How to Take Body Measurements for Dress

Making
in Pattern
Body measurement:
The definition of garment sizing and fit has evolved over time. Current garment sizing is based
on the standard measurements of one single fit model of the ideal customer that is representative
of the target market for a given style of garment. For perfect sizing of garment body
measurement is very important. Body measurement plays a vital role in better fitting of garments
to the human body. Hence, it is crucial for a designer or dressmaker to have better knowledge of
body anatomy as well as the correct procedure for taking body measurements. For efficient
fabric utilisation in the cutting room, the designer should know the size and shape of the body for
which the designing has to be done, and it begins with the eight head theory.

Body anatomy:
The father of tailoring, Mr. Wampon, drew seven imaginary lines across the body structure for
the purpose of easy measurement in tailoring. The complete body structure was lengthwise
divided into eight equal parts, which is known as the eight head theory. This theory has become
the foundation of all fashion drawing and for understanding the body shape and structure for
fashion.

Eight Head Theory:

According to this theory, the normal body structure is considered 5′4″ height. This body is
divided into 8 parts in which each part is 8″ in length. A development of this theory is the ten
head theory, which is used for all fashion drawing. This figure is referred to as fashion model
figure. In this system, the body structure is divided into ten equal parts or heads. The bottom part
of the body is longer compared to the eight head figure. The ideal height for this theory is taken
to be 5′8″. The division of body structure in the eight head principle is shown in Figure-1.
 Figure-1: Eight head theory
1. Hair to chin: The garments are generally worn on the body through the head and
hence hat or cap head measurements should be taken. The right place on the neck is the chin
 itself. Yoke measurements are taken 1″ below the chin. The head is considered the first
portion of the human body and the chin is considered a first imaginary line.
2. Chin to nipple: The upper body garments are prepared according to the size of the
chest only. This is the second part and the second imaginary line passes through the nipples
and the armscye. This line denotes the bust level.
3. Nipple to navel: The next imaginary line passes through the navel; shoulder to waist is
measured up to the navel points. This level is the waist level. But for proper garment fitting,
the waist measurement for ladies is taken 1″ above the waist level and for men 1/2” below
the line.
4. Navel to pubic organs: This part is most important for lower body garments. The
lower body garments are cut based on the hip size. The hip level is usually 3–4″ above this
imaginary line. This is the most heavy or fat part of the body. This is also as important as
the chest measurements.
5. Pubic organ to mid thigh: This part is important mainly for arm measurements. The
fingertips normally end near about this line. The length of the arms is measured as 3 heads.
6. Mid thigh to small: The part below the knee is known as small. The knee level is
about 2–3″ above this imaginary line. Length of gowns is taken around this head.
7. Small to ankle: This head is important for full length garments like trousers. These
garments usually end here. The calf level is above this head. House coats, nightgowns, etc.
end at the calf level.
8. Ankle to feet: The eight heads are imagined on assuming a person standing on the
toes. This is the last head and it comprises only the feet. This is necessary for tight fitting
leggings and floor-length garments like evening gowns.
Advantages of the eight head theories:
1. By the knowledge of eight head theory, the observation of the body structure becomes
easy.
2. It will facilitate drafting and fitting. If there happens to be any fault, then it shall be
detected and rectified.
3. Knowledge of body structure shall be helpful in taking correct measurement and this
will result in correct cutting and the garment shall be stitched properly.
4. Work shall be easily and speedily executed.
Ten Head Theory:
The ten head figure is considered the fashion figure. This is mostly used for fashion drawing and
designing. The division of body structure in the ten head principle is shown in Figure-2.
 Figure-2: Ten head theory
1. Head to chin: Like the eight head figure, the head is the first part. The first imaginary
line is at the level of the chin.
2. Chin to bust: This is the second and the most significant part of the figure. The second
imaginary line is across the bust and the armscye. The shoulder level is in between this part,
which is wider than the eight head figure.
3. Waist level: In the ten head figure, the waist level is about 2–21/2″, below the third
imaginary line.
4. The hip level: The hip level is also 2–3″ below the fourth imaginary line. This is also
the end of the torso level. The torso of the ten head figure is longer than the eight head
figure. This is also a very important level for fashion figures.
5. The end of pubic organs: This is the position of the fifth imaginary line. The hand
usually ends just below this line.
6. Knee level: The knee level is in between the sixth and seventh imaginary line. The
sixth line signifies the end of the thigh whereas the seventh line is at the level of the small.
7. Calf level: The eighth line signifies the calf level. The lengths of leg are longer in the
ten head figure compared to the eight head figure.
8. Ankle level: The ankles are at the ninth imaginary line.
9. Feet: The last parts of this figure are the feet. Like the eight head figure, this figure too
is assumed to be standing on its toes.
Body measurement techniques:
The following points have to be taken into account while taking body measurements.

