Documenti di Didattica
Documenti di Professioni
Documenti di Cultura
AUSTRALIA
travel beyond your expectations
www.australiasoutback.com
www.westernaustralia.com
Lonely Planet oces All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
Australia Locked Bag 1, Footscray, VIC 3011 reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted
613 8379 8000 fax 613 8379 8111 in any form by any means electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording or otherwise, except for
USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607 brief extracts for the purpose of review, without the
510 893 8555 written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet
Toll Free 800 275 8555 fax 510 893 8572 and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely
Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Other trademarks are the
UK 72-82 Rosebery Avenue, London EC1R 4RW property of their respective owners.
020 7841 9000 fax 020 7841 9001
Although the authors and Lonely Planet try to make
Cover Image: Rainbow Valley, Northern Territory the information as accurate as possible, we accept
no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience Eyre Highway, Nullarbor Plain South Australia
sustainied by anyone using this book.
JOURNEYS TO AUTHENTIC
AUSTRALIA
travel beyond your expectations
www.southaustralia.com
www.australiasoutback.com
www.westernaustralia.com
Kangaroo Island South Australia
EXPERIENCE AUTHENTIC AUSTRALIA
Away from Australias eastern seaboard lies a treasure-trove of superb
beaches, mind-blowing natural features, authentic outback experiences,
world-class wines and gourmet fare, ancient Aboriginal cultures, rare and
precious fauna, and, of course, the resilient and welcoming people who have
made this part of Australia the intriguing and unforgettable place it is.
Just imagine returning home from your Australian adventure and having to
admit to your friends that that you never saw the sun come up over Uluru,
or watched whales and their calves cavorting along the Nullarbor coast,
or witnessed millions of waterbirds taking ight in the Kakadu wetlands, or
swam with whale sharks on Ningaloo Reef, or plunged into a crystal-clear
outback water hole, or explored the magnicent bush in Wilpena Pound.
Theyd wonder how you spent so much time and eort reaching this remote
continent and still managed to miss out on seeing the best bits.
This booklet will help you to avoid such awkward moments. Everything
thats special and unique about the beautiful southern, central, northern
and western areas of this amazing continent can be found within these
pages. Plan your itinerary accordingly, and before long youll be bidding
farewell to the travellers stuck on the beaten track of the east-coast tourist
route and embarking on an extraordinary series of experiences that will stay
in your mind forever.
Uluru Northern Territory
ACCESSING AUSTRALIAS
HEART & SOUL
Getting started is as easy as taking a ight or turning the ignition key.
Qantas (www.qantas.com.au) and Virgin Blue (www.virginblue.com.au)
y into Adelaide, Perth, Darwin, Alice Springs and Broome, and can connect
to numerous smaller centres and Jetstar (www.jetstar.com.au) ies into
Adelaide. If youre willing to play things by ear, cheap ights are available at
short notice, which can be a great way to cut down on
travelling times. However, the best way to get a real appreciation of the
beauty and majesty of this part of Australia is on four wheels. Hiring or buy-
ing a car will give you the greatest exibility, allowing you to travel on your
own terms, going where and when you like, or staying put for a while when
you nd somewhere that captures your interest. Greyhound (www
.greyhound.com.au) buses oer excellent jump onjump o tickets, while
several companies oer extended tours between capital cities, taking in the
best of the attractions on the way. Another great option is to embark on one
of Australias two great train journeys: the Indian Pacic (Sydney to Perth)
and The Ghan (Adelaide to Darwin). See Lonely Planets latest Australia
guide for details of all transport options within Australia.
www.australiasoutback.com
www.westernaustralia.com
AUTHENTIC AUSTRALIA EAST Arafura Sea
Sumbawa Savu Sea Timor TIMOR Cobourg
Sumba Melville Is Peninsula Wessel Is
Savu Bathurst Island Mary
Nhulunbuy
Timor River NP
Jabiru Cape Arnhem
Ashmore Reef Darwin
Cartier Is Sea Joseph Arnhem
(Australia) Cape Bonaparte Litchfield
Kakadu Land Gulf of
Londonderry NP
Gulf NP Katherine Carpentaria
INDIAN Mataranka
Groote
Eylandt
Wyndham
y
Kununurra
Hw
Rd ria
Collier Bay Victo
OCEAN Borroloola Mornington
r
ve
Lake Is
Ri
Cape Leveque bb
Gi Argyle
Dampier Derby Elliott Burketown
Peninsula Fitzroy Purnululu NP
Crossing
Broome Halls Creek
Rainnders
Kalgoorlie- Woomera
ges
lain Broken
Southern
Boulder rbor P
Moora Nulla CedunaR Gaw Hill
Fl
Cervantes Cross
Head an le Port
Eucla of Bight ge r
s Augusta
Perth
NSW
Northam Norseman Whyalla
Fremantle Great Australian Bight Eyre Port Pirie
Coffin Pen.
