFF position, (2) the timer
has completed the time cycle or the engine coolant has
warmed enough so that the thermal switch contacts
open. The glow plugs are deenergized when the relay is
deenergized.
rent at a given rpm when it is ON. It generates no current
when it is OFF. The regulator switches the alternator be-
tween ON and OFF to get the average charging current
needed. Alternator output is directly changed by engine
speed and the rotor current. The regulator controls the
rotor current.

Charging System (See FIGURE 2.)
The charging system for both engines includes the alter-
nator, regulator (inside the alternator case) and battery.
The regulator controls the alternator to charge the bat-
tery. The battery voltage decreases as the starting circuit
and other circuits use current from the battery. The regu-
lator senses this decrease in battery voltage and in-
creases the alternator output to charge the battery. The
alternator supplies all the necessary current, within its
maximum, when the engine is operating. The alternator
is either ON or OFF. The alternator generates full cur-
The alternator has four main parts: (1) the stator, (2) the
rotor, (3) the diode assembly and (4) the regulator. Me-
chanical power from the engine turns the rotor inside the
stator windings. The regulator controls the flow of bat-
tery current to the rotor brushes, slip rings and rotor
windings. A magnetic field that rotates is the result of
this current flow and mechanical power. The magnetic
field makes current flow in the stator windings. This
current is AC and is changed to DC by the diodes to be-
come the alternator output. The output from the alterna-
tor connects to the positive terminal of the battery to
charge the battery.

2
 1

2 3
BAT

R
L
L 5
F 4
6
E
E

9 8
10 7

1. ALTERNATOR 4. INDICATOR 7. REGULATOR 10. DIODE TRIO

2. CONNECTOR 5. KEY SWITCH 8. STATOR
3. OTHER BATTERY CIRCUITS 6. BATTERY 9. ROTOR 9542

FIGURE 2. THE CHARGING CIRCUIT

REPAIRS
NOTE: Be sure to use the TROUBLESHOOTING lenoid housing. Remove the motor from the solenoid
and CHECKS procedures before starting any repairs. housing.

STARTER
Removal And Disassembly
(See FIGURE 3. and FIGURE 4.)
NOTE: The starter is nearly the same for both the
C–240, 4JB1 and 4JG2 engines. Do only the steps that
are necessary to install the new part.
1. Disconnect the battery cable at the negative terminal
of the battery.
2. Put labels on the starter electrical leads for correct
connection during installation. Remove all electrical
leads fastened to the starter terminals.
3. Hold the starter to keep it from falling. Remove the
two capscrews that fasten the starter to the flywheel
housing.
4. Remove the motor lead at the solenoid terminal. Re-
move the two capscrews that fasten the motor to the so-
CAUTION
Do not let the drive gear, idler gear, retainer and roll-
ers or clutch, ball and spring fall. These parts can fall
when the cover housing is removed.
5. Remove the two screws that fasten the end housing to
the solenoid housing. Carefully remove the end housing
and the drive gear.
6. Carefully remove the idler gear, retainer and rollers.
Remove the clutch assembly, ball and spring from the
solenoid housing.
NOTE: Do not disassemble the clutch assembly. Sepa-
rate parts cannot be installed. If new parts are needed,
install the clutch assembly as a single unit.
7. To install new brushes, armature bearings, armature
and motor housing,, do the following steps:

3
 1. BRUSH HOLDER
2. BRUSH SPRING 7
6
3. FELT WASHER
4. ARMATURE
5. BEARING
6. BRUSH 5
7. HOUSING
8. BOLT
9. RETAINER 4
2

3
14
1 13

12

11
8 10
9

9543
8 15
16 10. ROLLER
11. IDLER GEAR
12. DRIVE GEAR
13. SOLENOID HOUSING
17 14. SEAL RING
15. SPRING
16. BALL
18 17. CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
18. END HOUSING

FIGURE 3. PARTS OF THE STARTER

a. Lift the brush spring at each brush and remove mer that has a plastic or fiber face.
each brush from the brush holder.
d. Use a bearing puller to remove the armature bear-
b. Remove the brush holder from the motor hous- ings from the armature.
ing. Remove the felt washer.
e. Install the positive brushes as shown in
c. Remove the armature from the motor housing by FIGURE 4. The negative brushes are part of the
lightly hitting the motor housing. See FIGURE 4. brush holder. Install a new brush holder as neces-
Do not hit the brushes or brush leads. Use a ham- sary.

4
 9546

Straighten the metal strip. Twist the

9544
Remove the armature from the
motor housing. Use a hammer
that has a plastic or fiber face.
9545
Heat the metal strip using a
solder iron. Remove the brush
lead when the strip is hot and
the solder is liquid.
end of the new brush lead to put the
wires together. Apply heat and some
solder to the end of the brush lead.
Put the insulation sleeve on the brush
lead. Bend the metal strip around the
brush lead. Apply heat and solder to
the strip and brush lead.

FIGURE 4. STARTER MOTOR REPAIR

Assembly And Installation f. Ball and spring in clutch assembly

(See FIGURE 3. and FIGURE 4.)
1. Completely fill the armature bearings using high tem-
perature “Mobiltemp Grease No. 1” or an equivalent
high temperature grease. Use a press to install the bear-
ings on the armature. Use a hammer that has a soft head
to install the armature in the motor housing.
2. Use the same high temperature grease on the follow-
ing parts: (1) drive gear, (2) idler gear, (3) rollers and re-
tainer, (4) spring and ball and (5) clutch assembly.
3. Use the grease to help keep the rollers for the idler
gear in the correct position in the retainer.
4. Do not cause a short–circuit in the leads for the posi-
tive brushes. Make sure the metal strips do not touch the
motor housing or brush holder. See FIGURE 4. Make
sure the brush holder correctly fits in the motor housing.
5. Put grease on these parts as described in Steps 1 and 2.
Assemble the parts of the starter in the following order:
a. Armature bearing and felt washer on the arma-
ture
b. Armature in the motor housing
c. Brush holder in motor housing
d. Brushes in brush holder
e. New O–ring on motor housing
g. Clutch assembly in solenoid housing
h. Motor in solenoid housing
i. Drive gear on splines of armature
j. Idler gear, rollers and retainer on gear shaft of so-
lenoid housing
k. End housing on solenoid housing
l. Screws for end cover and capscrews using new
O–rings
m. Motor lead on solenoid terminal
6. Tighten screws and capscrews to 7 to 12 N.m (5 to 9
lbf ft).
7. Hold the starter in a position to connect the electrical
leads to the BATTERY and S terminals of the starter.
Connect the leads as marked on the labels. Tighten the
BATTERY terminal nut to 4 to 7 N.m (3 to 5 lbf ft).
8. Install the starter on the flywheel housing and connect
the battery cable to the battery negative terminal.
ALTERNATOR
NOTE: The alternators for the 4JB1, 4JG2 and C–240
engines are different. Do only the procedures for your
alternator.

5
Removal And Disassembly, C–240 Engine
(See FIGURE 5. through FIGURE 7.)
CAUTION
There are some checks, for alternator output, that
are done with the alternator installed on the engine.
Do the checks in the CHECKS section BEFORE re-
moving and disassembling the alternator.
of the battery.
2. Put labels on the electrical leads that are not in the al-
ternator connector. Remove the leads from the terminals
and disconnect the connector.
3. Remove the capscrews and nuts that fasten the alter-
nator to the engine bracket. Remove the alternator.

4. Before disassembling the alternator, make marks on

NOTE: Do only the steps that are necessary to install all housings for correct alignment during assembly. Re-
new parts. move the bolts that fasten the housings together. Care-
fully remove the stator and rear housing. Do not let the
1. Disconnect the battery cable at the negative terminal brushes fall during removal.

1. NUT AND LOCKWASHER

2. PULLEY 7
3. FRONT HOUSING
4. BALL BEARING
5. BEARING RETAINER
6. ROTOR 4
7. STATOR 6
8. NUTS
9. AIR DEFLECTOR
10. SPECIAL BOLT
5
11. DIODE ASSEMBLY
12. CAPACITOR 3 4

17
2
8
1

18
12

10
13 15 16

8
13. BRUSH (2)
14. SPRING (2)
14 15. VOLTAGE REGULATOR
10 11 13 AND BRUSH ASSEMBLY
16. REAR HOUSING
17. BOLT
9 18. INSULATOR

FIGURE 5. PARTS OF THE ALTERNATOR, C–240 ENGINE

6
 NOTE: ASSEMBLY CAN BE DIFFERENT
THAN SHOWN.
1 2
3
5 4
1. DIODE ASSEMBLY 4. PLIERS
2. BRUSH ASSEMBLY 5. SOLDERING
3. STATOR IRON
FIGURE 6. REMOVING DIODE ASSEMBLY
5. Put the rotor in a vise that has soft jaws. Do not tighten
the vise to cause rotor distortion. Use a socket wrench to
remove the pulley nut. Remove the pulley and front
housing from the rotor.
6. Remove the three screws that fasten the bearing re-
tainer to the front housing. Remove the bearing retainer
and ball bearing.
7. Remove the nuts that fasten the brush and diode as-
semblies to the rear housing. See FIGURE 5. Remove
the stator and diode assembly from the rear housing. Re-
move the regulator, capacitor, special screws and brush
assembly from the diode assembly.
8. Mark the stator to show the position of the brushes and
connector. Use pliers to keep heat from the diodes. Use a
soldering iron to remove the stator leads from the diode
assembly. See FIGURE 6.
CAUTION
The rear (diode end) bearing cannot be used again
after it has been removed from the shaft. To save la-
bor costs, install new bearings on the shaft whenever
the alternator is disassembled.
9. Use a bearing puller or press to remove the rear bear-
ing from the rotor shaft. See FIGURE 7. Do not damage
the slip rings or shaft.
1. PRESS
1 2. ROTOR
3. BEARING
PULLER
2
3
FIGURE 7. REMOVE THE REAR BEARING
Cleaning
CAUTION
Never use solvent on the stator or rotor windings.
Use a dry cloth to clean these parts. Use solvent on a
cloth to clean other external parts of the alternator.
Dry the parts with compressed air.
WARNING
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic and
can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning sol-
vents, always follow the solvent manufacturer’s rec-
ommended safety procedures.
Use compressed air to remove dirt from the alternator.
Clean the brushes and slip rings with a clean dry cloth.
NOTE: To polish the slip rings, use a fine sandpaper
(number 500 to 600) or equivalent. Turn the rotor while
polishing the slip rings.
Assembly And Installation, C–240 Engine
(See FIGURE 5. through FIGURE 8.)
NOTE: Make sure the brushes, diode assembly and
voltage regulator have been checked and repaired, if
necessary, before assembling the alternator.
1. Hold the diode assembly in a position to connect the
stator leads. Align the brush assembly and connector at
the mark on the stator. Use pliers to hold the stator leads
7
and use a soldering iron to connect the leads to the diode
assembly. See FIGURE 6. Keep the pliers near the diode
assembly to protect the diodes from the heat.
2. Install the special screws, capacitor, voltage regulator
and brush assembly on the diode assembly. Install this
complete assembly in the rear housing. Make sure to
install the insulator on the “B” terminal. The “B” termi-
nal must not touch the end housing. Install the brush
wire to hold the brushes in the brush holder.
3. Install the new ball bearing and the bearing retainer on
the front housing using the three screws.
4. Install a new rear bearing on the rotor shaft using a
press. Do not damage the bearing seals, slip rings or
shaft.
5. Put the rotor in a vise that has soft jaws. Do not tighten
the vise to cause rotor distortion. The end of the shaft
that has threads must be up. Install the front housing,
pulley, lock washer and nut on the shaft. Tighten the nut
using a socket wrench. Remove the assembly from the
vise.
6. Make sure the brush wire is installed in the hole of the
brush holder to hold the brushes in the brush holder. See
FIGURE 8. Align the marks and carefully install the
housing assemblies together. Make sure the stator fits
completely in the front housing. The mount leg of the
rear housing must align with the mount leg of the front
housing.
NOTE: ASSEMBLY CAN BE DIFFERENT
THAN SHOWN.
1 and disconnect the connector.
2
3 fully remove the stator and rear housing from the rotor.
1. REAR ALTERNATOR HOUSING
2. BRUSH WIRE
3. BRUSHES
FIGURE 8. BRUSH WIRE
8
7. Install the bolts and nuts that hold the alternator to-
gether. Tighten the nuts.
CAUTION
To prevent damage to the slip rings, do not remove
the brush wire by pushing toward the edge of the
cover. Pull the brush wire straight out.
8. Remove the brush wire. Install the alternator on the
engine brackets. Make sure the fan belt is on all the pul-
leys and has the correct tension. See the section PE-
RIODIC MAINTENANCE, 8000 SRM 493.
9. Install the alternator connector and leads according to
the labels. Connect the battery cable to the terminal on
the battery.
Removal And Disassembly, 4JB1 And 4JG2
Engines (See FIGURE 6., FIGURE 7.,
FIGURE 9. and FIGURE 10.)
CAUTION
There are some checks, for alternator output, that
are done with the alternator installed on the engine.
Do these checks BEFORE removing and disassem-
bling the alternator.
NOTE: Do only the steps that are necessary to install
new parts.
1. Disconnect the battery cable at the negative terminal
of the battery.
2. Put labels on the electrical leads that are not in the al-
ternator connector. Remove the leads from the terminals
3. Remove the capscrews and nuts that fasten the alter-
nator to the engine bracket. Remove the alternator.
4. Before disassembling the alternator, make marks on
all housings for correct alignment during assembly. Re-
move the bolts that fasten the housings together. Care-
Do not let the brushes fall during removal.
5. Put the rotor in a vise that has soft jaws. Do not tighten
the vise to cause rotor distortion. Use a socket wrench to
remove the pulley nut. Remove the pulley, fan, collar
and front housing from the rotor.
 1. PULLEY NUT AND LOCK WASHER
2. PULLEY 6
3. FAN
4. COLLAR
5. END HOUSING 8
6. BALL BEARING
7. BEARING RETAINER
8. ROTOR
9. STATOR 6 7

9
5

3
18

17

16

15
2
14
1
11
10 9548

12
13. BRUSH
13 14. VOLTAGE REGULATOR
15. DIODE ASSEMBLY
10. SPECIAL MOUNT SCREWS 16. END COVER
11. BRUSH ASSEMBLY 17. DIODE ASSEMBLY NUTS AND BUSHINGS
12. BRUSH SPRING 18. BOLT

FIGURE 9. PARTS OF THE ALTERNATOR, 4JB1 AND 4JG2 ENGINE

6. Remove the three screws that fasten the bearing re-
tainer to the front housing. Remove the bearing retainer
and ball bearing.
7. Remove the nuts that fasten the brush and diode as-
semblies to the end cover. See FIGURE 10. Remove the
stator and diode assembly from the end cover. If neces-
sary, remove the regulator and special screws from the
brush assembly.
8. Mark the stator to show the position of the brushes and
connector. Use pliers to keep heat from the diodes. Use a
soldering iron to remove the stator leads from the diode
assembly. See FIGURE 6.
CAUTION
The rear (diode end) bearing cannot be used again
after it has been removed from the shaft. To save la-
bor costs, install new bearings on the shaft whenever
the alternator is disassembled.
9. Use a bearing puller or press to remove the rear bear-
ing from the rotor shaft. See FIGURE 7. Do not damage
the slip rings or shaft.

9
10. See CHECKS to check and install new brushes,
diode assembly or voltage regulator.
Cleaning
CAUTION
Never use solvent on the stator or rotor windings.
Use a dry cloth to clean these parts. Use solvent on a
cloth to clean other external parts of the alternator.
Dry the parts with compressed air.
WARNING
Cleaning solvents can be flammable and toxic and
can cause skin irritation. When using cleaning sol-
vents, always follow the solvent manufacturer’s rec-
ommended safety procedures.
Use compressed air to remove dirt from the alternator.
Clean the brushes and slip rings with a clean dry cloth.
NOTE: To polish the slip rings, use sandpaper (number
500 to 600) or equivalent. Turn the rotor while polishing
the slip rings.
Assembly And Installation, 4JB1 And 4JG2
Engines (See FIGURE 6. through FIGURE 10.)
NOTE: Make sure the brushes, diode assembly and
voltage regulator have been checked and repaired, if
necessary, before assembling the alternator.
1. Hold the diode assembly in a position to connect the
stator leads. Align the brush assembly and connector at
the mark on the stator. Use pliers to hold the stator leads
and use a soldering iron to connect the leads to the diode
assembly. See FIGURE 6. Keep the pliers near the diode
assembly to protect the diodes from the heat.
2. Install the voltage regulator on the brush assembly.
3. Install the new ball bearing and the bearing retainer on
the end housing using the three screws.
4. Install a new rear bearing on the rotor shaft using a
press. Do not damage the bearing seals, slip rings or
shaft.
10
2 3
1 4
5
6
5
7
8 5139
5. GROUND TERMINAL
1. NUTS AND SPECIAL 6. BATTERY TERMINAL
SCREWS FOR (BAT)
BRUSH ASSEMBLY 7. INSULATOR
2. CONNECTOR BUSHING
3. “R” TERMINAL 8. DIODE ASSEMBLY
4. “L” TERMINAL NUTS
FIGURE 10. ALTERNATOR, REAR VIEW
5. Put the rotor in a vise that has soft jaws. Do not tighten
the vise to cause rotor distortion. The end of the shaft
that has threads must be up. Install the end housing, col-
lar, fan, pulley, lock washer and nut on the shaft. Tighten
the nut using a socket wrench. Remove the assembly
from the vise.
6. Align the marks and carefully install the rear end
housing over the diode assembly and stator. Make sure
to install the insulator on the “B” terminal. The “B” ter-
minal must not touch the end housing.
7. Make sure the brush wire is installed in the hole of the
brush holder to hold the brushes in the brush holder. See
FIGURE 8. Carefully install the stator and diode assem-
bly on the rotor and front end housing. The mount leg of
the rear housing must align with the mount leg of the
front housing.
8. Install the bolts and nuts that hold the alternator to-
gether. Tighten the nuts.
CAUTION
To prevent damage to the slip rings, do not remove
the brush wire by pushing toward the edge of the
cover. Pull the brush wire straight out.
9. Remove the brush wire. Install the alternator on the
engine brackets. Make sure the fan belt is on all the pul-
leys and has the correct tension. See the section PE-
RIODIC MAINTENANCE, 8000 SRM 493.
CHECKS
GENERAL
There are no adjustments for the starter, cold start aid,
alternator or voltage regulator.
Remove the battery cables and clean the terminals and
cable connectors. Inspect the insulation on the wires.
Make sure all the fasteners and connections are clean
and tight. If necessary, use a water and soda solution to
clean the top of the battery. Do NOT remove the cell
caps or permit the water and soda solution to get in the
battery.


Put the transmission in NEUTRAL. Apply the park-
ing brake.
CAUTION
Do not change the polarity of the circuits. Do not con-
nect any wires in the circuits, except as described in
these instructions. Never connect the wire from the
terminal marked “BAT” to an open circuit.
When connecting a charger or another battery, connect
the positive terminals to the positive terminal of the bat-
tery. Then connect the negative terminal to a clean metal
part of the engine. Disconnect the charger or other bat-
tery in the reverse order. Problems in the charging cir-
cuit are indicated by one or more of the following:
a. The starter motor turns slowly. The battery volt-
age is low because of low alternator output or a
bad battery.
10. Install the alternator connector and leads according
to the labels. Connect the battery cable to the terminal on
the battery.
REPLACING GLOW PLUGS
The glow plugs for the cold start aid are directly below
the injectors on the engine. They cannot be repaired. See
CHECKS of this section. Disconnect the electrical wire
at the metal strip connected to all the glow plugs. Re-
move the nuts from all of the glow plugs and remove the
metal strip. Use a wrench to remove the glow plugs and
install the new glow plugs. Install the metal strip and
wire.
b. The specific gravity readings are low. Battery is
not fully charged or is damaged.
c. The battery uses more than 30 ml (one ounce) of
water per cell per month. The alternator output is
too high.
STARTER
Starter Operation (See FIGURE 11.)
The starter is in good condition if the results of this
check are within the specifications. If the results are
within specifications, additional checks or starter repair
is not necessary.
CAUTION
Make sure the minimum cable size to the starter and
ammeter are 25 mm2 (gauge 4).
1. Remove the starter as described under REPAIRS in
this section. Put the starter in a vise so that it cannot
move.
2. Use a 12 volt battery that has a full charge. Use an am-
meter that has a minimum capacity of 150 amperes.
Connect the circuit shown in FIGURE 11. Do not con-
nect the negative lead of the battery to the starter.
3. Hold the negative lead on the starter housing and
check the indications on the meters. Remove the nega-
tive lead.
4. The starter is in good condition if all of the following
items are correct:
11
 Solenoid Coil Checks (See FIGURE 12.)

1
2 3 The two parts of the solenoid coil work together to push
the clutch assembly out of the housing. After the clutch
assembly is out, one coil deenergizes and the other coil
keeps the assembly out. The clutch assembly must re-
8 turn to the housing when the second part of the coil is de-
5
4 energized.

7
CAUTION
Do not take more than 3 to 5 seconds to do each of
9550 these checks. Power connected for a longer period
6 can burn the coil.
1. STARTER 5. NEGATIVE LEAD
2. 150A AMMETER 6. VISE 1. Put the starter in a vise so that it cannot move. Discon-
3. VOLTMETER 7. “S” TERMINAL nect the motor lead from the solenoid C terminal.
4. 12V BATTERY 8. BATTERY TERMINAL

FIGURE 11. STARTER TEST
a. Clutch assembly moves to engage flywheel.
b. Smooth rotation occurs just after clutch move-
ment.
c. Voltmeter must indicate at least 11.5 volts.
d. Ammeter must indicate 120 amperes or less.
1
2 A
A 4
7 3
B b. Clutch assembly stays out after wire B is re-
2
6
2. Use 4 mm2 (12 gauge) or larger wire to connect the
circuit shown in FIGURE 12. Do NOT connect wire A
from the positive terminal of the battery to the solenoid
S terminal. Use a 12 volt battery that has a full charge.
3. Make sure wire B to the motor C terminal can be
quickly disconnected.
4. Do not keep power connected to the solenoid for more
than 3 to 5 seconds. Be ready to quickly remove wire B
then wire A from the solenoid terminals. Connect wire
A to terminal S. Remove wire B. Remove wire A. Check
for the following correct solenoid operations:
a. Clutch assembly pushed out as wire A is con-
B nected.
moved.
c. Clutch assembly returns to housing after wire A
is removed.

5. If all of the checks of Steps 4a, 4b and 4c are not cor-

5
1. STARTER 9551
rect, install a new starter.
2. MOTOR LEAD
DISCONNECTED Brush Length
3. MOTOR “C” TERMINAL
4. 12V BATTERY
5. VISE To check the length of the brushes, the motor must be re-
6. “S” TERMINAL moved from the solenoid housing. Remove the starter
7. BATTERY TERMINAL
motor from the solenoid housing. See the REPAIRS
FIGURE 12. SOLENOID COIL CHECKS section of this SRM section. Measure from end–to–end
of each brush. The minimum length is 9.5 mm (0.4 in).

12

1 2
9553
2
3 Glow Plugs
NOTE: BRUSH ASSEMBLY CAN BE DIFFERENT
THAN SHOWN.
1. NEGATIVE BRACKETS
2. POSITIVE BRACKETS
3. MOUNT PLATE
FIGURE 13. CHECK THE BRUSH HOLDER
Brush Holder (See FIGURE 13.)
Remove the brush holder from the motor housing as de-
scribed in under REPAIRS. Remove the brushes from
the brush holder. Connect an ohmmeter between each
bracket that holds each brush and the mount plate for the
brackets. The readings for the two positive brackets
must be infinity. The indications for the two other brack-
ets must be zero ohms.
Armature
Remove the armature as described under REPAIRS.
Use an ohmmeter. Check for a correct infinity reading
between any commutator bar and the metal bars of the
core and between the bars and shaft. Check for a correct
reading of continuity between any two commutator
bars. If any check is wrong, install a new armature.
Field Windings
Remove the motor, brush holder and armature as de-
scribed under REPAIRS. Use ohmmeter to check for
continuity between the positive brush and electrical lead
of the motor. Check for an indication of infinity between
a positive brush and the motor housing. If the indication
is not infinity, check that the brush lead connections are
not touching the housing. If either check is wrong,
install a new motor housing.
Clutch And Bearings
Check the teeth of the gear and the teeth on the circum-
ference of the clutch assembly. If the teeth are worn or
damaged, install a new clutch assembly. If the gear will
rotate in both directions, install a new clutch assembly.
Check that the armature bearings will rotate freely and
smoothly. The bearings must not be loose.
COLD START AID
Use an ohmmeter to check the glow plugs of the cold
start aid. Check for 1.8 ohms between the barrel and the
electrical terminal. If the ohmmeter indicates zero or in-
finity, install a new glow plug.
Fuse
Find the fuse for the cold start aid on the fuse panel in the
truck instrument panel. Remove the fuse. Use an ohm-
meter to check the fuse for continuity. If there is no con-
tinuity, check the wires and connections between the
fuse and the relay for a short–circuit. Install a new fuse.
Relay And Timer
The relay is on a bracket at the battery tray. See
FIGURE 14. Remove the wire connectors for the “BU”
“BZ” wires. Use an ohmmeter set to a low scale to check
for continuity between the terminals. If there is a short–
circuit or infinity reading, the relay coil is bad. If there is
a very low resistance reading, the coil is good. Install the
wire connectors on the terminals.
Remove the wire connector for the “BO” “BR” wires.
Use an ohmmeter set to a low scale to check for continu-
ity between the “BO” “BR” terminals. If there is a short–
circuit reading, the relay contacts are welded. Install a
new relay. If there is an infinity reading, install the wire
connectors on the terminals.
There is no good check for the timer. Check the wires
and connectors for the timer at the timer Also check the
connectors and wires between the timer, starter, key
switch, relay, instrument panel indicator and thermal
switch. See the section DIAGRAMS, 8000 SRM 504.
If all connections and wires are good, install a new the
timer.
13

1
2
3 NOTE: Make sure the wire from the voltmeter makes
1. BRACKET 2. RELAY 3. TIMER
FIGURE 14. RELAY AND TIMER
FOR GLOW PLUG CIRCUIT
CHARGING CIRCUIT
Always check the general condition of the complete sys-
tem before doing a complete check on each part. Check
the general condition of the following parts: (1) battery,
(2) battery cables and connections and (3) alternator and
regulator wires and connectors. Also check the condi-
tion and tension of the fan belt for the alternator.
CAUTION
NEVER operate the engine if the alternator out-
put“BAT” terminal is not connected to the battery.
NEVER connect the wire from the “BAT” terminal
to the electrical ground.
Make sure polarity is correct before connecting a
battery charger or another battery.
The two problems of the charging circuit are low output
and high output. Low output causes a low battery and
difficult starting. A high output causes heating of the
battery and evaporation of water from the electrolyte.
The following two checks will find out if the alternator,
regulator or wiring has the charging fault. The two
checks will also find out if the charging system has a cor-
rect output. Do the following two checks before remov-
al, disassembly or installation of a new alternator or reg-
ulator.
Check For Low Output (See FIGURE 15.)
CAUTION
Make sure tips on meter leads touch only the points
or terminals to be checked.
14
Make sure the tips are small enough to touch the ter-
minals in the connectors. The tip must touch the ter-
minal. It must not touch just the wire insulation. The
tip must not damage the connector, terminal or wire.
contact with each terminal on the alternator.
1. Connect a voltmeter between the “BAT” terminal and
the electrical ground. Turn the key switch to the “ON“
position and check the reading.
2. Carefully remove the connector plug from the back of
the alternator. Connect a voltmeter to the “L” terminal
and the “R” terminal. Turn the key switch to the “ON“
position and check the reading.
3. If there are no readings on the voltmeter during Steps
1 and 2, check for an open circuit between each alterna-
tor terminal and the battery.
4. If there are readings on the voltmeter during Steps 1
and 2, disconnect the cable for the electrical ground
(negative) at the battery.
5. Disconnect the lead from the “BAT” terminal of the
alternator. Connect an ammeter between the lead and the
“BAT” terminal. See FIGURE 15. Make sure the con-
nector of the lead does not make a short–circuit to any
metal part of the lift truck.
6. Connect the ground cable to the negative terminal of
the battery.
7. Connect a special carbon resistor across the terminals
of the battery. The special carbon resistor is made for
checking batteries.


The special carbon resistor can get hot during this
check. Use care to prevent injury.
During engine operation, be careful not to touch pul-
leys, fans or belts in the engine area. Contact with
these parts can cause an injury.
8. Start the engine and operate it at 2000 to 2500 rpm.
Adjust the carbon resistor for maximum current on the
ammeter.
9. The reading on the ammeter must be within the cur-
rent specifications. See the section CAPACITIES
AND SPECIFICATIONS, 8000 SRM 503.
10. If the reading is within specifications, the alternator
is in good condition. Check the starter or wires. If the
starter and wires are good, the battery can be damaged or 4. Increase the engine speed until the maximum voltage
too old. reading is reached.

11. If the reading of Step 9 is low, do NOT do the check
for high alternator output. Remove the alternator hen
do the other checks for the alternator. If the reading of
Step 9 is high or within the current specifications, do the
check for high alternator output.
5. If the voltage shown is more than 14.5 volts, remove
the alternator, then do the other alternator checks.
ALTERNATOR
Diodes Circuit (See FIGURE 16.)

NOTE: Disassemble the alternator for this check and

1 the remainder of the alternator checks. The stator must
4 be disconnected from the diode assembly to do the fol-
2 lowing checks. See REPAIRS of this section.

1. Use an ohmmeter set to the x10 scale to check the pos-

itive and negative diode sets.
NOTE: Some ohmmeters use a reverse polarity. The
3 “correct indications” will be opposite for these ohmme-
7 ters for Steps 3 and 4.

2. Find the electrical connection points on the diode as-

sembly for the three terminals “BAT”, “L” and “E”.
3. Connect the positive ohmmeter lead to point “A”.
Connect the negative ohmmeter lead to the alternator
5 “BAT”, “L” and “E” terminal connection points in se-
6 quence. Do this check again with the positive ohmmeter
5139

1. CARBON RESISTOR 5. ALTERNATOR lead at point “B” and again with the positive lead at
2. BATTERY 6. “BAT” TERMINAL point”C”. The correct indications are a very low resis-
3. AMMETER 7. “L” TERMINAL tance or a short–circuit between the positive and nega-
4. STARTER tive ohmmeter leads for each of the nine checks. See
FIGURE 15. CHECK ALTERNATOR OUTPUT FIGURE 16. If there is an open circuit (infinity reading)
at any check, that diode is bad and a new one must be
Check For High Output (See FIGURE 15.) installed. See REPAIRS of this section.
4. Do Step 3 again with the negative ohmmeter lead at
1. Connect a voltmeter from the “R” terminal to the elec- the test points “A” through “C”and the positive lead at
trical ground. Check the reading on the voltmeter. the connection points for the ammeter terminals. The
2. If there is no reading, check for an open circuit be- correct indications are an open–circuit between the neg-
tween the “R” terminal and the battery. ative and positive ohmmeter leads for each of the nine
checks. See FIGURE 16. If there is a short–circuit at any
3. If there is a reading, connect a voltmeter between the check, that diode is bad and a new one must be installed.
“BAT” terminal and the electrical ground. See REPAIRS of this section.

15
 1 2

9542
3
1. POINT “A” 3. POINT “C”
2. POINT “B” 4. TERMINALS FOR OTHER OHMMETER LEAD
FIGURE 16. DIODE ASSEMBLY
Rotor Coil (See FIGURE 17.) 2. Use an ohmmeter to check for 4 ohms resistance be-
tween the slip rings.
1. Check and clean the slip rings using a dry cloth. If the
3. If the ohmmeter indication is infinity or zero, install a
slip rings have a rough surface, polish them. Use sand-
new rotor.
paper (number 500 to 600) or equivalent.
4. Set the ohmmeter to a high range. Check between a
slip ring and a rotor pole as shown in FIGURE 17. The
indication must be infinity.
5. If the ohmmeter reading is not infinity, install a new
rotor.
Stator Coil (See FIGURE 18.)

1. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between all

four stator leads.
2. If there is no continuity between any two leads, install
a new stator.
3. Use an ohmmeter set to a high range. Check for a
9552 short–circuit between stator leads and stator frame. The
indication must be infinity.
FIGURE 17. ROTOR COIL CHECKS 4. If any indication is not infinity, install a new stator.

16
 4. Check armature bearings for smooth operation. Bear-
ings must not be loose or have seal leaks.
Check The Voltage Regulator

Use a voltage regulator test device. Follow the direc-

tions that come with the test device. Do not use an ohm-
meter. If the voltage regulator has damage, install a new
voltage regulator. See REPAIRS of this section.

1
2

9555

FIGURE 18. STATOR CHECKS

Brushes And Bearings (See FIGURE 19.)

3
1. Check each brush for a minimum brush length on the 4
9558
shortest side of 5.5 mm (0.2 in).
NOTE: ASSEMBLY CAN BE DIFFERENT
2. Check the brush springs. Install new springs if the THAN SHOWN.
spring(s) is broken or has rust or distortion. If brushes
1. BRUSH HOLDER 3. BRUSH LENGTH
have changed color from heat or they are weak, new 2. BRUSH SPRING 4. BRUSH
springs must be installed. (INSIDE)

3. Check brush holder for cracks or damage. FIGURE 19. BRUSHES

17

PROBLEM
Starter does not run or has
low speed.
10. Worn or damaged starter gears.
11. Bearings in starter are worn or
Starter operates, but engine
crankshaft does not rotate.
Starter keeps running
Battery does not stay
charged.
18
TROUBLESHOOTING
POSSIBLE CAUSE PROCEDURE OR ACTION
1. Battery discharged. 1. Charge battery or install a new
battery.
2. Loose wiring connections or bro- 2. Check and repair wiring.
ken wires.
3. Key switch has damage. 3. Install a new key switch.
4. Solenoid coil or switch contacts 4. Repair or install a new solenoid.
have damage.
5. Weak brush springs in starter. 5. Install new brush springs.
6. Brush leads are broken or have a 6. Install new brush leads.
short–circuit.
7. Commutator in starter is dirty or 7. Repair starter.
worn.
8. Armature winding in starter has 8. Repair starter.
damage.
9. Field windings in starter have 9. Install new field windings.
damage.
10. Install new gears.
11. Install new bearings.
damaged.
1. Wiring connections are broken, 1. Repair wiring.
loose or have corrosion.
2. Clutch assembly has damage. 2. Install a new clutch.
3. Solenoid has damage and will not 3. Install a new solenoid.
keep the clutch assembly en-
gaged.
4. Clutch assembly will not slide eas- 4. Repair or install a new clutch.
ily.
5. Gear teeth on clutch assembly are 5. Install a new clutch.
damaged.
6. Gear teeth on ring gear are dam- 6. Install a new ring gear.
aged.
7. Key switch has damage. 7. Install a new key switch.
1. Contacts of solenoid are welded 1. Repair or install a new solenoid.
together.
2. Solenoid coil has a short–circuit. 2. Repair or install a new solenoid.
3. Spring for disengaging the clutch 3. Install a new clutch.
assembly is broken.
1. Battery terminals have corrosion. 1. Clean battery terminals.
2. Battery has internal damage. 2. Install a new battery.
3. Drive belt is loose. 3. Adjust drive belt.
4. Wiring connections are broken, 4. Repair wiring.
loose or have corrosion.
5. Short–circuit between wiring con- 5. Repair wiring.
nector(s).
6. Alternator brushes are worn. 6. Install new brushes.
7. Alternator brushes have weak 7. Install new brush springs.
springs.

PROBLEM
Battery does not stay
charged.
10. Regulator in alternator has dam-
Battery is charged more than
necessary.
Battery uses more water than
normal.
There is no charge from the
alternator. The indicator light
indicates a discharge condi-
tion when the rpm is high and
the load is high.
Discharge indicator indicates
a discharge condition at all
engine speeds.
Glow plugs do not operate.
TROUBLESHOOTING
POSSIBLE CAUSE PROCEDURE OR ACTION
8. Alternator has dirty slip rings. 8. Clean slip rings.
9. Stator coil of alternator has a 9. Install a new stator coil.
short–circuit.
10. Install a new regulator.
age.
1. Wiring connections are broken, 1. Repair wiring.
loose or have corrosion.
2. Short–circuit between wiring con- 2. Repair wiring.
nector(s).
3. Field coil in alternator has dam- 3. Install a new field coil.
age.
4. Regulator in alternator has a dam- 4. Install a new regulator.
age.
5. High resistance in the circuit. 5. Repair wiring.
1. Battery is being charged more 1. Check charging circuit.
than normal.
2. Alternator has damage in the sta- 2. Repair or install a new alternator.
tor windings, diodes, rectifier
bridge, rotor or voltage regulator.
3. Battery is damaged. 3. Install a new battery.
1. Drive belt is not tight or is broken. 1. Adjust or install a new belt.
2. The brushes are worn or dam- 2. Install new brushes.
aged.
3. Weak brush springs. Brushes do 3. Install new brush springs. Clean
not move freely in the brush hold- brush holder.
ers.
4. Dirt on the slip rings. 4. Clean the slip rings.
5. There is an electrical ground in the 5. Install a new field winding.
field winding.
1. There is a short–circuit in the 1. Install new diodes.
diodes.
2. There is an electrical ground at 2. Install new winding.
the end of the windings.
3. The voltage regulator has dam- 3. Install a new voltage regulator.
age.
1. Loose or broken wires or connec- 1. Repair wiring.
tors in glow plug circuit.
2. Glow plugs burned out or dam- 2. Install new glow plugs.
aged.
3. Relay is damaged. 3. Install a new relay.
4. Timer is damaged. 4. Install a new timer.
19
 INTRODUCTION
GENERAL start switch is in the ON position when the transmission
is in NEUTRAL.
This section has the descriptions and service procedures
for the electrical systems used on the Mazda M4–2.0G
gasoline or LPG engine. This section includes the start- 1
ing, ignition, and charging systems.

CAUTION 2
When using an arc welder, always disconnect the
ground lead from the lift truck battery to prevent
alternator or battery damage. Attach the welding
ground clamp as close to the weld area as possible to 6
prevent welding current from damaging the 7
bearings.
The diodes and resistors in the electrical system can
3
be damaged if the following cautions are not
followed: 5
• Do not disconnect the battery when the engine
is running. The voltage surge can damage the 4
diodes and resistors in the electrical system. 1. BATTERY
• Do not disconnect an electric wire before the 2. KEY SWITCH
engine is stopped and the switches are “OFF”. 3. NEUTRAL START SWITCH
4. STARTER
• Do not cause a short–circuit by connecting the 5. “S” TERMINAL
electric wires to the wrong terminals. Make 6. BATTERY TERMINAL
sure a correct identification is made of the wire 7. DISCONNECT SWITCH
(EEC ONLY)
before it is connected.
• Make sure a battery is the correct voltage and FIGURE 1. THE STARTING CIRCUIT
polarity before it is connected.
• Do not check for current flow by making a Ignition System (See FIGURE 2.)
spark because the electronic components can
The ignition system generates a spark at each spark plug
be damaged.
to start combustion in each cylinder. The ignition sys-
DESCRIPTION tem has the following main parts: battery, key switch,
coil, distributor, spark plugs, and wires.
Starting System (See FIGURE 1.)
If the starter is operating, current flows from the battery,
The starting system includes the starter, battery, key through the key switch and the neutral start switch to en-
switch, and neutral start switch. The starter solenoid is ergize the starter solenoid. Current also flows through
energized when current flows through the key switch, the key switch, coil primary, and distributor. The dis-
neutral start switch, and solenoid. The solenoid mag- tributor opens and closes the coil primary circuit as the
netically pushes the clutch out to engage the engine fly- starter rotates the engine crankshaft. The opening and
wheel teeth. The solenoid also closes contacts to ener- closing of the circuit causes the primary current and
gize the starter motor. These operations occur at ap- magnetic field in the coil to change. The changing mag-
proximately the same time. The motor torque is applied netic field generates a high voltage in the secondary
just as the teeth engage. The key switch must be in the winding of the coil. The distributor sends this high volt-
START position. The neutral start switch must also be age to each spark plug at the correct time for combus-
in the ON position to energize the starter. The neutral tion.

1
 7 2 Charging System (See FIGURE 3.)
1

The charging system includes the key switch, the battery

and the alternator, and voltage regulator. The key switch
connects battery voltage to the regulator. The regulator
controls the alternator to charge the battery. Battery
3 voltage decreases as the starting circuit and other cir-
cuits take energy from the battery. The regulator senses
4
this decrease in battery voltage and increases the alter-
nator output to charge the battery. The alternator is
5 either ON or OFF. The alternator generates maximum
6 9578
current when it is ON and no current when it is OFF. The
1. BATTERY 5. DISTRIBUTOR regulator switches the alternator between ON and OFF
2. KEY SWITCH 6. SPARK PLUG to get the average current needed to charge the battery.
3. NEUTRAL 7. DISCONNECT Alternator output is directly changed by engine speed
START SWITCH SWITCH (EEC
4. COIL ONLY) and rotor current.

FIGURE 2. THE IGNITION CIRCUIT

When the engine is running, current flows from the bat-
tery, through the key switch, coil, and distributor and
then returns to the battery. Distributor operation is the
same during engine starting or running conditions ex-
cept for the timing advance mechanisms.
The alternator has four main parts that include the stator,
the rotor, the diode assembly, and the voltage regulator.
Mechanical power from the engine turns the rotor inside
the stator windings. The voltage regulator controls the
flow of battery current to the rotor brushes, slip rings,
and rotor windings. A magnetic field that rotates is the
result of this current flow in the stator windings.

2 3

5
4
6

9542
8
10 7
9
1. ALTERNATOR 4. INDICATOR 7. REGULATOR 10. DIODE TRIO
2. CONNECTOR 5. KEY SWITCH 8. STATOR
3. OTHER BATTERY CIRCUITS 6. BATTERY 9. ROTOR
FIGURE 3. THE CHARGING CIRCUIT

2
The alternating current (AC) generated by the alternator
is changed to direct current (DC) by the diodes to be-
come the alternator output. The output from the alterna-
REPAIRS
GENERAL
NOTE: Use the TROUBLESHOOTING and CHECKS
AND ADJUSTMENTS sections of this section before
starting any repair procedures. Make sure that repair or
replacement of that part is necessary before removal,
disassembly, or replacement of the part.
WARNING
Always disconnect the battery ground cable before
making repairs to prevent possible damage and
injury. Install a tag on the battery terminal so that no
one connects the cable on the terminal.
STARTER
Removal and Disassembly (See FIGURE 5.)
NOTE: Do only the steps that are necessary to replace
the part that has damage.
1. Disconnect the battery cable at the negative terminal
of the battery. Install a tag on the battery terminal to
warn against connecting the cable.
2. Remove the plate that fastens to the engine between
the fuel pump and starter.
3. Put labels on the electrical leads to the starter for cor-
rect connection during installation. Remove all electri-
cal leads fastened to the starter.
4. Hold the starter so that it will not fall. Remove the two
capscrews that fasten the starter to the flywheel housing
and remove the starter.
5. Put the starter on a work bench. Remove the nut, lock
washer, washer, and strap from the motor terminal on
the solenoid.
6. Remove the three screws that fasten the solenoid to
the drive housing and remove the solenoid. Remove the
spring and washers.
7. Remove the two long bolts and the two screws that
fasten the end cover of the motor. Remove the cover. Re-
move the washers from the armature shaft.
tor connects to the positive terminal of the battery to
charge the battery.
8. Lift the brush springs and remove the brushes from
the brush holders. Remove the brush holder assembly
from the field housing. Move the field housing from the
armature and drive housing.
9. Measure the length of the brushes. Measure from
end–to–end of each brush. The standard length is 17 mm
(0.67 in). The minimum brush length is 11.5 mm (0.45
in). Install new brushes as shown in FIGURE 4. Install a
new brush holder to replace the negative brushes.
Use a hammer to break the brush from the wire.
Use a soldering iron to remove the old solder from
the wire. Twist the end of the brush wire to put the
wires together. Put the wire in the brush and sol-
der the brush to the wire. Make sure the solder
surface on the brush is flat.
FIGURE 4. STARTER MOTOR BRUSHES
10. Remove the springs seat, springs, and washer for the
lever. Remove the armature, clutch assembly, solenoid
plunger, and lever. Remove the lever from the clutch as-
sembly.
11. Use a small pipe or tube to slide the retainer off the
snap ring. Remove the snap ring and retainer from the
armature shaft. Remove the clutch assembly from the
armature shaft.
3
 1. SOLENOID ASSEMBLY
2. LEVER
3. BUSHING 1
4. DRIVE HOUSING
5. WASHER
6. LOCK RING
7. SPACER 5
8. CLUTCH
9. ARMATURE 2
10. FIELD HOUSING
11. BRUSH
12. BRUSH SPRING
13. BRUSH HOLDER 9
14. COVER

7
6
5

4
11
3
14
3
10
13

12

11

FIGURE 5. PARTS OF THE STARTER

Assembly and Installation (See FIGURE 5.)
1. Install the clutch assembly on the armature shaft. See
FIGURE 5. Install the retainer and snap ring to hold the
clutch assembly on the armature shaft.
3. Install the field housing over the armature. Carefully
install the brush holder assembly in the field housing.
Make sure that the assembly is in the correct position.
Make sure that the brush leads are free.
4. Lift the brush springs and install all of the brushes. In-
stall the washers on the armature shaft. See FIGURE 5.

2. Install the lever on the clutch assembly. Install the so-
lenoid plunger on the lever. Install the armature, clutch
assembly, solenoid plunger, and lever in the drive hous-
ing. Install the washer springs and spring seat for the
lever in the drive housing.
5. Install the end cover, the two long bolts, and the two
screws that fasten the end cover.
6. Install the solenoid washers, spring, and solenoid on
the drive housing using the screws. Connect the strap
from the motor to the motor terminal of the solenoid. In-

4
stall the washer, lock washer, and nut on the motor ter- DISTRIBUTOR, H1.50–1.75XM, H2.00XMS
minal. Tighten the nut. (S/H25–35XM, S/H40XMS)
7. Install the starter on the flywheel housing using the Removal And Disassembly (See FIGURE 7.)
two capscrews. NOTE: Do only the steps that are necessary to replace
the part that has damage.
8. Install all the electrical leads to the correct solenoid
terminals as marked on the labels. Install the plate that 1. Loosen the screws that fasten the distributor cap to the
fastens to the engine between the fuel pump and starter. distributor. Remove the cap and heat sink. If the cap will
be replaced, remove the wires from the cap. Make a note
9. Connect the battery cable to the negative terminal of for correct installation of wires in the replacement cap.
the battery. 2. Disconnect the vacuum line from the vacuum control.
Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap.
H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM) SHOWN 3. Make alignment marks on the engine and distributor
housing for correct alignment during installation. Make
1 3 a mark on the edge of the distributor housing for rotor
2
alignment for correct installation. Remove the nut and
washers that fasten the flange of the distributor housing
to the engine block. Slowly remove the distributor hous-
ing from the engine without turning the housing.
NOTE: The rotor will turn as the distributor is removed.
Make a note of the direction and amount of rotation from
the mark on the edge of the distributor housing.
4. Remove the signal rotor and rotor. Remove the pick–
6
4 5 up assembly and cover.
5. Remove the screws for the electronic module. Re-
move the electronic module and breaker assembly.
4. IGNITION COIL
1. ENGINE 5. SCREW, NUT, 6. Disconnect the vacuum advance mechanism. Re-
2. DISTRIBUTOR AND WASHER (2) move the screws that fasten the vacuum advance mecha-
3. BATTERY 6. BATTERY BRACKET
nism to the distributor housing. Remove the vacuum ad-
FIGURE 6. COIL REPLACEMENT vance mechanism from the housing.
7. Put the drive gear in a vise that has soft jaws. Tighten
the vise just enough to keep the gear from turning in the
COIL REPLACEMENT vise. Do not damage the drive gear. Remove the screw
from the bore in the top end of the shaft. Remove the
The coil is installed on a bracket near the battery tray. timing advance parts.
8. Put the distributor housing on a block that is a support
1. Put labels on the wires connected to the coil for cor-
for the bottom shaft near the drive gear. Use a punch and
rect connection during installation.
hammer to carefully remove the roll pin. Do not damage
2. Remove the two capscrews, nuts and washers that fas- the drive gear. Remove the drive gear and oil seal. Re-
ten the coil to the battery bracket. move the shaft.

4. Install the replacement coil using the capscrews, nuts, CAUTION

and washers. Do NOT move the engine crankshaft while the dis-
tributor is removed. The distributor will not be
5. Connect all wires to the coil as marked on the labels. installed correctly.

5
 7
1

11

8
12

13 2
3
4

9
5

14

6
15

1. CAP
2. HEAT SINK 10
3. SIGNAL ROTOR
4. ROTOR
5. PICK–UP ASSEMBLY
6. COVER
7. ELECTRONIC MODULE 10. OIL SEAL 13. VACUUM ADVANCE UNIT
8. BREAKER ASSEMBLY 11. SEAL 14. ROLL PIN
9. TIMING ADVANCE UNIT 12. HOUSING 15. DRIVE GEAR

FIGURE 7. PARTS OF THE DISTRIBUTOR, H1.50–1.75XM, H2.00XMS (S/H25–35XM, S/H40XMS)

Assembly and Installation (See FIGURE 7.) fine abrasive cloth must be number 500 to 600. Remove
all dust and put a very thin layer of grease on each pin.
CAUTION
Make sure the distributor shaft is clean and smooth. 3. Install the vacuum advance mechanism on the distrib-
Make sure the bore for the shaft is clean. utor housing with the hole in the arm over the pin on the
breaker assembly. Install the screw that fastens the vacu-
1. Put engine oil on the shaft. Install the shaft in the dis- um advance mechanism to the distributor housing.
tributor housing. Install the oil seal and drive gear. Align
the hole in the gear with the hole in the shaft and install 4. Install the breaker assembly on the top shaft. Install
the roll pin. the electronic module.
2. Assemble and install the timing advance mechanism 5. Install the cover and pick–up assembly. Install the ro-
as shown in FIGURE 7. Make sure the weights can tor and signal rotor.
move easily on the pins. If necessary, use fine abrasive
cloth to polish the pins and the holes in the weights. The 6. Install the heat sink and distributor cap.

6

CAUTION
If the engine crankshaft has been moved since the
distributor was removed, see the repair procedures
for the engine to correctly install the distributor. Do
not do Step 8.
7. Align the marks on the engine and distributor hous-
ing. Align the rotor with the mark on the distributor
housing and move the rotor to the position as described
in the NOTE of the removal procedure. When the instal-
lation is correct, the rotor/distributor housing mark and
the distributor housing/engine marks will all be correct-
ly aligned. Tighten the capscrews that fasten the housing
to the engine.
8. Connect the wires to the distributor. If necessary, con-
nect the spark plug wires to the correct spark plugs. Con-
nect the vacuum line to the vacuum advance mecha-
nism.
DISTRIBUTOR,
S/H2.00–3.20XM (S/H40–65XM)
Removal and Disassembly (See FIGURE 8.)
NOTE: Do only the steps that are necessary to replace
the part that has damage.
1. Loosen the two screws that fasten the distributor cap
to the distributor. Remove the cap. If the cap will be re-
placed, remove the wires from the cap. Make a note for
correct installation of wires in replacement cap.
2. Disconnect the vacuum line from the vacuum ad-
vance mechanism. Remove the coil wire from the dis-
tributor cap.
3. Make alignment marks on the engine and distributor
housing for correct alignment during installation. Make
a mark on the edge of the distributor housing for rotor
alignment for correct installation. Remove the nut and
washers that fasten the flange of the distributor housing
to the engine block. Slowly remove the distributor hous-
ing from the engine without turning the housing.
NOTE: The rotor will turn as the distributor is removed.
Make a note of the direction and amount of rotation from
the mark on the edge of the distributor housing.
4. Remove the rotor, seal ring, and cover.
5. Remove the two screws that fasten the electronic
module and sensing coil assembly to the heat sink. Dis-
connect and remove the electronic module from the
sensing coil assembly. Disconnect the two electrical
leads for the electronic module. Remove the wire and
grommet assembly from the slot in the side of the dis-
tributor housing.
6. Remove the snap ring that fastens the arm of the vac-
uum advance mechanism. Remove the two screws that
fasten the vacuum advance mechanism to the distributor
housing. Remove the vacuum advance mechanism from
the housing.
7. Remove the two screws on the outside of the housing
that fasten the heat sink. The heat sink is the base for the
electronic module and sensing coil assembly.
8. Remove the two screws that fasten the breaker assem-
bly to the inside of the distributor housing.
9. Put the drive gear in a vise that has soft jaws. Tighten
the vise just enough to keep the gear from turning in the
vise. Do not damage the drive gear. Remove the screw
from the bore in the end of the top shaft.
10. Hold the distributor housing upside down and care-
fully tap the outer edges on a soft wooden block. Tap the
housing until the breaker assembly comes loose from
the housing. Remove the breaker assembly and top shaft
from the housing.
11. If the sensing coil must be replaced, remove the roll
pin that locks the signal rotor to the top of the shaft. Re-
move the signal rotor and sensing coil assembly.
12. If the weights must be replaced, remove the two
springs and the snap rings from the two pin mounts. Pull
the weights from the shaft bracket.
13. To remove the bottom shaft assembly, the drive gear
must be removed. Put the distributor housing on a block
that is a support for the bottom shaft near the drive gear.
Use a punch and hammer to carefully remove the roll
pin. Do not damage the drive gear. Remove the drive
gear and oil seal. Remove the two screws that fasten the
shaft bracket inside the base of the distributor housing.
Remove the bottom shaft.
7

CAUTION
Do NOT move the engine crankshaft before the dis-
tributor is installed. The distributor will not be
installed correctly and the engine will not operate
correctly. If the crankshaft is moved, see the section
for the ENGINE to correctly install the distributor.
Assembly and Installation (See FIGURE 8.)
CAUTION
Make sure both distributor shafts are clean and
smooth. Make sure the bores for the shafts are clean.
1. Put engine oil on the top and bottom shafts. Install the
bottom shaft in the distributor housing and fasten with
the two screws inside the base of the distributor housing.
Install the oil seal and drive gear. Align the hole in the
gear with the hole in the shaft and install the roll pin.
2. Assemble and install the timing advance mechanism
as shown in FIGURE 8. Make sure the weights can
move easily on the pins. If necessary, use fine abrasive
cloth to polish the pins and the holes in the weights. The
fine abrasive cloth must be number 500 to 600. Remove
all dust and put a very thin layer of grease on each pin.
3. Install the breaker assembly on the top shaft. Install
the sensing coil, with the coil windings toward the
breaker assembly, on the heat sink. Put a thin coating of
special heat sink grease on the electronic module. Install
the electronic module on the heat sink.
4. Put the heat sink assembly on the top shaft. Install the
signal rotor correctly on the shaft and fasten it with the
roll pin. See FIGURE 8.
5. Install the top shaft assembly onto the bottom shaft
and into the distributor housing. Make sure the bearing
8
on the breaker assembly is completely installed in the
bore of the housing. Install the two screws and fasten the
breaker assembly to the inside of the distributor hous-
ing. Install the screws that fasten the heat sink assembly
to the distributor housing.
6. Install the vacuum advance mechanism on the distrib-
utor housing with the hole in the arm over the pin on the
breaker assembly. Install the snap ring on the pin to fas-
ten the arm. Install the two screws that fasten the vacu-
um advance mechanism to the distributor housing.
7. Connect the electrical leads to the electronic module.
Make sure the leads and the grommet are in the correct
position in the slot on the side of the distributor. Install
the cover, seal ring, and rotor. If necessary, install the
spark plug wires in the correct positions in the replace-
ment distributor cap. Install the distributor cap.
CAUTION
If the engine crankshaft has been moved since the
distributor was removed, see the section for the EN-
GINE to correctly install the distributor. Do not do
Step 8.
8. Align the marks on the engine and distributor hous-
ing. Align the rotor with the mark on the distributor
housing and move the rotor to the position as described
in the NOTE of the removal procedure. The distributor
rotor MUST be correctly aligned with the engine crank-
shaft. If the installation is correct, the rotor/distributor
housing mark and the distributor housing/engine marks
will all be correctly aligned. Tighten the capscrews that
fasten the housing to the engine.
9. Connect the coil wire to the distributor. If necessary
connect the spark plug wires to the correct spark plugs.
Connect the vacuum line to the vacuum advance mecha-
nism.
 1
5
7

12

11 2
8

13 6
15
9 3
14

16
10
17 4

12653

6. SENSING COIL (PICK–UP)

7. ELECTRICAL LEADS
18 8. ELECTRONIC MODULE
9. HEAT SINK
10. BREAKER ASSEMBLY
19 11. TIMING ADVANCE MECHANISM
12. TOP SHAFT
13. SPRINGS (2)
14. WEIGHTS (2)
20 15. SNAP RING
1. CAP 16. BOTTOM SHAFT ASSEMBLY
2. ROTOR ASSEMBLY 17. DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING
3. SEAL RING 18. VACUUM ADVANCE MECHANISM
4. COVER 19. OIL SEAL
5. SIGNAL ROTOR 20. DRIVE GEAR AND ROLL PIN
FIGURE 8. PARTS OF THE DISTRIBUTOR, S/H2.00–3.20XM (S/H40–65XM)

ALTERNATOR 1. Disconnect the battery cable at the negative terminal

Removal And Disassembly (See FIGURE 9.)
NOTE: Do only the steps that are necessary to replace
the part that has damage.
of the battery. Install a tag on the battery terminal so that
no one connects the cable on the terminal.
2. Put a label on the wire connected to the B terminal. Put
a label on the wire connected to the ground terminal. Re-
move the wires from the terminals and disconnect the
connector plug from the alternator.

9
3. Remove the capsrews, washers, and nut that fasten the
alternator to the engine. Remove the alternator.
4. Remove the three bolts that fasten the end housing to-
gether.
5. Put the rotor in a vise that has soft jaws. Do not tighten
the vise to cause rotor distortion. Use a socket wrench to
remove the pulley nut. Remove the pulley, fan, collar,
and front housing from the rotor.
6. Remove the three screws that fasten the bearing re-
tainer to the front housing. Remove the bearing retainer
and ball bearing.
7. Remove the nuts that fasten the stator and diode as-
sembly to the rear housing. Remove the stator and diode
assembly from the rear housing.
8. Mark the stator to show the position of the brushes and
connector. Use pliers as a heat sink to keep heat from the
diodes. Use a soldering iron to remove the stator leads
from the diode assembly.
Assembly and Installation (See FIGURE 9.)
1. Hold the diode assembly in a position to connect the
stator leads. Align the brushes and connector at the mark
on the stator. Use pliers to keep heat from the diodes.
Use a soldering iron to connect the stator leads to the di-
ode assembly.

1. NUT AND LOCKWASHER 6

2. PULLEY
3. COLLAR 8
4. BOLT
5. FRONT HOUSING
6. BALL BEARING 6 7
7. BEARING RETAINER
5
8. ROTOR
9. STATOR
10. VOLTAGE REGULATOR
AND BRUSH ASSEMBLY 4
11. BRUSH (2)
12. SPRING (2)
13. DIODE ASSEMBLY
14. REAR HOUSING
1

3
2 1

14
10

13

12
11
9

12643

FIGURE 9. PARTS OF THE ALTERNATOR

10
2. Install the ball bearing and bearing retainer on the
front housing. Use the three screws.
3. Put the rotor, with threaded end of the shaft up, in a
vise that has soft jaws. Do not tighten the vise to cause
rotor distortion. Install the collar, fan, pulley, lock wash-
er, and nut on the shaft. Tighten the nut using a socket
wrench.
4. Install the stator and diode assembly on the rotor and
rear housing. Hold the brushes away from the slip rings
during installation. Use a pin or wire in the hole of the
brush holder.
5. If the ball bearing next to the slip rings was removed,
install it on the armature shaft.
CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS
GENERAL
There are no adjustments for the starter or alternator.
The distributor timing and spark plug clearance must be
adjusted.
Remove the battery cables and clean the terminals and
cable connectors. Inspect the insulation on the wires.
Make sure all the fasteners and connections are clean
and tight. If necessary, use a water and soda solution to
clean the top of the battery. Do NOT remove the cell
caps or permit the water and soda solution to get in the
battery.
WARNING
To prevent movement of the lift truck, put the trans-
mission in NEUTRAL and apply the parking brake.
CAUTION
Do not change the polarity of the circuits. Do not con-
nect any wires in the circuits, except as described in
these instructions. Never connect the wire from the
terminal marked “BAT” to an open circuit.
When connecting a charger or another battery, connect
the positive terminals to the positive terminal of the bat-
tery. Then connect the negative terminal to a clean metal
part of the engine. Disconnect the charger or other bat-
tery in the reverse order. Problems in the charging cir-
cuit are indicated by one or more of the following:
6. Install the rear housing over the diode assembly.
Make sure all the insulators for the screws are correctly
installed. The positive half of the diode assembly must
not touch the rear housing. The screws must not touch
the rear housing and the positive half of the diode assem-
bly. Install the nuts and bolts that fasten the rear hous-
ings.
7. Install the alternator on the engine using the
capscrews, washers, and nut. Make sure to install the
belt on the pulley. Adjust the belt tension as described in
the section for PERIODIC MAINTENANCE.
8. Connect the plug to the alternator connector. Connect
the other wires to the B and ground terminals as shown
on the labels. Connect the negative cable on the battery
terminal.
a. The starter motor turns slowly. The battery volt-
age is low because of low alternator output or a
bad battery.
b. The specific gravity readings are low. Battery is
not fully charged or is damaged.
c. The battery uses more than 30 ml (one ounce) of
water per cell per month. The alternator output is
too high.
STARTER
Check Operation (See FIGURE 10.)
The starter is in good condition if the results of this
check are within the specifications. If the results are
within specifications, additional checks or starter repair
is not necessary.
CAUTION
Make sure the cables to the starter and ammeter are
gauge 4 (25 mm2) minimum.
1. Put the starter in a vise so that it cannot move.
2. Use a 12V battery that has a full charge. Use an amme-
ter that has a minimum capacity of 60 amperes. Connect
the circuit shown in FIGURE 10. Attach the jumper
wire (7) to the S terminal, but do not connect the nega-
tive lead (2) of the battery to the starter yet.
3. Touch the negative lead to the starter housing for only
a short time and check the indications on the meters.
11
Now, remove the negative lead from the starter housing.
Remove the small jumper wire from the S terminal. NOTE: BRUSH ASSEMBLY CAN BE
DIFFERENT THAN SHOWN.

1 2
2
1
S

7 M

9553

2
3

1. NEGATIVE BRACKETS
2. POSITIVE BRACKETS
6
3. MOUNT PLATE
9568
5
4 3 FIGURE 11. CHECK THE BRUSH HOLDER
1. STARTER SOLENOID Check Armature
2. NEGATIVE LEAD (DO NOT CONNECT)
3. 12V BATTERY Remove the armature. Use an ohmmeter to check for an
4. AMMETER infinity indication between any commutator bar and the
5. STARTER armature shaft. Check for continuity (zero ohms) be-
6. POSITIVE LEAD
tween any two commutator bars. If either check is
7. JUMPER WIRE
wrong, replace the armature.
FIGURE 10. CHECK THE STARTER
Check Field Windings
Remove the motor, brush holder, and armature. Use an
4. The starter is in good condition if all of the following
ohmmeter to check for continuity between the positive
items are correct:
brush and electrical lead of the motor. Check for a indi-
a. Clutch assembly moves so that it can engage the cation of infinity between a positive brush and the motor
flywheel. housing. If the indication is not infinity, check that the
b. Smooth rotation occurs just after clutch move- brush lead connections are not touching the housing. If
ment. either check shows a wrong condition, replace the com-
plete motor housing.
c. Ammeter must indicate 53 ampere or less.
Check Clutch And Bearing
d. Clutch assembly moves so that it can disengage
the flywheel after jumper wire is removed from S Check the teeth of the gear. If the teeth are worn or dam-
terminal. aged, replace the clutch assembly. Check the teeth of the
ring gear on the flywheel. If the teeth are worn or dam-
aged, replace the ring gear. See the section for the EN-
Check Brush Holder (See FIGURE 11.) GINE. Check that the clutch bearing rotates freely and
smoothly. The bearing must not be loose.
Remove the brush holder from the motor housing. Re-
move the brushes from the brush holder. Connect an IGNITION SYSTEM
ohmmeter between each bracket that holds each brush
and the mount plate for the brackets. The indications for Adjust Engine Timing (See FIGURE 12.)
the two positive brackets must be infinity. The indica- Check that the distributor is adjusted for the correct tim-
tions for the two other brackets must be zero ohms. ing. Connect a timing light to the number one spark plug

12
wire. Disconnect and put a plug in the vacuum hose that
is connected to the vacuum advance unit. Operate the
engine at idle speed (725 rpm). Carefully hold the tim-
ing light in a position to illuminate the indicator. The
correct degree mark on the pulley must be aligned with
the indicator on the engine. If the mark is not aligned,
loosen the clamp at the base of the distributor housing.
Adjust the position of the distributor to align the correct
timing mark and the indicator. Tighten the clamp and
check that the timing is still correct. Carefully remove
the timing light, stop the engine, and disconnect the tim-
ing light
S/H2.00–3.20XM (S/H40–65XM) SHOWN
1 Always check the general condition of the complete sys-
2 3 4 (2) battery cables and connections and (3) alternator
1. INDICATOR 5 wires and connectors. Also check the condition and ten-
2. 0° BTDC, WHITE
3. 9° BTDC, RED
4. YELLOW TIMING
MARK (NOT USED)
5. DISTRIBUTOR
FIGURE 12. IGNITION TIMING
The correct timing for the H1.50–1.75XM, H2.00XMS
(S/H25–35XM, S/H40XMS) units is as follows:
Gasoline Engine = 0° BTDC @ 725 ± 25 rpm
LPG Engine = 8° BTDC @ 725 ± 25 rpm
The correct timing for the S/H2.00–3.20XM
(SH40–65XM) units is as follows:
Gasoline Engine = 0° BTDC @ 725 ± 25 rpm
LPG Engine = 9° BTDC @ 725 ± 25 rpm
WARNING
Make sure the timing light, and your hands and arms
stay clear of the fan blade area. The rotating blades
of the fan can cause damage or injury.
Spark Plugs
Check the spark plugs for the following conditions:
• Burned Insulator
• Cracked or Broken Insulator
• Burned Electrodes (anode or cathode)
• Carbon Deposits
• Damaged Gasket
Replace spark plugs that have any of the damage shown
above. Make sure to adjust the electrode clearance to 0.7
to 0.8 mm (0.028 to 0.032 in).
CHARGING CIRCUIT
tem before doing a complete check on each part. Check
the general condition of the following parts: (1) battery,
sion of the drive belt for the alternator.
CAUTION
NEVER operate the engine if the alternator output B
terminal is not connected to the battery.
Do not short–circuit or connect jumper wires to any
of the alternator terminals unless told to by the pro-
cedures.
Make sure polarity is correct before connecting a
battery charger or another battery.
The two problems of the charging circuit are low output
and high output. Low output causes a low battery and
difficult starting. A high output causes heating of the
battery and evaporation of water from the electrolyte.
The following two checks will find out if the alternator,
regulator, or wiring has the charging fault. The two
checks will also find out if the charging system has a cor-
rect output. Do the following two checks before re-
moval, disassembly, or replacement of alternator or
regulator.
13
Check For Low Output (See FIGURE 13.)
WARNING
Do not connect the wire from the “BAT” terminal to
the electrical ground. A short–circuit will occur and
make sparks, which can cause injury.
NOTE: Make sure the wire from the voltmeter makes
contact with each terminal on the alternator.
1. Connect a voltmeter between the battery terminal B
and the electrical ground. Turn the key switch to the ON
position and check the indication.
2. Connect a voltmeter to the Field terminal L and the
Regulator terminal R. Follow the procedure in Step 1
and check the indication.
NOTE: ALTERNATOR CAN BE
DIFFERENT THAN SHOWN.
1
2 3
8
6 10. If the amount shown is within 10%, the alternator is
7
3. If there are no indications on the voltmeter during
Steps 1 and 2, check for an open circuit between each
terminal and the battery.
4. If there are indications on the voltmeter during Steps 1
and 2, disconnect the cable for the electrical ground on
the battery.
5. Connect an ammeter into the circuit at the battery ter-
minal B. See FIGURE 13.
6. Connect the cable for the electrical ground on the bat-
tery.
7. Connect a resistor (carbon pile) across the terminals
of the battery.
WARNING
During engine operation, be careful not to touch pul-
leys, fans, or belts in the engine area. Contact with
these parts can cause personal injury.
8. Start and run the engine at 2000 to 2500 rpm. Adjust
the resistor until the maximum charging rate is reached.
9. Read the maximum charging rate on the alternator
frame. Read the ammeter. The indication on the amme-
ter must be within 10% of the amount shown on the
frame.
in good condition. Check the starter or wires for the
problems.