1. Prior to taking the body measurements, it is advisable to understand the customer’s

requirements, concerning the shape, fit, and style of the garment.
2. It is important to study the human anatomy carefully and if any variation in body
proportion is noticed, it has to be recorded and should be taken into account while taking
measurements and pattern making.
3. While taking the measurements, the person should stand straight in front of a mirror.
4. Body measurements should be taken with tape, without keeping it too tight or loose
with the body.
5. The measurements should be taken in the appropriate order and with a definite
sequence.
6. All girth measurements should be taken tightly, since ease allowance is incorporated in
the draft.
7. After taking all the measurements, they should be rechecked twice.
Taking body measurement:
Bodice measurements. The various bodice measurements are shown in Figure-3.
 Figure-3: Body measurement
1. Bust: Measurement has to be taken about the fullest part of the chest/bust by raising
the measuring tape to a level slightly below the shoulder blades at the back.
2. Waist: Measurement has to be taken tightly around the waist with the tape straight.
3. Neck: Measurement has to be taken around the neck, by keeping the tape slightly
above the collar front and along the base of the neck at the back.
4. Shoulder: Measurement has to be taken from the neck joint to the arm joint along the
middle of the shoulder (A to B in Figure-3).
5. Front waist length: Measurement has to be taken down from the high point shoulder
(HPS) to waist line through the fullest part of the bust (A to C Figure-3).
6. Shoulder to bust: Measurement has to be taken down from the HPS to the tip of the
bust (A to D in Figure-3).
7. Separation of bust points: Measurement has to be taken between the two bust/chest
points (D to E Figure-3).
8. Across back measurement: Measurement has to be taken across the back between
armholes about 3″ below the base of the neck (P to Q in Figure-3).
9. Back waist length: Size has to be measured from the base of the neck at the centre
back position to the waistline (R to S in the Figure-3).
10. Armscye depth: Measurement has to be taken from the base of the neck at the centre
of the back to a point directly below it and in level with the bottom of the arm where it joins
the body (R to T in Figure-3).
Sleeve measurements:
11. Upper arm circumference: Measurement has to be taken around the fullest part of the arm.

12. Lower arm: For the lower arm, measurement has to be taken around the arm at the desired
level corresponding to the lower edge of the sleeve.

13. Elbow circumference: Measurement has to be taken around the arm at the elbow.

14. Wrist: Measurement has to be taken around the wrist.

15. Sleeve length: For short sleeves, the length has to be measured from point B to F. For elbow
length sleeve, measurement has to be taken from the top of the arm to the elbow point (B to G in
Figure-3). For full length, the elbow has to bend slightly and measurement has to be taken down
from the top of the arm to the back of the wrist passing the tape over the elbow point (B to H in
Figure-3).

Skirt measurements:
16. Waist: Measurement has to be taken tightly around the waist with the tape in a horizontal
manner and parallel to the floor.

17. Hip: Measurement has to be taken around the fullest part of the hip horizontally (7–9″ from
waist approximately).

18. Waist to hip: Measurement has to be taken from the waist at the center of the back to the
fullest part of the hip (S to U in Figure-3).

19. Skirt length: Measurement has to be taken at the center of the back from the waist to length
of the skirt as required (S to V in Figure-3).

The calculation of other measurements using chest circumference is shown in Table-1. After
taking the measurements, compare it with the sample measurements for women, men and
children garments as given in Tables-2 through 3, 4 respectively.
Table-1: Determination of Other Dimensions from the Chest Circumference

Table-2: Sample Measurements for Ladies’ Garments

Notes: All measurements are inches; cir – circumference.

a
All the dimensions vary based on the height of the person.

Table-3: Sample Measurements for Boys’ Garments

Table-4: Sample Measurements for Children’s Garments