1

Standard
Operating
Procedures
for
Manufacturing
units
2
 1. Order Cycle

Marketing
Export Sampling
QC Costing
Finishe
d Work Study
Goods
Embroider
y Merchandising

Printin
g Technical &
Production
Planning
Sewing
Cutting Sourcin
Import
Stores g
s

External Entities Production Process

3
 2. Production Flow Chart

Stores Packing
Technical Package of style handed Production Cutting
By the Merchandising Department
Along with the T & A Plan. Technical
Washing
Q/A

Stores issue G.R.N

Within 24 working hrs. Fabric & Trims In house as per T & A.

Fabric Inspections. 10% Inspection by Q/A department. Trim Inspection.

Report to be submitted within 48 hrs.

Merchandising will issue

Fabric issued to Cutting as per cut Cutting Plan & Cut Sheet.
Shade Band 10% Fabric,4 Point
10% Shrinkage.
100% system Sheet quantity.
Fit / Proto Sample.

All Samples should be Approved..

Skewin Contract Seal Sample.
Defects. Width Shading.
g.

Pilot Run of 100 Units.

Production
Manager. Size Set/Rack Sample
Lay Sheet to be Bulk Fabric Laying & Cutting.
Merchandiser. circulated Daily. Production Status
Circulated at 10.00 A.M
Fusing & Assorting.

In put. Loading Plan by Production Manager.

Sewing In Line Check. Final Line Checking. Out Put Washing Finishing Trimming

Cost Final Inspection 24 hrs prior to delivery Date.

Packing. Pressing
Finished Goods. Final
Reconciliation Exportation of Garments. Checking.
Fabric. Within 24 hrs.

4
 3. Sampling

3.1 Objective:
• The throughput time for sample making should be 3 days from cut date.
• To manufacture shirts 100% as per customer requirements.
• Storage and presentation of patterns , samples , trims & fabric wirh proper
identification status for easy retreival.
• To ensure that for all wash codes shrinkages are analysed roll wise either on a
sample lot or 100% roll based on customer requirement and multiple
shrinkage patterns are drawn where required.
• To ensure that the samples are produced keeping in mind the responsibility of
the same in bulk and highlighting to customer if their specification cannot be
met in bulk.

5
3.2 Process flow chart
Process Flow Sampling

6
The sample Room is the “Heart” of any Apparel Manufacturing Organization. Hence
it is utmost important to the Sample room in charge to ensure high quality Samples
within a very short lead-time is submitted & approved by Buyer. Ensure your work
force is adequate to meet the ever-growing demand of samples.

After receiving the Tech pack, Study carefully & revert back within 8 hours for
queries.

As soon as a new tech pack is received, sampling dept. should submit the Mini
markers to the Marketing division & if any changes occur during the process, the
revised Mini marker should be presented immediately if the reason for revision is
valid. Further as a norm, once the mini marker is submitted to a certain styling, The
same yield or less should be maintained for the bulk production as well.

As Intimated above, No Sample is to be cut without the patterns had been checked
against the spec sheet along with the Pattern maker.
All non-wash Garments should be submitted within 3 days Maximum & wash
Garments should be submitted within 4 days.

No Sample is to be undertaken without the sample requisition form (Annexure-1).

7
 Samples to be made in the sample room
• Development Sample
• Salesman samples
• Fit Samples
• Pre production samples
• Testing samples
• Size set

The sample room is not to make any T.O.P Sample or Shipment sample. These
samples should be submitted by the Q/A department & produced in the Production
floor.

The sample room should always maintain a Mini Stores, which should include Fabric
yardage, Zippers, Buttons Thread, buttons, Labels & Tags pertaining to all styles.
Once the Pre Production sample is approved, the size set should be submitted for all
styles & the final Graded pattern would be made. Strictly no pattern revision is to be
made after approval of size set without the approval of Sample room In-charge & the
concerned Merchandiser.

The Approved Pre production sample should be handed over to the R & D
Department during the P.P. meeting.

The Sample room should always cross check all the Shrinkages (Thermal, Cut, Steam,
Washing, Fusing) of the fabric before making samples & adjust patterns accordingly.
All reports / tech pack / manuals etc, should be documented & maintained.
A reference sample should always be kept in house as a representative of any sample,
which is submitted, to Buyers. This is utmost important & should be kept in the
sample room.

8
3.3 Sample Stages:

3.3.1 Development/ Proto

1. The purpose of making a development sample for a buyer is to check for the
look of the style.
2. Receive sampling Indent and fabric
3. Develop pattern for the style.
4. Sample Cutting should be done as per the required numbers with the available
fabric and pattern.
5. Sample sewing: The samples are stitched with available fabric and trims.
6. Checking
7. Finishing and Packing
8. Sending for approval
9. Receive the comments
a. If passed then proceed to next stage with comments if any (new indent
to be issued)
b. If rejected then redo the sample as per comments (new indent to be
issued).

3.3.2 Fit sample

1. Receive sampling Indent
2. Fabric treatment
3. Pattern making/ correction
Rest all stages same as Development except that during checking it is now checked
for measurements and fit.

3.3.3 Pre production Sample/ Sealer/ Gold Seal

The purpose of making a pre production Sample is to check for the actual fabric and
trims and style.
Input: Comments on Fit sample, shrinkage report.
The process remains same as the previous stage.

9
This is like a sealer for the production, so whatever changes if need to be done, should
be made before this stage.
So, the sample should be looked for production feasibility before this.

3.3.4 Size Set

The purpose is to check all sizes for measurements based on the graded spec.
The process remains same as the previous stage except that the graded spec is
required and checked in each stage.

10
 4. Research & Development

4.1 Objective: - The purpose of R&D department is to research on the style in all
aspects like construction details, methods, production feasibility and identifying
potential problems.

4.2 Interfacing Departments

4.2.1Planning

• Sending the samples for SMV and Thread consumption calculation

• Pilot loading plan and priorities (Annexure- 2)

4.2.2 Merchandising:

• Merchandiser issues the work order to stores to open the bales and send for
shrinkage testing.
• Sends the PP sample and comments to pattern master.
• Giving the requirement for pilot if needed and how many samples are
required.

4.2.3 IED
• SMV
• Thread consumption
• Layout
• Operation bulletin
• Manpower allocation

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4.3 Process Flow Pilot Run

Receipt of file and PP sample

Receipt of shrinkage report

Pattern amendment and grading for base pattern

Making hard pattern

Pattern checking and Issue to pilot run

Getting fabric issued for required number of pcs

Cutting (manual) Cutting one size

Checking cutsetpanels
(manual) Cutting 100/ 200 pcs (straight
Checking cut panels knife/ autocutter)
Checking cut panels
Loading and sewing
Loading and sewing
Loading and sewing
Pieces ready
Pieces ready Pieces ready
Checking before
wash measurements
Checking before Checking before
wash measurements wash measurements
Washing
Washing Washing
Checking after wash
Checking after wash measurements
Checking after wash
measurements
measurements
Report given to
Report given to
master
master Report given to
master
Pattern amendment Pattern amendment
and grading
Pilot offered
Proceed for bulk cutting Amendment Receive comments

12
4.4 Purpose:

The purpose of making pilot is to see how the fabric will behave when constructed in
a garment during bulk production.
It is the representation of the bulk. It has to be done in actual fabric and actual sewing
trims.
A Pilot lot is a small cut across all sizes and colors, which will identify any potential
problem in manufacturing prior to the factory cutting bulk.
Pilot runs covering all colors & sizes are applied on all styles (even repeat style with
different fabrication) except for test orders.
Pilot run garments are carefully assessed on construction, making up method,
machines used, measurement, washing & pressing effect etc., & report is kept for
reference.
Necessary adjustment is made on pattern, machinery setting, seam allowance, sewing,
washing & pressing methods etc., prior to bulk cutting / production.

The sample size differs from buyer to buyer as follows:

• Express: 3 samples per size covering all sizes in a color i.e. if there are 4 sizes
in one color then it accounts for 12 samples per color.
• S. Oliver: 2 samples per size covering all the sizes in a color i.e. if there are
four colors and five sizes then it accounts for 40 pcs a pilot.
• Armani Exchange/ Arrow/ Izod (Triburg): 5 samples per size covering all the
sizes in a color i.e. if there are four colors and five sizes then it accounts for
100 pcs a pilot.
• M & S/ Esprit: 2 pc per size in all colors i.e. total 12 – 15 pcs in all colors.
• Tommy Hilfieger: 4 pcs in M size for all colors and doing jumping sizes in all
colors. The requirement is minimum 25 pcs per pilot.
• Marc O’ Polo: 2 pcs per size in jumping colors.
• Monoprix: 2 pcs per size.
• Levis Dockers/ Levis Signature: 3 pcs per size in all jumping colors.
This ultimately will ensure that bulk production will not be affected and that mistakes
if any will be made and corrected during the Pilot.

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Pilot lots are cut for the following reasons:

• It might be that factory is working on a new fabric type that it has not handled
before, therefore handling and machine settings must be looked at and set
accordingly.
• New construction methods.
• New machinery, or new settings
• Ensure that shrinkage allowances built into patterns are correct for steam shrinkage,
washing shrinkage or any other after treatment standard.
• Early T.O.P. approval. If there are no issues with the first Pilot cutting then the
factory will automatically have garments to send for approval.

This must be looked at as opportunity to find and iron out problems before bulk rather
than just another procedure. To standardize this process all sizes and colors have to
cut across a specified quantity. The assessment form must be filled in and counter
signed by a management, to ensure that all areas have been analyzed with a specified
course of action needed for bulk.
This must be filed in the Master style file.

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4.5 The working of the pilot department is as follows:

Receiving the PP sample and File:

After the PP sample is approved with some comments, it is handed over to pattern
section for making the patterns. The patterns are amended and graded. The required
shrinkage is added lengthwise and width wise and then issued for subsequent
processes. Style file contains all the critical details about a particular style. The file
build depends on the buyer. But primarily file includes following details.
Manual Work Order
PO Sheet
Bill Of Materials
Tech Pack
Buyer Comments
Pre production meeting comments
Fabric swatch(shade band, wash standards & hand feel)
Approved Trim card
Fabric/accessories/garment test report
Standard procedure

The pilot is cut and made in the required rolls of decided shrinkage.

