Documenti di Didattica
Documenti di Professioni
Documenti di Cultura
Love your
Make it patterns
I N S I Z ES 7.99 | Issue 29
Nov/Dec 2017
10-20
*
Tonight!
E A SY C R E P E TO P SEW
Academy...
LEARN HOW
TO M A ST E R
PERFECT
P L E AT S
Wrap
it up!
Elegant Capelet
Look!
COULD A
O U R C MMH
YO U B E
PION
R
Brands we
LOVE
D R E S S A1 8 E?
K
FOR 2 0
Se e pa ge 30
MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 29_MAKE IT TODAY 03/11/2017 14:15 Page 2
ISSUE 29
Welcome Contents
We love the run-up to Christmas here at YOUR FREE GIFT 30 Dressmaker of the Year
Dressmaker HQ; its the season to be 13 Party Dresses Your chance to get involved
Four fab frocks to stitch for and win the coveted title
merry and what could be nicer than the party season 33 Art Gallery Fabrics
making a stylish outfit to wear for the office party or 25 Pussy Bow Tops A showcase of our favourite
Loose, flowing tops with winter warmers
Christmas Day lunch? The best thing about making statement shoulder bows 41 Pretty In Pleats
your own is that you have the luxury of using a Perfect your fashion folds
favourite fabric in the colour of your choice, giving with a heritage technique
BONUS MAKES 55 Workshops
plenty of options for accessorising. Weve got two fab 19 Pleated Skirt
Chic gathered number in a Embroider your way to party
patterns: New Look 6245 offers four pussy-bow tops, classic cranberry hue dress success with these courses
from a silky stretch crepe in rich aubergine to a casual 22 Vintage Capelet 58 Sewing Detective
Ooze class and sophistication Lorna Knight talks sewing
version in a gorgeous Japanese floral print (p25). For in a look thats totally swish with glitzy fabric and lining
casual elegance, New Look 6322s quartet of dresses 44 Poppy Top 71 The Practicals
Master the art of working
are sure to be real crowd-pleasers (p13). The shaped Stitch a pretty fuss-free
number to wear all year round with tricky party materials
bodice creates a flattering line in all the right places; 51 Tweed Jacket 74 Interview: Lisa Comfort
plus, there are two sleeve variations and finishes. Be iconic in a classic We sit down for a chat with
Chanel-inspired garment the Sew Over It founder
Our talented dressmaker Amanda Walker works her 56 Dressing Gown
magic by transforming medium-weight linen into a Sweet dreams are guaranteed SHOWCASES
statement skirt (p19) and creates an eye-catching in this delicate delight 18 Simplicity Party Flair
62 Kelly Bag Turn heads when you walk
tweed check jacket with a nostalgic nod to Chanel Classic accessory in a into the big Christmas bash
(p51). Deputy Editor Janey also puts the spotlight on beautiful herringbone print 39 Simplicity Skirt Alert
64 Winter Wrap Heather Jacks outlines the
pleats and chats to the experts who have mastered importance of fabric choice
On-trend mustard yellow
this classic technique (p41). shawl with leather details 60 Simplicity Little
Before I go, dont forget to check out the Dressmaker 66 Raglan Sleeved Jacket Black Dresses
Cosy throw-on number for Classic numbers that are a
of the Year competition on page 30. Weve got a the winter months wardrobe must-have
wonderful line-up of celeb judges and some amazing
prizes up for grabs. RELAX AND READ REGULARS
4 Sew Central 5 Your Free Gift
We find out how youve been 11 Essential Kit
From me and the team, enjoy! gearing up for Christmas 24 Fabric Love
8 News 46 Reader Offer
Sarah
All the latest stitchy gossip 47 Spotlight on
Machine Upgrades
48 Giveaways
70 Coming Next Month
Sarah Crosland, Acting Editor
makeittoday.co.uk 3
ce n t
Be inspired I N T E R E ST
FAV E S
ONLINE
Happy 10th birthday to Fine
Charming Stockings
Fabrics of Harrogate! The
traditional dressmaking
emporium specialises in
beautiful fabrics and prides
itself on a personal service. Its Your chance to show
full of the most exquisite
fabrics, wools, linens, cottons us how its done
and silks, as well as Christmas has arrived! Nows the time to parade your glitzy
haberdashery tools and fabric and dance around the sewing machine to your favourite
patterns for all your sewing Imagine waking up on
requirements, and helpful staff festive tunes. Its rewarding to stitch presents for loved ones and
Christmas morning to these
members take the time to surprise them with the gift of handmade. Not only can you be Liberty delights.
ensure you have all the thrifty, you can also create something personalised without blondedesign.
notions required for your worrying someone else will get them the same thing. Wed love blogspot.co.uk
project. finefabricsof to see what youve been making over the festive season,
harrogate.co.uk
whether its a gift or something lovely for yourself. Make sure
you share your creations with us on Facebook, Twitter
or Instagram.
W E H E A RT. . .
Its that season once again, where you
can cosy up in front of the fireplace
with your winter sewing projects laid A simple patchwork stocking
out in front of you. STOFF & STIL has would make a great gift.
released its new inspiring autumn/ blog.basicgrey.com
winter collection just in time filled
Over to you
ON FACEBOOK AND TWITTER,
with ideas, great fabrics and new
patterns for these precious moments.
Whether youre sewing for yourself,
your home or even the little ones,
WE ASKED: WHAT ARE YOUR theres tons of patterns to get your
GO-TO FABRICS FOR WINTER? hands on. Whats more, Scandinavias
number one supplier of fabrics and
I love brightly haberdashery is now available to buy
coloured and in the UK! stoffstil.co.uk
patterned viscose. It
4 makeittoday.co.uk
8 patterns
GLAMOROUS EVENING
LOOKS WITH YOUR
free
Your free
patterns
Tis the season for parties galore, so why not
prep an armoury of outfits that can take you
from drab to fab presto? With New Look
6245 and 6322, youll have the
option to create four statement tops,
plus an array of chic frocks.
makeittoday.co.uk 5
YOUR FREE PATTERNS
NEXT
MONTHS
FREE GIFTS...
GET YOURS ON
21ST DECEMBER 2017
6 makeittoday.co.uk
MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 29_MAKE IT TODAY 03/11/2017 15:06 Page 7
O H J AC K I E !
With supple knit fit and flare
frocks at the top of our wish list, this
dreamy two-way dress pattern from
Victory is truly swoon-some. Closure-
free and quick to make, it features
flattering seams and a high neckline
for easy elegance guaranteed. Stitch
Jackie in a light two-way stretch
jersey, ponte or velour for
a delectable silhouette pleaser:
gorgeous in claret. 10.50,
victorypatterns.com
Make it,
buy it,
Kristiann Boos
love it
Put these on your
list for Santa
C OV E R G I R L S
Make some room on the coffee table,
ladies this stunning collection of
125 years of pioneering fashion
photography demands to be touched!
Puppy Love Vogue: The Covers by Dodie Kazanjian
Give your pooch the gift of crushed velvet and put your best beautifully captures the visual evolution
paw forward this party season! This dapper bow tie is the of a publishing empire, featuring all
perfect way to ensure your best friend looks every bit as stylish manner of celebrated sirens from
Grace Kelly to Cher. 45,
as you do at Christmas. Available in four colours we just love
abramsandchronicle.co.uk
the Purple Pomp. Party Luxe Velvet Dog Bow Tie, 15.50,
notonthehighstreet.com
8 makeittoday.co.uk
Shirt Dress
1940S WRAP DRESS
This firm favourite from
the Sew Over It archives
is a dream for the
demands of holiday
season. Oozing
sophistication and
Wow Bazaar easy glam, with a
Treat yourself to a little handmade happy wrap front bodice, an
time. The Vintage Bazaar returns to The A-line skirt and pretty
Corn Exchange in Devizes, Wiltshire, with its shoulder pleats. Sizes
famed treasure trove of stunning one-off 8-20, 8.50 (PDF),
pieces, plus trims, ribbons and haberdashery 14.50 (paper),
goodies, so grab your fix of bygone sewoverit.co.uk
beautification. Saturday 25th November,
thevintagebazaar.blogspot.com 1940s
Wrap Dress
A N D F I N A L LY
TWO- The inspirational Creative Craft Show
SAV V Y L I N I N G S FOR-ONE returns to the NEC, and as a special
Take good care of your seasonal garb and TICKETS WITH reader offer were offering you the chance
send in the reinforcements! Vlieselines CODE OV74 to buy one, get one free! Dont miss this
F220 Fusible Interlining is lovely and crafting extravaganza of workshops,
lightweight: just what you need to seal the catwalk shows and supplies. Order
deal and make the finishing touches to online and enter code OV74 for your
your festive fashions. F220 Fusible free ticket. 14, 15th-18th March 2018,
Interlining from 3 per metre, ichfevents.co.uk
crafts@stockistenquiries.co.uk
makeittoday.co.uk 9
presents
Fittingly Sew 2
Measure
up
makeittoday.co.uk 11
MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 29_MAKE IT TODAY 03/11/2017 14:51 Page 12
Party
Dresses
Timeless frocks
youll reach for
again and again
Everyone wants to
look their best at
the annual
Christmas party
Jayne and more
importantly
Cordle avoid the
dreaded
dilemma of matching your dress with
a fellow guest! So what better way to
make an entrance in style than with a
handmade pattern thats perfectly
tailored to you. New Look 6322 offers
four different skirt and bodice
variations to choose from: if youre not
a fan of the A-line, you can switch to a
swing; pop on some sleeves or dare to
go bare; plus, get creative with lace to
add interest to the neckline. The subtle
pleating at the waist will also give you
that enviable hourglass shaping
through the hips, whatever design you
choose to stitch. Its simple, classic and
just what you need for your winter soires!