Bunbury Collie Esperance Adelaide
Cape Naturaliste Bay NP
Margaret River Manjimup Port
Cape Leeuwin Albany Lincoln Victor
35S
Kangaroo Is Harbor
115E
110E
VIC
Naracoorte
SOUTHERN
Mt Gambier
OCEAN Portland
NT
40S
WA SA
0 400 km
0 240 miles
120E
135E
140E
130E
125E
JOURNEYS TO AUTHENTIC
AUSTRALIA
travel beyond your expectations
www.southaustralia.com
www.australiasoutback.com
www.westernaustralia.com
MURR RIVE
AY R
THE GREAT SOUTHEAST Waikerie Renmark
To Port
Augusta
Hamley Kapunda Blanchetown Berri
Ardrossan Bridge
Nuriootpa
Loxton
Tanunda Wunkar
Gawler Swan Reach
Williamstown
Gulf Paruna
St Vincent
Wanbi Murray-Sunset
ADELAIDE Halidon National Park
Billiat Berrook
CP
Mt Barker Murray Bridge
Karte
McLaren
Vale Strathalbyn
Fleurieu Tailem Bend
Pinnaroo
Peninsula Lameroo
Mallee Hwy Murrayville
Normanville
Port Middleton
Cape Elliot
Goolwa Yumali
SA
Jervis Victor
Granite
Harbor Is
Penneshaw Meningie
Coonalpyn
Yo Pe
Ngarkat
un ni
Culburra CP
gh nsu
us la
KANGAROO Tintinara
ba
nd
ISLAND
Coorong
National Salt Creek
Park Keith Du
kes
VIC
Prin
Hw
y
ces
Bordertown
Kaniva
Hwy
Mundulla
Southend Nangwarry
Millicent
Canunda Casterton
National Park
Tantanoola
To Melbourne
0 50 km (400km)
0 30 miles Mt Gambier
Carpenter Rocks
Dartmoor
Port MacDonnell
Discovery
Bay
THE GREAT SOUTHEAST
Sweeping surf beaches, breathtaking caves, Cave, but whatever you do, dont
blindingly white saltpans and good guzzling miss the amazing Bat Cave. Arrive
in a world-class wine region could there at dusk to witness mass migrations
be a better way to start your trip into South of bats clouding the sky or peek
Australia? into their home using infrared TV
cameras. Its thirsty work, so pull
NARACOORTE CAVES & into the Coonawarra wine region
COONAWARRA to taste the famous peppery Shiraz
Just near the Victorian border, the from this compact wine-producing
World Heritagelisted Naracoorte powerhouse. There are more than
Caves National Park is a great diver- 23 cellar doors offering tastings and
sion. Plunge underground to tour sales, so pick up a few examples of
the stunning limestone caves or take the worlds finest reds to sustain you
a self-guided tour of the eerie Wet on the journey ahead.
