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Zuidema
U. Quispe M.
A visit to God - The account and interpretation of a religious experience in the Peruvian community
of Choque-Huarcaya
In: Bijdragen tot de Taal-, Land- en Volkenkunde 124 (1968), no: 1, Leiden, 22-39
and the one that came behind was coloured chiqchi1 and this one
carried a chusiq 2 on his shoulder and was dressed in a robe. Like
that with their robes and girdles they took me, Sir.
Like that I went to the centre through a bluish medium. We started
off through a flower garden and then reached a village of thorns. After
having passed the village of thorns with so much trouble, we entered
a place of clear sky that went straight up; there I saw a lot of big dogs,
black tawanawi with four eyes 3 above the road and coffee-coloured
ones below it, they were resting. I think there were four above and
four below the path — there they were, those dogs —; so I said 'can
I speak?' and got answered 'no, we'11 pass in silence, because if you
talk they can kill us'. Although it was in such heat that I could hardly
walk they told me to hurry. That, Sir, is how we got through that
village, how we escaped from those dogs.
On we went then, qiqa machay?, a bit up from Ayacucho it is,
Qiqapampa, there we entered; it was 'putya'A They went very easily
while I could hardly walk in the heat — I feit the heat inside me.
After this we started over some sand dunes, and I sank as if I were
in a moor and because of this my feet got blistered. Uselessly I called:
'What heat!'.
From the sand dunes we went right up to a church, which was
apparently in the sky, I was still going in between the two. There
from the centre of the church I saw Heil which had a zig-zag path
leading up to it. When we were going there Our Lord Himself said
to them, to those who were taking me: 'hurry'. The Lord was sitting
exactly in the door to Heil, with a beautiful golden beard and with
a staff of silver and gold; at His left four beautiful girls were sitting,
and at His right there were four gentlemen, thus with the Lord Himself
there were five gentlemen. He told me to get out from where I was
and to stand in a corner; there in this corner were the most beautiful
polished pews, and when He said to me: 'get in' I got under a beautiful
varnished pew; there I sat while those that had brought me entered.
'What have you been doing all this time?' the Lord asked them. He
1
A black colour with white spots, or vice versa.
2
A small nocturnal bird which announces death.
3
Black or coffee coloured dogs have often lighter coloured spots above their
eyes, that give them an appearance of having four eyes; these are called
tawanawi.
4
This can be translated as 'craggy', but an Ayacucho informant said that it
means 'dusty'; in any case it means that some sort of trouble had to be
overcome.
24 R. T. ZUIDEMA AND U. QUISPE M.
knocked one of them over and hit him with His staif; this one got up
straight away and couldn't carry a brick that he had, neither could
he get up when he was given the robe that his companion had. Then
He made him climb up and enter a dark place. Now He hit the other
one and said 'What have you been doing all this time, did I send you
for her ? I sent you for someone else. Why did you bring me a woman
whom I didn't send you to get ?' And He sent this one up as well;
I just sat there watching.
After they had gone in, Our Lord said to me to return from here
without turning my head back, so I left. When I was leaving the
church... it all cleared up, it was wonderfully white snow, a clear
world. I was at the banks of a spring which is on the path to Tomanga 5
where there was a beautiful white china cup with which I drank some
water; suddenly it all became clear to me and I spoke: 'please give me
water' and they gave me more water and it all cleared up even more.
Then I woke up, as from a dream; they told me to say 'Jesus' a n ( j
I said ' J e s u s Taytallay' (Our Lord), and there off I got back all
my strength.
So I got to know the other world and came back; Our Lord Himself
said to me 'I didn't get them to call you, it was another, and they
mistook you for him'.
This search for a basic structure led us to the study of the system
of ceques (Zuidema 1964). Another means to arrive at it was found
in the diagrams of the chroniclers Perez Bocanegra (1631) and Joan
de Santacruz Pachacuti Yamqui (1613). Both diagrams depict the same
order between their constituent elements, the former as to the kinship
system and the latter as to the Inca religious system. Our task is now
to show that the same order exists in the text of this study.
In another publication we shall study in greater detail just how the
drawings of Perez Bocanegra and Pachacuti Yamqui express most of
the basic ideas of the pre-Columbian Andean social and religious
structure, but we must now indicate at least some of the conclusions
we have reached. Firstly we intend to demonstrate a concordance
between Perez Bocanegra, Pachacuti Yamqui and our text. The con-
26 R. T. ZUIDEMA AND U. QUISPE M.
to discuss here: the ascent through the five fields, the description of
God and His companions and, finally, the Tawanawi dogs. These last
are also found in other descriptions of the world of the dead, thus
demonstrating that our informant did employ elements belonging to
her culture.
