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kloss

MEET THE WOMAN BEHIND TINDER & BUMBLE


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APRIL 2017
COVER
Saint Laurent by Anthony
Vaccarello dress and
earrings. Cartier ring.
Make-up from L’Oréal,
starting with Nude
Magique Cushion
Foundation in Beige;
on cheeks, Infallible
Sculpt Blush in Nude and
True Match Highlight
Illuminating Powder in
Golden Glow; on eyes,
Colour Riche Eyeshadow
Quad in Forever Bronze;
on lips, Colour Riche
Lipstick in Beige A Nu.
Fashion editor:
Christine Centenera
Photographer:
Benny Horne
Hair: Sophie Roberts
VOL LXII No 4 Whole No 634, Make-up: Kellie Stratton
*RECOMMENDED PRICE Manicure: Jocelyn Petroni
Artwork: Anthony Lister
Shot on location at
Bondi Beach.

42 EDITOR’S LETTER
46 VOGUE VOX
50 THIS MONTH ON VOGUE.COM.AU
54 VOGUE VIDEO
58 CONTRIBUTORS
60 VOGUE 180° Milliner Nerida Winter.

VOGUE MOOD
65 YOUTH BEAT When it comes to
our wardrobes, boundless energy
and bold, brave style is universal.
68 Short order; Mini me; Heart & sole;
Super-size me; Fast fix.
72 TOUR DE FORCE With the
Australian Fashion Chamber on a roll,
Vogue celebrates our local talent.
82 GOING SWIMMINGLY Make a
splash as a million-dollar mermaid.
86 CASUAL AFFAIR Rag & Bone has
written a rule book entirely of its own.
90 PARIS NIGHTS With its glamour
and storied history, the Ritz Paris
was the only venue for Chanel’s
homecoming extravaganza.
94 HIT LIST The top 25 high street
pieces to add to your wardrobe.
98 REMOTE ACCESS Launching a
tech start-up in outback Australia.
100 MAKING THE FIRST MOVE Bumble
founder Whitney Wolfe wants to
change the way online dating works.
SEBASTIAN KIM

104 TWISTS & TURNS Zaha Hadid’s


designs are realised in a reinterpretation
of one of Bulgari’s signature rings.

30 APRIL 2017
ARMANI.COM
®

APRIL 2017
FEATURES
178 GIRL TALK In honour of the final
season of Girls, the stars of the show
sit for the ultimate exit interview.
186 IN SEASON A new exhibition
delves into Vincent van Gogh’s
profound connection to nature and its
extraordinary expression on canvas.
192 DISCOVERY CHANNEL Young labels
owe their canny rise to the unmatched,
pulse-raising thrill of a good find.
194 LUCKY CHARM Playing Barack
Obama was a formidable task for young
Australian actor Devon Terrell.
198 LA DOLCE TINA The inimitable
Tina Arena is stronger than ever.
202 GENERATION ANXIETY Millennials
TOUR DE FORCE are the most tech-savvy generation in
human history, and the most anxious.
PAGE 72
VOGUE STYLE
ARTS BEAUTY 205 CLEAR CUT Jeweller Alina Barlow’s
108 COMING UP ROSES Model 133 IS YOUR FACE FIT? News just in: you Sydney home radiates the same light
and musician Karen Elson explains can exercise, knead and massage your elegance as her designs.
why being true to herself has been way to firmer, more youthful-looking skin. 210 EYE CANDY Italian designer Cristina
difficult but necessary. 138 Star power; Trend tracing; Celestino on creating her collection
110 PLATE UP As the World’s 50 Primary cause. of pastel-hued furnishings for Fendi.
Best Restaurant Awards heads to 142 MAN MADE A new crop of unlikely
Australia for the first time, Vogue
investigates the culinary landscape.
beauty enthusiasts is bringing a fresh, VOGUE VOYAGE
and decidedly genderless approach
213 AMERICAN SUMMER From the
to our beauty cabinets.
Southern hotspot of Nashville to idyllic
VOGUE RACES 144 PARTING WAYS Left, right or Aspen, there’s plenty to explore in
115 TURF’S UP! Actress Elizabeth somewhere down the middle – the heartland USA over the warmer months.
Debicki shines in her new role as seemingly simple decision of where
ambassador for the Australian Turf to part your hair makes the world
218 WHERE TO BUY
Club Autumn Racing Carnival. of difference to your look.
219 HOROSCOPES
118 FREE REIN Observing racewear
codes and conventions doesn’t have 224 LAST WORD
to translate to sedate styles.
FASHION
152 JUST ADD WATER Coder,
124 ALL FOR ONE Meet Han Chong,
the man behind Self-Portrait, the
baker, Zeitgeist-maker: model-
turned-mogul Karlie Kloss is the 
SUBSCRIBE TO
go-to occasion-dressing label.
128 TOP NOTCH Exploring an enduring
CEO of her own destiny.
166 DON’T YOU WANT ME, BABY? VOGUE
JAKE TERREY

passion for hats. TURN TO PAGE 112 TO


Synthpop, layered leather, tailored SUBSCRIBE OR RENEW AND
130 A FINAL NOTE Well chosen trench coats and long boots. Cover RECEIVE A BONUS TOTE BAG.
accessories will see you first past the post. up. The new discography.

34 APRIL 2017
OBJECTS FOR LIFE
®

VOGUE.COM.AU
EDWINA McCANN
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF editor@vogue.com.au

Deputy Editor and Features Director SOPHIE TEDMANSON


features@vogue.com.au

Fashion Director CHRISTINE CENTENERA

Creative Director at Large ALISON VENESS

ART art@vogue.com.au
Art Director MANDY ALEX
Senior Designers BEC McDIVEN DIJANA SAVOR Junior Designer ARQUETTE COOKE

FASHION fashion@vogue.com.au
Senior Fashion Editor KATE DARVILL
Fashion Editor and Market Director PHILIPPA MORONEY
Junior Fashion Editor PETTA CHUA Market Editor MONIQUE SANTOS
Fashion Assistant MICHELLE LORETO

BOOKINGS bookings@vogue.com.au
Photography and Casting Director RIKKI KEENE Bookings Editor DANICA OSLAND

FASHION FEATURES vogue@vogue.com.au


Fashion Features and Content Strategy Director ZARA WONG
Fashion Features and News Editor ALICE BIRRELL

BEAUTY beauty@vogue.com.au
Beauty Editor REMY RIPPON
Health Editor at Large JODY SCOTT Beauty Special Projects RICKY ALLEN

COPY copy@vogue.com.au
Travel Editor and Copy Editor MARK SARIBAN
Deputy Copy Editor and Lifestyle Writer CUSHLA CHAUHAN

Arts Writer JANE ALBERT

Editorial Coordinator REBECCA SHALALA

DIGITAL vogue@vogue.com.au
Commercial Digital Editor ERIN WEINGER
Associate Digital Editor LILITH HARDIE LUPICA Assistant Digital Editor DANIELLE GAY

CONTRIBUTORS
ALICE CAVANAGH (Paris) VICTORIA COLLISON (Special Projects Editor) MEG GRAY (Fashion)
PIPPA HOLT (London) NATASHA INCHLEY (Fashion) EMMA STRENNER (Beauty)

EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATION AND RIGHTS


Digital Assets and Rights Manager TRUDY BIERNAT

National Sales and Strategy Director, Style NICOLE WAUDBY (02) 8045 4661.
Heads of Brand Strategy, Style MERRYN DHAMI (02) 9288 1090. JANE SCHOFIELD (02) 8045 4658.
NSW Group Sales Manager CHEYNE HALL (02) 8045 4667.
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Victoria Sales Director, Style KAREN CLEMENTS (03) 9292 3202. Victoria Head of Sales BETHANY SUTTON (03) 9292 1621.
Victoria Group Business Managers NADINE DENISON (03) 9292 3224. SIMONE WERZBERGER (03) 9292 3203.
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Queensland Commercial Director, Lifestyle ROSE WEGNER (07) 3666 6903.
Classiied Advertising REBECCA WHITE 1300 139 305. Asia: KIM KENCHINGTON, Mediaworks Asia. (852) 2882 1106.

Advertising Creative Director RICHARD McAULIFFE Advertising Creative Manager EVA CHOWN
Advertising Creative Producers JENNY HAYES YASMIN SHIMA
Creative Services Senior Art Directors CARYN ISEMANN KRISTYN JENKINS
Advertising Copy Editors ANNETTE FARNSWORTH BROOKE LEWIS ROB BADMAN TIFFANY BARAN

Production Manager MICHELLE O’BRIEN Advertising Production Coordinator GINA JIANG

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Digital Director JULIAN DELANEY Senior Product Manager CASSANDRA ALLARS Product Manager TINA ISHAK
Platform Manager DAVID BERRY Digital Art Director HEIDI BOARDMAN

Marketing Director – Lifestyle DIANA KAY Marketing Manager MELISSA MORPHET Brand Manager MAGDALENA ZAJAC Event Marketing Manager BROOKE KING
Events Manager DANIELLE ISENBERG Marketing Executive RACHEL CHRISTIAN Sponsorship Manager, Style ELLE RITSON
Senior Commercial Manager JOSH MEISNER

Chief Executive Oicer NICOLE SHEFFIELD


Director of Communications SHARYN WHITTEN
General Manager, Network Sales, NSW PAUL BLACKBURN
Prestige and Lifestyle Director NICK SMITH

VOGUE AUSTRALIA magazine is published by NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd (ACN 088 923 906). ISSN 0042-8019. NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd is a wholly owned subsidiary
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Condé Nast Asia Pacific JAMES WOOLHOUSE President JASON MILES Director of Planning

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committed to environmental improvement by using environmental management systems, continuously introducing environmental initiatives
and benchmarking to globally recognised standards and monitoring. Paper fibre is from PEFC-certified forests and controlled sources.

38 APRIL 2017
editor’s LETTER

am writing this from Milan, where I’ve

I just seen the latest Gucci ready-to-wear


collection by genius designer Alessandro
Michele, held in the house’s new show
space on the outskirts of the city. Inside
the venue, giant curtains of the most
beautiful purple hue were lifted to reveal
a raised runway housed in Perspex tubes
on a stage dubbed “the Alchemist’s
Garden: an anti-modern laboratory”.
Michele collaborated with photographer
and artist Coco Capitán to create slogan
T-shirts and the show invitation, which
read: “What are we going to do with all
the future?” Other slogans in Capitán’s
signature sketchy font included “Common
sense is not so common” and “Tomorrow
is now yesterday”. And for his final bow,
Michele wore his and Capitán’s favourite
T-shirt, printed with the words: “I want to
go back to believing a story.”
And so far this season, that is exactly what
fashion is doing with determination:
creating another story of our times in which
acceptance and a healthy dose of fantasy
reign supreme. Now that might all seem
rather fickle, considering the very serious
issues facing the world and the divisive
nature of politics at the moment. But never
underestimate the power of creative minds
to shift the way we think or the power of
determined minds to change our own
minds (for good and sometimes bad).
Our cover star Karlie Kloss is a woman
on many missions. While visiting
Australia recently to walk in the David
Jones show, Karlie took time to collaborate
with us and home-grown graffiti artist
Anthony Lister, who spray-painted the
Vogue masthead above Karlie’s head for
our cover on one of his street-art works at
Bondi Beach.
Karlie wrote to fashion director Christine Centenera and websites, and she is now learning Swift, a language for building
I following the shoot to say how much she had enjoyed the day. apps. She says she feels a responsibility to get girls engaged with
For me, aside from being delightfully polite, she stands for so important skills that can transform their futures, so that they
many things young women can aspire to. may take part in the evolution of industries and participate in
Her work with Kode With Klossy, a movement to encourage how they are being shaped. As Zara Wong notes in her interview:
young women to learn to code and take an interest in technology, “Karlie is the mascot for the smart-girl-done-good.”
is well aligned with our own Vogue Codes initiative. In London, Never underestimate the power of fashion and those in the
the night before the Gucci show, she co-hosted the Fabulous industry to make a real difference, even though sometimes it may
Fund Fair with her friend and fellow philanthropist Natalia have nothing to do with clothes.
Vodianova, the third annual fundraiser in aid of Vodianova’s
Naked Heart Foundation, which raises money for child support
programs in Russia. She also created a range of cookies with New
York’s famed Momofuku Milk Bar with the aim of raising funds
BENNY HORNE

to provide meals for disadvantaged children.


Karlie is a student at New York University and is proficient Edwina McCann
in coding in HTML, CSS and JavaScript, languages that drive Editor-in-chief

42 APRIL 2017
louisvuitton.com

The spirit of travel


The spirit of travel
louisvuitton.com
vogue.com.au MODEL BUSINESS

Karlie Kloss
Watch our exclusive behind-the-scenes video where
model-turned-coding-queen Karlie Kloss takes the
Bondi Rescue team through a lifeguard bootcamp.

Miranda Kerr
launched
skincare range
Kora Organics
in 2009.

Alessandra Ambrosio
models designs from her
own Ále by Alessandra
Ambrosio beachy label.

This month …
Follow Vogue Australia on Facebook, Snapchat,
Instagram, Pinterest, Tumblr and Twitter.

Smudged eyes
at Balmain.

Unexpected
colour at Kenzo.
INSTAGRAM.COM/ ALESSANDRAAMBROSIO/
BRUNALIRIO/MIRANDAKERR/KARLIEKLOSS
JAMES COCHRANE GETTY IMAGES

Follow the music


Head to Vogue.com.au this month for
ALL ABOUT EYES: behind-the-scenes coverage straight
From colour blocking to the best cat’s from California to see what everyone
eyes to inspire you, ready-to-wear is wearing at the most stylish
The new cat’s
spring/summer ’17 was all about the eyes at Fendi. music festival of the year.
eyes and Vogue has your how-tos sorted.

50 APRIL 2017
loewe.com
Sea Green Calf Puzzle with Shell Embroidered Strap and Yellow Tube Braid, 2017 Chadstone Centre, Melbourne
Audi Vorsprung durch Technik
#playful?
#independent?
#sophisticated?

The all-new Audi Q2.


#untaggable
audi.com.au

Limited Edition #1 overseas model with optional equipment shown.


vogue VIDEO

0:39 / 3:32

time
Follow our YouTube
channel Vogue
Australia, home to
exclusive celebrity
interviews, behind-
the-scenes access, 0:58 / 1:01
beauty and fashion
how-tos, and more.

0:46 / 2:27

1:02 / 3:01

54 APRIL 2017
vogue CONTRIBUTORS
KERRIE
MCCALLUM
Kerrie McCallum,
editor-in-chief of Delicious,
lent her expertise to write
“Plate up”, on page 110.
Part of a food editor’s
job involves eating at the
best restaurants, but
Kerrie’s favourite dining
spot is unexpected:
“Home! I eat out so
much I like to cook and
entertain with my family
at home when I can.”

SOPHIE
ROBERTS
Hairstylist Sophie Roberts
is no stranger to Vogue
Australia, and for this issue
she was the skilled hand
behind Karlie Kloss’s wild
curls. “We loved the idea
of seeing Karlie as a 90s
supermodel. Adding
a fringe and curls on
the beach seemed luxe
and unexpected.”

LIGHTBULB STUDIO WALTER MAURICE

storytelling app Indigital,


and spoke at our inaugural
Vogue Codes summit last
JORDAN GRAHAM LIZ HAM

year. Of her Vogue writing


debut (see page 98), she says:
“As an Indigenous scientist,
I thought this would be the
last thing I would have
the opportunity to do.”

58 APRIL 2017
vogue180º
Nerida Winter wears
a Balmain jacket and
Moschino dress, worn
as shirt, both from Myer.
Saint Laurent shoes,
from Miss Louise. Her
own pants. Hats and
headpieces, all Nerida
Winter, from Myer.

Nerida Winter
MAKE-UP: MOLLY WARKENTIN
HAIR: KEIREN STREET

Suspended animation. Ideas in motion. Perhaps a


#MannequinChallenge, except that Nerida Winter is literally
flying through the air on rigging. OMG! By Alison Veness.
Styled by Philippa Moroney. Photographed by Hugh Stewart.

60 APRIL 2017
CLOCKS, BIRDCAGE AND TABLES FROM
ICI ET LÀ. LAMP, ROCKING CHAIR AND

S
he is in her own private Dalí. A touch Salvador. Surreal, and all the flights of fantasy steamed, stitched and plumed into a
HATSTAND FROM OPERA PROPS.

yes sur-really. She is the conjuror of everything imaginative gorgeous reality. Bows and boaters. Bunny ears, ballerina-pretty
and the designer of a wild kaleidoscope of heavenly hats. headbands and berets. She has made us leather birds and lace
See, she can even make them crawl delicately across the Minnie Mouse-style ears. Conversation starters. Food for fashion
DETAILS LAST PAGES

studio floor disguised as spiders and make them all dance for us on the field, naturally. She has topped us off quite brilliantly and
on cue. These hats lead their own lives. They have seen things all with that cheeky smile and passion for creating show-stoppers
that some of us can only dream of. Oh, how she has taken us to – the hats that stop a nation. The picture that stops the reader. She
the races: giddy up, Melbourne! Randwick! Ascot! Everywhere. is quite a sensation. We would put money on her as she is a sure
The highs, the triumphs, the total trip of felt, straw and feathers bet any day. Horses? It’s all about Nerida’s hats. ■

VOGUE.COM.AU 61
vivid sydney SHINES 26 may – 17 JUNE 2017

FOR 23 NIGHTS THE CITY OF SYDNEY SHINES BRIGHT


WITH A CELEBRATION OF LIGHT, MUSIC AND IDEAS.

The multi-award winning winter festival engage the senses and emotions with interactive
attracted over 2.3 million people in 2016, and immersive experiences.
cementing its position as the largest event of its For melodic vibes, Vivid Music will again
kind in the world. In 2017, Vivid Sydney will expand musical horizons with a celebration
return with an inspiring new program of amazing of breakthrough performers and the best in
light art, cutting-edge music performances, current and future music leaders. 2017 will see
creative talks, workshops and showcases. over 250 music events held in venues across
The creative heart of Sydney will be illuminated Sydney. Meanwhile, Vivid Ideas is Australia’s
from 6pm to 11pm every night with the Vivid most anticipated global forum for ingenuity and
Light program of projections, light sculptures innovation and in 2017 will feature a carefully
and installations. Each one is designed to curated program of over 200 events.

For further information go to vividsydney.com


BIG IDEAS
The Vivid Ideas schedule will turn creative inspiration into action
with a phenomenal line-up of thought leaders and events. The 2017
program will cover topics such as mixed reality, screen and content,
design, advertising, marketing, smart fashion and wearables.
This year Vivid welcomes American street artist, graphic
designer, activist, illustrator and founder of OBEY clothing,
Shepard Fairey. Best known for his Obama HOPE poster, Fairey
will headline a number of inspirational inluencers for the Game
Changers Talk Series held at Sydney Town Hall.

Clockwise from top:


Shepard Fairey, Image by

vivid SHINES bright Nicole Reed; Vivid Ideas


talk at Sydney Town Hall;
Vivid Light installation 2016;
Goldfrapp, Carriageworks.
In 2017 Vivid lights up Sydney’s icons as the sails of the Sydney Opera
House and the arch of Sydney Harbour Bridge come alive with art
and colour. The creative canvas also includes a lighting display with
the Museum of Contemporary Art featuring Organic Vibrations, a
creative collaboration between Australian artist Julia Gorman, and
the Paris-based creative and artistic collective, Danny Rose.
The Vivid Light Walk will also provide a magical journey through
the Vivid precincts where you can experience a myriad of projections,
interactive installations and light art activations, including an extended
footprint in The Royal Botanic Gardens and new giant animal light
sculptures at Lights for the Wild at Taronga Zoo.

music unleashed
Vivid Music has performances from Australian and International
acts at iconic Sydney venues such as Oxford Arts Factory,
City Recital Hall, The Sydney Conservatorium of Music and
Carriageworks, which will host award-winning duo Goldfrapp
on 2 June.
The cutting-edge line-up at Vivid LIVE at Sydney Opera House
features acclaimed British folk-pop singer/songwriter Laura
Marling on 12 June, and French electronic superheroes AIR
exclusively performing their irst Australian concerts in nine
years on 30–31 May.
From 26–29 May see one of the most inluential American
bands to spearhead the folk-rock renaissance, Fleet Foxes, as
they premiere songs from their highly anticipated new album.
Australian act The Avalanches will be on hand from 27–28 May
with a Vivid LIVE exclusive of the very irst full performance
of their seminal debut album
Since I Left You, and will bring along
some special guests for the ride.
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VERA WANG S/S ’17

FENDI S/S ’17

SAINT LAURENT S/S ’17

ALEXANDER WANG S/S ’17

VOGUE.COM.AU 65
vogueMOOD
VOGUE MOOD
BALLY BAG,
$1,895.

e were all young once. An

W obvious sentiment, but it does


mean there’s a common
denominator, something we
have collectively experienced: youth is a time
of awakening, of discovery. And while we
might not all want to return to micro-minis
or bralettes as tops, when we pass that phase it
doesn’t mean we should leave behind the
willingness to experiment. A breezy
modernity can be imbued into a tired
wardrobe through a colour, or a silhouette.
Try neon as at Alexander Wang, who
touched on the surf-meets-skate Cali counter-
culture. Dabble in a balloon sleeve as at Fendi,
where Karl Lagerfeld employed a hint of
kawaii quirk. Dip into a shrunken biker as at

LOUIS VUITTON S/S ’17


Courrèges. More shapes to try: a puffed
shoulder, sleeves that dangle beyond the
fingertips. More fabrics? Leather and denim,
the original fabrics of teenage rebellion.
And it spread elsewhere. Nicolas Ghesquière
at Louis Vuitton tapped the no-ties freedom of
the young with Petite Malle phone cases rather
Milla Jovovich
than grown-up carry-alls. Chanel took tech- in 1997’s The
savvy literally by weaving wiring into ready-to- Fifth Element.
wear. It came through in the verve of the finale
at Stella McCartney, where models shook it off
in a moment of free dancing, while Marc Jacobs
sent his girls to a good old-fashioned rave.
Today it might be harder to belong to an
individual style tribe, what with the break-
neck speed at which we obsess over the next
thing then discard it, but what we can do is
tap an enduring feeling. If in no other way
than our clothes and our attitudes, we want
to be forever young. ■

Virtual FENDI
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68 APRIL 2017
VOGUE MOOD

Mini me
Hemlines are on the rise, but their
leg-flashing lengths aren’t just for
the young, says Zara Wong.

A
few years back, before Anthony
Vaccarello was named creative director
at Yves Saint Laurent, I commented that
his designs, with the slits up above the
hipbone and hemlines skirting the upper parts of
the thigh, were decidedly sexy. “No, not sexy,” he
said in surprise, explaining that he cut them that
way to make it easier for the woman to move.
Old habits die hard, I see, when his debut for
Yves Saint Laurent for the spring/summer ’17 Backstage
season had women swing by in liquid at Giamba.
metallic skirts hitched up to the waist with
swathes of leather sitting high on the leg.
You’d think by now we’d be used to skin-
baring ways. The number of centimetres in
skirt lengths should not have a direct

SAINT LAURENT S/S ’17


relationship to the level of maturity,
seriousness or intelligence. “I was worried
LOUIS VUITTON S/S ’17

that if I looked too feminine, I would not be


taken seriously. I really wanted to wear my
shiny lip gloss and my girlie skirt, but
I decided not to,” wrote Chimamanda Ngozi
Adichie in We Should All Be Feminists.
“Many of us think that the less feminine a
woman appears, the more likely she is to be
taken seriously.” Dressing with a sense of one’s
own form should be an extension of power.
The euphemistic term “age-appropriate” is
really about what you should and shouldn’t wear as
you get older. In my teens and early 20s I would
VERA WANG S/S ’17

shorten dresses and mimic Proenza Schouler runway

TOPSHOP UNIQUE S/S ’17


looks from clothes that came from my mother’s quite
fantastic 80s and early 90s-era closet. Seeing peers in
the fashion industry as they progressed from interns
and assistants to editors and managers swap their
minis for midis and trousers was a way to chart their
relationship with age-appropriate dressing.
But if fashion teaches you one thing, it’s to stick to what
works for you. We all have our personal body gripes – my
own genetic disposition doesn’t lean towards anything with a And don’t forget, fashion is only interesting when it’s divisive.
midriff focus. The one rule to break is that of never wearing the Trends can be a little boring, and for every person who groans
same trend twice. Let me explain: if you wore minis in your 20s or when it’s heralded that the mini is back, another one is rummaging
30s, it’s worth revisiting now, but reintroduce the look with a slight through her closet in glee.
tweak. These days I no longer wear my Luella Bartley micro-minis Dorothy Parker once quipped: “If you wear a short enough
without the safety of opaque tights, and ensure that I balance the skirt, the party will come to you.” On the runway, skirts went
rest of the outfit: boots or strategically chosen heels (keep the from a few fingers above the knee to nary a hand-span below the
stilettos-and-mini combo for night) and a looser shape on top. waist, a length that one would advise are for experts only, and for
Even on days when I question my favoured short length, there is the most part are runway show-exclusives anyway. For alternatives,
still Julianne Moore wearing a Tom Ford thigh-grazing shimmery look to Louis Vuitton for elegant A-line shapes, or Giamba for
dress with aplomb or Jennifer Lopez in myriad mini-skirt options ladylike prettiness – the softer hems are more forgiving. As
to look to. And I think of Helen Gurley Brown, who wore mini- Vaccarello said to me after the show: “I guess because of the
skirts well into her 80s. All beautiful women in their own right, length, when the woman does put on heels it is like: ‘Oh, wow.’”
INDIGITAL

but far from the typical 180-centimetre supermodels who are That power play from one identity to another: isn’t it satisfying
held up as examples for 40-plus mini-skirt wearers. to be the bearer of such a swift transformation? ■

70 APRIL 2017
VOGUE MOOD
From left: Anna
Plunkett wears a
Romance Was Born
dress, $1,900, and
cape, $390. Her own
boots. Martina
Mount wears a
Romance Was Born
blouse, $990, flares,
$990, and feather
boa, $250. Christian
Louboutin shoes,
P.O.A. Litay Marcus
wears a Romance
Was Born gown,
$900, feather boa,
$250, and Beau
Coops x Romance
Was Born shoes,
$650. Luke Sales
wears his own
clothes.