Pattern Amendment
According to the fabric shrinkage report, the required shrinkage is added to already
graded patterns. The hard pattern for base size is then prepared and issued to pilot
section for cutting.

Pattern review
The pattern is reviewed. On the basis of shrinkage, before and after wash
measurements are prepared.

Fabric Issues
The required fabric rolls are issued in each color.

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Making the base size
The base size “M” is then cut in each color and loaded in line for sewing. As soon as
the pieces are ready, they are reviewed for before wash measurements and
construction and sent for wash if required and after required ironing/ pressing, the
samples are reviewed for after wash shrinkage.

Pattern amendment and issues

If the actual after wash measurements are not tallying with the required
measurements, the pattern needs to be amended. The report is given to the master and
accordingly after correcting the patterns, the hard patterns are prepared.

Making the size set

The extreme sizes (i.e. S and XXL for sizes S to XXL) in all colors are cut and
stitched. After washing (if needed) and ironing the size sets are reviewed. If any
discrepancy is there the report is given again for pattern amendment.
Based on these two steps, the patterns are finalized and then issued for cutting pilot.

Pilot Cutting
The marker for approximately 200 pcs across all the colors is then issued for cutting.
Depending upon the requirement, the full cut parts are taken from these cut lay and
loaded in the pilot line. The balance cut parts are taken for loading in and setting the
decided production line. (Annexure –3)
Outsourced process
As per the requirement for embroidery/ printing or in case of any outsourced process,
the panels are cut and sent outside with markings and other instructions.

Pilot Sewing
The actual trims and threads are used for making the pilot. The operation breakdown
for a style is done by the I.E. dept. along with the machinery requirement and layout.
The stitching is done by experienced operators under the supervision of trainers. The
whole stitching process is monitored by the technical manager so as to get a fair idea
of how to set the process for the bulk. Each operation is critically analyzed and
assessed so as to get maximum productivity from the assembly lines in the bulk
production maintaining the desired quality standards. The trainers after analyzing the

16
operations help the operators in the sewing lines for critical operations and thus
minimize the area under learning curve (reduces learning time).

Taking before wash measurements

The master gives the before wash and after wash measurement sheet. The before wash
measurements are reviewed by the QC and in case of any discrepancy, it is
immediately brought in notice of the master. At this time the pieces are also checked
for any quality defects.

Outsourced process
If the embroidery/ print has to be done after garment is made, it is sent for
embroidery/ print with all the markings as per specifications.

Taking After wash measurements

After the pieces are received from washing, it is ironed as per the specification i.e.
clean press/ flat press/ only steam or no steam, no iron. These are then reviewed for
measurements and quality. The reports are handed over to master for immediate
pattern correction for bulk.

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4.6. Reports given by pilot department
Giving comments and amendments. The QA gives the following reports:
1. Measurement report (Annexure 4)
2. Pilot comment sheet (Annexure 5)
3. Amendment sheet (Annexure- 6)

4.7. Pilot decision and Offer

The decision has to be taken by the section head and the QA as to if the pilot is passed
and can be offered to the buyer. If the pilot needs to be redone, immediately action
needs to be taken for pattern amendment, cutting, stitching and sending for wash. The
pieces are offered to the buyer along with all the following:
• Style file
• PP sample
• Patterns
• Shrinkage report
• Before and afterwash measurement report.
• Pilot Comment sheet
• Amendment sheet.

4.8. Receiving comments from buyer

The pilot is offered to the buyer and the comments given are incorporated into the
bulk.
The comments regarding workmanship is explained and discussed in the handover
meeting.

4.9. Proceed for bulk

The bulk is proceeded on the basis of the internal and buyer pilot review report.

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 5. Industrial Engineering Procedures

5.1 Process Flow

The general process flow is as follows:

Samples from the planning department

Operation bulletin

SMV calculation and setting the targets

Thread consumption

Line balancing and operator allocation

Line layout plan

Process plan

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5.2 Work Measurement.

Work Measurement ( Time Study ) is an Integral part in the Manufacture of

Garments. It is utmost necessary for any Manufacturing unit to have this department
in house at full function, As it lends a supportive hand on many aspects as follows,
The provision of standard times for separate operations & complete process allows
better planning for the manufacture of Garment, by encouraging a conscious
numerical analysis before designing operations & process. This will enable to
maintain an improved level of productivity which would enable to meet Buyers dead
lines on a regular manner.
This system would enable the management to segregate its work force in a productive
manner which would be an effect on the CM ( Cut & Making of the Garment ), Where
excess & non productive workers could be utilized for other operations.
This system enables the management for a proper comparison between operations &
workers,& the worker productivity.
Time study supplies an essential item of information for making Investment decisions
as well. By working out this system, The management could Invest on Hi-tech
Machinery which would analyze the cost of labor.
Work study provides a sounder basis for Incentive payment schemes to workers,
because it allows comparisons to be made between individual operators on the same
task entrusted.

5.3 Time study procedures.

Time study procedure may conveniently be analyzed under four headings..
• Defining the operation to be timed.
• Timing each element using a stop watch.
• Rating.
• Allowances or ex gratia
• Pre Production work Instructions for Work study Officers.

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5.4. Receive sample from Merchandising Dept.
• Analyze the sample & prepare “ Operational Break down”.
• Assign required M/C, Folders, Work Aids, SMV & Target within 8 working
hours.
• Check available work aids & confirm the availability.
• Refer “Data Base” to assign SMV.
• Use “CMA” package to calculate SMV for new operations which is not in the
data base.
• Calculate the total SMV for the garment & submit to the merchandising dept
within 8 working hrs.
• Draw garments tree diagram according to critical path by using the PC.
• Participate with the sample room during making of samples to analyze the
styling in detail.
• Check the practicalities of all operations & ways to minimize operations &
M/C.
• Prepare “ Critical Operation Analysis” report.
• Prepare operational lay out plan for sewing section.
• Discuss production schedule & manning allocations with Production Manager.
• Lay out systems & special technical points.
• Prepare lay out as per critical path.
• Use M/C requirement list for manning, basic pitch time & target calculation.
• Check complete lay out with production assistance & discuss with relevant
depts.
• Submit M/C lay out Mechanic.
• Participate in “Pre production meeting”.
• Analyze workers performance records.
• Ensure the submitted SMV is achieved always during production & ways of
reducing SMV.
• The request is received from the planning department along with the PP
sample. The garment is studied and broken down into individual operations
and time is allocated to each operation, based on which the following are
calculated.

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 5.4.1. SMV Calculation
SMV (Standard Minute Value) calculations are done based on pre-determined
standard motion studies. The Style is being broken in to individual operations and the
time for each operation is determined. The machines used for completing the style is
also determined. The SMVs calculated are listed in a operation Bulletin and the total
target is determined based on the total work-stations required.
Encl: Operation Bulletion-Annexure 7

5.4.2. Thread Consumption

The thread consumption for the garment is calculated based on the operation
breakdown. The factor is multiplied with the length of seam for each operation.
Details of Thread
S.No. Type of M/c Thread factor/cm Thread Wastage Needle Bobbin Looper Total
1 SNLS 3 2 1 1 2
2 DNLS 6 2 2 2 4
3 OL(3T) 19 3 1 2 3
4 OL(5T) 24 3 2 3 5
5 F.O.A 14 3 2 2 4
6 B.H 60 NW 1 1 2
7 BUTTON 25 NW 1 1 2
8 BARTACK 30 NW 1 1 2
9 PINTUCK(PER Stitch) 7 3 1 2 3
10 PICOATING 35 3 2 4 6
11 KANSAI 14 3 2 2 4
12 FLAT-LOCK 33 3 2 1 3
13 BLIND STITCH 2" 1 1 2
14 KEY-HOLE 50 NW 1 6 7

5.4.3. Line Lay-Out (Annexure 8 )

The total floor-layout is drawn to have a proper process flow for each department
from cutting to Finishing.

5.4.4. Technical Lay-Out (Annexure 9)

The technical Lay-out is drawn based on the operation bulletin and the flow of work
process. The allocation of the work-stations is based on the SMVs and capacity of the
operators. The total process flow is drawn and the targets are set based on the total
available work-stations.
The technical layout also contains the type of folders and attachments to be used.
Layout for all styles should be standard.

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5.5. Technical spec detail sheet (Annexure 10)

The R & D department should give the technical spec detail sheet, which contains all
the details regarding the style.
It includes the following:
• Order qty
• Style description
• Fabric details
• Cutting details
• Sewing details
• Sewing trims
• Process flow
• Special instructions

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5.6. Risk Analysis
There are risks associated with manufacturing processes which can result in failure of
the product, either in production or in use by the customer. Understanding and
militating against these risks at the design stage is fundamental to the success of the
product. By assessing the risks sufficiently early in the design process, delays in
production and right first time products can be achieved.
The factory must carry out some kind of Risk Analysis process (e.g. a meeting which
includes members of the key production departments)
The factory must be able to demonstrate that the procedure is understood and can
identify potential risks with raw materials, process methods, equipment, storage, end
user safety.

5.6.1 Risk Analysis procedure

Quality and safety must be designed, planned and built into the product. It is
sometimes difficult to foresee all the possible modes of failure allowing for all the
conditions of use or indeed misuse. Without a systematic approach, it is likely that
some element will be missed resulting in a failure and possible injury to the wearer.

This risk analysis procedure is designed to provide that opportunity to identify and
forestall those potential hazards. By examining each design or process in detail and
identifying the effects of failure, together with possible causes, it is possible to
propose actions to introduce controls to reduce the failure rate and/or minimise the
impact of a failure.

When considering potential failure it is important to have access to data relating to

failures which occurred on similar components/ assemblies in the past.