The arrangement of God with the four male saints on His right hand
and four female ones on His left is also found in the diagrams of Perez
Bocanegra and Pachacuti Yamqui; in the former it is seen when he
describes the Inca kinship system, in the latter in his description of
the religious and cosmological system. A diagram is given by the
former to illustrate the type of lineage and the degrees of kinship
that operated in it.
O = woman.
A = man.
A Viracocha
Sun A O Moon
Man A Ml O Woman
PATA
last Inca) were placed in the Temple of the Sun in Cuzco. The system
behind the arrangement of the mummies was such that the older the
mummies were, the lower were the positions in the social and cos-
mological hierarchy that they represented. Whilst every Inca started
as a 'Viracocha' (as one chronicler says of the reigning Inca), with
every succeeding generation after his death he represented a category
lower down in the hierarchical order. This system of the mummies
of the ancestors was thus a model of the society as well.
It is important to take note of this application of the model for it is
in this form that we can recognise it so clearly in the art of the pre-Inca
Tiahuanaco culture (Zuidema, MS to be published) that flourished
around Lake Titicaca some thousand years before the Spanish conquest.
Finally then, the model was of great importance to the calendar
system of both Inca and Tiahuanaco culture.
To resumé, we have good data on the existence of the model in the
southern Andes area from the Vllth century up to the middle of
the XVIIth century. Garcilaso de la Vega (1609) was of the royal
Inca line of Cuzco. Perez Bocanegra (1631) presents the model as
the kinship system of the community of Andahuaylillas near Cuzco.
Pachacuti Yamqui (1613), although writing of the Incas of Cuzco, was
cacique of a town half-way between Cuzco and Lake Titicaca and had
Aymara as his native tongue, which language is still spoken around
Lake Titicaca. He gives us the model twice, in both its social and
cosmological applications, just as the chronicler Felipe Guaman Poma
de Ayala (who wrote between the years 1584 and 1614). The latter
writes on the basis of his knowledge of the indigenous culture of the
present-day department of Ayacucho, where the communities of Huar-
caya and Sarhua are found. Finally, the model can be recognised in
the art of Tiahuanaco, in the Inca ancestor system and in their
calendar system.
The model forms the basis and the point of departure for any theo-
retical study of social and religious organizations in the southern Andes
region of Peru until the middle of the XVIIth century. The system of
ceques which we studied in Cuzco turns out to be simply an elaboration
of it. Even so, according to the chroniclers, every town and village had
its own system of ceques, and in Huarcaya an elemental form of it
can be recognised. If then Sefiora Chaqiri describes the same model
in speaking of God and the four male companions at His right and
the four female ones at His left, we must suppose that the model is
still important in her society.
30 R. T. ZUIDEMA AND U. QUISPE M.
By the same token, the five fields through which the Senora passed
represent an ancient concept. She mentions that she was going uphill,
and the fact that the first field was the most watered and the last the
driest serves to express this idea. Now the diagram of Pachacuti
Yamqui contains one detail that can be compared with these fields.
In the first place it is necessary to point out that, according to him,
the diagram explained how the different gods were placed in the Temple
of the Sun in Cuzco, i.e., his diagram represented the temple. Besides
the already mentioned details, the lower part contains something that
looks like a type of grid with the word 'pata' (queehua) added. This
word is employed for 'anden' (terrace used for agriculture on the flanks
of hills) and it seems that there he wished to draw attention to a system
of andenes, i.e. a series of platforms of differing heights. These plat-
forms can be compared to the five fields: the field of flowers, the
village of thorns, the village of dogs, the Qiqapampa and the desert
through which our informant passed on her ascent to God.
Nevertheless, we could ask why she describes the third field as a village
of dogs and not by its geographic characteristics. Is there an explanation
of why she describes exactly five fields (no more, no less), with the
village of dogs on the third? We shall take the last question first.
Systems of terraces, often constructed in places that defy economie
explanation, also expressed in Inca culture a religieus concept which
was that of the pyramid. The pyramid as a construction was more
important to the people on the coast than it was to those of the high-
lands. However, for the highland people the concept of pyramid was
probably just as important in the sense that they transformed the
mountains into pyramids by means of terraces. They also constructed
artificial pyramids called ushnu, though these are not noteworthy for
their size. The ushnu of Vilcas Huaman (an old Inca capital some
60 kms from Huarcaya) is the best example of these. Poma de Ayala
gives us various drawings of ushnus, including the one at Vilcas
Huaman, and they always consist of five levels. This particular number
of Ievel9 would be the best reason to compare Senora Chaqiri's descrip-
tion of the mountain with 5 levels and the church on top to the pyramid.
