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Competency Based Learning Materials

Sector: ELECTRICAL & ELECTRONICS SECTOR

Qualification Title:
ELECTRICAL AND INSTALLATION MAINTENANCE NC II
Unit of Competency:
Install Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall Mounted Outlets, Lighting
Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets
Module Title:
Installing Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall Mounted Outlets,
Lighting Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets
UNIVERSITY OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY
COLLEGE OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY EDUCATION

Cagayan de Oro Campus, Lapasan, CDO City


ELECTRICAL AND INSTALLATION
MAINTENANCE NC II
HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING
MATERIALS
Welcome to the module in “Installing Wiring Devices of Floor and
Wall Mounted Outlets, Lighting Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary
Outlets”. This module contains training materials and activities for you to
complete.
The unit of competency “Install Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall
Mounted Outlets, Lighting Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets”
contains knowledge, skills and attitudes required for Electrical and
Installation MaintenanceNC II.
You are required to go through a series of learning activities in order to
complete each learning outcome of the module. In each learning outcome
there are Information Sheets, Self-Checks, Task Sheet and Job Sheets.
Follow these activities on your own. If you have questions, don’t hesitate to
ask your facilitator for assistance.
Recognition of Prior Learning (RPL)

You may already have some or most of the knowledge and skills covered
in this learner’s guide because you have:
□ been working for some time
□ already completed training in this area.
If you can demonstrate to your trainer that you are competent in a
particular skill or skills, talk him/her about having them formally recognized
so you don’t have to do the same training again. If you have a qualification
certificate or Certificate of Competency from previous trainings, show it to
your trainer. If the skills you are acquired are still current and relevant to the
unit/s of competency they may become part of the evidence you can present
for RPL. If you are not sure about the currency of your skills discuss this with
your trainer.
This module was prepared to help you achieve the required competency,
in Electrical Installation and Maintenance NC II. This will be the source
of information for to acquire knowledge and skills in this particular trade
independently and at your own pace, with minimum supervision or help from
your instructor.
Remember to:

□ Talk to your trainer and agree on how you will both organize the Training of
this unit. Read through the modules carefully. It is divided into sections,
which cover all kind the skills and knowledge you need to successfully
complete this module

Electrical Installation and Date Developed: CBLM 1


Maintenance NCII September 2017 Issued by:
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Install Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall
Mounted Outlets, Lighting
Developed by: USTP-CSTE 115
Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets Victor S. Rosales
Maniya B. Arong Revision # 02
□ Work through all information and complete the activities in each section.
Read information sheets and complete the self-check. Suggested references
are included to supplement the materials provided in this module.

□ Most probably your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager. He/she
is there to support you and show you the correct way to do things.

□ Your trainer will tell you about the important things you need to consider
when you are completing activities and it is important that you will listen and
take notes.

□ You will be given plenty of opportunities to ask questions and practice on


the job. Make sure you practice your new skills during regular work shifts.
This way you will improved both your speed and memory and also your
confidence.

□ Talk to more experience workmates and ask for their guidance.

□ Used the self-check questions at the end of each section to test your own
progress.

□ When you are ready, ask your trainer to watch you perform the activities
outlined in this module.

□ As you work through the activities, ask for written feedback on your
progress. Your trainer keeps feedback/ pre-assessment reports for this
reason. When you have successfully completed each element, ask your trainer
to mark on the reports that you are ready for assessment.

□ When you have completed this module (or several modules), and feel
confident that you have had sufficient practice, your trainer will arrange an
appointment with registered assessor to assess you. The results of your
assessment will be recorded in your Competency Achievement Record.

Electrical Installation and Date Developed: CBLM 1


Maintenance NCII September 2017 Issued by:
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Install Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall
Mounted Outlets, Lighting
Developed by: USTP-CSTE 115
Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets Victor S. Rosales
Maniya B. Arong Revision # 02
Electrical and Installation MaintenanceNC II

List of Competencies

No. Unit of Competency Module Title Code


Perform roughing-in Performing roughing-in
activities, wiring and activities, wiring and
cabling works for single- cabling works for single-
1. ELC741301
phase distribution, phase distribution, power,
power, lighting and lighting and auxiliary
auxiliary systems systems
Install electrical Installing electrical
protective devices for protective devices for
distribution, power, distribution, power, ELC741302
2. lighting, auxiliary, lighting, auxiliary,
lightning protection and lightning protection and
grounding systems grounding systems

Install wiring devices Installing wiring devices


of floor and wall of floor and wall ELC741303
mounted outlets, mounted outlets,
3.
lighting fixtures/ lighting fixtures/
switches, and switches, and auxiliary
auxiliary outlets outlets

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Maintenance NCII September 2017 Issued by:
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Install Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall
Mounted Outlets, Lighting
Developed by: USTP-CSTE 115
Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets Victor S. Rosales
Maniya B. Arong Revision # 02
MODULE CONTENT

UNIT OF COMPETENCY: Install Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall Mounted


Outlets, Lighting Fixtures/Switches, and
Auxiliary Outlets

MODULE TITLE : Installing Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall


Mounted Outlets, Lighting Fixtures/Switches,
and Auxiliary Outlets

MODULE DESCRIPTOR:
This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes on
selecting and installing wiring devices, installing lighting fixtures/switches
and notifying completion of work of floor and wall mounted outlets and
auxiliary outlets.

NOMINAL DURATION: 60 hours

LEARNING OUTCOMES:
At the end of this module you MUST be able to:
1. Select wiring devices
2. Install wiring devices
3. Install lighting fixture/switches
4. Notify completion of work

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
1. Drawings are read and interpreted to determine job requirements
2. Correct type and quantity of wiring devices and consumable items are
identified in line with job requirements
3. Tools and equipment are selected in line with job requirements
4. Correct PPE are identified and selected in line with safety requirements
5. Safety procedures are followed based on safety regulations
6. Correct procedures for installation of wiring devices are performed in
line with job requirements
7. Schedule of work is followed based on agreed time, quality standard
and minimum wastage
8. Further instructions are sought if unplanned events or conditions
occur

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Install Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall
Mounted Outlets, Lighting
Developed by: USTP-CSTE 115
Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets Victor S. Rosales
Maniya B. Arong Revision # 02
9. On-going checking of quality of work is done in accordance with
instructions and requirements.
10. Safety procedures are followed
11. Correct procedures for installation of lighting fixtures/switches
are performed in line with job requirements
12. Schedule of work is followed to ensure work is completed in an
agreed time, to a quality standard and with a minimum waste
13. Further instructions are sought from a supervisor if unplanned
events or conditions occur
14. On-going checks of quality of work are undertaken in accordance
with instructions and requirements
15. Final checks are made to ensure that work conforms with
instructions and to requirements.
16. Supervisor is notified upon completion of work
17. Tools, equipment and any surplus resources and materials are,
where appropriate, cleaned, checked and returned to storage in
accordance with established procedures
18. Work area is cleaned and made safe

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Install Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall
Mounted Outlets, Lighting
Developed by: USTP-CSTE 115
Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets Victor S. Rosales
Maniya B. Arong Revision # 02
LEARNING OUTCOME SUMMARY
Learning Outcome # 1: Select wiring devices
CONTENTS:
1. Types and uses of electrical wiring devices
2. Classification of Wiring devices
3. Proper PPEs

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
1. Drawings are read and interpreted to determine job requirements
2. Correct type and quantity of wiring devices and consumable items are
identified in line with job requirements
3. Tools and equipment are selected in line with job requirements
4. Correct PPE are identified and selected in line with safety
requirements

CONDITIONS:
Students/trainees must be provided with the following:
• Equipment • Supplies and Materials
o Simulated work place or o Wiring devices
actual work place
o ladder
• Learning Materials
o Learning elements
• Tools o Drawing plan
o Linesman’s pliers o Books, manuals, and
o Long nose pliers catalogs
o Diagonal cutting pliers o Philippine Electrical Code
o Bar level
o Screw drivers,
o Set of screw drivers
o Chisel

METHODOLOGIES:
1. Demonstration
2. Discussion
3. Practical exercises
4. Laboratory exercises
5. Audio/Visual film showing

ASSESSMENT METHODS:

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Install Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall
Mounted Outlets, Lighting
Developed by: USTP-CSTE 115
Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets Victor S. Rosales
Maniya B. Arong Revision # 02
1. Direct observation of application of tasks
2. Questions related to underpinning knowledge
3. Demonstration/Practical activity
4. Written test

Electrical Installation and Date Developed: CBLM 1


Maintenance NCII September 2017 Issued by:
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Install Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall
Mounted Outlets, Lighting
Developed by: USTP-CSTE 115
Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets Victor S. Rosales
Maniya B. Arong Revision # 02
Learning Experiences
Learning Outcome # 1 : Select wiring devices

Learning Activities Special Instructions


Read Information Sheet 3.2-1 on Read and understand the
Wiring Devices: Floor and GFCI information sheet and check yourself
Outlets by answering the Self-check. You
must answer all the questions
correctly before proceeding to the
next activity.
Answer Self Check 3.2-1 If you score 100% upon comparing
your answer to answer key of Self
Check 3.2-1, you may proceed to
Information Sheet 3.2-2, if not return
to Info Sheet 3.2-1.
Read Information Sheet 3.2-2 on PEC Read and understand the
Provisions on Wiring Devices information sheet and check yourself
by answering the Self-check. You
must answer all the questions
correctly before proceeding to the
next activity.
Answer Self Check 3.2-2 If you score 100% upon comparing
your answer to answer key of Self
Check 3.2-2, you may proceed to
Information Sheet 3.2-3, if not return
to Info Sheet 3.2-2
Read Information Sheet 3.2-3on Read and understand the
Procedures in Installing Wiring information sheet and check yourself
Devices by answering the Self-check. You
must answer all the questions
correctly before proceeding to the
next activity.
Answer Self Check 3.2-3 If you score 100% upon comparing
your answer to answer key of Self
Check 3.2-3, you may proceed to
Information Sheet 3.2-4, if not return
to Info Sheet 3.2-3.
Perform Task Sheet 3.2-3(a) Task Sheet will help you practice
your skill.

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Maintenance NCII September 2017 Issued by:
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Install Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall
Mounted Outlets, Lighting
Developed by: USTP-CSTE 115
Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets Victor S. Rosales
Maniya B. Arong Revision # 02
The Performance Criteria Checklist
will guide and help you evaluate your
work as you are practicing your skill.
Evaluate your work using the
Performance Criteria. When you are
ready, present your work to your
trainer for final evaluation and
recording.
If you have questions about the use
of the matrix, please ask your trainer.
Perform Task Sheet 3.2-3(b) Task Sheet will help you practice
your skill.
The Performance Criteria Checklist
will guide and help you evaluate your
work as you are practicing your skill.
Evaluate your work using the
Performance Criteria. When you are
ready, present your work to your
trainer for final evaluation and
recording.
If you have questions about the use
of the matrix, please ask your trainer.
Read Information Sheet 3.2-4 Safety Read and understand the
Procedures in Wiring Devices information sheet and check yourself
by answering the Self-check. You
must answer all the questions
correctly before proceeding to the
next activity.
Answer Self Check 3.2-4 If you score 100% upon comparing
your answer to answer key of Self
Check 3.2-4, you may proceed to
Information Sheet 3.2-5, if not return
to Info Sheet 3.2-4.
Read Information Sheet 3.2-5 on GFCI Read and understand the
Outlets information sheet and check yourself
by answering the Self-check. You
must answer all the questions
correctly before proceeding to the
next activity.

Electrical Installation and Date Developed: CBLM 1


Maintenance NCII September 2017 Issued by:
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Install Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall
Mounted Outlets, Lighting
Developed by: USTP-CSTE 115
Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets Victor S. Rosales
Maniya B. Arong Revision # 02
Answer Self Check 3.2-4 If you score 100% upon comparing
your answer to answer key of Self
Check 3.2-5, if not return to Info
Sheet 3.2-5.
After doing all activities of this LO,
you are ready to proceed to the next
LO of this Competency.

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Install Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall
Mounted Outlets, Lighting
Developed by: USTP-CSTE 115
Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets Victor S. Rosales
Maniya B. Arong Revision # 02
Information Sheet 3.1-1
Types of Wiring Devices
Learning Objectives:
After reading this Information Sheet, you must be able to:
1. Define wiring device according to electrical code
2. Identify the types of wiring devices and its classification
3. Guidelines in selecting wiring devices
Introduction

Wiring devices are defined as single discrete units of electrical


distribution systems which are intended to carry but not utilize electric
energy.
Wiring devices are electrical devices used to control and to provide
connection points for low voltage outlets, lighting systems and appliances
(e.g., wall switches and receptacles).
The Philippine Electrical Code (PEC) and National Electrical Code (NEC)
defines device as a unit of an electrical system that is intended to carry or
control but not utilize electric energy.

