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Applique

Sewing a piece of fabric atop another after folding under a small bit of the fabric to create
a clean edge. When done by machine, many use a satin stitch (tight zig zag). By hand,
blind stitching is often used.

Backstitch

Used at the beginning and end of a machine sewn seam to anchor the seam in place; it
involves a couple of extra stitches back and forth.

Ballpoint needle

Ballpoint needles are designed to penetrate knit fabrics without nicking or damaging the
fabric.

Bar tack

A group of closely sewn stitchs (back and forth from side to side a la zig zag) that is used
to tack a belt loop or similar item in place. This is not a basting stitch and should be
repeated several times on the machine to make a very short run of satin stitching.

Baste/basting

Temporary stitching used to hold a sewing project in place and is removed when the
permanent sewing is done.

Batting

Fiberfill, cotton, wool, or other material that is flattened and usually on a roll and
purchased in precut lengths or by the yard. Uses of batting range from filling for
placemats or vests to quilts.

Bias

Runs diagonally to the straight grain of the fabric. This is the stretchiest part on the
fabric.

Bias tape
Strips of fabric cut on the bias, often turned under and pressed, and used for bindings,
facings, or other application where there is a need for stretch or accomodation to curves.

Binding (blanket, quilt, seam etc.)

Encasing the raw edges of a blanket or quilt with another piece of fabric. Binding also
refers to the fabric that is folded and used for the encasing of the raw edges.

Blade

The round, razor sharp portion of a rotary cutter. Also, the cutter used on a serger.

Blanket stitch

Used to neaten the edge of a buttonhole, blanket, vest edge, or other seamline. A blanket
stitch can be done by hand or machine.

Blind hem stitch

Sewing stitch that is not meant to be seen on the right side of the fabric, usually
accomplished by picking up one thread of the fabric at a time rather than going through
the full fabric or several threads before completing a hand stitch or machine stitch. Many
sewing machines come with a blind hem attachment and the manual is the best guide for
how to use it and produce virtually invisible hems.

Bobbin

The piece of your sewing machine that holds the bottom thread (the bobbin thread) and is
placed in the bobbin case. It generally is under the area the needle penetrates and it loops
with the needle thread to form a locked stitch.

Bodkin

A tool used to insert elastic, cording, etc. through a casing.

Blanket stitch

Used to neaten the edge of a buttonhole, blanket, vest edge, or other seamline. A blanket
stitch can be done by hand or machine.

Bolt

A large roll of fabric which can be on a tubular roll or a rectangular form. Fabric is
usually folded right sides together lengthwise on a bolt.

Buckram
Strong, heavy woven fabric used for stiffening baseball cap brims and some drapery
applications.

Butting

Bringing two edges together so they touch but do not overlap.

Buttonhole

A bound slit in the fabric to allow the passage of a button for closure. Buttonholes are
mostly made by machine these days, but many people do still prefer to make them by
hand, using a special buttonhole stitch.

Casing

Fabric envelope of sorts for encasing elastic, a drawstring, or similar material, usually
along a waistline, cuff, hem. Elastic waist slacks have a casing into which the elastic is
woven. Sweat pants have a turned up casing into through which elastic is encased (if
there are not ribbed cuffs).

Chalk

Used to mark fabric pleats, darts, diamonds, buttonholes, and other cutting or
constructing lines and designs.

Clean finish (or finish)

Finishing a seam with zig-zag stitching, turning under and pressing, pinking shears, etc.
Gives the seam a “clean” finish.

Clip (curve)

Methods vary from person to person, but to clip a curve keep in mind that an outside
curve (shaped like an upside down U) needs to be clipped to within a breath of the seam
line. An inside curve (shaped like a right side up U) can be either clipped or you can cut
very small notches (V shape) out of the curve itself in order to have it lay flat and not
make bunches when the project or garment is done. If you use a serger to finish your
seams, clipping is not an issue.

Cording
A twisted or woven “rope” or “string” that is used primarily in piping and to act as a
drawstring in a jacket hood, waistband, or as stabilizer for frog closures. Cording is
covered with bias strips of fabric when used for most decorative applications (such as
edging a pillow). Other decorative effects can be achieved by zig-zagging over cording
on a fabric for a raised design.

