The Modellers Guide PDF

The Modellers Guide
Superdetailing, Painting and Weathering

Aircraft of WWII, with airfield accessories, ordnance and diorama
Aleksandar Pou
P001 - WWII AIRCRAFT BOOK.indd 1 08/10/2014 15:07

P002-013 - WWII AIRCRAFT BOOK.indd 2 08/10/2014 11:22
The Modellers Guide:
Superdetailing, Painting and Weathering
Aircraft of WWII
Aleksandar Pou
To my lovely 3 year old son Marko, gifted model breaker!

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
This book is dedicated to my first son Marko, who was born at the time it
was being written.
Special thanks is due to my dear wife Tanja for all her encouragement,
motivation, understanding and patience. Thanks love!
I would like to acknowledge and thank the following companies and people
who kindly supported this book:
The Cool Tool GmbH for their very generous provision of amazing multi tool
The Unimat MetalLine and all of the accessories.
The Airbrush Company for their very generous provision of Life Color paints,
thinners, cleaners and Iwata Airbrush.
Harder & Steenbeck GmbH for their generous provision of EURO-TEC 20A
silent airbrush compressor.
The Small Shop US Company for their kind provision of two amazing Hold
& Fold tools, cutting mats and brass rolling station.
Graham from Relish Models for his kind provision of the 1:32 Tamiya
Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IX and Baracuda Studios resin accessories.
Essco Aircraft Company for their provisions of five aircraft manuals which
helped me to build more accurate models in this book.
Models For Sale Ltd. for their kind provisions of Testors Models Master
paints.
NeOmega Resin Kits Company for their provision of Vector resin engines,
used on P-47D Thunderbolt in this book.
Signifer Company from France for their provisions of resin airfield

accessories used on Thunderbolt diorama in this book.
Sell Model from China for their provision of magnificent 1:32 Trumpeter
P-47D Razorback.
Historex Agents for their provision of two resin figures used on Thunderbolt
diorama in this book.
Wesco Enterprises US for their provision of really magical Magic Sculpt

modelling clay.
Panther Models UK for their provision of Hornet resin heads and airfield
accessories used on Thunderbolt diorama in this book.
My good friend and a club mate Vojislav S Stankov for his help with
historical references and encouragement with daily question is that book
ever going to be done?
My good friends and club mates Miroslav ljivic, Nenad Mikluev and
Pegi Stamenkovic for all of their support, encouragement, technical and
historical references.
My good friend Andy Bull for his support and help with some UK English
translations.
My good friend Mike Hopper for all of his support and help.
My good friend Richard J Caruana for his support and help with
Spitfire references.
The Modellers Guide to Superdetailing, Painting and Weathering Aircraft of WWII 5

THE MODELLERS GUIDE TO SUPERDETAILING, PAINTING AND WEATHERING AIRCRAFT OF WWII
CONTENTS
Scale modelling: A love story ready to assemble 10
CHAPTER 1: TOOLS AND MATERIALS 14
CHAPTER 2: TECHNIQUES 18
CHAPTER 3: BUILDING THE AIRCRAFT
n SPITFIRE MK. IXC 28

n P-47D THUNDERBOLT 77

n JU-87D STUKA 125
CHAPTER 4: MAKING A DIORAMA 148

M
y story as being a modeller
begins more or less the same
as any other modeller's story,
once upon a time when i was
a little kid... I was born in 1982 in a loving
family living in west Bosnia. One of the world
famous military airbases constructed and
completely hidden under mountain, eljava
airbase, was just a few kilometers from our
home and daily Mig-21 low level flights over
our house left a passion for military aircraft
ever since. From when i was seven years
old, my father used to take me to air shows
held at the airbase and my fascination and
passion grew by looking at the men in flight
suits and perfectly aligned natural metal
Mig's. My modelling skills were at work
with model trains at first, trying to make
entire communities, tunnels, stations
out of wood. My first diorama was a small
wild west town with railway station and
everything that goes with it, measuring five
meters across and completely done from
scratch. With being only 9 years old, making
photographs of it was the last thing on my
mind, something I regret now. With plastic
models being my main focus for years now
it is still hard to simply build a model out of
the box without trying to add some scratch
build parts, just to make the work more
interesting. Over the years, my skills have
evolved and been refined with constant
modeling experiments. My models have
been published numerous time in various
modeling magazines and since I am not
attending any competitions, seeing my
models published is the right kind of food
for my peculiar modelers ego. Now, i am
a father of a wonderful boy named Marko,
aged three, who is already showing his
interest in scale models by going through
the kit boxes and dry fitting parts as he
sees fit. Soon, I am about to become a
father for the second time, this time a baby
girl, Aleksandra. With being a father now
becoming my main occupation as well as
due to my work, there is less and less time
for scale models which is kind of liberating
at the moment. I still keep buying kits
though, habits are hard to change and
for my interests, thats evolving too judging
by more and more ship kits, both wooden
and plastic, safely stashed in my man cave.
Apart from making models, I am also making
paint masks for scale modelers which is now
becoming more of a full time occupation
than just a hobby. They can be found on
shop.maketar.com. Currently living in Novi
Sad, Serbia, with my wife Tanja and our son
Marko, fourth family member on her way and
eagerly waited for.
With kind regards,
Aleksandar Pou

FOREWORD
L
ooking back to the mid-1980s one remembers how
the modelling fraternity was dwindling fast and nearly
dying as computer games took over whatever free
time was previously dedicated to model making.
Fortunately this new fad did not last long and genuine
modellers returned to more creative activities. Our launch at
that crucial time of a new style modelling magazine, Modelaid
International, helped to keep the modelling hobby alive during
a period when other hobby magazines were closing down.
This brave initiative also had the surprising effect of raising
model standards in many ways, replacing the previous 'boys'
hobby' mentality with a selective and mature approach to
aircraft modelling. Over the last two decades we reaped
awesome results from those whom one cannot continue
to call modellers; they are now truly masters of an art that
continues to seek perfection with every new creation.
That modellers are exhibitionists is a very well known fact.
And why not? There's not much satisfaction in spending
hours, days and nights working on a masterpiece that is
then put away inside a cabinet once it has been finished.
Super detailing and weathering have become more and more
specialised and beyond the modest means of someone like
myself who used to build models to museum standards.
So now I stick to super detailing and weathering my
drawings in an effort to reach standards set by modellers,
while enjoying whole heartedly their magnificent work as
explained and illustrated in this wonderful publication by my
friend Aleksandar Pocuc. His work is truly magnificent and
should serve as a superb basis of learning for those who still
consider themselves novices in the field, while without doubt
they can also be a source of inspiration to established and
experienced modellers.
I continue to promise myself to take up aircraft modelling
again when I retire. The big question is 'when'!
Richard J. Caruana
Malta 2014

SCALE MODELLING: A LOVE STORY READY TO ASSEMBLE
E
verything you knew about plastic Its good to be a kit modeller these
modelling, every model you days, theres plenty of goodies for us...
built, all that you have learnt And a few drawbacks...
and researched, it needs to be Take a look at some online pictures
done all over again, old knowledge is of completed kits, pure craft, skilfully
out, new technologies are in. If youve built, detailed, painted and weathered.
been into modelling for 30 years or These are far cry from first models you
just starting, obvious starting point is did as a kid, with some basic tech skills,
the Internet. And there it is, product of sharp box cutter, glue and, if you were
global informational revolution under too advanced, paint. If you need your
your fingertips, all the information model to look like that, then you need
youll ever need just few clicks away: that new pricey kit, aftermarket resin seat
modelling techniques, tools, which and wheels, photo etched dashboard
airbrush nozzle you need, what type of and seatbelts, super-clear vac canopy,
cement to use, exact colour shades, thin-film decals, metal tracks instead
the right brands and manufacturers, that poor rubber ones, metal hooks...
whats inside that box, hows the plastic Add some precise engineering skills
looking, is it accurate enough, decal and for photo etch bending, panel opening
paint options, aftermarket parts. Then showing engine, radio set, guns and
countless references, photos, texts, ammo, turret interior, lower ship decks,
book excerpts, walkarounds showing all tail gunners pack of smokes, first aid
possible details, forums, blogs, mailing kit, glycol tank, map of occupied Europe
lists, social network groups, SIGs, and half eaten wurst on the field shop
instant contact with thousands of fellow table, somewhere in the Eastern front.
modellers around the globe, some more You must know your chemistry too!
or less keen to help you, various experts Which putty reacts badly with what
and hexperts advices, endless debates Japanese paints, what kind of primer
over historical accuracy of some oddball undercoat for this marvellous metalizer,
scheme or Spitfire prop shape. Then, buffing it or not, which brand of setting
there are all that new, super detailed solution will melt your decals, do you
kits, with hundreds of parts, high quality need cellulose thinner in acrylics, is that
injection molding, accurate, researched, small bottle of thinner really that better
with gaudy decals printed in high quality, than that bought in supermarket?
and all that repeated in all the popular Then, some machine shop skills for
scales. But thats not all! Call now and drilling all those tiny holes, cementing
get all the aftermarket parts you can and flimsy photo etch parts to non-existent
cannot imagine! Coloured photo-etched details, major surgery for fitting that resin
parts, detailed resin parts, even better cockpit tub into fuselage, assembly
decals printed abroad, turned metal gun of flaps hinges, tank aerials, AA gun
barrels for tanks, metal casted tracks. If intricate sights, ship railings and tiny
youre into some rare and less popular float plane launcher, WWI biplane rigging
subjects, theres something for you too (oh, the HORROR)... Dont forget to
short-run and resin kits, now with details gather all precious tools you might need:
and quality matching styrene ones. craft knifes, tweezers, chisels, pin vise,
When you run out of paint, you can order clip holders, pliers, files, sanding sticks,
it online, shop for some discounts, just saws, scribers, micro drills, cutters, small
like regular stuff you order. Lacquer and electric drill with gazillion bits, magnifier
acrylic paints, authentic and general glass, brushes, paint stirrer, airbrush and
shades, various specialized thinners, compressor, paint booth...
flat, gloss, satin coats, decal setting Also, you need to be pure artist in he
solutions, weathering liquids, pigments, heart and painter by the hand. Good eye
fillers, putties, paint retarders, paint for all the various shades of grey, green
cleaners, DIY resins... and blue, steady hand for airbrushing,
10 SCALE MODELLING - A LOVE STORY READY TO ASSEMBLE

preshading, postshading, pin-washing, a clue. Maybe I could sneak into junior
washing, drybrushing, filters, mists, competition, I still look boyish, I need
grading, fading, layering, weathering, that medal! Or Im modelling just for
chipping, and to seal all that with several myself, just for fun, for positive energy,
coats of clear varnish. to past the time and relax from daily
But, thats not all, in order to present chores? Or to harvest all the praises?
your fine work, you must be a talented Booo, this competition is rigged, Im
photographer. Build small photo studio, not a winner. There should be more
with correct lightning setup, uniform competitions, I need a chance to win win
background, good dSLR camera, win! Or we need to calm down, its just a
tripod, softbox, flash, zoom lens, and hobby? Or I must be the best?
knowledge to operate all that if you If you take back yourself to that kid
want your photos to look like on that gluing his first kit, and present him with
website, with cockpit details like in that all this complications, will you still be
magazine, without thick layer of paint in for it? Why do we complicate things
showing, or fine dust on some parts, when grown up?
or dirty keyboard and coffee mug in And the modelling dilemmas of
the background. White balance, light modern modellosapiens go on and on...
settings, shutter speed, flash level, Its often said that we are living in
shades, dubious macro mode or not, golden times for modelling. Quantity and
priority settings, manual or auto mode, quality of new kits cant be disputed, all
depth of filed, all that fancy talk. the available information, connections
Still, its not over. You HAVE to prove with thousands of other modellers.
authencity of your kits scheme, with The new age brought new norms,
period pictures, colour profiles, scans, standards and expectations. Life style
heavy megapixels showing museum and tempo are different, people are
pieces, books, magazines, papers, changed and their social interactions
websites pure detective work, with are more dynamic, affecting all aspect
bit of a historian and a philosopher. of living, including our hobby. Total
Then, how to present your work? Your communications and global connections
own blog, where you set the rules, or made the need to compete even greater,
some public forum, but not just any, we are now eager to prove ourselves
as you must beware of those gritty to total strangers, to step into this
old modellers, always ready to throw virtual arena and fight for our piece or
rotten tomatoes on your fine handiwork, recognition in modelling cyberspace,
make a laugh of it and ridicule you as just like you fight and strive in your
a modeller, so you need to run and everyday life, to survive, to do better,
hide in shame. Or do you choose all do be safer. And why not? If one has
friendly shoulder patting good days the time, the means and the talent, with
forum, where all you get are praises, all the abundance on the market, its
superlatives and cheerful emoticons in logical way to go. The problem is if its
several rows? Maybe those lethargic presented as the only way there is. Not
places, where your post dont get any all modellers need to have Advanced
replies, positive or not? Or to take it to Modeller Syndrome, to make perfect
the competition? Put it just in the show kits. You should build kits for yourself
section, or to compete with others? in the first place. And learn as you go.
Is my model really up to it? Am I born Stagnation is also counter productive,
modeller? Sure I am! Hey, that guy with always seek for better result. Many of
long unpronounceable name spent six the returnees to the hobby are scared
months on that kit, is he insane, who away when they realize wheat is the
does that, thats not fair?! And look at norm today, what they are expected to
those kiddies, brush painted kits, ha-ha, do, at what level. So take your time to
missing half the parts, they dont have learn, to try new techniques, read books

and magazines, ask other Going further, we get ourselves into
modellers, practice. new realm of critical modelling. Deep
To be honest, these are not the panel lines, rubber tracks, too short
real golden times of modelling, rather wings, accuracy issue, wrong cross
golden times of modelling business. section, raised panel lines, out of scale
Late 70s and 80s were the real golden rivets, spartan cockpit, unbuildable, no
times, as proven by ever more aging weapons, no details, bad decals, lousy
modelling demographics. The world is instructions problems big today, not so
changed, back in the day it was just a big back then. You had to scratchbuild,
hobby, meant to relax and have fun, kits now you can buy the specific part.
were more crude and limited in range, Somehow you had more time for kits
there was no Wiki on click away, no before. And there were no shake and
forum pictures of the exact kit you were bake kits, nor kits with over 100 euros
building, no WWW and vast amounts price tag. You pay to save your time, and
of information. Out of the Box was the to get more accuracy, so you carefully
norm. Scratchbuild details in the cockpit, choose kits to be bought. You forgot the
thin seat sides, add foil seatbelts, times when you respected every kit you
drybrush instruments. Take wheels could find. And you get frustrated when
from the Matchbox kit as they are more the super new kit is discovered to have
accurate, and Airfix prop, suitable for same old issues as 30 old one, just with
this version. Cut off and control surfaces 100 more parts for the interior that will be
and put them in more dynamic position. invisible once you close all the panels.
Sand down overscale details, make sub Small box, 40 parts, two decal options,
assemblies, be spare on cement, use 1/72 in Europe, 1/48 in USA, a typical
masks when painting, and better paint in kit many generations of modellers know
few thin layers. Dont use ALL the decals very well. Now we get everything in all
from the sheet, just for one version, mix the scales, 1/100, 1/144, 1/72, 1/48,
paints for better shade, fix decals with 1/32, 1/35, 1/24. Kits with hundreds or a
varnish. Add subtle weathering, then thousand parts. Ships, tanks, airplanes,
matt cote over it. Be proud of it, put it in vehicles, figures of all sizes... And there
the display case, show it to your friends. used to be just Airfix small soldiers,
Ask older modellers for advice, let them British, German, American, commandos.
show you some tricks for even better Its hard to imagine old Matchbox kits
models. Enjoy kits better than yours. available everywhere, every plastic frame
Learn on your errors. in different colour, easy to assemble,
Modelling should be relaxing, cheap, all popular subjects, with small
place where you go to recharge your window at the back of the box, for kid to
batteries, in this fast and stressful see colourful plastic. So father buys the
times. Precise manual work is known kit in one of the numerous specializes
to stimulate endorphin production, that kit stores, kid runs back home and
why DIY is still popular. Working on our assembles it at kitchen table in an
little kits, we get better, happier, settled, afternoon. No painting, plastic is vivid
more patient and focused, fulfilled with enough and it has decals, what do you
something thats not our day job. And need more? And there was that magical
when the hobby becomes frustration, box art, no CAD back then, no digital
somethings gone wrong. Leave it for backgrounds and smeared hi speed
a while, take a step away, think, dont flying 3D renderings, just good old hand
push it. Be satisfied with your work drawn masterpieces, with bombs and
and inspired to evolve, respect your explosions, Cross, Koike, Huxley, Knight,
standards first, then others. They used Velc...
to say: make one kit to try it, two for But, how do you sell it now against
competition, three for display and all rest social networks, electronic gadgets,
for yourself. reality shows and killing evil zombies in
12 SCALE MODELLING - A LOVE STORY READY TO ASSEMBLE

full 3D acceleration? Shermans. With wrong tracks.
So, whats the main problem with Just when you finally break the
this hobby? Its a dinosaur. Young bank and purchase dreaded printer
generations smirk at it: what you like (cartridges available separately),
waste time building it? Your friends are Tamayato introduces the next best
horrified: what, you still play with that thing in modelling, StyrnBots(tm),
toys? And this dinosaur is looking at nanotechnology wonder bots, that
the incoming comet, slowly but surely produce exact replicas on subatomic
filling the horizon. In order to survive, level. Now, thats something rad! Finally
modelling needs to unstuck from 20th we have true scale models, with ALL
century and step into modern times. the details, no corners cut. Yes, its big
Yes, sure, details are better now, buck, but hey, its a hobby. Its modelling
more refined, and precise. Still its dream come true. Scale can be
manual labour, so strange to young changed in the fly. Squadron markings
generations. We need real technological changed in matter of seconds. Pilot can
boost, we need and i in front of our actually move his hands. Panel lines are
terminology, iModelling, iWeathering, overlapped, rivets flush and tiny, surface
iWash, iPE, iDecals. We need apps for detail restrained. Tank suspension is
smart phones and electronic gadgets. better than original, zimmerit looks the
Download app for Bf 109, Mustang part. Wing trailing edges razor sharp,
or Panther tank, send it to 3D printer, wheel wells full of pipes and wires,
choose painting options, markings and canopies thin and clear, all control
weathering level, click OK and wait surface moveable, no silvering around
overnight for your finished product. In markings, invasion stripes uneven,
few years, those slow printers will be Russian T-34s have chalked in slogans
at the scrap yard, new, smaller ones, with Nanochalk(tm). Real oil spills, real
will print in just and hour. If you are gun powder residue and exhaust stains.
really at it, you can get those 5-minute Hasego will pack their StyrnBots in
printers, instead a new car. Of course, 523 different packings, but all will be
if you get a free app, then your models the same inside. Mr.StyrnBot will be
will be just OK, not bad, fit for back the preferred brand for replenishing
row on the shelf. Sometimes they have wasted little bots. Drogony will master
some bugs, so you get left Corsair wing armour kits, Slide ArmoroBots specially
on Focke Wulf model, asymmetrical tuned to reproduce composite steels
USAF markings, French roundels out used to cast real tanks. Hornblower will
of register, unrealistic chipping, spartan be known for its unorthodox Special
details in cockpit, orange peel finish on Mini Roboters, capable to reproduce to
NMF F-105. So you buy hi-end designer scales up to 10:1, with slight accuracy
brand apps. Yes, you can get just most issues. Ravelle will be planning to
popular subjects, but those are perfect! reissue plastic kits in Plastic Nostalgic
The details, the paint finish, the subtle series. For those seeking the ultimate
weathering! And for limited time offer, perfection, aftermarket RezNbots will be
you get self photographing kit booth, for available... And then someone will have
that superb jaw dropping images. On bright idea to send a StyrnBot in the
the next competition, you will surely get past to fix all the faulty plastic kits...
the right attention, judges know what the So, were waiting for the future, until
good apps are... So youre sipping Pina then enjoy building kits your way, learn
Colada by the pool at your vacation, and practice, while you still can, until
when sudden need for a division of they move Bot factories to Mars...
Tiger tanks overpowers you, you touch
few icons on your iGadget, and the 3D
printing house makes overnight delivery Marjan Urekar,
to your room. But instead Tigers, you get IPMS Novi Sad, IPMS Serbia

Chapter I
TOOLS AND MATERIALS
TOOLS
T
here is no trade without proper tools and the same tools. Every day, new tools are becoming available and made
stands for our hobby. Number and variety off tools especially for us modellers in a never ending quest for perfect
that you use often depends of your modelling model. Scribing access panels, riveting, photo-etched parts
skills. Beginners usually work with basic tools only, cutting, bending, rolling... the list is endless.
modellers knife, tweezers, files and sanding sticks. With your Power tools are something a lot of modellers argue about,
skills improving, you will be able to do more complicated are they appropriate and necessary in our hobby? Well, it all
modelling tasks and would naturally require and use more depends on what modelling material you are working with,
different kinds of tools. We can divide all of them into three personally i do not use power tools on anything made from
main categories, hand tools, makeshift tools and power tools. styrene including plastic kit parts as well. The reason is quite
Hand tools are the most used tools in scale modelling for simple, power tools sand, spin, cut too fast and will melt the
large variety of tasks like cutting, drilling, sanding, trimming, plastic and even if you can adjust the speed they are still a lot
filling, parts holding, measuring, painting and so on. In terms more difficult to control than hand tools and after all, why would
of accuracy hand tools are invaluable and their limits are only you need a power drill to make a hole in a small plastic part.
determined by how skilled a modeller is. There are situations So why do we need power tools in the first place? At some
when we do not have an appropriate hand tool to do the task point, an average plastic kit modeller will become advanced
and then we make our own tool, those are makeshift tools modeller which now implicates use of resin upgrade sets, metal
which can be used for parts holding, model holding, strip upgrade and replacement parts and finally, scratchbuilding.
cutting, sanding of irregular surfaces, rigging, scribing and all We can still rely on hand tools for some of the simpler tasks
the other tasks we cannot buy a tool for. At the end, no matter but as our skills improve we will get the urge to make our own
how long you are in parts, upgrades and conversions, that is where the power
the hobby you can tools are irreplaceable for turning, milling, grinding, drilling...
never have too many with accuracy and precision. Power tools require more
Basic tools for sanding, smoothing and polishing, all equally important. Blue makeshift sanding tools on the left
hand side are a fellow modellers product and great thing for sanding cylindrical and round shaped parts. Sanding
pads and Alclad polish cloths are perfect for smoothing and polishing painted parts as they are soft and when used
with water will produce very smooth satin-like finish. Squadron sanding sticks are my favourites and i use them
on plastic, metal, resin and wood with equally good results, wet or dry. Dark mesh clots is suitable for smoothing
larger parts turned on lathe, also a perfect thing for gently rubbing over Alclad finish to get scratches and more
realistic look.
Basic cutting tools every

modeller should have. Three
types of knives for different
tasks, pointed tip blade for
very fine cuts and trimmings,
curved blade for trimming,
cutting styrene rods and
shapes and inside curved
blade for separating moving
surfaces, scoring styrene
sheets and so on. Saws are
important for cutting resin
bits, kit parts and even small
gauge aluminium and brass
pipes. Small and sharp cutting
pliers for detaching kit parts
of the sprue, remember not
to use these for cutting wires
and things as you want them
sharp for plastic.
14 CHAPTER I - TOOLS AND MATERIALS

Tools for holding parts are especially helpful when working with small objects and
in situations when you need a part to be securely held for painting but also to
avoid holding and touching it with your hands. Particularly interesting is jewellers
universal work holder with comfortable wooden handle and very versatile vise that
can hold pretty much everything from figurines, kit parts, pipes, resin parts...
a couple of hours and can be

safely masked or over-painted.
Enamel paint drying time also
depends on humidity in the air,
more humid the air is paint will
dry slower. Some modellers
like to protect their paint work
by putting it into sealed plastic
container to prevent dust
particles sticking to the model
which will only prolong drying
time as by evaporating paint
raises humidity in the container.
The best thing after painting
your model is to leave it aside
on a tabletop for at least 24
hours. I have found the best
results to be with Testors Model
Master, Revell and Humbrol
enamels. Enamel paints are
Reamers, pipe dry to a hard surface which can flammable and toxic so use
cutters, pin vices, be easily sanded with fine wet them in well ventilated area or
callipers, sculpting
tools, files, scribers sanding paper, sanding pads outside only!
and rivet makers are or abrasive cloth to achieve
just as important for
any serious modeller perfectly smooth satin finish. Lacquer Paints
and scratchbuilder. Highly diluted enamel paints Lacquer paints dries by solvent
will make a perfect wash for evaporation and produces a
panel lines and recessed areas. hard, durable finish, in any
Highly effective filters can also sheen level from ultra matte to
caution so be sure to wear modeller who in some stage be made by highly diluting high gloss which can be often
protective goggles and hand of his modelling have not enamels and airbrushing it further polished as required.
gloves at all times. Remember, used enamels, regardless of on the model. Adding thinner Drying time is shorter than for
it is better not to see well with his favourite scale, period or to enamel paint will shorten enamels, surface is generally
goggles than not to see at all point of interest. Enamels are the drying time as thinner harder, more durable and
without them! oil based paints and that oil evaporates faster. To prolong can be easily sanded and
component is what determines drying time simply add small polished with dry and wet
PAINTS their drying time ranging from amount of artist oils to the abrasives. Thanks to excellent
One of the most asked a few hours to a few days, not mix. To faster the drying time surface properties of lacquer
questions in any discussion so desirable having in mind a use lacquer thinner instead of paints and to the fact that
on painting models either by number of different colours and enamel, in this case the paint they can be produced in any
brush or airbrush is which coats we have to deal with on can be considered dry after just sheen level, the best metalizer
brand and type of paint is the a single subject. Brush painting
best out there. Considering with enamels over enamels is
the number of brands and another bit of a problem as no
types of paints available on the matter for how long you leave
market today, there is simply no it to cure they will dissolve
straight answer to this question. one another more often than
First, we need to analyze the not and create bumpy and
properties of each paint type, irregular paint surface. One
pros and cons, the environment way to avoid this would be
we work in and of course the protective acrylic based coat
costs. Further in this chapter between two enamel coats.
i will try to explain the basic When we come to airbrushing,
properties of three most used enamels are one of the best
paint types and my experience for the job, they have very fine
with each of them. Also, each structure and flow properties
of the three models in this book and since they are slow drying
is painted with different paint there is no chance of clogging
type to help demonstrate paint or drying of the paint in the
properties and usage. airbrush. You can use them
for airbrushing large areas, Unimat Metal Line multi tool is an amazing piece of hardware being so modular and
Enamel Paints shading, fading, filtering, panel versatile. Lathe, milling machine, sanding, drilling, tool sharpening and grinding are
just a few of many tasks this little machine can do. All in one and pretty much all you
I am sure that there is no line enhancing etc. Enamels need in your workshop.

