Different Form of Textile Dyeing with its advantage & disadvantage?

DYEING

Dyeing is the process of imparting colours to a textile material in loose fibre, yarn, cloth or
garment form by treatment with a dye.

HISTORY

Early evidence of dyeing comes from India where a piece of cotton dyed with a vegetable dye
has been recovered from the archaeological site at Mohenjo-daro (3rd millennium BCE). The
dye used in this case was madder, which, along with other dyes—such as Indigo—was
introduced to other regions through trade. Contact with Alexander the Great, who had
successfully used dyeing for military camouflage, may have further helped aid the spread of
dyeing from India.

DYE TYPES

For most of the thousands of years in which dyeing has been used by humans to decorate
clothing, or fabrics for other uses, the primary source of dye has been nature, with the dyes being
extracted from animals or plants. In the last 150 years, man has produced artificial dyes to
achieve a broader range of colors, and to render the dyes more stable to resist washing and
general use. Different classes of dye are used for different types of fiber and at different stages of
the textile production process from loose fibers through yarn and cloth to completed garments.

Acrylic fibers are dyed with basic dyes, nylon and protein fibers such as wool and silk are dyed
with acid dyes, polyester yarn is dyed with disperse dyes. Cotton is dyed with a range of dye
types including vat dyes which are similar to the ancient natural dyes and modern synthetic
reactive and direct dyes.

PURPOSE OF DYEING

Dyeing can be done during any stage in the manufacture of textile product. Textiles may be dyed
as fiber, as yarn, as fabric, or as garments, depending on the type of fabric or garment produced.
Description of various stages and the reasons for their uses are given in the following sections.
Dyeing will occur in the most efficient stage which will meet the requirements of the intended
end uses.

VARIOUS STAGES OF DYEING

The various stages of dyeing are as under:

i) STOCK AND TOP DYEING

 ii) YARN DYEING

iii) PIECE DYEING

iv) GARMENT DYEING

STOCK AND TOP DYEING

Stock dyeing refers to the dyeing of fibers, or stock, before it is spun into
yarn. It is done by putting loose, un-spun fibers into large vats containing
the dye bath, which is less then heated to proper temperature. From 500
to 3000 pounds (227 to 1364 kilograms) of fiber are dyed at one time,
and the average is about 1000 pounds (454 kilograms).

Top dyeing is also the dyeing of fiber before it is spun into yarn and
serves the same purpose as stock dyeing-that is, to produce soft,
heather=like colour effects. The term top refers to fibers of wool from
which shorter fibers have been removed. Top is thus the select long fibers
that are used to spin worsted yarn.The top in the form of silver is dyed
and then blended with other colours of dyed top to produce desired
blended heather shades.

FEATURES AND ADVANTAGES

 Fabrics have soft, heather –like colouration.

 Easiest dye penetration.

LIMITATIONS AND DISADVANTAGES

 Most costly dyeing method.

 Dyeing long before season begins carries risk of fashion changing.

 High percentage of fiber loss from dyeing and later yarn spinning.

TYPICAL DYED FABRICS

 Cheviot

 Covert

 Melton

 Tweed
YARN DYEING

Yarn dyeing, as its name implies, is the dyeing of yarns before they have woven or the knitted
into fabrics. The main reason for the dyeing of yarn is for the ultimate production of multi
coloured designs such as plaids, stripes, and checks. Some typical yarn-dyed fabrics are multi
coloured gingham, madras, brocade, and multi coloured weft knits. Yarn dyeing ia also used in
special cases for solid-colour fabrics. Yarns may be dyed in different forms:

 Skeins

 Packages

 Beams

FEATURES AND ADVANTAGES

 Used for fabrics with stripes, checks, plaids, and other multi-coloured patterns.

LIMITATIONS AND DISADVANTAGES

 Second most costly dyeing method

 Dyeing before season begins carries risk of fashion changing, but less than or stock dye.

TYPICAL DYED FABRICS

 Chambray

 Gingham

 Brocade

 Jacquard knits

SKEIN DYEING

Skein dyeing consists of immersing large, loosely wound hanks (skeins) of yarn into dye vats
that are especially designed for this purpose. Soft, lofty yarns, such as hand knitting yarns, are
usually skein dyed. Skein dyeing is the most costly yarn-dye method.