Types and Classification of Wiring Devices


This covers a wide assortment of system components that include,
however not limited to the following:
1. Switches and Plates
2. Relays and Contactors
3. Receptacles and Plates
4. Conductors
5. Fuses and Circuit Breakers
6. Outlets (Floor Outlet, Grounding Type Convenience Outlet or
otherwise known as Special Purpose Outlet or SPO)

Further, the devises are classified in terms with their functions as path
devices, control devices, fault devices and protective devices.

Path Devices are devices which serves as path of electric current of the
wiring system like wire (conductor) and all parts of the circuit that has a low
resistance.

Control Devices are devices which can regulate the flow of current. They can
make or break the circuit. Lighting Switches are common examples of
control devices

Fault Devices are devices which can immediately detect any fault in the
wiring system. GFCI and AFCI are common examples of fault devices.

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Install Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall
Mounted Outlets, Lighting
Developed by: USTP-CSTE 115
Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets Victor S. Rosales
Maniya B. Arong Revision # 02
Protective Devices are devices which is the weakest link of the circuit and
will protect the circuit from overcurrent. Note: An information sheet about
protective devices are explain in the previous competency.

Guidelines for wiring device application designs.

Selecting and applying wiring devices. Receptacles, switches, plates,


and others are available in a wide range of sizes, ratings, and styles with
specific features and characteristics to meet most design/application
requirements. Grades of wiring devices, manufacturer's catalogs use a variety
of terms to indicate the quality or grade of wiring devices offered.
For example, the term "economy," "competitive," "intermediate," or
"residential" are sometimes used to indicate that the device is economically
priced or designed for light-duty applications. Terms such as "specification"
or "super-specification" would indicate devices that are of better quality,
designed for greater reliability and usually higher priced.
However, none of these terms has an official status with standardizing
agencies such as Underwriters Laboratories (UL), Factory-Mutual (FM),
Electrical Testing Laboratories (ETL), or the National Electrical Manufacturers
Association (NEMA).
Presently, UL lists wiring devices for only two grades, standard and
hospital grade. All devices, whether termed intermediate, economy, or
specification must meet identical UL requirements (although as mentioned
above, specification grade devices are of better quality construction).
Above all, the Philippine Electrical Code must be the basis for the
guidelines for wiring devices and application designs.

How to select wiring devices?


Here the steps in selecting wiring devices:
1. Select a known industry manufacturer.
2. Look for a multi- year product warranty.
3. Make sure that there is an easy and clear way to contact the
manufacturers support.
4. Check for a connected equipment damage warranty.
5. Always ask for manufacturer’s manual.
6. Select wiring devices which are well-made and durable.
7. Select materials that easy to use and install.
8. Select wiring devices according to the job requirements

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Maintenance NCII September 2017 Issued by:
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Install Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall
Mounted Outlets, Lighting
Developed by: USTP-CSTE 115
Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets Victor S. Rosales
Maniya B. Arong Revision # 02
Self-Check 3.1-1

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Install Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall
Mounted Outlets, Lighting
Developed by: USTP-CSTE 115
Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets Victor S. Rosales
Maniya B. Arong Revision # 02
Answer Key 3.1-1

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Mounted Outlets, Lighting
Developed by: USTP-CSTE 115
Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets Victor S. Rosales
Maniya B. Arong Revision # 02
Information Sheet 3.1-2
Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter

Learning Objectives:
After reading this Information Sheet, you must be able to:
1. Explain the theory of operation, connection and purpose of Ground
Fault Circuit Interrupting (GFCI) Device
2. Compare and contrast the types of GFCI
3. Test a GFCI

Introduction
Ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) have been in use for over 40
years, and have proven themselves to be invaluable in the protection of
personnel from the hazard of electric shock. Other types of leakage current
and ground fault protective devices have been introduced for various
applications since the introduction of GFCIs.
The use of some protective devices is specifically required in the
National Electrical Code (NEC) or in the Philippine Electrical Code. Others are
a component of an appliance, as required by the UL standard covering that
appliance. This information sheet will help to understand the purpose and
operation of Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter

WHAT IS A GFCI?
In terms of function and appearance, a floor outlet can be helpful in
many situations. In a conference room, an outlet in the floor under the
conference table makes it much easier to plug in audio visual equipment
without running extension cords to a wall outlet. In the home, the presence
of a floor outlet in the living room aids in arranging the furnishings, since
major seating areas do not have to remain near a wall in order to include the
presence of accent lamps in the grouping.
As with any type of electrical wiring project, it is recommended that the
installation only be conducted by a properly certified electrician.
A ground fault circuit interrupter, called a GFCI or GFI, is an
inexpensive electrical device that can either be installed in your electrical
system or built into a power cord to protect you from severe electrical shocks.
GFCIs have played a key role in reducing electrocutions. Greater use of GFCIs
could further reduce electrocutions and mitigate thousands of electrical burn
and shock injuries still occurring in and around the home each year.
Ground fault protection is integrated into GFCI receptacles and GFCI
circuit breakers for installation into your electrical system, especially for

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Maintenance NCII September 2017 Issued by:
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Install Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall
Mounted Outlets, Lighting
Developed by: USTP-CSTE 115
Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets Victor S. Rosales
Maniya B. Arong Revision # 02
circuit outlets in particularly vulnerable areas such as where electrical
equipment is near water.
Portable GFCIs are also available to provide on-the-spot ground fault
protection even if a GFCI is not installed on the circuit.
The GFCI is designed to protect people from severe or fatal electric
shocks but because a GFCI detects ground faults, it can also prevent some
electrical fires and reduce the severity of other fires by interrupting the flow
of electric current.
According to the Philippine Electrical Code (PEC), Ground-Fault
Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) is a device intended for the protection of personnel
that functions to de-energize a circuit or portion thereof within an established
period of time when a current to ground exceeds the values established for a
Class A device (Class A ground-fault circuit interrupters trip when the current
to ground has a value in the range of 4 mA to 6 mA. For further information,
see UL 943, Standard for Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupters.
Another definition of a ground-fault circuit interrupter is found in
Article 100 of the National Electrical Code (NEC) and is as follows: “A device
intended for the protection of personnel that functions to de-energize a circuit
or portion thereof within an established period of time when a current to
ground exceeds the values established for a Class A device.” Following this
definition, a Fine Print Note provides additional information on what
constitutes a Class A GFCI device. It states that a Class A GFCI trips when
the current to ground has a value in the range of 4 milliamps to 6 milliamps,
and references UL 943, the Standard for Safety for Ground-Fault Circuit-
Interrupters.

What Is A Ground Fault?


A ground fault is an unintentional electrical path between a power
source and a grounded surface. Ground faults most often occur when
equipment is damaged or defective, such that live electrical parts are no longer
adequately protected from unintended contact. If your body provides a path
to the ground for this current, you could be burned, severely shocked or
electrocuted.

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Install Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall
Mounted Outlets, Lighting
Developed by: USTP-CSTE 115
Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets Victor S. Rosales
Maniya B. Arong Revision # 02
Below is an illustration of ground fault.

How Do They Work?


A GFCI constantly monitors current flowing through a circuit. If the
current flowing into the circuit differs by a very small amount (as little as
0.006 amperes) from the returning current, the GFCI interrupts power faster
than a blink of an eye to prevent a lethal dose of electricity.
GFCIs are designed to operate before the electricity can affect your
heartbeat. A GFCI works even on two-slot receptacles.
Here's an example: A bare wire inside an appliance touches its metal
case. The case is then charged with electricity. If you touch the appliance
with one hand while another part of your body is touching a grounded metal
object, such as a water faucet, you will get shocked. If the appliance is
plugged into an outlet protected by a GFCI, the power will be shut off before
a fatal shock can occur.

An illustration of how GFCI works

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Install Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall
Mounted Outlets, Lighting
Developed by: USTP-CSTE 115
Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets Victor S. Rosales
Maniya B. Arong Revision # 02
How to Install
Circuit breaker and receptacle-type GFCIs may be installed in your
home by a qualified and skilled electrician. Receptacle-type GFCIs may be
installed by consumers with adequate knowledge and skills to conform to
proper electrical wiring practices and the instructions accompanying the
device. When in doubt about the proper procedure, contact a qualified
electrician; do not attempt to install it yourself.
A portable GFCI gets plugged into a receptacle just like any other
cord-and-plug-connected device.

How to Test
Test every GFCI:
• After installation.
• At least once a month.
• After a power failure.
• According to the manufacturer’s instructions.

If you do not have the instructions follow this procedure:


• Plug a lamp into the outlet and turn the lamp on.
• Press the GFCI’s test button. Did the light go out? If not, the
GFCI is not working or has not been correctly installed. Contact
a qualified electrician to correct the wiring and/or replace the
defective GFCI.
• Press the reset button. Did the light come back on? If not,
replace the GFCI.

Types of GFCIs
A. CIRCUIT BREAKER GFCI
* A circuit breaker with a built-in GFCI may be installed in a panel box to
add protection to the circuits it supplies.
* Protects against both a ground fault and a circuit overload
* Protects the wiring and every outlet, lighting fixture, or appliance on the
branch circuit that it supplies.

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Install Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall
Mounted Outlets, Lighting
Developed by: USTP-CSTE 115
Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets Victor S. Rosales
Maniya B. Arong Revision # 02
Electrical Installation and Date Developed: CBLM 1
Maintenance NCII September 2017 Issued by:
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Install Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall
Mounted Outlets, Lighting
Developed by: USTP-CSTE 115
Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets Victor S. Rosales
Maniya B. Arong Revision # 02
B. RECEPTACLE GFCI
* Used in place of the standard duplex receptacle.
* Fits into a standard outlet box and protects against ground-faults for
whatever is plugged into the outlet and other electrical outlets further
"down-stream" in the branch circuit.
* Can even replace older ungrounded, two slot receptacles with new GFCI
receptacles.
Must use supplied label “NO EQUIPMENT GROUND GFCI PROTECTED” to
identify that the receptacle is not grounded.
* The Receptacle Type incorporates a GFCI device within one or more
receptacle outlets. Such devices are becoming popular because of their low
cost.

a. Receptacle GFCI b. Circuit Breaker GFCI

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Install Wiring Devices of Floor and Wall
Mounted Outlets, Lighting
Developed by: USTP-CSTE 115
Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets Victor S. Rosales
Maniya B. Arong Revision # 02
Front View of a Receptacle GFCI

Back View of a Receptacle GFCI

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Mounted Outlets, Lighting
Developed by: USTP-CSTE 115
Fixtures/Switches, and Auxiliary Outlets Victor S. Rosales
Maniya B. Arong Revision # 02
C. PORTABLE GFCI
• Used where installed GFCIs are not practical.
• One type contains the GFCI circuitry in a plastic enclosure with plug
blades in the back and receptacle slots in the front. It can be plugged
into a receptacle, then the electrical product is plugged into the GFCI.
• Another type of portable GFCI is an extension cord combined with a
GFCI. It adds flexibility in using receptacles that are not protected by
GFCIs.
• Portable Type GFCIs come in several styles, all designed for easy
transport. Some are designed to plug into existing non-GFCI outlets, or
connect with a cord and plug arrangement. The portable type also
incorporates a no-voltage release device that will disconnect power to
the outlets if any supply conductor is open. Units approved for outdoor
use will be in enclosures suitable for the environment. If exposed to
rain, they must be listed as waterproof.

A. The Cord-Connected Type of GFCI is an attachment plug incorporating the


GFCI module. It protects the cord and any equipment attached to the cord.

B. Plug Type. The attachment plug has a non-standard appearance with test
and reset buttons. Like the portable type, it incorporates a no-voltage release
device that will disconnect power to the load if any supply conductor is open.

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Self-Check 3.1-2

Identification: Identify what is being described. Used the box below for your
choices.

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter Ground Fault


Circuit Breaker GFCI Receptacle GFCI
Portable GFCI

___________________ 1. It is an inexpensive electrical device that can either be


installed in your electrical system or built into a power cord to protect you
from severe electrical shocks.
___________________ 2. It is an unintentional electrical path between a power
source and a grounded surface.
___________________ 3. A GFCI that protects against both a ground fault and
a circuit overload
___________________ 4. A GFCI that can be used in place of the standard
duplex receptacle.

___________________ 5. A GFCI that is to be used where installed GFCIs are


not practical.