Chapter I
TOOLS AND MATERIALS
Never settle with one type or brand of paint as

best results are achieved by combining them and
experimenting.
paints we have now days are paints for airbrushing. My that water based acrylics are elements and of course model
lacquer based, as well as favourites and the only ones much less hazardous or non parts. It is very simple to do it
the best primers and micro i use are Gunze Sangyo Mr. toxic at all and most of them with enamels and oils as they
fillers. Generally, models and Color paints. are odourless. It is important are oil based, stay wet enough
parts painted with lacquers to remember that if you are for you to work with them and
can be handled, masked and ACRYLIC PAINTS not spraying your models with the blending process goes
over-painted in just a couple of Acrylic water based paints lemonade, it is not healthy! Just smooth every single time. With
hours while brush painting with are relatively new in scale if something says non-toxic acrylics it is a whole different
lacquers over lacquers will not modelling and their popularity that does not means that you story, layers and layers of
dissolve the paint. Oil washes keeps growing. For a modeller can keep inhaling it all day different shades of the base
can go directly over lacquers as who has been using enamels long! Further good sides of paint, over-painting, feathering...
enamel thinner will not dissolve or lacquers transition to acrylics acrylic paints are: you can The results are surprisingly
or mix with solvent component. may seem hard or pointless. dilute most of them with just good but the process itself is
Lacquer paints are also more With acrylics, it is a whole water, if you mess up your a bit too much, at least for me,
aggressive than enamel paints different philosophy, they are model with acrylics, most of oils were and will continue to
which is actually a good thing in paints of course but function them can be relatively easily be the only way to go. So, as
our case as by airbrushing it on in a completely different way removed with alcohol or soapy almost all said above sounds
the model, solvent will melt an than enamels or lacquers. water and without damaging great, why do not we all use
ultra thin layer of model plastic Acrylic paints dry very fast you model. When it comes to acrylics only? When i first
and will actually fuse the paint and thus can often clog your brush painting, it is another started using acrylic paints my
to the model creating even airbrush if not diluted a bit more great deal as you can paint with experience was a mixed bag,
tougher paint finish. Lacquers, than other paints. Fast drying acrylics over acrylics after just one day it would all went great
even with short drying time, will is one of many good sides a few minutes with no chance and the next a disaster. I simply
not clog the airbrush if diluted of acrylics as you can spray of dissolving the paint beneath. could not get the proper paint
one to one paint to thinner one coat and handle it or use There is, in fact, one thing that to thinner ratio, my airbrush
ratio, thanks to excellent paint masks just a few minutes after i do not really like with acrylics kept clogging, many times
structure and flow properties as well as spray the next coat. and that is blending which the paint simply do not cover
lacquers are one of the best Another good side is the fact is used on figures, diorama the model well enough and
16 CHAPTER I - TOOLS AND MATERIALS

above all, paint surface was not acrylics as they are durable, it on no matter what you did to to fit imperfections and that
that tough as with enamels or easily applied and produce your model including washing those gaps are hard to spot on
lacquers. At present, i am using beautiful finish. As alternative it in warm soapy water, with unpainted model, it is advis-
acrylics for most of the time to common varnishes very nice point on the warm. If you have able apply the primer prior to
and i am more than happy with results can be achieved with spare time to stand by the painting. I am often using ordi-
them. So far, i have been using floor polishes as Future and kitchen sink with an old tooth nary grey paint for this task as
almost every single brand of Pronto, most easily applied brush in your hand to wash its main purpose is to point the
acrylic paints available on the with wide and soft brush and your model, maybe consider imperfections rather than to fill
market and achieved the best also resistant to oil washes. tidying your work table instead. them. Acrylic or lacquer paints
results with Life Color, Gunze It is advisable to seal finished Another interesting dilemma are the best solutions as they
Sangyo Mr. Hobby acrylics and models with two or three thin concerns primers and priming dry fast and are easy to sand.
Tamiya acrylics. coats of varnish especially of your model, do we have Priming your models prior to
if dry pastels are used for to do it and when we have to application of metalizers like
Varnishes weathering as they need to be do it. The main point of using Alclad, Mr. Metal Color and
Varnish is transparent, hard and sealed. If the model is painted primers is to make a better others is advisable although
protective finish or film primarily with metalizers, varnish is surface for the paint to come. it is not necessary, the main
used to seal and protect the not recommended primarily For some it is a must for others point is to level and smooth
painted surface, it is usually a because it will ruin your metal it is just another unnecessary the surface for better final paint
combination of a drying oil, a finish but also due to the fact step in the process. First surface results. Metalizers
resin, and a thinner or solvent. that it will not stick to some of of all, what is a primer? It is including Alclad will not craze
Originally transparent but may them especially to those that essentially a paint product or ruin the plastic and you
be designed to produce satin need buffing, like Model Master that allows finishing paint to can apply them directly on the
or semi-gloss and matt sheens and Gunze Sangyo metalizers. adhere much better than if model without priming it first.
by the addition of flatting Enamel Varnishes and white it were used alone. For this The best primers and micro
agents. Scale models are not paint tend to turn yellow over purpose, primer is designed fillers i have came across are
heavily handled or exposed time, to prevent this from to adhere to surfaces and to Gunze Sangyo Mr. Surfacer
to elements so in scale happening simply add a drop form a binding layer that is and Alclad II Primer and Micro
modelling varnishes are used of blue paint into the varnish or better prepared to receive the Filler.
as a barrier between different white paint, it will stay perfect paint. Because primers do not
paint type layers and as a forever. need to be engineered to have Conclusion
base for washes, weathering durable, finished surfaces, they We are now back to that ques-
and decal placement rather Before You Start can instead be engineered to tion about the best paint brand
than as protective finish. Most Painting have improved filling and bind- and type, let me tell you, there
commonly available as enamel, Many modellers propagate ing properties with the base is no such thing as the best
lacquer and acrylic based. the theory that you should and material underneath. Primers paint type or brand! All three
Due to better self levelling must wash your model with are used mainly on porous and main paint types mentioned
properties, varnishes are easily soapy water before you start water sensitive materials while above have their lows and
applied with both brushes and painting, well, i had never ever using it on surfaces made of highs and the best way to go
airbrushes, in two or three washed a single kit part and plastic is only necessary when is to combine them depending
coats for the best effect. When i cannot recall ever having a making a drastic change of on a specific task or situation.
used as a base for washes, problem. Kit parts may have colour, in example, if you want It is not the paint type that
varnish must be different some mould releasing agents to paint very dark plastic with makes a good modeller and
typethen the wash is so if you left on them but those are the light colours like white, yellow, airbrush artist but the time and
are using oil washes, varnish least of your worries. Same light green as those are known practice only. Take the best of
should be acrylic or lacquer. In applies for resin parts and for poor coverage ability. each and never stop experi-
my experience, i have found kits. If the paint is not properly Having in mind that plastic menting as that is the only way
the best varnishes to be from diluted and applied there is models are likely to have some to get results you have never
Life Color and Gunze Sangyo simply no magic that will keep gaps along the seam lines due achieved before.
I have found acrylic varnishes to be the best as they dry fast and produce perfect Primers, micro fillers and putties.
results every time. Mixing a little of gloss varnish with matt paint will improve its flow
properties and will airbrush easier.

Chapter II
TECHNIQUES
OIL TANKS
NON CYLINDRICAL TANKS there are a few more parts to scratchbuild. We will start section of our fist oil tank is
Scratchbuilding area around that would require. Junction with non-cylindrical oil tanks elongated circle and to get
the engine may look difficult boxes, controllers, filters like the one found in SBD that shape i am going to use
and challenging to some and connectors usually have Dauntless aircraft. Instead of one of the rollers from The
modellers but is actually very simple form whether it bending a piece of styrene Small Shop brass rolling set.
quite easy. Apart from is a cylinder or a cube so sheet and wrapping it around First, we will measure and cut
a whole bunch of wires, those does not really require the cylindrical object i will aluminium piece to be the
cables, tubes and hydraulic any special explanations or use a piece of aluminium same width as the tank. Start
lines which are easily done modelling instructions. Our sheet for two simple reasons, by bending aluminium piece
with various gauges of lead points of interest in this area styrene is elastic and would over the cylinder to the point
wires and plastic cables are hydraulic tanks as those be difficult to get the perfect when you get aluminium
from small electric devices can be a bit more difficult shape without heating boiling sheet ends run parallel.
or heating it, on the other At this point, we will move
Moving the metal cylinder hand aluminium sheet is the cylinder a bit away from
towards the point more plastic than elastic the bent part and toward the
number two will produce
elongated circle cross and once wrapped around marked number two. While
sections as can be seen a cylinder it will retain the holding the cylinder firmly
on the piece that has
been already bent.
perfectly round shape. Cross pressed to the table, we will
Convex oil tank side caps

made from aluminium
can be used for vacuum
forming styrene parts if
more desirable.
Process and the tools for

the tank scratchbuilding.
Dentists probe is used as a
sculpting tool.
18 CHAPTER II - TECHNIQUES

Finished aluminium oil tank still secured with the tape while magic sculpt is curing inside and Finished oil tank looks good and ready for painting, after a subtle
the kit tank which is wrong in both shape and size. weathering it will look excellent.
bend the point number two of excess around the part. Some glue can be used to fit the preferred method is turning it
aluminium sheet to the point sanding will be required to get caps as it is easy to clean up on lathe, it is easier, faster and
when two ends meet. When it fit into the tank shell perfectly with wet brush as opposed to the end result is better. Fully
cylinder is removed we should so keep checking the fit CA glue which can make this cured piece of Magic Sculpt
get elongated circle cross constantly. Once both convex a bit messy. Now, thin vinyl rolled to form the cylinder is
section while the elongation parts are done its time to fill strips can be used to simulate used as a starting piece.
will depend on how much we in the shell with Magic Sculpt fasteners, draining section I will first make a few shallow
have moved the cylinder from to give it strength. We will made of Magic Sculpt, a piece passes with turning tool to form
the first bending point toward apply it to the walls with small of styrene for the filler cap the perfect cylinder followed
the point number two. Cut amount at a time and distribute plate and we are done here. by further thinning of the piece
the excess of aluminium with it evenly with sculpting tool, at with constant stops to measure
scissors and smooth the seam the end simply fill in the rest. CYLINDRICAL TANKS its diameter with callipers. Once
by pressing it with something Before fitting the caps we will Cylindrical tanks, due to we get the desired diameter
flat while holding the cylinder fill them with Magic Sculpt as their cross section being we will proceed with sanding
inside the newly formed tank well to prevent any damages a circle are in many ways paper to get a perfectly smooth
shell to give it a proper support that may happen when fitting easier to scratchbuild than surface. In this stage while
while flattening the seam. them into the tank shell. To non-cylindrical ones. Using the piece is spinning it is the
Once we get a perfect shape allow the clay to cure fully we the process with bending of best thing to use wet sanding
we will secure it with a piece of will leave everything aside aluminium sheet over a cylinder to prevent overheating of the
masking tape to prepare it for for some twelve hours. White is one way to do it while my sanding paper.
the next step.
As the sides of oil tank are
convex our next step is to
place the shell on a 3mm thick
piece of styrene and tightly
outline its outer shape with a
pen. By drilling a couple of
holes we will continue the job
of cutting the shape by sharp
pointed knife and finish it off
with files and rolled sanding
paper. Making a convex tank
sides is now an easy thing, we
will place a piece of aluminium
0.25mm thick over the styrene
piece with opening and secure
it with masking tape on the
sides. Top press the aluminium
trough the opening we will
apply a small amount of soap
to its surface and then start
burnishing it down with the
thumb. Take your time and
keep going until you see the
edges of the opening clearly
showing on aluminium as we
will use those lines our cutting Rolled Magic Sculpt pieces are just a perfect material for turning by being rigid, temperature resistant and with great machining
guide when removing the properties. Before anything else a few layers of material are removed first to get a perfect cylinder.

Chapter II
TECHNIQUES
Convex cap of the tank is nicely done

with just a few passes with the tool.
After removing a few layers of material our lathe is reconfigured for making convex end to the cylinder. Pivot point position is essential for the curvature of the end part.
section of the tank with folding

lines marked in red. To get a
straight folding line, a few very
light passes with sharp pointed
knife are made along the red
lines. Seams are then glued
with Tamiya extra thin cement
from the inside followed by
a light sanding of the edges
from the outside. Once the
square section is in place, rest
of the details are made with
Magic Sculpt and shaped with
wet brush. Filler cap pattern is
Once cut to appropriate length the other end of Compass cutter is used to cut perfect circles in the styrene sheet with the tank achieved by simply pressing
the tanks is machined. Red marker line is very radius used as a measure. Note the red guides marking the bending line. Lightly
visible while the piece is turning allowing a high scoring the lines with sharp pointed knife will make a perfectly straight bend. the allen screw head on a
accuracy in sizing the piece to its final length. Fit is nice and tight. piece of Magic Sculpt while still
being soft.
Convex side of the tank is versa. With just a few swings repeated to make the other
quite an easy thing to achieve of the tool, followed with some convex side to it. The whole
with Metal Line lathe by using wet sanding and our convex process takes as little as
a turning table as a pivot part of the tank is done. Width 20 minutes.
for turning tool. For smaller of the tank is then measured Compass cutter and sharp
curvature of the cut we will and marked, cut either with pointed knife are used to cut
move the turning tool away cutting tool on the lathe or by 0.25mm thin styrene sheet in a
from the pivot point and vice saw and the previous step is shape that will form the square
Any part is simple enough to be scratchbuilt with ease once divided into simple subassemblies. Apply small pieces of soft Magic
Sculpt on the tank surface and shape it with wet brush to create oil line connectors. Round and flat brushes are great tools for
shaping Magic Sculpt especially when moisten with water.
20 CHAPTER II - TECHNIQUES

INSTRUMENT PANELS
Main instrument panel piece looks flat and uninteresting as opposed to the lower The difference between pre-painted photo etched parts and the ones we have just
section already painted with fine round brush. painted is obvious. Screen printing also produces a surface that seems to have a thick
layer of dust on it. Note the lower piece dials and the print offset shifted to the left.
I
n a never ending quest panels are one step up from so it is only natural to analyze wrong more often than not.
for that perfect looking the kit parts but those are often both. Pre-painted photo etched Apart from the questionable
instrument panel i still out of scale. Personally, parts can seem like a best colours, we can also notice
have tried pretty much i have found photo etched option, well they are already that some printed elements
everything with more or instruments to be the best way painted if nothing else and are actually shifted to the side
less satisfying results. Kit to go with very fine details, will save us some time and from metal surface details, a
instrument panels are either raised and recessed surfaces eyes but what happens when printing offset that gives the
styrene or clear plastic and and clean openings. Further, we give them a closer look? part a bit funny look. Last
those can often be good but two options are available, Immediately noticeable are the thing with pre-painted photo
not good enough. Resin cast pre-painted and bare metal colours which are somehow etched parts is of course the
A great thing about the dials printed

on glossy transparent film is a perfect
simulation of the glass covers. No
need for tricks and drops of gloss
paint, nice and neat.

Chapter II
TECHNIQUES
angle of approximately 15 to
30 degrees, almost parallel to
the surface you are painting.
Important thing to remember
is that we are not painting
with the brush tip but rather
with brush sides as that is the
easiest way to prevent brush
hairs to slip of the tiny raised
surface we are painting.
Rest of the details are
painted with corresponding
colours in the same manner
as the highlights. As for the
placard writings, white paint
and a brush with very fine tip
is used in short wavy strokes
made horizontal to simulate the
text lines. Once we are done
with brush painting the next
Finished instrument panels look very lifelike and step would be to attach the
busy even being as small as a thumb nail. back panel with the dials by
using small amounts of white
glue distributed as tiny dots on
print itself which is rather dusty Eduards Bf-109E. raised details to get more of the areas between the dials.
and grainy even when from the To start off, dark grey is a three dimensional look. If As the last thing, handles are
distance. Now, the best and airbrushed on instrument panel you look at reference photos attached with cyanoacrylate
only remaining options is to parts as well as two layers of of instrument panels you will cement and these parts are
take bare metal photo etched white at the back side of clear notice that raised rings around ready to be installed in the
instrument panel and paint it foil with dials. From this point, the dials have highlighted cockpit. When it comes to
ourselves, it is easy, quick and all we need is a fine pointed edge and so we are going fiddly bits and things try not
the end result will be absolutely brush for painting the details. to simulate highlights by to use pre-painted parts, take
superior to anything else. I am With the basic dark grey applying lighter grey to those your time and do your own
going to demonstrate some of colour applied, everything now raised rings. When painting painting, you will be surprised
my techniques on Aires photo looks too flat and to change very small and fine details with the results.
etched instrument panel for the that, we have to enhance try to keep your brush at an
ACCESS PANELS
C
utting trough the kit are going through, the thing a guide to outline the panel. strip the hard part is to keep
parts and opening which requires a bit of time Once done with outlining, we the strip width consistent
access panels can and patience. will transfer the tape to a piece especially when the entire
seem hard and scary Before we start drilling of 0.25mm thick styrene sheet part is very small. Thin strip
but that is really where all the trough the plastic part to to make the panel cover and of masking tape will help do
fun starts as its not about make the opening, we must inner fastener strip. Here, we the trick. First, place the strip
just assembling anymore outline the panel on a piece will use a sharp pointed blade along the outline from inside
but making something that of masking tape first to use to lightly score the panel line of the shape, follow the outline
was not there, from scratch. it for cutting out the panel drawn on the tape. To make by gently pressing the strip
Important thing to remember is cover and inner strip later. the things easier for handling, down with your index finger
that we are working with plastic Small, square piece of Tamiya we are going to cut out the while holding and curving the
and almost any mess-up can masking tape is placed over inner section first, hence just strip with precision tweezers.
be fixed, filled and sanded, its the panel, then gently draw scoring the outline. Tape is Masking strips are flexible
not a rocket science really. The across the masking piece with now removed and stored for enough to follow any curved
only tricky thing here is making sharp pointed lead pencil to later use when we get to the line so this trick can be used
the thin inner strip of the find recessed panel line and panel cover. on variety of similar tasks and
opening where the fasteners once we find it we will use it as When making fastener in cases when we need any
22 Chapter II - TECHNIQUES

A piece of Tamiya masking tape and a lead pencil are used to mark the
panel shape. Sharpen the pencil core by rubbing it against fine sanding
paper to get crisp and accurate results.
apply very small amount of

Tamiya extra thin cement from
the inside of the fuselage half.
As the cement is very thin,
capillary force will make it run
along the seam without making
a mess. Further, fine touch-ups
and adjustments of the part
can be made before we leave
Sharp pointed blade is used just to score Thin strip of masking tape is flexible Even though the part is only 5mm across it aside for an hour to cure.
the shape on styrene sheet as cutting it enough to conform to any shape. Once it looks nice and accurate, well worth When the cement is fully cured
trough at this point will make the part the strip is down, gently press adjust it the time and effort.
difficult to handle when cutting out the on the styrene to for nicer final result. everything will be sanded from
inner section. the outside of fuselage half to
make the seam smoother.
kind of guides. Once we get score the inside shape of the accommodate the part we just In some cases, when we
correct shape a little touch up tape with several light passes, made. Start by drilling a few have photo-etched access
is done by using fine pointed again requires patience and holes trough the panel and panel frame, it is somewhat
tweezers to gently nudge and time but it is worth every effort. then simply connect the holes difficult to position it perfectly
press masking strip to follow I will now remove the tape and by cutting the area between mainly because those parts
the outline tightly. This task cut it trough by using scored them with sharp pointed blade. are ultra thin, rigid and
requires patience more than cut line as a guide. Once the The same blade is then used smooth which makes them
anything else so if you do not inner piece is out, fine sanding to touch up the edges with difficult to glue as well. I will
get it from the first time, do it paper tightly rolled is used to the panel line as our guide. take Eduards Bf-109E and
again. At this point we have sort out the edges and smooth Trim the plastic with blade Aires photo-etched radio
two options, to cut the inner the cut. It is best to drill the almost to the panel line and access frame and door as
section of the shape using holes for fasteners now and then continue with fine sanding an example. To fit the panel
the tape strip as a guide or before we cut out the entire paper tightly wrapped around frame we would need to thin
to mark it with pen and then piece simply because it is the metal rod or round file. the plastic part around the
cut it out, either way is fine easier. A few light passes with Sand the excess material with opening to avoid huge step
as the job needs to be done sharp pointed blade along the light and consistent strokes but between the plastic and photo-
slowly and carefully anyway. outline will do the job and out constantly keep checking the etched part as that areas was
I am using the tape strip as part is ready. fit of the part we made earlier. almost flush on the real aircraft
a guide as its faster. Sharp Our next task is to cut out Once the fit is perfectly tight with barely visible difference
pointed blade is used to gently the opening on the kit part to we will dry-fit the part and then between the frame and the rest

Chapter II
TECHNIQUES
Drilling a number of holes trough the plastic is one of Drilling holes along the panel line makes it easier for us Once we trim the excess with the blade a set of various
the easiest and fastest ways of making the opening. to trim the excess material. tools is used to smooth the edges. Files are used right
It is better to use smaller drill bits for this job as they after the blade and then we will smooth the edges
provide better accuracy, especially important when with fine sanding paper wrapped around metal tube,
working with small openings. especially good for rounded corners.
Not all fastener holding frames are done in one piece, Different openings require a bit different approach for Basic electric junction box is being made from styrene
in this example of Airacobra wing we are using styrene each. Note just partial fastener holders on the radio sheet and various styrene sections still awaiting lead
strips of different length for each section of the opening, far right hand side. and copper wires to be added. The box has been made
opening. larger than the opening as more of it will be visible
when looked from different angles.
Opened access panel

always tend to add more
life and depth to a model.
Opening all those panels
and making whats inside
them takes time and
patience but the result
pays off.

Photo etched part is positioned and secured in place with a single piece of masking Some gaps have been filled, everything sanded smooth and ready for masking and
tape. Gently pressing it with hot soldering iron will melt the plastic and fuse the two painting.
parts together.
of the fuselage. Once scale to will make the fuselage opening the fuselage. We will start moving the hot tip around.
32nd scale, we should pretty slightly larger than the photo- from the corner and will move Good idea would be to try this
much make the two sections etched opening but smaller soldering iron tip for roughly with some spare photo-etched
be on the same level with no than its outer dimensions. 2mm each time until we get parts and spare plastic pieces.
recessed areas. I will use a Tamiya masking tape is now to the point where we started. When metal part is finally fused
simple trick with soldering used to accurately position Keep the soldering iron in to the plastic we will sand the
iron to achieve this. Before and secure the part on the contact with photo etched part surface smooth and its ready
going further please note that fuselage. It is important to use for at most one second at a for painting. All we need now
soldering iron is very hot and Tamiya or similar paper tape time otherwise we can melt the is to make the paint mask for
can burn your skin or melt the here as they are heat resistant fuselage beyond repair. The which we will use photo-etched
plastic parts if not handled and will not melt when we point here is to slowly impress door as a guide. First the
very carefully. First, make the start heating the photo-etched the metal part into the plastic interior paint will be applied to
opening on the fuselage where part, vinyl cannot be used. fuselage so they are both at the frame and then protected
the radio access doors are With everything in place we the same level and to do it with paint masks. Once the
marked by using the same can heat up soldering iron evenly it is important to touch model is painted and mask
method with drilling holes and and begin by gently pressing the part with soldering iron in removed we will get the perfect
cutting, explained before. We photo-etched part against short intervals with constantly looking radio access opening.
INTRODUCTION TO
PAINT MASKS
P
retty much all application of the decals been and currently are the marks and various servicing
markings featured in while the paint masks are most popular way of marking stencils would be impossible
this book have been something relatively small scale models for a few good to achieve without waterslide
painted by using paint number of modellers use reasons. First and foremost, or dry transfer decals. As for
masks and before you come and many more are afraid of, every scale model that we buy the low points, there are plenty
to the point where their use with no good reason actually. comes with the decal sheet of those as well. Quality of
is explained, i would like to With the decals and masks with markings for one or more the decals is something we
make an introduction for more being two different means for aircraft. Decals also provide are never sure of, the print
in depth overview of masking achieving the same thing it is fast and clean way of marking quality can vary from good
materials, performance and only natural to make a short application, all you have to do solid colour to ultra thin and
high and low points. comparison between the two it to get them wet and apply translucent, colour shades
There is no much point and try to find highs and lows them on the model. Ultra small are sometimes off and there
explaining the use and on each. Decals have always elements like pilot names, kill is nothing you can do about

Chapter II
TECHNIQUES
it, carrier film can be brittle chipping or scratching and materials for die cut masks for small and more detailed
and crack as soon as we try will never produce silvering are vinyl and yellow rice masking elements. Another
to position the decal on the regardless of the surface paper tape often referred to interesting masking material
model, thickness is another condition they were painted as Kabuki tape. Specially is rice paper tape known as
issue if the decal need to on. After all, markings on real developed for masking Kabuki, the same material
conform to a curved surface, aircraft were also applied purposes, semi transparent Tamiya masking tapes are
adhesive being too weak and with paint masks. Using paint vinyl is flexible, easy to use made of. This ultra thin, paper
so on. masks is easy and convenient and thanks to its low tack like material is flexible, will
When it comes to paint way to achieve great results. water based adhesive, very never shrink and can be stored
masks the situation is a With everything above said it safe for any kind of painted for years. For those wanting to
bit different but still not the seems like paint masks are the surface. Flexibility will allow it make their own masks Kabuki
ultimate or perfect solution for perfect solution for all of our to conform on curved surfaces, is perfect as it can be used
applying markings. For a start, troubles, or are they? Painting transparency will make it much in any laser printer, once the
paint mask give us the ability larger elements with masks easier for accurate positioning masking pattern has been
to control the colour which is easy and effective, same on the model and water based printed on it all you have to do
is actually a huge advantage goes for smaller but simpler adhesive will not lift the paint or is to follow the print lines with
over decals. Paint masks, if elements. Problems start with leave any residue on painted sharp pointed scalpel. The
carefully stored, can be reused small elements as unit badges, surface. Due to its structure, only problem with this masking
a couple of times which is letter and numbers smaller vinyl is perfect for very fine material is a fact that it is made
another huge advantage over than 2mm or 3mm in height and complicated cuts with of tiny rice fibres which makes
decals or dry transfers. Using and similar more complicated lots of detail but still, vinyl has it impossible to cut masking
paint masks does involve a things. With today's technology a major drawback, it shrinks! elements smaller than 5mm
bit more work as each colour it is possible to cut almost Once cut, vinyl will retain its with accurate results. Now, we
of masking element must be indefinitely small masking shape and form for some 24 have a clear picture, vinyl for
separately masked of and elements but since it would to 48 hours depending on small masking shapes while
painted but the end results are be impossible to apply them, the size of masking elements, Kabuki is just perfect for all
superior to any kind of decals. those would be pretty much after that it will start shrinking elements larger than 5mm. By
No surface preparation is need useless. and creating gaps along the combining the two materials,
for painting with masks as Also, we need to overview cut lines making it unusable we have precision cut paint
long as the paint layer below is an important factor in mask for most of the part. Shrinking masks good for all element
properly cured. Once painted, performance and ease of factor is minimal or not present sizes and shape, with no
markings can be easily use, a material they are made at all on shapes smaller than shrinkage!
weathered by sanding, paint of. Currently, most popular 10mm which makes it perfect
Just hours from being cut vinyl is already shrinking and exposing white backing paper. In case when we have to use more than one masking
element on the model we would not be able to get a good fit which can result in paint getting in the areas between the two masks.