This conclusion is corroborated by the fact that according to the
chroniclers the temples of the Sun were also constructed on top of
pyramids or on top of hills, which were transformed into pyramids
by terraces (the most important example of these being the socalled
"fortress" of Cuzco, Sacsahuaman, which was in reality intended as
another temple of the Sun).
A VISIT TO GOD. 31
But there are other reasons for our conclusion and here we have
to answer why the village of dogs — of which first she said there were
many but later specified four black ones and four coffee-coloured
ones — was situated on the third level. First it must be pointed out
that although she describes her journey as out of this world — through
a blueish medium, as she puts it — in reality she describes the different
vegetational conditions that one encounters when climbing from a hot
river valley up to the cold heights of the mountains (punas). In the
present-day native religion the tawafiawi dogs are the guardians of
the land of the dead ancestors, i.e. of the Kingdom of God and the
Saints. Moreover, it is believed that one should treat one's dogs kindly,
since once dead they can help their former owner on his journey to
the land of the dead. In many of the pre-Spanish graves dogs were
mummified and buried with people, possibly as guides to the land
of the dead. The ancient Huancas believed they were descended from
dogs. For these reasons we believe that the village of dogs in the story
replaced in the supernatural world a village of people, perhaps even
Huarcaya or Tomanga themselves. In reality, our informant is quite
clear on this point, since when she describes Qiqapampa, the field
after the tawafiawi, she says it is like the entrance to Ayacucho from
the mountains, thus comparing this city here on earth with the village
of dogs in the Kingdom of God. Moreover, the communities in the
region of the River Pampas are usually situated half-way up from
the river to the puna, and this itself might have influenced the origin
of the concept of the five levels and the village of the dogs between
them. But there is something more fundamental in this.
The chronicler Cabello Valboa mentions as another name for ushnu
(pyramid): 'chuqui pillaca'. Chuqui is lance, and as to pillaca Holguin
(1608) says: 'Pillaca llayta, llautu (ribbon) of two colors woven in
counter fashion, purple and black'. Now in his book 'Tihuanacu'
Posnansky reproduces the design on an Inca k'ero (a wooden tumbler)
of an ushnu in colors and of an Inca with all his royal insignia. The
pyramid has six levels. Placed on the uppermost level is a lance
adorned with two ribbons, one purple and one black. The same lances,
also with the ribbons, are found on the four corners of the third level
of the pyramid. The Inca carried a lance similar to this as a symbol of
his dignity. We know that the Inca was seated on top of the ushnu
when he dispensed justice (in Vilcas Huaman his seat is still there as
described by Cieza de Leon), and thus seated he is depicted by Poma
de Ayala. The Inca then occupied the position in the social order that
32 R. T. ZUIDEMA AND U. QUISPE M.
mountain
Fig. 1.
Pyramid type 'A' according to a plastic plan of R. Schaedel.
A VISIT TO GOD. 33
on a sixth level, and thus we must suppose that, in the ushnu of Vilcas
Huaman and in the drawings of Poma de Ayala, the seat of the; Inca,
in reality, represented the sixth level.
In relation to these special ideas about the third level — in Senora Chaqiri's
account and in Inca culture — we wish to observe that Paul Kosok, in his book
Life, Land and Water in Ancient Peru gives us a model of a pyramid called
'Huaca de los Chinos' of the coastal Tiahuanaco culture in the valley of Moche.
It is constructed against a hill with a series of platforms, and consists of six
levels with eight houses on the third, four on each side of the stairway that
climbs up to the last platform at the top. In Senora Chaqiri's experience there
are equally four dogs on each side of the path on the third level. (Fig. 1)
If it is possible to relate the village of the tawafiawi dogs to pre-
Spanish concepts concerning the third level of a pyramid, what can
be said then about the other fields — or levels — through which she
passed? First let us consider the field of flowers. According to an
informant in Ayacucho who lived some years in Huarcaya, children
who have died go to a garden 'wayta huerta' (flower garden). There
the little boys water the flowers and the little girls sweep and clean the
garden. In Ayacucho, when a little girl died they used to put a little
broom in her coffin so that she could sweep the garden. The field of
flowers is related to children, thus making a generational distinction
between them and older people who were related to other fields or levels.
The field of thorns in the story is described by the same informant
as a place on the road towards God. The road to Heaven is dangerous
while the road to Heil is pleasant and free of dangers.