Merriton Hallett
Spalding
Port
y
Hw Broughton
Cowell Burra
Brinkworth Valley
Cleve Clare
n
c ol Snowtown
Lin Clare
Arno
Bay
Wallaroo
Kadina
Spencer Moonta
Gulf
Maitland Kapunda
y
Balgowan Hamley
lle
Va
Ardrossan Bridge
Port Victoria Nuriootpa
ssa
Tanunda
ro
Ba
Gawler
Yorke
Peninsula Williamstown
Minlaton Gulf
St Vincent
Hardwicke
Bay
ADELAIDE
Warooka Yorketown
0 50 km
0 30 miles
ADELAIDE & AROUND
Cultured Adelaide has a packed festival become Australias pre-eminent arts
calendar and Australias best-value fine- destination. The River Torrens curves
dining culture, which happily can be ac- through this lush cosmopolitan city, but
companied by the Barossas best tipples. For you can discover an older history at
wildlife fans, Kangaroo Island is only a short Tandanya (www.tandanya.com.au), the
hop away, while further north the beautiful indigenous cultural institute, or at the
Flinders Ranges are an unmissable side trip. South Australian Museum (www
.samuseum.sa.gov.au), which houses the
ADELAIDE worlds largest exhibition of Australian
Ditch the City of Churches stereotypes, Aboriginal culture. Rundle Mall and
because Adelaide has a lot more to Rundle Street offer great dining and
offer than stained glass and gargoyles, shopping, while the Art Gallery of SA
and over the past couple of decades has (www.artgallery.sa.gov.au) hosts
ADELAIDE FESTIVALS
Adelaide is Australias festival capital, oering the best of food, wine, sport and culture
throughout the year. The international cycling action of the Jacobs Creek Tour
Down Under (Jan) kicks the year o. Every two years in March theres the high-brow
Adelaide Festival of Arts and the quirky Adelaide Fringe Festival, as well as the
worlds best musicians congregating every year for WOMADelaide. Aprils Oakbank
Easter Racing Carnival (in the Adelaide Hills) is big for picnicking and partying, while
Julys Adelaide Festival of Ideas draws together thinkers from weapons inspectors to
Franciscan friars. Feast (Nov) is one of Australias best-known lesbian and gay cultural
festivals, while Tasting Australia (Oct), with its gathering of gourmets and chefs, has
to be the countrys most delectable. December rounds o the year with the Bay Sports
Festival, held seaside at Glenelg with beach volleyball, an aquathon and a surf carnival.
Kangaroo
Barossa Valley
Island South Australia
of the best known labels, Yalumba,
A TASTE OF OUTBACK LIFE Wolf Blass and Penfolds. Just 55km
Staying at an outback station is both northeast of Adelaide, the Barossa is
a whole lot of fun and a great way to an easy drive; otherwise take a tour
sample life on the land in this harsh with Groovy Grape Getaways
and unforgiving environment. You (www.groovygrape.com.au).
can pitch a tent or stay in the lap of
FLINDERS RANGES (SIDE TRIP)
luxury, and most places oer tours of
Ochre hills become majestic peaks as
their properties by plane, motorbike
you enter Flinders Ranges National
or horseback plus self-drive routes,
Park, where a massive natural basin,
bushwalking and gourmet meals. See
Wilpena Pound, is a haven for native
www.indersoutback.com for a list
wildlife. Theres great bushwalking or
of options.
you can check out quaint villages such
as Melrose or Quorn, with its scenic
BAROSSA Pichi Richi Railway. Stop in at the Prai-
Australias best-known wine district rie Hotel for some famous feral food
crushes around 65,000 tonnes of (including wallaby stir-fries, camel
grapes annually, check out some sausages and emu-egg frittata) or take
WINERY WONDERLAND
With over 50 cellar doors in the Barossa theres heaps of places to sample the valleys
nest. Jacobs Creek Visitor Centre (www.jacobscreek.com) showcases Australias
biggest wine exporter, while boutique operators Rockford Wines produce a avour-
some Shiraz. A perfect way to enjoy the wineries is with a leisurely picnic at wineries
such as riverside Peter Lehmann Wines, or Bethany Wines with gentle hillside views.
Still thirsty? You can hit the Clare Valleys small family and boutique wineries, which
are all within driving distance from Adelaide. The Clare Valley visitors centre (www
.clarevalley.com.au) has pointers on the valleys best bottles at spots like Annies Lane
and Sevenhill Cellars.
Authentic Australia 19
a joy flight and marvel over Wilpena as Rabbit Proof Fence, a poignant look
Pound. The whole area is a popular at the travails of Aboriginal children
location for Australian bush films, such forcibly separated from their families.
ADNYAMATHANHA CULTURE
Land is integral to the culture of the local Adnyamathanha (Hill People) indigenous
groups. Their stories seek to explain the freakish land formations of the area; Wilpena
Pound, for example, is said to be two giant snakes who could not move after feasting
on too many humans. The rich red colours of the landscape are believed to be the
blood of dogs who once roamed the area. You can hear more traditional lore at the
indigenous cultural centre of Iga Warta (www.igawarta.com), which also oers
fascinating tours.