Chapter III
BUILDING THE AIRCRAFT
SPITFIRE MK. IXc

Chapter III
SPITFIRE MK. IXc

Kit summary
Tamiya has pushed limits once again with their marvel of a kit Supermarine Spitfire in 1:32nd scale, a kit so smartly
engineered and well detailed it simply cannot fail to impress you in every possible way no matter how picky you can be!
To start from heart of the beast, Rolls-Royce Merlin power plant is probably the nicest and most detailed part of all the
injection moulded kits i have ever seen and for sure better than some aftermarket resin engines too. Being a kit for itself,
the engine will take a weekend of your time but considering a level of detail and the fact that it will be all visible at the
end, it is worth the effort. Cockpit is just as nicely done but would require some wiring to go from excellent to perfect.
Kit exterior surface features very intricate recessed panel lines and rivets, nothing out of scale. Other nice features are
hinged moving surfaces, magnet attaching of the cowling panels and screw system for attaching the landing gear and
engine. With just a few more parts there could be option to display the front upper fuel tank and the radio hatch opened
but to be honest, that would just spoil all the fun of scratchbuilding.
28 BUILDING THE AIRCRAFT - SPITFIRE MK. IXc


Chapter III
BUILDING THE AIRCRAFT - SPITFIRE MK. IXc
BEFORE WE START
Aftermarket sets used in this build:
BarracudaCast - 32001 Spitfire Seat with
Leather Backpad
BarracudaCast - 32002 Spitfire Cockpit Door
with Separate Crowbar
BarracudaCast - 32003 Spitfire Cockpit
Upgrade Set
Maketar Paint Masks - 32040 RAF
Supermarine Spitfire MK.IX
Tools and materials:

Cyanoacrylate glue
Tamiya cement
Tamiya extra thin cement
Scalpel and tweezers Unimat wood turning chisel is simply the best tool for thinning out plastic parts thanks to its curved
sharp tip.
Drilling pin vise
Masking tape in various widths
BluTack
Sanding sticks and files
Mr. Surfacer 500 and/or Mr. Surfacer 1000
Pacer Formula 560 - Canopy Glue
Styrene sheet in various size and thickness
Lead, copper and flexible wire
Paints used:
Artist oils:
Burnt Umber
Black
White
Yellow
LifeColor acrylic paints:

LifeColor LC27 Matt Clear
Radio access door frame ready to be glued to the fuselage. Slightly rounded corners will help to get
UA207 Schwarzgrau tighter fit without any gaps between the frame and fuselage.
UA205 Rotbraun
LC06 Matt Red
LC03 Matt Yellow
THE BUILD Apart from the kit parts, we are going
UA511 Hellgrun
UA208 Anthrazitgrau
It is not a strict rule to start working to add some wiring to the cockpit
UA046 Neutral Grey from the cockpit but i find it rather walls, scratchbuild the back section
UA028 Grey logical as this way we can mate the of instrument panel, open up the
LC01 Matt White two fuselage halves together as soon radio hatch and add radio receiver.
UA524 US Neutral Grey as the interior is done and continue We will start with opening the radio
UA605 Dunkelgrau working on the exterior assembly. hatch to avoid too much handling of
UA095 Sky
Tamiya acrylic paints:

X-1 Gloss Black
XF-2 Flat White
XF-3 Flat Yellow
XF-7 Flat Red
XF-8 Flat Blue
XF-53 Neutral Grey
XF-58 Olive green
XF-60 Dark Yellow
XF-62 Olive Drab
XF-63 German Grey
XF-65 Field Grey
Humbrol acrylic paints:

Matt clear cote - aerosol
Rib sections and radio receiver holder glued in place.
30 BUILDING THE AIRCRAFT - SPITFIRE MK. IXC

We have made just the sections which would be visible once the radio is in.
piece of tape on 0.25mm of the opening just like on the

styrene sheet. If we cut the real Spitfire, once done it will
opening on the styrene sheet look busier and more realistic.
now by scoring marked line The same 0.25mm styrene
Basically just a few details will make This view shows more of the radio holder on the tape with sharp pointed sheets is used to cut the rough
a lot of difference and your model to L section. knife, we would get the access shape of the fuselage and
stand out.
door and to get the frame then sanded and dry-fitted a
the fuselage halves once we and cutting our way outward we actually need to make couple of times until we get a
start adding the wires. As the which is rather easier way. the opening smaller than the nice fit. Here again, 3mm wide
fuselage wall is rather thick Once we drill a couple of holes door. First, we will lay some masking strip is laid to follow
we need to thin it first and the it is easy to connect them with masking tape on the cutting the curve of newly made part
best tool to do so is modellers sharp pointed knife and then surface and by using ruler and and to help us get consistent
chisel or in this case, Unimat carefully continue by cutting sharp knife cut 1mm strips. width of the rib section.
MetalLine woodturning chisel. small amounts of plastic at a Masking strip is now carefully Before we cut the section out,
Start by scraping inside time and once you come to laid inside of the marked panel a couple of 2mm holes are
section of the wall roughly the panel line continue with line on the piece of tape we drilled to along the rib part.
10mm around the hatch to get fine grain sanding paper to placed on styrene sheet earlier. Since the cross section of
large enough flat surface to smooth corners and edges of Be patient and careful to get fuselage is slightly different
accommodate hatch frame. the hatch opening. Steel rod a neat bend of the masking on each side of the opening,
Extra care must be taken here wrapped with fine sanding strip as that strip is actually we will repeat the process to
as we do not want to thin the paper is the best tool for width of our hatch frame. Once make second rib part instead
wall too much and to ruin rounded corners. Next thing masking strip is on, sharp of just copying the first one. To
the part so after every few is to make inner frame of the pointed X-Acto knife is used finish the radio bay we need to
scraps with the chisel check hatch opening, that is where to carefully cut the opening make two 'L' shaped rails on
the progress by placing the the access door is fastened by using masking strip as a each side of the door as those
part in front of the light bulb to, First, we place a piece of guide, it is even better to cut a are holding the radio receiver
and by looking through it, masking tape over the hatch bit away of masking strip and in place. 3mm wide styrene
more transparent the section opening from the outside of to touch it up with sanding strip is used for lover section
is means it is thinner. Once we fuselage half leaving roughly paper afterward. Dry fitting the and the same strip with drilled
are done with the chisel, sand 10mm of the tape around the frame is necessary to align holes for sides. Side strip is cut
the surface smooth. Next step opening, then mark the line everything properly and to at an angle so that one end
is cutting the radio hatch out on the tape by gently rubbing ensure best result at the end. is wider than the other while
either by using sharp pointed graphite pencil on the edge With the radio door frame the holes are drilled to follow
modelling knife and working of panel opening until we get now in its place we would this geometry. With everything
over recessed panel line or by a clear line of the panel. We need to make two rib sections positioned and glued our radio
drilling holes through the panel will now transfer that marked that would go on either side bay is finished and we can

Chapter III
Level and quality of the details out of the box is amazing, however, a few wires and cables are necessary to make it complete.
the job. There is no too much to measure. Small pieces of

philosophy here, small holes copper wire are now inserted
drilled to accommodate and on both ends and will help us
better hold the wires when secure the hose to the wall
appropriate, CA glue applied and oxygen bottle.
sparingly with the toothpick By the time i have finished
and we are pretty much done. adding all the wiring to the
When the glue is cured, gently cockpit walls an idea of
press the wires with fine exposing upper fuel tank
pointed tweezers co conform seemed more and more
them on the wall bumps. A tempting and interesting so
few dry-fit tests are necessary i have decided to go with it.
when adding wires to the Removing sections of fuselage
cockpit as the fit without them halves should be, indeed,
is perfect and we want to avoid done before anything has
mess-ups later. Oxygen hose been done on the cockpit walls
Copper, lead and plastic wrapped wires are used to make the cockpit wall busy and is missing in the kit so we must simply to avoid any mess but
realistic.
make one. Plastic wrapped it should not be a problem
wire is first stretched between either way. Upper fuel tank
move to the cockpit walls. In our case, when we want to two fingers and the lead wire cover is slightly raised from the
Since the kit parts for the add more details and wiring is wrapped around it tightly to rest of the airframe and it is
cockpit are detailed and crisp to the walls this is not the best simulate flexible hose surface. actually very easy to cut it out.
enough we will only be adding or easiest way to go, instead When we get desired length Sharp pointed curved blade
a few wires here and there and we will glue the wall sections of the hose, both ends will be is used for the job, first make
a few resin bits from Barracuda to the fuselage before doing glued with CA glue and cut a few light pressure passes
Studios. Kit instructions are the rest. It is a good idea to
suggesting that we should have your reference photos
paint and assemble the cockpit and books at hand at this
wall sections separately that stage to help position all the
is, lower wall section should wires and lines at the right
be first mated with the rest of places. Copper wire and
cockpit elements before finally various gauges of plastic Thin lead wire wrapped around a flexible wire makes a perfect oxygen hose.
being glued to the fuselage. wrapped wires are used for

The best tool for accurate and
along the line where the fuel clean cuts and the fuel tank cover
tank cover meets the fuselage cut out from the fuselage. Note
the red line marking the point up
to make a good guide and then to which the fuel tank goes.
a few passes of the knife with a
little pressure applied will do it.
Once the fuel cover section is
removed a fine sanding paper is
used to smooth the cut line.
With everything done on the
fuselage halves we will move
to the cockpit interior. Since we
are now making the aircraft with
fuel tank cover removed, some
further amends of the kit parts
are needed. First thing that will
be visible behind upper fuel tank
is the back of instrument panel
with all the wires, cables and
gauges, none of it present in the
kit so we will have to make it.
Also, since we are introducing
a fuel tank, some of the parts
will have to be removed to
accommodate the tank in that
space. Kit instrument panel and
New instrument panel backside
if just perfect but we have to which we have made from the
remove everything behind it and styrene sheets with gauges and
make new back panel which all the wiring in place.
will then hold the instrument
panel. We will use the kit part
to outline its shape on styrene
sheet and cut a new one out
of it, basically we will have the
lower section with rudder pedals
and instrument panel separated.
New instrument panel backside
which we have made from the
styrene sheets will now get all
the gauges made from various
radius styrene rod sections.
Each gauge will then get a
small extension made from a lot
smaller radius styrene rod, which
is where the wires and cables
will go into. To better position
and secure the wires, we will drill
a hole in each gauge extension.
Copper, lead as well as plastic
wrapped wires are used here
for a few reasons, copper and
lead wire is used for rigid lines
as those can be easily bent and
curved while the soft plastic
wrapped wires are used for
rubber cables and lines which
have a non linear or non uniform
shape.
Once painted with dark grey and

all the beautiful details of the
instrument panel backside come to
life. Simple but effective.

Chapter III
Fine pointed brush is used for all the little details to help White or wood glue which dries clear is used to secure Hand painted details on the instrument panel and the
create three dimensional and busy look. For best results the decal on the back of the instrument panel. Front decals with dials will make it look superb once finished.
without over-painting surrounding areas keep the brush side of the decal has been covered with transparent
almost parallel with the part surface while painting. tape to represent the dial glass covers.
With everything in place, of medium coarse sanding is painting the front side of painting done next step is to
two thin coats of LifeColor paper and start sliding the instrument panel as explained sort out the dials. Tamiya has
UA207 Schwarzgrau are part over it, back side of the in previous chapter, fine made a very smart choice here
applied as that will be our final part of course. Try to change pointed brush is used for all with the decals which look like
colour for these parts. The direction with every stroke to the little details to help create plain black dots on the decal
details are now more visible prevent thinning it too much three dimensional and busy sheet due to the fact that dials
and looking good except on the edges, also try to press look. For best results without are painted on the bottom
for one thing, instrument it down with equal pressure. over-painting surrounding side, so no panic. Decals that
panel kit part is now too thick Check the part thickness after areas keep the brush almost come with this kit are more
and we will need to sand it every few strokes, 0.2 - 0.3mm parallel with the part surface than bad and i really hope it is
down. Take a larger sheet thickness will do. Our next task while painting. With the only my kit with this problem.
Back side with wires and gauges is brush

painted in a few shades of grey and brown
followed by light grey highlights applied at
the top edges of gauges and top sides of
wires and cables. Highlights are important
for better visual appearance just as much
as wash or shading.

Primer coat is airbrushed
on all cockpit elements
to cover different colours
we got with added wires,
metal and resin parts.
Rigid, fragile and almost no are glued together with Tamiya

adhesive are just some of the cement used sparingly and
things i have noticed here. To away from areas with decals,
fix this problem i am going to two or three tiny drops are
use clear tape placed over the more than enough. Centre front
decal face and then cut it to section is raised with a piece
shape, this will have two effects, of styrene sheet and the dial
first the tape will represent panel is fixed to it with white
the glass on the dials and will or wood glue to prevent decal
reinforce the decal. Also, we damage. Our instrument panel
are not going to use clear parts is now done and ready to be
supplied in the kit for instrument installed later.
panel. Fine pointed brush is Primer coat is now airbrushed
Centre front section is raised with a piece of styrene sheet and the dial
panel is fixed to it with white or wood glue to prevent decal damage. used to apply and distribute on all cockpit elements to
evenly white glue on the back cover all the different colours
of instrument panel part where we got with added wires, metal
our over-taped decals will be and resin parts. Acrylic green
placed. After nicely positioning paints are known for their poor
each decal w will set it aside for coverage and we would need
an hour or so before joining the to airbrush a few thicker layers
two parts of instrument panel on in order to cover all colour
together. In a meanwhile, back variations and get even and
side with wires and gauges is consistent green surface so the
brush painted in a few shades primer coat is very important
of grey and brown followed by here, even a grey acrylic paint
light grey highlights applied at will do. Pilot seat is our next
the top edges of gauges and step, beautifully detailed and
top sides of wires and cables. casted by BarracudaCast,
Highlights are important for much better option that the
Finished instrument panel is well detailed and ready to be fitted in the better visual appearance just kit seat. Primer or grey paint
cockpit later on. as much as wash or shading. is applied first followed by
Finally, front and back panel two coats of LifeColor UA205

Chapter III
Rotbraun. The seat now looks lifetime it is a good idea to go

too brown and to get the with more expensive ones for
correct shade we will airbrush their superb quality.
a thin coat of LifeColor LC06 As i am going to use oils
Matt Red which is somewhat for the rest of the cockpit
translucent as a result of elements a proper light green
poor coverage properties, paint has been made by
this will make our job easier mixing LifeColor LC03 Matt
and also give us the perfect Yellow and LifeColor UA511
colour at the end. For the final Hellgrun in 2 to 5 ratio. When
makeup, Burnt Umber artist oil mixing paints make sure to
is diluted to the consistency get enough of the mixture
of melted butter and applied as we will use that later as
with large soft brush over the well. Two light coats of our
entire seat. Once the piece green are now airbrushed on
is covered in oil, use a clean cockpit walls and the rest of
soft brush and keep brushing the cockpit elements. Before
until you cannot see any brush we start brush painting small
LifeColor UA205 Rotbraun is airbrushed on the seat and followed by a thin coat of
LC06 Matt Red to make a perfect base colour for overall oil wash. strokes visible and the entire elements and details, subtle
surface is smooth and even. shading and fading is done
Wipe the brush after every few with Tamiya acrylic paints
strokes to remove excess oil to enhance all the beautiful
faster and better. Highlights details of the cockpit and to
are now created by applying get more three dimensional
small dots of white artist oil look. First, Tamiya X-1 Gloss
to raised surfaces which is Black is highly diluted with
then blended in with clean medical alcohol in 1 part of
and dry brush. When blending paint to 9 parts of alcohol
artist oils over artist oils use ratio. Important thing here
gentle stubbing motions with is to use alcohol instead of
the brush to get very soft and Tamiya thinner or water for
smooth transitions between one simple reason, alcohol
the two colours. Set everything evaporates very fast and since
aside for a day or so for oils to the paint is highly diluted
cure. Artist oils dry by oxidation this fast evaporation will
instead of evaporation as allow it to dry instantly when
modelling paints do and thus airbrushed from very close
Burnt Umber artist oil is diluted to the consistency of melted butter and applied with oil drying time can range range instead of running all
large soft brush over the entire seat. Once the piece is covered in oil, use a clean soft from a few days up to a few over the surface if we have
brush and keep brushing until you cannot see any brush strokes visible and the entire
surface is smooth and even. months. I am always using used water or original thinner.
enamel thinner to thin oils Shading is done from very
which make them dry much close range, keep the airbrush
faster and do not smell even nozzle 5 - 10mm above the
as close as bad as turpentine. surface, make the air flowing
Beautiful thing about working at all times and release very
with oils is their drying time small amounts of paint by
which allows us to mix and pulling the airbrush trigger just
blend them on a model for a a tiny bit backwards. I have
longer period. Oils diluted with found the best results to be if
enamel thinners will dry in one sprayed at 2 bar (22-23 PSI)
or two days depending on how pressure. Good thing with
much thinner we use. When many airbrush guns these
buying artist oils you really days is the locking system at
need just a few: white, black, the back of it which is used to
red, blue, yellow, burnt umber, limit the trigger movement. To
burnt sienna and that is pretty test the paint flow and adjust
much everything we need to the locking system, we will use
mix any colour we would ever a sheet of paper and make
need. Since those will last for a a few runs with the airbrush
When blending artist oils over artist oils use gentle stubbing motions with the brush to
get very soft and smooth transitions between the two colours.

over it, keep the distance us more three dimensional overdone so check your work
between 5 - 10mm and keep appearance. after each pass of the airbrush
going until you get very narrow Next thing is fading of the until you are satisfied with the
black paint trail similar to one surfaces between the raised results. Our goal is to make
made with the pencil. Once details and cockpit wall lines. subtle variations which will
we get nice, sharp and narrow To avoid getting too much of be a base for further steps
paint trail we are ready to start a contrast we will use highly in painting. Lead pencil is
shading the cockpit. Shading diluted Tamiya XF-60 Dark now used to accentuate dark
is done around all the raised Yellow in just one or two light lines and edges where flat Lead pencil is used for tiny scratches
details mainly to accentuate passes over those surfaces. surfaces meet raised details, and for enhancing recessed lines and
corners.
the shadows and thus give This process is very easily we can also use it to make
scratches and paints chips
where appropriate, although i
sometimes use dark grey paint
for this job. Finishing one by
one of the cockpit elements
starts with oxygen bottles. To
get more details out of the
simple kit part the first thing
we will do is to paint on some
placards. Masking strips or A drop or two of yellow is mixed with
base green and brushed on edges and
hand cut square mask can raised details for more three dimensional
be used to airbrush LifeColor appearance.
Subtle shading and fading is done with Tamiya acrylic paints to enhance all the
beautiful details of the cockpit and to get more three dimensional look.
Main cockpit elements after shading and fading process is done. Fading
is done with very diluted Tamiya XF-60 Dark Yellow.

Chapter III
Masking strips or hand cut square mask Dark grey is airbrushed and ready to get Fine pointed brush and light white paint To finish, we will apply diluted Burnt
can be used to paint placards. the final touch, the text. are now used for placard text. Note the Umber artist oils and treat it with clean
scratches which further adds to the final dry brush until we get smooth surface
appearance. free of any brush strokes. Connecting
pipes at the top are now painted with
Gunze Sangyo MC218 Aluminium.
UA207 Schwarz Grau on. to become dark grey. Fine horizontal lines to represent Anthrazitgrau, a few random
Try not to use black paint as pointed brush and light white the writings. You can also use irregular shapes and splotches
there is nothing absolutely paint are now used for placard red paint for some parts of the are painted here and there.
black from the moment aircraft text. Use white paint diluted text. Scratches on the bottles To finish, we will apply diluted
leaves the factory, first layer 1 to 1, wipe the brush on are done with fine pointed Burnt Umber artist oils and
of dust will make the black paper towel and make dotted brush and LifeColor UA208 treat it with clean dry brush
The rest of the cockpit details are now brush painted and some random paint chipping and scratches done with Anthrazitgrau. All the tiny bits brush painted, note the writings on
some of the details done by fine pointed brush and white paint.

Importance of detail painting
is obvious here, right hand side
cockpit wall looks busy and
lifelike while the floor and behind
the seat section looks boring and
featureless in spite of the great
surface details present.
until we get smooth surface more depth. Burnt Umber is free of visible brush strokes. between colours. Again, wipe
free of any brush strokes. diluted to roughly the same Small amount of white artist the brush clean after every few
Connecting pipes at the top consistency of LifeColor paints oil is then applied on surfaces seconds to remove the excess
are now painted with Gunze and applied over the entire between raised details and oil paint. At this stage we will
Sangyo MC218 Aluminium. cockpit wall are with large flat blended in with clean dry also use small amounts of
The rest of the cockpit brush, gently to avoid any brush by using gentle stubbing green artist oil on some areas
details are now brush painted parts breaking off. Again, large motions. Wiping or classic to create more green colour
and some random paint flat, clean and dry brush is brushing motion is not good variation since blending white
chipping and scratches done used to remove the excess for blending oils as it will over Burnt Umber is toned
with Anthrazitgrau. To make the oil from the cockpit wall with basically move the paint from down green shades. Repeat
cockpit look more used, dirty gentle strokes as if you were one side to the other making the process for the rest of the
and interesting, i am going to wiping the dust off. Clean the areas with visible border lines cockpit area and always make
treat it with Burnt Umber oil brush with paper towel after between paint shades. On the sure that you do not apply the
which will further enhance and every few strokes and repeat other hand, stubbing motions oils over enamel paint as this
accentuate subtle shading the process until you get very of the brush will make very will result in mixing the base
and colour variations giving it smooth and even surface subtle and smooth transitions paint with overall wash and
Burnt Umber is diluted to roughly the same consistency of LifeColor paints and Small amount of white artist oil is then applied on surfaces between raised details and
applied over the entire cockpit wall are with large flat brush, gently to avoid any parts blended in with clean dry brush by using gentle stubbing motions. Wiping or classic
breaking off. brushing motion is not good for blending oils as it will basically move the paint from
one side to the other making areas with visible border lines between paint shades.

Chapter III
Blended oils always look good and always give us that worn out look and feel. Green oil mix is blended in next to avoid too much fading with white since blending
white over Burnt Umber is toned down beautiful green shades of the cockpit wall.
ruin everything. If you are using a way that we actually paint perfect. While the fuselage is the section on a piece of
enamel paints for the base with brush sides and not in one piece, we will prepare styrene sheets and cut it out
airbrushing seal it with two light with the brush tip to prevent everything for upper fuel tank we will use that cut out shape
coats of clear matt varnish. over-painting other areas. installation but first, we have to make a few more copies.
Also important thing to mention Edge highlights have to be to scratchbuild it. Making this Front side of the tank feature
is that the surface must be very subtle to avoid too much type of fuel tank is fairly easy, an inspection opening, simply
matt in order to apply overall contrast but to make edges the most important thing is to a round hole. As for the tank
oil wash with success. stand up a bit from the other get the cross section correctly. skin we will use rectangular
With overall wash applied to areas. Now is the time to dry First step is to glue together piece of styrene sheet 0.25mm
all cockpit parts the final touch fit all the cockpit parts and the two pieces of the fuselage thick reinforced with another
to this area is to accentuate two fuselage halves to see if we cut out before, the tank one slightly smaller piece to
highlights of edges. Light everything goes along nicely. cover. Once done, it will serve prevent deformations in the
green colour is applied on After a few nudges here and as our template for the tank next step. This skin is treated
all edges with fine brush in there the fit seems to be cross section. Once we mark with rivet wheel from the outer
Oxygen bottles installed and because been weathered separately of the

cockpit wall they will look a bit different which is a good thing as this
will create more interesting looking cockpit.

Cockpit is dry fitted to check and see that everything fits nicely
and tightly before we mate two fuselage halves together.
The same overall oil wash applied to the rest of

cockpit elements followed by edge highlighting to
further accentuate three dimensional effect and
to make to cockpit even more interesting.
side. Tank front and back caps Once both ends meet, tight too! After a few hour and when Fuel tank and tank cover
are now glued upside down wrap the tank with masking properly cured we will continue fasteners are made from
positioned to touch the smaller tape to hold everything firmly adding fuel lines to the tank styrene channel sections,
reinforcing rectangle so that pressed. Gently roll the tank but also filler cap ring and the top part is cut at an angle to
the outer skin overhangs the back and forth on the table filler cap which is taken from accommodate the fuel tank
caps. Make sure that the caps to help the skin to conform the kit. Fuel lines are made and small holes drilled where
are positioned at the centre so evenly without any gaps on from styrene rods and bent the tank cover fasteners are
that the skin ends meet at the the tank side, at this point with tweezers to simulate rigid screwed. When making these
centre once wrapped around. you can tighten the tape if pipes. Primer coat or in this holders, make one and then
Tamiya cement is now necessary. All this sounds just case LifeColor UA046 Neutral use it as a template for all the
applied along the cap edges a bit easier than it is to do, do Grey is airbrushed on and our others to have them all the
and the rectangular styrene not give up if your first attempt fuel tank is ready to be test same. Place one on the left
part is gently wrapped around. is unsuccessful as mine was fitted and further detailed later. side and one on the opposite
Tank front and back caps are glued upside down Fuel tank is further detailed with styrene rod and sheet Once painted, all the details of the tank simply pop out
positioned to touch the smaller reinforcing rectangle so sections which will contribute to the final look of the allowing us to spot any mistakes or gaps we would need
that the outer skin overhangs the caps. Make sure that Spitfire front Section. to take care of before the final paint layer comes on.
the caps are positioned at the centre so that the skin
ends meet at the centre once wrapped around.



Chapter III
Tank cover plate holders are made from styrene Front fuselage sections are masked of and tank cover Fuel tank cover holders are treated the same way as the
channel sections cut at an angle, simple to make but holders sprayed with interior green mix. Airbrush from rest of the cockpit and the tank is test fitted in to check
hyghly effective detail. the outside and with the airbrush close to the surface if everything comes along nicely.
to prevent over-painting other areas inside the cockpit.
side, when two are in place

gently position the fuel tank
to test if it fits tightly between
them. Continue adding two
by two along the edge of
fuselage section until you
have them all lined up, keep
constantly placing the tank in
place to check the fit. If the
glue cures and you need to
reposition the piece simply
touch it with Tamiya Extra Thin
cement to melt the joint and
reposition the part. Six more
holders are positioned to the
back of instrument panel area
and after an hour of curing
time, they are ready to be
painted. Same procedure as
for the rest of the cockpit,
fuselage is masked off, light
green mix is airbrushed on
and then finished with oils.
Fuel tank is now test fitted
again to check once more if
everything is as it should be.
Instrument panel is now
also test fitted and any fit
issues sorted out at this
point so everything can be
just positioned on its place
once the model is finished.
Instrument panel will remain
separated from the lower
section until the very end as
otherwise it would be more
difficult to handle the model
with all the wires in place. Top
half of the kit part G6 has to
be cut off to the middle of
locator pins to accommodate
the fuel tank. Test fitting the
Instrument panel dry fitted to the lower

section, note scraped paint from the
panel top and side sections to help glue
to make better bond once we install it.

Fuselage halves glued together and the instrument panel dry fitted for one more check Once fully cured, Magic Sculpt can be worked just like any other resin casted art.
that everything fits without any problems. Here, a piece of it is machine sanded to form the basic shape for radio receiver.
Styrene strip, rod and sheet sections are Simple but effective, it does not matter Radio receiver test fitted to the radio bay Radio hatch door temporarily attached
used to add all the details on the radio how much visible the piece will be, every to see if how far back it needs to go, we with BluTac.
receiver. Small pieces of vinyl are placed single piece we dedicate our time to will must be careful now not to nudge it over
as placards. help to create award winning model at the rails as it would be hard to get it out
the end. since the fuselage is now permanently
glued.
fuel tank with G6 part in place receiver. With the main shape sheet and slightly curved by every Tamiya kit, so there is
will necessary of course. Our being done, various details pressing it on one of the Small really no point in explaining
job with the cockpit is almost have been made with styrene Shop brass rolling cylinders. already simple steps from the
done and the only thing left strips, rods and sections, Rivet wheel is used to make instructions. Instead, we will
to be made is radio receiver. everything is then airbrushed the rivets before the part has continue with preparations for
A solid piece of Magic Sculpt with LifeColor UA207 been curved. painting the model. As with all
is first cut to basic shape Schwarzgrau. Fine pointed With the cockpit being of my builds, canopy sections
and then sanded on Unimat brush is then used to paint all done it is time to start putting are masked first but fixed on
machine. Steel vice is used the details, placards and edge the airframe together which the model at the very end of
to support the piece while it highlights. Radio bay cover is is rather straightforward and the build. This will ensure that
has been shaped to form the made from 0.25mm styrene a bit boring task as with the canopy stays clean and
Proper masking requires time and patience to ensure no paint will enter the cockpit and all the small details will stay where they
should be. Kit cockpit door have came handy to and save some time masking the door opening.

Chapter III
Behind the wings section on the lower

side of the model is outlined with
narrow masking strips and filled in
with larger pieces of masking tape.
No need to mask the lower wing area
as we are going to airbrush from
the top side mostly. Two bamboo
sticks have been pushed through the
opening on both sides of the cockpit
and will help hold the model for
painting.
polished, if we attach it at the areas is time consuming tasks tank cover fasteners which sections of the fuselage while
beginning there is always a risk but otherwise pretty simple can easily broke off. Kit door the wings lower section is left
of paint sneaking in under the and straightforward. The only is used to fill the gap and unmasked as there is really
masks and ruining it. Masking thing we should be careful with secured with a few little blobs no need. Ocean Grey is next
off the cockpit and fuel tank are those fuel tank holders and of BluTac from the inside. to be airbrushed on upper
Underside of the Spitfire is surfaces and here is where i
airbrushed first with custom did some experimenting with
mixed Medium Sea Grey, a few shades and layers of
LifeColor UA028 and LC01 in grey. First, two thin coats of
1:1 ratio. Two thin coats are LifeColor UA524 US Neutral
enough to cover everything Grey are airbrushed on, this
nicely and to preserve all the is slightly a lighter shade than
delicate and crisp surface we need but will serve as a
details. base for panel fading and
Tamiya masking tape is darker shade finish. Fading
then used to mask off lower of panels is now done with
Two thin coats of LifeColor UA524 US Neutral Grey are airbrushed on, this
is slightly a lighter shade than we need but will serve as a base for panel
fading and darker shade finish.

Fading of panels is now done with Tamiya light grey mix, Flat White XF-2 and LifeColor UA605 Dunkelgrau is thinned 1:1 paint to thinner ratio and airbrushed over
Neutral Grey XF-53 in 1:3 ratio highly diluted with alcohol. A bit heavier layer the entire upper surface in one thin layer to tone down faded surfaces and to slightly
is applied on the top sections of the fuselage and leading edges to create more darken everything.
pronounced highlight effect.
Tamiya light grey mix, Flat one spot. Pull the airbrush intensity and tone variations be feathered and soft we
White XF-2 and Neutral Grey trigger just enough for a very should only be noticeable will use BluTac sausages for
XF-53 in 1:3 ratio highly diluted faint mixture flow. Generally, when holding the model masking. Since the model is
with alcohol. A bit heavier proper alcohol to paint ratio for at arms length distance. painted with acrylic paints, one
layer is applied on the top fading is 9:1, airbrushed at 2 LifeColor UA605 Dunkelgrau very important thing should
sections of the fuselage and Bar or 22 PSI pressure. Proper is thinned 1:1 paint to thinner be done before proceeding
leading edges to create more fading should look random, ratio and airbrushed over the with BluTac application, two
pronounced highlight effect. uneven and very subtle. From entire upper surface in one coats of flat clear cote. If we
When fading panels, keep the my experience, if you can see thin layer to tone down faded place the BluTac without a
airbrush roughly 15mm above the difference in colour tone surfaces and to slightly darken flat clear layer it will leave
the model surface and keep when holding the model and everything. nasty and greasy looking
moving the airbrush constantly working with the airbrush, As the line between Ocean stains on the paint surface
to prevent too much paint in you have gone too far. Colour Grey and Dark Green should and those will not simply dry
Since the model is painted

with acrylic paints, one
very important thing should
be done before proceeding
with BluTac application, two
coats of flat clear cote. If
we place the BluTac without
a flat clear layer it will leave
nasty and greasy looking
stains on the paint surface
and those will not simply dry
and vanish.

Chapter III
For easier masking and painting of the engine covers simply put a ball of BluTac on
a barbeque stick and then position the covers on to it.
and vanish. I have found that liquids like Maskol as you will and to prevent the paint unnecessary but there are
Humbrol aerosol clear matt is never be able to separate it from running underneath the cases when we want to lighten
the best solution for this while from the BluTac. For easier BluTac. Dark Green is now or darken some areas and oils
LifeColor or Tamiya flat cote masking and painting of the faded in the same fashion are simply the best and easiest
will not do. With the flat cote engine covers simply put a ball as the Ocean Grey before. way to do it. Yellow and Black
dry, BluTac is rolled in thin and of BluTac on a barbeque stick My Dark Green mix has been artist oils are mixed to get the
long sausages and carefully and then position the covers intentionally made lighter than green and then the shade is
positioned on the model, no on to it. Dark Green custom it should be to demonstrate fine tuned with adding more
need to press it down. Areas made mix is now darkening with oils. Once the of either colour. Oil mix is then
that should stay in Ocean Grey airbrushed on. masks are removed from the diluted with enamel thinner in
are now filled with masking Keep the airbrush model there is no an easy 1:1 ratio and carefully applied
tape while Post It notes can perpendicular to the model way to make that green darker on green surfaces in thin
be used as well. Do not try to surface to get nice and soft without reapplying the masks. layer. The best way it to put
fill those areas with masking line between the colours This process may seem some at the centre on the
Dark Green is now airbrushed and faded in the same fashion as the Ocean General problem with LifeColor paints is that they get lighter as they dry and in this
Grey before. case make a perfect setting for darkening with oils.

Top engine cover is treated with dark green oil mix and compared to our airbrushed Oil green mix is diluted to consistency of melted butter and carefully applied on the
LifeColor Dark Green, difference is obvious. green areas of the model, flat clean brush is then used to distribute and blend oil mix
but also to remove excess paint.
green areas and distribute it should start from the edge of final oil layer is very thin all the everything with flat clear.
outwards. Keep the oils away the green area and towards fading we have done on the While the paint is drying, i
from the green border line the centre of it. Repeat the base green is still visible, of will start working on the engine
for about 2-3mm as that area process until you get smooth course small amounts of white which is quite a kit on its own.
will be filled in when we start and even surface with no oil paint can be used in some Actually, Tamiyas kit engine is
smoothing the mix with clean visible brush marks. IF some areas if needed and blended quite better detailed than many
brush. Large flat and clean of the oil paint crosses onto with clean and dry brush. We of the aftermarket resin engine
brush is now used to remove the grey areas simply wipe will leave the model aside sets i have seen. With just a
excess oil and to smooth it out with a q-tip moistened for 48 hours to allow oils to few bits and wires added it
the surface. Brush strokes with enamel thinner. As the properly cure before sealing should look beautiful. I will
As the final oil layer is very

thin all the fading we have
done on the base green is
still visible, of course small
amounts of white oil paint
can be used in some areas
if needed and blended with
clean and dry brush.

Chapter III


Chapter III
Drilling small holes on some of the engine parts will Engine side panel frame is well detailed but we need to More holes have been drilled on the main engine section
help us fix the wires later. drill through the locking nuts to make it more realistic. to easily attach copper wires and plastic wrapped cables.
start with drilling holes in all base for further improvements, All the wires are now bent and holes are then drilled trough to
the places where the cables mainly cables, wires and connected to various firewall accommodate ignition cables.
and wiring will be placed. hydraulic lines. Again, copper parts. Detailing now continues Instead of just using the wire,
Holes will also be drilled on the and plastic wrapped wire is with the main section of we are going to cut off small
frame that holds side engine used to add more realism and Rolls-Royce engine. A piece pieces of plastic wire wrapping
covers where the fasteners are life to this section. Styrene of styrene rod is glued on the and place it on one side of
screwed. Firewall section is rod is bent and used to right hand side between the each of the twelve copper wire
well detailed and it is a perfect represent rigid hydraulic lines. two engine blocks and twelve pieces to simulate caps and to
Basic engine assembly look great even just out of the box, with some wires and extra details it will look better than most of the aftermarket resin engines.

Firewall section is well detailed and it is a perfect base for further improvements, All the wires are now bent and connected to various firewall parts.
mainly cables, wires and hydraulic lines. Styrene rod is bent and used to represent
rigid hydraulic lines.
A piece of styrene rod is glued on the right hand side between the two engine blocks Thicker plastic ends of wires are then glued in the holes with small amount of
and twelve holes are then drilled trough to accommodate ignition cables. Instead of superglue.
just using the wire, we are going to cut off small pieces of plastic wire wrapping and
place it on one side of each of the twelve copper wire pieces to simulate caps and
to further add more realism.
Wires are now carefully bent inwards. Same goes for the engine sides where pieces of styrene rod will be used together with
ignition wires we just made.

Chapter III
further add more realism.

Thicker plastic ends of wires
are then glued in the holes
and bent inwards. Same goes
for the engine sides where
pieces of styrene rod will be
used together with ignition
wires we just made. More
copper wire is then used to
add various installation lines
to the engine body. Keeping
the wire straight and bent at Copper wire is then
an angle is important when used to add various
installation lines to the
simulating rigid lines and engine body. Keeping the
metal pipes. Flexible plastic wire straight and bent
at an angle is important
wrapped wires are now added when simulating rigid
to the engine supporting lines and metal pipes.
frame. As majority of these
lines run along the metal

bars they should be properly
fastened. Thin strips of self-
adhesive aluminium foil are
used to fasten the cables to
the frame. Aluminium strips
are wrapped toward the inside
so that both ends are hidden
when looked from the outside.
Fine pointed tweezers are now
used to squeeze aluminium
Flexible plastic wrapped wires are now added to the engine Dry fitting and constant checking is needed at this stage as we strips so that they conform to
supporting frame. As majority of these lines run along the are adding a lot of extra details which can disrupt the perfect fit the cable for more natural look.
metal bars they should be properly fastened. Thin strips of of the parts.
self-adhesive aluminium foil are used to fasten the cables Dry fitting and constant
to the frame. checking is needed at this
stage as we are adding a lot of
extra details which can disrupt
the perfect fit of the parts.
Some wires and cable need to
be trimmed in order to make
everything fit together nicely.
Hydraulic fluid tanks got their
pipes as well as pipe fasteners
made with aluminium strips.
With wide variety of colour
elements used in detailing the
engine area, primer coat is
airbrushed on everything for
easier inspection and further
detailing if desired. Uniform
colour of the entire assembly
makes it easier to spot any
mistakes and messed up
areas. Everything is now
Addition of simple elements

and details makes a great
improvement of the kit parts.

With wide variety of colour
elements used in detailing the
engine area, primer coat is
airbrushed on everything for
easier inspection and further
detailing if desired.
divided in to two groups for as if assembled now it would that we paint two narrow strips few different shades of dark
painting, engine parts are be difficult to paint all the on each side of the fastener grey to avoid even and boring
airbrushed with LifeColor details from the inside. Green so it would look like the real single colour elements. Some
UA207 Schwarzgrau mixed colour is followed by shading thing where the rubber piece placards have been painted
with a drop of gloss cote with Tamiya X-1 Black to create is placed under the fastener on hydraulic fluid tanks in the
for satin like finish while the more contrast and a base for ring. All the screws and rivets same way we did it for oxygen
engine frame and the firewall further detail enhancement. are painted with slightly lighter bottles earlier. Burnt Umber
section have received two thin Fine pointed brush is now shade of yellow-green which overall oil wash is now applied
coats of our cockpit green used to paint all the details. is then used for raised details to all firewall and supporting
mix. One side of the engine Aluminium strip fasteners are and edge highlights. Cables frame elements, everything
supporting frame is left loose painted with black in a way and wires are painted in a except the engine itself. Oil
Constant dry fitting of all the parts is essential when adding extra details to the kit parts. Some of the wires and cables will be trimmed off later.

Chapter III
The engine frame and the firewall section

have received two thin coats of our cockpit
green mix. Note that one side of the
engine supporting frame is left loose as if
assembled now it would be difficult to paint
all the details from the inside.
wash is applied to tone down smooth areas, then they are

all the colours and to make treated with micromesh cloth
everything look heavily used, to make the surface even and
dusty and dirty. Great care with tiny scratches all around.
must be taken here when Gunze Sangyo Mr Metal 218
applying the ways because Aluminium is now applied with
of all the small and fragile large flat brush without any
elements so take your time special procedure just simply
to do it gently and slowly. brushed on and left aside to
Side panel fastening frames dry. Some twelve hours later
are treated more heavily to a soft paper towel is used to
simulate wear and tear of rub the parts for some twenty
Shading with Tamiya X-1 Black is applied to create more contrast and a base for further
detail enhancement.
frequent panel removal and minutes or so, slowly and
servicing. Paint chipping is by applying just a little bit of
applied with light yellow-green pressure. Buffing the painted
and fine pointed brush around surface will make it shiny
screw holes. Area around but because of tiny surface
exhaust is further treated with scratches it will look more like
black-brown oil mix to simulate the real aluminium than if we
deep shadows, heavily burnt simply brushed it onto smooth
oil stains and dirt. surface of the part.
Oil tank and carburettor air There is really no accurate
intake will be painted in natural recipe here, once you start
metal finish and before doing buffing you will know when to
so, some surface preparations stop once you are satisfied
are needed in order to get with the final metal look. When
Fine pointed brush is now used to paint all the details. Aluminium strip fasteners the metal finish to look right. buffing is done, some subtle
are painted with black in a way that we paint two narrow strips on each side of the First, both parts are sanded shading is applied and then
fastener so it would look like the real thing where the rubber piece is placed under the
fastener ring. so that there are no perfectly the part is gently rubbed with

Some placards have been painted on hydraulic fluid tanks as well as paint Burnt Umber overall oil wash is now applied to all firewall and supporting frame elements. Oil
chipping on side panel supporting frames. wash is applied to tone down all the colours and to make everything look heavily used, dusty
and dirty.
micromesh cloth to accentuate paints is the fact that they you buff them, more buffing simple and effective enough.
the scratches and used look a will leave metal particles on means less paint residue on Engine coolant tank is painted
bit more. The only drawback your fingers if touched which your fingers. One option is to and weathered in the same
of Gunze Sangyo Mr Metal really depends on how much spray flat or satin cote over it manner.
but that would then Now, the engine! LifeColor
Good looking natural metal finish
is always difficult to achieve, give us more oxidised UA207 Schwarzgrau mixed
simple technique of buffing aluminium look. I with LifeColor gloss cote in 3:1
and burnishing Gunze Sangyo
Mr Metal 218 Aluminium is my simply leave it as is ratio is airbrushed as a base
favourite. and i do not touch it, colour. Before the dry-brush
Oil tank looks shiny

and scratched, some
weathering and shading
will make it look more
realistic.

Chapter III


Chapter III
process i would like to explain some

Main engine
parts are basics of dry-brushing with metallic
airbrushed with paints. Again, we are using Gunze
LifeColor UA207
Schwarzgrau
Sangyo Mr Metal 218 Aluminium as
mixed with a main dry-brush paint and Mr Metal 214
drop of gloss Dark Iron for getting the dark shine on
cote for satin
like finish. some of the engine sections. Medium
size flat brush is used for this task.
Shake and open the paint bottle, dip
the brush in the paint that is left on
the bottle cap and brush will pick up
enough of it. Now, start brushing the
paper towel until no more paint trails
are visible and then continue for a
few more strokes, we want the brush
completely dry! Take a piece of painted
plastic from spares box and test it, the
brush should not leave any traces on
a flat surface but should make nice
highlights on the edges. Also, when
dry-brushing always use a side of the
We will use brush only, never the tip!
Gunze Sangyo
Mr Metal 218
Start with gently brushing all the
Aluminium as raised edges and details while holding
main dry-brush the brush at low angle so that the
paint and Mr
Metal 214 Dark side of the brush is touching the part.
Iron for getting Brush strokes should be as if you were
the dark shine
on some of the wiping the dust off, light and gentle.
engine sections. This engine is simple perfect for this
type of work and as soon as you start
you will notice a huge difference and
amazing level of details. Once the
entire engine is brushed go for one
more round and do not touch it with
your hands. This is all done with just
one brush dip into the paint, if the trail
becomes faint simply apply little more
pressure. Some of the parts have to be
painted in natural metal and to do so,
gently brush the part with brush tip or
even stubbing motions with the brush
The brush
will do. As only the finest metal paint
should not leave particles are left in the brush, the finish
any traces on a of those metal parts will look fabulous.
flat surface but
should make The same process is repeated with
nice highlights Dark Iron paint which is applied to the
on the raised
details and large and flat areas of the engine to
edges. Note give it dark metallic shine. The engine
when dry-
brushing,
is now carefully fitted to the frame and
always use the firewall section, some nudges and
a side of the cable rearrangements are necessary
brush only,
never the tip! for everything to fit together nicely. I
will not glue the engine as some more
adjustments may be needed later,
the fit is so nice and tight that glue
is not required anyway. Side cover
holders are now fitted as well although
with some minor issues caused by
cables and wires, again a few nudges
with tweezers and everything is in its

Some of the parts have to be painted in natural metal and to do so, gently brush the The main engine section is now warn off enough and all the details are highly visible.
part with brush tip or even stubbing motions with the brush will do.
place, safe and sound. Engine While the wash is still wet we the exhaust parts onto a piece this time more subtle so we
cover frame is locked in place will dust it with rust coloured of BluTac wrapped around do not end up with all metal
with tiny drops of super glue pigments or dry pastel powder. the barbecue stick. Engine looking front section of the
applied with the toothpick. Pigments will stick to wet oil assembly is now complete Spitfire. The brush is this time
Exhaust pipes are painted and create irregular coarse and ready for one final touch wipe off even more vigorously
with LifeColor UA207 surface just like on the real to be perfect and almost ready than before for the engine. We
Schwarzgrau and then Burnt thing. For easier handling and for ignition. Another drybrush will concentrate on the cables
Umber oil was is applied. painting i have arranged all round over the entire thing, and wires and then engine
The engine is now carefully

fitted to the frame and the
firewall section, some nudges
and cable rearrangements are
necessary for everything to fit
together nicely.

Chapter III
No glue is used until side panel frames are fitted in. Exhaust pipes are painted with LifeColor UA207 Schwarzgrau and then Burnt Umber oil was is applied.
While the wash is still wet we will dust it with rust coloured pigments or dry pastel powder.
Side panel frames are now fitted as well although with some minor issues caused by cables and wires.

The engine and firewall assembly is now compact, solid and well detailed.
Another dry-brush round over the entire thing, this time more subtle so we do cap hole and fastener holes and get almost the same
not end up with all metal looking front section of the Spitfire.
have been drilled before we result. I could not resist to
shaped the piece. Size of the test Gunze Sangyo Mr Metal
frame and supporting bars. has been wiped off, the final piece is 28.5mm wide and 218 Aluminium here and paint
Very light and gentle brush result is guaranteed to 44.5mm long. If you do not the kit tank cover with it just
motions will create barely be perfect. want to mess around with for comparison with the real
noticeable but highly effective With the engine section aluminium tank cover even aluminium piece, the result i
edge highlights. As for the now being done i will sort out though it is really easy job, have got looks pretty close to
cables, only the top sections all the other details before you can thin out the kit piece the real thing. Burnt umber oils
are treated which makes continuing the paint job and
them more noticeable and the the markings placement.
whole area to look busier and Upper fuel tank is next. Subtle
complex. Some modellers like shading is done with Tamiya
to use light grey or white paint X-1 Black highly diluted with
for the dry-brush of the engine alcohol which will be our base
and surrounding elements for further weathering with
while metallic paint works the oils. A piece of 0.4mm thick
best for me. It is easy to work aluminium sheet is now cut
with, produces very smooth to measure and shaped to
and realistic highlights and one form the tank cover. Shaping
brush dip can last for hours is done by simple conforming
of dry-brushing. As the finest the piece on the kit tank cover
metal particles from the paint that we have separated from
will remain in the brush after it the fuselage earlier. Fuel filler
Side panel frames are locked in place with tiny drops of super glue
applied with the toothpick.

Chapter III
Subtle shading on the fuel tank is done Aluminium tank cover is formed by Kit part representing the fuel tank cover Cover now fits perfectly to the fuel tank
with Tamiya X-1 Black highly diluted with bending the piece of aluminium sheet is brush painted with Gunze Sangyo Mr which means we will be able to show it
alcohol which will be our base for further over the kit part. Metal 218 Aluminium and compared to in its place once everything is done.
weathering with oils. the real aluminium piece, looks pretty
close to the real thing.
are now used to make the fuel and dry brush. Process is and Dark Green. A few light it in its place once everything
tank and its cover dirty and the repeated once more with strokes with micromesh cloth is done.
with fuel stains concentrated black oil paint applied in even along the cover edges will Landing gear is then
around the filler cap. Oil paint smaller amounts around the reveal bare aluminium and treated the same way with
is diluted with enamel thinner filler cap and blended in. Same make the piece look more the shading first and a few
in 1:1 ratio, applied in very procedure is followed on the warn out. Cover now fits dots of Burnt Umber in the
small dots around the filler cap tank cover which is previously perfectly to the fuel tank which most recessed areas. Wheels
and then blended with clean been painted in Ocean Grey means we will be able to show are painted black and then
Oil paint is diluted with enamel thinner in

1:1 ratio, applied in very small dots around
the filler cap and then blended with clean
and dry brush to create fuel stains on the
fuel tank as well as on the cover. A few light
strokes with micromesh cloth along the cover
edges will reveal bare aluminium and make
the piece look more warn out.

Landing gear assembled, painted and shaded with Tamiya X-1 Black. Gunze Sangyo Mr Metal 218 Again, Mr Metal 218 Aluminium is used to accentuate all the
Aluminium is brushed on the rims. beautiful details of the radiator intakes.
drybrushed for a few minutes Since all the pins are located oil paint dry on the Spitfire it is we will add distilled water to
with Gunze Sangyo Mr Metal between flap ribs we cannot time to move on with finishing the mix so the final mix ratios
218 Aluminium until completely just sand them dawn, instead the model. Further random for the fading would be 1 part
covered. Radiator air intakes we will use curved blade knife fading of green areas is now paint, 5 parts alcohol and 3
are painted with LifeColor to scrape them away first. done with Tamiya paints XF-65 parts water. After the fading
UA207 Schwarzgrau and Curved section of the blade is Field Grey, XF-62 Olive Drab process, the entire model will
then drybrushed with Gunze pressed beside the ping and and XF-58 Olive green, each receive a thin coat of matt
Sangyo Mr Metal 218 to bring pulled over it while applying a mixes with a little bit of XF-3 varnish and it is ready for
out all the fine surface details. little pressure to it. Scraping Flat Yellow. Important thing masking and painting of the
Landing flaps are now motion is done in one direction here is the fact that this fading markings. With no particular
prepared for panting in bare only and until the pin mark is is done with matt instead reason, fuselage code letters,
metal finish as i am going to flush with the surface. Fine of gloss paints which make band and tail letter are the
place them in down position. sanding paper is then rolled in things a bit more difficult. Matt first to be painted with custom
Ejection pin marks are all over a cylinder and gently rubbed paints dry faster than gloss made Sky mix consisting of
the inside area of the flaps and back and forth to smooth the paints which also have a LifeColor UA095 Sky, UA204
we need to remove them on surface and make it even. better flow in the airbrush. To Dunkelgelb and LC01 White
order to get satisfying results. With all the details done and compensate for this fast drying in 5:4:1 ratio. LifeColor UA095
Curved blade is used to scrape off ejector pin marks Fine sanding paper is wrapped around a piece of brass Craw bar is easily made from a piece of styrene rod.
from the landing flaps. tube and used to smooth down any imperfections on
landing flaps.

Chapter III


Chapter III
Further random fading of green areas is now done with Tamiya paints XF-65 Field Fuselage code letters, band and tail letter are the first to be painted with custom
Grey, XF-62 Olive Drab and XF-58 Olive green, each mixes with a little bit of XF-3 Flat made Sky mix consisting of LifeColor UA095 Sky, UA204 Dunkelgelb and LC01 White
Yellow. in 5:4:1 ratio.
White is airbrushed first for fuselage roundels and tail fin flash. Followed with dark red mix made of Tamiya XF-7 Flat Red and XF-63 German Grey in
8:1 ratio.
Sky can be used here alone White is airbrushed first for roundels and then covered back the mask elements so
but it simple did not look right fuselage roundels followed with masking elements for that they fit the frame. Now
to me, apart from the fact that i by dark red mix for the wing the next colour. When placing remove outer ring leaving
really enjoy mixing paints. Poor roundels. Dark red mix consist roundel masks use a few strips the centre ring in place and
coverage of the mix requires of Tamiya XF-7 Flat Red and of Tamiya tape over the mask covering the red area. Blue mix
three or four coats instead XF-63 German Grey in 8:1 and lift all masking elements in is now sprayed on the outer
of two so be careful when ratio. Do not worry if the red one go, together with masking ring of the roundel. Dark blue
removing the masks not to tear now looks a bit too light, i frame. When positioned on mix consists of Tamiya XF-8
the paint which is now a bit will look just perfect once the the model, remove all masking Flat Blue, XF-7 Flat Red and
thick. Roundel masks are now clear cote is on. Red mix is elements leaving just the frame X-1 Black in 4:1:1 ratio, again
positioned and surrounding sprayed at the centre section on. Spray red mix for upper this will look a bit lighter than
areas additionally masked off. of wing upper and lower side wing roundels and then put we need but will be good once

All the markings are now sprayed and unmasked, roundels still looks a bit too
light which will be taken care of with a thin coat of mat varnish.
Fuselage roundel masks have lifted some of the paint of the

fuselage code, fine pointed brush is then used to touch up
chipped letters with our custom made Sky mix.
we spray the clear coat on. painted together with fuselage

As i have not waited code MK126 in LifeColor
long enough for the paint on UA207 Schwarzgrau. Entire
the fuselage codes to dry model is now airbrushed with
properly i have to deal with Future floor wax polish to
consequences. Fuselage prepare the surface for panel
roundel masks have lifted line oil wash. You can now
some of the paint of the notice that our roundels are
fuselage code, not a big deal darker and looking perfect. Mix
but unnecessary step in the of Burnt Umber and Black oil
process. Fine pointed brush is prepared and diluted with
is used to touch up chipped enamel thinner in 9:1 paint to
letters with our custom made thinner ratio and applied with
Sky mix. upper wing walking round medium sized brush.
area lines are masked and Brush is first soaked in oil
A small lump behind the empty cartridge ejection hole will make it impossible to apply
the kit decals, masks have done excellent job here.

Chapter III
Lower side of the model is now treated with oil wash with more mess to simulate heavier oil streaks, dirt, wear and tear. Wash is applied without too much
care, along the panel lines, here and there.
wash and then we just have brush to model contact. As oils simulate heavier oil streaks, the panel lines, here and there.
to touch recessed panel lines tend to settle down in enamel dirt, wear and tear. As the Few hours later when the wash
with the brush tip and capillary thinner, shake the bottle entire surface is covered in is dry we will start working
force will do the rest. Best every so often to get the best rivets we will apply the wash our way from front to tail with
points for applying the wash consistency of the mix. to only some of them to avoid thinner moistened cotton
are places where two or more Lower side of the model too many rivets shadowing the swab, few light strokes and the
panel lines meet, that way we is now treated with oil wash other details. Wash is applied rotating the swab tip to start
cover larger areas with each and rather with more mess to without too much care, along again with clean section. Keep
the cleaning strokes in the air
flow directions as that way we
will get very nice looking oil
and dirt streaks going from the
front sections of airplane. Try
not to be too neat and clean
everything to be like new, lower
areas of the aircraft do need
to look dirty! Sometimes when
working with enamel thinner
When the wash is dry, we will

start working our way from front
to tail with thinner moistened
cotton swab, few light strokes
and the rotating the swab tip to
start again with clean section.
Keep the cleaning strokes in the
air flow directions as that way we
will get very nice looking oil and
dirt streaks going from the front
sections of airplane.

Airbrush shading is just as important as the oil wash for highly effective weathering. A thin layer of future is sprayed on for placement of decals and stencils. Note how
that one layer affects the colour of roundels which are now just perfect.
Kit decals have proved to be rather difficult to apply, poor adhesive resulted in Humbrol matt clear is now de-canned into an empty jar and airbrushed on the model
silvering on every single decal element. To fix this, a drop of white glue diluted with to seal everything. Flat surface now looks good but some more panel fading can be
water is brushed on the spot and decals applied while it is still wet. done, Tamiya XF-53 Neutral Grey mixed with white in 1:1 ratio is randomly sprayed on
some panels, gun bay covers and fuselage spine line.
over Future, we can encounter idea to try and sort it out with in warm water for about 10 in diluted white glue, once
colour lightening and white glue diluted with water, seconds and then dip just the positioned on the model gently
discolouration on some areas, and it worked! Dip the decal decal without backing sheet remove excess glue mix with
nothing be worried about as
the top flat coat will straighten
this out. Panel line shading is
Highly diluted Tamiya
next to be done on lower sides X-1 is now used for
with highly diluted Tamiya X-1 panel line shading
Black. Keep the airbrush very and creating dirt
streaks on upper
close to the model and spray surfaces.
with barely visible mixture flow.
Again, shading should not be
very noticeable when looking
from close range. A bit heavier
shading is done around empty
cartridge disposal openings, at
the root of Hispano cannons
and in the wheel bays. When
done, another layer of future
is sprayed on for placement
of decals and stencils. I have
tried every possible solution
but the kit decals are simply
relentless, silvering no matter
what you do. Almost at the
end of my patience i got an

Chapter III


Chapter III
wet brush which is also used they stay clean and clear,
Pieces of Tamiya tape to position the decal in its polished and shiny. Small
have been used along place. This has been the only amount of Pacer Formula 560
panel lines to airbrush the
streaks and dirt marks problem with the build so far, Canopy Glue is applied along
on some panels, mainly not sure if it is just my kit or the contact surface with the
behind gun covers, on
ailerons and rear moving
Tamiya got it wrong somehow toothpick and the parts are
surfaces. with this one. then carefully positioned and
Humbrol matt clear is now adjusted so that the fit and
de-canned into an empty jar alignment is perfect. Cotton
and airbrushed on the model swab is moistened with water
to seal everything. Flat surface and excess glue is gently
now looks good but some wiped off, away from the clear
more panel fading can be area to prevent smudges.
done, Tamiya XF-53 Neutral Sliding canopy section is
Grey mixed with white in 1:1 simply placed on the top
ratio is randomly sprayed on of fixed clear part once
Shading should be subtle some panels, gun bay covers everything else is done.
and barely noticeable. and fuselage spine line. Light Instrument panel backside
grey fading can be applied wires and cables are now
on green surfaces as well as trimmed and carefully diverted
long as it is barely noticeable. to go below the fuel tank and
Highly diluted Tamiya X-1 trough the holes we drilled
is now used for panel line trough the surface where the
shading and creating dirt instrument panel is mounted.
streaks on upper surfaces. We will also gently press all
Pieces of Tamiya tape have the wires slightly backward to
been used along panel lines get enough room to insert the
to airbrush the streaks and fuel tank but also to get more
dirt marks on some panels, realistic look of that section
mainly behind gun covers, with all the wires cramped
on ailerons and rear moving in that little space. The fuel
surfaces. Black mixture for tank is not glued in place as
A bit heavier shading
is done on ailerons and
shading is barely noticeable there is no need for it, wires
recessed areas where they on yellow Tamiya tape which and firewall section will hold
meet the wing. shows how diluted the mixture it in place firmly enough so
is, almost transparent. Mixture it does not pops out when
well diluted is much more you move the model. Another
easy to control and we can option is to fix it with a little bit
always make another pass of BluTac at the bottom. A tiny
with the airbrush contrary to holes are now drilled at the tip
thick mixture where mistakes of both horizontal stabilizers
are highly visible and hard to accommodate the antenna
to fix. Canopy placement is wire which is made from
next, it has been masked stretched sprue. One end
off and painted each time of antenna wire is inserted
we were painting the main in the hole on the tip of left
airframe so the colour is stabilizer and secured with
Well diluted is much more consistent. We could attach tiny drop of superglue applied
easy to control and we can
always make another pass
it at the beginning but then with a piece of copper wire.
with the airbrush contrary the masking has to be done Now, we will drill two holes
to thick mixture where much more carefully to on each side of the fuselage
mistakes are highly visible
and hard to fix. prevent any misting of the just a little behind the radio
clear parts from the inside door, its already marked on
which them implicated their the model and we need to
removal, polishing and so drill trough. Antenna wire is
on. Attaching clear parts et now patiently pushed through
the very end ensures that one hole and a few seconds

Instrument panel backside wires and cables are now trimmed and carefully
diverted to go below the fuel tank and trough the holes we drilled trough the
surface where the instrument panel is mounted.
later it came out at the other a great reward!

side of the fuselage. This end Tamiyas Spitfire is easily
is now carefully tightened with one of the nicest models i
tweezers, trimmed to measure have ever assembled, pure
and inserted into the hole at joy in every possible way.
the tip of right stabilizer and Almost completely a care free
fixed with superglue. This build with no need of planning
way seems easier to me twenty steps in advance
while it is not the only way or constantly wondering is
to do it. Engine assembly is everything going fit nicely at
now carefully mounted to the the end, in fact i do not think
fuselage and the radio door is that you can mess it up even
glued in its place with a little if you want to. Now, i must
bit of superglue. Radio door mention that it would be nice
supporting bar is made from if we got those gun bays a bit
Attaching clear parts et the very end ensures that they stay clean and clear,
polished and shiny. Small amount of Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue is applied thin styrene rod. Our Spitfire more detailed and a couple of
along the contact surface with the toothpick and the parts are then carefully is now done and ready to be Hispano cannons but hey, lets
positioned and adjusted so that the fit and alignment is perfect.
displayed. Just a little effort for not be too picky.
All the little pieces are now fitted in except for the fuel tank which is fixed in Landing flaps mechanism which protrudes the upper wing is glued with
placed with a little bit of BluTac so we can nudge it if needed when installing superglue and brush painted with Mr Metal 218 Aluminium.
the engine assembly.

Chapter III
If you decide to leave the spinner cap

off, paint the inside area with LifeColor
UA207 Schwarzgrau and dry-brush it with
Mr Metal 218 Aluminium.

Chapter III
P-47D THUNDERBOLT

Chapter III
P-47D THUNDERBOLT
Kit summary
Trumpeters P-47D Razorback looks like a perfect kit from the moment you open the box, but after detailed check of all the parts
some things start to look wrong. Trumpeter is known for their rivet mania and this kit is no exception. I actually do like riveted kits as
they can really improve overall look and add to realism of the model. There is no doubt that every single rivet that was present on
real Thunderbolt is represented here and that is not the problem, however, their size is. Deep and rather large rivets are not in scale
here, fortunately there are ways to make them look just right. Another thing is the firewall area which is taken from their P-47N version
of the kit and certainly not suitable for our Razorback. Wings to the fuselage fit could be better as well as the tail fin root filet which
is present on one fuselage half while simply not there on the other. On the other hand, engine and cockpit parts are crisply and well
detailed and fairly accurate. Good selection and amount of bombs, rockets, rocket launchers, fuel tanks, spinners and propeller
variants is another bonus and high point. What looks like a mixed bag here is actually a good kit which can be easily turned into a
great looking model with a little time and effort, even for not so advanced modeller.
78 BUILDING THE AIRCRAFT - P-47D THUNDERBOLT


Chapter III
BUILDING THE AIRCRAFT - P-47D THUNDERBOLT
BEFORE WE START
Eduard BigED BIG3266 P-47D-20
Vector Scale Resin Engines 32001 Pratt & Whitney
R-2800 A/B style
Hobby Decal ST32001V1 P-47 Dry Transfer Stencils
Maketar Paint Masks - 32039 P-47D Thunderbolt
Lethal Liz II

Cyanoacrylate glue
Tamiya cement
Scalpel and tweezers
Drilling pin vise
BluTack
Mr. Surfacer 500 and/or Mr. Surfacer 1000 Side panels have been cut out with sharp pointed blade and the edges smoothed with fine sanding
paper. Top side panel covering hydraulic tanks and lines has been removed as well.
Styrene sheet in various size and thickness
Magic Sculpt modelling clay
THE BUILD has been removed as well. P-47N
Brass tubes The build starts with inspection of variant had this section opened
Modellers saw the fuselage and making plans for towards the engine area while
panel openings, what can be done P-47D Razorback variant had a
Paints used: to make the model look dynamic closed sections for hydraulic tanks
Artist oils: and interesting and above all, whats and various installation lines which
Burnt Umber
the easiest way to do it. First thing means that we will have to make that
Black
that i would like to be visible is the container from styrene sheet. With
White
Yellow rear compartment of the engine and closer inspection it is pretty much
the firewall area. Side panels have clear that everything from the firewall
LifeColor acrylic paints: been cut out with sharp pointed area has to go as almost nothing is
LC27 Matt Clear blade and the edges smoothed with done right. Oil tank is a bit strange
LC01 Matt White fine sanding paper. Top side panel in shape and size as well as the
UA042 Chrome Yellow covering hydraulic tanks and lines water tank which is somewhat too
UA006 Green
UA045 Non Specular Intermediate Blue
UA207 Schwarz Grau

X-1 Gloss Black
XF-64 Red Brown
X-32 Titanium Silver
XF-10 Flat Brown
Alclad II Lacquers:
Duraluminium ALC-102
Dark Aluminium ALC-103
Semi Matt Aluminium ALC-116
White Aluminium ALC-106
Polished Aluminium ALC-105
Polished Brass ALC-109
Gunze Sangyo paints and primers:

Mr. Metal Color 218 Aluminium
Mr. Surfacer 1000
Testors Model Master enamel paints:

1790 Chrome Silver
Revell enamel paints
Firewall frame part is made from styrene sheet by outlining the original part first. Bottom section is then
09 Matt Anthracite Grey glued first and left aside to cure before we press it against the firewall part to conform to its shape.
036 Matt Carmine Red

Hydraulic tank container which
sits at the top of the firewall
is made from 0.25mm thick
styrene sheet.
flat and too wide. Considering

that we need to make new
tank another problem arises,
engine supporting frame
which would be too narrow
to accommodate the oil tank.
Kit part which represents
the firewall frame has some
junction boxes that are out of
place and the part itself was Magic Sculpt is used to make most of the details behind the Clamps have been used to hold the new firewall frame in place
engine. Note the bad shaped water tank at the far back. until the glue fully cures. New firewall frame is thinner and
a bit twisted, not sure this is better looking.
a general problem or just with
my kit. Firewall frame part is Some pieces of the new part fuselage halves too. Another one, thinner piece of
made from styrene sheet by have been cut and trimmed Engine supporting frame is styrene rod is now inserted into
outlining the original part first. a few times in order to get next. Styrene rod 1.8mm thick newly formed pipe from the
Bottom section is then glued perfect fit. Once the part is is used for the main frame back side and to about 1mm
first and left aside to cure done and fits tightly into the bars and 1.4mm diameter rod from the coned opening. Small
before we press it against the opening we will make the top for the cross bars and oil tank and shallow hole is now drilled
firewall part to conform to its frame where fasteners are support. A bit larger diameter here to simulate the screw
shape. Clamps are now used screwed into and glue it in its styrene rod is used for the head opening. Four of these
to hold the pieces together for place. New part is now glued base structure which is bolted pieces are requires and all of
an hour or so. to the firewall section while to the firewall frame, 2.5mm them are the same size and
Hydraulic tank container the two fuselage halves are diameter will do. This rod is length, approximately 6mm
which sits at the top of the dry fitted. This is important now drilled with 2.2mm drill bit long from the base to the cone
firewall is made from 0.25mm as if we simply glued it to to make a pipe of it. We could tip. Smaller diameter piece
thick styrene sheet. Two the firewall while detached use a styrene pipe in the first which was inserted from the
rectangular lumps found at the from the fuselage it may not place but the pipe walls are back side of the coned pipe
bottom of that upper sections fit the fuselage opening later. too thick to look good. Next will be left to stick out some
have been removed and the Container is glued to the step is to cut one end at very 2mm and would be fitted into
opening is then measured. firewall only and not to the high angle to get sharp cone. the hole on the firewall frame.

Chapter III
Scratchbuilt engine supporting frame, oil tank and upper container dry
fitted to check for any eventual fit problems.
Four holes are now marked between the upper two coned New pieces will be glued the urge to open two more
and drilled in the firewall frame pieces and then glued to those roughly at the same position little panels going from the
and four coned pieces dry two carefully not to glue it to where the kit frame would go. junction box panel towards
fitted in place. Cone opening is the firewall. One end of each bar is not the front. Holes are drilled
facing outwards and an angle Pieces of 1.8mm diameter also cut at an angle to form along the panel line and then
of 45 degrees. A piece of styrene rod are now measured the cone. It is hard to explain connected with sharp pointed
styrene rod 1.4mm in diameter to fit between coned pieces at which angle this should be blade. Opening edges are
is now measured and cut to fit and the forward engine firewall. cut but it is very easy to get then sanded with small square
it right. First, cut the cone at file and later with fine sanding
approximately 60 degrees paper wrapped around the file.
angle and then dry fit it, coned Styrene strip is then glued to
side should go on the base the forward opening edge, the
structure piece and the other thing that holds the side panel.
end should go the forward Lower section between the
engine firewall inner ring. Now two side panels did not have
just correct the cone angle is if this piece where fasteners are
does not sit tight on the base screwed into. When cutting
structure coned pipe. Sounds narrow strips from the styrene
complicated but it is not, a sheet use steel ruler and very
few test fits and some wasted sharp blade. Do not cut all
styrene rod and we are done. the way trough in one go as
Photos will actually explain the will deform and twirl the
it a bit better and show how strip, instead do it with a few
simple the structure is. light passes of the blade until
More panels have been cut open by using drill and cut technique. Metal strip with With the engine support the strip is separated from
fastener holes is made from narrow piece of styrene sheet and glued in place. frame now done i have got the sheet. When attaching

Again, Eduard photo
etched parts are a
great improvement
over kit part for the
gun sight.
Eduard photo etched set is welcomed addition to the cockpit. Kit 0.25mm thick
instrument panel back plate is used and further detailed with lead, styrene sheet
copper and plastic wrapped wires. section is fitted to
the cockpit wall
to as a base for
the strip to the curved edge soft and flexible further detailing.
Piece of styrene
first glue one end and leave plastic wrapped sheet is use used
it to fully cure the apply glue wire and stretched to make two rib
along the entire edge and sprue are used for sections, one for
each side of the
slowly conform the strip to the cockpit detailing. junction box.
edge shape and hold it a few Floor section of the
seconds with tweezers. cockpit received
Once i get a bit tired from a few hydraulic Different gauges
of styrene rod
working on one section of the and installation sections are now
model i simply start working lines mainly in the glued to this
on something else. This forward section square section
to represent
helps me not to try to finish behind rudder connection
something at all cost and as pedals. Cockpit points for various
installation lines.
soon as possible just because heating pipes are
i got tired of it which usually represented with
ends up with not satisfying thin styrene rods at
results. As the cockpit does the centre forward
not require too much work and section. Styrene rods and look good. Different thickness walls in the same manner as
improvements we will start stretched sprue are ideal for of lead wire and plastic the floor. Section of styrene
working on it now and finish these kinds of tasks, they are wrapped wire have been used rod is added as the cockpit
it before getting back to the easily conformed to any shape for lines and cables, some of light on the left hand side wall.
firewall and engine area. and glued in place with a drop very thin wires were twisted Eduards back side section
Kit cockpit features fairly of Tamiya extra thin cement. and bundled together for more is a great addition and just a
large amount of crisp details Another advantage is the fact realistic look. Upper sections shame it would not be fully
and the only thing missing that you can stretch a sprue of the instrument panel part visible once the pilot seat is
here is a few bundles of in any desirable thickness. Kit are trimmed with modelling installed. With the cockpit tub
cables, wires and pipelines instrument panel back side knife as they are sticking out and most of its details now
to make it look decent. I features some basic details when Eduards pre-painted in place, gun sight is next
will be using Eduards pre but considering the fact that photo etched instrument panel before we can start painting.
painted photo etched parts just a very small part of this is fitted. Bundled thin wires, Combination of kit parts and
for further detailing, not all section will be visible at the lead wires and stretched sprue Eduards photo etched parts
of them though. Lead wire, end, it is enough to make it are used to detail cockpit will make this highly visible

Chapter III
part a real eye candy. Thick and electrical lines and use used to make two rib parts of the junction box.
lead wire is also added and installations. The easiest and sections, one for each side Square section made from
inserted through the upper most convenient thing is to of the junction box. These 2mm thick styrene strip is now
side hole to represent a tube add all the parts and details parts are not that important as glued to the cockpit wall as
for delivering hot air to the gun directly to the cockpit wall they will be visible only when a base for all the little details.
sight glass. Some care must rather than directly on to the looking from certain angle Different gauges of styrene rod
be taken when adding details fuselage. With supercharger from the front and back of the sections are now glued to this
to the gun sight assembly as cold air pipes glued in place, airplane, enough for a little square section to represent
tiny photo etched parts are the cockpit wall fits perfectly to extra effort to make them and connection points for various
making it fragile. the fuselage half and makes to add more realism. Dry fitting installation lines. Smaller
We are now going to add just enough space in between the parts is necessary with gauge rod sections are then
details to the outer left side to fit all the details of the addition of each new element glued to the side of some of
cockpit wall which would be junction box. Now a 0.25mm to this section to ensure that the larger rod sections to make
visible through the opened thick styrene sheet section is everything fits together nicely junction connectors and further
access panels. Larger access fitted to the cockpit wall to as and to avoid fixing things add more life to this area. Fine
panel that we have opened a base for further detailing, later. Cockpit wall is now dry pointed tweezers are used to
reveals the junction box with better solution than filling and fitted to the fuselage and hold and position all the small
various kinds of hydraulic sanding all the gaps on the lead pencil is used from the elements, to glue them in
outer cockpit outside of the fuselage and place it is enough just to touch
wall section. trough the opened access the brush of Tamiya extra thin
Piece of styrene panel to mark the spot where cement with the part.
sheet is now we should place the main Stretched sprue and styrene
Junction box with various installation lines will add more life to the model.
One more dry fit before we start painting just to

make sure everything fits nicely and all of the
elements are visible trough the panel openings.
Even without the paint everything looks nice and
busy with lots of fine and crisp details.

Panel frames have been recessed slightly for more
interesting and three dimensional look.
rod are now used to make of the cockpit wall to be visible avoid too many paint coats UA042 Chrome Yellow in 1
installation lines which can trough the two small access as the green paints used to 1 ratio and airbrushed on
be nicely bent by twisting panels, like on the real Jug. have terribly poor coverage all cockpit parts in two light
them around a piece of brass One more dry fit before we properties, especially LifeColor coats. Fuselage area behind
tube. To add more diversity start painting just to make sure UA042 Chrome Yellow. Outer the cockpit is also airbrushed
and realism we are going to everything fits nicely and all of side of the cockpit wall with with interior green mix and
make T sections by using the elements are visible trough all the installations is painted everything is ready for some
two pieces of styrene rod to the panel openings. Even first. LifeColor UA042 Chrome fading and shading. Tamiya
represent junction connectors without the paint everything Yellow is airbrushed in three X-1 Black is highly diluted with
often found in junction boxes. looks nice and busy with lots thicker coats to get good alcohol and airbrushed from
Each end of this connector is of fine and crisp details. enough coverage, as the very close range around raised
fitted with pieces of styrene As previously with the paint is semi gloss leave a detailed on all cockpit parts
rod or stretched sprue. Two Spitfire, cockpit is primed in few minutes between coats to as well as on the fuselage
parallel styrene rod parts are grey before painting to get all allow it to dry. LifeColor UA006 section behind the cockpit.
now added the forward section the parts in one colour and to Green is mixed with LifeColor Cockpit floor is more heavily
LifeColor UA042 Chrome Yellow is airbrushed in three thicker coats to get good LifeColor UA006 Green is mixed with LifeColor UA042 Chrome Yellow in 1 to 1 ratio and
enough coverage, as the paint is semi gloss leave a few minutes between coats to airbrushed on all cockpit parts in two light coats.
allow it to dry.

Chapter III
Tamiya X-1 Black is highly diluted with alcohol and airbrushed from very close range around raised detailed on all cockpit parts.
treated than the other parts green mix and airbrushed on pressure and close range brush and LifeColor paints are
as the floor is naturally dirtiest open areas between raised works the best. A few drops used for the job. Constantly
section of the cockpit. We can details to create more contrast of white is now added to cleaning the brush with water
as well use overall oil wash and colour variation. Any light interior green mix and used after every few details painted
here but a bit heavier shading yellow-green mix of Tamiya for dry-brushing of the parts will keep it soft and flexible,
will do. A drop of yellow paint paints can be used as well, as they still look a bit too flat otherwise it would stiffen and
is now mixed with our interior diluted with alcohol, high even after fading and shading. make the painting difficult.
Light brush strokes over Brush is lightly wiped off after
raised details will do the trick, every dip in the paint so that
remember that we are dry just small amount is left on the
brushing with brush sides and brush to prevent over-painting
not with the tip, actually it is surrounding elements. Cable
more like dragging a flat brush ties and fasteners are also
over the details. simulated by painting light grey
Gunze Sangyo Mr. Metal or black stripes across some
Color 218 Aluminium can of the wires and installation
be used for dry brushing on lines. For some of the smallest
the cockpit floor around the details we will use Eduards
pedals and areas where pilots pre-painted photo etched
feet would wear and tear parts, mainly placards, throttle
the surface. All the cockpit side cover and map and
features and details are to document case cover. Those
be painted next, fine pointed few details are very nicely
Fuselage section behind the cockpit has received the same shading treatment.

Eduards photo etched pilots
seat looks much better than the
kit part, its much thinner and
more detailed.
Cockpit floor is more heavily

treated than the other parts as
the floor is naturally dirtiest
section of the cockpit. We can
as well use overall oil wash here
but a bit heavier shading will do.
represented with photo etched

parts and look more realistic
than if painted on. Other
cockpit parts are present in
the pack as well but those are
simply too flat and certainly
not appropriate for 32nd scale,
instead i will rather paint the
kit parts which would give us
more three dimensional look.
Switch boards and all the
switches are carefully painted
and the final result is superior
to any pre-painted aftermarket
part. When painting switches, it
is enough just to paint the top
face rather than painting sides
as well, those are to small and
delicate and i would eventually
paint the area around it.
Edges of larger cockpit
elements are carefully painted
A few drops of white is now added to interior green mix and used for dry brushing of the cockpit parts.
in light grey for black parts and
light yellow-green for green
parts to simulate highlights surface details. Pilot seat is is used to make the seat sculpting. Aluminium rollers
and add better feeling of treated in the same manner as cushion, after combining the are used to thin the piece to
depth. Air hose is painted the rest of the cockpit, edges two components we will set it 1.5mm in thickness, a square
black and dry brushed with are painted in light grey to aside for some two hours until shaped piece is then cut out
light grey to accentuate fine add highlights. Magic Sculpt it hardens enough for easier with sharp pointed blade to
All the cockpit features and details are painted with All the cockpit features and details are painted with Simple but very busy looking cockpit wall. Eduard photo
fine pointed brush and LifeColor acrylic paints. fine pointed brush and Life Eduards photo etched etched document case cover is used to replace kit part.
placards are used in the cockpit but all the other
elements are brush painted as photo etched parts look
too flat in this scale while the kit parts have perfect
surface details. Color acrylic paints.

Chapter III
Gunze Sangyo Mr. Metal

Color 218 Aluminium can
be used for dry brushing
on the cockpit floor around
the pedals and areas where
pilots feet would wear and
tear the surface.
Seat cushion is made with Magic Sculpt and improves overall appearance of the seat.
teeth into the part. Last thing Brown followed by an overall inserting transparent film in
to do is to slightly deform oil wash to give it more leather to the frame. Reflector part
corners so they are not sharp like look. is carefully cut out from the
fit the seat. While still barely and perfect and to bend the Gun sight is the last part transparent film and glued
workable, we will add seams cushion so it conforms the left, even though overall black in place with white glue as
along the edges by lightly seat shape. Cushion is then it does not have to be lifeless superglue would mist it. Photo
pressing the modellers saw painted with Tamiya XF-64 Red and boring. After carefully etched crosshair is glued last
Cockpit is carefully dry fitted to check for any potential problems, so far so good. Another angle shows opened panels, junction box and installation lines a bit better.

Even though overall black, the gun sight does not have to be lifeless and boring. Photo etched instrument panel is now glued in place together with side gauge panels.
Eduards photo etched parts make a great deal of difference on this part. As a final step, rudder pedals are dry brushed with Gunze Sangyo Mr. Metal Color 218
Aluminium.
as the most fragile part. By of shiny optics we will add a instrument panel is now glued and ready to be fitted later on.
holding the assembly for the drop of Testors Model Master in place together with side With the cockpit finished, we
plastic section we will add 1790 Chrome Silver at the top gauge panels. As a final step, are now getting back to the
some edge highlights and part of the optics tube, do not rudder pedals are dry brushed engine and firewall section. As
do some light dry brushing, brush it on just touch the part with Gunze Sangyo Mr. Metal the kit water tank is incorrect
just enough to accentuate with the brush and the paint Color 218 Aluminium. Cockpit in shape and size we need to
more details. To get the effect will cover it. Photo etched tub is now carefully assembled make a new one, with Magic
Assembled cockpit tub ready to be fitted in

the fuselage. Note the instrument panel wires,
carefully painted and bent downward.
Another angle shows instrument

panel dials and beautiful details of
the cockpit wall.
Pilot seat is still missing seatbelts

which would be fitted at the end.

Chapter III


Chapter III
As the kit water tank is incorrect in shape and size we will make a new one with
Magic Sculpt, tank left hand side is then drilled to accommodate filler tube which
is made from a piece of styrene rod.
Before we fit the Sculpt of course. After mixing mass to make a seesaw and
water tank in the
firewall section,
equal proportions of the two start pressing one end of the
some details have components we will leave it ruler so it touches the table
been made from aside for some two hours to and then do the same with the
styrene rod and
sheet sections to harden and become more other, repeat a few times with
recreate hydraulic workable. Magic Sculpt can light pressure applied, just
lines and cables.
be worked right after mixing like the seesaw. This process
the two components but at will give us sort of rectangular
that point it is too soft and cross section of the piece but
sticky, we would need to use without sharp angles. Now,
a lot of water on our fingers as wet your fingers with water
well as on tools to prevent the and start rounding the piece
mass sticking to everything it around the sides by moving
touches. We can also use talc index fingers around the piece.
powder as well but either way When we get the desired
New water tank the mass will still be very soft shape, we will smooth the
fits perfectly and and difficult to keep its shape. entire piece by gently rubbing
will look good If we leave it aside to harden,
once painted and
it with wet index fingers. we
weathered, a piece the mass become more solid can also use sculpting or
of BluTac can be and easier to work with, it does dentists tools. The piece is
used to temporarily
hold the tank in not stick as much and does now set aside to fully cure
place while adding not deform easily. Making of overnight, we will then use
some of the cables
and installation
the water tank starts with the some sanding paper to correct
lines. cube shape which is placed on its shape if needed. Smoothing
a piece of styrene sheet just with wet fingers will make the
to avoid sticking the mass on surface as smooth as glass
the work surface. Plastic ruler and to paint it we would need
is now moistened with water to do some sanding with fine
and we can start deforming sanding paper.
the cube to get desired shape. Water tank left hand side is
Place the ruler at the top of the then drilled to accommodate

Junction boxes of various shapes
and sizes are made from styrene
rod and strip sections and
attached to the frame beams.
Holes are drilled on each of the
junction boxes for easier addition
of the wires and cables.
filler tube which is made

from a piece of styrene rod.
Larger diameter rod section
is used to make a filler cap.
Firewall elements dry fitted to the fuselage for one last time to check if anything needs to be fixed before the painting.
Sections of styrene rod, tube
and strip are used to make
most of the firewall installation fitted a few times to check if the junction boxes for easier tiny drop of Tamiya extra thin
elements. Rigid hydraulic lines everything goes along nicely, addition of the wires and cement, when the glue cures
have been made from 0.4 a piece of BluTac can be used cables. Small rectangular simply cut off excess material
and 0.5mm styrene rod bent to temporarily hold the tank pieces of self adhesive vinyl with sharp pointed blade or
over brass tube to get nice in place while adding some are placed on some of the small scissors. Everything is
bevelled angles. Tamiya extra of the cables and installation boxes to represent placards. now dry fitted to the fuselage
thin cement is used to glue lines. Some ring clamps are placed for one last time to check if
everything the main firewall Engine supporting frame randomly on the frame beams anything needs to be fixed
part. Small pieces of styrene is now detailed furthermore as well as behind the junction before the painting.
strip are glued to the firewall before the painting. Junction boxes for more realistic look Main firewall section is
frame and some holes are boxes of various shapes and and feel. To make a ring now airbrushed with Alclad II
drilled trough to accommodate sizes are made from styrene clamp simply wrap a tiny strip Duraluminium ALC-102 without
lines and cables coming from rod and strip sections and of styrene around the frame any primer or special surface
and to the fuselage and the attached to the frame beams. beam, hold the ends with fine preparation. Two light coats
cockpit. Water tank is dry Holes are drilled on each of pointed tweezers and apply a are sprayed on and left aside
Main firewall section is airbrushed with Alclad II Tamiya X-1 Black is used for shading which is now Water tank is painted with Alclad II Semi Matt
Duraluminium ALC-102 without any primer or special rather random than just concentrated around recessed Aluminium ALC-116 and then sealed with LifeColor
surface preparation in two light coats and left aside to areas and angles. This area of the aircraft is very LC27 Matt Clear. Two vertical strips are now masked of
fully dry. dirty, dusty and oily and so the shading is a bit heavier. and painted black to represent the tank fastener belts,
Overall oil wash can be applied as well. actually the black strips are rubber that goes beneath
the steel belts.

