Documenti di Didattica
Documenti di Professioni
Documenti di Cultura
Manufacturing Process
Resources People
Fabric storage Cutting manager
Equipments
Cutting master
storage
Assistants ‐
Tables
spreaders
COSTS
The cutting room has a greater effect
on excessive manufacturing costs than
any other department concerned with
the actual production of garments.
COSTS
9 Internal costs – those incurred in the cutting
room itself (spreading, cutting, bundling,
ticketing)
• Material : 50% to 70% of the cost price of
most of the mass produced clothing and
largest cost component of a garment
• Efficiency
The factors influencing materials utilization
Pattern accuracy
Marker waste
Spreading waste
External costs
9Defects
9Matching
9Accuracy in sewing
9Quality
Cutting room flow process
Cutting room flow process
9Planning
9Spreading
9Cutting
9Preparation for sewing
Cutting room flow process
Spreads
Markers
Planning
Production
Manual
Spreading
Machine
Machine
Die Press
Cutting
Computer
Ticketing
Preparation
for sewing
Bundles
Cut order planning
9 It translates customer orders into cutting orders
9 minimize total production costs
9 meet deadlines
9 seek most effective use of labor, equipment,
fabric and space
Responsibilities of Cut Order Planning
9 Examining incoming orders and piece goods width
and availability
9 Determining volume, size ratios, and sectioning
procedures for marker making
9 Determining whether file markers are available or
new ones are needed
Responsibilities of Cut Order Planning
9 Developing specifications for optimum marker
making and fabric utilization
9 Determine most effective use of spreading and
cutting equipment and personnel
9 Issuing orders for marker making, spreading and
cutting
Most common considerations
1) Number of sizes in order
2) Number of colors in order
3) Max/min number of sizes allowed in marker
4) Maximum spread length
5) Maximum ply height
6) Percentage of overcut or undercut units
7) Fabric cost per yard
8) Usable cloth width
9) Width variation
10) Common lines among pattern pieces
11) Costs of marking markers, spreading, cutting, bundling
12) Fabric roll change time
Results of
Cut Order Planning
Cutting Orders
Leads to
Marker planning Lay planning
Marker Planning – Modes &
Methods
Marker planning
9 is to determine the most efficient combination of
sizes and shades for each order and to produce the
best fabric yield and equipment utilization
Lay
9 is a stack of fabric plies that have been prepared for
cutting
Lay planning
9 is the basis of managing cutting room labor and table
space
Marker Making
Marker
9 is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern
pieces for a specific style and the sizes to be cut
from a single spread.
Marker Making
9 is the process of determining the most efficient
layout of pattern pieces for a specified style,
fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires time,
skill and concentration)
Marker
Ch. 13 of Glock & Kunj
Ch. 1 of Carr & Lantham
What is a marker making?
• Marker plan‐The cutting template representing
all of the individual components of a garment laid
together in such a way that they fit within the
confines of the fabric width as closely and
efficiently as possible, in order to minimize
waste.
• Marker utilization‐drawing the marker plan
directly on the fabric or on paper. The provision
should be made to use the marker many times.
Paper marker would be destroyed after one
cutting.
Use and importance of a marker.
• Reduction of fabric wastage.
• Directional properties of the fabric like thread
directions, pattern direction, grain of nap or pile.
Matching of stripes , checks and designs.
– Nonwovens fabric for which neither the orientation
nor the direction is important.
– Cretonne for which the orientation is important but
the templates may be laid in either direction e.g.
lining and laminated fabrics.
– Corduroy fabric in which orientation and direction are
both imporatant e.g. pile fabrics, fabric with
directional pattern or pile , knitted fabric.
Pattern matching
• Quality depend on accuracy of pattern matching.
Checks and stripes have high consumption and take
much time. The coloring the repeat size and
prominence of pattern as degree of matching required
determine cost and difficulty in making the lay plan.
• During spreading, it is necessary to match the pattern
exactly at each end of he lay and in every ply.
• Cutting may be carried out wit preliminary rough cut
and than more precise cutting after matching the
pattern
• In this lay plan purpose is to achieve the required
matching so cutting wastage can not be minimized.