Check For High Output (See FIGURE 13.)

4
1. Connect a voltmeter from the regulator terminal to the
electrical ground. Check the indication on the voltmeter.
5
2. If there are no indications, check for an open circuit
9
5139 between the regulator terminal and the battery.
1. RESISTOR (CARBON PILE)
2. BATTERY 3. If there is an indication, connect a voltmeter between
3. VOLTMETER the “BAT” terminal and the electrical ground.
4. STARTER
5. ALTERNATOR
6. BATTERY TERMINAL (B)
4. Increase the engine speed until the maximum voltage
7. FIELD TERMINAL (L) indication is reached.
8. REGULATOR TERMINAL (R)
9. AMMETER 5. If the voltage shown is more than 15.5 volts, disas-
semble the alternator and do the remainder of the
FIGURE 13. CHECK ALTERNATOR OUTPUT checks.

14
 1
1. POINT “A” 2. POINT “B” 3. POINT “C”
FIGURE 14. CHECK THE DIODES
Check The Diodes (See FIGURE 14.)
NOTE: Disassemble the alternator for this check and
the remainder of the alternator checks. The stator must
be disconnected from the diode assembly to do the fol-
lowing checks.
1. Use an ohmmeter with a 1.5 volt cell. Use the lowest
range scale to check the positive and negative diodes of
the rectifier bridge and the diode set.
NOTE: Some ohmmeters use a reverse polarity. The
“correct indications” will be opposite for these ohmme-
ters for Steps 3 and 4.
2. Find the electrical connection points on the diode as-
sembly for the three terminals “BAT”, “L”, and “E”.
3. Connect the positive ohmmeter lead to point “A”.
Connect the negative ohmmeter lead to the alternator
“BAT”, “L”, and “E” terminal connection points in se-
quence. Do this check again with the positive ohmmeter
lead at point “B” and again with the positive lead at point
“C”. The correct indications are a very low resistance or
a short–circuit between the positive and negative ohm-
meter leads for each of the nine checks. See
FIGURE 14. If there is an open circuit (infinity reading)
at any check, that diode is bad and must be replaced.
2
3
4. TERMINALS FOR OTHER OHMMETER LEAD
4. Do Step 3 again with the negative ohmmeter lead at
the test points “A” through “C”and the positive lead at
the connection points for the ammeter terminals. The
correct indications are an open–circuit between the neg-
ative and positive ohmmeter leads for each of the nine
checks. See FIGURE 14. If there is a short–circuit at any
check, that diode is bad and must be replaced.
Check Field Winding For The Rotor
(See FIGURE 15.)
1. Connect an ohmmeter to each slip ring and check for
open circuits. If the indication is high (infinity), the
winding has an open circuit. To check the resistance of
the field, connect the ohmmeter to the two slip rings.
The correct indication is 4.0 to 4.5 ohms. If the indica-
tion is less than the specification, there is a short circuit
in the windings. If the indication is greater than specifi-
cation, there is additional resistance in the windings.
2. To check the electrical ground, connect the ohmmeter
between either slip ring and the electrical ground as
shown in FIGURE 15. Replace the rotor if the indica-
tion is less than infinity.
NOTE: Make sure the needle in the ohmmeter always
returns to zero correctly. The indications will change
when the temperature of the winding changes.
15
 9552
FIGURE 15. ROTOR COIL CHECKS
Check Windings In The Stator
(See FIGURE 16.)
1. Disconnect the soldered terminals (3) of the stator
lead wires with a solder iron. Separate the stator and rec-
tifier.
2. To check the stator windings for electrical ground,
connect an ohmmeter as shown in FIGURE 16. There
must be no continuity between any of the stator termi-
nals and the metal frame.
3. To check the stator for open circuits, connect the ohm-
meter or test lamp between each pair of wires to the sta-
tor, as shown in FIGURE 16. If the test lamp does not
illuminate or the meter indication is high, the windings
have an open circuit.
16
9555
FIGURE 16. STATOR CHECKS
Brushes And Bearings
1. Check each brush for a minimum brush length on the
shortest side of 7 mm (0.3 in).
2. Check the brush springs. Install a new spring when the
spring is broken or has rust or distortion. If brushes have
changed color from heat or they are weak, replace them.
3. Check brush holder for cracks or damage.
4. Check armature bearings for smooth operation. Bear-
ings must not be loose or have seal leaks.
Check The Voltage Regulator
Use a voltage regulator test device. Follow the direc-
tions that come with the test device. Do not use an ohm-
meter. If the voltage regulator has damage, replace the
voltage regulator.
 TROUBLESHOOTING
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE PROCEDURE OR ACTION

Starter does not run or has slow
speed.
The battery is not fully charged or Charge battery or install new battery.
is damaged.
The connections at the battery or Clean electrical terminals and con-
starter are loose or they have cor- nectors.
rosion.
Key switch is damaged. Install a new key switch.
Solenoid coil or switch contacts Install a new solenoid.
have damage.
Brush springs in starter are dam- Install new brush springs.
aged.
Brush leads are broken or have a Check and repair brush leads.
short circuit.
Commutator in starter is dirty or Clean and repair commutator.
worn.
Armature winding in starter has Install new armature winding.
damage.
Field windings in starter have dam- Install new field winding.
age.
Worn or damaged starter gears. Repair starter.
Bearings in starter are worn or Install new bearings.
damaged.

Starter operates, but engine crank-
shaft does not rotate.
Wiring connections are broken, Repair wiring.
loose, or have corrosion.
Starter clutch assembly has dam- Repair or install a new starter.
age.
Solenoid has damage and will not Install a new solenoid.
keep the clutch assembly engaged.
Starter clutch assembly will not Repair or install a new starter.
move freely.
Gear teeth on starter clutch assem- Repair or install a new starter.
bly are damaged.
Gear teeth on ring gear are dam- Install a new flywheel.
aged.

Starter continues to run.
Contacts of solenoid are welded
together.
Solenoid coil has a short–circuit.
Spring that disengages the starter
clutch is broken.
Key switch is damaged.
Install a new solenoid.
Install a new solenoid.
Repair or install a new starter.
Install a new key switch.

Engine will not start – no spark or
weak spark.
Distributor has damage.
Coil has damage.
Key switch has damage.
Electronic module or sensing coil
has damage.
Install a new distributor.
Install a new coil.
Install a new key switch.
Install a new module or sensing coil.

17

PROBLEM
Battery does not stay charged.
Battery is charged more than nec-
essary.
TROUBLESHOOTING
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Battery terminals have corrosion.
Battery has damage inside the
case.
Drive belt for alternator is loose.
Wiring connections are broken,
loose, or have corrosion.
Short–circuit between wiring con-
nector(s).
Alternator brushes are worn.
Alternator brushes have weak
springs.
Alternator has dirty slip rings.
Stator coil for alternator has a
short–circuit.
Voltage regulator has damage.
Wiring connections are broken,
loose or have corrosion.
Short–circuit between wiring con-
nector(s).
Field coil in alternator has damage.
PROCEDURE OR ACTION
Clean battery terminals.
Install a new battery.
Adjust drive belt.
Repair wiring connections.
Repair wiring connections.
Install new brushes.
Install new springs.
Clean the slip rings.
Install a new stator coil.
Install a new voltage regulator.
Clean or repair wiring connections.
Clean or repair wiring connections.
Install a new field coil.

18
 INTRODUCTION

GENERAL in the following paragraphs. The description of the com-

This section describes the operation of the Microproces-
sor Spark Timing System (MSTS). The MSTS ignition
system is used on engines that use an LPG fuel system.
REPAIRS and TROUBLESHOOTING procedures are
also in this section
DESCRIPTION
The general operation of the MSTS system is described
ponents and a circuit analysis is given in the paragraphs
under OPERATION.
What MSTS Does
The MSTS module receives signals from sensors
mounted on the engine and electronically processes the
information to adjust the ignition timing for the best fuel
use and engine performance.

6
5
3

12909

1. GOVERNOR 4. MSTS MODULE

2. ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE 5. TACHOMETER CONNECTOR
(ECT) SENSOR 6. IGNITION COIL
3. DISTRIBUTOR 7. MAP SENSOR

FIGURE 1. MSTS ARRANGEMENT IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT

1
The MSTS module receives signals from the following
sensors:
• Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. This
sensor is a pressure transducer that measures the
atmospheric pressure before the engine is started.
The MSTS module uses this pressure as a refer-
ence. This sensor then measures changes in pres-
sure in the intake manifold during engine opera-
tion.
• Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (ECT). This
sensor is a thermistor (resistor that is calibrated to
change its value as its temperature changes).
• The ignition module is a small electronic module
within the distributor. This module is a signal
converter that senses the operation of the distrib-
utor. A sensing coil in the distributor senses the
rotation of the timer core and the ignition module
senses the speed of rotation. A square wave gen-
erator in the ignition module converts the pulses
from the sensing coil to a square wave signal that
is sent to the MSTS module. If the signals from
the ignition module to the MSTS indicate that the
engine is rotating at less than 400 rpm, the MSTS
module determines that the engine is being ro-
tated by the starter. The ignition module controls
the ignition for an engine being started. The Elec-
tronic Spark Timing (EST) function from the
MSTS module is deenergized. If the signals from
the ignition module to the MSTS module indicate
that the engine is rotating at greater than 400 rpm,
the MSTS module determines that the engine is
running and the Electronic Spark Timing (EST)
controls the ignition.
How MSTS Begins Operation
When the ignition switch is turned to ON, the MSTS
module measures the atmospheric pressure (BARO sig-
nal) from the MAP sensor. The MSTS module also
checks the signal from the engine coolant temperature
sensor (ECT). When the starter is engaged, the ignition
module sends electronic pulses to the MSTS module.
The frequency of the pulses indicates to the MSTS mod-
ule that the engine is being started. The ignition module
also electronically energizes (ON) and deenergizes
(OFF) the primary circuit of the ignition coil to create a
spark at the spark plugs.
2
When the engine starts, the frequency of the pulses from
the ignition module increases and indicates to the MSTS
module that the engine is running. The MSTS module
then sends a by–pass signal to the ignition module that
removes control of the spark (ignition) timing from the
ignition module. The MSTS module takes control of the
ignition timing and follows its program to give ignition
timing for the best engine operation. When the engine is
operating, the MSTS module continuously checks the
signals from the MAP, ECT, and distributor speed to
make timing adjustments for the engine operating con-
ditions.
OPERATION
Distributor
A timer core (permanent magnet) on the shaft of the dis-
tributor has external teeth which align with an equal
number of teeth on the pole piece. See FIGURE 2.
When the teeth of the timer core rotate past the teeth of
the pole piece, there is a decrease in the air gap between
the timer core and the pole piece. The magnetic field in-
creases. When teeth are not aligned, the magnetic field
decreases between the timer core and the pole piece. As
the timer core rotates, the magnetic field increases and
decreases in a cycle.
When a coil is near a changing magnetic field, a voltage
is generated in the coil. This principle is called magnetic
induction. A sensing coil is installed over the permanent
magnet. As the magnetic field near the pole piece
changes, a small voltage is generated in the sensing coil.
The principle of magnetic induction also controls the
polarity of the voltage generated in the coil. An increas-
ing magnetic field will generate a voltage in the coil that
is the opposite polarity of a magnetic field that is de-
creasing. This signal pulse causes the integrated circuits
in the ignition module to generate a square wave signal.
The ignition module and a magnetic pulse generator
control the primary circuit to the ignition coil when the
engine is started. After the engine is started, the MSTS
module receives the square wave signal from the mag-
netic pulse generator and ignition module as one of the
signals to control the EST. The pole piece has the same
number of teeth as the engine has cylinders so that a
spark voltage is correctly sent to each spark plug as the
shaft in the distributor rotates.

1
2 when the the engine is being started. The MSTS module
3 there are some failures in the signals to the MSTS mod-
4 moved to an area for repair. The results of the failures in
6
1. ROTOR
2. TIMER
5 CORE/SHAFT
3. SENSING COIL
4. POLE PIECE
5. HOUSING
6. IGNITION
MODULE
FIGURE 2. DISTRIBUTOR
Ignition Module
The ignition module is a solid–state electronic device
that operates like a fast switch except that it does not
have any moving or mechanical parts. See FIGURE 3.
Small electrical pulses from the sensing coil of the pulse
generator go to the ignition module.
The MSTS module must always know the speed at
which the engine is operating. The engine speed signal
is generated by the ignition module. The signal conver-
ter in the ignition module changes the signal voltage
from the sensing coil to a square wave reference signal
to the MSTS module. This square wave reference signal
for engine speed is called “REF HI”. The MSTS module
must also have a reference to compare with “REF HI”.
An additional wire between the MSTS module and the
ignition module is called “REF LO”. The “REF HI” and
“REF LO” connections give the PROM in the MSTS
module the necessary information about engine speed.
The other two wires between the MSTS module and the
distributor control the Electronic Spark Timing and are
called “EST” and “BY–PASS”.
NOTE: The ignition module controls spark timing only
controls the spark timing during engine operation. The
ignition module will also control the spark timing if
ule. This “back–up” mode of operation will often permit
operation of the engine so that the lift truck can be
signals to the MSTS module is described in the para-
graphs under MSTS Module Corrections.
When the Engine Is Being Started
See FIGURE 3. When the engine is rotated by the start-
er, the electronic relay (2) is in the deenergized position.
The sensing coil is connected through the square wave
generator (3) to the base of the transistor (8).
When the sensing coil (4) applies a positive voltage (the
square wave voltage is increasing) to the transistor (8),
the transistor goes ON. When the voltage from the sens-
ing coil changes to negative (the square wave voltage is
decreasing), the transistor goes OFF. When the transis-
tor is ON, current flows through the primary winding of
the ignition coil. When the transistor goes OFF, the cur-
rent flow through the primary winding stops. The
changing magnetic field in the primary winding gener-
ates a high voltage in the secondary winding of the igni-
tion coil This high voltage generates a spark at the spark
plug.
When the Engine Is Running
See FIGURE 4. When the engine speed is approximate-
ly 400 rpm, the MSTS module determines that the en-
gine is running and applies 5 volts on the “BY–PASS”
wire to the ignition module. This voltage energizes the
electronic relay (2) and makes the following changes:
The “EST” wire is not grounded and is now connected to
the base of the transistor (8). The sensing coil is discon-
nected from the base of the transistor (8).
The ignition module and the ignition timing is now con-
trolled by the “EST” signal from the MSTS module.
This mode of operation is called the “EST mode”.
3
 8 2
P N
1

ÉÉÉÉ
3

ÉÉÉÉ
ÉÉÉÉ
4

MAP SENSOR
+ C G B R E ECT SENSOR

A B C D EST F GROUND
6 7
REF HI D

BY–PASS E NO VOLTAGE
1. IGNITION MODULE APPLIED
2. ELECTRONIC RELAY REF–LO K
3. SQUARE WAVE GENERATOR 6. BATTERY VOLTAGE
4. SENSING COIL 7. TO IGNITION COIL
5. MSTS MODULE 8. TRANSISTOR
FIGURE 3. IGNITION MODULE WHEN ENGINE IS BEING STARTED

8 2
P N
1 3

ÉÉÉÉ 4

ÉÉÉÉ
5

MAP SENSOR
+ C G B R E CTS SENSOR

A B C D EST F NOT GROUND

6 REF HI D
7
BY–PASS E 5V APPLIED
1. IGNITION MODULE
2. ELECTRONIC RELAY REF–LO K
3. SQUARE WAVE GENERATOR 6. BATTERY VOLTAGE
4. SENSING COIL 7. TO IGNITION COIL
5. MSTS MODULE 8. TRANSISTOR

FIGURE 4. IGNITION MODULE WHEN ENGINE IS RUNNING

4
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor is a
pressure transducer that measures changes in the pres-
sure in the intake manifold. See FIGURE 5. The pres-
sure changes are a result of engine load and speed
changes. The MAP sensor converts these pressure
changes to a signal voltage to the MSTS module.
The MSTS module sends a 5 volt reference signal to the
MAP sensor. When the pressure in the intake manifold
changes, the electrical resistance in the MAP sensor also
changes. The change in the voltage signal from the MAP
sensor enables the MSTS module to sense the pressure
in the intake manifold.
A closed throttle causes a low pressure (high engine vac-
uum) in the intake manifold. This low pressure causes a
low voltage signal from the MAP sensor to the MSTS
module. A fully opened throttle causes a higher pressure
(low engine vacuum) in the intake manifold. This higher
pressure causes a higher voltage signal from the MAP
sensor to the MSTS module. These pressure changes in-
dicates the load on the engine to the MSTS module. The
MSTS module then calculates the spark timing for the
best engine performance.
The MAP sensor also measures the barometric pressure
when the key switch is turned to ON and before the en-
gine is started. The MSTS module “remembers” the
barometric pressure (BARO signal) after the engine is
running. The MSTS module then automatically adjusts
the ignition timing for different altitudes and atmo-
spheric conditions.
1 earlier paragraphs. (See the description in “What MSTS
1. SENSOR
2. ELECTRICAL
CONNECTOR
2
FIGURE 5. MAP SENSOR
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
The engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor
(FIGURE 6.) is a resistor that changes its resistance val-
ue when the temperature changes (thermistor). This sen-
sor is installed in the engine coolant system. A low cool-
ant temperature makes the thermistor have a high resis-
tance [100 700 ohms at –40°C (–40°F)]. A higher cool-
ant temperature makes the thermistor have a lower resis-
tance [77 ohms at 130°C (266°F)].
The engine coolant temperature sensor uses a thermistor
to control the signal voltage to the MSTS module. The
MSTS module applies a 5–volt reference voltage to the
ECT. See FIGURE 7. The reference voltage will be high
when the engine coolant is cold. The reference voltage
will be lower when the engine coolant is at operating
temperature. The MSTS module will adjust the ignition
timing for more spark advance when the engine coolant
is cold and less spark advance when the engine coolant
is hot. An engine at operating temperature normally
needs less spark advance.
2
1
3
1. TEMPERATURE SENSOR
2. ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
3. LOCK TAB
FIGURE 6. ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE
(ECT) SENSOR
MSTS Module Corrections
The operation of the MSTS module was described in
Does”) These paragraphs describe the corrections made
by the MSTS module.
The MSTS module does a check of the system compo-
nents. A set of normal operating limits are part of the
PROM program. If a sensor sends a signal that is outside
of the limits of the PROM program, the MSTS module
will not use the information. The MSTS module will use
a standard value from its program and continue to oper-
ate the MSTS.
The following examples are the action of the MSTS
module if it finds a problem:
MAP Sensor Signal Voltage Is Too High Or
Too Low. The MSTS module will use a MAP val-
5
 ue from its PROM program and use this value to
calculate the ignition timing
ECT Signal Voltage Is Too High Or Too Low.
When a coolant sensor error occurs, the MSTS
module will use a value that is approximately the
normal operating temperature of the coolant.
Open Circuit From The MSTS Modules To
The Ignition Module. If the EST circuit is open,
it can not be at ground potential and the EST sig-
nal will rise and fall from the sensing coil. The en-
gine will not run. If the EST circuit becomes open
when the engine is running, it will stop.
Short–Circuit (Grounded Circuit) From The
MSTS Module To The Ignition Module. When
the engine is being rotated by the starter, the
MSTS module normally detects 0 volts in the
EST circuit because the circuit is at ground poten-
tial in the ignition module.
The MSTS module would not detect a problem
until the engine began to run. The MSTS module
could not operate in the EST mode and the engine
will not operate. If the EST circuit has a short–cir-
cuit (grounded circuit) when the engine is run-
ning, it will stop.

YEL
BLK
11
BLK/WHT
10
9 BLK/WHT 1

A PURP
B DK GRN
P
C GRAY
PURP N (Not Used)
M
8 E D WHT
L
R C
B B
1 G A BLK/RED K
BLK/RED
2
3 C J
4 +
H
7 YEL G
6 +
WHT F
+ PURP/
5 E
BRN WHT
B YEL PINK
D
4 A ORG C (Not Used)

1. MSTS MODULE B (Not Used)

B 2. GOVERNOR CONTROLLER
3 A (Not Used)
A 3. MSTS FUSE
4. GOVERNOR SOLENOID VALVE
12 VOLT + 5. IGNITION COIL
RED
A BRN 6. SPARK PLUGS
C 7. TACHOMETER CONNECTOR
2 G 8. DISTRIBUTOR AND IGNITION MODULE
H WHT
9. MAP SENSOR
BLK
10. INITIAL TIMING CONNECTOR
11. ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR

FIGURE 7. MSTS WIRING DIAGRAM

6
 Open Circuit Or Short–Circuit In The BY–
PASS Circuit. The MSTS module would not de-
tect a problem until the engine began to run. The
MSTS module could not operate in the EST mode
and the engine would operate with reduced pow-
er. If this problem occurs when the engine is run-
ning, the engine will only operate in the starting
mode with the ignition module.
Open Circuit Or Short–Circuit In The REF
HI Circuit. The MSTS module would not detect
that the engine was operating. The MSTS module
could not operate in the EST mode and the engine
would operate with reduced power. If this prob-
lem occurs when the engine is running, the en-
gine will only operate in the starting mode with
the ignition module.
Open Circuit Or Short–Circuit In The REF
LO Circuit. The MSTS module would not have a
comparison for operation. The MSTS module
could not operate in the EST mode and the engine
will not operate. If this problem occurs when the
engine is running, it will stop.
Initial Timing Connector
In addition to the sensor inputs, the MSTS module
checks the voltage in a wire from a special plug called
the “initial timing connector”.
FIGURE 8. INITIAL TIMING CONNECTOR
This initial timing connector is installed in the engine
electrical harness to the distributor. This initial timing
connector is opened to adjust the initial ignition timing.
When the initial timing connector is opened, the correct
timing adjustment is 8° BTDC. The ignition timing after
the initial timing connector is installed is controlled by
the MSTS module.
GOVERNOR SYSTEM (See FIGURE 1.)
The governor system controls the maximum engine
speed under variable load conditions. The governor at-
taches to the carburetor throttle assembly. The governor
controller is on the cowl in the operator compartment.
Vacuum lines connect the governor solenoid valve to the
carburetor and to the diaphragm of the governor. The
governor controller is electrically connected to the gov-
ernor solenoid valve, MSTS module and the ignition
coil.
The operation of the governor is controlled by the gov-
ernor controller. Manifold vacuum and air pressure pro-
vide the force to actuate the governor. The governor
controller controls this force. The governor diaphragm
operates the throttle plate of the carburetor. Linkage
from the diaphragm closes the throttle plate when the
vacuum is high. A spring in the governor opens the
throttle plate.
The governor controller is connected to the MSTS mod-
ule and controls the operation of the governor solenoid
valve. The governor solenoid valve controls the vacuum
at the diaphragm in the governor. During operation, the
governor controller receives the engine speed signals.
As the engine speed reaches the limit of the governor,
current flows to the governor solenoid valve. The sole-
noid valve closes, causing vacuum to operate the dia-
phragm. When actuated, the diaphragm works against
the governor spring to close the throttle plate and de-
crease engine speed. The governor solenoid valve opens
and closes as necessary to keep the engine speed within
the governor limits.
7
 This voltage chart is for use with a digital voltmeter when doing troubleshooting. There can be small variations
in the voltage shown in the chart from those voltages measured during troubleshooting. These small variations
are because of the battery charge and other resistances in the connections. A variation of more than 0.5 volts
can be an indication of a malfunction.

When this chart is used for troubleshooting, the engine must be at its operating temperature and the engine
must be at idle speed (for ENGINE RUNNING column).

A B C D E F G H J K L M N P

14–PIN CONNECTOR

MSTS MODULE CONNECTOR WIRE SENSOR CONNECTOR NORMAL VOLTAGE

COLOR
PIN FUNCTION PIN FUNCTION KEY ENGINE
ON RUNNING
A Not Used – – – –
B Not Used – – – –
C Not Used – – – –
D Reference Orange C Ignition Module 0 1.3
White H Governor Controller
E By–pass Purp/White B Ignition Module 0 4.75
F EST White D Ignition Module 0 1.3
G ECT Sensor Yellow B MSTS To ECT Sensor 1.6* 1.6*
H MAP Sensor Signal Dk Green B Manifold Absolute Pressure 4.75** 1.1**
J +5 Volt Reference – MAP Gray C Manifold Absolute Pressure 5.0 5.0
K System Ground Black/Red 0 0
L Ignition Pink Battery Voltage From Ignition B+ B+
Switch
M Ground Connector For Purple A MAP Sensor, ECT Sensor, Ini- 0 0
Sensors tial Timing Connector
N Not Used – – – –
P Initial Timing Connector BLK/WHT – 5.0 5.0
* Voltage changes with temperature.
** Voltage changes with atmospheric pressure.

FIGURE 9. MSTS MODULE CONNECTIONS

8
 TROUBLESHOOTING
GENERAL
The following troubleshooting charts are designed to
give an efficient method of fault analysis on the MSTS.
WARNING
This troubleshooting requires the operation of the
engine for some of the tests. Make sure the tests are
done carefully to prevent injury:
• Put the lift truck on a level surface. Lower the
carriage and forks and apply the parking
brake. Make sure the lift truck can not move
and cause an injury during the tests. Put
blocks in front and back of the drive tires to
prevent movement of the lift truck.
• The fuel system and the engine must operate
correctly. Any problems or leaks in the fuel
system or the engine must be repaired before
doing troubleshooting on the MSTS.
• The fan and the drive belts can remove fingers
or cause other injuries. Be careful that your
hands and tools do not touch the moving fan or
the drive belts.
• The engine exhaust and other parts of the en-
gine are hot. Do not touch a hot surface and
cause a burn.
CAUTION
Electronic equipment can be damaged if trouble–
shooting and repairs are not done correctly. The fol-
lowing CAUTIONS must be followed when doing
troubleshooting or repairs on an engine with MSTS:
• Always disconnect the battery negative cable
before disconnecting and removing any parts
of ignition system.
• Never disconnect the battery from any equip-
ment when the engine is running.
• If the battery must be charged with a battery
charger, ALWAYS disconnect the battery
from the electrical system.
• Make sure that all electrical connections are
clean and have good electrical contact.
• Never connect or disconnect the wiring har-
ness at the MSTS module when the key switch
is “ON”.
• Always disconnect the battery and the MSTS
module connectors if electric arc welding must
be done on the vehicle.
• Make sure that any water or steam is not sent
toward the MSTS module or its sensors if the
engine compartment is cleaned with steam.
The heat and steam can damage the electronic
components and cause corrosion in the electri-
cal connections.
• Use only the tools and test equipment de-
scribed in “TOOLS AND TEST EQUIP-
MENT” to prevent damage to good compo-
nents and to obtain correct test results.
• All voltage measurements must be done with a
digital voltmeter with a rating of 10 megohm
input impedance.
• When a test light is used in troubleshooting,
the test light must have less than 0.3 amps (300
milliamps) of maximum current flow. A test
for a correct test light is shown in FIGURE 10.
TOOLS AND TEST EQUIPMENT
The following tools are necessary for troubleshooting
the MSTS:
• Ohmmeter
• Digital voltmeter. The voltmeter must have a
minimum input impedance of 10–megohms. (A
digital voltmeter and ohmmeter are normally in-
cluded in a multi–meter test instrument.
• Tachometer with inductive trigger signal sensor.
• Test light that has a low current draw as described
in FIGURE 10.
• Vacuum pump with a gauge. This vacuum pump
is held and operated with the hand. The gauge
must be able to indicate a gauge pressure (vacu-
um) of 34 kPa [20 inches of mercury (20” Hg)].
(See the PRESSURE CONVERSION CHART at
the end of this section.)
9
 • Spark tester. The spark tester is used to check the
secondary ignition. The spark tester is also called
an ST125 and creates a 25 kilovolt load on sec-
Test Description (See FIGURE 11.)
ondary ignition components.
The numbers in circles on the troubleshooting chart
have the following indications:
DC Amps
TEST
LIGHT
– +
BATTERY
If the ammeter indicates less than 0.3 amps
(300 milliamps), the test light can be used.
If the ammeter indicates more than 0.3
amps (300 milliamps), the test light can not
be used because it can cause damage to
the electronic components.
FIGURE 10. CURRENT FLOW TEST FOR A
TEST LIGHT
10
MSTS
1 This step checks if there is a problem in the basic
distributor or ignition coil assembly.
2 This step checks if the Electronic Spark Timing
(EST) is working. If the initial timing connector
is disconnected when the engine is running, the
EST reference signal is removed from the igni-
tion module. The engine runs only with a timing
of 8° BTDC.
3 This step checks the operation of the MAP sen-
sor.
4 The parts of the MSTS operate correctly when the
engine is at normal operating temperature, but
not when the engine is cold. There is a
troubleshooting chart for the engine coolant tem-
perature sensor (ECT).
5 In addition to checking the wires for an open cir-
cuit, make sure to check the fastening screw for
the ignition module. The MSTS is grounded
through this screw.
 NOTE: Make sure the fuel system is operating correctly before using this chart.
1 Does the engine start?

YES NO

2 a. Run the engine at normal operating See FIGURE 13. “IGNITION SYSTEM
temperature for two minutes. TROUBLESHOOTING CHART”
b. Run the engine at a constant speed of 1500
rpm.
c. Remove the initial timing connector from its
socket.
d. Did the rpm decrease when the initial timing
connector was removed?

YES NO

3 a. Install the initial timing connector into its a. Turn the key switch to OFF.
socket.
b. Disconnect the 14–pin connector from the
b. Run the engine at a constant speed of 1500 MSTS module.
rpm.
c. Connect a test light to ground.
c. Disconnect the electrical connection for the
d. Turn the key switch to ON.
MAP sensor.
e. Touch the probe of the test light to terminal L
d. Did the engine speed change when the MAP
of the 14–pin connector.
sensor was disconnected?
f. Is the test light illuminated?

YES NO
YES NO

4 a. Connect the MAP See “MANIFOLD

sensor again. ABSOLUTE a. Connect a test light to Repair an open
PRESSURE B+. circuit or a
b. Turn the key switch
(MAP) TROUBLE– b. Touch the probe of the short–circuit in
to OFF.
SHOOTING”. test light to terminal K of the ignition
c. MSTS is operating circuit.
the 14–pin connector.
correctly.
c. Is the test light
d. If problem still
illuminated?
exists, check for other
troubleshooting
faults.
YES NO

5 Repair the See FIGURE 15.

open circuit in “ELECTRONIC SPARK
the REF LO. TIMING (EST) TROUBLE–
SHOOTING CHART”.

FIGURE 11. MSTS TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

11
 TACH SENSING A B C D DISTRIBUTOR
IGNITION COIL CONN. COIL
IGN 4–TERMINAL
CONNECTOR CONNECTOR
+ C
MSTS
MODULE
TO
P N
DISTRIBUTOR
IGNITION
MODULE
+ C G B R E
TO
IGN

A B C D
F EST
D REFERENCE
E BY–PASS
K
IGNITION TACH
COIL CONN.

FIGURE 12. IGNITION SYSTEM CIRCUIT

IGNITION SYSTEM cuit from C to the ignition coil or an open circuit

Test Description (See FIGURE 12.)
5 Check for a short–circuit in the ignition module
If a tachometer has been connected to the TACH
CONN., disconnect it before doing this test. The num-
bers in circles on the troubleshooting chart
(FIGURE 13.) have the following indications:
1 Check a minimum of two spark plug wires to
make sure that one of the spark plug wire does not
have an open circuit.
2 If a spark occurs when the EST connector is dis-
connected, the output from the sensing coil is too
low for EST operation.
6 The ignition module normally goes ON when 1.5
3 A spark indicates that the fault is in the distributor
cap or the rotor.
4 The normal voltage at the C and the + terminals is
battery voltage. A low voltage can indicate:
a. An open circuit or a high resistance circuit from
the distributor to the ignition coil or
b. An open circuit in the primary winding of the
ignition coil.
If the voltage at C is less than battery voltage, and
there is 10 volts or more at +, there is an open cir-
in the primary winding of the ignition coil.
or in the circuit from the ignition coil to the igni-
tion module. Check for approximately 12 volts
between the TACH CONN. and ground.
If the voltage is low (approximately 1 to 6 volts),
there can be a fault in the ignition coil. This con-
dition can cause a failure in the ignition coil from
too much heat. If there is an open circuit in the
primary winding of the ignition coil, a low volt-
age can “leak” through the ignition module from
the B+ to the TACH CONN. terminal.
to 8 volts is applied to terminal P. When the igni-
tion module is ON, the voltage between the
TACH CONN. and ground will normally de-
crease to 7 to 9 volts. This test checks if the sens-
ing coil or the ignition module has a fault. When
1.5 to 8 volts is momentarily applied to terminal
P, this voltage acts as a trigger voltage that re-
places the voltage from the sensing coil. The pro-
cedure in FIGURE 13. shows a test light, but any
low voltage, low current source can be used as a
trigger voltage.

12
 7 When the momentary trigger voltage is removed, coil. If a spark occurs, check the sensing coil and
a spark is normally generated through the igni- the rotating timer core.
tion coil. If no spark occurs, replace the ignition

TEST LIGHT
1 a. If a tachometer has been connected to the
TO DC
TACH CONN., disconnect it. PWER SUPPLY
(1.5 TO 8 V)
b. Turn the key switch to ON and use the
starter to rotate the engine. Check for a spark P N
IGNITION
at the spark plug. Use a spark tester (ST–125) MODULE
if it is available. If there is no spark on one wire, + C G B R E
check another wire. A few sparks and then
nothing is the same as no spark.

NO SPARK SPARK

Check for fuel supply to engine. Check spark

2 Disconnect the 4–terminal distributor connector plugs. Check for other faults not in the ignition
and check for a spark. system.

NO SPARK SPARK

3 Replace sensing coil.

Check for spark at coil wire while rotating the
engine with the starter. (If the spark tester is
being used, leave the spark tester connected to
the coil wire for steps 4 through 7 .)

NO SPARK SPARK

4 a. The engine is stopped. Turn the key switch Inspect the distributor cap for water, cracks, or
to ON. other damage. If the distributor cap is correct,
replace the distributor rotor.
b. Disconnect the 2–terminal C and +
connector at the distributor.
c. Check the voltage at the C and + terminals
of the wires from the ignition coil.

Go to 5 on next page.

FIGURE 13. IGNITION SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING CHART (1 of 2)

13
 From 4

Both terminals greater Both terminals less Only terminal C is less

than 10 volts than 10 volts than 10 volts

5 a. Connect the 2–terminal C
and + connector at the
distributor.
b. Turn the key switch to ON.
Check the voltage between the
TACH CONN. and ground.
Repair the wire from the ignition
module + terminal to the +
terminal on the ignition coil.
Check for open circuit or short–
circuit from terminal C to
connector on ignition coil. If
circuit is correct, the fault is the
ignition coil or the connector.

Greater than 10 volts Less than 1 volt 1 to 10 volts

a. Connect a test light between Repair the wire or the Replace the ignition module and
the TACH CONN. and ground. connector for the TACH check for spark from ignition coil
b. Rotate the engine with the CONN. and repeat step 5
. described to step 7 .
starter. Check the test light.
SPARK NO SPARK
Test light is steady
System is Replace bad
correct. ignition coil.
6 a. Disconnect the distributor 4–terminal connector.
b. Remove the distributor cap. Disconnect the sensing Test light blinks
coil from the ignition module.
c. Connect a voltmeter from the TACH CONN. to ground. Replace the ignition coil and check for
Turn key switch to ON. spark with the spark tester. If there is no
d. Insulate the probe on the test light to 6 mm (0.025 in) spark, install the original ignition coil and
from tip. Check the voltmeter when the test light and the replace the ignition module.
1.5 to 8 volt source is momentarily touched to terminal P.

Voltage decreases No voltage decrease

7 Check for spark from the coil wire with the spark tester Check the ground connection on the
when the test light is removed from terminal P. ignitions module. If connection is correct,
replace ignition module.
NO SPARK
SPARK
Replace ignition coil
and repeat step 6 . Is the rotating timer core still
magnetized?
NO SPARK SPARK
YES NO
Install the original ignition coil and check System is
Check sensing coil and Replace
the wire from the distributor cap. If correct, correct.
connections. Normal rotating
replace the ignition module.
resistance of coil is 500 timer core
to 1500 ohms. and shaft.

FIGURE 13. IGNITION SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING CHART (1 of 2)

14
 TACH SENSING A B C D DISTRIBUTOR
IGNITION COIL
CONNECTOR IGN
CONN. COIL 4–TERMINAL
CONNECTOR
+ C
MSTS
MODULE
TO
DISTRIBUTOR P N
IGNITION
MODULE
+ C G B R E
TO
IGN

A B C D
F EST
D REFERENCE
E BY–PASS
K
IGNITION TACH
COIL CONN.

FIGURE 14. ELECTRONIC SPARK TIMING (EST) TROUBLESHOOTING

ELECTRONIC SPARK TIMING (EST)
TROUBLESHOOTING
NOTE: If a malfunction indicates a possible fault in the
EST, check how close the wires of the EST are to spark
plug wires and high–current electrical device. The in-
duction from a high–voltage or high–current source can
cause an error in the EST circuit if it is too close to the
EST wires.
Circuit Description
When the system is in the starting mode, there is no volt-
age signal on the BY–PASS, and the ignition module
sends the EST signal to ground. The MSTS module will
not normally have a voltage on the EST terminal F when
the system is in the starting mode. If there is a voltage
signal on terminal F, the system will not change to EST
mode of operation.
When the engine speed is greater than approximately
400 rpm, the BY–PASS signal is applied and EST signal
will not be at ground (0 volts) in the ignition module.
During this mode of operation, there is normally a varia-
tion in the EST voltage.
If the BY–PASS circuit has an open circuit or is at
ground (0 volts), the ignition module will not change to
EST mode and the EST voltage signal will be low.
If the EST circuit is at ground (0 volts), the ignition
module will change to EST mode, but there will not be
an EST signal.
Test Description (See FIGURE 15.)
The numbers in circles on the troubleshooting chart
have the following indications:
1 If the initial timing connector is disconnected
when the engine is running, the EST control is re-
moved and the engine runs only in the starting
mode with the ignition module. If there is a varia-
tion in the timing when the engine rpm is in-
creased, a fault is indicated. There is either a open
circuit or a short–circuit to ground in the EST or
BY–PASS circuits.
2 This step checks if the MSTS module is receiving
REFERENCE pulses from the ignition module.
There can be a small variation in the voltage lev-
els because the engine is operating at idle rpm.
The important part of this step is to check that
there is a voltage signal.
3 This step checks for a normal EST circuit to
ground (0 volts) through the ignition module. If
the EST circuit has a short circuit, the resistance
will also indicate less that 500 ohms. This possi-

15
 ble fault will be checked later in the troubleshoot-
ing.
4 When the test light voltage is momentarily
touched to the by–pass circuit the ohmmeter can
indicate out of its range. The important indication
in this test is that the ignition module made the
switch.
5 If the ignition module did not switch, this step
checks for the following faults:
a. EST circuit short–circuit to ground
b. BY–PASS circuit is open
c. Fault in the ignition module or a connection
6 This step checks for a fault in the MSTS module
and not a fault that is not regular in the EST circuit
and the by–pass circuit.

1 a. Turn the key switch to OFF.

b. Remove the initial timing connector from its
socket.
c. Install a timing light.
d. Start the engine.
e. Does the timing change when the engine speed
is increased from idle to approximately 1000 rpm?

YES NO

2 a. Turn the key switch to OFF. EST is correct. Check for other faults in the
ignition system.
b. Disconnect the 14–pin MSTS module connector.
c. Start the engine and run it at idle speed.
d. Check the voltage with a digital voltmeter from
terminal D of the 14–pin connector to ground. Is the
voltage 7 volts or greater?

YES NO

3 a. Stop the engine. Turn the key switch to ON.
b. Use the 1000 to 2000 range of the ohmmeter.
Check the resistance between terminal F of the
14–pin connector and ground. Is the resistance
less than 1500 ohms?
Check circuit to D terminal on MSTS module for
the following faults:
a. bad connection.
b. open circuit or short–circuit to ground.
If a fault is not found in this step, replace the
ignition module.

YES NO

Connect a test light to B+ and touch the probe
to terminal E of the 14–pin connector.
Go to 4 on next page.
Open circuit to terminal F on MSTS module or
a bad connection.
If a fault is not found in this step, replace the
ignition module.

FIGURE 15. ELECTRONIC SPARK TIMING (EST) TROUBLESHOOTING CHART (1 of 2)

16
 From 3

TEST LIGHT IS OFF TEST LIGHT IS ON

4 a. Connect the ohmmeter between terminal F of the Disconnect the 4–terminal connector at the
14–pin connector and ground. Connect a test light to distributor. Check terminal E of the 14–pin
B+ and touch the probe to terminal E of the 14–pin connector with the test light again.
connector.
b. When the test light is touched to terminal E, check TEST LIGHT IS ON TEST LIGHT IS OFF
that the resistance on the ohmmeter changes from
less than 1500 ohms to greater than 2000 ohms. Wire to terminal E The ignition module
has a short–circuit. has a fault.

NO YES

5 a. The ohmmeter is still connected between
terminal F of the 14–pin connector and ground.
b. Disconnect the 4–terminal connector at the
distributor. Does the resistance increase
greatly to indicate an open circuit?
6 Connect the ECM again. Start the engine and
run the engine at idle speed for one minute or
until the fault occurs again.
NO YES

The fault does not occur The MSTS

YES NO regularly. Check for other module has a
causes. fault.
Wire to terminal E or a Wire to terminal F
connection is open. If a has a short–circuit.
fault is not found in this
step, replace the ignition
module.

FIGURE 15. ELECTRONIC SPARK TIMING (EST) TROUBLESHOOTING CHART (2 of 2)

17
 MAP
SENSOR
A B C
FIGURE 16. MAP SENSOR TROUBLESHOOTING
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE
(MAP) SENSOR
Circuit Description
When the load on the engine changes, the pressure in the
intake manifold changes. This pressure is less than the
atmospheric pressure. The Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) sensor measures the changes in the intake man-
ifold pressure and converts these changes to a voltage
signal. The MSTS module sends a reference signal (5.0
volts) to the MAP sensor. When the manifold pressure
changes, the electrical resistance of the MAP sensor
changes and a variation of the voltage signal is received
by the MSTS module.
When the engine is at idle speed and does not have a load
on it, the normal signal voltage from the MAP sensor is
approximately 1.0 to 1.5 volts. When the throttle valve
is fully opened, the intake manifold pressure is higher
(lower vacuum) and the signal voltage from the MAP
sensor is approximately 4.5 to 4.8 volts.
When the ignition switch is turned to ON, the initial
voltage signal from the MAP sensor indicates the baro-
metric pressure (BARO signal) to the MSTS module.
The MSTS module “remembers” the barometric pres-
sure (BARO signal) after the engine is running. The
MSTS module then automatically adjusts the ignition
timing for different altitudes and atmospheric condi-
tions.
18
MSTS MODULE
5 VOLT
J REFERENCE
H MAP SIGNAL
M SENSOR
GROUND
Test Description
NOTE: If a malfunction indicates a fault in the MAP
sensor, make the following checks before doing tests on
the MAP sensor:
a. Make sure that the vacuum hose is not damaged.
Disconnect the vacuum hose from the MAP sen-
sor. Connect a vacuum gauge to the end of the
hose and start the engine. Check that the vacuum
indication from the engine to the MAP sensor is
correct. The engine will normally apply greater
than 34 kPa (10” Hg) of vacuum to the MAP sen-
sor.
b. If a malfunction indicates a fault in the MAP sen-
sor, make sure that the electrical connections do
not have dirt and corrosion. A bad electrical con-
nection can give an indication of a malfunction in
the MAP sensor.
NOTE: Make sure that the same digital voltmeter is
used for all measurements. The voltage and resistance
measurements must be carefully done. The differences
in measurements are small and the use of more than one
measuring instrument can give errors.
There are two tests in this procedure. The first test
checks the electrical signals between the MAP sensor
and the MSTS module. The second test checks the sig-
nal output of the MAP sensor when a standard vacuum is
applied to it.
Test 1. Do the following test procedure:
a. The key switch is OFF. Disconnect the connector
from the MAP sensor. The engine is stopped and
the key switch is ON. Connect a digital voltmeter
between terminal A and terminal C the plug con-
nector. Terminal C is the 5 volt reference voltage
and terminal A is the sensor ground. Carefully
measure the actual reference voltage (“5V REF-
ERENCE”) between the two terminals.
b. Use a barometer or call a local weather station to
find the local atmospheric pressure. Find the
number in the “Atmospheric Pressure” column in
the chart that is the closest to the atmospheric
pressure. See TABLE 1.
c. Find the “5V REFERENCE” column in the chart
that is closest to the actual reference voltage mea-
sured in step a. Follow the “5V REFERENCE”
column into the signal voltage area until it inter-
sects with the horizontal column for “Atmo-
spheric Pressure” that was found in step b. Make
a note of the “MAP Sensor Signal Voltage” where
the two columns intersect.
d. Three jumper wires are needed so that the voltage
can be measured when the connector to the wir-
ing harness is connected to the MAP sensor. Use
the jumper wires to connect the terminals A, B,
and C to their connections in the wiring harness.
e. Connect the “+” probe of the digital voltmeter to
terminal B (MAP signal voltage). Connect the
negative (or COMM) probe to terminal A (sensor
ground).
f. The engine is stopped and the key switch is ON.
Measure the MAP sensor signal voltage. The
voltage must be within +0.4 volts of the voltage
value found on the chart in step c. If the voltage is
not within these limits, replace the MAP sensor.
Test 2. The jumper wires must be installed as described
in Test 1, step d. The voltmeter must be connected as de-
scribed in Test 1, step e. Do the following procedure:
a. Disconnect the vacuum hose at the MAP sensor
and install a plug in the hose. Connect a vacuum
pump that can be operated by hand to the MAP
sensor.
b. Start the engine and run the engine at idle speed.
c. Use the vacuum pump to apply 34 kPa (20” Hg)
of vacuum to the MAP sensor. (See the PRES-
SURE CONVERSION CHART at the end of this
section.) Look at the voltage change indicated on
the voltmeter. The voltage change will normally
occur as quickly as the vacuum is applied to the
MAP sensor.
d. Compare the voltage indicated on the voltmeter
with the voltage indicated in Test 1, step f. The
correct voltage indicated in this step will be 1.2 to
1.3 volts less that the voltage indicated in Test 1,
step f.
e. If the voltage signals are correct, check for vacu-
um leaks in the hoses and connections. If the volt-
age signals are not correct, replace the MAP sen-
sor.
19
 TABLE 1. VOLTAGE AND PRESSURE FOR MAP SENSOR TROUBLESHOOTING
5 VOLT REFERENCE
ATMOSPHERIC
PRESSURE 4.80 4.90 5.00 5.10 5.20

kPa inches of Hg MAP SENSOR SIGNAL VOLTAGE

64.35 19.0 2.75 2.80 2.86 2.92 2.97
66.04 19.5 2.83 2.89 2.95 3.01 3.07
67.73 20.0 2.92 2.98 3.04 3.10 3.16
69.43 20.5 3.00 3.07 3.13 3.19 3.25
71.12 21.0 3.09 3.15 3.22 3.28 3.35
72.81 21.5 3.18 3.24 3.31 3.37 3.44
74.51 22.0 3.26 3.33 3.40 3.47 3.53
76.20 22.5 3.35 3.42 3.49 3.56 3.63
77.89 23.0 3.43 3.51 3.58 3.65 3.72
79.59 23.5 3.52 3.59 3.67 3.74 3.81
81.28 24.0 3.61 3.68 3.76 3.83 3.91
82.97 24.5 3.69 3.77 3.85 3.92 4.00
84.67 25.0 3.79 3.86 3.94 4.01 4.09
86.36 25.5 3.86 3.94 4.03 4.11 4.19
88.05 26.0 3.95 4.03 4.11 4.20 4.28
89.75 26.5 4.04 4.12 4.20 4.29 4.37
91.44 27.0 4.12 4.20 4.29 4.38 4.47
93.13 27.5 4.21 4.30 4.38 4.47 4.56
94.83 28.0 4.29 4.38 4.47 4.56 4.65
96.49 28.5 4.38 4.47 4.56 4.65 4.75
98.19 29.0 4.47 4.56 4.65 4.75 4.84
99.88 29.5 4.55 4.65 4.74 4.84 4.93
101.57 30.0 4.64 4.74 4.83 4.93 5.03
103.27 30.5 4.72 4.84 4.92 5.02 5.12
104.96 31.0 4.81 4.91 5.01 5.11 5.21

20
 B A ENGINE COOLANT
SENSOR
INITIAL TIMING
CONNECTOR
B A
B A
FIGURE 17. ECT SENSOR TROUBLESHOOTING
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE
SENSOR (ECT)
NOTE: This troubleshooting is normally used only if
there is a problem when the engine coolant is cold. A
fault in the ECT normally causes a problem before the
engine coolant has increased to operating temperature.
The problem can be a short delay when the throttle is
opened or a decrease in engine power.
Circuit Description (See FIGURE 17.)
The Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (ECT) uses a
thermistor to control the signal voltage to the MSTS
module. The MSTS module (terminal G) applies a
5–volt reference voltage to the ECT. When the engine
coolant is cold, the thermistor resistance is higher than
when the engine coolant is at operating temperature. As
the temperature of the engine coolant increases after the
engine is started, the resistance decreases and the signal
MSTS MODULE
SENSOR
GROUND
M
5 VOLT
G REFERENCE
ECT SIGNAL
voltage decreases. When the engine is operating at 85 to
95°C (185 to 203°F), the signal voltage is approximate-
ly 1.5 to 2.0 volts.
Test Description (See FIGURE 18.)
The numbers in circles on the troubleshooting chart
have the following indications:
1 This step checks if there is a fault in the wiring or
the MSTS module or if the fault is in the ECT.
2 Make sure the electrical connections do not have
dirt and corrosion. If an ohmmeter is connected
across the terminals A and B of the ECT, the resis-
tance normally decreases as the temperature of
the engine coolant increases.
3 This step checks if there is a fault in the wiring to
the ECT or the sensor ground.
21
 1 a. Turn the key switch to OFF. COOLANT SENSOR
b. Disconnect the connector at the ECT. TEMPERATURE TO RESISTANCE VALUES
c. Turn the key switch to ON. (APPROXIMATE)
d. Connect a digital voltmeter across the two °C °F OHMS
terminals of the connector to the ECT. Check
that the voltage signal is greater than 4 volts. 100 210 185
70 160 450
38 100 1,800
20 70 3,400
NO 4 40 7,500
–7 20 13,500
3 –18 0 25,000
a. Connect the “+” probe of the digital –40 –40 1,000,700
voltmeter to terminal B (5V signal circuit)
on the connector.
b. Connect the negative (COMM) probe
to a good ground connection on the
engine. Check that the voltage signal is
greater than 4 volts.

NO
YES
a. Remove the voltmeter.
2 There is a bad connection or the ECT has a
b. Turn the key switch to ON. fault. Make repairs.
c. Connect a test light to battery voltage B+.
d. Touch the probe of the test light to
terminal B on the connector to the ECT. YES
Check that the test light illuminates.
Open circuit in the sensor ground
or
NO bad connection at the MSTS module
or
Circuit for 5V signal is open fault in the MSTS module. Make repairs as
or necessary.
bad connection at the MSTS module
or YES
fault in the MSTS module. Make repairs as
necessary.
Disconnect the MSTS module. Is the test light
still illuminated?

YES NO

Circuit for 5V Circuit for 5V signal has

signal has a a short–circuit to
short–circuit. sensor ground
or
there is a fault in the
MSTS module. Make
repairs as necessary.

FIGURE 18. ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

22
 REPAIRS
NOTE: This REPAIR section describes the components
of the MSTS and how to remove or replace them.
DISTRIBUTOR
A distributor with a separate ignition coil is used on all
MSTS engines. The ignition coil is connected to the ro-
tor in the distributor through a high voltage wire. The
operation of the ignition module and the magnetic pulse
generator is described under OPERATION at the begin-
ning of this section.
When the current in the primary circuit of the ignition
coil quickly decreases, the induction in the secondary
circuit sends a high voltage pulse (35 000 volts) to the
rotor in the distributor. The rotor is aligned with one of
the leads to a spark plug wire and this high voltage pulse
is sent to one of the spark plugs.
Removal
CAUTION
Carefully lift and release the lock tabs on the connec-
tors to the distributor. The lock tabs can be easily
broken if too much force is applied with a screwdriv-
er or other tool.
Never permit the TACH CONN. terminal to touch
ground. The ignition module or the ignition coil can
be damaged.
1. Disconnect the battery negative (ground) cable.
2. If removal of the spark plug wires are not required for
the repairs, leave them connected to the distributor cap.
Remove the two capscrews that fasten the distributor
cap to the distributor. Move the distributor cap away
from the work area.
3. Disconnect the distributor 4–terminal connector.
4. Disconnect the ignition coil connector.
5. Remove the bolt and clamp that hold the distributor in
the engine. Make a note of the positions of the rotor to
distributor housing and the distributor to the engine.
Slowly pull the distributor from the engine until the ro-
tor just stops turning counterclockwise and make a note
of the position of the rotor. This position must be used
when the distributor is installed again.
Disassembly (See FIGURE 19.)
1. Remove the rotor (2). Make a match mark on the gear
(6) and the shaft (3) so that can be assembled in the same
position.
2. Use a punch to remove the roll pin (5) from the shaft
(3).
3. Remove the gear (6).
4. Remove the shaft (3) with the timer core from the
housing (8).
5. Remove the retainer (4) from the housing (8). Use a
screwdriver as a prybar.
6. Disconnect the sensing coil (12) from the ignition
module (9).
CAUTION
Carefully lift and release the lock tab on the connec-
tor to the sensing coil. The lock tab can be easily bro-
ken if too much force is applied with a screwdriver or
other tool.
7. Use a screwdriver to lift the lock tab. Remove the
sensing coil (12).
8. Remove the two screws that hold the ignition module
(9) in the housing. Remove the ignition module.
Inspection
Inspect the shaft for a loose fit between the shaft and its
bushing in the housing. If the bushing or the shaft is
worn so that the shaft moves from side to side in the
bushing, replace the shaft or the housing.
Inspect the housing for cracks or damage.
Assembly (See FIGURE 19.)
1. Apply silicon grease to the bottom of the ignition
module (9). Install the ignition module into the housing
(8) and tighten the two screws.
NOTE: Hyster Part No. 304408 is a silicon bearing
grease used between electronic components and their
heat sinks. A small container of silicon grease is en-
closed in the package with a new ignition module.
2. Install the sensing coil (12). The tab on the bottom of
the sensing coil fits into the anchor hole in the housing
(8).
23
3. Connect the sensing coil to the ignition module. Make
sure that the lock tab on the connector is fastened. 12
1

4. Install the retainer (4).

11
5. Install the shaft assembly (3) into the housing (8).
9
6. Install the seal (7) on the housing. Install the gear (6)
on the end of the shaft.
10
7. Align the marks on the gear and shaft. Install the roll 2
pin (5). Turn the shaft assembly and make sure the teeth
of the timer core on the shaft assembly do not touch the
pole piece.

8. Install the rotor (2) on the shaft. 8 3

7
Installation
6
1. Put the rotor and distributor in the same position as it
was removed from the engine. 5
4
1. CAP
2. ROTOR 7. SEAL
If the engine has been rotated after the distributor was
3. SHAFT/ 8. HOUSING
removed, the following procedure must be used before TIMER CORE 9. MODULE
the distributor is installed again: 4. RETAINER 10. ALIGNMENT PIN
5. PIN 11. POLE PIECE
a. Remove the No. 1 spark plug. 6. DRIVE GEAR 12. COIL

FIGURE 19. DISTRIBUTOR

b. Put a finger over the No. 1 spark plug hole and
slowly rotate the engine until pressure is felt on
the compression stroke.
c. Align the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley to
0° (TDC) on the engine timing indicator.
d. Turn the distributor rotor to point between the po-
sitions on the distributor cap for No. 1 and No. 4
spark plug leads.
2. Install the clamp and bolt. Tighten the bolt with your
hand.
3. Install the distributor 4–terminal connector.
4. Install the ignition coil connector.
5. Install the distributor cap and the two capscrews. If
the spark plug wires were removed. install them in the
correct sequence.

e. Install the distributor in the engine. The rotor and
shaft will rotate a few degrees when the gear on
the distributor shaft engages the drive gear on the
engine cam. The timing is correct if the rotor
points at the position on the distributor cap for the
No. 1 spark plug lead.
6. Connect the battery negative cable.
7. Start the engine and check the engine timing. See the
following paragraphs about “Ignition Timing”.
8. Tighten the bolt for the distributor clamp to 43 N.m
(25 lbf ft).

24
Ignition Timing
1. Disconnect the initial timing connector.
2. Connect a timing light to the No. 1 spark plug wire.
WARNING
Do not touch moving parts (fan, belt, shafts, pulleys).
3. Run the engine at 1200 rpm. The correct setting for
the initial timing set point is 8° BTDC.
4. Check for the correct timing. If the timing is not cor-
rect, loosen the clamp that holds the distributor housing.
Rotate the housing right or left to get the correct timing.
Tighten the clamp when the timing is correct.
5. If necessary, check and adjust the idle speed at the car-
buretor.
IGNITION MODULE
1. Disconnect the 4–terminal connector from the distrib-
utor. Use two jumper wires between the distributor and
the 4–terminal connector to connect the following cir-
cuits:
REFERENCE (Purple)
GROUND (Black)
2. Connect the test light to a 12 volt positive source. Start
the engine. Touch the probe of the test light to pin B in
the 4–terminal connector on the distributor. When 12
volts are applied through the test light to pin B (BY–
PASS), the ignition module changes to EST mode. The
EST connection (pin D) is open and the engine will nor-
mally stop. This step checks the BY–PASS operation of
the ignition module.
3. Use a jumper to connect pin D (EST) to pin C (REF-
ERENCE) at the distributor. Apply 12–volts through the
test light to pin B (BY–PASS) as described in step 2.
Start the engine. If the engine starts, this step checks that
the EST circuit in the ignition module is good.

Test For A Fault (See FIGURE 20.)
NOTE: The ignition module can be checked in the dis-
tributor. A test light and three jumper wires are needed
to make the tests. The battery in the vehicle must be fully
charged so that the starter rotates the engine at the nor-
mal speed.
4. Remove the test light from pin B (BY–PASS) while
the engine is running. If the engine stops, this check
shows that the ignition module internally changes the
EST circuit to ground. Since there is a jumper wire be-
tween pin D (EST) to pin C (REFERENCE), the REF-
ERENCE signal is also sent to ground and the engine
stops.

DISTRIBUTOR
TACH SENSING A B C D
CONN. 4–TERMINAL
IGN COIL
IGNITION COIL CONNECTOR
CONNECTOR
+ C
MSTS
MODULE
TO
DISTRIBUTOR P N
IGNITION
MODULE
+ C G B R E
TO
IGN

A B C D
F EST
D REFERENCE
E BY–PASS
K
IGNITION TACHOMETER
COIL CONNECTOR

FIGURE 20. IGNITION SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING

25
5. If any tests described in steps 2, 3, or 4 do not work as
indicated, check the wiring harness for a short–circuit or
an open circuit. If the wiring harness is good, replace the
ignition module.
6. When the tests are complete, connect the system for
normal operation.
Ignition Module Replacement
1. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.
2. Remove the two screws that hold the ignition module
in the distributor.
3. Lift the ignition module and disconnect the connec-
tions. Make a note of the connections so that they can be
correctly connected again. Remove the ignition module
from the distributor.
NOTE: Do not remove the silicon grease from the igni-
tion module or the distributor if the same ignition mod-
ule will be installed again. If a new ignition module is
installed, a small container of silicon grease is in the
package. Clean the old silicon grease and apply a new
layer of silicon grease to both the ignition module and
the distributor housing. This silicon grease is necessary
for cooling the ignition module.
4. Connect the connectors in the distributor to the igni-
tion module. Make sure the connectors are the same as
when they were removed.
5. Install the ignition module in the distributor.
6. Install the two screws that fasten the ignition module
in the distributor.
7. Install the distributor cap and rotor.
SENSING COIL
Test For A Fault
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
26
STEP 2.
1
2
STEP 1.
1. SENSING COIL
CONNECTIONS
2. OHMMETER
FIGURE 21. TEST THE SENSING COIL
2. Remove the distributor cap. Disconnect the connec-
tion from the sensing coil to the ignition module.
3. Check the resistance of the sensing coil with an ohm-
meter. Connect ohmmeter to the sensing coil connec-
tions as shown in step 1 of FIGURE 21. Check the resis-
tance between both connections and ground. The ohm-
meter will indicate infinity for both connections, if the
sensing coil is good.
4. Connect ohmmeter across both sensing coil connec-
tions as shown in step 2 of FIGURE 21. If the ohmmeter
does not indicate 500 to 1500 ohms, replace the sensing
coil. Check the wires for a loose connection.
Sensing Coil Replacement
Remove and disassemble the distributor as described in
the repairs for the DISTRIBUTOR.
IGNITION COIL
Test For A Fault
1. Disconnect the battery negative (ground) cable.
2. Disconnect the high voltage wire.
3. Disconnect the connectors at the ignition coil.
4. Set the ohmmeter on one of the higher scales. Connect
the ohmmeter as shown in step 1 of FIGURE 22. If the
ohmmeter indication is less than infinity, install a new
ignition coil.
5. Set the ohmmeter on one of the low scales. Connect
the ohmmeter as shown in step 2 of FIGURE 22. If the
ohmmeter indication is greater than zero to one ohm, in-
stall a new ignition coil.
6. Set the ohmmeter on one of the middle scales. Con-
nect the ohmmeter as shown in step 3 of FIGURE 22. If
the ohmmeter indication is infinity (open circuit), install
a new ignition coil.
Removal
1. Turn the key switch to “OFF”. Apply the parking
brake.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Put tags for identification on the connectors and dis-
connect them from the coil.
1
CAUTION
Do not damage the high voltage wires (spark plug
wires) during removal. Hold the wire by the boot
near the end of the wire. Rotate the boot before pull-
ing it and the connection from the terminal.
4. Remove the high voltage wire.
5. Remove the nuts (or capscrews) that fasten the brack-
et for the ignition coil to the engine.
6. Remove the ignition coil and bracket assembly from
the engine.
7. Use a drill and punch to remove the two rivets that fas-
ten the bracket to the coil.
Installation
1. Install the original bracket on the replacement coil us-
ing screws (supplied with replacement coil).
2. Install the ignition coil assembly on the engine with
nuts (or capscrews).
3. Install the control wire connectors and the high volt-
age wire on the ignition coil.
4. Connect the negative (ground) battery cable.

MSTS MODULE
NOTE: See the TROUBLESHOOTING descriptions to
check the operation of the MSTS module. The follow-
ing paragraphs describe the removal and installation of
the MSTS module.

2
CAUTION
Never connect or disconnect the wiring harness at
the MSTS module when the key switch is “ON”. Nev-
er connect jumper wires or test instruments to the
MSTS module when the key switch is “ON”. The best
STEP 1.
STEP 3. procedure is to disconnect the battery negative cable
when removing or installing electrical components.
4 3
Do not touch the connector pins or the soldered con-
STEP 2.
nections on the circuit board. The MSTS module can
1. CLEAN METAL FOR GROUND CONNECTION be damaged with an electrostatic discharge.
2. OHMMETER
3. C– AND TACH CONNECTOR Removal
4. B AND + TERMINALS

FIGURE 22. IGNITION COIL 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable. Disconnect the
14–pin connector at the MSTS module.

27
2. Remove the three bolts that fasten the MSTS module 1. Disconnect the battery negative cable. Disconnect the
to its mount. Remove the MSTS module. connector at the ECT sensor.

Installation
1. Install the MSTS module on its mount surface and in-
stall the three bolts.
2. Connect the 14–pin connector at the MSTS module.
Connect the battery negative cable.
2. Use a wrench and carefully loosen the ECT from the
coolant manifold.
3. Install the ECT in its hole in the coolant manifold and
carefully tighten it with a wrench.
4. Connect the connector at the ECT. Connect the bat-
tery negative cable.

MAP SENSOR REPLACEMENT

(See FIGURE 25.)

NOTE: The MAP sensor is on the left–hand side of the

bracket that is on top of the valve cover.

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable. Disconnect the

PNMLKJH GFEDCBA vacuum hose from the MAP sensor. Disconnect the
electrical connector at the MAP sensor.

14–PIN CONNECTOR 2. Remove screws that fasten the MAP to its mount. Re-
move the MAP sensor.
FIGURE 23. MSTS MODULE
3. Install the MAP sensor on its mount surface and in-
ECT SENSOR REPLACEMENT stall the screws.
(See FIGURE 24.)
4. Connect electrical connector at the MAP sensor. Con-
NOTE: See the TROUBLESHOOTING descriptions to nect the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor. Connect the
check the operation of the ECT sensor. The following battery negative cable.
paragraphs describe the disconnection or the removal
and installation of the ECT sensor.