Flinders
BarossaRanges
Valley South Australia
FLINDERS RANGES
0 30 km
0 20 miles
Lake
Torrens
Flinders Ranges
National Park
Wilpena
Wilpena Pound
ES
NG
To Coober Pedy RA
Hawker
RS
DE
IN
FL
Cradock
St
ua
rt
Hw
y
Belton
The Dutchmans
Stern CP
Quorn
Carrieton
Johnburgh
Port
Augusta
Wilmington
Willowie
Orroroo
Melrose
To Adelaide To Adelaide
Whyalla
Authentic Australia 21
WORKING HOLIDAYS
If you need to earn a few extra Aussie dollars to fund your trip, and you are under 30
years of age with a Working Holiday visa, there are plenty of opportunities to put
down your rucksack and join the workforce for a while. Around harvest time (March
to April) in South Australia there are jobs in the wine industry picking and crushing
grapes contact the wineries direct. For regional fruit-picking, head to Berri (SA), where
workers are recruited for the South Australian orchards; up north for the mango season
in Darwin (May to October); or the great fruit bowl of Kununurra, in Western Australia
(April to November). For a taste of outback life, there are seasonal jobs on cattle stations
and roadhouses (see www.australiasoutback.com), while pubs and restaurants across all
states are always looking for casual sta. For those with professional qualications, coun-
try areas are crying out for locums, nurses and casual teaching sta agencies such as
Employment Plus (www.employmentplus.com.au) can help you nd a match for your
skills. And if you just want to work for bed and board with some like-minded altruists,
contact Willing Workers on Organic Farms (www.wwoof.com.au).
Barossa
Riverland
Valley South Australia
RED CENTRE Alice Springs Mt Isabel
ATNETYE
ABORIGINAL LAND
West MacDonnell
National Park
Areyonga Santa Teresa
y
Watarrka Finke
Hw
Kings
National Canyon Illpurla Gorge Stuarts Well
Park National
Park
6
Mt Rodinga
rt
Stua
NT
Kata Tjuta
(The Olgas) Chambers
Pillar
Yulara Erldunda Mt Hakea
SIMPSON
Uluru- Mt Kingston DESERT
Uluru
(Ayers Kata Tjuta Mt Connor
Finke
Rock) National (Artula) Mt Peebles
Park
Mt Reynolds Kulgera
Mt Etingimbra
Ernabella
Amata (Pukatja)
e
ng
Witjira
Ra
National
ot
Park
g
Ba
Fregon Simpson Desert
Indulkana Regional
Mt Alberga Reserve
Mimili
Marla
Mintabie
PITJANTJATJARA
ABORIGINAL LAND Oodnadatta
Stu
art
Cadney Homestead
Mt Waddikee
Roadhouse
Hwy
Lake
Giles Memorial Eyre
North
Mt Euee
Conservation Tallaringa Lake Eyre
Park CP National Park
William
WOOMERA Creek
PROHIBITED AREA Coober Pedy
(Stuart Hwy unrestricted)
Do Lake
MARALINGA g Eyre
TJARUTJA South
ABORIGINAL Fe
nc
LAND e
Oo SA
lde
a
Maralinga
Ra
ng
(Restricted Area) e
Olympic Dam Andamooka
Tarcoola Roxby Downs
Lake
Kingoonya Glendambo Torrens
Yellabinna RR Mt Finke Woomera National
Nullarbor Park Lake
Roadhouse
Lake Pimba Torrens
& Hotel
Everard
Yalata
Roadhouse
Lake
Nundroo Lake Gairdner
Head Roadhouse Gairdner
of Bight & Hotel
Pureba CP
National
Penong Park
Fowlers
Great Bay Ceduna Mt Hiltaba
Australian Quorn
Bight Smoky Bay Wirrula
Haslam Port Augusta
0 100 km
0 60 miles
RED CENTRE
A journey to the outback takes on the aura the fire in the stone, this township is
of a pilgrimage as you travel into Australias definitely the Opal capital of the world.
spiritual and physical heart. Features erupt The lure of precious stones has attract-
from the landscape and waterholes harbour ed people to work excavations such
in valleys. Stunning scenery prompts dramatic as Toms Working Opal Mine, living in
colour changes, from the subtle hues captured underground houses and worshipping
by artist Albert Namatjira to rich earth tones in subterranean churches. Youll be in
against an endless blue sky, punctuated with awe of the nearby Breakaways Reserve,
ghostly tree trunks and bursts of greenery. a stark yet colourful area of arid hills
and scarps that includes the white-and-
COOBER PEDY yellow mesa called the Castle. Further
With over a million mines studded out is the Dog Fence and the table-like
around Coober Pedy all searching for Moon Plain on the road to Oodnadatta.
from the Pitjantjatjara lands at the cen- in a swag to secluded five-star cabins.
tres gallery. Take another day to walk You can fly around Uluru for birds-eye
the Valley of the Winds at the equally views, ride a camel over the dunes at
captivating Kata Tjuta (the Olgas). The sunrise or enjoy the lack of city lights
track winds through gorges offering at the days finale and explore the inky
surreal views of its domes. southern sky, enlivened with Anangu
Whatever you do, dont miss a sunset and Greek astrological legends at the
(or a sunrise!). The enigmatic monolith Night Sky Show (www.ecotours.com
turns from ochre-brown to burnished .au). If youre ripe for a splurge, the
orange and intense red before blend- unique Sounds of Silence (www
ing with the night sky, while Kata Tjuta .voyages.com.au) sets an Uluru sunset
is a marvel at its blood-red best. Take to the soundtrack of the didgeridoo
along champagne for a toast to nature. and sparkling wine. A sumptuous
Tours and accommodation suit all candlelit dinner in the desert and
tastes, from camping under the stars stargazing ensue.
Illpurla Hermannsburg
Santa Teresa
Areyonga
art
Mt Rodinga
Alice Well
Lake
Amadeus
Mt Hakea
Erldunda
Yulara Uluru- 0 50 km
Kata Tjuta 0 30 miles
National Park
Uluru
(Ayers Rock) Mt Kingston
Authentic Australia 27
MACDONNELL RANGES
The rugged MacDonnell Ranges THE CENTRE & THE
stretch like a spine for 400km to the RAINBOW
east and west of Alice Springs, and har- You can position yourself at the dead
bour gorges carved by ancient rivers centre of Australia at the Lambert
and rocky waterholes. Devote a couple Centre. Traverse rugged sandy tracks
of days to covering the major sites and 4WD territory to reach it and the
of the region, camp out in low-key multi-hued Chambers Pillar, between
areas to feel and experience the Red the Stuart Hwy and the Simpson
Centre, or stay at Glen Helens friendly Desert. Rainbow Valley Conservation
homestead to enjoy the live music Centre, a spectacle of glowing cream
and red sandstone clis at sunset,
and hearty country meals. Watch
is also worth a detour o the Stuart
the midday sunlight stream between
Hwy.
near-vertical walls at Standley Chasm,
Larapinta
BarossaTrail
Valley
Northern
South Australia
Territory
THE TRACK
Angurugu
Nitmiluk Mt Furner Numbulwar
(Katherine Gorge)
National Park GROOTE 0 100 km
Katherine Beswick Roper EYLANDT 0 60 mi
Bar
Cutta Cutta Caves Elsey Ngukurr
National Park Port Roper
Maria Is GULF
Mataranka
y
OF
Hw
Gregory Elsey
CARPENTARIA
ia
HODGSON DOWNS
Stua
National
tor
rt H
Alice Springs to
Borroloola
Daly Waters Mt Brown
Darw
ABORIGINAL
r
LAND TRUST
Railway
BARKLY TABLELAND
Hells Gate
Tablelands
Newcastle Waters Roadhouse
Elliott NT
Mt Seale
WAANYI / Doomadgee
Mt Reid Lake GARAWA
Woods ABORIGINAL
Renner Springs Mt Steiglitz
Hw
LAND
Tarrabool y
Mt Hawker
Lake Mt Morgan
Mirrinyungu KARLANTIJPA NORTH
ABORIGINAL LAND TRUST Lawn Hill
CENTRAL Lake National Park
DESERT Sylvester
ABORIGINAL Threeways Mt Lamb
LAND TRUST Tennant Creek Ba
rkl
y
TANAMI DESERT MUNGKARTA Hwy
Camooweal
ABORIGINAL Wunura Store
LAND TRUST Camooweal
KARLANTIJPA SOUTH WAKAYA ABORIGINAL Caves
Devils Marbles National Park
ABORIGINAL Conservation Reserve LAND TRUST
LAND TRUST Wauchope
Mt Solitaire Davenport Range QLD
Wycliffe Well National Park
Mt Rawlins
Ali-Curung Alpurrurulam
WIRLYAJARRAYI
ABORIGINAL
y
Mt Alone
Hw
Mt Theo LAND
Barrow Creek
y
Hw
Sandover Urandangi
rt
ua
Mt Leichhardt Mt Hogarth
St
Mt Dixon
Ti Tree Arlparra Store
Urapuntja
Yuendumu Utopia
Ta
nam
i Mt Sainthill
Aileron
Mt Guide
Tilmouth Well Roadhouse
Rd
Hwy Mt Wooldridge
Plenty
s
Range
Mt Liebig
Papunya