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Answer Key 3.1-2

1. Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter


2. Ground Fault
3. Circuit Breaker GFCI
4. Receptacle GFCI
5. Portable GFCI

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Information Sheet 3.1-3
FLOOR OUTLETS
Learning Objectives:
After reading this Information Sheet, you must be able to:
1. Describe a floor outlet
2. Identify the types of floor outlets

This information sheet will describe and identify the types of floor outlets

FLOOR OUTLETS

Floor outlets are electrical outlets that are installed into a floor area
rather than into a wall. Often, a floor outlet will be equipped with a metal plate
to protect the outlet and wiring, along with a cover that prevents dust and
other material from collecting in the outlet when the device is not in use.
Outlets of this type are usually found in dens and living rooms of homes, as
well as in conference rooms or other larger gathering areas in offices and
public buildings.

As with any type of outlet, the floor outlet is intended to allow easy
access to electrical current. Because the plug can be placed at any point along
the floor, it is possible to strategically position several outlets within a space,
creating easy access to electricity even when a power source is needed
somewhere other than along a wall. When not in use, covers snap or slide into
place in order to protect the outlets and also to allow the floor to retain a
smooth surface.

Beneath the surface of the floor, the configuration of the floor outlet is
similar to that of a standard wall outlet. The plugs are housed in an outlet
box and normally connected to a central junction box that helps regulate
electric power flow. Wiring runs from the outlet box to the central junction in
the same manner that electrical wiring runs through walls to a central power
source.

While it is possible to use plastic or porcelain plates with a floor outlet,


the general recommendation is to utilize metal plates. Durable metal is much
less likely to be damaged if the outlet is stepped on when not in use. The metal
covers can hold up well to a lot of weight, which will help to keep the general
appearance of the outlet simple and clean. When necessary, the metal plates
can be outfitted with covers that are spring loaded to snap closed when the
outlets are not in use.

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In terms of function and appearance, a floor outlet can be helpful in
many situations. In a conference room, an outlet in the floor under the
conference table makes it much easier to plug in audio visual equipment
without running extension cords to a wall outlet. In the home, the presence
of a floor outlet in the living room aids in arranging the furnishings, since
major seating areas do not have to remain near a wall in order to include the
presence of accent lamps in the grouping.

Installing a floor outlet is very similar to the installation of a wall outlet.


As with any type of electrical wiring project, it is recommended that the
installation only be conducted by a properly certified electrician.

EXAMPLES of FLOOR OUTLETS

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The National Electrical Code requires floor outlets to be a part of an
approved assembly consisting of a metal box, gasket seal, special receptacle
and strong cover plate with a moisture-proof cover. You can't just mount a
regular wall outlet in the floor. The first time someone stepped on it, it would
break. Besides, mopping a floor around an outlet that doesn't have a
moisture-proof cover could cause corroded connections, or worse, give you a
lethal shock.

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Self-Check 3.1-3

True or False: Write the word TRUE if the statement is correct and FALSE if
the state is incorrect. Write your answer on the space before the number.

___________________ 1. Floor outlets are electrical outlets that are installed


into a wall area rather than into a floor.
___________________ 2. Floor outlets are usually found in dens and living
rooms of homes.
___________________ 3. As with any type of outlet, the floor outlet is intended
to allow easy access to electrical current.
___________________ 4. A floor outlet will be equipped with a metal plate to
protect the outlet and wiring, along with a cover that prevents dust and other
material from collecting in the outlet when the device is not in use
___________________ 5. The configuration of the floor outlet is similar to that
of a standard wall outlet.
___________________ 6. While it is possible to use plastic or porcelain plates
with a floor outlet, the general recommendation is to utilize metal plates
___________________ 7. In terms of function and appearance, a floor outlet can
be helpful in many situations.
___________________ 8. Installing a floor outlet is very similar to the installation
of a wall outlet.
___________________ 9. The National Electrical Code requires floor outlets to
be a part of an approved assembly consisting of a metal box, gasket seal,
special receptacle and strong cover plate with a moisture-proof cover.
___________________ 10. It is recommended that the installation only be
conducted by a properly certified electrician.

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Answer Key 3.1-3

1. False
2. True
3. True
4. True
5. True
6. True
7. True
8. True
9. True

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Information Sheet 3.1.4
CONTROL DEVICES/SWITCHES
Learning Objectives:
After reading this Information Sheet, you must be able to:
1. Describe a control device or a switch
2. Differentiate the types of switches

Introduction
Circuit control devices have many different shapes and sizes, but most
circuit control devices are either SWITCHES, SOLENOIDS, or RELAYS.
In electrical installation, a SWITCH is a device, which can make or
break an electrical circuit or we can say that switch is a controlling device,
which interrupt the flow of current or direct the flow of current in another
direction.
Almost all the electrical wiring systems contain at least one switch,
which is used to make the device ON or OFF. In addition, a switch is used to
control the circuit operation and user may able to activate or deactivate the
whole or certain parts of the connected circuit.
When the contacts of a switch are closed, the switch creates the closed
path for current flow and hence load consumes the power from source. When
the contacts of a switch are open, no power will be consumed by the load as
shown in below figure.

There are numerous switch applications found in wide variety fields


such as home, automobiles, industrial, military, aerospace and so on. In some
applications multi way switching is employed (like building wiring), in such
cases two or more switches are interconnected to control an electrical load
from more than one location.

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Types of Switches
Switches open and close electrical circuits, allowing power to flow
through lights and appliances. At one time, they were pretty simple—just a
toggle you flipped on and off. But things have changed. As our needs for
energy efficiency have evolved and technology has improved, light switches
have undergone a renaissance.
New switches offer a wide range of control, such as full-range dimming,
a delayed fade from on to off, and dimmer switches that remember a range
of preset settings.
Some occupancy sensor switches automatically turn lights on when a
person enters a room and then off when the person exits. Central lighting
controls can be programmed to operate groups or banks of lights throughout
the house as the needs for lighting in various areas change throughout the
day. Lights, fans, and other electrical devices can be controlled with hand-
held, infrared, wireless remotes. And there are switches designed to control
compact fluorescent, fluorescent and halogen lights.
Some switches are operated with keys, timers, or photoelectric eyes
that sense daylight. Other switches are paired up with electrical outlets
(“combination” switches). You say it’s hard to find a switch in the dark? For
that situation, you need a switch with a pilot light. Outdoor switches,
mounted in a special waterproof electrical box, are operated with a lever that
protects against shock.
Switches can be of mechanical or electronic type:
a. Mechanical switches must be activated physically, by moving,
pressing, releasing, or touching its contacts.
b. Electronic switches do not require any physical contact in order to
control a circuit. These are activated by semiconductor action.
Mechanical Switches
Mechanical switches can be classified into different types based on
several factors such as method of actuation (manual, limit and process
switches), number of contacts (single contact and multi contact switches),
number of poles and throws (SPST, DPDT, SPDT, etc.), operation and
construction (push button, toggle, rotary, joystick, etc), based on state
(momentary and locked switches), etc.

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Based on the number of poles and throws, switches are classified into
following types.
The pole represents the number of individual power circuits that can
be switched. Most of the switches are designed have one, two or three poles
and are designated as single pole, double pole and triple pole.
The number of throws represents the number of states to which
current can pass through the switch. Most of the switches are designed to
have either one or two throws which are designated as single throw and
double throw switches.

Electronic Switches
As opposed to mechanical switches which requires the user to make
contact with the switch for activation, an electronic switch does not require
pressure for activation. This can be especially helpful, when a client presents
with limited movement and/or strength.
The electronic switches are generally called as solid state switches
because there are no physical moving parts and hence absence of physical
contacts. Most of the appliances are controlled by semiconductor switches
such as motor drives and HVAC equipment.
There are different types of solid state switches are available in today
market with different sizes and ratings.
Electronic switches are faster in response than mechanical switches
and can be switched automatically by an electronic circuit like microcontroller
or microprocessor. They can also be categories on the basis of current and
voltage rating like mechanical switches.
The question arises here, why we need electronics switch? The answer
of the question is that sometimes, it is necessary that circuit, which makes
decision also turn OFF or ON certain devices based on the decision. If only

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mechanical switch is used, then there should be one person present there all
the time to make the device ON and OFF after getting indication message from
the circuit. To eliminate this problem, electronics switches are used then.
They are very much fast and accurate as compared to mechanical switches.
Electronic switches are small in size and do not make noise while switching
operation and they make sure the stability and reliability of the system,
Bipolar Transistors

A transistor either allows the current to pass or it blocks the current as


similar to working of normal switch.

In switching circuits, transistor operates in cut-off mode for OFF or current


blocking condition and in saturation mode for ON condition. The active
region of the transistor is not used for switching applications.

Both NPN and PNP transistors are operated or switched ON when a


sufficient base current is supplied to it. When a small current flows though
the base terminal supplied by a driving circuit (connected between the base
and emitter), it causes to turns ON the collector-emitter path.

And it is turned OFF when the base current is removed and base voltage is
reduced to a slight negative value. Even though it utilizes small base
current, it is capable to carry much higher currents through the collector-
emitter path.

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Power Diode

A diode can perform switching operations between its high and low state
impedance states. Semiconductor materials like silicon and germanium are
used for constructing the diodes.

Usually, power diodes are constructed using silicon in order to operate the
device at higher currents and higher junction temperatures. These are
constructed by joining p and n type semiconductor materials together to
form PN junction. It has two terminals namely anode and cathode.

When the anode is made positive with respect to cathode and by the
application of voltage greater than the threshold level, PN junction is forward
biased and starts conducting (like ON switch). When the cathode terminal is
made positive with respect to anode, PN junction reverse biased and its
blocks the current flow (like OFF switch).

MOSFET

Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor (MOSFET) is a unipolar


and high frequency switching device. It is a most commonly used switching
device is power electronic applications. It has three terminals namely drain
(output), source (common) and gate (input).

It is a voltage controlled device, i.e., by controlling input (gate to source)


voltage, resistance between the drain and source is controlled which further
determines the ON and OFF state of the device.

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MOSFETs can be a P-channel or N-channel devices. The N-channel MOSFET
is tuned ON by applying a positive VGS with respect to the source (provided
that VGS should be greater than threshold voltage).

P-channel MOSFET operates in a similar manner of N-channel MOSFET but


it uses reverse polarity of voltages. Both VGS and VDD are negative with
respect the source to switch ON the P- channel MOSFET.

IGBT

IGBT (Insulated Gate Bipolar Transistor) combines the several advantages of


bipolar junction power transistor and power MOSFET. Like a MOSFET, it is
a voltage controlled device and has lower ON state voltage drop (less than
that of MOSFET and closer to power transistor).

It is a three terminal semiconductor high speed switching device. These


terminals are emitter, collector and gate.

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Similar to the MOSFET, IGBT can be turned ON by applying a positive
voltage (greater than the threshold voltage) between the gate and emitter.
IGBT can be turned by reducing the voltage across the gate-emitter to zero.
In most of the case it needs negative voltage to reduce turn OFF losses and
safely turn OFF the IGBT.

SCR

A Silicon Controlled Rectifier (SCR) most widely used high speed switching
device for power control applications. It is a unidirectional device as a diode,
consisting of three terminals, namely anode, cathode and gate.

An SCR is turned ON and OFF by controlling its gate input and biasing
conditions of the anode and cathode terminals. SCR consists of four layers
of alternate P and N layers such that boundaries of each layer forms
junctions J1, J2 and J3.

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TRIAC

Triac (or TRIode AC) switch is a bidirectional switching device which is an


equivalent circuit of two back to back SCRs connection with one gate
terminal.

Its capability to control AC power in both positive and negative peaks of the
voltage waveform often makes these devices to be used in motor speed
controllers, light dimmers, pressure control systems, motor drives and other
AC control equipments.

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DIAC

A DIAC (or DIode AC switch) is bidirectional switching device and it consists


of two terminals which are not named as anode and cathode. It means that
a DIAC can be operated in either direction regardless of the terminal
identification. This indicates that the DIAC can be used in either direction.

When a voltage is applied across a DIAC, it either operates in forward


blocking or reverse blocking mode unless the applied voltage is less than the
breakover voltage. Once the voltage is increased more than breakover
voltage, avalanche breakover occurs and device starts conducting.

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Gate Turn-Off Thyristor

A GTO (Gate Turn off Thyristor) is a bipolar semiconductor switching device.


It has three terminals as anode, cathode and gate. As the name implies, this
switching device is capable to turn OFF through gate terminal.

A GTO is turned ON by applying a small positive gate current triggers the


conduction mode and turned OFF by a negative pulse to the gate. GTO
symbol consists of double arrows on the gate terminal which represents the
bidirectional flow of current through gate terminal.