YOUR FREE
PATTERN
WITH FOUR
STUNNING
LOOKS
makeittoday.co.uk 13
YO U R
FREE
Pattern OPTION C
6322
Go sleeveless
with option D
Shape Smart
For those of us not blessed
with Marilyn Monroes
hourglass curves, its still
possible to fake this vintage
look with New Look 6322.
The pattern combines pleats
at the bust to help accentuate
your top half, followed by a
curved waistline with subtle
darts to draw attention to
your waist. Pair with the holy
grail of hemlines the A-line
which is universally
flattering on most body
shapes. Alternatively, for
maximum swish while
dancing, choose variation
B and C.
Keep accessories
and shoes minimal
in style this dress
will speak for itself
FA B R I C
Love Your Lace GET THE LOOK! Bracelet 12, Ben De Lisi, debenhams.com
14
13 makeittoday.co.uk
YO U R
FREE
Pattern
OPTION D
6322 J AY N E S TO P T I P S
Before removing the pins from the
pattern, make sure that all the markings
have been transferred precisely, as these
are angled to give shape to the bodice.
Snip the front facing as close to the
stitching as you can, layering to a point
at the centre front. Under-stitching the
facing will help to keep it down.
Neaten the raw edge down the back of
the bodice and skirt with a zigzag stitch.
Catch the joined bodice and skirt so it
folds towards the bodice, this will help
when putting in the zip.
After stitching down the right side of the
zip, pin the left side at the bodice waist to
make sure it lines up with the right side
before stitching or it may be lopsided.
Dart Dimensions
Darts are a simple way to add dimension to a
garment and will help show off the contours of
your body. Before you start, choose a marking
tool, such as a washable fabric pen, pencil or
tailors chalk successful darts always start
with careful marking! Once the darts have
been sewn, make sure they are crisply finished
with your iron. For best results, press them in
the opposite direction of your body shape.
For vertical darts, such as waist or contour
darts, press them towards the side seam.
Continues overleaf
makeittoday.co.uk 15
YO U R
FREE
Pattern
OPTION A
Variation A
6322
offers up a classic
boatneck design
Sleeve Notes
Capped sleeves are a breeze with variation
A and C, but if youre new to this
technique, patience is key! If your sleeve
is becoming bumpy and uneven, or youve
caught too much fabric, remember that
you can always unpick it and go back to the
start sometimes different fabrics will ease
in better than others. Additionally, if you
find that one row of tacking is not enough
to get the placement that you need, add
in a second row to gain more control.
Stretch
sateen is
great for
creating
figure-hugging finery,
it contains a small
amount of elastic that
will hold the structure
of the dress without
making it uncomfortable
to wear
JAYNE CORDLE,
DESIGNER
why
NOT
try? FLOATING BOUQUET
IN IVORY
THIN STRIPE IN CITRON TRIANGLES IN
MAGENTA
New Look 6322 also works well with knits, so once youve finished
whipping up your celebration garb, why not pick up a soft jersey
from Cloud 9s collection? Choose from an array of prints,
including futuristic florals or bright stripes and triangles.
For stockists, visit hantex.co.uk/cloud9
16 makeittoday.co.uk
MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 29_MAKE IT TODAY 03/11/2017 14:19 Page 17
ase
owc
Party Flair
Sh
Fabric focus
Heather Jacks, brand
ambassador for Simplicity,
on a combination dress
Mixing and matching with
a dress pattern is one of
lifes true pleasures and Cherry Blossoms Cotton
with New Look 6392, youre Sateen, 12.20 per metre,
spoiled for choice in terms thesplendidstitch.co.uk
of both frock design and
fabric combinations. This
five-way party package is
your one-stop essential for
every event, featuring elegant lace overlays,
contrast yoke and sleeves, sweetheart necklines
and a full, pleated skirt, as well as a choice of sash
and sleeve styles. Master dart variations, sheer
stitching, neck and armhole binding, plus stylish
sash technique, as you experiment with organza or
chiffon overlays and contrast sheer yokes. Silk Chiffon Silken
Alternatively, make option D in satin and use the Cascade, 9 per metre,
wrong side of the fabric for the yoke, binding it with sewoverit.co.uk
the right side for understated elegance. Fabulous fit
and flare frocks guaranteed just add heels! 6.95,
visit simplicitynewlook.com
for size details.
GET IT RIGHT:
Contrast Stitching
Have fun with contrasts: Floral Embroidered Cotton
make the skirt from Sateen, 4.99 per metre,
brocade and the bodice minervacrafts.com
from satin, then tie the
look together with a belt
made from both fabrics.
Check nape to waist measurement,
Shantung Sense
as this dress needs to sit at your natural Shantung is a type of
waistline. Tie a ribbon round yourself, dupioni with distinctive
and get a friend to help. slubs in a regular pattern.
Dont fancy binding? Line the bodice To avoid fraying, overlock
by cutting an exact copy in lining, then all edges or stitch the ends
stitch, right sides together, finishing the before washing. Trim the
shoulder seams last. cut edges with pinking
Dont use Guipure lace if youre a shears and finish with an
beginner try a softer, smaller patterned overlocker, zigzag stitch or
lace in polyester which wont add bulk to French seams. When
seams or pleats. starting a new seam, dont
backstitch. Hold both
threads to prevent fabric
being sucked into the
machine plate, and keep
the material taut. Place
patterns are available from pins in the allowances,
pinned parallel to the
all good sewing shops and websites. selvedge. Use a sharp 60/8
Visit simplicitynewlook.com or call or 70/10 needle, a
lightweight thread and a
0161 480 8734 for stockist information. 2-2.5mm stitch length.
18 makeittoday.co.uk
Beginnproejrect
VERY BERRY
Pleated
Skirt
Make an entrance
with a chic number
in a classic hue
The weather may be getting chillier, but thats
no reason to pack away your skirts until the
summertime with boots in one hand and a
leather jacket in the other, they can soon be
transformed into a year-round staple! Why not
get started with this chic design by Amanda
Walker? It combines big and bold inverted
pleats with a yoke waistband thatll hug your
curves in all the right places.
Amanda
Walker
DOWNLOAD THE
PATTERN FROM
makeittoday.co.uk
Continues overleaf
makeittoday.co.uk 19
Beginnproejrect
ESSENTIAL KIT Pleated
Fabric, 1.3m
Coordinating thread Skirt
Concealed zip, 9in
1Download, print and cut
out the pattern from
makeittoday.co.uk. Position
CUTTING GUIDE the pleat guide on the top edge
FRONT YOKE: Cut two on fold of a folded lower skirt rectangle,
BACK YOKE: Cut two on fold then mark each position with a
FRONT AND BACK LOWER small clip and neaten the side
SKIRT: Cut two based on your edges. Repeat for the other
chosen measurements below lower skirt piece.
Small: 68cm x 128cm
2
Medium: 68cm x 131cm Using the guide, fold and pin
Large: 68cm x 133cm four box pleats; the seam
1.5cm seam allowances allowance should be showing on
used throughout both edges beside the outer pleats.
Machine-stitch across the top of
each pleat to secure, then sew the
darts to the two back yoke pieces:
one will become the lining. Match
the side seam on the front yoke to
one of the back yokes, right sides
together, and stitch. Repeat for
the remaining pieces.
GET THE LOOK! Jacket 58, riverisland.com. Top 8.99, Boots 29.99, hm.com
end of the yoke to the gap in the
AMANDA WALKER, side seam. Match the side seams
of the yoke and skirt together, then
DESIGNER around to the opposite end of the
yoke and the open gap in the skirt.
Pin, then stitch together.
20 makeittoday.co.uk
Beginnproejrect
Invest in da
conceale re
zipper befo
tackling tthis
projec
Under
and Over
Under-stitching is a line of
stitches made on the inside of
a garment around a neckline
facing or, as in this project,
the top of a yoke. The seam
allowances of the two sewn
pieces are pressed towards the
yoke or facing, then a stitching
line is made very close to the
seam line on the right side of
the fabric, through both the
facing or yoke and the seam
allowances. This will help it
to roll inside the garment,
ensuring a clean smooth edge.
FA B R I C
makeittoday.co.uk 21
Beginnproejrect
SWEEPING STATEMENT
Vintage
Capelet
Cloak yourself in glory with
timeless outdoor chic
Theres something irresistibly cool about a
cape, uniting fashion icons down the ages
with its simple, sweeping elegance and full,
Amanda flowing lines. With a few adjustments to the
hem length and collar, you can create a
Walker striking silhouette with the minimum of
fabric. Comfortable and feminine, this
capelet will add class to any ensemble with its flattering double-
breasted design, contrast faux fur collar and button detail.
Channel your inner glamour-puss for a look thats totally swish!
22 makeittoday.co.uk
Beginnproejrect
FA B R I C
Tickled Pink
This capelet requires only a
small amount of tweed and
suits larger prints such as
heritage houndstooth.
Try a scrumptious cerise
and black tweed blend in
hot pink and a black
check. 14.90 per metre,
dragonflyfabrics.co.uk
Linton Tweed
why
NOT
Vintage capes require thicker, structured
materials, making them ideal for tweed and
wool blends. Choose a vibrant hot pink with a
try? metallic thread, a purple dogtooth or a twisted
cream and gold yarn for seasonal sparkle.
From 34 per metre, lintondirect.co.uk
makeittoday.co.uk 23
FA B R I C
Winter Elegance
Tis the season to be stylish! If youre counting down the days till
the party season like us, then youre in good hands. When it
comes to dressmaking, its all about going for luxury and picking
those fabrics youve been lusting over all year think silks, velvet
and lace. As well as dressing to impress, you also want to keep
warm and snug during the cold days, so its the perfect time to
embrace knits and chunkier materials.
1 3
5
GET THE LOOK! Dress 55, dorothyperkins.com
24 makeittoday.co.uk
YO U R
FREE
Pattern
Pussy
Bow Top Party season
stitching thats
wrapped up in style!
For an instant shot of feminine glam
that delicately frames your features,
you cant beat a billowy bow a style
Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent
made famous in some of their most
memorable designs. For those of
us angling to add easy luxe to our
seasonal wardrobe, New Look
6245 is the gift that keeps on
giving, thanks to its bow fastening,
gathered neckline and choice of
straight, curved or double-layered
hem, which you can embellish with a
lace trim for extra wow factor. Master
darts, underlays and armhole edging
in soft cotton or a celebratory sateen,
crepe or georgette. Thanks to its
relaxed shaping, its forgiving to all
figures; just pair with a tailored pencil
or jeans, and go chic, sleek, special
and unique with this versatile party
pattern. Whats new, pussy cat?
YOUR FREE
PATTERN
WITH FOUR
GORGEOUS
LOOKS
Continues overleaf
makeittoday.co.uk 25
YO U R
FREE
Pattern
Pleasing Pleats
To make the distinct centre pleats in the front
and back, on the inside, bring the broken lines
together and stitch. Press the pleat flat,
bringing the stitching to the centre. To make
the others, on the inside, bring the broken
lines together and sew, then press the pleats
towards the centre and tack the upper edge.
Stay-stitch the front and back neck edges.
OPTION D
With right sides together, sew the front to the
back at the side seams. For view Cs pleats on
6245
the front and back underlay, on the inside,
bring the broken lines together and sew.
Press the pleats from the centre and tack the
top. Stay-stitch the front and back neck edges.
FA B R I C
GET THE LOOK! Purple Top: Skirt 24.99, Bag 19.99, both from tkmaxx.com. Yellow Top: Jeans 24.99, tkmaxx.com. Bracelet from a selection at debenhams.com
Chaffinch Bough Cotton
Lawn Old Gold
Create dynamic details with this
magnificent oriental cotton print.
Burnished coral blooms cluster around
electric blue and turquoise birdies,
peppered with soft flecks of peach,
porcelain and ochre. 15 per metre,
fabricgodmother.co.uk
Lace Lessons
To create the lace trim in option B, make sure
you have pressed up the hem allowance on the
lower edge. To form the narrow hem, tuck
under the raw edge to meet the crease. Press,
then stitch the hem in place. Then, on the
outside, lap the hemmed edge of the front and
back, 1cm over the edge of the lace, turning
Sarah under and lapping the ends of the lace at one
side seam. Sew over the pressed hem
Oecken stitching, making sure to catch the lace on
the underside. Slip-stitch the ends of the lace
together to finish.
26 makeittoday.co.uk
YO U R
FREE
Pattern
OPTION A
Get The Edge
6245
For a neat armhole, first open out one edge of
single-fold bias tape. With right sides together,
pin to the armhole with the crease 1cm from
the raw edge. Stitch using a 1cm allowance,
then trim and clip the curved allowance.
Under-stitch, then turn the tape to the inside
and press. Tack closer to the inner edge, then
top-stitch. Press under 1cm on the ends of the
front and back facings, then sew. Press under
1cm along the notch-free edge. With right
sides together, pin the facings to the
neck edge front and back, forming a
casing. Stitch, then layer the seams.
Under-stitch the facing, then press to
the inside. Tack, then top-stitch.
J AY N E S
TO P T I P S
Mark the centre front and
back before removing the
pattern, as this forms part
of the centre front pleat.
Remember to transfer the
buttonhole marking, and
make the buttonhole for
the drawstring before
adding the front facing.
Try not to stretch the bias
tape when attaching it to
the armhole, or else it will
FA B R I C create a wrinkled edge.
Finishing Touches
For your neck and strap, stitch the ends of the drawstring
and tie sections. Fold the drawstring and tie in half,
lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch using a 1cm seam
allowance, leaving an opening for turning, then trim the
seam and corners. Turn the drawstring right side out, then
press. Slip-stitch the opening edges together. For view A or
B, on the outside, you then insert the drawstring through
the casing, starting and ending at the buttonhole opening
at the front. For view C or D, insert through the casing,
but start at the right shoulder opening.
28 makeittoday.co.uk
*p029 CHRISTMAS feature_MAKE IT TODAY 03/11/2017 14:43 Page 29
PR
O
M
OT
IO
N
STITCH X STITCH
Stitch X Stitch offer a selection of sewing
machines, overlockers and haberdashery
supplies. They are also currently the sole
UK stockist of Screw B Do, a miniature
two-piece screwdriver set that's perfect for
removing the plate from your sewing
SEW HOT
machine and changing needles.
SCREEN SENSATION Sew Hot has Sew many great gift
For more information please visit
Create Something Sensational With ideas perfect for giving, or to add
stitchxstitch.co.uk
Screen Sensation! to your personal list! We have
or call 01449 257070
Screen Sensation can be used for something for everyone; from pins,
various applications, from papercraft, magnets, and gift cards to tuck
fabric art and dressmaking, to home into a stocking, to full quilt kits
dcor and even jewellery making! from your favourite designers!
You'll be amazed at just what you www.sewhot.co.uk
Christmas
can create! Available now with
a 3 for 2 offer on inks! at
crafting.co.uk
Wish List
We've got Christmas wrapped up with this handpicked
selection of goodies to add to your wishlist!
JANOME
SOFT BYTE The DKS30 machine has all the features
Fittingly Sew 2 is the perfect product if to make sewing simple & enjoyable. Fully SEW LA DI DA
you are thinking about making your computerised with a host a great features Introducing the brand new Tales
own patterns! The programme includes including Janomes new easy set bobbin Of Dorset collection by Sew La Di
a set of basic sloper patterns and system this machine ticks all the buttons. Da. This beautiful and nostalgic
templates as a starting point for your Theres even a special key which enables cut and sew kit will make a playful
original creations. You can also trace some stitches to be elongated up to 5 girls' dress. Included in the kit is
pattern pieces from background images times normal without losing stitch lining fabric, a zip and instruction
of alternative garments to build your density! From just 479. booklet. A perfect gift idea for
own pattern! Available at Find your local retailer family and friends! Available now
softbyte.co.uk janome.co.uk/retailer-search/ at www.sewladidavintage.com
easy-to-enter
FIVE Be our next...
categories
Everyday
Home-made tops,
skirts and gowns
which fit like a
glove, featuring a
high level of
comfort and ease
of wear.
New! Occasion
Sew-special
selections and
posh frocks that
showcase the
finest designs for
parties, weddings
and fancy events.
Vintage
Go back to the
future with retro
makes in a choice of
genre and style for Its time to strut your stitchy stuff, as we proudly announce the
bygone beauty. launch of our second Dressmaker of the Year. Following the
massive success of our first event, which inspired over 1, 200
entries, its your turn to show us what youre made of, with five
categories and all kinds of couture possibilities at your fingertips.
Upcycling Last year, we were amazed at how positively the sewing
community responded to the task of sharing their
Bringing new life to creations with the world, says Sew Magazine editor Free
existing items with
inventive touches,
Jennifer Ward. Whether its a wedding dress or a Simplicity
denim onesie, the skys the limit! Says reigning
this is your chance
champ Portia Lawrie, Youll be surprised how pattern for
to show us all your
customised makes. awesome people think it is! every reader
Childrens wear Go
Show us your
favourite mini FOR
it!
make for your
little loved ones,
from junior Candice Kirk polka Ying Qin baby Lorna Richardson pink
jackets to petite dot dress vintage dress kiddies jacket ready to wear
pinafores!
VISIT MAKEITTODAY.CO.UK/
DRESSMAKEROFTHEYEAR MAKEITTODAY.CO.UK/DRESSMAKEROFTHEYEAR
30 makeittoday.co.uk
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
Tilly Walnes Miss Libby Rose Stuart Hillard Portia Lawrie Vicky Gill
Super-talented designer, Popular sewing star Miss Beloved former Sewing Our first Dressmaker of Showstopping queen of
seamstress and founder Libby Rose believes in the Bee sensation, nimble- the Year, refashion queen the sequins, Strictlys
of pattern house Tilly therapeutic benefits of fingered Stuart is a and blogger supreme, head costume designer
and the Buttons will be stitching, and she travels columnist, author and Portias know-how and and commercial
imparting her creative the UK, teaching and TV personality with a competition insights seamstress will certainly
nous, flair and technical spreading the word in passion for textiles and make her a true asset add sparkle to our
wisdom to our panel. her Pink Sewing Bus. crafting innovation. to our judging panel. judging dream team.
Win!
super-excited for this one: be
bold, be daring, be unique!
STUART HILLARD
ry
CategoE R
enter
W IN N
P R IZ E
3,500 +
HOW TO
SEWING GOODIES!
makeittoday.co.uk 31
MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 29_MAKE IT TODAY 03/11/2017 14:52 Page 32
At L&C Fabrics -
We are a family run business with a wide range of fabrics
for quilting, dressmaking, sewing, homewares and crafts.
Fabrics for Patchwork, Dress making, Upholstery
Waddings, Haberdashery, Janome sewing machines,
Service and repair sewing machines,
Patchwork Classes, Workshop, Gift vouchers.
NEW SHOP:
Unit 2, Albion Street, Hull HU1 3TE
Tel: 01482 325 072
Opening Hours: Tuesday-Friday, 10am-3:45pm, Saturday, 10am-3pm
217-219 Grimsby Road, Cleethorpes DN35 7HB
Tel: 01472 600874
Opening Hours: Monday-Saturday, 9.30am-4pm
Email: lcfabrics@live.co.uk
www.lcfabrics.co.uk
FREE CAR PARKING!
FA B R I C It may be chilly outside, but that doesnt
mean you cant invigorate your creative
palette with juicy pops of saturated
colour. This month, were cuddling up
with some of the luscious prints in the
Art Gallery Fabrics Fusions collection.
Embellish your winter wear with a
medley of vibrant infusionsfrom AGF
with AGF Fusions designers, as we explore the eclecticism
and romance of the Spices and
Indulge in a Woodlands ranges. Many of these
delectable prints are available in knit
little seasonal and rayon as well as premium cotton,
so you can practise new skills whilst
spice this creating gorgeously supple pieces that
flatter your natural shape as well as
autumn your personality. Turn over for our pick
of the perfect designs to help you spice
up your life!
Art Gallery Fabrics Fusions Spices Paparounes
Continues overleaf
makeittoday.co.uk 33
Fabric Spices Selection
Top kniet
wardrobe with the Impressions Spices
print by Pat Bravo. No matter what
choic Paparounes Spices by Katarina Roccella
you make, these luscious prints will
take your projects to the next level!
R
ID E A L F O
Vintayglee
Thrive Spices by Bonnie Christine St Impressions Spices by Pat Bravo Op Art Spices by Pat Bravo
Maxi Dress
Use premium cotton
for enticing natural drape
in longer gowns
Buck Forest Woodlands by Bonnie Christine Ink Outburst Woodlands by Sharon Holland
WOODLANDS FUSIONS:
This collection is filled with the Fitted Sheath
Play with relaxed knits
essence of romance, painterly for flattering shaping in
flowers, and classic hues that shorter pieces
create a timeless aesthetic.
The enchanting prints in this
range can easily transition
from casual to dressy, while
having the versatility to be
worn throughout the seasons.
For a classy yet bold look, try
making a stylish top in the
Row by Row Woodlands print
by Bonnie Christine. If fanciful
florals steal your heart, a flowy Bomber Jacket
Joie de Clair Woodlands by AGF Studio dress in Paradis Woodlands by Explore the soft ranges
Bari J. is sure to turn heads! of rayon for a supple
shaped jacket
Order Form
Yes! I would like to subscribe to Make It Today, Dressmaker Magazine
MIT29
Each Issue
UKDD 19.40 every 3 issues (Please complete section 1)
Cheque/CC UK 67.10/ Eur/Eire 107.00/ROW 117.00 - 10 issues
I would like to purchase a gift subscription using this offer
Includes:
Please return to: MIT Rockwood House Perrymount
FREE cover gifts worth
Road, Haywards Heath, West Sussex RH163TW over 120 across the year
SUBSCRIBER DETAILS, please complete in BLOCK CAPITALS EXPERT tips and advice H
from industry experts
Title Forename Surname
Address
Postcode
Daytime No. Mobile No. FABRIC LOVE as we
Email
look at this months
THIS IS A GIFT SUBSCRIPTION/MY RECIPIENT DETAILS ARE; please complete in BLOCK CAPITALS
fabric trends
Title
Address
Forename Surname
SAVE over 15 off the
Postcode
Daytime No. Mobile No.
cover price!
Email
3
Craft Store discounts
Please charge my Visa Mastercard Amex Switch/Maestro
*This is a UK only Direct Debit offer. Gift is only available to UK subscribers. Existing subscribers can renew using this RENEW USING CODE MIT29
offer. Your subscription will begin with the next available issue. Subscriptions are for a 12 month period including all gift
subscriptions. Your free gift will be dispatched within 28 days of your payment being received (sent separately from the TO R E N E W V I S I T
magazine). If your subscription is a gift, the gift and gift card will be sent to the donor. You can also subscribe via cheque
or credit card. In the event of a gift being faulty or damaged, please contact us within 28 days of receiving the gift. This
offer is subject to availability (alternative gift may be supplied). This is a limited offer and may be withdrawn at any time.
Please note digital subscriptions will not include subscription gifts, or covermounted gifts. Aceville Publications Ltd and
makeittoday.co.uk/subscribe
Make It Today, Dressmaker Magazine may wish to contact you regarding your subscription.
H AV E YO U R S U B S C R I B E R D E TA I L S TO H A N D
H H
H H
OK 2M
BO OF
& WO
RI C OD
LAN
F FA B DS
H
O FA B
3M
H
RIC
FAT QUA RTER S & ACC ESSO RIES
Worth
over
40! H
2M
X OF
BO
B R IC & PA
RIS
O F FA IAN
2M FA
H
BR
IC
Delighted to be supporting
Sh
Skirt
owc
ase
Fabric focus
Alert
Heather Jacks, brand
ambassador for Simplicity,
on party pencil fabric Pink and Gold Brocade,
What turns an 11.20 per metre,
ordinary garment into thesplendidstitch.co.uk
something special?
Take a look at this
simple pencil skirt and
imagine it made in
brocade or satin
already its beginning
to get a special
occasion feel about it.
Fabric choice is paramount when thinking
about creating glamorous party wear. Dont be
afraid to experiment with the likes of sequins; Floral Denim, 8 per metre,
some can be machined straight stitchfabrics.co.uk
over, so always check. Just
remember that you might have to
clear the seam allowances first.
For a subtle look, try using contrast
threads when topstitching, or
incorporate vibrant pocket facings
to make a statement. 8.95,
visit simplicitynewlook.com
for size details.
makeittoday.co.uk 39
Tweed Cap Tilly Headscarf Silky Kimono
Bonus Projects
For You
Even more DIY dressmaking
inspiration at makeittoday.co.uk
Your chance to expand your stitching repertoire with an
assortment of quick and easy handmade fashion projects
Liberty Top
Plus....
Tartan wrap project for
autumn jaunts
Flattering vintage nightie
with lace trim
Wedding veil for the perfect
finishing touch
Craft the perfect bodice
40 makeittoday.co.uk
Par
ty S
pecia
l
Prinetty
Pleats
Want to be fashion-
fabulous with folds?
We show you how easy
it is to get groovy, baby
WORDS BY JANEY GOULDING
makeittoday.co.uk 41
42 makeittoday.co.uk
makeittoday.co.uk 43
Poppy Top
Relaxed, fuss-free fit with modern detailing
ESSENTIALS We know this time of year is all about sensible layers and
Main cotton print, 2.2m x 115cm snazzy party gear, but theres still a lot to be said for those
Coordinating thread P R O J EC T
pretty pieces you can wear all year round. This easy, closure-
DESIGNER free tank is full of flattering casual accents, including a square
CUTTING GUIDE
TANK FRONT: Cut one on fold
Theresa neckline and ruffled cap sleeves, and is the perfect chance to
TANK BACK: Cut one on fold Gonzalez practise your box pleat and yoke skills feminine and practical
in cotton lawn, especially if you go for a playful polka dot,
FRONT FACING: Cut one on fold
ditsy floral or seasonal botanical print.
SLEEVE: Cut two on fold
YOKE BACK: Cut two on fold
why not
All seam allowances 1.5 cm,
unless otherwise stated Poppy top
1 4 try?
Bottom hem allowance 3cm Download and cut out Fold one sleeve piece in
the pattern from half, wrong sides together,
makeittoday.co.uk. Fold the aligning the short ends. Stitch
tank back in half lengthwise, the solid pleat line to form a
wrong sides together, then box pleat. With the right side
sew along the solid pleat lines. uppermost, press the pleat
With right side uppermost, down, matching the centre
press the pleat, matching the fold to the seam line. Tack
centre fold to the seam line. the pleat at the top and
Tack the pleat along the top bottom raw edges, 5mm
raw edge, 5mm in. from the edge.
44 makeittoday.co.uk
GREAT FO R B EG I N N E R S FRO M THER ESA GON Z A L EZ , S UN DAY S EWS
FA B R I C
White With
Red Spot
For a light feel that best
showcases the loose
shaping, you cant go wrong
with a simple polka dot print
such as this one by Minerva
Crafts. 6.99 per metre,
minervacrafts.com
D I S C OV E R
MORE MAKES
2016 by Nicole Hill Gerulat
makeittoday.co.uk 45
CLAIM YOUR FREE FABRIC . CLAIM YOUR FREE FABRIC . CLAIM YOUR FREE FABRIC . CLAIM YOUR FREE FABRIC
TOTAL
EXPIRY DATE SECURITY NUMBER (on back of card)
Terms and conditions and your data protection preferences: *UK postage costs 3.99. Only 1 free fabric per customer. Orders must be received by 29th December 2017. Postal orders must be submitted with a completed coupon and a cheque or postal order for the correct
amount to cover postage. Not to be used in conjunction with any other offer. Offer subject to availability. While stocks last, we reserve the right to send an alternative fabric. We can only provide refunds for damaged or faulty goods. Open to UK residents only. Please
allow 28 days for delivery. If paying by cheque, delivery will be delayed until cheque is cleared. By completing this form you agree to be contacted by Aceville Publications Ltd and sister companies in line with our privacy policy, see aceville.com/privacy-policy/dressmaker
499
For the dreamers Make an investment Great all-rounder
1. INNOV-IS M280D 2. JANOME 6700P 3. SINGER C440 LEGACY
Discover the magical world of advanced A fabulous new model for anyone looking to Take your creativity to new heights with the
sewing and embroidery featuring Disney upgrade, the Janome 6700P is designed to Singer Legacy C440. Boasting a wonderful
characters. The Brother Innov-is M280D is perform with speed, strength and stability for range of professional yet easy-to-use features,
the ideal machine for embellishing your faster results. With speeds of 1,200 stitches per including 200 built-in stitch patterns, theres
dressmaking and embroidery projects with minute, the 6700P is the fastest top-loading no doubting this stylish machines features.
that dreamy Disney touch. Featuring 125 bobbin machine in the industry. It has an Simply select your desired stitch options on
built-in embroidery designs including 45 abundance of features, including the AcuFeed the large LCD touch screen, and LED lights
characters plus sewing stitches and fonts, system, which ensures your sewing is even, will illuminate your sewing area for precision.
this machine helps to make all your smooth and precise on all types of fabric. The extra-large working area also makes it
creative project wishes come true. Its sure to impress even the most skilled easy to stitch those larger dressmaking
brothersewing.co.uk stitcher. janome.co.uk projects. singermachines.co.uk
makeittoday.co.uk 47
4 ROSE GOLD
SCISSOR SETS
This beautiful gift set in luxurious rose gold is sure
to delight anyone who loves to sew. It consists of
dressmaking shears and embroidery stork scissors,
along with a medium-sized thimble, ideal for fabric
cutting, thread trimming and more.
Rose Gold Milward Scissor Set, worth 34.50 each.
For stockist information, email
15 Pairs of Tickets
An inspirational haven for dressmakers and stitching
enthusiasts alike, The Creative Craft Show Birmingham offers
the very latest supplies and innovations from the crafting
world, as well as opportunities to glean advice from the
industrys top experts. Visitors will also have full access to
the accompanying Sewing for Pleasure and Fashion &
Embroidery shows.
15 Pairs of Tickets to The Creative Craft Show Birmingham, NEC
(15th-18th March 2018), worth 14 each, ichfevents.co.uk
groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk
TURN TO
P55 TO
FIND OUT
MORE!
10 T H E SAV V Y
S E A M ST R E S S
B O O KS
Transform your favourite
garments, one small detail at a
time, with help from The Savvy
Seamstress by Nicole Mallalieu.
With step-by-step instructions,
clear illustrations, and how-to
Dressmaking Course and
Pattern Bundle
Trousers can often seem like one great leap for dressmakers, but with Sew
Over Its online class, we guarantee itll feel more like a small step!
One lucky winner will learn how to make two different trouser variations,
plus receive five PDF patterns of their choosing.
One Online Place on The Ultimate Guide to Sewing and Fitting Trousers
plus a Five Pattern Bundle, total prize worth 87, sewoverit.co.uk
48 makeittoday.co.uk
6
three dress options with this fit and
flare essential, featuring mixed
sleeve and bodice variations, plus a
V-neckline, empire seam and
T I L DA princess seams for a flattering fit.
C OT TAG E B U N D L E S
Inspired by cosy antique quilts, Tildas new Cottage collection
features 20 beautiful designs including oversized floral prints, plus
Special Deal!
ditsy blooms in Christmassy tones. Available by the metre, in fat Get Simplicity 8258 and Simplicity 2247 Amazing Fit patterns for
just 4.50 (RRP 8.95), plus 85p P&P, from simplicitynewlook.
quarters and in various fabric bundles, the fabrics are 100% com and quote codes MAKE8258 and MAKE2247 respectively.
cotton and can be paired with a beautifully coordinated set of buttons. Offer valid 16th November to 20th December. Readers receive
Six Tilda Cottage Fabric and Button Bundles, worth 24 each. For stockists, an extra discount between 16th-28th November.
email groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk
More Enter
than 1,300 by 21st
worth of December
prizes 2017
5 MAKERS
GUIDE
BOOK SETS
Spice up your stitching skills with the
ultimate makers guide duo. Covering
embroidery and patchwork and quilting
respectively, each book contains 15 beautiful
step-by-step projects, designed for crafters at
all levels. Youll find the iconic log cabin and
classic Amish designs, right through to a
Maven Patterns Bundle
Maven Patterns are delighted to announce theyve
launched a brand-new paper pattern range, and one
lucky Dressmaker reader can get their hands on all
bargello purse and Chinese-inspired motifs five of these fabulous printed patterns. Each one is
for adorning a denim jacket. presented in a reusable wallet with a pattern and
Five Sets of Embroidery: A Makers Guide and comprehensive instruction booklet inside.
Patchwork & Quilting: A Makers Guide, worth One Maven Pattern Bundle with Screen-Printed Bag,
16.95 each, thamesandhudson.com worth 98, mavenpatterns.co.uk
makeittoday.co.uk 49
Tweed
Jacket
Emulate an iconic
garment that never
grows old
Flash back to the
swinging sixties
when mini dresses
and sophisticated
Amanda coordinated suits were
Walker all the range think
Jackie Kennedy, Coco
Chanel and all the
fashion icons that made the era so
iconic. Fifty years on, Amanda Walker
has created a contemporary A-line
jacket that celebrates this classic style.
The tweed fabric has a soft casual feel
to it and is loosely woven, making it
relatively easy to stitch; however, it does
fray so take care with the handling.
DOWNLOAD THE
PATTERN FROM
makeittoday.co.uk
makeittoday.co.uk 51
Confident
beginner Buttons can really make or
break the look of a finished
ESSENTIAL KIT garment. You dont want
Fabric, 1.5m x 150cm to distract away from the
Contrasting fabric
garment, but you also
Fusible interfacing,
medium weight 50cm want to make a statement try pearl
Coordinating thread or silver and gold
Buttons, three
AMANDA WALKER, DESIGNER
CUTTING GUIDE
FRONT JACKET: Cut one pair Tweed joined facing over the
BACK JACKET: Cut on fold
FRONT FACING: Cut one pair Jacket attached collar, matching the
notches and centre front
in fabric and one in
fusible interfacing 1Download and cut out the
pattern from makeit
today.co.uk. Stitch the darts
edges. Sew around the neck,
sandwiching the collar inside.
Clip around the edge and
BACK NECK FACING: Cut one
only in contrasting fabric into the front two jacket press. Position the armhole
sections from the sides of edge of the facing to the top
COLLAR: Cut one pair in fabric the darts to the points. of the armhole in the jacket,
and one in fusible interfacing Press upwards towards pin and stitch.
SLEEVE: Cut one pair the shoulders and
neaten down the side
edges. Fuse the
interfacing to the front
4 Match the side seams,
pin, stitch and press
open. Neaten the long edges
facings and one of the of the sleeves. Sew a row of
collars. Stitch right gathering stitches around
sides together, leaving the head of the sleeves,
the neck edge open. starting from the front notch
Trim the bulk from the and finishing at the back.
curved edges, then Pin the underarm sleeve
turn to the right side, seams, right sides together,
tease out the seams then press open and turn
and press. the sleeves out.
ST I TC H SAV V Y
The jacket fabric has a check print, which will need
matching when the pieces are cut out. Lay the front and
back alongside each other, so you can be sure the hems
are running along the same check line. Position the centre
back of the collar and centre back of the jacket along the
same design line and try to continue the check along the
front opening.
52 makeittoday.co.uk
Confident
beginner
FA B R I C
Lady McElroy
Vermont Check
Reminiscent of the iconic
Chanel style, this classic
tweed print is the best choice
for jackets, lightweight skirts
and coats. Itll be sure to
keep you warm and stylish
through the colder months.
23.90 per metre,
sherwoodsfabrics.co.uk
GET THE LOOK! Vest top 8.99, hm.com. Necklace 10, accessorize.com. Skirt 24.90, uniqlo.com
makeittoday.co.uk 53
MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 29_MAKE IT TODAY 03/11/2017 15:37 Page 54
rksh
ops
Master the art of decorative
stitching with this months
workshop trio Youve sewn the final stitch and your
garment is hanging up ready for its
debut but, like any keen dressmaker,
your brain is still buzzing with creative
ideas to help take your garb to the next
level... Could I add in an appliqu
pocket or two? Maybe an embroidered
collar is just what I need! Fortunately,
theres a whole world of techniques you
can dive in and try out, and with help
at hand, your handmade wardrobe
can soon be elevated to a rail of
couture classics. Pop on a freehand
machine foot and discover the joy of
drawing with your needle; or once
youve cracked the basics at a class,
settle down in front of the television
and grab your hoop for a spot of
slow-stitching. Youll soon have an
eye for a final flourish!
makeittoday.co.uk 55
Beginnproejrect
COMFY IN COTTON
Dressing Gown
Glam up your mornings with our pretty
no-pattern kimono
ESSENTIAL KIT
Cotton fabric, 1.5m Make getting out of bed something to look forward to,
Contrast bias binding, 5m by stitching Amanda Walkers lovely wrap for yourself.
Coordinating thread Sewn from cotton lawn in a delicate floral print, the
edges and sleeve bands are finished off with pink bias
CUTTING GUIDE
Amanda binding for an eye-catching contrast. Slip it on and
BACK: Cut one 31cm x 1m rectangle on fold Walker enjoy a lazy Sunday lounging around the house:
FRONT: Cut two 35cm x 1m rectangles you can always get dressed later!
FRONT AND BACK NECK BAND: Cut two
13cm x 1.13m strips
SLEEVES: Cut two 30cm x 60cm rectangles
SLEEVE BANDS: Cut two 13cm x 60cm strips
BELT TIE: Cut one 13cm x 1.6m strip stitch, then press the seams that the bias binding is underarm sleeve corners and
BELT CARRIERS: Cut two 2cm x 9cm strips back. Press up 1cm at the sandwiched between the two secure. Neaten the side edges
1.5cm seam allowances used throughout, base of the two front pieces, layers of the end of the band. of the front and back and
except for the front and back neck band then another 3cm, to make Turn out to the right side, tease across the head of the sleeves.
and sleeve bands, where 1cm is used. the hem. out the corner and press. Open out the front and back,
right side towards you. Mark
56 makeittoday.co.uk
Beginnproejrect
FA B R I C
NO-PATTERN
make
makeittoday.co.uk 57
S e w i n g
D e t e c t i v e
The inside scoop on sewing
secrets with Lorna Knight,
our dressmaking expert
ASK THE
DETECTIVE
Fix your dressm !
Following an impulse purchase machine bugb
aking dilemmas
,
of sequinned fabric, Ive realised troubles, and m ears, tailoring
ore!
I dont know how to sew with it! Sewing Detecti Write to Lorna at
ve,
Do I need a special needle? Dressmaker, 1 Make It Today
Phoe
Hawkins Road, nix Court,
MEGAN, BRIDGEND Colchester,
CO2 8JY or em
You may find it helps to fit a different needle, ail
but not one that stitches through sequins.
jane.goulding@
Instead, consider the backing fabric onto aceville.co.uk
which the sequins are sewn as this is the layer
the needle needs to penetrate; a stretch,
microtex or universal needle is best. Although
it is time-consuming, the best approach is to
unpick the sequins from the seam allowance Many party dress patterns
completely before stitching the seam. This require linings, but those Ive
means that if you fit a zipper foot to your
sewing machine, youll be able to sew along I am trying to apply a fancy stitch used are noisy when I walk!
the seam line without any bits getting in the with metallic threads to a dress, Any suggestions?
way. The finished seam will have no bulk, as but it keeps breaking. What am CLARA, HORNCHURCH
the allowances will be free from sequins.
If you find a few gaps on the surface at the
I doing wrong? Polyester lining is quite stiff and so it
makes a crinkly sound when it moves,
join, you can fill these by hand-sewing some ALEXIS, DURHAM which I appreciate can be embarrassing
of the spare sequins you removed at the start. This problem is easily fixed with the right when you walk. An acetate lining is heavier
choice of needle; a metallic one has an and drapes well, so it might be a good
elongated eye to prevent sensitive metallic alternative, especially under soft, floaty
threads from shredding or snapping. Also, garments. Its a little more expensive, but
make sure the needle is big enough to create it feels nicer next to the skin. For a luxury
a large enough hole in the fabric for the thread lining, choose silk. A very light habotai or
to follow it through; if the needle is too fine, a sumptuous charmeuse are the perfect
the metallic thread will struggle to slide way to finish off a special garment such
through the material. Once you have an as a woollen jacket or a silk dress. They
appropriate needle in place, try out a few are great in the winter, too, as silk is
decorative stitches; you might find some work super-cosy. If youre planning a stretchy,
better than others. If you have a smartphone, figure-hugging dress this Christmas, use
Lauren Guthrie
its also worth getting the Schmetz app; this a stretch lining so it will move in the same
comprehensive reference means you have way as the outer layer. Dig a bit deeper
terrific needle advice at your fingertips while when searching your local fabric store
youre out shopping for new fabrics. and you should be able to find these
itunes.apple.com/us/app/schmetz alternative linings.
58 makeittoday.co.uk
makeittoday.co.uk 59
B l
Little es a c k
Dress Stitching advice from Heather Jacks,
Accenr tbuuastte Iconic style
you
Four bodice
styles
NEW LOOK 6429
SIZES 10-22, 6.95
This patterns dynamic cut-out
neckline with bust-enhancing
peephole style is just one of the
party patterns available with
New Look 6429, offering a choice
of four fab frocks. As well as the sleeveless halter
style, you can play with cap sleeves and an
optional sheer or lace insert.
patterns are available from all good sewing shops and websites.
60 makeittoday.co.uk
ST I TC H I N G E S S E N T I A L S
glam
sew over it without removing finish works especially well.
4
the sequins from the seam There are many types of
NEW LOOK 6723 allowance. These fabrics may tulle netting available,
SIZES 8-18, 6.95 come in different widths, so ranging from a soft, stretchy
Fashion your own homage to check pattern layout before power net to the rigid type used
the stars with this fit and flare you buy. to give structure under heavy
frock pattern. Featuring princess
seams, an A-line skirt, mixed
sleeve lengths, plus boatneck
2 With certain brocades,
satin and velvet, you will be
working with nap, so bear this
fabrics. When buying for
Simplicity 8330, consider the
effect that you desire and
and sweetheart necklines, this in mind with layout to ensure choose accordingly.
5
Hepburn classic is ideal in you dont produce a harlequin The closer the fit of the dress,
taffeta, shantung and crpe effect when the garment is the more important it is that
de chine. You can even make made up. the fit is accurate to your body
a clutch!
Youll find that hemming by
hand will produce the best
3 When hemming sequinned
fabrics, its a good idea to
finish the bottom with bias tape.
measurement. Be sure to make a
toile first, using either calico or a
cheap curtain lining, as it will
results; take care not to crush This will secure the sequins and save a lot of frustration later.
when ironing.
Make the belt wider for a more
dramatic effect; just remember
the belt loops need to be
About our expert...
longer to accommodate the After winning the Great British Sewing Bee in 2014, lifelong stitcher
extra fabric. Heather is passionate about sharing her knowledge, giving regular
lectures and workshops nationwide and setting up the Go Sew
Use a handmade chain-stitch project to teach children to sew. As well as designing a range of
for the belt loops so they are fabrics for the Craft Cotton Company, she loves to accurately
neater and stronger. interpret patterns to create beautifully crafted garments.
ESSENTIAL KIT
in heritage herringbone! DESIGNER
Corinne
Wool tweed fabric, 0.5m
Cotton lining fabric, 0.5m Luxury fashion isnt just a thing to covet through department Bradd
Wadding, 0.5m store windows its a lifestyle choice thats well within your grasp,
Coordinating thread as dressmaking introduces you to a host of classic accessories
Leather, upholstery weight, you can make for yourself. Corinnes homage to the Parisian handbag has been
11cm x 45cm reinvented in celebration of one of the silver screens all-time style goddesses,
Thick cord, 1m Grace Kelly. Styled with its distinctive trapezium shape, this exclusive project is a
Magnetic bag clasp chance to practise your lining and leather-sewing skills, enabling you to stroll down
Snap fasteners the boulevards with your very own quintessential Kelly creation.
GET THE LOOK! Dress 19.99, tkmaxx.com. Necklace from a selection at Wallis in debenhams.com
Fold the corners so the side side of the flap position.
why
NOT
try?
Gtermann Marrakesch
Add a touch of restrained Moroccan artistry to your Kelly lining in softest
hues of dusky rose, navy and chai. This assortment of ornamental floral,
pink star and pretty paisley offers the perfect complement to a timeless
fashion accessory. gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk
62 makeittoday.co.uk
FA B R I C
Wool Suiting
Herringbone Grey
Timeless elegance is
assured with this lightweight
100% wool. Keep those
seasonal tones neutral and
classic with a herringbone
weave in soft pewter the
perfect complement to rich
tan leather. 28 per metre,
trurofabrics.com
SHOPPING
BASKET
Nunn Tree of
Life Bag Charm
Finish off your Parisian satchel with
a charming antique-style charm,
such as this embossed Nunn
Design disc with its traditional DOWNLOAD THE
arboreal detail. 3.97,
beadsdirect.co.uk
TEMPLATE FROM
makeittoday.co.uk
makeittoday.co.uk 63
Beginnproejrect
EASY EVERY-DAY STYLE
Winter Wrap
This no-pattern make is just what you
need when theres a nip in the air
2 Choose the side of tweed sewing the triangles at each only, and others can be
you prefer and top stitch end through both layers of hand-washed with a
around the scarf 2mm from tweed to make loops. Thread suitable detergent.
the edge, folding in the raw the point of the scarf through
edges of the gap and closing the loops to wear.
L E AT H E R P O I N T E R S
Choose leather with a thickness of 1.5mm/2mm
so that it does not warp your sewing needle
64 makeittoday.co.uk
Beginnproejrect
FA B R I C
NO-PATTERN
make
Twist
Take a stroll in the autumn
sunshine wearing this
Donegal tweed in a classy
herringbone pattern, 30
per metre, fabworks.co.uk
GET THE LOOK! Dress, 39 from a selection at esprit.co.uk
makeittoday.co.uk 65
Confident
beginner
SEASON MUST-SEW
Raglan
Sleeved Coat
Stitch this cosy throw-on and you wont know
what you did without it!
Thanks to our talented designer Amanda Walker,
coat-making just got even easier. If youve steered
clear of stitching jackets for your wardrobe in the
past, this garment is sure to twist your arm. The
classic shape is easy to stitch and can be made up
Amanda with fabrics that dont fray, such as boiled wool,
Walker which avoids the need to finish seams.
66 makeittoday.co.uk
Confident
beginner
ESSENTIAL KIT
Wool fabric, 1.5m x 2.5m
Medium-weight fusible interfacing, 1m FA B R I C
Buttons, three
Coordinating thread
Raglan shoulder pads
CUTTING GUIDE
BACK COAT: Cut one on fold
FRONT COAT: Cut one pair
FRONT SLEEVE: Cut one pair
BACK SLEEVE: Cut one pair
FRONT FACING: Cut one pair in fabric and
another from fusible interfacing
BACK NECK FACING: Cut one on fold and
another from fusible interfacing
POCKET: Cut one pair on bias of fabric
and one pair of pocket flaps in Check Mate
fusible interfacing We love the pinky tone in
this chic 100% wool tweed:
1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, why not rotate the checks
unless otherwise specified of the pockets for added
interest? 16.95 per metre,
stonefabrics.co.uk
Overlock or zigzag
stitch to neaten the
edges of the dress,
where instructed
AMANDA WALKER,
DESIGNER
makeittoday.co.uk 67
*p068-069 MAKE IT TODAY CLASSIFIEDS_MAKE IT TODAY 03/11/2017 14:20 Page 68
Make it
THE ESSENTIAL AREA DIRECTORY
FOR YOUR SEWING NEEDS
local
DERBYSHIRE ESSEX GLOUCESTERSHIRE
We've been established for more than Silks & velvet. Natural, printed and dyed.
