CREATIVE TEXTILE

PORTFOLIO
MODULE - FASHION MATERIAL

COHORT- 2016-20
SURESH DAS
UGFD
LEVEL- 1
SEC- B
PEARL ACADEMY NOIDA
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The success and final outcome of this project required a lot of guid-
ance and assistance from many people and I am extremely privileged to
have got this all along the completion of my portfolio. I would like to ex-
tend my sincere thanks to the Pearl Academy for providing us to work
on this project.

I am highly indebted to Mr. Bhaskar Mitra for his guidance and constant
supervision as well as for providing necessary information regarding the
portfolio & also for his support in completing the portfolio.

I am highly obliged and grateful towards Ms. Shazia Amanat, Ms. Maya
Keischgens Ms. Ashima Joshi Kukreti and Ms. Saroj Bala, for all the sup-
port and guidance they have provided me with to grow, understand and
progress in my project.
Their guidance have helped me in doing a lot of research which has wid-
ened my vision.

Last but not the least, I would like to thank my parents and my peer
group for their continuous support without which this project would
not have been possible.
 CONTENTS

1. TIE AND DYE TECHNIQUES

( SHIBORI, OMBRE, CLAMPING, RUBBERBANDS, THREADS, PVC PIPE, WOODEN BEADS)

2. OTHERS
( STAINING, RUSTING, BLOCK PRINTING)
PROCESS OF 2 TECHNINQUES

3. EMBROIDERIES – MS. SHAZIA AMANAT

( KANTHA, KASHIDAKARI, PHULKARI, CHIKANKARI, MANIPURI, KUTCHH )
-KASHMIRI VELVET AND SMOCKING - MS. MAYA KEISHCIENG

2. UPCYCLING
3. MACRAME - MS. ASHIMA JOSHI KUKRETI
MACRAME SWATCH

4. FELTING
( WET, DRY, NUNO)

5. DENIM EXPLORATION –MS. MAYA KEISHCIENG

 COLOR TREND & FASHION FORECAST

The colour forecasting process is one of great complexity and very much an intuitive one. As yet, little information exists about its
methodology, even though the process is considered to be a major driving force of the fashion and textile industry.

Colour forecasting is a fundamental part of a collective process known as fashion forecasting or trend prediction,where individuals
or teams attempt to accurately forecast the colours, fabrics and styles of fashionable garments and accessories that consumers will pur-
chase in the near future,approximately two years ahead.

The process of colour forecasting is basically one of collecting, evaluating, analysing and interpreting data to anticipate a range of
colours desirable by the consumer, using a strong element of intuition, inspiration and creativity.

I have choosen this color because I always love blue because it express calmness in any garment.

+
 TIE & DIE

wThe history of dyeing can be dated back to pre-historic times. This
art finds its mentions in the Alexander the great time texts about the beautiful printed cot-
tons of India. As per evidences in Historical Texts, the first Bandhani saree was worn at the time
of Bana Bhatt`s Harshacharita in a royal marriage. It was believed that wearing a Bandhani saree can
bring good future to a bride. The dyers have experimented with the use of different elements both natural
and man made for ages. Also there are experiments with different binding/tying techniques to create patterns on
cloth immersed in containers of dye. Different types of tie and dyes have been practiced in India, Japan, and Africa for
centuries. Tie-dye became fully developed in China during the T`ang dynasty (618-906 A.D.) and in Japan during the Nara
period (552-794 A.D.) Tie-dye boomed back into popularity in the late 1960s. Celebrities like Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix,
Jerry Garcia who were part of the subculture were partially responsible for bringing the look back to life.
At EastEssence we pride ourselves in introducing the unique and ethnic techniques on modern silhouettes
 CLAMPING TECHNIQUE

2
1

Raw Materials maslin folded and fixed with clamp

3
4 5

color box with 48 colors color swatch with all web colors
die hot pot with wooden stick for shakeing

Process :

1. I have tried this technique of tie nad die with 80M cotton
bleached fabric fabric as raw material.
2. Unbleached the fabric with Nacl or salt.
3. folded and temporarily fixed with clamp.
4. color pallate is matched with color guide book.
5. finally died in 100 degree centregrade temparature with constant
stirring with a stick.
6. clips were removed and dried up in the air.