Covered button

A button covered with coordinating or same fabric as the garment for which it is being
made. Kits are available for this effect or creative and careful application of fabric, fabric
glue and shank buttons can be used.

Cutting line

On a pattern, the outermost dark line is the line upon which you cut. Traditions vary;
some people cut through the center of this line, others cut just to the outside of this line.

Dart

A V shaped, tapered adjustment to a pattern to allow for more fullness in the bust area or
less fullness in other areas (waist)

Duct Tape Double (DTD)

A body form made out of primarily duct tape and other materials that conforms exactly to
one’s body because the tape is wound around the body and then removed as a whole.

Ease

A way of sewing a length of fabric into a bit of a smaller space without resulting in
gathers or puckers.

Edgestitch

A stitch done a scant 1/8″ from the folded or seamed edge.

Embellish
Adding special stitching, appliques, charms, or other decorations to your sewing project

Entredeux

French word meaning “between two”. Often it’s a piece of lightweight fabric joined to
another piece of lightweight fabric with a delicate bit of lace. Another method is to join
two ribbons with a piece of lace.

Facing

Fabric sewn on the raw edge of a garment piece that is turned under and serves as a finish
for the edge as well.

Fat quarter

Prior a quilting term, but often used for wearable art, vests, smaller garments, a fat
quarter is 1/4 yard of fabric, about 18″ x 22″ as opposed to a regular 1/4 yard, which is 9″
x 45″. Fat quarters allow quick and colorful stash building.

Feed dog

The “teeth” under the plate on the sewing machine that move fabric as it is sewn.

Finger press/ing

Using your fingers and pressure to open a seam that may not be suitable for pressing.

Finish (an edge)

Turn under 1/4″ and stitch, serge the edge, or other method of finishing the edge so it
doesn’t ravel or cause a bulky problem.

Flat felled seam

A seam created by sewing fabric wrong sides together, trimming one of the seam
allowances close to the seam, then turning the other seam allowance under and stitching
it over the prior trimmed seam allowance. This is often used for reinforcing seams on
pajamas or to reduce bulk in a seam.

Fold line
Many pattern pieces are placed on the fold of a piece of fabric. This is the actual fold of
the fabric off the bolt or a fold of your own creation; the goal is to have a pattern piece
that is cut out without a center seam.

Fusible (webbing, interfacing, etc.)

Has the characteristic of being able to be ironed on, usually permanently, with or without
reinforcement by stitching, due to a heat-activated “glue” on one side.

Gather

Gathering allows for making a long piece of fabric to fit with a shorter piece of fabric and
also is a method of easing a seam to allow insertion of sleeves and other rounded pattern
pieces. When making an apron, there is a waistband that is the size of the person’s waist,
plus some extra for tying the apron around the body. The apron itself usually is gathered,
fluffy, almost pleated and has more fabric that flows from the waistband. The apron seam
was gathered and then sewn to the waistline. To gather the seam, two parallel lines are
sewn on the right side of the fabric, a scant 1/4″ apart. Long tails of thread are left for
gathering. The bobbin threads (on the wrong side of the fabric) are held on either end of
the seam and gently tugged, gathering the fabric evenly on the threads. Do not scrimp and
only sew one thread of long length stitches; you will need both.

Grading (seams)

Trimming raw edges in graduate widths to reduce bulk. The narrowest seam edge should
be closest to the body, as a general rule.

Grain

Direction of the fabric that runs parallel to the selvage (a stretchier grain is found running
perpendicular to the selvage). Commercial patterns have an arrow on them <—–>
indicating direction of the grain to assit in laying out the pattern pieces correctly.

Gusset

Hem
Fabric that it turned up on the lower edge of a garment or sleeve to provide a finished
edge. Often extra fabric is left in the hem with children’s clothing to allow for growth
(especially skirts and slacks).

Hong Kong finish

Enclosing a seam with bias binding.

Hook & eye closure

A type of closure that employs a small hook on one side and a loop made of fabric or
metal on the other. The hook and eye is used at the upper back of many dresses and often
on lingerie.

Inseam

Seam inside the leg of pants that runs from the crotch to the hem.

