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BASIC SKILLS HAND TOOLS B.No.

985631-R 8/73 Page 1 of 77

BASIC SKILLS HAND TOOLS

Foreword

Bulletin No: 985631-R 8/73

Have you ever wondered why a certain screw driver doesn't stay in the screw slot the way you'd like for it to? Or why some files
and hacksaw blades wear out more quickly than others? Or why hammer handles have slender necks?

True, some experienced mechanics may be aware of all the facts presented in this recall booklet. But many of you will probably
learn something you never realized before.

So read through the booklet with an open mind, despite some of the seemingly boring facts. Then decide whether or not it has
helped you in the use of basic hand tools.

Screw Driver -- Spanners&Sockets -- Torquewrench Calibration -- Hammers -- Files -- Saws -- Review

Copyright 1991

Cummins Engine Company, Inc.

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1. .

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2. Few of us will ever admit that there are some rules


we don't practice concerning hand tools. We take it for
granted that a screwdriver turns screws, a wrench
turns capscrews, and so on. And yet -well,

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3. take the screwdriver, for instance. Sure, it's for


turning-

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4. for turning screws! This tool does its job very well if
the blade fits the screw slot properly, like this. Apply
downward pressure and turn it slowly and steadily,
keeping the blade straight in the -

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5. But what happened here? It looked like a good fit.


Let's take a closer look at that blade.

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6. Notice the angle of the taper, and the edges of the


blade itself. Apparently, this blade has been ground
improperly, causing premature wear and failure. ..One
good way

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7. to sharpen a screwdriver is to lay it against the


grinding wheel like this. Grind both sides uniformly,
making sure that the blade is kept cool. This method
produces

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8. a "hollow-ground" blade. The edges on this blade

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9. "bite in." If the screw heads are in reasonably good


shape, you'll have very few problems with this
screwdriver. ..If you prefer the conventional

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10. shape, use a file to sharpen the blade. You can


control the shape much easier than when you grind the
blade on the side of a wheel. Make sure that the taper
is gradual enough to allow the sides of the blade to be
almost parallel at the tip.

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11. Phillips-head screws are used around smooth


surfaces that could be easily marred or scratched if a
screwdriver slipped off a screw head. The

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12. Phillips screwdriver will not slip out of the screw


slot as easily as the standard screwdriver. The one
disadvantage of using Phillips-head screws is that
much more downward pressure is required to hold the
screwdriver in the slot.

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13. Here's a simple, but misused, tool: the combination


pliers. You can usually tell when a pair of pliers has
been used in place of a wrench.

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14. Everyone is familiar with the many different types


of wrenches available today. But their proper and safe
use may be a mystery to some mechanics. The

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15. open-end wrench is one of the most frequently


used wrenches in the automotive industry. It is faster
than a box wrench when a socket wrench can't be
used. The off-set angle of the jaws allows a capscrew
or bolt to be turned by simply flopping the wrench at
the end of each swing. The

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16. box-end wrench may be used to final-tighten or


loosen capscrews or bolts. Although it is slower than
the open-end wrench, its twelve points assure positive
contact on hexagon-head capscrew and bolts. Thus,
greater force can be exei on all

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17. standard wrenches, the length of the wrench is


directly proportional to the size of its openings. In most
cases, this helps to insure that proper twisting effort is
applied to the capscrew or bolt. A

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18. small amount of twisting effort is required for this


job, while

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19. a great amount is necessary for this one.

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20. How long has it been since you've seen this? It


may work OK part of the time, but a

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21. standard tubing wrench works much better. It

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22. contacts five of the six corners on the fitting. In this


way, greater force can be applied to loosen stubborn
fittings. ..A

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23. wrench often wrongly substituted for open, box,


and even tubing wrenches is the adjustable wrench.
Sure, it's a convenient tool. And,

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24. it saves on trips to the tool box. If you must use it,
be sure to use the right size for the job,

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25. and pull against the solid jaw. The adjustable jaw is
naturally weaker, and may allow the wrench to slip off
the capscrew. Or, worse yet, it may break the wrench.

Actually,

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26. it's a good idea to always pull on any wrench. This


method sure cuts down on smashed knuckles and
fingers. But,

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27. if there's no other way, just keep your fingers clear.

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28. The socket wrench is by far the most popular


wrench in the world. The quarter, three-eighths, half,
and three-quarter inch drives fit sockets that range
from a fraction of an inch to several inches in diameter.
With a little imagination,

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29. any mechanic can come up with a combination that


will get the job done.

Never

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30. resort to something like this to get the job done


quickly. Take time to get a bigger drive, or a hinged
offset handle. It'll save the expense of a new ratchet.
Hammering on this tool

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31. has a devastating effect on the ratchet teeth and


the "stop" lever. ..Even

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32. this method is bad news. Wrenches and handles


are designed to withstand the force exerted by a strong
man --period!

Another important wrench, used mostly with socket


sets,

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33. is the torque wrench. In many cases,

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34. it is very important that the capscrews be tight-


ened evenly, in the proper sequence, and to a specific
torque -not so loose that they vibrate out and cause a
failure; but not so tight that they break.

