Design & Luxury

November - December, 2017

A Modern-Meets-Neo-Classical
Apartment in Milan

HISTORY A recently minted

UNESCO Creative City

LESSONS
A Garden
in the | QR20- | AED20- | OMR2- | BHD2- |

Moroccan
| SAR20- | CHF6- | USD5.5- | EURO4- |

Desert
 Lookout Qatar
14 This and That
Qatar National Library officially opens; Ajyal
2017 presents record 103 films; Van Cleef &
Arpels new Lucky Animals collection; Heya 2017
sees largest number of Qatari designers; and
more.

18 Market Report
Fancy mules.
By Debrina Aliyah

19 Market Report
Bedazzled eyewear.
By Debrina Aliyah

20 On Art
Fine silk artist Rashmi Agarwal has
revolutionized silk painting in Qatar and the rest
Arena Qatar
of the region through her workshops, studio
classes and exhibitions. 38 In Design
By Udayan Nag The new falcon-shaped Mondrian Doha hotel
Photographs by Robert Altamirano is a first for world-renowned Dutch designer
Marcel Wanders in the region.

Quality Qatar
By Ola Diab

42 Wanderlust
Its air of shabby chic nonchalance keeps the
madding crowd away, while those in the know
28 On The Verge just cannot stay away.
Versatile artist Patric Rozario talks about Text and photographs by Debrina Aliyah
adapting to new art mediums to create art Page 28
without limits. Known for several unique creations

By Ola Diab
45 On Heritage including thread art, Patric Rozario has
explored thread art and cloud painting,
A gastronomical epicentre that is small but incorporating pearls and paint on
32 The Thing packs a punch. plates, which he calls "Pearlappetite",
and now "Artistic Metal Panels".
Text and photographs by Debrina Aliyah
A cardboard box now upgraded and presented
as a transparent cube and a symbol of modern
luxury.

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12
Arena Qatar

Wanderlust

An Island of Locals
Its air of shabby chic nonchalance keeps
the madding crowd away, while those in
the know just cannot stay away.

TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

46 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine

 BY THE SEA
Previous page:
Hotel Chiaia di
Luna is a spacious
property with
plenty of nooks
and corners where
one can soak up
the sun. Clockwise
from top left: The
marvels of Ponza
are in its isolated
beaches, water
caves and rocky
cliffs. The Chiaia di
Luna cliff is a
natural white-
washed marble
formation.

ARRIVING ON PONZA ISLAND through one of the few ferry services that
push onto from either Anzio or Naples, the first thing that strikes you is the
absence of foreigners, except maybe for yourself. The jam-packed ferry port is a
cackling of fast-paced Italian conversations as the new arrivals decide on what
to eat or which boat to hop onto for the day’s adventure. A smattering of others
will be wheeling their luggage to the local police station — the designated pick-
up outpost for almost all the hotels on the island.
An hour away from mainland Italy by boat, Ponza is notoriously local as a
summer holiday destination. While Capri, Almafi and Sardinia capture the
attention of romantic-getaway hopefuls from around the world, Ponza and its
shabby chic nonchalance are almost never heard of outside of Italy. On the few
occasions where they do get a mention, it is mainly because some celebrity had
anchored their boat in one of the bays for a couple of hours, while on his way to
the glitzier islands.
Though it is easy to see why Ponza is often overlooked — there are no big
hotel chains offering the standard tune of luxury resort life, or starred
gastronomy experiences, or streets of designer stores with valet parking. In its
place instead are charming independent hotels whose owners will tan with you,
tiny restaurants with daily fresh-off-the-boat seafood and an unending coastline
of secret bays and cliffs that are begging to be explored. These are all the things
that define an Italian summer packed into one island, which is why it appeals to
the Italians who disappear from the big cities for all of August. Here, the concept
of "dolce far niente" (the joy of doing nothing) reaches its glorious height, with
days of only eating and soaking in the natural marvels of the island.
STAY
Hotel Chiaia di Luna Overlooking the Chiaia di Luna white-washed cliff is a
marshmallow-colored property sprawling down the main street that loops
around the island. Ilia and son Giuseppe Stile are the friendly hosts who will
more than likely chat and share island gossip with you over a coffee. Rooms are
small and basic but on this island, it’s not about the rooms but about the space
and facilities ­­­­— there’s plenty of room here to find your own private corner to
soak in the sun.
Grand Hotel Santa Domitilla Mere steps away from the island’s main center, this
hotel boasts its own heated jet-pool and hammam facilities as well as a fancy
restaurant, Il Melograno. Service is tip-top and they can arrange just about
anything — from boat excursions to spa therapy and treatments.
Villa Laetitia A gorgeously appointed bed and breakfast styled property that is