This idea could belong to Christian beliefs where it is said that the road to Heil
is broad and that to Heaven narrow. But it is not said that the last road zig-zags
and there seems to exist a pre-Spanish tradition about this concept of the two
roads: the straight and the zig-zag- one. We would like to remind the reader
here of the form of the pyramid of Panamarca of the north coast culture of Moche.
Although this culture is older than the influence there of Tiahuanaco, it is
contemporary with the classic Tiahuanaco period. The pyramid has six levels,
the last of which is hardly visible. A stairway zig-zags up to the top. The
pyramid is constructed around a rectangular room as high as its base to which
goes a straight and horizontal path. If the top could represent the Upperworld
— Hananpacha in Inca religion — and the room the Underworld — Ukupacha —
then we find here the same idea as that expressed by the informant of Ayacucho.
This would mean, however, that Senora Chaqiri, in whose version it is the road
to Heil that zig-zags up from the church of God has confused this idea. (Fig. 2)
H«rth-Urré
Fig. 2.
The pyramid of Panamarca.
pre-Spanish origin. Further up there are pastures. Overlooking the
village there is a rocky cliff called Tomanqasa on which another series
of ancient terraces is found with the extensive and well preserved
ruins of a pre-Spanish town. Between the modern and the ancient
town are many caves with, behind walls, bones and mummies of people
who were probably the ancestors of the present-day inhabitants of
Tomanga. Now firstly our informant speaks of Qiqamachay instead
of Qiqapampa. Machay, according to Holguin, are the caves where
the dead are entombed. Comparing then the village of the dogs with
Tomanga, Qiqapampa (or Qiqamachay) is situated at the altitude of the
caves. This conclusion is confirmed through the comparison of the desert
at the fifth level to the ruins of Tomanqasa, which is the town of the
ancestors of modern Tomanga. In other parts of Peru the concept
of desert is also related to ruins. Finally, the church with God can be
equated with the Temple of the Sun.
More important than these explanations about the five fields is,
however, the phenomenon that our story preserves integrally the old
concept of the structure formed around these five fields. We have not
contended ourselves with comparing odd data; on the contrary, we
have shown that the whole story, with the fields and with the church,
A VISIT TO GOD. 35
son A C D Ö daughter
(each within his or her own lineage) as 'little son' and 'Little daughter'.
Quispe and Catacora found a similar datum in Huarcaya. There a
certain old lady addressed a baby, who was a distant relative of hers,
as 'husband', and on another occasion a little girl said 'husband' to an
old man. In both cases, the ancestor in common was the great-great-
grandparent of the younger person and the parent of the elder.
Another organization that might have been the model for the
representation. of God with His four male and four female companions,
is the system of varayuq (functionaries of the communities within the
system of 'cargos') with the alcalde de vara (chief of the varayuq)
called Taytamama 'father-mother' of the others, these latter dividing
into four regidores and four alguaciles. Their distinction is the vara
(Spanish for staff). In special ceremonies they use the alta vara, a very
long and straight branch, with its bark stripped off and painted with
ribbons in the colours purple and black. These were also the colours
of the ribbons painted on the lances found on the Inca ushnu. So it
results that the eight varayuq represent the community — just as the
four black dogs and the four coffee-colored ones in the account of
Sefiora Chaqiri, or as the four lances on the Inca ushnu represent the
community. The alcalde de vara, the father-mother, is then comparable
to God or to the king in the Inca organization. But perhaps the
organization of the varayuq in Sarhua, where there are two organi-
zations, one for each ayllu, and each assigned a set position in respect
to the other in the church or out of it, would be a better example.
Perhaps we should look for the Sefiora Chaqiri's pattern in the
interna! organization of the church as well, of which we have a good
example in Sarhua. In this church the altar, dedicated to God, from
which the priest celebrates mass, is in the centre of one end of the
church and on the right there are the chapels and pictures of the male
Saints and of Jesus Christ, and at the left are those of the Virgin and
the female Saints. In this way it appears like the Church of God and
His companions in her account. However, we have as yet only found
this order in Sarhua.
We have mentioned here some facts of the modern culture in
Huarcaya and Sarhua. Their kinship and political systems still preserve
traces of the old Inca ones. The organization of the church of God
could be related to the one in Sarhua. Also the idea of ushnu still
exists, although it now refers more specifically to the bones and other
remains of the "gentiles", the pre-Spanish ancestors, which are found
in the caves and on the terraces and are said to be the cause of a special
A VISIT TO GOD. 37
kind of illness if one touches them. But in another village near Ayacucho
ushnu refers to a heap of stones, i.e. the most elemental form of a
pyramid.