Pattern matching
• Features of accurate pattern
matching:‐
– Symmetry‐the patterns must be
symmetrical about the central axis. Front
panel, collars and backs.
– Lengthwise continuity‐the pattern must
not be interrupted or displaces at the
horizontal seams . Pockets.
– Horizontal continuity‐ the pattern must
not be interrupted or displaced at vertical
seams or across adjacent parts. Arms and
front panel.
– Overall continuity‐ the form and the
repeat of the pattern must be maintained
across all seams , facing, trimmings,
patchesetc. Patch pockets, flaps, darts,
and facing.
The requirement of marker planning
• The nature of the fabric and the desired result in
the finished garment
– Pattern alignment in relation to the grain of the fabric
– Symmetry and asymmetry
– The design characteristic of the finished garment
• The requirement of quality in cutting
– Freedom of knife movement
– Pattern count for a complete garment
– Correct labeling of a cut garment parts
• The requirement of production planning
– Length of marker and efficiency
Efficiency of the marker plan
• Since the reduction of fabric cost is important
so the efficiency of marker is important.
• Formula
• Area of patterns in the marker plan X100%
Total area of the marker plan
Making a marker
• Manual method‐
– Simplest method
– All the templates are arranged manually
– The outlines are then traced on fabric or paper
– The detailed arrangement of the templates is
decided by the experience and know hoe or by
following a small–scale printed diagram.
Computerized systems
• Computerized systems
– After grading the computer can be used to produce the lay plan and the
cutting marker.
– User friendly system allows the recall and arrangement of the patterns on the
monitor screen.
– Individual pieces can be moved around the screen to produce an optimized
layout.
– The more sophisticated programs will make the lay automatically according to
predetermined criteria.
– The advanced systems will calculate material utilization and cutting waste and
make lay plan accordingly.
– The finished lay plan is store din computer. It can be recalled and drawn out
as a miniature plan at any time. When required the cutting marker can be
drawn at a plotter in full scale.
– With most modern technology , it is not necessary to make a physical cutting
marker. The cutting instructions are send online to a fully automatic cutting
and spreading machine.
Types of marker (Single size lay)
1. Half garment lay‐ include only half garment
pieces and are cut on tubular or folded fabric.
2. Whole garment lay‐all the garment pieces, left
and right sides, are included in the lay. Used on
open width fabric.
3. Single size lay‐ the lay include all of the pieces
for a single size. Restricting the lay to a single
size makes order planning and laying up the
fabric easier, but the disadvantage is higher
material consumption, compared to multi‐size
lays.
Types of marker (Multi‐size lay)
4. Sectional lay‐ the lay is at least two distinct rectangular
sections. Each section contains all the parts for a single
size. Adjacent sections may be the same or a different
size.
5. Interlocking lay‐two or more sections, one after the other,
usually different sizes, but the sections are not confined
to strict rectangular areas; the pieces for the different
sections may merge at the borders.
6. Mixed multi‐size lay‐ in this case there are no distinct
sections , the pieces for the two or more different
garments sizes are intermingled. This is the arrangement
which normally gives the best material utilisation.
Marker Making
Computerized marker
Manually produced
making (CAD)
Sectional Marker & Stepped Lay
Markers are of two types:
a. Blocks or Sections
b.Continuous
Dimensions of marker
9Continuous markers contain all the pattern
pieces for all sizes included in a single
cutting
a. Sectioned or Blocked Marker
A STEPPED SPREAD
¾plies of varied length, spread at different heights
¾used to adjust the quantity of piece goods to the number of garments
to be cut from each section of the marker
¾Sections may be joined to form multi‐size marker
¾Pattern parts of one size in close proximity
¾Advantageous when there is end‐to‐end shade variations
b. Continuous Marker
¾Contain all pattern pieces for all sizes included in a single cutting
¾Pattern pieces are grouped by size and shape of the pieces rather
than by garment size
¾Better utilization because more flexibility in grouping and
manoeuvring large pieces and small pieces
Types of Markers
9 tubular fabric
9 symmetric garment/pattern part
9 the pattern parts are folded in half in their length
9 half‐patterns are placed where the pattern fold is
superimposed over the fabric’s folded edge
9 when this pattern is cut, the result is a full body
part
Closed Marker
Marker Modes
Marker Modes
Is determined by the symmetry and directionality
of fabric
9Nap either way (N/E/W)
9Nap one way (N/O/W)
9Nap up and down (N/U/D)
The term Nap is used to indicate the fabric is
directional.
N/E/W –with symmetric, non directional fabrics,
pattern pieces can be placed on a marker with only
consideration for grain line
N/O/W – all the pattern pieces be placed on a marker
in only one direction, e.g. horse print
N/U/D – all pattern pieces of one size to be placed in
one direction and another size placed in opposite
direction. eg. corduroy
Requirements of Marker Planning
1. Nature of the fabric and the desired result in the
finished garment
– Pattern alignment in relation to the grain of
the fabric (pocketing fabric)
– Symmetry and asymmetry (velvet, cord)
– The design characteristic of the finished
garment (mitering, print placement, etc.)
2. The requirements of cutting quality
3. The requirements of production planning
Plotting
The process of drawing or printing pattern
pieces or markers on paper so they can be
reviewed or cut.
Patterns/graded nests.
Bottleneck ‐ when lot of copies required
Manual marker
Created on marker paper or directly on fabric ply
Tracing by pencil or tailor’s chalk.
Time consuming.
Subject to errors. (pattern overlap, grain line,
poor line definition, omission of pcs.)
Accuracy depends on individual’s skill.
Computerised marker
Accurate
Shortest response time.
Direct or digitized.
Manipulate images to determine best utilization.
No overlapping/no omissions
Parameters (style #,size, etc.) for markers are
entered into the computer.
Computerised marker
Can be printed/recalled/modified.
Criteria can be set by technician. Can be used to
determine fabric requirement.
A 50‐pc marker takes less than 1 minute!!!
Miniature marker
Marker Efficiency
Marker Efficiency
Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100%
Total area of the marker plan
9It is determined for fabric utilization
9Minimum waste
Marker Efficiency
Factors affecting marker
efficiency
9 Fabric characteristics
9 Shape of Pattern pieces
9 Grain requirements
Marker Efficiency
Fabric characteristics
Lengthwise directionality
Crosswise symmetry
Need for matching the fabric design.
Length of design repeat.
Fabric width.
Marker Efficiency
Shapes of pattern pieces
Markers containing large and small pcs.
The shape of pattern pcs.
Large pcs – less flexibility.
Marker Efficiency
Shapes of pattern pieces
Patterns are sometimes modified to increase efficiency:
split pattern pieces and create a seam
reduce seam allowances and/or hem width
adjust and modify grain‐line
rounding or slanting corners
Marker Efficiency
Shapes of pattern pieces
Patterns are sometimes modified to increase efficiency:
Adjusting pattern dimensions w/o noticeable
change to fit & style
Adjusting grain lines for hidden garment parts
Modifying grain lines specified by the designer
Spreading – Modes & Methods
Spreading – Modes & Methods
Spreading
Spread or lay
total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker
Spreading mode
Spreading mode is the manner in which fabric plies are laid
out for cutting
Direction of the fabric:
9 it may be positioned in two ways face‐to‐face
(F/F) or with all plies facing‐one‐way (F/O/W)
Direction of the Fabric Nap:
9 it may be positioned nap‐one‐way (N/O/W) or
nap‐up‐down
Spreading modes
F/O/W
N/O/W
F/F
N/O/W
F/F
N/U/D
F/O/W
N/U/D
Requirements of Spreading process
9 Shade sorting of cloth pieces
9 Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability
9 Alignment of plies
9 Correct ply tension
9 Elimination of fabric faults
9 Elimination of static electricity
9 Avoidance of distortion in the spread
9 Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting
Setup for spreading
9 Verifying cutting orders
9 Positioning materials
9 Preparing cutting tables
9 Preparing machines
9 Loading machine
Reloading and delay time may use up to 70% of
the time required for the entire spreading
operation
Methods of spreading
9Spreading by hand
9Spreading using a travelling machine
(100 to 150 yards per minute)