Reflection :
At the very begining I was confused about the color pallete
and the color accuracy on fabric. But I followed The instruction given
by prof. Mitra, it helps me grow my confidence to make the first step.
But again prof was not happy with my work, and I got a redo on this.
Finally I got this swatch after 3 trial. And I was happy after seeing the
texture of the swatches and color.

final swatch
 ICE-CREAM STICK TECHNIQUE

RAW MATERIALS maslin folded and fixed with sticks

color box with 48 colors color swatch with all web colors
die hot pot with wooden stick for shakeing

process :
1. I Started with the 80M cotton fabric as raw matrerial
2. Nacl was used to remove stearch.
3. dried and folded with I ce cream stick
4. Fixd with rubber band.
5. Died in 100 degree centregrade temparature with constant stirring
with a stick.
6. openened and dried ad finally ironed the swatch.

Reflection :
After doing few samples I make the sample neatly as “ Barik
ki se kaam” as proverb in Hindi. This time prof. appriciate dwith my
work. and I just go ahed for next.

final swatch
 FINAL SWATCHWES
3

1. pipe technique
2 Ombre
3. wooden block technique
4. wooden beads
5. rusting

REFLECTION:
Tie and dye always fun learning for me. mthroughout the process I made mistakes a lot. Thenwhen I got understood the techniqu, I looked after other
people’s work. finally I have some with my own design.
During feedback prof. mitra saying nothing speial strength in your work and you have to explore more. I think the most important thing I learned was
to accept the feedback that I get from other people. I always receive feedback, but mostly choose to ignore it because I think my own ideas are better. Even if
I don’t want to use the feedback I get, I should at least test it out to see if it would improve my composition.
Another thing I learned is that there are no boundaries as to how your work should look. For example, my idea of a handbook cover is for it to be calm
and mysterious. When the handbook cover is chosen, it’s most probably going to be a piece that is eye-catching, unique, detailed and neat. The two main
things I learned is that I should always take feedback into consideration, and I should never set boundaries as to what my work can be.
 SURFACE EXPLORATION

I define surface design as any technique that manipulates or changes the surface of a fabric. This would in-
clude: painting, dyeing, printing/stamping, stenciling, applying resists, stitching, embellishing (e.g. adding beads),
collaging, weaving, etc.

What I love about using surface design techniques is that I have control over what I want to design for a par-
ticular functional or non-functional piece. If I can’t find it commercially, I can make my own piece of fabric using
colors I’ve mixed and designs I’ve created. I have used pleating, ripping, stittiching, applique, felting, dyeing tech-
nique that all I have learned in this module so far.
 FINAL SWATCHWES

1 3

4
4 5

1. 100% cotton box pleated fabric with patch work by fusing and wool. covered by ripping and dyeing technique..
2. 100 % cotton fabric with stitching and applique work and dyed with color proposed.
3. 100 % cotton fabric,pin tucked and dyed with proposed color.
4. chiffon fabric dyed with color and composed by macrame.
5. Silk fabric is died by proposed color and composed with silk ribbons in macrame form.

REFLECTION :
After learning all the tie and dye technique and other input from different strands, I thought my surface should be used in any sort of garment which
looks better as a whole. So I have tried to keep my design simple color which are cool in nature. When it comes about the surface, I have used my under-
standing of pleating, tucks, fray ribbons etc.
This time I was bit lazy , I was not able to compleate my work in time and Also there is no feedback from prof. Mitra, I Just stuck to my design what
ever I thought. To be honest there is no design Evolution in my this perticular work.
 EMBROIDARY

Embroidery is the handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials using a needle to apply thread or yarn.

Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as pearls, beads, quills, and sequins. In modern days, embroidery is
usually seen on caps, hats, coats, blankets, dress shirts, denim, dresses, stockings, and golf shirts. Embroidery is available with a wide
variety of thread or yarn color.