Risk analysis should be a team activity relying on input from experienced personnel; a
typical team would consist of design, development, industrial engineer, production
manager and quality manager. The completed risk analysis should then be circulated
to relevant departments with a request for comments. It is important to obtain
feedback from all departments so they may, from their own unique experience, have

24
the opportunity to suggest other potential failure modes which the team carrying out
the analysis may not have considered.
5.6.2 Analysis

The analysis will consider all areas of potential failure and establish preventative
actions, which may include special test requirements, inspection recommendations,
preventative maintenance or operational constraints. The analysis starts with the most
basic component and works progressively through the complete system. It is essential
to ensure that every selected component, sub-assembly and design feature within the
product is adequately covered by the analysis. The person responsible for the Risk
Analysis, ideally senior production managers, should ensure that all recommendations
resulting from the analysis are carried out. The Risk analysis is documented using a
standards form, attached, which is designed to guide the team to ask the correct
questions and effectiveness of the analysis will depend of their accurate completion of
this form.

The procedure (Annexure 11)

1. Clearly identify every component being studied, including assemblies and sub-
assemblies.
2. Describe the purpose of the component or assembly. This is very helpful in
identifying the possible models of failure.
3. Anticipate and describe the possible way the part could fail. Consider how the
failure could be observed. A safety failure must always be considered more
serious than a quality failure.
4. Assume the failure mode has occurred and then describe what the effect would
be in terms of what would be noticed. The effects noticed both locally and on
the whole should be listed. E.g. the colour bleeds off the product and
contaminates accessory. There could be more than one effect and the same
effect could apply to a number of failures.
5. List every potential cause of failure for each of the failure modes as the design
currently stands. There is a low risk if potential failure is certain to be detected
before the product reached the customer, and high risk of it would be
impossible to detect the potential failure before the product reaches the
customer. In order to improve detection it may be necessary to specify

25
 additional controls at an earlier stage so that a potential failure is more easily
detectable.
6. Recommend corrective action. The action required to correct a possible failure
should be clearly stated. If an action has already been taken it is helpful to
record the current status.
7. Identify the most appropriate person for implementing the recommended
action.
8. Document the action taken. In every case where recommended action is
required state what action has been taken to eliminate the cause of failure,
reduce the degree of severity; reduce the probability of its occurrence.

26
 6. Fabric & Trim Stores
6.1 Objectives:
• GIR to GRN through put time <7 days.
• Ensure no short supply of fabric. Trims before bulk production
• No stock out on consumables.
• Approval of trims to sought before bulk production.
• Issues of trims to sewing with 2 hours of receipt of the indent.

27
6.2 Process Flow

Process module fabric stores

28
6.3 Pre-Fabric Receive Activities
The monthly planner for fabric in-house should come to the store in-charge with the
weekly updates and changes should be communicated at the very instant of the
occurrence.
The fabric purchase team should make sure to in-house the planned initial yardages of
the fabric at least before 20 days to carry out pilot run and for bulk maximum 8-10
days. The necessary follow-up in reading should be done by the store in-charge.
If in case fabric is late by the planned date for receiving then the same should be
intimated to the planning, cutting, and merchandiser so that the necessary priority can
be changed and required follow up can be done.
For making the packing slip either of the following is required.
1. Fabric end bits should be received from the supplier prior to fabric in-house
clearly mentioning the lot no., roll no in reference to their dispatched rolls and
meters.
2. Shade cards (Annexure 12) should be received by the fabric purchase team
and then same should be given to the fabric inspection team.
3. The invoice or Delivery Chalan copy should have a mill /supplier packing slip
having following details: - Roll No., Shade, Meters, Width.

29
6.4. Fabric Receive:
6.4.1 Unloading the fabric:
Unloading should be done in the presence of fabric in charge/supervisor and person
responsible for fabric receive as per the stores structure.

The supplier invoice or the transporters copy of the Delivery Chalan should be
checked by the fabric in charge and then unloading should be done in the quarantine
area. The bale numbers are counted and cross checked against the supplier’s packing
list while unloading and it is verified by the fabric receive person.
If quantity is less then the transporters is informed and recorded on collection advice /
Invoice / DC.

The Invoice copy along with fabric swatch should be filed in “Daily fabric receive
file” and at the end of the day material inward details should be updated by the fabric
receive person.

The information of fabric received against the Purchase No. is informed to the
purchase person and the concerned merchandiser.

The packing list should be made which includes roll no. (Supplier roll no), length,
width and shade.

How to unload the fabric

Unloading should be done manually.

Maximum of 3 to 4 persons are required in unloading activity.
The unloaded bales from trucks have to be kept on Cart Trolley by 2 Persons.
Two persons will move that loaded cart trolley to the quarantine area.

30
6.4.2 Stacking the bales in quarantine area:

Storing of bales has to be done as per color wise/lot wise by two persons on the
wooden palettes.
If in the same lot too much variable meterages are there, and then care should be
taken while stacking the rolls, the bigger value of meters should preferably be kept
first and then the smaller ones.
In case of meterage folds the fabric should be staked in linear form of one above
another. All the fabric bales/roles should be stacked in pyramid form in the quarantine
area.

The bales should be covered by the plastic sheets. It is must for meter fold and
optional for roll form of fabric because it comes in poly packing.
All lots should have a identification card showing brand name, supplier name, fabric
receive date, fabric code, lot no, color and shade no, invoice qt. and total rolls.

Design Approval: The fabric swatch is taken and sent to the concerned merchandiser
for the design, and face approval (Annexure 13).

6.4.3 Issuing fabric for Inspection

10 % fabric from each lot and shade is offered for fabric inspection.
In the above 10% fabric the sample rolls will be decided by the random number
generator software where the number of rolls received will be input by the fabric
inspector. The number of sample rolls will be generated and the same should be taken
from packing slip (S. No.) for inspection.

6.4.4 Shrinkage testing (Annexure 14)

The shrinkage should be tested warpwise and weftwise. The shrinkage testing method
is as follows:
1. Take the fabric swatch.
2. Mark 25cm X 25 cm on the fabric in the centre excluding the selvedge.
3. Cutting Shrinkage (Only for specific fabric types): Cut the swatch and relax
for some time. Measure the swatch again.

31
 4. Note the fabric shrinkage due to cutting.
5. Sewing shrinkage: stitch the four sides using 3 thread overlock. Measure.
Check for sewing shrinkage.
6. If it is a wash program, then send for washing.
Make sure to use fillers according to the capacity of the machine. For e.g. for a
5 kg load, if the fabric accounts for half a kg, the balance capacity should be
filled with fabric/ garments.
7. The recipe should be exact as required for bulk.
8. Finishing/ ironing shrinkage: Depending on the required Iron/ Press, the
swatch is to be steamed/ ironed and then shrinkage is measured.
a. For a non-wash program, the shrinkage will include cutting, sewing
and the ironing shrinkage.
b. For a wash program, the shrinkage will include cutting, sewing,
washing and ironing shrinkage.
• Depending on the buyer’s requirement, the sample size for shrinkage can be
10% or 100%.

6.4.5 Keeping the fabric in racks after Inspection:

1. When the inspection for a particular lot is completed and the received fabric is
“Passed”, the complete lot should be moved to racks width wise.
2. All material movement should be on cart trolley or V-trolley.
3. All the fabric in the racks should have an identification card (bin card) having
brand name, fabric code, fabric receive date, lot no, total meters and total rolls.
Make the GRN (Goods Receipt Note) for the passed goods (as per bin card)
(Annexure 15)
All fabric details like continuity cards, shade cards, lab dip reports, shrinkage
reports buyer wise should be maintained in the fabric quality department.
Shrinkage testing should be done as per the garment wash.

6.5. PACKING SLIP FORMAT

A packing slip received from supplier or maintained by stores/inspection on advance
receives of the bits of the dispatched fabric lot from supplier should follow the
specified format:

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 Roll No. Shade Length(Mts) Width(Cms.)

6.6. Inward fabric Quality checking

All the roll color swatches should be separately received so no need to cut fabric bits
from the incoming rolls.
If color swatches are not coming separately or no shade card or shade details on
supplier’s packing slip, then 10 cm wide bit will be cut from each roll.
Only 10% inspection is sufficient if 10% inspection fails then we can go for 20%
inspection and above.
Arrange all the roll swatches both Rigid & W/F per shade grouping and get a prior
approval on that from Product Development/Quality Assurance Team & send the
same grouped swatches to merchandiser for approval from buyer.
Give the shade details color wise/ lot wise to fabric In-Charge so that it can be
updated in the bin card.

6.7. Fabric Inspection

As we will be doing 10% of inspection. The back feeder should get the 10% roll
details for inspection Color wise/ Lot wise from the Fabric Stores ( fabric receive) In-
Charge ,who in turn will give random rolls no. (Based on random generating
software) as described above in issuing fabric for inspection process.
Rolls selected for inspection should be kept in “For Inspection” racks only in
Inspection area.
The back feeder with the help of operator should take the rolls from racks without
hitting any point of the rack to avoid any damage to fabric.
The back feeder will take roll to inspection table area.

The opened roll should be gently kept on the back feeding roll of inspection m/c by
the back feeder with help of operator.
The open end of the fabric roll should be pulled upwards & to be fed to the operator.
The operator has to measure the skew ness, fabric width (usable and full width) and
other fabric defects noticed during inspection and recorded in the inspection book

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(Annexure 16). The points will be awarded on the basis of 4-point system (Annexure
17).
The operator has to roll it partially on to the tube and stick cellophane tape at
three/four places of the roll so as to avoid folding.
The inspected roll should be gently kept in the “INSPECTED” rack by the operator
with the help of back feeder after wrapping with the plastic wrap and the wrapped roll
should be pasted with a sticker with the details of roll no., roll length, shade, color and
lot no.

6.8. Fabric Issue

Fabric stores would receive the initial cut plan (Annexure18) (specifying the no. of
cuts required to complete that order) from CAD department which clearly mentioned
the marker length and width of the fabric. This initial cut plan would be used to plan
the fabric issue.
Stores should receive the cutting plan one day prior to plan cut date.
Stores has to issue the fabric along with travelling work order (Annexure 19) & cut
no as mentioned in the table plan the fabric store will then issue 3% extra fabric over
the length required according to the marker length in the same width as mentioned in
the lay sheet.
Issuing racks in the ‘fabric issue’ area of the stores should be divided into table-wise.
The fabric for planned cut should be stored in the specified rack as per the table plan
width wise and shade wise with clear identification of- Brand, WO no, cut no. Meters
issued, width and shade.

6.9. Fabric Issue Procedure to Cutting

This activity is done manually with the help of maximum two to three persons.
As per the plan, all required rolls should be taken out from the concerned rack
associated for that particular table.

34
Preferably all the rolls in the same width should be taken out first and precaution is
taken while keeping on the trolley, as different shades should be kept separately.
Issuing fabric rolls when taken from racks should be kept on issuing trolleys and then
moved to cutting section.

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 7. Cutting

7.1Objective: - To ensure feeding of cut panels to sewing lines in correct quality &
quantity as per schedule.

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7.2 Process Flow
Process Module Cutting Room

37
7.3 Cutting Plan
Weekly Cutting Plan
On the basis of the monthly delivery tracker a cutting plan is made for an entire week,
which is reviewed on a weekly basis for the accomplishment of the plan and on first
day of every week a plan versus actual report is generated for the just concluded
week.
Daily Cutting Plan
On receiving the packing list and swatch from the stores the CAD department should
make a cut plan of the complete order based on the fabric details (width and shade )
from the stores, the cut plan (Annexure 20) should mention the marker length,
number of plies to be used in the along with the width of fabric.
*The packing list contains the information of cutable width of fabric along with the
meterage of the fabric available in that width.

From the weekly cutting plan a daily cutting plan is made by keeping WIP status as
mentioned in WIP report (Annexure 21) of the assembly lines in consideration.

7.4 Table Plan

The table plan will be generated for the individual spreader for a day on the basis of
the daily cutting plan. The table plan (Annexure 22) contains information of different
cuts for the styles planned on that day.
The Work order will be given to CAD, which will then divide the whole order
quantity into cuts required to clear the complete Work Order quantity and the markers
for the individual cut will be made according to the widths of fabric available as
mentioned in the packing list of the fabric provided by the fabric stores. These marker
length and width will be mentioned on the lay sheet one copy of this is given to the
cutting supervisor second copy will be kept in the CAD and the third copy of this lay
sheet will be given to fabric stores.

The cutting plan for the day will be made considering the cutting WIP status for the
sewing lines. The sewing line having the least WIP will be given the highest priority.
Thus the cuts as mentioned in the lay sheet by the CAD will be selected as per the
cutting plan for the day. The table plan for an individual table will be made and the
WO no & cut no will be written on it.

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* The cutting plan will be made one day prior to the actual cut date.

7.5 Information sources for cutting planning

7.5.1 Monthly Delivery Tracker

The planning department of the factory prepares the monthly delivery tracker
(Annexure 23); the tracker contains information about different styles that are going
to be manufactured in that specific month in the factory. The information is under
following headings

Buyer, Style, Color, Quantity, Delivery Date, PP Status, Trim Status, Fabric Status,
Planned Cut Date, etc.

7.5.2 Production Plan

The planning department of the factory prepares the production plan (Annexure 24);
this plan contains information about the line allocation to the styles to be
manufactured in that specific month in the factory.

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7.6. Pattern & Marker Checking Procedure

Whenever a style comes into bulk cutting the hard patterns for bulk production
duly signed and sealed by the pattern master has to be issued to the cutting by the
pattern master. On receiving the patterns these has to measured and the measurement
filled in pattern checking report (Annexure 25) and checked against the specification
sheet and if any discrepancy is found, the same has to be reported and informed to the
pattern master and necessary corrective actions must be taken.

Whenever a style is cut for the first time the marker generated should be checked
against the hard pattern for any possible errors in marker making or printing, one
complete garment patterns of the middle size should be checked. The hard patterns
will be placed on top of the marker at the respective position and the periphery will be
traced and if there is any discrepancy found has to be informed to the CAD as well as
cutting.
Stripe marker has to be paired face to face

* The Technical Manager must approve all the markers.

7.7. Marker Ordering

The table plan will be given to the CAD and the CAD will take the print out of the
marker on the basis of Work Order no. & cut no as mentioned in the table plan.

The cut that is planned first will have the highest priority and the subsequent cuts will
be lower in priority. All the markers must be ready on the same day on which the
table plan is given to the CAD.

7.8. Stores Requisition

The table plan thus generated in the previous step will be given to the fabric stores.
Based on the WO no & cut no as mentioned in the table plan the fabric store will then
issue 3% extra fabric over the length required according to the marker length in the
same width as mentioned in the lay sheet.

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The cut that is planned first will have the first priority and the subsequent cuts will be
lower in priority. All the fabric must be ready on the same day on which the table plan
is given to the fabric stores.

7.9. Mock-ups preparation

After the handover meeting of the style to the production floor, the style requirements
as discussed in the meeting should be converted into the visual standards (Annexure
26) and displayed at all relevant work stations as guide for the work.

7.10. Laying

Once the table plan is handed over to the laying batch they will lay the cuts mentioned
in their table plan in the order as per the table plan.

The laying batch must cross check the width and shade while laying and any
discrepancy found should be immediately reported to the laying and cutting
supervisor. The laying batch has to ensure the correctness of no of plies as mentioned
in the table plan. The laying batch also will fill the spreading sheets the quality
checker has to ensure that the spreading sheets (Annexure 27) are being filled
properly and completely. During laying the laying batch has to follow the work
instructions as mentioned in the work instruction sheet for normal table laying
(Annexure 28) or pin table laying (Annexure 29) as the case may be.

At the start of the lay the quality checker has to check for the face side of the fabric
and educate the layer about the same also he has to check for one way fabric and
pattern requirement in garment and instruct the layers accordingly. After the
completion of lay he must check it for quality and must document the same in the lay
checking report (Annexure 30).
Defect marking should be done at the laying stage using a contrast colour fabric
stripe.
All the drill marks has to be done before cutting panels.

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7.11. Cutting

Once the laying is complete and quality checker has checked its quality only then the
cutting has to commence. The cutter has to take the spreadsheet and write their name
and sign it in case of straight knife cutting and in case of a lay being cut on auto cutter
a separate log of the cuts being processed by the auto cutter has to maintained by the
auto cutter operator. During the process of cutting the cutter has to follow the work
instructions as mentioned in the work instruction sheet for straight knife cutting
(Annexure 31) or auto cutter cutting (Annexure 32) as the case may be.

In case of block cutting of components or interlining the cutting has to be done by

band knife. For band knife cutting the cutter has to follow work instructions as
mentioned in the work instruction sheet for band knife cutting (Annexure 33).
Pin table should be used for all check fabric cutting.
Ticketing (numbering) should be done on the same cutting table.
The cut panel having contrast colour stripe should be inspected
before ticketing for the defects.

7.11.1 Cutting Storage Procedure

All the cut components from one cut should be stored in one baker’s trolley. The
cutting helper has to ensure that no mixing of the parts takes place while placing the
cut components in the trolley.

The cutting helper has to pick up cut components from the cutting table in case of
straight knife cutting and from the auto-cutter bed in case of auto-cutter cutting and
place them in an empty baker’s trolley. The work instructions as mentioned the work
instruction sheet for cut component storage (Annexure 34).

7.12. Assorting procedure

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Numbering Plan
A continuous numbering plan (Annexure 35) is made for a Work Order in that Work
Order no two garments will be given the same number. From the lay sheets a
numbering plan is made say sizes were s1 s2 s3 s4 and no of plies were 100. Then s1
will be given number from 1-100, s2 will be given number from 101-200, s3 will be
given number from 201-300 and size s4 will be given number 301-400.

7.13. Bundling
Separate bundles are to be made for following parts
Front
Front bundle will have both left and right front, front placket and pocket.
Back
Back bundle will contain back panel and both top and bottom yoke.
Sleeve
Sleeve bundle will have the both sleeves, top sleeve placket and under sleeve placket.
Collar, cuff and neckband
This bundle will have both top and bottom panels of collar, cuff and neckband.
The bundle size to be used is 20-25.

7.13.1 Bundle Cards

Bundle cards are tied to every bundle and these contains following information
Bundle no
WO No
Style No
Cut No
Size
Qty
Serial No

The bundle cards are also color coded such that every size has their unique color of
bundle card for easy identification at all the times. These color codes are mentioned in
the bundle card color code sheet (Annexure 36).

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7.14. Fusing Procedures
Fusing has to be carried out as per the conditions specified by the interlining supplier,
every four hours one sample of the fused component has to sent for washing and peel
bond strength testing and also the testing of the temp, pressure and time has to be
carried out. In case of failure on any of these all the bundles fused in last 4 hours on
that machine has to be recalled and refused. During fusing the fusing operator has to
follow work instructions as mentioned in the work instructions sheet for fusing
(Annexure 37).

Fusing

Recall all bundles fused in last 4 hours

Wash testing, temperature testing,
pressure testing, time testing

Issue to sewing lines

7.14.1 Testing procedures for fusing

Testing procedure for various test mentioned above are as follows
Temperature
Using three thermo-paper strips take the temperature across the width of the press or
machine belt.
Check and record the temperature with the recommended speed and fusing time.
The press will need to be adjusted if variation of more than 5°C below or 10°C above
the recommended fusing temperature is recorded.
Time
Check time with a stopwatch for the actual period for which temperature and pressure
is applied on the fused composite.
Washing
Carry out durability wash test daily on the fused components per fabric per color.
Peel Bond Strength
Use three strips of fabric, each15x5cms, placed evenly across the belt, position the
interlining to cover the fabric with no overlap

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Set the recommended fusing conditions for bulk production and allow it to cool.
Conduct peel bond strength test
Ensure an even bond and acceptable peel bond strength before production.
Fusing – all Interlining fusing has to be ready finished(block cut)
a. Woven interlining – Sewing allowance to be ¼”.
b. Non fusible woven - ----do---------
All the interlining pattern has to be aligned with shell pattern 1/8" less all
around
For order size more than 2000 pcs for lining cutting die should be used.

7.15. Outsourcing Procedure

Incase of an outsourced process like embroidery, printing, etc. keep a style wise
record for pieces sent for the outsourced process and the pieces that are received from
the outsource process.
When the material comes back from the outsourced process into the cutting section
check it for the correct pattern or shape of the embroidery or printing. Also check for
the placement of the print/embroidery if it is found correct only then this has to be
loaded to the sewing lines, other wise sort the pieces that are correct and load only
correct pieces to the sewing lines for rest carry out re-cutting and send for embroidery
or printing again. The information of the incorrect pieces has to be sent to concerned
merchandiser as well as the organization that has done that process.

7.16. Cutting Issue Procedure

The planning department makes loading plan, it contains information about the style
no. and quantity to be loaded/ issued to the sewing line on a particular day. This plan
is given a day in advance to the actual loading date, once the loading plan is received
the individual batch leaders will then make arrangement for making ready the loading
for the sewing lines that they are responsible for.

Only the cutting that has been passed by the quality department can be moved into
sewing lines and for the cutting not passed by the quality department has to be
corrected for the defect found in the cutting before loading it to the sewing lines.
The sewing line supervisor must acknowledge the cutting for quantity by signing on
the bundle card at the designated place.

45
All the operators will have to follow the work instructions pertaining to the operation
that he/ she are carrying out.

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 8. Sewing Floor
8.1 Operations Hierarchy:

Flowchart 1:

V.P. Operations

Factory Manager

Floor Manager Floor Manager Floor Manager Floor Manager Floor Manager

Floor In charge

……

Line ………. …….. ……

Supervisor

Quality controller

Line feeder

Operators

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8.2 Process flow for Sewing

48
8.3 Objective:
Producing an optimum quality product, setting the process as a benchmark for the
whole garment manufacturing industry.

Floor operations are divided in to 3 parts

8.4 Pre sewing operations:

Pre sewing operation includes all the operations, which are required to be executed in
order to make the sewing operation flawless and make the work flow smooth.

8.4.1 Production planning

Production plan is crucial for the effective planning of resources in order to execute
production efficiently. Production planning includes the allocation of the job to use
the resources available to maximum extent.

To achieve the desired level of productivity, processes should be set as per the
following guidelines given by Industrial Engineering Department

• SMV break down for the style

• Operator allocation
• Machine allocation
• Tech layout (Attachments, folders, machines and other resources)

Any requisition for work aids and machines should reach Maintenance department
before 2 days. And arrangements should be made 1 day prior to the production.

To carry out Bulk production following information should be referred

• Style file (including PP meeting comments)
Style file and PP sample must reach the production floor at least before 2 days.
• Approved PP Sample received.

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Buyer approved PP sample should accompany the Style file. Every production line
must contain 1 approved sample hanging in front of line. Buyer comments sheet
should be hanged with the sample. It should contain the layout of the line to be set.
PP comment sheet, Description of critical points.

In any case production must not be started without the PP sample, style file and
production hand over meeting.

8.4.2 Cutting received (Line feeding)

• Cut panels must be received from the cutting department at least 1 day prior
to the production.
• Cut panels must be received only when all the cut parts are available.
• Random checking of bundles must be done to ensure the proper formation of
bundle and cut pieces.
• Lay plan and bundle number sheet must accompany the cutting.
• Feeding helper must keep the record of all the cutting received and recut parts
(Annexure 38).

8.4.3 Trims receiving and issuing procedures

Trims must be issued according to the work order and cut plan received by the
production. In order to prevent any miscommunication the trims should be issued
according to the cut plan.
• Trims should be issued 1 day prior to the production.
• Trims receiving and issuing records should be maintained.
• It must be ensured that all the trims are available before starting bulk
production.
• In case of, Short or absence of any trim should be resolved by the production
Manager and take the necessary action to resume the production.

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8.5 Sewing operations
Quality garments are made up through a sequence of operations, which themselves
have, specific and defined levels of quality. The following are individual areas, which
affect end quality and the systems that need to be put in place to control these areas.
These key areas will not only affect quality standards, but also will also impact on
delivery schedules and overall costs.

All the template used in production line should be duly signed by the technical
dept. + QC
Template:
a. Collar run stitch marking (Metal sheet)
b.Collar assemble templete template example(metal sheet)
c.Pocket marking
d.Button down marking
e.Pocket pressing

No marking should be used for button holes.

Button attach marking should be collar down.
Each line should have two checkers for parts and one for assembly.
Work instruction should be displayed at all work stations.
8.5.1 Machine Repair & Maintenance
Each factory must ensure that they keep proper machine repair records (Annexure
39).A full time team of mechanics must be employed and have a well-stocked and
organized workshop. Machine repair records must exist for each machine and the
summary record are kept in the workshop. The mechanic and head mechanic must
sign it each time that work is carried out.
It is also very important that when new operators start, they are in fact trained
properly on not only the basic workings of the machine’s but daily care procedures as
well. All machines must be cleaned at least twice a day, needle change and broken
needle procedures must be clearly understood. A daily routine must be set up for all
operators. Awareness through good training procedures is the key to ensuring that a
level of understanding exists. Operators need to react to such problems even if they do
not know how to fix them. At the end of the day, you can always deal with reaction.
No reaction on the other hand means that issues and problems will continue.

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8.5.2 Needle policy
The following procedures are particularly designed for Kids garment production but
can also be translated for other products such as knitted and embroidered fabrics and
components where needle are used in production.

Pins that must be used in the laying-up of fabric must be controlled. No other uses of
pins in cutting, assembly, inspection or any other operation where garments or
components are handled are allowed. Pins must, not secure reels of elastic, lace,
bindings etc. They must be eliminated and replaced by tape. Neither pins nor staples
must be used in any part of the factory for other uses such as securing documents,
tickets, pay packets or notice boards.
The procedure
• No operator shall be in possession of any needles other than those in the
machine being operated, or that required for the hand operation being
performed.
• In some cases it may be necessary for a worker undertaking handwork to have
more than one needle in their possession. In these cases it should be recorded
how many needles are issued to each worker, these must be accounted for at
the end of each shift.
• All spare needles shall be held by a supervisor in a secure, locked location.
• Only the supervisor shall issue needles to operators.
• Mechanics must not leave spare needles with a machine after servicing.
• If a needle needs replacing through wear the supervisor will issue a new
needle and retain the old one for safe disposal. Planned regular replacement is
recommended.
• Worn needles must be disposed of into sealed containers away from the
factory floor and at intervals securely disposed of to waste.
• If a needle breaks all parts must be looked for. Broken needle fragments must
be mounted with clear adhesive tape on a chart and signed by the line/floor
supervisor. Records (Annexure 40) must be kept of needle breakages by
machine type, needle size, operation etc. to establish trends. All record sheets
must be kept for a minimum of 18 months.

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When all parts are found a new needle can be issued.
8.5.3 Label policy
The following Label policy must be adhered to ensure that correctly labelled
-products are being manufactured. A system for rigid control and issuing of labels is
essential.

The procedure

1. On receipt of the contract, check label information ensure fabric composition,

care instructions and all necessary safety instructions are correct. This must
also includes legal responsibilities for character merchandise.

2. All deliveries of labels must be quarantined and checked against the contract
before being released to trim stores. This inspection should include random
checks for mixed labels within a single box. It is vital to ensure that this
responsibility is given to the trim store manager.

3. The quantity of labels issued to the production line must correspond with the
cutting room documents and be controlled by the trim stores supervisor.

4. Where labels are date coded, the oldest must be picked first.

5. Only the correct number of labels must be issued to the line. This must be no
more than the current bundle size.

6. Spare labels must not be kept by the operator. Any labels not required must be
collected and returned to the trim store.

7. Any additional label requirements must be authorised by the trim store

supervisor e.g. re-makes or repairs.

8. Label insertion must be an integral part of the product. If labels are required
after dyeing, they must be over-locked to the seam and not lock stitched.

9. Checking of sew-in labels must be included in end of line inspections.

10. At the final stage of garment inspection, prior to dispatch, all garment labels
must be checked against the UPC tickets and hanger/ box-end labels.

11. It is also necessary to check outer box labels against the actual contents prior
to sealing of box.

8.5.4 In Line Process Controls

The importance of first time quality is the key, in today’s changing business
environment. The ability to turn around quality goods in a short span of time is

53
essential. With the correct procedures and correct management attitude, this can be
achieved, very successfully.

Operation specifications (Annexure 41) play a key part in the successful

implementation of new styles, ensuring that we get quality levels right first time and
not after three or four days of sewing. Each operation that is set up must have a
specification on the machine, which includes details such as;
• Machine type.
• Needle and Stitch size.
• Seam width.
• Thread size and quality.
A detailed description of the operation either by a detailed drawing or by attaching a
mock ups (visual standard).
They must be signed by the operator, QC, supervisor to confirm that they fully
understand the requirements. This may seem like a lot of additional work but the
advantages gained from doing this are evident and immediate.
A complete understanding of the requirements and standardization across additional
machines doing the same operation. Immediate understanding by new operators who
have to step in the case of absenteeism. The same would also apply to in line Q.C.’s.
Immediate reference for all operations at each needlepoint.

8.5.5 Quality performance sheets

To achieve pre determined productivity levels the level of quality must firstly be
defined and achieved before any operator is issued a target.
To achieve the optimum quality level.
• A agreed and signed the Job Specification , each operator must be trained until
the supervisor/technician is satisfied with his/her out going quality.
• There must be a visible and dedicated inline QC for all machines in a line.
• Each operator must be checked 4 times a day using a simple, traffic light
system and inspecting no more than 10 pieces each time with fixed quantity.
• In-line QC and Line supervisor must sign reports daily.

54
 • The monthly summary must be kept at the machine at all times until the end of
the month. After the month is over they can be put into the operator’s
performance file.
• It is not up to the Inline QC to fix the problem but to find the problem. Fixing
the problem is the responsibility of the operator, supervisor and technician.
Not only does this act as a control tool but it also acts as a database recording
which operation the operator has been doing and which one they are best at.
Therefore in time it will build up a historic data of individual’s strong and
weak operations.
• It is important for management to see first time quality as an essential cost
factor. If operations are not set up properly, and work produced continues to
be bad then the additional costs through repairs, seconds, and loss in
productivity, short shipments and delays can be substantial.

8.5.6 Traffic Light Procedures

QC inspects 10 garments of an operator.
• No defects- mark card GREEN to go to next operator.
• ONE defect - mark card YELLOW, circle defect type# 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 or 8.
Inform and show operator fault. Move to next operator.
• TWO defects mark card RED, THREE defects mark card BLACK, circle
Defect type# 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 or 8.
• Inform and show SUPERVISOR of faults.
• SUPERVISOR must stay with operator until 20 consecutive (for RED), 30
consecutive (for BLACK) garments/parts/operation pass.
• SUPERVISOR initial (Signature) at the RED/BLACK to indicate 20/30
garments have passed consecutively.
• If an operator has consecutive inspection RED, FLOOR MANAGER must be
informed to re-train the operator or take necessary follow up actions. Please
indicate this by using BLACK.
• If a high defective rate is found on one particular operation in any one hour at
100% END LINE inspection, QC must inform LINE SUPERVISOR
immediately and not wait until the end of the day.

55
This system will work very well in reducing repair levels on hourly, daily basis if
used properly. Proper communicating among different inspection stages on defects
found and timely follow up actions is vital.

8.5.7 End line inspections

All end line inspections tables must be set up as follows.
• There must be an approved an approved PP sample that has been checked by
the merchandiser.
• Proper dedicated tables must be set up. It is unacceptable to have large tables
with many inspectors. This will only lead to people talking to each other and
losing focus on what they are supposed to be doing, or mixing up good and
bad garments. One table one inspector.
• Lighting must be a minimum of 100-foot candles.
• Along with the approval sample, all relevant paperwork must be at the
inspection table. This must include clear copies of PP sample comments, and a
list of Key points to be checked, during the inspection.
• Each inspector must have a predefined inspection method. If we determine the
method then through time the inspector will know what to inspect and in what
sequence. That will allow them to focus on the overall garment quality and not
think about what she has checked and what she hasn’t.
• The inside as well as the outside of the garments must be thoroughly checked.
The method of inspection must be defined at the PP meeting
• If there are excessive threads then these must be marked as repairs to ensure
that the problem is in fact rectified.
• Proper bins must set up to ensure that we are segregating good garments and
bad garments (i.e. Sewing, stains and shading etc,).
• Hourly records must be kept, using the END LINE DAILY INSPECTION
REPORT (Annexure 42). A repair in and out control is also included in the
report, which will enable the supervisor to ensure that repairs are being
repaired and returned, straight away.

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 • It is important for management to ensure that all reports are examined hourly
to ensure that the necessary corrective action has taken place.
• Measurement methods must be established to ensure that all inspectors are in
fact using the same method.
• Measurement sheets must be filed properly and must measure at least three
pieces of every size in full, every day across all colors, per auditor.
• The only way to measure a garment is in fact with a tape measure. Under no
circumstance must templates be used nor there be any marks on the table.
Inspectors will only pull or push garments to meet specs in this case.

8.6. Post Sewing Operations

8.6.1 Washing
• A daily in / out record between factory and laundry should be maintained to
monitor a smooth production flow.
• All garments should be segregated by shade lot with proper identification on
each garment before sending to laundry for washing.
• All garments should be washed by shade lot in the same washing load for
shade consistency.
• A washing control technician from factory should be sent to laundry to check
the garments from each washing loads to ensure color shade, washing effect,
hand feel and measurements are within customers’ acceptable level. Anything
rejected must be recorded and followed up for correction / improvement
before the next wash
• Garments returned from laundry must be firstly checked against approved
shade band, washing effects and hand feel before accepting for 100% final
inspection. Anything off approved standard must be rejected and returned to
laundry for re-wash immediately with record.
• Daily inspection results from the washing control technician, control point on
accepting garments returned from laundry and final inspection must be
reviewed together. Any issue like garments shade varies within a washing
load, washing defects, broken stitches, over washed, trims over abraded, bad
smell, etc. that needs improvement must be communicated to parties
concerned for immediate improvement.

57
8.6.2 Ironing Procedures:
Irons, boilers and presses need as much attention to them as sewing machines and
again there must be planned maintenance programs in place as well as daily cleaning
routines.
• Boilers and steam lines must be regularly checked and cleaned. Stains can
arise from areas like this, if they are not cleaned regularly. Pressing covers
must also be regularly changed as spoilage or damp spots can cause staining.
• Teflon shoes must be used on delicate fabrics and sensitive colors.
• It is also a good idea to put tension cords on irons to help eliminate over
pressing on garments.
• Needle boards are recommended to be used on velvets and corduroys.
• On Cut and sew it is important that full measurement specs are available to
spot check measurements. It is also a good idea that key areas are marked up
on the pressing tables to ensure that we are controlling sizing issues and
sensitive shape issues.
• Materials that contain Lycra need much more care during the pressing process.
Over pressing can cause sizing and fit problems especially in the hip area.
With care and the establishment of proper pressing methods, issues such as
this can be prevented.
• Vacuums on the pressing tables must be used only after the garment has been
pressed. It is there to dry the garments off before packing. Running vacuums
in conjunction with pressing will results in seam impression, glazing and shiny
marks and possible color change.
Established pressing standards, must be clearly displayed for all to see and be
available to all as a point of reference.

8.6.3 Final inspection

• Final inspection should be done after all sewing and finishing operations are
complete, but prior to bagging or packaging. It is important that all sewing
defects found are logged and traceable back to the operator who performed the
operation. This is an important QC function that requires organization and
good management.

58
• This is normally possible since at this stage of the process, piece rate or bundle
tickets should still be attached to the budles. The following are recommended
actions for an effective final inspection programme:
• Sewing operators should make their own repairs and outside repair station
does not provide incentive for the operator to do it correctly the next time, or
to immediately repair her / his mistakes as they occur
• The inside of the garment should be 100% inspected. It may be preferable to
perform this inspection prior to pressing.
• Critical measurements should be spot checked frequently by each inspector.
This greatly increases the chance of catching a sizing problem that may have
been missed by the in process inspection.
• Any non-inspection function, including excessive thread trimming, tagging
and folding, should be separated from final inspection.
• Cross train and rotate inspectors whenever possible to help maintain focus and
improve overall inspection. A tired and bored inspector is not a good
inspector.
• Provide good quality floor mats to stand on and stools for occasional leaning /
sitting to avoid fatigue.
• Provide well-lit work areas with the necessary room for good, thorough
inspections. Final inspection areas need to meet the JCP recommendations for
proper QC work stations.
• Keep inspection areas clean, organized and remove inspected and defective
garments frequently.
• Evaluate performance, provide necessary training and encourage improved
inspections.
• For the purpose of operator (and inspector) performance evaluation and
corrective action, detailed records by defects and by operator, should be kept.
These results should be combined with the in process audit results to
determine the true performance of each operator, over an appropriate period of
time. Detailed record keeping in your Final (100%) Inspection area will
indicate specific trends with certain operations, products and operators. This
important information allows you to take necessary prevention action steps for
future production.

59
8.6.4 Packing
• Packing standard & instruction should be available within packing section.
Garments must be packed into poly-bag & cartons according to size / color
ratio as per the packing instruction.
• Packing mock ups should be there in packing department so as to be used as
reference.
• Packing list should be available with the buyer approved packing procedure.
8.6.5 Pre-final quality audits
There has to be a separate Factory QA team, who conducts in-process audits & final
audits on finished goods daily. They must report daily to the factory manager on the
results of these inspections.
When the products are continuously produced in high volume or require detailed
packaging, the final auditing can be done before packaging. If the sample audit fails,
the merchandise can be re-inspected more efficiently, without destroying packaging
material and wasting labour. If this approach is taken, regular daily audits should be
made on packaged stock, to prevent packaging problems. These units inspected for
packaging need not be opened and inspected for workmanship, if all were part of
passed Final Quality Audit (Annexure 43).

8.6.6 Order Closing Report (OCR)

After shipment of goods, the OCR should be made within a day which includes the
order quantity, cut quantity, shipped quantity, balance break-up (seconds break-up) so
that the party responsible for the production loss can be debited.(Annexure 44)

60
 9. Quality Assurance

9.1 QUALITY POLICY

MADURA GARMENTS EXPORTS LTD. is committed to comply with

requirements and continuosly improve the Quality management system
and supply high quality garments on time to enhance customer
satisfaction through training and involvement of employees.

9.2 QUALITY OBJECTIVES

1. To increase the Production from the existing level every year.

2. Continuous improvement
a) Productivity
b) Waste elimination
c) House keeping

3. To make employees multiskilled through training and development.

4. To maintain and improve Workorder throughput time

5. To reduce seconds percentage

61
 9.3 Quality checkpoints
Fabric& Trims status
Sampling Plan

NOT OK
Check trims& fabric as
per sampling
RTS OK

Quality passed trims and

Issue to Cutting fabric
Visual inspection passed fabric
according to sampling plan
Laying
NOT OK Visually identify the problems
and check for the following
OK points in the laying process
Style descriptions,
Fabric code, W.O. no,
Design approval, Fabric
one way or two way?

Quality check at the beginning

of the lay

Cad checking against master

copy, marker length & width,
proper scrambled sizes, all parts
in marker, Line balancing?
Re-do
Check for the first ply.

Shade, width-wise lay,

Waviness, Bowing?
NOT OK
Re-do OK

Marker placement, Line

balancing, No. of plies?
NOT OK
Re-do Quality check in between lay

OK
Is W.O .no, size, central line, notches,
straight line, repeat width, Line
balancing, pairing, shade ok

After laying
Check Check
for W,O forW.O
no,weaving defect,Style
no,bubbling,Fus
Is W.O.no,Centre
verification,Centre
Is Issue
W.O.no,size,parts
edof Quality 62
line,Repeat,Balancing,St
notch,Fabric
bundleno,numbering,lay
thread,Stain,lini
passed cutokay?
parts to
line,one way
Quality
Damage,pairing,shape,St
nosewing
okay?
ng
Re
Re-Do
Re-Do
-Do
Re-Do check
 Is W.O .no, size, central line, notches,
NOT OK
straight line, repeat width, Line balancing,
pairing, shade ok
Re-do

NOT OK Check the following points at the start and

end of cutting process.
Is W.O .no, size, parts,
Re-do bundle no, numbering, lay no
okay?
NOT OK
cut parts; check the
OK following points
during bundling.
Is W.O. no., Centerline, Repeat,
Re-do Balancing, St line, one way okay?

NOT OK

Quality Check in relay

OK (if check/stripes)

Check for W.O. no., weaving

defect, Style verification, Center
notch, Fabric damage, pairing,
Re-do shape, St line

NOT OK Parts inspection check

Quality check during fusing

OK

Check for W.O no,

bubbling, Fused Quality check during fusing
thread, Stain, lining
Re-do

NOT OK OK

Issue of Quality passed cut

parts to sewing
Quality approved cut
parts

63
 Display of reference shirt with comments & receive
information for checking

Re-Work NOT OK
Check point 1
In- line inspection by
Collar inspection Traffic light System
Collar visual
OK Standard, measurement collar
Re-Work NOT OK
Check point 2
front
pairing Left and right front parts.
Visual standard, measurement
Re-Work NOT OK OK

Check point3
trimming
& inspection Assembled shirt,
Measurement,
Re-Work NOT OK OK visual Standard.

End Line AQL Audit

at AQL 2.5

OK

Release to
finishing

Seconds & alterations

NOT OK Checkpoint 4
Final Inspection Identify first quality
seconds and rejects

NOT OK
Trolley wise
AQL audit (2.5)

OK

Folding &
Packing
Folding &
Packing

64
 R OK
E
J AQL NOT OK
C Pre Final Audit/
T Finished Stock Audit
S (10%, 25% and 50%)
Offer for
final
inspection OK

ACCEPT
Release to Warehouse

65
9.4 Quality Procedures
9.4.1 Fabric Inspection Report
No sooner Fabric is in house, The Fabric inspection report, Shrinkage report & 100%
Shade bands should be submitted within 48 hours. Fabric is to be cut only after the
above reports are submitted & only if they are approved for bulk production. Initially
10% of the Fabric is to be inspected on a 4 point system & if the fabric is in doubt,
further 10% should be Inspected. While submitting the Fabric Inspection reports, all
trim inspection reports should be submitted too. If Fabric is cut without been
Inspected, Total responsibility will be on this department as it is a violation of a
critical aspect. The below reports should be submitted to Buyers & the relevant
Merchandiser.

Fabric Inspection. ( Inspection on 4 point system ).

Purpose: To decide acceptance or rejections of fabric roll ( For Wovens )

Activity Requirement

1. Take the roll. Roll to be chosen at random

2. Check the roll as per 4 points system.

3. Give penalty points for defects.

Points / 100 sq. yd. =
4. Calculate index for each individual roll. Total points in roll * 36 * 100
Total length in yards * width in
5. Calculate final average index for the inches.
total no. of rolls inspected.

6. Decide acceptance or rejectance of the

fabric

Record: Fabric inspection report

Classification PENALTYPOINTS

66
 1 point 2 points 3 points 4 points
Faults showing in the Less than Over 3 inch Over 6 inch Over 9 inch.
warp direction of fabric. 3inch. but less than but less than
( Holes and tears excepted 6 inch. 9 inch.
).
Faults showing in the weft Less than Over 3 inch Over 6 inch Over 9 inch.
direction of fabric. 3inch. but less than but less than
(Weave stripes, weft 6 inch. 9 inch.
irregularities, holes and
tears are excepted).

i). Length of the faults is to be measured in the warp or weft direction and the
direction in which the fault is longest is the fault direction. However when the warp
and weft length are same and when the penalty of the shorter direction is heavier, take
the fault of the direction in which the penalty is heavier.

ii). When the fault in the warp direction is over 1yd, the part which is over 1yd is
deemed as fault of the same kind of others.

iii). When two or more faults overlap, apply only the faults which penalty is the
heaviest.

iv). When there are two or more faults within the length of 1yd and the penalty points
come over 4 points, the points over 4 points are not added.

v). The inspector needs to be at a distance of 3 feet away from the inspection table and
the linear speed of inspection not to be less than 0.1mtrs per second.

Minimum fault sizes are shown on the Sears Fabric defect scale :-

Knots
A – do not count
B- Count as 1 point
C- Count as 1 point
D- Count as 1 point
E- Count as 3 points
Slubs
A - do not count
B - do not count
C- Count as 1 point
D- Count as 1 point
E- Count as 1 point
F- Count as 3 points

67
 G- Count as 3 points
Standards for Passing Fabric:-
Average index for inspected rolls not to exceed » 28 points / 100yd².
Maximum index for any roll not to exceed » 40 points / 100yd².

9.4.2 100% Shade Bands.

If the style is a wash garment, Before & after wash Blankets should be submitted ( 3
sets each ) covering all rolls and it has to attached in the shade continuity card
(Annexure 12)
A 100% shade band covering all rolls & all colors pertaining to a certain style /
Consignment should be made & approved prior to cutting of bulk Fabric.
Process.
• No sooner the Fabric is in house, The Q/A department must ensure they get
the panels representing all rolls within 6 hours from Stores.
• Cut 6” from end of each roll. Over lock & join all panels in correct grain line
direction to be in a Blanket form.
• If the Style is a non-wash program, Two sets should be prepared.
• If the Style consists of a certain wash, Then 4 Blankets should be prepared. 02
Blankets non-washed & 2 Blankets with the exact approved wash of the style.
• Once the Shade bands are ready, Dye lot or color segregation has to be done.
If the Shade Band consists of 2-3 different shades, Such shades should be
segregated in to families marked A,B,C Etc. A copy of the Segregation of
shades should be handed over to the Stores, Cutting, Merchandising &
Production departments.
• Stores will issue & the cutting / Production will proceed as per the segregated
shades without getting mixed.

68
9.4.3 Shrinkage report
A 10% Shrinkage report should be submitted for all styles and the washing shrinkage
has to be performed as per the wash type required for the bulk.

9.4.4 Trim Inspection report

All trims been In house should be inspected ( 10% ) & the reports submitted
accordingly.

Trims Inspection
Purpose: To check defects and to decide Acceptance / Rejectance of trims.

Scope: Interlining, Collar bone, Label, Button, Packing Materials, Swing Ticket, Poly
bag, Product box.

Activity Requirement
A. Interlining

1. ½ meters of lining to be sent to lab. EPI / PPI and GSM

a. Bond strength
1.Take 10” * 4” of fabric strip and lining strip. Note the temperature, pressure and
2.Cut rectangular slit 6”*1” in Tissue paper of speed.
8 ‘ * 4”.
3.Sandwich Tissue paper between interlining
and fabric then fuse.
4.Check Pull strength.
Pull strength to be atleast 1 kg /
If by varying fusing conditions sufficient sq.cm.
strength is not achieved the lot is rejected.

b. Shrinkage Test.
1. Send two collar to lab every day for
shrinkage test.

c. Visual Inspection
1. Select the roll as per sampling plan. Check for uniformity, micro dots,
uniformity of shade.
Reject the lot is not ok.

Record : Interlining Inspection report.

69
 Activity Requirement
B. Labels

a. Visual Examination
1.Check lettering , color, edges as per the No weaving defects.
Master and Specifications. Shade continuity.
Smooth and straight edges.
Centered labels.

b. Color fastness test

1. Take few labels get it stitched on the
white fabric.
2. Wash with soap and wash petrol. No color bleeding.

If color bleeds rejects the lots.

Note: Selection Of all trims for the inspection to be as per sampling plan.

Activity Requirement
C. Buttons
1. Check buttons for shade, chip around Uniform in shade, gauge.
the edge. No chip.
2. Get stitched 10 buttons breaks NO breakage
stitched in machine.
3. If any one button breaks, then check No breakage.
for 10 more buttons.

If there is breakage reject the lot.

D. Packing Material

1. Check edges, slots and slot spacing. Even edges for all the trims.
Slots and Slot spacing as per the
specifications.

70
 Activity Requirement

E. Swing ticket
1. Inspect visually the lettering. No stains and misprints.

F. Product Box

1.Check for lettering, hinge, marks and No misprints and spread hues
color.

G. Polycovers
No misprinting and spread hues. Shade
1. Check for lettering, uniformity and continuity to be maintained.
scratches.

H. Collarbones No cut edges, point to be as per

specification.
1.Check for edges and points. Should fix firmly to the fabric.

2.Stick few collarbones on fabric to

check for glue.

If gum is insufficient, reject the lot.

Record: Trims inspection report.

9.5 Size set

Bulk production cannot be started without the QA Department approving the Size set
for each new style. Once the size set is approved, The Pattern should be checked &
authorized by this department for utilization.

9.6 PP Meeting
A PP meeting should be organized & conducted prior to bulk production including
Buyer’s Representative, Merchandiser, Production Manager & all sectional heads,
Supervisors & Q/C’s involved with the particular style. No Production is to start
without a PP Meeting & all points to be discussed & documented in the PP meeting
format (Annexure 45). The QA Manager or the Technical Manager should write

71
down the minutes & file the PP meeting comments in the style file “ Technical,
Quality, Packing, Washing, Shipping ETC”.

9.7 Pilot Run

Once the Production submits the Pilot run, Bulk production should be approved based
on the performance of this cut. If it is not satisfactory, a new pilot run should be made.
9.8 Test to failure
9.8.1 Purpose
Testing mock up pieces (36) to demonstrate consistency in fabric, threads,
machinery. The test pieces are pulled with a force until they are destroyed
establishing the kilograms at which they are break apart.
Results details- are recorded as = Z factor.
Where there is a consistent result the Z factor will be 4 or above – Pass.
Where there is inconsistency the Z factor will be less than 4 – Fail.
9.8.2 Importance
These tests and the documentation are our evidence of the control to ensure the
product we make is safe. It also allows us to identify if there is any inconsistency
which we need address to improve the product safety.The TTF results are required to
accompany the master style file and should be discused at the time of hand over
meeting.
9.9 Pull Tests
9.9.1 Purpose
To ensure the application is button, stud, snap can withstand a set kilogram of pulling.
The recommendations are specified by our customer at 7 kg per single pull but as a
safe guard MGEL recommend our procedure is pulled at 8 kg.
9.9.2 Importance
To ensure the application can withstand the desired amount of strain in normal
wearing conditions. 5 Pcs randomly must be monitored closely due to product safety.
9.10 Durability Wash
9.10.1 Purpose
This wash test is carried out in the laboratory to ensure the garments construction is
robust (strong). The laboratory test highlights any change to the following areas:
Seam breakdown, fused components, change to colour appearnace, optical brightner
and fabric handle, effects on accessories, colour fastness, pleat sharpness and any

72
wadding. The wash is carried out at 10 degrees higher than the recommended label
wash tempreture. The laboratory also need a garment reference- for the pre-wash
inspection and then the after wash inspection. 3 garments minimum requirement.
9.10.2 Importance
To ensure all our methods, fabric and trim accessories are suitable to the style and will
perform over numerous times of wear. To prevent customer returns and customer
dissatisfaction.
9.11 Quality procedures in cutting department.

• Rolls segregated & laid as per shade band separation.

• Relaxation of Fabric for Stretch & Knit at least for 12 Hours and fabric
relaxation report maintained (Annexure 47)
• Fabric Width.
• Checking of Marker lay out.
• Control of Layers as per Fabric construction.
• Checking of Panels against pattern board after cutting.
• Random check of panels for Fabric flaws.
• Fusing parameters like temperature, pressure and time are controlled at fusing
machines periodically and recorded in fusing quality report (Annexure 48) to
ensure optimum bond strength.

73
9.12 Quality Control
Quality control on the product, Packing & stacking should be maintained at the
highest level.
A full functional traffic light system (Annexure 46) should be maintained at all times.
Statistical process controlling ( SPC ) should be implemented for every line to
minimize rejections. No Garment should be passed with inferior quality &
rectification to be made with immediate effect & documented.

9.13 Traffic Light System.

This System is a very affective approach in curtailing & discontinuing defected panels
& garments with discrepancies from moving in the Line. There are three colors to
identify the progress of the operator & the quality.
Green, Amber & Red bag with the Instructions of Operation descriptions to be
audited.

* Green – If this color is flagged by the Line Q/C on top of a machine, It

indicates that the Operation is under control & of good standing & could proceed to
the next operation or machine.
* Amber - If this color is flagged, It high lights that the Operation produced
by the Operator is in a tolerance margin & needs close observation from Superiors.
* Red – If the Line Q/C has flagged this color on top of a machine, You
should halt the machine & the operation immediately & rectify same without any
delay & ensure the productivity is not affected. In the same time the Line Q/C must
record Instruction paper what is in color bag & her operation file to follow up & same
Q/C will issue a Pink token to the Supervisor to rectify same & to follow up in three
consecutive instance’s in the same Operation ( To Ensure 0 defects are maintained in
a particular Operation) & cross check with the Q/A.

•The roaming Q/C must continue for each & every machine Incorporating the same
process in the Line ( Not more than 32 machines per line ), Minimum four times a
day.
•Each Line Q/A dept should have two “In process Audit stations” for 100%
components check with the defect statistics (In line Inspection report Annexure 42)

74
maintained which could be analyzed hourly on each Operation to rectify prior to a
Assembling Garments.
•Each end Line should have a QA Audit station performing 100% Inspection of
Garments prior to moving to the next Process & the Defects to be maintained in the “
Defect Analysis Report”(Annexure 43).
No inline & end line checkers should have trimmers.

9.14 AQL Audit.

Apart from the 100% Inspection at End Line, The Q/A Dept should Audit the
Merchandise randomly to ensure the Quality standard set by “MGEL”. Each Auditor
should cover 5 Production lines & every hour as per the given AQL (Appendix 43). If
the Standard is acceptable as per the below stipulated table, The Goods can be
processed for the next Operation. However if the Merchandise is not up to the
required Criteria, Total Qty should be returned back to the Production Line for
immediate rectification & the same Auditor should closely Monitor until the
rectification is complete. You have to strictly adhere to maintain an AQL level of 1.5
during Inline Inspections.

9.15 Random Measurement Audit.

The QA dept should inspect measurements of Garments randomly covering all styles,
Color & Sizes to ensure the Merchandise is meeting the required Specification before
& After wash. (Annexure 4)

9.16 Pre Final Audit

Prior to handing over merchandise for final Audit to Buyers, the Q/C department
should do an interim Inspection & submit copies of the reports to the G/M Production
& marketing, Production Manager & the relevant Merchandiser for each P/O. This is
Mandatory. A count & accuracy report should be submitted as well.

9.17 Outgoing Quality Level

All the external audit reports should be compiled into one final report with the defect
penalty points will expressed as percentage of total defectives found over the total
quantity shipped out for that month. Also a report of total external audits failed over
total external audits faced in that month should also be prepared.(Annexure 50)

75
9.18 Reports
All inspection in Production & finishing should be daily documented by using Inline
reports & a copy of these reports should be submitted to the relevant Merchandiser at
least twice a week without fail.

9.19 Samples
The QA Department should submit the following samples, T.O.P – Within 3 days of
bulk input as per buyers required size & Shipment samples as per buyers requirement,
one day before final audit. This should be strictly adhered to.
i) It is mandatory that all Line Quality Supervisors & controllers should patrol their
respective lines on a daily basis
prior to starting bulk production in the morning to ensure that the Line is geared to
Produce high quality Apparels.

* The following aspects should be taken in to awareness,

a) Cleanliness of the Floor – No Garments, Dust, Stickers, Stains etc to be on
floor.

b) Cleanliness of Machines –
1) Well cleaned without any dust.
2) Oil level & Stains on M/C to be checked.
3) Needles to be checked & should be fluff free & not blunt.
4) Any M/C with “Red” flags on & if, Mechanic to be questioned.

c) Check for Reject Garments – No Reject garment is to be brought forward from

the previous day without been rectified. All Reject Garments should be rectified on
the same day & not kept separately inside the line.

76
List of Annexure

SL NO DOCUMENT CODE DESCRIPTION

ANNEXURE 1 MGEL-SP01 SAMPLING INDENT
ANNEXURE 2 MGEL-RD01 PILOT LOADING PLAN
ANNEXURE 3 MGEL-RD02 PILOT CUTTING LOG BOOK
ANNEXURE 4 MGEL-RD03 PILOT MEASUREMENT REVIEW SHEET
ANNEXURE 5 MGEL-RD04 PILOT COMMENT SHEET
ANNEXURE 6 MGEL-RD05 AMMENDMENT SHEET
ANNEXURE 7 MGEL-IE01 OPERATION BULLETIN
ANNEXURE 8 MGEL-IE02 LINE LAYOUT
ANNEXURE 9 MGEL-IE03 TECHNICAL LAYOUT
ANNEXURE 10 MGEL-RD06 TECHNICAL STYLE DETAIL SHEET
ANNEXURE 11 MGEL-RD07 RISK ANALYSIS FORMAT
ANNEXURE 12 MGEL-ST01 SHADE CARDS
ANNEXURE 13 MGEL-ST02 DESIGN APPROVAL CARD
ANNEXURE 14 MGEL-QA01 FABRIC SHRINKAGE EVALUATION SHEET
ANNEXURE 15 MGEL-ST03 BIN CARD
ANNEXURE 16 MGEL-QA02 FABRIC INSPECTION BOOK
ANNEXURE 17 MGEL-QA03 4-POINT SYSTEM FOR FABRIC INSPECTION
ANNEXURE 18 MGEL-CT01 CUT PLAN
ANNEXURE 19 MGEL-ST04 TRAVELLING WORK ORDER
ANNEXURE 20 MGEL-CT02 MONTHLY PLAN
ANNEXURE 21 MGEL-CT03 WIP REPORT
ANNEXURE 22 MGEL-CT04 TABLE PLAN
ANNEXURE 23 MGEL-PL01 MONTHLY DELIEVRY TRACKER
ANNEXURE 24 MGEL-PL02 PRODUCTION PLAN SHEET
ANNEXURE 25 MGEL-QA04 PATTERN CHECKING REPORT
ANNEXURE 26 MGEL-QA05 CUTTING VISUAL STANDARDS
ANNEXURE 27 MGEL-CT05 LAY SPREADING SHEET
ANNEXURE 28 MGEL-CT06 NORMAL TABLE LAYING INSTRUCTION SHEET
ANNEXURE 29 MGEL-CT07 PIN TABLE LAYING INSTRUCTION SHEET
ANNEXURE 30 MGEL-QA06 LAY CHECKING REPORT
ANNEXURE 31 MGEL-CT08 WORK INSTRUCTION FOR STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING
ANNEXURE 32 MGEL-CT09 WORK INSTRUCTION FOR AUTO CUTTING
ANNEXURE 33 MGEL-CT10 WORK INSTRUCTION FOR BAND KNIFE CUTTING
ANNEXURE 34 MGEL-CT11 WORK INSTRUCTION FOR CUT COMPONENET STORAGE
ANNEXURE 35 MGEL-CT12 NUMBERING PLAN
ANNEXURE 36 MGEL-CT13 BUNDLE COLOR CODE SHEET
ANNEXURE 37 MGEL-CT14 FUSING WORK INSTRUCTION SHEET
ANNEXURE 38 MGEL-SW01 CUT PART RECIEPT SHEET
ANNEXURE 39 MGEL-SW02 MAINTAINANCE CARD
ANNEXURE 40 MGEL-SW03 NEEDLE POLICY FORMAT
ANNEXURE 41 MGEL-SW04 OPERATION SPECIFICATION
ANNEXURE 42 MGEL-SW05 ENDLINE ALTERATION REPORT
ANNEXURE 43 MGEL-SW06 PRE FINAL AUDIT REPORT
ANNEXURE 44 MGEL-SW07 ORDER CLOSING RECORD
ANNEXURE 45 MGEL-QA07 PP MEETING FORMAT
ANNEXURE 46 MGEL-QA08 TRAFFIC LIGHT SYSTEM
ANNEXURE 47 MGEL-QA09 FABRIC RELAXATION SHEET
ANNEXURE 48 MGEL-QA10 FUSING QUALITY REPORT
ANNEXURE 49 MGEL-QA11 DEFECT ANALYSIS REPORT
ANNEXURE 50 MGEL-QA12 SAMPLING PLAN AQL

77
ANNEXURE 51 MGEL-QA13 OUTGOING QUALITY LEVEL

78