onnell Tropic of Capricorn
MacD Mt Gerald
Ikuntki Trephina Gorge
Mt Putardi (Haasts Bluff) ATNETYE
PETERMANN West MacDonnell Alice Springs Mt Isabel ABORIGINAL LAND
ABORIGINAL National Park
LAND TRUST Areyonga Santa Teresa
Finke Gorge Simpson
Watarrka Kings National Park Desert
National Park Canyon Illpurla Stuarts Well NP
THE TRACK
The rich red landscape and open skies north of back larrikinism it was built on. Just
Alice hold the key to some of the regions most check out the annual Henley-on-Todd
celebrated Aboriginal art. You gain a different Regatta (September/October), where
perspective on the Explorers Way, a trip boat crews dash up the dry Todd
up the sealed Stuart Hwy, accompanied by River, or wander into one of the many
thundering road trains, the odd mad-keen (or pubs for a long night of propping up
just plain mad) cyclist, the sight of wedge-tailed the bar. The Alices pioneer history
eagles, and laconic outback wit in atmospheric is everywhere to be seen, partly told
roadhouses. through the colourful murals that fla-
vour the town. Sit in on a lesson at the
ALICE SPRINGS School of the Air (www.assoa.nt.edu
Central Australias major centre, Alice .au) as it is delivered to kids on remote
Springs, is a classic place, with modern outback stations, or tour the base
facilities not quite concealing the out- of the Royal Flying Doctor Service
WA PELLEW GROUP
ria
ALT
Hw
Victoria R
Borroloola
y
Daly Waters
Lake GARAWA
Gregory Top Springs Mt Brown ALT
Argyle NP Dunmarra
Railw
Cape Crawford
WAGURUNGURU
ive
ALT
ay
BARKLY TABLELAND
r
QLD
VICTORIA HIGHWAY
TAKE A HIKE The Victoria Hwy stretches from
From short boardwalk stints to view Katherine to Kununurra, traversing
rock art and wetland waterbirds to the tropical and semi-arid transi-
long scrambles up rocky outcrops and tional zone and threading between
all-day hikes, walks in Kakadu end in sandstone scarps and soaring cliffs.
superlative views and the odd undis- Cruises from Timber Creek show-
turbed clear pool. Hard yards reward case majestic Victoria River and its
with space to contemplate and feel creatures both the friendly and the
the place without distraction. seriously snappy. Sidling up to the
border is Boab-studded Keep River
National Park, a boutique-sized park
goes down, make camp, boil a billy and with stunning sandstone formations,
catch a fireball sunset before sleeping rock-art sites, excellent walking
out under a blanket of stars. tracks and abundant wildlife.
E
ADMIRALTY GULF ABORIGINAL
RT
ABORIGINAL LAND Drysdale LAND
PA
0 100 km River
NA
Or
0 60 miles
Prince National
BO
d
Park Rive Mirima
Regent Wyndham r
INDIAN Nature Kununurra NP
OCEAN Kuri Bay Reserve Keep River NP
R Emma
EE O Gregory NP
AN LAG Gorge
CK PE Lake
BU CHI DOON DOON
ge
ABORIGINAL Argyle
AR
Rd
WAGURUNGURU
an
LAND ABORIGINAL LAND
R
ot
Cape Leveque
nn
r
Isd RiveMT BARNETT
Sy
Lombadina MILITARY
Or
ell Rive ABORIGINAL
Pender Bay TRAINING AREA Turkey Creek
d
King r LAND
River
Sound (Warmun)
bb WA NT
Beagle Bay Gi Purnululu
Dampier Derby (Bungle Bungle)
Point Peninsula Windjana Gorge NP
E S NP
Coulomb Mowanjum KING
LEOPOLD RANG
Hwy
Nature Tunnel Creek NP
Reserve Mt Coghlan
Mt Archie
Cable Beach Willare
Looma Geike Gorge NP
Broome Roebuck Bridge
Fitzroy Crossing Halls Creek
Roadhouse Roadhouse NOONKANBAH
Rosebuck rn Mt West Wall
ABORIGINAL LAND rthe Ga
Bay No
y
rd
Hw
St G Great ner
eorg
n
Barbrongan Tower Ra
er
e R ng
rth
(225m) ang e
e
No
nges
Gre
hern
ch
Be a
Nort
ile
t
M
ea
hty
Gr
Eig Sandfire
Roadhouse
Larrey Point Kidson
Pardoo Track
Port Hedland Roadhouse
Cape Cossigny
ABORIGINAL
INDIAN Montebello Is Dampier LAND Roeburn
Lake