50 years, providing quality fabrics and
haberdashery supplies to the people of Small quantities at wholesale prices.
Essex for half a century.
01702 474 115
www.gypsylace.co.uk info@belle-fabrics.co.uk
Belle Fabrics Ltd, 4-12 Elm Road, Leigh-On-Sea, SS9 1SN
www.beckfordsilk.co.uk | 01386 881507
DEVON LEICESTERSHIRE
Workshops
Fabric
Patterns
Sewing Machines
www.leicestershirecraftcentre.co.uk
*p068-069 MAKE IT TODAY CLASSIFIEDS_MAKE IT TODAY 03/11/2017 14:20 Page 69
Make it
THE ESSENTIAL AREA DIRECTORY
FOR YOUR SEWING NEEDS
local
LEICESTERSHIRE ONLINE NORFOLK SEWING HOLIDAYS
Haberdashery
and classes.
Ample free parking.
RUTLAND SEWING www.gillybee.co.uk
Located at Rutland Garden Centre, 01603 716140 | 07419131287
Ashwell Road, Oakham LE15 7QN 2 Cucumber Lane | Brundall
Tel: 01572 756468 | Norwich | NR13 5QY
www.rutlandsewing.co.uk For amazing offers visit Sewbox.co.uk gillybeedesigns
ONLINE ONLINE
Attention Hobby-Dressmakers!
Learn Pattern Making Make It Today...
in Minutes with behind the scene pics, exclusive competitions,
Learn how to make your own
projects and share your makes with us!
patterns with the Lutterloh-System
For beginners and experts www.makeittoday.co.uk
Easy and fun to use Follow us on
Watch free video and find more
information online:
www.i-love-dressmaking.com @makeittodaymag
Please note that all projects are subject to change
NEXT ISSUE WITH...
FreeGILET
NO-PATTERN
2017
@makeittodaymag
uk.pinterest.com/makeittodaymag
instagram.com/MakeitDressmaker
70 makeittoday.co.uk
THE PRACTICALS
Party season is all about putting on the
glitz, so make sure youre ready to let
your hair down without letting your
technique down. Readers can feel
anxious about tackling materials with
beads or sequins, or ruining fancy
fabrics with incorrect machine settings;
we also know how frustrating it is to get
so close to the finishing line only to find
your seams arent up to scratch. Were
showing you how to ramp up the glam
factor with essential stitching tips.
Lauren Guthrie gives the lowdown on
sewing with sequins, and Sarah Greeff
explains how to smarten up your
machine skills with beaded fabric. After
youve got to grips with tricky fabrics,
Jennifer Lauren outlines how to create a
perfect finish with professional-quality
French seams. Once youve mastered
those fine details, you wont need a fairy
godmother, but you shall go to the ball!
makeittoday.co.uk 71
Sewing With Beaded Fabric
SA R A H G R E E F F S I M P L I F I E S T H E
P R O C E S S O F ST I TC H I N G W I T H
E M B E L L I S H E D M AT E R I A L
72 makeittoday.co.uk
TOP TECHNIQUE: F R E N C H S E A M S Class Act
JENNIFER LAUREN ON A CONTINENTAL FINISH TO GIVE YOUR PARTY WEAR A LITTLE OOH LA LA STITCH CHIFFON AND SATIN WITH THE
FASHION AND TEXTILE MUSEUM
I love a French seam, Still feeling a little apprehensive about
1 as its such an effective, stitching with delicate materials? Zandra
classy way to give Rhodes dressmaker Jolanta Cerniauskiene
reinforcement and a is hosting a popular one-day class that
lovely finish. In this can give you the confidence to work with
walkthrough, Ill show high-end fabrics such as chiffon and satin.
you how to use my The Couture Techniques workshop shows
Hunter Tank pattern, which can be almost you how to learn a range of techniques such
completely made up with French seams, as pin hem and machine-rolled hem, and
apart for the centre front, and if youre come away with your own samples for
new to the technique, its the perfect each technique you tackle. 9th December
project. These seams really come into or 13th January, 80, ftmlondon.org
their own at party season its the best
kind of edging to use on delicate, light
and sheer fabrics. They enclose the raw
2 edge of a seam, produce a beautiful
finish inside and out, and they are
really straightforward.
VISIT JENNIFERLAURENVINTAGE.COM
FOR MORE USEFUL TUTORIALS
makeittoday.co.uk 73
I nt
I wanted Sew Over It
ervi
ew
to be welcoming, like
a home from home
Pattern queen and cake fiend Lisa Comfort chats about
her modern vintage inspirations and dressmaking dreams
WE LOVE YOUR MODERN VINTAGE PATTERN solitary hobby that I think it needs that extra
IDEAS: WHAT INSPIRES THEM? dimension, and so having a place to share what
Thank you! I get my inspiration from youve made online with other like-minded
everywhere, mostly just by looking at what people seems really important.
people are wearing in the street. Whenever ANY ADVICE FOR DRESSMAKERS WISHING TO
I see things that look stylish, I tend to use TURN THEIR PASSIONS INTO A PROFESSION?
that as a starting point. Of course, some ideas Personally, I think its important to have
wont work in practice: I once designed a mac, worked in other small businesses before taking
but it ended up having 23 pattern pieces, the plunge, so you can see how they run; its
which just wasnt practical. So I designed very different to a big company. You also need
the Lola Coat instead, as part of the to think about your idea loads, and talk it over
My Capsule Wardrobe City Break range. with lots of people. You cant ever train to run
WHO ARE YOUR INFLUENCES FROM THE your own business its something you learn
WORLD OF SEWING AND FASHION? on the job, as it were. Feeling comfortable
To be honest, I feel really inspired by other about taking risks is imperative.
business women who are nailing their fields. DO YOU HAVE ANY OTHER ASPIRATIONS
Sheryl Sandberg and her Lean In project OR AMBITIONS LEFT TO CONQUER?
(helping professional women achieve their Id love to head out to America and meet some
career goals) are massive inspirations at of our customers out there. Fingers crossed,
the moment. Style-wise, its no secret that Im really hoping that one day, therell be a
I absolutely adore 1950s and 1960s looks. dressmaking-centred show or fair out there,
I love Marilyn for her sass, Brigitte Bardot for where we can exhibit. Its hard to imagine right
her femininity and Audrey Hepburn for her now, but if I wasnt running Sew Over It,
signature chic. Id love to indulge one of my other creative
WAS THE COMFY CAFE VIBE ALWAYS passions. Maybe Id become a make-up artist!
INTEGRAL TO THE VISION FOR YOUR BUSINESS?
When I started Sew Over It, I knew I wanted
it to be warm and welcoming in contrast
Maker Profile
to school and university sewing spaces, which
can be intimidating. It almost needed to feel
like a home from home somewhere that
youd feel comfortable trying something new.
DESCRIBE YOUR CREATIVE SPACE? Alongside which, I love tea and I love cake,
Easy! I created mine with Sew Over It. so I knew theyd have to become a feature
WHATS YOUR EARLIEST SEWING MEMORY? of the business!
With my childminder, embroidering IS IT TRUE THAT, AS A GIRL, YOU TURNED
a marble bag with my initials. DOWN A TRIP TO NEW YORK FOR A
MOST AMUSING FASHION FAUX PAS? A pair SEWING MACHINE?
of trousers I made, which I couldnt put on Yes! It turned out to be a good decision,
because Id sewn up the crotch! I think. Do I ever imagine how my life might
have been if I had picked the trip instead?
WHICH PIECE OF MUSIC BEST SUMS In general, I dont really do What ifs? as
YOU UP? Ooh, thats hard! I love upbeat I prefer to look ahead to the future, rather
songs with positive messages. than dwell on what might have been. Having
WHATS YOUR FAVOURITE CAKE AND TEA said that, Im sure I would have got my hands
COMBO? Earl Grey and a slice of banana on a sewing machine one way or another, so
the outcome would have been the same.
cake. Mmm!
BEST PIECE OF ADVICE YOUVE EVER RECEIVED? HOW CRUCIAL WOULD YOU SAY THE
Setting up your own business wont kill COMMUNITY ASPECT OF SEWING IS TO
you, said my mum! YOUR WORK?
Honestly, I am passionate about engaging with
HOW WOULD YOUR BEST FRIEND DESCRIBE the sewing community on social media and
YOU? Bubbly, caring, bad cook, and through my YouTube channel; its lovely to
hard-working. have that connection. Dressmaking is such a