Interfacing

Fabric used between layers of fabric to provide stabilization and form. Usually used in
collars, cuffs, plackets, some waistbands and pockets, and facings.

Iron

An iron is a tool that is used to straighten or press fabric. The iron can be used with or
without steam. It is a very important tool for the sewing room.

Ironing

Ironing is done by moving the iron back and forth over fabric. Ironing is generally not
utilized when sewing. See “press”.

Jean jumper

A small piece of plastic made to ease sewing seams on denim by holding the presser foot
up ever so slightly. Allows the presser foot to “jump” the seam as if it was level with the
rest of the denim. Works well with all thick fabrics.
K

Lining

Used to finish the inside of a garment, to hide the seam construction, to allow for ease of
putting a garment on or taking it off, and to provide decorative effect. A lining is cut of
the same pattern pieces as the garment and often is made of “slippery” fabrics. It provides
a minimal amount of warmth and usually extends the life of a garment. Linings should be
washable if the garment is washable and should be prewashed.

Machine embroidery

Decorative stitching created by using a regular sewing machine (zig zag, satin stitch, etc.)
or a sewing machine specifically designed for machine embroidery. Combo machines are
avaiable as well.

Miter

Mitering a corner makes a smooth, tidy finish to a 90-degree corner, neatly squaring the
corners while creating a diagonal seam from the point of the corner to the inside edge.
Mitering is used for quilts corners, craft projects, some vests and jackets, and sometimes
on collars.

Muslin

A generally inexpensive woven fabric used to make crafts, back quilts, or to make draft
or trial garments.

Nap

Nap is the “fuzzy” part of a fabric that is usually directional in nature. Corderoy and
velvet are good examples of fabric which has a nap or a pile. If smoothed with the hand
in one direction, nap is typically shiny in one direction and not shiny in the other. When
cutting out a pattern, care should be taken to keep fabric pieces going in the same
direction nap-wise unless one is intentionally mixing naps and piles to produce a
different kind of look. See “pile”.

Needle

Sewing machine needles come in a variety of sizes and types – ball point and sharps are
the two major categories. Ball point is used for knits and regular sharp needles are used
for nonstretch fabrics. There are also all purpose needles, but it is recommended that you
use ball point or regular rather than all purpose. There are wing needles, wedge needles,
needles of varying sizes and shapes, as well as twin needles for some fancier stitching.

Notch

Usually, the notch is shown on a pattern with a dark diamond. They are commonly cut
outward and should be matched on seams when joining for sewing.

Notion

A term used for any item used for sewing other than the fabric and the machine.

Overlock

An overcast stitch to prevent ravelling of fabric. There are sewing machines made to do
overlock stitching. See “serger”.

Overcasting, overstiching

Stitching done over a seam to prevent ravelling. This can be done by hand or machine.

Pattern weights

Weights used on paper patterns instead of pinning a pattern to the fabric.

Pile

See “nap”.
Pinking shears

Shears with a V shape along the cutting edge used to cut fabric and have it remain
essentially ravel-free.

Pins

Pins are used for temporary basting of fabric. They are used to hold patterns in place
while cutting and to hold fabrics together while stitching (it is not recommended to
machine sew over pins as they have been known to break your sewing machine needle,
jam the machine, or cause other problems). Often, large safety pins are used to baste quilt
layers before the final quilting. Care should be taken to use a pin that will not leave a
large hole and to not leave pins in fabric too long; they could cause stains where they
touch the fabric.

Pintuck

Narrow sewn rows of fabric that give a decorative raised look to a garment. Some
bloused are made with pin tucking on the bodice for a more tailored look.

Piping

A cord covered with fabric, often used for decorative edging on garments or projects.

Pivot

To leave the needle in fabric, raise the presserfoot and turn the fabric at a 45 degree angle.
Then lower the presserfoot and start sewing. Used to sew square seams. (Thanks to
Beth!)

Placket

A V-shaped opening at the end of a sleeve that is finished with a bias strip before the cuff
is attached.

Pleat

A fold in fabric that is either inverted or folded outward, is not sewn except on the top
edge (as in a skirt or slacks waistband), and provides decorative or functional fullness.