ROMANCE
WAS BORN
“The AFC has helped
us grow our business
internationally, which is
something we wouldn’t
have been able to do by
ourselves as a small,
independent business.
Showing in Paris has
meant that we have HAIR: CAMERON JON MAKE-UP: NICOLE THOMPSON MOLLY WARKENTIN
really focused our
attention on the
detailing and quality
of our garments.
Developing beautiful
fabrications and
interesting textiles is
ALL PRICES APPROXIMATE DETAILS LAST PAGES

our passion, so the


showroom has been a
driving motivation for
us. To see our business
growing means so much
to us, especially as we
have been in business
now for 10 years.
Looking internationally
is a natural progression
for the brand.” – Anna
Plunkett and Luke Sales,
Romance Was Born

72 APRIL 2017
CHRISTOPHER
ESBER
“The Designers
Abroad initiative
through the AFC
is an opportunity
that resonates
and aligns with
the overarching
vision for the
label. [It has]
offered a
continued
opportunity
to develop
and actualise
new growth
partnerships and
connections.”
– Christopher Esber

almost three years since its inception, Vogue


celebrates our diverse and original local
talent. By Alice Birrell. Styled by Mikey
Ayoubi. Photographed by Jake Terrey.

I
t’s no secret that vision is vital in fashion. As for establishing a
peak body for one of the most dynamic of industries, vision also
lights fuses. “The AFC started with a huge ambition but started
on a wing and a prayer,” says the Australian Fashion Chamber’s
general manager Courtney Miller. Almost three years in, the
chamber already has an august list of achievements. A program
called Designers Abroad has seen some of our most prodigious
talents establish a presence in Paris. “It’s evolved in the last couple
of years to really be an institution that helps our designers,” Miller
reflects. Not only that, but the chamber has connected Antipodean
talents, playing matchmaker for mentors and mentees, as well as
providing a framework for labels as businesses to operate within,
among other crucial initiatives that guide and promote growth.
Miller plans to establish a platform in New York, building on the
awareness of the creativity and original thinking unique to
Australian designers. “We believe fashion is yet another
Christopher Esber (top right) wears his own clothes; all models (above) opportunity for Australia to tell the varied stories of our country
wear Christopher Esber. From left: Carla Pereira wears a camisole, and to change the perception of who we are,” she says. Here, our
$490, and culottes, $890. Elah Garcia wears a shirt, $790, and dress,
$1,900, worn underneath. Appoline Rozhdestvenska wears a blouse, designers reflect on their paths to Paris and the importance of the
$680, and skirt, $550. Martina Mount wears a dress, $1,200. kind of backing that’s with them all the way.

VOGUE.COM.AU 73
VOGUE MOOD
Ryan Lobo
wears his
own clothes.
Helene L
wears a Tome
jacket, $7,550,
shirt, $1,395,
pants, $875,
and sandals,
P.O.A.

TOME
“The support
from the AFC
has been
amazing both
at home in
Australia and
globally. It’s
important to
be in Paris;
everyone is
there on business
and we get to see
half of our
buyers. It’s a
great occasion
to all come
together and put
on a showcase of
Australian
talent.” – Ryan
Lobo, Tome

P.E NATION
“Paris fashion week is held in such
high regard in the fashion world
and to be presenting the collection
there was such an amazing
opportunity, one we would never
have been able to do on our own
in such a short time since our
launch last year. P.E Nation was
the first activewear brand to be
showcased as part of the AFC. It
was great to meet with buyers face
to face and to explain the ethos
and vision behind the brand
first-hand. Feeling that we were
part of the global fashion industry
… is an awesome feeling for
a start-up.” – Pip Edwards,
co-founder, P.E Nation
P.E Nation’s Claire
Tregoning (centre) and
Pip Edwards (right).
Tregoning wears a P.E
Nation top, $100, and
skirt, $180. Her own
shoes. Edwards wears a
P.E Nation jacket, $250,
and T-shirt, $140. Her
own pants and shoes.
Veronika Heilbrunner
(far left) wears a P.E
Nation top and shorts,
both P.O.A. Converse
sneakers, $120.

74 APRIL 2017
MACGRAW
“Heading to Paris with the AFC
for our first French showroom in
October made the experience far
more digestible. It’s also really
nice to work closely with so many
Australian labels. Our local
designers are so inspiring and it
seems the world is finally catching
on to that.” – Tessa MacGraw,
co-owner and designer at Macgraw
with her sister Beth MacGraw
From left: Beth MacGraw
wears a Macgraw blazer, $665,
dress, $565, and shoes, $495.
Tessa MacGraw wears
a Macgraw dress, $995,
and boots, $895. Appoline
Rozhdestvenska wears
a Macgraw dress, $825.
Christian Louboutin
shoes, P.O.A.
ALL PRICES APPROXIMATE DETAILS LAST PAGES
JAKE TERREY

Macgraw dress,
$825, and
slides, $525.

VOGUE.COM.AU 75
GARY BIGENI
“In the past I have had a very clear vision for my brand
and the collections offered each season. The AFC
has helped me balance this creative vision with the
commercial realities of running a business; often
through initiating dialogue with my customers and
providing invaluable product feedback. The network
of like-minded people and companies has provided a
real platform for dialogue, idea exchange and problem-
solving. To be surrounded by great brands and have
the collection seen in this way with structure and
support was nothing short of inspiring.” – Gary Bigeni

DION LEE
“Similar to the Council
of Fashion Designers of
America in the US and
the British Fashion
Council in the UK, the
Australian Fashion
ALL PRICES APPROXIMATE DETAILS LAST PAGES

Chamber has united


designers and created a
forum to discuss the
unique issues and
challenges facing
Australian-based
designer brands.
I believe this has
strengthened the local
JAKE TERREY

industry and allowed


designers to focus
on building global
businesses.” – Dion Lee

76 APRIL 2017
VOGUE MOOD

Shoe designer editors throughout his life, is an excellent


Manolo sport. He very politely excuses himself for
Blahnik, with
a model choosing an interview time that is early
wearing the before saying we can discuss “whatever
waist-high you want to know. I have all the time.”
boots he
created for It is hard to believe the 74-year-old has
Vetements. any time at all, given his output and
influence. His is a label imprinted on the
contemporary psyche, thanks to Sex and
the City’s Carrie Bradshaw, whose
Manolos played a supporting role, name-
checked ad nauseam by countless editors,
actresses and musicians, and recognised
by the Queen, who named him an
honorary Commander of the British
Empire in 2007. He has said himself his
shoes have the power to save marriages.
The kind of recognition a life’s work of
this calibre receives is something that has
Blahnik bamboozled. If he’s famous, he’s
the last person to comprehend it. “I don’t
understand when people stop you in the
street and say: ‘Hello Manolo, can I have
a picture with you?’” he says in his blend
of Received Pronunciation and his native
Spanish with the occasional florid
emphasis. “Oh my god,” he says, taken by
a new thought, as he flits seamlessly
between anecdotes. “Today I went to my
store in Burlington Arcade and two lovely
Chinese girls came up and asked for
a picture and then another Spanish girl,
and then someone else. And I said: ‘Look,
I have to go now because I am late …’ If I
go out people recognise my stupid old
face!” he says with mock horror, laughing.
“I don’t think he recognises it. He is
about doing what he does and doing it

Heart & sole


well,” says his niece, former architect and
now CEO of the company, Kristina
Blahnik, who places her uncle’s creativity
first. “We measure success on creating
Unrivalled film buff? CBE? World’s greatest footwear beautiful objects that are creative …
designer? Manolo Blahnik is a shoe-in. By Alice Birrell. I would, hand on heart, say that is
Manolo’s measure of success as well.” If he
has trouble grasping his level of influence,
wo minutes before a scheduled phone call with one of it is only because he is concerned with other things.

T the most important shoemakers of our time, a terrible

as the emperor of shoes, who has created the


“sole of perfection”, as Beatrix Miller once put “WE MEASURE
Those who know him describe him as extremely cultured. The
realisation dawns: I am not wearing shoes. It is 6am and erudite references that pepper his conversation are the result of an
the prospect that the man referred to intense curiosity. “[He] is constantly running
on some sort of nuclear battery. His mind
moves at the speed of light,” says Kristina. “He
it, might somehow intuit bare-footedness seems
real. A quick change and my anxiety is assuaged,
SUCCESS ON is so aware of what is going on and he talks to
people. He talks to his team, he talks to the
even though the call is of the landline type, not CREATING press, he is reading; everything you know from
Skype. Which seems to suit Manolo Blahnik BEAUTIFUL the classics to the latest books and watching the
himself equally well.
“I don’t like myself anymore. In the pictures,
OBJECTS” latest films. It is hard to keep up with him
because culturally I don’t think anyone could
I am talking about. As a person I can tolerate surpass him.”
TUNG WALSH

myself. In pictures I don’t,” he says, with complete sincerity. He When the conversation moves to Australia – where Harrolds
is in the minority. Blahnik, though plainspoken, is tirelessly boutique will make his shoes available here for the first time since
warm and, despite talking incessantly to fashion journalists and he began his label nearly 50 years ago – he reels off a mix of

78 APRIL 2017
VOGUE MOOD

famous and lesser-known Australians. It’s the kind of thing that It is why core values of quality and integrity govern the way
spills out when the door to his encyclopaedic mind is ajar. This both Manolo himself and the business at large operate. All the
time it’s Cate Blanchett, Jenny Kee, Nicole Kidman, director shoes are made in Italy and, until he injured his tendon, he would
Gillian Armstrong and costume designer Norma Moriceau. himself try pairs on in the factory. “You can go crazy with the
Most of them are movie names, because he is a film aficionado decorations and things like that but the most important thing
in the truest sense. His knowledge is intimidating, anchored for me is the comfort,” he says. “I do not have people complaining
from time spent in Paris, where he studied art and saw the at all and I have been doing this for 45 years now.”
Nouvelle Vague films of Jean-Luc Godard and Luchino Visconti Splashy labels and loud branding are not his style. “We haven’t
(The Leopard is one of his favourites). He fell in love with Romy got a kind of glaring beacon that this is a Manolo Blahnik …
Schneider and Alain Delon at the theatre and opened himself to there is a modesty about our shoes,” says Kristina. There are only
the cultural seedbed that was the French capital. 12 stand-alone stores when there could easily be more, seeing
“It was 1968 and Paris was burning, almost with energy, and that his shoes are sold in more than 30 countries. The business
they had change in mind,” he recalls. He tells the story of one has remained independent and isn’t rushing to expand. “I think
summer going to see the Doors, whom he describes as in this world of brands being owned by large conglomerates you
“the important young Americans”, and being taken with the lose a little bit of that soul,” Kristina says, pointing to their rare
youthful guile of Jim Morrison et al. “It was the beginning of my freedom. “We are not beholden to anything. It is unconventional;
discovery of what could be possibly done it is not following the path that is written.”
with the energy, how to channel [it], When Manolo left the
politically or otherwise.” ALL MANOLO banana plantation in Santa
With so much to draw on, the BLAHNIK SHOES,
$990, FROM
Cruz de la Palma on the
resulting designs, in anyone HARROLDS. Canary Islands where
else’s hands, could easily be he grew up, he was
costumey. Not so for Manolo. beginning to write that
Creations in silk, brocade, path. When he was 16
mink trim and exotic skins or 17, he can’t
with oversized buckles, $1,299, FROM remember which, he
HARROLDS.
exaggerated bows and went to work for his
swirling straps are all uncle, then director of the
anchored by heels, lasts United Nations in Geneva.
and welts that are as light as “Every day we would put papers in
slippers. “From the fairytale the chambers and I found that so tedious.”
of Cinderella, women all So he escaped to Paris, where he went to art
around the world have been school and studied set design at L’École du
$1,299, FROM
in search of the perfect shoe,” HARROLDS. Louvre before moving to London. A stint
observes Harrolds womenswear designing costumes for film and theatre
buyer Kathleen Buscema. “The followed before he was set on to shoes on
experience is what makes Manolo the advice of Diana Vreeland, to whom his
Blahnik like no other. It begins with friend Paloma Picasso introduced him. By
discovery; the shoe picks her.” 1971 he was making shoes in his own
The septuagenarian’s shoes are enjoying name with clientele that included Jane
some extra buzz at the moment. Collaborations Birkin, Penelope Tree, Charlotte Rampling
with Rihanna, Vetements, New York label Khaite and Grace Coddington. He borrowed
and young London-based designer Grace Wales £2,000 to open his first store.
Bonner have helped this along. He draws energy Staying steadfast to the traditional values that
from the present and the new guard. “The served him well in those early years has meant he
names are difficult: Demna Gvasalia and has endured in 2017. When once a young Manolo
the other one,” he says, by which he means worked up the courage to compliment Luchino Visconti
STYLING: MONIQUE SANTOS PHOTOGRAPH: GEORGINA EGAN

brother Guram Gvasalia, of the collective on his costumes, the filmmaker told him: “Without
behind Vetements. “They have another tradition, we’re nothing.” Owning a pair of Manolos taps into
concept of fashion,” he says. “I love people who a bygone glory. “My customers tell me they feel like the shoes
are courageous and have conviction, and they belong to something very important.”
ALL PRICES APPROXIMATE DETAILS LAST PAGES

have conviction.” A documentary directed by Michael Roberts looking at his life


While he thinks some of the new gen have definitely “got it”, is due out any day. Retrospectives, inevitable after Manolo’s kind
he still yearns for elements from the past. He bemoans the of career, make him nervous. Unfortunately for Manolo there is
splintering of a throwaway society and the shrinking class of a big one coming up that will tour Russia, Spain, Canada, Japan
people who exude elegance. “Madam Kennedy and people like and his father’s native Czech Republic. “I have my young lady
that in New York like Nan Kempner, all that generation is here helping me because I am really lost,” he says of an unseen
disappearing.” He admires Chinese couture clients, the “classic assistant. He will continue to work because he simply wants to.
chic” of Japanese women and the Englishwomen he sees in his “I like to work. I haven’t got anything else to do. My curiosity
adopted hometown Bath in tweed and twin sets. “They don’t and my energy to me are the same things. Maybe I was born as
dress chichi but they look fantastic! I love this country for that what they call a neurotic or hyperactive child. I have to control
reason. People don’t give a damn about things.” myself!” Women everywhere will pray he doesn’t. ■

80 APRIL 2017
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WATER, BABY
No pool, no play need not
be the way: three hotel
pools in the country that
don’t require a room
booking – plus the best
bar pool in Sydney. See the
rest at Vogue.com.au.

The Adelphi Hotel,


Melbourne.

MICHAEL KORS S/S ’17 $1,025.

TIBI S/S ’17

The Shangri-La
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The Olsen,
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Models poolside in a PANTS, $1,245,
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VOGUE.COM.AU 83
VOGUE MOOD

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Model wears: Comet
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VOGUE MOOD

Backstage at Rag
& Bone spring/
summer ’17.

Casual affair
Merging classic British style with American sportswear, Rag & Bone
has written a rule book entirely of its own, writes Alice Birrell.
hree little words. A lot of power can preside in just three It turns out his conversation is as fuss-free as the clothing he

T little words. There’s the obvious (“I love you”), the


rousing (“I’m with her”) and the shrewd (“truth will
out”, as Shakespeare foretold.) If Rag & Bone’s Marcus
Wainwright were running a campaign for some sort of fashion
presidency he might choose these three: “integrity”, “authenticity”
produces as the now sole chief executive and creative director of
the label – co-founder and former business partner David Neville
departed the company in June last year, but still sits on the board
of directors. “We’ve never really been about esoteric fashion for
the sake of art,” he says, seemingly still used to speaking as a duo.
and “quality”. It’s a triumvirate of words that comes up often, and “We’ve always had a very focused awareness of the importance of
mantra-like, when speaking with the co-founder and creative art and commerce and that it’s our own money – it’s my own
director of the New York-based label. money, my savings that I’m spending – so someone needed to like
Punchy? Not really. But then Wainwright is not so much here to it. Someone needed to be able to wear it.”
play the fashion game, spouting sexed-up fashion platitudes to the Now embedded in the fashion psyche, it would seem Wainwright
masses. Instead, as the label celebrates its 15th year, he’s drilling isn’t talking pocket money. Market sources say the brand was
down to core values. “Quality is first and foremost the most predicted to take in US$300 million last year. Rag & Bone has
important thing to me. You can have the most beautiful jacket, but become a go-to, if not the go-to, for extremely well-made real
if it’s not made well, I can’t really wear it,” he says plainly, with clothing. This year the label eschewed the runway show for an
distinctive British practicality. “I think the English in me has exhibition in New York of photographs of friends and muses
always been very drawn subconsciously to the English approach to wearing the label. “The pressure to be something that we’re not has
quality, which is very understated, but with a very intense focus.” never really dominated the decision making,” says Wainwright.

86 APRIL 2017
for women

life

sussan.com.au
sled by sussan

new catalogue out now


VOGUE MOOD

It’s part of the way the brand is adjusting to the seismic shifts Wellington College, a favourite of British military families, where
brought about by the digital age and the problematic high cost of portraits of generals graced the walls, hence the field jackets and
producing in America. Denim is made in LA, part of ready-to- anoraks. The tailoring draws on the traditions of Savile Row,
wear in New York, with some of the rest produced overseas. introduced to Wainwright by his father. Neither had formal
“Some things you have to compromise on otherwise you’ll go fashion training before they set out to make the perfect pair of
out of business, and some things you just don’t compromise on jeans in a Kentucky factory in 2002. “No-one ever told me what
because you’ll go out of business,” says Wainwright. I should think fashion was,” says Wainwright, adding he thinks
For pre-fall ’17, Wainwright showed jackets in washed-out shades the base now of New York has furthered their blend of British
with palm tree motifs, drawstring shorts and sandals when classicism and American sportswear. “Here you just walk around
everyone else was doing weighty outwear and trousers. a block and you can come up with a few ideas. It’s not
“The system here is so fucked,” he says, not one to hold that complicated.”
back. “People want you to deliver shearling in July and “A GREAT The consistency in the clothing, the shoes and the
August when it’s 95 degrees [Fahrenheit]; they want PAIR OF bags, the slight Margiela-esque approach to reworking
spring stuff in January and it’s snowing.” The label’s the staples, has given the brand broad appeal. That the
response is making the switch to monthly drops rather JEANS IS first Australian store is opening in Melbourne’s The
than seasonal collections. A GREAT Strand this month is not surprising. As Wainwright
Taking the fashion temperature seems to be an
intuitive skill for Wainwright, who knows there’s a
PAIR OF says, “a great pair of jeans is a great pair of jeans”.
Wainwright now juggles being a father with the
need to dip into the Zeitgeist. “You can’t be completely JEANS” demands of the Rag & Bone men’s and womenswear
off-trend if everyone wants to wear skinny jeans and and the business mechanisms. “My day is a little bit
you’re making bell bottoms. That doesn’t work.” That’s not to crazy, so home is like bath time and stories followed by collapsing
suggest the collections that veer toward an editorial look feel in a heap most of the time.” The future is also on his mind. “A lot
forced. For spring/summer ’17 cricket knits were exaggerated to of the time I’m thinking about how fast the world is changing and
become nonchalantly slouchy, cotton twill chinos were smartened how to preemptively make decisions. I think that’s what people are
up to become an easy alternative to working-girl trousers and the struggling with in fashion right now; everything feels very fucking
roomy shirt dresses were versatile wear-with-alls. nervy,” he says with a half-laugh. “No-one really knows what’s
going on, and I think you need to seize the day.” Three more words
roots. Founding duo Neville and Wainwright met as schoolboys at to see him on the long road. ■

RAG & BONE


SHIRT, $425.

RAG & BONE


PANTS, $855.

RAG & BONE


PARKA, $1,450. ALL PRICES APPROXIMATE DETAILS LAST PAGES
GEORGINA EGAN

88 APRIL 2017
90 APRIL 2017
Opposite: Lily-Rose Depp in her suite at
the Ritz Paris between shows. This page,
from top: Pharrell Williams sitting with
Cuba Tornado Scott; Willow Smith and
her mother Jada Pinkett Smith getting
ready before the show; model Soo Joo
Park training in the hotel pool;
Sofia Richie, who made her debut as
a model in the Chanel show.

Paris nights
With its glamour and storied history, the
Ritz Paris was the only venue for Chanel’s
homecoming extravaganza. By Zara Wong.

H
ometown advantage: back then, to Paris,” Chanel
seemed to declare after previous jaunts around the
world for its Métiers d’Art shows. This is what it looks
like when Chanel takes over the Ritz Paris – the hotel
Gabrielle Chanel called home. It’s a party with a gaggle of
Chanel-ified pretty young things: Lily-Rose Depp (looked on by
her mother, Vanessa Paradis), Sofia Richie, Ellie Bamber, Sistine
Stallone, Bella Heathcote, Rowan Blanchard and Willow Smith.
We hear Pharrell Williams and Anna Mouglalis took part in
some karaoke at the Ritz bar, and Geraldine Chaplin was taught
how to prepare chocolate mousse in the Ritz kitchen. A certain
bellman, who has met both Gabrielle Chanel and Charlie
Chaplin, mused of the night: “Having Geraldine Chaplin makes
it feel like Mademoiselle Chanel is still alive.” ■

VOGUE.COM.AU 91
VOGUE MOOD

1CD VH
We’re familiar with the go-to
labels for an affordable wardrobe
refresh. Here are the new names
to add to your shopping rotation.

Steele

VACATION-READY
Swingy linen 70s-inflected dresses and
ruffled separates have made Melbourne
label Steele a sell-out, and UK-based
Pampelone draws inspiration from the
founder’s childhood holidays in Saint-
Tropez with styles named after the town’s
local spots. Finish off with Cult Gaia’s
bamboo handbag, which has sold out
several times over thanks to its price
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Remote access
It defies convention, but launching a tech start-up in outback
Australia makes perfect sense, writes Mikaela Jade.

A
n investor once said to me that Aboriginal, female, artisanship in Arnhem who have trouble getting their exceptional
remote-area technology start-ups were, “quite frankly, products to market. We’ve developed a subscription box service
high risk”. At the time I was shocked, disheartened and that connects these women through an e-commerce platform to a
angry at the racial and sexist undertones of such a limited number of urban women. Our subscription service takes
remark and gobsmacked that someone who could advance the subscribers on a 12-month journey across Arnhem Land through
world with their pocket change would let “risk” get in the way. experiencing high-quality homewares, clothing, jewellery, native
It is said that high risk brings high reward, and that’s absolutely teas, body products, artworks and literature in a monthly themed
right. Starting an Indigenous augmented reality company from box. Each box contains unique products and includes a multimedia
bare bones in one of the most remote places in Australia has been story of the artisan and a pre-addressed thank-you card. The model
high risk. Kakadu is hardly the place you would expect high tech to works not on volume but on scarcity. Owing to the number of
be incubated: an Aboriginal community with English as a second women, and the time it takes to create their products, we cannot
language, limited by financial resources and zero exposure to the fulfil more than 500 Dilly boxes per month.
tech world, would, you’d assume, steer you away from such an InDigital is in juxtaposition to the fast-paced start-up world. We
endeavour. But that is take our time. In one of
exactly what makes what the most socially isolating
we do high reward. places in Australia, we are
My company, InDigital, connected to mentors in
believes Indigenous Palo Alto, San Francisco,
peoples from around the Dubai, New York,
world are the best placed Melbourne, Sydney and
to deliver real disruption Canberra through
and real value in the digital LinkedIn, Crunchbase
economy. It’s not a and social media. In an
mainstream perspective industry filled with
and causes friction among incubator hubs designed
stalwarts of the investment to cluster people together
world. Where I see in city environments, we
untapped scientif ic operate from a digitally
knowledge – the result of powered distributed
80,000 years of science studio model supported
experiments – they often by staff in India, the
see poverty, lack of Philippines, Montreal,
education and investment Cairns and Port
dissonance. Macquarie. Where young
Luckily, our peoples have start-up entrepreneurs
always known friction UNLIKE THE FAST-PACED START- create inspiration in small
makes fire, and if you light
a fire in the right place at
UP WORLD, WE TAKE OUR TIME Google-esque play pads,
our team of Elders draw
the right time the entire community benefits for a long time. inspiration from a 19,804-square-kilometre world heritage cultural
Augmented reality is our firestick. We have developed a platform landscape carved out 140 million years ago.
that allows Indigenous communities from around the world to There is something deeply rewarding about sitting where people
share and economically benefit from their cultures in 3D have sat for thousands of years asking for answers to humanity’s
augmented reality without an internet connection. Users download challenges. In the quiet rainbow of a winter sunset or the roaring
our app, Indigital Storytelling, point their phone (or soon to be of a summer monsoon storm, the answers always arrive. Personally,
wearable device) at a preprogrammed object, artwork or place and I love to see people’s smiles when we demonstrate the products. In
the traditional owner from that place brings to life ancient 90 seconds we can shatter unconscious biases about Indigenous
IMAGE COURTESY OF MIKAELA JADE

perspectives, knowledge or Dreamings. Users pay for the products communities and empower non-Indigenous people to see us
(cards, posters, T-shirts), or at a cultural site they pay to download differently. Best still, Indigenous knowledge holders are for the first
the content. It’s created a wildfire of opportunity for the community time economically valued in the digital economy and recognised
where I live. Being able to profit from cultural knowledge systems as innovators on par with those in high-tech launch pads.
in a new and culturally appropriate way is the reward. Yes, there is no doubt we are high risk. These days, that to me
Building from our lessons in the remote-area-based digital is the ultimate compliment. ■

economy has empowered us to start a second enterprise with the To find out more about InDigital, go to www.indigital.net.au.
women of Arnhem Land, called the Dilly Box. There are hundreds Mikaela Jade spoke at the inaugural Vogue Codes event in 2016. For
of Indigenous women makers practising thousands of years of more information, go to www.vogue.com.au/voguecodes.

98 APRIL 2017
VOGUE CODES

Making
the
first
move
Whitney Wolfe wants to change
the way online dating works,
on her way to making the
digital world a more civil space
for everyone. By Zara Wong.

O
ver a matcha latte in New York last winter, my clever,
attractive, gainfully employed friend gave me the
lowdown on the city’s dating scene. Bar etiquette
hadn’t improved, and most of the apps on offer
hadn’t helped singles. Except for one. “Bumble,” she said
between sips of her hot drink. “That’s the only app where the
guys are so much better.”
Better? It seemed like a far-fetched statement to make of
a simple dating app. But Bumble, as Whitney Wolfe tells me, has
an in-built functionality that has changed the behaviour of its
user base. “From the get-go, people said it would never work, and
that we were crazy, because men are meant to make the first
move and that women would never do it,” says Bumble’s 27-year-
old co-founder and CEO. “We had to really push our vision and
say: ‘Trust us, if it is the woman who makes the first move, it
really makes a difference.”
Wolfe, as tech world spectators are likely to be aware, was also
the co-founder of Tinder – one of the world’s most prolific apps,
which helped introduce the words “swipe left” to the courtship
lexicon – and masterminded its university campus-focused connecting as it exists – both digitally and in real life – and it
marketing strategy. She was forced out of the company amid came down to the fact that gender norms do not encourage
a sexual discrimination case that included as evidence women to be in control,” Wolfe says over the phone from Austin,
incriminating text messages from another co-founder whom she where her company is located, away from the hubbub and
was dating. The lawsuit was settled out of court. distraction of Silicon Valley. (“There isn’t a fear of missing out;
Hesitant about returning to the dating app industry because of it’s detached from the expectation of looking over your shoulder
her past experiences, Wolfe had hoped to start a platform that to see what the next person is doing,” she says of her choice of
would “encourage kindness, positivity and accountability in the headquarters.) “We have to be equal and that’s where changing
digital space” for young women, as a response to the negativity the roles and putting the women in charge was born.”
found on social media. But a meeting with her now business Wolfe is active in the female start-up community and has
ELLIS PARRINDER

partner Andrey Andreev, who founded the Russian dating app invested in The Wing, a chic all-pink and rose gold women’s only
Badoo, convinced her that the dating world needed a female- club in New York that is less about breeding and more about
centric approach. “I tried to figure out what was missing in terms career development, and which hosts events that run the gamut
of women in that space and what exactly was wrong with of women’s lives, from networking, sex education and style.

100 APRIL 2017


“I think women really struggle to get men to understand what For Wolfe, the seemingly small act of building a functionality
their vision is,” she says, “but that can only change by backing that forces the woman to initiate conversation was a necessity.
more women.” She tells me about how she has been regaled with accounts of
She is also keen to shed light on the next generation of women how it has changed users’ behaviours in the real world. “The
moving up the ranks in the world. “It is hard for an 18-year-old golden rule is to treat others well, the way you want to be treated.
girl with a few dollars in her pocket to think she is going to It doesn’t apply to digital” – one thinks of all that cyber-bullying,
become the next Arianna Huffington. Don’t get me wrong, she where vitriol that could not so easily be expressed in real life
is an incredible inspiration, but we need to highlight someone gushes online – “so if you want the golden rule to apply, you
more attainable and useful for women who are at the beginning need to physically build that into your product … you can’t just
of their careers, not just the ones at the top.” It seems appropriate cross your fingers and hope: you have to guide them forward,”
then that Bumble has introduced the BumbleBFF function, says Wolfe on the powerful impact of making the first move.
which allows women to find friends, and is due to launch “And, with a very simple implementation, we have guided them
BumbleBizz, which facilitates contact for business and to behave in a certain way, which will have a positive impact in
professional reasons. our community.” ■

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Twists & turns
The lightness and fluidity of late architect Zaha
Hadid’s designs are realised in a reinterpretation
of one of Bulgari’s signature rings. By Zara Wong.

M
aha Kutay picks up the Dictaphone and places it in her palm of her
outstretched hand. She pretends to look at it in bewilderment, and giggles.
She is shy and economical with her words, but Boris Barboni, Bulgari’s
head of marketing, describes her as “polite but strong-minded” – the
perfect soft power to promote Zaha Hadid’s design aesthetic as the late architect’s
trusted accomplice.
Having been tasked to establish and head Zaha Hadid Design 10 years ago, she is in
Miami for the design practice’s latest project: reinvigorating Bulgari’s B.zero1 ring.
And with Hadid’s death last year, Kutay is now Zaha Hadid Design’s spokesperson,
a new role for her, meaning she’s not used to Dictaphones.
When art and architecture collaborates with fashion, synergies and parallel aesthetics
often occur. Not necessarily in this case, though. “Zaha Hadid’s aesthetic with Bulgari
– they do not fit. We are geometric, we are about colour and opulence. Hadid’s aesthetic
is very asymmetrical, very linear and with a colour palette that is very unsaturated

104 APRIL 2017


STAY CONNECTED
IN STYLE.
HE INN
NOVATIVE AND ISH BMW X1.
Objects of desire tend to go out of fashion. The classics however stay
grounded in timeless and sophisticated design, they age with grace.
The BMW X1 is of this approach, refined aesthetics and intelligent
luxury defines its style. BMW ConnectedDrive technology is designed
to be future proof, to adapt to change. Its engine options all employ
a philosophy which balances responsive power and low fuel consumption.
The BMW X1 is a modern classic.
VOGUE ARTS

compared to ours,” says Barboni. “Our designs do not fit, but we Zaha Hadid; instead, it’s a reinterpretation of something that was
share a passion for design and architecture, and innovation.” so legendary and important to us. And we were very interested to
For Hadid, an Iraqi-born Brit, innovation came from her see where we would end up,” says Barboni. “We chose it because
distinct way of understanding space. In the Arabic language, it was very architectural, but being so small, too, it’s a challenge.”
there is no word for landscape. Suzanne Trocmé, the British Barboni remembers sorting through the final sketches
curator, author, designer and friend of Hadid, elaborates: submitted by Zaha Hadid Design and being struck by the beauty
“Within the Arabic language, [traditionally] there are no words of the chosen work. “The smiles were twisted, so they weren’t
for space or spatial awareness, and there’s no word for deadline symmetrical, and then the changes made it have a fluid, wavy
– so with those constraints, where do you start if you’re from the design language,” he says. “The approach was very different.”
region?” Trocmé reminds that there are more female than male The timing of the ring’s launch during Art Basel in Miami is
designers in the Middle East, “… because the men go into oil meaningful. Hadid died in Miami, and lived in an apartment in
and gas and women go into design from engineering and graphic South Beach’s W hotel. The famously straight-talking designer
design”, she says. often complained of the hotel
Hadid herself studied being ruined by visitors, and
mathematics in Beirut before Maha Kutay and disliked the city’s architecture.
below, Bulgari’s
pursuing architecture in new B.zero1 And, just prior to her death,
London. Earlier in the day, ring, $3,220, she had been working on a
Trocmé fascinated the media at which she helped residential apartment the city,
reimagine.
the press launch by relaying how to be completed in 2018. When
she introduced Karl Lagerfeld asked she had said that she had
and Zaha Hadid. It was the greatly reduced her commission
start of a fruitful friendship that fees on the project, such was
went on to see Hadid designing her desire to contribute to the
a mobile Chanel museum, skyline of the beach city.
another milestone in her long The original concept for the
association with the fashion and ring was Hadid’s own. “Zaha
style spaces. came up with an idea and initial
Hadid’s favourite designers sketch,” explains Kutay of the
included Issey Miyake, Miuccia process, which then had the
Prada and Rei Kawakubo, team designing further and
whose work, much like her own, reconvening for feedback. The
challenged the norm. original B.zero1 ring used the
The late architect recognised tubogas technique, which allows
in herself that distinctive precious metals like gold to be
approach of looking beyond made flexible and pliable. Kutay
the conventional boundaries points to the three elements of
of architecture, a propensity the ring that she and her
perhaps due to her background: “IT WAS VERY team determined must
born in Baghdad and being a
woman in the male-dominated
IMPORTANT TO remain unchanged to
share the same essence
world of architecture. GET THIS LACE- of the original: the
She writes of finding
inspiration in the work of
LIKE EFFECT “smiles” within the
centre of the ring, the logo,
painter Kazimir Malevich: AND THIS and the quality of movement
“I found the traditional system TRANSPARENCY” of the springs. “So in the same
of architectural drawing to be way we look at our buildings
limiting and was searching for a new means of representation … connecting to the environment, linking to the surroundings, this
My work explored these ideas through concepts such as explosion, piece of jewellery is somehow connected to the human body.”
fragmentation, warping and bundling. The ideas of lightness, A celebrated and award-winning architect, Hadid’s completed
floating and fluidity in my work all come from this research.” designs clustered late in her life. She has a body of work that
Within her portfolio this lightness and sinuous movement is remains unrealised, like the infamous opera house in Cardiff and
more than apparent, from the London Olympics Aquatic Centre a resort on Hong Kong’s Victoria Peak. Trocmé says Hadid
to the d’Leedon apartments in Singapore. B.zero1 shares the would have been overjoyed to see the Bulgari B.zero1 ring; all
same curvilinear form and rhythmic fluctuations. “If you hold architects want to see their work realised and within reach, so
ALL PRICES APPROXIMATE

the original B.zero1, it has movement, it springs a bit,” explains that, in Hadid’s case, admirers of her work wouldn’t have to
Kutay, showing off the ring, which stands out on her palm like a travel to China or Italy to see her work, or only see it in theoretical
DETAILS LAST PAGES

miniature modernised Colosseum. “So we wanted to visually try sketch form.


to portray that … it was very important to get this lace-like effect When we meet, Kutay is wearing the B.zero1 ring in yellow
and this transparency within the ring.” Removing streams of gold. How satisfying must it be been for her, then, to see the
metal and twisting what’s left has produced a lighter, looser and Bulgari B.zero1 ring finalised, to have her designs twisting and
more modern piece. “The point wasn’t to make a new ring by turning on her own finger? ■

106 APRIL 2017


RED RIDING HOOD
VOGUE ARTS

A “WE’VE
ALL LOVED.
WE’VE ALL
LOST. WE’VE
ALL FELT
JOY AND
SADNESS
IN EQUAL
MEASURE”
RED RIDING HOOD
VOGUE FOOD

Plate up
As the World’s 50 Best Restaurant
Awards heads to Australia for
the first time, Kerrie McCallum
investigates the culinary landscape.

C
hefs. There can be no debating they
are the rock stars of the gastronomic
world. Throw 50 of the most creative,
charismatic and somewhat crazy men on
the planet in a well-fed and lubricated room and
watch the fireworks begin: welcome to the World’s
50 Best Restaurant awards.
It is a heady celebration of gastronomy, talent,
mayhem and tight tuxedos and this month it’ll be
held in Australia for the first time. But what does
this mean for our ever-expanding food industry,
and where does this place us on the culinary map?
And, more intriguingly, why have only a few female
chefs ever made the list?
Considered the annual barometer of the greatest
food and wine experiences around the globe right
now, the list is selected by the World’s 50 Best
Restaurants Academy. Comprising 26 regions, each
with 40 members, this panel of more than 1,000
independent reviewers spends 12 months eating
its way around the world, to determine a pecking
order that changes livelihoods.
For the first time in the event’s 15-year history, it will be held culinary reputation in the northern hemisphere,” he says.
in Australia, at Melbourne’s Royal Exhibition Building on April “Having the ‘Oscars of food’ come to town will increase
5, attracting luminaries such as incumbent number one Massimo international focus on the Australian scene. Australia is having a
Bottura (of Italy’s Osteria Francescana), Noma’s René Redzepi culinary coming-of-age revival lately, and the world is watching
and Heston Blumenthal. For the awards sponsor Tourism with a keen eye.”
Australia, the investment is all part of a master plan to secure the Like any considerable investment of time and money, the
world’s attention via the Restaurant Australia campaign, to plant awards are not free of controversy. A breakaway group challenged
our country in the hearts and minds of potential travellers as a the legitimacy of the awards in 2015. There is also the oft-asked
premier food destination. And even though we question of why so few female chefs make the top
know it, the rest of the world isn’t there yet. 50. In fact, a special award had to be created to
Since the launch of Restaurant Australia TOP FIVE (2016) acknowledge women – Slovenia’s Anna Roš, of
1: Osteria Francescana
(including the Invite the World to Dinner campaign the restaurant Hiša Franko, has been named
(Modena, Italy)
in 2014, as well as the Noma Australia pop-up at world’s best female chef for 2017.
2. El Celler de Can
Barangaroo in 2016), spending on food and wine in Interestingly, Australia’s top-ranked chef is from
Roca (Girona, Spain)
Australia has grown by $886 million. Australia now neither Sydney or Melbourne. Brett Graham of
3. Eleven Madison
ranks number six in the world (up from 10 prior the the Ledbury in London ranked 14 last year (down
Park (New York, USA)
campaign) for food and wine, as perceived by those 4. Central (Lima, Peru) from 10). The Novocastrian moved to London
who haven’t travelled here before. 5. Noma (Copenhagen, after winning the Josephine Pignolet Award and
According to the Fink Group’s John Fink, one Denmark) opened his Notting Hill eatery at the age of 25.
of the country’s premier restaurateurs, who’s Other Australian restaurants that have recently
behind Sydney’s Quay, Bennelong, Otto, Firedoor made the list are Attica (currently ranked 33) and,
and the Bridge Room, it’s a win for Australia. “I would reckon in the 51–100 list, Sepia and Brae.
the awards are the Oscars of the international food scene. The list While Australia’s remoteness makes ranking challenging,
is voted and selected by an international academy of peers. It’s no hosting the awards should give local chefs the opportunity for
slouch to be admitted on the list, that is for sure, and gaining exposure, and many are looking forward to it. Attica’s Ben
IRVING PENN

such recognition from the international community is humbling.” Shewry says: “It will be a great honour and privilege to share
Fink’s Quay, under Peter Gilmore, has been one of our highest- what all of us locals know already –what an incredibly diverse
ranking restaurants on the list. “Australia already has a good and delicious culture Australia is.” Bon appetit! ■

110 APRIL 2017


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occasion-dressing label that wants to


take over your wardrobe. By Zara Wong.

J
odi Gordon!” says the designer Han Chong when he hears
that I’m from Australia. He pulls out his phone and flips
through images on his album, landing on one of Gordon
wearing a black and white jumpsuit from his label Self-
Portrait at a Sydney race day. And then another of her in a
maroon red loop lace mini-dress. His phone is filled with
women wearing his clothes, from familiar names like Reese
Witherspoon to the Duchess of Cambridge to non-celebrity
customers whom Chong regularly checks up on by keeping
tabs on his label’s Instagram account and hashtags. (If
you’ve worn Self-Portrait and taken a photo of it, it’s
likely Chong has seen it.) Self-Portrait’s success has
been defined by social media, which Chong
embraces. “Social media is now all about
individual style,” he says of his label’s name. But
as well as referencing the pop culture wave of
taking selfies, the name Self-Portrait also comes from
the long history of self-portraiture in art – Chong is
also a former artist who has exhibited at the Venice
Biennale and Munich Art Festival.
Chong’s name might not be immediately familiar.
Instead, he prefers to keep the attention on his
label, which has become immediately recognisable
for a style that takes on conventional markers of
femininity but at a price point that the retail
industry euphemistically (and excitedly, it should be
said, considering his commercial success) calls “accessible”.
“It’s hard work, but achievable. You need to go to more
meetings with more mills and more factories and put in
more effort,” he tells me in his New York showroom after
showing his spring/summer ’17 collection. He explains
that his margins are “sensible”, meaning that although he
might not be making as much on each garment as other
designers, they are certainly selling out at full price rather
than languishing on the sales rack. On a yellow dress,
I notice that the fabrication is fils coupe, a type of textile
that I last saw on the runway sample of an American label that
charges dresses in the tens-of-thousands, not the hundreds –
their commercial version of the runway look, I was told, will be
sans fils coupe because it was easier to produce.
On the other hand, Chong and his small team mock up
designs and work out what texture, fabric or look to prioritise,
“and then it’s a lot of negotiating!” They challenge themselves
to design something that looks and feels a lot more expensive
than the price tag. “Most people don’t come from fortune,” he
says. “The more affordable something is, the more they can
see themselves in it and the more attached they’ll get to it.”
It’s this design acumen and acknowledgement of the
customer’s needs that has made Self-Portrait one of the
GETTY IMAGES INDIGITAL

highest performing labels at stockists as varied as Dover Street


Market, Net-A-Porter and Myer. “The brand is also really easy
Jodi Gordon
to wear, the designs feature beautiful detailing, so you don’t
need to rely on over accessorising to complete your look,” says
Karen Brewster, group general manager at Myer. “Many women
Kerry Washington Rachel McAdams
come to Myer when shopping for racewear and Self-Portrait

124 APRIL 2017


VOGUE RACING

is one of our most popular brands over the racing


season. It really is the perfect fashion choice for a
day at the track.”
Robert Clergerie, the luxury French shoe
maison, approached Chong to collaborate on a
shoe line for its spring/summer ’17 collection.
A partnership with Self-Portrait would inject a
youthful zip to the heritage 120-year old label,
now headed by Roland Mouret. The shoes are
all made in France and priced affordably. “We
ask a lot of technical questions and work out
how to keep costs down,” explains Chong.
A career as a fashion designer seemed
unlikely for Chong, were it not for his aunt,
who worked as an artist. He grew up in
Penang, Malaysia, where his parents sold pork
jerky. “I needed more,” he said of his move to
London, where he studied at Central Saint
Martins while moonlighting as a hairdresser to
support himself. Though art and commerce
may have a tempestuous relationship, he is All looks from
willing to merge his vivid artistic streak with Self-Portrait’s
spring/summer
the reality of getting dressed. Fashion is a ’17 collection.
serious business, as he knows: he later went on
to work at high street chains like Topshop and River
Island, where he absorbed insights about customer
behaviour. “If you put the wrong button on the dress, if
“I ALWAYS
there’s anything wrong with the garment, the customer ASK
will put it on and they can tell and it impacts sales,” MYSELF
he says. “The smallest of details can have big effects.”
The Azaelea dress, a bustier dress of coloured
… ‘WHAT
broderie anglaise, has sold many times over. (You may DOES SHE
have seen it recently at a wedding or at cocktails, or
possibly have bought it yourself.) It’s flattering and
WANT TO
photogenic, two factors Chong keeps in mind when WEAR
designing. “We check that everything photographs
well: it needs to be photogenic,” he says assertively.
NEXT?”
“I don’t design thinking about price, I think about
the feeling I want to achieve.” But seeing that his
signature style is being replicated by other designers
and high street labels and perhaps because he’s
weary of his label’s occasion-ready status, the latest
collection delves more into separates and outerwear. “I see
lace dresses everywhere now! I want to offer something
different. When it gets too much, you’ll think to yourself: ‘It’s so
boring!’” he says, sensing a change in the air.
The Self-Portrait woman has a day job, too. Each season is an
exercise in reverse engineering. “I always ask myself at the
beginning: ‘What does she want to wear next?’” I hear this a lot
from many designers, but Chong has put it into practice and it
shows. His style is girlie, but always toughened up – here now
with khaki cottons and military-style buttoning. And with
flip-and-switch functions: looped buttons so the wearer can
decide whether to have the ruffle up or falling across the
shoulder, or if they’d want to shorten a longer skirt. There’s still
the lace, this time woven into a star pattern on a mini-dress, or
geometric shapes that embrace the shoulder, making for a face-
INDIGITAL

framing portrait neckline. All of this and more coming soon to


a wardrobe near you. ■

126 APRIL 2017


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VOGUE RACING

Top
notch
“Our fascination with
convention and our equal
fascination with setting fire to
it – that’s what hats play with.”
Vogue5H@<?B5CÈ1>5>4EB9>7
passion. By Charlotte Sinclair.
he millinery department at Fortnum &

T Mason is exactly as you hope it might be:


carpeted, reassuringly elegant, spotlights
trained on hats and bejewelled headpieces
like miniature sculptures, the noise a hushed
murmur. It is autumn and the glass tables are full
of beanies and tam o’shanters, tweed paperboys
and smart country fedoras of rabbit-fur felt,
finished with bands of grosgrain ribbon or
feathers. The number of headbands with veils,
berets with veils, trilbies with veils – “Veils are
huge,” says Fortnum’s accessories buyer, Sarah
Burton – suggests millinery is going through a
major coquette phase (and by extension us, too).
The question of who wears hats these days is
answered by a glance. A pair of Japanese teenagers
in Comme des Garçons are trying on turbans. Sotto
voce, an elderly woman pushing a Zimmer frame,
and her middle-aged daughter, pause to admire
Eugenia Kim’s wide-brimmed floppy hats. A young
woman in double denim, a frill of piercings on each
ear, a garland of tattoos around her wrist, strokes
a sparkly disco beret by Stephen Jones. Who
wears hats these days? Pretty much anyone.
But while hats still speak of the season, of
weddings and “occasionwear”, they also speak to
certain fashion’s most modish point of view. “[A]
fascination with convention and our equal fascination with Treacy continues. “Hats are directly in the line of vision of the
setting fire to it – that’s what hats play with,” says milliner Noel observer. They focus the attention – when you meet someone,
Stewart. It’s part of the reason they decorate models at you meet their face, not their foot.”
Christopher Kane, Jacquemus, Erdem and Thom Browne, and “Unlike anything else you put on your body, they express your
also the heads of fashion’s most directional tastemakers, including individuality,” says Stewart. Are you the type of person to wear a
Edie Campbell, for instance, who favours berets and tam baseball cap? A fascinator? A homburg? A headpiece fashioned
o’shanters. “They’re good for taming wild hair, plus they make into a pair of rabbit ears? (Which, as every Playboy bunny worth
you look chic and punk at the same time.” Hats convey attitude. her cottontail knows, is the pinnacle of flirtatious adornment.)
As Erdem, who worked with Stewart on hand-moulded black Even practical hats are not merely practical; aesthetics are always at
panamas for his spring show, says: “I loved the idea that this army work – the chin-knotted headscarves the Queen favours, for
of women could shield their identity as they stomped across the instance, found their way on to Alessandro Michele’s Gucci resort
boardwalks of Deauville.” ’17 catwalk. “Yes, hats can be about drama, about making an
There’s something else at work here, something in the realms of entrance, about the most vivid display of your character,
mystery. Speak to any milliner and the word magic comes up imagination and intention – but it depends what you want them to
frequently. A hat has a singular power of transformation, they do,” Stewart continues. “They can also be about protection and
say, imbuing its wearer with “allure, beauty, elegance”, according mystery and mood-accenting in a very serene way.”
to Philip Treacy. Not to mention an ability to turn an outfit from Which brings us back to magic. A hat can be balm for the
ordinary to extraordinary. “Women have always wanted to most beleaguered and glamour-starved soul. “January 22nd,”
beautify their heads and bodies since the beginning of time,” writes EM Delafield’s heroine in her Diary of a Provincial Lady.

128 APRIL 2017


“Robert startles me at breakfast by asking if my cold – which he pillboxes and riding hats and draped capotes, veiled boaters and
has hitherto ignored – is better. I reply that it has gone. Then straw sou’westers and bicorn skimmers, cockades, capelines,
why, he asks, do I look like that? … Feel that life is wholly crazy cartwheels, wind caps, velour hats, hair dryer hats and –
unendurable, and decide madly to get a new hat.” As Vogue why not? – a flying-saucer boater. “For centuries, women wouldn’t
reported in 1930: “Nothing in nature or art is so magically get dressed without a hat,” says Stephen Jones. “To leave the
transforming as a wide dropping hat of summer lightness.” house without one would mean you had taken leave of your
Sometimes, only a hat will do. senses.” Yet, after the Second World War, hats fell out of favour as
“Hats are always emotive, never neutral,” says Jones. No other young women embraced a less formal way of dressing. It wasn’t
accessory conveys such specific information: the personality of its until the likes of Philip Treacy and Stephen Jones started making
wearer, their occupation, rank or status. Zucchettos – the skullcaps hats in the 80s and 90s, followed by milliners such as Noel
worn by Roman Catholic clergy – are colour-coded according to Stewart, the Chanel-owned Maison Michel and locally Nerida
seniority: black for a priest, purple for a bishop, scarlet for a cardinal Winter and Ann Shoebridge – not to mention the rise of the high
and white for the Pope. Hats can communicate a person’s street, with its machine-made, affordable models – that hats
separateness from the general consensus, their rebel status – the re-entered our fashion lexicon.
pink beanies of the recent women’s marches, for example, or the “The hat,” Vogue wrote in 1940, “is not just an accessory, it is as
Phrygian caps worn by French revolutionaries – or, as with a important a marker of times and fashions as the length of skirts.”
policeman’s helmet, their membership of a group and conformity In which case, what does our headgear say about our current
to it. A hat tells the world who you are or who you want to be. moment? Every mannequin in stores, it seems, is wearing a fedora
Make no mistake, a hat alters the way the world or a beanie. “Multiplicity,” says Jones. “Everything
responds to you and the way you respond to the
world (you can’t say that about a handbag). “Hats
“HATS ARE qualifies as a hat now – baseball caps, straw visors
– it’s more democratic. People are less afraid of
enable you to be the person you want to be, not DIRECTLY them.” He continues, “Hats communicate with
necessarily the person you are,” says Stephen
Jones. Doors open. Queues dissolve. If you want
IN THE LINE people in a way that clothing doesn’t. Clothes
have to be studied because they have to function
to get a date, get a hat. “They’re the fashion OF VISION around a body, but a hat can be anything.” In our
equivalent of Tinder,” says hatmaker Piers OF THE Instagram-image-led world, says Treacy, “a hat
Atkinson. “Hats have such a presence in a room. has visual potency. By their nature they express
You always notice the person in a hat leaving the OBSERVER. modernity. But they shouldn’t look old. Old and
viewers admiring the wearer’s lifestyle,” says THEY hat is not a good word combination.
Australian milliner Nerida Winter.
A certain type of woman wears a hat. “A hat
FOCUS THE No chance of that. For Christopher Kane’s
spring/summer ’17 show, Stephen Jones created
hat,” as a customer in James Lock puts it later that ATTENTION” “scrunched fabric headpieces” as a counterpoint to
afternoon, meaning something with a bit more outfits of graphic, sheer dresses and Crocs. He
design, intention – oomph – than a woolly beret. “A hat? Oh sure, also added a new method to his technical repertoire. “We changed
she wore a hat,” writes Alan Jenkins in his poem Confidence. A the fabric and it wouldn’t hold the scrunching. I thought maybe
woman who habitually wears a hat, we infer, has a very precise it needed heating up, so I put it in the microwave – roast dinner,
sense of herself, and the assurance to telegraph it to the world. medium power, five minutes – and it held beautifully.” Millinery
(I’m hoping the cloche might make such a woman of me.) Hats is full of such surprises. “You have to be a furrier, tailor, plastic
are an exclamation point. There’s a reason that pop stars favour moulder, metalworker, embroiderer,” says Jones. “It changes every
them over almost any other accessory, or that Piers Atkinson’s season.” Of course, you have to have empathy and imagination to
lacquered cherry headpiece – “literally, the cherry on top” – be a good hat-maker, says Treacy, but fundamentally it’s about
adorns stylish coiffures from London to Ibiza to Moscow. skill and technique. Hats can take hours, weeks or even months
A friend, a committed minimalist who can’t bear hats in any to make. The method of hand-blocking – shaping a material into
form for the very reason of their conspicuity, says, with a faint roll a hat over a wooden block, setting it with steam, using a palette
of the eyes: “A woman in a hat is demanding to be looked at.” knife to carefully prise it off, stitching by hand – is equal to
(What’s wrong with that?) Though even she admits the likes of couture. Ailments symptomatic of the trade include burnt fingers,
Caroline Sieber in a Chanel boater, or French Vogue’s editor-in- poor eyesight and a sore back.
chief Emmanuelle Alt in a baker-boy cap in the Paris mizzle, or, To Fortnum’s, a few days later, where the in-house milliner
yes, Alexa Chung in a grey Maison Michel fedora are supremely Adrian Phillip Howard is wrist-deep in tissue paper, unwrapping
alluring. “Because,” she qualifies, “in these instances the hat is his creation for me. “Ready?” he asks, and lifts a cloche from its
functional as well as stylish. It’s about right place, right time.” hatbox. It’s most certainly a hat hat, very Galliano-era Dior, a
And yet … doesn’t that rather suck the joy out of it? The fun is streamlined bonnet of leopard-print wool – leopard print! – with
as much in their lack of practicality, their purely decorative a raised brim that curves over the right eye. It’s decorated with a
appeal. Charlotte Dellal, a mistress of the chic chapeau, would curling, stiffened, fabric bow and a spray of cockerel and pheasant
say so. “I love that, like shoes, they can transform the way you feel feathers secured with a bronze hatpin. I can’t get it on my head
when you wear them. Sometimes a style simply needs the right fast enough. In front of the mirror it happens: a jolt to the
attitude to look good.” (This is not a woman who worries about happiness receptors. As I begin mentally scanning my wardrobe
EMMA SUMMERTON

being looked at.) Her favourites? “I feel glamorous in a turban, for pencil skirts, fur collars, tweed jackets; suitable occasions or
elegant in a beret and wonderfully old-fashioned in a special locations where I might wear it (is it too much for Soho
headpiece. Fascinators,” she adds, “don’t count.” Farmhouse?); ways to wear it with my hair (should I get it all
A glossary of hats in Vogue is a poem of energising glamour. chopped off? Go full House of Eliott?), I find myself grinning.
Plumed toques by Balenciaga, Schiaparelli’s mini-toppers, “Oh good,” says Howard. ■

VOGUE.COM.AU 129
vogueBEAUTY

Is
your
face
VD
VOGUE BEAUTY

our face finishes at your boobs.” As a beauty editor, I’ve

Y heard this phrase countless times from dermatologists,


facialists and anyone else who cares about skin enough
to know that any cream, serum, essence or youth-
infusing tonic should not only be used on the face, but also
applied as diligently on the neck and décolletage. After all, skin
is skin. Now, apply the same principle to exercise. Fitness routines
and repetitive exercises to build and shape muscle – practices M.A.C STROBE
CREAM IN RRICONE MD
usually reserved for south of the neckline – are being introduced GOLDLITE, $55. HIO:PLEX
NTENSIVE, $212.
into daily skincare regimens to promote circulation and improve
overall skin tone.
While kneading, flexing and prodding your facial contours tone results in the detachm gaments from the
might seem like an odd concept, it’s a centuries-old beauty overlying skin. The skin is now unsupported by the
practice that has been used in all corners of the globe. Japanese underlying muscle and becomes ‘crepey’. With time the skin
geisha, lauded for their progressive beauty routines and youthful then droops down and the fat in the face also descends, due to
complexions, consider facial massage, or tsubo, basic maintenance the unsupported muscle layer.”
to boost circulation and ease puffiness. Meanwhile, in South Like forgoing the gym for the convenience of your living room,
Korea, a hotspot for beauty trends both outlandish there are “facecises” that you can do to promote muscle tone in
and beneficial, skincare blogs are brimming with how-to the face without seeking out a professional. “Exercises involve
tutorials on “skin fit” exercises designed to, say, lift droopy eyes opening your mouth wide to make an ‘O’ shape, pouting the lips
or create a narrower jawline. and stretching your neck by looking up at the ceiling. These
So what does it really mean to be “skin fit”? Like squats to exercises will stretch and activate the majority of the facial
tighten the glutes or bicep curls to tone the arms, constantly muscles,” says Dr Zoumaras, who warns against forehead-
engaging the facial muscles through specific movements can focused exercises, which can actually accentuate fine lines.
potentially improve muscle tone and the skin’s laxity. “Muscles in Meanwhile, beauty companies are ushering in a dual approach
the face are ‘mimetic’ muscles, meaning they are used for facial – both topical and manual – to face treatments and upkeep.
expressions,” says Dr Jack Zoumaras, a cosmetic Skincare leader Dermalogica recently launched its
surgeon at Sydney’s Artiste Plastic Surgery. “They on-counter FaceFit service, a menu of supercharged
differ from other body muscles by having “THESE express treatments designed to boost glow and
attachments to the overlying skin and not
necessarily arising from bone and tendons, like leg
EXERCISES radiance in 10 minutes. “FaceFit treatments achieve
visible results and create amazing skin health
and arm muscles. So-called ‘facial yoga’ can WILL benefits by using a combination of Dermalogica’s
potentially slow down ageing by improving facial STRETCH active cosmeceutical ingredients with high-tech
muscle tone.”
London-based facialist Nichola Joss has
AND equipment such as ultrasound and microcurrents,”
says Emma Hobson, education manager for the
pioneered a sculpting facial technique that deploys ACTIVATE International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica.
kneading and deep lymphatic massage and has, in
turn, gained a dutiful celebrity following from the
THE FACIAL I sign up for Dermalogica’s Brilliant Eyes service
and, after I’m lathered in a roster of serums and
likes of Gwyneth Paltrow and Gisele Bündchen. MUSCLES” moisturisers, the technician begins prodding and
Her facials are more workout than veg-out: Joss moving the skin in different directions to promote
conducts appointments not in a spa or salon but, more fittingly, blood flow. When the physician hands me the mirror I look as
in a fitness studio in Covent Garden (so in-demand are her though I’ve awoken from eight hours’ sleep and, like a deflated
services, she also hosts a monthly pop-up in New York). Her tyre that’s been given a shot of air, the fine lines around my eyes
unique (some may argue, intrusive) massage technique is designed seemed plumper, sans puffiness. I follow an online how-to guide
to lift the facial contours and yield impressive results. Relaxing it to repeat the technique at home and set aside a few extra minutes
is not. “The treatment involves massage from inside the mouth to to incorporate them into my nightly routine.
distress the muscle tissue and improve the tone and firmness of The gym skin movement has infiltrated beauty bags backstage,
the facial muscles to add youth and vitality, encouraging the too. This season make-up artists replaced descriptors like
muscles to sit higher,” says Joss, who studied physiology before “effortless” and “undone” with “gym skin” and “post-workout”.
training as an aesthetician. Joss warns clients that, as with real At Balmain, where the brief is typically along the lines of
ALL PRICES APPROXIMATE DETAILS LAST PAGES

sweat sessions, they may feel a little tender post-treatment, but “modern bombshell”, models could have hot-footed it straight
should see improved firmness and overall radiance. “It works by from an intense sweat session. “I smoothed a clear gel across the
toning and de-stressing the muscle fibres to allow them to behave cheekbones, temples, brows and lips, crafting the appearance of
more youthfully, holding less stress and tension, also holding less wetness to complement the models’ drenched, slicked-back hair,”
toxin, which is ageing to muscle and skin tissue. Firming muscles says make-up artist Tom Pecheux. “I wanted the look to be very
and de-stressing them makes the facial structure feel lighter and dewy and slightly wet, in a way that almost looked like it was an
more toned, refreshed and contoured.” afterthought of a girl putting her make-up on and then jumping
Dr Zoumaras says the first areas of the face to lose tone are into the ocean.”
BEN HASSETT

“around the eyes, followed by loose skin along the jaw line and Meanwhile, at Lanvin and Alberta Ferretti, make-up artists were
ears, fat moving to the wrong place, resulting in hollow areas highlighter-happy, utilising reflections on the zones of the face
like under the eyes, and areas of puffiness. The loss of facial – cheekbones, nose, forehead and cupid’s bow – that would

134 APRIL 2017


VOGUE.COM.AU 135
VOGUE BEAUTY

typically perspire during a gym class. But even the most artfully brightening system with anti-inflammatory properties to smooth
highlighted complexion and diligent face-exercise routine needs out discolouration and brighten the skin tone overall. Uniquely,
the support of hard-working skincare products. Dior Capture it also addresses loss of firmness, with 93 per cent of consumers
Totale DreamSkin 1-Minute Mask is a souped-up wonder who tested the products reporting their skin appeared “firmer,
product that delivers an instant glow to radiance-zapped skin. brighter and more youthful”.
Used twice weekly, the powder-pink gel transforms into a cream I don’t need a study to be convinced. I switch up my skincare
for a turbo-charged dose of chemical exfoliants such as salicylic, regimen to include an arsenal of firming and brightening
glycolic and citric acids. products, which I knead into the skin with some targeted massage
Occasionally, directing your efforts away from the problem at techniques. While it might be all the prodding or the M.A.C
hand can yield effective results. Many dermatologists agree that Strobe Cream I’ve been diligently applying to amp up the glow,
BEN HASSETT

while tone and plumpness are important elements in maintaining after a week I feel recharged and the top layer of my skin feels
a youthful complexion, one shouldn’t overlook the benefits of slightly more supple while simultaneously toned. And the best
brightening. Perricone MD Thio:Plex Intensive is a two-step part? I didn’t even need to set foot inside a sweaty gym. ■

136 APRIL 2017


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VOGUE BEAUTY

Meet the London-born,


California-raised musician
and new face of Yves Saint
Laurent Beauté. By
Lilith Hardie Lupica.

A
t just 24, Staz Lindes is on
the verge of becoming
a household name.
The musician – her band the
Paranoyds, a four-piece based in Los
Angeles, play the Golden State’s music
of choice, garage punk – and model,
who has walked for both Moschino
and Saint Laurent, was tapped by the
latter to front the brand’s beauty line.
(Former Saint Laurent creative
director Hedi Slimane first spotted
Lindes performing on stage.)
The blonde, blue-eyed beauty, who
admits she would rather talk songs
than fashion (“I can express myself
most freely with music”), may come
from music royalty – her father is Dire
Straits guitarist Hal Lindes – but it
seems the worlds of fashion and
beauty can’t get enough.
“I started getting scouted as soon as
I was 13 or 14,” Lindes says of the
career that chose her, but it wasn’t
until the age of 20 that she really
began modelling full-time.
“I just wanted to be myself no
matter what. It wasn’t something I was
pressuring myself to be. If it was going to happen it was going to So it should come as no surprise then that when it comes to
happen naturally,” Lindes admits. “If someone wants to put me beauty, Lindes prefers to pare it back, admitting her beauty look
in their clothes and have me represent it then I will, but it’s not is “pretty plain”. “I don’t really wear concealer or anything and
something I’m going to lose sleep over.” I typically wash my hair three times a month, if that, and then I’ll
While her willowy figure and perfect pout may say model-on- do a natural conditioner on the ends.” On the other hand, catch
the-verge, Lindes confesses to not exactly knowing the ins and Lindes performing and expect to see lashings of glitter, which she
outs of fashion. This, however, is not to say she doesn’t enjoy the applies with lip gloss, eyelash glue, ChapStick or whatever
process of getting dressed in the morning. “I wear something adhesive she and her bandmates can get their hands on.
completely different every day,” Lindes says. “I’ve heard people As for her Yves Saint Laurent Beauté stash, Lindes counts the
say: ‘I’ve never seen you wear something more than once.’” She brand’s Baby Doll Kiss & Blush lip-and-cheek stain and Couture
DETAILS LAST PAGES

also describes the freedom of living in an almost seasonless Los Kajal eye pencil as her favourites. She looks to cinema, music and
CLARE SHILLAND

Angeles and her proclivity to wear vintage. photography for inspiration, admitting she’s always tended to do
“I grew up on vintage, and didn’t even really know what brands her own thing rather than follow someone else’s lead. “I’ve just
were until I started modelling. I don’t recognise or look for names always liked using make-up as a tool to express myself,” says the
or labels or anything.” beauty muse. We couldn’t agree more. ■

138 APRIL 2017


VOGUE BEAUTY
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Face mapping 1
Beauty brands have always
looked far and wide for the
next sensational ingredient.
Here’s the latest globe-
trotting crop.
1. ROSE FROM FRANCE
LANCÔME ABSOLUE 2.
NIGHT PRECIOUS CELLS
RECOVERY NIGHT
CROWN JEWEL CREAM, $380.
2. MANUKA HONEY
A new haven dedicated to luxury and FROM NEW
ZEALAND
skincare has opened in Perth’s Crown KIEHL’S PURE
VITALITY SKIN
Towers. Promising indulgence in spades, RENEWING
Crown Spa Perth has partnered with CREAM, $87.
3. MARULA OIL FROM
skin aficionados La Prairie to deliver SOUTH AFRICA
AFRICAN BOTANICS
the city’s most luxurious spa. NEROLI INFUSED
MARULA OIL, $176.

140 APRIL 2017


© AERIN Beauty, DIST.

INTRODUC NG

H ROSE COLOG COLLECTIO


T h r ee n e w f r a g r a n c e e x p r e s s i o n s in s p ire d
b y A e r i n ’s f a v or i t e f l o we r.

Available at AERIN.com, Myer and David Jones


# A E R IN B e a ut y
VOGUE BEAUTY

Man made
A new crop of unlikely beauty
enthusiasts is bringing a fresh, and
decidedly genderless, approach to our
beauty cabinets. By Remy Rippon.
DAVID JUSTIN, FOUNDER AND CEO
Mr. Smith
Bar the words Mr. Smith etched across the centre
of the white bottle or tube, it’s difficult to decipher
what Mr. Smith actually is, or who should be using it.
But that’s the point. “As a brand, Mr. Smith is more
androgynous and less sex-driven. Our imagery,
marketing and packaging reflect this, and I believe
that this has resonated with a consumer who is more
confident, self-assured and independent,” says founder
David Justin of the unisex hair-care range that has
expanded from a shampoo and conditioner to 18
products in just over two years. The fact that it looks
good on the bathroom shelf isn’t a coincidence:
Mr. Smith’s aesthetic was shaped by the fashion
industry (Justin’s mother, a hairstylist and now
creative director of Mr. Smith, is a regular backstage
during fashion week, working on shows from Fendi
to Givenchy) and Justin’s own love of design.
“Cosmetic products are such a sensory experience
– touch, smell and look all need to be considered
when creating something luxurious and memorable.
This was very much the impetus for starting
Mr. Smith,” says Justin of the Melbourne-based
company, which is proudly vegan and PETA-
certified. “We’ve done things differently to others,
and that’s what has set us apart.”

LEXANDER VREELAND,
CREATOR AND PRESIDENT

pay homage to his grandmother through a range


of scents that has only recently become available
ALL PRICES APPROXIMATE DETAILS LAST PAGES
INEZ & VINOODH EDWARD URRUTIA
STEVEN CHEE ANDREAS ÖHLUND

142 APRIL 2017


BEN GORHAM, FOUNDER
Byredo
When Ben Gorham was fresh out of art school, he had
a chance encounter with a perfumer that sparked his foray
into fragrance. “My initial fascination came from learning
about the ability smell has to evoke emotion. We live in
a very visually inclined world, so coming across an
invisible medium with so much power was very
exciting for me at the time,” says the native
Swede, who has been dubbed the fragrance
industry’s progressive minimalist since
launching Byredo in 2006. From the
BYREDO ROSE
brand’s clean, dome-capped flacons to its OF NO MAN’S
melange of unlikely combinations – think LAND EDP,
100ML FOR $240.
pink pepper and white amber; carrot
and vanilla bean – Gorham’s
offering is not only niche, it’s
intentionally gender-neutral.
“I never consider gender when
creating Byredo products. To me,
all gender-related conventions in
fragrance are outdated and I feel
people are starting to understand
that our notions of what is
gender-specific comes from
marketing and commercial
programming.”

LEO GIBBON, FOUNDER


TOMI AHMED, CREATIVE
DIRECTOR
Iiuvo
“Bullshit” isn’t a phrase typically associated with the
beauty industry, but Leo Gibbon and Tomi Ahmed of
pioneering candle brand Iiuvo stand to change that.
The duo found an unlikely market for their disruptive
approach to naming products and minimalist
sensibility. “It was a case of wanting to create what
we felt was missing, as cliched as that sounds,” says
Ahmed, who started his career in visual merchandising
at Comme des Garçon. After launching their first three
candles – Emmie, Woodgrain and Ajon – the pair
collaborated with artist Stefan Brüggemann on the
Bullshit candle, a runaway success. “People were
apprehensive and thought we didn’t
have a clue about what we were
doing, but once we started to
really develop the language,
the early apprehensive thoughts
changed,” says Gibbon. “We
unintentionally challenge the
status quo of the industry type
and challenge the perception of
what one should look, talk or
Tomi Ahmed (left) be like,” he says. And no-one
and Leo Gibbon. is calling bullshit on that.
Backstage
at Mary
Katrantzou.

MIDDLE
PART At Versace.

At Michael
Kors.
SIDE At Dries
PART Van Noten.

At Oscar
de la Renta.

Parting ways
Left, right or somewhere down the middle
– the seemingly simple decision of where
to part your hair makes the world of
difference to your look. By Remy Rippon.
raping me in a black cape and observing my post-hair-

D wash reflection in the mirror, my hairstylist, John,


combs back my strands in the same way my mother
would when I was five, then asks the inevitable
question: “Which side do you part your hair?” “Kind of here,”
I respond, pointing vaguely left-of-centre. Backstage
Truth be told, I’ve been hovering in a state of “partlessness” for At Prada. at Balmain.
some time, flicking my tresses from side to side and in turn,
confusing my hair’s natural ability to find its groove. The minute models sleep their way through much of the styling process ahead
my follicle memory knows where to fall, I flick it to other side, of the Michael Kors show. “I told all the models to sleep with
forcing it to be unpredictable and most importantly, not fall flat damp hair the night before the show for a just-woke-up look with
on my scalp. But after John took the metal tip of his comb and minimal styling easily pulled into a deep side part,” says Pita.
etched a military-precise track from my hairline to the left of my Celebrities, meanwhile, know a change of part can go so far as
crown, I felt an immediate sense of newness. to turn their careers around. Take Sienna Miller, whose centre-
If the spring/summer ’17 runways were anything to go by, it’s a parted, bohemian-cum-Brigitte Bardot tresses helped push her
step in the right direction. At Balmain, models like Gigi Hadid profile into the spotlight and inspired a slew of copycats (myself
and Josephine Skriver were issued a part so deep-set it almost included) keen to emanate her effortless aesthetic. That was until
aligned with the outer corner of their eyes. Likewise, at Dries 2014, when London-based hairstylist Luke Hersheson lopped her
Van Noten, hairstylist Sam McKnight offset smokescreen mid-length tresses into a choppy bob made utterly fresh by a wide
eyeshadow with a left side part that felt more girlie than tough side part that gave the illusion it had settled there from simply
INDIGITAL

and asserted the notion that while a definitive part is ultimately being combed through her fingers. Needless to say that with this
put together, it’s never laborious. Just ask Orlando Pita, who let new look, film roles soon followed.