Waukarlycarly
95
Capricorn
tal Range Range
almia opic of
Hwy
Park o as NR
C
Hi ULLAWARRA Opth Tr
352
Coral Bay gh
t
es
Northern
W
Minilya NP
Lake Kennedy Kumarina Roadhouse
Well 10
Roadhouse
MacLeod Range NP
95
Well 9
Great
Well 8
Mt Gascoyne
yne
Well 7
River
Well 6
co
Gas
Gascoyne Well 5
Junction
n Range
Well 4A
Well 4 (salty)
ve
Shark
Coordewandy
Ri
Well 2A
Karalundi
Bay Monkey
Well 2
on
Wiluna
chis
Gladstone
Denham Meekatharra Lake Way
Mur
353
Overlander
Roadhouse Mt Murchison Nannine
Billabong Murchison Settlement
Roadhouse Toolonga Roadhouse Cue
NR Lake Austin Leinster
Mt Charles
Sandstone
Mt Magnet Tabletop
Kalbarri
Binnu Leonora-Gwalia
123
Eradu
123
95
95
Wubin Wialki
Ra
nge
Jurien
Cervantes Moora Mt Grey
116
Southern
s
y
Nambung NP The Pinnacles Cross Hw
0 200 km rn
New Norcia Easte
95
30
Kulin Jilakin Rock
120
107
WESTERN COAST
Natural splendour is everywhere to be seen holes and lush vegetation, which
along WAs western coast, with a host provide a delightful respite from
of natural wonders to explore, from the the hot sun. Stop at the excellent Kari-
limestone pillars of the Pinnacles and secret jini visitors centre, run by the areas
waterholes of Karijini National Park to the traditional owners, the Banyjima, for
teeming marine life of Ningaloo and Shark an insight into the rich local history,
Bay. Charge up your camera and prepare for then don some stout boots and start
experiences found nowhere else in the world. exploring the parks many striking
gorges each different from the
KARIJINI NATIONAL PARK (SIDE TRIP) last. When youre done, grab your
Hidden within the red dust, rugged swimming costume and walk deep
rocks and sheer ravines of this inland into the crevasses for an afternoons
national park are gorgeous water- carefree play in the cool waters. Tours
Barossa
Exmouth
Valley
Western
South Australia
endangered marsupial species are catered tours and independent canoe
being reintroduced, is also well worth hire available. In the evening you can
a wander, while the tiny town of Den- kick back at a beachside caf, eat fish
ham has all the sleeping, eating and and chips on the beach or mingle
shopping facilities you need. with the locals over a steak at the pub.
KALBARRI GERALDTON
A popular holiday town on the mouth This fine old town boasts some of
of the Murchison River, Kalbarri offers the best pubs north of Perth and a
yet more beautiful beaches, some of thriving live-music scene to keep
the states best surf breaks and an you leaning on the long timber and
addictively easy-going ambience. brass bars well into the wee hours.
Just east of town are the deep and Swimming in the crystal-clear waters
majestic gorges of Kalbarri National of the town beaches will ease an
Park, carved out of the sandstone by aching head, or you can try your hand
the snaking twists and turns of the at windsurfing Geraldtons steady
Murchison. Sheer cliffs almost seem breezes are a magnet for wave-jump-
to touch as they tower above you, ers from across the world. Offshore
and climbers and abseilers take full lies the magnificent isles of the
advantage. Canoeing is a fantastic Abrolhos, home to sea-lion colonies,
way to explore this park, with both sea birds, hefty golden-orb spiders
and the small Tammar wallaby. Bring
your snorkel to gaze in wonder at the
CLOCKWORK DOLPHINS delicate reefs that swarm with a rare
Dolphins have been appearing and spectacular mix of tropical and
almost every morning for decades temperate fish species. Day trips are
at Monkey Mia, just to the east of offered by several outfits (see www
Denham. Ditch your shoes and join .geraldtontourist.com.au).