Press

Using an iron in a press/pick up/move/press/… pattern. Pressing is not moving back and
forth on fabric with the iron. Pressing is done “as you go” while creating a garment.

Presser foot
The part of the sewing machine that holds the fabric in place as it is being sewn and fed
through by the feed dogs. Specialty feet such as zig zag, buttonhole, cording, blind hem,
and others are often included with a sewing machine upon purchase and are best learned
by consulting the sewing machine manual.

Prick stitch

You use prick stitching on fabrics such as velvet where everything shows. Take a small
backstitch sewn on the right side of the fabric and do the remaining backstitching on the
wrong side.

Ravel/Ravelling

Making or allowing the edge of a fabric to get a fringed look by having threads come
loose either on their own via wearing and washing or by stitching a tight seam a distance
from the raw edge and pulling threads.

Raw (edge)

The edge of fabric that is not stitched or finished.

Right side

The right side of the fabric is the design side. There are instances of fabric with no right
or wrong side visible, and the determination and appropriate markings are then made by
the person doing the pattern cutting and sewing.

Rotary cutter

Early versions of the rotary cutter looked like pizza cutters. Today, the handles are often
ergonomically designed and padded. The blade, though, remains a rounded razor,
sometimes with pinked edging or other designs. These are great for cutting layers of
fabric into straight strips. Many people are using them for curved lines and pattern cutting
for garments as well.

Running stitch
A simple stitch made by running the thread over and under the fabric. This stitch is often
used for basting or as the basis (marking) for another more decorative stitch.

Satin stitch

A very tight zig zag stitch that is available on most sewing machines. If it is not
automatically available, the stitch length can be set to almost 0 to achieve a satin stitch
with a plain zig zag machine.

Seam

The result when two pieces of fabric are sewn together along a line.

Seam allowance

The fabric between the edge of the fabric and the line of stitching, about 5/8″ for most
patterns. (Craft patterns often allow 1/4″ seam allowance.)

Selvedge, selvege, selvage

Often marked with information from the manufacturer (color code, identifying data, etc.),
this is the edge of the fabric which generally does not fray due to manufacturer’s finish.
In most cases, this edge should not be included when you cut your fabric, as it may cause
puckering of your seam later. on.

Separating zipper

A zipper that comes completely apart when unzipped. There is a special tab at the bottom
of a separating zipper for bringing it together and starting the zip.

Serger

A type of sewing machine that stitches the seam, encases the seam with thread, and cuts
off excess fabric at the same time. These are used for construction of garments with knit
fabrics mostly, or to finish seams of any fabric.

Shank button

A button with space left between the button and fabric. A shank button is one made with a
shank. Other buttons can be “shanked” by wrapping thread under the button to create a
shank.
Sizing

Fabric finish that provides crispness without stiffness; a light starch finish.

Snips

Very small cutting tool resembling scissors used to snip threads. Usually used with hand
sewing or portable projects.

Spool

The holder of thread. There are wooden spools, plastic spools, cardboard tube spools, and
cone spools, as well as others.

Stash

Collection of fabric.

Stay stitch

A line of stitching just inside the intended permanent stitching line (seam line) on curved
edges that stabilizes and keeps the curve from distoring. The direction of the stay
stitching is shown on the pattern. If not, it generally goes from shoulder to center on
necklines. There are other indications for stay stitching, but this is one of the more
common.

Stitch in the ditch

Stitching in the ditch is used as a method of understitching and also as a form of simple
machine quilting for craft projects. It is a method of stitching close to a seam allowance
or in the seam itself in order to hold it down.

Stitch length

In general, regular sewing is about 11-12 stitches per inch,

basting/gathering/bunching/sleeve easing is about 6 stitches per inch (plus or minus 1 or
2 stitches for some applications). There are rare occasions when stitches need to exceed
12 per inch, but they are few.

Straight stitch

Stitching made with single forward stitches. This is the regular stitch that most sewing
machines make and may or may not require a special presser foot.
T

Tack

A temporary stitch to hold pieces together, usually removed after final stitching. Tacking
is also known as a term for starting off a seam with a few stitches back and forth for
stabilizing.