144 APRIL 2017


VOGUE PROMOTION

EYES
DON’T LIE
It sounds dramatic, but the skin around the
eyes ages faster than other areas of the face.
Stay bright-eyed with the Olay Eyes range.

When it comes to the signs of ageing, especially for the sensitive skin around
the eyes are a giveaway. The delicate the eyes. Olay Eyes Pro-Retinol Eye
skin around your peepers acts as a lie Treatment contains vitamins B3, Pro-B5
detector when it comes to bad behaviour and E, and Pro-Retinol to reduce the
(too much wine, too little water), and appearance of eye wrinkles in four
also gives away one other piece of vital weeks. To help alleviate dark circles,
information: your age. Olay Eyes Illuminating Eye Cream
While crow’s-feet are testament to features light-reflecting pigments, amino
the thousands of belly laughs, smiles peptides and N-acetyl glucosamine.
and sunny summer days that came Olay Eyes Ultimate Eye Cream is
FROM LEFT: OLAY
before them, looking fresh-faced is a formulated with vitamin B3, amino EYES PRO-RETINOL
priority for most women, regardless of peptides and colour-correcting technology EYE TREATMENT, OLAY
EYES ULTIMATE EYE
how many candles she blows out on her that blends with your skin tone to reduce CREAM AND OLAY
EYES ILLUMINATING EYE
birthday cake. puffiness, lines and dark circles. CREAM, $48.99 EACH.
As your body doesn’t produce in the eye The launch of Olay Eyes offers a
area the same amount of oil that helps the complete daily regimen for targeting
rest of your face stay wrinkle-free for eye-area concerns – and as we know,
longer, it’s important to start a skincare you won’t be able to hide it if you don’t
routine that focuses on eyes in your 20s. start treating your eyes right, stat.
Olay has launched Olay Eyes, a Olay Eyes products are available at
three-product collection designed Priceline and other leading retailers.
Backstage
at Oscar
de la Renta.

MASON
“A part line should be fun to change and doesn’t need to be But that’s not to say hair type doesn’t PEARSON
TAIL
drastic, so don’t ever be afraid to experiment,” enthuses hairstylist have an influence. “If you weren’t blessed COMB,
$30.
Anthony Nader, noting the versatility of a part. “Work with your with masses of strands and your hair is on the
growth patterns, especially if you have a cowlick, and then you finer side, always be aware of directing your part
can keep in the guidelines of that direct line for safe measure or line too far over,” says Nader. “Aim to stick as close to
exaggerate the part to swing further over if you want to make the centre or off-centre as possible, then both sides of the
a bigger fashion statement.” hair will be balanced.” Nader adds that the part line can
And like our fashion choices, where you part your hair can be also be a powerful tool to balance asymmetric features: “If
a powerful form of non-verbal communication. A study dubbed the tip of your nose is pointing to the left, you can make it
the Hair Part Theory, found that where appear centred by directing the part
a person parts their hair can impact other’s line over to the right.”
perception of them. It found: “The way a “A PART LINE So how does one aim to amend a
person parts [his or her] hair is related to line that has maintained its position
many subconscious associations when SHOULD BE for decades? Like a plant that’s been
assessed by others. Each hair part type FUN TO reaching in the direction of the sun’s
initiates cycles of behaviour toward, and
response from, the individual.”
CHANGE AND rays, it will take some time for the
natural course of the hair shaft to
The study theorised that people who choose DOESN’T NEED pivot. Speed up the process by drawing
to part their hair on the right are
unconsciously emphasising characteristics
TO BE DRASTIC, a line into wet hair and securing it
in a low ponytail overnight. Come
associated with the right side of the brain, SO DON’T EVER morning, release the band and add
such as creativity, while people who part left BE AFRAID TO natural texture via a volume spray like
are subconsciously assessed by others as being Eleven I Want Body Volume Spray. If
EXPERIMENT”
INDIGITAL JAMES COCHRANE EDWARD URRUTIA

more aligned with left-brain behaviours such a quick fix is in order, apply strong-
ALL PRICES APPROXIMATE DETAILS LAST PAGES

as logic and science. The jury is out on what hold hairspray or a dry shampoo (we
a centre part indicates, or what it means if, like me, you’re a love Oribe Gold Lust Dry Shampoo) directly to the roots
habitual hair flicker, jumping from left side to right multiple and disperse with a comb in the new direction of the hair.
times a day. Haven’t had time for a colour? A part can help with that
However, that’s precisely the point: a part line shouldn’t be a too. “If you’re poor on time and want those dreaded roots
decision made during childhood (usually by a parent or covered up, opt for a haphazard part line rather than
hairdresser) and adhered to for life. Versatility is why parting a strict line,” says Nader.
one’s hair is a fundamental in styling lore. Consider it the beauty With my fresh head of highlights, the defined part line
world’s equivalent of a neckline: functional yet adaptable, John has drawn is appropriate. I feel like someone’s hit
effortless yet dramatic. And unlike hemlines and hair length, age refresh – the feeling akin to a new haircut, proving that all
will never dictate how a part should be worn. I had needed was for someone to impart a part. ■

146 APRIL 2017


VOGUE BEAUTY

Primary
cause
FELINE
BY VOLUME MILLION LASHES
Karlie Kloss.

THE FIERCEST CAT EYE LOOK


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MODEL-TURNED-MOGUL
KARLIE KLOSS IS
THE CEO OF HER
OWN DESTINY.
BY ZARA WONG.
STYLED BY CHRISTINE Saint Laurent by Anthony
CENTENERA. Vaccarello dress and
earrings, P.O.A. Cartier
PHOTOGRAPHED ring, $107,000. All prices
approximate; fashion
BY BENNY HORNE. details last pages.

152 APRIL 2017


Balenciaga top, $915,
pants, P.O.A., and
shoes, $1,000.
Holly Ryan earrings,
$360. Georg Jensen
ring, $23,700.
L
eaning back in her chair, Karlie Kloss is looking out the one who made this seemingly dry technical skill come to life
the floor-to-ceiling windows across the Sydney for me.” She and Flombaum discussed how his teachings could
cityscape. “You know, maybe the next time you be shared beyond the stereotypical scope of a male-only audience,
speak to me, somewhere like this will be my office,” with Kloss confident she could pass on the message to her fans,
she says with an impish smile, waving her hands from young women to girls.
around the space with a flourish. “I’ll be the CEO, “I feel a real responsibility to get the girls who are paying
with a big boardroom, the corner office.” Even attention to me interested in these important skills that can
though she is laughing while she is saying this, I am certain she transform their future and help bring them into an industry
is completely serious. where there is a real disconnect and disproportionate number of
Everything about Kloss visually clocks in as supermodel, a men to women in the field.”
self-evidence that would not pass anyone by. Exhibit A: here After her enlightenment with coding, she launched the
photographed for Vogue Australia on Bondi Beach. All long initiative Kode with Klossy, personally underwriting scholarships
limbs and the subtlest angles, delicate features arranged perfectly for girls to learn coding and generally becoming the poster girl
so, letting her flit from gamine to sophisticate with the raise of an for almost every woman working in or around technology. She
eyebrow, a wrist angled here or there. was met with naysayers, who couldn’t grasp the connection
She is the girl plucked from St Louis, Minnesota, to walk between her profile and her desire to get girls into coding.
exclusively for Calvin Klein, propelling her to the upper echelons “I’m sure people underestimate me all the time, but that only
of the fashion world. Bearing all the hallmarks of a classic motivates me to prove them wrong and to actually beat them
successful model, she has walked for every major fashion show at their own game,” she tells me. “And, I have this sense
and appeared in countless campaigns and magazine covers. This of  competition with myself to be the best I can at whatever
is her third for Vogue Australia, and I’m trying to do, and to take the path
36th internationally. less trodden.”
“I’ve been modelling for a decade,” she’ll “I’M SURE PEOPLE It wasn’t her first philanthropic
say as a fallback, as though she is a little endeavour. A keen baker, Kloss collaborated
bashful about having worked so long given
UNDERESTIMATE with Momofuku Milk Bar’s Christina Tosi
that she is only 24 years old. “I feel so ME ALL THE TIME, on a cookie line, Karlie’s Kookies, with the
mature being able to say that I’ve been
modelling for 10 years!”
BUT THAT ONLY aim of raising funds to provide meals to
disadvantaged children around the world.
However triumphant her modelling MOTIVATES ME TO Baking had long been a hobby of hers, but
career has been, it is underselling Kloss
herself to allow it to be the main focus. Off
PROVE THEM she took it to the next level and its success
proved that her interests were worth being
set, she returns to being the Karlie Kloss WRONG AND BEAT taken seriously.
the world knows as a coder, baker, THEM AT THEIR Kloss’s work in the technology space has
entrepreneur, philanthropist and student at reverberated around the world, including
New York University. Model-turned-
OWN GAME” Australia, where Vogue launched the Vogue
mogul isn’t the most far-fetched of career Codes summit last year to highlight and
transitions, one marked along the way with neon signs bearing celebrate women working in technology. (During the two-day
names such as Elle Macpherson and Tyra Banks. But Kloss’s inaugural event, Karlie Kloss’s name came up repeatedly:
brand extensions into computer programming and baking are #girlcrushgoals.) “It’s just the beginning, and hopefully we’re
more left-of-field (not a make-up line or exaltation of beauty in building Kode with Klossy in the right direction,” she says
sight). And essentially, it is all the more sincere. “I don’t want to earnestly. “I underestimated how many girls would be aware of
be complacent, and I don’t want to just be one thing,” says Kloss the importance of it and there are so many bright young minds
of her curiosity and unwillingness to accept a single label. who are aware of how powerful it can be to take part in shaping
While she enjoyed juggling the final four years of high school the future with technology.”
with modelling, she was left dissatisfied when her modelling Kloss is perhaps the only person to have a profile on both
career turned full-time following graduation. “So, instead of Models.com and technology news site TechCrunch, and has the
giving up because I was not challenged anymore, I actually experience and kudos to speak about technology beyond the
reversed it on its head and saw all the opportunities to use this as world of social media. She’s aware of the image it has, too, and
a platform to do so many other things that I am passionate about, keenly addresses it in her content and positioning. “There is
even if I don’t have anything to do with fashion.” a misconception about what coding is, and I think that’s part of
And the girl knows what she’s talking about. Proficient in the problem,” she explains. “A lot of people don’t have this basic
HTML, CSS and Javascript and now learning Swift, a coding understanding of how technology works. It’s the way our world
language for building apps in iOS, she visibly lights up when works and we’re continuing to move in that direction, so I think
speaking about it, enamoured by technology’s scope for creativity. having the coding skills means that you can take part in the
Her first foray into computer programming came from meeting evolution of how industries are shaped, because that’s what’s
BENNY HORNE

Avi Flombaum, dean and co-founder of the Flatiron School, happening right now.”
a “coding bootcamp” in New York, with whom she soon spent six While in Australia to shoot with Vogue and to launch David
months taking private lessons. “I just wanted to learn,” she says. Jones’s new season campaign, she is also swotting up for an
“I needed something to do and needed a new challenge. He was upcoming class on feminism at NYU’s Gallatin School of

156 APRIL 2017


Miu Miu swimsuit, $1,720,
and skirt, $1,520. On right
hand: Georg Jensen rings,
$2,795, $1,150 and $6,500.
Tiffany & Co. ring, $290.
On left hand: Swarovski
ring, $179, sold in a set.
Swarovski ring, $199.
Christian Louboutin
shoes, $945.
BENNY HORNE

Emilio Pucci bodysuit


and shoes, P.O.A. Proenza
Schouler earrings, $795.
Paspaley bracelet, $98,800.
Kailis ring, $7,700.
Gucci dress, $3,995, and
leggings, $1,725. Cerrone
earrings, $29,500. On right
hand: Swarovski ring, $249.
BENNY HORNE

On left hand: Bulgari ring,


$24,700. Hardy Brothers
ring, $19,499. Hardy
Brothers ring, $11,599.
Paul Andrew shoes, $970.
Individualized Study. “I’m a nerd!” she says proudly. She will also siphon that wholesome all-American vibrancy into an Oscar de la
be a correspondent on Bill Nye Saves the World, a talk show Renta society hostess or a Versace-clad power woman. We’re in
presented by the titular American television host and science the age of the side hustle, where conventional job descriptions and
educator. “Certain things at school have always come naturally to barriers are disintegrating. Where the model-slashie might have
me, like maths and science,” Kloss says, which on its own reads been met with derision a few years ago, the evolved model-and-
as less than humble, but she is so straightforward and endearingly something-else such as Kloss is making outside forays a respected
truthful about it that it demands respect. “I was always one of the achievement. Kloss is the mascot for the smart-girl-done-good.
top students in my class, but creative skills have always been Crediting her parents for her sense of entrepreneurship, she
something I’ve struggled with.” thinks back to the family road trips where the audiobook of
financial self-help best-seller Rich Dad Poor Dad would be played

K
loss credits her career in fashion with helping hone on repeat. “The whole series!” she declares. “All my sisters would
her creativity (“it’s been a unique education”), zone out with their headphones, but I’d be such a nerd and be
which she now exerts over her personal social fascinated by the idea of being your own boss and building
media and content platforms. Remembering a time something that can scale, and that’s why I was so interested to get
in fashion before Instagram and Twitter, she has into tech and learn about what creates the fabric behind all these
observed how the industry has embraced them and tech companies,” she enthuses.
applied the skills to her own career. “Instagram “I’m ambitious to build Kode with Klossy to be big and far-
wasn’t invented then. The instantaneous access to runway shows reaching, and also ambitious to build a business,” she says while
has had such an impact, and we have all had discussing Vogue Australia’s initiative Vogue
to rethink how to connect with the audience.” Codes. She is friendly with many people in
The first few years she was “seen but not heard “INSECURITY the tech world through her personal interests
– I barely spoke!” she says, laughing. But HAS DRIVEN ME as well as her boyfriend, Joshua Kushner
through her YouTube channel, Instagram,
Snapchat and Twitter – the basic millennial
TO WANT TO (brother to Jared Kushner, the husband of
Ivanka Trump), who co-founded Thrive
diet – she has taken control of her own PROVE MYSELF. Capital, a venture capital firm with
narrative. “You can create whatever persona
you want, and it’s not exclusive to models.
IT’S IMPORTANT investments in Instagram, Slack and the
Flatiron School.
That has been really empowering.” BECAUSE YOU’RE Kloss displays such clarity in her drive and
It may be difficult to fathom, but Kloss
insists it took her years to develop her
ONLY GETTING goals that she is open about seeking out
advice from her mentors, including Diane
confidence. She recently appeared on the IN YOUR OWN von Furstenberg and Christy Turlington,
cover of business technology magazine Fast WAY IF YOU who wrote her a letter of recommendation to
Company, discussing her work in the tech
space and extending her personal brand. “For
DON’T BELIEVE NYU (“and many other people who are not
famous!” she interjects. “I email them, meet
a fashion shoot I love transforming into a IN YOURSELF” them at their office, go have coffee …”).
character, but for the Fast Company cover, it’s Kloss is famously polite. “First and foremost,
me. I felt more vulnerable in a way, and almost a bit naked,” she you have to be grateful and genuine but also persistent,” she says.
says, while acknowledging the irony of having a career that “I was apprehensive about asking for someone’s time, but I’ve
depends on being photographed. been surprised by how much people want to help and give back.”
“There was a pivotal point where I had to grow into who I was. As to what her future company will look like, she knows it’ll
I’m still growing into who I am and hopefully will continue. The have a philanthropic element, and she’s interested in reach and
insecurity has driven me to keep wanting to prove it to myself. scale. “Ultimately I will be creating something that helps people
It’s so important because you’re only getting in your own way if in a big or small way. It’s very general.” Her team of eight staff
you don’t believe in yourself.” members across Kode with Klossy and her YouTube channel
She talks a lot about what’s important: important in her life, work out of her private apartment, but will soon be moving to
her career, within herself. When she says the word important, more permanent offices in Soho. “So grown-up! It’s so exciting.
it is defiantly enunciated, suggesting that she has reached a point I love having that entrepreneurial spirit.”
in her life where she has the power to prioritise. She is now like a I interviewed Kloss years before she launched Karlie’s Kookies
Cindy or a Kate, where she is known by her first name alone, so or Kode with Klossy, and note she has maintained the same
she can afford to be selective with projects and choose to walk curiosity and optimism. Some may attribute it to her youthfulness,
only a handful of runways. but for her it’s not about age, it’s something within. She says she
What will her success say about our time now? Each era has had has never felt like her learning and personal evolution are
a beauty who has, with hindsight, symbolically captured the complete; the competition with herself and her inner drive are
mood of the times, from the stylish elegance of Dovima in the constantly lit. Working on her numerous projects, she says she
1950s, to the liberty and youthfulness of Twiggy and Penelope still feels like she hasn’t quite completed her game plan.
BENNY HORNE

Tree encapsulating the 60s. Kloss is renowned for her versatility “In the same way that Diane is a mentor and a friend to me, at
and athleticism, sharpened after years of ballet training. It has one point someone was to her, so I hope to someday do that for
taught her how to manipulate her body, making her look even anybody who wants advice. But I have to make it first!”
longer and leaner than her 188-centimetre frame, and how to Get ready for Karlie Inc. ■

164 APRIL 2017


Ellery coat, $3,560. Nehera
dress, $760, from Playa by
Lucy Folk. Annie Costello
Brown earrings, $225.
Proenza Schouler bag,
$2,850. On right hand:
Jane D’Arensbourg rings,
$700 and $150. On left
hand: Jane D’Arensbourg
rings, $140 each. Wolford
tights, $79, from Wolford
Melbourne. Vetements x
Manolo Blahnik boots,
$1,735. All prices
approximate; fashion
details last pages.

166 APRIL 2017


Balenciaga coat, $2,785,
shirt, $695, skirt, $945,
earrings, $178, bag,
$1,695, and boots,
$1,895. Adriana Orsini
brooches, $75, $60 and
$60. On right hand:
All Blues rings, $260 and
$180. On left hand: Jane
D’Arensbourg ring, $190.

DON’T
YOU
WANT
ME,
BABY?
SYNTHPOP,
LAYERED
LEATHER,
TAILORED
TRENCH
COATS
AND LONG
BOOTS.
COVER UP.
THE NEW
DISCOGRAPHY.
STYLED BY
NATASHA ROYT.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY
SEBASTIAN KIM.
VOGUE.COM.AU 167
SEBASTIAN KIM

VOGUE.COM.AU 169
Prada coat, $4,100. A.L.C
shirt, $365. Salvatore
Ferragamo skirt, $2,350. All
Blues earring, $430. Kenneth
Jay Lane brooch, $399.
Vetements x Levi’s belt, $765,
from Parlour X. On right
arm: Annie Costello Brown
bracelet, $150. All Blues rings,
$260 each. On left arm: Jane
D’Arensbourg bracelets, $600
SEBASTIAN KIM

each. Wolford tights, $79,


from Wolford Melbourne.
Vetements x Manolo Blahnik
boots, $1,735.

170 APRIL 2017


Louis Vuitton dress,
P.O.A., and boots,
$3,650. Annie
Costello Brown
earrings, $219. Jane
D’Arensbourg bracelet,
$575. Charlotte
Chesnais bracelet,
$1,509. Wolford
tights, $79, from
Wolford Melbourne.
Beauty note: Max
Factor Marilyn
Monroe Lipstick
Collection lipstick in
Marilyn Berry Red.
Loewe top, $5,150, and
skirt, P.O.A. Jil Sander
earrings, P.O.A.
Kenneth Jay Lane
brooch, $165. On
right hand: Jane
D’Arensbourg ring,
$250. On left hand:
Jane D’Arensbourg
ring, $280. Vetements
x Manolo Blahnik
boots, $1,735.
Burberry Prorsum trench
coat, $3,695. Prada top,
$920. Agmes earring,
$430. Louis Vuitton
necklace, P.O.A., and
bracelet, P.O.A. Saint
Laurent belt, $285.
SEBASTIAN KIM
SEBASTIAN KIM

VOGUE.COM.AU 175
The cast of Girls, from left, Zosia
Mamet, Jemima Kirke, Allison
Williams and Lena Dunham,
reunited weeks after filming their
final episode. Mamet wears a
Hillier Bartley waistcoat, blouse
and pants. Maison Michel hat.
Kirke wears a Burberry top and
pants. La Perla bra. Smith + Mara
earrings. Doyle & Doyle antique
necklace. Williams wears a The
Perfext dress. H.Stern earrings.
Dunham wears an Olivia von
Halle top. Jil Sander pants.
Fashion details last pages.

178 APRIL 2017


The HBO series captured what it’s like to
work, navigate friendships and hook up as
a twentysomething. In honour of its final
season, the stars sit for the ultimate exit
interview. Styled by Jillian Davison.
Photographed by Emma Summerton.