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Self-Check 3.1-4

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Answer Key 3.1.4

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Information Sheet 3.1-5

Types of Mechanical Switches

Learning Objectives:
After reading this Information Sheet, you must be able to:
1. Differentiate the types of mechanical switches
2. Determine the types of mechanical switch used for controlling lights

Single Pole Single Throw Switch (SPST)

The simplest and most common light switch is actually referred to by


hardware dealers and electricians as a “single-pole light switch.” With a
single-pole light switch, flipping the lever up completes the circuit, turning
lights or appliances on, and flipping it down breaks the circuit, turning lights
or receptacles off.
This is a simple ON/OFF switch. It is also called as One-Way Switch (in
the US, they called it Two-Way Switch). When a user presses the button of the
switch, then the plates of the switch connect with each other and the current
starts to flow and vice versa.

SPST (Single Pole Single Through) Switch

• This is the basic ON and OFF switch consisting of one input contact and
one output contact.
• It switches a single circuit and it can either make (ON) or break (OFF)
the load.

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• The contacts of SPST can be either normally open or normally closed
configurations .

A single-pole switch has two terminal screws on the side that receive
the wires of the circuit. (The number of terminal screws identifies the type of
switch.) Some single-pole switches also have a green grounding screw (not
shown) that connects to the circuit’s ground wire. Different brands vary with
the style and configuration and markings of a SPST.
With a single-pole light switch, flipping the lever up completes the
circuit, turning lights or appliances on, and flipping it down breaks the
circuit, turning lights or receptacles off. A single-pole switch has two
terminal screws on the side.

Single Pole Double Throw Switch (SPDT)

This switch has three terminals, one is input contact and remaining two
are output contacts.

• This means it consist two ON positions and one OFF position.


• In most of the circuits, these switches are used as changeover to connect
the input between two choices of outputs.
• The contact which is connected to the input by default is referred as
normally closed contact and contact which will be connected during ON
operation is a normally open contact.

• This button has three pins in which, one pin is used as common and
called a Two-Way Switch (in US, they called it Three-Way Switch). We
can send two different signals to same pin by using this switch. Because
of this functionality, this switch is also called selector switch.

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• Other switches related to SPDT are SPCO (Single Pole Changeover) and
SPTT (Single Pole Center Off or Single Pole Triple Throw)

SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) Switch

Double Pole Single Throw Switch (DPST)

This switch consists of four terminals, two input contacts and two output
contacts.
• It behaves like a two separate SPST configurations, operating at the same
time.
• It has only one ON position, but it can actuate the two contacts
simultaneously, such that each input contact will be connected to its
corresponding output contact.
• In OFF position both switches are at open state.

• This type of switches is used for controlling two different circuits at a


time.

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• Also, the contacts of this switch may be either normally open or normally
closed configurations.
• This switch is basically two SPST switches in one package and can be
operated by a single lever. This switch is mostly used, where we have to
break both ground and lines at the same time.

DPST (Double Pole, Single Throw) Switch

Double Pole Double Throw Switch (DPDT)

This switch is equivalent to two SPDT switches packaged in one pack.


This switch has two common pins and four signal pins. Total four different
combination of singles can be applied to the input pins of this switch.
Another switch, related to DPDT is DPCO (Double Pole Changeover or
Double Pole, Centre Off).

DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) switch

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• This is a dual ON/OFF switch consisting of two ON positions.
• It has six terminals, two are input contacts and remaining four are the
output contacts.
• It behaves like a two separate SPDT configuration, operating at the same
time.
• Two input contacts are connected to the one set of output contacts in
one position and in another position, input contacts are connected to the
other set of output contacts

Three Way Switch

A three-way wall switch is a variation of the standard single-pole switch


that makes it possible to control a ceiling light or other electrical fixture from
two different locations in a room. In a hallway or large room, for example,
installing three-way switches at both ends lets you turn the light fixture on or
off from both locations.
A light or lights can be controlled by more than one switch. The usual
practice in home construction is to use 3-way switches. "3-way" is the
electrician's designation for a single pole double throw (SPDT) switch.

A 3-way switch is shown below.


Here is a typical circuit in its four possible states.:

The switches must create a complete circuit for current to flow and the
bulb to light. When both switches are up, the circuit is complete (top right).
When both switches are down, the circuit is complete (bottom right). If one

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switch is up and one is down, the current reaches a dead end, no current
flows and the bulb is off (top left and bottom left).
Note that the above color scheme does NOT reflect wire color. It is
functional coloring intended to illustrate the voltage state of each wire
segment.

• Red indicates a hot wire (120 volts ac).


• Green indicates a neutral wire at ground potential.
• Blue indicates a wire that is floating. "Floating" here means isolated
from hot and neutral by switches and/or light bulbs.

Typical Three Way Switch

Screw Terminals on Three-Way Switches


If you examine a three-way switch, you will notice several differences
when compared to standard single-pole switches. First, the body of the switch
will be thicker and bulkier than a single-pole switch. And the switch toggle lever
will not have the ON-OFF markings found on a single-pole switch. The biggest
difference, though, will be in the screw terminals on the switch.
While standard single-pole switches have two screw terminals on one
side of the switch, plus a third green grounding screw terminal connected to
the metal strap, three-way switches come equipped with another screw
terminal.
If you look over the three-way switch, you will notice that this extra screw
terminal is a darker color than the other two brass-colored terminals.
This is known as the common connection of the switch. Depending on
where the switch will be in the circuit layout, the purpose of this
common connection is to either to deliver electrical current from the power
source (the circuit-breaker box) to one of the switches or to deliver the current
onward from the second switch to the light fixture.

The other two screw terminals on the switch body will be brass-colored. These
are used to connect the circuit wires that run between the two three-way

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switches. These are known as the traveler terminals, and the wires running
between the switches are known as traveler wires.

In a circuit situation, normally these traveler wires will have black and
red insulation. When the switches are installed, these traveler wires allow
electrical current to pass between the switches—or they interrupt the circuit
flow to turn the light fixture OFF. At any given moment when the light fixture
is ON, the power may be flowing through either the black or the red traveler
wire. This will vary depending what position the switch toggle levers are in.
Some brands of a three-way switch terminals have labels 0, 1 and 3. Zero
is the common while 2 and 3 are for travelers.

Wire Connections
Three-way switches have different methods of connection, depending on
the brand of the switch. The switch may also have several ways to make the
wire connections. All switches have screws on the side, but some also come
with push-fitting holes or slots to slide the wire into. Still others come with a
quick-mount, spring-loaded slot alongside the screw terminals that are
designed to hold the wires in place.
Although these push fittings or slot-fittings may be the quickest way to
connect a switch, this method is not recommended, as it is generally less
secure.
Professional electricians who want to avoid callbacks always use the
screw terminal connections which rarely come loose.

Wiring Problems in Three-Way Switch Installations


Three-way switches are tricky to install, especially for DIYers who are
replacing a bad switch. One of the most common problems is improper wiring—
connecting the circuit wires to the wrong screw terminals.
It's very easy to mix up three-way switch wiring when replacing a three-
way switch, especially because in older wiring systems the standard color-
coding of wires may look different than it does in newer installations. The best
way to prevent this is to take the time to mark the wires before you remove any
wires from the old switch, The wire connected to the common screw terminal is
the most important to mark. It must always connect to the darkest-colored
terminal screw.
By placing a colored piece of tape or label on the wire, it will be easy to
find when you connect the new switch.
It's also a good idea remove and reconnect one wire at a time when
replacing switches. By doing this one wire at a time, you can ensure you are
connecting the new switch correctly. This can sometimes be difficult, though,
if the circuit wires in the wall box are too short—in this case, marking the wires
is essential.

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Mechanical Problems with Three-Way Switches

Problems with switches occur when wire connections come loose, or


when the switch itself fails. Switches are mechanical devices that can wear out
after hundreds or thousands of clicks.

If you suspect a loose wire connection, turn off the power to the circuit
at the circuit breaker box before inspecting the wire connections on the switch.
Make sure they are all tight. Also, check any wire nut connections on other
circuit wires in the wall box. For example, there likely will be a neutral wire
connection inside the box (usually these are white wires); make sure this wire
nut connection is also secure. If you find that this neutral wire connection is
made with electrical tape you should replace it with a wire nut.

If a switch makes a sizzling or popping sound when you turn the switch
ON, it means that the switch contacts are becoming worn and aren't making
good contact. This switch should be changed immediately to avoid bigger
electrical problems.

By inspecting your switches periodically, you'll ensure safe and effective


electrical connections.

A typical illustration of a three-way switch

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Four-Way Switches
Four-way switch configurations are used to control lights with three or
more switches. A 3-way switch is used on each end with one or more 4-way
switches in between the two 3-way switches. They do not have an on/off
position like single pole switches. It is important to understand how these
switches are wired before attempting to troubleshoot or replace.

A four-way switch
Some brands of a four-way switch has terminal labels of 1, 2, 3 and 4.
Always refer to the manufacturers manual before using a 4-way switch.

Conventional 4-Way Switch Wiring


4-way switches have four terminals each with two pairs of travelers (one set
usually black and one set usually brass color). A four-switch configuration
will have two 3-way switches, one on each end and two 4-way switches in the
middle.
In the diagrams below, the first switch (3-way) common terminal connects to
120 volts.
The first switch (3-way) travelers (brass color) connect to one pair of the
second switch (4-way) travelers (black or brass color).
The other pair of the second switch (4-way) travelers connect to one pair of
the third switch (4-way) travelers.
The other pair of the third switch (4-way) travelers connect to one pair of the
fourth switch (3-way) travelers.
The fourth switch (3-way) common terminal connects to the load (lights).

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Self-Check 3.1-5

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Answer Key 3.1-5

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Information Sheet 3.1-6
Electronic Operated Switches
Learning Objectives:
After reading this Information Sheet, you must be able to:
1. Differentiate the types of electronic switches
2. Determine the types of electronic switch used for controlling lights

Introduction:
Due to the changing development of technology, there are
variety of brands, types, configurations of electronic switch used for electrical
wiring. Some of these is used for controlling lights and some of these are for
security purpose.
This information sheet is limited only to the types of electronic
switches applicable to the specialization.

Photocells and Timers


Photocells and timers are switches that turn on and off automatically.
Photocells are commonly used to control lighting. Timers are used to control
fans, water pumps, irrigation controls, etc. Photocells and timers have a
wattage rating. Do not exceed the wattage rating for the load on these
switches.
Photocells/Photoswitch
Photocells are a type of switch used to automatically turn on in the morning
(sunrise) and turn off at night (sunset). They are most commonly used to
control lighting. Photocells are better than time switches for lighting because
of the variations in time of sunrise and sunset. Most new photocells are
compatible with CFLs (check the package of the photocell for compatibility).
Some CFLs are available with built-in photocells, but will not work in recessed
(can) lights. Some photocells screw into a socket in a light fixture and a bulb
screws into the photocell.
A photoswitch, or photo-electric switch, is a sensor that detects the
presence in or change of light
A switch that is activated by light.
Photocell sensors are light-detecting devices that act as automatic switches
to power electrically powered devices on or off in the presence of light.
The photocells inside the switches usually work on the principal of
changing resistance with light intensity. These are photo-resistive cells.

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These photocells sense when it is day (light) and night (dark). When it is
dark enough they switch on the light automatically.
When light hits the tiny photocell, it produces a small amount of electricity
which is amplified to activate the switch inside the photoelectric switch.
Photocells are available for most voltages and various watt or electrical
circuit load requirements.
Manufacturers construct photocell sensors using high-resistance
semiconductors.
In the dark, the resistance is high enough to prevent the flow of electricity.
However, in the light, the resistance drops, allowing the power to flow.
Manufacturers pair the dissimilar materials to produce the photocell with
the characteristics the application requires.

Uses of Photo Switch


Photo switches are used for numerous scientific and manufacturing
applications.
Widely used for street, highway, factories, garden, ports, airports, farm,
parks, schools, and other places
a. One common use is in automatic lights or street lights that turn on at dusk
and off at sunrise
b. They are also commonly used in residential areas to turn lights on and off
based on the time of day.
c. It can fit into solar lamps and lanterns, electric cars and other power supply
voltage of 220V AC lamps and lanterns or equipment.
d. It can be installed on the wood, metal and concrete pole.
e. It is also used by business signboards that lights up through the night.
f. However due to it’s limited versatility, these kind of switches can never be
used in industries where they need to time start certain machines or
equipment.

Disadvantages
The user can never specify the time. It all depends on the sun and the
availability of light source.

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Because the cells are so light sensitive, the placement of these switches
have to be taken into account when installing such a switch.
If it is placed too near to the light and is able to absorb the rays from that
light, the switch will not perform accordingly.

Internal Parts of a photo switch (parts may vary depending on the brand)

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Installation/Wiring of the Photo Switch

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Dimmer Switches
Dimmer switches are used to control lighting level and can save energy.
Dimmers work by limiting the voltage that goes to a lighting load. Dimmers
work very well with incandescent bulbs because of a wide dimming range.
Dimmers, or dimmer switches, change the current going to the light
source and adjust the brightness of the light depending on the user
requirements, tasks or activities being performed. Lights can be dimmed
manually or by remote control.

Personal control of lighting has been shown to reduce lighting energy


costs on a nearly 1:1 ratio while enhancing occupancy experience. Light
sources use less energy when dimmed and can automatically save 4-9
percent in electricity usage over a standard toggle switch. Dimming also
increases lamp life, which saves energy and reduces maintenance costs.

It is important that you select a dimmer that is tested and UL listed


for your specific lighting source, be it incandescent, halogen, magnetic low
voltage, electronic low voltage, neon/cold cathode, fluorescent or LED.

For other types of bulbs including CFLs, halogen, and LEDs, check to
see that they are “dimmable” on the bulb package. Dimmable CFLs are
usually more expensive and have a limited dimming range, mostly at the dim
end.

Dimmer Switch Usage


• Dining areas
• Turning on certain lights at night without being blinded (kitchen,
bathrooms, and bedrooms)
• A 3-way dimmer can replace one of two 3-way switches

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Do Dimmers Save Energy?
While older rheostat type dimmers do not, modern dimmers do save energy
when dimming lights. Dimming lights also extend the life of incandescent
light bulbs.
Dimmer Feels Very Warm
It is normal for a dimmer to feel warm especially if the lighting load is close
to the dimmer rating. A higher wattage dimmer may need to be installed if
the following apply:
• If the lighting load is higher that the dimmer rating.
• The dimmer feels too hot.

Dimmer Functions
There are 4 basic dimmer functions.

• Adjustment: to adjust the intensity of light. Done with a knob, slide, or touch
pad.
• Presets: When you turn off the light, then turn it on, the dimmer remembers
the intensity.
This is done with separate intensity controls and an on/off switch.
• Remote / 3-Way: These allow you to control lights from more than 1 location.
• Indicator Light: This makes it easy to locate in a dark room, or tell the
difference between off and very dim.

How Dimmers Work


There is some confusion concerning how dimmers work, since early dimmers
worked differently than modern dimmers. Dimmers for different types of light
(incandescent, fluorescent) also work differently from each other.

• Different light sources require different dimmers. Don't use a low voltage
dimmer on a 120 volt fixture.
• Incandescent and halogen dimmers contain a switch called a "triac".The triac
turns the lights on and off 120 times a second.
• The length of time the dimmer is on or off determines the brightness.
Adjust the dimmer with the knob, slider, or rocker to set the on/off time.
• Older dimmers changed the resistance or voltage of the circuit.
Modern dimmers do not.

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There are many types of dimmers, all designed to be compatible with certain
light sources and lighting systems. When choosing a dimmer for your lights,
here are the important factors you need to consider.

Dimmer Type

How many switches control your light fixture? That’s the first question you’ll
need to ask yourself when choosing a dimmer. Here are the four basic types
for your lights that you can choose from:

Single-Pole Dimmer – The single-pole dimmer is designed for light fixtures


that are controlled by only one dimmer in your home. In other words, this
dimmer is the only switch used to turn your lights on and off, as well as to
dim.

Three-way or Four-way Dimmer – These dimmers are for light fixtures that
are controlled by only one dimmer plus one or more on and off switches in
other places in your home.

Multi-location Dimmer – If your light fixture uses multiple companion


dimmers, you will need a multi-location dimmer. Using multiple dimmers
allows full dimming control from more than one location.

Plug-In Dimmer – Plug-in dimmers are used to dim the bulb in your table
and floor lamps. Many of these lamp dimmers are compatible with
incandescent, CFL, and LED bulbs.

Bulb Type Compatible for Dimmer Switches

Incandescent/Halogen – If you are using standard incandescent or halogen


lighting in your home, standard incandescent dimmers are what you’ll need
to reduce the brightness. These dimmers work in a very interesting way.
Many people might think that dimming involves reducing the electrical
current, but actually, dimmers rapidly turn the bulb’s circuit on and off at
rates much faster than we can see (typically over 100 times per second).

Compact Fluorescent and LED – In order to dim energy-efficient lights, you


should first make sure that the lights themselves are capable of dimming.
Because technology is advancing, dimmable LED and CFL technology is
becoming much more reliable. Once you’ve got your dimmable bulbs, then
you can focus on making sure your dimmer is compatible. If you were to try

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to use an incandescent dimmer with an LED or CFL, it would only cause
your lights to not dim correctly or malfunction completely.

Magnetic Low-Voltage (MLV) – Low-voltage lighting systems require the use


of a transformer to regulate the line voltage. If a transformer used within a
lighting system is magnetic, you will need a magnetic dimmer. Magnetic
dimmers are inductive and use symmetric forward phase-control in order to
dim.

Electronic Low-voltage (ELV) – Electronic transformers in low-voltage


lighting systems require a compatible electronic dimmer. Electronic dimmers
are capacitive and use reverse phase-control for dimming.

Wattage
Once you know what kind of light source you're using, you have to be sure
the wattage of your bulbs is compatible with your dimmer. That said, you
also must take into consideration how many bulbs you are using on one
dimmer. Some people assume that just because LEDs consume less
wattage, the same incandescent dimmer can be operated with more LED
bulb that consume a fraction of the wattage of an incandescent. Due to
something called inrush current, or the maximum, instantaneous input
current drawn by an electrical device when first turned on, using more LEDs
than you would incandescents on a dimmer will only render the dimmer
ineffective.

For example, if dimmer can handle 300 watts of electricity and five 60-watt
bulbs, that does not mean that it will be able to handle 30 or more LEDs at
8.5 watts. If a dimmer could only handle five incandescent bulbs, only use
five LEDs.

Control Style

Once you’ve gotten past all of the technical elements and narrowed down
your choices, you can start to focus on the more superficial stuff – like how
the dimmer looks. Dimmers come in many different colors and styles, so it’s
all a matter of personal preference. The styles of the dimmer switches are
varied and come in options as varied as toggles, rotaries, and even touch-
sensitive dimmers.

Types of dimmers

As mentioned above, nowadays dimmers serve more than just a single


purpose and there is a great scope of different type of dimmers

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available serving different situations and matching with different lamps.
When purchasing your own light dimmer, keep in mind that not all light
dimmers are designed to control all types of bulbs.
▪ Universal Dimmer. Universal dimmers are designed to control
incandescent, halogen, dimmable LED and dimmable CFL bulbs. They
offer great dimming at full-range and it is very unlikely that you will
experience flickering of lights if using an universal dimmer. The only
thing that cannot be forgotten is to check (and double-check) if your LED
or CFL bulbs are actually dimmable ones.
▪ High Wattage Dimmers. Designed to control high wattage lighting and
lamps that control numerous bulbs.
▪ Electronic Low Voltage Dimmer. ELV dimmers are used for controlling
low voltage transformers and dimmable LED power supplies.
▪ Magnetic Low Voltage Dimmer. Great for work with recessed lights.
▪ Incandescent/Halogen Dimmer. Works for controlling the brightness
of incandescent and halogen lights. Only these types of bulbs can be
used together with this dimmer and at attempt to connect it to LED or
CFL bulbs can cause a huge damage to your lamp and can be possibly
dangerous.
▪ Fluorescent Dimmer. Designed for use with fluorescent lamps.
▪ Dimming Sensor. These are the newest generation dimmers which
combine adjusting the brightness with energy efficient control system
and motion sensors (links). These are the smartest dimmers available in
the market and they have gone as far as using software that analyses
the controlled area and performs digital adjustments, automatically
changing the sensitivity and timer settings.
Also the styles of dimmers can be chosen according to the aesthetic and
functional needs providing:
▪ Tabletop dimmers;
▪ Lamp dimmers;
▪ Socket dimmers;
▪ Slide switches;
▪ Rotary switches;
▪ Digital dimmers;
▪ Toggle switches.

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Which types of light bulbs are dimmable?

Dimmable bulbs
It is possible to find a dimmer switch for nearly every type of bulb but,
if you want to stick to a simple and inexpensive solution, it is advised not to
choose any arc lighting bulbs e.g. mercury vapor, metal halide or sodium
vapor, as they require more specialized dimming equipment.
Also, ask the retailer which of the available products have been tested for
dimming by manufacturers. If the shop’s personnel do not have enough
knowledge on these matters, check the manufacturer’s website or try
contacting them via phone or e-mail. The most common bulbs that can be
dimmed are:

▪ Fluorescent light bulbs. Not all of the fluorescent light bulbs are made
to be compatible with light dimmers (they need a special dimmable ballast
for that) so check the product’s description carefully prior purchasing a
fluorescent bulb that you would like to dim.
▪ LED light bulbs. Dimmable LED light bulbs can be dimmed with a normal
resistive dimmer. They consume very low wattages and are extremely
energy efficient. However, there are also non-dimmable LED lamps that
won’t work with any of the dimmers and can be damaged if connected to
any.
▪ Incandescent and halogen light bulbs. Works with nearly every dimmer
switch and can be dimmed completely. However the production and usage
of the incandescent light bulb is slowly being decreased and stopped in

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many countries as now there are more energy-efficient bulbs out there.
Similarly as incandescent lamps, also halogen bulbs are easy to be
controlled by a dimmer and they are compatible with several types of
dimmers.

Dimmers with or without On/Off Switches

One of the most notable differences between dimmer types is whether they
have an on/off switch or not. If the dimmer has an off/off switch, you can
leave the dimmer pre-set to a specific level, then just toggle the switch on and
off. That's ideal if you don't plan to adjust the dimness of your lighting very
often and don't want to fuss with adjust it each time you turn on the lights.

In my own home, I generally have the lights either on full blast or off. For that
reason, I have dimmers without off/on switches - I just push the slider all the
way up when I enter the room and all the way down when I leave. Then, on
the rare occasion I choose to dim the lights, I slide it to the right spot.

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Dimmer Styles & Finishes

As you can see, there are a number of types of dimmers. Light dimmers
come as rocker, slide, rotary and toggle. Choose the look and style that fits
your home, or that fits the type of switch plate opening you are trying to fill.

One thing to note is that not all styles are available in every color or finish.

Here are the other options available for each finish:

White Dimmers:

All dimmer types are available in a white finish.

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Black Dimmer Switches:

There are also a good variety of dimmers to choose from in black.

Brown Dimmer Styles:

The only style you won't find in brown is the slide dimmer without the
on/off switch.

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Gray Dimmers:

If you're looking for gray toggle dimmers, you won't find any. But, you can
get a gray rotary dimmer which fits the same opening as a toggle switch, or
select a clear toggle dimmer as shown here:

Coordinating Switch Plates for Dimmers


Dimmer switch plates are easy to find - rocker and slide dimmers fit decora
rocker plate openings, and the rotary and toggle dimmers fit toggle plates.
These very common plate openings can be found in a variety of combination
switch plates here.

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How Many Types of Dimmer Can You Choose?

How many switches control your light fixture? That’s the first question you’ll
need to ask yourself when choosing a dimmer. Here are the four basic types
for your lights that you can choose from:

Type 1. Single-Pole Dimmer


Single-Pole Dimmer – The single-pole dimmer is designed for light fixtures
that are controlled by only one dimmer in your home. In other words, this
dimmer is the only switch used to turn your lights on and off, as well as to
dim.

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Type 2. Three-way or Four-way Dimmer
Three-way or Four-way Dimmer – These dimmers are for light fixtures that
are controlled by only one dimmer plus one or more on and off switches in
other places in your home.

Type 3. Multi-location Dimmer


Multi-location Dimmer – If your light fixture uses multiple companion
dimmers, you will need a multi-location dimmer. Using multiple dimmers
allows full dimming control from more than one location.