Some of the basic techniques or stitches of the earliest embroidery are chain stitch, buttonhole or blanket stitch, running
stitch, satin stitch, cross stitch. Those stitches remain the fundamental techniques of hand embroidery today. (wiki)
 KANTHA EMBROIDARY

Kantha is a form of embroidary often practiced by rural women, specially in
south east Asia. Espacilly in the Indian states of Bengal and Odisha. In Odisha, old
sarees are stacked on each other and hand stiched to make a thin peice cusion. Kan-
tha sarees are traditionally worn by women in Bengal.
Kantha can be traced back to the ancient pre Vedic ages, however, Kantha em-
broidery as we know it today was found in Krishnadas Kaviraj’s 500 year old book,
Chaitanya Charitamrita. Motifs found in early Kantha embroidery include many
symbols that were derived from ancient art. These symbols depict or are reflective
of nature, such as the sun, the tree of life and the the universe. It was not until later
that Kantha embroidery was used as a medium of cultural and religious significance,
which came about as a result of Hinduism’s influence and was used in ceremonies
and pujas, including to celebrate weddings and births.
Stitch-
Kantha embroidary is done with the soft dhotis and sharees, with a simple
running stitch along the edges. Depending upon the on the use of the finished prod-
uct, they are also known as Sujni Kantha.
Fabric -
Kantha embroidary is generally done on old cotton and silk cloath
Designers - Tarun Tailhiyani, Nidhi Suxena, Ritu Mal, and many more
Present Day Scenario- Kantha embrobidary is famous in Japan and
Indonesia and UK . Hilary Clinton wears kantha saree on her visit to India.
(Sourse- www.utspedia.com)

KANTHA SAREE KANTHA SAREE

SOURSE- WWW.VOONIK.COM

REFLECTION :-
I am from west bengal and I used to see the kantha work in my home. my grand parents did
this work with old cotton cloth. here purpose is different, It is mostly for commercial market. overall
experience was good with ameging feedback from teacher. In this perticular part I have learned how
the traditional embroidary going vanished in the modernization , and how to hold them in modern
way. prof. Amanat helped me a lot in this part of assignment. overall it was a good experience.
 MANIPURI EMBROIDARY

Manipur is a land of rich valleys surrounded by beautiful hills and
lakes.Manipur is surrounded by mountains, its beautiful valleys covered with
sheets of water.The people of Manipur are skilled in many arts. The women
of Manipur carry the main burden of the society. The embroidery prepared by
women is delicate and extremely fine.This craft is practiced by both men and
women in Manipur.
Threads and colors
Earlier untwisted silk threads were used. Now the usage of cotton
threads in shades of red, yellow, white, green, and even black is become more
popular.
Stitches
Tiny satin chain and stem stitches are commonly applied. The chain
stitch is mostly utilized for outlining the motifs.
Fabrics
Woven cotton normally with black as the base color, thus the colors of
the embroidery stand out, At times green and yellow was also used.

MSNIPURI SAREE
SOURSE- WWW.VOONIK.COM
MANIPURI EMBROIDARY

REFLECTION :-
My love for the Manipur and the northeast always good, thats why I choose this embroidary to know
more about their tradition. Innintially i was confused with the final outcome of the motif but as far as
I progressed I found it easier. Though I loose my concentration few times and I got my stitch direction
wrong. And I was able to understand my mistakes. hopefully I will do good in next time.
The best learning in this part was to be focousd, not to get diverted during the work.....
 MIROR WORK

Kutch embroidery is a beautiful and heavily detailed form of Indian
traditional embroidery which originates from the Kutch and the Saurashtra
regions of Gujarat in North Western India. Speaking of this part of India, the
images bearing the essence of the Gujarati embroideries are those of colourful
Garba attires, animal clothing and handicrafts bearing gorgeous and exquisite
embroideries. Interestingly a lot of varieties exist in the Kutch embroideries.
Such varieties are a result of socio-economic, historical and cultural influenc-
es that have affected the weaving traditions.