47
Arena Qatar Wanderlust
situated among the homes of the locals. It is a choice jewel for many of the more
design-inclined guests because of its owners — the Fendi family.
EAT
Ristorante L'Aragosta At this local favorite, be sure to ask for the Italian menu
and take your time — with some help from the internet. The English menu is an
abbreviated version, with many of the specials missing, leaving you with just
some basic choices of pasta and pizza. Order the fish of the day cooked "aqua
pazza" style — a simple poaching technique that retains all the fresh flavors.
Trattoria Un mare di sapori A family-run joint where the menu is literally what-
48 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine
SIT BACK AND RELAX
Clockwise from top left: Spend the afternoon
indulging in the joy of doing nothing under a
cabana in Grand Hotel Santa Domitilla; The
nonchalant vibe of the island gives it a sense of
authenticity; and the arrival port of Ponza is the
bustling center of the island.
ever came off the fishing boat for the day. When picking the seafood, the kitch-
en will whip up the dishes to your preference. The owners are very friendly and
will take their time to get to know you, so get ready for a long social meal. But
then again, on Ponza, there is no rush to get anywhere.
Mamafé Located to the north of the island, this is an excellent spot to catch the
sunset. Throw on a nice dress or shirt to blend in with the crowd, as this is one
of the few places where the night continues with low-key house music and par-
ty vibes.
EXPLORE
Get On a Boat The big charms of Ponza are its gorgeous natural cliffs, beaches
and bays, and the best way to see all of this is to be on a boat. If you are already
arriving to Ponza on your own charter, then you can plan your own itinerary to
cover the different spots, but there are plenty of day-trip hires on the island that
will take you out for a full-day adventure. Hop onto the boat with a group of
Italians and get ready to make some friends as you dive into crystal clear wa-
ters and share a pasta at lunch.
Rent an Electric Bicycle There is one main street that loops around the island and
because of the winding terrain, an electric bicycle is the best bet — unless you are
up for a fitness challenge on a traditional bike. For about QR100 a day, you can
take an electric bike out and ride from one end of the island to the other, with
plenty of time in between to explore the area's parks and archaeological sites.