Chapter III
Forward fuselage inside sections are airbrushed with Alclad II White Aluminium ALC- LifeColor LC27 Matt Clear is applied next followed by shading with Tamiya X-1 mixed
106 also without previously priming the surface. with XF-64 Red Brown.
Heavily weathered and stained, our firewall now looks like it really saw some action. Dry fit test before we glue fuselage halves together.

When using LifeColor paints on multi coloured parts, it is necessary to prime all the Painting the two sections of engine supporting frame and forward firewall separately,
parts to avoid different tones of the paint as a result of poor coverage. not necessary but gives more control of the final appearance as the front part will be
more weathered and warn off.
The same interior green mix we used Overall Burnt Umber oil wash is applied Large clean brush is used to remove Details on the oil cooler air intake
for the cockpit is now airbrushed on the next. excess oils and to blend everything tube are painted with fine pointed
front section. nicely. More black oil paint can be brush, aluminium section between belt
added to darken this area further as it is fasteners is painted with Gunze Sangyo
located behind the engine and some soot Mr. Metal Color 218 Aluminium. This
and black dust would be present. section is now done and awaiting the
engine to be fitted.
to dry for an hour or so. Alclad lift varnish of the surface. To look good. Mesh cloth will section now done we will dry
II Dark Aluminium ALC-103 is simulate those, we will cut remove layers of Tamiya paint fit everything once more before
then sprayed in cloud pattern two thin strips of self adhesive and oil wash leaving very fine the fuselage halves are glued
to make subtle variation in aluminium tape and place it and nice looking scratches together. Some extra care is
colour. Water tank is painted over the two black strips so where the clean aluminium needed when mating fuselage
with Alclad II Semi Matt that a little bit of black is visible paint breaks trough. Same halves together as some
Aluminium ALC-116 and then from both sides of aluminium procedure is now used on the pieces will need to be nudged
sealed with LifeColor LC27 strip. Highly diluted Tamiya water tank. a little before everything seats
Matt Clear. It is not necessary X-1 Black is used for shading Forward fuselage inside together nicely. Next in line is
or advisable to seal Alclad which is now rather random sections are airbrushed with the engine supporting frame
Lacquers but in this case than just concentrated around Alclad II White Aluminium ALC- and forward firewall. As we
it will provide a good base recessed areas and angles. 106 also without previously have white parts here we will
for weathering. Two vertical This area of the aircraft is very priming the surface. LifeColor airbrush it with the primer first
strips are now masked of and dirty, dusty and oily and so the LC27 Matt Clear is applied as the green paint will turn out
painted black to represent the shading is a bit heavier. Overall next followed by shading with lighter if sprayed directly on to
tank fastener belts, actually oil wash can be applied as Tamiya X-1 mixed with XF-64 the white surface. The same
the black strips are rubber well. Once everything is dry we Red Brown. Mesh cloth can interior green mix we used for
that goes beneath the steel will take a mesh cloth and start be used here as well to gently the cockpit is then airbrushed
belts. Before masking over any rubbing the parts gently and rub off some of the shading followed by shading with
kind of varnish applied over randomly. Any paint applied and clear varnish. Overall Burnt Tamiya X-1 Black. Overall Burnt
Alclad, use masks on palms over Alclad is removed easily Umber oil wash is applied Umber oil wash is applied
of your hands a few time until while Alclad surface is very and everything set aside for next. Details on the oil cooler
the adhesive is almost all tough, this will make our job a few hours to fully dry. With air intake tube are painted with
gone otherwise it will easily easier and the final result will the cockpit and the firewall fine pointed brush, aluminium

Chapter III
Our first step is to add some details to the back side of the engine, starter and LifeColor UA045 Non Specular Intermediate Blue is mixed with equal portion of LC01
high speed generator are made from Magic Sculpt parts turned on Unimat lathe. Matt White and airbrushed on the engine in two light coats.
Supercharger to carburettor pipe mount is taken from the kit and attached to the
upper back side of the engine as it will be visible once everything is finished.
Tamiya X-1 Black is now used for shading to create shadows and more depth to all the Burnt Umber overall oil wash is next to give the engine oily and used look, generously
beautiful details present on this part. applied and then smoothed and blended with clean and dry flat brush. Back section of
the engine is further treated with black oil paint nicely blended with layer below.
section between belt fasteners

is painted with Gunze Sangyo
Mr. Metal Color 218 Aluminium.
This section is now done and
awaiting the engine to be
fitted.
Kit engine assembly is a
build on its own, a lot of crisply
moulded parts and details
combined with Eduards
photo etched set will look
amazing once assembled
and painted, however, another
thing got my attention a lot
before i even started working
on the Thunderbolt - Vector
resin #32001 Pratt & Whitney
R-2800A/B. This is my first
resin engine from Vector and i
must say it is simply amazing
down to the smallest detail, it
does require some additions
and will look superb once
Gear box cover, centre front finished. Our first step is to
section, is now gently rubbed
with clean and dry paper towel add some details to the back
to remove as much oil paint as side of the engine, starter
possible so it becomes more
blue-grey than brown. This
and high speed generator
section of the engine is usually
96 BUILDING THE AIRCRAFT - P-47D THUNDERBOLT a bit cleaner than the rest of it.

Cylinders are now painted with LifeColor Dry-brushing is done by brushing the Burnt Umber is then mixed with small Clean brush is used to remove excess
UA207 Schwarz Grau as a base for dry- cylinder vertically to avoid silver paint of amount of black oil and applied over the oil paint and restore metallic look to the
brushing with Tamiya X-32 Titanium getting into recessed areas. entire surface. cylinder.
Silver.
are made from Magic Sculpt and airbrushed on the engine black oil paint nicely blended dry-brushing with Tamiya
parts turned on Unimat lathe. in two light coats. Tamiya X-1 with layer below. Gear box X-32 Titanium Silver. This
Supercharger to carburettor Black is now used for shading cover, centre front section, is combination will leave
pipe mount is taken from to create shadows and more now gently rubbed with clean recessed areas painted black
the kit and attached to the depth to all the beautiful details and dry paper towel to remove while all of the raised details
upper back side of the engine present on this part. Burnt as much oil paint as possible will be nicely accentuated with
as it will be visible once Umber overall oil wash is next so it becomes more blue-grey silver. Dry-brushing is done by
everything is finished. Main to give the engine oily and than brown. This section of the brushing the cylinder vertically
engine section is now ready used look, generously applied engine is usually a bit cleaner
for painting. LifeColor UA045 and then smoothed and than the rest of it. Cylinders are now carefully
Non Specular Intermediate blended with clean and dry Cylinders are now painted positioned and glued with
superglue to the main engine
Blue is mixed with equal flat brush. Back section of the with LifeColor UA207 part, one by one making sure
portion of LC01 Matt White engine is further treated with Schwarz Grau as a base for they are all aligned properly and
facing the right direction.

Chapter III
Exhaust pipes are painted with LifeColor UA207 Schwarz Burnt Umber mixed with black oil paint is applied next. Excess oil is removed with clean brush.
Grau followed by random dry-brush painting with Tamiya
X-32 Titanium Silver.
to avoid silver paint of getting same time, is does not only and fragile details, it is a good is done by stabbing motions
into recessed areas. Burnt saves time but ensures that all idea add exhaust pipes first. of the brush rather than if we
Umber is then mixed with of the cylinders are finished in By doing this we are trying to were wiping the dust from the
small amount of black oil and the same manner. Cylinders avoid handling the engine too part. Brush is dipped in paint
applied over the entire surface. are now carefully positioned much with all the tiny parts and cleaned on the paper
Clean brush is used to remove and glued with superglue to mounted on. Exhaust pipes towel until the point when no
excess oil mix from the part the main engine part, one by are treated the same way as more visible traces of the paint
followed by more cleaning of one making sure they are all the cylinders, LifeColor UA207 are present on the paper. Part
the lower cylinder section with aligned properly and facing the Schwarz Grau is airbrushed is now dry-brush painted with
paper towel or cotton swab to right direction. The engine now first followed by random dry- stabbing motions of the brush,
get more of burnt oil stain look. looks very nice, dirty and used brush painting with Tamiya some force is used in order to
As with any other area with even with just a few basic parts X-32 Titanium Silver. Classic transfer small traces of paint to
many same parts it is the best on. Before we continue adding dry-brushing is a bit different the part. We are after the effect
to work on all of them at the wires and all the other small from dry-brush painting which of bare metal pipe blackened
Some careful manoeuvres and a few nudges are required to insert the engine into the Tight fit and almost no glue required, shame that the back side of the engine will be
opening mainly because of that carburettor intake we fitted from the kit. barely visible once everything comes together.

from smoke and oil stains square piece of medium heads. Magnetos are
even though our painting coarse sanding paper painted with LifeColor
process is reversed. is bent in half and used UA207 Schwarz Grau and
Engine is now test along the channel so glued in place. Pushrods
fitted to the frame and that both channel walls are made from styrene
forward firewall to check are sanded at the same rod, painted with Tamiya
if everything fits nicely. time. Be careful here not X-1 Black and carefully
Some careful manoeuvres to thin the walls too much mounted with fine pointed
and a few nudges are by carefully pushing the tweezers. Ignition ring
required to insert the sanding paper all the holes are now made
engine into the opening way around the ring in wider and deeper to
mainly because of that one stroke. Small holes accommodate copper wire
carburettor intake we fitted are then drilled trough used for ignition cables.
from the kit. Kit forward the ring in pairs of two When adding ignition
cowl supporting ring is to simulate cowl fastener wires we will go in pairs Triangle shaped file is used on the
forward cowl supporting ring to
correct in shape and holes. BluTac is used to of two again, adding two score the shallow channel along
size but it is a solid ring temporarily fit the ring wires and then securing rings outer surface, Tamiya scriber
while we need a channel to the engine so we can them with a drop of is then used to make it deeper and
wider so we can shape it further
section. Triangle shaped mark contact points superglue. Once the with the sanding paper.
file is used to score the between cylinders and glue is fully cured we will
shallow channel along the ring. Small pieces adjust the wires and trim
rings outer surface, of 0.5mm styrene rod of the excess with small
Tamiya scriber is then are then glued on those sharp scissors. With all
used to make it deeper marked points also in the wires in place it is time
and wider so we can pairs of two with small to paint them brown, fine
shape it further with the space between them to pointed brush is used for
sanding paper. A small accommodate cylinder this. Small strips of self
Connection points between ignition ring and wires are then painted silver as well as some rings
above the strips. Our Pratt & Whitney R-2800 is now finished.
Magnetos are painted with LifeColor

UA207 Schwarz Grau and glued
in place. Pushrods are made from
styrene rod, painted with Tamiya X-1
Black and carefully mounted with fine
pointed tweezers. Copper wire is used
for ignition wires.
Ignition wires are painted brown

and small strips of self adhesive
aluminium tape are then wrapped
around each pair of wires roughly
around the mid section of cylinders.

Chapter III


Chapter III
Instead of making one fragile

and delicate assembly i will
simply glue all of the cowl flaps
on to the kit part.
so we have to make a new
one. Thin aluminium strip
3mm wide is used to make Small jewellers hammer is
U channel with a little help then used to flatten the sides
of The Small Shops large of aluminium part after which
photo etch bending tool. With the kit part is removed.
3mm wide aluminium strip, Although Eduard has
we will have 1mm for each supplied all the bits and
All the fasteners are now removed from the cowl supporting ring located in front of
the cowl flaps in order to use it as a template for bending aluminium channel. channel wall and 1mm for pieces to assemble cowling
the bottom section. All the flaps i have decided to go
adhesive aluminium tape are ignition ring and wires are then fasteners are now removed with a little different approach.
then wrapped around each painted silver as well as some from the kit part in order to use Instead of making one fragile
pair of wires roughly around rings above the strips. With this it as a template for bending and delicate assembly i will
the mid section of cylinders. last step our engine is finished. aluminium channel. One end simply glue all of the cowl
Strips are wrapped from front As new resin engine will be of the kit part is placed in the flaps on to the kit part. Easier
to back so we can hide strip fitted to the model a few more channel which is then carefully to assemble and looks equally
ends behind. Fine pointed kit parts need to be sorted out conformed to the part from good. Kit part recessed lines
tweezers are then used to in order for everything to come the inside and thus forming between the flaps are first filled
press mid section of the together. Cowl supporting ring a new ring. At the end, a kit with Tamiya putty and then
strip between the two wires. located in front of the cowl part should end up fitting the the entire surface is sanded
Connection points between flaps does not fit anymore channel from the outside. with coarse sanding paper
Six tubes are cut to match the length of kit launchers To drill the holes perfectly aligned with the top of the Kit assembly compared to our scratchbuilt rocket
and then glued together with superglue. tube, both launchers are place next to each other and launchers, the difference is obvious.
the still ruler is then pulled a few times over the tubes,
it will leave visible trace that is at centred at the top.

to make a better surface for Eduard photo
superglue to get a grip on. etched parts will
greatly improve
Same thing is then done with back side of the
photo etched flaps, back side rocket launcher.
All the tiny bits
is sanded with coarse sanding should glued just
paper while the parts are still before the painting
on their sprues. One by one to avoid breaking
them off.
flaps are detached from the
sprue and then slightly curved
by pressing them on top of
aluminium cylinder from The
Small Shops rolling set. We
need to make a perfect fit with
entire part surface. One by
one flaps are then glued with
superglue to the kit part. Photo
etched cowl flaps are then
sanded with very fine sanding
paper in order to get a good
surface for the paint. With the
engine area now done, we
will move on to the fuselage
corrections, armament and have some details but the decided to make everything and then glued together with
ordnance before we start with assembly looks like a part of from scratch rather than spend superglue. When gluing the
painting of the model. a cheap toy. Fasteners are hours of correcting kit parts, tubes together align them
I have always loved the moulded together with the how complicated can it be first, tape them with a piece
look of those 4.5 inch rocket tubes which are not hollow, anyway. For 4.5 inch rockets of masking tape and then
launchers hanging under the back end looks funny and i in 32nd scale, our new tubes pour some superglue in to the
wings and decided to skip doubt it would be acceptable should have 3.5mm inner centre opening between the
the bombs and mount rocket for 72nd scale let alone diameter, that is 4mm outer tubes. Few drops at a time
launchers only. After inspection anything bigger. As those belt diameter if we use brass tubes. so that the glue can slowly
of box parts it is obvious that fasteners are the worst part Six tubes are cut to match run down between the pipes.
those are unusable. They do and cannot be fixed i have the length of kit launchers Keep a paper town bellow to
Belt fasteners are made from self adhesive vinyl cut in 1.5mm strips and wrapped around the tubes.

Chapter III
prevent overspill. Once the glue

is fully cured, we will use Tamiya
putty to seal centre opening
between the pipes and later
smooth everything with sanding
paper, coarse first and then very
fine to get nice and smooth
surface. Next step is to drill two
holes on top of each launcher to
fix the top supporting tube and
hangers. As the holes need to
be perfectly aligned we will use
a little trick to mark the top line
on the tubes. Both launchers
are place next to each other
and the still ruler is then pulled
a few times over the tubes, it
will leave visible trace that is
at centred at the top. Distance
Fuel tank is now put together and sanded with
from each end of the launcher very fine wet sanding paper just enough to leave
to the hanger hole is measured barely visible surface scratches as a base for
Alclad paint. Eduard photo etched parts have
and holes drilled. Hangers are been added after sanding.
made from hypodermic needles Wheel wells are painted with LifeColor UA042 Chrome Yellow
and styrene rod. Supporting in a few thicker coats. Tamiya X-1 Black is then used for a bit
heavier shading followed by overall Burnt Umber oil wash.
tube is made from 1.5mm brass

tube which has been drilled to and sanded with very fine wet
accommodate hangers. With sanding paper just enough Wheel well covers are
treated in the same way.
the top section mounted, brass to leave barely visible surface
tube sections are inserted at scratches. As we are going
the back end of launchers so to paint the tank with Alclad
that the section left outside is II lacquers surface has to be
7mm long. Back end tubes flat rather than very smooth to
which are then sealed with get the best effect of used and
pieces of sprue which is then weathered aluminium. Eduard
dome shaped with sanding photo etched parts are glued
sticks. Eduard photo etched on at the end before panting to
parts are then mounted on avoid breaking anything of.
the back end tubes. To make Our next task is to paint
belt fasteners i am going to wheel bays and covers before
use self adhesive vinyl, cut in we mate wing halves together.
1.5mm strips and wrapped LifeColor UA042 Chrome
around the tubes starting at Yellow is airbrushed in a few
the base of the top supporting thicker coats because of its
tube. All of the strips are then poor coverage. Tamiya X-1 really make a huge difference. and any deformation will reflect
further secured in place with Black is then used for a bit Wings are now carefully glued the light in different direction
a touch of superglue at the heavier shading followed to the fuselage with a lot of thus making it to stick out from
starting and ending point. by overall Burnt Umber oil aligning and nudging. Model surrounding. As i have already
Everything is now painted wash. Wheel well covers are is now set aside for the glue mentioned, Trumpeters kit has
in olive drab and shaded painted and weathered in the to fully cure. Before we start its flaws and we need to sort
with Tamiya X-1 Black along same way. Wings are now painting the model there are those out in order to get not
recessed areas and the assembled and all the seams a few things that we need to only satisfying but superb paint
front section. I have spent sanded. I am going to display take care of. When applying finish. First thing is the gun
a couple of hours making the model with one gun bay natural metal finish to a model barrel cover on both wings.
rocket launchers but the end opened so the next thing is even the smallest surface Once glued in place these
result is highly superior to kit to add all of the photo etched deformation or crack will be parts will sink into the wing
parts, well worth the effort. parts to the gun bay, very highly visible because metallic leading edge which is a bit of
Fuel tank is now put together welcomed addition which will paint reflects light very well a problem.
Fillet between vertical and horizontal stabilizer is present on the right hand side while it is barely visible on the
opposite side. Narrow vinyl strip is used to mark the filet line and placed on the model to meet the fillet from the
front side of the model. Tamiya putty is now used in a few thin layers to raise the surface on the left hand side
and make the fillet clearly visible and in level with the opposite side of the fuselage.
Masking tape is used to mark the gun barrel cover

outline used for cutting vinyl template later.
Gun barrel cover area is masked off and

Tamiya putty applied in a few thin coats. Wet
and dry sanding paper is then used to level
and smooth filled area.

Chapter III
use any other glue. Vinyl can engine area. Since we have
Wheel bay is filled with paper tissue also be painted over just like painted everything with water
to support masking tape. Use sharp
pointed blade to cut the tape along the plastic. Another correction based acrylic paints a thin coat
the edge of the wheel bay. is also needed at the tail of lacquer matt varnish will be
section of the kit. As a result of sprayed on the wheel bays if
poor moulding, fillet between we are to use so called wet
vertical and horizontal stabilizer masking. Wet paper tissue
is present on the right hand is like a sculpting clay and
side while it is barely visible makes a perfect material for
on the opposite side. If we masking areas like the wheel
paint the model without doing bay. Pieces of paper tissue
anything about this it would are soaked in water and then
certainly look bad. Narrow vinyl used to fill the bays up the
strip is used to mark the filet top. Sculpting tool or tweezers
line and placed on the model can be used to refine the
Gun barrel covers should curing time between layers. to meet the fillet from the front top edges. In this case, i am
actually be slightly raised from Once the putty is fully cured, side of the model. Tamiya going to use another masking
the wing leading edge surface sand everything with medium putty is now used in a few thin system with Tamiya masking
due to the fact that those were coarse sanding paper while layers to raise the surface on tape. Pieces of tape are placed
metal sheets placed on top masking tape is still on. Fine the left hand side and make over the wheel bay so that they
of the wing surface. This is an wet sanding paper is used the fillet clearly visible and in cover the surrounding areas
easy correction which starts next to smooth everything flat level with the opposite side of as well. Sharp pointed blade
with marking the cover on a with the wing surface after the the fuselage. After a few hours is then used to cut the tape
piece of Tamiya masking tape tape has been removed. Piece of drying time, filler is gently along the edge of wheel bay.
so we can make the proper of tape with marked cover on sanded with fine wet sanding Before placing the tape we can
cover later. Now, masking it is now placed over thicker paper while the vinyl strip is put some dry paper tissues in
tape is used to mask off the self adhesive vinyl and cut still on the model, just like we the wheel bay to support the
area in question so we can out by using steel ruler and did on the gun barrel cover tape even though there is a
fill it with Tamiya putty, 3 - 4 sharp pointed blade. Vinyl earlier. Last thing before we step along the edge that can
layers should be enough but adhesive is strong and long start airbrushing is to mask off do the job.
make sure to leave some lasting so there is no need to wheel bays, cockpit and the The tape is then carefully
Cockpit and the firewall

areas is carefully masked
with Tamiya masking tape
and small gaps filled with
BluTac.

Placed under the lamp for inspection, light is making a clear shadow along the gap that stretches almost along the entire models lower surface.
placed along the drilled strips be highly visible once the deformations and errors. Place You will notice that a few coats
that support the engine bay metalizer is airbrushed on. the model under the lamp and of primer are toned down the
covers and if needed some Also, when priming a model as rotate it slowly while looking rivets a bit and they are not as
tape is placed from the inside a preparation for natural metal the surface for any dark deep and noticeable as before
to fill any gaps on the side. finish it is advisable to use shadow spots marking the which is a good thing.
Cockpit is masked with small primer-filler instead of just any gaps. Mark any problematic Now to the metal finish.
pieces of masking tape and grey paint. My choice is Gunze areas with highlight marker or There is no best or ultimate
any gaps filled with BluTac. Sangyo Mr Surfacer 1000 lead pencil. method for achieving natural
You can notice that the canopy which is a liquid filler-primer The most noticeable is the metal finish and every single
will be masked and painted ideal as a base for metallic bottom side seam between model that i have done has
separately and then mounted paints. A drop or two of the two fuselage halves which been painted in slightly
at the end. This way the lacquer thinner is added to the was invisible before the primer. different way. Experimenting
canopy will be well protected primer before we airbrush it on This gap is filled with Tamiya is a key word here especially
and cleaned after painting the model. Primer is airbrushed putty and sanded smooth with having in mind that not all of
to remain crystal clear. Side at a bit higher pressure at very fine wet sanding paper. the real natural metal aircraft
openings are masked with 20PSI and in two or three After filling and sanding all the were the same as aluminium
pieces of semi transparent thin layers with a few minutes gaps the primer is airbrushed can vary from bright and
vinyl. of drying time between the again for another check. Once shiny to dark and dull, this
When painting models layers. Once done we will set everything looks good it is time depends on many factors
with metalizer paints it is the model aside for a couple to polish the model with Alclad like age, weather conditions,
necessary to apply the primer of hours so the primer can Micromesh Cloth, keep the theatre of operations and so
coat for one reason, primer fully dry. We will then carefully model surface wet and gently on. I will try to explain one
will reveal any gaps and inspect the entire surface of rub with the cloth until it is like of my techniques for natural
surface errors which would the model for possible gaps, a glass, smooth and shiny. metal painting using Alclad II

Chapter III


Chapter III
Painting starts with two lights

coats of Alclad II Polished
Aluminium ALC-105 which will
be our base for further painting
techniques.
ALC-103, one light coat on

some of the panels and two or
three coats on some others to
further create slight differences
between panels. We are after
a subtle variation in shininess
and colour, nothing too vibrant.
D-Day stripes and markings
are next and before we start
playing with effects on metal
finish again. All the markings,
roundels, fuselage and tail
codes and D-Day stripes
are painted on using masks
while Hobby Decal P-47 dry
transfer stencils are used for
small elements like propeller
blade logos, pilot name and
similar. When working with
dry transfers, make sure
you keep them in resealable
bag as they will become
rigid and difficult to apply
otherwise. The tail numbers
and identification stripes are
masked off first followed by
wings and fuselage masking.
As we are going to paint
D-Day stripes, outline of entire
stripe area is masked of first
by using narrow strips of
masking tape as narrow strips
are more flexible as easier
to work with on curved and
irregular surfaces. To keep
the straight line try to follow
panel lines that is to keep the
masking strip parallel to those
lines. When we have outlined
D-Day stripe sections on wings
lacquers and Gunze Sangyo to give some colour variation. and fuselage, LifeColor LC01
Alclad II is a great thing for Mr Metal paints. Painting After one overall coat with Matt White is airbrushed on
metal finishes but simply
airbrushing it on the model
starts with two lights coats of Duraluminium we can spray in two or three thicker coats
would not make a masterpiece Alclad II Polished Aluminium more of it on the model in and left to fully dry. Pieces
of it. Paint finish now looks too ALC-105 which will be our cloudy pattern to further create of plastic bag can be used
uniform and shiny.
base for further painting difference in shininess for more to cover larger areas instead
techniques. An hour later, a realistic look. of using masking tape. We
thin coat of Duraluminium Randomly chosen panels will now make invasion line
ALC-102 is airbrushed on to are now masked off and spacers to help us make
tone down polished look and sprayed with Dark Aluminium them all the same width. Wing

Randomly chosen panels are now masked off and
sprayed with Dark Aluminium ALC-103, one light
coat on some of the panels and two or three coats
on some others to further create slight differences
between panels.
invasions stripes are 16mm wide,

fuselage stripes 14.3mm while
the tail identification stripes are
12mm wide. 16mm long masking
strips are placed on the wings so
that they touch the outline masks
and then mask the area between
those markers which should
remain white. Roundel masks are
now placed on the white area of
the fuselage followed by 14.3mm
long markers and masking of The tail numbers and identification stripes are masked D-Day stripe areas is outlined and the rest of the model
off first followed by wings and fuselage masking as we can be masked of with a piece of plastic bag, much
the section between them. Same want to paint all black areas in one go. simpler and faster than covering the entire thing with
masking procedure is now used masking tape.
for the landing flaps. Cowl and
propeller are masked as well as we
are going to use the same paint for
invasion stripe, tail stripe, propeller
and all the other black painted
areas. Everything is now airbrushed
with LifeColor UA207 Schwarz Grau
or Revell Enamel 09 Matt Anthracite
Grey, again no absolute and pure
black but rather a bit faded black.
Wing roundel outline masks are
Landing flaps are masked for the white paint to be 16mm long masking strips are placed on the wings so
airbrushed first. that they touch the outline masks and we then mask the
area between those markers strips which should remain
white. Use of these marker strip will make it easier for
us to get equal invasion stripe widths.

Chapter III
Invasion stripe areas on the fuselage is outlined with masking strips,

painted white and the roundel mask placed on. Once we pant the black
stripe, area underneath the mask will remain white for the star while the
dark blue will be airbrushed later.
All the parts have been masked and ready to receive a coat of
LifeColor UA207 Schwarz Grau or Revell Enamel 09 Matt Anthracite
Grey, no pure black paint.

placed next and first painted
white and then with star back
in place surrounding area is
painted dark blue. Nose art
is also painted using masks
and Revell 36 Matt Carmine
Red which is also used on
landing flaps to paint red
squares. Everything is now
set aside overnight to fully dry
and later gently wet sanded
with Alclad Micromesh cloths
to smooth the surface to satin
finish. Properly dried LifeColor
paints can be wet sanded just
like any enamel or lacquer
paint. Gunze Sangyo Mr. Metal
Color 218 Aluminium is now
used to create realistic metal
finish effects on the model.
Propeller spinner is treated
first but before doing so, we
have to prepare the surface.
Alclad Micromesh cloths are
used wet from medium to very
fine to smooth and polish the
spinner. Tamiya fine polishing
compound is then applied
with paper tissue and rubbed
for a few minutes until the
part becomes shiny like gloss
coated. Very small amount of
Mr. Metal Color 218 Aluminium
is now applied on the top
of the spinner with small
flat brush. We will now hold
the propeller assembly from
the back side and cover the
spinner with paper tissue, now
by twisting the spinner in the
paper tissues we are actually
dispersing the metalizer in
very thin layer and polishing
it at the same time. It is
wise to mask propellers and
everything except of spinner
cap to prevent transferring
metalizer paint. Two minutes
or so of spinning the prop
assembly left and right should
do the trick, spinner is now
very shiny and looks like it
was actually made from metal.
Same technique is now used
on the rest of the model, Mr.
Metal Color 218 Aluminium
is first applied randomly with
flat brush and a few moments
later polished and dispersed
with clean paper tissue
wrapped around index finger.
When applying Mr. Metal Color
metalizers with brush, clean
the brush with paper tissue
first so that very small amount

Chapter III
Fresh from the factory, clean and shiny, we are going to change that now.
Nose art is painted using masks and Revell 36 Matt Carmine Red. Very small amount of Mr. Metal Color 218 Aluminium is applied on the top of the
spinner with small flat brush and then buffed with clean paper tissue for a couple of
minutes for shiny and realistic metal finish.

Mr. Metal Color 218 Aluminium is applied randomly on metal surfaces of the model Different spots will get different amount of buffing to create more interesting and
and gently buffed with paper tissue, not too much buffing to avoid shiny finish. realistic metal finish. The main goal is to get some areas more shiny than the others.
of paint remains on the brush, is not a problem as all those tend to mix with each other, used on the canopy while it
do not brush the model with elements are painted with something that we would never is still masked to prevent any
soaked brush as this will acrylic paints while Mr. Metal normally do will now actually paint crossing over on to the
accumulate too much of the Color 218 Aluminium is enamel create interesting effect. A clear areas. Removing the
paint on the model surface based paint and it is easily couple of hours later when oil paint from transparent parts
and will not look good once removed with cotton swab wash is dry we will repeat the with enamel thinner would
polished. Try to make random soaked in enamel thinner. process of polishing with clean damage and mist them. Gun
scratches and splotches with Natural metal finish now looks paper tissue wrapped around bay has been masked off
dry-brush technique but with good and uneven but still a the index finger, this tame and airbrushed with LifeColor
some pressure applied so that bit flat so we are going to gently and without too much UA042 Chrome Yellow. Highly
enough paint remains on the do panel line wash with oils pressure and until oil wash diluted Tamiya X-1 Black is
model. When polishing and next. Burnt Umber oil paint is smudges start to disappear. As now used for shading areas
dispersing the metalizer do it mixed with a little bit of black oil wash is now mixing with the in the gun bay and along the
randomly and with different oil and highly diluted with base metalizer paint, we are main panel lines on the aircraft
pressure of the finger so that enamel thinner. Small fine getting darker and smudged but also behind exhausts as a
some areas are more shiny pointed brush is now used surface areas. More oil that dark base before more brown
than the others, this will also to apply the wash on panel mix with the base paint will is airbrushed on. Mix of Tamiya
create slight colour intensity lines and most of the rivets. create less reflective spots X-1 Black and XF-10 Flat
variation which further adds to Generally try to keep as little and will give us weathered Brown is used for landing flaps
realism. mess as possible by drawing and distressed look of the shading as well as for wing
During the polishing some straight lines with the brush model. Once again, metalizer leading edges, aircraft bottom
metalizer paint will end up on over rivet and panel lines. As over-paint is cleaned with side, landing gear and behind
invasion stripes, anti glare both metalizer paint and wash cotton swab soaked in enamel exhausts.
surface and markings which are oil-enamel based they will thinner. Same procedure is Kit .50 cal Browning guns
Small fine pointed brush is now used to apply the wash on panel lines and most of the As both metalizer paint and wash are oil-enamel based they will tend to mix with each
rivets. Generally try to keep as little mess as possible by drawing straight lines with other, something that we would never normally do will now actually create interesting
the brush over rivet and panel lines. effect. Once oil wash is dry, more buffing will mix the base Mr. Metal Color 218
Aluminium with oil wash which will further create more diverse surface appearance.

Chapter III


Chapter III
Kit .50 cal Browning guns have

been assembled without barrels
and painted with LifeColor UA207
Schwarz Grau as a base for
dry-brushing which is done with
Mr. Metal Color 218 Aluminium.
After dry-brushing the guns are
airbrushed with very thin coat of
Tamiya X-1 Black to tone down
shininess and make the finish
more like gun metal.
Hypodermic needles are used to make gun barrels after which everything is carefully fitted to the gun bay. Kit vinyl have been assembled without
ammo belts are used as being more realistic than Eduard photo etched parts.
barrels and painted with
LifeColor UA207 Schwarz Grau
as a base for dry-brushing
which is done with Mr. Metal
Color 218 Aluminium, our all
purpose magical paint. After
dry-brushing the guns are
airbrushed with very thin coat
of Tamiya X-1 Black to tone
down shininess and make the
finish more like gun metal.
Hypodermic needles are then
used to make gun barrels and
everything is carefully fitted
to the gun bay. Eduard photo
etched parts are used to make
gun feed belts while the ammo
belts are taken from the kit,
they still look more realistic
than photo etched ones.
Ammo belts are painted with

Mix of Tamiya X-1 Black and XF-10 Flat Brown is used for landing flaps shading as Fat bird looks mean even without the engine.
well as for wing leading edges, aircraft bottom side, landing gear and behind exhausts
area. Access panel frames are brush painted with LifeColor UA042 Chrome Yellow and
later received thin layer of Burnt Umber oil wash.
Alclad II Polished Brass ALC- UA042 Chrome Yellow and in the same manner as the to the engine area for the last
109 without any prior priming. later received thin layer of rest of the aircraft with more time to add wires and cable
Black paint is then brushed Burnt Umber oil paint diluted accentuated brown shading to lines but also to make new
along the centre section of the with enamel thinner for more simulate ground dust and dirt supercharger to carburettor
belt to simulate joints. weathered look. Wheels, accumulated on lower sections pipes as those from the kit
Access panel frames are wheel bay covers and landing of the aircraft. are no longer fitting in. All the
brush painted with LifeColor gear struts are weathered We are now getting back small details have already
Wheels, wheel bay covers and landing gear struts are weathered in the same manner as the rest of the aircraft with more accentuated brown shading to simulate ground
dust and dirt accumulated on lower sections of the aircraft.

Chapter III
Engine assembly still

looks a bit barren
without all the wires
and cables.
Lead and plastic flexible wires

are used for most of the lines with
thicker plastic wires used from and
to the oil tank and oil cooler while
the lead wires have been used for
rigid lines and hydraulic pipes.
been painted on the firewall white and black paint. Four Magic Sculpt is now used cured we will then gently shape
and engine supporting frame holes have been drilled trough to make thin and perfectly it to fit behind the forward
and we will now start adding the forward firewall for the oil cylindrical sausage for new firewall and the main firewall.
hydraulic lines and electrical line going from the oil tank to supercharger to carburettor In this stage the pieces are
installation cables. Lead and the oil cooler on one side and pipes. Once you have a piece almost like wire and will retain
plastic flexible wires are used vice versa on the other side of of Magic Sculpt mixed simply any shape. When both pieces
for most of the lines with the engine. Engine assembly roll it between two sheets of are bent and shaped to fit we
thicker plastic wires used is now ready to be fitted to the thicker styrene to get perfectly will leave them aside for a few
from and to the oil tank and aircraft and since we have a cylindrical rod, this is done more hours until completely
oil cooler while the lead wires perfectly tight fit of the engine some two hours after we mix solid. Pipes are then brush
have been used for rigid lines supporting frame and the the clay to prevent sticking it painted with Mr. Metal Color
and hydraulic pipes. Fine firewall, no glue will be used. on everything and for easier 218 Aluminium, polished like
pointed brush is used to paint [fig289] sculpting. When rolled to we did it earlier and the last
ring clamps on most of the [fig290] proper diameter, like the kit touch is optional, satin varnish
cables and lines with metallic, [fig291] pieces, and almost completely and some shading with Tamiya

Magic Sculpt is used to
make thin and perfectly
cylindrical sausage for
new supercharger to
carburettor pipes.
Fine pointed brush is used to paint ring

clamps on most of the cables and lines with
metallic, white and black paint.
When Magic Sculpt sausage is almost completely cured we will then gently shape it to fit behind the forward firewall and the main firewall area.

Chapter III
X-1 Black. Black vinyl strips Cowl flaps are now carefully
are now used to make flexible mounted from the top together
rubber joints followed by a with cowl holding frames and
slightly narrower strip of self our Razorback is ready to be
adhesive aluminium foil which placed on diorama which we
represents metal ring clamps are going to build later.
or fasteners. At the end, Trumpeter has
Navigation lights are one offered a decent kit with a few
of final touches on the model flaws here and there. Those
and to make them look good often discussed rivets proved
we are going to drill a small to be a good and nice looking
hole through the back side of detail after all and as long as
A small hole is drilled half way through A drop of red and blue paint is now the clear part. Hole is drilled they are not accentuated too
the back side of the navigation light applied to the inside of the hole, one at an angle so it is pointed to much. Few coats of surface
clear part. light red and the other blue. Final
result is coloured bulb beneath the light the mid section of the outer filler-primer also helped here
transparent cover. light arch. A drop of red and by making them less deep
blue paint is now applied to and pronounced. Some minor
the inside of the hole, one light fit issues around lower side
red and the other blue. Final wing root section and miss
Pipes are brush painted with Mr. Metal Color 218 Aluminium, polished result is coloured bulb beneath configuration of the firewall
and shaded with Tamiya X-1 Black. Black vinyl strips are used to
make flexible rubber joints followed by a slightly narrower strip of self the light transparent cover. area can be sorted out with
adhesive aluminium foil to recreate metal ring clamps.

Small hydraulic tanks are made with Unimat lathe and fitted to the supper firewall container. Wires and hydraulic lines are made from lead and copper wire.
Cowl flaps are now carefully

mounted from the top together
with cowl holding frames.

very little effort and some miss here, poor register, they are completely unusable, decide to go with aftermarket
scratchbuilding. The decals questionable colours and small luckily there are plenty decal or paint mask set.
are something that is a total elements so poorly printed that alternatives here whether you

Chapter III
JU-87D STUKA

Chapter III
JU-87D
STUKA
Kit summary
Revell re-box of Hasegawas kit is supposed to cover 3 Ju87 variants: D1,
D3 and D5 but unfortunately this is not exactly the case. Just to clarify things,
to build Ju87-D1 variant you need a partial shroud of the exhaust that is just
not there on the model although someone was aware of it judging by the box
art. One of the main differences between D1 and D3 variants was this partial
shroud that was cut back on D3 variant for installation of flame concealing
exhaust pies and that is what you get in the box, so there is no out of the box
D1. To build early variant of Ju87-D3 you need to sand down metal non-slip
skids on the wing roots as early D3 had flat rubber surfaces instead. Not so
much of the hard work but the thing is that it cannot be build straight out of
the box that is, without minor interventions. All in all, a large box full of very
fine details, a bit shallow panel lines and maybe too thick transparencies
to my taste, enough ordnance, two external fuel tanks and two little fellows,
pilot and a gunner together with the large decal sheet, everything together
suggesting many hours of fun.
126 BUILDING THE AIRCRAFT - JU-87D STUKA


Chapter III
BUILDING THE AIRCRAFT - JU-87D STUKA
BEFORE WE START
Eduard - Biged photo etched set 3254
Aires - Ju87 D/G cockpit set 2068
QuickBoost - Ju87D propeller QB-32022
MDC - SC1000 Bomb CV32046
Maketar Paint Masks - Junkers Ju87D Desert Doras
MM32002

Cyanoacrylate glue
Tamiya cement
Drilling pin vise
BluTack
Mr. Surfacer 500 and/or Mr. Surfacer 1000
Modellers Saw Kit cockpit looks decent with addition of Eduards PE parts and some wires but still lacks some major
details. Most of the photo-etched parts have been fitted in using Formula 560 white glue applied with
a toothpick rather than CA glue that tends to go all around and even to ruin the work. White glue
Paints used: leaves you more freedom in positioning the parts, its much cleaner to work with and can be removed
Revell enamel: with water.
84 Leather Brown
15 Yellow THE BUILD halves. Now, when i already have
05 White The build starts with careful study of a drill chuck in my hands why not
09 Anthracite Gray
the instruction as blindly following it take care of those holes in the wings
330 Fire red
may get you into troubles just a few for installation of the wing racks, as
Model Master enamel: steps later. The cockpit is first and in those are easily forgotten once you
2088 Sand Yellow RLM79 this build the biggest task due to its start putting the wing halves together
1701E Military Brown Flat FS30117 complexity and all the photo-etched and your bird starts to look right.
parts that needs to be fitted in. For Cockpit itself has very nice details
Tamiya acrylic: a worm up, i will drill the holes in the and with a bit of scratchbuilding,
XF-23 Light Blue fuselage for installation of the armour mainly wiring and other installations,
XF-22 RLM Grey
plates for just in case that i decide to it will be a real beauty. Interior
XF-16 Flat Aluminum
X-19 Smoke
incorporate them later, if not, those assembly is pretty much straight
are just four tiny holes that needs to forward with a few exceptions: its not
Oil paints: be filled with putty and sanded in a a good idea to assemble the zwilling
Raw Umber minute but for sure easier than trying MG81Z twin machine guns and glue
Burnt Sienna to drill the holes when the cockpit is it to its holder at this stage as it can
assembled and glued to the fuselage be easily broken during further work
Aires cockpit set really is a great addition to the model, just looking at all First coat of Tamiya XF-63 German Grey applied and the cockpit looks
those detailed pars, makes you inpatient to start working on it. busy already.

Fine pointed brush is used for painting small details. Initial dusting of the cockpit floor with pastel powder.
on the cockpit. Its a good idea fun starts... When it comes to much that i am using it more 74 Gunship Grey, either way
to paint the section behind the the glue for photo-etched part and more on some other the results will be almost the
pilot seat - the radio section, there is no too many options, parts too. With the most of the same once the clear matt is
separately and attach it to the we can use cyanoacrylate or photo-etched parts glued on, on. Once the paint is dry,
cockpit floor just before closing the better option, water soluble various gauges of lead wire, remaining pre-painted photo-
the fuselage thus making sure white glue. Great thing about copper wire, stretched sprue etched parts can be glued on
that everything is painted and white glue is that it gives you and plastic coated wires from and everything is ready for a
taken care of properly, but more than enough time to some old or broken electronic bit of weathering just to make
before we get to the painting position part, it will not run device comes into play now it look used. For the most of
part, a lot of metal parts needs over and ruin anything, has for different types of cockpit weathering part i am using
to be fitted in first. Its time for no ugly smell and if anything installations and wiring, the dry pastel powder which gives
opening the Eduards BigED goes wrong, just wash it part that requires more time great results and in case that i
photo-etched set that contains out with warm water and a than photo-etched parts but overdo, very possible scenario,
more than enough parts to turn cotton swab. I prefer to use the result is worth it. Now it can always be washed off
the model into a master piece Formula 560 - the worlds that everything is in its place, with water and redone.
with four photo-etched frets best canopy glue as its very its time for airbrushing the With the cockpit being
just for interior, three containing strong, versatile and for sure, interior in RLM66 black-grey almost done and ready to
the parts for the cockpit and the best canopy glue i have and for this we can use Tamiya be fitted into the fuselage,
one fret with the seatbelts, the ever used, in fact i like it so XF-63 German Grey or Revell i was now determined to
Cockpit floor with the radio section temporary fixed

on. Subtle shading, dust and dirt is achieved by using
dry pastel powder. Try to do it with subtle and gentle
movements of the brush almost like wiping of the dust
from a delicate piece of art.

Chapter III
Side walls received the same treatment with pastel powder. For chipped paint i am Eduards PE instrument panel dressed up with some control sticks made from
using Tamiya XF16 Flat Aluminum and a fine pointed brush followed by another round stretched sprue together with Aires gun sight.
of dusting with dry pastel just to blend everything.
do another one, Aires resin to fix resin parts to where light coats. Cockpit now looks chipping with Tamiya XF-16
cockpit set and to compare they belong making sure to even more busy and detailed Flat Aluminum. Paint is slightly
the two. The moment after leave the radio section to be and one simply cannot resist thinned and applied randomly
opening Aires box i had a fitted in at the end. Cockpit to start brush painting all those with small fine pointed brush
feeling i wont regret doing sidewalls have been glued to crisp details. Fine pointed mainly along the edges and
this just by looking at all those the fuselage before painting for brush is now used to paint all raised details but still mostly at
beautifully casted resin parts. easier handling and to avoid the small elements, cables, lower sections of the cockpit
The scalpel was already in my possible mess and damage by wires, junction boxes, controls walls. Cockpit floor is treated a
hands and minutes later all gluing it later. All of the cockpit and everything else that bit heavier around the places
the parts were cleaned free elements are now airbrushed is there. where the pilot and gunners
of casting flesh. This time, we with RLM66 that is, Tamiya With all the details now feet would be to simulate more
will use cyanoacrylate glue XF-63 German Grey in two painted we will add some paint pronounced wear and tear.
Colourful and busy interior is almost

done. Majority of details has been
painted with fine pointed brush, a lot
of time spent here but the result is
worth it.

Result of combining Eduards
PE parts with Aires cockpit set
is maybe the most visible here,
shame as a lot of it will be
invisible once the two fuselage
halves are glued together.
Its never too much wires and

installations, boxes, dials... note
the beautifully detailed Aires seat
with Eduards photo etched seat
belts.
Photo etched parts for radiators took Everything looks ok so far but the
almost the same amount of time as the problem now is, if we turn the model on
cockpit. its belly we can damage the radiators
and all the hard work. Note the jig made
from 3mm styrene sheet to support the
model and lift it up.
before the dry pastels as that powder out of dry pastel sticks
way chipped areas will be we are going to use a scalper
under the dust and dirt and or a piece of medium coarse
will look more realistic then sanding paper. If using scalpel,
if we did it after dry pastels. simply scrape the pastel stick
As i am going for the desert with light pressure strokes of
camouflage and having in the scalpel and collect the
mind that this particular aircraft powder on a piece of paper or
was stationed in the desert, we in a plastic cup. Easier option
are going to do a bit heavier is to rub the pastel stick on a
A must have for any serious modeller, grey scale pastels as well as all the other dusting with dry pastels. piece of sanding paper and
coloured, mainly earthy, sandy and yellowish. A few different brushes kept just for
pastel jobs.
We will start with the darker get the powder. Light grey
earthy colours and going to pastel powder is brushed on
More weathering, fading and are applied easily and just as lighter tones and sand colours the cockpit floor areas first
shading is now done with dry easily removed if needed, also to almost white at the end. followed with sandy and earthy
pastels as opposed to airbrush you can find them in a great Good idea is to have dry brown shades. Use large flat
technique used in previous range of colours. Important pastel grey scale set as those and soft brush to apply the
builds. Dry pastels are very thing if you intend to do paint are the most used for shading powder with soft brush strokes
interesting to work with, they chipping is that you do it and fading. To make the as if you are brushing the dust

Chapter III
Eduards photo etched

parts may be tiny but
they greatly improve
the level of detail.
off. Fuselage and the wings surgery to separate the rudder rudder pivot cylinder and to
are the next stage of our build, and then turn it a bit to the look more realistic. Gap at the
photo-etched radiators are right it will look better. I just top of vertical stabilizer is filled
now test fitted in as it is much love the look of the rudder with a piece of styrene strip
easier to fit them now then slightly turned to the side, and sanded flat. Cylindrical
with the fuselage and wings really adds more life to the pivot edge of the rudder is
assembled. With everything aircraft. Cutting the rudder off made from a piece of sprue
double checked, the two is not too much of a trouble, glued to the rudder and the
halves of the fuselage are sharp pointed modellers knife sanded off to fit the vertical
first dry fitted a couple of time does the trick. Now, filing the stabilizer. Fuselage halves are
to make sure the cockpit fits seams, restoring the rounded now glued together and seams
Back to the rudder or actually filling the
nicely and everything is as it pivot edge of the rudder and sanded smooth few hours later gap on top of it and thinning the edges
should be, in the right spot. the thing is ready to be fitted when the glue is fully dry. where the rounded rudder edge needs to
be fitted later.
As with previous builds, i back on the tail but this time Joining the wings to the
do not like the look of the tail turned a bit to the right side to fuselage proved to more
section, it looks a bit boring make it look more interesting. difficult thing that anticipated. model and another scale, a
and the rudder perfectly lined Edges of vertical stabilizer are Right hand side wing was the whole day of work just to sort
up with the vertical stabilizer, thinned with file and sanding most problematic and almost it out. With the wings and
maybe if we do a minor paper to accommodate new as if it was taken from another landing gear in place we can
Best way to separate the rudder from the fuselage is by using sharp pointed blade If they had Stukas in World War One, it would look something like this.
instead of scriber as it will remove some plastic from it and we want to avoid that.
Several light pressured passes with the blade will do the trick.

Olfa compass cutter is a must have tool for any modeller.
All kinds of circular shapes are easily cut from styrene
sheet, in this case mass balance parts for elevators.
Elevator and its mass balance lowered down a bit. Horizontal stabilizers and the rudder ready to be fitted The tails section looks more dynamic and interesting
Separating the mass balance part is easiest with sharp on the model. then if it was left the way it was.
pointed blade.
move on to the tail section be tricky but a few very light is necessary as each flap fragile but also sanding of the
again. Dry fitting of the rudder moves with the scriber and consists of 3 main parts and lower wing sections would be
showed no problems but then pointed scalpel blade bunch of smaller ones. Flap difficult with flaps on. On the
before fitting it permanently will do the trick. Dry fitting of controlling rods have been cut other hand, painting itself will
we will separate elevators all pieces is a must here if we off and pieces of hypodermic be much easier of we have the
from horizontal stabilizer and are going to do everything needle used instead to make flaps on the model at the same
drop them down a bit. Same properly. it more down to scale. When time. I have decided to glue
procedure as with the rudder, Lowering the landing flaps installing the flaps we have them on now and to solve any
sharp pointed blade is used to is our next task. Stuka had two options, two do it now and problems later.
separate them and a piece of very distinctive flaps and before the painting or to do We will now make a new
styrene rod to make cylindrical they really look much more it at the end when painting is wing leading edge light, first
pivot edge. Some care must interesting when displayed in done. If we do it now, we must a small hole is drilled trough
be taken when cutting of the down position. Here again, be careful later when handling the centre of a piece of sprue.
mass balance part as it can constant dry fitting of the parts the model as the flaps are very Much larger drill bit is then
Flaps control rod just doesnt look up the scale so And looks good once fitted to the wing. Flaps down and rudder tilted to the side really add to
the new one has to be made from 0.6mm hypodermic dynamic look and feel.
needle.

Chapter III


Chapter III
Making of a new landing light starts with drilling a Continue with the drill bit that is almost as the sprue A piece of self adhesive aluminium foil is used to make
piece of sprue with 0.8mm drill. piece in diameter and just make a few twists, enough the light look more real and a cotton swab to press it
to make a shallow coned hole. into the hole and polish it at the same time.
used to widen the hole so cut off and inserted into the have a perfect and very thin position, which would be a true
that we get doomed hole as hole in the light base, Testors clear cover for the light which shame with all the beautiful
deep as it is wide. Now, a Model Master 1790 Chrome is now going to be more cockpit details, it simply cannot
small piece of self adhesive Silver is then used to paint visible and realistic. We are fit on the middle, fixed canopy
aluminium foil is placed on the bulb. now going to mask the cockpit part. As the part is too small
top of the doomed hole and Once the light has and prepare the model for to fit the fixed canopy section
burnished in with cotton swab. been installed, a piece of painting. While masking the we have two options here, we
Small drill bit is used to drill a transparent self adhesive tape canopy i have noticed some can make a silicone rubber
hole through the centre again is placed over the opening and problems that we will have to mould of the original part then
to accommodate the bulb Eduards photo etched light sort out before we start mixing make a plaster copy and then
which is made from a piece of frame is glued over the tape. paints and airbrushing the vacuform a new part over that
stretched sprue exposed to a The tape is then cut around canopy and the model. For plaster cat and the second, we
candle flame for a second just the frame with sharp pointed some reason, Hesegawa has can try to adjust the original
enough to melt blade and messed up the sliding canopy part which would be very
the tip and get removed. section and while its all ok if tricky thing to do and avoid
a small bulb like Now we you plan to place it in a closed tiny cracks that will ruin the
form. Stretched
sprue tip is then Take a piece of stretched sprue, bring it near the candle light just for a second and itll make a perfect bulb
cap. Cut it off so that you have something like 3mm of the sprue to hold it, using fine pointed brush touch it
with the Tamiya XF16 Flat Aluminum, pierce the aluminium foil and insert the stretched sprue with the bulb
cap on it into the hole.
Finished landing lights now looks great. For

protective glass we are using transparent self
adhesive tape.

Italian sand
sprayed on.
BluTac sausages
arranged on the model.
whole job. In I have opted for start looking for a replacement in Africa as they were often and hours of research. After
the second choice here. First part somewhere. forced to over-paint standard collecting data from more than
cleaning the part of the sprue Detailed research on a camouflage with desert colours 30 books written about air war
and then the tricky job begins. subject started a few weeks to avoid being spotted by in Africa, Italian squadrons in
Point is to slowly heat the part before i even opened the allied bombers while being on Africa and of course, about
above the electric stove with model box and now i just the ground. When modelling Ju87 in Africa, i came to
the heat protecting gloves to remembered one particular a WWII subject with unusual conclusion that this particular
save our fingers for the later scheme that caught my and not standardised paint Stuka wore Italian paints:
part. So, put on the gloves and attention, desert Ju87 scheme, its a bit difficult Giallo Mimetico - Sand and
start by holding the part some suspected to wear Italian to get the colours just right Marrone Mimetico - Brown,
10cm above the heated stove paints, a combination of especially with limited colour knowing that, some more
for 4 or 5 seconds and the Giallo Mimetico - Sand and photo references available and research and comparing of the
very gently push the side walls Marrone Mimetico - Brown, a in many cases we must rely paints and i can start mixing
of the part away from each very unusual and distinctive on colour profiles and hours my own shades.
other but again, very gently camouflage that simply had
to avoid the damage. Repeat to be used in this build but
the process a few more time also, i want to avoid boring
while constantly checking if standard Ju87D scheme and
the part is nicely fitting the paint it in unusual and less
fixed canopy part. The whole used desert colours. There
point is to do it very slowly were just a few Ju87 Doras
and gently while making sure wearing the desert colours and
you dont melt the part, its my choice is a D-3 variant with
always better to heat it more the markings S7+KS on the
times than to try to heat it once fuselage. This particular aircraft
and to ruin the part. Process belonged to 8. /StG 3 in Derna,
can take up to 10-20 minutes Libya and was shot down on
warming and pushing the walls November the 1st 1942 by an
of the part and eventually it allied fighter, both the pilot and
will fit perfectly. Just to make gunner captured wounded. It
An hour later and the masking job is done. Remember, if you want to reuse BluTack,
things clear, make sure you do was not unusual for Luftwaffe use the Tamiya tape. Avoid using Maskol, although, there are situation when you just
it slowly and gently otherwise aircraft to wear Italian paints have to use it, like on the right hand side stabilizer.

Chapter III
After the brown is sprayed over and masks removed,

Stuka now looks like chocolate and vanilla cake. Too
strong contrast will be sorted out with fading and
shading.
My closest match for Giallo 084 - Leather Brown which and get the effect that is scheme pattern using BluTack
Mimetico - Sand is Model will be properly faded and satisfactory. Upper side is first is great for both, sharp and
Master Sand Yellow RLM79 lightened later on the model. to be painted in this case as soft transitions between
mixed with a few drops of With 60 to 40 paint to thinner its easier to mask the upper colours and the best thing is,
white and Revell 015 - yellow. ratio i have a very thin mixture side rather than the lower with you can reuse BluTack over
Closest match to Marrone that will allow me to build up all those radiators, lowered and over for years even if its
Mimetico - Brown is Revell the paint coats very slowly flaps, bomb racks etc, so heavily painted you can just
the first comes Italian sand. play with it with your hands
Since i dont like pre-shading and it will turn blue again.
or anything that goes under First steps is to make long
the paint, this first round and slim sausages using a
is very simple. Overnight ruler or your fingers and then
drying time is plenty and we laying those on the model in
can start thinking about the a pattern you want to achieve.
second colour and the best The next step is masking the
way to mask the pattern. parts we dont want to paint
There is variety of ways to with brown colour with either
mask irregular pattern on Tamiya masking tape or with
the model, using cut-out Maskol but be careful, Tamiya
paper masks, self adhesive tape will easily come of the
vinyl masks or my favourite, BluTack and youll be able to
BluTack sausages and Tamiya reuse it and in case that you
Initial shading solved the contrast problem, now thats better. masking tape. Masking a want to use Maskol or any

other masking solution, you meet the brown making it a bit
can say goodbye to BluTack darker. With yellow areas now
as its impossible to separate properly faded but still looking
those two but in same case we a bit strange and uniform, its
simply do not have the choice. time to darken the panel lines
With the brown paint on using Model Master Sand
and a few hours later the Yellow RLM79 that will look
model looks a bit like vanilla perfect on faded Italian sand
and chocolate cake with that paint. A bit different procedure
strong contrast which we need goes for the brown areas
to soften down radically by where i want to make panels
using light shades of brown more visible by spraying thin
and sand colour. Shading coats of light brown on the
and blending part is all about central parts of the panels and With the markings sprayed on we can proceed with some more shading and fading but
also adding the fuel streaks and panel lines.
mixing original colours with thus leaving the darker areas
white, yellow, light brown on the panel lines, another eye
and then spraying a very thin catching and very effective
mixture of it over the model, technique. After the brown
about 80 to 20 thinner to paint areas are done, i will get back
ratio is used for shading and to the yellow areas and touch
fading with enamel paints. it up a bit more where the light
I started with already mixed brown paint has over sprayed
Italian sand adding a few the yellow and, with both
drops of white and a drop of colours now faded and shaded
yellow, keeping in mind that i can amend it a bit more here
this aircraft was in the desert and here until i am satisfied
and the sun, heat, sand and with the results.
dust did their part to make Another thing that i did in
it look faded, dusty and with this stage is spraying the fuel
desaturated colours. Start stains and streaks from the Walking surface received some paint chipping again by using Tamiya XF16 Flat
Aluminum and a lead pencil. Stencils are on as well and the brown wash has been
working from the inside of the main fuel filler points with very applied to subtly enhance the lines.
yellow areas making it lighter thin darkish brown shades but
to the outside where they be careful not to overdo. Now,
Exhaust pipes and front canopy temporarily fixed into place. Note that the radio
section behind the pilots seat is missing primarily for easier masking of the interior.
Fine wet sanding pads

have been used to wear
of fuselage markings.

Chapter III


Chapter III
A piece of styrene strip is wrapped around the bomb as this detail is missing Pieces of styrene rod as well as some photo etched parts are now used to
on the kit part. create more details.
The bomb is now painted with Alclad II Dark Aluminium ALC-103 as a base Medium coarse sanding pads are used to sand off some of the paint and to
for paint chipping. reveal metal beneath.
Maketar Paint Masks Desert will be sprayed using masks is dry and cured for about 24 lines and recreating some
Doras mask set is used for prior to applying the first gloss hours, some very fine sanding dirt and oil leaks and streaks.
the markings. From the kit coat for the stencils and panel pads and water are used to Gloss coat is on and the
decal sheet, we can use just line wash. After the markings fade sprayed markings and stencils as well, followed by
a few stencils, everything else are sprayed on and the paint blend it with the rest of the the sandy-brown wash and the
paint job, thing that is matt coat at the end. Its time
hard to achieve with to unmask the cockpit and
decals. Part of the job start assembling small parts,
that consists of masking canopy, belly SC1000 bomb,
entire upper surface radio antenna and machine
is always a bit tricky guns.
and the least thing we We are now going to add
want now is to ruin the some details to the SC1000
paint job that has been bomb by using styrene strips
done so some extra and sheet. First, a piece
care is needed to mask of styrene strip is wrapped
it all properly and with around the bomb as this detail
accuracy. Spraying is missing on the kit part. After
the lower surfaces measuring the exact length of
is a routine followed the styrene piece, we will glue
with spraying of the one end in place and wait until
markings and then the glue is fully cured before
darkening of the panel wrapping the strip around the
MDC SC1000 bomb is a beauty for itself, very easy to assemble and it simply must look good.

This time the chipping has been done with a
lead pencil only.
Kit machine guns with Eduards photo

etched barrel and the gun sight.
bomb completely. This will

ensure that the styrene piece
does not move when we bent
it. Before applying the glue to
the rest of the strip section, we
will secure it in place with a
piece of masking tape. Pieces
of styrene rod are now used
to create other details that will
make an average piece of the
kit into a detailed model for
itself. Bomb is now painted
with Alclad II Dark Aluminium
ALC-103 as a base for paint
chipping. Hellblau, the same
paint we used for lower I will also assemble and paint pencil randomly rubbed here over the table by pressing it
sections of the Stuka is now a resin casted SC1000 Bomb and there for highly effective with steel ruler to get perfectly
airbrushed on the bomb and from MDC, very well detailed finish. cylindrical form. I have decided
set aside to fully dry. Medium and very fast to assemble. Zwilling MG81Z gun barrels to go with QuickBoost resin
coarse sanding pads are used This time, the bomb is painted are made from Eduards photo propeller blades but as they
to sand off some of the paint in Sand Yellow and paint etched parts wrapped around are just slightly different from
and to reveal metal beneath. chipping is done with soft lead hypodermic needle and rolled the kit parts, no one would

Chapter III
Stuka had some canopy frames mounted from the Combination of Eduards PE parts and Aires resin parts Kit propeller blade on the left and QuickBoost blades
inside and some from the outside and it needs to be is visible here too. on the right hand side, its not so much of a difference
represented correctly. Final touch ups on this canopy but its noticeable.
part by adding frame rivets with Maketar rivet masks.
even notice the difference the propeller blade root area. being done, we will do some parts is essential as we dont
whichever ones you decide Maketar Paint Masks used more touch ups with the brush want anything to out of the
to go with. Spinner is sprayed for painting the rivets on the and dry pastels powder. Some picture but again, be careful
with II Dark Aluminium ALC- canopy makes the job easier paint chipping is now done not to overdo, use different
103 first and then all the other and produces excellent finish. on the wing brush sizes
colours are applied, masking For attaching canopy parts, root where the and do it in
of spinner rings is done with we will using Formula 560 crew would passes rather
thin masking strips. Fine glue, its simply the best. normally than saturating
sanding pads are used to wear Adding the details is pretty a walk. Subtle one area with
of some of the black paint from straight forward task and that blending of all the powder
All canopy parts ready to be placed where they belong.
Spinner is sprayed with II

Dark Aluminium ALC-103 first
and then all the other colours
are applied, masking of
spinner rings is done with thin
masking strips. Fine sanding
pads are used to wear of
some of the black paint from
the propeller blade root area.

With the huge bomb mounted on its belly, Stuka looks
mean now. Wheels are also fitted in and dusted with dry
pastels to simulate the desert ground dirt.
Another view of the cockpit, radio antenna

before moving to another. sliding canopy section but and the guns. Pacer Formula 560 - Canopy
Looking at some photos of for sure nothing that will ruin Glue is used to attach canopy parts.
the real thing will help more the joy of building it. Eduard
than anything else in getting BigED PE set is excellent and
the feel for the weathering always welcomed addition,
and blending, a bit of and even with a bit high
patience and subtlety will for price its still a great value
sure, provide very rewarding for money having in mind the
final result. quality and the quantity of
At the end, another the parts that you get. Aires
excellent model from resin cockpit set speaks for
Hasegawa in Revell box itself, high quality resin, crisp
which makes it even better and very detailed casting
when you consider the price. does the trick every time.
The model has its flaws with Combined with Eduard BigED
the right side wing and the PE set opens the door to
endless possibilities for detailing

the cockpit. QuickBoost - Ju87D
propeller is more accurately
represented than the kit propeller
blade but nothing too serious that
we could not live with it. MDC -
SC1000 Bomb is really beautiful
and detailed but as with the
propeller blade, bomb provided in
the kit can be a bit detailed up to
a very satisfactory level.
Sliding canopy sections sits funny on the top

of the fixed middle canopy part, something
Hasegawa did before on a couple of other
models and something that we need to take
care of.

Chapter III


Chapter IV
MAKING A DIORAMA
MAKING A
DIORAMA
FIELD EQUIPMENT AND ORDNANCE
Building and painting field equipment slightly differs from building and
painting aircraft models. Ground equipment is usually much more stained,
dusty and muddy. In this case, its more of armour modelling than really
anything related to aircraft and in terms of techniques used, its a matter
of making everything more worn out and neglected with no air stream
stains, of course.
148 BUILDING THE AIRCRAFT - MAKING A DIORAMA


Chapter IV
MAKING A DIORAMA
BEFORE WE START
Signifer - SN32001 Forked lift USAF WWII
Signifer - SN32004 Starter cart USAF WWII
Hornet - HH4 Bare Heads With WWII Haircuts
Pegaso Models - PM-PT026 SS Tank Crewman, 1944
Verlinden - 1108 Oil Barrels
Verlinden - 2706 USAAF WWII Refuelling Unit
Verlinden - 1856 M5 Halftrack Stowage Set
MiniArt - 35101 U.S. Motorcycle Repair Crew

Cyanoacrylate glue
Tamiya cement
Drilling pin vise
BluTack
Sanding sticks and files Parts layout of Signifers SN32004 Starter cart USAF WWII kit. Crisply casted with plenty of detail and
Styrene sheet in various size and thickness simple to assemble, Very effective for any maintenance diorama.
Magic Sculpt
Unimat Lathe
Paints used:
Artist oils:
Burnt Umber
Black
White
Yellow
LifeColor acrylic paints:

LifeColor LC27 Matt Clear
UA207 Schwarzgrau
UA205 Rotbraun
LC06 Matt Red
LC03 Matt Yellow
UA511 Hellgrun
UA208 Anthrazitgrau
UA046 Neutral Grey
UA028 Grey
LC01 Matt White
UA524 US Neutral Grey
UA605 Dunkelgrau
UA095 Sky

X-1 Gloss Black
XF-2 Flat White Starter cart painted in green mix and fixed to aluminium strip by BluTac for easier holding and painting.
XF-3 Flat Yellow
XF-7 Flat Red First element of our ground LifeColor UA208 Anthrazitgrau,
XF-8 Flat Blue equipment will be Signifer - SN32004 making sure we do not overdo. Try to
XF-53 Neutral Grey Starter cart USAF WWII, resin model keep shapes irregular and random,
XF-58 Olive green
with only a couple of elements. try to source some photographs
XF-60 Dark Yellow
XF-62 Olive Drab
Two thin coats of light green are from the internet of similar ground
XF-63 German Grey airbrushed on the main cart part, equipment and look for areas that
XF-65 Field Grey same mixture as we were using for have been beaten the most. Most
our Spitfire interior made by mixing heavily scratched areas are those
Humbrol acrylic paints: LifeColor LC03 Matt Yellow and most exposed or most touched/
Matt clear cote - aerosol LifeColor UA511 Hellgrun in 2 to 5 stepped on. Small details like
ratio. Scratches have been applied voltage gauges, various switches
heavily with fine pointed brush and and buttons have been painted in

Fine pointed brush is used for painting
on scratches and peeled paint.
few different colours, mostly of any brush strokes, we will and rusty look. Lead wire have some drybrushing, again we
as seen on some reference repeat this process one more been used for power lines, will use Gunze Sangyo Mr
photos as those of this time to enhance heavy usage painted in different colours, Metal 218 Aluminium paint.
particular cart are a bit difficult look. Exhaust drum and pipe again more by hunch as I just Lightly dip flat brush into the
to find. Next step is application system has been hand painted could not find a reference for paint and make sure to give it
of diluted Burnt Umber artist in dark brown then treated with those. Leave the part aside a good clean with the paper
oils and we then treat it with diluted Burnt Umber and then to allow oil paints to dry towel before using it on the
clean dry brush until the heavily saturated with rust completely, for some 24 hours. model. Start by gently brushing
surface is smooth and free dry pigments to achieve burnt Next and final step would be all sharp edges and raised
Every single detail counts. By painting gauges, buttons and placards we are breathing Burnt Umber artists oil paint has been heavily applied in order to make our cart look
in life into our model. heavily used, stained and warn out.

Chapter IV
MAKING A DIORAMA
Lead wire has been details to give it nice highlight

cut and used as and more three dimensional
cables, different
colours are a guess look. Oil paint and pigments
in this case due to were used on wheels as well,
lack of reference.
for this one its best to choose
dark brown pigments but this
will depend, of course, on the
type and colour of the surface
of our diorama. For a desert
diorama we would use sand
pigments rather than dark
brown mud, and so on.
Next, we are going to
add more elements to our
diorama setup to make it
more alive and realistic.
Here again, take your time to
study WWII photos of aircraft
undergoing maintenance to
best understand the setup and
everything that your diorama
Dry pigments applied should have. In this case with
to entire model by
clean brush simulate my diorama, it was not done
dust and dried oil by specific photo or situation,
stains. Wheels would
be treated with earth its rather made up setup
like colour pigments. while different scene elements
come from various photos,
mainly from French airfields.
Most of those scenes had
various wooden crates with
spare parts and so we are
going to add a couple. Styrene
sheets 0.4mm have been cut
to approximate measure for
each side of the crate. Each
piece has then been sanded
with coarse sand paper to
achieve natural wood texture
and grain, here we would like
to draw sand paper in only
one direction, along the longer
axis. Now, to make it to look
Drybrushing with
Gunze Sangyo Mr like it was assembled out of
Metal 218 Aluminium a couple of wooden slats, we
paint will further
enhance details.
will measure equal spacing
Lead wire is used for along shorter axis and draw
power supply cable lines with Tamiya scriber,
and placed hanging
over the bar. to represent recessed lines
between wooden planks. We
can do the same procedure
for our makeshift work bench
and just add connecting
planks made out of styrene
beams, 3mmx0.4mm. Yellow
paint will be sprayed on all
wooden elements and later
washed with Burnt Umber oil
paint. Oil and dirt stains on the
workbench can be done by
dripping a few drops of gloss

Exhaust system has been painted brown, washed in oils and saturated with rust dry pigments.
black mixed with dark brown photos and dimensions of need to source for the trailer purchase resin wheels set for
paint. Cargo trailer has been G-518 Ben Hur cargo trailer are the wheels and those can the same kit, it cheaper.
scratch build out of styrene can be found on the internet. be taken from 1:32 Tamiya US Painting airfield ordnance is
sheets 0.3mm thick. Reference The only thing that we would 2 Cargo Truck kit or you can pretty much straight forward,
Wooden crate and makeshift workbench

placed on top of Verlinden oil barrels, a
simple test of the layout.

Chapter IV
MAKING A DIORAMA
Unimat lathe is an amazing and easy to use tool for making various diorama elements, in this case a barrel has been turned in just three minutes.
Fire extinguisher is another thing you will always find on any aircraft 4.5 inch rocket is something rarely available as aftermarket parts, easy and simple to
maintenance site. turn it on Unimat lathe. For turning various pieces you can use modellers wax, resin
sticks, aluminium or brass rod, with amazing results.

Another test for diorama layout. Frequent layout tests can help us see
if something would need to be added or taken away.
first of all, a couple of we can play with airbrush

light coats of our green shading, first is always light
mix, LifeColor LC03 Matt shading with much diluted
Yellow and LifeColor yellow paint followed by dark
UA511 Hellgrun in 2 to 5 shades of black. Shading
ratio. Scratches are done process has been described
with sharp pointed brush in detail already in previous
and LifeColor UA208 chapters. Again, Burnt Umber
Anthrazitgrau. At this point, artist oil paint has been used
Bomb attachment rings have been made Finished bomb rings ready to be glued to
from lead wire wrapped around brass the bomb.
tube and then cut with sharp blade.
Eduard PE bomb parts, scratch built bomb

stand and lead wire rings will greatly
improve appearance over kit original part.

Chapter IV
MAKING A DIORAMA


Chapter IV
MAKING A DIORAMA
Custom text cut on vinyl foil will serve as a stencil for spraying markings on our wooden crate.
to finish everything of to get bomb creating impression of for my diorama and so the so Ive decided to go with
a nice looking olive drab peeled paint. figures had to match that one ground crew member
colour. Bombs have been With our ground equipment peaceful moment I was trying comfortably sitting on an
further treated with mesh cloth sorted it is time to take care of to achieve. Initial plan was ammo crate while cleaning
dipped in Anthrazitgrau and the ground crew. I was trying to have two figures standing a small engine part. Heres
then randomly blotched on the to find a suitable atmosphere and talking but it felt too busy where it gets tricky as we are
Wooden crate containing aircraft

spare parts is now ready for oil
wash.
I thought it would be interesting

to have a cargo trailer somewhere
on my diorama especially if loaded
with various accessories we would
usually find on maintenance area
of an airfield. The trailer is quite
simple in shape and can be easily
scratch built.

Finished and ready to be
painted, G-518 Ben Hur
trailer was often seen
in Europe after D-day
landing.
Light and dark shading

creates contrast and
excellent base for overall
oil wash.

Chapter IV
MAKING A DIORAMA
Signifer - SN32001 Forked lift, shading and scratches make a simple part look busy Small details and big difference. Attachment rings and fuse took a few moments to
and detail rich. scratch build and the results are very rewarding.
Mesh cloth dipped in Anthrazitgrau and then randomly blotched on the bomb creating Oil spills and stains can be achieved with airbrush. Hold airbrush close to workbench
impression of peeled paint. part and without pressing the trigger, pull it back and quickly release so the needle
spits highly diluted gloss black.
Difference between airbrushed and oil washed barrels. Burnt umber on light green Small parts have been turned on Unimate lathe, rockets, fire extinguishers, spinner
creates fantastic olive drab shades. caps, oil cans cargo trailer oil washed and ready to be loaded.

Scratch built barrel and fire extinguishers next to Verlinden oil can. Painted markings on fire extinguisher add to realism.
Fine sharp pointed

brush has been used
to outline figure
details. All recessed
areas can be
painted with diluted
dark brown paint to
simulate shadows.
Boots and belt have
been painted black.
Injection plastic figure from Dragon feature a lot of nice details. Milling bit is used to
make space for Hornet resin head placement.
After careful sanding of any seams figures received two light coats of XF-49 Khaki as
a base for oils.

Chapter IV
MAKING A DIORAMA


Chapter IV
MAKING A DIORAMA
Overall oil wash with diluted Burnt Umber works Airbrushing skin tone colour paint on figures Final pose for our mechanic.
like a charm creating nice shades and warn out face and then washing it in oil will create
look on our guys clothes. realistic skin appearance. Boots have been
further treated with earth tone dry pigments
while oil wash was still wet.
Hair can be painted black or dark brown with lighter colour drybrush to enhance details. Figure is placed on ammo crate to see if any reposing need to be done before
gluing everything together. You can easily repose a figure slightly by heating it with hair dryer first.

Fine pointed brush has been used to paint eye
brows and eye balls. Ears can be drybrushed
with white to accent highlights.
limited with 1:32 figures, you cannot

simply imagine a pose for your figure
unless you are prepared to do major
re-posing of the figure, which I was
not. So, what I could do is to browse
the internet for every possible figure
or figure set in 1:35 scale as those
are much more common. A German
soldier figure posing as serviceman
on USAF P-47, why not! With proper
colours of his clothes he is just
another poor guy trying to play his
part in the war. I really do not go
to extremes but rather like to make
my work easier when possible, at
the end who is going to notice any
difference?! Hornet resin heads came
For more realism our seating guy got a new, smiling face. It would be a bit unnatural
in handy as original figure heads to have two mechanics facing each other with serious face expressions and just
were lacking details. looking at each other. New head comes from Hornet head collection as well.
Yet another test pose with a few accessories around. Maps and mechanic manuals can be simply painted on any home
printer, treated with oils and folded a few times to appear more real.

Chapter IV
MAKING A DIORAMA


Chapter IV
MAKING A DIORAMA
Main material for diorama ground work is actually sand and dirt collected by the side Diluted wood glues is poured on our plaster rock as well as on area around it, next we
of the road. Also keep handy a couple of sand paper sheets, wood glue and mesh would scatter fine sand and dust on it.
cloth. Bamboo stick is used for levelling sand.
Another view showing our diorama base sprinkled with diluted wood glue. At this point Once were done with groundwork setup we would seal it with sprayed diluted wood
we can use fingers or bamboo stick to level sand and remove excess. glue and leave a couple of hours to set. Wood glue dries clear.
Further airbrush shading can be done with various colours

to touch up anything we are not happy with but also to
create more contrast and add realism.

Autumn yellow grass has been poured on wet wood glue first. Be careful when
applying wood glue as glued grass is hard to remove later on.
GROUNDWORKS a thick layer of wood glue onto

With diorama layout planned plywood sheet and simply
and everything else finished, just spread the sand and dirt
our last step is building dio- over it, let the small pebbles
rama base. After mocking the and larger chunks go in as
layout of all object on a piece well. Start spreading sand in
of paper in roughly 1:1 scale thinner layer and allow each A couple of larger stones showing trough the grass, those can be added before or
we can easily determine the layer to soak in the glue before after we apply the glue and pour the static grass.
size of base for our diorama. spreading another layer. White
Custom made picture frame glue will stay wet for about 30 wet, press down some areas for nice, rich and thick grass
will be perfect in this case just minutes, more than enough of the diorama by your hands we are going to pour the stuff
replace the glass with thin time to finish this step. After to make nice and smooth straight from the bag and a
plywood sheet and we are spreading the sand and dirt on area where most of equipment lot of it. Good thing here us to
ready for the next step. Using the base, we can place larger and our ground crew will be mix a few different static grass
sand, dirt and materials found pebbles and chunks here and placed. Set it aside to dry for a colours like autumn, spring
outside to make a diorama there where we see fit and to couple of hours. or summer with emphasis
base usually makes a mess so avoid getting our diorama too Once the base has set and on summer green. Keep in
I always do this part outside, flat. Ive made a plaster rock dried, we will proceed with mind that there would be no
balcony will do as well. To cast in Woodland Scenics rub- airbrush shading by spraying grass on areas where our
protect diorama base frame ber moulds and placed it into diluted XF55 Deck Tan on ground crew works and walk,
we are going to mask it off with the base corner to make it look some areas to get some pathways would also have no
any sort of tape you have avail- more natural and interesting. contrast and variety of colours. grass.
able, in this case I am using With everything in place the To apply grass, a diluted white I have deliberately placed
wide Tamiya tape. Also keep best way to seal everything glue has been spread on the different grass colours on
handy a couple of sand paper in place is to spray on diluted base in blotches by large flat different areas to demonstrate
sheets, wood glue and mesh wood glue with water and brush. For grass, I am using that it can be easily painted
cloth. To start applying sand spray it on the base using static grass and it comes from with airbrush into any colour.
and dirt collected by the side empty window washer bottle a few brands, Javis, WWS, Set everything aside for a
of the road, we will first spread with sprayer on top. While still Woodland Scenics etc. Now, few hours to dry before using

Chapter IV
MAKING A DIORAMA


Chapter IV
MAKING A DIORAMA
Larger area has been treated with wood glues and to be covered with green summer Various shades of green and yellow have been airbrushed on grass areas. This is t
grass. Try to keep grassy areas irregular and random in shape. Also, note a few show that no matter what colour your grass is, we can always easily retouch it either
different colours of grass being placed on our diorama, some will be airbrushed and by brush or airbrush. Note small piles of rocks, removed from work area and piled up,
retouched later. washed with oils and drybrushed with off white paint. Detail easy to make but greatly
improves realism and overall appearance.
large clean brush to brush those areas with light brown falls onto the base like a rain, This type of diorama base
off excess grass from the and tan colours. We can also otherwise if too close it can will take a few hours of your
base. You can now play with scatter around fine white sand blow off some of the stuff, like time but will add a lot to your
yellow grass and sprinkle a as well, just to give more that fine sand we added. All we scale models appearance.
little bit here and there to give contrast to our ground work. have to do now is to carefully As for photographing your
impression of burnt grass. You Before placing everything on arrange all diorama elements models and diorama, play
can add crushed dried leaves the base, we will apply one onto the base. I dont use with different light setups and
small branches and so on. As final spray with Humbrol Matt any glue to fix models to the try using printed background
a last thing, yes again, I like to clear cote to seal everything base, theres simply no need image, this is effective way of
add highly diluted black artist in place. While spraying from for that. There you go, making showing different backgrounds
oil to areas without grass and the can, keep it at least 30cm a nice looking diorama is not and diorama moods. Happy
after that has dried, drybrush from the base so it basically a big deal of effort or time. modelling!
Basic diorama elements

placed for a test, nothing
will be glued in place as I
am never sure where some
of it will end up on our
layout. Bare ground treated
with oils and drybrushed
with various brown pants.
Some yellow static grass
was scattered over some
areas of green grass. Dried
leaves can be crushed and
scattered around as well.


Chapter IV
MAKING A DIORAMA


Chapter IV
MAKING A DIORAMA


The Modellers Guide: Superdetailing, Painting and Weathering Aircraft of WWII
ADH Publishing, Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Beds. LU6 1QX

Everything you knew about plastic modelling, every model With plastic models being my main focus
you built, all that you have learnt and researched, it needs for years now it is still hard to simply build a
to be done all over again, old knowledge is out, new model out of the box without trying to add
technologies are in. If youve been into modelling for 30 some scratch build parts, just to make the
years or just starting, obvious starting point is the Internet. work more interesting. Over the years, my
And there it is, product of global informational revolution skills have evolved and been refined with
under your fingertips, all the information youll ever need just constant modeling experiments. My models
few clicks away: modelling techniques, tools, which airbrush have been published numerous time in
nozzle you need, what type of cement to use, exact colour various modeling magazines and since I am
shades, the right brands and manufacturers, whats inside not attending any competitions, seeing my
that box, hows the plastic looking, is it accurate enough, models published is the right kind of food
decal and paint options, aftermarket parts. Then for my peculiar modelers ego. Now, i am
countless references, photos, texts, book excerpts, a father of a wonderful boy named Marko,
walkarounds showing all possible details, forums, aged three, who is already showing his
blogs, mailing lists, social network groups, SIGs, interest in scale models by going through the
instant contact with thousands of fellow modellers kit boxes and dry fitting parts as he sees
around the globe, some more or less keen to fit. Soon, I am about to become a father
help you, various experts and hexperts advices, for the second time, this time a baby girl,
endless debates over historical accuracy of some Aleksandra. As for scale modelling, that will
oddball scheme or Spitfire prop shape... wait for some time...
Cover photos by
Aleksandar Pou
For details of other books in our range visit:
www.adhpublishing.com
The Modellers Guide to Superdetailing, Painting and Weathering Aircraft of WWII

ADH Publishing, Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Beds. LU6 1QX
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The Modellers Guide

Superdetailing, Painting and Weathering

P001 - WWII AIRCRAFT BOOK.indd 1 08/10/2014 15:07

To my lovely 3 year old son Marko, gifted model breaker!

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Signifer Company from France for their provisions of resin airfield

Wesco Enterprises US for their provision of really magical Magic Sculpt

The Modellers Guide to Superdetailing, Painting and Weathering Aircraft of WWII 5

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CHAPTER 1: TOOLS AND MATERIALS 14

CHAPTER 3: BUILDING THE AIRCRAFT

n SPITFIRE MK. IXC 28

CHAPTER 4: MAKING A DIORAMA 148

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With kind regards,

The Modellers Guide to Superdetailing, Painting and Weathering Aircraft of WWII 7

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The Modellers Guide to Superdetailing, Painting and Weathering Aircraft of WWII 9

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10 SCALE MODELLING - A LOVE STORY READY TO ASSEMBLE

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12 SCALE MODELLING - A LOVE STORY READY TO ASSEMBLE

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The Modellers Guide to Superdetailing, Painting and Weathering Aircraft of WWII 13

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Basic cutting tools every

14 CHAPTER I - TOOLS AND MATERIALS

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a couple of hours and can be

The Modellers Guide to Superdetailing, Painting and Weathering Aircraft of WWII 15

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Never settle with one type or brand of paint as

16 CHAPTER I - TOOLS AND MATERIALS

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The Modellers Guide to Superdetailing, Painting and Weathering Aircraft of WWII 17

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Convex oil tank side caps

Process and the tools for

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The Modellers Guide to Superdetailing, Painting and Weathering Aircraft of WWII 19

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Convex cap of the tank is nicely done

section of the tank with folding

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A great thing about the dials printed

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apply very small amount of

The Modellers Guide to Superdetailing, Painting and Weathering Aircraft of WWII 23

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Opened access panel

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SPITFIRE MK. IXc

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SPITFIRE MK. IXc

28 BUILDING THE AIRCRAFT - SPITFIRE MK. IXc