VOGUE.COM.AU 179
W
hen Girls premiered on HBO, the world Jemima Kirke: “Okay, thank you. The least and the most
was a different place. Sure, single-gal satisfying thing about my job was my relationship with Lena.
shows like The Mary Tyler Moore Show [Laughter.] In a good way. It definitely caused us to get closer
and Murphy Brown had laid the [after 15 years of friendship], and it caused us to fight. And then
groundwork for then 25-year-old Lena at the end of it, you know, [our relationship] was nicer.”
Dunham’s creation. But Dunham Jenni: “Everyone, take your cue from Jemima and be brutally
made clear in the first episode that honest. [Laughter.] All right. Allison?”
neither her character, Hannah, nor Jessa (Jemima Kirke) nor Allison Williams: “I started playing one person, then she
Marnie (Allison Williams) nor Shoshanna (Zosia Mamet) would evolved so much. I got to exercise all kinds of muscles. The least
be a Sex and the City fantasy. When chirpy Shoshanna tells Jessa: satisfying? I always wanted to be in the show more. [Laughter.]
“You’re definitely like a Carrie, but with like, some Samantha That was my MO every year. I wanted to be a piece of furniture
aspects and Charlotte hair,” Jessa shoots her a look that just says: in Hannah’s apartment, if that’s what it took.”
“No.” This show would be different. Girls is fiction, obviously. Jenni: “Jemima just said: ‘That’s so typical.’ And I was about
But it has been committed to portraying life, for the most part, to say: ‘That’s so on-brand.’”
as it is. The characters look like people, not actors who spend AW: “Listen, I’m consistent.”
every waking second working out or tanning. The apartments Jenni: “You are nothing if not consistent. Zosia?”
they inhabit are dim and cramped. Their panic about work, Zosia Mamet: “The most satisfying part was getting to play a
money and love is relatable, the sex they have is awkward and person who was so intrinsically opposite of me in, like, every atom
they go to the bathroom, a lot. At times watching the characters of my being. The dissatisfying thing was that I came to know
flail around can get uncomfortable, but then they reel you back this human that I created. And love her. And now I miss her.”
in with a spot-on joke. “Nobody tells you how bad it’s going to be LD: “I think the most satisfying part was learning to treasure
in the real world,” moans Shoshanna in season four. “Yeah, they collaboration. When I went into the job, I had fear about letting
do,” Marnie snaps. “It’s pretty much all they ever tell you.” other people into my process. So whether it was becoming
It is a comedy, after all. But from the start Girls intentionally partners with you, Jenni, and realising that I had a lifelong
pushed buttons. There’s nudity, which Dunham has explained is creative partner, which isn’t something that I ever expected to
her way of trying to normalise real women’s bodies, homosexuality, have in my life based on being raised by parents who went into a
and a character who is “super chill”, as the website Jezebel put it, studio alone and acted like art was a solitary activity. Or building
about getting an abortion. Because of that, conservative critics my relationships with Allison and Zosia and learning to listen
began to rage against it almost immediately. “If, as [Dunham’s] when they had a note and not become defensive. Or the hardest,
character suggests in the show’s first episode, she is the voice of learning to listen to Jemima, because I always felt like she was,
her generation, then one could seriously argue that we’re doomed,” like, six steps from murdering me and I had to protect myself.
the National Review warned in 2013. In hindsight it seems that But all of that helped me learn the satisfying thing of opening up
perhaps its detractors saw before anyone else what a force Girls and understanding that other people’s concepts of their characters,
would be and how it would permeate our culture. The internet their ideas, are just as valuable as mine.”
roiled with Girls think pieces and interviews with the intelligent Jenni: “And least satisfying?”
cast, all of whom made a point of identifying as feminists and LD: “Sometimes I would get very lonely, because I wanted to be
encouraged others to do so. Travelling to Texas with Dunham in a part of the group, but there was also the element of, like, having
2014 for a profile, I was startled by the size of the crowds at events to boss people around. And we would be doing all this as a team,
for her book, Not That Kind of Girl, which she held in conjunction [but] if we got criticism, I felt like it would all come down on me
with Planned Parenthood, a favoured cause. Since then Dunham in this shit-storm torrent. Even though I was surrounded by love,
has further immersed herself in politics; she was one of Hillary there were times where I felt very ‘by myself’ in the process.”
Clinton’s most vocal campaign surrogates. Meanwhile, Kirke Jenni: “I’m just gonna say, the hardest part of my job was just
advocated for the Center for Reproductive Rights, candidly trying to get you guys not to get haircuts and tattoos!
sharing her own abortion story; Mamet wrote about her struggles [Laughter.] What would you change about the job?”
with an eating disorder in Glamour; and, as an ambassador to JK: “Ugh, I think season two.”
Horizons National, Williams focused on closing the education gap. LD: “That was the season where you said I had to get out of your
Last year all four women released a public service announcement dressing room or you were gonna punch me, Jem.”
urging support for sexual-assault survivors. JK: “Season two was kind of traumatic for me.”
Girls isn’t going to go out lightly in its last season. And the LD: “I think it’s time for us to disclose to the world that, like,
show’s legacy will be felt long after it goes off the air. Dunham three days before season two, Jemima tried to quit.” [Laughter.]
and Girls’ executive producer Jenni Konner, who interviews the JK: “Yeah. My sense of who I was and what I wanted was really
cast below, have made it their mission to deepen the bench of thin. I really wasn’t sure what the fuck I was doing.”
women storytellers by founding a newsletter, Lenny Letter, and LD: “I remember being in a cab. And Jemima called me. She was
a production company, A Casual Romance Productions. like: ‘I have to tell you something. It’s not a big deal. I don’t want
With that, Jenni, take it away. Jessica Pressler you to freak out. I want to quit the show.’” [Laughter.]
Jenni: “Zosia, what would you change?”
Jenni Konner: “Here’s the idea: When you leave a job, they ZM: “Oh, fuck. That’s so hard. So much of my day-to-day work
do something called an exit interview. I want to ask you on the show was my attempt to try and find Shoshanna. I think
EMMA SUMMERTON

questions from an actual exit interview and the company I had a lot of anxiety that I wouldn’t hit her tone right.”
we’re going to talk about is Girls. So. Hi, guys. Welcome.” Jenni: “But you invented her tone.”
Lena Dunham: “Hi, Jennifer.” ZM: “It was such a surprise to me that that [character] came out of
Jenni: “I’m going to start with Jemima. What was the most me. I was so all-encompassed in getting it right that I think I lost
satisfying thing about your job, and the least satisfying?” some of the ‘relishing the moment’ of being in the scenes.”

180 APRIL 2017


“THE MOST SATISFYING
PART WAS GETTING TO
PLAY A PERSON WHO WAS
SO INTRINSICALLY
OPPOSITE OF ME”

Zosia Mamet wears


a Vince T-shirt. Dior
skirt and sneakers.
Dana Rebecca
Designs earrings.

VOGUE.COM.AU 181
Jemima Kirke wears a
Preen dress and slip.
Smith + Mara earrings.
Doyle & Doyle antique
necklace. Larkspur
& Hawk bracelet.
Salvatore Ferragamo’s
Creations shoes.

182 APRIL 2017


“MAKING MY
DEAL WITH
HBO AS A
23-YEAR-OLD
WOMAN, I
FELT THAT I
HAD SO MUCH
TO PROVE”
EMMA SUMMERTON

Lena Dunham wears


a Fenty Puma by
Rihanna hoodie
dress and boots.
Early Halloween
vintage boa.

VOGUE.COM.AU 183
“THE ENTIRE SHOW
WAS A REAL
EXERCISE IN TRUST
AND LACK OF
CONTROL FOR ME”

Allison Williams wears a Prada


jacket, shirt, pants and belt.
Hair for Dunham: Rheanne
White; all others:
Tamara McNaughton
Make-up for Dunham and
Mamet: Romy Soleimani;
for Williams and
Kirke: Fulvia Farolfi
Manicures: Alicia Torello

184 APRIL 2017


Jenni: “Allison?” LD: “She did. And she would call for reservations and clothes.”
AW: “What would I change? The entire show was a real exercise JK: “I was just like: ‘Hey, I’m a publicist. I’m calling on behalf of
in trust and lack of control for me. And so three seasons ago, one Jemima Kirke on HBO’s Girls.’” [Laughter.]
I probably would have said I wish I had been a writer and producer Jenni: “Allison?”
on the show. [Laughter.] Have some element of control. But now AW: “Well, we were very well compensated, which was a real
I know that it would have driven me to an early insane asylum. I privilege. Putting aside the fact that it’s nice to be well paid … it
don’t have the skill that Lena does, which is to be able to extricate allowed me to be selective [with other projects] and thus much
myself from my own body as I’m writing my character.” more creatively fulfilled.”
Jenni: “Okay, Lena? What would you change?” LD: “There are a lot of shows where the dudes make a lot more
LD: “Making my deal with HBO as a 23-year-old woman, I felt fucking money than the girls. And we were on a show where the
that I had so much to prove. I felt like I had to be the person who girls were the thing.”
answered emails the fastest, stayed up the latest, worked the Jenni: “And they got paid for being the thing. What do you
hardest. As much as I loved my job, I really, like, injured myself think your favourite memory will be at this company? Jemima?”
in some ways. If I had felt like: ‘You’re worthy of eight hours of JK: “My best day was the day that I experienced what it’s like to
sleep, not four; you’re worthy of turning your phone off on a be picked up [in the air] by Adam Driver.” [Laughter.]
Saturday’, I don’t think it would have changed the outcome of LD: “I like it too. Adam Driver cradled me like a motherfucking
the show. [But] I could have worked with a sense of joy and baby for, like, eight takes, and I won’t lie, it felt good.”
excitement, rather than guilt and anxiety of being ‘found out.’ JK: “You know the big thing that you jump over in gymnastics?”
The advice I would give any woman going into a job if she has a Jenni: “The vault.”
sense of impostor syndrome would be: there will be nothing if JK: “That’s Adam Driver. [Laughter.] Like, you can just run and
you don’t look out for you. And I can’t wait, on my next project, jump on it. It doesn’t move, and it supports you fully.”
to go into it with the strength that comes from, like, valuing your LD: “It’s like a hot-ass future-Oscar-winning vault. I’m glad we live
own body and your own mental health.” in a world where women can reduce men to vaults … I also didn’t
Jenni: “What do you think it takes to succeed at this company?” mind being laid across, like, a satiny bed by Patrick Wilson while he
JK: “Communication, obviously. It is a workspace, but it’s creative. stared at me like I was like a queen from heaven. Like, I’m not
Like, we’re all putting so much of ourselves into this. And feelings immune to that shit. But my best memory – I hope this isn’t too
do get hurt. You need communication.” personal, Jenni – it was on our last episode. You and I got in a small
ZM: “In order to succeed, all you had to do was really show up argument. Went in a room. And we managed to cry, apologise
prepared, and ready to be open and a part of the team.” and work it out within three minutes, then go back to work.”
LD: “Gotta show up to play.” Jenni: “And then everyone outside was like: ‘We heard you
AW: “And a willingness to thrust your ego aside and say yes. You got in a huge fight.’”
guys said: ‘Jump’ and I would say: ‘How high?’” LD: “Huge fight! But I was so proud. I saw the seven years of
LD: “What it takes to succeed at the company? Bravery. Not just hard work we put into [perfecting our communication] because
the bravery to do a scene that might be uncomfortable or to take we fucking super-processed.”
your clothes off. But also the bravery to be like: ‘I have a question.’ ZM: “Not to be dark and Wednesday Addams again, but my last
To admit when you’re not sure about something, so that we can day, which was also Jemima’s last day, hit so hard: the tidal wave
come together and make it better.” of true sadness. But in the weirdest way, it’s such a happy memory.
Jenni: “Al, did your job duties turn out to be as you expected?” Before the age of 30, I got to spend six years on such a joyous
AW: “I associated sets with a high-drama atmosphere. To my experience that it caused that type of grief at its funeral.”
enormous relief, the cast was the source of almost zero drama, with LD: “If you’re sad, Zosia’s an amazing person to text for a quote.
the exception of one very abrupt departure [of actor Christopher I was having issues with the loss of a relationship, and she texted
Abbott, who played Williams’s boyfriend Charlie].” me: ‘We may be soulmates for life, or only a train ride. But it just
Jenni: “But we’ve healed. We’ve all healed.” changes your life no matter what.’ Zosia is Oprah.”
LD: “I text him all the time. And he texts back! Yeah. I feel the Jenni: “Would you work for this company in the future?”
same thing as Al. I remember telling people we were doing the JK: “That’s like if someone asked me: ‘Would you like to go back
show, and they were like: ‘Who’s on it?’ And I was like: ‘It’s all of to college?’ Of course I would. ’Cause I would finally do it right.
our first job, and we’re all 24.’ And everyone was like: ‘Good luck.’ So yes, I would do it all over again.”
[Laughter.] And I thought, at a certain point in the second season, AW: “I would 100 per cent come back, because, one, I’m spoiled
I was gonna have to sit you girls down and be like: ‘Listen, bitches. by the scripts. To start your career with these scripts is a weird
You’re lucky to have a job. So get it together and cut out this albatross. Every time I read a script by anyone else, I’m like: ‘Oh,
behaviour!’ Like: ‘If you’re spotted out with Jared Leto one more come on. This is not good.’ I will always trust your judgement as
time, this is done.’ [Laughter.] And then everyone was just nice. a show-running operation.”
Jemima and I fought sometimes because we’ve been close since we ZM: “So often you work on another project and there’s that feeling
were 11, and that’s one of the things you do when you’re family.” of, like: ‘I think it’s gonna be good, and I hope that they want to
Jenni: “Okay. Next question: Were you happy with your pay, cut together my scene in a pleasant way.’ But there isn’t just innate,
benefits and other incentives?” [Laughter.] intrinsic trust that exists of, like: ‘Oh, no matter what happens on
ZM: “This might be too dark. But being sort of an orphan child, set, even if we all vomited, we would still make a good show.’”
without, like, parental figures, it was incredibly pleasant to be LD: “And sometimes we did vomit.”
EMMA SUMMERTON

surrounded by human beings whose job on a daily basis was to ZM: “We were allowed to grow. Not only as ourselves, but as
take care of me. I was eating up that parental substitution love.” characters. And if I got to do that for the rest of my life, I would
JK: “Benefits of being on the job? I’m not mad about a good table die a happy woman.” ■

at a restaurant. Do you know I actually [pretended to be] my own Jenni Konner is an executive producer of HBO’s Girls and
publicist when I didn’t have one?” co-founder of Lenny Letter.

VOGUE.COM.AU 185
IMAGES COURTESY OF NGV KRÖLLER-MÜLLER
AND VAN GOGH MUSEUM
IN
SEASON
A new exhibition delves into
Vincent van Gogh’s profound
connection to nature and its
extraordinary expression on
canvas. By Sophie Tedmanson.

I
n the conservation department of the
Kröller-Müller Museum in Amsterdam,
two paintings by Vincent van Gogh lie on a
bench: unframed and ready for restoration.
A security guard hovers nearby and I try
not to breathe as I lean in close to inspect
the masterpiece Pine Trees at Sunset (1889),
my nose inches away from millions of dollars
and more than 140 years of art history.
The colours – iridescent greens, yellows,
blue hues – are magnificent, jumping off the
canvas like the winter grass outside the
window; Van Gogh’s famous brushstrokes
roughly yet perfectly bringing depth to the
leaves and tree trunks; the sunset in the
background literally glowing over the figure
walking in the field under an umbrella; the
ridges of paint rise off the canvas like tiny
mountain peaks. It is in stark contrast to the
smaller, darker Sheaves of Wheat (1885) sitting
next to it, with its tall bale of wheat rising
from a field, heavily varnished and painted in
autumnal olive, browns and mustard yellows.
So raw are these paintings that you can see
the nails on the edge of the canvas and the
century-old varnish weathered with age. They
are, quite simply, breathtaking.
Produced four years apart, they represent the
extraordinary scope of the Dutch post-
Impressionist, who remarkably only painted for
10 years but prolifically produced more than
860 paintings during that period. They also
perfectly encapsulate Van Gogh’s life through
his inspirations: the darker early works
depicting peasant working life in the
Netherlands, through to the vibrant works of
his last years, and that of the seasons, from
summer to spring in the south of France, where
he was being treated for his mental illness.
Nearby, other works – Olive Grove with Two
Olive Pickers (1889) and Tree Trunks in the
Grass (1890) – rest on easels, ready to be
packed up and couriered to Melbourne, where
they will form part of the Van Gogh and the
Seasons exhibition for the Winter Masterpieces
Vincent van Gogh’s series at the National Gallery of Victoria,
Pine Trees and which opens next month.
Dandelions in the
Garden of Saint-Paul The exhibition is the first of its kind that
Hospital
t (1890). specifically focuses on Van Gogh’s artistic

VOGUE.COM.AU 187
The Parsonage Garden at
Nuenen in the Snow (1885).
IMAGES COURTESY OF NGV KRÖLLER-MÜLLER
AND VAN GOGH MUSEUM
relationship with the seasons and will include 60 works on loan of yellow leaves against which the green beech trunks stand out
from the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam and Kröller-Müller, so beautifully, and the figures no less.”
a private museum and sculpture park. Van Gogh’s close relationship with his brother meant that when
The seasons had an almost religious effect on Van Gogh, who Theo had a son, named Vincent, the artist gave his namesake
for a time was an evangelical pastor before he turned to art and nephew the painting Almond Blossom (1890); its stunning white
succumbed to his mental illness. flowers on the blue background representative of new life.
According to Ted Gott, head of international art at the NGV, Theo’s great-grandchildren Vincent Willem van Gogh and
Van Gogh’s fascination with the seasons dates back to his early his cousin Josien now sit on the board of the Van Gogh
childhood, when his father, a Protestant preacher, would take his Foundation, which was founded to help preserve and display the
family on walks and used nature to prove the existence of God by 200-plus Van Gogh works inherited by Theo, who died only six
pointing out the wonders that could be found in the garden. months after his brother.
“He grew up in this Josien is chair of the Van
environment of great respect Gogh Foundation, while
for nature, but also associating Willem advises the board,
the cycles of the seasons was and has the added
representing the cycle of life. responsibility of carrying his
So spring represents childhood famous relative’s name.
and adolescence, summer is Sitting in the Van Gogh
maturity to middle age, Museum in Amsterdam, the
autumn is your 60s and 70s, descendants of the world-
and winter is old age.” famous artist happily
Van Gogh also looked at reminisce about visiting their
the seasons with an artist’s great-grandfather Theo’s
palette: winter was house where Vincent’s
predominantly black and Sunflowers, Almond Blossom
white; autumn, gold, yellow and other iconic paintings
or purple; spring was full of hung in the living room.
green and pink; and summer “It wasn’t something
was hot golds and deep blues. exceptional,” recalls Josien,
Interestingly, these brighter pointing to a photograph of
colours and his signature the Van Gogh family lounge
determined brushstrokes are room. “The paintings were in
found most in his last works the house and we grew up
from 1889 to 1890, when he with them, the only thing was
was in the grips of his mental we were not allowed to play
illness at the same time that football in the living room!
his artistic genius was fully “The paintings were always
realised. A standout of the there … when I visited my
Seasons exhibition is The grandfather he had a small
Garden of Saint-Paul Hospital unheated room where he kept
(1889), a vibrantly colourful all the paintings; they were
vista that transports you into just leaning against the wall.”
the springtime in France. It Willem, the eldest, recalls:
was painted while Van Gogh Vase with Cornflowers and Poppies (1887). “We had three or four Van
was being treated, shortly Gogh paintings in the living
before he committed suicide at the age of 37 in 1890. room. Sometimes when no-one was at home the kitchen door
Not surprisingly, given his iconic love of sunflowers, autumn wasn’t locked,” he says grinning, then adds: “Sometimes we had
with its yellow colour palette, was Van Gogh’s favourite season, plumbers around the house and they didn’t know … once we got
according to Sjraar van Heugten, a world-renowned expert on the robbed and they took everything but the paintings!”
Dutch artist and former curator at the Van Gogh Museum, who Upstairs at the museum thousands of tourists flock into the
has curated the Seasons exhibition for the NGV. various galleries to pour over hundreds of Van Gogh works
“Autumn was very dear to him,” says Van Heugten. “It was the – paintings, drawings, letters, including one to Australian
IMAGES COURTESY OF NGV KRÖLLER-MÜLLER

feeling of melancholy, nature shedding the leaves, a whole cycle of impressionist painter John Peter Russell, in which Van Gogh
the seasons, which he finds so impressive. And autumn is in a way wrote: “If you ever come to Paris, take one of my canvases from
related to death but with a promise of spring and new life.” my brother’s place if you wish.”
In one of Van Gogh’s many letters to his brother Theo, who In one gallery, a group 10-deep crowds around one of the
financially supported the artist, Vincent urgently asks for more Sunflowers series, while in the next annexe, another stands in front
AND VAN GOGH MUSEUM

funds, worrying he would not get the correct paint in time before of Vase with Cornflowers and Poppies (1887), a stunning still-life of
autumn turned to winter, before the leaves dropped and he lost red, white and blue flowers that will soon be on its way to Melbourne
his colourful inspiration. to be displayed at the NGV. In a darkened gallery in the middle of
In August, 1882, Van Gogh wrote to Theo: “I’m looking the European winter, it looks just like a beautiful burst of spring. ■
forward to the autumn. By then I must make sure I stock up on Van Gogh and the Seasons opens April 28 at the National Gallery
paint and various things again. I’m particularly fond of the effects of Victoria. Go to www.ngv.vic.gov.au.

190 APRIL 2017


The Garden
of Saint-Paul
Hospital
(1889).

VOGUE.COM.AU 191
Discovery
channel
I
n secret, at ungodly hours when everyone is asleep, or discovery continues beyond the initial recognition of the brand.
sometimes before anyone is awake, I go searching. With the “Since Attico was born we ‘educated’ our clients to take our pieces
room bathed in the glare of electro-blue phone light, out of context and not just looking at them as something to wear
I conduct a sometimes so-lengthy-it’s-eye-watering sweep of for a special occasion,” say the duo. “You can wear it [Attico] on
social media in search of the ultimate in fashion quarry: the top of your jeans and T-shirt and flats and you are ready to go,” as
new label. Perhaps it’s a fledgling start-up, a brand that is exemplified by an Instagram of a sylph-y Tordini in a liquid silver
difficult to ship to Australia or an online-only jewellery label Attico gown in Paris, and Ambrosio breezing by on her way
that does custom-name earrings. The one common denominator somewhere in a silk pistachio wrap dress over denim.
though: it must be new and it must be different. Our follow lists have become mental hit lists of treasured finds.
When it comes to fashion, anyone with internet access can tell (On mine currently: British shirt label Bruta, the hard-case straw
you the hunt has changed. The ephemera of online feeds and the bags of Cult Gaia, the offbeat shoes of Turkish Dorateymur,
high speed of an ultra-connected world play to frighteningly Milanese denim brand Don’t Cry and the sweetly subverted tea
shortened attention spans. “We have an insatiable desire for dresses of Susie Cave’s The Vampire’s Wife.) The anonymity of
newness,” says Candice Fragis, buying and merchandising online only adds to the feeling of secret discovery. There’s no-one
director at Farfetch, who has seen newer brands benefit from standing next to us in the shop, eyeing off the same coat in our
wandering eyes (and what the New York Times coined the new hands. It’s an environment that breeds comfort, meaning we
“eight-second attention span”) that are increasingly looking away don’t stick to mere window shopping. A recent study by Instagram
from the established names to fresh-out-there labels. “We’ve seen of a group of fashion-conscious users found they checked their
a much faster rise to the top for newer brands,” she says, citing feeds more frequently than the average user, and one in three had
young-gun French label Jacquemus and the fast and free creations bought something they’d seen on the platform.
of three-year-old Polish label Magda Butrym as high performers This translation into sales has seen the rise of relatively niche
for the luxury e-tailer. online and bricks and mortar stores that stock almost entirely
With fickleness a characteristic typical of fashion as a whole, up-and-coming contemporary brands. Among them Maryam
this new pattern of consumption seems inevitable. “The industry Nassir Zadeh, The Dreslyn and SSense and, back home, Tuchuzy
has always had an anti-establishment aspect to it. and East 43 in Sydney and Grace in Melbourne,
One only needs to look at the mini-skirt, the
bikini,” says consultant and founder of Catinella
“TODAY carrying labels like Georgia Alice, Rodebjer and
Cecilie Copenhagen, to name a sample.
PR agency, Robyn Catinella. “Today more than MORE “We thrive on brands that are new and
ever there is currency in being a disrupter; there is
a certain cachet to being the first to discover and
THAN EVER emerging,” says Kate Carroll, a buyer at Tuchuzy.
“It is a huge drawcard for our customers and for
wear something new.” THERE IS the development of the brand.”
Instagram – as a near entirely visually oriented CURRENCY Georgia Danos and Ilana Moses, co-owners and
platform – has played a crucial role. It is an arena
that thrives off discovery, helped along by the
IN BEING A buyers at Grace, are constantly looking to add to
their stable of designers with fresh talent. “We
search and explore tab and “suggested” carousel of DISRUPTER” always look at every look book sent our way,” the
similar accounts that flip up whenever we hit pair says. “Often now, when we visit the showrooms
follow. It doesn’t help that the algorithms governing these we’ve been buying from for years, they’ll have a new label that
platforms create a kind of artificial style determinism: though we they’ll want to show us.”
may like similar accounts, or like similar posts, there remains the For established luxury retailers, a nimble mindset shift is
giddy feeling of online kismet when we discover something. We needed in order to keep up and keep ahead. Many luxury e-tail
were supposed to find the label that encapsulates our sense of style behemoths are adding new blood to a stock of entrenched blue-
in, say, a black and white knit dress by GCDS or a colour-blocked chip names. “Traditional luxury has to be complemented by
shearling jacket by Austrian label Petar Petrov. fresh voices and cutting-edge talents to create a curated
It’s a model that befits new labels with small budgets in need of experience,” surmises Coco Chan, head of womenswear at
exposure. “I attracted attention with my picturesque content,” says Stylebop. These labels’ design credentials are formidable and
Ukrainian Vita Kin of her immediately recognisable namesake their talent, Chan says, matches up to established labels.
label of paint-box bright pieces, inspired by her native country’s London-based Rejina Pyo, a Central Saint Martins’ alumnus
ART DIRECTION: DIJANA SAVOR PHOTOGRAPH: EDWARD URRUTIA

traditional dress. “Social media is my stage. Buyers and clients are who went on to work under Roksanda Ilincic, won favour with
inspired primarily by what they see on my Instagram feed. It’s also the fashion set for being an under-the-radar name that offered
a great way for me to see how my clients interpret my designs something new. “I think as fashion becomes increasingly global,
when they wear my clothing, which in turn inspires me.” customers naturally seek out something unique, special,”
FRANCESCO RUSSO SHOES DETAILS LAST PAGES

Amassing and engaging with a customer base can equate to impresses Chan. When fashion week rolled around last
meaningful growth. Australian jeweller Christie Nicolaides has September, the fashion set could be seen wearing the much
been able to break down geographic barriers through Instagram, sought-after tie-back dress (Yasmin Sewell) and the marigold
selling worldwide from her online store. Her filigree creations puff-sleeve tunic (Kate Foley, Pandora Sykes) of Pyo’s, five
have bespangled the lobes of editors and stylists from New York months before they went in store. The same went for Ksenia
to London. “It allows a business to grow organically instead of Schnaider’s culottes-cum-shorts hybrid, which generated its own
jumping straight into big commitments like leasing a space,” she hashtag: #demidenims.
explains of the digital realm. “Often these new labels are more experimental and they push
Italian label Attico, founded by stylists and in-demand the boundaries of fashion more,” says Kathleen Buscema,
influencers Giorgia Tordini and Gilda Ambrosio, capitalised on womenswear buyer at luxury boutique Harrolds, a place on whose
their founders’ followings. For both Tordini and Ambrosio, whose polished shelves and metal racks was once a distant possibility
label was spotted by Net-A-Porter’s Lisa Aiken on Instagram, the Continued on page 218

VOGUE.COM.AU 193
lucky
charm
Playing one of the world’s most powerful men was a
formidable task for up-and-coming Australian actor
Devon Terrell, but his performance proved as engaging
as his affable personality, writes Cushla Chauhan.
Styled by Petta Chua. Photographed by Tim Ashton.

194 APRIL 2017


W
hen actor Devon Terrell walked onto the Rather than focusing on the weight of that expectation, Terrell
stage to rousing applause at the Toronto channelled his energy into his work. “I read as much as I could to
Film Festival last September, he made an see him as Barry the character. I wanted to understand the
announcement to the audience: “Not to nuances of him – how could I create someone that felt real but
scare anyone, but I’m Australian.” also felt authentic to Barack?”
It was a playful way to greet the Dreams from my Father, he says, became his bible. He lost
crowd, who burst into incredulous weight – “because I was quite muscly at the time” – and learnt
laughter hearing his Aussie drawl. Having just watched the how to write and play basketball left-handed. He also trained
24-year-old actor from Perth play a college-age Barack Obama in with a dialect coach perfecting Obama’s accent and idiosyncrasies.
the Netflix bio-drama Barry, they assumed the flawless American Terrell’s deft vocal mimicry is part of the reason he’s so
accent they had heard was his own. If anything, it was his nailing convincing on screen, that and the intelligence and inner turmoil
the former US president’s timbre and mannerisms that would he also manages to convey through expression and movement.
have left an impression. Gandhi entrusted his leading man to take his character where
Terrell chuckles in recalling the reaction. It’s a deep, hearty he needed to go. “On day one he said to me: ‘You are Barry now,
laugh I’ve heard often since arriving in the photo studio on the so whatever you’re feeling just go with that.’”
morning of Vogue’s shoot with the NIDA-trained actor, whose Terrell says the connection he felt with the young Obama
exuberance and easy interaction with everyone on set reveals a surprised him. “When I first read the script I was kind of shocked
natural charisma that befits him playing Barack Obama. that it wasn’t the Barack Obama I knew, instead it this awkward
It’s this charm that in part led young student who was in the
Barry director Vikram Gandhi to background. I always thought he’d
make the seemingly left-of-field be a natural leader, but he ebbed
choice of casting a little-known and flowed. I saw myself within
Australian in the role of the 44th that script and I never thought
American president. But there are reading the character of Barack
other parallels between the I would see myself,” he explains.
character and actor too, which “We wanted to make a film that’s
Terrell reveals later. relatable and tell it through this
When we speak, the handsome incredible person, this man who
lead is excited to be back on home became an extraordinary human
turf and eagerly anticipating Barry’s being, but was just a normal guy
imminent launch on Netflix. He is who didn’t have ambitions to be
in a confident state of mind, in stark president. He had greatness within
contrast to the way he felt in the Scenes from him, but he never quite saw where it
Barry, in which
lead-up to that first public screening Terrell plays would lead.”
in Toronto. “I’ve never been so a 20-year-old With his mixed African-American
terrified in my life!” he confesses. Barack Obama. Anglo-Indian heritage and having
“It’s so humbling to see all those been born in the US before moving
people sit through your film … to to Perth at the age of five, Terrell not
actually see your work,” he says of only bears a physical resemblance to
his debut movie role. “The film has his character, but also relates to his
been received so tremendously well battle with identity.
and people are putting away their “I never felt like an outsider,” he
politics and seeing it as a story of a reflects on growing up in Perth,
young man growing up and trying “but within myself I was always
to discover himself.” asking those questions, like: ‘Am
Indeed, Barry isn’t a portrait of the I Afro-American or am I Australian?’,
assured former president we recognise today, but rather depicts a so the film brought up so many things for me.
young man of mixed heritage struggling with issues of race and “I loved getting into the psyche of someone who felt he didn’t
identity. Set in 1981, it takes us back to when Obama was 20 years belong anywhere. It became a very important story to me
old and has just arrived in New York to attend Columbia University. personally and a lot of cast members, because a lot of us dealt
While not much has been documented on this period in with the same issues of ‘where do I belong?’”
Obama’s life, Gandhi and screenwriter Adam Mansbach drew While Terrell doesn’t expect to hear a critique from Obama
from the recollections in the former president’s 1995 memoir, himself, who was sent a copy of the film and had representatives
Dreams from my Father. The story they crafted is one of a man from the White House present at the Toronto Film Festival last
working out his place in the world and who he really is. year, he admits he’d love to know how it was received. “I just
Both the film and Terrell’s performance have received critical hope he’s proud of how I portrayed him, because I respect him so
acclaim since Barry’s release, but the pressure on the actor at the highly,” he says.
time was tremendous. Representing a venerated leader was Given that he’s currently between Australia, New York and LA
daunting enough, but the bio-drama’s release also coincided with for work and deliberating his next career move, it’s perhaps not
a swell of sentiment in the lead-up to Obama’s final days in office. foremost in his mind, though. “I haven’t signed off to anything
TIM ASHTON

“It was extremely hard, because he was so fresh in everyone’s yet, but I’m reading a lot of scripts and just want to make the right
mind, constantly. But I had to push that away,” says Terrell on decision,” he reveals of his plans. “I’ve had some amazing scripts
tackling the role, for which he only had two months to prepare. come my way so, so far, 2017 looks really, really exciting.” ■

196 APRIL 2017


La
Dolce
Tina
The inimitable Tina Arena is stronger than
ever, discovers Sophie Tedmanson. Styled by
Petta Chua. Photographed by Jake Terrey.

T
ina Arena is picking at my salad. “I luuurve le fromage,”
she purrs, scooping forkfuls of crumbled feta. Slipping
into French is natural for the songstress, as is Italian.
She speaks a bit of Spanish, too. The day before she
had held court with the Italian musicians on our photo
shoot, singing and dancing a salsa as they played
accordions. A week earlier she hosted the opening of
the Versailles exhibition in Canberra, conversing in French and
English with dignitaries and art executives alike. She was chosen as
the exhibition’s ambassador due to her relationship with France,
where she moved in the late 1990s. It was a move that changed her
life and career; but more on that later.
Speaking multiple languages is just one of the Australian diva’s
many endearing qualities, as is her passion for standing up for herself,
for female equality. She has a voice in song and attitude that belies
her petite stature. Arena is tiny, which earned her the nickname
Tiny Tina when she first graced our TV screens in 1976 at the age of
eight. She grew up in Moonee Ponds with Sicilian parents Giuseppe
(“Joe”) and Francesca (“Franca”), and sisters Nancy and Silvana.
Her upbringing was parlayed into childhood fame when Arena, at
birth named Filippina after her grandmother, appeared on Young
Talent Time. There she was renamed Tina, and a star was born. Four
decades, 11 albums and over 10 million album sales later she is still
recognised as “Tiny Tina”. And she’s still petite. “I haven’t grown
much,” she quips. But so much has happened to shape Arena into the
strong, outspoken, warm-hearted woman sitting across from me. She
emits a calm strength. She has a questioning, friendly yet no-bullshit
attitude. She is self-assured. But it has not always been that way.  
Arena turns 50 this November, a milestone she is embracing. More
than ever she is strong-willed – motherhood and being a female role
model among the many passions she debates during our hour-long
lunch, as is ageing gracefully. “Fifty is worth celebrating,” she says,
staring intensely at me. “Kim Kardashian is not my reference. She is
probably a nice girl but if you ask me who my references are I will say
Isabella Rossellini, Monica Bellucci, Charlotte Rampling, Jenny
Kee, Carla Zampatti. These women have not been frightened to
speak their minds and they are inherently passionate. A lot of people
say ‘she is feisty’, but what’s wrong with that? Cate Blanchett is feisty.
Bette Midler is feisty. There are a lot of Australian women who are
feisty and I love that. I just love anyone who has a go.”
Arena is a diva in all senses of the word. Her brand of soulful pop
– think an Australian version of Mariah Carey or Celine Dion – has
translated into extraordinary success in Australia and France. Yet Tina Arena wears an
despite impressive chart success with her hits Chains, Sorrento Moon Alexander McQueen
dress, from Harrolds.
and Burn, despite being awarded an Order of Australia and singing Cartier rings,
at the Sydney Olympics opening ceremony, Australia has never been bracelet, earrings
her number one market. She never had the cool factor of Kylie and necklace. Other
jewellery, Arena’s
Minogue – her peer in many ways – yet Arena is more extraordinary. own, by Ofée, worn
Minogue was on stage when Arena was inducted into the Aria Hall throughout. Fashion
of Fame in 2015 and, in true Arena fashion, proceeded to lambast details last pages.

198 APRIL 2017


the industry over gender equality. Minogue introduced Arena stagnant here with the things I had learnt and the things I wanted
after a powerful performance of her hit Chains, backed by Jess to do mixed with people’s trepidation and lack of audacity.
Mauboy and the Veronicas, who looked on admiringly as Arena I always like to think outside the box. There was always this sense
descended floodlit stairs wearing a Carla Zampatti jumpsuit. It of retention and it bored me. I don’t want to be held back.”
was her moment, and she embraced it in the speech that followed. She describes France as “the universe telling me not to go to
“Who decides that a woman at a certain point in her life no a dark place”. “Turn the darkness around and turn it into light.
longer becomes viable?” she asked the industry assembled before I turned black into white,” she says. “It is so important not to
her. “Women and men of all ages have something interesting to carry that pain, but to learn from it and that is what is so beautiful
say, but what I have struggled with is the ostracism of women at about life. What defines us? It is not only the pleasure, but also
a certain age. I want to acknowledge that ladies over 40 are still pain. That is where we take the biggest leaps of faith.”
in the game – my darling friend behind me Miss Kylie Minogue, Her success in France proved so great that in 2011 Arena
the wonderful Madonna, J-Lo, Annie Lennox: the list goes on … became the first Australian to receive the Knighthood of the
Keep doing what you are doing, and keep doing what you do Order of National Merit, awarded by the French president. It was
best, ladies, because we will decide when it’s time for us to stop.” in Paris that Arena met her partner, French actor Vincent
Back at lunch, Arena is circumspect about her speech, which Mancini. The couple has a 10-year-old son, Gabriel, and now
received a standing ovation. “I am an artist, I believe in freedom split their time between Paris and Melbourne, to be closer to
of speech and I believe I had earned those 12 minutes of airtime Arena’s elderly parents, and where Gabriel attends school.
to genuinely share what I felt,” she says. “I didn’t want to hammer Arena is positive about the future – a new album and perfume
anybody. My intentions were not to offend anybody; my are set for release later this year – and circumspect about the past.
intentions were to speak the truth, to speak my truth even if that “Universal timing is important to our lives,” she says. “As brutal
wasn’t what people wanted to hear. as it was it made me a better woman. I’m not going to take shit
“As a woman who grew up in a country where my ideas and the from anyone anymore. This is who I am and I’m not going to
things I wanted were not necessarily always embraced, I felt it was change who I am now. I went through five or six years surrounded
time to tell people that I was incredibly appreciative by toxicity to come out of that and to look at this
of all that I had been blessed with. But I also want
you to understand that my life has not been a bed
“I WAS LIKE man [Vincent] and the growth we went through
together came at the right time. It was a mode of
of roses. I am comfortable with being 40-plus. Age A PAINTER survival. It was do or die. I didn’t have the choice.”
is something to celebrate, not something to be
ashamed of. I feel women need role models of all
WITH A How did this period affect her music and lyrics?
“It flourished, because … the voice box is entirely
ages and I feel there is a lack of mature role models BLANK guided by emotions,” she says. “I had hands
in our culture. We tend to be ageist and exceedingly
narcissistic and I struggle with that, because it
CANVAS … around my neck for years and I felt this liberation
and I could breathe.”
doesn’t allow us to talk about our vulnerabilities. I COULD Arena’s emotional fragility is what makes her a
It doesn’t entice us to talk about our fears, it doesn’t PAINT great artist, says John O’Donnell, managing director
entice us to talk about what makes us happy and
what makes me happy is not necessarily being
WHAT I of her label EMI, and who has known Arena
personally for more than 20 years. He describes her
perfect. What makes me happy is being a woman WANTED” equally as “fierce”, a “rare and brilliant singer” and
and talking about the journey of being a woman. a “survivor”.
It was just my moment to be able to express that.” “Tina is a big-match player,” says O’Donnell. “But like so many
Arena has always been outspoken. But her acrimonious divorce great artists, she is a great blend of fragility and insecurities and
from husband and manager Ralph Carr in 1999 and years of incredible drive and ambition. It’s what makes her such
struggling to shrug off her child-star status left her broken. She a  compelling and impressive person. She has an ego and is
left the country to find herself, seeking solace in France. In the extremely competitive, but she mostly keeps that hidden or in
following decade she discovered who she was supposed to be. check and her personal warmth and her big heart win
“I think I have been able to achieve so much coming through a through.  For all of her success and worldliness she is still the
difficult period, but I grieved my innocence for a while because daggy immigrant girl from Moonee Ponds.”
I had a humble and trusting personality and that was violated,” It is safe to say Arena has grown from that daggy immigrant
she says. “That is a big thing to work through. At different times girl into a woman completely comfortable in her own skin. Albeit
in your life you see people take advantage of someone’s honesty one who never forgets her roots. Her mother, a former seamstress,
professionally and personally. When you’re a kid and you are gave Arena a passion for clothes (“I was a trinket queen as a child,
thrust into the limelight, that inner circle has to have sanctity wearing Mum’s gowns all the time, listening to John Lennon”),
and it doesn’t always and that’s part of the journey. But coming but also instilled her strength as a woman, and taught her to stay
to terms with that loss and grieving it and going: ‘Okay, what grounded. “She kept shit real,” Arena says, adding that her father
happened, what do I take from that?’ Don’t be as trusting.” taught her and her sisters to be independent. “Papa was always
The move to France helped Arena press reset and gain a brand- like ‘stand strong and make a contribution … pull your weight’.”
new start, one that rebooted her career and personal life. As we bid farewell, I ask what makes her happy and she smiles.
“I felt a little bit like a painter with a blank canvas,” she says of “What makes me happy is being a woman and talking about the
her move. “And finally for the first time in my life I could paint journey of being a woman.” With that she says goodbye with
what I wanted to paint. There were no preconceptions about me, a warm hug and wanders off down the street, humming a tune
they hadn’t seen me grow up, so I enjoyed the anonymity, but and dancing to her own beat. ■
JAKE TERREY

that anonymity faded quickly. The music had become so popular Tina Arena’s new album, Tina Arena, is out this month and she
and so I was working and enjoying collaborations. That is what tours Australia in September. Her fragrance, Renaissance, is due for
ultimately attracted me. I felt like I had become a little bit release in May.

200 APRIL 2017


Above: as on previous
page. Bally heels.
Below: Dolce &
Gabbana dress and
earrings. Falke tights.
Giorgio Armani shoes.
Hair: Molly Warkentin
Make-up: Taylor James
Generation
anxiety
Millennials are the most tech-savvy generation in human history, and the most
anxious. Coincidence? By Jody Scott. Illustration by Christiane Spangsberg.

K
eeping too many tabs open will drain your A recent Deloitte Mobile Consumer Survey found 18- to
batteries, my five-year-old daughter likes to remind 24-year-old Australians check their phones up to 56 times a day
me before helpfully offering to close them. and some check it more than 200 times daily. Sound familiar?
It might be a ploy to get her hands on my phone, More than 80 per cent of Australians can’t last an hour after
but it is also a neat metaphor for modern life: waking before checking their phones, according to the survey of
many of us are running around with too many 2,000 Australians aged between 18 and 75. And half of 18 to
tabs open inside our heads. We constantly toggle 24-year-olds check theirs within five minutes of waking.
between screens, compulsively check social media, multi-task Just don’t assume they want to talk to you. Instant messaging
and then cancel commitments because we are so exhausted. usage surpassed voice services for those under 24 in 2015.
So it’s no surprise recent studies have declared millennials, So we are high on Wi-Fi, texting like crazy and living in an
especially women, the most anxious generation in history. almost perpetual state of “fight or flight”. It’s no wonder then
Anxiety comes in many forms, but the simplest way to describe that conversations about mental health are more common.
it is feeling worried or nervous about the future or uncertain Lena Dunham, actress, producer and creator of the HBO series
situations. In small doses, anxiety can help motivate us to get Girls, for instance, has been very honest about her anxiety
things done. However, when it escalates it can be debilitating and disorder. “Part of being human is that you’re in a constantly
have serious effects on our physical health. transitional place,” Dunham once said in an interview. “I think
Anxiety wasn’t officially recognised as a condition in the something that can be hard is the idea that people would say:
Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders (DSM) ‘I used to have this and now I’m cured.’ And the fact is, I still go
until 1980, so the record-keeping on mental health prior to that through phases of crippling anxiety.”
was patchy. What we do know is that it’s become more prevalent. According to the Beyondblue support service for depression and
According to a National Health Survey by the Australian Bureau anxiety, Australian data suggests that among 10- to 24-year-old
of Statistics, anxiety affected 3.8 per cent of the total population females, seven to 14 per cent will experience an anxiety condition in
in 2011–2012, and 11.2 per cent of us in 2014–2015. any given year. “Mental health is commonly ranked as a top concern
Meanwhile, for those born between 1978 and 1999, Western for young people, and they are more likely than older generations to
life has become a perpetual cycle of technology, sleep deprivation recognise the signs of anxiety, talk about it with their friends,
and spectacularly high expectations set by social media. post about it on social media, look up information online and
Like the rest of us, millennials are also dealing with seek professional help,” says Beyondblue CEO Georgie Harman.
unprecedented challenges including political and economic Anti-sugar crusader, author, entrepreneur, blogger and former
uncertainty, global warming and rapid technological change. journalist Sarah Wilson’s latest book, First, We Make The Beast
“All is clearly not well,” says social researcher and author Hugh Beautiful: A New Story About Anxiety (Macmillan Australia), is a
Mackay. “We are a society in the grip of epidemics of anxiety, brave deep dive into her lifelong battle with anxiety, insomnia,
obesity and depression – 20 per cent of Australians experience teenage bulimia, obsessive compulsive disorder, depression,
some form of mental illness. It’s already clear that many of us are hypomania and bipolar disorder that has at times made her suicidal.
severely stressed by the struggle to keep up with the rate of change She knows a thing or two about mental health and has some
in our lives, and one of the consequences of that stress is anxiety.” theories on why anxiety is on the rise among otherwise “normal”
Mackay says that while anxiety and depression are not confined people. “The lives millennials are living is very conducive to turning
to any particular social or economic stratum, life, as a young person, up the dial on anxiety,” says Wilson, a 43-year-old Gen Xer. “For
is more difficult for millennials than it was for previous generations. those of us who might have an anxiety disorder, the conditions are
The current crop of Australian adolescents are the offspring of not conducive to handling it well,” she says. “And there are more
our most divorced generation of parents, which means many of people experiencing panic attacks who in the past probably would
them are dealing with the consequences of family breakdown. not have, because life would not have put them in that position.”
ANXIETY (2017) BY CHRISTIANE SPANGSBERG

“Typically, if both parents are around, they are both working, Living further away from family and a lack of community are
and therefore more busy, tired and on a shorter fuse than in also having an impact, according to social psychologist Dr Jean
previous generations of parents,” Mackay says, adding that this Twenge, author of Generation Me: Why Today’s Young Americans
generation experienced more out-of-home childcare than in any Are More Confident, Assertive, Entitled and More Miserable Than
previous generation, bringing new emotional challenges. Ever Before. “Just a few generations ago, depression and suicide
And while they may be digital natives, he adds that millennials were considered afflictions of middle age,” she wrote in a 2011
have been conditioned to confuse data transmission with article for the American Journal of Orthopsychiatry. In her book,
communication and to assume that connections via social media she argued another factor was the disconnect between expectations
are much the same as person-to-person encounters. and reality – young people were told: “You can be anything you
“The IT revolution has actually made it easier than ever to stay want to be”, and then found that reality was not quite so easy.
apart from each other, and that fuels anxiety too,” he says. Continued on page 218

202 APRIL 2017


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Clockwise from far left:
the playful palette of the Gio
Ponti-designed Villa Planchart in
Venezuela; Celestino’s velvet sofa
for Fendi trimmed with fox fur;
a shutter screen with panels of
lacquered wood and resin-covered
fur; pink accents and ombré walls
feature in Celestino’s Milan home.

or Milan-based designer Cristina Celestino, humour – in

F addition to beauty – lies in the details. “There’s always a


touch of irony,” she says of her work, in which a mane of
colourful fringe, the unexpected shape of an earring back,
or coils of passementerie deliver jolts of fun to modern silhouettes.
Celestino, who studied architecture at the Università Iuav di
Venezia and launched her own design practice, Attico, in 2009,
has teamed up with Fendi for a fizzy collection of furnishings
that made its debut at Design Miami.
She started this project, like most of her others, in the library,
leafing through design books on the likes of Paolo Venini,
Guglielmo Ulrich, Carlo Scarpa and Le Corbusier. It was Italian
architect Gio Ponti’s Villa Planchart that ultimately caught her
eye. “It is a hymn to Italian craftsmanship and style,” she says.
“But it’s in Caracas!” She was as taken with the rare orchids the
Venezuelan home was devised to host as she was with the
polychromatic marble floors and painted ceilings. “The vases,
the flower boxes and the greenery itself were designed by Ponti
PHOTOGRAPHS: HELENIO BARBETTA COURTESY OF FENDI

and became elements of the project,” she says.


Celestino’s sorbet-hued furnishings clearly nod to the villa’s
tropical 1950s interior, as does the lush foliage that is a crucial
part of the line’s presentation. Of course, she threw in a few
wildly luxurious touches for good measure: a sofa and chair are
skirted with fur trim, and an elaborate folding screen includes
panels of resin-covered mink. “The fur becomes immortal,” she
says. “Like an architectural material.”
As for her bit of fun? The earring-back detail that cropped up
in a 2015 range of pendants Celestino designed takes centre
stage in this collection as a jazzy accent on the backs of an
armchair and sofa and as the curling brass bases for a trio of
occasional tables. “The low tables become oversize earrings,” she
says. “Like small furniture jewels.” ■

VOGUE.COM.AU 211
diary
vogueVOYAGE

American
summer
From the Southern
hotspot of Nashville to
idyllic Aspen, there’s
MIGUEL REVERIEGO

Models Kasia Struss


plenty to explore in
(left) and Jacquelyn heartland USA over
Jablonski outside the
Boot Country store on
the warmer months.
Nashville’s Broadway. By Mark Sariban.

VOGUE.COM.AU 213
Rolf and
Daughters
Nashville’s Aubrey
Peeples and Lennon
Stella performing at
Bluebird Cafe.

DRINK SHOP
Pinewood
Social bar and
bowling alley,
33 Peabody Street.

EAT

Get your caffeine


fix at Crema,
15 Hermitage Bar seating
Avenue. at Bastion.
VOGUE VOYAGE

Aspen, Colorado
hink of Aspen and snow and skiing are almost certainly

T the first things that come to mind. But this swish


mountain town is just as popular with visitors in summer.
Given the clear blue skies, fresh mountain air, lush green
lawns, bursts of wildflowers everywhere and tiny hummingbirds
whizzing past as you make your way along manicured footpaths,
it’s no surprise the town is buzzing in the “off-season”.
Flying into Aspen’s tiny airport, the plane taxies past a long
row of parked private jets and pulls up outside a low-set terminal.
Stepping onto the tarmac, you’re greeted by a kitschy carved
wooden bear holding up a “Welcome” sign. It’s the first of many
contradictions about this town: there’s plenty of conspicuous
wealth on show, with houses trading for tens of millions, but it’s
far from being a snooty playground of the super-rich.
The relatively down-to-earth, approachable vibe Aspen gives off
springs from its 20th-century reinvention: in the 1940s Chicago-
based industrialists Walter and Elizabeth Paepcke transformed the
sleepy town into a cultural retreat for the mind, body and spirit,
complete with a Bauhaus-style modernist campus and, in 1946,
built the town’s first ski lift. The Paepckes’ humanist ideals live on
in the Aspen Institute, the Aspen Music Festival and the evident
sense of community among the locals, even as property prices have
gone through the roof and headed towards the stratosphere.
Their name lives on, too, in the Paepcke Suite, the grandest of
the six grand suites at the Little Nell, which is the only ski-in/ski-
out five-star resort in Aspen and has an equally impressive summer
offering. The Little Nell’s adventure concierge team can organise
everything from Jeep tours, horseback riding, cycling excursions
(including “ride and dine” dinners where you cycle to your
destination and, thankfully, are driven back afterward), fly-fishing
and trips up the mountain to star-gaze at night.
In summer the Little Nell’s resident gardener Arabella Beavers
plants the garden beds around the pool with an abundance of
edible plants, which attract both hummingbirds flitting from
flower to flower and chefs from the hotel’s Element 47 restaurant,
who pop over to grab herbs for the night’s offerings. Just as the
hotel’s Ajax Tavern is the epicentre of the après-ski scene in winter,
there’s no better place in summer than an outdoor table at Element
47, facing the colourful “living wall” plantings across the pool
while sipping wine from the renowned 22,000-bottle collection
overseen by the Little Nell’s wine director Carlton McCoy.