Done on cotton or silk, the Kutch embroideries can be identified among

more than seventeen varieties of embroidery techniques that exist till date. Of
these, six techniques are popular based on regional and community differenc-
es. The embroidery techniques comprise a combination of stitches like—her-
ringbone stitch, darning stitch, chain stitch, buttonhole stitch, running stitch
and cross stitch. The techniques are regionalized; therefore each has a domi-
nance of particular types of stitches. A common trait of the different varieties
is the highly intricate and extensive needlework on the fabric. The use of
mirror or ‘abhla’ is another characteristic of this embroidery. These small mir-
rors and sometimes even beads are used along with the embroideries, placed
decoratively along geometric patterns. (silksore)

Miror work done on kudta MIROR WORK SWATCH

SOURSE- WWW.VOONIK.COM

REFLECTION :-
After doing Kantha and Manipuri Embroidary I was confused what to choose next. I then I de-
cided to to read something about the west India. Again I was not able to make accroding to the craft
person. but I tried my best and I was not happy with the outcome of the final product. I want to redo
this embroidary during my holidays.

 UPCYCLE
GARMENTS
Upcycling, also known as creative reuse, is the process of transforming by-products, waste materials, useless, or unwanted products
into new materials or products of better quality or for better environmental value.

Upcycling is the opposite of downcycling, which is the other half of the recycling process. Downcycling involves converting materials
and products into new materials of lesser quality. Most recycling involves converting or extracting useful materials from a product and cre-
ating a different product or materia.
Upcycleing Supporters of the environmentally friendly practice of upcycling say people in developing countries have effectively been
upcycling for years, using old packaging and clothing in new ways, although more out of need than for the environment. But upcycling is
now taking off in other countries, reflecting an increased interest in eco-friendly products, particularly ones that are priced at an affordable
level and proving profitable for the manufacturers. “If upcycling is going to become mainstream, then the corporate world needs to see that
it can be profitable,” said Albe Zakes, spokesman of U.S. company TerraCycle which specializes in finding new uses for discarded packaging.
A growing number of companies are focusing on upcycling although the trend is still in its infancy with industry-wide figures yet to be pro-
duced. (wiki)
REFLECTION :
Upcycling is a trend that re-imagines thrift shopping by taking unwanted garments and turning them into unique fashion pieces. It’s becoming
more prevalent in London as well: Within the past four years, thrift and upcycled clothing stores have been popping up and attracting students — like
the Filthy Rebena and Plato’s Closet.

Creating a fashion trend out of secondhand or upcycled clothing is something that the social venture, Voguabond, is particularly passionate about. Ivey
Business School graduate Emily Dixon created the business during her undergrad as a way to “connect fashion-forward consumers to independent
designers who are creating one-of-a-kind fashion.”

I found it is the best way for sustainable fashion and making senseble fashion out of waste. During this project I was excited . but as far as
the project progressed I was lacking my Idea. I see few examples from different online store and then I got my Own Idea to devolop my own product.
I used all my old cloath and reshaped It. My prof. Appriciated with my Project and she suggested to explore more. by her fedback i make few more
samples and presented it for the final.
In this project learning was good. I learned how to analyze fabric and placement of different parts in a fashionable way and connect it to the
social noms.
 MACRAME

Macramé is a form of textile produced using knotting (rather than weaving or knitting) techniques.

The primary knots of Macramé are the square knot (a variant of the reef knot) and forms of “hitching”: various combinations
of half hitches. It was long crafted by sailors, especially in elaborate or ornamental knotting forms, to decorate anything from knife
handles to bottles to parts of ships.

Cavandoli macramé is one variety that is used to form geometric and free-form patterns like weaving. The Cavandoli style is
done mainly in a single knot, the double half-hitch knot. Reverse half hitches are sometimes used to maintain balance when working
left and right halves of a balanced piece.