1
2
1
3

1. TEMPERATURE SENSOR 1. SENSOR

2. ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR 2. ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
3. LOCK TAB
FIGURE 25. MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE
FIGURE 24. ENGINE COOLANT PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR
TEMPERATURE SENSOR (ECT)

28
 ABSOLUTE GAUGE
PRESSURE CONVERSION CHART
PRESSURE PRESSURE

Vacuum and pressure readings often cause confusion because Inches Inches
kPa
everyone does not use the same point of reference. “Absolute
Absolute of Hg of Hg
pressure” is the “gauge pressure” plus the atmospheric pressure. 121.92 36 6
The standard atmospheric pressure is also called the standard Pressure
barometric pressure and is equal to 101.325 kPa (14.695 psi) or 115.14 34 4
[29 92 inches of mercury (Hg)] at sea level
[29.92 level. The reference point for
these measurements is zero pressure or an absolute vacuum. 108.4 32 2

101.6 30 0
Service people normally use “gauge
gauge pressure
pressure” as the reference point
which does not add the atmospheric pressure. The reference point 94.8 28 2
for “gauge pressure” is atmospheric pressure.
pressure It is important to know
when readingg a pressure
p chart whether the units are given
g in 88.0 26 4
“ b l t pressure”” or ““gauge pressure”.
“absolute ” V
Vacuum
81.3 24 6
The gauges used by most service people indicate “gauge pressure”. 74.51 22 8
However most gauges calibrated in a metric scale (kilopascals) and
However,
p
used to measure less than atmospheric p
pressure normallyy indicate 67.73 20 10
absolute
b l t pressure as shown
h in
i the
th chart.
h t A gauge calibrated
lib t d in
i
60.96 18 12
inches of Hg and used to measure a vacuum begins at zero and
increases its indication as the vacuum increases as shown in the 54.18 16 14
“gauge pressure” column of the chart.
47.41 14 16
An additional cause of confusion is that the manifold pressure gauge
40.64 12 18
for an engine with a turbocharger is normally calibrated for absolute
pressure for both kilopascals and inches of Hg. The Manifold 33.87 10 20
Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor described in this section is also
calibrated for absolute pressure, but the service person doing 27.09 8 22
checking or troubleshooting will often be using gauges calibrated for
“gauge pressure”..
gauge pressure 20.32 6 24

13.55 4 26

29
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 INTRODUCTION
GENERAL
This section has the troubleshooting and repair proce-
dures for the parts of the electronic engine controls. Us-
ers of this section must know the components and opera-
tion as described in the section ELECTRONIC EN-
GINE CONTROL – Description and Operation,
2200 SRM 612.
The electronic engine control system is made of many
parts. The main parts are the Throttle Body Injection
(TBI) unit and the Electronic Control Module (ECM).
These parts and their sensors give information about en-
gine operation and the systems it controls. The ECM has
the ability to perform some troubleshooting of itself and
of other parts of the system. When a problem is found,
the ECM turns “ON” the “Malfunction Indicator” lamp
that is in the instrument cluster. A diagnostic trouble
code (DTC) is kept in the memory of the ECM.
TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE
Before using this part of the manual, you need to know
the information and the correct troubleshooting proce-
dures. If the correct troubleshooting procedures are not
followed, as described in this section, it can result in re-
placement of good parts. Troubleshooting charts use a
“SCAN” tool where possible. The “SCAN” tool has the
ability to save time in troubleshooting and preventing
the replacement of good parts.
HOW THIS SECTION IS ARRANGED
This section is in five parts that describe the trouble-
shooting and repair procedures. They are as follows.
INTRODUCTION
TROUBLESHOOTING CHARTS
TROUBLESHOOTING – POOR OPERATION
SYSTEM TEST CHARTS
REPAIRS
Where Do I Start?
There are three things to do to start troubleshooting. The
first item is to become familiar with the electronic en-
gine control system.
Secondly, always start your work with a good visual/
physical inspection. See the following paragraph for
more explanation.
The last item on the ”Where Do I Start” list is the ”On–
Board Diagnostic” (OBD) System Check.
VISUAL/PHYSICAL INSPECTION
A careful visual and physical inspection must be done as
part of any diagnostic procedure. This can cause the re-
pair of a problem without further steps. Inspect all vacu-
um hoses for correct routing, restrictions, cuts or bad
connections. Be sure to inspect hoses that are difficult to
see beneath the air filter. Inspect all the wires in the en-
gine compartment for proper connections, damaged
spots, or contact with sharp edges or the exhaust man-
ifolds. This visual/physical inspection is very impor-
tant. It must be done carefully.
KNOWLEDGE/TOOLS REQUIRED
To use this manual most effectively, a general under-
standing of basic electrical circuits and circuit testing
tools is required. One should be familiar with wiring
diagrams, the meaning of voltage, ohms, amps, the basic
theories of electricity, and understand what happens in
an open or shorted wire. To perform the troubleshooting
procedures, the use of a diagnostic “SCAN” tool is re-
quired. A tachometer, test lamp, ohmmeter, digital volt-
meter with 10 megohms impedance, vacuum gauge, and
jumper wires are also required. Special tools that are re-
quired for system service and the ones described above
are shown at the end of this section.
DAMAGE FROM STATIC DISCHARGE
(STATIC ELECTRICITY)
Electronic components used in control systems use a
very low voltage, and can be easily damaged by static
discharge or static electricity. Less than 100 volts of stat-
ic electricity can cause damage to some electronic com-
ponents. There are several ways for a person to become
1
statically charged. The most common methods of charg-
ing are by friction and by induction. An example of
charging by friction is a person sliding across a car seat;
in which a charge of as much as 2 to 5,000 volts can build
up. Charging by induction occurs when a person with
well insulated shoes stands near a highly charged object
and momentarily touches ground. Charges of the same
polarity are drained off, leaving the person highly
charged with the opposite polarity Static charges of ei-
ther type can cause damage, therefore, it is important to
use care when handling and testing electronic compo-
nents.
NOTE: To prevent damage by static electricity, DO
NOT touch the ECM connector pins.
FIGURE 1. ECM
TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION
The troubleshooting charts and function checks in this
section are designed to find a bad circuit or component
through logic based on the process of elimination. The
charts are prepared with the requirement that the vehicle
functioned correctly at the time of assembly and that
there are no multiple failures. The ECM does constant
testing on certain control functions. The ECM commu-
nicates the source of a malfunction with Diagnostic
Trouble Codes (DTC). The DTC’s are two digit num-
bers that can range from 12 to 99. When a malfunction is
found by the ECM, a DTC is set and the “Malfunction
Indicator” lamp is turned “ON”.
2
“Malfunction Indicator” Lamp (MIL)
This lamp is on the instrument cluster and has the fol-
lowing functions.
It lets the operator know that a problem has occurred
and that the vehicle must be taken for service as soon as
possible.
It displays Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC’s) kept by
the ECM which help the technician troubleshoot system
problems.
As a bulb and system check, the lamp will come “ON”
with the ignition switch ON and the engine not running.
When the engine is started, the lamp will turn “OFF.”
If the lamp remains “ON”, the system has found a prob-
lem. This problem is referred to as a ”current” DTC. If
the problem goes away, the lamp will go out after 10 se-
conds. In either condition a ”DTC” will remain in the
ECM.
When the lamp remains “ON” while the engine is run-
ning, or when there is a malfunction, the “On–Board
Diagnostic” (OBD) System Check must be done.
When a problem is not regular or constant, the “Mal-
function Indicator” lamp will turn “ON” for approxi-
mately ten (10) seconds and then will go turn “OFF”.
However, the diagnostic trouble code (DTC) will be
kept in the memory of the ECM until the DTC’s are
cleared (see DTC clearing in this section). An DTC that
is not constant can reset. If it is a problem that is not
constant a DTC Chart is not used. However you can use
the “Other Troubleshooting Checks” on the page facing
the troubleshooting chart for that DTC to help locate the
problem.
Reading Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
The Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) is used to com-
municate with the ECM. See FIGURE 2. The DLC is
installed on the bracket on top of the valve cover. It is
used in the assembly plant to receive information in
checking that the engine is operating correctly before it
leaves the plant. The DTC(s) kept in the ECM’s memory
can be read with a ”SCAN” tool connected to the DLC.

1
1. DIAGNOSTIC LINK CONNECTOR
FIGURE 2. DIAGNOSTIC LINK CONNECTOR
When the “SCAN” tool is connected to the DLC with
the key switch ON and the engine “OFF”, the system
will enter the Diagnostic Mode. At this point, the “Mal-
function Indicator” lamp will flash DTC 12 three times
consecutively (see FIGURE 3. The following is the
flash sequence for ”12”: “long pause, flash, pause,
flash–flash, long pause,.flash, pause, flash.flash, long
FLASH FLASH–FLASH
LONG PAUSE
PAUSE
LONG PAUSE
FIGURE 3. DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE 12 EXAMPLE
pause flash, pause, flash–flash.” DTC 12 (which means
no crankshaft rpm signal) indicates that the ECM’s diag-
nostic system is operating correctly at this time. If DTC
12 is not indicated, a problem is in the diagnostic system
itself.
Following the output of DTC 12, if additional codes are
stored, the “Malfunction Indicator” lamp will flash the
DTC three times. If more than one DTC has been stored
in the ECM’s memory, the DTC’s will be flashed start-
ing with the newest DTC set and finishing with the old-
est DTC set. Remember each DTC will be flashed three
times. When all DTC’s have been flashed the sequence
will start over again with DTC 12.
Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC’s)
Install the “SCAN” tool according to the operator’s
manual for the tool. Select clear DTC’s from the tools
menu. This operation electronically clears all ECM
DTC’s. Check for DTC’s again to see that the DTC’s are
cleared.
3
 TABLE 1. ECM DIAGNOSTIC CODES AVAILABLE
CODE DESCRIPTION TURN ON “MALFUNCTION
INDICATOR” LAMP
14 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit – High Volts Yes
15 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit – Low Volts Yes
21 Throttle Position Sensor – High Volts Yes
22 Throttle Position Sensor – Low Volts Yes
31 Governor Circuit Malfunction Yes
33 MAP Sensor Circuit – High Volts Yes
34 MAP Sensor Circuit – Low Volts Yes
42 EST Circuit Malfunction Yes
51 ECM Internal Problem Yes

Field Service Mode

CAUTION
To prevent ECM damage, the key must be OFF when
disconnecting or reconnecting ECM power.
Diagnostic Mode
When the “SCAN” tool is connected to the DLC with
the key switch ON and the engine “OFF”, the system
will enter the Diagnostic Mode.
If the “SCAN” tool is connected to to the DLC and
turned ON with the engine running, the system will en-
ter the Field Service mode. This will cause the engine to
run at approximately 1500 rpm and 8° before top dead
center spark advance. While the system is in Field Ser-
vice Mode, new trouble codes can be kept in the ECM.
NOTE: The ignition timing can be set with a timing
light.

1. Display a DTC 12 by flashing the “Malfunction Indi- ECM Learning Ability

cator” lamp (indicating the system is operating correct-
ly).
2. Display any additional stored DTC’s by flashing the
“Malfunction Indicator” lamp. Each DTC will flash
three times, then DTC 12 will flash again.
3. The IAC valve moves to its fully extended position,
blocking the idle air passage.
The ECM has a “learning” ability that lets it make
corrections for variations in the idle system to improve
idle performance. If the battery is disconnected for any
reason, the “learning” process resets and begins again.
To “teach” the vehicle, make sure that the engine is at
operating temperature. Drive the lift truck at part
throttle, with moderate acceleration, and idle until nor-
mal performance returns.

4
 TABLE 2. “SCAN” TOOL INFORMATION
Test under following conditions:
Idle speed, upper radiator hose hot, throttle closed, NEUTRAL, all accessories “OFF”

“SCAN” Position Units Displayed Values

Engine Speed rpm +100 rpm from
Idle Speed rpm ECM idle command (changes with temperature)
Coolant Temp. °C /°F 85 to 100°C/180° to 212°F
Ignition Volts volts 12.5 to 14.5 v
MAP Volts/kPa 1 to 2 (depends on Vac. and BARO press.), 30–40 kPa
BARO Volts/kPa 1 to 2 (depends on BARO pressure), 98–102 kPa
Throttle Position volts .45 to 1.25 v
Throttle Angle 0 to 100% 0
Governor TPS 0 to 100% 0
Desired Governor TPS 0 to 100% 0
Governor Enable Yes/No Yes
Governor rpm Control Active/Not Active Not Active
Governor rpm Mode High rpm/Normal Normal
Idle Air Control Counts/Steps Between 5 and 50
rpm Overspeed Yes/No No
Fuel Trim Steps N/A
Injector Pulse Width MSec .8 to 3.0 mSEC
Spark Advance No. of Degrees Varies
Base Timing N/A N/A
Knock Signal Yes/No No
Knock Retard No. of Degrees 0 Degrees
Governor mph Control Active/Not Active Not Active
Vehicle Speed mph 0 mph
mph Overspeed Yes/No No
Low Oil Pressure Yes/No No
Power Steering Switch Normal/High Normal
Emergency Stop Active/Not Active Not Active
Lift Mode Active/Not Active Not Active
EEPROM ID number XXXX (varies with calibration) – 2201
Time From Start hrs., min., sec. 0:00:00 – 18:12:15

5
On–Board DIAGNOSTIC (OBD) System Check
The On–Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check is a
troubleshooting chart to find a problem caused by a mal-
function in the electronic engine control system. It must
be the starting point for any troubleshooting.
The ”SCAN” data shown in TABLE 2 can be used for
comparison after doing the troubleshooting checks and
finding the on–board diagnostics working correctly
with no trouble codes shown. The data are an average of
display values from normally operating vehicles and
show a display of a normally operating system.
After the visual/physical inspection, the “On–Board
Diagnostic (OBD) System Check” is the starting point
for all troubleshooting procedures.
The correct procedure to find a problem is to follow
three basic steps.
1. Are the On–Board Diagnostics working? This is de-
termined by doing the “OBD System Check” Since this
is the starting point for the troubleshooting procedures ,
always begin here.
6
If the On–Board Diagnostics do not work, the “OBD
System Check” will not lead to a troubleshooting chart
to fix the problem. If the On–Board Diagnostics are
working correctly, go to the next step.
2. Is there a Diagnostic Trouble Code? If there is a DTC,
go directly to the DTC chart for that number. This will
determine if the fault is still there. If there is no DTC,
then;
3. “SCAN” Serial Data transmitted by the ECM. This
involves reading the information available on the Serial
Data Stream with one of the tools available for that pur-
pose. Information on these tools and the meaning of the
displays can be found in the operator’s manual of the
tool. Readings for a certain operating condition can be
found in TABLE 2.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on
the next page.
1. Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 12 means no rpm
reference pulses from the ignition module. This is cor-
rect when engine is not running
DOES “SCAN” TOOL DISPLAY ECM DATA? USE CHART A–2

YES NO

USE CHART A–2

COMPARE “SCAN” TOOL DATA WITH TYPICAL

VALUES SHOWN ON PAGE 5. ARE VALUES NORMAL
OR WITHIN RANGE?

YES
NO

SEE TROUBLESHOOTING SEE TROUBLESHOOTING –

CHARTS. POOR OPERATION

ON–BOARD DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM CHECK

7
 TROUBLESHOOTING CHARTS
GENERAL
The following troubleshooting charts are designed to
give an efficient method of fault analysis on the elec-
tronic engine controls.
WARNING
This troubleshooting requires the operation of the
engine for some of the tests. Make sure the tests are
done carefully to prevent injury:
• Put the lift truck on a level surface. Lower the
carriage and forks and apply the parking
brake. Make sure the lift truck can not move
and cause an injury during the tests. Use
blocks as necessary to prevent movement of
the lift truck.
• The fuel system and the engine must operate
correctly. Any problems or leaks in the fuel
system and the engine must be repaired before
doing troubleshooting.
• The fan and the drive belts can remove fingers
or cause other injuries. Be careful that your
hands and tools do not touch the moving fan or
the drive belts.
• The engine exhaust and other parts of the en-
gine are hot. Do not touch a hot surface and
cause a burn.
CAUTION
Electronic equipment can be damaged if trouble-
shooting and repairs are not done correctly. The fol-
lowing CAUTIONS must be followed when doing
troubleshooting or repairs on an engine with an
ECM:
• Always disconnect the battery negative cable
before disconnecting and removing any parts
except as described in TROUBLESHOOT-
ING.
8
• Never start the engine unless the battery is
correctly connected.
• Never disconnect the battery from any equip-
ment when the engine is running.
• Never disconnect the battery from the charg-
ing system when the engine is running.
• If the battery must be charged with a battery
charger, ALWAYS disconnect the battery
from the electrical system.
• Make sure that all electrical connections are
clean and have good electrical contact.
• Never connect or disconnect the wiring har-
ness at the ECM when the key switch is “ON”.
• Never disconnect a jumper wire between the
terminals of the Diagnostic Link Connector
(DLC).
• Always disconnect the battery and the ECM
connectors if electric arc welding must be done
on the vehicle.
• If the engine compartment is cleaned with
steam, make sure that any water or steam is
not sent toward the ECM or its sensors. The
heat and steam can damage the electronic
components and cause corrosion in the electri-
cal connections.
• Use only the tools and test equipment de-
scribed in “TOOLS AND TEST EQUIP-
MENT” to prevent damage to good compo-
nents and to obtain correct test results.
• All voltage measurements must be made with
a digital voltmeter with a rating of 10 megohm
input impedance.
• When a test light is used in troubleshooting,
the test light must have less than 0.3 amps (300
milliamps) of maximum current flow. A test
for a correct test light is shown in FIGURE 4.
TOOLS AND TEST EQUIPMENT

The following tools are necessary for troubleshooting DC Amps

the system:
• Ohmmeter

• Digital voltmeter. The voltmeter must have a

minimum input impedance of 10–megohms. (A
digital voltmeter and ohmmeter are normally in-
cluded in a multi–meter test instrument.
TEST
LIGHT
• Tachometer with inductive trigger signal sensor.

• Test light that has a low current draw as described

in FIGURE 4.
• Vacuum pump with a gauge. This vacuum pump
is held and operated with the hand. The gauge
must be able to indicate a gauge pressure (vacu-
um) of 34 kPa [20 inches of mercury (20” Hg)].
(See the PRESSURE CONVERSION CHART at
the end of this section.)
• Spark tester. The spark tester is used to check the
secondary ignition. The spark tester is also called
an ST125 and creates a 25 kilovolt load on sec-
ondary ignition components.
– +
BATTERY
If the ammeter indicates less than 0.3 amps (300
milliamps), the test light can be used.
If the ammeter indicates more than 0.3 amps (300
milliamps), the test light can not be used
because it can cause damage to the electronic
components.
FIGURE 4. CURRENT FLOW TEST FOR A TEST
LIGHT

9
 BATTERY VOLTAGE,
BS
KEEP ALIVE MEMORY

CIRCUIT
BREAKER

5 AMP
JZ
BLOCK
GROUND
KD
JX

HQA

F G H J K DLC
A B C D E CONNECTOR

CHART A–1
NO “MALFUNCTION INDICATOR” LAMP
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The ”Malfunction Indicator” lamp will be “ON” when the ignition is ON and engine is not running. Voltage from the
ignition switch is supplied to the light bulb. The Electronic Control Module (ECM) will control the lamp and turn it
”ON” by connecting it to ground through circuit AZ.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference Other Troubleshooting Checks:
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on
If engine runs correctly, check for the following:
the next page.
• Fault in the light bulb.
1. This test gives a ground circuit for the Malfunction In-
• Circuit AZ is open.
dicator Lamp circuit. If lamp works now, then the exter-
nal circuits are correct. • 5 ampere circuit breaker is no good. This will
cause no dash indicator lights, gauges, or seat belt
2. This tests circuits HD, HC, and JM for voltage. reminder.

3. Using a test light connected to Battery +, check each
of the system ground circuits to be sure there is a good
ground.
4. If a fuse is open, remember to locate any short circuits
to ground or other high ampere causes on that circuit.
10
If Engine Cranks But Will Not Run:
• ECM Battery + fuse/circuit JY or HD or HC
open.
• ECM ignition fuse/circuit JM/JN is open.
• Poor connections to ECM.
 • IGNITION OFF.
DISCONNECT ECM CONNECTORS.
• IGNITION ON.
CONNECT TEST LIGHT TO GROUND
AND CIRCUIT HD, HC AND JM AT
CONNECTORS.
IS TEST LIGHT “ON” FOR ALL CIRCUITS?

REPAIR OPEN IN CIR-

CUITS THAT DID NOT
ENERGIZE TEST
LIGHT.

When repairs are complete, clear the codes from the ECM and check that the “Malfunction Indicator”
lamp does not indicate another problem.

CHART A–1 – NO “MALFUNCTION INDICATOR” LAMP

11
 BATTERY VOLTAGE,
BS
KEEP ALIVE MEMORY

CIRCUIT
BREAKER

5 AMP
JZ
BLOCK
GROUND
KD
JX

HQA

F G H J K DLC
A B C E F CONNECTOR

CHART A–2
NO “SCAN” DATA, NO DTC 12, “MALFUNCTION INDICATOR” LAMP ON

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The ”Malfunction Indicator” lamp (MIL) will be “ON” when the ignition is ON and the engine is ”not running. Voltage
from the ignition switch is supplied to the light bulb. The ECM will control the light and turn it ”ON” by connecting it
to ground through circuit AZ to the ECM.

With the diagnostic terminal is connected to ground, the light will flash a DTC 12, followed by any trouble code(s) kept
in memory. A steady light means a short to ground in the light control circuit AZ, or an open in circuit HS.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference • If the ”SCAN” is working correctly and circuit
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on HZ is good, the ECM can be the cause for the
the next page. ”NO SCAN DATA” symptom.
2. This step will check for an open diagnostic circuit HS.
1. If there is a problem with the ECM that causes a
3. If the light turns ”OFF” after the ECM connector J2 is
”SCAN” tool to not read data from the ECM, then the disconnected, then circuit AZ has a short circuit to
ECM will not flash a DTC 12. ground.
• If DTC 12 does flash, be sure that the ”SCAN” 4. At this point, the ”Malfunction Indicator” lamp wir-
tool is working correctly on another vehicle. ing is good. If DTC 12 does not flash, replace the ECM.
12
 • CONNECT “SCAN” TOOLTO DLC.
DOES MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP FLASH DTC 12?

• REPAIR OPEN OR SHORT IN CIRCUIT

HZ. IF CIRCUIT HZ IS CORRECT,
THEN REPLACE ECM.

• REPAIR:
OPEN OR GROUND CIRCUIT HS
OPEN CIRCUIT JW, AK,
IF THESE CIRCUITS ARE CORRECT,
THEN REPLACE ECM.

When repairs are complete, clear the codes from the ECM and check that the “Malfunction Indicator”
lamp does not indicate another problem.

CHART A–2 – NO “SCAN” DATA, NO DTC 12, “MALFUNCTION INDICATOR” LAMP ON

13
 ECM IGN FUSE
10A

JB JBA
FUEL
INJECTOR

A B
B
A COIL

A
A
B C
B
D ELECTRONIC
TACHOMETER DISTRIBUTOR SPARK TIMING
CONNECTION AND IGNITION MODULE (EST)

CHART A–3
THE STARTER ROTATES THE ENGINE, ENGINE WILL NOT RUN
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
Before using this chart, battery condition, engine cranking speed, and fuel quantity must be checked to make sure they
are correct.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference 2. If RPM was indicated during crank, the ignition mod-
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on ule is receiving a crank signal, but ”No Spark” at this test
the next page. indicates the ignition module is not triggering the coil.

1. A ”Malfunction Indicator” Lamp ”ON” is a test to de-
termine if there is battery and ignition voltage at the
ECM.
• No “SCAN” data can be caused by an ECM prob-
lem, CHART A–2 will diagnose the ECM.
• If throttle or coolant sensors are not within these
ranges, the ECM can be using the wrong mode for
starting.
• The ”SCAN” tool will display RPM during
cranking if pulses are received at the ECM.
3. While cranking the engine, there must be no fuel
spray with the injector electrical connector discon-
nected. Replace the injector or seals if fuel sprays or
drips.
4. The test light will flash, indicating the ECM is con-
trolling the injector.
5. Fuel spray from the injector indicates that fuel is
available. However, the engine can be getting too much
fuel. No fuel spray from injector indicates a fault in the
fuel system or no ECM control of injector.

14
Other Troubleshooting Checks:
• Water or foreign material can cause a no start
condition during freezing weather. The engine
can start after approximately 5 minutes in a
heated shop.
• A MAP sensor voltage reading between .5 and
3.0 volts can cause a no start condition. Discon-
nect the MAP sensor. If the engine starts, replace
the MAP sensor. See MAP sensor test in RE-
PAIRS.
• If fuel pump fuse is damaged, test current draw of
pump motor in tank. If more than 5 to 6 amps, cor-
rect the circuit or replace the pump motor in the
tank.
15
 When repairs are complete,
• IGNITION ON. IF MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP IS “OFF”, USE CHART A–1.
• INSTALL “SCAN” TOOL. IF NO DATA, USE CHART A–2
clear the codes from the ECM
• CHECK THE FOLLOWING: and check that the “Malfunc-
– TPS – IF OVER 2.5 V AT CLOSED THROTTLE, USE DTC 21 tion Indicator” lamp does not
– IF LESS THAN .2 V, USE DTC 22
– COOLANT TEMP. – IF BELOW –30°C, USE DTC 15 indicate another problem.
– MAP – IF BELOW 3V, SEE “OTHER TROUBLESHOOTING CHECKS”

• CRANK ENGINE AND CHECK FOR SPARK AT

EACH CABLE WITH WITH ST–125
• IS THERE SPARK AT THE CABLES?

SPARK NO SPARK
ON ONE

REPLACE
CHECK IGNITION IGNITION
CIRCUIT MODULE

8329A OR

SEE CHART A–4.

• IGNITION “OFF”, INSTALL FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE. • CHECK FOR WET SPARK PLUGS,
• IGNITION “ON”. LOW FUEL PRESSURE – USE CHART
• CORRECT FUEL PRESSURE IS 62–90 KPA (9–13 PSI). A–7
IS IT? • SEE “OTHER TROUBLESHOOTING
CHECKS” FOR CHART A–3.

CHART A–3 – THE STARTER ROTATES THE ENGINE, ENGINE WILL NOT RUN
16
 ECM IGN FUSE
10A

JB JBA
IGNITION
FUEL
MODULE
INJECTOR

GBRE

ABCD

HX
GY
TO COIL
GZ
GW

CHART A–4
FUEL INJECTOR CIRCUIT
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
This troubleshooting chart is used if the troubleshooting Chart A–3 indicates a fuel injector problem.
TEST DESCRIPTION: The numbers below are a ref- a reference pulse is normally generated. If the TEST
erence to the numbers in circles in the troubleshooting LIGHT connected to the fuel injector circuit momen-
chart on the next page. tarily illuminates, the ECM and wires are correct.
2. This step checks for 12 volts to the fuel injector. This
1. This test will determine if the ignition module is gen-
test will also determine if there is a short–circuit to a
erating a reference pulse and check the wires and ECM
voltage source on the ECM side of the circuit.
for a fault. If a 12 VOLT TEST LIGHT is connected to
12 volts and then touched and removed from circuit GY, 3. This test checks for a good circuit to the ECM.

17
 When repairs are complete, clear the
From Chart A–3 codes from the ECM and check that the
TEST LIGHT in fuel injector circuit “Malfunction Indicator” lamp does not
does not “flash” with each pulse indicate another problem.

No light. Steady light.

1 • Disconnect the 4–way connector to the distributor. Check for short–circuit to ground
• Ignition “ON”. in circuit JBA.

• Momentarily touch the connector terminal to circuit GY with

one probe of the TEST LIGHT. The other probe of the TEST If no short–circuit to ground,
LIGHT must be connected to a 12 volt source. The TEST check the resistance across the
LIGHT connected to the fuel injector circuit will “flash” each fuel injector terminals.The
time the TEST LIGHT is removed from circuit GY. normal resistance is greater than
1.2 Ohms.

Light in injector circuit Light in injector circuit Yes No

does not “flash”. does “flash”.
Fault in Fault in fuel injector
• Fault in ignition module or ECM. and ECM.
connection.

2 Check for:
• open–circuit or short–circuit in circuit GY.
• bad connection at ECM connector terminal J2–8.
If no problem found at this point, do the following check:
• Ignition “ON”.
• Use a TEST LIGHT between each injector wire connector
and ground.

TEST LIGHT “ON” TEST LIGHT “OFF” TEST LIGHT “ON”

one terminal. both terminals. both terminals.

3 • Ignition “OFF”. Repair open Repair short–circuit to voltage in

ignition circuit JE. circuit JBA and check operation
• Connect again the wire connector to
with original ECM.
the fuel injector.
• Disconnect the J2 (32–pin) connector
to the ECM.
• Ignition “ON”.
• Use a TEST LIGHT between connector
terminals J2–21 and ground.

TEST LIGHT “ON” TEST LIGHT “OFF”

Fault in connection J1–11 Fault in connection or open–circuit

or J2–21, or fault in ECM. in circuit JBA.

CHART A–4 – FUEL INJECTOR CIRCUIT

18
 BS

ELECTRONIC
CONTROL
MODULE

CHART A–5
FUEL PUMP RELAY CIRCUIT
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
When the ignition switch is turned ON, the ECM will activate the fuel pump relay with a 12 volt signal and run the fuel
pump. The fuel pump relay will operate as long as the engine is cranking or running if the ECM is receiving ignition
reference pulses. The ECM will stop the fuel pump relay signal two seconds after the ignition reference pulses stop.
This will also occur two seconds after the key is ON and the engine not started.
If the fuel pump relay or the 12 volt relay drive from the ECM fail, the fuel pump will receive electrical current through
the circuit for the oil pressure switch when the engine is running.
The fuel pump test terminal is near the relay in the engine compartment. When the engine is stopped, the pump can be
turned ”ON” by applying Battery + to the test terminal.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference 4. At this point, the fuel pump relay is operating correct-
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on ly. Test the parallel circuit through the oil pressure
the next page. switch.
5. If fuse was damaged, check the circuit for too much
1. The test light will connect to ground through the relay current usage (including fuel pump).
to the fuel pump.
Other Troubleshooting Checks:
• A fuel pump relay that does not work can cause
2. If pump does not run, it can be damaged or worn. long cranking times. The extended crank period
is caused by the time necessary for oil pressure to
3. After the fuel pump relay is replaced, continue with reach the pressure required to close the oil pres-
the ”Oil Pressure Switch Test”, step 4. sure switch and turn ”ON” the fuel pump.

19
 When repairs are complete, clear the codes from the
ECM and check that the “Malfunction Indicator”
lamp does not indicate another problem.

OPEN CIRCUIT GJ/GH

OPEN CIRCUIT GM,
DAMAGED CONNEC-
TIONS OR DAMAGED
FUEL PUMP.

• APPLY BATTERY + TO RELAY CONNECTOR

TERMINAL “E”. DOES PUMP RUN?

• LET ENGINE RUN AT NORMAL TEMPERATURE AND OIL

PRESSURE
• DISCONNECT FUEL PUMP RELAY HARNESS CONNECTOR.
• ENGINE CONTINUES TO RUN?

CHART A–5 – FUEL PUMP RELAY CIRCUIT

20
 BS

CHART A–7
FUEL SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (1 of 3)
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
When the ignition switch is turned ON, the ECM will activate the fuel pump relay with a 12 volt signal and run the fuel
pump. The fuel pump relay will operate as long as the engine is cranking or running if the ECM is receiving ignition
reference pulses. The ECM will stop the fuel pump relay signal two seconds after the ignition references stop. This will
also occur two seconds after the key was ON and the engine not started.

If the fuel pump relay or the 12 volt relay drive from the ECM fail, the fuel pump will receive electrical current through
the oil pressure switch circuit when the engine is running.

When the engine is stopped, the fuel pump can be turned ”ON” by applying Battery + to the fuel pump ”test” terminal.
This terminal is located near the pump relay.

The fuel pump delivers fuel to the TBI unit where the system pressure is controlled to 62 to 90 kPa (9 to 13 psi). Excess
fuel is returned to the fuel tank.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on
the next page.
1. Check the fuel pressure while the pump is running.
Pressure will start to drop as soon as the pump stops be-
cause of an internal relief in the pressure regulator.
2. If engine does not run use CHART A–3
3. This test checks the operation of the fuel pump check
valve. A check valve that leaks will cause fuel in the
pressure line to drain back to the tank and cause long
start times. The amount of pressure is not important as
long as some pressure is maintained.

21
Other Troubleshooting Checks: • Long cranking times before engine starts.

Fuel system pressure that is not correct can cause one of • Rough idle or low idle speed.
the following symptoms: • Engine miss, feels like ignition problem.
• Cranks, but will not start. • High fuel usage, loss of power, poor perfor-
• Starts, but will not continue to run. mance.

When repairs are complete, clear the

codes from the ECM and check that the
“Malfunction Indicator” lamp does not
indicate another problem.

PROBLEM IS NOT
CONSTANT.
OPEN SHUT–OFF
VALVE.
NO PROBLEM
FOUND.

CHART A–7 – FUEL SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (1 of 3)

22
 RETURN LINE

FUEL RETURN
FUEL SUPPLY SHUT–OFF VALVE
FUEL PRESSURE SHUT–OFF VALVE
GAUGE

FUEL PRESSURE
TEST PORT

FUEL PRESSURE LINE

PUMP

FUEL FILTER FUEL TANK

STRAINER

CHART A–7
FUEL SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (2 of 3)

Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on
the next page.
1. Fuel pressure less than 62 kPa (9 psi) can cause sever-
al problems. It can cause hard starting in cold conditions
and poor performance. Low fuel pressure can also allow
the engine to run at idle or low speeds, but cause the en-
gine to run poorly or stall when more fuel is required
(such as accelerating or at high speed).
2. Causing a restriction in the fuel flow at the tank (as
shown) causes the fuel pump to develop its maximum
pressure. With the fuel pump running, pressure will in-
crease to more than 90 kPa (13 psi).
NOTE: Do not block the fuel return line completely
(outlet side of TBI assembly) as too much pressure can
damage the TBI pressure regulator.
3. This test determines if the high fuel pressure is caused
by a restriction in the fuel return line, or a problem with
the pressure regulator.
4. If pressure is correct at idle, yet becomes lower as the
engine is accelerated, then repair the restriction in fuel
feed line. If there is no restriction, replace the fuel pump.
5. Wrong fuel pump (too much capacity) can also cause
high pressure.
6. Check that the shut–off valves are open when fin-
ished.

23
 When repairs are complete, clear the
codes from the ECM and check that the
“Malfunction Indicator” lamp does not
indicate another problem.

CHART A–7 – FUEL SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (2 of 3)

24
 RETURN LINE

FUEL RETURN
FUEL SUPPLY SHUT–OFF VALVE
FUEL PRESSURE SHUT–OFF VALVE
GAUGE

FUEL PRESSURE
TEST PORT

FUEL PRESSURE LINE

PUMP

FUEL FILTER FUEL TANK

STRAINER

CHART A–7 – FUEL SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (3 of 3)

FUEL PRESSURE CHECK; 2. Connect fuel pressure gauge.

Tools Required: Fuel Pressure Gauge 3. Energize fuel pump.

WARNING 4. Compare fuel pressure to specifications.

A small amount of fuel may be released when con-
necting the fuel pressure gauge. To prevent a fire or 5. Disconnect power supply for the fuel pump.
personal injury, put a shop towel near the fuel pres-
sure port fitting before connecting the gauge. Clean 6. Disconnect fuel pressure gauge.
any fuel that leaks out. Put the towel in approved
container when connection is completed. 7. Replace the cap for the pressure gauge port.

1. Clean any dirt or grease from the cap for the pressure 8. Turn the ignition switch ON and OFF twice, waiting
gauge port, then remove it. ten seconds between cycles, and check for fuel leaks.

25
 TACH
CONN. A B C D DISTRIBUTOR
IGNITION COIL IGN 4–TERMINAL
CONNECTOR CONNECTOR
+ C
ELECTRONIC
CONTROL MODULE
PN

GBRE
TO
IGNITION
ABCD

HX GROUND

GY REFERENCE

GZ BY–PASS

GW ELECTRONIC
SPARK TIMING
(EST)

TACHOMETER
CONNECTION

CHART A–8 – IGNITION SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING

TEST DESCRIPTION: If a tachometer has been connected to the TACH CONN., disconnect it before doing this
test. The numbers below are a reference to the numbers in circles in the troubleshooting chart on the opposite page.
1. Check a minimum of two spark plug wires to make
sure that one of the spark plug wire does not have an
open circuit (Spark Tester ST–125).
2. If a spark occurs when the EST connector is discon-
nected, the output from the sensing coil is too low for
EST operation.
3. A spark indicates that the fault is in the distributor cap
or the rotor.
4. The normal voltage at the C and the + terminals is bat-
tery voltage. A low voltage can indicate:
a. An open circuit or a high resistance circuit from
the distributor to the ignition coil or
b. An open circuit in the primary winding of the ig-
nition coil.
If the voltage at C is less than battery voltage, and there
is 10 volts or more at +, there is an open circuit from C to
the ignition coil or an open circuit in the primary wind-
ing of the ignition coil.
26
5. Use the TEST LIGHT to check for a short circuit in
the EST module or in the circuit from the ignition coil to
the EST module. Check for approximately 12 volts be-
tween the TACH CONN. and ground.
If the voltage is low (approximately 1 to 6 volts), there
can be a fault in the ignition coil. This condition can
cause a failure in the ignition coil from too much heat. If
there is an open circuit in the primary winding of the ig-
nition coil, a low voltage can “leak” through the EST
module from the B+ to the TACH CONN. terminal.
6. The EST module normally goes ON when 1.5 to 8
volts is applied to terminal P. When the EST module is
ON, the voltage between the TACH CONN. and
ground will normally decrease to 7 to 9 volts. This test
checks if the sensing coil or the EST module has a fault.
When 1.5 to 8 volts is momentarily applied to terminal
P, this voltage acts as a trigger voltage that replaces the
voltage from the sensing coil. The procedure shows a
TEST LIGHT, but any low voltage, low current source
can be used as a trigger voltage.
7. When the momentary trigger voltage is removed, a no spark occurs, replace the ignition coil. If a spark oc-
spark is normally generated through the ignition coil. If curs, check the sensing coil and the rotating timer core.

TEST LIGHT
1 a. If a tachometer has been connected to the
TO DC
TACH CONN., disconnect it. PWER SUPPLY
(1.5 TO 8 V)
b. Turn the key switch to ON and use the
starter to rotate the engine. Check for a spark P N
IGNITION
at the spark plug. Use a spark tester (ST–125) MODULE
if it is available. If there is no spark on one wire, + C G B R E
check another wire. A few sparks and then
nothing is the same as no spark.

NO SPARK SPARK

Check for fuel supply to engine. Check spark

2 Disconnect the 4–terminal distributor connector plugs. Check for other faults not in the ignition
and check for a spark. system.

NO SPARK SPARK

3 Check for spark at coil wire while rotating the Replace sensing coil.
engine with the starter. (If the spark tester
(ST–125) is being used, leave the spark tester
connected to the coil wire for steps 4 through 7.)

NO SPARK SPARK

4 a. The engine is stopped. Turn the key switch to Inspect the distributor cap for water, cracks, or
ON. other damage. If the distributor cap is correct,
replace the distributor rotor.
b. Disconnect the 2–terminal C and + connector
at the distributor.
c. Using a voltmeter, check the voltage from
ground to the C and + terminals at the connector.

4 continued on next page.

CHART A–8 – IGNITION SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (1 of 2)

27
 From 4

Both terminals greater Both terminals less Only terminal C is less

than 10 volts than 10 volts than 10 volts

5 a. Connect the 2–terminal C
and + connector at the
distributor.
b. Turn the key switch to ON.
Check the voltage between the
TACH CONN. and ground.
Repair the wire from the
ignition module + terminal to
the + terminal on the ignition
coil.
Check for open circuit or short–
circuit from terminal C to
connector on ignition coil. If
circuit is correct, the fault is the
ignition coil or the connector.

Greater than 10 volts Less than 1 volt 1 to 10 volts

a. Connect a TEST LIGHT
between the TACH CONN. and
ground.
b. Rotate the engine with the
starter. Check the TEST LIGHT.
Repair the wire or the Replace the ignition module
connector for the TACH and check for spark from
CONN. and repeat step 5. ignition coil described in step 7.
SPARK NO SPARK

TEST LIGHT is steady System is Replace bad

correct. ignition coil.
6 a. Disconnect the distributor 4–terminal connector.
b. Remove the distributor cap. Disconnect the sensing TEST LIGHT blinks
coil from the ignition module.
c. Connect a voltmeter from the TACH CONN. to ground. Replace the ignition coil and check for
Turn key switch to ON. spark with the spark tester. If there is no
d. Insulate the probe on the TEST LIGHT to 6 mm (0.025 spark, install the original ignition coil and
in) from tip. Check the voltmeter when the TEST LIGHT replace the ignition module.
and the 1.5 to 8 volt source is momentarily touched to
terminal P.
No voltage decrease
Voltage decreases
Check the ground connection on the
ignition module. If connection is correct,
7 Check for spark from the coil wire with the spark tester
replace ignition module.
(ST–125) when the TEST LIGHT is removed from terminal P.

NO SPARK SPARK

Replace ignition coil Is the rotating timer core still magnetized?

and repeat step 6.
YES NO
NO SPARK SPARK
Check sensing coil and Replace
Install the original ignition coil and check System is connections. Normal rotating
the wire from the distributor cap. If correct, correct. resistance of coil is 500 timer core
replace the ignition module. to 1500 ohms. and shaft.

CHART A–8 – IGNITION SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (2 of 2)

28
 HW
HY

DTC 14
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT
(HIGH TEMPERATURE INDICATED)
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor uses a thermistor to control the signal voltage to the ECM. The ECM
applies a reference voltage on circuit GQ to the sensor. When the engine is cold, the sensor (thermistor) resistance is
high. The ECM will then sense a high signal voltage.

As the engine warms up, the sensor resistance decreases and the voltage drops. The ECM ”reads” this voltage as a
temperature.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference on the “SCAN” tool will be that ambient temper-
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on ature.
the next page. • A DTC 14 will occur if circuit GQ has a short cir-
cuit to ground.
1. Checks to see if DTC 14 was set as result of current
failure or intermittent condition. • Use chart on to test the accuracy of the sensor.

• DTC 14 will set if: • If DTC 14 is not constant, see TROUBLE-

SHOOTING – POOR OPERATION.
Signal voltage indicates a coolant temperature
above 135°C (275°F) for 3 seconds. ECT SENSOR – TEMP. vs. RESISTANCE

°C °F Ohms
2. This test causes the conditions for a DTC 15. If the
ECM sees the open circuit (high voltage) and displays a 100 212 177
low temperature, the ECM and wiring are correct. 70 158 467
40 104 1459
Other Troubleshooting Checks:
20 68 3520
• After the engine is started, the temperature will
5 41 7280
increase steadily to about 80°C (180°F), then re-
main there when the thermostat opens. –10 14 16,180
–20 –4 28,680
• If the engine has been allowed to cool to an ambi-
ent temperature (overnight), the coolant reading –40 –40 100,700

29

DOES “SCAN” TOOL SHOW COOLANT
TEMPERATURE OF 135°C (275°F) OR
HIGHER?
When repairs are complete, clear the codes from
the ECM and check that the “Malfunction Indicator”
lamp does not indicate another problem.

• DISCONNECT SENSOR. DTC 14 IS NOT CONSTANT. IF NO OTHER DTC’S

• “SCAN” TOOL WILL SHOW ARE IN MEMORY, SEE “OTHER TROUBLE-
TEMPERATURE BELOW –30°C (–22°F). SHOOTING CHECKS” ON PREVIOUS PAGE.
DOES IT?

CIRCUIT GQ HAS A SHORT TO GROUND

OR
CIRCUIT GQ HAS A SHORT TO CIRCUIT HU/HY
OR
DAMAGED ECM.

DTC 14 – ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT

(HIGH TEMPERATURE INDICATED)

30
 HW

HY

DTC 15
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT
(LOW TEMPERATURE INDICATED)
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor uses a thermistor to control the signal voltage to the ECM. The ECM
applies a reference voltage on circuit GQ to the sensor. When the engine is cold, the sensor (thermistor) resistance is
high. The ECM will then sense a high signal voltage.
As the engine warms up, the sensor resistance decreases and the voltage drops. The ECM ”reads” this voltage as a
temperature.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference Other Troubleshooting Checks:
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on • After the engine is started, the temperature will
the next page. increase to approximately 80°C (180°F), then be-
1. Checks that DTC 15 was set by a current failure or a come stable when the thermostat opens.
condition that is not constant. • If the engine has been allowed to cool to an ambi-
• DTC 15 will set if: ent temperature (overnight), the coolant reading
on the “SCAN” tool will be that ambient temper-
Signal voltage indicates a coolant temperature
ature.
below –30°C (–22°F) after engine runs for 120
seconds. • A DTC 15 occurs if circuit GQ, GR, or HU is
open.
2. This test causes the conditions for a DTC 14. If the
ECM sees a circuit to ground (low voltage) and displays • If circuit GR is open, DTC 33 and DTC 15 can
a high temperature, the ECM and wiring are correct. both set.

3. This test will determine if there is a wiring problem or • Use the chart to test the accuracy of the sensor.
a damaged ECM. If circuit GR is open, there can also be • If DTC 15 is not constant, see TROUBLE-
a DTC 33 stored. SHOOTING – POOR OPERATION

31
 ECT SENSOR – TEMP. vs. RESISTANCE

°C °F Ohms
100 212 177
70 158 467
40 104 1459
20 68 3520
5 41 7280
–10 14 16,180
–20 –4 28,680
–40 –40 100,700

When repairs are complete, clear the codes

from the ECM and check that the “Malfunction
Indicator” lamp does not indicate another prob-
lem.

DTC 15 IS NOT CONSTANT. IF NO OTHER DTC’S

ARE IN MEMORY, SEE “OTHER TROUBLE-
SHOOTING CHECKS” ON PREVIOUS PAGE.

OPEN SENSOR GORUND CIRCUIT HU/HY,

DAMAGED CONNECTION AT J1–29,
OR DAMAGED ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE.

DTC 15 – ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT

(LOW TEMPERATURE INDICATED)

32
 DTC 21
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT (SIGNAL VOLTAGE HIGH)

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The Throttle Position (TP) Sensor makes a voltage signal that changes with the position of the throttle plate. The signal
voltage will vary from less than 1.25 volts at idle to approximately 4.5 volts at Wide Open Throttle (WOT).
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on
the next page.
1. Checks to see if DTC 21 was caused by current failure
or a condition that is not constant.
• DTC 21 will set if:
Signal voltage above 3.9 volts,
MAP reading below 65 kPa,
rpm less than 1750,
All these conditions for 5 seconds,
• OR
TP volts above approximately 4.8 volts at any
time.
2. This test causes the conditions for a DTC 22. If the
ECM sees the open circuit (low voltage) and displays a
low voltage, the ECM and circuit GU are correct.
3. This test will determine if there is a damaged TP Sen-
sor, damaged ECM or an open circuit HV.
Other Troubleshooting Checks:
• A ”SCAN” tool displays throttle position in volts.
Closed throttle voltage will be less than 1.25
volts. TP Sensor voltage will increase at a steady
rate as the throttle is move to Wide Open Throttle
(WOT).
• Check that the circuit does not have a short and a
voltage higher than 5.0 volts by testing it with a
voltmeter to ground.
• A DTC 21 will occur if circuit HV is open, or cir-
cuit GU has a short to voltage or circuit GT.
• If DTC 21 is not constant, see TROUBLE-
SHOOTING – POOR OPERATION.

33
 When repairs are complete, clear the codes from
the ECM and check that the “Malfunction Indicator”
lamp does not indicate another problem.

DTC 21 IS NOT CONSTANT. IF NO OTHER DTC‘S

ARE IN MEMORY, SEE OTHER TROUBLESHOOT-
ING CHECKS ON PREVIOUS PAGE.

CIRCUIT GU HAS A SHORT TO VOLTAGE

OR
ECM IS DAMAGED.

DTC 21 – THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT (SIGNAL VOLTAGE HIGH)

34
 DTC 22
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT (SIGNAL VOLTAGE LOW)

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The Throttle Position (TP) Sensor makes a voltage signal that changes with the position of the throttle plate. The signal
voltage will vary from less than 1.25 volts at idle to about 4.5 volts at Wide Open Throttle (WOT).
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference 3. This test will determine if there is a damaged TP Sen-
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on sor, damaged ECM or an open circuit HV.
the next page.
Other Troubleshooting Checks:
1. Checks to see if DTC 22 was caused by a current fail-
• A ”SCAN” tool displays throttle position in volts.
ure or a condition that is not constant.
Closed throttle voltage will be less than 1.25
• DTC 22 will set if: volts. TP Sensor voltage will increase at a steady
Signal voltage below .2 volts (200mV), rate as the throttle is move to Wide Open Throttle
Engine is running. (WOT).

2. This test causes the conditions for a DTC 21. If the • A DTC 22 will occur if circuit GT or GU is open
ECM see the jumper in the circuit (high voltage) and dis- or connected to ground.
plays over 4.0 volts, the ECM and circuits GU/GT are • If DTC 22 is not constant, see TROUBLE-
correct. SHOOTING – POOR OPERATION.

35
 When repairs are complete, clear the codes from
the ECM and check that the “Malfunction Indica-
tor” lamp does not indicate another problem.

DTC 22 IS NOT CONSTANT. IF NO OTHER DTC‘S

ARE IN MEMORY, SEE “OTHER TROUBLE–
SHOOTING CHECKS” ON PREVIOUS PAGE.

DTC 22 – THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT (SIGNAL VOLTAGE LOW)

36
 GE

KD

DTC 31
ENGINE GOVERNOR CIRCUIT

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The ECM sends a controlled signal pulse to the governor control module (circuit JR) to drive the governor motor.
Depending on the need of the engine for the governor, the module translates the ECM data into the correct value of
D.C. current (circuits JP and JQ) to the motor. This current causes the motor to limit engine speed by loosening the
throttle cable. The system is capable of reducing the throttle back to near idle position.
A DTC 31 will find a damaged ECM, governor module, motor, linkage, or wiring. If DTC 31 is set, the ECM will limit
engine RPM’s by momentarily reducing fuel (at a slightly higher RPM’s than governor calibration).
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference 2. Applying Battery + to the motor will not let the
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on throttle plate open.
the next page.
3. This test requires complete governor control to deter-
DTC 31 will set if: mine if the ECM or the governor system has a fault. The
• the ECM is commanding near 100% authority, throttle plate must not open during this test.

1. This check is to determine if the governor control Other Troubleshooting Checks:

module has a voltage supply so that it can operate.
• A ”SCAN” tool displays governor TPS. Watch
CAUTION this value as the engine rpm increases beyond the
DO NOT hold current to the motor for longer than governor limits. This test will allow you to see the
30 seconds, as the motor can be damaged. ECM’s contrtol try to limit engine speed.

37
 MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS A DTC 31 BEFORE When repairs are complete, clear the
USING THIS CHART. IF THERE IS NO DTC 31, codes from the ECM and check that the
SEE TROUBLESHOOTING – POOR OPERATION. “Malfunction Indicator” lamp does not in-
dicate another problem.

REPAIR OPEN GROUND CIRCUIT HNA/AK

WILL THE THROTTLE PLATE OPEN?

WILL THE THROTTLE PLATE OPEN?

DTC 22 – ENGINE GOVERNOR CIRCUIT

38
 HW

GR

HA

HY

TO ENGINE COOLANT
TEMPERATURE SENSOR

DTC 33
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR CIRCUIT
(SIGNAL VOLTAGE HIGH – LOW VACUUM)

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor responds to changes in manifold pressure (vacuum). The ECM re-
ceives this information as a signal voltage that will vary from about 1 to 1.5 volts at closed throttle idle, to 4 to 4.5 volts
at wide open throttle (low vacuum). If the MAP sensor fails, the ECM will use a fixed MAP value and use the Throttle
Position (TP) Sensor to control fuel delivery.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference Other Troubleshooting Checks:
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on
the next page. • With the ignition ON and the engine stopped, the
manifold pressure is equal to atmospheric pres-
1. This step will determine if DTC 33 is casued by a cur- sure and the signal voltage will be high. This in-
rent failure or a condition that is not constant. formation is used by the ECM as an indication of
• A DTC 33 will set if: vehicle altitude and is referred to as BARO.
Comparison of this BARO reading with a known
MAP signal is more than 90 kPa (low manifold
good vehicle with the same type sensor is a good
vacuum),
way to check accuracy of a sensor. Correct read-
TP Sensor less than 5%, ings will be within .4 volt of each other.
These conditions for a time longer than 10 se-
conds. • A DTC 33 occurs if either circuit HW/HY is
open, or if circuit GR has a short to voltage or to
2. This step causes the conditions for a DTC 34. If the circuit HA.
ECM sees the change, the ECM and circuits HA and
HY/HW are good. • If HW is open, DTC 33 and DTC 15 will set.

3. See SYSTEM TEST CHARTS for complete test of • If DTC 33 is not constant, see TROUBLE-
MAP sensor. SHOOTING – POOR OPERATION.

39
 DTC 33 IS NOT CONSTANT. IF NO OTHER
DTC‘S ARE IN MEMORY, SEE OTHER
TROUBLESHOOTING CHECKS ON PRE-
VIOUS PAGE.

• TEST SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT HW WITH CIRCUIT HA HAS A SHORT CIRCUIT TO

A TEST LIGHT TO BATTERY + VOLTAGE, SHORT CIRCUIT TO GR OR
• TEST LIGHT IS “ON”. THE ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE IS
DAMAGED.

CHECK FOR: CHECK FOR AN OPEN CIRCUIT IN

PLUGGED OR LEAKING SENSOR VACUUM HOSE CIRCUIT. HW/HY OR A DAMAGED
OR ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE.
DAMAGED MAP SENSOR.

When repairs are complete, clear the codes from the ECM and check that the “Malfunction
Indicator” lamp does not indicate another problem.

DTC 33 – MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR CIRCUIT

(SIGNAL VOLTAGE HIGH – LOW VACUUM)

40
 HW

GR

HA

HY

TO ENGINE COOLANT
TEMPERATURE SENSOR

DTC 34
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR CIRCUIT
(SIGNAL VOLTAGE LOW – HIGH VACUUM)

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor responds to changes in manifold pressure (vacuum). The ECM re-
ceives this information as a signal voltage that will change from approximately 1 to 1.5 volts at closed throttle idle, to 4
to 4.5 volts at wide open throttle (low vacuum). If the MAP sensor fails, the ECM will substitute a fixed MAP value and
use the Throttle Position (TP) Sensor to control fuel delivery.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference than 4.0 volts. This would indicate that the ECM and cir-
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on cuit HA are good.
the next page.
Other Troubleshooting Checks:
1. This step will determine if DTC 34 is the result of a
• With the ignition ON and the engine stopped, the
current failure or an intermittent condition.
manifold pressure is equal to atmospheric pres-
• A DTC 34 will set if: sure and the signal voltage will be high. This in-
MAP signal is less than 14 kPa (high manifold formation is used by the ECM as an indication of
vacuum), vehicle altitude and is referred to as BARO.
rpm less than 1200 or TP Sensor more than 15%. Comparison of this BARO reading with a known
good vehicle with the same type sensor is a good
AND way to check accuracy of a sensor. Correct read-
These conditions for a time longer than .2 se- ings will be within .4 volt of each other.
conds.
• A DTC 34 occurs if either circuit GR or HA is
2. This step causes the conditions for a DTC 34. If the open, or has a short circuit to ground.
ECM sees the change, the ECM and circuits HA and HY • If GR or HA has a short circuit to ground, both
are good. DTC 34 and DTC 22 can set.
3. The ”SCAN” tool does not display 12 volts. What is • If DTC 34 is not constant, see TROUBLE-
important is that the ECM sees that the voltage is more SHOOTING – POOR OPERATION.

41
 DTC 34 IS NOT CONSTANT. IF NO OTHER
DTC‘S ARE IN MEMORY, SEE OTHER
TROUBLESHOOTING CHECKS ON PRE-
VIOUS PAGE.
“SCAN” TOOL READS A VOLTAGE OF 4.7 VOLTS OR
MORE.
DOES IT?

HA

CHECK FOR: CHECK FOR:

5 VOLT REFERENCE CIRCUIT GR HAS A SHORT
CIRCUIT OR OPEN CIRCUIT TO GROUND
OR A DAMAGED ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE.
AN OPEN CIRCUIT IN CIRCUIT HA
OR
A SHORT CIRCUIT TO GROUND IN CIRCUIT HA
OR
A SHORT CIRCUIT TO SENSOR GROUND IN CIR-
CUIT HA
OR A DAMAGED ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE.

When repairs are complete, clear the codes from the ECM and check that the “Malfunction
Indicator” lamp does not indicate another problem.

DTC 34 – MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR CIRCUIT

(SIGNAL VOLTAGE LOW – HIGH VACUUM)
42
 ELECTRONIC
CONTROL MODULE
DISTRIBUTOR
SENSING COIL
IGNITION
•
DISTRIBUTOR MODULE
CAP
• •
GBRE

IGNITION
•
ABCD
COIL
HX
GY

GZ
GW ELECTRONIC
SPARK TIMING
(EST)
TACHOMETER
CONNECTION

DTC 42
ELECTRONIC SPARK TIMING (EST)
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
A DTC 42 is indicated if there is an open–circuit or a short–circuit in the electronic spark timing signal (EST) or the
by–pass circuit.

When the system is running on the ignition module, there is no voltage on the by–pass wire because the ignition mod-
ule sends the electronic spark timing signal (EST) to ground. If the ECM senses a voltage on the EST wire, a Code 42
will be set and the electronic control system will not go into the EST mode of operation.

When the engine is being started and approximately 400 rpm is sensed, by–pass voltage is applied. The EST will no
longer be grounded in the ignition module and the EST voltage will normally have a variation during operation.

If the by–pass wire is open or grounded, the ignition module will not change to EST mode and a Code 42 will be indi-
cated.

If the EST wire has a short–circuit to ground, there will not be an EST signal and a Code 42 will be indicated.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on
the next page.
1. A Code 42 is indicated if there is an open–circuit or a
short–circuit in the electronic spark timing signal (EST)
or the by–pass circuit. This test checks that the Code 42
is a real fault.
2. This test checks that the ground path through the igni-
tion module is correct. A short–circuit in circuit GW to
ground will also indicate less than 500 Ohms. A test for
this fault will be checked later.
3. When the TEST LIGHT voltage touches circuit GZ,
the module will correctly cause the ohmmeter to “over–
range” if the ohmmeter is in the 1000 to 2000 Ohms po-
sition.
When the selector switch on the ohmmeter is changed to
the 10 000 to 20 000 Ohms position, the ohmmeter will
correctly indicate more than 5000 Ohms. The important

43
part of this test is to check if the module makes the
switch.
4. If the module did not make the switch in step 3, this
step makes the following checks:
a. Circuit GW has a short–circuit to ground.
b. By–pass circuit GZ is open.
c. Ignition module has a fault or a bad connection.
44
5. This test checks that the Code 42 is from a fault in the
ECM and not a fault in circuit GW or circuit GZ.
Other Troubleshooting Checks:
The SCAN TOOL can not check for a Code 42 fault.
If the Code 42 is not constant or not regular and a Code
is indicated, see the section “TROUBLESHOOTING,
POOR PERFORMANCE”. Also see Chart A–9, “Igni-
tion System Troubleshooting”.
1 • Clear the codes from the ECM. When repairs are complete, clear the
codes from the ECM and check that the
• Start the engine and run the engine at idle speed for “Malfunction Indicator” lamp does not
at least one minute and check for a Code 42. indicate another problem.

Yes No

2 • Ignition switch to “OFF”. Disconnect the connectors Code 42 is not constant or not regular. If
at the ECM. additional codes are not stored, do the
“TROUBLESHOOTING, POOR
• Ignition switch “ON”. Set the selector switch on the
PERFORMANCE”.
ohmmeter to the 1000 to 2000 Ohms range. Check
the resistance between ground and circuit GW at
the connector for the ECM. The correct resistance
is less than 1500 Ohms.

Yes No

• Connect a TEST LIGHT between battery voltage Open circuit GW. Check for a bad
and circuit GZ at the connector for the ECM. connection or a fault in the ignition module.

Light “OFF” Light “ON”

3 • The ohmmeter is still connected between ground • Disconnect the 4–way connector at the
and circuit GW at the cable connector for the ECM. ignition module. Check circuit GZ at the
Connect a TEST LIGHT between battery voltage connector with the test light again.
and circuit GZ at the cable connector for the ECM.
When the TEST LIGHT probe touches the circuit Light “ON” Light “OFF”
GZ, The resistance will correctly make a switch from
Circuit GZ has a short–
less than 1500 Ohms to greater than 2000 Ohms. Ignition module
circuit to ground.
has a fault.
Resistance does NOT change Resistance changes

4 • The ohmmeter is still connected between ground 5 • Connect the ECM again.
and circuit GW at the cable connector for the ECM.
• Start the engine and run the engine
Disconnect the 4–way connector at the ignition
at idle speed for at least one minute
module. Check that the resistance goes high (open–
and check for a Code 42.
circuit) when the connector is disconnected.

Yes No Yes No

Open circuit GZ, bad Circuit GW has a short– ECM has a fault.
connection, or the circuit to ground.
ignition module has a Code 42 is not constant or not regular.
fault. If additional codes are not stored, do
the “TROUBLESHOOTING, POOR
PERFORMANCE”.

DTC 42 – ELECTRONIC SPARK TIMING

45
 DTC 51
ECM FAILURE

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The Electronic Control Module (ECM) does an internal check. This check, if it fails, will set a DTC 51. The internal
program calibration causes a DTC 51.
Other Troubleshooting Checks: • If DTC 51 is not constant, see TROUBLE-
• The ”SCAN” tool can not help find a DTC 51 SHOOTING – POOR OPERATION.
problem.

CHECK THAT ALL CONNECTIONS AT THE ECM ARE CORRECT.

CLEAR THE MEMORY AND CHECK AGAIN FOR DTC 51. IF DTC 51
APPEARS AGAIN, REPLACE THE ECM.

DTC 51 – ECM FAILURE

46
 TROUBLESHOOTING, POOR OPERATION
NOTE: Before using the following information, make
sure you have done the ON–BOARD DIAGNOSTIC
(OBD) System Check and found that:
1. The ECM and “Malfunction Indicator” Lamp are
operating correctly.
2. There are no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) or
there is a DTC but no “Malfunction Indicator”
Lamp.
GENERAL
Make sure you have done the “ON–BOARD DIAG-
NOSTIC SYSTEM CHECK” before this Troubleshoot-
ing section is used. Make sure the problem is correctly
described. Check the indicated items in this
Troubleshooting section under the described problem.
If the starter will crank the engine but the engine will not
start, see Troubleshooting Chart A–3.
Make A Careful Visual Check
This check is very important because some problems
can be corrected without doing a fault analysis. Check
the following items:
• ground connections for the ECM are clean and
tight.
• vacuum hoses for correct connections, damaged
hoses.
• vacuum leaks at the mount for the TBI and the in-
take manifold.
• condition of the ignition wires for cracks, bad
connections, and indications of electric arcs.
• wires and connectors for damage and bad con-
nections.
FAULT: Codes Or Performance That Is Not
Regular
NOTE: DO NOT use the Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) charts for problems that are not constant. The
fault must be present to locate the problem. If a fault is
not constant, use of DTC charts can cause the replace-
ment of good parts.
Definition: A problem that does not cause the “Mal-
function Indicator” Lamp to illuminate and a code is not
kept in the ECM.
Check:
• wires and connectors for damage and bad con-
nections.
• operation of the lift truck with a “SCAN” tool
connected. The “SCAN” tool will normally indi-
cate a trouble code.
• electrical noise cause by a relay, solenoid or
switch. This problem will occur when the faulty
component is operated.
• installation of lights, radios or other electrical
equipment by the operator that causes the prob-
lem.
• sensor wires are too close to the high voltage igni-
tion system wires. Wire for circuit HX from ECM
to Ignition Control Module (ICM) must be a good
connection.
• Ignition secondary has a short to ground.
• Circuit AZ “Malfunction Indicator” Lamp or cir-
cuit HS (diagnostic ”test” terminal) has a short
circuit to ground.
FAULT: Loss Of Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) Memory
To check, disconnect Throttle Position (TP) sensor and
run engine at idle speed until “Malfunction Indicator”
Lamp comes ”ON.” DTC 21 will be kept in memory
when the ignition is turned OFF for at least 10 seconds.
If not, the ECM is bad.
FAULT: Engine Quits While Driving
Check for a failure of the injector driver in ECM. If in-
jector driver fails, replace the ECM.
Additional Checks
If problem has not been found, see SYSTEM TEST
CHARTS.
47
FAULT: Engine Is Difficult To Start
Definition: The starter cranks the engine correctly, but
the engine is difficult to start, or the engine stops im-
mediately after it starts.
Check:
Make a “CAREFUL VISUAL CHECK” as described in
the earlier paragraphs. Make sure the operator is using
the correct starting procedure.
SENSORS
• Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor. Us-
ing a ”SCAN” tool, compare coolant temperature
with ambient temperature when engine is cold. If
coolant temperature reading is 5 degrees greater
than or less than ambient air temperature on a
cold engine, check resistance in the ECT sensor
circuit or sensor itself. Compare ECT resistance
value to the charts in DTC 14/15.
• MAP sensor.
• Throttle Position (TP) sensor for binding or a
high TP voltage with the throttle closed (will read
between .33 and 1.33 volts).
FUEL SYSTEM
• Fuel pump relay operation – pump must turn
”ON” for 2 seconds when ignition is turned ON.
Use CHART A–5.
• Fuel pressure, use CHART A–7.
• Dirty fuel.
• Injector driver circuit. Disconnect injector har-
ness connector at the injector. Connect 12 volt
test light between the harness terminals of the in-
jector connector and check the light while crank-
ing. If test light fails to blink at connector, it is a
bad injector circuit harness, connector or termi-
nal.
• Injector resistance. Measure resistance of injec-
tor. Nominal resistance of injector is 1.6 ohms or
more at 20°C (68°F). Resistance will increase at
higher temperatures.
• A bad check valve for the fuel pump will allow
the fuel in the lines to drain back to the tank after
engine is stopped. To check for this condition,
48
perform ”Fuel System Troubleshooting,”
CHART A–7.
IGNITION SYSTEM
• Correct ignition voltage output with spark tester.
• Spark plugs: dirty, cracks, wear, wrong gap,
burned electrodes.
• Moisture, dust, cracks, burns.
• Wires or cables are damaged or have a short.
• Connections at Ignition Module are loose.
• Bad ECM and ignition grounds.
• Engine misses or quits under under load or at idle.
See SYSTEM TEST CHARTS.
• Circuit GW (Electronic Spark Timing) for short
to ground.
• Idle Air Control (IAC) operation.
FAULT: Variation In Engine Power When
The Throttle Is Held Steady
Definition: Engine power variation under steady
throttle, feels like the vehicle speeds up and slows down
with no change in the accelerator pedal.
Check:
Make a “CAREFUL VISUAL CHECK” as described in
the earlier paragraphs.
• ECM grounds for being clean, tight and in their
proper location.
• Vacuum lines for restrictions or leaks.
• Alternator output voltage. Repair if less than 9 or
more than 16 volts.
• Governor cables.
SENSORS
• Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor. The
MAP Sensor must change quickly at different
throttle positions. Check the MAP Sensor vacu-
um line for restrictions. The ECM will respond to
any MAP signal and can change the amount of
fuel sent to the engine, causing operating prob-
lems. Also use the SYSTEM TEST CHARTS to
test the MAP sensor.
 IGNITION SYSTEM
• For correct ignition voltage output using spark
tester.
• Spark plugs. Remove spark plugs, check for wet
plugs, cracks, wear, wrong gap, burned or dirty
electrodes or insulators. Repair or replace as nec-
essary. Also, check spark plug cables.
FUEL SYSTEM
To check if the condition is caused by a rich or lean sys-
tem, test the vehicle under the same conditions that the
symptom occurs as described by the customer.
• Fuel pressure while condition exists. Use
CHART A–7.
• In–line fuel filter. Replace if dirty.
• Fuel injector.
FAULT: Decreased Engine Power
Definition: Engine delivers less than expected power.
Little or no increase in speed when accelerator pedal is
pushed down part way.
Check:
Make a “CAREFUL VISUAL CHECK” as described in
the earlier paragraphs.
• Remove air filter and check for dirt or other re-
strictions. Replace as necessary.
• ECM grounds for being clean, tight and in their
correct locations. See ECM wiring diagrams at
the end of this section.
• Alternator output voltage. Repair if less than 9 or
more than 16 volts.
• Exhaust system for restriction or damage.
ENGINE
• Engine valve timing and compression.
• Engine for correct or worn camshaft.
IGNITION SYSTEM
• For correct operation of Electronic Spark Timing
(EST).
• Secondary voltage.
FUEL SYSTEM
• Restriction in fuel filter.
• Dirty fuel.
• Fuel pressure, use CHART A–7.
• Low fuel pressure after a cold start or during ac-
celeration. If fuel pressure drops below 62 kPa (9
psi) there can be a bad fuel pump or a restriction
in the fuel system.
GOVERNOR SYSTEM
• Throttle adjustment.
• Governor motor.
FAULT: “Detonation”
Definition: The engine makes sharp metallic knocking
sounds that change when the throttle position is
changed. This condition is normally worse during accel-
eration. The air and fuel mixture is exploding in the cyl-
inder instead of burning evenly.
Check:
Make a “CAREFUL VISUAL CHECK” as described in
the earlier paragraphs.
If scan tool readings are normal (see facing page of
”On–Board Diagnostic [OBD] System Check”) and
there are no engine mechanical faults, fill fuel tank with
a known good grade of gasoline that has a minimum oc-
tane rating of 87 to 89 and check vehicle performance.
Check:
IGNITION SYSTEM
• Spark plugs for correct heat range.
• Ignition wires and cables for shorts or damaged
insulation.
ENGINE
• For oil in the combustion chamber. Valve oil seals
for leaking.
• Combustion chambers for excessive carbon build
up. Remove carbon with top engine cleaner using
the instructions on can.
• Combustion chamber pressure by doing a com-
pression test.
• Basic engine parts such as cam, head, pistons are
not correct.
COOLING SYSTEM
• Problems from engine running too hot: – Low en-
gine coolant level. – Loose water pump belt. –
49
 Restriction in air flow to radiator, or restriction in
water flow through radiator. Correct coolant
solution.
FUEL SYSTEM
To check if the condition is caused by a rich or lean sys-
tem, test the vehicle under the same conditions that the
symptom occurs as described by the customer.
• Fuel pressure while condition exists. Use
CHART A–7.
FAULT: Engine Momentarily Does Not
Increase Power When Throttle Changes
Definition: The engine momentarily does not increase
power when the throttle is opened further. The engine
can stop when the throttle is opened rapidly from idle.
Make a “CAREFUL VISUAL CHECK” as described in
the earlier paragraphs.
Check:
• Engine thermostat operates correctly and at the
correct heat range.
• Alternator output voltage. Repair if less than 9 or
more than 16 volts.
SENSORS
• Throttle Position (TP) sensor. Check TP sensor
for correct operation. Voltage will increase even-
ly as throttle is moved toward Wide Open
Throttle (WOT).
• MAP sensor output.
IGNITION SYSTEM
• Dirty spark plugs or damaged secondary cables.
• Ignition system connection, circuit HX.
FUEL SYSTEM
• Fuel pressure, use CHART A–7.
• Dirty fuel.
• Low fuel pressure after a cold start or during ac-
celeration. If fuel pressure drops below 62 kPa (9
psi), there can be a bad fuel pump or a restriction
in the fuel system.
GOVERNOR SYSTEM
• Throttle cables.
50
• Governor motor.
FAULT: One Or More Cylinders Do Not
Operate Correctly. The Engine Does Not
Idle Correctly.
Definition: The operation of one cylinder is not regular
and the problem increases when the engine load in-
creases. Problem normally does not occur above 1500
rpm. The engine has a rough idle or has a large variation
in idle speed.
Make a “CAREFUL VISUAL CHECK” as described in
the earlier paragraphs.
Check:
IGNITION SYSTEM
• Start engine, let engine become steady, then dis-
connect idle air control (IAC) motor. Remove
one spark plug cable at a time, using pliers with
insulation. Be sure to connect the cable that was
removed to ground while testing.
• If there is a decrease in rpm on all cylinders (equal
to within 50 rpm), go to FAULT for ”Rough Idle
or Engine Stalls During Idle”. Connect IAC
valve.
• If there is no decrease in rpm on one or more cyl-
inders, check for spark on the cylinder(s) using an
oscilloscope or spark tester. Check one spark
plug cable at a time. If no spark, see SYSTEM
TEST CHARTS. If there is a spark, remove spark
plug(s) in these cylinders and check for:
• Cracks in the insulator, wrong gap, burned elec-
trodes or wear.
• Spark plug cables by connecting ohmmeter to
ends of each cable in question. If meter reads over
30,000 ohms, replace cable(s).
ADDITIONAL CHECKS
For Electromagnetic Interference (EMI). An engine that
misses can be caused by EMI on the reference circuit.
EMI can be found by monitoring engine rpm with a
“SCAN” tool. A sudden increase in rpm with little
change in actual engine rpm change, indicates EMI is
present. If the problem exists, check routing of second-
ary wires, check the ground circuit.
Intake and exhaust manifold passage for restrictions.
 ENGINE
• Do a cylinder compression check. If compression
is low, repair as necessary.
• Remove rocker cover. Check for bent push rods,
worn rocker arms, broken valve springs, worn
camshaft lobes and valve timing. Repair as nec-
essary.
FUEL SYSTEM
• Dirty fuel filter, low fuel pressure. Use CHART
A–7.
• Dirty fuel.
FAULT: Rough Idle Or Engine Stalls
During Idle
Definition: Engine has a rough idle speed or has a large
variation in idle speed. The engine stops running during
idle.
Make a “CAREFUL VISUAL CHECK” as described in
the earlier paragraphs.
Checks:
• For vacuum leaks.
• ECM ground connections for being clean and.
See ECM wiring diagrams.
• For broken engine mounts.
• Alternator output voltage. Repair if less than 9 or
more than 16 volts.
IGNITION SYSTEM
• For correct ignition voltage output using spark
tester (ST–125) or equivalent.
• Spark plugs. Remove spark plugs, check for wet
or dirty plugs, cracks, wear, wrong gap, damaged
electrodes or insulators. Repair or replace as nec-
essary. Also, check spark plug wires.
• Spark plug wires by connecting ohmmeter to
ends of each cable in question. If meter reads over
30,000 ohms, replace cable(s).
ENGINE
• Do a cylinder compression check. See the engine
Service Manual.
• For correct camshaft or weak valve springs.
OTHER CHECKS
• MAP sensor output.
• Throttle linkage for smooth operation.
• IAC operation.
• PCV valve for correct operation.
FAULT: Fuel Usage Too High
Definition: Fuel use is higher than expected or has in-
creased during later operation.
Make a “CAREFUL VISUAL CHECK” as described in
the earlier paragraphs.
Check:
• Vacuum hoses for damage, restriction or correct
connections.
• Check operator’s methods of operation. Are tires
at the correct pressure? Are loads more than ca-
pacity?
• Check air filter for dirt or other restriction.
• Check for fuel leaks.
IGNITION SYSTEM
• Spark plugs. Remove spark plugs, check for wet
or dirty plugs, cracks, wear, wrong gap, damaged
electrodes or insulators. Repair or replace as nec-
essary. Also, check spark plug wires.
COOLING SYSTEM
• Engine coolant level.
• Engine thermostat for a fault (always open) or for
wrong heat range. See Engine Service Manual.
ENGINE
• Compression. See Engine Service Manual.
OTHER CHECKS
• For exhaust system restriction.
• Air intake system and crankcase for air leaks.
FAULT: “Dieseling”
Definition: Engine continues to run after ignition
switch is turned OFF but runs very roughly. If engine
runs smoothly, check ignition switch.
Make a “CAREFUL VISUAL CHECK” as described in
the earlier paragraphs.
51
Checks: • Spark plugs. Remove spark plugs, check for wet
• Fuel injector and TBI for fuel leaks. Use CHART or dirty plugs, cracks, wear, wrong gap, damaged
A–7. electrodes or insulators. Repair or replace as nec-
essary. Also, check spark plug wires.
FAULT: “Backfire”
• Spark plug wires for damage and correct installa-
Definition: Fuel explodes in intake manifold, or in ex- tion. Inspect Ignition Coil assembly
haust system, making loud noise. • Do fuel system tests. Use CHART A–7.
Make a “CAREFUL VISUAL CHECK” as described in
the earlier paragraphs. ENGINE

Check: • Compression – Look for valves that stick or leak.