216 APRIL 2017


Lynda Benglis’s Pink
Ladies and Pink Lady
(For Asha) on the roof deck
at Aspen Art Museum.

IN THE FRAME
Aspen Art Museum stands out in
this low-rise town with its woven-
wood exterior and a remit to show
contemporary art exploring cultural,
social and political issues. 637 East Hyman SAINT LAURENT BOOTS,
Avenue; www.aspenartmuseum.org. $815, FROM WWW.
MATCHESFASHION.COM.

Outerwear brand Aether’s store


at 414 East Cooper Avenue. SHOP

Hats and horns


at Kemo Sabe.

VOGUE.COM.AU 217
GENERATION ANXIETY, FROM PAGE 202 WHERE TO BUY
Mackay says Western society’s “me” culture encourages The details of stores listed on these pages have been supplied to Vogue
anxiety-inducing individualism and materialism. “Think of the by the manufacturers. For enquiries, contact Vogue Fashion Information,
Locked Bag 5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015 or Level 5, 40 City Road,
primary uses of social media – not to communicate but to brag,” Southbank, Victoria 3006. All prices correct at the time of going to print.
he says. “Think of the growing emphasis on personal entitlement A.L.C. from a selection at www. Francesco Russo from a Prada (02) 9223 1688.
rather than civic responsibility.” He argues humans are social matchesfashion.com and www.
shopbop.com; www.alcltd.com.
selection at www.Net-A-Porter.
com and www.mytheresa.com.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
from a selection at
creatures who have evolved to cooperate in close communities Adriana Orsini from a selection
at www.saks.com.
G-Star www.g-star.com.
Gary Bigeni
www.Net-A-Porter.com.
Proenza Schouler
rather than compete. “If we focus too much on our own wants, African Botanics from
a selection at www.
www.garybigeni.com.
General Pants Co.
www.proenzaschouler.com.
Rag & Bone (02) 9698 1688.
our own entitlements and our own gratifications, with little meccacosmetica.com.au.
Agmes www.agmesnyc.com.
www.generalpants.com.au.
Georg Jensen
Repossi www.repossi.com.
Rodin from a selection at
regard for the needs and wellbeing of others, there will be an Aje from a selection at Myer
1800 811 611; www.a-j-e.com.au.
www.georgjensen.com.
Giorgio Armani (02) 8233 5888.
www.meccacosmetica.com.au.
Romance Was Born
inevitable threat to our mental health,” he says. Alex Perry from a selection
at Myer 1800 811 611.
Givenchy eyewear from Safilo
(02) 9540 0500.
www.romancewasborn.com.
Saint Laurent from a selection
The good news is that there is mounting evidence to suggest Alexander McQueen from a
selection at David Jones 133 357,
Gucci 1300 442 878.
H.Stern www.hstern.net.
at www.matchesfashion.com;
www.ysl.com.
mental health is becoming a priority for millennials. Harrolds 1300 755 103 and
www.Net-A-Porter.com.
H&M 1800 828 220.
Happy Socks
Saint Laurent shoes from
a selection at Miss Louise
Alexander McQueen eyewear www.happysocks.com. (03) 9654 7730.
Supermodel, coder, philanthropist and millennial poster girl from a selection at Sunshades Hardy Brothers 1300 231 393. Salvatore Ferragamo and
Eyewear (02) 8303 7300. Hermès (02) 9287 3200. Ferragamo’s Creations
Karlie Kloss actively encourages girls to learn to code. But she Alexander Wang from a Hillier Bartley from a selection 1300 095 224.
selection at Belinda (02) 9380 at www.matchesfashion.com. Sarah J Curtis
advocates a weekly digital detox, too. “I think it’s important to 8725 and David Jones 133 357; Holly Ryan www.sarahjcurtis.com.
www.alexanderwang.com. www.hollyryan.com.au. Sass & Bide
step away for a minute and actually reconnect with people and All Blues www.allblues.se. Iiuvo from a selection at www.sassandbide.com.
Ann Shoebridge www.meccacosmetica.com.au. Sea from a selection at
reconnect with yourself.” www.annshoebridge.com. Jane D’Arensbourg www.matchesfashion.com.
Annelise Michelson www.janedarensbourg.com. Seed www.seedheritage.com.
Millennials are more willing than previous generations to www.annelisemichelson.com. Jennifer Fisher Self-Portrait from a selection
Annie Costello Brown www.jenniferfisherjewelry.com. at Myer 1800 811 611 and
consult a therapist and talk about it openly, says Rachel www.anniecostellobrown.com. Jil Sander from a selection at www.Net-A-Porter.com.
Asilio from a selection www.matchesfashion.com, Smith + Mara
Krautkremer, an insights and strategy director at New York trend at Myer 1800 811 611. www.Net-A-Porter.com; www.smithandmara.com.
Balenciaga from a selection www.jilsander.com. Strand Hatters
forecasting company Cassandra Report. “They are eradicating the at Harrolds 1300 755 103 and Jimmy Choo (02) 8666 0606 www.strandhatters.com.au.
Parlour X (02) 9331 0999; or (03) 9038 1084. Strateas Carlucci
stigma around therapy,” Krautkremer says. www.balenciaga.com. Kailis www.strateascarlucci.com.
Bally 1800 781 851. www.kailisjewellery.com.au. Suzy O’Rourke
She says millennials have a more holistic view of wellness, Balmain from a selection Karen Millen www.suzyorourke.com.au.
at Myer 1800 811 611; www.karenmillen.com.au. Swarovski 1300 791 599.
believing that mental and spiritual health are just as important as www.balmain.com. Kat von D (02) 9221 5703. Sylvy Earl www.sylvyearl.com.
Boss (03) 9474 6304. Kate Spade (02) 9231 4353. The Body Shop 1800 065 232.
fitness and nutrition. “They are starting to see the negative Bottega Veneta (02) 9239 0188. Kenneth Jay Lane from a The Daily Edited
Bulgari (02) 9233 3611. selection at www.Net-A-Porter. www.thedailyedited.com.
repercussions of their always-on lives,” she says. “This is leading Burberry (02) 8296 8588. com, www.kennethjaylane.com. The Perfext from a selection
By Johnny Kiehl’s (02) 9326 9980. at www.shopbop.com.
them to embrace mindfulness, meditation and sound therapy.” www.byjohnny.com.au.
Byredo from a selection at
La Perla from a selection at
www.imboutique.com.au and
The Upside
www.theupsidesport.com.
Wilson includes many of the self-care hacks she uses to support www.meccacosmetica.com.au.
C/meo Collective
www.Net-A-Porter.com;
www.laperla.com.
The Vintage Clothing Shop
(02) 9238 0090.
her mental health in her book, including building boundaries, www.cmeocollective.com.
Camilla and Marc 1800 611 617.
La Prairie (02) 9888 0600
or 1800 649 849.
Thomas Sabo (02) 94170177.
3 Concept Eyes (02) 9221 5703.
turning off social media, embracing simple routines, quitting Cartier 1800 130 000.
Céline from a selection
Lancôme 1300 651 991.
Larkspur & Hawk
Thurley www.thurley.com.au.
Tiffany & Co. 1800 731 131.
coffee and sugar (naturally), daily exercise and meditation. at David Jones 133 357, Marais
(03) 8658 9555 and Parlour X
www.larkspurandhawk.com.
Laura Mercier (02) 9663 4277.
Tod’s (02) 8203 0901.
Tome www.tomenyc.com.
But perhaps her best tip of all is that we learn to embrace the (02) 9331 0999.
Cerrone (02) 8246 9119.
Loewe (03) 8614 1190.
Longines (03) 8844 3300.
Tony Bianco
www.tonybianco.com.
beauty of imperfection. ■ Chanel 1300 242 635.
Charlotte Chesnais
Louis Vuitton 1300 883 880.
Lover from a selection at
Topshop (02) 8072 9300.
Urban Decay from a selection at
from a selection at www.belleandpaige.com www.meccacosmetica.com.au.
www.matchesfashion.com and www.superette.co.nz. Valentino from a selection at
DISCOVERY CHANNEL, FROM PAGE 193 and www.Net-A-Porter.com. M.A.C 1800 613 828. Parlour X (02) 9331 0999.
Christian Dior (02) 9229 4600 Macgraw Vetements from a selection
for up-and-comers. “Although the demographic for these brands or (03) 9650 0132.
Christian Dior fragrances and
www.macgraw.com.au.
Maison Michel
at Harrolds 1300 755 103.
Vetements x Levi’s
is often not as wide-reaching as the more established labels, they cosmetics (02) 9695 4800.
Christian Louboutin
www.michel-paris.com.
Make Up For Ever
from a selection at Parlour X
(02) 9331 0999.
are very much as important to us. Our client craves new things,” (02) 8355 5252; from a selection
at www.Net-A-Porter.com.
(02) 9221 5703.
Manolo Blahnik from a selection
Vetements x Mackintosh
from a selection at Claudia
she says, meaning women will buy into the genre-defying, Christian Roth
www.christianroth.com.
at Harrolds 1300 755 103.
Mansur Gavriel from a selection
Krebser (+41) 412 107 723,
www.matchesfashion.com
Christie Millinery at The Corner Shop (02) 9380 and www.mytheresa.com.
cooler-than-cult label Vetements and smaller accessories labels www.christiemillinery.com. 9828, Incu (02) 9331 1014, Vetements x Manolo Blahnik
Christie Nicolaides www.cultstatus.com.au and from a selection at
like Sarah & Sebastian alongside Tom Ford, Valentino and www.christienicolaides.com.au. www.matchesfashion.com. www.Net-A-Porter.com.
Christopher Esber Marcs www.marcs.com.au. Victoria Novak
Alexander McQueen. www.christopheresber.com.au. Marimekko www.viktorianovak.com.au.
Commas from a selection at www.marimekko.com.au. Vince www.vince.com.
But newness in and of itself isn’t enough to sustain a label, let www.pampamswim.com.au. Marni (02) 9327 3809; Witchery
Country Road from a selection at www.witchery.com.au.
alone a business. “I look for a point of difference, quality and www.countryroad.com.au. www.Net-A-Porter.com. Wittner www.wittner.com.au.
Cue www.cue.cc. Mason Pearson 1800 369 273. Wolford
finish of the product,” says Fragis, who applies the usual metrics Dana Rebecca Designs Maticevski from a selection www.wolford melbourne.com.
www.danarebeccadesigns.com. at Myer 1800 811 611. Zara (02) 9376 7600.
and checks along with gut instinct before taking on a new label. David Lawrence Max Factor 1800 181 040. Zimmermann
www.davidlawrence.com.au. Max Mara (02) 8084 9113. www.zimmermannwear.com.
Like many brands, Tordini and Ambrosio also know social media Derek Lam www.dereklam.com. Michael Kors (02) 9266 099.
Diana Vreeland Parfums Mimco 1800 994 340.
is evolving and increasingly doesn’t have the kind of power it from a selection at Miu Miu (02) 9223 1688.
www.meccacosmetica.com.au. Moschino from a selection PRIVACY NOTICE.
once did to catapult a brand to success. “Today there is so much Dion Lee www.dionlee.com. at Myer 1800 811 61. NewsLifeMedia collects information
about you, including for example your
Dior Homme (02) 9229 4600 Mr. Smith (03) 9416 3040.
competition and the market is saturated,” say the duo. “Instagram or (03) 95648161. Mulberry www.mulberry.com.
name and contact details which you
provide when registering or using our
Dolce & Gabbana (03) Nars from a selection at services as well as information from
is definitely a powerful tool for young designers, but it’s also so 9662 4732; from a selection www.meccacosmetica.com.au. data houses, social media services, our
affiliates and other entities you deal or
at David Jones 133 357 and Nehera from a selection at Playa
important to have a structure behind you; a sales team that www.Net-A-Porter.com. by Lucy Folk (02) 9130 3666.
interact with for example by using their
services. We collect and use that
Doyle & Doyle Nerida Winter from a selection information to provide you with our
accompanies the brand to a professional path and helps build a www.doyledoyle.com. at Myer 1800 811 611; goods and services, to promote and
improve our goods and services, for
Early Halloween www.neridawinter.com.
strong network of distribution.” Only then can a brand bypass www.earlyhalloween.com.
Ek Thongprasert from
Nina Ricci from a selection at
Belinda (02) 9380 8725 and
the purposes described in our Privacy
Policy and for any other purposes that
we describe at the time of collection.
the usual track to success. a selection at Parlour X
(02) 9331 0999.
www.farfetch.com.
O.P.I 1800 812 663
We may disclose your information to
our related companies, including those
Authenticity, too, can carry a brand beyond the point of Ellery eyewear from Specsavers
www.specsavers.com.au.
or 1800 358 999.
Ofée www.o-fee.com/en.
located outside Australia. Any of us
may contact you for those purposes
(including by email and SMS). We may
discovery. Free from the pressures and complexities of a big fashion Ellery www.elleryland.com.
Emilio Pucci from a selection
Olivia von Halle
www.oliviavonhalle.com.
also disclose your information to our
service and content providers,
house, a label can hone in on an original aesthetic. “Customers are at Parlour X (02) 9331 0999;
www.emiliopucci.com.
Olivier Theyskens
www.oliviertheyskens.com.
including those located outside
Australia. If you do not provide us with
requested information we may not
seeking out something more niche … that sets them apart and Erdem from a selection at
www.matchesfashion.com and
Oroton www.oroton.com.au.
Oscar de la Renta jewellery
be able to provide you with the goods
and services you require. Where you
reflects their own individuality,” says Chan. Perhaps this focus on www.Net-A-Porter.com;
www.erdem.com.
from a selection at
www.Net-A-Porter.com.
have entered a competition, we may
disclose your personal information to
authorities if you are a prize winner or
unearthing unfound treasure heralds an exciting era in fashion Falke www.falke.com.
Fendi (02) 9231 3756
P.E. Nation www.pe-nation.com.
Paspaley 1800 888 080.
otherwise as required by law. Further
information about how we handle
where creativity comes first. And with so many different aesthetics or (03) 9569 8024.
Fenty Puma by Rihanna
Paul Andrew
www.paulandrew.com.
personal information, how you can
complain about a breach of the
Australian Privacy Principles, how we
available in these labels, what we are essentially discovering, from a selection at
www.stylerunner.com;
Perricone MD from
a selection at www.
will deal with a complaint of that nature,
how you can access or seek correction
whether that be sifting through the digital jungle late at night or www.puma.com.
Forever New
meccacosmetica.com.au.
Polo Ralph Lauren
of your personal information and
our contact details can be found in our
privacy policy at www.
pounding the pavement searching store to store, is ourselves. ■ www.forevernew.com.au. (02) 9410 2038. newscorpaustraliaprivacy.com.

218 APRIL 2017


HOROSCOPES

ARIES TAURUS GEMINI


21 MARCH – 19 APRIL 20 APRIL – 20 MAY 21 MAY – 21 JUNE
What you thought you wanted could Once you decide to do something Love could hit a roadblock this
turn out to be not what you wanted there’s no stopping you. This is your month. You might be tempted to
at all this month. It might be your most motivated month to upgrade your speed through it but you’re better off
heart making promises your head health, work or to reinvent yourself, and slowing down or going into reverse.
can’t keep. If in doubt, wait it out, as looking back at what has been could be Being too full-on could be a turn-off,
relationships, career or travel could the jump-start you need to move your so ease up on passion and rediscover
be temporarily in limbo. If money is life forwards. Reconnecting with old shared aims, except at work, where
a factor in your decisions, the end of friends or past lovers is also likely now, the more you put in the more you’ll
the month brings you new options. on new and improved terms. get out emotionally and financially.
STYLE ICON: Rooney Mara STYLE ICON: Megan Fox STYLE ICON: Lily-Rose Depp

CANCER LEO VIRGO


22 JUNE – 22 JULY 23 JULY – 22 AUGUST 23 AUGUST – 22 SEPTEMBER
After a spell of uncertainty with your Play down your usual charm and add All the things you thought you knew
career, you’re ready to explore new some hard work and determination inside out could be up for discussion.
options. Keep going with what you and you can’t fail to be a success in a Money, home and romance may be
currently do, but keep an eye open for month that’s all about transformation, adding to the confusion and you
opportunities to retrain or explore especially in terms of career. might get your wires crossed, but don’t
that start-up you’ve always dreamed Love could blossom in unfamiliar get mad, get better informed. By the
of. You might not get the support surroundings, where you’ll get to learn end of the month you’ll be motivated
you’d like at home or from partners more about what you love, and what at work, putting newly acquired
now, but she who dares wins. really makes the people you love tick. knowledge and skills into action.
STYLE ICON: Selena Gomez STYLE ICON: Hayden Panettiere STYLE ICON: Michelle Williams

LIBRA SCORPIO SAGITTARIUS


23 SEPTEMBER – 23 OCTOBER 24 OCTOBER – 22 NOVEMBER 23 NOVEMBER – 21 DECEMBER
You’ve experienced some big changes Relationships get intriguing, if With the routine areas of life you
since October. There are more to confusing, this month. Someone could tend to keep your head down and
come, but this month you need be pressing your buttons at work or power through them, whether it’s a
to stop, look, listen and think for making your heart beat faster in love, fitness routine or dull aspects of your
a while. Ironically, the very act of or a little of both – you’ll know job. Currently you tackle such chores
seeming uninterested could stoke the before the month ends. While with renewed zest, and even make
embers of a confusing relationship. communication and money may seem them fun. Friends may be thin on the
But figure out what you want, to be in reverse, it’s a good time to ground now, so lie low at home, your
especially with your home life. work on your wellbeing and creativity. best place for romance this month.
STYLE ICON: Felicity Jones STYLE ICON: Ashley Graham STYLE ICON: Lucy Liu

CAPRICORN AQUARIUS PISCES


22 DECEMBER – 20 JANUARY 21 JANUARY - 18 FEBRUARY 19 FEBRUARY – 20 MARCH
The power of love could bring some If you’ve been feeling stuck lately you’ll You could rock a retro look or revisit
changes your way now, including a have extra impetus to make things a “blast from the past” lover this
desire to co-create or even procreate. It happen now, especially at home. The month. It feels like a nostalgia-filled
ASTROLOGER: STELLA NOVA

all starts with a rethink of your home bigger picture may be too much to time for passion, money, ambitions
life and a change of direction with handle, so target what’s manageable. and friendships, but avoid wallowing
romance. You’re more in touch with Your neighbourhood or someone in it in “what ifs?”. Learn from your past
your emotions, so say what you feel. If could motivate you to connect through and plough ahead with new plans.
work has been in overdrive, it can tick writing or a short journey, as you start What you put into place now could
along in a lower gear for a while. to sort out the foundations of your life. take root in the coming months.
STYLE ICON: Nigella Lawson STYLE ICON: Alicia Keys STYLE ICON: Lily Collins

VOGUE.COM.AU 219
VOGUE AUSTRALIA
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DREAMERS & DRIFTERS IVORY LANE
Women and Children’s boutique in
Clothing for the Romantic Bohème. the heart of Wollongong featuring
a range of products and brands
Our Winter 2017 campaign was shot including Finders, Zaliah, Cooper
in the Byron Bay hinterland with muse St, Rollas, James Smith, Fella Swim,
Jamie Kidd; Californian style blogger Kore Swim, Cocolux Candles,
and Instagram sensation. Sunday Somewhere, Little Horn,
Sunday the Label, Saya skincare.
Receive 15% Off your first order just use
code: VOGUE 0400 314 091
Shop 5/4 Globe Lane
Wollongong NSW 2500
dreamersdrifters
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dreamersanddrifters.com.au ivorylane.com.au

LELULAH BOUTIQUE
Seeking an effortless shopping
experience?
Renowned for our unique & stylish
range, we will have you feeling
perfectly luxe for every occasion.
Proudly styling sizes 6-18.
Indulge with 15% off your on line
purchase for March & April, simply
HIRIGOYEN use code ‘VOGUEAUS’.
They say there’s nothing free in this world.
Like Vogue ads and good watches. Hirigoyen. Telling it like it is. shop.lelulah
For 15% off: use VOGUE15 lelulahboutique
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AMAROSO
While the sun still shines
and the flowers are still
blooming; lets say bless to
this beautiful mess and
cheers to the good times.
Amaroso is fast becoming BROWS BY ANISA
one of the top Australian
online shopping Anisa uses the Microblading technique which implants colour into the
destinations - let us dress skin creating hairlike strokes that look natural and undetectable.
you in confidence. Perfect for those who want a little definition or those who want to totally
redesign their shape. Achieve semi-permanent perfect Brows 24/7.
boutique.amaroso
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amaroso.com.au browsbyanisa.com.au

THE LITTLE HAUS OF SONG


TANNING DRESS An ode to creativity, HAUS OF SONG
is an Australian luxury ethical
Feel confident in your post womenswear label designed by and
tan glow or after a massage made for empowered, forward-
in one of our stylish designs. thinking women. Coupling exquisite
The LTD is a crease free fabrics with stunning design,
fabric making it ideal for HAUS OF SONG’s curated collections
travel and pregnancy with continuously evolve whilst retaining
room for a growing bump. an air of timelessness.
Free sizing accommodates QUALITY IS LUXURY,
every shape and size.
ATTITUDE IS STYLE.

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littletanningdress.com hausofsong.com.au

To adver tise ple ase contact Amy Fre ar 130 0 139 305 Email: vo gue classi fie ds@newsli feme dia.com.au
lifestyle collection

TOTAL FACE GROUP

‘We believe in a world where acceptance and


compliments can come naturally’

Total Face Group is Australia’s largest group of


premium cosmetic clinics, offering a range of
Cosmetic Beauty Treatments including Cosmetic
Injectables, Skin Solutions and CoolSculpting
body fat reduction.

Total Face Group employs a highly experienced


team of Doctors, Aesthetic Nurse Consultants
and Dermal Therapists as part of our
commitment to customer service, excellence,
education and safety.

Clinics are located in VIC, NSW, ACT & QLD.

Call 13 FACE (13 3223) or visit a clinic to book your


complimentary total face consultation.

13 FACE (13 3223)


totalfacegroup.com.au
FOR GOOD LOOKS

OLIEVE AND OLIE


Is there nothing the humble olive
cannot do? Olieve & Olie have taken
things to the next level with their
beautiful range of olive oil body
products. Each product in the
collection has been handcrafted
from the highest quality ingredients,
so you can expect an experience,
rather than just a product.
ZEBRANO | SIZES 14+
Designer collections, casual wear, essential clothing for everyday. Be first 03 5982 0992
to view the new season collections – have your selection delivered direct info@olieveandolie.com.au
to your door in Australia (gst free). View lookbooks, discover trends and
shop online. olieveandolie
www.zebrano.shop olieveandolie.com.au

THE TACK ROOM


BOUTIQUE
A beautifully curated collection of
Racewear, Millinery, Designer Fashion
and Accessories for the modern
Australian woman.
We Are Kindred, Pasduchas, Ministry
of Style, Mavi, Binny, Cooper Street,
Olga Berg, Phyllis & Mimosa, Scotch &
Soda, Elk Accessories, Mesop, Nude
Footwear, Samantha Wills.

SKIN O2
Feed your lashes.
thetackroomboutique
See results in as little as 4-6 weeks. thetackroomboutique
Shop now skino2.com.au thetackroomboutique.com.au

To adver tise ple ase contact Amy Fre ar 130 0 139 305 Email: vo gue classi fie ds@newsli feme dia.com.au