Leather or fabric belts are another accessory often created via macramé techniques. Most friendship bracelets exchanged among
schoolchildren and teens are created using this method. Vendors at theme parks, malls, seasonal fairs and other public places may sell
macramé jewellery or decoration as well. (wiki)
 SWATCHES

REFLECTION :
Finally I am ready with macrame swatch. it was a technical learning in Textile. I came to know how a yarn or cord be converted in to a fabric
or cloath. Innitially it was difficult but as I practiced It became easier. prof kulkareti helped me lot during this project. Finally its a good learning to
build my confidence.
 DENIM

Denim is a sturdy cotton warp-faced textile in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. This twill weaving produces a diagonal rib-
bing that distinguishes it from cotton duck.

The most common denim is indigo denim, in which the warp thread is dyed, while the weft thread is left white. As a result of the warp-faced twill
weaving, one side of the textile is dominated by the blue warp threads and the other side is dominated by the white weft threads. This causes blue
jeans to be white on the inside. The indigo dyeing process, in which the core of the warp threads remains white, creates denim’s signature fading
characteristics. (WIKI)
 DENIM SWATCHES

1 2

4 5

1. Thread work on Denim

2. Tie & dye on Denim
3. Embolishing
4.. Fray on denim
5. Digital print on denim
6. Rusting On denim

REFLECTION
Denim Is always signature style to most of the People. I have Explored different techniques for surface exploration to make denim more fash-
ionable .During the starting of the project Prof KEISHCIENG gave us lots of examples of denim.We came to know about the modern
trend on Denim. Maam’s class always been fun learning for me. all the swatches are devoloped in class and the rusting swatches
is devoloped by a short field visit to “ Chor Bazar”. I got appritiation on all the swatches.
Apart from that I learned how denim is acting with different prints, quality and the construvction of the fabric and many more over
all I love these class and I love to explore more
 SMOCKING

I love fabric manipulation. There are millions of ways to manipulate fabric. One of the ways is smocking. Nothing fancy here, no machines,
no fancy tools. All you need is a ruler, pencil, thread and needle.
On Stripe fabric I gathered up to few rows. The dots will then be at the top of all the gathers. Secure the gather. I wrap it around the pin to
secure.
I Keep repeating until I was get done with all the holes. Then Just tie off the thread on the back side. That is the honey comb stitch. When you get
it tied off then you just want to cut and remove the thread you used to gather with. (the white thread in this case)
Then I piulled the threa and knotted It. Finally I completed with the Smocking.

REFLECTION :

It was a very new technique for me that I have explored. Innitially I waas confued with the outcome. As far as work progressed I got under-
stand the technique and create my own design.
With the help and feedback I was able to complete the assignment
i have learned a different ways of surface exploration in this perticular assignment
 FELTING

Felt making is an ancient technology and although in some respects the process remains the same, the materials used to make felt have
changed quite dramatically. I hope that this post will tell you how to achieve a consistent durable woollen felt after a little practice.
Firstly felt is a non-woven fabric traditionally made from wool or fur.
Under certain conditions wool fibres will irreversibly bind with themselves. These conditions are moisture, friction and a change in pH.
Contemporary felt makers use soap to assist and speed up the felt making process. By bringing these three conditions together the small scales
on the surface of the wool fibre raise and entangle with each other before starting to shrink (thereby creating the felt).
Felt goes through a soft prefelted stage before it becomes properly useable. This prefelt is achieved as soon as the wool has tangled together
but before it has shrunk. Shrinking prefelt (also known as fulling or milling) hardens it, making the felt useable and durable. If you were to use a
felt item that hadn’t been properly fulled you would find that it bobbled, pilled and didn’t keep its shape as well as it ought to. Felt can and does
regularly shrink by 50% which is why the patterns for making felt items appear disproportionately large. Shrinking the felt it is often achieved
by rolling it in a matchstick bamboo mat. It can also be shrunk by picking up the felt and dropping it onto a hard surface (known as percussive
fulling).
 FELTING

NUNO FELTING DRY FELTING

WET FELTING

REFLECTION
Felting one of the other new interesting topic for me. during the class it was fun learning. I enjoyed the class very much. tough there was
difficulties with the needle, -hot water , soap and other material.. Prof appricited my work but she told me to explore more in holidays. overall it
was great experience for me