IGNITION SYSTEM • Valve timing. See Engine Service Manual.

• Correct output from ignition coil with spark tes- • Intake and exhaust manifold passages for restric-
ter. tions.

52
 SYSTEM TEST CHARTS
GENERAL TABLE 3. ECT SENSOR –
TEMPERATURE vs. RESISTANCE
This part of the section has the following:
°C °F Ohms
• Components tests
100 212 177
• Circuit tests
90 194 214
• Function tests and adjustments
80 176 332
For location of components, complete engine electronic 70 158 467
wiring diagrams, and ECM wiring harness connector 60 140 667
terminal end views, see illustrations at the end of this
50 122 973
section.
45 113 1188
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT) 40 104 1459
SENSOR TEST 35 95 1802
30 86 2238
The ECT, using the following procedure, can be tested at
different temperatures. A volt/ohmmeter, a thermome- 25 77 2796
ter, engine coolant, and something to heat the coolant 20 68 3520
will be needed for the test. 15 59 4450
• Heat the coolant to one of the temperatures 10 50 5670
shown on the chart.
5 41 7280
• Position the ECT sensor, sensing end, into the 0 32 9420
heated coolant.
–5 23 12,300
• Wait about 60 seconds to allow the coolant to heat –10 14 16,180
the sensor.
–15 5 21,450
• Test the sensor resistance and compare the read-
–20 –4 28,680
ing to those in TABLE 3.
–30 –22 52,700
• Sensors with a reading within 10% of the specifi-
cations can be used. –40 –40 100,700

53
THROTTLE POSITION (TP) SENSOR
CHECK
Using a ”SCAN” tool, watch the TP Sensor % and volt-
age. The reading will increase evenly as the throttle
plate is opened. See FIGURE 5. There must be no read-
ing that is lower than the previous reading as the throttle
plate is moved more open. A reading that went lower or
higher then lower as the plate is opened, indicates a
damaged sensor that must be replaced. See FIGURE 6.
FIGURE 5. GOOD TP SENSOR READING
Poor Throttle Position Voltage Reading
FIGURE 6. DAMAGED TP SENSOR READING
MINIMUM IDLE SPEED
• Minimum idle speed (Minimum Air Setting) set
only when installing a replacement throttle body.
• The idle stop screw is used to hold the minimum
idle speed of the engine. On original equipment
54
throttle bodies, it is adjusted at the factory, then
covered with a plug.
NOTE: The minimum idle speed adjustment is impor-
tant for correct system operation. A minimum idle speed
that is too high can cause the IAC valve pintle to
constantly touch the bottom of its seat and cause valve
failure. If the minimum idle speed is too low, the vehicle
can be hard to start in cold weather or can cause a stall
during idle.
Adjustment (See FIGURE 7.)
1. Put a block on both sides of a drive tires and apply the
parking brake.
2. Put the transmission in Neutral. Start and run the en-
gine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
3. Turn ignition key OFF.
4. Connect a ”SCAN” tool to the DLC.
5. Turn ignition key to the ON position.
6. Select ”Field Service Mode” on the ”SCAN” tool.
This will cause the IAC valve pintle to extend, closing
the air passage in the throttle body. Wait 45 seconds, dis-
connect the IAC valve connector, then exit the ”Field
Service Mode.”
7. Start and run the engine. It can be necessary to hold
the throttle open slightly to run the engine.
8. Select ”Engine RPM” on the ”SCAN” tool, and read
engine speed.
IMPORTANT
Engine must be at normal operating temperature
All accessories must be ”OFF.”
Make sure throttle and governor cables do not hold the
throttle open.
Correct idle speed is 800 ± 25 rpm (for engines that have
more than 10 hours operating time.)
9. Remove plug as shown in FIGURE 7. Adjust mini-
mum idle speed if necessary.
10. Turn ignition switch OFF.
11. Connect IAC valve electrical connector.
12. Reset IAC valve pintle position:
a. Start and run engine over 2000 rpm.
1. PLUG
b. Select ”Field Service Mode.” 2. IDLE STOP
SCREW 2
c. Run engine at 2000 rpm for approximately 10 se-
conds.
d. Exit ”Field Service Mode.”
e. Allow engine to return to idle.
f. Turn ignition switch OFF.
g. Wait 10 seconds, start engine, let idle. 1

h. Check for correct idle. (IAC at 5–40 Counts.)

i. Disconnect ”SCAN” tool.
j. Remove blocks from drive tires FIGURE 7. IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT

55
 IAC CONNECTOR ELECTRONIC
AIR
CONTROL
FLOW
MODULE
D C B A

HG J2–28 IAC COIL “A” HI

D
JT J2–13 IAC COIL “A” LO
C
HJ J2–14 IAC COIL “B” HI
B
A HK J2–29 IAC COIL “B” LO

THROTTLE
BODY

CHART C–1
IDLE AIR CONTROL (IAC) SYSTEM CHECK
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The ECM controls engine idle speed with the IAC valve. To increase idle speed, the ECM retracts the IAC valve pintle
away from its seat, allowing more air to bypass the throttle bore. To decrease idle speed, the IAC valve pintle extends
towards its seat, reducing by–pass air flow. A “SCAN” tool will read the ECM commands to the IAC valve in counts.
The higher the counts indicate more air bypass (higher idle). The lower the counts indicate less air is allowed to bypass
(lower idle).
Other Troubleshooting Checks: • System Too Lean (High Air/Fuel Ratio) – The
idle speed can be too high or too low. Engine
• A slow, unstable, or fast idle speed can be caused
speed can vary up and down and disconnecting
by a problem other than the IAC system. Out of
the IAC valve does not help. Check for low fuel
control range IAC “SCAN” tool counts will be
pressure, water in the fuel or a dirty injector.
above 50 if idle is too low, and zero counts if idle
is too high. Make the following checks to repair a • System Too Rich (Low Air/Fuel Ratio) – The idle
problem that is not in the IAC system: speed will be too low. “SCAN” tool IAC counts
will usually be above 50. System is rich and can
• Vacuum Leak (High Idle) – If idle is too high, cause black smoke in exhaust. Check for high
stop the engine. Fully extend (low) IAC with tes- fuel pressure or an injector that leaks or sticks.
ter. Start engine. If idle speed is above 800 RPM,
fix vacuum leak including PCV system. Also
• Throttle Body – Remove IAC valve and inspect
bore for dirt.
check for smooth movement of the throttle plate
or linkage. • IAC Valve Electrical Connections – Check IAC
valve connections for correct contact.
• PCV Valve – If a high idle condition exists (800 to
1000 RPM), check for vacuum leaks and correct • See TROUBLESHOOTING – POOR OPERA-
PCV valve operation. All throttle bodies are pre- TION.
set at the factory and do not need adjustment. A • If problems are fixed by disconnecting the IAC,
missing PCV valve or grommet or a valve that carefully check connections, IAC valve terminal
sticks can cause this condition. resistance, or replace IAC.

56
 • INSTALL “SCAN” TOOL.
• RUN ENGINE AT NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE
APPLY PARKING BRAKE.
• DISCONNECT THE IAC MOTOR CONNECTOR.
TEST THE IAC COIL RESISTANCE.
• CORRECT RESISTANCE IS 40 TO 80 OHMS BETWEEN
IAC TERMINALS “A” TO “B” AND “C” TO “D”.
IS IT?

REPLACE IAC
VALVE AND
TEST AGAIN.

IAC CIRCUIT IS GOOD. SEE REPLACE IAC

OTHER TROUBLESHOOTING VALVE AND
CHECKS ON PREVIOUS PAGE. TEST AGAIN.

CHART C–1 – IDLE AIR CONTROL (IAC) SYSTEM CHECK

57
 GR

HA

HW HY

CHART C–2
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR OUTPUT TEST

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor measures the changes in the intake manifold pressure that come from
engine load (intake manifold vacuum) and rpm changes. The MAP sensor converts these changes into a voltage out-
put. The ECM sends a 5 volts reference voltage to the MAP sensor. As the manifold pressure changes, the output volt-
age of the sensor also changes. By monitoring the sensor output voltage, the ECM knows the manifold pressure. A
lower pressure (low voltage) output voltage will be about 1 to 2 volts at idle. While higher pressure (high voltage)
output voltage will be about 4 to 4.8 at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). The MAP sensor is also used, under certain condi-
tions, to measure barometric pressure, allowing the ECM to make adjustments for altitude changes. The ECM uses the
MAP sensor to control fuel delivery and ignition timing.
Test Description: The number(s) below are a reference the change in voltage must be quick. A slow voltage
to number(s) in circles in the troubleshooting chart on change indicates a bad sensor.
the next page.
3. Check vacuum source to sensor for leaking or restric-
tion. Be sure that no other vacuum devices are con-
1. When comparing “SCAN” readings to a known good nected to the MAP vacuum source.
vehicle, it is important to compare vehicles that use a
MAP sensor having the same color insert and the same NOTE: Make sure electrical connector remains secure-
number. See illustrations on the following page. ly fastened.
4. Remove sensor from the intake manifold and twist
2. Apply 34 kPa (10” Hg) vacuum to the MAP sensor to sensor (by hand only) to check for intermittent connec-
cause a voltage readings of 1.5 to 2.1 volts less than the tion. Output changes greater than .10 volt indicate a bad
voltage in Step 1. When applying vacuum to the sensor, sensor or connection. If good, replace sensor.

58
 INSERT

CHART C–2 – MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR OUTPUT TEST

59
CHECK THE PCV SYSTEM With this system, fumes are sent into the air filter and
into the engine intake manifold.
CAUTION
An engine that is operated without any crankcase
ventilation can be damaged. Therefore, it is impor-
tant to replace the PCV valve at intervals shown in
the PERIODIC MAINTENANCE section.
A restriction in the PCV valve or hose can cause:
• Rough idle, slow idle speed, oil leaks or oil in the
air cleaner.
1
A PCV valve or hose that leaks can cause:
• Rough idle, high idle speed or engine stalls.
1. CHECK VALVE NEEDLE
If the engine has a rough idle, check for a restriction in
the PCV valve or hose. Replace parts as described in
FIGURE 8. PCV VALVE
REPAIRS.

60
 KD
CHECK THE GOVERNOR SYSTEM
GOVERNOR SYSTEM NOT OPERATING
CORRECTLY
A governor system that does not operate correctly can
cause any of the following:
Engine rpm more than limit of governor
Engine power variation (surge)
Engine backfire
Low engine power
No acceleration (low engine rpm)
Check The Function Of Governor System
Normal testing for governor will include the following:
1. Start engine, keep transmission in Neutral.
2. Accelerate the engine to maximum throttle.
3. Observe the engine speed.
4. Did the engine accelerate smoothly, and to the
normal limit?
If the system appears to function incorrectly, compare
RPM readings from a ”SCAN” tool with readings from
a secondary tachometer attached to a spark plug wire.
They must be very close or the same.
If they are different, check for EMI. Items like spark
plug wires too close to the distributor primary wires, or
charging system wires.
If the readings are close or the same, see chart for DTC
31 for more testing. (It is possible that the system will
not set DTC 31. In this case the DTC 31 chart can be
used.)
61
 REPAIRS
FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS
General
NOTE: The following is general information to be used
when working on the fuel system:
• Always use new O–rings on the fuel line fittings.
• All steel tubing on the fuel system must be re-
placed with original equipment parts.
• All fuel hoses must be replaced with original
equipment parts.
• Do not replace any steel fuel tubing with fuel
hose. Do not replace any steel fuel tubing with
copper or aluminum tubing.
• Some of the parts of the TBI can be cleaned in a
cleaner such as Hyster Carburetor Cleaner or its
equivalent. DO NOT clean the following parts:
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), IAC valve, fuel
injectors, cover for fuel meter body, ball bearings
and the governor assembly
CAUTION
To reduce the risk of fire and personal injury, relieve
the fuel system pressure before servicing fuel system
components.
After relieving system pressure, a small amount of fuel
may be released when servicing fuel lines or connec-
tions. To reduce the chance of personal injury, cover fuel
line fittings with a shop towel before disconnecting, to
catch any fuel that may leak out. Place the towel in an
approved container when disconnect is completed.
62
Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure
1. Disconnect negative battery terminal to avoid fuel
leakage if an accidental attempt is made to start the en-
gine.
2. Loosen fuel filler cap to relieve tank vapor pressure.
3. The internal relief in the TBI unit relieves fuel pump
pressure when the engine is “OFF”. Therefore, no addi-
tional pressure relief procedure is required.
Fuel Pump Replacement (See FIGURE 9.)
WARNING
To reduce the risk of fire and personal injury, do not
operate the fuel pump outside of the fuel tank. The
pump can make sparks and cause an explosion.
1. Disconnect the negative cable at the battery.
2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to release pressure in the fuel
tank.
3. Disconnect the fuel lines at the access plate on the fuel
tank. Disconnect the wiring harness from the TBI.
4. Remove the capscrews that hold the access plate to the
fuel tank. Remove the access plate, fuel pump and send-
ing unit, if attached.
5. Inspect the fittings and fuel lines that are inside the
fuel tank for damage. Inspect the screen for damage.
6. Install the fuel pump and fittings on the access plate.
Install the float assembly.
7. Use a new seal ring and install the access plate on the
tank. Tighten the capscrews for the access plate.
8. Connect the fuel lines to the fittings. Connect the wire
connectors.
 unit or the parts of the TBI can be replaced while the TBI
11 is installed on the engine. See the PARTS MANUAL
1 for repair kits for the components of the TBI. To make
sure the replacement part has the correct part number,
See FIGURE 10. Replacement of the individual compo-
nents is described after the following procedures.
2
7 1. Disconnect the negative cable at the battery.
4
2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to release pressure in the fuel
8
tank.
9 3. Disconnect and remove the parts that connect the TBI
3
to the air filter.
5
10 4. Disconnect the wires to the IAC valve, TPS, governor
motor and the fuel injector. Remove the wiring harness
grommet for the fuel injector.
6

12 11

13

12

14

15
1
1. WIRING HARNESS
2. COVER 2
3. SHUT–OFF VALVE 3
1. DAY OF YEAR
4. OUTLET FUEL LINE 2. YEAR 4
5. ACCESS PLATE 3. ASSEMBLY PLANT CODE 5
6. SEAL RING 4. SHIFT IDENTIFICATION
7. CAPSCREW 5. SOURCE CODE
8. WASHER
9. O–RING 12. CLAMP (2) FIGURE 10. TBI IDENTIFICATION
10. SENDING UNIT (NOT 13. FLEXIBLE
ON ALL UNITS) COUPLING
11. RETURN FUEL LINE 14. FUEL PUMP
5. Disconnect the throttle cable at the throttle crank.
AND FUEL PUMP AND MOTOR
SUPPORT 15. SCREEN
6. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the MAP sensor.

FIGURE 9. FUEL PUMP ARRANGEMENT
TBI Unit, Removal
NOTE: The TBI is made of many separate components.
See FIGURE 11. The TBI can be replaced as a complete
7. Disconnect the fuel pressure and fuel return lines at
the TBI. Hold the fittings in the TBI to keep them from
turning when the fuel lines are disconnected.
8. Remove the fasteners that hold the TBI to the man-
ifold. Remove the TBI. Cover the opening in the man-
ifold to prevent dirt from entering the engine.

63
TBI Unit, Cleaning and Inspection
See the cleaning instructions in the NOTES under “Gen-
eral” at the beginning of this REPAIR section. Clean the
gasket from the manifold and the TBI. Be careful to pre-
vent damage the machined surfaces. Check the ma-
chined surfaces for damage. Check the manifold for
loose parts.
TBI Unit, Installation
1. Use a new gasket and install the TBI on the manifold.
Tighten the fasteners for the TBI to 25 N.m (18 lbf ft).
2. Install the fuel line fitting and gasket on the supply
port. Tighten the fuel line fitting to 41 N.m (30 lbf ft).
Use new O–rings and washers on the fuel lines. Connect
the fuel pressure and fuel return lines. Tighten the fuel
line nuts to 27 N.m (20 lbf ft).
3. Connect the vacuum hose for the MAP sensor.
4. Connect the throttle cable at the throttle cam. Check
the adjustment of the throttle cables as described in the
procedures for the GOVERNOR SYSTEM.
5. Install the wiring harness grommet for the fuel injec-
tor. Connect the wires to the IAC valve, TPS and the fuel
injector.
6. Connect the negative cable at the battery.
7. Turn the key switch to “ON” (do not start the engine)
and check for fuel leaks.
8. Use a new gasket and connect the air filter to the TBI.
9. Set the position of the pintle valve of the IAC as fol-
lows:
a. Depress the throttle pedal a small amount.
b. Start and run the engine for three seconds.
c. Turn the key switch to OFF for ten seconds.

1. FUEL INJECTOR
2. FUEL METER BODY 1
3. INLET FUEL FITTING
4. FUEL RETURN PORT
5. THROTTLE BODY
6. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
7. IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE
8. FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR
2

5
7

FIGURE 11. THROTTLE BODY INJECTION (TBI) UNIT

64
 d. Start the engine and check for correct idle opera- 4. Install the wiring harness grommet for the fuel injec-
tion. tors. Connect the wires at the fuel injector.

5. Connect the negative cable at the battery. Turn the key

Fuel Meter Body, Removal
switch to ON (do not start the engine) and check for fuel
(See FIGURE 10.)
leaks.

1. Disconnect the negative cable at the battery. 6. Use a new gasket and connect the air filter to the TBI.

2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to release pressure in the fuel

Fuel Injector, Removal (See FIGURE 13.)
tank.
NOTE: The fuel injector must be replaced as a complete
3. Disconnect and remove the parts that connect the air
unit. To make sure the replacement part has the correct
filter to the TBI.
part number, see FIGURE 12.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector at the fuel injec-
tor. Remove the grommet and wires from the body.
1
5. Disconnect the fuel lines at the fuel meter body. Hold 3
the fittings in the fuel meter body to keep them from
4 6
turning when the fuel lines are disconnected.

6. Remove the fuel line fitting from the inlet port in the 5
fuel meter body.
2
7. Remove the screws that hold the fuel meter body to
1. FUEL INJECTOR (TOP VIEW)
the throttle body. Remove the fasteners that hold the TBI 2. PART NUMBER
to the manifold. Remove the fuel meter body and gas- 3. MONTH, 1–9 (JAN.–SEPT.)
ket. O, N, D (OCT., NOV., DEC.)
4. DAY
5. YEAR
8. Clean the gasket surfaces on the fuel meter body and
6. BUILD DATE CODE
throttle body. 7. • = INDICATES HIGH DYNAMIC RANGE

FIGURE 12. FUEL INJECTOR IDENTIFICATION

Fuel Meter Body, Installation
(See FIGURE 10.)
1. Use a new gasket and install the fuel meter body on
the throttle body.
2. Use a thread locking adhesive (Loctite 262) on the
screws for the fuel meter body. Install the screws and
tighten them to 3.5 N.m (31 lbf in). Tighten the fasteners
for the TBI to 25 N.m (18 lbf ft).
3. Use a new gasket and install the fuel line fitting in the
inlet port. Tighten the fitting to 41 N.m (30 lbf ft).
1. Disconnect the negative cable at the battery.
2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to release pressure in the fuel
tank.
3. Disconnect and remove the parts that connect the air
filter to the TBI.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector at the fuel injec-
tor.
5. Remove the screw and retainer for the fuel injector.

4. Use new O–rings and washers on the fuel lines. Con- 6. To remove the fuel injector, use a screwdriver as
nect the fuel pressure and fuel return lines.Tighten fuel shown in FIGURE 13. Remove and discard the O–rings
line fittings to 27 N.m (20 lbf ft). on the fuel injector.

65
 4. Connect the negative cable at the battery. Turn the key
1 2 switch to “ON” (do not start the engine) and check for
fuel leaks.
5. Use a new gasket and connect the air filter to the TBI.
3
Pressure Regulator, Removal
4
(See FIGURE 15.)
1. FUEL INJECTOR 3. FULCRUM
2. SCREWDRIVER 4. FUEL METER BODY 1. Disconnect the negative cable at the battery.

FIGURE 13. REMOVE THE FUEL INJECTOR

5
3 4
Fuel Injector, Installation
(See FIGURE 14.) 2

1. Lubricate the new O–rings with engine oil. Install the

lower (small) O–ring so that it is against the fuel filter.
Install the upper (large) O–ring on the fuel injector.
1
2. Install the fuel injector into the bore of the fuel meter 6
body. Push the fuel injector until it is against its seat.
1. COVER 4. SPRING
Turn the fuel injector so that the electrical connector is 2. SCREW 5. DIAPHRAGM
toward the notch. 3. SPRING SEAT 6. FUEL METER BODY

3. Use a thread locking adhesive on the screw for the re- FIGURE 15. PRESSURE REGULATOR
tainer. Install the retainer and the screw. Tighten the 2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to release pressure in the fuel
screws to 3.0 N.m (27 lbf in). tank.
3. Disconnect and remove the parts that connect the air
2 filter to the TBI.
1
4. Hold the pressure regulator to compress the spring.
3
Remove the screws that hold the pressure regulator to
6
the fuel meter body. Remove the pressure regulator as-
sembly. Remove the diaphragm.
5
Pressure Regulator, Inspection
4
Inspect the valve seat in the fuel meter body for damage.
Replace the fuel meter body if there is any damage.

Pressure Regulator, Installation

(See FIGURE 15.)

1. Install a new diaphragm. Make sure the diaphragm

fits in the groove of the fuel meter body.
1. FUEL INJECTOR 4. FUEL METER BODY
2. SCREW 5. LOWER O–RING 2. Install the seat for the spring and the spring in the cov-
3. RETAINER 6. UPPER O–RING er, then install the cover. Use a thread locking adhesive
(Loctite 262) on the screws for the cover. Install the
FIGURE 14. INSTALL THE FUEL INJECTOR screws and tighten them to 2.4 N.m (21 lbf in).
66
3. Connect the negative cable at the battery. Turn the key
switch to ON (do not start the engine) and check for fuel
leaks.
4. Use a new gasket and connect the air filter to the TBI.
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), Removal
(See FIGURE 16.)
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve, Removal
(See FIGURE 17.)
CAUTION
If the IAC valve has been in service, DO NOT push or
pull on the pintle. Moving the pintle can damage the
internal parts of the IAC valve.
1. Disconnect and remove the parts that connect the TBI
to the air filter.

1. Disconnect and remove the parts that connect the TBI
to the air filter.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the TPS.
3. Remove the screws for the TPS and remove the TPS.
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), Installation
(See FIGURE 16.)
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the IAC
valve.
3. Remove the screws for the IAC valve and the valve.
Cleaning and Inspection
See the cleaning instructions in the NOTES under “Gen-
eral” at the beginning of REPAIRS. Use a carburetor
cleaner to clean the carbon from the valve seat for the
pintle, the air passage and the surface for the O–ring. In-
spect the O–ring for damage.

1. With the throttle valve closed, install the TPS on the NOTE: If the IAC valve must be replaced, make sure
throttle shaft. Rotate the TPS to align the screw holes. the replacement part has the correct part number. The
Use a thread locking adhesive (Loctite 262) on the shape and diameter of the pintle is made for this applica-
screws. Install the screws and tighten them to 2.0 N.m tion.
(18 lbf in).
1
A
2. Connect the electrical connector to the TPS. Use a
new gasket and connect the air filter to the TBI.

1
4 3 2
A = DISTANCE OF PINTLE EXTENSION
B = DIAMETER OF PINTLE
1. SCREW 3. O–RING
2. IAC VALVE BODY 4. PINTLE
FIGURE 17. IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE
2
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve, Installation
(See FIGURE 17.)
4
NOTE: When installing a new IAC valve, measure the
1. THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY
2. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR distance between the tip of the pintle and the flange, di-
3. SCREW 3 mension A in FIGURE 17. If the distance is more than
4. THROTTLE SHAFT 28 mm (1.1 in), use your finger to slowly retract the
FIGURE 16. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR pintle. This procedure will not damage a NEW IAC
(TPS) valve. DO NOT do this procedure if the IAC valve has
been in service.

67
1. Lubricate the O–ring for the IAC valve with engine
oil and install it on the valve.
2. Install the IAC valve on the throttle body. Tighten the
screws to 3.0 N.m (27 lbf in).
3. Connect the electrical connector to the IAC valve.
4. Use a new gasket and connect the air filter to the TBI.
5. Do the following procedure to reset the position of the
pintle:
a. Depress the throttle pedal a small amount.
b. Start and run the engine for five seconds.
c. Turn the key switch to OFF for ten seconds.
d. Start the engine and check for correct idle opera-
tion.
Throttle Body, Removal and Disassembly
(See FIGURE 11.)
1. Disconnect the negative cable at the battery.
2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to release pressure in the fuel
tank.
3. Remove the throttle body as described in “TBI Unit,
Removal”.
4. Remove the fuel meter body.
5. Remove the other components from the throttle body
as described in the Removal procedures for those parts.
Throttle Body, Inspection
Inspect the surfaces of the throttle body for damage.
Check that all air passages are clean.
68
Throttle Body, Assembly and Installation
(See FIGURE 11.)
1. Assemble the components on the throttle body as de-
scribed in the Assembly procedures for those parts.
2. Use a new gasket and install the fuel meter body on
the throttle body.
3. Use a thread locking adhesive (Loctite 262) on the
threads for the fuel body. Install the screws and tighten
them to 3.5 N.m (31 lbf in).
4. Use a new gasket and install the TBI on the manifold.
Tighten the fasteners for the TBI to 22 N.m (16 lbf ft).
5. Use new O–rings and washers on the fuel lines. Con-
nect the fuel pressure and fuel return lines. Hold the fit-
tings in the TBI to keep them from turning. Tighten the
fuel line nuts to 27 N.m (20 lbf ft).
6. Conect the vacuum hose for the MAP sensor.
7. Connect the electrical connectors at the fuel injector,
throttle position sensor and the idle air control valve.
8. Connect the throttle cable at the throttle cam. Check
the adjustment of the throttle cables as described in the
procedures for the GOVERNOR SYSTEM.
9. Connect the negative cable at the battery. Turn the key
switch to ON (do not start the engine) and check for fuel
leaks.
10. Use a new gasket and connect the air filter to the TBI.
11. Set the position of the pintle valve of the IAC as fol-
lows:
a. Depress the throttle pedal a small amount.
b. Start and run the engine for three seconds.
c. Turn the key switch to OFF for ten seconds.
d. Start the engine and check for correct idle opera-
tion.
 TOP VIEW 2
1

11 3

10

4
5

12909
8

7
6

1. THROTTLE BODY INJECTION (TBI) UNIT 7. IGNITION COIL

2. FUEL INJECTOR FUSE 8. DIAGNOSTIC LINK CONNECTOR (DLC)
3. IGNITION FUSE 9. FUEL PUMP FUSE
4. ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT) 10. ECM FUSE
SENSOR 11. MAP SENSOR
5. DISTRIBUTOR
6. GOVERNOR MOTOR

FIGURE 18. ARRANGEMENT OF COMPONENTS FOR ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROL (1 of 2)

69
 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
SIDE VIEW 1
5 2. Loosen the panel under instrument panel (pull panel
rearward).

4 3. Disconnect the electrical connector. Remove the

mounting screws and remove the module.
4. Inspect the electrical connectors and terminals for
damage.
5. Install the governor module with the screws. Connect
the connector at the module.
6. Install the panel on the cowl.
7. Connect the negative battery cable.

Governor Motor Replacement

(See FIGURE 18.)
2
3 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
1. ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE 2. Remove the cover from governor assembly.
(ECT) SENSOR
2. DISTRIBUTOR 3. Disconnect throttle cables at the TBI and the throttle
3. OIL PRESSURE/FUEL PUMP SWITCH
pedal. Disconnect the cables at the governor.
4. IGNITION COIL
5. FUEL PUMP RELAY 4. Remove the governor assembly from the bracket.
FIGURE 18. COMPONENTS FOR ELECTRONIC
5. Install the governor assembly on the bracket.
ENGINE CONTROL (2 OF 2)
6. Install and adjust the throttle cables as described in the
Oil Pressure Switch, Replacement prodedures for Throttle Cables.
(See FIGURE 18.)
7. Connect the electrical connector at the governor.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect the 8. Connect the ngative battery cable.
connector at the oil pressure switch.

2. Remove the oil pressure switch. Throttle Cables,

3. Inspect the electrical connectors and terminals for
damage.
4. Install the oil pressure switch in the engine.
5. Connect the connector at the oil pressure switch. Con-
nect the negative battery cable.
6. Run engine and check for oil leaks.
GOVERNOR SYSTEM
Governor Module Replacement
NOTE: The governor module is installed on the inside
of the cowl, under the plastic panel.
70
Installation and Adjustment
1. Connect the throttle cables to the governor actuator as
shown in FIGURE 19. (Only the two pulleys closest to
the governor motor are used.) Install the lock washers
and flat washers on the cable housings. Slide each cable
housing to the end of the slot. Each cable will align with
a groove in a pulley. The pulley closest to the governor
motor is for the cable that goes to the TBI unit. Install the
cable ends into the pulley, making sure the cables fit in
the grooves. Check for free operation of the cables on
the pulleys. Tighten the nuts on the cable housings to 18
to 20 N.m (12 to 15 lbf ft).
2. Connect the cable to the pedal as shown in
FIGURE 20.
 1

1 1. PEDAL PAD
2. PEDAL FRAME
3. PEDAL RETURN
STOP

GAS
2
2 3 4

2
GAS

3 5 GAS
5 4
GAS
1. GOVERNOR MOTOR 4. LINK
2. COVER 5. CAPSCREW
3. CABLE TO TBI UNIT 6. CRANK
4. ACTUATOR ASSEMBLY
5. CABLE TO ACCELERATOR PEDAL
FIGURE 20. MONOTROL PEDAL
FIGURE 19. THROTTLE CABLES
6. Adjust the pedal return stop (see FIGURE 20.) so that
there is no tension on the throttle cable at the idle posi-
tion. When the pedal return stop is in the correct posi-
tion, tighten the capscrew that holds the stop to the
3. Push on the throttle pedal and hold it against the floor bracket.
plate. Adjust the cable housing at the pedal bracket until
the pulleys in the governor actuator are rotated fully CHECK THE MONOTROL PEDAL
clockwise against the internal stop. (As seen from the (See FIGURE 20.)
front of the lift truck.) Adjust the cable housing only Slowly move the Monotrol pedal pad from Forward to
enough so that the cable is not loose. There also must be Reverse and Reverse to Forward. There must be some
no tension in the cable. When the adjustment is correct, movement of the pedal pad before the pedal frame
tighten both jam nuts at the pedal bracket. moves and the throttle opens.

4. Connect the cylinder cable anchor on the other cable
to the lever on the TBI unit. Install the cable housing in
the bracket that is fastened to the TBI adapter. Adjust the
cable housing at the bracket to get full throttle at the TBI.
Tighten the jam nuts at the bracket when the adjustment
is correct.
5. Install the cover on the governor assembly.
IGNITION SYSTEM COMPONENTS
ECM Replacement (See FIGURE 18.)
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the connectors from ECM.
3. Remove the capscrews that hold the ECM to the
mount plate on the frame.

71
NOTE: To prevent Electrostatic Discharge damage to
the ECM, DO NOT TOUCH the connector pins of the
ECM.
4. Install the ECM in position and install the capscrews.
Connect the connectors to the ECM.
5. Connect the negative battery cable.
Function Check
1. Turn ignition key ON.
2. Enter diagnostic mode by connecting the terminals
“A” and “B” together at the DLC.
Let DTC 12 to flash four times in a row to check that no
other DTC’s are present. This indicates that the ECM
functions correctly.
Distributor, Removal
CAUTION
Carefully lift and release the lock tabs on the connec-
tors to the distributor. The lock tabs can be easily
broken if too much force is applied with a screwdriv-
er or other tool.
Never permit the TACH CONN. terminal to touch
ground. The ignition module or the ignition coil can
be damaged.
1. Disconnect the battery negative (ground) cable.
2. If removal of the spark plug wires are not required for
the repairs, leave them connected to the distributor cap.
Remove the two capscrews that fasten the distributor
cap to the distributor. Move the distributor cap away
from the work area.
3. Disconnect the distributor 4–terminal connector.
4. Disconnect the ignition coil connector.
5. Remove the bolt and clamp that hold the distributor in
the engine. Make a note of the positions of the rotor to
distributor housing and the distributor to the engine.
Slowly pull the distributor from the engine until the ro-
tor just stops turning counterclockwise and make a note
of the position of the rotor. This position must be used
when the distributor is installed again.
72
Distributor, Disassembly (See FIGURE 21.)
1. Remove the rotor (2). Make a match mark on the gear
(6) and the shaft (3) so that can be assembled in the same
position.
2. Use a punch to remove the roll pin (5) from the shaft
(3).
3. Remove the gear (6).
4. Remove the shaft (3) with the timer core from the
housing (8).
5. Remove the retainer (4) from the housing (8). Use a
screwdriver as a prybar.
6. Disconnect the sensing coil (12) from the ignition
module (9).
CAUTION
Carefully lift and release the lock tab on the connec-
tor to the sensing coil. The lock tab can be easily bro-
ken if too much force is applied with a screwdriver or
other tool.
7. Use a screwdriver to lift the lock tab. Remove the
sensing coil (12).
8. Remove the two screws that hold the ignition module
(9) in the housing. Remove the ignition module.
Distributor, Inspection
Inspect the shaft for a loose fit between the shaft and its
bushing in the housing. If the bushing or the shaft is
worn so that the shaft moves from side to side in the
bushing, replace the shaft or the housing.
Inspect the housing for cracks or damage.
Distributor, Assembly (See FIGURE 21.)
1. Apply silicon grease to the bottom of the ignition
module (9). Install the ignition module into the housing
(8) and tighten the two screws.
NOTE: Hyster Part No. 304408 is a silicon bearing
grease used between electronic components and their
heat sinks. A small container of silicon grease is en-
closed in the package with a new ignition module.
2. Install the sensing coil (12). The tab on the bottom of
the sensing coil fits into the anchor hole in the housing
(8).
3. Connect the sensing coil to the ignition module. Make Distributor, Installation
sure that the lock tab on the connector is fastened.
1. Put the rotor and distributor in the same position as it
4. Install the retainer (4). was removed from the engine.

5. Install the shaft assembly (3) into the housing (8). If the engine has been rotated after the distributor was
removed, the following procedure must be used before
the distributor is installed again:
12 a. Remove the No. 1 spark plug.
1
b. Put a finger over the No. 1 spark plug hole and
slowly rotate the engine until pressure is felt on
the compression stroke.
11
c. Align the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley to
0° (TDC) on the engine timing indicator.
9
d. Turn the distributor rotor to point between the po-
10
sitions on the distributor cap for No. 1 and No. 4
spark plug leads.
2
e. Install the distributor in the engine. The rotor and
shaft will rotate a few degrees when the gear on
the distributor shaft engages the drive gear on the
engine cam. The timing is correct if the rotor
points at the position on the distributor cap for the
8 3 No. 1 spark plug lead.
7 2. Install the clamp and bolt. Tighten the bolt with your
hand.
6
3. Install the distributor 4–terminal connector.
5 4. Install the ignition coil connector.
4
7. SEAL 5. Install the distributor cap and the two capscrews. If
1. CAP 8. HOUSING
2. ROTOR 9. MODULE the spark plug wires were removed. install them in the
3. SHAFT/TIMER CORE 10. ALIGNMENT correct sequence.
4. RETAINER PIN
5. PIN 11. POLE PIECE 6. Connect the battery negative cable.
6. DRIVE GEAR 12. COIL
7. Start the engine and check the engine timing. See the
FIGURE 21. DISTRIBUTOR following paragraphs about “Ignition Timing”.
8. Tighten the bolt for the distributor clamp to 43 N.m
6. Install the seal (7) on the housing. Install the gear (6) (25 lbf ft).
on the end of the shaft.
Distributor, Ignition Timing
7. Align the marks on the gear and shaft. Install the roll
pin (5). Turn the shaft assembly and make sure the teeth 1. Start and run the engine until it is at the normal operat-
of the timer core on the shaft assembly do not touch the ing temperature. Turn the key switch to “OFF”.
pole piece. 2. Connect the “SCAN” tool to the DLC connector.
8. Install the rotor (2) on the shaft. 3. Connect a timing light to the No. 1 spark plug wire.

73

WARNING
Do not touch moving parts (fan, belt, shafts, pulleys).
4. Start the engine and check the initial timing. The cor-
rect setting for the initial timing set point is 8° BTDC.
5. If the timing is not correct, loosen the clamp that holds
the distributor housing. Rotate the housing right or left
to get the correct timing. Tighten the clamp when the
timing is correct.
6. Disconect the timing light. Disconnect the “SCAN”
tool. Put the cover on the DLC.
IGNITION MODULE
Test For A Fault (See FIGURE 22.)
NOTE: The ignition module can be checked in the dis-
tributor. A test light and three jumper wires are needed
to make the tests. The battery in the vehicle must be fully
charged so that the starter rotates the engine at the nor-
mal speed.
1. Disconnect the 4–terminal connector from the distrib-
utor. Use two jumper wires between the distributor and
the 4–terminal connector to connect the following cir-
cuits:
REFERENCE (Purple/White) Circuit GY
GROUND (Black/Red) Circuit HX
2. Connect the test light to a 12 volt positive source. Start
the engine. Touch the probe of the test light to pin B in
the 4–terminal connector on the distributor. When 12
volts are applied through the test light to pin B (BY–
PASS), the ignition module changes to EST mode. The
EST connection (pin D) is open and the engine will nor-
mally stop. This step checks the BY–PASS operation of
the ignition module.
3. Use a jumper to connect pin D (EST) to pin C (REF-
ERENCE) at the distributor. Apply 12–volts through the
test light to pin B (BY–PASS) as described in step 2.
Start the engine. If the engine starts, this step checks that
the EST circuit in the ignition module is good.
4. Remove the test light from pin B (BY–PASS) while
the engine is running. If the engine stops, this check
shows that the ignition module internally changes the
EST circuit to ground. Since there is a jumper wire be-
tween pin D (EST) to pin C (REFERENCE), the REF-
ERENCE signal is also sent to ground and the engine
stops.

TACH
CONN. A B C D DISTRIBUTOR
IGNITION COIL IGN 4–TERMINAL
CONNECTOR CONNECTOR
+ C
ELECTRONIC
CONTROL MODULE
PN

GBRE
TO
IGNITION
ABCD

HX GROUND
GY REFERENCE
GZ BY–PASS

GW ELECTRONIC
SPARK TIMING
(EST)

TACHOMETER
CONNECTION

FIGURE 22. IGNITION MODULE TEST

74
5. If any tests described in steps 2, 3, or 4 do not work as
indicated, check the wiring harness for a short–circuit or
an open circuit. If the wiring harness is good, replace the
ignition module.
6. When the tests are complete, connect the system for
normal operation.
Replacement (See FIGURE 21.)
1. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.
2. Remove the two screws that hold the ignition module
in the distributor.
3. Lift the ignition module and disconnect the connec-
tions. Make a note of the connections so that they can be
correctly connected again. Remove the ignition module
from the distributor.
STEP 2.
1
3 procedure that comes with the test device. The proce-
2 • Connect an ohmmeter to both connectors of the
STEP 1.
1. SENSING COIL
CONNECTIONS
2. OHMMETER
3. IGNITION
MODULE
FIGURE 23. TEST THE SENSING COIL
NOTE: Do not remove the silicon grease from the igni-
tion module or the distributor if the same ignition mod-
ule will be installed again. If a new ignition module is
installed, a small container of silicon grease is in the
package. Clean the old silicon grease and apply a new
layer of silicon grease to both the ignition module and
the distributor housing. This silicon grease is necessary
for cooling the ignition module.
4. Connect the connectors in the distributor to the igni-
tion module. Make sure the connectors are the same as
when they were removed.
5. Install the ignition module in the distributor.
6. Install the two screws that fasten the ignition module
in the distributor.
7. Install the distributor cap and rotor.
Sensing Coil Test
NOTE: Also see Chart A–8.
This test checks the resistance of the sensing coil for the
ignition module. The distributor can stay on the en-
gine for this test.
The electrical performance of the ignition module can
only be checked with an Electronic Ignition Analyser
(see SPECIAL TOOLS at end of section). Follow the
dures MUST be followed carefully.
Do the following procedure to check the sensing coil:
• Connect an ohmmeter to either sensing coil con-
nection and the housing as shown in Step 1 of
FIGURE 23. If the reading is not infinity (∞), re-
place the sensing coil.
sensing coil as shown in Step 2 of FIGURE 23.
Move the connectors at the sensing coil and at the
connector to find any open–circuits that are not
constant. The ohmmeter will correctly indicate
500 to 1500 ohms. If the indication is not con-
stant or is not within the resistance range, replace
the sensing coil.
Sensing Coil Replacement
Remove and disassemble the distributor as described in
the repairs for the DISTRIBUTOR.
Ignition Coil Test
This procedure tests for open–circuits and short–cir-
cuits in the ignition coil. The ignition coil can stay on
the engine for this test.
75
1. Disconnect the distributor wire and control wires 2. Install the ignition coil assembly on the engine with
from the ignition coil. nuts (or capscrews).

2. Connect an ohmmeter as shown in Step 1 of
FIGURE 24. Use the high scale. The correct indication
is infinity (∞). If a short–circuit is indicated, replace the
ignition coil.
3. Install the control wire connectors and the high volt-
age wire on the ignition coil.
4. Connect the negative (ground) battery cable.

3. Connect an ohmmeter as shown in Step 2 of CLEAN METAL FOR A GOOD

FIGURE 24. Use the low scale. The indication will be GROUND CONNECTION.
very low or approximately zero. If the indication is not
low, replace the ignition coil.

4. Connect an ohmmeter as shown in Step 3 of

FIGURE 24. Use the high scale. The reading must not
be infinity (∞). If the reading is infinity, replace the igni-
tion coil.

5. Connect the distributor lead and wiring to the ignition

coil.

Ignition Coil, Removal

1. Turn the key switch to “OFF”. Apply the parking

brake.
FIGURE 24. TEST THE IGNITION COIL
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

3. Put tags for identification on the conectors and dis- SENSORS

connect them from the coil.
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
CAUTION Replacement,
Do not damage the high voltage wires (spark plug (See FIGURE 18. and FIGURE 25.)
wires) during removal. Hold the wire by the boot
near the end of the wire. Rotate the boot before pull-
ing it and the connection from the terminal. WARNING
The coolant can be very hot. Use caution to prevent
4. Remove the high voltage wire. personal injury.

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable. Disconnect the

5. Remove the nuts (or capscrews) that fasten the brack-
connector at the ECT sensor.
et for the ignition coil to the engine.
2. Use a wrench and carefully loosen the ECT from the
6. Remove the ignition coil and bracket assembly from
coolant manifold.
the engine.
3. Use a liquid sealant on the threads and install the ECT
7. Use a drill and punch to remove the two rivets that fas-
in its hole in the coolant manifold. Tighten the ECT
ten the bracket to the coil.
carefully to 30 N.m (22 lbf ft)..
Ignition Coil, Installation 4. Connect the connector at the ECT. Connect the bat-
tery negative cable.
1. Install the original bracket on the replacement coil us-
ing screws (supplied with replacement coil). 5. Fill the radiator with coolant as required.
76
 2
1
3 1
1. TEMPERATURE SENSOR
2. ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
3. LOCK TAB
FIGURE 25. COOLANT TEMPERATURE
SENSOR (CTS)
MAP Sensor Replacement (See FIGURE 18.)
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect the
electrical connector.
2. Remove the mounting screws and disconnect the vac-
uum hose.
3. Inspect the electrical connectors and terminals for
damage.
4. Install the sensor on the bracket.
5. Connect the electrical connector. Connect the vacuum
hose from the MAP sensor to the fitting at the TBI unit..
PCV SYSTEM
Replacement (See FIGURE 26.)
1. Remove the PCV valve from the rocker arm cover.
2. Run engine at idle speed.
3. Put your thumb over end of PCV valve to check for
vacuum. If there is no vacuum at the PCV valve, check
for restrictions in the hoses, manifold port or PCV valve.
Replace damaged parts.
4. Turn OFF the engine and remove valve. Shake valve
and listen for movement of needle inside the valve. If
valve does not move, replace the valve. Connect the
hose between the PCV valve and the fitting on the intake
manifold.
1. PCV VALVE
2. GROMMET
3. VALVE
COVER
3
FIGURE 26. PCV SYSTEM
WIRING
NOTE: The most common fault that occurs in an elec-
tronic engine control system is caused by a bad connec-
tion in the wiring. Work carefully and make sure that
connectors are not damaged during troubleshooting.
The ECM wiring harness electrically connects the ECM
to solenoids, switches, and sensors in the engine com-
partment. A wiring harness must be replaced with a wire
harness that has the same part number. If a repair (“wire
splice”) must be made to a wiring harness, replacement
wire must have a high temperature insulation.
The signal wires in the electronic control system have a
low voltage and low current. All wire splices must be
high quality so that a fault is not made in the circuit by
the wire splice. Use solder on the wire splices when pos-
sible.
Some connectors are made as a one–piece unit. A dam-
aged one–piece connector must be replaced with a wire
splice into the wiring harness. Some connectors can be
replaced or a terminal within the connectors can be re-
placed. These connectors are described in the para-
graphs under “Connectors and Terminals”.
Connectors And Terminals
Be careful when using a probe to check the voltages on
the terminals in a connector. It is easy to cause a short–
circuit between two terminals with opposite voltages.
Electronic components can be easily damaged by a
short–circuit. Always use a jumper between connectors
when checking circuits. Never damage the insulation or
a seal on a connector when making a check or doing
77
troubleshooting. The “Connector Test Adapter Kit” has
a variation of adapters and connectors that can be used
when troubleshooting a circuit. 3 2

When Troubleshooting, open–circuits are often difficult 1

to see because of dirt, corrosion, or a terminal that is not
in alignment in its socket. When Troubleshooting for an
open–circuit, always check for loose connections and a 4
terminal that can have corrosion. A fault that is not regu-
lar nor constant can also be caused by a loose connection
1. PICK
or a terminal that has corrosion. 2. LOCK TAB
3. TERMINAL
If a connector must be repaired, make sure of the type of 4. CONNECTOR BODY
connector. Some of the smaller connectors can look
FIGURE 28. METRI–PACK “PUSH–TO–SEAT”
similar, but have a different construction. CONNECTOR

NOTE: Not all Metri–Pack connectors have a seal.

Do the following procedures to remove and install a ter-

minal:
1
a. Open any secondary locks that hold the wires and
seals in their positions. Slide the seals along the
wires from the ends of the connector.
b. Hold the wire and use it to push the terminal to its
forward position in the connector body. Hold the
terminal in this position.
c. Find the lock tab for the terminal in the connector
2 channel. Push a removal tool (pick) of the correct
3
size into the connector channel. See FIGURE 28.
4
1. WIRE and FIGURE 29.
2. TERMINAL
3. LOCK TAB
4. HYSTER TOOL KIT HYS1004 4
FIGURE 27. MICRO–PACK CONNECTOR 1

The Micro–Pack connector is shown in FIGURE 27.

This connector is normally used to connect the wire har-
ness to the ECM.
2 3
Metri–Pack connectors come in several sizes and 1. PICK 3. TERMINAL
types that are used on the wire harness. These connec- 2. LOCK TAB 4. CONNECTOR BODY
tors are made by Packard Electric Company. The typical
FIGURE 29. METRI–PACK “PULL–TO–SEAT”
connectors used on lift trucks are No. 56, No. 150, No. CONNECTOR
280, No. 480, and No. 630. Some of these connectors are
“push–to–seat” and others are “pull–to–seat”. Make d. Use the removal tool to move the lock tab and re-
sure the connector is correctly identified before it is lease the terminal from its seat.
changed. The terminals can be damaged if they are re- Push–to–Seat — Gently pull the wire to remove
moved or installed wrong. the terminal from the back of the connector.
78
 Pull–to–Seat — Gently push the wire to remove
the terminal through the front of the connector.
CAUTION
Work carefully and do not use enough force to dam-
age the terminal or the connector.
e. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage.
Make repairs as necessary.
f. If the terminal will be used again, make sure the
lock tab is correctly bent so that the terminal will
be locked in the connector again.
g. Push the terminal into the connector channel.
Make sure that the lock tab correctly locks the ter-
minal in position.
h. Push the seals into their position and install any
secondary locks.

1 d=0

1
4

d = GREATER THAN 0
4 5
1
3 2
1
1. FEMALE TERMINAL
2. LOCK TAB
3. HYSTER TOOL KIT
HYS1004
4. CONNECTOR 1. CONTACT TAB
BODY 2
THE GREATER THE DISTANCE “d”, A FAULT
5. SEAL
CAN OCCUR IN THE CONNECTION.
FIGURE 30. METRI–PACK SERIES 150 FIGURE 31. METRI–PACK SERIES TERMINAL
“PULL–TO–SEAT” TERMINAL REMOVAL INSPECTION

79
The Weather–Pack connectors all have a rubber seal
at the rear end of the connector. All Weather–Pack con- 1. OPEN SECONDARY LOCK HINGE ON
CONNECTOR.
nectors have a round barrel shape around the terminal.
This connector is used in the engine compartment to FEMALE MALE
protect against moisture and dirt which can cause corro- CONNECTOR CONNECTOR
sion and a fault in the voltage signal. These connectors
normally have the low voltage and current used by the
electronic control system. The repair of this type of con- SECONDARY
nector is shown in FIGURE 32. and FIGURE 33. LOCK HINGE

Use a remover tool (from Hyster Tool Kit HYS1004 or 2. REMOVE TERMINAL USING TOOL
equivalent) to remove the pin and sleeve terminals. PUSH TO
These terminals can easily be damaged during removal RELEASE
if the correct tool is not used. The terminal must then be TERMINAL TOOL
replaced.
When making repairs on these connectors, make sure 3. CUT WIRE BEHIND CABLE SEAL
that the terminals are all in their seats correctly and the
sealing rings are installed. These connectors must be WIRE
correctly installed and in good condition so that the elec- SEAL
tronic engine control operates correctly.
4. REPLACE TERMINAL
a. Put new seal on wire.
4 1 b. Remove 5 mm (0.2 in) of insulation from
wire.
c. Install terminal over wire and seal.

2
“PUSH–TO–SEAT” TERMINAL, MALE
1 SEAL
3 5. PUSH TERMINAL AND CONNECTOR
5 UNTIL THEY ARE ENGAGED.
6. CLOSE SECONDARY LOCK HINGE

FIGURE 33. WEATHER–PACK TERMINAL

REPAIR

2 4
6
1. TERMINAL 4. SEAL
2. LOCK TAB 5. REMOVAL TOOL
3. WIRE 6. CONNECTOR BODY

FIGURE 32. WEATHER–PACK TERMINAL AND

CONNECTOR

80
Procedures For Spark Plugs, Spark Plug
Wires, And Boots
NOTE: Use a silicon grease on the inside of the spark
plug boots to make a better weather seal and make the
spark plug boot easier to remove. The following silicon
greases are approved for use:
General Electric GE627
Packard PM776
Wacker Silicones G47
1. Do not damage the spark plug wires during removal.
Hold the wire by the boot near the end of the wire. Rotate
the boot a half–turn before pulling it and the connection
from the spark plug. Do not use pliers or other tools that
can damage the boot. Do not pull the wires to disconnect
the spark plug wires. Pull the boot, or use a tool made for
this purpose.
2. Do NOT put a hole in the boot or the insulation of the
spark plug wire. Do NOT try to insert a wire between the
boot and the connector of the spark plug wire.
3. Make sure the spark plug wires are installed in the
same locations using the clips. The spark plug wires can
be damaged or cause poor engine operation if they are
not correctly installed.
4. Special care must be used when spark plug boots are
installed. Make sure that the metal terminal within the
boot is fully connected to the spark plug terminal. Make
sure that the boot has not moved on the wire. If there is
boot to wire movement, the boot can appear to be fully
installed when it is not.
5. Make sure to install the insulator in the shield at the
boot of all spark plug wires.
NOTE: The condition of the spark plugs removed from
the engine can show engine operating problems. See the
table for Troubleshooting Of Spark Plugs.
81
 TROUBLESHOOTING OF SPARK PLUGS
PROBLEM
Brown to gray or tan deposits and Normal wear
some electrode wear
Dry, black carbon deposits
Wet, oily deposits with minimum
electrode wear
Red, brown, yellow and white col- By–products of combustion.
ored coatings on the insulator.
Engine operation is not constant
during difficult operating condi-
tions.
Heavily deposits on the part of
the plug that goes into the cham-
ber and on the side facing the in-
take valve.
Yellow glaze coating on the insu-
lator of the spark plug.
Insulator tips are burned or elec-
trodes worn.
Spark plugs have broken or
cracked insulator tips
82
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Poor ignition output
“Break–in” of new or recently over-
hauled engine
Clearances too large between valve
stem and valve guide
Worn seals on the inlet valves
Valve seals have leaks if condition is
found in only one or two cylinders.
Melted by–products of combustion.
Overheating
Heat shock from sudden rise in tip
temperature under severe operating
conditions. Electrode clearance not
correct.
CORRECTION
Clean the spark plugs, set the elec-
trode clearance and install.
Check distributor to coil connections.
Clean and install the spark plugs.
See the Engine section for your en-
gine.
Replace the seals.
Clean the spark plugs, set electrode
clearance and install.
Check the seals. Replace if neces-
sary. Clean, set electrode clearance
and install the spark plugs.
Avoid sudden acceleration with full
throttle after long periods of low
speed driving. Replace the spark
plugs.
Check the cooling system.
Lean air–fuel mixture.
Check the heat range of the spark
plugs for too hot.
Check ignition timing.
Check the torque value of the spark
plugs to make sure they are correctly
installed.
Replace the spark plugs. Set elec-
trode clearance to the correct value.
 BS

5 AMP

CIRCUIT BREAKER

JZ

KD
JX

ALDL
CONNECTOR

F G H J K
A B C D E
JW

A GR
C HA
B HW HY

FIGURE 34. ECM WIRING DIAGRAM (1 of 2)

83
 ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE

HK
HJ

JT
HG

A B
B
A COIL

A
A
B C
B
D
TACHOMETER
CONNECTION
DISTRIBUTOR

AK

FIGURE 34. ECM WIRING DIAGRAM (2 OF 2)

84
 PIN PIN
NO. 16 NO. 1

PIN PIN
NO. 32 NO. 17
ECM INPUT CONNECTOR (J1)
ECM PIN NUMBER CIRCUIT (WIRE) CODE CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
J1–1 Not Used Not Used
J1–2 GQ Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
J1–3 Not Used Not Used
J1–4 Not Used Not Used
J1–5 Not Used Not Used
J1–6 Not Used Not Used
J1–7 HS Fault Analysis Request – DLC “B”
J1–8 Not Used Not Used
J1–9 HA MAP Signal – MAP Terminal “B”
J1–10 GU TPS Signal – TPS Terminal “C”
J1–11 JM ECM Ignition – from fuse
J1–12 Not Used Not Used
J1–13 HV TPS Ground – TPS Terminal “B”
J1–14 HQ System Ground
J1–15 GT TPS 5 Volt Source – TPS Terminal “A”
J1–16 HD ECB Battery +, Long Term Memory
J1–17 Not Used Not Used
J1–18 HZ Serial Data – DLC Terminal “M”
J1–19 Not Used Not Used
J1–20 Not Used Not Used
J1–21 Not Used Not Used
J1–22 Not Used Not Used
J1–23 Not Used Not Used
J1–24 Not Used Not Used
J1–25 Not Used Not Used
J1–26 Not Used Not Used
J1–27 Not Used Not Used
J1–28 Not Used Not Used
J1–29 HY MAP and Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Ground
J1–30 HQA System Ground
J1–31 GR MAP 5 Volt Source – MAP Terminal “C”
J1–32 HC ECM Battery +, Long Term Memory

85
 PIN PIN
NO. 16 NO. 1

PIN
NO. 32 PIN
ECM OUTPUT CONNECTOR (J2) NO. 17

ECM PIN NUMBER CIRCUIT (WIRE) CODE CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION

J2–1 Not Used Not Used
J2–2 Not Used Not Used
J2–3 Not Used Not Used
J2–4 Not Used Not Used
J2–5 Not Used Not Used
J2–6 HX Ignition Reference Ground
J2–7 Not Used Not Used
J2–8 GY Ignition Reference Signal
J2–9 JA Electronic Driver, Fuel Pump Relay
J2–10 Not Used Not Used
J2–11 Not Used Not Used
J2–12 Not Used Not Used
J2–13 JT Electronic Driver, IAC Coil “A” Low
J2–14 HJ Electronic Driver, IAC Coil “B” High
J2–15 HN ECM System Ground
J2–16 Not Used Not Used
J2–17 Not Used Not Used
J2–18 Not Used Not Used
J2–19 Not Used Not Used
J2–20 JX ECM System Ground
J2–21 JBA Electronic Driver, Fuel Injector
J2–22 Not Used Not Used
J2–23 GW Ignition Control, Timing Signal
J2–24 GZ Electronic Driver, By–Pass
J2–25 Not Used Not Used
J2–26 Not Used Not Used
J2–27 Not Used Not Used
J2–28 HG Electronic Driver, IAC Coil “A” High
J2–29 HK Electronic Driver, IAC Coil “B” Low
J2–30 JR Electronic Driver, Governor Control
J2–31 AZ Electronic Driver, Malfunction Indicator Lamp
J2–32 Not Used Not Used

86
 SPECIAL TOOLS
“SCAN” Tool
Reads problem codes from the ECM memory. Used to
analyze and Troubleshoot components and the EMC
“SCAN” Tool operation of the electronic engine control system.
Part No.95050
“SCAN” tool will also record data stream information
Adapter Part No. when the engine is operating. This procedure will record
94005H information that is not regular nor constant or that only
occurs during some conditions.
Available from:
Rinda Technologies Inc.
4563 North Elston Ave
Chicago, IL 60630

Connector Test Adapter Kit

Used to make electrical test connections in the
“Weather–Pack”, “Metri–Pack”, and “Micro–Pack”
terminals.

OTC Part No. KMJ35616A

Circuit Tester
Used to check relays and solenoids before they are
connected to a new ECM. This tester measures the
circuit resistance and indicates correct or wrong with a
green and a red LED. An amber LED indicates current
OTC Part No.KMJ34636 polarity. This tester can also be used as a test light
(without internal battery).
Spark Tester
Used to check secondary ignition voltage. Also called an
ST125.

OTC Part No.7230

Fuel Pressure Gauge

Used to check fuel pressure from fuel pump to TBI. Has
special fitting to fit the Schroeder test port in the fuel line
or Hyster Company lift trucks.
Hyster Part No. HYS1003

87
 SPECIAL TOOLS
OTC Part No.3320 Tester for Idle Air Control and Idle Speed Control
The TBI units do not have external adjustments for idle
speed nor idle air control. This tester is required to set the
idle air control and the idle speed control electronically.

OTC Part No.3053 Signal Test Lights for Idle Air Control and Idle Speed
Control
Signal test lights that can be used with the Tester for Idle
Air Control and Idle Speed Control Part No. 3320.

OTC Part No.7059 for Vacuum Pump, Hand Operated

Hi–Impact plastic model Use gauge to check engine manifold vacuum and to test
vacuum sensors, valves and solenoids.
OTC Part No.7559
for metal model

Remover Tool Remover Tool Tool Kit for Terminal Repair

J35689/BT8446–A J28742–A/BT8234–A Terminals can not be removed from their connectors nor
For Terminals In The For Weather–Pack repaired without special tools This kit has the special
150–Series Connectors removal and installation tools and crimping tools required
Metri–Pack to make repairs in Micro–Pack, Metri–Pack, and
Connectors Weather–Pack connectors. This repair kit does not have
the terminals nor the connectors.
Remover Tool
J33095/BT8234–A
For ECM Connector
Terminals
Tool Kit – Hyster Part No. HYS1004

Digital Multimeter
Voltmeter — A minimum impedance of 10 Meg ohms is
required so that the electronic circuit being measured is
accurate.
Ammeter — Can be used to measure current flow in
electronic circuits.
Ohmmeter — Some Ommeters will automatically
change ranges. Other Ohmmeters have range switches.
Many of the multimeters available will also operate as a
tachometer, distributor “dwell”, and a diode tester.

88
SPECIAL TOOLS
Tachometer
Use a tachometer with an inductive trigger sensor to
check the engine speed.

Test Light (Without Internal Battery)

Used to check for open–circuits, short–circuits, and for
signal voltages in a circuit.

Adjustment Wrench for Minimum Idle Speed

Used to adjust the throttle stop screw on the TBI unit.

89
 INTRODUCTION
GENERAL The troubleshooting and repair procedures for the parts
of the electronic engine controls are in the section
This section has a description of the electronic engine ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROL – Trouble-
control system. shooting and Repair, 2200 SRM 611.

DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION

GENERAL • Fuel Injection System

An Electronic Control Module (ECM) is the main com- • Electric Spark Timing (EST)
ponent of this control system. The ECM is a small com- • An electronic governor
puter that controls the ignition timing and fuel supply in
the gasoline engine. The ECM has the information for • “Check Engine” light
the best operation of the engine according to the fuel, • Idle air control (IAC)
temperature, load and other conditions. The ECM has
• Fuel pump relay
sensors that give information about engine operation
and the systems it controls. The ECM can do some diag- • Diagnostic link connector (DLC) for trouble-
nosis of itself and of other parts of the system. When a shooting
problem is found, the ECM turns on the “Malfunction
Indicator” lamp on the instrument panel and a diagnos-
tic trouble code will be stored in the ECM memory.
SIDE VIEW 1
ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE (ECM) 5
(See FIGURE 1.)
The Electronic Control Module (ECM) is the control 4
center of the fuel injection system. It constantly moni-
tors the information from the sensors, and controls the
components and systems which affect engine operation.
The ECM also performs the diagnostic function of the
system. It can sense problems, activate the “Malfunc-
tion Indicator” lamp, and store a diagnostic trouble code
or codes (DTC). The ECM controls the following sys-
tems and components for the best fuel use and engine
performance:

2
3
1. ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE
(ECT) SENSOR
2. DISTRIBUTOR
3. OIL PRESSURE/FUEL PUMP SWITCH
4. IGNITION COIL
5. FUEL PUMP RELAY

FIGURE 2. ARRANGEMENT OF COMPONENTS

FOR ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROL (1 of 2)
FIGURE 1. ECM

1
 TOP VIEW 2
1

11 3

10

4
5

12909
8

7
6

1. THROTTLE BODY INJECTION (TBI) UNIT 7. IGNITION COIL

2. FUEL INJECTOR FUSE 8. DIAGNOSTIC LINK CONNECTOR (DLC)
3. IGNITION FUSE 9. FUEL PUMP FUSE
4. ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT) 10. ECM FUSE
SENSOR 11. MAP SENSOR
5. DISTRIBUTOR
6. GOVERNOR MOTOR

FIGURE 2. ARRANGEMENT OF COMPONENTS FOR ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROL (2 OF 2)

2
How The ECM Begins Operation
When the ignition switch is turned to ON, the ECM does
the following functions:
• Measures the atmospheric pressure (BARO sig-
nal) from the MAP sensor.
• Checks the signal from the engine coolant tem-
perature (ECT) sensor.
• Energizes the fuel pump relay for approximately
two seconds.
• Checks that the throttle position sensor indicates
that the throttle is less than 80% open. (If the
throttle is more than 80% open, the ECM will de-
termine that the engine is flooded with fuel and
will deliver less fuel to the engine.)
• EST Distributor System: Checks the starting
mode from the ignition module. [When the starter
is engaged, the ignition module sends electronic
pulses to the ECM. The frequency of the pulses
indicates to the ECM that the engine is being
started. The ignition module also electronically
energizes (ON) and deenergizes (OFF) the pri-
mary circuit of the ignition coil to create a spark at
the spark plugs.]
The ECM makes the checks in a few milliseconds and
determines the correct air and fuel ratio for starting the
engine. The range of this air and fuel ratio is 1.8:1 at
–40°C (–40°F) to 17:1 at 150°C (302°F) as indicated by
the signal from the engine coolant temperature sensor.
The ECM controls the amount of fuel sent to the engine
by changing the pulse times [how long the fuel injector
is energized (ON) and deenergized (OFF)].
OPERATING CONDITIONS
SENSED BY ECM
• Engine Coolant Temperature
• Engine Crank Signal
• Distributor Reference
• Engine Speed (rpm) ECM
• Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
• System Voltage
• Throttle Position
• Fuel Pump Voltage
FIGURE 3. ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROL SYSTEM
When the engine starts, the frequency of the pulses from
the ignition module increases and indicates to the ECM
that the engine is running. The ECM takes control of the
ignition timing and fuel control for the best engine oper-
ation. When the engine is operating, the ECM continu-
ously checks the signals from the MAP, ECT, TPS and
engine speed sensors to make timing and fuel adjust-
ments for the engine operating conditions.
ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROL
What The ECM Does
The ECM receives signals from the following compo-
nents:
• Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor.
This sensor is a pressure transducer that measures
the atmospheric pressure before the engine is
started and the ECM uses this pressure as a refer-
ence. This sensor then measures changes in pres-
sure in the intake manifold during engine opera-
tion.
• Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor.
This sensor is a thermistor (resistor that is cali-
brated to change its value as its temperature
changes) that monitors the engine coolant tem-
perature.
• Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). This sensor in-
dicates the position of the throttle that is set by the
operator and is used with the indications from the
other sensors to determine the correct engine op-
eration.
SYSTEMS CONTROLLED
BY ECM
Electronic Spark Timing (EST)
Fuel Control
• Idle Air Control
• Electric Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injection
Troubleshooting
• “Check Engine” Light
• Troubleshooting Terminal (DLC)
• Data Output (DLC)
Governor Control
3
 • Fuel Pump. When the key switch is first turned
to “ON”, the ECM energizes the fuel pump relay
for two seconds. This action quickly raises the
fuel pressure to the fuel injectors. If the engine is
not cranked or started within two seconds, the
ECM deenergizes the fuel pump relay and the
fuel pump goes to “OFF”. When the engine is
cranked by the starter, the ECM energizes the fuel
pump relay again so that the fuel pump operates.
• Ignition module. This component is a small
electronic module within the distributor. See
FIGURE 4. This ignition module is a signal con-
verter that senses the operation of the distributor.
A sensor coil in the distributor senses the rotation
of the timer core and the ignition module senses
the speed of rotation. A square wave generator in
the ignition module converts the pulses from the
sensor coil to a square wave signal that is sent to
the ECM. If the signals from the ignition module
to the ECM indicate that the crankshaft is rotating
at less than 400 rpm, the ECM determines that the
engine is being cranked by the starter. The igni-
tion module controls the ignition for an engine
being started. The Electronic Spark Timing
(EST) function from the ECM is deenergized. If
the signals from the ignition module to the ECM
indicate that the crankshaft is rotating at greater
than 400 rpm, the ECM determines that the en-
gine is running and the Electronic Spark Timing
(EST) controls the ignition.
• Electronic governor. The ECM senses the en-
gine speed from the ignition module and operates
the governor motor on the throttle body to control
the engine speed. The governor motor will over-
ride the throttle position that is set by the operator
to control the engine speed within the limits set in
the ECM.
Distributor (See FIGURE 4.)
A timer core (permanent magnet) on the shaft of the dis-
tributor has external teeth which align with an equal
number of teeth on the pole piece. When the teeth of the
timer core rotate past the teeth of the pole piece, there is
a decrease in the air gap between the timer core and the
pole piece. The magnetic field increases. When teeth are
not aligned, the magnetic field decreases between the
4
timer core and the pole piece. As the timer core rotates,
the magnetic field increases and decreases in a cycle.
When a coil is near a changing magnetic field, a voltage
is generated in the coil. This principle is called magnetic
induction. A sensing coil is installed over the permanent
magnet. As the magnetic field near the pole piece
changes, a small voltage is generated in the sensing coil.
The principle of magnetic induction also controls the
polarity of the voltage generated in the coil. An increas-
ing magnetic field will generate a voltage in the coil that
is the opposite polarity of a magnetic field that is de-
creasing. This signal pulse causes the integrated circuits
in the ignition module to generate a square wave signal.
The ignition module and a magnetic pulse generator
control the primary circuit to the ignition coil when the
engine is started. The ECM receives the square wave
signal from the magnetic pulse generator and ignition
module as one of the signals to control the ignition. The
pole piece has the same number of teeth as the engine
has cylinders so that a spark voltage is correctly sent to
each spark plug as the shaft in the distributor rotates.
1
2
3
4
6
1. ROTOR
2. TIMER
5 CORE/SHAFT
3. SENSING COIL
4. POLE PIECE
5. HOUSING
6. IGNITION
MODULE
FIGURE 4. DISTRIBUTOR
Ignition Module
The ignition module is a solid–state electronic device
that operates like a fast switch except that it does not
have any moving or mechanical parts. See FIGURE 4.
Small electrical pulses from the sensing coil of the pulse
generator go to the ignition module.
The ECM must always know the speed at which the en-
gine is operating. The engine speed signal is generated
by the ignition module. The signal converter in the igni-
tion module changes the signal voltage from the sensing
coil to a square wave reference signal to the ECM. This
square wave reference signal for engine speed is called
“REF HI”. The ECM must also have a reference to com-
pare with “REF HI”. An additional wire between the
ECM and the EST module is called “REF LO”
(GROUND). The “REF HI” and “REF LO” connections
give the PROM in the ECM the necessary information
about engine speed.
The other two wires between the ECM and the distribu-
tor control the Electronic Spark Timing and are called
“EST” and “BY–PASS”.
NOTE: The ignition module controls spark timing only
when the the engine is being started or if the ECM fails.
The ECM controls the spark timing during engine oper-
ation. The ignition module will also control the spark
timing if there are some failures in the signals to the
ECM. This “back–up” mode of operation will often per-
mit operation of the engine so that the lift truck can be
moved to an area for repair. The result of failures in sig-
nals to the ECM is described in the paragraphs under
“Electronic Control Module (ECM) Corrections”.
When The Engine Is Being Started
See FIGURE 5. When the engine is rotated by the start-
er, the electronic relay (2) is in the deenergized position.
The sensing coil is connected through the square wave
generator (3) to the base of the transistor (8).
When the sensing coil (4) applies a positive voltage (the
square wave voltage is increasing) to the transistor (8),
the transistor goes ON. When the voltage from the sens-
ing coil changes to negative (the square wave voltage is
decreasing), the transistor goes OFF. When the transis-
tor is ON, current flows through the primary winding of
the ignition coil. When the transistor goes OFF, the cur-
rent flow through the primary winding stops. The
changing magnetic field in the primary winding gener-
ates a high voltage in the secondary winding of the igni-
tion coil This high voltage generates a spark at the spark
plug.
When the Engine Is Running
See FIGURE 6. When the engine speed is approximate-
ly 400 rpm, the ECM determines that the engine is run-
ning and applies 5 volts on the “BY–PASS” wire to the
ignition module. This voltage energizes the electronic
relay (2) and makes the following changes: The “EST”
wire is not grounded and is now connected to the base of
the transistor (8). The sensing coil is disconnected from
the base of the transistor (8).
5
 8 2
P N
1 3

ÉÉÉÉ 4

ÉÉÉÉ
5

MAP SENSOR
+ C G B R E ECT SENSOR

A B C D EST J2–23 To Ground

6 7 REF–LO J2– 8
1. IGNITION MODULE BY–PASS J2–24 No Voltage
2. ELECTRONIC RELAY REF–LO J2– 6 Ground
3. SQUARE WAVE GENERATOR 6. BATTERY VOLTAGE
4. SENSING COIL 7. TO IGNITION COIL
5. ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE 8. TRANSISTOR

FIGURE 5. IGNITION MODULE WHEN ENGINE IS BEING STARTED

8 2
P N
1

ÉÉÉÉ
3

ÉÉÉÉ
4

ÉÉÉÉ
5

MAP SENSOR
+ C G B R E ECT SENSOR

A B C D EST J2–23 No Ground

6 7 REF–LO J2– 8
1. IGNITION MODULE BY–PASS J2–24 5 Volts
2. ELECTRONIC RELAY REF–LO J2– 6 Ground
3. SQUARE WAVE GENERATOR 6. BATTERY VOLTAGE
4. SENSING COIL 7. TO IGNITION COIL
5. ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE 8. TRANSISTOR

FIGURE 6. IGNITION MODULE WHEN ENGINE IS RUNNING

6
The ignition module and the ignition timing is now con-
trolled by the “EST” signal from the ECM. This mode of
operation is called the “EST mode”.
Electronic Control Module (ECM) Corrections
The ECM does a check of the system components of the
EST. A set of normal operating limits are part of the
PROM program. If a sensor sends a signal that is outside
of the limits of the PROM program, the ECM will not
use the information. The ECM will use a standard value
from its program and continue to operate the EST.
The following examples are the action of the ECM if it
finds a problem:
MAP Sensor Signal Voltage Is Too High Or
Too Low. The ECM will use a MAP value from
its PROM program and use this value to calculate
the ignition timing.
ECT Signal Voltage Is Too High Or Too Low. If
the coolant sensor sends a signal voltage that is
outside of the range programmed by the ECM,
the ECM will determine that the engine is “cold”.
The ECM will use a value for a cold engine.
Open Circuit In EST Wire. Normally, the sig-
nal from the ECM to the ignition module rises
and falls as the voltage from the sensing coil rises
and falls. If the EST circuit is open, the electronic
relay in the ignition module is not at ground po-
tential.The engine will start but will not continue
to run. If the EST circuit becomes open during
engine operation, the engine will stop.
Short–Circuit (Grounded Circuit) In EST
Wire. When the engine is being rotated by the
starter, the ECM normally detects 0 volts in the
EST circuit because the circuit is at ground poten-
tial in the ignition module. The ECM would not
detect a problem until the engine began to run.
The ECM could not operate in the EST mode and
the engine will not operate. If the EST circuit has
a short–circuit (grounded circuit) when the en-
gine is running, it will stop.
Open Circuit Or Short–Circuit In The BY–
PASS Circuit. The ECM would not detect a
problem until the engine began to run. The ECM
could not operate in the EST mode and the engine
would operate with reduced power. If this prob-
lem occurs when the engine is running, the en-
gine will only operate in the starting mode.
Open Circuit Or Short–Circuit In The REF
HI Circuit. The ECM would not detect that the
engine was operating. The ECM could not oper-
ate in the EST mode and the engine will not oper-
ate.
Open Circuit Or Short–Circuit In The REF
LO Circuit. The ECM would not have a compar-
ison for operation. The ECM could not operate in
the EST mode and the engine will not operate
correctly.
What The ECM Does
The ECM receives signals from the following compo-
nents:
• Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor.
This sensor is a pressure transducer that measures
the atmospheric pressure before the engine is
started and the ECM uses this pressure as a refer-
ence. This sensor then measures changes in pres-
sure in the intake manifold during engine opera-
tion.
• Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor.
This sensor is a thermistor (resistor that is cali-
brated to change its value as its temperature
changes) that monitors the engine coolant tem-
perature.
• Throttle position sensor (TPS). This sensor in-
dicates the position of the throttle that is set by the
operator and is used with the indications from the
other sensors to determine the correct engine op-
eration.
• Fuel Pump. When the key switch is first turned
to “ON”, the ECM energizes the fuel pump relay
for two seconds. This action quickly raises the
fuel pressure to the fuel injectors. If the engine is
not cranked or started within two seconds, the
ECM deenergizes the fuel pump relay and the
fuel pump goes to “OFF”. When the engine is
cranked by the starter, the ECM energizes the fuel
pump relay again so that the fuel pump operates.
• Engine speed sensor. If the signals from the EST
module to the ECM indicate that the crankshaft is
rotating at less than 400 rpm, the ECM deter-
mines that the engine is being cranked by the
7
 starter. The ignition module controls the ignition
for an engine being started. The Electronic Spark
Timing (EST) function from the ECM is deener-
gized. If the signals from the ignition module to
the ECM indicate that the crankshaft is rotating at
greater than 400 rpm, the ECM determines that
the engine is running and the Electronic Spark
Timing (EST) controls the ignition.
• Governor. The governor prevents engine speeds
above the specification when operating with light
loads, and permits the throttle to open for full
power for heavy loads. The operation of the gov-
ernor is described later in this section under
“Governor System.”
FUEL CONTROL OPERATION
The function of the fuel injection system is to deliver the
correct amount of fuel to the engine under all operating
conditions. Fuel is delivered by the Throttle Body Injec-
tion (TBI) unit, which is controlled by the Electronic
Control Module (ECM), based on certain operating
conditions. These conditions, which include engine
speed, manifold pressure, engine coolant temperature,
and throttle position, determine the “mode” of engine
operation. These modes are: Starting, Clear Excess Fuel
(Clear Flood), Run, Acceleration, Deceleration, and
Fuel Cut–off.
Starting Mode. When the key is first turned ON, the
ECM turns “ON” the fuel pump relay for two seconds,
and the fuel pump builds up fuel pressure at the TBI unit.
The ECM then monitors the coolant temperature,
throttle position, manifold pressure, and ignition signal
to determine the proper air/fuel ratio for starting. This
ranges from 1.5:1 at –36°C (–33°F) to 14.7:1 at 94°C
(201°F).
Clear Excess Fuel (clear flood) Mode. If the engine
does not start from excess fuel, it can be cleared by
pressing the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor.
8
The ECM then pulses the injector for an air to fuel ratio
of 20:1 or more. The ECM maintains this injector rate as
long as the throttle stays wide open and the engine speed
is below 600 rpm. If the throttle position becomes less
than 80%, the ECM returns to the Starting Mode.
Run Mode. The Run Mode is the mode under which the
engine operates most of the time. In this mode, the en-
gine operates on normal amounts of fuel.
Acceleration Mode. When the ECM senses rapid in-
crease in throttle position and manifold pressure, the
system enters the Acceleration Mode. In this mode, the
ECM gives the extra fuel needed for smooth accelera-
tion.
Deceleration Mode. When deceleration occurs, the
fuel remaining in the intake manifold can cause backfir-
ing. When the ECM observes a fast reduction in throttle
opening and a sharp decrease in manifold pressure, it
causes the system to enter the Deceleration Mode. In
this mode, the ECM reduces the amount of fuel deliv-
ered to the engine. When deceleration is very fast, the
ECM cuts off fuel completely for short periods.
Fuel Cut–Off Mode. To prevent possible engine dam-
age from over speed, the ECM will “cut–off” fuel from
the injector at about 3600 rpm. Fuel “cut–off” remains
in effect until engine speed drops below about 3600
rpm. (The governor would normally not allow the en-
gine to reach this condition.)
FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS
The fuel supply is kept in the fuel tank. An electric fuel
pump, located in the fuel tank, supplies fuel through a
filter to the TBI unit. (See FIGURE 7.) The pump deliv-
ers fuel at a pressure greater than is needed by the injec-
tor. A pressure regulator, part of the TBI assembly,
keeps fuel available to the injector. Fuel that is not used
is returned to the fuel tank by a separate line.

1 2
1. OUTLET FUEL LINE
ÂÂÂÂÂ
2. RETURN FUEL LINE
ÂÂÂÂÂ
AND FUEL PUMP
SUPPORT
3. CLAMP (2)
ÂÂÂÂÂ
ÂÂÂÂÂ
4. FLEXIBLE COUPLING
5. FUEL PUMP AND
MOTOR
6. SCREEN 6 1.
FIGURE 7. FUEL PUMP
Fuel Pump Electrical Circuit
When the ignition switch is turned to the ON position
(engine not running), the ECM turns the fuel pump relay
“ON” for two seconds. This action quickly raises the
fuel pressure to the fuel injector. If the engine is not
started within two seconds, the ECM deenergizes the
fuel pump relay and the fuel pump goes to OFF. When
the engine is cranked by the starter, the ECM energizes
the fuel pump relay again so that the fuel pump operates.
As a parallel system to the fuel pump relay, the fuel
pump also can be turned “ON” by the oil pressure
switch. The oil pressure sender has two internal circuits.
One circuit operates the oil pressure indicator or gage in
the instrument cluster, and the other is a normally open
switch that closes when oil pressure reaches approxi-
mately 28 kPa (4 psi). If the fuel pump relay has a fault,
the oil pressure switch runs the fuel pump.
Throttle Body Injection (See FIGURE 8.)
The TBI unit consists of two major assemblies; the
Throttle Body and the Fuel Meter Body. The parts of the
Throttle Body are the Throttle Position (TP) Sensor, Idle
Air Control (IAC) Valve, Throttle Valve and the Tube
Module Assembly. The Fuel Meter Body has the Fuel
Injector and the Fuel Pressure Regulator
1
2
6
3
5
4
FUEL INJECTOR
2. FUEL INLET
3. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
4. FUEL OUTLET
5. IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE
6. FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR
FIGURE 8. THROTTLE BODY INJECTION
(TBI) UNIT
Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
The Throttle Position (TP) Sensor is a potentiometer
that is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body.
It senses the position of the throttle plate and sends that
information to the ECM. This information permits the
ECM to generate the correct pulses to the fuel injector
for fuel control. If the throttle position sensor indicates a
fully opened throttle to the ECM, the ECM then in-
creases the pulse width to the fuel injector.
The TP Sensor electrical circuit has a 5 volt supply line
and a ground path line, both from the ECM. A third wire
is used as a signal line to the ECM. By monitoring the
voltage on this signal line, the ECM calculates throttle
position. As the throttle plate angle is changed (acceler-
ator pedal moved), the signal voltage of the TP Sensor
also changes. At a closed throttle position, the signal of
the TP Sensor is below 1.25volts. As the throttle plate
opens, the signal voltage increases, so that at wide open
throttle, it is approximately 5 volts.
9
 1 AIR FLOW
2
3
1. THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY
2. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
3. THROTTLE SHAFT
FIGURE 9. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
(See FIGURE 10.)
The idle speed of the engine is controlled by the ECM
through the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. The idle air
control valve has a linear DC step motor that moves a
pintle valve to control the idle air system. See
FIGURE 10. The step motor moves the pintle one step
for each “count” that it receives from the ECM. Each
voltage pulse from the ECM to move the pintle valve is a
count. This movement of the pintle valve controls the air
flow around the throttle plate. (When the pintle valve is
EXTENDED, it decreases air flow and when RE-
TRACTED, it increases air flow.) This air flow controls
the engine idle speed at all operating temperatures. A
minimum setting is for engine idle at sea level and nor-
mal conditions. A heavier load from the alternator, hy-
draulic pump or other accessories will cause the ECM to
set a higher number of counts on the pintle valve.
The number of counts that indicates the position of the
pintle valve can be seen when the “scan” tool is con-
nected for troubleshooting.
Pintle Extended = Decrease rpm = Lower Counts.
Pintle Retracted = Increase rpm = Higher Counts.
10
1
2
3
1. THROTTLE BODY
2. LINEAR DC STEP MOTOR
3. PINTLE VALVE
FIGURE 10. IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE
Fuel Injector
The fuel injector is a solenoid that is controlled by the
ECM. When the ECM energizes the solenoid, a normal-
ly closed ball valve is lifted off its seat. The fuel is under
constant pressure and is injected in a cone spray pattern
into the bore of the throttle body, above the throttle plate.
The fuel that is not used by the fuel injector flows
through the pressure regulator and returns to the fuel
tank.
Fuel Pressure Regulator
The fuel pressure regulator is part of the fuel metering
assembly of the TBI. The function of the fuel pressure
regulator is to maintain a constant fuel pressure at the in-
jector during all operating modes. An air chamber and a
fuel chamber are separated by a diaphragm–operated re-
lief valve and a calibrated spring. Fuel pressure at the
fuel injector is controlled by the difference in pressure
on each side of the diaphragm. The fuel pressure from
the fuel pump on one side of the diaphragm acts against
the force of the calibrated spring on the other side of the
diaphragm. The system operates in a pressure range of
62 to 90 kPa (9 to 13 psi).
The fuel meter assembly includes a vapor relief hole that
relieves system pressure when the engine is turned OFF.
This hole also helps release vapors from the injector and on the second drum. This action allows the operator to
regulator for starting a hot engine. open the throttle when under heavy load, but the motor
will rotate the drum, against the spring, to close the
Idle Speed Control throttle plate under light load–high rpm. Using engine
speed and load, the governor controls the actual position
The ECM uses two basic items to control idle rpm. The of the throttle plate, within that range of possible open-
Idle Air Control (IAC) valve and spark timing are ad- ing.
justed to give the correct idle rpm. During varying idle
loads and engine temperature the ECM must be able to
keep the engine running at the correct rpm. 2
7
3
Spark timing varies engine speed by varying the engine 1
power output. IAC valve changes the air delivered to the
engine which also changes the engine output.
8
Also remember that air can enter the engine in other
areas. One is by the throttle plate and another is the PCV
valve. Vacuum leaks can affect idle speed.

Maximum RPM Control

There are two items that control maximum engine rpm.

One is the ECM fuel cut–off, and the other is a governor
system. Fuel cut–off is used only if the governor system
malfunctions. 4
6
Governor speed control is a lower rpm value. This sys-
5
tem uses a cable drum that is driven by a motor. The mo-
tor is controlled by a governor module. When a cali-
brated rpm is reached, the ECM sends a signal to the
module which in turn runs the motor. The throttle plate 1. SENSOR INPUTS
on the throttle body is driven toward the closed position 2. KEY SWITCH
to limit engine rpm. 3. GOVERNOR CONTROL MODULE
4. GOVERNOR
GOVERNOR SYSTEM (See FIGURE 11.) 5. THROTTLE CABLES
6. TBI UNIT
7. THROTTLE (MONOTROL) PEDAL
The governor motor is an electric DC motor that is actu- 8. ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE (ECM)
ated and controlled by the Electronic Control Module
(ECM) through the governor control module (governor FIGURE 11. GOVERNOR SYSTEM
motor driver circuit). The governor prevents engine The engine sensors, such as the Throttle Position (TP)
speeds above specifications when operating with light Sensor, Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, and
loads, and permits the throttle to open for full power for crankshaft reference pulses (rpm) gives constant in-
heavy loads. formation on engine operating conditions to the Elec-
The components of the governor system are the ECM, tronic Control Module (ECM). The ECM uses the in-
the governor control module and the governor motor as- formation on throttle plate position and engine rpm to
sembly and cables. The cables and drum allow the determine whether or not governed operation is needed.
throttle control to be split. This split arrangement allows At low engine speeds, below calibration rpm, the gover-
the governor motor drum to close the throttle plate, yet nor drive motor is not energized. At higher engine
open them indirectly. The first drum is turned by the ac- speeds, above calibration rpm, where the governor is
celerator pedal. A spring located inside the drum pushes needed, the ECM sends a signal to the governor control

11
module to increase current flow to the governor motor.
The governor motor rotates the drum and this causes the
1
throttle plate to rotate toward the closed position. Con-
trol of the throttle plate is determined by the TP Sensor
and engine speed signals to the ECM. When engine load
increases and rpm decreases, the electrical current to the
motor is reduced by the ECM through the governor con- 2
trol module, thus allowing the throttle plate to open far-
ther.
1. SENSOR
2. ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
ECM SENSORS AND CONTROLLERS
FIGURE 12. MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE
PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR

Manifold Absolute Pressure

(MAP) Sensor (See FIGURE 12.)
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor is a
pressure transducer that measures pressure changes in
the intake manifold. Pressure changes are the result of
engine load and speed changes. The MAP sensor con-
verts these pressure changes to a signal voltage to the
ECM.
A closed throttle causes a low pressure (high engine vac-
uum) in the intake manifold. This low pressure causes a
low voltage signal from the MAP sensor to the ECM. A
fully opened throttle causes a higher pressure (low en-
gine vacuum) in the intake manifold. This higher pres-
sure causes a higher voltage signal from the MAP sensor
to the ECM. These pressure changes indicate the load on
the engine and sends a signal to the ECM. The ECM then
calculates the spark timing and fuel requirements for
best engine performance.
The MAP sensor also measures barometric pressure
when the key switch is turned to ON and before the en-
gine is started. The ECM “remembers” the barometric
pressure (BARO signal) after the engine is running.
This method enables the ECM to automatically adjust
for different altitudes and atmospheric conditions.
The ECM supplies 5 volts to the MAP sensor and moni-
tors the voltage on a signal line. The sensor provides a
path to ground through its variable resistance. The MAP
sensor signal affects fuel delivery and ignition timing
controls in the ECM.
Engine Coolant Temperature
(ECT) Sensor (See FIGURE 13.)
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor is a re-
sistor that changes its resistance when the temperature
changes (thermistor). It is installed in the engine coolant
system. Low coolant temperature causes high resis-
tance; 100,000 ohms at –40°C (–40°F). High tempera-
ture causes low resistance; 70 ohms at 130°C (266°F).
The ECM applies 5 volts to the coolant sensor and moni-
tors the voltage on a signal line. The sensor provides a
path to ground through its thermistor. The voltage will
be high when the engine is cold, and low when the en-
gine is hot. By monitoring the voltage, the ECM deter-
mines the engine coolant temperature. Engine coolant
temperature affects most of the ECM functions.
2
1
3
1. TEMPERATURE SENSOR
2. ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
3. LOCK TAB
FIGURE 13. COOLANT TEMPERATURE
SENSOR (CTS)

12
POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION
(See FIGURE 14.) A C
B
The Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system is
D
used as a vent for vapors from the crankcase. Clean air
from the air cleaner is supplied to the crankcase, mixed
with gases from the valve cover. This mixture then goes
through the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve
into the intake manifold. For correct engine idle, the
PCV valve restricts the flow when there is high vacuum
at the intake manifold.
The incorrect operation of the PCV system can be:
• Rough idle
• Stalling or slow idle speed
• High idle speed A. PCV VALVE
B. PCV VALVE
• Oil leak HOSE
C. AIR FILTER
• Oil in the air filter
D. CRANKCASE
VENT HOSE

CLEAN AIR
MIXTURE OF
AIR AND
FUMES

FIGURE 14. POSITIVE CRANKCASE

VENTILATION SYSTEM

13
 INTRODUCTION
GENERAL
This section has the description and operation of the
masts. Repair procedures for the masts are described in
the section, MASTS, REPAIR, 4000 SRM 522. The
description and repairs for the tilt cylinders are de-
scribed in the section THE TILT CYLINDERS, 2100
SRM 103.
The mast is used to lift a load vertically. The mast has
two movements controlled by hydraulic cylinders: for-
ward and backward tilt and the lifting and lowering of
the mast weldments and carriage. The outer weldment
can move on the pivot pins at the mast mounts. The op-
eration of the tilt cylinders causes the mast to tilt forward
and backward. The tilt cylinders are fastened between
the frame of the lift truck and the outer weldment of the
mast. Hydraulic lift cylinders are installed vertically on
the masts. The lift cylinders raise and lower the weld-
ments and the carriage. The hydraulic operation of the
lift cylinders and tilt cylinders is described in the MAIN
CONTROL VALVE section for your lift truck.
There are three types of masts available:
• two–stage, limited free–lift
• two–stage, full free–lift
• three–stage, full free–lift
Each type of mast is described separately in this section.
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
Carriages (See FIGURE 1.)
The carriage is a part of the mast assembly and moves
within the vertical channels of the inner weldment. Load
rollers, attached to the carriage, travel in the channels of
the inner weldment. Forks or other types of load han-
dling equipment are attached to the carriage. A load
backrest extension is attached to the carriage and adds
support for a load that has multiple pieces.
The side–shift carriage lets the operator move the forks
and load from side–to–side. This function makes it eas-
ier for the operator to align the forks with a load or align
the load with a stack. The side–shift carriage hangs on
the fork bars of the standard carriage. Special bushings
fit between the side–shift carriage and the fork bars. A
side–shift cylinder is installed on a plate that fits on the
standard carriage. The side–shift cylinder moves the
side–shift carriage on the standard carriage.

1 3
2 9

6 9 8
7
4

Side–shift Carriage

1. STANDARD CARRIAGE
2. TOP BAR
3. TOP BUSHING 7. BOTTOM BAR
4. CYLINDER MOUNTING BRACKET 8. FORKS Standard Carriage
5. BOTTOM BUSHING 9. LOAD BACKREST with Forks
6. SIDE–SHIFT CYLINDER EXTENSION
FIGURE 1. CARRIAGES
1
Mast Mounts (See FIGURE 2.)
The mast can tilt forward and backward. Tilt cylinders 2
8
are fastened between the frame of the lift truck and the
outer weldment of the mast to change the angle of the
mast and forks. On the H/E1.50–1.75XM,
H/E2.00XMS (H/S/E25–35XM, H/S/E40XMS) and 3 6
J1.60–2.00XMT (J30–40XMT), the mast pivots di- 7
rectly on the drive axle housing. The mounts are part of 4
a casting that includes the lower crossmember for the
outer channel. Each mount has a retainer cap that at- 5
taches the mast to the axle housing. Each mast mount 1
uses one bushing. There are no bushings used in the re-
tainer caps. On the S/E/J 2.00–3.00XL (S/E/J
40–60XL), the mast pivots directly on the drive axle S/E/J2.00–3.00XL
housing. The mounts are part of a casting that includes (S/E/J40–60XL)
the lower crossmember for the outer channel. Each
mount has a retainer cap that attaches the mast to the
axle housing. Each mast mount uses two bushings. On
the H/S/E/J2.00–3.20XM (H/S/E/J40–65XM), pivot 1. RETAINER CAP 5. BUSHING
2. SPACER 6. SHIMS
pins are installed in the drive axle hangers. The pivot 3. TILT CYLINDER 7. PIN
pins rotate in bushings in the hangers. The outer weld- 4. OUTER WELDMENT 8. ROD END
ment has mounts that fit on the pivot pins. Capscrews
hold the mast to the pivot pins.
3
9
2
9 12
2 6
6
3

1. RETAINER CAP 14
2. SPACER 8
3. TILT CYLINDER 8
4. OUTER WELDMENT 7
5. BUSHING 13 4 7
6. SHIMS
7. PIN 1 5
8. ROD END
9. O–RING
10. PIVOT PIN 11
11. DRIVE AXLE HANGER
(MAST MOUNT) 10
12. COTTER PIN
13. CAPSCREW
14. FLAT WASHER 4

H/E1.50–1.75XM, H/E2.00XMS (H/S/E25–35XM, H/S/E40XMS) H/S/E/J2.00–3.20XM

J1.60–2.00XMT (J30–40XMT) (H/S/E/J40–65XM)

2
TWO–STAGE MAST, LIMITED FREE–LIFT
Description And Operation
(See FIGURE 3. through FIGURE 5.) 2
3
The two–stage mast with limited free–lift has an outer
weldment, an inner weldment and two lift cylinders. At
the base of the inner weldment there is one load roller on
each side. These load rollers travel along the flanges in-
side the outer weldment. At the top of the outer weld-
ment there is also one load roller on each side. These
load rollers travel along the flanges on the outside of the
inner weldment. The angle of the load rollers permits
them to control the forces from the front, back and sides
of the mast. The strip bearings are installed at the top of
each outer channel. The strip bearings can be adjusted
by shims to help keep the correct clearance between the
outer weldment and the inner weldment. 1

The two single–stage lift cylinders are installed at the

back of the outer weldment. The base of each lift cylin- 4
der sits in a mount at the bottom crossmember on the
outer weldment. The top of each lift cylinder (cylinder
rods) fits into a guide at the top of the inner weldment.
Operation of the lift cylinders extends and retracts the
inner weldment.

Two lift chains move the carriage. The chains fasten to

mounts that are near the top of the lift cylinder shells.
The chains go up and over the chain sheaves and then
connect to the carriage. The chain sheaves are installed
at the top crossmember of the inner weldment. When the
lift cylinders extend, the lift chains transfer the force 5
from the lift cylinders to the carriage. The inner weld-
ment and carriage can raise a small amount before the
overall height of the mast increases. During lifting, the
inner weldment moves at the same speed of the lift cyl-
inders. The carriage moves at twice the speed of the in-
ner weldment.
H/S/E/J2.00–3.20XM
When the lift cylinders retract, the weight of the load, (H/S/E/J40–65XM)
carriage and inner weldment pushes the oil from the lift SHOWN
cylinders. The oil flows from the lowering control
valves in the lift cylinders, through the external lower- 1. OUTER WELDMENT
ing control valve and then to the hydraulic tank. 2. INNER WELDMENT
3. LIFT CHAIN
4. LIFT CYLINDER
Each cylinder has a check valve in the bottom of the rod
5. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE
assembly. When the cylinder is fully extended, oil above (EXTERNAL)
the piston is forced through the check valve. This action
allows the cylinder to fully extend. See FIGURE 5. FIGURE 3. TWO STAGE,
LIMITED FREE–LIFT MAST 3
 8
1. LIFT CYLINDER 4. TO/FROM MAIN CONTROL
2. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE VALVE
(INTERNAL) 5. OUTER WELDMENT
3. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE 6. INNER WELDMENT
(EXTERNAL) 7. LIFT CHAIN
1 8. CARRIAGE

2 1
2

8
1
5
3

4
FIGURE 4. OPERATION OF THE TWO–STAGE, LIMITED FREE–LIFT MAST

3 When the main lift cylinders retract, the hydraulic oil

flows out of the cylinder through the hydraulic port
(5) until the piston seal (7) moves past port (5).
During the last 20 mm of the retraction stroke, the
2
hydraulic oil must flow through the small orifice (6).
This action causes the cylinder rod to move much
4* more slowly at the end of the retraction stroke. This
cushion effect prevents a sudden stop at the end of
the lowering sequence which makes a smoother
operation during lowering. All masts in this section
use this design in the main lift cylinders.
5

TWO–STAGE LFL and THREE–STAGE FFL SHOWN

TWO–STAGE FFL IS SIMILAR
1. CYLINDER ROD
20 mm CUSHION 2. CYLINDER SHELL
7 3. PISTON
4. INTERNAL CHECK VALVE
6 5. HYDRAULIC PORT
6. ORIFICE
7. PISTON SEAL

* NOT USED ON THE TWO–STAGE FFL

FIGURE 5. CYLINDER CUSHION DURING LOWERING SEQUENCE, MAIN LIFT CYLINDER PISTON

4
TWO–STAGE MAST, FULL FREE–LIFT is fully extended, excess oil above the piston is forced
Description (See FIGURE 6.) through the check valve. This action allows the cylinder
to fully extend. See FIGURE 8.
The two–stage, full free–lift mast has an inner weld-
ment, an outer weldment and three single–stage lift cyl- The right hand main lift cylinder has an orifice system in
inders. It is called a full free–lift mast because the car- the bottom of the rod assembly. This system provides a
riage can travel to the top of the inner weldment without hydraulic cushion when the cylinder reaches the bottom
extending the inner weldment. The full free–lift mast of its stroke. See FIGURE 5.
has load roller and strip bearing arrangements the same
as the two–stage, limited free–lift mast.
1. OUTER WELDMENT
The two main lift cylinders are installed at the back of 2. INNER WELDMENT
the outer weldment. The base of each lift cylinder sits in 3. FREE–LIFT CHAIN
a mount at the bottom crossmember on the outer weld- 4. FREE–LIFT CYLINDER
ment. The top of each lift cylinder (cylinder rod) fits into 5. MAIN LIFT CYLINDER
a guide at the top of the inner weldment. The free–lift 6. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (EXTERNAL)
cylinder is installed in the inner weldment. Each of the
lift cylinders has an internal lowering control valve. A
single external lowering control valve is connected by
tubing to all the lift cylinders. 3
The free–lift chains connect at one end to the crossmem- 2
ber for the free–lift cylinder. Two chain sheaves are in-
stalled on a crosshead on the cylinder rod of the free–lift
cylinder. The chains then go over sheaves on the cross-
head and connect to the carriage.
Operation (See FIGURE 5., FIGURE 7. and
FIGURE 8.)
The three lift cylinders are connected by hoses and tub-
4
ing as shown in FIGURE 7. When the mast is extended,
oil flows from the main control valve to the base of the
main lift cylinders. The oil then flows through the left–
hand cylinder rod and through tubing to the base of the
free–lift cylinder. The free–lift cylinder raises only the
carriage. When the free–lift cylinder is fully extended, 1
the two main lift cylinders extend the inner weldment.
5
The free–lift cylinder extends first because it has less
weight to lift. When the load is lowered, the main lift
cylinders lower first because they have a greater load.
The oil flows from the main lift cylinders, through the
lowering control valves to the hydraulic tank. Oil from 6
the free–lift cylinder flows from the cylinder and
through tubing to the cylinder rod on the left side of the
mast. The oil then flows from the left–hand lift cylinder
to the hydraulic tank.
The free–lift cylinder must have 0.5 liter (0.5 qt) of oil H/S/E/J2.00–3.20XM
above the piston. This oil provides a hydraulic cushion (H/S/E/J40–65XM
when the cylinder reaches the top of its stroke. A check SHOWN
valve and orifice system in the bottom of the rod assem-
FIGURE 6. FULL FREE–LIFT MAST
bly keeps the oil at the correct level. When the cylinder
5
 1. RIGHT–HAND LIFT CYLINDER 6. TO/FROM MAIN CONTROL
2. LEFT–HAND LIFT CYLINDER VALVE 8 9 10
3. FREE–LIFT CYLINDER 7. OUTER WELDMENT
4. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE 8. INNER WELDMENT
(INTERNAL) 9. LIFT CHAIN
5. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE 10. CARRIAGE
(EXTERNAL)

1 3
2 8
9 10 3
7

3
7
4
4
10101
6
5
FIGURE 7. OPERATION OF THE TWO–STAGE, FULL FREE–LIFT MAST

1 There is hydraulic oil on the rod side of the

piston of the free–lift cylinder. There are two
3 holes in the cylinder rod, one larger than the
other, items (3) and (4). As the cylinder rod
2 extends, the hydraulic oil on the rod side flows to
the base of the cylinder through the larger hole
(3) and the internal check valve (6). When the
4 cylinder rod extends to the last 25 mm of its
stroke, the retainer at the top of the cylinder
closes the larger hole (3). During the last 25 mm
25 mm CUSHION of the cylinder stroke, the remainder of the
hydraulic oil must flow through the small orifice
(4) to the internal check valve (6). This action
increases the hydraulic pressure so that the
main lift cylinders begin to extend.
The hydraulic action at the end of the free–lift
stroke provides a cushion effect for the free–lift
cylinder and a smooth transition between the
free–lift phase and the channel extension phase.
All masts in this section with a free–lift cylinder
use this design.
1. CYLINDER ROD 4. ORIFICE (SMALLER HOLE)
2. CYLINDER SHELL 5. PISTON
6 5 3. LARGER HOLE 6, INTERNAL CHECK VALVE
FIGURE 8. CYLINDER PHASE DURING LIFTING SEQUENCE, FREE–LIFT CYLINDER PISTON

6
THREE–STAGE, FULL FREE–LIFT MAST
Description (See FIGURE 9.)
The three–stage mast has three weldments: outer, inter-
mediate, and inner. Two single–stage main lift cylinders
and a free–lift cylinder are used to raise the carriage and
extend the mast. It is called a full free–lift mast because
the carriage can travel to the top of the inner weldment
without extending the inner weldment. The weldments
are telescopic and have the load roller and strip bearing
arrangements similar to the two–stage mast. The two
main lift cylinders are installed at the back of the outer
weldment. The base of each lift cylinder sits in a mount
at the bottom crossmember of the outer weldment. The
top of each main lift cylinder (cylinder rod) fits into a
guide at the top crossmember of the intermediate weld-
ment. The free–lift cylinder is installed to the inner
weldment. Each lift cylinder has an internal lowering
control valve. A single external lowering control valve
is connected by tubing to all of the lift cylinders.
The two main lift chains are connected to mounts that
are welded near the top of the lift cylinder shells. The lift
chains then go over sheaves at the top of the intermedi-
ate weldment and fasten at the bottom of the inner weld-
ment.
The free–lift chains connect at one end to the crossmem-
ber for the free–lift cylinder. Two chain sheaves are in-
stalled on a crosshead on the cylinder rod of the free–lift
cylinder. The chains then go over sheaves on the cross-
head and connect to the carriage.
The free–lift cylinder must have 0.5 liter (0.5 qt) of oil
above the piston. This oil provides a hydraulic cushion
when the cylinder reaches the top of its stroke. A check
valve and orifice system in the bottom of the rod assem-
bly keeps the oil at the correct level. When the cylinder
is fully extended, excess oil above the piston is forced
through the check valve. This action allows the cylinder
to fully extend. See FIGURE 8.
Each main lift cylinder has an orifice system and a check
valve in the bottom of the rod assembly. When the cylin-
der is fully extended, excess oil between the rod end and
the gland is forced through the check valve. This action
allows the cylinder to fully extend. The orifice system
provides a hydraulic cushion when the cylinder reaches
the bottom of its stroke. See FIGURE 5.
1. OUTER WELDMENT
4
2. INTERMEDIATE
WELDMENT
3. INNER
WELDMENT
4. FREE–LIFT
CHAIN
5
3
2
6
1

Operation (See FIGURE 10.)

The three hydraulic cylinders are connected by hoses
and tubing as shown in FIGURE 10. To extend the mast,
oil from the main control valve flows to all cylinders at
the same time. The free–lift cylinder extends first be- 7
cause it lifts the least amount of weight. The free–lift
cylinder raises the carriage to the top of the inner weld-
ment. After the free–lift cylinder reaches the end of its 8
stroke, the main lift cylinders begin to extend. As the
main lift cylinders extend, the intermediate weldment is
H/S/E/J2.00–3.20XM
raised by the lift cylinders and the inner weldment is (H/S/E/J40–65XM)
raised by the lift chains. SHOWN
During lowering, the main lift cylinders lower first be- 5. MAIN LIFT CHAIN
cause they have a greater load. After the main lift cylin- 6. FREE–LIFT CYLINDER
ders have retracted, the free–lift cylinder lowers. All oil 7. MAIN LIFT CYLINDER
8. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (EXTERNAL)
from the lift cylinders flows through the lowering con-
trol valves to the hydraulic tank. FIGURE 9. THREE–STAGE MAST
7
 1 2 1 1. LIFT CYLINDER
2. FREE–LIFT CYLINDER 11 10
3. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE 8
(INTERNAL)
4. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE
(EXTERNAL)
3 5. TO/FROM MAIN CONTROL
VALVE
6. OUTER WELDMENT
3 7. INTERMEDIATE WELDMENT
8. INNER WELDMENT
9. MAIN LIFT CHAIN
2
10. CARRIAGE
4 11. FREE–LIFT CHAIN
9
5
10

6
7

2 6
1
10101
1

FIGURE 10. OPERATION OF THE THREE–STAGE, FULL FREE–LIFT MAST

8
 INTRODUCTION

GENERAL intervals specified in the MAINTENANCE SCHED-

This section has the repair procedures for the Two–
Stage, limited free–lift (LFL); Two–Stage, full free–lift
(FFL); and Three–Stage, full free–lift (FFL) masts and
for the side–shift carriage. Checks and Adjustments and
Troubleshooting are at the end of this section. See the
section MAST, DESCRIPTION, 4000 SRM 521, for
the description and operation of the masts.
NOTE: Hoses have a service life that is determined by
application and time. All hoses must be inspected at the
ULE for the hydraulic system. Install a new hose if the
hose is worn, damaged, soft, or hard and no longer flex-
ible. If necessary, make a comparison to a new hose that
is the correct replacement for the hose you are inspect-
ing.
WARNING
Before working on or near the mast, see SAFETY
PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE
MAST in this section.

SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST (1 OF 2)

The following procedures must be used when inspecting or working near the mast. Additional precautions
and procedures can be required when repairing or removing the mast.
WARNING Mast parts are heavy and can move. Distances between parts are small. Serious inju-
ry or death can result if part of the body is hit by parts of the mast or the carriage.
• Never put any part of the body into or under the mast or carriage unless all parts are completely
lowered or a safety chain is installed. Also make sure that the power is off and the key is removed.
Put a “DO NOT OPERATE” tag in the operator’s compartment.
• Be careful of the forks. When the mast is raised, the forks can be at a height to cause an injury.
• DO NOT climb on the mast or lift truck at any time. Use a ladder or personnel lift to work on the
mast.
• DO NOT use blocks to support the mast weldments nor to restrain their movement.
• Mast repairs require disassembly and removal of parts and can require removal of the mast or
carriage. Follow the repair procedures in the correct Service Manual for the mast.

WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST ALWAYS:

4
• Lower the mast and carriage completely. Push the 7
lift/lower control lever forward and make sure there is
no movement in the mast. Make sure that all parts of 6
the mast that move are fully lowered.
OR
• If parts of the mast must be in a raised position, in-
stall a safety chain to restrain the moving parts of the
mast. Connect moving parts to a part that does not
move. Follow these procedures: 1
a. Put the mast in a vertical position. 2
b. Raise the mast to align the bottom crossmember of the
TWO–STAGE
weldment that moves in the outer weldment with a
LFL MAST
crossmember on the outer weldment (1). On the two–
stage and free–lift mast, the moving part is the inner
weldment (2). On the three–stage mast it is the intermedi-
ate weldment (3).

1
 SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST (2 OF 2)
c. Use a 3/8 inch minimum safety chain with a hook (4) to fasten the crossmembers together so that the
movable member can not lower. Put the hook on the back side of the mast. Make sure the hook is com-
pletely engaged with a link in the chain. Make sure the safety chain does not touch lift chains or chain
sheaves, tubes, hoses, fittings or other parts on the mast.
d. Lower the mast until there is tension in the safety chain and the free–lift cylinder (5) (two–stage full
free–lift and three–stage masts only) is completely retracted. If running, stop the engine. Apply the
parking brake. Install a “DO NOT REMOVE” tag on the safety chain(s).
e. Install another safety chain (3/8 inch minimum) between the top or bottom crossmember of the car-
riage (6) and a crossmember on the outer weldment (7).
• After lowering or restraining the mast, shut off the power and remove the key. Put a “DO NOT OP-
ERATE” tag in the operator’s compartment.

4
5
5

1
4 6
6
1

3
THREE–STAGE
2 FFL MAST
TWO–STAGE
FFL MAST

REPAIRS

FORKS Removal
(See FIGURE 1. And FIGURE 2.)

The forks are held on the carriage by hooks. The forks
are kept in position by latches that fit through the top
fork hooks and into slots in the top crossmember of the
carriage. Always check that the latches for the forks
keep the forks in position on the carriage. Replace dam-
aged latch parts. The forks can be removed from the car-
riage by aligning the forks with the fork removal notch.
The fork removal notch is in the bottom crossmember of
the carriage.
2
WARNING
Do NOT try to remove a fork without a lifting device.
Each hook fork for these lift trucks can weigh 45 kg
to 115 kg (100 to 250 lb).
A fork can be removed from the carriage for replace-
ment of the fork or other maintenance. Slide a hook fork
to the fork removal notch on the carriage. See
FIGURE 1. and FIGURE 2. Lower the fork on to blocks
so that the bottom hook of the fork moves through the
fork removal notch. See FIGURE 2. Lower the carriage CARRIAGES
further so that the top hook of the fork is disengaged
Removal, Standard Carriage
from the top carriage bar. Move the carriage away from
(See FIGURE 2. and FIGURE 3.)
the fork, or use a lifting device to move the fork away
from the carriage. 1. Put a one–quarter capacity load on the forks. The load
must give the carriage stability so that the carriage can-
not fall when it is disconnected from the mast.
1. CARRIAGE
BARS 2. Lower the carriage and forks on blocks so that the lift
2. HOOK FORK chains become loose.
3. BLOCKS
1 WARNING
When disconnecting the lift chains, keep control of
2
the ends. Use wire to temporarily connect the ends of

ÉÉÉ ÉÉÉ the lift chains to the mast. This procedure will pre-

ÉÉÉ ÉÉÉ 3
vent the lift chains from falling from the sheaves and
causing an injury or damage.

FIGURE 1. REMOVE A HOOK FORK
Installation
Move the fork and carriage so that the top hook on the
fork can engage the upper carriage bar. Raise the car-
riage to move the lower hook through the fork removal
notch. Slide the fork on the carriage so that both upper
and lower hooks engage the carriage. Engage the lock
pin with a notch in the upper carriage bar.
3. Remove the pin from each chain anchor at the car-
riage. Disconnect the lift chains from the carriage. Use
wire to connect the ends of the lift chains to a part of the
mast. Make sure the chains can move freely when the in-
ner weldment is raised.
WARNING
Make sure that the carriage has stability when the in-
ner weldment is above the load rollers of the car-
riage.

3 6
6

2 7 7
5
5
8
8
9
9
1

1. FORKS
2. CARRIAGE
3. LOAD BACKREST 6. LEVER
EXTENSION 7. WASHER
4 4. FORK REMOVAL NOTCH 8. SPRING
5. LOCK PIN ASSEMBLY 9. PIN

FIGURE 2. CARRIAGE AND FORKS

3
 but do not remove them. The slotted holes will allow the
1. CARRIAGE
bottom carriage bar to move down so that the side–shift
2. SNAP RING
3. SHIM carriage can be removed. Carefully lift the side–shift
4 LOAD ROLLER carriage from the standard carriage. The side–shift cyl-
inder mounting bracket and cylinder will stay on the
1 standard carriage. Remove the bushings.

2 4. Disconnect the hydraulic lines at the side–shift cylin-

der. Put caps on the open hydraulic lines. Remove the
cylinder mounting bracket from the carriage. If neces-
sary, remove the threaded rods and shims to remove the
side–shift cylinder.
3
7 5
Repairs (See FIGURE 4. and FIGURE 5.)
1. If any of the load rollers must be replaced, make a note
6 2 of the location and number of the shims. Install the
4 shims, load rollers, and snap rings. See CHECKS AND
8 ADJUSTMENTS for correct adjustment of the load
2
rollers.
5. CHAIN ANCHOR 3 2
6. CHAIN PIN 4 NOTE: The carriage can have four or six load rollers.
7. COTTER PIN TWO–STAGE LFL
8. ANCHOR PIN CARRIAGE SHOWN
When the carriage has four load rollers, shims are used
behind all of the load rollers. When the carriage has six
FIGURE 3. CARRIAGE
load rollers, shims are installed on the bottom four roll-
4. Use the lift cylinders to raise the inner weldment. If ers only.
the hydraulic system cannot be used, disconnect the lift 2. Repair the side–shift cylinder as follows:
cylinders from the inner or intermediate weldment.
Connect a crane (the capacity of the crane must be at a. Remove the retainers from the shell. Pull the rod
least 681 kg {1 500 lb}) to the top of the inner weldment. from the shell.
Carefully raise the inner weldment until it is above the b. Replace seals, O–rings, or back up rings as neces-
load rollers of the carriage. sary.
5. Move the lift truck away from the carriage. Complete- c. Lubricate all internal parts with clean hydraulic oil.
ly lower the inner weldment so that it cannot move.
d. Install the piston and rod in the shell. Apply Loc-
6. Connect a lifting device to the carriage. Remove the tite 242 to the threads of the retainers. Install the re-
load from the forks with another lift truck. Lower the tainers and tighten them to 27 Nm (20 lbf ft).
carriage to the floor so that the load rollers are up.
7. If the forks are removed, use a lifting device to put the Installation, Standard Carriage
carriage on the floor so that the load rollers are up. 1. Use the hydraulic system of the lift truck or a crane to
raise the inner weldment. If the hydraulic system cannot
Removal, Side–Shift Carriage be used, disconnect the lift cylinders from the inner or
(See FIGURE 5.) intermediate weldment. Connect a crane (the capacity
1. Lower the carriage completely and remove the forks. of the crane must be at least 681 kg {1 500 lb}) to the top
of the inner weldment. Carefully raise the inner weld-
2. Connect a crane (the capacity of the crane must be at
ment until it is above the load rollers of the carriage.
least 681 kg {1 500 lb}) to the lifting eye on the side–
Move the lift truck toward the carriage until the inner
shift carriage.
weldment is aligned with the carriage rollers. Carefully
3. Remove the two upper capscrews from the bottom lower the inner weldment until it engages all of the load
carriage bar. Slowly loosen the two bottom capscrews, rollers.
4
 3. Connect the lift chains to the chain anchors at the car-
riage. Use new cotter pins in the anchor pins. Adjust the
2
3 lift chains as described in CHECKS AND ADJUST-
5 4
6 MENTS in this section.
8
Installation, Side–Shift Carriage
7
6 (See FIGURE 5.)
1. Install the side–shift cylinder in the bracket. Use an
equal number of shims on both sides of the cylinder to
limit side–to–side movement within the bracket. Maxi-
mum movement is 0.6 mm (0.024 in). Install the
5 threaded rods to hold the cylinder in position.
1 2 3 4
2. Install the cylinder mount bracket on the standard car-
riage. Make sure the mount bracket is engaged in the
1. SHELL 5. RETAINER
2. O–RING 6. WIPER notch in the top carriage bar. Connect the hydraulic lines
3. BACK–UP RING 7. PISTON AND ROD to the side–shift cylinder. Lubricate the ends of the cyl-
4. ROD SEAL 8. PISTON SEAL inder rod with multi–purpose grease.
FIGURE 4. SIDE–SHIFT CYLINDER 3. Install the top bushing on the mount bracket. Lubri-
2. Check the clearance of the load rollers. See cate the outer surface of the bushing with multi–purpose
CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS in this section. grease.

2
1
3
4

HYDRAULIC CONNECTIONS –
6 TWO–STAGE, FULL FREE–LIFT AND
THREE–STAGE, FULL FREE–LIFT

7 10

1. TOP BUSHING 6. GREASE FITTING

2. CYLINDER MOUNTING 7. TOP CARRIAGE BAR
BRACKET 8. BOTTOM BUSHING
3. THREADED ROD 9. BOTTOM CARRIAGE
4. SHIM BAR HYDRAULIC CONNECTIONS –
5. SIDE–SHIFT CYLINDER 10. LIFTING EYE TWO–STAGE, LIMITED FREE–LIFT

FIGURE 5. SIDE–SHIFT CARRIAGE

5
4. Connect the top and bottom carriage bars by installing
the two bottom capscrews. Do NOT tighten the cap-
screws. Lubricate the outer surface of the bottom bush-
ing with multi–purpose grease. Install the bottom bush-
ing in the bottom carriage bar.
5. Make sure the standard carriage is completely low-
ered. Connect a crane (the capacity of the crane must be
at least 908 kg {2 000 lb}) to the lifting eye. Install the
side–shift carriage on the standard carriage. Put blocks
under the bottom bar of the side–shift carriage so that the
bottom bushing moves tight against the standard car-
riage when the lifting device is lowered.
6. Install the two top capscrews into the side–shift car-
riage. On the H/S/E1.50–1.75XM, H/S/E2.00XMS (H/
S/E25–35XM, H/S/E40XMS); H/S/E/J2.00–2.75XM
(H/S/E/J40–55XM); S/E/J2.00–2.50XL (S/
E/J40–50XL); and J1.60–2.00XMT (J30–40XMT)
units, tighten all of the capscrews to 435 Nm (320 lbf ft).
On H/S/E/J3.00–3.20XM (H/S/E/J60–65XM) and S/
E/J3.00XL (S/E/J60XL) units, tighten all of the cap-
screws to 755 Nm (557 lbf ft).
7. Remove the lifting device. Lubricate the top bushing
at the grease fittings.
MAST
Removal (See FIGURE 6.)
NOTE: If the mast needs to be disassembled, remove
the forks and carriage. If only the lift cylinders need to
be removed for repair, the mast does not need to be re-
moved from the lift truck. See the procedures for the
LIFT CYLINDERS.
NOTE: The length of the lift chains must be checked
before the mast is removed. See Step 2 in Cleaning and
Inspection.
1. Fully lower all of the mast weldments and the car-
riage. Tilt the mast fully forward. Connect a crane (the
capacity of the crane must be at least 1 600 kg {3 500
lb}) to the top of the mast using chains. Make sure all the
weldments are fastened together. Make sure the chains
will not damage the sheaves, tubing, or other parts of the
mast.
2. Put a drain pan under the area of the hydraulic fittings.
Disconnect the hydraulic line at the external lowering
control valve on the outer weldment.
6
WARNING
Use a driver, NOT your fingers, to push the anchor
pins from the clevises on the tilt cylinders. The cylin-
der or mast can move and cause serious injury.
3. Remove the cotter pins and anchor pins or the caps-
crews, washers, and anchor pins at the tilt cylinder
mounts on the mast.
4. On the H/S/E/J2.00–3.20XM (H/S/E/J40–65XM) re-
move the capscrews that hold the mast to the pivot pins
at the mounts. On the H/S/E1.50–1.75XM, H/
S/E2.00XMS (H/S/E25–35XM, H/S/E40XMS);
J1.60–2.00XMT (J30–40XMT); and S/
E/J2.00–3.00XL (S/E/J40–60XL) remove the caps-
crews that hold the retainer caps to the mast mounts.
5. Use the crane to lift the mast assembly from the lift
truck. Put the mast on the floor so that the back of the
mast is toward the floor.
Disassembly, Two–Stage LFL And Two–Stage
FFL Masts (See FIGURE 7. And FIGURE 8.)
NOTE: If only the lift cylinders need to be removed and
repaired, see the procedures for the LIFT CYL-
INDERS. When the mast has header hoses, see the pro-
cedures for the HEADER HOSE.
1. Clean the area around the hydraulic fittings for the lift
cylinders. Disconnect the fittings at the lift cylinders
and put caps on the open lines.
NOTE: On the two–stage FFL mast, remove the brack-
ets and disconnect the hydraulic line for the free–lift cyl-
inder. Remove the free–lift cylinder. Disconnect the
free–lift chains at the crossmember.
WARNING
Be careful when removing or installing snap rings.
These snap rings can come loose during removal or
installation with enough force to cause an injury. Al-
ways use the correct snap ring pliers and wear eye
and face protection during removal or installation.
2. Remove the snap rings and washers from the top of
each main lift cylinder. Remove the nut, bolt, and spacer
at the mount near the top of each main lift cylinder. Dis-
connect the main lift chains at the mounts.
NOTE: On the H/S/E/J2.00–3.20XM (H/S/
E/J40–65XM) and S/E/J2.00–3.00XL (S/E/J40–60XL)
two–stage FFL mast, remove the hydraulic fitting from
the top of the left–hand main lift cylinder. On the H/ 2
8
S/E1.50–1.75XM, H/S/E2.00XMS (H/S/E25–35XM,
H/S/E40XMS) and J1.60–2.00XMT (J30–40XMT)
two–stage FFL masts, remove the hydraulic fitting
from the top of the right–hand main lift cylinder. 3 6

3. Slide the outer weldment from the inner weldment 7

4
approximately 30 cm (12 in) to disengage the main lift
cylinders from the inner weldment. Remove the main 5
lift cylinders from the outer weldment.
1
WARNING
The weldments can slide when the mast is moved. A
S/E/J2.00–3.00XL
weldment that slides can cause injury.
(S/E/J40–60XL)
4. Slide the inner weldment from the bottom of the
outer weldment approximately 30 cm (12 in). Remove
the strip bearings and load rollers from the outer weld-
ment. Remove the load rollers from the inner weld-
1. RETAINER CAP 5. BUSHING
ment. Make a note of each shim arrangement and load 2. SPACER 6. SHIMS
roller location. The shim arrangements will be ap- 3. TILT CYLINDER 7. PIN
proximately the same during assembly. 4. OUTER WELDMENT 8. ROD END

3
9
2
9 12
2 6
6
3

1. RETAINER CAP 14
2. SPACER 8
3. TILT CYLINDER 8
4. OUTER WELDMENT 7
5. BUSHING 13 4 7
6. SHIMS
7. PIN 1 5
8. ROD END
9. O–RING
10. PIVOT PIN 11
11. DRIVE AXLE HANGER
(MAST MOUNT) 10
12. COTTER PIN
13. CAPSCREW
14. FLAT WASHER 4

H/S/E1.50–1.75XM, H/S/E2.00XMS (H/S/E25–35XM, H/S/E40XMS) H/S/E/J2.00–3.20XM

J1.60–2.00XMT (J30–40XMT) (H/S/E/J40–65XM)
FIGURE 6. MAST MOUNTING

7
 4 1. OUTER WELDMENT
3 5
6 2. LOAD ROLLER
2 3. SHIM
7 4. SNAP RING
4 5. O–RING
6. SHIM(S)
7. STRIP BEARING
10 8. WASHER
8

1 4
11
8
9 17

18
14
19

13 20
19

21

9
4

5 3
9. LIFT CYLINDER 12
10. LIFT CHAIN
15
11. CHAIN ANCHOR
12. LOWERING CONTROL
VALVE (INTERNAL) 16
13. SPRING
12
14. STAR WASHER 2
15. HOUSING
3
16. LOWERING CONTROL
VALVE (EXTERNAL) 4
17. INNER WELDMENT
18. SET SCREW (2) 2
19. SPACER
20. CHAIN SHEAVE
21. PIN

FIGURE 7. TWO–STAGE, LIMITED FREE–LIFT MAST H/S/E/J2.00–3.20XM (H/S/E/J40–65XM) AND

S/E/J2.00–3.00XL (S/E/J40–60XL) (1 Of 2)

8
 1. OUTER WELDMENT
4 5 2. LOAD ROLLER
6 3. SHIM
3 4. SNAP RING
7 10 5. O–RING
6. SHIM(S)
7. STRIP BEARING
8. WASHER
9. LIFT CYLINDER
1 10. LIFT CHAIN
2 4 11 11. CHAIN ANCHOR
8 12. LOWERING CONTROL
3 VALVE (INTERNAL)
13. SPRING
9 14. STAR WASHER
20
15. HOUSING

4
15 18
16 19
4
20 12 4
9

17
12
3 4

15 14
13
2
3 2
21 4

16
20
16. LOWERING CONTROL
20 VALVE (EXTERNAL)
20 17. INNER WELDMENT
18. CHAIN SHEAVE
OLDER TRUCKS 19. BEARING
20. HOSE
21. PLUG

FIGURE 7. TWO–STAGE, LIMITED FREE–LIFT MAST H/S/E1.50–1.75XM, H/S/E2.00XMS (H/

S/E25–35XM, H/S/E40XMS) and J1.60–2.00XMT (J30–40XMT) (2 Of 2)

9
 4
3 5 6 1. OUTER WELDMENT
2 2. LOAD ROLLER
7 3. SHIM
5 4. SNAP RING
5. O–RING
6. SHIM(S)
4 7. STRIP BEARING
4 8. WASHER
1 9 9. LEFT–HAND LIFT
8 CYLINDER

12
11
16

17

10
18

5 3
4
14

15
10. RIGHT–HAND LIFT
CYLINDER 19
11. STAR WASHER 13
3 2
12. SPRING
13. LOWERING CONTROL
VALVE (INTERNAL)
14. HOUSING
15. LOWERING CONTROL 2 20
VALVE (EXTERNAL) 4
16. INNER WELDMENT
17. LIFT CHAIN
18. CHAIN ANCHOR
19. FREE–LIFT CYLINDER
13
20. CYLINDER BRACKET

FIGURE 8. TWO–STAGE, FULL FREE–LIFT MAST H/S/E/J2.00–3.20XM (H/S/E/J40–65XM) and

S/E/J2.00–3.00XL (S/E/J40–60XL) (1 Of 2)

10
 1. OUTER WELDMENT 7. STRIP BEARING
2. LOAD ROLLER 8. WASHER
3. SHIM 9. LEFT–HAND LIFT CYLINDER
4 4. SNAP RING 10. RIGHT–HAND LIFT CYLINDER
5 6 5. O–RING 11. STAR WASHER
2 7
6. SHIM(S) 12. SPRING

9
3 4
8

16
14

24 15

12 21 18
11 10 13
21

22 23
1 13

17

14 19
2
3

24

15 21
20
4
21 21

OLDER TRUCKS
18. CHAIN ANCHOR
13. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (INTERNAL) 19. FREE–LIFT CYLINDER
14. HOUSING 20. CYLINDER BRACKET
15. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (EXTERNAL) 21. HOSE
16. INNER WELDMENT 22. CROSSHEAD
17. LIFT CHAIN 23. CHAIN GUARD
24. PLUG

FIGURE 8. TWO–STAGE, FULL FREE–LIFT MAST H/S/E1.50–1.75XM, H/S/E2.00XMS (H/S/E25–35XM,

H/S/E40XMS) and J1.60–2.00XMT (J30–40XMT) (2 Of 2)

11
5. Slide the inner weldment half–way out of the top of
the outer weldment. Connect a crane (the capacity of the
crane must be at least 681 kg {1 500 lb}) to the center of
the inner weldment. See FIGURE 9. Slide the inner
weldment out of the outer weldment until the stub shafts
are in the notches of the channels. Remove the inner
weldment from the outer weldment.
6. Remove the chain sheaves and disassemble them as
necessary for repair and cleaning.
FIGURE 9. INNER WELDMENT
Disassembly, Three–Stage FFL Mast (See
FIGURE 10.)
1. Disconnect and remove the hydraulic lines for the
free–lift cylinder. Remove the brackets for the free–lift
cylinder. Remove the free–lift cylinder. Disconnect the
free–lift chains at the crossmember.
2. Disconnect the main lift chains from the chain an-
chors near the top of the main lift cylinders. Disconnect
the other end of the main lift chains at the bottom of the
inner weldment. Push the inner weldment toward the
bottom of the mast assembly until the bottom load roll-
ers are seen.
WARNING
The weldments can slide when the mast is moved. A
weldment that slides can cause injury. Use a crane to
turn the mast slowly and carefully.
3. Remove the strip bearings at the top of the intermedi-
ate weldment. Remove the load rollers at the bottom of
the inner weldment. Remove the load rollers at the top of
the intermediate weldment. Make a note of each shim
arrangement and load roller location. The shim arrange-
ments will be approximately the same during assembly.
4. Slide the inner weldment half–way out of the top of
the intermediate weldment. Connect a crane to the cen-
12
ter of the inner weldment. See FIGURE 9. Slide the in-
ner weldment out of the intermediate weldment until the
stub shafts are in the notches of the intermediate weld-
ment. Remove the inner weldment from the intermedi-
ate weldment.
WARNING
Be careful when removing or installing snap rings.
These snap rings can come loose during removal or
installation with enough force to cause an injury. Al-
ways use the correct snap ring pliers and wear eye
and face protection during removal or installation.
5. Remove the snap rings and washers at the top of the
main lift cylinders. Remove the nut, bolt, and spacer at
the mount near the top of each main lift cylinder.
6. Push the intermediate weldment to disengage the lift
cylinders. Remove the lift cylinders.
7. Slide the intermediate weldment from the bottom of
the outer weldment approximately 30 cm (12 in). Re-
move the strip bearings at the top of the outer weldment.
Remove the snap rings and load rollers from both weld-
ments. Make a note of each shim arrangement and load
roller location. The shim arrangements will be approxi-
mately the same during assembly.
8. Slide the intermediate weldment half–way out of the
top of the outer weldment. Connect a crane (the capac-
ity of the crane must be at least 681 kg {1 500 lb}) to the
center of the intermediate weldment. See FIGURE 9.
Slide the intermediate weldment out of the outer weld-
ment until the stub shafts are in the notches of the outer
weldment. Remove the intermediate weldment from the
outer weldment.
9. Disassemble the chain sheaves as necessary for repair
and cleaning. Remove the hydraulic lines and fittings
from the weldments as necessary.
Cleaning and Inspection
1. Inspect the chain sheaves and load rollers for wear or
damage. Do NOT use steam to clean the lift chains,
sheaves, or load rollers. The bearings in the sheaves and
load rollers are sealed and lubricated.
WARNING
Cleaning solvents may be flammable and toxic, and
can cause severe skin irritation. When using clean-
ing solvents, always follow the solvent manufactur-
er’s recommended safety precautions.
2. Clean the lift chains with solvent. Remove all dirt and
grease. Inspect the lift chains for wear or damage. The
lift chains must be installed on the mast before they can
be checked for length. A lift chain becomes longer when
it is worn. If a chain is 3% longer than a new lift chain,
the lift chain must be replaced. If a chain scale is avail-
able, check the lift chain as shown in FIGURE 11. If a
chain scale is not available, measure 20 links of the lift
chain. Compare the measurement with the lengths given
in FIGURE 11. Lubricate the chains with SAE 30 en-
gine oil. The best procedure is to soak them in engine oil.

1. OUTER WELDMENT
2. LOAD ROLLER
3 4 5 6 3. SHIM
2 7 4. SNAP RING
5. O–RING
10 6. SHIM(S)
7. STRIP BEARING
8. WASHER

19
4
18
8
11
6

16

17
12

1 9 20

13
14 21
15
22
13 2
9. MAIN LIFT CYLINDER
10. LIFT CHAIN
11. STAR WASHER 20
12. SPRING 3 23
13. LOWERING CONTROL 4 3
VALVE (INTERNAL)
14. HOUSING 4 5
15. LOWERING CONTROL
VALVE (EXTERNAL)
16. CHAIN SHEAVE 19. HOSE SHEAVE
17. INTERMEDIATE WELDMENT 20. CHAIN ANCHOR 2 13
18. FREE–LIFT CYLINDER HOSE 21. INNER WELDMENT
19. HOSE SHEAVE 22. FREE–LIFT CYLINDER
18. FREE–LIFT CYLINDER HOSE 23. CYLINDER BRACKET

FIGURE 10. THREE–STAGE, FULL FREE–LIFT MAST H/S/E/J2.00–3.20XM (H/S/E/J40–65XM) and

S/E/J2.00–3.00XL (S/E/J40–60XL) (1 Of 2)

13
 10
2 4 5
6
7

1
8 4 19
3 6

14 16
21
15

13 9
9
20
13
20

14 11
12 20
22 23
3
17
15
2
2
4 4
OLDER TRUCKS 18
3

23

1. OUTER WELDMENT 13. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (INTERNAL)

2. LOAD ROLLER 14. HOUSING
3. SHIM 15. LOWERING CONTROL VALVE (EXTERNAL)
4. SNAP RING 16. CHAIN SHEAVE
5. O–RING 17. INTERMEDIATE WELDMENT
6. SHIM(S) 18. FREE–LIFT CYLINDER HOSE
7. STRIP BEARING 19. HOSE SHEAVE
8. WASHER 20. CHAIN ANCHOR
9. MAIN LIFT CYLINDER 21. INNER WELDMENT
10. LIFT CHAIN 22. FREE–LIFT CYLINDER
11. STAR WASHER 23. CYLINDER BRACKET
12. SPRING

FIGURE 10. THREE–STAGE, FULL FREE–LIFT MAST H/S/E1.50–1.75XM, H/S/E2.00XMS (H/

S/E25–35XM, H/S/E40XMS) and J1.60–2.00XMT (J30–40XMT) (2 Of 2)

14
 WARNING WARNING
Never replace just the worn section of a chain. Re- Wrong welding procedures can damage the struc-
place the complete chain. Never replace just one ture of the mast or cause wrong operation of the
chain of a chain pair. Replace both chains. mast. Obtain information from your Hyster lift
truck dealer before welding on the mast.
3. Inspect the chain anchors and pins. Replace any parts
Assembly, Two–Stage LFL And Two–Stage
that are worn or damaged.
FFL Mast (See FIGURE 7. And FIGURE 8.)
WARNING NOTE: The shims for the load rollers keep the weld-
Be careful when cleaning with steam. Steam can ments parallel and give correct clearance. During as-
cause serious burns. Wear protective clothing, sembly, the shim arrangement will be approximately the
gloves, and eye protection. Never expose your skin to same as before disassembly. Check the clearance and
steam. adjust the shims for wear or for changes caused by re-
pairs. The strip bearings are also adjusted by using
4. Clean the mast weldments with steam or solvent. shims. See CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS in this
section for the adjustment procedures.
5. Inspect the sliding surfaces for wear or damage. In-
spect the load roller contact surfaces for wear or dam- NOTE: When the mast has header hoses, see the proce-
age. Inspect all welds for cracks. dures for the HEADER HOSES.
1. Connect a crane (the capacity of the crane must be at
pitch
least 681 kg {1 500 lb}) to the center of the inner weld-
Total length of WEAR LIMIT ment. Fit the stub shafts through the notches in the outer
20 links(pitch) The maximum
of new chain length of 20 links weldment. Slide the inner weldment into the outer weld-
ment so that the stub shafts are seen at the top and bottom
mm (inch) mm (inch) mm (inch)
of the weldments.
12.7 (0.50) 254.0 (10.0) 261.6 (10.3) 2. See FIGURE 12. Install the strip bearings and the
15.9 (0.63) 317.5 (12.5) 327.0 (12.9)
19.1 (0.75) 381.0 (15.0) 392.4 (15.6) shims on the outer weldment. Apply grease to the bear-
25.4 (1.00) 508.0 (20.0) 523.3 (20.6) ing surface. Check the clearance of the strip bearings as
described in CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS.
3. Install the load rollers and shims on both weldments.
Check the clearance of the load rollers as described in
CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS.
1 4. Install the main lift cylinders as follows:
a. On the two–stage LFL mast, push the inner weld-
ment to engage the rods of the lift cylinders and install
the washer and snap ring.
b. On the H/S/E/J2.00–3.20XM (H/S/E/J40–65XM)
and S/E/J2.00–3.00XL (S/E/J40–60XL) two–stage
FFL mast, install the washers at the top of the right–
hand cylinder. Push the inner weldment to engage the
rods of the lift cylinders. Check the clearance at the top
of the lift cylinder mounts. Add or remove washers at
12174
the right–hand cylinder until it is even with the left–
hand cylinder. Install the snap ring at the top of the
1. CHAIN WEAR SCALE
right–hand lift cylinder. Install the hydraulic fitting on
NOTE: The instructions for measuring chain the left–hand cylinder.
wear are shown on the Chain Wear Scale.
FIGURE 11. CHECK THE LIFT CHAINS c. On the H/S/E1.50–1.75XM, H/S/E2.00XMS (H/
S/E25–35XM, H/S/E40XMS) and J1.60–2.00XMT
15
 (J30–40XMT) two–stage FFL masts, install the wash-
ers at the top of the left–hand cylinder. Push the inner
weldment to engage the rods of the lift cylinders.
Check the clearance at the top of the lift cylinder
mounts. Add or remove washers at the left–hand cylin-
der until it is even with the right–hand cylinder. Install
the snap ring at the top of the left–hand lift cylinder.
Install the hydraulic fitting on the right–hand cylinder.
5. Install the spacers, nuts, and bolts at the mounts for the
lift cylinders. Tighten the bolts to 53 Nm (40 lbf ft).
6. Install the housing for the lowering control valve on
the outer weldment. Tighten the nuts for the lowering
control valve to 18 Nm (13 lbf ft). Install the lowering
control valve in the housing. Connect the hydraulic lines
and fittings between the lowering control valve and the
main lift cylinders.
10121
FIGURE 12. STRIP BEARINGS
7. On the two–stage LFL mast, install the chain sheaves
at the inner weldment. On the H/S/E/J2.00–3.20XM (H/
S/E/J40–65XM) and S/E/J2.00–3.00XL (S/
E/J40–60XL), be sure to install both set screws that hold
the shaft for the chain sheave in position. Tighten the set
screws to 8 Nm (71 lbf in). Connect the lift chains to the
chain anchors at the main lift cylinder mounts. Attach
wires between the ends of the lift chains and the
crossmember to control the lift chains during mast
installation.
8. On the two–stage FFL mast:
a. Install the free–lift cylinder in the mounts on the in-
ner weldment. Install the brackets for the cylinder and
tighten the bolts to 53 Nm (40 lbf ft).
b. Install the tubing and brackets that connect the
free–lift cylinder to the main lift cylinder.
16
c. Connect the free–lift chains to the chain anchors at
the crossmember. Attach a wire between the end of the
lift chain and the bottom of the mast to control the lift
chain during installation.
Assembly, Three–Stage FFL Mast
(See FIGURE 10.)
NOTE: The shims for the load rollers keep the weld-
ments parallel and give correct clearance. During as-
sembly, the shim arrangement will be approximately the
same as before disassembly. Check the clearance and
adjust the shims for wear or for changes caused by re-
pairs. The strip bearings are also adjusted by using
shims. See CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS in this
section for the adjustment procedures.
NOTE: When the mast has header hoses, see the proce-
dures for the HEADER HOSES.
1. Put the outer weldment on the floor with the mast piv-
ots toward the floor. Connect a crane (the capacity of the
crane must be at least 681 kg {1 500 lb}) to the center of
the intermediate weldment. Fit the lower stub shafts of
the intermediate weldment into the notches in the top of
the outer weldment. Slide the intermediate weldment
into the outer weldment so that the stub shafts are seen at
the top and bottom of both weldments.
2. Install the strip bearings and the shims on the channels
of the outer weldment. See FIGURE 12. Apply grease
to the bearing surfaces. Check the clearance of the strip
bearings as described in CHECKS AND ADJUST-
MENTS.
3. Install the load rollers and the shims on the outer
weldment and at the bottom of the intermediate weld-
ment. Before doing the next step, adjust the intermediate
weldment and check the clearance of the load rollers as
described in CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS.
4. Install the main lift cylinders. Push the intermediate
weldment to engage the lift cylinders. Check the clear-
ance at the top of the lift cylinder mounts. Add or re-
move washers at the top of the cylinder rods until they
are even. Install the snap ring and washer at the top of the
lift cylinders.
5. Install the housing for the lowering control valve on
the outer weldment. Tighten the nuts for the lowering
control valve to 18 Nm (13 lbf ft). Install the lowering
control valve in the housing. Connect the hydraulic lines
and fittings between the lowering control valve and the
main lift cylinders.
6. Install the chain sheaves at the intermediate weld-
ment. On the H/S/E/J2.00–3.20XM (H/S/
E/J40–65XM) and S/E/J2.00–3.00XL (S/
E/J40–60XL), be sure to install both set screws that hold
the shaft for the chain sheave in position. Tighten the set
screws to 8 Nm (71 lbf in).
7. Install the spacers, washers, nuts, and bolts at the
mounts for the main lift cylinders. Tighten the bolts to
53 Nm (40 lbf ft).
8. Connect a crane (the capacity of the crane must be at
least 681 kg {1 500 lb}) to the center of the inner weld-
ment. Slide the inner weldment into the intermediate
weldment so that the stub shafts are seen at the top and
bottom of both weldments.
9. Install the strip bearings and the shims on the channels
of the intermediate weldment. Apply grease to the bear-
ing surfaces. Install the load rollers and the shims on the
intermediate and inner weldments. Before doing the
next step, adjust the inner weldment as described in
CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS.
10. Connect the main lift chains to the chain anchors at
the main lift cylinder mounts. Put the lift chains over the
chain sheaves and connect them to the anchors at the
bottom of the inner weldment.
11. Install the free–lift cylinder in the mounts on the in-
ner weldment. Install the brackets for the cylinder and
tighten the nuts to 38 Nm (28 lbf ft). On the three–stage
FFL mast, the nuts are installed on the bracket side of the
free–lift cylinder.
12. Install the hose sheave for the free–lift cylinder.
Tighten the capscrew for the hose sheave to 66 Nm (49
lbf ft). Install the hydraulic hose and tubing for the free–
lift cylinder.
13. Connect the free–lift chains to the chain anchors at
the crossmember. Attach a wire between the end of the
lift chain and the bottom of the mast to control the lift
chain during mast installation.
Installation, Mast
1. On the H/S/E/J2.00–3.20XM (H/S/E/J40–65XM),
lubricate the pivot pins and install them into the mounts
at the drive axle hanger. On the H/S/E1.50–1.75XM, H/
S/E2.00XMS (H/S/E25–35XM, H/S/E40XMS);
J1.60–2.00XMT (J30–40XMT); and S/
E/J2.00–3.00XL (S/E/J40–60XL), lubricate the bush-
ings and install them into the mounts on the mast.
2. Connect a crane (the capacity of the crane must be at
least 1 600 kg {3 500 lb}) to the top of the mast using
chains. Make sure all the weldments are fastened to-
gether. Make sure the chains will not damage the
sheaves, tubing, or other parts of the mast.
3. Use the crane to install the mast assembly:
a. On the H/S/E/J2.00–3.20XM (H/S/E/J40–65XM)
install the mast on the pivot pins. Install the capscrews
that hold the mast to the pivot pins. Tighten the cap-
screws to 90 Nm (66 lbf ft).
b. On the H/S/E1.50–1.75XM, H/S/E2.00XMS (H/
S/E25–35XM, H/S/E40XMS); S/E/J2.00–3.00XL (S/
E/J40–60XL); and J1.60–2.00XMT (J30–40XMT)
install the mast on the drive axle. Install the capscrews
and bushings that hold the retainer caps and mast as-
sembly to the drive axle. Tighten the capscrews to 90
Nm (66 lbf ft).
4. Connect the tilt cylinders to the mast. Install the an-
chor pins and/or cotter pins, washers, or capscrews.
5. Connect the hydraulic line to the lowering control
valve.
6. Install the carriage as described in the procedures for
the CARRIAGE.
3 1 2 11632
2
2
UPPER LOAD LOWER LOAD
ROLLERS ROLLERS
1. LUBRICATE STRIP BEARINGS SURFACES
2. LUBRICATE LOAD ROLLER SURFACES
3. LOAD ROLLER
FIGURE 13. LUBRICATE THE MAST
7. Check the tilt cylinder adjustment as described in
CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS. Operate the mast
and check for leaks and correct operation. Check the lift
chains as described in CHECKS AND ADJUST-
MENTS.
17
8. Lubricate the sliding surfaces and the load roller sur-
faces along the full length of the channels as shown in
FIGURE 13. Apply lubricant only to the surfaces indi-
cated.
NOTE: The load rollers and sheaves have sealed bear-
ings and do not need additional lubrication.
LIFT CYLINDERS
WARNING
Before working on or near the mast, see SAFETY
PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE
MAST in this section.
Removal, Main–Lift Cylinders
(See FIGURE 7., FIGURE 8., And FIGURE 10.)
NOTE: The following procedures are for the removal
of the lift cylinders with the mast installed on the lift
truck.
1. Remove the carriage as described in the procedures
for the CARRIAGE.
2. Raise the mast until it is almost fully extended. Use
safety chains to connect the bottom crossmember of the
inner weldment (two–stage) or intermediate weldment
(three–stage) to the top crossmember of the outer weld-
ment. On the three–stage mast, use a safety chain to con-
nect the bottom crossmember to a crossmember on the
intermediate or outer weldment. Lower the mast so that
the safety chains hold the weight of the weldments.
WARNING
Be careful when removing or installing snap rings.
These snap rings can come loose during removal or
installation with enough force to cause an injury. Al-
ways use the correct snap ring pliers and wear eye
and face protection during removal or installation.
3. Remove the snap ring or fitting at the top of the lift
cylinder that needs to be removed.
4. Put a drain pan under the area of the hydraulic fittings.
Disconnect the hydraulic line at the cylinder. Retract the
rod into the lift cylinder.
5. Remove the nut, bolt, and spacer at the mount. Dis-
connect the main lift chain at the mount.
6. Remove the lift cylinder from the front of the mast.
Use a lifting device as necessary.
18
Removal, Free–Lift Cylinder
(See FIGURE 8. And FIGURE 10.)
1. Remove the carriage as described in the procedures
for the CARRIAGE. Lower the mast completely.
2. Put a drain pan under the area of the hydraulic fittings.
Disconnect the hydraulic line at the cylinder.
3. Remove the brackets for the free–lift cylinder. Re-
move the free–lift cylinder.
NOTE: There are spacers located above and below the
crosshead on later models on the H/S/E/J2.00–3.20XM
(H/S/E/J40–65XM) and S/E/J2.00–3.00XL (S/
E/J40–60XL). Make a note of the number of spacers in
each location.
4. See FIGURE 15. Remove the crosshead from the cyl-
inder rod. Disassemble the crosshead as necessary.
Disassembly, Lift Cylinders (See FIGURE 14.,
FIGURE 16., FIGURE 17., and FIGURE 18.)
CAUTION
Carefully disassemble the lift cylinders so that the
piston rods and sliding surfaces are not damaged.
NOTE: Disassembly of the main lift cylinders and the
free–lift cylinder is similar, but all cylinders cannot be
completely disassembled. All of the lift cylinders are
disassembled from the rod end of the cylinder shell.
1. Loosen the retainer with a spanner. Remove the re-
tainer from the shell.
2. Pull the rod and piston assembly from the shell. Drain
the hydraulic oil into a container.
3. Remove the retainer from the piston rod. Remove and
discard the O–rings, seals, and wear rings.
WARNING
Be careful when removing or installing snap rings.
These snap rings can come loose during removal or
installation with enough force to cause an injury. Al-
ways use the correct snap ring pliers and wear eye
and face protection during removal or installation.
4. Remove the snap ring, washer, and check valve from
the base of the piston.
5. Clean all the parts. Check the sliding surfaces for
damage. Repair or replace any damaged parts.
 3
3
4
4

5
5
10*11*
10* 11* 6
6
7 1
7
1

2
1. SHELL
2. ROD AND PISTON
3. WIPER * H/S/E/J2.00–3.20XM
4. ROD SEAL (H/S/E/J40–65XM )
5. RETAINER and S/E/J2.00–3.00XL
6. BACK–UP RING (S/E/J40–60XL)
7. O–RING
8. WEAR RING
9. PISTON RING
8 10. SCREW* 8
11. SEALING WASHER* 9

RIGHT–HAND CYLINDER LEFT–HAND CYLINDER

FIGURE 14. MAIN LIFT CYLINDERS – TWO–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT MAST
Assembly, Lift Cylinders (See FIGURE 14., wards the base of the piston. Install the washer and snap
FIGURE 16., FIGURE 17., and FIGURE 18.) ring for the check valve.

CAUTION
See FIGURE 14. and FIGURE 18. The correct screw
(10) and washer (11) must be used in this location.
The wrong parts will cause leaks or damage the
cylinder. See your HYSTER lift truck dealer for the
correct parts.
1. Lubricate all internal parts of the lift cylinder with
clean hydraulic oil or packing lubricant, Hyster Part No.
186061. Use new O–rings, seals, and wear rings.
2. Install the check valve and O–ring in the base of the
piston. Make sure the arrow on the check valve is to-
CAUTION
A difficult and important step in assembling lift
cylinders is the correct installation of the seals. Most
lift cylinder maintenance is caused by seal leaks. Do
not damage any parts during assembly.
3. Install the wear ring, piston seal, and back–up ring on
to the piston assembly. If a spacer is used, install it.
4. Carefully push the piston and rod assembly into the
shell.
5. Install the rod seal ring and wiper into the retainer.
Install the O–ring and back–up ring on the outside of the
retainer.
19
 4 17
3 9 1
5 11 16
5
4 2 15
4
3

2 14
6
9 13

12
1
4
10
8 7

3
9
1. LIFT CHAIN 6. BEARING 8
2. CHAIN SHEAVE 7. PIN
3. CHAIN GUARD 8. FREE–LIFT
4. SNAP RING CYLINDER
5. CROSSHEAD 9. SPACER 7

FIGURE 15. CROSSHEAD ASSEMBLY, 6

1. SHELL
TWO–STAGE AND THREE–STAGE FFL MAST 2. SNAP RING
3. WASHER
4. O–RING 10. ROD
6. Carefully install the retainer on the piston rod. 5. CHECK VALVE 11. SPACER
6. PISTON RING 12. O–RING
7. (Free–lift cylinder only) Raise the rod end of the cyl- (THREE–STAGE 13. WEAR RING
FFL ONLY) 14. RETAINER
inder so that 0.5 litre (0.5 qt) of hydraulic oil can be 7. WEAR RING 15. SEAL
poured into the cylinder on top of the piston. This oil 8. SEAL 16. BACK–UP RING
provides a hydraulic cushion when the cylinder reaches 9. BACK–UP RING 17. WIPER
the top of its stroke. FIGURE 16. MAIN LIFT CYLINDERS,
TWO–STAGE LIMITED FREE–LIFT AND
8. Engage the threads and turn the retainer in the shell THREE–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT MAST FOR
until it is tight. Use the correct spanner. Do NOT hit the THE H/S/E1.50–1.75XM, H/S/E2.00XMS
retainer with a hammer and driver. (H/S/E25–35XM, H/S/E40XMS)

9. Install the lowering control valve. See FIGURE 7.,

FIGURE 8., and FIGURE 10. Make sure the special 2. Install the lift cylinder in the mount at the bottom of
washer and the spring are installed correctly. A wrong the outer weldment. Install the nut, bolt, and spacer at
installation can cause the load to lower too fast. the mount for the lift cylinder.

Installation, Main Lift Cylinders
(See FIGURE 7., FIGURE 8., And FIGURE 10.)
1. Use a crane (the capacity of the crane must be at least 1
600 kg {3 500 lb}) to raise the mast until it is almost fully
extended. Use safety chains to connect the bottom cross-
member of the inner weldment (two–stage) or inter-
mediate weldment (three–stage) to the top crossmember
of the outer weldment. Lower the mast so that the safety
chains hold the weight of the weldments.
20
3. Use a lifting device to lower the inner weldment
(two–stage) or intermediate weldment (three–stage) on
to the lift cylinder. Install the washers and snap ring at
the top of the lift cylinder. See the MAST Assembly
procedures for the correct adjustment of the lift cylin-
ders.
4. Connect the hydraulic line at the base of the lift cylin-
der. Connect the hydraulic line at the top of the left–hand
lift cylinder on the full free–lift mast.
 1
1 2
2
3
12
3 4 5
10 4
4 15 14
11

11 13
12
5 5 6
6
10

13

7 7
8 8 4. BACK–UP RING
4. O–RING 5. O–RING
5. SPACER 6. ROD AND PISTON
6. ROD AND PISTON 9 7. BACK–UP RING
7. BACK–UP RING 8. PISTON SEAL
9 8. PISTON SEAL 9. WEAR RING
9. WEAR RING 10. SCREW
10. CHECK VALVE 11. WASHER
1. WIPER 11. WASHER 12. CHECK VALVE
2. ROD SEAL 12. SNAP RING 1. WIPER 13. SHELL
3. RETAINER 13. SHELL 2. ROD SEAL 14. WASHER
3. RETAINER 15. SNAP RING
FIGURE 17. MAIN LIFT CYLINDERS,
TWO–STAGE LIMITED FREE–LIFT AND FIGURE 18. FREE–LIFT CYLINDER,
THREE–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT MAST TWO–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT AND
THREE–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT MAST
5. Connect the main lift chains as necessary and adjust
them as specified in CHECKS AND ADJUST-
c. Stop the carriage at the top of the cylinder stroke.
MENTS.
Tighten the screws.
6. Remove the air from the cylinders on the two–stage Installation, Free–Lift Cylinder
FFL. See FIGURE 14. (See FIGURE 8., FIGURE 10., FIGURE 15., And
a. Loosen the screws (10) two turns to permit oil to FIGURE 18.)
flow around the threads of the screw.
1. See FIGURE 15. Install the crosshead assembly on
b. With the forks unloaded and the engine speed at idle, the cylinder rod. Tighten the capscrews for the chain
raise the carriage using the hydraulic control. Raise the guards to 66 Nm (49 lbf ft).
carriage 300 mm (12 in) and then stop for ten seconds
to reduce the pressure in the cylinder. Repeat this pro- 2. Install the cylinder in the mounts. Install the brackets
cedure until the oil flowing from around the threads is and tighten the bolts to 53 Nm (39 lbf ft). On the three–
free of air bubbles. stage FFL mast the nuts are installed on the bracket side
21
of the free–lift cylinder. Tighten the nuts to 38 Nm (28
lbf ft).
3. Connect the hydraulic line at the cylinder.
4. Install the carriage as described in the procedures for
the CARRIAGE.
HEADER HOSE ARRANGEMENTS
H/S/E/J2.00–3.20XM (H/S/E/J40–65XM)
S/E/J2.00–3.00XL (S/E/J40–60XL)
Some lift trucks have auxiliary hydraulic equipment
that is attached to the carriage. Examples of auxiliary
equipment are a side–shift carriage or a roll clamp.
These auxiliary functions require arrangements of head-
er hoses for their operation.
NOTE: Hoses have a service life that is determined by
application and time. All hoses must be inspected at the
intervals specified in the MAINTENANCE SCHED-
ULE for the hydraulic system. Install a new hose if the
hose is worn, damaged, soft, or hard and no longer flex-
ible. If necessary, make a comparison to a new hose that
is the correct replacement for the hose you are inspect-
ing.
New Hose Installation, Two–Stage, LFL Mast
(See FIGURE 19. Through FIGURE 21.)
WARNING
Before working on or near the mast, see SAFETY
PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE
MAST in this section.
NOTE: This procedure is for the four function option.
The three function option will have hoses “A” and “B”
only.
NOTE: The carriage height must be correct before the
header hoses can be adjusted. See ADJUST THE LIFT
CHAINS for the carriage adjustment procedure.
1. Mark each hose with a single letter, “A,” “B,” “C,” or
“D.”
2. Use a calculator to calculate dimension “E.” See
FIGURE 19.
3. Clamp the end of the hose (the smaller fitting) that at-
taches to the carriage in a vise (do not clamp on the
threads), pull on the other end until the hose is straight.
Do not apply enough force to stretch the hose. See
FIGURE 19.
4. Mark the hoses with dimension “E” (all measure-
ments are made from the carriage end of the hose [the
smaller fitting]). See FIGURE 19.
22
5. See FIGURE 20. Attach the hoses to the carriage
bracket (11) with the clamps (8).
6. Place the hoses at the location of the hose sheave (2).
The hose sheave and guard (3) must be assembled on to
the hose before they are attached to the mast. Tighten the
mounting hardware to 66 Nm (49 lbf ft).
7. Put the clamps (6) over the hoses and attach the
clamps to the brackets (10) (do NOT tighten the hard-
ware).
NOTE: To make the alignment of dimension “E” easier,
use a crane (the capacity of the crane must be at least 908
kg {2 000 lb}) to raise the carriage high enough to install
a safety chain as shown in FIGURE 21.
8. Align mark “E” at the bottom of the clamp (6). Tight-
en the hardware to 8 Nm (71 lbf in).
9. Connect the header hoses (9) to the cowl hoses (7).
10. Use the rubber clamps and strap clamps to attach the
hoses to the main lift cylinders. Make sure the cowl
hoses (7) do not stretch or fold while tilting the mast ful-
ly forward and backward.
11. With no load on the forks, check the header hose ad-
justment by operating the mast through the full lift cycle
two times. When properly adjusted, the hoses will not be
so tight that they compress when they pass over the
sheaves nor will they be so loose that they touch the load
backrest or any crossmember that is next to a sheave. If
the hoses require additional adjustment, see Adjust-
ment Of Hoses After Installation, Two–Stage LFL
Mast.
Adjustment Of Hoses After Installation,
Two–Stage LFL Mast (See FIGURE 19.
Through FIGURE 21.)
1. Loosen the clamps (6) and pull (if the hoses are loose)
or push (if the hoses are tight) on the hoses so that they
move 30 mm (1.2 in). Tighten the hardware to 8 Nm (71
lbf in).
2. With no load on the forks, check the header hose ad-
justment by operating the mast through the full lift cycle
two times. When properly adjusted, the hoses will not be
so tight that they compress when they pass over the
sheaves nor will they be so loose that they touch the load
backrest or any crossmember that is next to a sheave. If
necessary, repeat step 1 until the hoses are properly ad-
justed.
* METRIC FORMULAS (ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN MILLIMETERS)
@ DIMENSION “E” = (0.985 x Z) + (0.985 x Y) + 244
# DIMENSION “E” = (0.985 x Z) + (0.985 x Y) + 220
% DIMENSION “E” = (0.985 x Z) + (0.985 x Y) + 283
EXAMPLE:DIMENSION “E” = (0.985 x Z) + (0.985 x Y) + 244
STEP 1. DIMENSION “E” = (0.985 x 135) + (0.985 x 2290) + 244
STEP 2. DIMENSION “E” = 133 + 2255.7 + 244
STEP 3. DIMENSION “E” = 2388.7 + 244
STEP 4. DIMENSION “E” = 2633

* INCH FORMULAS (ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN INCHES)

@ DIMENSION “E” = (0.985 x Z) + (0.985 x Y) + 9.6
TOP OUTER CHANNEL
# DIMENSION “E” = (0.985 x Z) + (0.985 x Y) + 8.7
% DIMENSION “E” = (0.985 x Z) + (0.985 x Y) + 11.1
EXAMPLE:DIMENSION “E” = (0.985 x Z) + (0.985 x Y) + 9.6
STEP 1. DIMENSION “E” = (0.985 x 5.3) + (0.985 x 90.0) + 9.6
STEP 2. DIMENSION “E” = 5.2 + 88.7 + 9.6
STEP 3. DIMENSION “E” = 93.9 + 9.6
STEP 4. DIMENSION “E” = 103.5
* ALL OF THE MEASUREMENTS ARE MADE
WITH MAST VERTICAL AND FULLY LOWERED.
@ H2.00–2.50XM (H40–50XM)
# H3.00–3.20XM (H60–65XM)
J2.00–3.00XL (J40–60XL)
12844
% E2.00–3.20XM (E40–65XM)
S/E2.00–3.00XL (S/E40–60XL)

Y
2

1. VISE
2. HOSE

DIMENSION “E”

Z
BOTTOM OUTER CHANNEL
12841

GROUND LEVEL

FIGURE 19. HEADER HOSE MEASUREMENT – TWO–STAGE LIMITED FREE–LIFT MAST

23
 2 1. SPECIAL WASHER
4 3 2. HOSE SHEAVE
1 3. HOSE GUARD
4. WASHER
5. CAPSCREW
6. CLAMP (TOP OF LIFT CYLINDER)
7. COWL HOSES
8. BOTTOM CLAMP
9. HEADER HOSES
5 10. BRACKET, UPPER
11. BRACKET, CARRIAGE
12. CLAMPS
10
ALIGN MARK “E” AT THE
BOTTOM OF THIS
6
CLAMP

12

7
9

11 8

FIGURE 20. HEADER HOSES – TWO–STAGE LIMITED FREE–LIFT MAST

24
The following procedures must be used when installing safety chains for the header hose installation. Addi-
tional precautions and procedures can be required when repairing or removing the mast. See SAFETY PRO-
CEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST in GENERAL PROCEDURES at the front of this section for
additional procedures for the installation of safety chains.
WARNING Mast parts are heavy and can move. Distances between parts are small. Serious
injury or death can result if part of the body is hit by parts of the mast or the carriage.
• Never put any part of the body into or under the mast or carriage unless all parts are completely
lowered or a safety chain is installed. Also make sure that the power is off, the key is removed, and
the parking brake is applied.
Put a “DO NOT OPERATE” tag in the operator’s compartment.
• Be careful of the forks. When the mast is raised, the forks can be at a height to cause an injury.
• DO NOT climb on the mast or lift truck at any time. Use a ladder or personnel lift to work on the
mast.
• DO NOT use blocks to support the mast weldments nor to restrain their movement.
• Mast repairs require disassembly and removal of parts and can require removal of the mast or
carriage. Follow the repair procedures in the correct Service Manual for the mast.
SAFETY CHAIN INSTALLATION WHEN THE CARRIAGE IS RAISED:
a. Put the mast in a vertical position.
b. Raise the carriage approximately 300 mm (12 in).
c. Use a 3/8 inch minimum safety chain with a hook. Attach one end of
the chain around all the top crossmembers. Make sure the hook (1) is
completely engaged with a link in the chain.
d. Attach a shackle (2) to the lifting eye on the carriage. Install the chain
through the shackle. Make sure the hook is completely engaged with a
link in the chain. Make sure the safety chain does not touch lift chains,
chain sheaves, tubes, hoses, fittings, or other parts of the mast.
e. Lower the crane until there is tension in the safety chain. Make sure
both hooks are properly engaged before working on the mast. Install a
“DO NOT REMOVE” tag on the safety chain.

1
2

12843

FIGURE 21. SAFETY CHAIN INSTALLATION – TWO–STAGE LIMITED FREE–LIFT MAST

25
New Hose Installation, Two–Stage FFL Mast
(See FIGURE 22. Through FIGURE 24., And
FIGURE 28.)
WARNING
Before working on or near the mast, see SAFETY
PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE
MAST in this section.
NOTE: This procedure is for the four function option.
The three function option will have hoses “A” and “B”
only.
NOTE: The carriage height must be correct before the
header hoses can be adjusted. See ADJUST THE LIFT
CHAINS for the carriage adjustment procedure.
1. Mark each hose with a single letter, “A,” “B,” “C,” or
“D.”
2. Use a calculator to calculate dimension “E.” See
FIGURE 22.
3. Clamp the end of the hose (the smaller fitting) that at-
taches to the carriage in a vise (do NOT clamp on the
threads), pull on the other end until the hose is straight.
Do NOT apply enough force to stretch the hose. See
FIGURE 22.
4. Mark the hoses with dimension “E” (all measure-
ments are made from the carriage end of the hose [the
smaller fitting]). See FIGURE 22.
5. See FIGURE 23. Attach the hoses to the carriage
bracket (15) with clamp (9).
6. Put the header hoses (10) over the free–lift chains
(11).
7. Put the clamps (7) over the hoses and attach the
clamps to the lower bracket (16) (do NOT tighten the
hardware).
NOTE: To make the alignment of dimension “E” easier,
use a crane (the capacity of the crane must be at least 908
kg {2 000 lb}) to raise the carriage high enough to install
a safety chain.
8. Align mark “E” at the bottom of the clamp (7). Tight-
en the hardware to 8 Nm (71 lbf in).
9. Install the hose guards (2) at the free–lift crosshead.
Tighten the capscrews that mount the guards to 66 Nm
(49 lbf ft).
26
NOTE: The proper hose alignment is shown in
FIGURE 24.
10. Apply a spray lubricant onto the hoses in the area
that will contact the channels. Make sure the hoses are
properly aligned in the channels (8). Put the clamps (12)
over the hoses and attach the clamps to the channels.
Tighten the hardware to 8 Nm (71 lbf in). See
FIGURE 24.
11. Connect the header hoses (10, C, and D) to the cowl
hoses (1). Connect the header hoses (10, A, and B) to the
tubes (13).
12. Use the rubber clamps and strap clamps to attach the
hoses to the main lift cylinders. Make sure the cowl
hoses (1) do not stretch or fold while tilting the mast ful-
ly forward and backward.
13. With no load on the forks, operate the mast through
the full lift cycle two times. With the mast at full lift
height, attach clamp (17) at the bottom of the hose loop
on the third and/or fourth function hoses. This action al-
lows the hoses to fit properly in the hose channel.
14. With no load on the forks, check the header hose ad-
justment by operating the mast through the full lift cycle
two times. When properly adjusted, the hoses will not be
so tight that they compress when they pass over the
sheaves nor will they be so loose that they touch the load
backrest or any crossmember that is next to a sheave. If
the hoses require additional adjustment, see Adjust-
ment Of Hoses After Installation, Two–Stage
FFL Mast.
Adjustment Of Hoses After Installation,
Two–Stage FFL Mast (See FIGURE 22.
through FIGURE 24., And FIGURE 28.)
1. Loosen the clamps (7) and pull (if the hoses are loose)
or push (if the hoses are tight) on the hoses so that they
move 15 mm (0.6 in). Tighten the hardware to 8 Nm (71
lbf in).
2. With no load on the forks, check the header hose ad-
justment by operating the mast through the full lift cycle
two times. When properly adjusted, the hoses will not be
so tight that they compress when they pass over the
sheaves nor will they be so loose that they touch the load
backrest or any crossmember that is next to a sheave. If
necessary, repeat step 1 until the hoses are properly ad-
justed.
* METRIC FORMULAS (ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN MILLIMETERS)
DIMENSION “E” = (0.985 x Z) + (0.985 x Y) + 45
EXAMPLE:DIMENSION “E” = (0.985 x Z) + (0.985 x Y) + 45
STEP 1. DIMENSION “E” = (0.985 x 1190) + (0.985 x 102.5) + 45
STEP 2. DIMENSION “E” = 1172.2 + 101.0 + 45
STEP 3. DIMENSION “E” = 1273.2 + 45
STEP 4. DIMENSION “E” = 1318

* INCH FORMULAS (ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN INCHES)

DIMENSION “E” = (0.985 x Z) + (0.985 x Y) + 1.77
EXAMPLE:DIMENSION = (0.985 x Z) + (0.985 x Y) + 1.77
STEP 1. DIMENSION “E” = (0.985 x 46.8) + (0.985 x 4.0) + 1.77
STEP 2. DIMENSION “E” = 46.1 + 3.9 + 1.77
STEP 3. DIMENSION “E” = 50 + 1.77
STEP 4. DIMENSION “E” = 51.77
* ALL OF THE MEASUREMENTS ARE MADE
WITH MAST VERTICAL AND FULLY LOWERED.

CROSSHEAD CENTERLINE
2

1. VISE Y
2. HOSE
TOP OF CYLINDER
RETAINER
DIMENSION “E”

Z
1

12841

GROUND LEVEL
FIGURE 22. HEADER HOSE MEASUREMENT – TWO–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT MAST

27
 5

10 14
10

5 12

11 6
3
13
4
5 4
3
16
7

8
11 2

1
1

ALIGN MARK “E” AT THE

BOTTOM OF THIS 12
CLAMP

10
17
8

1. HOSES (FROM COWL

TUBES) 9
2. HOSE GUARD
3. SNAP RING
4. HOSE GUIDE 10. HEADER HOSES 15
5. CLAMPS 11. FREE–LIFT CHAINS
6. CROSSHEAD, 12. CLAMP, CHANNEL 10
FREE–LIFT CYLINDER 13. TUBE
7. CLAMP, FREE–LIFT 14. CLIP
CYLINDER 15. BRACKET, CARRIAGE
8. HOSE CHANNEL 16. BRACKET, LOWER
9. BOTTOM CLAMP 17. STRAP CLAMP

FIGURE 23. HEADER HOSES – TWO–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT MAST

28
 D C B A

50 mm
(2 in) A

D
321 mm
(12.5 in)

FIGURE 24. HEADER HOSE ALIGNMENT – TWO–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT MAST

29
New Hose Installation, Three–Stage FFL Mast
(See FIGURE 25. Through FIGURE 28.)
WARNING
Before working on or near the mast, see SAFETY
PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE
MAST in this section.
NOTE: This procedure is for the four function option.
The three function option will have hoses “A” and “B”
only.
NOTE: The carriage height must be correct before the
header hoses can be adjusted. See ADJUST THE LIFT
CHAINS for the carriage adjustment procedure.
1. Mark each hose with a single letter, “A,” “B,” “C,” or
“D.”
2. Use a calculator to calculate the dimensions “E” and
“G.” See FIGURE 25.
3. Clamp the end of the hose (the smaller fitting) that at-
taches to the carriage in a vise (do NOT clamp on the
threads), pull on the other end until the hose is straight.
Do NOT apply enough force to stretch the hose. See
FIGURE 25.
4. Mark all the hoses with dimensions “E” and “G” (all
measurements are made from the carriage end of the
hose [the smaller fitting]). See FIGURE 25.
5. See FIGURE 26. Attach the hoses to the carriage
bracket (21) with clamp (15). Apply grease to the sur-
face of the hose guide (13) that contacts the hoses.
NOTE: The hoses cross each other in two locations.
The proper hose alignment is shown in FIGURE 27.
6. See FIGURE 26. and FIGURE 27. Place the hoses
over the top of the free–lift chains (17) and under the
hose guides (13). Put the clamps (18) over the hoses and
attach the clamps to the lower bracket (11) (do NOT
tighten the hardware).
NOTE: To make the alignment of dimension “E” easier,
use a crane (the capacity of the crane must be at least 908
30
kg {2 000 lb}) to raise the carriage high enough to attach
a safety chain as shown in FIGURE 28.
7. Align the mark for dimension “E” at the bottom of the
clamp (18) to create the proper hose tension. Tighten the
hardware to 8 Nm (71 lbf in). Install the hose guards (2).
Tighten the capscrews that mount the guards to 66 Nm
(49 lbf ft).
8. See FIGURE 26. and FIGURE 27. Position the hoses
at the hose sheave (8). The hose sheave and hose guard
(9) must be installed on to the hose before they are at-
tached to the mast. Tighten the hardware to 53 Nm (39
lbf ft)
9. Put the clamps (10) over the hoses and attach the
clamps to the upper brackets (20) (do NOT tighten the
hardware).
NOTE: To make the alignment of dimension “G” easi-
er, use a crane (the capacity of the crane must be at least
908 kg {2 000 lb}) to raise the inner channel high
enough to install a safety chain as shown in FIGURE 28.
10. Align mark “G” on hoses “A” and “D” at the bottom
edge of clamp (10) to create the proper tension. Align
mark “G” on hoses “B” and “C” at the top edge of clamp
(10) to create the proper tension. Tighten the hardware
to 8 Nm (71 lbf in).
11. Install the hose restraints (14).
12.Connect the header hoses (16) to the cowl hoses (19).
13.Use the rubber clamps and strap clamps to attach the
hoses to the main lift cylinders. Make sure the hoses do
NOT stretch or fold while tilting the mast fully forward
and backward.
14. With no load on the forks, check the header hose ad-
justment by operating the mast through the full lift cycle
two times. When properly adjusted, the hoses will not be
so tight that they compress when they pass over the
sheaves nor will they be so loose that they touch the load
backrest or any crossmember that is next to a sheave. If
the hoses require additional adjustment, see Adjust-
ment Of Hoses After Installation, Three–Stage, FFL
Mast.
* METRIC FORMULAS (ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN MILLIMETERS)
@ DIMENSION “E” = (1.97 x W) – (0.985 x Z) – 595
# DIMENSION “E” = (1.97 x W) – (0.985 x Z) – 1088
DIMENSION “G” = (1.97 x W) – (0.985 x Z) + (0.98 x Y) – 213
EXAMPLE:DIMENSION “E” = (1.97 x W) – (0.985 x Z) – 595
STEP 1. DIMENSION “E” = (1.97 x 1190) – (0.985 x 135) – 595
STEP 2. DIMENSION “E” = (2344) – (133) – 595
TOP OUTER CHANNEL
STEP 3. DIMENSION “E” = 2211 – 595
STEP 4. DIMENSION “E” =1616
THE CALCULATION FOR DIMENSION “G” IS SIMILAR TO DIMENSION “E.”
* INCH FORMULAS (ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN INCHES)
@ DIMENSION “E” = (1.97 x W) – (0.985 x Z) – 23.4
@ DIMENSION “E” = (1.97 x W) – (0.985 x Z) – 42.8
DIMENSION “G” = (1.97 x W) – (0.985 x Z) + (0.98 x Y) – 8.4
EXAMPLE:DIMENSION “E” = (1.97 x W) – (0.985 x Z) – 23.4
STEP 1. DIMENSION “E” = (1.97 x 46.8) – (0.985 x 5.3) – 23.4
STEP 2. DIMENSION “E” = 92.2 – 5.2 – 23.4
STEP 3. DIMENSION “E” = 87.0 – 23.4
STEP 4. DIMENSION “E” = 63.6
THE CALCULATION FOR DIMENSION “G” IS SIMILAR TO DIMENSION “E.”
* ALL OF THE MEASUREMENTS ARE MADE
WITH MAST VERTICAL AND FULLY LOWERED.
@ FOR MASTS WITH DIMENSION “Y” LESS THAN 2600 mm (102.2 in)
# FOR MASTS WITH DIMENSION “Y” GREATER THAN 2600 mm (102.2 in)

CROSSHEAD Y
CENTERLINE
2
1. VISE
2. HOSE

DIMENSION “G”
DIMENSION “E”

W 12841
1

12841
Z
BOTTOM OUTER
CHANNEL

GROUND LEVEL

FIGURE 25. HEADER HOSE MEASUREMENT – THREE–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT MAST

31
 1. CAPSCREW 10. CLAMP
8 2. HOSE GUARD 11. BRACKET, LOWER
7
6 3. SNAP RING 12. HOSE RESTRAINT
4. HOSE GUIDE 13. HOSE GUIDE
5. CROSSHEAD, 14. HOSE RESTRAINT
FREE–LIFT 15. BOTTOM CLAMP
CYLINDER 16. HEADER HOSES
6. WASHER 17. FREE–LIFT CHAIN
7. SPACER 18. CLAMP
8. HOSE SHEAVE 19. COWL HOSES
9 1 9. HOSE GUARD 20. BRACKET, UPPER
17 21. BRACKET, CARRIAGE
5 22. CLAMP
4
10
20
4
3
2

1
22
17

22
16

19
11

18
12

13
22

21

15

14

19 16

FIGURE 26. HEADER HOSES – THREE–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT MAST

32
 1. SHEAVE, FREE–LIFT
2. HOSE
3. HOSE GUIDE
= HOSE “A”
= HOSE “B”
= HOSE “C”
= HOSE “D”

MARK “G” ON HOSES “A”

AND “D” IS ALIGNED AT
THE BOTTOM OF THIS
CLAMP .MARK “G” ON
HOSES “B” AND “C” IS
ALIGNED AT THE TOP
OF THE CLAMP

FORKS

FRONT VIEW A B C D 12841

3
FIGURE 27. HEADER HOSE ALIGNMENT – THREE–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT MAST (1 OF 3)

33
 = HOSE “A”
= HOSE “B”
= HOSE “C”
= HOSE “D”

C
B A
D

LEFT HAND CYLINDER RIGHT HAND CYLINDER

B
ALIGN MARK “E” AT THE
BOTTOM OF THIS C
CLAMP
D

12841

REAR VIEW
C D A B

FIGURE 26. HEADER HOSE ALIGNMENT – THREE–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT MAST (2 OF 3)

34
 6
2 2 2
2 FORKS
FORKS 4
1 4
1 C B
C B
D A
D A

3 5
C D A B A

D
12841

2 2 B

6 C

1. HOSE GUIDE
2. HOSE
3. BOTTOM CROSSMEMBER, INNER CHANNEL
4. RETAINER
5. FREE–LIFT CYLINDER
6. CYLINDER GUARD 4

FORKS

FIGURE 26. HEADER HOSE ALIGNMENT – THREE–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT MAST (3 OF 3)

Adjustment Of Hoses After Installation,
Three–Stage, FFL Mast
(See FIGURE 25. Through FIGURE 28.)
1. If the tension of the hoses is correct between the car-
riage and the clamp (18) at the lower bracket (11), go to
step 2. If the tension of the hoses is not correct, loosen
the clamps (18) and pull (if the hoses are loose) or push
(if the hoses are tight) on the hoses so that they move 15
mm (0.6 in). Tighten the hardware to 8 Nm (71 lbf in).
2. If the tension of the hoses is correct between the clamp
(10) at the upper bracket (20) and the clamp (18) at the
lower bracket (11), go to step 3. If the tension of the
hoses is not correct, loosen the clamps (10) and pull (if
the hoses are too loose) or push (if the hoses are too
tight) on the hoses so that they move 15 mm (0.6 in) plus
the amount the hoses were moved in step 1. Tighten the
hardware to 8 Nm (6 lbf ft) (71 lbf in).
3. With no load on the forks, check the header hose ad-
justment by operating the mast through the full lift cycle
two times. When properly adjusted, the hoses will not be
so tight that they compress when they pass over the
sheaves nor will they be so loose that they touch the load
backrest or any crossmember that is next to a sheave. If
necessary, repeat steps 1 and 2 until the hoses are proper-
ly adjusted.
35
 The following procedures must be used when installing safety chains for the header hose installation. Addi-
tional precautions and procedures can be required when repairing or removing the mast. See SAFETY PRO-
CEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST in GENERAL PROCEDURES at the front of this section for
additional procedures for the installation of safety chains.
WARNING Mast parts are heavy and can move. Distances between parts are small. Serious
injury or death can result if part of the body is hit by parts of the mast or the carriage.
• Never put any part of the body into or under the mast or carriage unless all parts are completely
lowered or a safety chain is installed. Also make sure that the power is off, the key is removed, and
the parking brake is applied.
Put a “DO NOT OPERATE” tag in the operator’s compartment.
• Be careful of the forks. When the mast is raised, the forks can be at a height to cause an injury.
• DO NOT climb on the mast or lift truck at any time. Use a ladder or personnel lift to work on the
mast.
• DO NOT use blocks to support the mast weldments nor to restrain their movement.
• Mast repairs require disassembly and removal of parts and can require removal of the mast or
carriage. Follow the repair procedures in the correct Service Manual for the mast.
SAFETY CHAIN INSTALLATION WHEN THE CARRIAGE IS RAISED:
a. Put the mast in a vertical position.
b. Raise the carriage approximately 300 mm (12 in).
c. Use a 3/8 inch minimum safety chain with a hook. Attach one end of
the chain around all the top crossmembers. Make sure the hook (1) is
completely engaged with a link in the chain.
d. Attach a shackle (2) to the lifting eye on the carriage. Install the chain
through the shackle. Make sure the hook is completely engaged with a
link in the chain. Make sure the safety chain does not touch lift chains,
chain sheaves, tubes, hoses, fittings, or other parts of the mast.
e. Lower the crane until there is tension in the safety chain. Make sure
both hooks are properly engaged before working on the mast. Install a
“DO NOT REMOVE” tag on the safety chain.

1
2

12843

FIGURE 28. SAFETY CHAIN INSTALLATION – TWO–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT AND

THREE–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT MAST (1 OF 2)

36
 SAFETY CHAIN INSTALLATION WHEN THE INNER CHANNEL IS RAISED:
a. Put the mast in a vertical position.
b. The mast must be full lowered.
c. Attach a crane to the top crossmember of the inner channel. Raise the inner
channel approximately 600 mm (24 in).
d. Use a 3/8 inch minimum safety chain with a hook. Attach one end of the
chain around the top crossmember of the outer channel. Make sure the hook
(1) is completely engaged with a link in the chain.
e. Attach the other end of the chain around the lower crossmember of the inner
channel. Make sure the hook (1) is completely engaged with a link in the chain.
f. Lower the crane until there is tension in the safety chain. Make sure both
hooks are properly engaged before working on the mast. Install a “DO NOT
REMOVE” tag on the safety chain.

12843

FIGURE 28. SAFETY CHAIN INSTALLATION – TWO–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT AND

THREE–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT MAST (2 OF 2)

HEADER HOSE ARRANGEMENTS These auxiliary functions require arrangements of head-

H/S/E1.50–1.75XM, H/S/E2.00XMS
(H/S/E25–35XM, H/S/E40XMS)
and J1.60–2.00XMT (J30–40XMT)
Some lift trucks have auxiliary hydraulic equipment
that is attached to the carriage. Examples of auxiliary
equipment are a side–shift carriage or a roll clamp.
er hoses for their operation.
NOTE: Hoses have a service life that is determined by
application and time. All hoses must be inspected at the
intervals specified in the MAINTENANCE SCHED-
ULE for the hydraulic system. Install a new hose if the
hose is worn, damaged, soft, or hard and no longer flex-
37
ible. If necessary, make a comparison to a new hose that
is the correct replacement for the hose you are inspect-
ing.
New Hose Installation, Two–Stage LFL Mast
(See FIGURE 21., FIGURE 29., And
FIGURE 30.)
WARNING
Before working on or near the mast, see SAFETY
PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE
MAST in this section.
NOTE: This procedure is for the four function option.
The three function option will have hoses “A” and “B”
only.
NOTE: The carriage height must be correct before the
header hoses can be adjusted. See ADJUST THE LIFT
CHAINS for the carriage adjustment procedure.
1. Mark each hose with a single letter, “A,” “B,” “C,” or
“D.”
2. Use a calculator to calculate dimension “E.” See
FIGURE 29.
3. Clamp the end of the hose (the smaller fitting) that at-
taches to the carriage in a vise (do NOT clamp on the
threads), pull on the other end until the hose is straight.
Do NOT apply enough force to stretch the hose. See
FIGURE 29.
4. Mark all the hoses with dimension “E” (all measure-
ments are made from the carriage end of the hose [the
smaller fitting]). See FIGURE 29.
5. See FIGURE 30. Attach the hoses to the carriage
brackets (5) with the clamps (19).
6. Place the hoses at the location of the hose sheave (10).
The hose sheave and stub shaft (9) must be assembled on
to the hose before they are attached to the mast. Tighten
the mounting hardware to 66 Nm (49 lbf ft).
7. Put the clamps (14) over the hoses and attach the
clamps to the upper brackets (8) (do NOT tighten the
hardware).
38
NOTE: To make the alignment of dimension “E” easier,
use a crane (the capacity of the crane must be at least 908
kg {2 000 lb}) to raise the carriage high enough to install
a safety chain as shown in FIGURE 21.
8. Align mark “E” at the bottom of the clamps (14).
Tighten the hardware to 8 Nm (71 lbf in).
9. Connect the header hoses (1) to the cowl hoses (20).
10. Use the rubber clamps and hose clamps to attach the
hoses to the main lift cylinders. Make sure the hoses do
NOT stretch or fold while tilting the mast fully forward
and backward.
11. With no load on the forks, check the header hose ad-
justment by operating the mast through the full lift cycle
two times. When properly adjusted, the hoses will not be
so tight that they compress when they pass over the
sheaves nor will they be so loose that they touch the load
backrest or any crossmember that is next to a sheave. If
the hoses require additional adjustment, see Adjust-
ment Of Hoses After Installation, Two–Stage LFL
Mast.
Adjustment Of Hoses After Installation,
Two–Stage LFL Mast (See FIGURE 21.,
FIGURE 29., And FIGURE 30.)
1. Loosen the clamps (14) and pull (if the hoses are
loose) or push (if the hoses are tight) on the hoses so that
they move 30 mm (1.2 in). Tighten the hardware to 8 Nm
(71 lbf in).
2. With no load on the forks, check the header hose ad-
justment by operating the mast through the full lift cycle
two times. When properly adjusted, the hoses will not be
so tight that they compress when they pass over the
sheaves nor will they be so loose that they touch the load
backrest or any crossmember that is next to a sheave. If
necessary, repeat step 1 until the hoses are properly ad-
justed.
* METRIC FORMULAS (ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN MILLIMETERS)
DIMENSION “E” = ( Y + Z + 204) x 0.98
EXAMPLE:DIMENSION “E” = ( Y + Z + 204) x 0.98
STEP 1. DIMENSION “E” = (1840 + 135 + 204) x 0.98
STEP 2. DIMENSION “E” = 2179 x 0.98
STEP 3. DIMENSION “E” = 2135

* INCH FORMULAS (ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN INCHES)

DIMENSION “E” = ( Y + Z + 8.0) x 0.98
EXAMPLE:DIMENSION = ( Y + Z + 8.0) x 0.98 TOP OUTER CHANNEL
STEP 1. DIMENSION “E” = (72.4 + 5.3 + 8.0) x 0.98
STEP 2. DIMENSION “E” = 85.7 x 0.98
STEP 3. DIMENSION “E” = 84.0
* ALL OF THE MEASUREMENTS ARE MADE
WITH MAST VERTICAL AND FULLY LOWERED.

Y
1. VISE
2. HOSE

DIMENSION “E”

12850
12841

Z
BOTTOM OUTER CHANNEL

GROUND LEVEL
FIGURE 29. HEADER HOSE MEASUREMENT – TWO–STAGE LIMITED FREE–LIFT MAST

39
 1. HOSES, HEADER
10 2. CLAMP, STRAP
3. FITTINGS
4. CAPSCREW
13 5. BRACKET, CARRIAGE
15 6. SPACER
6 7. NUT
8. BRACKET, UPPER
9 9. STUBSHAFT
12
16 10. SHEAVE
11. WASHER
12. NUT
13. CAPSCREW
14 14. CLAMP
11 15. WASHER
17 16. CAPSCREW
8 17. CAPSCREW
7 18. CLAMP
19. CLAMP
ALIGN MARK “E” AT THE 20. HOSE, COWL
BOTTOM OF THIS 21. CLAMP
CLAMP

21
18

18
5

2
4
4
7 19

19

OLD STYLE 3
4

20 7
1

20

20

FIGURE 30. HEADER HOSES – TWO–STAGE LIMITED FREE–LIFT MAST

40
New Hose Installation, Two–Stage FFL Mast
(See FIGURE 28., And FIGURE 31. Through
FIGURE 33.)
WARNING
Before working on or near the mast, see SAFETY
PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE
MAST in this section.
NOTE: This procedure is for the four function option.
The three function option will have hoses “A” and “B”
only.
NOTE: The carriage height must be correct before the
header hoses can be adjusted. See ADJUST THE LIFT
CHAINS for the carriage adjustment procedure.
1. Mark each hose with a single letter, “A,” “B,” “C,” or
“D.”
2. Use a calculator to calculate dimension “E.” See
FIGURE 31.
3. Clamp the end of the hose (the smaller fitting) that at-
taches to the carriage in a vise (do NOT clamp on the
threads), pull on the other end until the hose is straight.
Do NOT apply enough force to stretch the hose. See
FIGURE 31.
4. Mark all the hoses with dimension “E” (all measure-
ments are made from the carriage end of the hose [the
smaller fitting]). See FIGURE 31.
5. See FIGURE 32. Attach the hoses to the carriage
bracket (14) with clamps (15).
6. Put the header hoses (3) over the free–lift chains (27).
7. Put the clamps (10) over the header hoses and attach
the clamps to the free–lift bracket (12) (do NOT tighten
the hardware).
NOTE: To make the alignment of dimension “E” easier,
use a crane (the capacity of the crane must be at least 908
kg {2 000 lb}) to raise the carriage high enough to install
a safety chain as shown in FIGURE 28.
8. Align mark “E” at the bottom of the clamp (10).
Tighten the hardware to 8 Nm (71 lbf in).
9. Install the hose guards (28) at the free–lift crosshead.
Tighten the capscrews that mount the guards to 66 Nm
(49 lbf ft).
NOTE: The proper hose alignment is shown in
FIGURE 33.
10. Apply a spray lubricant on the hoses in the area that
will contact the channels. Make sure the hoses are prop-
erly aligned in the channels (1 and 2). Put the clamps (5)
over the hoses and attach the clamps to the channels.
Tighten the hardware to 8 Nm (71 lbf in). See
FIGURE 32.
11. Connect the header hoses (4, C, and D) to the cowl
hoses (25). Connect the header hoses (4, A, and B) to the
tubes (21).
12. Use the rubber clamps and strap clamps to attach the
hoses to the main lift cylinders. Make sure the cowl
hoses do NOT stretch or fold while tilting the mast fully
forward and backward.
13. With no load on the forks, operate the mast through
the full lift cycle two times. With the mast at full lift
height, attach clamp (20) at the bottom of the hose loop
on the third and/or fourth function hoses. This action al-
lows the hoses to fit properly in the hose channel.
14. With no load on the forks, check the header hose ad-
justment by operating the mast through the full lift cycle
two times. When properly adjusted, the hoses will not be
so tight that they compress when they pass over the
sheaves nor will they be so loose that they touch the load
backrest or any crossmember that is next to a sheave. If
the hoses require additional adjustment, see Adjust-
ment Of Hoses After Installation, Two–Stage FFL
Mast.
Adjustment Of Hoses After Installation,
Two–Stage FFL Mast (See FIGURE 28., And
FIGURE 31. Through FIGURE 33.)
1. Loosen the clamps (10) and pull (if the hoses are
loose) or push (if the hoses are tight) on the hoses so that
they move 15 mm (0.6 in). Tighten the hardware to 8 Nm
(71 lbf in).
2. With no load on the forks, check the header hose ad-
justment by operating the mast through the full lift cycle
two times. When properly adjusted, the hoses will not be
so tight that they compress when they pass over the
sheaves nor will they be so loose that they touch the load
backrest or any crossmember that is next to a sheave. If
necessary, repeat step 1 until the hoses are properly ad-
justed.
41
 * METRIC FORMULAS (ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN MILLIMETERS)
DIMENSION “E” = (Y ÷ 2 + Z + 186) x 0.985 TOP OUTER CHANNEL
EXAMPLE:DIMENSION “E” = (Y ÷ 2 + Z + 186) x 0.985
STEP 1. DIMENSION “E” = (1840 ÷ 2 + 135 + 186) x 0.985
STEP 2. DIMENSION “E” = (920 + 135 + 186) x 0.985
STEP 3. DIMENSION “E” = 1241 x 0.985
STEP 4. DIMENSION “E” = 1222

* INCH FORMULAS (ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN INCHES)

DIMENSION “E” = (Y ÷ 2 + Z + 7.3) x 0.985
EXAMPLE:DIMENSION = (Y ÷ 2 + Z + 7.3) x 0.985
STEP 1. DIMENSION “E” = (72.4 ÷ 2 + 5.3 + 7.3) x 0.985
STEP 2. DIMENSION “E” = (36.2 + 5.3 + 7.3) x 0.985
STEP 3. DIMENSION “E” = 48.8 x 0.985
STEP 4. DIMENSION “E” = 48.0
* ALL OF THE MEASUREMENTS ARE MADE
WITH MAST VERTICAL AND FULLY LOWERED.

1. VISE
2. HOSE

DIMENSION “E”

12850

12841

BOTTOM OUTER CHANNEL Z

GROUND LEVEL
FIGURE 31. HEADER HOSE MEASUREMENT – TWO–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT MAST

42
 21 8
13
27

21
6 3
19 18

18
5 19

22 23
6
10
13

22
2 7 23
5 28
12
9 22
7 23
ALIGN MARK “E” AT
THE BOTTOM OF
THIS CLAMP 11
16
13
4
7
1
OLD STYLE
11 17

15
24
14

20
16 26
25
24

25
25

19. SNAP RING

1. CHANNEL 10. CLAMP 20. CLAMP, STRAP
2. CHANNEL 11. BRACKET 21. TUBE
3. HOSE, HEADER 12. BRACKET, FREE–LIFT 22. CLAMP
4. CLAMP, STRAP 13. CAPSCREW 23. CLAMP
5. CLAMP 14. BRACKET, CARRIAGE 24. FITTING
6. CLAMP 15. CLAMP 25. HOSE, COWL
7. CLAMP 16. CAPSCREW 26. CLAMP, STRAP
8. CLIP 17. NUT 27. CHAIN, FREE–LIFT
9. FITTING 18. HOSE GUIDE 28. GUARD

FIGURE 32. HEADER HOSES – TWO–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT MAST

43
 D C B A

50 mm
(2 in)

A
D

B
225 mm
8.8 in C

12850

FIGURE 33. HEADER HOSE ALIGNMENT – TWO–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT MAST

44
New Hose Installation, Three–Stage, FFL
Mast (See FIGURE 28. And FIGURE 34.
Through FIGURE 36.)
WARNING
Before working on or near the mast, see SAFETY
PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE
MAST in this section.
NOTE: This procedure is for the four function option.
The three function option will have hoses “A” and “B”
only.
NOTE: The carriage height must be correct before the
header hoses can be adjusted. See ADJUST THE LIFT
CHAINS for the carriage adjustment procedure.
1. Mark each hose with a single letter, “A,” “B,” “C,” or
“D.”
2. Use a calculator to calculate the dimensions “E” and
“G.” See FIGURE 34.
3. Clamp the end of the hose (the smaller fitting) that at-
taches to the carriage in a vise (do NOT clamp on the
threads), pull on the other end until the hose is straight.
Do NOT apply enough force to stretch the hose. See
FIGURE 34.
4. Mark the all the hoses with dimensions “E” and “G”
(all measurements are made from the carriage end of the
hose [the smaller fitting]). See FIGURE 34.
5. See FIGURE 35. Attach the hoses to the carriage
bracket (3) with clamps (9). Apply spray lubricant to the
surface of the hose guide (23) that contacts the hoses.
NOTE: The hoses cross each other in one location. The
proper hose alignment is shown in FIGURE 28.
6. See FIGURE 35. and FIGURE 36. Place the hoses
over the top of the free–lift chains (30) and under the
hose guides (23). Attach the hose guides to the lower
crossmember and tighten the mounting hardware to 33
Nm (24 lbf ft). Make sure the bracket (33) is between the
crossmember and the hose guide. Put the clamps (21)
over the hoses and attach the clamps to the free–lift
bracket (22) (do NOT tighten the hardware).
NOTE: To make the alignment of dimension “E” easier,
use a crane (the capacity of the crane must be at least 908
kg {2 000 lb}) to raise the carriage high enough to attach
a safety chain as shown in FIGURE 28.
7. Align the mark for dimension “E” at the bottom of the
clamp (21) to create the proper hose tension. Tighten the
hardware to 8 Nm (71 lbf in). Install the hose guards
(31). Tighten the capscrews that mount the guards to 66
Nm (49 lbf ft).
8. See FIGURE 35. and FIGURE 36. Position the hoses
at the hose sheave (11). The hose sheave and stubshaft
(10) must be installed on to the hose before they are at-
tached to the mast. Tighten the hardware to 53 Nm (39
lbf ft)
9. Put the clamps (34) over the hoses and attach the
clamps to the upper brackets (12) (do NOT tighten the
hardware).
NOTE: To make the alignment of dimension “G” easi-
er, use a crane to raise the inner channel high enough to
install a safety chain as shown in FIGURE 28.
10. Align mark “G” on hoses “A” and “D” at the bottom
edge of clamp (34) to create the proper tension. Align
mark “G” on hoses “B” and “C” at the top edge of clamp
(34) to create the proper tension. Tighten the hardware
to 8 Nm (71 lbf in).
11. Install the clamps (27).
12.Connect the header hoses (1) to the cowl hoses (2).
13.Use the rubber clamps and strap clamps to attach the
hoses to the main lift cylinders. Make sure the hoses do
not stretch or fold while tilting the mast fully forward
and backward.
14. With no load on the forks, check the header hose ad-
justment by operating the mast through the full lift cycle
two times. When properly adjusted, the hoses will not be
so tight that they compress when they pass over the
sheaves nor will they be so loose that they touch the load
backrest or any crossmember that is next to a sheave. If
the hoses require additional adjustment, see Adjust-
ment Of Hoses After Installation, Three–Stage, FFL
Mast.
45
* METRIC FORMULAS (ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN MILLIMETERS)
@ DIMENSION “E” = (Y – Z – 246) x 0.985
# DIMENSION “E” = (Y – Z – 746) x 0.985
DIMENSION “G” = (1.965 x Y) – (0.985 x Z) + 57.57
EXAMPLE:DIMENSION “E” = (Y – Z – 246) x 0.985
STEP 1. DIMENSION “E” = (1840 – 135 – 246) x 0.985
STEP 2. DIMENSION “E” = 1459 x 0.985
STEP 3. DIMENSION “E” = 1437
THE CALCULATION FOR DIMENSION “G” IS SIMILAR TO DIMENSION “E.”

* INCH FORMULAS (ALL DIMENSIONS ARE IN INCHES)

@ DIMENSION “E” = (Y – Z – 9.7) x 0.985 TOP OUTER CHANNEL
# DIMENSION “E” = (Y – Z – 29.3) x 0.985
DIMENSION “G” = (1.965 x Y) – (0.985 x Z) + 2.3
EXAMPLE:DIMENSION “E” = (Y – Z – 9.7) x 0.985
STEP 1. DIMENSION “E” = (72.4 – 5.3 – 9.7) x 0.985
STEP 2. DIMENSION “E” = 57.4 x 0.985
STEP 3. DIMENSION “E” = 56.5
THE CALCULATION FOR DIMENSION “G” IS SIMILAR TO DIMENSION “E.”