Tailor’s tack

A tailor’s tack is essentially two threads in a needle, drawn through fabric layer/s and
then snipped, leaving tails of thread on top and on the bottom of the fabric as a marking
for later use. They can be used to mark pattern pieces for darts, buttonholes, etc. Go
straight through all layers of pattern and fabric before snipping any threads. Leave a long
enough tail of thread that you can find it later. Use a contrasting thread that stands out so
you can see it later.

Tension

Tension is one of the least understood concepts of sewing machines. It refers to the
pressure being placed on your needle and bobbin thread by your machine. There are two
types of tension on your sewing machine – the thread and bobbin tensions. It is best to
read your sewing machine manual for specifics. Rarely does one need to adjust bobbin
tension. Your sewing machine manual will show you the appropriate settings and offer
you examples of what the threads should look like on the right and wrong sides of your
stitching.

Thread

A complementary or like thread is chosen for garment or project construction on a

machine. The bobbin should be wound of the same type of thread or the exact same
thread whenever possible, to prevent knotting, bunching, etc. The first step for most
sewing machine trouble shooting is to change the thread and needle. When hand sewing
with one thread, cut the end of the thread that is nearest to the spool before tying a knot in
the same end. This will prevent ravelling and knotting.

Top stitch

A sometimes decorative, sometimes functional stitch that is usually 1/4″ from the edge of
a seam. For instance, once a vest is turned or a facing to a jacket is turned and pressed,
one may stitch 1/4″ from the edge on the top of the garment to provide a bit of
stabilization. This can be done in same or contrasting thread, depending on the decorative
effect one wishes to achieve.

Tracing paper
A type of paper made especially to be used with a tracing wheel. It has an ink-type
substance on one side for marking fabric with the wheel.

Tracing wheel

A tracing wheel is used with tracing paper. The paper is placed upon the fabric with the
“ink” side down, the pattern markings that need to be transferred placed upon the paper,
and then the markings are traced with the wheel. The wheel itself looks a bit like a pizza
cutter with spikes. Care needs to be taken not to press too hard and cut the pattern, tracing
paper, or the fabric. Tracing ink from the tracing paper does not always wash out and this
needs to be taken into consideration as well.

Trim

Trim is any decorative item, ribbon, lace that is put on a garment or craft item that is
being sewn. Trim is also used to define the act of trimming excess seam allowances or
fabric with scissors.

Tuck

See pin tuck. A method of sewing fabric together resulting in a raised seam, often seen in
heirloom sewing, the bodice of a woman’s blouse or a man’s formal shirt.

Underlining

Lining used to add body to a garment.

Understitching

Keeps a facing or lining from rolling onto the right side of a garment. After pressing the
seam allowance and facing away from the garment, stitch through both a scant 1/8″ from
the seam. Some people grade the seam allowance and facing/lining prior to stitching to
eliminate bulk.

Universal needle

A slightly rounded tip to use for woven or knit fabrics.

V
View

Most patterns show different variations on the pattern package. Each variation is called a
“view”.

Warp

Threads running the length of a woven fabric, sometimes known as the lengthwise grain
(little to no stretch) (see weft and grain)

Wearable art

Decorative, usually quilted, clothing made to be unique, beautiful, and functional.

Weft

Threads running at right angles to the length of a woven fabric, sometimes known as the
cross grain (very little to some stretch) (see warp and grain)

Welt

A method of covering the raw edges of a pocket or other opening, can be single or double
welt.

Whipstitch

A simple running stitch used to hold two pieces of fabric together. Good for closing
seams of leather, crochet/knit item, or the opening of a pillor that has been stuffed.

Wing needle

Needle with wide, wing shaped, flared sides used to create holes in tightly woven fabrics,
such as creating entredeux. Available as single or doubles.

Wrong side

The wrong side of the fabric is the side upon which there is no design. There are
instances of fabric with no wrong side visible, and the determination and appropriate
markings are then made by the person doing the pattern cutting and sewing.
X, Y, Z

Zig zag

A stitch that goes one way (zig) and then the other (zag) and provides a nice finish to a
seam to prevent raveling, can be a decorative addition to any garment, and can allow for
give with knits. A very short to nonexistent stitch length with zig zag stitching is the same
as a satin stitch