PACKAGE DYEING
In package dyeing, yarn is wound on a small perforated spool or tube called a package. Many
spools fit into the dyeing machine in which the flow of the dye bath alternates from the center to
outside, and then from outside to the center of the package.

BEAM DYEING

Beam dyeing is a much larger version of package dyeing. An entire warp beam is wound onto a
perforated cylinder, which is then placed in the beam dyeing machine, where the flow of the dye
bath alternates as in package dyeing.

PIECE DYEING

The dyeing of cloth after it has been woven or knitted is known as piece dyeing. It is the most
common method of dyeing used. The various methods used for this type of dyeing include :

 Jet dyeing
 Jig dyeing
 Pad dyeing
 Beam dyeing

When heavy or densely woven fabrics, or tightly twisted yarn fabrics, are pieced dyed,
sometimes the dye does not penetrate into the centre of the yarn material. The condition, known
simply as poor penetration, leaves the fibers in the center of the yarn, or at fabric interlacing,
lightly coloured or un-dyed. It can be recognized by taking some yarns out of the fabric,
untwisting them, and observing the non uniform colour of fibers in the twisted yarn. There is no
problem with inghowever, fabrics such as uniform clothing, children’s wear, upholstery fabrics,
and other fabrics subjected to hard use take on a faded appearance at points of wear, and white,
un-dyed fibers shift towards the fabric surface. For this reason, many high-quality, heavy-weight,
and densely woven fabrics, especially furniture though more costly, eliminates the problem of
poor dye penetration.

FEATURES AND ADVANTAGES

 Least costly stage for dyeing of fabrics.

  Adaptable to all fabrics – woven and knitted.
 Dyeing is close to fashion season; minimal colour risk.

LIMITATIONS AND DISADVANTAGES

 Limited to solid colours(except for cross-dye).

TYPICAL DYED FABRICS

 Batiste
 Broadcloth
 Challis
 Corduroy
 Satin

JET DYEING

In the jet dying process, the fabric being dyed is circulated in a rope form through a closed-
system dyeing machine on a jet flow of the dye bath. The fabric is moved by the fast moving dye
bath. Since no pressure and little tension occurs with the material, even delicate fabrics can be
dyed using this process. Most jet dyeing machines can be pressurized and are capable of
achieving dyeing temperatures exceeding the boiling point of water.

JIG DYEING

The jig dyeing process involves treating fabric in an open width. Fabric is not immersed in a dye
bath, but rather is passed through a stationery dye bath. Upon completion of the first pass, the
fabric reverses and is passed again through the dye bath. To produce darker colours the fabric
must pass through the dye bath more times than when a lighter shade is desired.

PAD DYEING

Pad dyeing is accomplished with a machine called a dye pad. Its appearance somewhat
resembles a giant clothes wringer. Fabric in open width first passes through the dye bath, and
then through the rollers where the dye solution is squeezed into the fabric.

BEAM DYEING

Beam dyeing for piece dyeing is practically identical to beam dyeing used for yarns. Fabric is
wound on to a perforated cylinder where the dye bath is forced through the fabric layers. The
fabric remains stationery.

GARMENT DYEING

Garment dyeing is the dyeing of completed garments. The types of apparel that can be dyed are
mostly non tailored and simpler forms, such as sweaters, sweat-shirts, T-shirts, hosiery, and
pantyhose. The effect on sizing , threads, zippers and snaps must be considered. Tailored items,
such as suits or dresses, cannot be dyed as garments because the difference in shrinkage of the
various components and linings distort and misshape the article.

Garment dyeing is done by placing a suitable number of garments (usually about 24 sweaters or
the equivalent, depending on weight) into a large nylon net bag. The garments are loosely
packed. From 10 to 50 of the bags are placed in large tubs containing the dye bath and are kept
agitated by a motor-driven paddle in the dye tub. The machine is appropriately called a paddle
dyer.

FEATURES AND ADVANTAGES

 Choice of colours closet to fashion season.

 Elimination of material (yarn and fabric) waste from prior processing.

LIMITATIONS AND DISADVANTAGES

 Limited to garments of simple construction.

TYPICAL DYED FABRICS

 Hoisery
 Pantyhose
 Sweaters
 T-shirts etc.