* ALL OF THE MEASUREMENTS ARE MADE WITH

MAST VERTICAL AND FULLY LOWERED.
@ FOR MASTS WITH DIMENSION “Y” LESS THAN 2600 mm (102.2 in)
# FOR MASTS WITH DIMENSION “Y” GREATER THAN 2600 mm (102.2 in)

12850

2
1. VISE
2. HOSE
Y

DIMENSION “G”
DIMENSION “E”

12841

Z
BOTTOM OUTER CHANNEL
GROUND LEVEL

FIGURE 34. HEADER HOSE MEASUREMENT – THREE–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT MAST

46
 1. HOSE, HEADER 13. WASHER
2. HOSE, COWL 14. CAPSCREW
3. BRACKET, 15. WASHER
11 CARRIAGE 16. NUT
10 4. CAPSCREW 17. SPACER
13 17
14 5. CAPSCREW 18. CAPSCREW
15 6. LOCKNUT 19. CAPSCREW
7. HOSE GUIDE 20. NUT
16 8. SNAP RING 21. CLAMP
9. CLAMP 22. BRACKET,
10. STUBSHAFT FREE–LIFT
4 11. SHEAVE 23. HOSE GUIDE
12
6 12. BRACKET, 24. CAPSCREW
30 UPPER 25. WASHER
8 7
34 26. LOCKNUT
27. CLAMP
19 7 28. CLAMP, HOSE
20 29. CLAMP, STRAP
8
30. CHAIN,
31
FREE–LIFT
31. GUARD,
FREE–LIFT
32. FITTING
5 33. BRACKET
34. CLAMP

28
27
22
1
6 21
28 18
24 3 6

23

27 25
32 33 OLD STYLE
26

29
2 5

32 9

5
2
29

FIGURE 35. HEADER HOSES – THREE–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT MAST

47
 = HOSE “A”
= HOSE “B”
= HOSE “C”
= HOSE “D”

12850

FRONT VIEW A B C D

FIGURE 36. HEADER HOSE ALIGNMENT – THREE–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT MAST (1 OF 3)

48
 = HOSE “A”

MARK “G” ON HOSES “A” = HOSE “B”

AND “D” IS ALIGNED AT = HOSE “C”
THE BOTTOM OF THIS
CLAMP .MARK “G” ON = HOSE “D”
HOSES “B” AND “C” IS
ALIGNED AT THE TOP
OF THE CLAMP
C

B A

D A
C B

C
B A
D

LEFT HAND CYLINDER RIGHT HAND CYLINDER

ALIGN MARK “E” AT THE

BOTTOM OF THIS
CLAMP

12850

REAR VIEW

FIGURE 36. HEADER HOSE ALIGNMENT – THREE–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT MAST (2 OF 3)

49
 1. HOSE GUIDE
2. HOSE 5
3. BOTTOM CROSSMEMBER,
INNER CHANNEL FORKS
4. FREE–LIFT CYLINDER
5. CYLINDER GUARD

D C B A
D A
2 4
C B 2
2 2
1
1
D A B
C C B
D A 12850

1
1

FIGURE 36. HEADER HOSE ALIGNMENT – THREE–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT MAST (3 OF 3)

Adjustment Of Hoses After Installation,
Three–Stage, FFL Mast (See FIGURE 28. And
FIGURE 34. Through FIGURE 36.)
1. If the tension of the hoses is correct between the car-
riage and the clamp (21) at the free–lift bracket (22), go
to step 2. If the tension of the hoses is wrong, loosen the
clamps (21) and pull (if the hoses are loose) or push (if
the hoses are tight) on the hoses so that they move 15
mm (0.6 in). Tighten the hardware to 8 Nm (71 lbf in).
2. If the tension of the hoses is correct between the clamp
(34) at the upper bracket (12) and the clamp (21) at the
free–lift bracket (22), go to step 3. If the tension of the
hoses is wrong, loosen the clamps (34) and pull (if the
hoses are too loose) or push (if the hoses are too tight) on
the hoses so that they move 15 mm (0.6 in) plus the
amount the hoses were moved in step 1. Tighten the
hardware to 8 Nm (71 lbf in).
3. With no load on the forks, check the header hose ad-
justment by operating the mast through the full lift cycle
two times. When properly adjusted, the hoses will not be
so tight that they compress when they pass over the
sheaves nor will they be so loose that they touch the load
backrest or any crossmember that is next to a sheave. If
necessary, repeat steps 1 and 2 until the hoses are proper-
ly adjusted.

50
 CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS
CHECK FOR LEAKS IN THE LIFT AND
TILT SYSTEM
WARNING
During the test procedures for the hydraulic system,
use chains to fasten the load to the carriage to pre-
vent it from falling. Keep all people away from the
lift truck during the tests.
Do NOT try to find hydraulic leaks by putting your
hand on hydraulic components under pressure. Hy-
draulic oil can be injected into the body by the pres-
sure.
Check The Lift Cylinders For Leaks
1. Operate the hydraulic system. Put a capacity load on
the forks and raise and lower the load several times.
Lower the load and tilt the mast forward and backward
several times. Check for leaks.
2. Raise the carriage and load one metre (3 ft). If the car-
riage slowly lowers when the control valve is in the Neu-
tral position, there are leaks in the hydraulic system. The
maximum speed that the carriage is allowed to lower is
50 mm (2 in) per 10 minutes when the hydraulic oil is
30°C (90°F). If the oil temperature is 70°C (160°F), the
maximum speed that the carriage can lower is 150 mm
(6 in) per 10 minutes.
3. Check the lift cylinders for internal leaks. Remove the
load from the forks. Install a gate valve in the supply line
between the main control valve and the mast. Put a ca-
pacity load on the forks again. Raise the carriage one
meter (3 ft). Close the gate valve. If the carriage or mast
weldments lower slowly, the seals in the lift cylinders
have leaks.
4. If the carriage does not move, open the gate valve and
check the movement again. If the carriage lowers when
the gate valve is open, check for leaks in the hydraulic
lines and fittings. If no leaks are found, the main control
valve can be worn or damaged. Remove the load from
the forks.
Check The Tilt Cylinders For Leaks
1. Put a capacity load on the forks. Slowly tilt the mast
forward. If the mast continues to slowly tilt forward
when the control valve is in the Neutral position, there
are leaks inside the hydraulic system. The maximum
speed that the mast is allowed to tilt forward when there
are internal leaks in the lift system is 13 mm (0.5 in) per
10 minutes (measured at rod in the tilt cylinder). The
maximum speed is measured when the hydraulic oil is
30°C (90°F). If the oil temperature is 70°C (160°F), the
maximum speed 39 mm (1.5 in) per 10 minutes.
2. If the leak rate is greater than the specifications, re-
move the load from the mast. Install a valve between the
port at the front of the tilt cylinder and the hydraulic line.
Put the load on the forks again. Close the valve. If the
mast tilts slowly forward, the cylinder seals are leaking.
3. If the mast does not move, open the gate valve and
check the movement again. If the mast moves forward
when the gate valve is open, check for leaks in the hy-
draulic lines and fittings. If no leaks are found, the main
control valve can be worn or damaged. Remove the load
from the forks when the checks are complete.
ADJUST THE TILT CYLINDERS
(See FIGURE 37.)
WARNING
When the tilt cylinders have tilt limit spacers, make
sure they are installed during installation proce-
dures. Without the tilt limit spacers, the mast can tilt
too much and cause an accident or serious injury.
Check the tilt cylinder stroke by slowly tilting the mast
fully forward and backward several times. Both tilt cyl-
inders must stop their stroke at the same time. Adjust the
rod ends to dimension “A” for all tilt cylinders as shown
in FIGURE 37. There must be no twist in the mast weld-
ments.
1. Adjust the stroke of the tilt cylinders WITHOUT tilt
limit spacers as follows:
a. Adjust the rod ends to dimension “A” for all tilt
cylinders as shown in FIGURE 37.
b. Slowly tilt the mast backward until one cylinder
rod stops. On the opposite cylinder, loosen the cap-
screws on the rod end. Measure the distance from the
end of cylinder to the back end of the rod end. Use a
wrench and turn the cylinder rod IN until the dimen-
sion starts to decrease, then stop. Repeat this proce-
dure until both cylinder rods stop at the same position
within 1 mm (0.04 in). After the adjustments are com-
plete, tighten the capscrews on the rod ends.
51
 b. Slowly tilt the mast forward until one cylinder rod
1 stops. On the opposite cylinder, loosen the capscrews
3
on the rod end. Use a wrench and turn the cylinder rod
2
4 5 IN as necessary. Repeat this procedure until both cyl-
inder rods stop at the same position within 1 mm (0.04
in).

c. Slowly tilt the mast backward until one rod end just
contacts the spacer. Add shims to fill the gap at the op-
2 posite rod end until both rod ends contact the spacers
within 0.5 mm (0.02 in).
12791
d. After the adjustments are complete, tighten the
capscrews on the rod ends.

e. Tilt the mast fully backward and measure the tilt

angle. (See the Nameplate for tilt angles.) If necessary,
15 mm add an equal number of shims to both rods for the cor-
(0.6 in) rect angle.
DIMENSION
H/S/E/J2.00–3.20XM A
(H/S/E/J40–65XM) ADJUST THE LIFT CHAINS
S/E/J2.00–3.00XL
(S/E/J/40–60XL)
WARNING
THE END OF THE ROD DIMENSION
When working on or near the mast, see SAFETY
IS EVEN WITH THE A PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE
FRONT FACE OF THE MAST in this section.
ROD END.
12791 During the test procedures for the mast, use chains to
fasten the load to the carriage to prevent it from fall-
ing. Keep all people away from the lift truck during
the tests.
Never allow anyone under a raised carriage. Do
NOT put any part of your body in or through the lift
H/S/E1.50–1.75XM, H/S/E2.00XMS
(H/S/E25–35XM, H/S/E40XMS) mechanism unless all parts of the mast are com-
and pletely lowered and the engine is STOPPED.
J1.60–2.00XMT (J30–40XMT)
When the lift chains are correctly adjusted:
1. MAST
2. ROD END 4. TILT LIMIT SPACER • The tension will be the same on each chain of the
3. SHIMS 5. TILT CYLINDER chain set. Check tension by pushing on both
FIGURE 37. TILT CYLINDER ADJUSTMENTS chains at the same time.
• The chain length will be correct.
• The chains must travel freely through the com-
c. Tilt the mast fully backward and measure the tilt plete cycle.
angle. (See the Nameplate for tilt angles.) If necessary,
adjust both rod ends equally for the correct angle. 1. Adjust the lift chains that are connected to the carriage
as follows:
2. Adjust the stroke of the tilt cylinders WITH tilt limit
spacers as follows: a. Put the mast in a vertical position. Adjust the lift
chains at the chain anchors so that the lower edge
a. Adjust the rod ends to dimension “A” for all tilt of the bottom carriage bar is 82.5 mm (3.25 in)
cylinders as shown in FIGURE 37. above the floor surface.
52
2. Adjust the main lift chains for the three–stage mast as
follows:
a. Adjust the chain anchors at the main lift cylinders
so that the top of the inner weldment is even with
the top of the outer weldment within +1.5mm
(+0.06 in).
b. Adjust the chain for the carriage as described in
step 1.
3. When the chain adjustments are complete, make sure
that the threads on the nuts of the chain anchors are com-
pletely engaged. Make sure that all of the adjustment is
not removed from the chain anchors. The chain anchors
must be able to move in their sockets. See FIGURE 38.
Lower the mast completely and put a capacity load on
the forks. Tilt the mast fully backward and check the
amount that the bottom carriage load roller extends be-
low the inner channel. When adjustments are correct, no
more than one–third of the roller will be visible.
1 side to measure the amount of movement. Repeat this
3 b. Separate the weldments and change the shim ar-
4 find the tightest fit.
4691
2
1. TILT MAST FULLY BACKWARD
2. CARRIAGE ROLLER
3. FORK
4. CARRIAGE ROLLER MUST NOT
EXTEND MORE THAN 1/3 OF ROLLER
DIAMETER BELOW INNER MAST
CHANNEL
FIGURE 38. LIFT CHAIN ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUST THE MAST (See FIGURE 39.)
NOTE: Shims are installed on both sides of the load
rollers. Do not add or remove shims from the stub shafts.
To change the position of the roller on the stub shaft,
move the shims from one side of the load roller to the
other.
During assembly, the shim arrangement will be approxi-
mately the same as before disassembly. Check the clear-
ance and adjust for wear or change because of repairs.
1. The load rollers control the alignment of the mast
weldments. The alignment conditions are given on a list
below with the most important condition first. See
FIGURE 39.
a. The weldments must be parallel to each other.
b. Use shims to adjust the load rollers so that there is
zero clearance between the load roller and the channel
at the point of tightest fit.
c. The number of shims under a load roller must be
approximately the same as the stub shaft in the oppo-
site side of the weldment. The weldments will be ap-
proximately in the center.
2. Adjust the load rollers on the mast as follows:
a. Use a prybar to move the weldments from side–to–
step in a minimum of three different positions (top,
middle, bottom) of the weldments.
rangements as needed. Assemble the weldments.
Slide the weldment all the way to the top and bottom to
c. Repeat steps a and b until there is zero clearance at
the point of tightest fit.
d. Measure the distance between the channels of the
weldments on the top and bottom. Change shims to
keep the distance equal between the top and bottom of
the weldments. Also make sure that the weldments are
parallel within 1.5 mm (0.060 in).
3. Adjust the strip bearings. Insert shims between the
strip bearing and the channel. Adjust the strip bearings
so that the maximum clearance at the point of tightest fit
is 0.8 mm (0.030 in). See FIGURE 12.
53
ADJUST THE CARRIAGE
(See FIGURE 39.)
1. Install the load rollers on the carriage. Install the
shims for the rollers in the same sequence on the stub
shaft as before disassembly. When the carriage has six
load rollers there are no shims under the top load rollers.
2. Use a crane to raise the carriage up the inner weld-
ment. Find the tightest fit between the load rollers and
the inner weldment.
3. Remove the carriage from the mast. Adjust the shim
arrangement for each load roller for clearance between
the load roller and the inner weldment. Repeat steps 1
and 2 until there is zero clearance at the point of tightest
fit.
4. Keep the shim arrangement between the top and bot-
tom load rollers on the same side of the carriage approxi-
mately equal. Also keep the shim arrangement on each
side of the carriage approximately equal. The carriage
must be parallel with the inner weldment within +1.5
mm (0.060 in).

TOP VIEW MAST CARRIAGE

FRONT VIEW FRONT VIEW
1
6

2
2

3
4 6
5
4

6
4690

1. MAST WELDMENT (CHANNEL)

2. LOAD ROLLER 5. STUB SHAFT
3. SNAP RING 6. PARALLEL, EQUAL SPACE WITHIN 1.5 mm (0.060 in)
4. SHIMS 7. ADJUST LOAD ROLLERS FOR ZERO CLEARANCE

FIGURE 39. MAST AND CARRIAGE ADJUSTMENTS

54

TROUBLE
No movement of the lift or tilt cylin-
ders.
Slow movement of the lift or tilt cyl-
inders.
Rough movement of the mast as-
sembly.
Lift or tilt cylinders extend or retract
when the control valve lever (spool)
is in the NEUTRAL position.
TROUBLESHOOTING
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Linkage at the control valve is dis-
connected.
No oil or not enough oil in the hy-
draulic tank.
Relief valve is not set correctly.
Hydraulic pump does not operate or Repair or install new pump.
has damage.
No oil or not enough oil to the lift
cylinders.
Cylinders have internal or external
leaks.
Relief valve is not set correctly.
There is a restriction in a hydraulic
line.
Load is more than capacity.
Hydraulic control linkage is incor-
rectly adjusted
There is air in the hydraulic system.
Lift cylinder(s) is damaged.
Mast weldments are damaged or
not aligned.
Mast weldments are not lubricated
correctly.
Load check valve/s and spool/s
have damage.
Cylinder seals have leaks.
Hydraulic lines have leaks.
Leaks between the spool and the
bore.
PROCEDURE OR ACTION
Connect and adjust linkage.
Fill tank. Check for leaks.
Adjust or install new relief valve.
Fill tank. Check for leaks.
Repair leaks. Install new parts.
Adjust or install new relief valve.
Remove restriction. Install new
parts.
Reduce load.
Adjust the linkage
Remove air. Check for loose con-
nections or breaks in lines.
Repair or install new lift cylinder.
Align weldments. Install new parts.
Correct lubrication.
Repair or install new load check
valve and spool.
Install new seals.
Repair leaks. Install new parts. Re-
move air from the system.
Install new spool and O–ring seals.
55
 INTRODUCTION
GENERAL
This section contains a MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
and the instructions for maintenance and inspection.
The MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE has time intervals
for inspection, lubrication and maintenance for your lift
truck. The service intervals are given in both operating
hours recorded on the lift truck hour meter, and in calen-
dar time. The recommendation is to use the interval that
comes first.
The recommendation for the time intervals are for eight
hours of operation per day. The time intervals must be
decreased from the recommendations in the MAIN-
TENANCE SCHEDULE for the following conditions:
a. If the lift truck is used more than eight hours per
day.
b. If the lift truck must work in dirty operating condi-
tions.
Your dealer for Hyster lift trucks has the equipment and
trained service personnel to do a complete program of
inspection, lubrication, and maintenance. A regular pro-
gram of inspection, lubrication, and maintenance will
help your lift truck give more efficient performance and
operate for a longer period of time.
Some users have service personnel and equipment to do
the inspection, lubrication, and maintenance shown in
the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. Service Manuals
are available from your dealer for Hyster lift trucks to
help users who do their own maintenance.
WARNING
Do not make repairs or adjustments unless you have
both authorization and training. Repairs and ad-
justments that are not correct can make a dangerous
operating condition.
WARNING
Do not operate a lift truck that needs repairs. Report
the need for repairs immediately. If repair is necess-
ary, put a “DO NOT OPERATE” tag in the oper-
ator’s area. Remove the key from the key switch.
CAUTION
Disposal of lubricants and fluids must meet local en-
vironmental regulations.
Serial Number
The serial number for the lift truck is on the nameplate
and also on the front crossmember of the frame, on the
right–hand side.
HOW TO MOVE A DISABLED LIFT TRUCK
WARNING
Use extra caution when towing a lift truck if any of
the following conditions exist:
a. Brakes do not operate correctly.
b. Steering does not operate correctly.
c. Tires are damaged.
d. Traction conditions are bad.
e. The lift truck must be towed on a slope.
If the engine cannot run, there is no power available
for the hydraulic steering system and the service
brakes. This condition can make the lift truck diffi-
cult to steer and stop. If the lift truck uses power
from the engine to help apply the brakes, the applica-
tion of the brakes will be more difficult. Poor trac-
tion can cause the disabled lift truck or towing ve-
hicle to slide. A slope will also make the lift truck
more difficult to stop.
Never lift and move a disabled lift truck unless the
disabled lift truck MUST be moved and cannot be
towed. A lift truck used to move a disabled lift truck
MUST have a capacity rating equal to or greater
than the weight of the disabled lift truck. The capac-
ity of the lift truck used to move a disabled lift truck
must have a load centre equal to half the width of the
disabled lift truck. See the nameplate of the disabled
lift truck for the approximate total weight. The forks
must extend the full width of the disabled lift truck.
Put the weight centre of the disabled lift truck on
load centre of the forks. Be careful to not damage the
under side of the lift truck.
1
How To Tow the Lift Truck
1. The towed lift truck must have an operator.
2. Tow the lift truck slowly.
3. Raise the carriage and forks approximately 30 cm (12
inches) from the surface. Install a chain to prevent the
carriage and mast channels from moving.
4. If another lift truck is used to tow the disabled lift
truck, that lift truck must have an equal or larger capac-
ity than the disabled lift truck. Install approximately 1/2
of a capacity load on the forks of the lift truck that is
being used to tow the disabled lift truck. This 1/2 capac-
ity load will increase the traction of the towing lift truck.
Keep the load as low as possible.
5. Use a towing link made of steel that fastens to the tow
pins in the counterweights of both lift trucks.
HOW TO PUT A LIFT TRUCK ON BLOCKS
WARNING
The lift truck must be put on blocks for some types of
maintenance and repair. The removal of the follow-
ing assemblies will cause large changes in the centre
of gravity: mast, drive axle, engine and transmission,
and the counterweight. When the lift truck is put on
blocks, put additional blocks in the following posi-
tions to maintain stability:
a. Before removing the mast and drive axle, put
blocks under the counterweight so that the lift
truck can not fall backward.
b. Before removing the counterweight, put blocks
under the mast assembly so that the lift truck
can not fall forward.
2
The surface must be solid, even, and level when the
lift truck is put on blocks. Make sure that any blocks
used to support the lift truck are solid, one piece
units.
NOTE: Some lift trucks have lifting eyes. These lifting
eyes can be used to raise the lift truck so that blocks can
be installed.
How To Raise the Drive Tires (See FIGURE 1.)
1. Put blocks on each side (front and back) of the steer-
ing tires to prevent movement of the lift truck.
2. Put the mast in a vertical position. Put a block under
each outer mast channel.
3. Tilt the mast fully forward until the drive tires are
raised from the surface.
4. Put additional blocks under the frame behind the drive
tires.
5. If the hydraulic system will not operate, use a hy-
draulic jack under the side of the frame near the front.
Make sure that the jack has a capacity equal to at least
half the weight of the lift truck. See the nameplate.
How To Raise the Steering Tires
(See FIGURE 1.)
1. Apply the parking brake. Put blocks on both sides
(front and back) of the drive tires to prevent movement
of the lift truck.
2. Use a hydraulic jack to raise the steering tires. Make
sure that the jack has a capacity of at least 1/3 of the total
weight of the lift truck as shown on the nameplate.
3. Put the jack under the steering axle or frame to raise
the lift truck. Put blocks under the frame to support the
lift truck.
 DRIVE TIRES STEERING TIRES
FIGURE 1. PUT A LIFT TRUCK ON BLOCKS

1 4 6 8 9 11 13 2
2 3 5 7 10 12 14 GM 3.0L ENGINE SHOWN,
OTHER ENGINES SIMILAR

29 15

16

18 17 19
15

29
12788

2 4 26 10 22 20 1 16
28 27 25 23,24 21 3 2

FIGURE 2. MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION POINTS, S2.00–3.20XM (S40–64XM)

3
 1 4 6 8 9 11 13 2
2 3 5 7 10 12 14 GM 3.0L ENGINE SHOWN.
OTHERS ENGINES SIMILAR.
29

15

16
17 19
18
15

29
12788

2 4 26 10 22 20 1 16
28 27 25 23,24 21 3 2
FIGURE 3. MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION POINTS, H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM)

4
 MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
ITEM ITEM 8 hr/ 250 1000 2000 PROCEDURE SPECIFICATION
NO. 1 hr/ hr/ hr/ OR QUANTITY
day 6 wk 6 mo 1 yr

3 TIRES, TYRE PRESSURE X See Nameplate

15 MAST, CARRIAGE, X Check Condition See Parts Manual
LIFT CHAINS
19 FORKS X X Check Condition
CHECK FOR LEAKS— X Check for Leaks
FUEL, OIL, WATER
9 FUEL TANK X 85 Octane — Gasoline
Gasoline/Diesel CIL 51.3 litre (13.5 gal) Diesel No. 2
LPG 43.5 litre LPG — HD–5
HORN, GAUGES, LIGHTS, X Check Operation
ALARMS
14 SERVICE BRAKES AND X Check Operation
PARKING BRAKE X Check Operation
11 TRANSMISSION OIL CIL X C 9.0 litre (9.5 qt) Hyster Part No. 336831
10 ENGINE OIL X C API SE, MIL–L–46152
Mazda M4–2.0G CIL 4.3 litre (4.6 qt) 30°C (85°F) and up SAE 40
(Gasoline and LPG) 15–30°C (60–85°F) SAE 30
0–15°C (32–60°F) SAE 20W
less than –10°C (15°F)
SAE 10W
10 ENGINE OIL X C API SE/SF
GM 2.2L and 3.0L CIL 4.3 litre (4.6 qt) greater than –18°C (0°F)
(Gasoline and LPG) SAE 10W–30
10 ENGINE OIL X C API CC, CC/SE
Isuzu C240 (Diesel) CIL 6.5 litre (6.9 qt) 27°C (80°F) and up SAE 40
Isuzu 4JB1 (Diesel) 5.9 litre (6.2 qt) 0–32°C (32–90°F) SAE 30
Isuzu 4JG2 (Diesel) 6.7 litre (7.0 qt) less than –7°C (20°F) SAE
10W
6 ENGINE OIL FILTER C 1 – See NOTE 3 See Parts Manual
6 FUEL FILTER, DIESEL CIL C Clean or Replace See Parts Manual
See NOTE 1
13 BRAKE FLUID CIL X 0.2 litre (0.4 pt) SAE J–1703
24 HYDRAULIC OIL X C 35.0 litre (37.0 qt) –18°C (0°F) and Above
See NOTE 2 SAE 10W
API CC or CC/SE
4 COOLING SYSTEM CIL C
Mazda M4–2.0G 7.6 litre (8.0 qt) 50% Water with
GM 2.2L and 3.0L 11.0 litre (11.7 qt) 50% Ethylene Glycol*
Isuzu C240 11.4 litre (12.0 qt) *Boron–Free
Isuzu 4JB1 11.0 litre (11.7 qt) for Mazda Engines
Isuzu 4JG2 11.0 litre (11.7 qt)
X=Check C=Change L=Lubricate CIL = Check Indicator Light during operation
NOTE 1: Very dirty conditions will require daily clean and check.
NOTE 2: Heavy duty or high temperature operations will require more frequent checks.
NOTE 3: Change filters on NEW lift trucks at first 100 hours on hour meter.

5
ITEM ITEM 8 hr/ 250 1000 2000 PROCEDURE SPECIFICATION
NO. 1 hr/ hr/ hr/ OR QUANTITY
day 6 wk 6 mo 1 yr

7 AIR FILTER CIL Clean or Replace See Parts Manual

See NOTE 1 and
NOTE 2

25 BATTERY ELECTROLYTE X Check Level

23 HYDRAULIC TANK BREATHER X Clean or Replace See Parts Manual

1 WHEEL NUTS X Check Torque

[S2.00–3.200XM (S40–65XM))
DRIVE WHEELS 237 to 305 Nm
(175 to 225 lbf ft)
STEER WHEELS 34 Nm (25 lbf ft)

1 WHEEL NUTS X Check Torque

[H2.00–3.200XM (H45–65XM))
DRIVE WHEELS 610–680 N.m (450–500 lbf ft)
Dual Wheels 155 N.m (115 lbf ft)
STEER WHEELS
Two–Piece Wheels 610–680 N.m (450–500 lbf ft)

17 LIFT CHAINS X, L As Required Engine Oil

ENGINE SPEED X Adjust as Required

IDLE SPEED
Mazda M4–2.0G 700 to 750 rpm
GM 2.2L – Gasoline 775 to 825 rpm
GM 2.2L – LPG 850 to 950 rpm
GM 3.0L – Gasoline 775 to 825 rpm
GM 3.0L – LPG 700 to 750 rpm
Isuzu C240 750 to 800 rpm
Isuzu 4JB1 750 to 800 rpm
Isuzu 4JG2 700 to 750 rpm
GOVERNED SPEED
Mazda M4–2.0G 2600 to 2700 rpm
GM 2.2L 2850 to 2950 rpm
GM 3.0L 2850 to 2950 rpm
Isuzu C240 2600 to 2700 rpm
Isuzu 4JB1 and 4JG2 2100 to 2200 rpm

29 STEERING AXLE
[H2.00–3.200XM (H45–65XM)) Multipurpose Grease
TIE RODS L 4 Fittings See NOTE 4
KING PIN BEARINGS L 2 Fittings
STEERING AXLE
[S2.00–3.200XM (S40–65XM))
SPINDLE BEARINGS L 2 Fittings
26 SPARK PLUGS C See Parts Manual
Mazda M4–2.0G 4 0.8 mm (0.032 in)
GM 2.2L and 3.0L 4
PEDALS, LEVERS, SEAT L Lubricate as Hyster Part No. 328388
RAILS, CABLES, HINGES, Necessary
LINKAGES, HOOD LATCH
18 DIFFERENTIAL OIL X C SAE 80W–90, 85W–140
[S2.00–3.200XM (S40–65XM)) 3.8 litre (4.0 qt)
[H2.00–3.200XM (H45–65XM)) 7.6 litre (8.0 qt)

X=Check C=Change L=Lubricate CIL = Check Indicator Light during operation

NOTE 1: Very dirty conditions will require daily clean and check.
NOTE 2: Heavy duty or high temperature operations will require more frequent checks.
NOTE 4: Multipurpose grease with 2 to 4% Molybdenum Disulfide.

6
ITEM ITEM 8 hr/ 250 1000 2000 PROCEDURE SPECIFICATION
NO. 1 hr/ hr/ hr/ OR QUANTITY
day 6 wk 6 mo 1 yr
22 VALVE ADJUSTMENT X Adjust as Required
Mazda M4–2.0G 0.30 mm (0.012 in) Hot
GM 2.2L and 3.0L Not Adjustable
Isuzu C240 0.45 mm (0.018 in) Cold
Isuzu 4JB1 and 4JG2 0.40 mm (0.016 in) Cold
22 PCV VALVE X C Replace as See Parts Manual
Necessary
INCHING/BRAKE PEDAL X Adjust as Required
27 DRIVE BELT AND TIMING BELT X Adjust or Replace See Parts Manual
See NOTE 5
TIMING X Adjust as Required
Mazda M4–2.0G 0° TDC (WHITE mark)
Gasoline
LPG 9° BTDC (RED mark)
GM 2.2L and 3.0L Electronic Control
Isuzu C240 9° BTDC Static
Isuzu 4JB1 16° BTDC Static
Isuzu 4JG2 6° BTDC Static
MAST
16 PIVOTS L 2 Fittings Multipurpose Grease
SLIDING SURFACES AND See NOTE 4
LOAD ROLLER SURFACES L As Required
SIDE–SHIFT CARRIAGE L 3 Fittings
21 HYDRAULIC OIL FILTER C 1 – See NOTE 3 See Parts Manual
9 FUEL FILTER, C 1 See Parts Manual
GASOLINE & LPG
12 TRANSMISSION OIL FILTER C 1 – See NOTE 3 See Parts Manual
2 WHEEL BEARINGS
Drive Wheel (Inner) L 0.5 kg (1lb) Multipurpose Grease
Steer Wheels L As Required See NOTE 4
28 COOLANT HOSES X Check Condition See Parts Manual
SAFETY LABELS X Replace as See Parts Manual
Necessary
SEAT BELT, HIP RESTRAINTS X Check Condition
AND SEAT RAILS
HOOD AND SEAT LATCHES X Check Condition
STEERING CONTROLS X Check Operation
STEERING COLUMN LATCH X Check Operation
20 TRANSMISSION X Check Operation
ATTACHMENTS AND OPTIONS See NOTE 6 As Specified
X=Check C=Change L=Lubricate CIL = Check Indicator Light during operation
NOTE 1: Very dirty conditions will require daily clean and check.
NOTE 2: Heavy duty or high temperature operations will require more frequent checks.
NOTE 3: Change filters on NEW lift trucks at first 100 hours on hour meter.
NOTE 4: Multipurpose grease with 2 to 4% Molybdenum Disulfide.
NOTE 5: Replace timing belt on Mazda and GM engines every 2000 hours. Use only hour interval.
NOTE 6: Perform maintenance as specified by the manufacturer.

7
 MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES
EVERY 8 HOURS OR DAILY
WARNING
Do not operate a lift truck that needs repairs. Report
the need for repairs immediately. If repair is necess-
ary, put a “DO NOT OPERATE” tag in the oper-
ator’s area. Remove the key from the key switch.
HOW TO MAKE CHECKS WITH THE
ENGINE STOPPED
Put the lift truck on a level surface. Lower the carriage
and forks, stop the engine and apply the parking brake.
Open the hood and check for leaks and conditions that
are not normal. Clean any oil or fuel spills. Make sure
that lint, dust, paper, and other materials are removed
from the engine compartment.
Tires and Wheels (See FIGURE 4.)
WARNING
Air pressure in pneumatic tires can cause tire and
wheel parts to explode. The explosion of wheel parts
can cause serious injury or death.
Remove all of the air from the tires before the tires
are removed from the lift truck.
If the air pressure is less than 80% of the correct air
pressure, the tire must be removed before air is
added. Put the tire in a safety cage when adding air
pressure to the tire. Follow the procedures described
in “Add Air To The Tires”.
1 1
3
2
1 1
9447
1. CHECK FOR DAMAGE (REMOVE NAILS, GLASS AND
OTHER OBJECTS FROM THE TREAD)
2. MAKE SMOOTH EDGES
3. CHECK THE TIRE PRESSURE (PNEUMATIC TIRES)
FIGURE 4. CHECK THE TIRES
8
When air is added to the tires, use a remote air chuck.
The person adding air must stand away and to the
side and not in front of the tire.
If the lift truck has pneumatic tires, keep the tires at the
correct air pressure. (See the Nameplate.) Check the air
pressure with a gauge when the tires are cold. If it is
necessary to add air to a tire that is warm, check one of
the other tires on the same axle and add air to the tire that
has low pressure so that the air pressures are equal. The
air pressure of the warm tires must always be equal to or
greater than the specification for air pressure for cold
tires.
Check the tires for damage. Inspect the tread and re-
move any objects that will cause damage. Check for
bent or damaged rims. Check for loose or missing parts.
Remove any wire, straps or other material wrapped
around the axle.
Make sure the drive wheel nuts are tight. Tighten the
wheel nuts in a cross pattern to the correct torque value
shown in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE.
CAUTION
When the drive wheels have been installed check all
wheel nuts after 2 to 5 hours of operation. Tighten
the nuts in a cross pattern to the correct torque value
shown in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. When
the nuts stay tight for eight hours, the interval for
checking the torque can be extended to 250 hours.
2
11402
Forks
The identification of a fork describes how the fork is
connected to the carriage. These lift trucks have hook–
type forks. See FIGURE 6.
Forks, Adjustment
The forks are connected to the carriage by hooks and
lock pins. See FIGURE 6. These lock pins are installed
through the top fork hooks and fit into slots in the top
carriage bar. Adjust the forks as far apart as possible for
maximum support of the load. Hook forks will slide
along the carriage bars to adjust for the load to be lifted.
Raise the lock pin in each fork to slide the fork on the
carriage bar. Make sure the lock pin is engaged in the
carriage bar to lock the fork in position after the width
adjustment is made.
A fork can be removed from the carriage for replace-
ment of the fork or other maintenance. Slide the fork to
the fork removal notch on the bottom carriage bar. See
FIGURE 6. Lower the fork onto blocks so that the bot-
tom hook of the fork moves through the fork removal
notch. See FIGURE 5. Lower the carriage further so
that the top hook of the fork is disengaged from the top
carriage bar. Move the carriage away from the fork, or
use a lifting device to move the fork away from the car-
riage.
1. CARRIAGE BARS
2. HOOK FORK
3. BLOCKS
1
2

ÉÉÉ ÉÉ
Forks, Removal

WARNING
ÉÉÉ ÉÉ
Do not try to move a fork without a lifting device.
Each hook fork for these lift trucks can weigh 45 kg
ÉÉÉ 3 ÉÉ
FIGURE 5. REMOVE A HOOK FORK
to 115 kg (100 to 250 lb).

6 2 4

2
1545

1. FORK 4. LOCK PIN ASSEMBLY

5 2. HOOK 5. FORK REMOVAL NOTCH
3. CARRIAGE 6. LOAD BACKREST EXTENSION

FIGURE 6. CARRIAGE AND FORKS

9
Forks, Installation
WARNING
Do not try to move a fork without a lifting device.
Each hook fork for these lift trucks can weigh 45 kg
to 115 kg (100 to 250 lb).
Move the fork and carriage so that the top hook on the
fork can engage the upper carriage bar. Raise the car-
riage to move the lower hook through the fork removal
notch. Slide the fork on the carriage so that both upper
and lower hooks engage the carriage. Engage the lock
pin with a notch in the upper carriage bar.
Inspection Of Forks, Mast, and Lift Chains
(See FIGURE 7. and FIGURE 8.)
WARNING
When working on or near the mast, see SAFETY
PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE
MAST in GENERAL PROCEDURES in this sec-
tion.
Lower the lift mechanism completely. Never allow
any person under a raised carriage. Do not put any
part of your body in or through the lift mechanism
unless all parts of the mast are completely lowered
and the engine is STOPPED.
6 1. TIP ALIGNMENT (MUST BE WITHIN
3 3. LATCH DAMAGE
5 DIMENSION “X”)
X 5. CARRIAGE
2
4 FORK TIP ALIGNMENT
7 1
10221
FIGURE 7. CHECK THE FORKS
10
Do not try to correct the alignment of the fork tips by
bending the forks or adding shims. Replace dam-
aged forks.
Never repair damaged forks by heating or welding.
Forks are made of special steel using special pro-
cedures. Replace damaged forks.
1. Inspect the welds on the mast and carriage for cracks.
Make sure that the capscrews and nuts are tight.
2. Inspect the channels for wear in the areas where the
rollers travel. Inspect the rollers for wear or damage.
3. Inspect the load backrest extension for cracks and
damage.
4. Inspect the forks for cracks and wear. Check that the
fork tips are aligned as shown in FIGURE 7. Check that
the bottom of the fork is not worn (Item 4).
5. Replace any damaged or broken parts that are used to
keep the forks locked in position.
6. If the lift truck is equipped with a side–shift carriage
or attachment, inspect the parts for cracks and wear.
Make sure the parts that fasten the side–shift carriage or
attachment to the carriage are in good condition.
3% OF FORK LENGTH
2. CRACKS
4. HEEL OF FORK (MUST BE 90% OF
6. LOAD BACKREST EXTENSION
7. MAXIMUM ANGLE 93°
LENGTH OF FORKS 3% DIMENSION
915 mm (36 in) 27 mm (1.10 in)
1220 mm (48 in) 37 mm (1.45 in)
1830 mm (72 in) 55 mm (2.15 in)
7. Check that the lift chains are correctly lubricated. Use
SAE 30 engine oil to lubricate the lift chains.
8. Inspect the lift chains for cracks or broken links and
pins. (See FIGURE 8.)
9. Inspect the chain anchors and pins for cracks and
damage.
10. Make sure the lift chains are adjusted so that they
have equal tension. Adjustment or replacement of the
lift chains must be done by authorized personnel. See
Lift Chain Adjustments described in the GENERAL
PROCEDURES later in this section.
Operator Restraint System (See FIGURE 9.)
The seat belt, hip restraints, seat and mount, hood and
latches are all part of the operator restraint system. Each
item must be checked to make sure it is fastened correct-
ly, functions correctly and is in good condition.
See FIGURE 9. Make sure the seat rails and latch striker
are not loose. The seat rails must lock tightly in position,
but move freely when unlocked. The seat rails must be
correctly fastened to the mount surface. If the mount
surface is the hood, the hood must be fastened to the
floor plate with the latch. The floor plate must be fas-
tened to the lift truck frame. Try to lift the hood to make
sure it is fastened correctly and will not move.

The end of the seat belt must fasten correctly in the latch.
1
7 Make sure the seat belt pulls from the retractor assembly
and retracts smoothly. The seat belt must be in good
condition. A seat belt that is damaged or worn will not
give protection when it is needed.

Hood Latch For EEC Countries

5 (See FIGURE 10.)
6
2
4 Lift trucks manufactured in 1996 and later for sale in
3 EEC countries do not have an exposed hood latch. There
is a slot behind the operator’s seat for access to the hood
latch. Se FIGURE 10. Use the ignition key as a tool to
6705 open the hood latch.
1. WORN PIN
2. CRACKS 5. LOOSE LEAVES
3. EDGE WEAR 6. DAMAGED PIN H2.00–3.20XM lift trucks. Push the ignition key
4. HOLE WEAR 7. CORROSION straight down into the slot to open the hood latch.

FIGURE 8. CHECK THE LIFT CHAINS S2.00–3.20XM lift trucks. Use the ignition key to slide
the the mechanism to the right to open the hood latch.

Safety Labels
WARNING
Safety labels are installed on the lift truck to give in-
formation about operation and possible hazards. It
is important that all safety labels are installed on the
lift truck and can be read.
The end of the seat belt must fasten correctly in the latch.
Make sure the seat belt pulls from the retractor assembly
and retracts smoothly. The seat belt must be in good
condition. A seat belt that is damaged or worn will not
give protection when it is needed. If the seat belt can not
be pulled from the retractor assembly, replace the seat
belt assembly.

Check that all safety labels are installed in the correct
location on the lift truck. See the PARTS MANUAL or
the FRAME section of the SERVICE MANUAL for
the correct location of the safety labels. See the
FRAME section for the installation procedure.
Steering Column Latch
Make sure the latch for the steering column operates
correctly. The latch must NOT allow the column to
move unless the latch is released.

11
 1. LATCH STRIKER
2. HOOD LATCH 6
3. LATCH LEVER
4. SEAT 5 4
5. SEAT BELT LATCH
6. HIP RESTRAINT
7. SEAT RAIL
8. HOOD 3 2
9. HINGE
10. GAS CYLINDER 1
8

10 7

11858

FIGURE 9. CHECK THE HOOD AND SEAT

3 2 1. INSTRUCTION LABEL
2
2. SLOT FOR LATCH
H2.00–3.20XM ACCESS
3. OPERATOR’S SEAT S2.00–3.20XM

FIGURE 10. HOOD LATCH (EEC COUNTRIES)

Check For Fuel, Oil Or Coolant Leaks
WARNING
All fuels are very flammable and can burn or cause
an explosion. Do not use an open flame to check the
fuel level or to check for leaks in the fuel system. If
there is a leak in the fuel system, extra care must be
used during the repair. Do not operate the lift truck
until a leak is repaired.
Long term exposure to used engine oil can cause skin
irritation or cancer. Wash with detergent and water.
Make a visual check for leaks on and under the lift truck.
If possible, find and repair the leak at the source. Leaks
often indicate a need for repair of damaged or worn
components. Leaks in the LPG fuel system are usually
not visible unless ice is visible. There is however,
usually a strong odour. Fuel leaks MUST be repaired
NOW.
Check the fuel system for leaks and the condition of
parts. When fuel is added to the lift truck, see the section,
How To Add Fuel To The Lift Truck in the OPERAT-
ING MANUAL

12
Also check the condition of the radiator or heater hoses
that are not leaking. Soft or cracked hoses need to be re-
placed before a major leak occurs.

GM 2.2L, GASOLINE AND LPG MAZDA M4–2.0G, GASOLINE AND LPG

10 7
7
9 9 8
8
10
6

6
4
4
7 8 11
11 1,5 3
3 1
2 2
9 1
8. FUEL FILTER
1. DIPSTICK FOR ENGINE OIL 11 9. ENGINE OIL FILTER
2. BATTERY 10. PCV VALVE
3. AUXILIARY COOLANT 6 11. SPARK PLUGS
RESERVOIR
4. RADIATOR CAP
5. ENGINE OIL FILL 5
6. DRIVE BELTS
7. AIR FILTER 4
10
3
GM 3.0L,
GASOLINE
ISUZU 4JB1 OR 4JG2 AND LPG ISUZU C240
7 7
2 8 9
9
1
8
6 6

5
5
4
4
1 10
3 3 10
2 2
12622

FIGURE 11. ENGINE MAINTENANCE POINTS

13
Drive Belt (See FIGURE 11.)
Check the drive belts for wear and damage.
Engine Oil (See FIGURE 11.)
Check the oil level in the engine daily. After the engine
has stopped, wait one minute before checking the oil
level. Keep the oil at the correct level as indicated on the
dipstick. Use the correct oil as shown in the MAINTEN-
ANCE SCHEDULE.
There is an indicator light on the instrument cluster for
the engine oil pressure. The red light is ON when the key
switch is in the START position and must go OFF when
the engine is running. If the light is ON when the engine
is running, the engine oil pressure is low. Stop the engine
and check the oil level.
Hydraulic System (See FIGURE 12.)
Check the hydraulic oil level every 250 hours of oper-
ation. Heavy duty or high temperature operations will
require more frequent checks.
WARNING
At operating temperature the hydraulic oil is HOT.
Do not permit the hot oil to touch the skin and cause a
burn.
CAUTION
Do not permit dirt to enter the hydraulic system
when the oil level is checked or the filter is changed.
Never operate the hydraulic pump without oil in the
hydraulic system. The operation of the hydraulic
pump without oil will damage the pump.
Check the hydraulic oil level when the oil is at operating
temperature, the carriage is lowered and the engine is
stopped. Add hydraulic oil only as needed. If more hy-
draulic oil is added than the “FULL” level, the hydraulic
oil will leak from the breather during operation. The oil
level indicated by the dipstick is most accurate when the
oil temperature is 53 to 93°C (130 to 200°F).
Check the hydraulic system for leaks and damaged or
loose components.
14
1
12790
1. HYDRAULIC TANK DIPSTICK
FIGURE 12. HYDRAULIC SYSTEM OIL
Battery (See FIGURE 11.)
Check the battery electrolyte level every 250 hours of
operation. Heavy duty or high temperature operations
will require more frequent checks.It is not necessary to
check the electrolyte level on a maintenance–free bat-
tery. A low electrolyte level can cause the alternator
warning light to come ON or cause battery damage dur-
ing lift truck operation.
WARNING
The acid in the electrolyte can cause injury. If the
electrolyte is spilled, use water to flush the area. Use
a solution of sodium bicarbonate (soda) to make the
acid neutral. Acid in the eyes must be flushed with
water immediately. Wear eye protection.
Batteries generate explosive fumes. Keep the vents in
the caps clean. Keep sparks or open flame away from
the battery area. Do not make sparks from the bat-
tery connections. Disconnect the battery ground
cable when doing maintenance.
CAUTION
Batteries must be discarded according to local envi-
ronmental regulations.
Keep the battery and cable terminals clean. Check the
electrolyte level (unless maintenance–free battery).
Keep the electrolyte level above the separators and
plates. Use distiled water. Do not fill the battery more
than to the bottom of the internal filler neck.
If the battery becomes discharged and requires a booster
battery to start the engine, follow these procedures care-
fully when connecting the jumper cables:
a. Always connect the positive jumper cable to the
positive terminal of the discharged battery and the
negative jumper cable to the negative terminal.
b. Always connect the jumper cable that is the
ground cable last.
c. Always connect the jumper cables to the dis-
charged battery before connecting them to the
booster battery.
Air Filter (See FIGURE 13.)
There is an indicator light on the instrument cluster for
the air filter. The red light is ON when the key switch is
in the START position and must go OFF when the en-
gine is running. If the light is ON when the engine is run-
ning, the air filter has a restriction and needs cleaning.
Clean or install a new air filter as necessary. Use com-
pressed air to clean the filter element. Air pressure must
be less than 210 kPa (30 psi). Apply the air from the in-
side to the outside of the filter element.
Inspect the filter element. Put a bright light inside the
filter element and look for holes or other damage. If the
filter element is damaged, install a new filter element.
Use a cloth with solvent to clean the inside of the can-
ister when the filter element is installed.
1 6 7
4 5
3
2 3. SEAL
4. CLAMP
1. CANISTER 5. WING NUT
2. FILTER 6. BAFFLE
ELEMENT 7. END COVER
FIGURE 13. AIR FILTER
HOW TO MAKE CHECKS WITH THE
ENGINE RUNNING
WARNING
FASTEN YOUR SEAT BELT! The seat belt is in-
stalled to help the operator stay on the truck if the lift
truck tips over. IT CAN ONLY HELP IF IT IS FAS-
TENED.
Make sure that the area around the lift truck is clear be-
fore starting the engine or making any checks of the
operation. Be careful when making the checks. If the lift
truck is stationary during a check, apply the parking
brake and put the transmission in NEUTRAL. Make the
checks carefully.
Gauges, Indicator Lights, Horn, Fuses and
Relays
Check the operation of the horn. Turn the key switch to
the ON position. Check all the gauges and indicator
lights for correct operation as described in the OPER-
ATING MANUAL. Start the engine. If any of the indi-
cator lights or gauges do not operate correctly, check the
fuses. The fuses are under the instrument panel on the
left side of the cowl. See FIGURE 14.
Engine Oil Pressure
There is an indicator light on the instrument cluster for
the engine oil pressure. The red light is ON when the key
switch is in the START position and must go OFF when
the engine is running. If the light is ON when the engine
is running, the engine oil pressure is low.
Some units have a gauge for oil pressure. If the needle is
in the red zone, the oil pressure is too low. Stop the en-
gine and check the oil level.
NOTE: The engine will stop after a 30 second warning
buzzer if engine oil pressure is less than 13.8 kPa (2 psi)
on S2.00–3.20XM lift trucks with protection system.
15
 1 1. TRANSMISSION
SOLENOIDS (5 amp)
9 2. HORN (10 amp)
3. GLOW PLUG RELAY,
2 DIESEL (30 amp)
3 4. LIGHTS (25 amp)
5. TURN SIGNALS/BRAKE
4 LIGHTS (10 amp)
5 6. LIGHTS (30 amp)
10 7. INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
6 (30 amp)
7 11 8. HEATER
9. FRONT WIPER
8 10. REAR WIPER
11. HORN RELAY
12. LIGHT RELAY
13. TURN SIGNAL RELAY
14. REAR LIGHT RELAY
13 15. ACCESSORY RELAY

14

12 NOTE: There is also a 50 amp alternator

fuse near the alternator. Some units also
15 have a relay near the battery.
12200

FIGURE 14. FUSES AND RELAYS

Cooling System Transmission Oil Level (See FIGURE 15.)
Check the transmission oil level every 250 hours of
There is an indicator light on the instrument cluster for operation. Heavy duty or high temperature operations
the coolant temperature. The red light is ON when the will require more frequent checks.
key switch is in the START position and must go OFF
when the engine is running. If the light is ON when the
engine is running, the coolant and engine are too hot. 1
Stop the engine and check the coolant level in the cool-
ant recovery reservoir.

Some units have a gauge for coolant temperature. If the

needle is in the red zone when the engine is running, the
coolant and engine are too hot. Stop the engine and
check the coolant level in the coolant recovery reservoir.

WARNING 2
DO NOT remove the radiator cap from the radiator
when the engine is hot. When the radiator cap is re-
moved, the pressure is released from the system. If 1. ACCESS DOOR
the system is hot, the steam and boiling coolant can 2. DIPSTICK FOR TRANSMISSION 11703

cause burns.
NOTE: The engine will stop after a 30 second warning
buzzer if coolant is over 121°C (250°F) on
S2.00–3.20XM lift trucks with protection system.
FIGURE 15. CHECK THE OIL LEVEL FOR THE
TRANSMISSION
There is an indicator light on the instrument cluster for
the transmission oil temperature. The red light is ON
when the key switch is in the START position and must

16
go OFF when the engine is running. If the light is ON
when the engine is running, the temperature of the trans-
mission oil is too high. Stop the operation of the lift
truck. Make a visual check of the transmission and
check the transmission oil level.
Apply the parking brake. Check the oil level in the trans-
mission when the engine is running at idle speed and the
transmission oil is at operating temperature. If the lift
truck has a direction control lever, put the direction con-
trol lever in the NEUTRAL (N) position. Use the cor-
rect oil shown in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE.
Keep the oil level at the “FULL” mark on the dipstick.
NOTE: The engine will stop after a 30 second warning
buzzer if coolant is over 121°C (250°F) on
S2.00–3.20XM lift trucks with protection system.
Steering System
WARNING
The lift truck has hydraulic power steering. The
steering can be difficult when the engine is not run-
ning.
Make sure the steering system operates smoothly and
gives good steering control. Make sure the steering col-
umn can be adjusted and the latch function is correct.
Service Brakes
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL
There is an indicator light on the instrument cluster for
the brake fluid. The red light is ON when the key switch
is in the START position and must go OFF when the en-
gine is running. If the light is ON when the engine is run-
ning, the brake fluid level in the reservoir is too low.
WARNING
Loss of fluid from the brake fluid reservoir indicates
a leak. Repair the brake system before using the lift
truck. Replace the brake fluid in the system if there is
dirt, water or oil in the system.
CHECK OPERATION
Check the operation of the service brakes. Push on the
inching/brake pedal. The service brakes must be applied
before the inching/brake pedal reaches the floor plate.
The pedal must stop firmly and must not move slowly
down after the brakes are applied. The service brakes
must apply equally to both drive wheels. The service
brakes must not pull the lift truck to either side of the
direction of travel when they are applied. The service
brakes are automatically adjusted when the brakes are
applied and the lift truck changes direction. Full ap-
plication of the inching/brake pedal applies the service
brakes and puts the transmission in NEUTRAL.
Lift trucks with a MONOTROL pedal: When the
inching/brake pedal is fully applied, a switch in the start-
ing circuit is closed so that the engine can be started.
Parking Brake (See FIGURE 16.)
Check the operation of the parking brake. The operator
must adjust the parking brake so that the lift truck does
not move if it is parked on an incline. The parking brake,
when in good condition and correctly adjusted, will hold
a lift truck with a capacity load on a 15% grade [a slope
that increases 1.5 metres in 10 metres (1.5 ft increase in
10 ft)].
To adjust the parking brake, turn the adjustment knob on
the lever that applies the parking brake. See
FIGURE 16. Do not tighten the adjustment so that the
brake is applied when the lever is released. The lever for
the parking brake has a release button. Use your thumb
or finger on the release button to release the parking
brake.
Lift trucks with a MONOTROL pedal: When the
parking brake is applied, a switch in the starting circuit
is closed so that the engine can be started. The switch
also puts the transmission in NEUTRAL.
4 1
2
1. PARKING BRAKE
LEVER OFF POSITION
2. PARKING BRAKE
LEVER ON POSITION
3. ADJUSTMENT KNOB
3 4. RELEASE BUTTON
12607
FIGURE 16. PARKING BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
17
Fuel Filter, Diesel Engine
There is a sending unit in the bottom of the fuel filter that
detects water in the fuel. If the indicator light on the in-
strument cluster is ON when the engine is running, there
is water in the fuel filter. See the procedures for “How To
Drain The Water From The Fuel Filter”.
Install a new fuel filter every 1000 hours or six months
of operation. If there is a problem with water in the die-
sel fuel in your area, the fuel filter must be changed more
frequently than 1000 hours.
Remove Air From The Diesel Fuel System
NOTE: The fuel injection pump will normally remove
small amounts of air from the fuel system when the en-
gine is started. If the fuel pump, fuel injection pump, or
the fuel filter is empty, it is necessary to disconnect a fit-
ting and fill the components of the fuel system before the
engine will start.
How To Drain The Water From The Fuel Filter
1. See FIGURE 17. Turn the wing nut to open the drain
valve on the bottom of the fuel filter. Drain some fuel
(and any water) into a container until clean fuel flows
from the filter.
2. Turn the wing nut to close the drain valve.
1 c. The inner weldments and the carriage must lower
1. HAND PUMP
2. DRAIN VALVE
12609
2 by each of the controls.) Make sure all of the hy-
FIGURE 17. DIESEL FUEL FILTER
18
Control Levers and Pedals
Check that the control levers for the transmission, mast
and attachment operate as described in the OPERAT-
ING MANUAL. Check that the pedals operate correct-
ly as described in the OPERATING MANUAL.
Lift System Operation
WARNING
When working on or near the mast, see SAFETY
PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE
MAST in GENERAL PROCEDURES at the end of
this section.
Lower the lift mechanism completely. Never allow
any person under a raised carriage. Do not put any
part of your body in or through the lift mechanism
unless all parts of the mast are completely lowered
and the engine is STOPPED.
Do not try to find hydraulic leaks by putting hands
on pressurized hydraulic components. Hydraulic oil
can be injected into the body by the pressure.
Do the following checks and inspections:
a. Check for leaks in the hydraulic system. Check the
condition of the hydraulic hoses and tubes.
b. Slowly raise and lower the mast several times
without a load. Raise the mast to its full height at
least once. The mast components must raise and
lower smoothly in the correct sequence.
NOTE: Some parts of the mast move at different speeds
during raising and lowering.
completely.
d. Raise the mast one metre (three feet) with a capac-
ity load. The inner weldment(s) and the carriage
must raise smoothly. Lower the mast. All moving
components must lower smoothly.
e. Lower the load to approximately 0.3 metre (one
foot). Tilt the mast forward and backward. The
mast must tilt smoothly and both tilt cylinders
must stop evenly.
f. Check that the controls for the attachment operate
the functions of the attachment. (See the symbols
draulic lines are connected correctly and do not
leak.
Cooling System (See FIGURE 18.)
The red light is ON when the key switch is in the
START position and must go OFF when the engine is
running. If the light is ON when the engine is running,
the coolant level in the radiator is low. Make a visual
check of the coolant level.
1 5
2 moved, the pressure is released from the system. If
3
4 Check the radiator fins. Clean the radiator with com-
Some units have a gauge for coolant temperature. If the
needle is in the red zone when the engine is running, the
coolant and engine are too hot. Stop the engine and
check the coolant level in the coolant recovery reservoir.
WARNING
DO NOT remove the radiator cap from the radiator
when the engine is hot. When the radiator cap is re-
the system is hot, the steam and boiling coolant can
cause burns.
Make sure the coolant level is between the “FULL” and
the “ADD” mark on the auxiliary coolant reservoir. The
coolant will expand as it is heated and the level in the
auxiliary coolant reservoir will increase. If coolant is
added, use the correct mixture of water and ethylene
glycol shown in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE.
pressed air or water as needed.

12777

1. FILL CAP 3. FULL MARK

2. AUXILIARY COOLANT 4. ADD MARK
RESERVOIR 5. RADIATOR CAP

FIGURE 18. AUXILIARY COOLANT

RESERVOIR

19
 EVERY 250 HOURS OR TWO MONTHS
Do these procedures in addition to the 8 hour checks.
DRIVE BELT TIMING BELT

Mazda M4–2.0G (See FIGURE 19.)
FAN AND ALTERNATOR DRIVE BELT
Check the drive belt for the fan and alternator for wear
and damage.
Check the tension by pushing on the drive belt to check
the deflection. When the pressure is 90 N (20 lbf), the
correct deflection is approximately 13 mm (1/2 in).
Loosen the alternator support bracket to adjust the ten-
sion of the belt.
Check the timing belt for wear and damage. (The cover
for the timing belt must be removed for checks and ad-
justments. (See the SERVICE MANUAL for the
MAZDA ENGINE, 600 SRM 496 for more informa-
tion.) Small cracks that run across the belt are accept-
able. A belt with cracks that run the length of the belt or a
belt with missing pieces is not acceptable.
Check the tension by pushing on the drive belt to check
the deflection. When the pressure is 90 N (20 lbf), the
correct deflection is approximately 13 mm (1/2 in). To
change the adjustment of the timing belt, do the follow-
ing:
1. Loosen the lock bolt for the tensioner and apply
spring tension to the belt.
2. When the belt tension is correct, tighten the lock
bolt to 20 to 35 Nm (14 to 25 lbf ft).

Isuzu C240, 4JB1 and 4JG2 (See FIGURE 20.)

2 1
1. CHECK Check the drive belt for wear and damage.
TENSION HERE
2. LOCK BOLT FOR Check the tension by pushing on the drive belt with your
TENSIONER thumb and check the deflection. When the pressure is 90
3. ALTERNATOR N (20 lbf), the correct deflection is approximately 13
SUPPORT
mm (1/2 in). Loosen the alternator support bracket to ad-
BRACKET
just the tension of the belt.

1
1 2 1
3

ISUZU C240 ISUZU 4JB1 OR 4JG2

1. CHECK TENSION HERE
2. ALTERNATOR SUPPORT BRACKET

FIGURE 19. CHECK AND ADJUST THE DRIVE FIGURE 20. CHECK AND ADJUST THE DRIVE
BELTS, MAZDA ENGINE BELT, DIESEL ENGINES

20
GM 2.2L (See FIGURE 21.) correctly when the tensioner in in a position between the
“new installed” position and the “belt worn out” posi-
Check the drive belt for wear and damage. Small cracks
tion. Install a new drive belt when the tensioner is at the
that run across the belt are acceptable. A belt with cracks
“belt worn out” position.
that run the length of the belt or a belt with missing
pieces is not acceptable. GM 3.0L (See FIGURE 21.)
Check the drive belts for the fan, alternator and water
pump for wear and damage.
Check the tension on the fan belt by pushing on the drive
belt to check the deflection. When the pressure is 90 N
(20 lbf), the correct deflection is approximately 14 to 16
mm (0.55 to 0.63 in). Loosen the support bracket for the
idler pulley to adjust the tension of the belt.
Check the tension on the alternator belt by pushing on
the drive belt to check the deflection. When the pressure
is 90 N (20 lbf), the correct deflection is approximately
10 to 13 mm (0.4 to 0.5 in). Loosen the support bracket
for the alternator to adjust the tension of the belt.
ENGINE OIL AND FILTER
(See FIGURE 11.)
1
NOTE: Change the oil filter for the engine at the first
100 hours of operation on new lift trucks.
1. BELT
TENSIONER CAUTION
Never run the engine without oil.
GM 2.2L
CAUTION
Oils and lubricants must be discarded according to
local environmental regulations.
Change the oil filter at the same time engine oil is
changed. Use the correct oil according to the MAIN-
TENANCE SCHEDULE. Apply clean oil to the gasket
of the new filter. Install the new filter. Turn the filter
until the gasket touches, then tighten 1/2 to 3/4 turn with
your hand. Start the engine. Check the area around the
oil filter for leaks.
2
2
BRAKE FLUID (See FIGURE 12.)
Check the fluid level in the reservoir for the master cyl-
2. CHECK
TENSION inder. The brake fluid reservoir is under the floor plate,
HERE at the master cylinder. Add brake fluid as necessary. Use
GM 3.0L 12899
the brake fluid shown in the MAINTENANCE
FIGURE 21. CHECK THE DRIVE BELTS, SCHEDULE.
GM ENGINES
WARNING
When the belt is installed, check the tension by using the Loss of fluid from the reservoir indicates a leak. Re-
marks on the side of the tensioner. The belt is installed pair the brake system before the lift truck is used.

21
Replace the brake fluid in the brake system if there is chains as shown in FIGURE 22. If a chain scale is not
oil, water or dirt in the system. available, measure 20 links of chain. Measure from the
centre of a pin to the centre of another pin 20 pitches
HYDRAULIC TANK BREATHER away. Compare the length with the chart in FIGURE 22.
Replace the chain if the length of 20 links of the worn
The breather for the hydraulic tank is next to the dipstick section is more than the WEAR LIMIT.
for the hydraulic oil. Clean the breather in solvent. In-
stall a new breather if air will not flow through it easily.
pitch
Total length of WEAR LIMIT
FORKS (See FIGURE 7.) 20 links(pitch) The maximum
of new chain length of 20 links

WARNING mm (inch) mm (inch) mm (inch)

Never repair damaged forks. Do not heat, weld, or 12.7 (0.50) 254.0 (10.0) 261.6 (10.3)
bend the forks. Forks are made of special steel using 15.9 (0.63) 317.5 (12.5) 327.0 (12.9)
special methods. Replace damaged forks. 19.1 (0.75) 381.0 (15.0) 392.4 (15.6)
25.4 (1.00) 508.0 (20.0) 523.3 (20.6)
1. Check the heel and attachment points of the forks with
a penetrant or magnetic particle inspection.

2. Measure the thickness of the forks at a vertical section

where there is no wear. This thickness is dimension X.
Now measure the thickness at the heel of the fork (item
4, FIGURE 7. If the thickness of the heel is not greater 1
than 90% of dimension X, replace the fork.

LIFT CHAINS

Lubrication
Lubricate the lift chains with SAE 30 engine oil. The
best procedure is to remove the chains from the lift truck
and soak them in engine oil. Be sure to clean any grease
or dirt from the chains before lubricating. DO NOT USE
STEAM TO CLEAN THE LIFT CHAINS.

WARNING
When working on or near the mast, see SAFETY 1. CHAIN WEAR SCALE
PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE 12174
NOTE: The instructions for measuring chain
MAST in GENERAL PROCEDURES in this sec- wear are shown on the Chain Wear Scale.
tion.
Do not repair a worn or damaged lift chain. If a lift FIGURE 22. CHECK THE LIFT CHAINS
chain is worn or damaged, both lift chains must be
replaced. MAST (See FIGURE 23.)

Check For Wear WARNING

If a section of chain is 3% longer than a similar section of When working on or near the mast, see SAFETY
new chain, the chain is worn and must be replaced. PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE
Measure the chain for wear where it moves over the MAST in GENERAL PROCEDURES in this sec-
sheaves. If a chain scale is available, check the lift tion.

22
1. Lubricate the sliding surfaces and the load roller sur- cate the bushings for the mast control levers with engine
faces along the full length of the channels as shown in oil.
FIGURE 23. Apply lubricant only to the surfaces indi-
FUEL SYSTEM
cated.
NOTE: The following adjustments are for engine speed
NOTE: The load rollers and sheaves have sealed bear-
only. For adjustments to the gasoline fuel system on the
ings and do not need additional lubrication.
GM 2.2L and 3.0L engines, see the sections in the SER-
2. Lubricate the pivot pins for the mast at the grease fit- VICE MANUAL. For further adjustments to the other
tings on the mast. Use multipurpose grease. fuel system, such as the governor, see the sections in the
SERVICE MANUAL for the fuel systems.
3. If a side–shift carriage is installed, lubricate the slid-
Engine Speed, Diesel
ing surfaces at the grease fittings with multipurpose
grease. The engine must be at the normal operating tempera-
ture. Use a tachometer that can check the speed of a die-
sel engine. See FIGURE 24. Loosen the locknut and
11632 turn the adjustment screw (3) until the idle speed is with-
3 1 2
in the specifications shown in the MAINTENANCE
2
SCHEDULE. Tighten the locknut.
To make sure the throttle opens completely, do the fol-
lowing:
a. Loosen the two locknuts on the cable housing at
the bracket near the fuel injection pump. Make
sure the cable housing can move in the bracket.
b. Hold the throttle or Monotrol pedal in the fully
2
open position. Move the locknuts to hold the cable
UPPER LOAD LOWER LOAD housing in this position. Tighten the locknuts.
ROLLERS ROLLERS
1. LUBRICATE STRIP BEARINGS SURFACES 2 1
2. LUBRICATE LOAD ROLLER SURFACES ISUZU 4JB1
3. LOAD ROLLER SHOWN

FIGURE 23. LUBRICATE THE MAST

STEERING AXLE
Lubricate the H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) tie rod 12619
3
ends and the king pins on the steering axle. There are
1. CONTROL LEVER, INJECTION PUMP
two grease fittings on each tie rod. The grease fitting for
2. STOP SCREW, MAXIMUM SPEED
each king pin is on the front side of the spindle. Lubri- 3. STOP SCREW, IDLE SPEED
cate the S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) spindle bearings.
FIGURE 24. FUEL INJECTION PUMP,
There is a grease fitting for each spindle. Use multi–pur-
DIESEL ENGINES
pose grease at the grease fittings.
CAUTION
CONTROL LEVERS AND PEDALS The adjustment of the throttle cable must be correct
or it can break during operation. The accelerator
Lubricate the linkages, pedal shafts and control cables pedal or the MONOTROL pedal must reach the
(throttle, hood, parking brake) and the seat rails. Use a pedal stop (floor plate) by the time the throttle lever
silicone spray lubricant, Hyster Part No. 328388. Lubri- on the fuel injection pump reaches its stop.

23
Engine Speed, LPG Carburetor, Mazda And b. Put the transmission in NEUTRAL and discon-
GM 2.2L (See FIGURE 25.) nect the vacuum hose from the idle control actua-
tor (4). Adjust the engine idle speed to 1400 ± 30
rpm with the idle control screw (3).
c. Install the vacuum hose and clamp to the idle con-
trol actuator (4).
d. Check the idle speed. If the idle speed is higher
5
than specifications, make the adjustment at the
idle control screw (3).
2
4
1 5. Check that the engine runs at its governed speed when
the accelerator pedal or the MONOTROL pedal reaches
the floor plate. If necessary, adjust the throttle cable at
3 the bracket on the engine. Loosen the lock nuts and
MAZDA ENGINE move the cable as necessary. Check that the maximum
engine speed is within the specifications shown in the
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE.

2 CAUTION
5 The adjustment of the throttle cable must be correct
or it can break during operation. The accelerator
4 1 pedal or the MONOTROL pedal must reach the
pedal stop (floor plate) by the time the throttle plate
3 12792 in the carburetor is fully open.

Engine Speed, LPG Carburetor, GM 3.0L

(See FIGURE 26.)
GM 2.2L
1. IDLE SPEED SCREW ENGINE 1. The engine must be at the normal operating tempera-
2. IDLE MIXTURE SCREW ture. Connect a tachometer to the engine.
3. IDLE CONTROL SCREW
4. IDLE CONTROL ACTUATOR 2. Turn the idle speed screw (1) until the idle speed is
5. VACUUM HOSE CONNECTION within the specifications shown in the MAINTEN-
FIGURE 25. LPG CARBURETOR ANCE SCHEDULE.
3. Adjusting the idle mixture screw (2) will change en-
1. The engine must be at the normal operating tempera- gine speed. Adjust the idle mixture screw to obtain
ture. Connect a tachometer to the engine. maximum engine rpm. Adjust the idle speed again as de-
scribed in step 2.
2. Turn the idle speed screw (1) until the idle speed is
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until the maximum idle speed
within the specifications shown in the MAINTEN-
from adjusting the idle mixture screw is the same as the
ANCE SCHEDULE.
specified idle speed.
3. Turn the idle mixture screw (2) 3 ± 1 turns from the 5. Turn the idle mixture screw out until engine speed be-
full IN position. Check and adjust the idle speed as gins to decrease, then turn the idle mixture screw in 1/4
necessary. turn.
4. Check the idle control adjustment as follows: 6. Check the idle control adjustment as follows:
a. Adjust the idle speed and mixture as described a. Adjust the idle speed and mixture as described
above. above.

24
 b. Adjust the idle control screw (5) until there is 0.10 2. Start the engine. See FIGURE 27. Turn the idle ad-
to 0.20 mm (0.004 to 0.008 in) clearance between justment screw (1) until the idle speed is within the spec-
the screw and the rod of the actuator. ifications shown in the MAINTENANCE SCHED-
ULE.
c. Disconnect the vacuum hose (3) from the actuator.
Check the engine speed. If the engine speed is less
than 1400 rpm, no adjustment is necessary. If the
engine speed is higher than 1400 rpm, adjust the
screw (5) until the engine speed is 1300 to 1400
rpm.
1

2
1

3
5

1. IDLE SPEED SCREW

2. IDLE MIXTURE SCREW
3. IDLE CONTROL SCREW
4. IDLE CONTROL ACTUATOR 12792
5. VACUUM HOSE CONNECTION
3
FIGURE 27. GASOLINE CARBURETOR,
MAZDA ENGINE

4 3. Turn the idle mixture screw (2) until the tachometer

indicates the highest idle speed. Repeat step 2 and step 3
until the idle speed is within the specifications shown in
the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE.

5 4. Check the idle control adjustment as follows:

1. IDLE SPEED SCREW a. Adjust the idle speed and mixture as described
2. IDLE MIXTURE SCREW
above.
3. VACUUM HOSE CONNECTION
4. IDLE CONTROL ACTUATOR b. Put the transmission in NEUTRAL and discon-
5. IDLE CONTROL SCREW 12898
nect the vacuum hose from the idle control actua-
FIGURE 26. LPG CARBURETOR, GM 3.0L tor (4). Adjust the engine idle speed to 1400 ± 30
ENGINE rpm with the idle control screw (3).
c. Install the vacuum hose and clamp to the idle con-
Engine Speed, Mazda Gasoline Carburetor trol actuator (4).
1. The engine must be at the normal operating tempera- d. Check the idle speed. If the idle speed is higher
ture. Stop the engine. Check that the choke plate is fully than specifications, make the adjustment at the
open. Connect a tachometer to the engine. idle control screw (3).

25
5. Check that the engine runs at its governed speed when
the accelerator pedal or the MONOTROL pedal reaches
the floor plate. If necessary, adjust the throttle cable at
the bracket on the engine. Loosen the lock nuts and
move the cable as necessary. Check that the maximum
engine speed is within the specifications shown in the
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE.
CAUTION
The adjustment of the throttle cable must be correct
or it can break during operation. The accelerator
pedal or the MONOTROL pedal must reach the
pedal stop (floor plate) by the time the throttle plate
in the carburettor is fully open.

EVERY 1000 HOURS OR SIX MONTHS

Do these procedures in addition to the 250 hour checks.
DIESEL FUEL SYSTEM Fuel Filter Replacement
1. See FIGURE 28. Disconnect the two sender wires
A sender unit in the bottom of the fuel filter illuminates from the bottom of the fuel filter. Remove the fuel filter
an indicator light on the instrument cluster when there is from its mount. Remove the parts that include the sender
water in the water separator. unit from the bottom of the fuel filter.
2. Install the parts that include the sender unit in the new
fuel filter. Use a new O–ring between the fuel filter and
the sender unit. Lubricate the O–ring with diesel fuel
1. HAND PUMP
1 2. FILTER
when it is installed. When the engine can be operated,
3. WATER check for leaks.
SEDIMENT CAP
4. SENDER, Remove Air from the Fuel System
FLOAT ASSEMBLY
5. O–RING
NOTE: The fuel injection pump will normally remove
6. WIRE small amounts of air from the fuel system when the en-
CONNECTION, gine is started. If the fuel pump, fuel injection pump, or
SENDER (2) the fuel filter is empty, it is necessary to disconnect a fit-
7. DRAIN VALVE
AND HOSE
ting and fill the components of the fuel system before the
engine will start.
2 The fuel injection pump has a rotary vane fuel pump in-
side of the fuel injection pump. The fuel injection pump
5
must be filled with fuel before the engine will start. A
4 hand pump is installed in the top of the fuel filter. See
3 FIGURE 28. This hand pump can be used to fill the fuel
system before trying to start the engine. Do the follow-
7 ing:
6
a. Make sure there is fuel in the fuel tank.
12609
b. Loosen a fitting on the outlet of the fuel system
component that must be filled with fuel. Push the
FIGURE 28. FUEL FILTER AND
WATER SEPARATOR plunger of the hand pump several times until the
air is removed and the component is filled with
fuel. Tighten the fitting.
Install a new fuel filter every 1000 hours or six months
DIFFERENTIAL
of operation. If there is a problem with water in the die-
sel fuel in your area, the fuel filter must be changed more The differential and drive axle use the same oil supply.
frequently than 1000 hours. The oil level must be even with the bottom of the fill

26
hole. The fill hole for checking the oil level is on the Mazda M4–2.0G (See FIGURE 29.)
front of the differential housing. Add the oil that is
The Mazda M4–2.0G engine has an electronic ignition
shown in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. Install
system. Change the spark plugs and check the timing
the fill plug and check for leaks.
every 1000 hours. The correct spark plug gap is 0.8 mm
(0.032 in).
VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT
The correct timing is as follows:
The GM 2.2L and 3.0L engines have hydraulic valve Gasoline = 0° BTDC at 725 ± 25 rpm (WHITE mark)
lifters and do not require valve clearance adjustments
LPG = 9° BTDC at 725 ± 25 rpm (RED mark)
during normal service. Check the valve clearance on the
Mazda and Isuzu engines and make adjustments as NOTE: The YELLOW timing mark is not used.
needed.
Rotate the distributor as necessary to get the correct tim-
NOTE: Additional information on the engines is in the ing.
following sections of the SERVICE MANUAL:
• THE MAZDA M4–2.0G ENGINE,
600 SRM 496
• THE GM 2.2L ENGINE, 600 SRM 497
• THE GM ENGINE, 600 SRM 3
• ISUZU C240 DIESEL ENGINE, 600 SRM 70
• ISUZU 4JB1 DIESEL ENGINE, 600 SRM 467 1

• ISUZU 4JG2 DIESEL ENGINE, 600 SRM 553

IGNITION SYSTEM 2 3 4
1. INDICATOR 5
2. 0° BTDC, WHITE
NOTE: The GM 2.2L engine and the GM 3.0L gasoline
3. 9° BTDC, RED
engine have an electronic control module that controls 4. YELLOW TIMING
the ignition timing. There are no adjustments. MARK(NOT USED)
5. DISTRIBUTOR
GM 3.0L LPG

Check the timing as follows:

a. Disconnect the initial timing connector. This con-
nector is in the wiring harness (4–wire) between
the distributor and the ECM.
b. Run the engine at 1200 rpm. Use a timing light to
check the timing. The correct setting is 8° BTDC. FIGURE 29. IGNITION TIMING
If the timing is not correct, loosen the distributor MAZDA ENGINE
and rotate it until it is correct. Tighten the clamp
for the distributor. PCV VALVE (See FIGURE 11.)
c. Connect the initial timing connector. Check the The engine has a PCV valve. Check the operation of the
timing at idle speed. The timing is correct when it PCV valve. The check valve inside the PCV valve must
is between 10° to 25° BTDC. The timing advances permit air flow in only one direction: from the valve
as engine speed increases. cover.

27
 EVERY 2000 HOURS OR YEARLY
Do these procedures in addition to the 1000 hour checks.
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
WARNING
At operating temperature the oil for the trans-
NOTE: Change the oil filter for the hydraulic system at mission is HOT. Do not permit the oil to touch the
the first 100 hours of operation on new lift trucks. skin and cause a burn.

WARNING CAUTION
At operating temperature the hydraulic oil is HOT. Do not permit dirt to enter the transmission when
Do not permit the oil to touch the skin and cause a the oil level is checked or the filter is changed. Dirt
burn. can cause damage to the components.

CAUTION
1
Do not permit dirt to enter the hydraulic system
when the oil level is checked or the filter is changed.
Dirt can cause damage to components of the hy-
draulic system.

Replace the Hydraulic Oil And Filter 2

(See FIGURE 30.)

1. Put the lift truck on a level surface and lower the car- 3
riage. Remove the capscrews that hold the filter to the
4
frame.

2. Disconnect the hose at the front of the filter. Tilt the

filter up to drain the oil into the tank. Disconnect the
other hose from the filter and remove the filter. 12789

1. HYDRAULIC FILTER
3. Install a new filter. Install the capscrews and connect 2. TRANSMISSION FILTER
the hydraulic hoses. 3. TRANSMISSION DIPSTICK
4. BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR
4. To drain the oil, disconnect the supply hose to the hy-
FIGURE 30. MAINTENANCE POINTS
draulic pump. Drain the oil into a container. Fill the hy-
draulic tank with oil specified in the MAINTENANCE Replace the Transmission Oil And Filter
SCHEDULE. When the the oil level is correct operate (See FIGURE 30.)
the system and check for leaks.
1. Change the oil and filter for the transmission. The
TRANSMISSION drain plug for the transmission is on the cover of the
transmission, toward the rear of the lift truck. Remove
NOTE: Change the oil filter for the transmission at the the drain plug, spring, and screen. Drain the oil into a
first 100 hours of operation on new lift trucks. Before re- container.
moving the oil filter make a hole the the top of the filter
2. Clean the screen. When the oil has drained, install the
and allow five minutes for the oil to drain down into the
screen, spring, and drain plug.
transmission. This will reduce the oil that will run out of
the filter and onto the transmission when the filter is re- 3. Install a new oil filter when the oil in the transmission
moved. is changed. Remove and discard the old oil filter. Apply

28
clean oil to the gasket of the new filter. Install the new
filter and tighten it with your hand
4. Add the oil to the transmission at the dipstick tube.
The correct oil is shown in the MAINTENANCE
SCHEDULE. Check for leaks during operation.
COOLING SYSTEM
1. Change the coolant in the cooling system. Put the lift
truck on a level surface. Stop the engine.
WARNING
DO NOT remove the radiator cap from the radiator
when the engine is hot. When the radiator cap is re-
moved, the pressure is released from the system. If
the system is hot, the steam and boiling coolant can
cause burns. DO NOT remove the cover for the radi-
ator when the engine is running.
2. Open the drain valve and remove the radiator cap.
Drain the coolant into a container. Flush the cooling sys-
tem. Check the hoses and fittings for damage. Replace
with new hoses and fitting as needed.
CAUTION
For the Mazda M4–2.0G engine, use only boron–free
ethylene glycol. Other types of ethylene glycol can
cause damage to the engine.
3. Close the drain valve. Fill the cooling system with the
correct coolant (50% water and 50% ethylene glycol).
4. Install the radiator cap. Start the engine. Check for
leaks. Add coolant to the auxiliary coolant reservoir as
needed.
SERVICE BRAKES
Check the brake lining and parts of the brake assembly
for wear or damage. See the BRAKE SYSTEM section
for the removal and installation procedures of the drive
wheels and brake drums. If the brake linings or brake
shoes are worn or damaged, they must be replaced.
Brake shoes must be replaced in complete sets. Inspect
the brake drums for cracks or damage. Replace any
damaged parts.
NOTE: Additional information is in THE BRAKE
SYSTEM, 1800 SRM 506.
WARNING
Brake linings can contain dangerous fibres. Breath-
ing the dust from these brake linings is a cancer or
lung disease hazard. Do not create dust! Do not clean
brake parts with compressed air or by brushing.
Follow the cleaning procedure in this section. When
the brake drums are removed, do not create dust.
Do not sand, grind, chisel, hammer or change linings
in any way that will create dust. Any changes to
brake linings must be done in a restricted area with
special ventilation. Protective clothing and a respir-
ator must be used.
Cleaning Procedures:
a. Do not release brake lining dust from the brake
linings into the air when the brake drum is re-
moved.
b. Use a solvent approved for cleaning of brake parts
to wet the lining dust. Follow the instructions and
cautions of the manufacturer for the use of the sol-
vent. If a solvent spray is used, do not create brake
lining dust with the spray.
c. When the brake lining dust is wet, clean the parts.
Put any cloth or towels in a plastic bag or an air-
tight container while they are still wet. Put a
“DANGEROUS FIBRES” warning label on the
plastic bag or airtight container.
d. Any cleaning cloths that will be washed must be
cleaned so that fibres are not released into the air.
CAUTION
Do not use an oil solvent to clean the wheel cylinder.
Use a solvent approved for cleaning of brake parts.
Do not permit oil or grease in the brake fluid or on
the brake linings.
DIFFERENTIAL
NOTE: Additional information can be found in THE
DRIVE AXLE, 1400 SRM 499
Change the oil in the differential and drive axle. The dif-
ferential and drive axle use the same oil supply. The oil
level must be even with the bottom of the fill hole. The
fill hole for checking the oil level is on the front of the
differential housing. Add the oil that is shown in the
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. Install the fill plug and
check for leaks.
29
WHEEL BEARINGS Install a new LPG filter as follows:

Steer Wheels
Lubricate the wheel bearings in the hubs for the steer
wheels with multipurpose grease. See the section for
THE STEERING AXLE for the procedures to remove
and install the steer wheels and hubs.
a. Close the fuel valve on the tank. Run the engine
until all of the fuel is gone and the engine stops.
Slowly loosen the hose fitting to the filter. Let any
fuel drain from the fitting before disassembling
the filter unit.

Drive Wheels b. Remove the screws and the filter cover. Install the
filter element.
Lubricate the inner wheel bearings in the hubs for the
drive wheels with multipurpose grease. See the sections c. Install the cover and the gasket. Tighten the
for THE DRIVE AXLE or THE BRAKE SYSTEM screws for the cover. Tighten the hose fitting.
for the procedures to remove and install the drive wheels
and hubs.

GASOLINE FUEL FILTER (See

FIGURE 11.)

Install a new fuel filter. After installation, operate the 1

engine and check for leaks.

PCV VALVE (See FIGURE 11.)

Install a new PCV valve 1. FILTER

ELEMENT
LPG FILTER (See FIGURE 31.)
6035

WARNING
FIGURE 31. LPG FUEL FILTER
LPG is flammable. Make sure there are no sparks or
open flames in the area when the fuel line is drained.

GENERAL PROCEDURES

CHECK THE HOOD LATCH 2. Install the latch striker. Check that the latch striker is
(See FIGURE 32.) in the centre of the jaws of the hood latch when the hood
closes.

3. Carefully close the hood to the fully closed position.

WARNING
The hood, hood latch and latch striker must be cor-
rectly adjusted for the correct operation of the oper-
ator restraint system.
1. Install the hood latch in the lowest slot position on the
frame of the hood. Tighten the capscrews so that the
hood latch can still move when the hood is closed.
The hood latch has two positions. The hood is fully
closed after two clicks of the latch.
4. Push the hood down until the hood just touches the
rubber bumpers. Make sure the latch striker is still in the
centre of the hood latch. Open the hood and tighten the
capscrews for the latch.
5. Check the operation of the hood latch. Have an oper-
ator sit in the seat. Make sure the hood is fully closed

30
(two clicks). Also check that the hood touches the 1. Adjust the lift chains that are connected to the carriage
rubber bumpers. If necessary, repeat step 4. as follows:
a. Put the mast in a vertical position. Adjust the lift
chains at the chain anchors so that the lower edge
2
1 of the bottom carriage bar is 82.5 mm (3.25 in)
above the floor surface.

2. Adjust the main lift chains for the three–stage mast as

follows:
3 a. Adjust the chain anchors at the main lift cylinders
so that the top of the inner weldment is even with
the top of the outer weldment within +1.5mm
(+0.06 in).
12793
b. Adjust the chain for the carriage as described in
step 1.
1. HOOD FRAME
2. HOOD LATCH
3. LATCH STRIKER
FIGURE 32. HOOD LATCH 1

LIFT CHAIN ADJUSTMENTS

WARNING 3
When working on or near the mast, see SAFETY
PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE 4
MAST in GENERAL PROCEDURES in this sec-
tion.
Never allow anyone under a raised carriage. Do not
put any part of your body in or through the lift mech- 4691
anism unless all parts of the mast are completely low- 2
ered and the engine is STOPPED. 1. TILT MAST FULLY BACKWARD
Do not try to find hydraulic leaks by putting your 2. CARRIAGE ROLLER
3. FORK
hand on hydraulic components under pressure. Hy-
4. CARRIAGE ROLLER MUST NOT
draulic oil can be injected into the body by the pres- EXTEND MORE THAN 1/3 OF ROLLER
sure. DIAMETER BELOW INNER MAST
CHANNEL
During test procedures for the hydraulic system,
fasten the load to the carriage with chains to prevent FIGURE 33. LIFT CHAIN ADJUSTMENTS
it from falling. Keep all personnel away from the lift
truck during the tests. 3. When the chain adjustments are complete, make sure
that the threads on the nuts of the chain anchors are com-
When the lift chains are correctly adjusted: pletely engaged. Make sure that all of the adjustment is
• The tension will be the same on each chain of the not removed from the chain anchors. The chain anchors
chain set. Check tension by pushing on both must be able to move in their sockets. See FIGURE 33.
chains at the same time. Lower the mast completely and put a capacity load on
the forks. Tilt the mast fully backward and check the
• The chain length will be correct. amount that the bottom carriage load roller extends
• The chains must travel freely through the com- below the inner channel. When adjustments are correct,
plete cycle. no more than one–third of the roller will be visible.

31
 SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST (1 of 2)
The following procedures must be used when inspecting or working near the mast. Additional precautions
and procedures can be required when repairing or removing the mast. See the correct Service Manual sec-
tion for the specific mast being repaired.
WARNING
Mast parts are heavy and can move. Distances between parts are small. Serious injury or death can
result if part of the body is hit by parts of the mast or the carriage.
• Never put any part of the body into or under the mast or carriage unless all parts are completely
lowered or a safety chain is installed. Also make sure that the power is off and the key is removed.
Put a “DO NOT OPERATE” tag in the operator’s compartment.
• Be careful of the forks. When the mast is raised, the forks can be at a height to cause an injury.
• Do NOT climb on the mast or lift truck at any time. Use a ladder or personnel lift to work on the
mast.
• Do NOT use blocks to support the mast weldments nor to restrain their movement.
• Mast repairs require disassembly and removal of parts and can require removal of the mast or
carriage. Follow the repair procedures in the correct SERVICE MANUAL section for the mast.
WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST ALWAYS:
5
• Lower the mast and carriage completely. Push the 8
lift/lower control lever forward and make sure there is
no movement in the mast. Make sure that all parts of 7
the mast that move are fully lowered.
OR
• If parts of the mast must be in a raised position, in-
stall a safety chain to restrain the moving parts of the
mast. Connect moving parts to a part that does not
move. Follow these procedures: 1
a. Put the mast in a vertical position. 2
b. Raise the mast to align the bottom crossmember of the
weldment that moves in the outer weldment with a TWO–STAGE
crossmember on the outer weldment (1). On the two– MAST
stage and free–lift mast, the moving part is the inner
weldment (2). On the three–stage mast it is the intermedi-
ate weldment (3). On the four–stage mast it is the first
intermediate weldment (4).
c. Use a 3/8 inch minimum safety chain with a hook (5) to
fasten the crossmembers together so that the movable 6
member can not lower. Put the hook on the back side of
the mast. Make sure the hook is completely engaged with 8
a link in the chain. Make sure the safety chain does not
touch lift chains or chain sheaves, tubes, hoses, fittings or
other parts on the mast. 1
d. Lower the mast until there is tension in the safety chain 5
7
and the free–lift cylinder (6) (free–lift and three–stage
masts only) is completely retracted. If the engine is run-
ning, stop the engine. Apply the parking brake. Install a
“DO NOT REMOVE” tag on the safety chain(s).
e. Install another safety chain (3/8 inch minimum) be-
tween the top or bottom crossmember of the carriage (7)
and a crossmember on the outer weldment (8). 2
• Apply the parking brake. After lowering or restraining
the mast, shut off the power and remove the key. Put FREE–LIFT
a “DO NOT OPERATE” tag in the operator’s com- MAST
partment.

32
 SAFETY PROCEDURES WHEN WORKING NEAR THE MAST (2 of 2)

5 5
6 6

1
1

3 4

THREE–STAGE FOUR–STAGE
MAST MAST

CHECK FOR LEAKS IN THE LIFT AND
TILT SYSTEM
Check the Lift Cylinders for Leaks
1. Operate the hydraulic system. Put a capacity load on
the forks and raise and lower the load several times.
Lower the load and tilt the mast forward and backward
several times. Check for leaks.
2. Raise the carriage and load one metre (3 ft). If the car-
riage slowly lowers when the control valve is in the Neu-
tral position, there are leaks inside the hydraulic system.
The maximum speed that the carriage is allowed to
lower is 50 mm (2 in) per 10 minutes when the hydraulic
oil is 30°C (90°F). If the oil temperature is 70°C
(160°F), the maximum speed that the carriage can lower
is 150 mm (6 in) per 10 minutes.
3. Check the lift cylinder for internal leaks. Remove the
load from the forks. Install a gate valve in the supply line
between the main control valve and the mast. Put a ca-
pacity load on the forks again. Raise the carriage one
meter (3 ft). Close the gate valve. If the carriage or mast
weldments lower slowly, the seals in the lift cylinders
have leaks.
4. If the carriage does not move, open the gate valve and
check the movement again. If the carriage lowers when
the gate valve is open, check for leaks in the hydraulic
lines and fittings. If no leaks are found, the main control
valve can be worn or damaged. Remove the load from
the forks.
Check the Tilt Cylinders for Leaks
1. Put a capacity load on the forks. Slowly tilt the mast
forward. If the mast continues to slowly tilt forward
when the control valve is in the Neutral position, there
are leaks inside the hydraulic system. The maximum
speed that the mast is allowed to tilt forward when there
are internal leaks in the lift system is 15 mm (0.6 in) per
10 minutes (measured at rod in the tilt cylinder). The
maximum speed is measured when the hydraulic oil is
30°C (90°F). If the oil temperature is 60°C (140°F), the
maximum speed 68 mm (2.7 in) per 10 minutes.
2. If the leak rate is greater than the specifications, re-
move the load from the mast. Install a valve between the
port at the front of the tilt cylinder and the hydraulic line.
Put the load on the forks again. Close the valve. If the
mast tilts slowly forward, the cylinder seals are leaking.
3. If the mast does not move, open the gate valve and
check the movement again. If the mast moves forward

33
when the gate valve is open, check for leaks in the hy-
draulic lines and fittings. If no leaks are found, the main
control valve can be worn or damaged. Remove the load
from the forks when the checks are complete.
DIESEL ENGINE FUEL INJECTORS
The engine will run roughly if a fuel injector is dirty or
damaged. To find which fuel injector has a problem, op-
erate the engine at approximately 1000 rpm. Loosen and
tighten the connection to the inlet of each fuel injector in
a sequence. When the connection to the bad fuel injector
is loosened, there will not be a change in the engine
speed.
WARNING
Do not put your hands on fuel lines under pressure.
Fuel oil can be injected into your body by the hy-
draulic pressure.
NOTE: The inspection and repair of fuel injectors re-
quire special tools and training. Many users have a spe-
cial repair service make repairs on fuel injectors. Fuel
injector nozzles that do not operate correctly will cause
black smoke in the exhaust, a decrease in engine power,
and an increase in engine noise.
NOTE: Additional information about the diesel engine
can be found in the section of the SERVICE MANU-
AL:
• THE ISUZU C240 ENGINE, 600 SRM 70
• THE ISUZU 4JB1 ENGINE, 600 SRM 467
• THE ISUZU 4JG2 ENGINE, 600 SRM 553
WELDING REPAIRS
Some repairs require welding. If an acetylene or arc
welder is used, make sure the procedures in the follow-
ing WARNING and CAUTION are done.
WARNING
Welding can cause a fire or an explosion. Always fol-
low the instructions in the FRAME section of the
SERVICE MANUAL if a fuel or hydraulic tank
must be welded. Make sure there is no fuel, oil, or
grease near the weld area. Make sure there is good
ventilation in the area where the welding must be
done.
34
Do not heat, weld, or bend forks. Forks are made of
special steel using special methods. Get information
from your dealer for Hyster lift trucks before weld-
ing on an mast.
CAUTION
When an arc welder is used, always disconnect the
ground cable from the battery in the lift truck. This
action will prevent damage to the alternator or the
battery.
Connect the ground clamp for the arc welder as close
as possible to the weld area. This action will prevent
damage to a bearing from the large current from the
welder.
CHANGES TO THE OVERHEAD GUARD
WARNING
Do not weld mounts for lights or accessories to the
legs of the overhead guard. The strength of the over-
head guard can be reduced by welding or heating.
WHEELS AND TIRES
How To Change A Solid Rubber Tire
[S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65) Models]
(See FIGURE 34.)
Solid rubber tires made from softer or harder material
can be installed as optional equipment. The tread on the
solid rubber tires can be either smooth or it can have
lugs. Do not mix types of tires or tread on the lift truck.
WARNING
The type of solid rubber tire is shown on the name-
plate. Make sure the nameplate is correct for the
type of tires on the lift truck.
Wheels must be changed and tires repaired by
trained personnel only.
Always wear safety glases.
1. Raise the lift truck as described in HOW TO PUT A
LIFT TRUCK ON BLOCKS in this manual.
2. Remove the wheel nuts and remove the wheel from
the lift truck. Lift truck wheels are heavy.
 16 x 5 x 101/2 21 x 7 x 15 OR 21 x 8 x 15
1 1

1. SOLID RUBBER TIRE

2. WHEEL

NOTE: Outside edges of wheel and

2 tire rim are even for all drive and
1364217
steer wheel assemblies. 2 184151
STEERING TIRE AND WHEEL
DRIVE TIRES AND WHEELS
FIGURE 34. TIRES AND WHEELS FOR S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) LIFT TRUCKS

Remove And Install The Tire On The Wheel
1. The correct tools, equipment and a press ring must be
used for each size of wheel. Use a press to push the
wheel from the rim and tire. The capacity of the press
must be approximately 355 kN to 1779 kN (80,000 to
400,000 lb). For the tire sizes, see the nameplate.
hub turns freely with no looseness. The torque must be
less than 27 N.m (20  ). Tighten the castle nut to 34
N.m (25  ) torque. Install the cotter pin in the castle
nut at the first alignment. Install the cap for the bearings.
How To Repair A Pneumatic Tyre
[H2.00–3.20XM (H45–64XM) Models]

NOTE: Make sure the tires are installed on the wheels
so that the outside edges of the tire and wheel are as
shown in FIGURE 34. Also check the nameplate of the
lift truck for the correct tire size and tread width.
2. When the drive wheels are installed on the lift truck,
tighten the wheel nuts to the value shown in the MAIN-
TENANCE SCHEDULE.
WARNING
A solid rubber tire that is the same shape as a pneu-
matic tire can be installed on a wheel for a pneumatic
tire. DO NOT make changes in the parts of the rim if
this type of solid rubber tire is installed instead of a
pneumatic tire. Changes to the parts of the rim can
cause a failure of the wheel and cause an accident.

WARNING
Check all wheel nuts after 2 to 5 hours of operation:
when new lift trucks begin operation and on all lift
trucks when the wheels have been removed and in-
stalled. Tighten the nuts in a cross pattern to the cor-
rect torque value shown in the MAINTENANCE
SCHEDULE. When the nuts stay tight for eight
hours, the interval for checking the torque can be ex-
tended to 250 hours.
3. The steering wheels are fastened to the spindle of the
steering axle with a large castle nut. Make sure the inner
and outer bearings are correctly lubricated with grease.
Install the inner bearing assembly and wheel on the
spindle. Install the outer bearing cone and castle nut.
Tighten the castle nut up to 200 N.m (150  ) torque
while the wheel is rotated. Loosen the castle nut until the
WARNING
The type of tire and the tire pressure (pneumatic
tires) are shown on the nameplate. Make sure the
nameplate is correct for the type of tires on the lift
truck.
Remove The Wheels From The Lift Truck
WARNING
Wheels must be changed and tires repaired by
trained personnel only.
Deflate tire completely before removing the wheel
from the lift truck. If dual wheels are used, deflate
both tires. Air pressure in the tires can cause the tire
and rim parts to explode causing serious injury or
death.

35
 TWO–PIECE WHEEL THREE–PIECE WHEEL FOUR–PIECE WHEEL
1 1 2 1
2
4
3 3

1. WHEEL RIM 3. LOCK RING

2. SIDE FLANGE 4. FLANGE SEAT 11637

FIGURE 35. TYPES OF WHEELS

Always wear safety glasses.

SEE WARNINGS
Never loosen the nuts that hold the inner and outer
wheel halves together when there is air pressure in
the tire.

1. Put the lift truck on blocks as described in How To

Put The Lift Truck On Blocks at the beginning of this STEP 1. Remove the nuts that fasten the wheel
section. rims together.

2. Remove the air from the tire. Remove the valve core
to make sure that all of the air is out of the inner tube.
Push a wire through the valve stem to make sure that the
valve stem does not have a restriction.

3. Remove the wheel nuts and remove the wheel and tire
from the lift truck. Lift truck tires and wheels are heavy.

Remove The Wheel From The Tire

(See FIGURE 36. or FIGURE 37.)

NOTE: When you disassemble the wheels, see STEP 2. Loosen tire bead from wheel rim.
FIGURE 35. There are several types of wheels used on
this series of lift trucks.

WARNING
Make sure all of the air pressure is removed from the
tire before a wheel is disassembled. Air pressure in
the tires can cause the tire and rim parts to explode 11939

causing serious injury or death. STEP 3. Remove wheel rims from tire.
Remove The inner tube and flap.
Keep tire tools in firm contact with the wheel parts.
FIGURE 36. TIRE REMOVAL, TWO PIECE
If the tool slips, it can move with enough force to
WHEEL
cause an injury.

36

SEE WARNINGS
STEP 1. Loosen the tire bead from the side flange.
STEP 2. Put the tire tool into the slot between the
lock ring and wheel rim. Remove the
lock ring and side flange. If there is a
flange seat, remove it.
STEP 3. Loosen the bead from the other side of
the wheel rim. Remove the valve stem
from the wheel.
STEP 4. Remove the wheel from the tire.
FIGURE 37. TIRE REMOVAL, THREE AND
FOUR–PIECE WHEELS
Install The Wheel In The Tire
(See FIGURE 38. or FIGURE 39.)
WARNING
Wheels can explode and cause injury or death if the
following procedures are not followed:
• Clean and inspect all parts of the wheel before
installing the tire.
• DO NOT use any damaged or repaired wheel
parts.
• Make sure that all parts of the wheel are the
correct parts for that wheel assembly.
• DO NOT mix parts between different types or
manufacturers of wheels.
• DO NOT mix types of tires, type of tire tread, or
wheel assemblies of different manufacturers
on any one lift truck.
Do not use a steel hammer on the wheel. Use a
rubber, lead, plastic or brass hammer to put parts to-
gether. Make sure that the side ring is in the correct
position. The ends of the side ring must not touch.
The clearance at the ends of the lock ring will be ap-
proximately 13 to 25 mm (0.5 to 1.0 in) after it is in-
stalled. If the clearance is wrong, the wrong part has
been used.
1. Clean and inspect all parts of the wheel. Paint any
parts that have rust or corrosion.
2. Install a new inner tube in the tire. Used tubes and
flaps can cause tire failure.
3. Apply a rubber lubricant or a soap solution to the tire
bead and tube.
WARNING
Do not lubricate the tire bead with anti–freeze or pe-
troleum based liquid. Vapours from these liquids can
cause an explosion during inflation or use.
4. Install a new tire flap.
37

SEE WARNINGS
STEP 1. Install the inner tube and the rubber flap
in the tire..
STEP 2. Install the wheel rim in the tire. Make
sure the stem of the inner tube is
aligned with the slot in the rim.
STEP 3. Turn over the rim and tire. Put blocks
under the rim so that the rim is 8 to 10
cm (3 to 4 in) above the floor. Install the
flange seat (if used) and the lock ring.
STEP4. Put the lock ring in the correct position
on the rim. Add air pressure to the tire as
described in “Add Air To The Tires”.
FIGURE 38. INSTALL THE WHEEL IN THE
TIRE, THREE OR FOUR PIECE WHEEL
38
5. Make sure the rim is the correct size for the tire. Lubri-
cate the part of the wheel that contacts the bead and flap.
6. Install the two–piece wheel in the tire as shown in
FIGURE 39. Install the three–piece or four–piece wheel
in the tire as shown in FIGURE 38.
11939
SEE WARNINGS
STEP 1. Install the inner tube and the rubber flap
in the tire. Install both halves of the
wheel rim in the tire. Make sure the stem
of the inner tube is aligned with the slot
in the rim.
STEP 2. Tighten the nuts that hold the rim halves
together to 175 N.m (130 lbf ft). Add air
pressure to the tire (see the Nameplate).
FIGURE 39. INSTALL THE WHEEL IN THE
TIRE, TWO–PIECE WHEEL
Pneumatic Tires, Add Air To The Tires
(See FIGURE 40.)
WARNING
Add air pressure to the tires only in a safety cage. In-
spect the safety cage for damage before use. When
air pressure is added, use a chuck that fastens onto
the valve stem of the inner tube. Make sure there is
enough hose to permit the operator to stand away
from the safety cage when air pressure is added to the
tire.
Do not sit or stand by the safety cage. Do not use a
hammer to try and correct the position of the side
flange or lock ring when the tire has air pressure
greater than 20 kPa (3 psi).
 to the correct torque. When the nuts stay tight for
eight hours, the interval for checking can be ex-
tended to 250 hours.

Installation Procedures,
Dual Drive Wheels
NOTE: Some lift trucks have dual drive wheels. The
following procedures describe the steps to install the
dual sets of wheels.
1. See FIGURE 41. Install the inner wheel on the hub.
Tighten the nuts as shown in the MAINTENANCE
SCHEDULE. If the wheels are the two–piece rims,
FIGURE 40. ADD AIR TO THE TIRES make sure the nuts that fasten the rim halves together are
toward the brake drum when they are installed.
1. Put the tire in a safety cage.
2. Install the spacer to the axle shaft. Tighten the nuts to
2. Add 20 kPa (3 psi) of air pressure to the tire.
98 Nm (80 lbf ft).
3. Check that all wheel parts are correctly installed. Hit
3. Install the outer wheel on the spacer. Tighten the nuts
the lock ring lightly to make sure that it is in the seat.
as shown in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. If the
4. If installation is correct, add air pressure to the tire to wheels are the two–piece rims, make sure the nuts that
the specified pressure. fasten the rim halves together are toward the brake drum
when they are installed.
5. Check that all wheel parts are correctly installed. If in-
stallation is not correct, remove all of the air pressure
1 3
from the tire. Remove the valve core to make sure all of
the air pressure has been removed and then make adjust-
ments. The clearance at the ends of the lock ring will be
approximately 13 to 25 mm (0.5 to 1.0 in) when the tire
has the correct air pressure.
Install the Wheels 2
Install the wheel on the hub. Tighten the nuts as shown
in the MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. If the wheels are
the two–piece rims, make sure the nuts that fasten the 4
rim halves together are toward the brake drum when
12614
they are installed.
1. INNER WHEEL 3. OUTER WHEEL
WARNING 2. SPACER 4. EXTENSION, AIR VALVE
When the wheels have been installed, check all wheel FIGURE 41. INSTALLATION, DUAL DRIVE
nuts after 2 to 5 hours of operation. Tighten the nuts WHEELS

39
SOLID RUBBER TIRES Remove The Tire From The Wheel
(See FIGURE 42.)
WARNING
Wheels must be changed and tires repaired by
NOTE: When you disassemble the wheels, see
trained personnel only.
FIGURE 35. There are several types of wheels used on
Always wear safety glasses. these series of lift trucks.
1. Put the lift truck on blocks as described in “How To
Put The Lift Truck On Blocks” at the beginning of this WARNING
section. Keep tire tools in firm contact with the wheel. If the
2. Remove the wheel nuts and remove the wheel and tire tool slips, it can move with enough force to cause seri-
from the lift truck. Lift truck tires and wheels are heavy. ous injury.

SEE WARNINGS
STEP 3. Turn the tire
STEP1. Put the wheel over. Put a
rim on the bed support under
of the press. the wheel rim.
Put the cage Make sure
in position on the wheel rim
the tire. Use is at least 150
the press to to 200 mm (6
push the tire to 8 inches)
away from the from the bed
side flange. of the press.

STEP 4. Put the cage

STEP 2. Put the tire
in position on
tool into the
the tire. Use
slot between
the press to
the lock ring
push the tire
and the wheel
from the
rim. Remove
wheel rim.
the lock ring
and side
flange.

FIGURE 42. REMOVE THE TIRE FROM THE WHEEL

40
Install The Tire On The Wheel • Make sure that all parts of the wheel are the
(See FIGURE 43.) correct parts for that wheel assembly.

NOTE: When you assemble the wheels, see
FIGURE 35. There are several types of wheels used on
these series of lift trucks.
WARNING
Failure to follow these procedures will cause damage
to the tire and wheel assembly and can cause an in-
jury.
• Clean and inspect all parts of the wheel before
installing the tire.
• DO NOT use any damaged or repaired wheel
parts.
• DO NOT mix parts between different types or
manufacturers of wheels.
• DO NOT mix types of tires, type of tire tread, or
wheel assemblies of different manufacturers
on any one lift truck.
Do not use a steel hammer on the wheel. Use a
rubber, lead, plastic or brass hammer to put parts to-
gether. Make sure that the side ring is in the correct
position. The ends of the side ring must not touch.
The clearance at the ends of the lock ring will be ap-
proximately 13 to 25 mm (0.5 to 1.0 in) after it is in-
stalled. If the clearance is wrong, the wrong part has
been used.

SEE WARNINGS
STEP 3. Remove the cage
STEP 1. Lubricate the and put the flange
wheel rim and seat (if used),the
the inner sur- side ring and the
face of the tire lock ring in posi-
with tire lubri- tion on the wheel
cant or soap. rim. Install the
cage on the tire.
CAUTION Use the press to
Too much lubricant can push the tire onto
cause the tire to slide and the wheel rim so
move around the wheel rim. that the side flange
and lock ring can
be installed.
STEP 2. Put the wheel
rim on the bed
of the press. STEP 4. While the cage
Put the tire is holding the
over the wheel tire on the wheel
rim. Put the rim, install the
cage in position lock ring. Use a
on the tire. Use tire tool to make
the press to in- sure the lock
stall the tire on ring is in the cor-
the wheel rim. rect position.
12602

FIGURE 43. INSTALL THE TIRE ON THE WHEEL

41
 LIFT TRUCK WEIGHTS CAPACITIES
MODEL kg lb ITEM QUANTITY
ENGINE OIL (with filter)
S2.00XM (S40XM) 2595 6818
MAZDA M4–2.0G 4.3 litre (4.5 qt)
S2.25XM (S45XM) 3280 7228 GM 2.2L 4.3 litre (4.5 qt)
GM 3.0L 4.3 litre (4.5 qt)
S2.50XM (S50XM) 3470 7643
ISUZU C240 6.5 litre (6.9 qt)
S2.50XM/6 (S55XM) 3655 8053 ISUZU 4JB1 5.9 litre (6.2 qt)
ISUZU 4JG2 6.7 litre (7.0 qt)
S2.50XM/6 (S55XMS) 3730 8208
COOLING SYSTEM
S3.00XM (S60XM) 3900 8590
MAZDA M4–2.0G 7.6 litre (8.0 qt)
S3.20XML (S65XM) 4060 8950 GM 2.2L and GM 3.0l 11.0 litre (11.7 qt)
ISUZU C240 11.4 litre (12.0 qt)
H2.00XM1 3610 7961
ISUZU 4JB1 11.0 litre (11.7 qt)
(H45XM)1 3765 8296 ISUZU 4JG2 11.0 litre (11.7 qt)
H2.50XM (H50XM)1 3965 8741 HYDRAULIC SYSTEM Initial Fill
S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) 32.0 litre (33.8 qt)
H2.50XMX (H50XM)2 4100 9031 H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) 34.0 litre (35.9qt)
(H55XM)1 4145 9136 HYDRAULIC TANK Drain & Fill
H3.00XM (H60XM)1 4370 9624 S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) 26.0 litre (27.5 qt)
H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) 30.4 litre (32.1 qt)
H3.00XMX (H60XM)2 4425 9754
TRANSMISSION
H3.20XML (H65XM)2 4500 9909 S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) 10.5 litre (11.0 qt)
H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) 9.0 litre (9.5 qt)
NOTES:
1 = 1625 mm (63.9 in) wheelbase DIFFERENTIAL
2 = 1700 mm (67.0 in) wheelbase S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) 3.8 litre (8.0 pt)
All units equipped with gasoline engine, standard H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) 7.6 litre (8.0 qt)
carriage, forks, two–stage limited free–lift mast and FUEL TANK
91 kg (200 lb) operator. S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) 39.4 litre (10.4 gal)
H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) 51.3 litre (13.5 gal)
BRAKE FLUID 0.2 litre (0.4 pt)

TIRE PRESSURE
BIAS PLY TIRES
Tire Size kPa psi
TIRE SIZES
6.00 x 9 , 10 ply 860 125
S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM)
6.50 x 10, 10 ply 795 115
7.00 x 12 , 12 ply 860 125 DRIVE TIRES STEER TIRES
28 x 9 – 15, 12 ply 825 120
21 X 7 X 15 16 X 5 X 10.5

RADIAL TIRES 21 X 8 X 15 16 X 6 X 10.5

Tire Size kPa psi
6.00 R9 1000 145
6.50 R10 1000 145 This section is for the following models:
7.00 R12 1000 145 S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM)
225/75 R15 1000 145 H2.50–3.20XM (H45–65XM)

1 1
 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM – GASOLINE/LPG
ITEM MAZDA M4–2.0G GM 2.2L GM 3.0L
All Models 12 volt, negative ground 12 volt, negative ground 12 volt, negative ground
Alternator Output (Hot) 37 amps @ 2700 rpm 100 amps @ 2700 rpm 56 amps @ 2600 rpm
Ignition Timing
Gasoline 0° BTDC Electronic Electronic
LPG 9° BTDC Timing Timing
Spark Plugs ND W14 EXR–U AC R44 LTSMA AC R44 LTSMA
Spark Plug Gap 0.8 mm (0.032 in) 1.1 mm (0.045 in) 1.1 mm (0.045 in)

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM – DIESEL

ITEM ISUZU C240 ISUZU 4JB1 ISUZU 4JG2
All Models 12 volt, negative ground 12 volt, negative ground 12 volt, negative ground
Alternator Output (Hot) 56 amps @ 2700 rpm 56 amps @ 2200 rpm 56 amps @ 2200 rpm

TRANSMISSION OIL PRESSURES

TEST PORT 1 TEST PORT 2 TEST PORT 3 TEST PORT 4 TEST PORT 4 TEST PORT 6
965–1170 kPa 724–860 kPa 724–860 kPa 724–827 kPa 105–175 kPa Pressure
(140–170 psi) (105–125 psi) (105–125 psi) (105–120 psi) (15–25 psi) Variation
NOTES:
All pressures are measured at 2000 rpm, oil temperature at 50°C (130°F) 4 1
The difference in the FORWARD and REVERSE clutch pressures must
not be more than 70 kPa (10 psi) 2

TEST PORT 1 – PRESSURE FROM THE TRANSMISSION PUMP

TEST PORT 2 – PRESSURE TO THE FORWARD CLUTCH
TEST PORT 3 – PRESSURE TO THE REVERSE CLUTCH
TEST PORT 4 – OIL PRESSURE TO THE TORQUE CONVERTER
TEST PORT 5 – OIL PRESSURE FROM THE OIL COOLER
TEST PORT 6 – MODULATOR PRESSURE 5
6 3

2
 HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
ITEM SPECIFICATION
HYDRAULIC PUMP
Type Gear
Priority Flow 10 litre/min (2.64 gal/min)
RELIEF PRESSURES
Steering (At Pump) 10.6 to 11.7 MPa (1545 to 1700 psi)
Primary (At Control Valve) 21.37 ± 0.5 MPa (3100 ± 75 psi)
Secondary (At Control Valve) 15.5 ± 0.5 MPa (2250 ± 75 psi)
All pressures with oil at 55 to 65°C (130 to150°F) and engine at 2000 rpm

STALL SPEEDS
H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM)

ENGINE NEW ENGINE ENGINE WITH

30+ HOURS
MAZDA M4–2.0G
Gasoline 1930 to 2030 rpm 2050 to 2150 rpm
LPG 1880 to 1980 rpm 2000 to 2100 rpm
GM 2.2L
Gasoline 2100 to 2200 rpm 2200 to 2300 rpm
LPG 2000 to 2100 rpm 2150 to 2250 rpm
GM 3.0L
Gasoline 2100 to 2200 rpm 2200 to 2300 rpm
LPG 2000 to 2100 rpm 2150 to 2250 rpm
ISUZU C420 2050 to 2150 rpm 2170 to 2270 rpm
ISUZU 4JB1 1835 to 1935 rpm 1870 to 1970 rpm
ISUZU 4JG2 1835 to 1935 rpm 1870 to 1970 rpm

STALL SPEEDS
S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM)

ENGINE NEW ENGINE ENGINE WITH

30+ HOURS
MAZDA M4–2.0G
Gasoline 1930 to 2030 rpm 2030 to 2130 rpm
LPG 1930 to 2030 rpm 2030 to 2130 rpm
Dual Fuel
Gasoline 1930 to 2030 rpm 2030 to 2130 rpm
LPG 1930 to 2030 rpm 2030 to 2130 rpm
GM 3.0L
Gasoline 2275 to 2375 rpm 2275 to 2375 rpm
LPG 2130 to 2230 rpm 2230 to 2330 rpm
Dual Fuel
Gasoline 2130 to 2230 rpm 2230 to 2330 rpm
LPG 2130 to 2230 rpm 2230 to 2330 rpm
3 3
 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS – GASOLINE/LPG
ITEM MAZDA M4–2.0G GM 2.2L GM 3.0L
No. of Cylinders 4 4 4
Firing Order 1–3–4–2 1–3–4–2 1–3–4–2
Bore and Stroke 86 mm x 86 mm 89 mm x 88 mm 120 mm x 91 mm
(3.39 in x 3.39 in) (3.50 in x 3.46 in) (4.00 in x 3.60 in)
Displacement 1998 cm3 (122 in3) 2200 cm3 (134 in3) 2966 cm3 (181 in3)
Compression Ratio 8.6:1 9.0:1 8.0:1
Compression Pressure 1131 kPa (164 psi) 758 kPa (110 psi) 758 kPa (110 psi)
@ 270 rpm @ 200 rpm @ 200 rpm
Oil Pressure 226 to 362 kPa 138 kPa (20 psi) min. 138 kPa (20 psi) min.
(33 to 52 psi) @2400 rpm @1200 rpm @1200 rpm

Valve Clearance 0.3 mm (0.012 in) Hot Not Adjustable Not Adjustable
(Intake/Exhaust)
Idle Speed
Gasoline 725 ± 25 rpm 800 ± 25 rpm 800 ± 25 rpm
LPG 725 ± 25 rpm 900 ± 50 rpm 725 ± 25 rpm
Governed Speed
@ No Load 2600 to 2700 rpm 2850 to 2950 rpm 2850 to 2950 rpm
Thermostat Range 82°C (180°F) 82°C (180°F) 82°C (180°F)
Cooling System
Pressure 103 kPa (15 psi) 88 kPa (13 psi) 88 kPa (13 psi)

ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS – DIESEL

ITEM ISUZU C240 ISUZU 4JB1 ISUZU 4JG2
No. of Cylinders 4 4 4
Firing Order 1–3–4–2 1–3–4–2 1–3–4–2
Bore and Stroke 86 mm x 102 mm 93 mm x 102 mm 95 mm x 107 mm
(3.39 in x 4.02 in) (3.67 in x 4.02 in) (3.74 in x 4.21 in)
Displacement 2369 cm3 (145 in3) 2771 cm3 (169 in3) 3059 cm3 (187 in3)
Compression Ratio 20.0:1 18.2:1 20.25:1
Compression Pressure 3040 kPa (441 psi) 2800 kPa (405 psi) 22941 kPa (427 psi)
@ 200 rpm @ 200 rpm @ 250 rpm
Oil Pressure 390 kPa (57 psi) min. 294 kPa (43 psi) min. 294 kPa (43 psi) min.
@1000 rpm @2000 rpm @2000 rpm
Valve Clearance 0.45 mm (0.018 in) 0.40 mm (0.016 in) 0.40 mm (0.016 in)
(Intake/Exhaust) Cold Cold Cold
Idle Speed 775 ± 25 rpm 775 ± 25 rpm 725 ± 25 rpm
Governed Speed @ No Load 2600 to 2700 rpm 2100 to 2200 rpm 2100 to 2200 rpm
Thermostat Range 75 to 78°C 75 to 78°C 80.5 to 83.5°C
(167 to 172°F) (167 to 172°F) (177 to 182°F)
Cooling System Pressure 103 kPa (15 psi) 103 kPa (15 psi) 103 kPa (15 psi)
Fuel Injector Pressure 1195 MPa (1706 psi) 1814 MPa (2630 psi) 1471 MPa (2133 psi)
Fuel Injection Timing 9° BTDC Static 16° BTDC Static 6° BTDC Static
4
 S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) MAST SPEEDS – MAZDA M4–2.0G ENGINE
TWO–STAGE LIMITED FREE–LIFT
LIFTING LOWERING
UNIT No Load Rated Load No Load Rated Load
m/sec ft/min m/sec ft/min m/sec ft/min m/sec ft/min
S2.00XM .63 124 .58 114 .42 83 .50 98
(S40XM)
S2.25XM .63 124 .57 112 .42 83 .50 98
(S45XM)
S2.50XM ..63 124 .57 112 .42 83 .50 98
(S50XM)
S2.50XM ..63 124 .56 110 .42 83 .50 98
(S55XM)
S3.00XM .55 108 .50 100 .42 83 .50 98
(S60XM)
S3.20XM .55 108 .49 96 .42 83 .50 98
(S65XM)
TWO–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT
S2.00XM .55 108 .51 100 .42 83 .50 98
(S40XM)
S2.25XM .55 108 .51 100 .42 83 .50 98
(S45XM)
S2.50XM .55 108 .50 98 .42 83 .50 98
(S50XM)
S2.50XM .55 108 .50 98 .42 83 .50 98
(S55XM)
S3.00XM .55 108 .49 96 .42 83 .50 98
(S60XM)
S3.20XM .55 108 .47 92 .42 83 .50 98
(S65XM)
THREE–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT
S2.00XM .57 112 .53 104 .42 83 .50 98
(S40XM)
S2.25XM .57 112 .53 104 .42 83 .50 98
(S45XM)
S2.50XM .57 112 .52 102 .42 83 .50 98
(S50XM)
S2.50XM .57 112 .51 100 .42 83 .50 98
(S55XM)
S3.00XM .53 104 .48 94 .42 83 .50 98
(S60XM)
S3.20XM .53 104 .47 92 .42 83 .50 98
(S65XM)

5 5
 S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) MAST SPEEDS – GM 3.0L ENGINE
TWO–STAGE LIMITED FREE–LIFT
LIFTING LOWERING
UNIT No Load Rated Load No Load Rated Load
m/sec ft/min m/sec ft/min m/sec ft/min m/sec ft/min
S2.00–2.25XM .71 140 .68 134 .42 83 .50 98
(S40–45XM)
S2.50XM .71 140 .67 132 .42 83 .50 98
(S50–55XM)
S3.00–3.20XM .62 122 .59 116 .42 83 .50 98
(S60–65XM)
TWO–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT
S2.00–2.25XM .65 128 .63 124 .42 83 .50 98
(S40–45XM)
S2.50XM .65 128 .67 132 .42 83 .50 98
(S50–55XM)
S3.00–3.20XM .66 130 .61 120 .42 83 .50 98
(S60–65XM)
THREE–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT
S2.00–2.25XM .65 128 .62 122 .42 83 .50 98
(S40–45XM)
S2.50XM .65 128 .61 120 .42 83 .50 98
(S50–55XM)
S3.00–3.20XM .60 118 .56 110 .42 83 .50 98
(S60–65XM)

H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) MAST SPEEDS

ISUZU C240 AND 4JB1 DIESEL ENGINES
TWO–STAGE LIMITED FREE–LIFT
UNIT LIFTING LOWERING
No Load Rated Load No Load Rated Load
m/sec ft/min m/sec ft/min m/sec ft/min m/sec ft/min
H2.00–2.50XM .60 118 .56 110 .42 83 .50 98
(H45–55XM)
H3.00–3.20XM .52 102 .48 95 .42 83 .50 98
(H60–65XM)
TWO–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT
H2.00–2.50XM .52 102 .49 97 .42 83 .50 98
(H45–55XM)
H3.00–3.20XM .52 102 .48 95 .42 83 .50 98
(H60–65XM)
THREE–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT
H2.00–2.50XM .55 108 .51 100 .42 83 .50 98
(H45–55XM)
H3.00–3.20XM .50 98 .48 91 .42 83 .50 98
(H60–65XM)

6
H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) MAST SPEEDS – ISUZU 4JG2 DIESEL ENGINE
TWO–STAGE LIMITED FREE–LIFT
UNIT LIFTING LOWERING
No Load Rated Load No Load Rated Load
m/sec ft/min m/sec ft/min m/sec ft/min m/sec ft/min
H2.00XM .61 120 .56 110 .42 83 .50 98
(H45XM)
H2.50XM .61 120 .55 108 .42 83 .50 98
(H50–55XM)
H3.00XM .53 104 .47 92 .42 83 .50 98
H60XM .53 104 .48 94 .42 83 .50 98
H3.20XM .53 104 .47 92 .42 83 .50 98
(H65XM)
TWO–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT
H2.00XM .53 104 .49 96 .42 83 .50 98
(H45XM)
H2.50XM .53 104 .48 94 .42 83 .50 98
(H50–55XM)
H3.00XM .53 104 .47 92 .42 83 .50 98
H60XM .53 104 .47 92 .42 83 .50 98
H3.20XM .53 104 .46 90 .42 83 .50 98
(H65XM)
THREE–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT
H2.00XM .55 108 .51 100 .42 83 .50 98
(H45XM)
H2.50XM .55 108 .50 98 .42 83 .50 98
(H50–55XM)
H3.00XM .51 100 .45 88 .42 83 .50 98
H60XM .51 100 .46 88 .42 83 .50 98
H3.20XM .51 100 .45 88 .42 83 .50 98
(H65XM)

7 7
 H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) MAST SPEEDS – MAZDA M4–2.0G ENGINE
TWO–STAGE LIMITED FREE–LIFT
UNIT LIFTING LOWERING
No Load Rated Load No Load Rated Load
m/sec ft/min m/sec ft/min m/sec ft/min m/sec ft/min
H2.00–2.50XM .60 118 .54 106 .42 83 .50 98
(H45–55XM)
H3.00–3.20XM .52 102 .47 93 .42 83 .50 98
(H60–65XM)
TWO–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT
H2.00–2.50XM .52 102 .47 93 .42 83 .50 98
(H45–55XM)
H3.00–3.20XM .52 102 .46 91 .42 83 .50 98
(H60–65XM)
THREE–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT
H2.00–2.50XM .55 108 .49 97 .42 83 .50 98
(H45–55XM)
H3.00–3.20XM .50 98 .45 87 .42 83 .50 98
(H60–65XM)

H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) MAST SPEEDS

GM 2.2L AND GM 3.0L ENGINE
TWO–STAGE LIMITED FREE–LIFT
UNIT LIFTING LOWERING
No Load Rated Load No Load Rated Load
m/sec ft/min m/sec ft/min m/sec ft/min m/sec ft/min
H2.00–2.50XM .66 130 .64 126 .42 83 .50 98
(H45–55XM)
H3.00–3.20XM .58 114 .56 110 .42 83 .50 98
(H60–65XM)
TWO–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT
H2.00–2.50XM .58 114 .56 110 .42 83 .50 98
(H45–55XM)
H3.00–3.20XM .58 114 .56 110 .42 83 .50 98
(H60–65XM)
THREE–STAGE FULL FREE–LIFT
H2.00–2.50XM .61 120 .59 16 .42 83 .50 98
(H45–55XM)
H3.00–3.20XM .56 110 .53 105 .42 83 .50 98
(H60–65XM)

8
 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
ITEM SPECIFICATION
FRAME
Overhead Guard Mount 66 N.m (49 lbf ft)
Operator Compartment Mount 53 N.m (39 lbf ft)
Cowl to Overhead Guard Legs 66 N.m (49 lbf ft)
Counterweight 555 N.m ( 409 lbf ft)
BRAKE SYSTEM
Wheel Cylinder Capscrews 18 to 27 N.m (13 to 20 lbf ft)
Back Plate to Axle Mount Capscrews
S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) 255 N.m (188 lbf ft)
H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) 225 N.m (166 lbf ft)
MAST
Lift Cylinder Mount Bolts 53 N.m (40 lbf ft)
Mast Pivot Capscrews 90 N.m (66 lbf ft)
STEERING SYSTEM
Axle Mount Capscrews 88 N.m (65 lbf ft)
Steering Cylinder Mount
S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) 121 N.m (89 lbf ft)
H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) 225 N.m (165 lbf ft)
Tie Rods S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) Only
Lower Spindle Cap 163 N.m (120 lbf ft)
S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) Only 44 N.m (32 lbf ft)
King Pin Nut H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) Only 90 N.m (66 lbf ft) Initial 34 N.m (25 lbf ft) Final
Wheel Bearings 200 N.m (150 lbf ft) Initial 34 N.m (25 lbf ft) Final
Wheel Nuts H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) Only
Two–Piece Wheels 610–680 N.m (450–500 lbf ft)
Three–Piece Wheels 155 N.m (115 lbf ft)
DRIVE AXLE
Back Plate to Axle Mount Capscrews
S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) 255 N.m (188 lbf ft)
H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) 225 N.m (166 lbf ft)
Axle Mounts S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM)
Torque Wrench on Head of Bolt 780 N.m (576 lbf ft)
Torque Wrench on Nut of Bolt 715 N.m (528 lbf ft)
Axle Mounts H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM)
Torque Wrench on Head of Bolt 540 N.m (400 lbf ft)
Torque Wrench on Nut of Bolt 473 N.m (350 lbf ft)
Spindle to Differential Housing Capscrews
H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) Only 66 N.m (50 lbf ft)
Axle Housings to Differential Housing
S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) Only 90 N.m (66 lbf ft)
Differential Housing to Diff. Adaptor Housing
S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) Only 38 N.m (28 lbf ft)
Axle Shaft Capscrews
S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) 90 N.m (66 lbf ft)
H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) 98 N.m (75 lbf ft)
Wheel Nuts
S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) 237 to 305 N.m (175 to 225 lbf ft)
H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) 610 to 680 N.m (450 to 500 lbf ft)

9 9
 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
ITEM SPECIFICATION
TRANSMISSION AND DIFFERENTIAL
Control Valve Capscrews 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
Front Cover Capscrews 38 N.m (28 lbf ft)
Torque Converter Drive Plate Capscrews
S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) 38 N.m (28 lbf ft)
H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) 45 N.m (33 lbf ft)
Torque Converter Housing
H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) Only 38 N.m (28 lbf ft)
Torque Converter Housing to Engine Capscrews
S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) Only 59 N.m (44 lbf ft)
Transmission Housing to Engine Capscrews
H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) Only
M10 Capscrews 38 N.m (28 lbf ft)
M12 Capscrews 66 N.m (49 lbf ft)
Differential Bearing Lock Plate
S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) Only 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
Differential Bearing Caps
H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) Only 175 N.m (129 lbf ft)
Differential Adaptor to Trans. and to Diff. Housing
S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) Only 38 N.m (28 lbf ft)
Differential Case H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) Only 71 N.m (52 lbf ft)
Pinion Nut 750 N.m (553 lbf ft)
Ring Gear Bolts
S2.00–3.20XM (S40–65XM) 111 N.m (82 lbf ft)
H2.00–3.20XM (H45–65XM) 142 N.m (105 lbf ft)
Thrust Bolt Lock Nut 68–95 N.m (50–72 lbf ft)

ENGINE – MAZDA M4–2.0G

Camshaft Pulley Lock Bolt 48 to 66 N.m (35 to 48 lbf ft)
Cooling Fan 8 to 11 N.m (6 to 8 lbf ft)
Connecting Rod Cap 51 to 56 N.m (37 to 41 lbf ft)
Crankshaft Pulley 30 to 33 N.m (22 to 24 lbf ft)
Cylinder Head 81 to 88 N.m (60 to 65 lbf ft)
Engine Mount to Engine 40 N.m (30 lbf ft)
Exhaust Manifold 22 to 29 N.m (16 to 21 lbf ft)
Flywheel 96 to 103 N.m (71 to 76 lbf ft)
Flywheel Housing
M8 Capscrews 21 to 25 N.m (16 to 19 lbf ft)
M14 Capscrews 114 to 136 N.m (84 to 100 lbf ft)
Intake Manifold 19 to 31 N.m (14 to 22 lbf ft)
Main Bearing Cap 84 to 90 N.m (61 to 65 lbf ft)
Oil Pan 7 to 12 N.m (5 to 9 lbf ft)
Oil Pump
M8 Capscrews 19 to 26 N.m (14 to 19 lbf ft)
M10 Capscrews 38 to 53 N.m (27 to 38 lbf ft)
Rocker Shaft Assembly 18 to 27 N.m (13 to 20 lbf ft)
Spark Plugs 15 to 23 N.m (11 to 17 lbf ft)
Starter 41 to 49 N.m (30 to 36 lbf ft)
Thermostat Cover 12 to 18 N.m (9 to 13 lbf ft)
Timing Belt Cover
Upper Capscrews 8 to 12 N.m (6 to 9 lbf ft)
Lower Capscrews 7 to 8 N.m (5 to 6 lbf ft)
Timing Tension Lock Bolt 20 to 35 N.m (14 to 25 lbf ft)
Water Pump 19 to 26 N.m (14 to 19 lbf ft)
10
 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
ITEM SPECIFICATION
ENGINE – GM 2.2L
Camshaft Sprocket 105 N.m (77 lbf ft)
Camshaft Thrust Plate 12 N.m (106 lbf in)
Connecting Rod Cap Nuts 52 N.m (38 lbf ft)
Crankshaft Pulley Hub 105 N.m (77 lbf ft)
Crankshaft Pulley 50 N.m (37 lbf ft)
Crankshaft Sensor 9 N.m (80 lbf ft)
Cylinder Head See SERVICE MANUAL
Engine Mount to Engine 52 N.m (38 lbf ft)
Exhaust Manifold 13 N.m (115 lbf in)
Fan Pulley 15 to 25 N.m (11 to 18 lbf ft)
Flywheel 75 N.m (55 lbf ft)
Flywheel Housing 40 to 60 N.m (30 to 44 lbf ft)
Idler Pulley 25 N.m (18 lbf ft)
Intake Manifold 25 N.m (18 lbf ft)
Main Bearing Cap 95 N.m (70 lbf ft)
Oil Pan 8 N.m (71 lbf in)
Oil Pump Cover 10 N.m (89 lbf in)
Oil Pump Drive Assembly 25 N.m (18 lbf ft)
Oil Pump Mount 43 N.m (32 lbf ft)
Rocker Arm Nuts 30 N.m (22 lbf ft)
Rocker Cover 10 N.m (89 lbf in)
Spark Plugs 15 N.m (11 lbf ft)
Starter 41 to 49 N.m (30 to 36 lbf ft)
Timing Chain Tensioner 24 N.m (18 lbf ft)
Timing Cover 11 N.m (97 lbf in)
Lower Capscrews 7 to 8 N.m (5 to 6 lbf ft)
Water Pump 25 N.m (18 lbf ft)
Water Pump Pulley 27 to 34 N.m (20 to 25 lbf ft)
ENGINE – GM 3.0L
Cylinder Head Capscrews 130 N.m (95 lbf ft)
Main Bearing Capscrews 90 N.m (66 lbf ft)
Connecting Rod Cap Nuts 50 N.m (37 lbf ft)
Crankshaft Pulley Capscrews 44 N.m (32 lbf ft)
Flywheel 107 N.m (79 lbf ft)
Torque Converter Drive Plate 45 N.m (33 lbf ft)
Starter Capscrews 44 N.m ( 32 lbf ft)
Torque Converter Housing 44 N.m (l32 lbf ft)
Fan Capscrews 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)

11 11
 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
ITEM SPECIFICATION
ENGINE – ISUZU C240
Camshaft Gear Capscrew 108 N.m (80 lbf ft)
Camshaft Thrust Plate 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
Camshaft Pulley 147 N.m (109 lbf ft)
Connecting Rod Cap 78 N.m (58 lbf ft)
Cylinder Head 78 N.m (58 lbf ft)
Engine Mount to Engine
Right–Hand Side 55 N.m (41 lbf ft)
Left–Hand Side 40 N.m (30 lbf ft)
Flywheel 120 N.m (89 lbf ft)
Idler Gear 26 N.m (19 lbf ft)
Main Bearing Cap 160 N.m (120 lbf ft)
Rear Oil Seal 49 N.m (36 lbf ft)
Rocker Arm Bracket 29 N.m (22 lbf ft)
ENGINE – ISUZU 4JB1
Camshaft Gear Capscrew 108 N.m (80 lbf ft)
Camshaft Thrust Plate 20 N.m (15 lbf ft)
Connecting Rod Cap 84 N.m (62 lbf ft)
Coolant Pump 20 N.m (15 lbf ft)
Crankshaft Pulley 195 N.m (145 lbf ft)
Cylinder Head
1st step (New Capscrew) 39 N.m (29 lbf ft)
2nd step (New Capscrew) 86 N.m (64 lbf ft)
1st step (Used Capscrew) 84 N.m (62 lbf ft)
2nd step (Used Capscrew) 103 N.m (76 lbf ft)
Engine Mount to Engine 40 N.m (30 lbf ft)
Exhaust Manifold 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
Flywheel 120 N.m (90 lbf ft)
Flywheel Housing See SERVICE MANUAL
Fuel Injector Bracket 38 N.m (28 lbf ft)
Fuel Injector Line Sleeve Nut 35 N.m (26 lbf ft)
Glow Plugs 23 N.m (17 lbf ft)
Inlet Manifold 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
Main Bearing Cap 167 N.m (123 lbf ft)
Oil Pump 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
Rocker Arm Adjustment Nuts 15 N.m (11 lbf ft)
Rocker Arm Bracket 54 N.m (40 lbf ft)
Timing Gear Cover
M8 x 1.25 15 N.m (11 lbf ft)
M12 x 1.25 80 N.m (60 lbf ft)
Timing Gear Case 19 N./m (14 lbf ft)
Timing Gears
Idler Gear “A” 20 N.m (15 lbf ft)
Idler Gear “B” 108 N.m (80 lbf ft)
Valve Cover 13 N.m (10 lbf ft)

12
 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
ITEM SPECIFICATION
ENGINE – ISUZU 4JG2
Camshaft Gear Capscrew 64 N.m (47 lbf ft)
Camshaft Thrust Plate 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
Connecting Rod Cap
1st step 29 N.m (22 lbf ft)
2nd step additional 49° to 60° rotation
Connecting Rod Oil Pipe
M8 x 1.25 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
M6 x 1.00 8 N.m (69 lbf in)
Regulating Valve M6 x 1.5 29 N.m (22 lbf ft)
Coolant Pump 20 N.m (14 lbf ft)
Crankshaft Pulley 275 N.m (203 lbf ft)
Crankshaft Bearing Cap 167 N.m (123 lbf ft)
Cylinder Head
1st step 49 N.m (36 lbf ft)
2nd step additional 60° to 75° rotation
3rd step additional 60° to 75° rotation
Drain Plug 83 N.m (61 lbf ft)
Engine Mount to Engine See SERVICE MANUAL
Exhaust Manifold See SERVICE MANUAL
Flywheel 120 N.m (89 lbf ft)
Flywheel Housing See SERVICE MANUAL
Fuel Injector Drive Gear 64 N.m (47 lbf ft)
Fuel Injector Line Sleeve Nut 29 N.m (22 lbf ft)
Fuel Injector
Nozzle 64 N.m (47 lbf ft)
Retaining Nut 39 N.m (32 lbf ft)
Glow Plugs 23 N.m (17 lbf ft)
Inlet Manifold See SERVICE MANUAL
Injection Pump
Adjustment Bolt 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
Distributor Head Plug 17 N.m (12 lbf ft)
Main Bearing Cap 167 N.m (123 lbf ft)
Oil Pump 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
Oil Pump Filter Bracket 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
Oil Pump Pipe Sleeve Nut 25 N.m (18 lbf ft)
Oil Pan & Seal Retainer Bolts 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
Rocker Arm Adjustment Nuts 15 N.m (11 lbf ft)
Rocker Arm Bracket 54 N.m (40 lbf ft)
Starter 88 N.m (65 lbf ft)
Thermostat Housing 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
Timing Gear Cover 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
Timing Gear Case 19 N./m (14 lbf ft)
Timing Gears
Idler Gear “A” 19 N.m (14 lbf ft)
Idler Gear “B” 76 N.m (56 lbf ft)
Timing Gear Oil Pipe 13 N.m (9 lbf ft)
Valve Cover 13 N.m (9 lbf ft)

13 13
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