IT IS ACTUALLY A TOWN — a recently minted
UNESCO Creative City, in fact. But it is with much affection
and reminiscence that that the locals refer to Alba as a
village because in a space where you can walk leisurely
from end to end in about 20 minutes, it has all the cultural
and neighborly charm that draws you in — just like home.
For a place this small, it sure is prolific. Home to Piazza
Duomo — the three-star Michelin restaurant where it takes
months to land a reservation and is a year-round main
draw for visitors, but Alba is one of the big pillars that
makes up the Italian food export industry. Well-known
around the world for its glorious white truffles and
hazelnuts, it is the epicenter of Ferrero Rocher (producers
of the Forrero Rocher chocolates) and an annual Truffle
Cup championship that runs concurrently with the
International Alba White Truffle Fair in November.  precious truffle.
An annual pilgrimage destination of sorts for truffle
lovers, the market offers quite an experiential journey
even for non-truffle fans, especially those who take an
interest in small agricultural development and social
tourism. A big part of the market is dedicated to stands by
On Heritage
A Village of Truffles
and Hazelnuts
A gastronomical epicenter that is small but packs a
punch.
TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
individual truffle hunters who have come to peddle off their
precious finds for the season. Truffle hunting is regulated
in Italy and only these licensed truffle hunters are allowed
to set about on their adventures into the forest twith dogs
rather than the usual pig hunting companions to seek out
the culinary treasures. Pigs tend to cause a lot of damage
to the terrain and have been outlawed in Italy as truffle
hunting companions, so the true stars of the region are the
more gentle dogs with laser-sharp sniffing capabilities.
Witnessing the dogs in action is a pleasant and exciting
experience and many of the truffle hunters now are open to
taking visitors along on their hunts. Wandering into the
woods together, visitors are immersed into the hunt —
which is a combination of the dog’s sense of smell and the
hunter’s experienced sense of intuition in finding the IN VARIETY
Clockwise from top
left: A truffle hunter
The average price range for the coveted white truffles is going into details of
somewhere between QR2,400 to QR5,000 a kilogram, while his find for the week;
the summer black truffles start about QR240 a kilogram, Truffles last up to
seven days after
depending on the size and type. These numbers though, being unearthed
are merely a rough guide, as the ultimate price is set and are best kept
covered.
49
 Arena Qatar On Heritage

through lively and sometimes heated conversations between the truffle hunters
and buyers, based on subjective considerations regarding the shape and smell
of these rare fungi. “It’s a song and dance. The truffles have to be in the kitchen
as soon as it has been found. The brief bargaining process is more of a time-
respected ritual rather than a business affair,” he adds.
The non-profit Ente Fiera Nazionale del Tartufo Bianco d’Alba was established
some fifteen years ago to bring the fair and the city together in a move to tie the
produce to the land. The move has also brought on many initiatives aimed at
highlighting Italian excellence — a concept that the creative field is very proud
of. Apart from the main fair set in the Museum of Alba, the local farmers and
businesses have turned the whole town into one big festival space with produce
and goodies from the Langhe region (in which Alba is situated). It is quite a tasty
affair for visitors, with its never-ending samples of chocolates, sauces and fruits.
And then there are, of course, the hazelnuts. Ferrero’s fame is closely linked
to its wildly popular range of chocolate products that feature hazelnuts as its
main ingredients. If they aren’t already in the truffle business, the residents of
Alba are likely to be employees of Ferrero. On every corner of the city, most
sweet artisanal produce feature the nut is some form or other. “It is a way of life
here. There is an inside joke among us chefs on who can actually make a dessert
without using any hazelnuts,” jests Gigrosi.
Finally, ome must not forget the grapes that seal Alba as one of the dominating
red wine regions. Home to some of the most prolific reds, including the Dolcetto,
Barolo and Nebbiolo, there’s something for everyone as boutique wineries put
their own twist onto the classics. The Arneis is the main star for white wines,
while bubbly drinkers will be pleasantly surprised with the Contratto — a very
old “metodo classico” producer that is hard to find outside of this region. 
So it is with no surprise that this year’s fair ended on a highnote, with the city
being awarded the title of Creative City of Gastronomy by UNESCO — one of only 19
in the world, in a campaign led by Piazza Duomo’s
starred-chef, Enrico Crippa. “It is so much more than
CITY OF TRUFFLES
just the glamorous setting, but we want to improve Clockwise from top left: At the
initiatives with other territories with similar cultural outdoor market, produce from
local farmers take centerstage;
identities, and of course, we are very satisfied to be For aficionados, the quality of
recognized in world gastronomy,” says Alba’s Mayor the wooden board for shaving
truffles is the equally
Maurizio Marello. The fair runs annually until the important matter; and the city
end of November with the magnus white truffle as is home to highly-rated
restaurants that specialize in
the season's star, but Alba is a good drop-in all year truffles and hazelnuts.
long for different types of truffles and its many
highly rated restaurants and wine bars.

50 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine