Off Road Solutions

ORS-EC020
3.4L Full Conversion Kit - Manual Transmission
Tacoma, 4Runner, Tundra donor vehicle

Congratulations on purchasing your ORS 3.4L Conversion Kit, you are on your way to happy motoring!

Please read and fully understand these instructions BEFORE starting work. This installation and any
problems occurred within are the sole responsibility of the installer. We strongly recommend that you
acquire all the necessary parts and tools before starting this project.

Although this kit was originated around the 3.0L (3VZ-E) engine, these instructions were written for both
3.0L and 22R applications. 22R applications will need to be supplemented with the ORS engine mount kit
to convert the frame for V6 motor mounts. 22R applications will also need a V6 or turbo 4-cylinder type
manual transmission (R150 or R151)

This kit is designed to supplement the engine and related parts pulled from the 3.4L donor vehicle. This is
what you will find in your kit:

PACKING LIST
• Oil pan
• Oil dip-stick
• Oil dip-stick tube
• Oil sump
• Clutch pressure plate
• Clutch disc
• Release bearing
• Pilot bearing
• Power steering belt
• A/C Belt
• Alternator belt
• Upper radiator hose
• Lower radiator hose
• Oil filter
• Motor mount isolators (2)
• Conversion wiring harness
• High pressure power steering hose
• Battery tray
• Power steering return hose- 3/8” oil cooler
• Vacuum hose (3 sizes)
• Toyota FIPG (gasket maker)
• Fuel high pressure hose
• Assorted zip ties
• Clutch hydraulic hose
• Fuel return hose – ¼” fuel line

1
• Assorted heater hoses (4)
• Spark plugs (6)

BAG 1
• Oil dip-stick adapter
• Retaining clamps
• Tap
• Dip stick hole plug
• Oil drain plug

BAG 2
• Oil sump gasket
• Oil dip-stick tube O-ring
• Oil drain plug gasket
• Vacuum tees/plugs
• P/S hose gasket (gold) (ABS only)

BAG 3
• Large hose clamps (4)
• Medium hose clamps (6)
• Small hose clamps (6)
• Clutch hose bracket

These parts are NOT included in our kit and will need to be provided by the customer from a 5VZ-FE
equipped vehicle.
 5VZ-FE long-block- new, remanufactured, or used
 Both exhaust manifolds and crossover pipe (unless using a header system)
 Intake manifold
 Intake plenum with throttle body
 All items on motor related to fuel injection such as injectors, fuel rail, VSV’s, sensors, throttle body,
etc.
 Alternator and brackets
 Power steering pump and brackets
 A/C compressor and brackets
 Spark plugs (6)
 Spark plug wire set
 Cylinder coil packs (3)
 Engine (injector) wiring harness
 ECU (Engine Control Unit, computer)
 Igniter assembly
 Intake system- tubing, air box, air filter.
 Evaporative canister (optional)
 Evaporative vapor pressure sensor
 Evaporative vapor pressure VSV
 Evaporative purge VSV
 Starter
 Air flow meter
 Flywheel with mounting hardware
 Oxygen sensors – pre and post catalytic converter
 All the hardware you can get your hands on….

ORS strongly recommends that all donor parts come from the same vehicle. If this is not possible, here are
a few of the problems that you may encounter:

2
**In mid ’97 Toyota started using a 3-wire Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) instead of a 4 wire unit.
Unfortunately the two have a different throttle body, so changing from one type to another requires
changing the entire throttle body.

**’99 and later air flow meters are a “piggyback” style that mount to the side of the intake tube. ‘’98 and
earlier air flow meters are larger and fit inline with the air intake tube. Both types have the same electrical
connectors but will cause very poor driveability with the wrong ECU.

New parts can be used, however, used parts are most common. Remember that used parts are always a
gamble. No matter what the situation, there is always a risk that a used part may fail prematurely. At best,
a salvage yard will warranty the parts with a used replacement. A labor warranty from a salvage yard is
almost unheard of. We highly recommend a compression test of the engine. Any background information
may also be useful, such as the nature of the wreck that put the donor vehicle into the salvage yard.

If you have a 3.0L, the following parts will need to be re-used from your vehicle if in good condition. If
you are starting with a 22R, we recommend purchasing these parts new and/or finding used parts in good
condition.
 Radiator, 3.0L application
 3.0L Fan Shroud
 Bell housing x engine bolts, 3.0L application (6)
 Oil sending unit - if a gauge is being used, 22R or 3.0 work
 3.0L engine mount brackets, block to mount
 Cruise control actuator, if desired
 3.0L engine fan (optional)
 3.0L fan clutch (optional)
 Engine x bell housing stiffening brackets (optional)
 Evaporative canister (optional)
 Save and organize your original hardware, it helps….

1) Remove the 3.0L engine and related components from your vehicle. This will include the upper
bank of VSVs (vacuum switching valves), the igniter assembly, intake system, battery, radiator, and
heater hoses. If your vehicle is equipped with ABS, remove the high and low pressure power
steering hoses that are routed from the power steering pump to the ABS actuator on the right side
frame rail.
2) If your vehicle is not equipped with ABS, remove the high and low pressure power steering hoses
that run from the power steering pump to the steering gear. If using your original evaporative
canister, leave it in the vehicle. If using the donor vehicle’s canister, remove the original canister.
3) Leave the throttle cable in the vehicle-it will be reused. Save the bell housing x engine block (3.0L)
and the motor mount x frame hardware!
4) Remove the stiffening brackets, engine mount assemblies, and oil sending unit (if an oil gauge is
used) from the 3.0L engine block and set aside, they will be used later.
5) Secure the 3.4L engine in an engine stand. Drain any oil from the engine. Drain any coolant from
the block using the block coolant plug. Remove the oil dipstick and tube from the engine.
6) Carefully turn the engine upside down in stand.
7) Remove the 6mm bolts securing the pan to the block. Carefully break the sealant bead and remove
the oil pan from the engine.
8) Using the provided ¼” X 18 NPT size tap, thread the hole in the oil pump housing that the original
dipstick tube came from. Be sure to thread the hole from the outside of the engine. CAUTION: Be
sure to keep ALL metal particles out of engine. Completely cover the internal engine parts before
tapping!

3
 9) Install the provided dipstick hole
plug in the newly tapped hole, from the
outside of the engine.
10) If the auxiliary oil dipstick hole
exists (see illustration), carefully drive the
original plug from the block.

11) If an auxiliary hole does not exist, a new hole will have to be drilled in the block to accept the oil
dipstick tube adapter. Turn the engine back over in the stand. Using a 3/8” or “U” size drill bit,
drill a hole that is center and perpendicular with the face of the existing landing. We recommend
starting with the “U” size bit. The oil dip-stick adapter is a press fit into this hole, exact size is very
important. While a 3/8” drill bit will work, any imperfections in drilling may cause the hole to be
too large. Drill this hole from the outside of the engine. Once again, keep all metal particles from
entering the engine.

12) Drive the new oil dipstick adapter into the

side of the block, from the outside. The adapter will
stop once the machined “step” has reached the block.
Install the O-ring on the new dipstick tube and insert
tube into adapter. Bolt the tube bracket to the head,
exchanging it for existing bracket.

13) Make sure all metal particles are out of the crankcase area. Turn the engine upside down once
again. Remove the oil sump assembly.
14) Using clean rags or whatever necessary, cover the engine crankcase components to prevent
contamination while cleaning. Carefully clean the oil pan mounting surface on the block. Remove
the oil sump gasket from the block and carefully clean the sealing surface. Verify that all studs in
the block are still “snug”.
15) Install the provided oil sump gasket and oil sump onto the block. Re-arrange the fastening nuts on
the oil baffle to accommodate the new oil sump (if necessary). Tighten the 6mm nuts to 66 lbs-in.
Tighten all nuts and bolts on the oil baffle and re-check the torque on the 6mm sump nuts.
16) Apply a bead of the Toyota FIPG to the provided oil pan. Be sure to drive the FIPG into the
grooves of the oil pan and around the mounting holes to ensure a good seal.
17) Install the oil pan on the engine block and torque the mounting bolts to 52 lbs-in. using a “criss-
cross” pattern. Install and tighten the provided oil drain plug and gasket in the oil pan.
18) Turn the engine back over in the stand.
19) Remove the engine mount assemblies from the 3.4L block.
20) Install the 3.0L engine mount brackets on the 3.4L block in the same location. Replace the rubber
isolators with the provided units.
21) If the 3.4L is equipped with a coolant drain fitting, this will fit very close to the motor
mount. ORS has found these to fit tight without modification. If necessary, grind a small amount
from the motor mount to clear the drain fitting.
22) If using an A/C system, modifications may have to be made to fit the A/C compressor bracket. If
necessary, grind the motor mount or A/C compressor bracket to allow them to mount flush to the
block.
23) Re-check all engine mount hardware for proper torque.
24) Install the 3.4L alternator and P/S pump to the engine.
25) Remove the alternator belt tensioning bolt from the
mounting stud on the lower mounting bracket. Cut the end
portion from the lower alternator bracket for steering shaft
clearance. The alternator will now be tensioned by hand and
held in place by the remaining stud and nut.

4
26) IF USING OEM EXHAUST MANIFOLDS: Steps 27-31
27) If they are not already installed, install the OEM 3.4L exhaust manifolds. The original metal gasket
is sufficient and re-usable if in good condition.
28) Install the exhaust crossover pipe. If using the ORS 3.4L exhaust crossover, refer to the
installation notes provided with the crossover pipe. The ORS 3.4L Exhaust Crossover Pipe
joins both exhaust manifolds and routes the entire exhaust down the driver side of the vehicle. This
places the exhaust on the side that the vehicle was designed for, making the exhaust
installation/building simpler and the entire setup more reliable.
29) On 3.0L applications, ORS recommends using the original heat blanket on the firewall. If the
blanket is in poor condition, it can be replaced through Toyota, PN 55225-89102.
30) On 22R-E applications, a heat shield/blanket on the firewall is not required, but is a good
precaution to reduce the heat transmitted though the firewall from the crossover pipe. Ideally, the
engine will have to be initially placed in the vehicle for shielding location, then removed for
shielding installation.

31) As stated in the ORS

crossover pipe installation notes,
be sure header wrap is installed
around the ORS crossover pipe.
See illustration.

32) IF USING THE DOWNEY HEADER SYSTEM: Steps 33 & 34

33) The Downey header system will fit very close to the frame rails, especially on the passenger side.
This makes it difficult to install an exhaust system to the header collectors. The headers will be
installed after the engine is in the vehicle.
34) Remove the original exhaust studs from the head and clean the manifold mounting surface
thoroughly with a razor blade or wire wheel. Place rags or tape over the exhaust chambers in the
head to prevent anything from entering the exhaust passage.

35) IF KEEPING THE BATTERY IN THE ENGINE BAY: Steps 36-39

36) Place the provided battery tray on the left front inner fender-well in the engine bay. This is
opposite of the original battery tray. Using a paint pen or marker, mark the fender well around the
perimeter of the battery tray. Set the battery tray aside.
37) Carefully remove paint from
the inner fender well around these
marks. Clean up any debris from
grinding or sanding. Prime and paint
the underside of the battery tray prior to
installation.
38) Position the battery tray and
tack-weld to the fender well.
39) After cooling, prime and paint
the battery tray and fender well area.

40) 22R applications: Remove the clutch-line retaining tab from the firewall. Carefully tack weld this
clutch line retaining tab to the firewall about 13” from the passenger side fender and about 3”
below the firewall main rail. If welding is not feasible, fabricate a bracket that could retain the hose
while bolting to the firewall main rail. Smooth the cut area, primer and paint both of the affected
areas. Replace or modify the firewall hard line to fit. NOTE: If welding to the firewall, take special
care not to penetrate past the first layer of sheet metal. Over-penetration could cause a fire inside
the cab.
41) Safely secure the engine to an engine hoist. Remove the stand from the engine.

5
42) We highly recommend machining the 3.4L flywheel prior to installation to ensure smooth
operation. Install the 3.4L flywheel on the engine. Apply thread locker to the original 3.4L
flywheel bolts and torque to 63 ft-lbs in a star pattern. Note: When holding the crankshaft in place,
do not use the crankshaft pulley bolt - this will loosen the bolt. We recommend using a flywheel
strap on the flywheel or a chain wrench on the front pulley to hold the crankshaft in place.
43) As a precaution, check the torque of the front crankshaft pulley mounting bolt. The early versions
of the 3.4L were prone to loosening up. The torque spec. is 215 ft-lbs. If this bolt is found loose at
all, remove the bolt, apply thread locker and re-install using the specified torque.
44) Install the provided pilot bearing into the end of the crankshaft. Check the bearing for smooth
operation to ensure proper installation. Clean the friction surface on the flywheel.
45) Using a clutch alignment tool, center the provided clutch disc on the flywheel. The disc springs
must be facing toward the flywheel. Install the provided pressure plate onto the flywheel and
torque the mounting bolts in a star pattern to 14 ft-lbs.
46) Remove the clutch fork from the transmission. Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the ball in the
bell housing and the pivot point on the fork. Also apply a thin coat to the prongs that engage the
release bearing. Clean the input shaft cover and apply a thin coat of wheel bearing grease to the
cover.
47) Install the clutch fork in the transmission with the provided release bearing. Be sure that all
mounting clips are secure.
48) Carefully lower the 3.4L engine into the vehicle. Align the engine with the transmission and place
in the engine mounts. Re-use the engine mount x frame and bell housing x block hardware from
the 3.0L motor.
49) Install the stiffening plates (optional) from the 3.0L to the 3.4L engine in the same place and secure
the original mounting hardware in the block and bell housing. Toyota does not use these holes on
the 3.4L block, they may need tapping to clean the threads.

50) Modify the 3.4L starter

to fit this application. Carefully
drill the LOWER mounting hole in
the 3.4L starter with a 7/16” bit.
Clean any metal particles from the
starter.

51) Install the starter using the mounting bolts from the 3.0L application.
52) Install the provided clutch hose
bracket on the passenger side cylinder head.
The proper mounting hole is located in the
rear upper corner of the passenger side
cylinder head. Use the longer bracket if
using the OEM exhaust manifolds. The
shorter bracket is used with the Downey
header system.

53) Install the 3.0L radiator and overflow tank in their original locations.
54) Install the 3.4L or 3.0L fan clutch, the 3.0L fan, and 3.4L pulleys to the front of the 3.4L engine.
There are 2 types of fans that came with the 3.0L. The most common is the enclosed type, with a
ring around the blades. The second is the smaller, blade type. For safety and fit, ORS highly
recommends using the smaller blade type, Toyota part # 16361-65020.
55) Install the provided drive belts using proper tension.
56) Install 3.0L fan shroud. The shroud may need trimming to clear the engine fan.
57) Install the provided upper and lower radiator hoses and clamps.
58) Install the provided heater hoses. This conversion kit provides 4 heater hoses. Pick the hoses that
best fit your application. Some may need modification to fit.

6
59) Install the provided spark plugs. Check the condition of the existing spark plug wires. If
replacement is needed, we strongly recommend the use of Toyota spark plug wires. On a Toyota,
after-market wires normally cause the engine to run poorly.

FUEL SYSTEM
60) Carburetor applications: Remove the original fuel supply lines and replace with high pressure
lines. Build or install a high pressure fuel line from the fuel tank to the engine bay area. Install a
high pressure fuel filter somewhere in this line. Fuel lines and a filter from a 3.0L application work
well. Install a high pressure fuel pump at the beginning of this line. An inline pump can be used,
however, ORS recommends the use of an in-tank pump to avoid “vapor-lock” conditions. A fuel
tank from a fuel injected application of a similar year may bolt straight in. The fuel pump used
must be intended for fuel injection systems running at least 60 psi of constant pressure. Follow
instructions 62-66.
61) 22R-E Applications: Install a high pressure fuel filter in the high pressure fuel line between the
tank and the engine bay. We recommend a filter from a 3.0L application. The fuel lines can be cut
and flared to accept the fuel filter or fuel lines and a filter from a 3.0L application can be installed.
62) All applications: The original fuel supply line enters the engine bay on the passenger side frame
rail (on fuel injected models). At this point, there should be a female to female fitting (union). This
union is necessary. This union is sometimes left on the original fuel supply hose (on the original
engine). This fitting can be found through Toyota, PN 90404-14014.
63) Install the blue adapters provided with the fuel high pressure hose into the end of the 3.4L fuel
supply hose (attached to the rear fuel rail) and the union on the original fuel supply line. Tighten all
fittings.
64) Route the original 3.4L fuel supply hose along the firewall main rail to passenger side of
the engine bay. Install the provided high pressure fuel hose to the end of the 3.4L fuel supply hose.
Route this hose down the firewall to the line and union below. Connect the high pressure fuel hose
to the fuel supply line. Tighten all fittings.
65) The original 22R-E or 3.0L fuel pump (in-tank) normally work well in this swap. If a supercharger
is used, ORS recommends upgrading to a performance fuel pump.
66) Route the provided ¼” fuel return
hose from the port directly under plenum on
driver side to the original fuel return port on
the firewall next to the evaporative canister.
Using the provided hose clamps, secure the
return hose at both ends. See illustrations.

67) Install one blue adapter provided with the power steering high pressure hose into the high pressure
outlet of the P/S pump. Be sure the gold-colored male fitting is in place in the pressure port.
Tighten the adapter. The original vacuum or electrical valve at the high pressure port will not be
needed.
68) Install the other provided blue adapter into the steering gear or the ABS actuator (if equipped). If
using the ABS actuator, the provided brass O-Ring is installed between the adapter and the ABS
actuator as a seal. If installing the adapter into the steering gear, be sure the gold-colored male
fitting is in place in the steering gear port. Tighten the adapter.

69) Route the provided power-steering

high-pressure hose from the pump, under the
fan shroud, to the steering gear. On ABS
models, route the hose from the P/S pump
toward the rear of the vehicle, bend the hose
to a “U-shape” and route the other end down

7
 to the ABS actuator. Install the hose onto the
blue adapters and tighten. See illustration.

70) Using the supplied hose, route and install the 3/8 oil cooler return hose from the pump to the
steering gear or ABS actuator. Tighten with the provided clamps.
71) Install the clutch slave cylinder on the bell-housing.
72) Install the original hard line and route to the clutch hose bracket on the engine head. Install the
provided clutch hose between the engine bracket and original bracket on the firewall.
73) 22R applications: The hard line from the slave cylinder to the engine head will need to be used
from a 3.0L application, or the original will have to be modified to fit.
74) Tighten the upper and lower fittings. Use a 17mm wrench to hold the clutch hose in place on the
lower mount.
75) Bleed the clutch hydraulic system and check for leaks.
76) Using the original hose and clamps, route vacuum from the brake booster to the port on the driver
side of the intake plenum. Be sure to place the original one way check valve inline, in the PROPER
direction.
77) There are two options to consider with the evaporative emissions system (EVAP) in this
conversion. The first is to use the EVAP canister from the donor vehicle. This canister is larger
and will consume more under-hood space. However, it is the best way to ensure flawless operation
of the evaporative system. Another advantage of the 3.4L canister is that it will be more emission-
law-friendly. The other option is to use the canister from the 3.0L or 22R application. When
installed properly, this canister works very well and fits much cleaner in the engine bay.
78) If using the 3.4L canister: mount the canister assembly directly in front of the brake master
cylinder on the driver side fender well. Install the pressure sensor VSV and purge VSV on the
canister assembly. Mount the vapor pressure sensor to the firewall. Using the provided hoses,
properly route and connect all vacuum hoses.

79) If using the 3.0L canister, be sure

the canister is mounted in its stock location.
Mount the purge VSV, vapor pressure VSV,
and vapor pressure sensor on the firewall.
See illustration. Using the provided hoses,
properly route the evaporative vacuum hoses.
Refer to the diagram at the end of these
instructions.

80) Locate the air flow meter. Be sure that the sensor is clean inside. Any dust, oil, or other
contaminants can make the engine run VERY poorly - even small amounts. We recommend using
a sensor-safe or electrical cleaner to clear any contaminants from the air flow meter.
81) Install the intake system. If using the 3.4L original plumbing and intake box, drill holes in the inner
fender well to fit the air cleaner assembly on the passenger side (on the original battery tray).
Before doing so, we recommend test fitting. Because of body shape differences, the original 3.4L
intake system is a tight fit and may need trimming and modifications.
82) We have found the after market open-air element intake systems to work very well. If using this
type, pre-assemble the system (with the air flow meter) outside the vehicle per manufacturer’s
instructions. Leave all hose connections slightly loose. Lay the intake system in the engine bay
and connect to throttle body. Support the main intake tube at the desired height and make sure all
components are oriented properly. Tighten all connections. Fasten the intake system to the inner
fender well, using the bracket provided with the intake system. Drill a mounting hole, or modify
the bracket to use an existing hole. Make sure the mounting bracket is supporting the weight of
intake tube at the proper height.

EXHAUST
83) If using the Downey header system: Pre-install the headers without any gaskets. Lightly snug
the headers to the engine head using the provided hardware. Do not use gaskets or fully tighten as
the headers will be removed.

8
 84) The port on the driver side header
is for an EGR pipe. If EGR is not present,
use the cap and gasket provided with the
Downey system to plug this port. At this
point, the cap may not clear the steering
shaft. If not, grind a little from the cap to
clear the shaft. If this isn’t enough, cut the
port from the header, cap the hole, and weld
the hole shut. Take care to re-finish this
surface with whatever necessary to prevent
corrosion. See the illustration of a
“fabricated solution”.
85) Decide on the method in which the header collectors will be connected to the rest of the exhaust.
We recommend a 3 or 4 bolt flange setup for the best seal. We also recommend extending the
collector safely past the clutch slave cylinder on the passenger side. This may require cutting the
collector shorter and re-routing its path as it passes by the slave cylinder.
86) A slip style connection can also be used at the collector. If so, we recommend the use of a band
style clamp to prevent crushing of the exhaust tube upon tightening.
87) Once the desired method
is decided upon, tack weld any
flange or extend/modify the
collectors to fit. Remove the
headers from the vehicle and
perform any necessary welding and
painting.
88) Install the headers to the
engine heads using the
manufacturer’s instructions.
89) Build the exhaust system.
We recommend a diameter of 2.5”.
Merge the collector pipes before the
catalytic converter(s). We highly
recommend the use of a flex coupler
in each pipe directly after the header
collector. This will greatly extend
the life of the headers. See
illustration.
90) Proper catalytic converter and oxygen sensor location is necessary for the engine to run properly. If
the donor vehicle had 1 catalytic converter (Federal pre 00 and earlier) use one sufficient converter.
If the donor vehicle had two catalytic converters (California and 01 and later), use two sufficient
converters. Place one oxygen sensor before the converter(s) and one after the converter(s).

91) If using the ORS 3.4L Crossover Pipe: Refer to the installation notes provided with the crossover
pipe. Build the rest of the exhaust system. The exhaust can be joined into the original system,
however, ORS recommend an exhaust system with a 2.5” diameter, including the catalytic
converter.
92) Proper catalytic converter and oxygen sensor location is necessary for the engine to run properly. If
the donor vehicle had 1 catalytic converter (Federal and ’00 and older), use one sufficient
converter. If the donor vehicle had two catalytic converters (California and ‘01 and later), use two
sufficient converters. Place one oxygen sensor before the converter(s) and one after the
converter(s).

93) Using the original 3.4L crossover pipe: The most inexpensive method is to re-use the original
manifolds and crossover pipe. This will exit the exhaust on the passenger side. If doing so, build
an exhaust system down the passenger side of the transmission and cross over under the rear
driveshaft to the driver side, in order to accommodate the fuel tank. If using this method, heat
shielding will be necessary for the fuel, brake, and clutch lines/hoses routed down the passenger
side of the vehicle.

9
 94) This method may not be as clean or reliable because the vehicle was not designed to have an
exhaust system on that side. Routing the exhaust down the passenger side can cause problems with
heat transfer and can be very difficult to do properly.
95) Build the exhaust from the crossover.
96) Proper catalytic converter and oxygen sensor location is necessary for the engine to run properly. If
the donor vehicle had 1 catalytic converter (Federal pre 00 and earlier) one sufficient converter will
need to be used. If the donor vehicle had two catalytic converters (California and 01 and later), two
sufficient converters will need to be used. Place one oxygen sensor before the converter(s) and one
after the converter(s).

WIRING

*****NOTICE TO CUSTOMER: If there is a problem suspected with the wiring harness, call ORS. DO
NOT cut, alter, or dissect the ORS conversion harness. ORS accepts no responsibility for a harness that has
been tampered with – NO EXCETPIONS.
If using an ‘02-’04 engine, refer to the late model wiring supplement at the end of these instructions. This
supplement may or may not apply to your application. If the donor vehicle was originally a ’85-’88 model
equipped with the 22R-E, refer to the supplement at the end of these instructions.

97) ORS recommends the use of the 3.4L battery harness. This is the harness that connects the battery
terminals to the starter and engine grounds in the donor vehicle. The alternator and starter wiring
are also contained in this harness. If this harness is damaged or not available, ORS offers a
conversion replacement for this harness, PN ORS-EC046. Install this harness to the engine using
the original configuration. Connect the engine ground cable and the starter terminal and cable.
Connect the alternator connector and main lead. Route the battery harness underneath the steering
shaft and up the driver side fender-well to the battery. Do not connect the battery terminals at this
time. If using the ORS 3.4L Battery harness, refer to the provided ORS Battery Harness
Installation Notes.
98) If not using the 3.4L battery harness: Build and install a battery cable from the starter main
terminal to the battery positive terminal. Build and install a battery cable from a solid engine
ground to the battery negative terminal. Do not connect the battery cables at this time.
99) Be sure the 3.4L engine wiring harness is properly installed on the engine and all connectors are
plugged in. Route the harness lead behind the alternator and down the driver side of the engine and
transmission. We highly recommend wrapping the harness with heat tape or exhaust wrap
anywhere the harness passes close to the exhaust.
100) Connect the engine harness to the oxygen sensor leads. Depending on your application, there may
only be one oxygen sensor connector in the engine harness. If only one is found, the other is
contained in the ORS harness and will be connected later.
101) Secure the wiring harness and additional connectors in place using the provided clamps and
hardware. Be sure the wiring harness is free and clear of exhaust parts to prevent heat damage.

102) Route the engine harness main loom

(under hood) toward the passenger side. We
recommend routing this harness in front of the
fuel and brake lines, under the clutch hose and
behind the original evaporative canister. The
canister firewall mount is a good location to
secure this main loom to the firewall using the
provided routing clamps.

103) Route the engine wiring harness

through the passenger side firewall and down
to the kick-panel. Connect the 3 ECU

10
 connectors to the ECU and lay the ECU in
the kick panel area.
104) Lay the ORS conversion harness
near the kick panel. Orient the harness so
that the leads are pointing in the proper
direction.

105) Route the diagnostic lead under the dashboard to the driver side of the vehicle. Find a suitable
location near the bottom of the steering column and mount the diagnostic (OBDII) connector. This
connector serves as a connection between an OBDII scanner and the ECU.
106) Disconnect the fuse holder from the ORS harness. Route the harness end of the lead through the
firewall on the driver side. Under the hood, re-connect the fuse-holder. Route and connect this
lead to the battery positive terminal. Don’t connect the battery at this time.
107) Fasten the lead labeled “ground” from the diagnostic connector to a suitable ground location under
the dashboard.
108) Route all other leads out the firewall into the engine bay (passenger side).
109) Connect the ORS harness ECU connector(s) to the ECU.
110) Connect the ORS harness to the 3.4L engine wiring harness (1 or 2 connectors). Secure the latch
on the top of the connector(s), if applicable.
111) Connect the ORS harness to the vehicle body wiring harness. These are the white and gray
connectors found in the passenger side kick-panel.
112) The ORS harness contains a lead labeled “tachometer”. This lead contains a tachometer signal
from the igniter. If an aftermarket tachometer is desired, this lead will give the necessary signal. If
an aftermarket tachometer is not used, cover the end with tape or shrink-wrap and tape this lead to
the side of the ORS harness.
113) Note: If using the original tachometer, it is already pre-wired in our harness.
114) Route the transfer case (and sometimes reverse light, oxygen sensor, speed sensor) leads (under
the hood now) down the passenger side of the vehicle. Using the provided clamps and zip ties,
secure the harness to the firewall and metal lines a safe distance from the exhaust.
115) If the ORS harness has 2 leads labeled “reverse light S/W”, cut and splice these wires into the
reverse light switch on the side of the transmission. This switch is non-directional, meaning each
wire has no specific match. If these leads are not on the ORS harness, connect the reverse light
connector from the 3.4L engine harness to the reverse light switch.
116) Cut and splice the leads labeled “transfer case 4WD light S/W” into the transfer case position
switch. This switch is also non-directional. Be sure that all connections are secure and sealed.
Also be sure the wiring harness is properly routed out of “harm’s” way.
117) If applicable, route the evaporative leads (under the hood now) across the firewall to the driver
side. Connect to the appropriate evaporative valves and vapor pressure sensor.
118) Mount the 3.4L ECU. The brackets bolted to the side of the ECU share the same bolt pattern as
all Toyota ECU’s. This allows the installer to share brackets from any ECU to help in the
mounting process. Find a location near the passenger side kick-panel that will house the ECU. Be
sure that the ORS wiring harness and the 3.4L engine wiring harness leads will reach the ECU and
plug in. If the vehicle does not have A/C it is possible to mount the ECU behind the glove box.
119) The lead labeled “starter” (under the hood) is ultimately connected to the smaller “trigger”
terminal on the starter. This can be done one of two ways. 1) If using the 3.4L battery harness:
route the “starter” lead across the engine bay (in front of radiator), to the battery area. Cut the 4-pin
connector from this harness (located near the battery terminals). Splice the wire labeled “starter” to
the black wire in this connector. Be sure the connection is secure and sealed. 2) If not using the
3.4L battery harness, route the “starter” lead to the starter. Directly connect this lead to the trigger
terminal on the starter.

ALTERNATOR WIRING
120) There are 2 ways to wire the alternator.

FIRST METHOD

11
 121) The first method is to connect the original vehicle alternator connector and cable directly to the
alternator. This is only possible on later models. This will method also stretches the leads and
cable over the steering shaft.

SECOND METHOD
122) The second method uses the 3.4L battery harness to route the alternator circuit beneath the
steering shaft with the battery cables. This method is also useful when the original connector does
not match the alternator. Locate the vehicle’s original alternator connector.
123) Cut the connector from the harness. Read the following instructions to be sure the right length of
wire lead is cut.
124) If the “starter” lead was spliced into the 3.4L battery harness, locate the remaining wires from
the 4 wire connector (on the 3.4L battery harness).
125) If the starter lead was NOT spliced into the 3.4L battery harness, locate the 4 wire connector
on the 3.4L battery harness near the battery terminals. Cut the connector from the harness.
126) Splice the 3 wires from the original alternator connector to the remaining 3 leads on the 3.4L
battery harness. Be sure to match wire colors! Be sure all connections are sealed and secure.
Locate the opposite end of the alternator cable on the 3.4L battery harness. This cable end
terminates near the battery terminals on the 3.4L battery harness and connected to the fuse box in
the donor vehicle.
127) Locate the original alternator cable near the original alternator connector.
128) Splice these two cables together. Take the time to make a good connection as this is a crucial
circuit.
129) Connect the alternator connector and cable in the 3.4L battery harness to the alternator.

130) Find the power supply wire from the original fuse box, near the original battery location. This
wire previously connected to the battery positive terminal. Using the provided wire (same gauge or
larger), extend this wire around the engine bay (in front of radiator), to the battery positive terminal.
Install the small section of fusible link wire (provided) inline, near the battery positive terminal.
Connect this lead to the battery positive terminal.
131) Be sure the power supply wire and “starter” leads that were routed in front of the radiator are
loomed and properly secured below the radiator support. Excessive contact with the radiator when
hot can damage this wiring. Use insulation or further fastening where necessary to prevent
excessive contact with the radiator.
132) Most 3.4L engines come standard with an oil pressure switch to operate a light on the dash. Many
older vehicles had a gauge on the dash, which used an oil sender. If the original vehicle has a
gauge, replace the oil switch on the 3.4L motor with the oil sender from the original (22R or 3.0L
work) engine - it is a direct swap. If a new oil sender is needed, Toyota PN 83520-34010 works
very well.
133) The ORS wiring harness pre-wires the vehicle’s tachometer. However, this tachometer will not
work without modification. There is a method which involves adding a resistor to the circuit board
that will allow the original tachometer to work. We cannot take credit for this method and will not
instruct on it. We suggest searching pirate4.4.com, yotatech.com, or 4x4wire.com for instructions
on this modification.
134) Go through all wiring and be sure that all wires are routed properly and securely fastened. Be sure
that all wires are clear of exhaust parts, engine parts, and sharp edges.

COMPLETION
135) Using the provided clamps ensure that all hoses, wires, and lines are routed properly and securely
fastened. Secure the power steering high and low pressure hoses to the frame, lower radiator
shroud, or wherever necessary to prevent any rubbing. Be sure the fuel high pressure hose is safely
fastened (away from the exhaust) to the firewall to prevent rubbing.
136) Check the firewall area and be sure the heater hoses, fuel return hose and all evaporative hoses are
safely routed and/or fastened.
137) Look over the engine and be sure all fasteners and clamps are tight. Proper routing and finish
work of a conversion can mean the difference between a reliable vehicle and a “lemon”.
138) Fill and check all fluid levels. Connect the battery terminals and install the fuse in the ORS
conversion harness fuse-holder.

12
 139) Start the engine. Yee-haw!
140) Check for any major leaks. Bring the engine to operating temperature while bleeding the cooling
system. Shut vehicle off and check for any leaks. Check all fluid levels.
141) If using a remanufactured or new engine, follow break-in procedures.
142) In the first few hundred miles, keep a close eye on the engine for any leaks or problems.
143) The diagnostic port provided in the ORS conversion harness can be used with any OBDII scanner
just as it would in the donor vehicle.
144) Congratulations on your new power-plant!

EVAPORATIVE HOSE ROUTING DIAGRAM

-USING ORIGINAL CANISTER-

LATE WIRING MODEL SUPPLEMENT

*****NOTICE TO CUSTOMER: These instructions are only meant as a supplement to the original
instructions. This supplement covers a few features only found on the late model 3.4l engines.

13
• If there is a 4 terminal white connector labeled “stop light switch”: A stop light switch will need to
be purchased from a Toyota dealer using the 3.4L VIN number. Install this switch in place of the older
vehicle’s original stop light switch. The switch should be installed in the same manner as the original
switch. Slightly modify the switch bracket if necessary for proper adjustment. Route the ORS
conversion harness lead labeled “stop light switch” across the vehicle and connect to the new stop light
switch. Splice the signal side wire (wire w/out power-ign. on) from the original connector into the
signal wire of the ORS harness. This wire leads into the 4-wire brake light switch, terminal 1. See
illustration.

• If there is a set of leads labeled “to battery” with different fuse designations, usually 3 or more leads:
ORS recommends the use of a fuse block to house the fuses needed for the different circuits. Mount
the fuse block to an appropriate surface. Connect the multiple leads to different ports within the fuse
block. Connect the large power supply of the fuse block to the battery positive terminal using 8 to 6
gauge wire, depending on the number of circuits. If this larger wire is significant in length, ORS
recommend the use of a fusible link inline in the circuit. Install the appropriate size fuses in the fuse
block, according to the labels.

WIRING SUPPLEMENT
’85-’88 TRUCKS/4RUNNERS ORIGINALLY EQUIPPED WITH THE
22R-E ENGINE
• Find the original ECU connector from the 22R-E ECU, this will still be located in the P/S kick-
panel area, attached to the original “dash” or main harness. This is a yellow 14-pin connector.
This is ECU connector V.
• Locate the leads on the ORS harness labeled “to ECU connector V”. Splice these leads directly to
the corresponding wires in connector V.
• Locate the lead labeled “to injector resistor”. This lead is to be routed out the firewall to the
passenger side inner fender area. Locate the original injector resistor connector (yellow, 1 wire)

14
 still left on the original main wiring harness. The ORS lead should be connected directly into this
connector. Tape for water-proofing if applicable.
• Locate the lead labeled “to original igniter 2-wire connector, black wire”. Route this lead out and
across the firewall to the D/S inner fender area. Locate the original igniter/coil connector still left
on the main harness (green 2-wire). Splice the ORS lead directly to the black wire.

15