The main points to remember concerning the torque


wrench are:

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35. One, make sure the wrench is kept properly cali-


brated by experienced personnel.

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36. Two, since the torque wrench is a delicate instru-


ment, use it with great care. Store it in a safe place
when it is not being used. And

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37. three, pull the wrench slowly and steadily, always


making certain that the needle returns to its place of
beginning when you release tension on the wrench. If
the needle does not return to its proper place, double-
check the torque on the capscrew.

Another tool that requires a certain amount of care,


believe it or not, is the common, everyday

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38. ball-peen hammer. It looks mighty rugged, but this


device is often abused more than any other tool. The

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39. head of a good hammer is drop-forged. That is, it's


made by hammering red-hot steel into the shape you
see here.

This steel is extremely tough and durable. The beveled


edges on the face help to prevent chipping,

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40. unless the user hasno idea of what the hammer is


for. ..

The typical

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41. dime-store hammer has a cast-iron head. This


head is made by pouring white-hot iron into a sand
mold. The metal is very brittle -it usually doesn't last
very long.

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42. But either type will last longer than normal if you
strike a surface as squarely as possible.

The

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43. shape of a good hammer handle isn't just for looks


-each contour has a definite purpose. The

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44. slender neck allows a certain amount of "spring" in


the handle. This spring allows the user to deliver a
harder blow; and it softens the shock of the blow on his
wrist and arm.

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45. The but t-end allows the user to grip the hammer
securely, where he can get the best leverage and can
hit his target squarely.

Two common hand tools used with the hammer are

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46. punches and chisels. There's no great secret


involved in their proper use.

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47. However, one helpful hint, when using such a tool,


is to hold it rather loosely. Then

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48. if you hit your fingers, they'll "give" much faster,


and less damage will be done.

Another good idea is

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49. to hold the hammer with just enough pressure to


keep it from flying out of your hand. It's amazing how
much longer your arm and wrist will hold out.

Keep

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50. the but t-end of punches and chisels dressed down


properly,

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51. and avoid dumb accidents. ..

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52. Speaking of "dumb," ever see anyone using an


injector plunger in place of a standard center punch?
It's a good way to put out an eye. The tip is extremely
hard and brittle -it could shatter when you least expect
it.

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53. Here's another brittle tool that should never be


hammered on. It, too, can be quite dangerous. A good
mechanic

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54. will insert the file part-way into the handle, then
give the handle several sharp raps on a wooden
surface.

And,

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55. when that good mechanic uses the file on any hard
metal, he uses a firm, uniform pressure on the forward
stroke, and lifts it completely off the work on the return
stroke. Each of

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56. these methods greatly extends the life of any file.


Filing too lightly, or dragging the file back over the
work, dulls the teeth because the tips of the teeth are
worn down quickly if they barely contact the work.

On the other hand,

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57. you should always draw the file back along soft
metal, to help keep the teeth cleaned. Soft metal will
not dull the file teeth. Use a

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58. file card to keep all file teeth clean. A clean file cuts
better, and it doesn't scratch the work. When they're
not being used,

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59. keep them stored in such a way that the teeth will
not be damaged.

Now let's -

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60. oh oh! Looks like somebody neglected to put a


handle on his file. It sure pays to play it safe. File
handles are cheap.

Now let's take a look

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61. at a tool that is used in much the same manner as


the file. The hacksaw can cut a wide variety of
different-sized metals. The

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62. blades are made with teeth ranging from fourteen


to thirty-two per inch. The proper blade must be
selected, of course, for the type of metal being cut. But

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63. the "three-tooth rule" should be used for any metal-


cutting job. This simply means that at least three teeth
should contact the work at all times. Fewer than three
teeth would

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64. most certainly cause problems.

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65. Like the file, a hacksaw cuts only on the forward


stroke. Use a little downward pressure on the for- ward
stroke, but lift the saw slightly on the return stroke --
almost like the file, and for the same reason.

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66. After several minutes of sawing, a new blade will


stretch a little. Always keep it tight enough so it won't
buckle during use. If a

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BASIC SKILLS HAND TOOLS B.No.985631-R 8/73 Page 68 of 77

67. used blade must be replaced with a new one,


never change it in the middle of a cut. Since the teeth
on the old blade have lost most of their "set," the cut
will be too narrow, and,

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68. when a new blade is forced into the cut, you'll wipe
out the teeth in one stroke. If the

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69. blade breaks in the middle of a cut, begin a new


cut. If this is impossible, cross your fingers and very
carefully start sawing into the old cut until the blade
reaches solid metal. Then proceed as usual.

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70. Here's another neat trick that'll wipe the teeth out of
any hacksaw blade. Always

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71. start the cut with at least three teeth contacting the
work.

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72. We've tried to cover most of the basic hand tools


commonly used in many shops today. Two important
things to keep in mind are:

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73. One, use the proper tool for the job; and

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74. two, use the tool properly. Never

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75. substitute the wrong tool simply because it saves


time. It may not save anything -including a few fingers.
It seems that, with the simplest tools, even the

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76. wisest mechanic needs to have his memory jogged


once in a while.

Formated by -- Service Training School

Cummins Diesel Sales and Service (India) Limited,


35A/1/2, Erandawana, Pune - 411 038

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