We recognise that there is still a great amount to be discovered about
the native kinship system, the social and political systerns, and religion.
The text that we studied can serve us as a guide, indicating what to
look for and where. The mere description of a religious model essentially
the same as an Inca one shows us that the social and cultural f acts
in which it is based still exist and that we can find them.
December, 1966.
Universidad de Huamanga, Ayacucho.
APPENDIX
Quechua text:
Taytay recién casada kachkaptillayraqmi hatun gripe hapiruwarqa, hinaptinmi
chaywan unqurani; unquraniku kimsa iskay qari huk warmi; hinaptinmi chay
qari kaqkunataqa iskayninta aparun chay gripe, nuqa kaqtanataq libraykuwan
taytacha.
Kayna punusqaymantatn, punuq hinalla — imaya riki kampas yachakunichu —
pasaruni — mana imayna kasqayta yachakunichu —, chay punuq hinalla pasa-
ruptiymi, kayna nachkaptiy, kaynapi pusaqniykuna sayachkasqa, hinaptinmi chay
punuq hinalla pasaruptiymi pasachiwan; fiawpaqniyta "blanco" qipayta "chiqchi"
habitoyuq, habitoyuq kaq chusiq hormoyniyuq; habitonkupas cordonninkupas
taytay chaynam pasachiwan; chawpitam pasaniqa azul-azul niqta taytay wayta
huertamanta qallaykuniku, chay wayta huertata pasaruni hinaspaiiataqmi, kichka
llaqtatanataq, kichkatanataq, chay kichkata pasaruni nakayta hinaptinmi kaynapi
suma-sumaq chuya cielo (?) altoman suma-sumaq tendido kasqa, chayman pasay-
kachiwan hinaptinmi kayna nampa hawampi yana tawa nawi chocola, hina fiampa
urampinataqmi chocolakuna — chay allqukuna taytaly kachkasqa — hinaptinmi
rimariymanchiki niptiy manam upallachallam pasarunsu, si rimarinki hinaptinqa
tukuruwachuwanmi nispa niwanku. Manaiiataq ichiyta atichkanifiataqchu kayna
rupaypi; manana ichiyta atiptiy apuramuy niwan, chaynam taytay chay llaqtata
pasaruniku -chay allqukunamanta escapararuniku-; pasaniku hinaptinmi l kay
qiqa machay ? Huamangapa hanaynin qiqa pampa kachkan chaynaman pasaykuniku,
putyata paykunaqa alaireya richkan iiuqaqa manaya ichiytapas atichkaniiiachu
rupaypi — ukuytaqa rupachkan yanqataflataq —, hinaspaqa qallaykuniku aquta-
nataq, aqupiqa cenegayllam cenegani, chay cenegaptiy chakiytafiataq pusllurun,
yanqanam nini taytallay akachawya nispay. Chay aquta pasaruptiyqa kamas
iglesiallamanna pasaykachiwan; iglesiaqa waknaya altopi hina kachkan; chawpi-
tama richkaniqa; iglesia chawpitana richkaspaymi infiernotaqa rikuruni, hinaptinmi
kayna rirurani rirurani hina qispiqa infiernomanqa, chay richkaptiykum pusaqniy-
kunataqa apuramuy nispa nimun taytallanchik kikin taytallanchik; suma-sumaq
quri barbayuq, suma-sumaq qullqi quri bastinniyuq seiiorqa tiyachkasqa kamas
38 R. T. ZUIDEMA AND U. QUISPE M.
LITERATURE
Cabello Valboa, Miguel
1951 Miscelanea Antartica (1586). Ed. Instituto de Etnologia, Facultad de
Letras, Universidad Nacional Mayor de San Marcos, Lima.
Cieza de Leon, Pedro de
1945 La crónica del Peru (1551). Colección Austral, Buenos Aires.
Garcilaso de la Vega (El Inca)
1945 Comentarios Reales de los Incas (1609). Ed. Angel Rosenblatt. 2nd
Edition. Buenos Aires.
Gonzalez Holguin, Diego
1608 Vocabulario de la lengua general de todo el Peru llamada lengua Quichua,
o del Inca. Lima.
Koscik, Paul
1965 Life, Land and Water in Ancient Peru. Long Island University Press,
New York.
Pachacuti Yamqui, Joan de Santacruz
1950 Tres relaciones de antigüedades peruanas ( ± 1613), pp. 207-281. Asunción
del Paraguay.
Perez Bocanegra, Juan
1631 Ritual formulario; e institucion de Cura, para administrar a los naturales
de este Reyno, etc. Lima.
A VISIT TO GOD. 39