Type 4. Plug-In Dimmer


Plug-In Dimmer – Plug-in dimmers are used to dim the bulb in your table
and floor lamps. Many of these lamp dimmers are compatible with
incandescent, CFL, and LED bulbs

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Mood lighting and ambience

Romantic dinners and soothing baths


can become an everyday event with the mood lighting provided by a dimmer.
There a few domestic dimmer switches available for the homeowner. The
type you choose will depend on your energy requirements and lamp bulb
type. It is important that you choose the right type or you will run the risk of
reducing the life of your lamp.
Dimmer switches are great, not only do they provide opportunity for mood
lighting and ambiance, but also save money due to reduced power usage.
Almost all the lights in your home could be on a dimmer switch, including the
bedrooms, where it would actually serve a great purpose. Having the master
bedroom lights on dimmers would prevent disturbing your significant other
during mornings and the middle of the night — and it will save our eyeballs
the shock of bright light after hours of darkness.
There are many styles to choose from, but the 5 most common types of
dimmers: resistive (leading vs. trailing), inductive, fluorescent-fittings, and
LEDs, are the focus of this week’s tip.
Technically speaking
Mainstream dimmers use phase cutting technology that cuts off sections of
voltage. The root mean square (RMS) of the voltage refers to the total spread.
It is the RMS that phase cutting technology controls. Increasing or
decreasing the RMS voltage brightens or darkens a bulb, respectively.
The part of the sine wave that gets cut off depends on the version of dimmer
switch. Leading edge dimmers cut off the beginning of each half of the wave.
Trailing edge dimmers cut the ends.
Resistive Dimmers
This type of dimmer is designed to control lamps with filaments. Filaments
emit heat and visible light and are a major component of most light bulbs.
Resistive dimmers are rated by the maximum wattage recommended by the
manufacturer. Using this type of dimmer as an inductive one or by
overloading it will cause irreparable damage to the unit.

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Inductive Dimmers
This type of dimmer is designed for light sources using wire wound
components, usually transformers. Inductive dimmers come de-rated to
allow for the rush of the in-current. Because inductive dimmers are used for
light sources with low-lighting, these dimmers must raise the current and
that requires specific properties.
Fluorescent Dimmers
Just as fluorescent light tubes need a ballast for the lamp to operate, the
dimmer requires an analogue 1-10 volt ballast. This gives you smoother
dimming control and reduces radio frequency interference (RFI).
However, combining a dimming system with ballasted lamps is most often
used for linear fluorescent set-ups. Fluorescent lamps don’t use the same type
of dimmer switch as other types of bulbs because the cathodes must maintain
a minimum temperature in order to form and maintain the arc in the tube. A
dimmer switch reduces current and, so, the temperature. Manufacturers have
created complete dimming systems for electronic ballasts.
LED Dimmers
Most dimmers, which were likely designed to work with incandescent light
bulbs, work by cutting off the amount of electricity sent to the bulb. The less
electricity the bulb draws, according to the experts, the dimmer the light.
Remember, there is no direct correlation between LED brightness and
energy drawn.
ELECTRICIAN TRADE SECRETS: Because of their circuitry, LEDs are not
always compatible with traditional dimming switches. In some cases, the
switch must be replaced. Other times, you’ll pay a little more for a compatible
LED.

Motion Detectors and Occupancy Sensors


Motion detectors and occupancy sensors can detect movement and then
cause an event to happen. They are commonly used for security and saving
energy.
When the sensor in a security flood light detects movement, it tells the switch
to close, and light(s) turn on. After a certain amount of time, the switch will
open and light(s) will turn off. Some motion detectors and occupancy sensors
have adjustments including how long light(s) stay on without detecting
movement.

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Occupancy Sensors
Occupancy sensors are commonly used in offices and classrooms. They can
also be used at home in closets if lights are usually left on.
Occupancy sensors can replace light switches, or can be mounted in the
ceiling. They detect motion in the room and control lighting automatically. If
no motion is detected after a certain amount of time, lights turn off. When
someone enters the room, the sensor detects motion, and the sensor’s
switch is closed, turning on the lights.
Lights can be turned on and off manually with a button or switch on the
sensor.
Some occupancy sensors have adjustments including how long light(s) stay
on without detecting movement.
Occupancy Sensor Wiring

Occupancy sensor switch wires each have two black wires, (or one black and
one red) and ground (green).
One of the black line wires connects to 120 V from the panel, the other black
(or red) load wire connects to the light(s). Each black wire can be a line or a
load. Red is always the load wire.
A typical occupancy sensor needs a good ground connection to operate
properly. In a plastic electrical box, connect the sensor’s green ground wire to
the ground wires inside the box. In a metal electrical box with no ground
wires, connect the sensor’s ground wire to the smaller threaded hole inside
the box with a green ground screw.

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Ceiling Mounted Occupancy Sensor

Wall Mounted Occupancy Sensor

Occupancy Sensor Wiring Diagram

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Motion Detectors
Motion detectors can be used for many different applications. When motion
is detected, a light is turned on or an alarm is activated. They can be used
for:
• Security flood lights
• Alarm systems
• Hallways
• Supermarket aisles
• Warehouses (using LEDs with a high lumens rating)
Motion Sensor Light Switch – What you need to know
A Motion Sensor Light Switch is often also referred to as “Occupancy Light
Switch” as well as “Vacancy Light Switch”. But there is a difference between
the two.

An Occupancy Light Switch automatically turns on the lights as soon as


motion is detected in the sensor range and automatically turns the lights off
when the motion is no longer detected in the range .

With a Vacancy Light Switch you still need to manually turn on the lights but
the switch will take care of turning the lights off when the motion sensor no
longer detects any activity.

Lutron and Leviton are renowned companies that are specialized in the area
of occupancy and vacancy sensors in combination with light switches. The
Lutron Maestro is basically the flagship of motion sensor light switches. But
also Belkin’s WeMo portfolio now contains smart motion sensor switches to
control lighting.

Around this technology there even is new market evolving under the term
“Smart Lighting” which refers to energy efficient and automated lighting
systems. These systems should manage their own power cycles based on
conditions like daylight times or occupancy. Not to mention the usual
capabilities like programmable schedules, remote web interfaces or even
smartphone apps.

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Occupancy sensor; What do they do?

Occupancy sensor, Occ sensor, motion sensor. They have various names
but they all do basically the same function.

They monitor a certain area for activity, if there's no activity they shut the
lighting in that area off until needed. If no one is in the area, and lighting is
not required, Occupancy sensors save you money.

They shut the lights off automatically saving you money.

Types of Occupancy Sensors:

Old Technology-Single function

Years ago when these sensors hit the market they were basically a single
technology motion sensor, similar to a security light on the outside of your
house. Todays sensors are huge improvements over the old design,
incorporating both (PIR)infra-red, and ultra-sonic technologies.

Infra-red

Infra-red (PIR)sensors sense the difference in heat emitted by humans in


motion from that of the background space.

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Ultra-sonic

Ultra-sonic sensors detect occupancy through emitting an ultrasonic high-


frequency signal throughout a space, sense the frequency of the reflected
signal, and interpret change in frequency as motion in the space.

New Technology-Dual Function

Dual technology sensors use both PIR and ultrasonic technologies. It only
activates the lights only when both technologies detect the presence of
people.

This virtually eliminates the possibility of false-on, and requiring either one
of the two technologies to hold the lights on. This significantly reduces the
possibility of false-off.

Applications for occupancy Sensors:

Occupancy sensors have a broad range of applications;

▪ They can be designed into new installations


▪ They can be added to existing installations to capitalize on energy savings.

They work great anywhere you have any light technology that utilizes
instant on/off lamps.

From large warehouses to smaller confined areas, occupancy sensors should


be a part of any lighting system.

How Much Do They Save?

The amount of savings you can expect from an occupancy sensor depends
on an estimate of how much the space is occupied.

If the space is occupied 20% of the day, then you have the potential to save
80% of the energy consumption for that day.

The results of your savings will be determined by the application and by


individual location.

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Infrared:

(PIR) or infrared sensors are activated by the movement of a persons body


heat through a zone. The style commonly used mounts in a normal switch
box and usually replaces a standard light switch.

This type of sensor is best used in small enclosed spaces such as a private
office. Typically no extra wiring is needed. The down side of PIR sensors is
they cannot see through windows, walls, or partitions. Occupants must be
in direct site.

Ultrasonic:

Ultrasonic sensors operate on a similar principle to radar. Low frequency


sound patterns are sent out from the sensor into an area, moving objects
altering the signal activate the sensor.

These are best suited where there isn't always a line of site of the room
occupants. A typical application for this type of sensor is restrooms. The
hard surfaces make minor motion detection much easier.

Dual Technology:

Dual technology sensors use both types of technologies. This type of sensor
virtually reduces any false triggering when no one is in the space.

The minor drawback to this type of technology is that it does cost slightly
more.

Motion Sensors and Energy Efficiency:

Motion sensors are a perfect fit for energy efficiency applications. It only
makes sense to turn the lights off in an area that is not occupied at the
time.

What are Motion Sensors and How Do They Work

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The first motion sensor was invented in the year 1950 by Samuel Bango
named as a burglar alarm. He applied the basics of a radar to ultrasonic waves
– a frequency to notice fire or robber and that which human beings cannot
listen to. The Samuel motion sensor is based on the principle of “Doppler
Effect”. Currently, most of the motion sensors work on the principle of Samuel
Bango’s detector. Microwave and infrared sensors used to detect motion by
the changes in the frequencies they produce. To understand the working of
motion sensor, you first need to know the working of a camera. The camera
uses an image sensor and the lens direct light to – when the light strikes the
image sensor each pixel records how much light it’s getting. That outline of
light and dark areas in the pixels becomes the entire video image.
Motion sensors are applicable for security systems which are used in
offices, banks, shopping malls, and also as intruder alarm at home. The
existing motion detectors can stop serious accidents by detecting the persons
who are closest to the sensor. We can monitor motion detectors in public
places. The main part of the motion detector circuit is the dual IR reflective
sensor.

What is a Motion Sensor?

A motion sensor is a device that notices moving objects, mainly people. A


motion sensor is frequently incorporated as a component of a system that
routinely performs a task or else alert a user of motion in a region. These
sensors form a very important component of security, home control, energy
efficiency, automated lighting control, and other helpful systems. The main
principle of motion sensor is to sense a burglar and send an alert to your
control panel, which gives an alert to your monitoring center. Motion sensors
react to different situations like movement in your living room, doors,
windows being unbolt or closed and also these sensors can

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Motion Sensor
• Activate a doorbell when someone comes close to the front door.
• These sensors give you an alert whenever kids enter into some restricted
areas in the home such as medicine cabinet, the basement or workout
room.
• Conserve energy by using this sensor lighting in empty spaces.

Types of Motion Sensors

There various kinds of motion sensors are available in the market, which has
their ups and downs. They are namely PIR, Ultrasonic, Microwave,
Tomographic and combined types.

Types of Motion Sensors

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Passive Infrared (PIR) Sensor
All warm blooded animals produce IR radiation. Passive infrared
sensors include a thin Pyroelectric film material, that responds to IR radiation
by emitting electricity. This sensor will activate burglar alarm whenever this
influx of electricity takes place. These sensors are economical, don’t use more
energy and last forever. These sensors are commonly used in indoor alarms.

Passive Infrared Sensor


Ultrasonic Sensor
Ultrasonic sensor can be active (or) passive, where passive ones pay attention
for particular sounds like metal on metal, glass breaking. These sensors are
very sensitive, but they are frequently expensive and prone to fake alarms.
Active ones generate ultrasonic wave (sound wave) pulses and then determine
the reflection of these waves off a moving object. Animals like cats, dogs,
fishes can hear this sound waves, so an active ultrasonic alarm might unsettle
them.

Ultrasonic Sensor

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Microwave Sensor
These sensors generate microwave pulses and then calculate their reflection
off of objects, in order to know whether objects are moving or not. Microwave
sensors are very sensitive, but sometimes these can be seen in nonmetallic
objects which can be detected moving objects on the outside of the target
range. It consumes a lot of power, so these sensors are frequently designed to
cycle ON & OFF. This makes it feasible to acquire past them, if you know the
cycles. Electronic guard dogs utilize microwave sensors.

Microwave Sensor
Tomographic Sensor
These sensors generate radio waves and detect when those waves are
troubled. They can notice through walls and objects, and are frequently
placed in a way that makes a radio wave net that cover ups large areas. These
sensors are expensive, so they are normally used in warehouses, storage units
and also in other situations that need a commercial level of security.

Tomographic Sensor

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Combined types of Motion Sensors
Some types of motion detectors mix some sensors in order to decrease fake
alarms. But, dual sensors are only activated when both kinds sense motion.
For instance, a dual microwave or PIR sensor will start out on the passive
infrared sensor setting, because that consumes less energy. When the passive
infrared sensor is tripped, the microwave division will turn ON; then, if the
remaining sensor also tripped, the alarm will generate sound. This combined
type is great for neglecting fake alarms, but tuns the possibility of missing
real ones.

Combined types of Motion Sensors


Thus, this is all about the different types of motion sensors which include
Passive Infrared Sensor, Ultrasonic Sensor, Microwave Sensor, Tomographic
Sensor and Combined types. We hope that you have got a better
understanding of this concept. Furthermore, any queries regarding this
concept or to implement sensor based projects, please give your valuable
suggestions by commenting in the comment section below. Here is a question
for you, What are the applications of motion sensors?

Motion Sensors and Detectors with Applications

The foremost intend of motion detection is to sense the presence of human or


any heat emitting object’s movement in a particular region. This is
significantly used for security systems like intruder at the door, ensuring
security in banks, shopping malls, during escalators’ movements, during
loads operations in industries, and sensing the presence of human in the
absence of actual owner.

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Types of Motion Detection

Motion detection can be classified into two ways based on the way in which
the motion is detected. Let us consider an input given to a mobile. When we
mechanically press the buttons/letters of the keypad on a mobile, the letters
get displayed on the mobile screen by detecting the mechanical motion given
as the input. This is considered as Mechanical Motion Detection. Similarly,
input given from the keyboard of a computer also comes under this category.
There are electronic methods by which motion can be detected using the
infrared light and acoustic. This can be termed as Electronic Method for
motion detection.

Motion Detector

The device/sensor that detects the movement of objects especially human


beings or objects emitting heat can be termed as Motion sensor detector.

Motion detectors are classified into two types based on their working strategy:

• Active Motion Sensors


• Passive Motion Sensors

Active Motion Sensors

Active motion sensors continuously emit energy in the form of infrared light
or electrical field in a particular region or certain area. Whenever human
beings or objects with heat or temperature pass through this area, they cause
some disturbances in the temperature, which can be detected by the motion
sensor.

The active-motion sensors consist of both emitter and reflection detection


circuits, but these consume more amount of energy than the passive motion
detectors. Active motion detectors can be categorized into three types:
microwave, tomographic and ultrasonic motion sensors.

1. Microwave Sensors

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Microwave Sensors

The microwaves are emitted from a sensor and are reflected back after hitting
a moving object or human being, and then detected by this type of sensor.
The frequency at which the waves emitted will be differed if the waves get
reflected from any moving object. The entries operation is then recorded for
performing comparison. The working of this sensor is similar to the working
of a Radar speed gun based on the Doppler Effect.

Applications of Microwave Sensors

• To monitor the motion of the conveyor belts in industries


• To investigate the flow of products in pipelines
• To indicate the presence of products on conveyor belts

2. Ultrasonic Sensors

Ultrasonic Sensors

Similar to a microwave sensor, an ultrasonic sensor emits sound waves with


high frequency which is comparable to an audible-frequency range, so these
sound waves are inaudible to the human ear. Here also the entries are

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recorded for later comparison. The frequency of waves are reflected to the
sensor if any moving object is noticed, and due to this, an electric pulse is
generated by a transducer which in turn activates the sensor circuit to sense
the object’s movement.

Applications of Ultrasonic Sensors

• Ultrasonic sensors are used as alarm system at home to guard safes.


• Ultrasonic sensors are used for triggering security camera at home and
for wildlife photography.
• Ultrasonic sensors are used for detecting the type of material by
absorbing sound measurement.

3. Tomographic sensors

Tomographic Sensor

The tomographic sensors surround an area with the multiple nodes in that
area communicating with each other with radio waves at a frequency of about
2.4GHz. The motion of an object can be detected by disturbances occurring
on a mesh network. As these sensors don’t rely on the line of sight, they can
be used for detecting motion even in hidden areas of up to 5000 square feet.
If any disturbance is identified in a mesh network, then the sensor will
activate the motion sensor alarm.

Applications of Tomographic Sensor

• Tomographic sensors are used for automation and security in homes or


for security intended places.

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• Tomographic sensors are very much effective even in dirty and cluttered
environments also.
• Tomographic sensors are used to protect high value asset areas like
banks where there is a chance of failure of other motion sensors due to
hidden motions.

Passive Motion Sensors

The passive sensors don’t emit any radiation; instead, these sensors absorb
energy for sensing the motion of the objects or human in their coverage area.
Hence, these passive sensors consume less energy than the active sensors.

1. Passive Infrared Sensor (PIR)

Every human or object having temperature emits infrared radiation.


Whenever an object or human having temperature passes through the region
covered by the PIR sensor, then the infrared radiations emitted by the object
are absorbed by the sensor and certain electrical signal get generated to sense
the motion and it is totally different from temperature sensor.

Passive Infrared (PIR) Sensor

PIR sensor is a pyroelectric sensor, and the sensor is divided into two halves
such that whenever any moving object emits infrared radiation, each half
cancels the other half if both the halves have the same IR radiation – then,
the sensors do not sense, but if it finds any more or less IR radiation, then
the PIR sensor senses. There are different PIR sensors available with different
ranges of covering area.

The only limitation is that it cannot detect stationary or very slow motion
objects.

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Applications of PIR sensor

Used mostly for indoor or outdoor lighting applications Used for security
applications Used for counting of human/objects in a room

2. Dual-technology Motion Sensors

Dual-technology Motion Sensors

Apart from the active and passive sensors, the advancement in motion-sensor
technology has developed the dual technology sensors, which are
combinations of different motion sensing techniques to develop a Motion
sensor and to reduce the false triggering of the sensor. The earlier motion
sensors that have been discussed in this article may fail in some cases like
the PIR sensor can be false triggered by heat and light change without the
actual motion of the object.

Similarly, the microwave sensors can also be false triggered if anything is


making the motion to be sensed by the sensor to get activated. Therefore, to
avoid such shortcomings, we can use a combination of sensors like PIR and
Microwave sensors for better efficiency.

Here, by using both the sensors together, even the PIR sensor can be triggered
because of the heat or light change without involving the motion of an object,
but the microwave sensor does not get activated, and therefore, the motion
sensor switch cannot be triggered. Similarly, even if the microwave sensor
gets trigged by tree, but the PIR sensor does not get triggered, then the motion
sensor switch cannot be triggered by a combined sensor.

Applications of Dual technology sensors

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• Used for bank security systems and very high security intended places.
• Used as outdoor motion detectors to trigger a motion sensor alarm.
• Used for border security regions and dangerous places where accurate
motion detection is intended.

Practical examples of both the active and passive motion detector sensors are
given below.

Example 1: Liquid Level Controller using Ultrasonic Sensors

The below figure shows how an ultrasonic sensor works for controlling the
liquid levels in a tank by operating a motor by sensing predefined limits of the
liquid. When the liquid in the tank reaches lower and upper limits, then the
ultrasonic sensor detects this and sends the signals to the microcontroller.
The Microcontroller is programmed in such a way that it operates relay for
driving the motor pump based on the limit condition signals from the
ultrasonic sensor.

Liquid Level Controller using Ultrasonic Sensors

Example2: Automatic Door Opening System Using PIR sensor

Similar to the above system, a PIR sensor detects the presence of humans to
perform door operations, i.e., opening and closing. As we have discussed
above, a PIR sensor detects the presence of humans alone and enables the
microcontroller pins when motion is detected. Depending on the signals from
the PIR sensor, the microcontroller operates the door by operating the
motor in forward and reverse rotation modes with the help of a driver IC.

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Automatic Door Opening System Using PIR sensor

This is a brief description regarding the motion sensors and their applications
with some practical examples of motion detectors. If you still intend to know
more regarding these motion sensors or any other wireless sensor
networks you can post your queries by commenting below.

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Self-Check 3.1-6

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Answer Key 3.1-6

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Information Sheet 3.1-7
Outlets and Receptacles

Learning Objectives:
After reading this Information Sheet, you must be able to:
1. Explain the purposes of outlets and receptacles
2. Differentiate the types of outlets and receptacles

Introduction:
To the unobservant eye, all types of electrical outlets are identical.
Rectangular shape, screw in the center, two faces with uneven eyes and a
downturned mouth. Sound familiar? But if you take a look around, you’ll
notice slight variations. There are several types of electrical outlets commonly
seen in the country. Some are outdated, some have special purposes, and
some have been adapted to include safety features. While you probably have
been using electrical outlets safely all along, there’s no harm in learning a
little more about the various types of electrical outlets.

An outlet is a point in the wiring system at which current is taken to


supply utilization equipment. In a simple term, an outlet is any point that
supplies an electric load. An outlet usually consists of a small metal or non-
metal box into which a raceway and or cable ends.

Different kinds of outlet


1. Convenience outlet or attachment cap.
2. Lighting outlet.
3. Receptacles outlet

A Convenience outlet or attachment cap is a device that by insertion into a


receptacle establishes connection between the conductor of the flexible cord
and the conductors connected permanently to the receptacle.

Wall Outlet. The common wall outlet is called convenience outlet. And to call
it wall plug is not correct. A Plug is another name for the attachment cap on
the wire coming from a device such lamps or appliances.

Lighting Outlet is an outlet intended for direct connection to a lamp holder,


lighting fixture, or a pendant cord, terminating. in a lamp holder.

Receptacle Outlet is an outlet where one or more receptacles are installed.

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Receptacle. A receptacle is a contact device installed at the outlet for the
connection of an attachment plug. A single receptacle is a single contact
device with no other contact device on the same yoke. A multiple receptacle
is two or more contact devices on the same yoke.

Convenience Outlet or Receptacle


A contact device installed at an outlet (the point on an electrical wiring
system at which current is taken to supply utilization equipment) for the
connection of a portable lamp or appliance by means of a plug and flexible
cord. A duplex receptacle contains 2 convenience outlets and a triplex
receptacle, 3 outlets.
A multiple outlet assembly may be either a surface raceway with built-
in outlets at regular intervals or an ’'electrostrip,” a surface raceway which
permits connection of an appliance at any point.
Special purpose receptacles include weatherproof outlets with
protective caps; locking-type outlets to prevent plugs from becoming
accidentally detached; and heavy-duty outlets designed to serve ranges,
clothes dryers, power tools, etc.
Types of Outlets

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The types of outlets can be determined by its style and the plug to be
inserted on it. Commonly used outlets vary from country to country. There
are almost 20 different socket outlets being used throughout the whole world
today. This will explain why an imported electric product from a country that
has a different standard socket outlet will not match your country’s standard
socket outlet.
In the Philippines, there are different types. By the end of this
information sheet you will be acquainted with them so that next time, when
you’re buying an imported electric appliance, you can discern whether or not
the outlets in your house can welcome them without the need for adaptors.

Universal. This type of socket outlet will accept most kinds of plugs. It can
accept Type A, or the most common one with two parallel blades, Type B, or
the plug with two parallel blades with a circular ground a little above the
middle of the two blades, and Type C, with two roundish, circular pins. Most
adaptors have their receiving end with this type of socket because it accepts
plenty of kinds of plugs. Having most of your electrical socket outlets as this
is very convenient.

Parallel with ground. Also called the Type B electrical outlet, this type of
socket outlet includes two blades with a ground in the middle. This is

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especially useful if you use a laptop charger. Although more common, this
socket outlet is not as universal. You can only fit a Type B or a Type A plug.

Parallel flat blades. It’s also called Type A. This is the single most common
socket outlet in this country, but unfortunately, it’s also the most exclusive.
It’s for this reason that you buy adaptors – since Type A sockets can only
accept one kind of plug.

Round to flat outlet. This outlet is more common than the parallel with
ground, but it’s less common than the parallel flat one. This outlet will accept
Type A as well as Type C – two round pins. This also offers quite a convenience
since it accepts two types of plugs. That means that you won’t need an
adaptor.

Three-pin rectangular. Officially labeled as Type G, this is the kind of outlet


that is usually needed by air conditioning units. This is very exclusive and is

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of British origin. However, most households or buildings that use air
conditioning units in this country have that one outlet just for the air
conditioner. Sometimes, not even adaptors can accept a Type G plug, that’s
why a special socket is needed.
Special purpose outlet is an outlet used for purposes other than ordinary
lighting and power, usually fused separately. Most commonly used for rangers
or clothes dryers.

GFCI outlets

A ground fault circuit interrupter, or GFCI for short, is meant to quickly shut
off an outlet’s power when it detects a short circuit or ground fault. Normal
electrical flow happens when the current comes through the hot wire and
returns back through the neutral wire, but if electricity flows beyond that, the
GFCI outlet will trip.

Basically, if you’re using a fault hair dryer, for example, and your feet are wet,
a short circuit from the hair dryer can cause the current to pass through you,
to your wet feet, and into the ground, electrocuting you. A GFCI outlet kills

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power before the current can remotely escape the hair dryer. Understandably,
these outlets are pretty much guaranteed to be found in houses nearby water
sources.

GFCI outlets are typically more expensive than regular outlets, but are
required to be installed in locations such as kitchens and bathrooms.

AFCI outlets

Though it’s not as well-known as a GFCI outlet, an AFCI outlet looks very
similar. Short for “arc fault circuit interrupter,” it protects from arcs, which
happen when electricity jumps from one wire to another, which can result in
a fire.

Any modern house built after 1999 should have AFCI circuit breakers
installed at the circuit breaker box. If you live in an older house, you can
install the outlets at the beginning of every circuit, which will protect all
outlets following in that circuit.

There are no requirements to add AFCI protection to existing circuits in older


homes, but if you plan on building an addition to your house and need more
circuits, they must be AFCI protected and up to code.

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USB Outlets
Finally, you may soon start to see standard outlets fitted with two extra
holes—USB charging ports. These USB outlets allow homeowners to plug in
items that are charged using a USB connector, like cell phones and MP3
players. They’re very convenient if you’re not near a computer, but they’re still
quite rare.

Countries which are using the types of outlets

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Self-Check 3.1-7

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Answer Key 3.1-7

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Information Sheet 3.1-8
Safety Procedures in Wiring Devices

Learning Objectives:
After reading this Information Sheet, you must be able to:
1. Familiarize the safety procedures in wiring devices.
2. Select correct PPE in line with safety requirements.
3. Demonstrate the safety procedures in wiring devices.

This section covers the safety procedures you need to observe when
installing floor and GFCI outlets. The PPE is also included here.

What is Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)?


➢ Personal Protective Equipment, or PPE, includes a variety of
devices and garments to protect trainees/workers from injuries.

Personal Protective Equipment or PPE is/are designed to protect:


* Eyes – goggles / face shields, safety glasses,
* Face – face shield / protective shields / barriers,
* Head – hard hat / bump hat,
* Ears – earplugs / earmuffs,
* Feet – safety shoes / boots
* Hands and arms – gloves / sleeve guards, and
* Protective clothing – vests / safety suits / safety jackets.

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* Body – Shields / barriers / restraints
* Airways / lungs – Respiratory devices.

Why is/are PPE needed?


1. It is needed when the work environment presents a hazard or is likely
to present a hazard to any part of their body; or
2. It is needed when the work processes present a hazard or are likely to
present a hazard to any part of their bodies; or
3. It is needed during the work, when might come into contact with
hazardous chemicals, radiation, or mechanical irritants; and
4. It is needed when you are unable to eliminate the exposure or
potential exposure to the hazard by engineering, work practice, or
administrative control.

Types of Personal Protective Equipment


1. Eye and Face Protection : Eye and Face protection is required
whenever there is danger of injury to the eyes or face from electric
arcs or flashes or from flying objects resulting from electrical
explosion.

a. Safety Glasses /Goggles: This will protect your eyes from electric
arcs/spark.
Always wear safety goggles to protect your eyes in any
activity involving chemicals, arc, sparks, flames or
heating, or the possibility of broken glassware or flying
objects

b. Face Shields: This will protect your whole face for any electric
arcs/sparks.

Remember: If using face shield for arc flash protection


be sure to check the standards

2. Hand Protection : Insulated Gloves will protect your hand from any
live exposure

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Protector gloves must be worn over insulating
gloves, except for Class 0 gloves, under limited-
use conditions, where small equipment and parts
manipulation necessitate unusually high finger
dexterity

FAST FACT: Do not use leather protectors alone for protection


against electric shock. Serious injury or death could result.
Always use proper rubber insulating gloves.

3. Body Protection /Arc Rated Coveralls: This will protect the body
from any harm cause by any electrical hazards.

4. Respiratory Protection : This will protect the respiratory system for


any harmful gases
5. Hearing Protection : this will protect the ears for too much noise of
any moving or working machines
6. Occupational Head Protection or the Helmet

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7. Protective Footwear/Foot Protection:
Wear proper shoes, not sandals or open toed shoes, in work areas where
chemicals are used or stored. Perforated shoes, sandals or cloth sneakers
should not be worn in areas where mechanical work is being done.
Safety shoes are required for protection against injury from heavy
falling objects (handling of objects weighing more than fifteen pounds
which, if dropped, would likely result in a foot injury), against crushing by
rolling objects (warehouse, loading docks, etc), and against laceration or
penetration by sharp objects.

Electrical shock resistant (EH) footwear


is manufactured with non-conductive
electrical shock resistant soles and
heels.

The primary methods for preventing trainees/workers exposure to


hazardous materials are engineering and administrative controls. Where
these control methods are not appropriate or sufficient to control the
hazard, personal protective equipment (PPE) is required.

A work area assessment is required to determine the potential hazards


and select the appropriate PPE for adequate protection. Trainees/students
must receive training which includes the proper PPE for their job, when this
PPE must be worn, how to wear, adjust, maintain, and discard this
equipment, and the limitations of the PPE. All training must be documented

For each type of wiring devices in this learning outcome, you will be
introduced to important information about the safety procedures in wiring
devices in this section.

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Construction workers and particularly electricians do receive electric
shocks, usually as a result of carelessness or unforeseen circumstances. As
an electrician working on electrical equipment you must always make sure
that the equipment is switched off or electrically isolated before commencing
work. Every circuit must be provided with a means of isolation (IEE
Regulation 132.15). When working on portable equipment or desk top units
it is often simply a matter of unplugging the equipment from the adjacent
supply.
Electric shock occurs when a person becomes part of the electrical
circuit. The level or intensity of the shock will depend upon many factors,
such as age, fitness and the circumstances in which shock is received. The
lethal level is approximately 50mA, above which muscles contract, the heart
flutters and breathing stops. A shock above the 50mA level is therefore lethal
unless the person is quickly separated from the supply. Below 50mA only an
unpleasant tingling sensation may be experienced or you may be thrown
across a room or shocked enough to fall from a roof or ladder, but the resulting
fall may lead to serious injury.
Turn off the circuit breaker or unscrew the fuse that controls the circuit
you've chosen. If your light fixture box is like ours, just turn on the light and
have a helper watch it as you switch off the circuit breakers one at a time
until the light goes out. Leave this circuit breaker switched off.
If the electrical junction box you've picked doesn't have a light fixture,
you'll have to use a voltage tester to determine which circuit breaker or fuse
to turn off. This process can be complex. If you don't have electrical experience
nor are unsure how to do this, don't hesitate to enlist the help of a licensed
electrician.
Some electrical boxes contain more than one circuit. Before doing any
work in the box, test all the wires in a box with a simple neon voltage
tester to make sure they're “dead.” Do not continue until you find and
turn off the correct circuit breaker.

A. FLOOR OUTLETS
The National Electrical Code requires floor outlets to be a part of an
approved assembly consisting of a metal box, gasket seal, special receptacle
and strong cover plate with a moisture-proof cover. You can't just mount a
regular wall outlet in the floor. The first time someone stepped on it, it would
break. Besides, mopping a floor around an outlet that doesn't have a
moisture-proof cover could cause corroded connections, or worse, give you a
lethal shock.
You can put a floor outlet anywhere, but getting the cable there can be
tough. So keep routing problems in mind when you choose a location.

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The electrical code requires two additional steps to ensure safety:

1. Determine if the circuit you want to use can handle the additional outlet
without overloading. Do this by shutting off the circuit at the main
panel. Then go through the house turning on lights and other electrical
items. Add up the wattage for everything that doesn't go on, including
things that are normally plugged in, such as stereos and televisions.
Then add the wattage of the lamp you'll be plugging into the floor outlet.
The National Electrical Code (NEC) allows a total of 1,800 watts for a
15-amp circuit; 2,400 for a 20-amp circuit. The amp rating of the circuit
is printed on the circuit breaker or fuse. If the total wattage exceeds
these amounts, you'll have to find a new circuit. Also, as a rule of
thumb, don't use a circuit if it has any device drawing more than 7.5
amps either plugged in or directly wired to it.
2. To figure out if there's enough space in the box for the minimum box
size required by the NEC, add: 1 for each hot and neutral wire entering
the box, 1 for all the ground wires combined, 1 for all the clamps
combined, and 2 for each device (switch or receptacle) installed in the
box. Multiply this figure by 2 for 14-gauge wire and 2.25 for 12-gauge
wire to get the minimum box volume in cubic inches. Plastic boxes have
their volume stamped inside. Steel box capacities are listed in the
electrical code.

B. GFCI OUTLETS

Testing Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupters


Due to the complexity of a GFCI, it is necessary to test the device on a
regular basis. For permanently wired devices, a monthly test is recommended.
Portable type GFCI's should be tested each time before use. GFCI's have a
built-in test circuit which imposes an artificial ground fault on the load circuit
to assure that the ground-fault protection is still functioning. Test and reset
buttons are provided for testing. More of GFCI concepts are on the next
information sheet.

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Self – Check 3.1-8
Matching Type: Match the PPE on Column A with that on the body parts on
Column B which needs PPE. Write the letter of your answer on the space
provided before the number.

COLUMN A COLUMN B
_____ 1. Goggles / face shields, safety glasses A. Eyes

B. Face
_____ 2. Face shield / protective shields / barriers
C. Head

_____ 3. Hard hat / bump hat D. Ears

E. Feet
_____ 4. Earplugs / earmuffs
F. Hands
and arms
_____ 5. Safety shoes / boots
G. Protective
_____ 6. Gloves / sleeve guards clothing

H. Body
_____ 7. Protective clothing – vests / safety suits
/safety jackets. I. Airways

_____8. Shields / barriers / restraints

_____9.Respiratory devices

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Answer Key 3.1-8
1. A
2. B
3. C
4. D
5. E
6. F
7. G
8. H
9. I

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Answer Key 3.1-8

1. T
2. F
3. T
4. T
5. T

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6. REFERENCES:
Books
• OSHA Office of Training and Education, Subpart GFCI, Electrical
• OSHA General Industry Standards, Subpart S, Electrical
• Trevor Linsley , Subpart Application of Health and Safety and Electrical
Principles, Basic Electrical Installation Work
• UL 943, National Electrical Code
• Article 2.10, Philippine Electrical Code
• Electrical Layout and Estimate by Fajardo
Websites
• http://ecmweb.com/content/guidelines-wiring-device-application-
designs
• http://www.safeelectricity.org/information-center/library-of-
articles/55-home-safety/317-ground-fault-circuit-interrupters-gfcis
• http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/skills-and-know-how/electrical-
and-wiring/install-a-gfci-outlet
• http://www.familyhandyman.com/electrical/wiring-outlets/how-to-
install-a-floor-outlet/view-all
• http://spyrkaelectric.com/floor-outlet-installation-floor-outlets-
home/
• http://encyclopedia2.thefreedictionary.com/wiring+device
• http://electriciantraining.tpub.com/14175/css/Types-Of-Circuit-
Control-Devices-131.htm
• http://www.electronicshub.org/switches/
• https://www.electricaltechnology.org/2014/11/types-of-switches-
electrical.html
• http://www.electrical101.com/switches.html
• https://www.thespruce.com/three-way-switches-1152391
• https://www.graybar.com/applications/lighting/controls/types
• https://blog.1000bulbs.com/home/how-to-choose-a-dimmer-four-
factors-to-consider
• http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Education-
Training/Pages/LCE/DimmingBasics.aspx
• http://www.ledwatcher.com/what-are-light-dimmers-and-which-type-
of-light-bulbs-are-dimmable/
• http://kyleswitchplates.blogspot.com/2016/01/guide-to-light-
dimmers-dimmer-switch.html
• http://www.liteharbor.com/resources/light-knowledge/95_How-
Many-Types-of-Dimmer-Can-You-Choose.html
• http://www.ebay.com/gds/How-To-Install-a-Photocell-
/10000000205668143/g.html

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• http://www.electricalengineeringtoolbox.com/2017/01/how-to-
install-and-wire-photocell.html
• http://buildyoursmarthome.co/home-automation/hardware/motion-
sensor-light-switch/
• http://www.hoveyelectric.com/hovey-electric-power-
blog/bid/62067/How-to-Find-Energy-Efficiency-Savings-from-
Occupancy-Sensors
• https://www.elprocus.com/working-of-different-types-of-motion-
sensors/
• https://www.efxkits.co.uk/motion-sensors-detectors-with-
applications/

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