the crowd to see the dolphins being
fed in the shallows by rangers, who CERVANTES & THE PINNACLES
will ll you in on the life cycle of these On the outskirts of the small cray-
intelligent mammals. fishing seaport of Cervantes the
famous Pinnacles of Nambung
Authentic Australia 53
Barossa
Lancelin
Valley
Western
South Australia
THE GREAT SOUTHWEST Wialki Kalgoorlie-Boulder
Coolgardie
116
Nambung NP Southern
Moora Kambalda
Mt Grey Cross Boorabbin NP Widgiemooltha
Wongan Nungarin
Wedge Is y Yellowdine
Hills Hw
Lancelin Lake
95
Merredin rn
Carrabin
Cowan
Moore River NP Bindoon Goomalling ste WA
Ea
at
Gre Bruce Rock Norseman
Yanchep Cunderdin
Northam Lake Dundas Rocks
Johnston
PERTH York Dangin
Narembeen
Rottnest Wave Rock Lake
Island Corrigin Hyden Hope
Fremantle Armadale
A
40
40
Pinjarra
120
Hw Lake King
I N D I A N Lake Clifton y Narrogin 107
Scaddan
Lake Grace
OCEAN Harvey Dalyup Gibson
20
Williams Ravensthorpe
Wagin Esperance
Brunswick Coast Hwy Cape Le
Bunbury Junction
Arthur
River Bay of
Katanning uth Hopetoun Grand
So Isles NP
Cape Naturaliste Donnybrook Fitzgerald River
30
Kojonup Broomehill
Dunsborough Jerramungup National Park
Busselton Tambellup
Bridgetown
10
Frankland
Augusta
Pemberton Bay
Shannon NP Mt Barker
102
DEntrecasteaux Mt Frankland NP 30
0 100 km
NP Walpole- Albany 0 60 miles
Nornalup King George Sound
NP Walpole Denmark
SOUTHERN OCEAN
in the world, and attracts an inter- Gloucester Tree, a giant among gi-
national field every year for its ants, thrusting high through the can-
Masters pro event local surfing opy to a height of 60m and topped
heroes like Taj Burrows often can be by an old bushfire-lookout platform.
seen riding the Surfers Point waves. A ladder of broad pegs twists helix-
The majestic tall timbers of nearby like upwards around the trunk, and
Boranup Forest are also worth a look, the wind and swaying upper reaches
as is its fine woodcraft gallery. make for a hair-raising experience,
but from the top there are killer
PEMBERTON views all the way to the coast, and
The magnificent old-growth karri youll have bragging rights over your
forests surrounding the tiny timber mates for days. Further south near
town of Pemberton will take your Walpole, the Valley of the Giants
breath away. Among these tower- Treetop Walk gives a birds-eye view
ing and ancient specimens, is the through tingle trees.
ESPERANCE
The gorgeous Bay of Isles surrounds
BIBBULMUN TRACK this small agricultural town on a stun-
If time is on your side, tackling a ning stretch of WAs southern coast.
portion of the 964km Bibbulmun White-sand beaches and brilliant blue
Track will give you unrivalled access waters are just the job for lazing in
to the southwests superb karri, marri
the warm sun, swimming and beach-
combing the day away, as well as
and jarrah forests. Winding its way
enjoying a rare look at beach-loving
from Albany to eastern Perth, it takes
kangaroos. Across the water, more
you through the best of the regions
than 100 islets dot the waters, and
natural features, ora and fauna, and
are home to fur seals, penguins, sea
has almost 50 camping grounds with
eagles, dolphins, whales and more.
water and pit toilets along its path.
Just east of town, the Cape Le Grand
For details of this amazing track, see
National Park offers more fabulous
www.bibbulmuntrack.org.au.
beaches, excellent bushwalking and
camping under the stars.
Esperance Western Australia
Great Victoria Desert
THE NULLARBOR PLAIN & EYRE PENINSULA Nature Reserve
NULLARBOR SA
PLAIN
Queen Victoria Continues
Spring Nature Below
Reserve Nullarbor
Recreation Nullarbor
AY
IA RAILW Reserve National Park
TRANS-AUSTRAL
COONANA
ABORIGINAL Mundrabilla Eucla
Kambalda LAND WA Border
Roadhouse
Widgiemooltha Madura Village
Cocklebiddy
Hwy
e
Newmans Rocks Caiguna Eyr Great
Balladonia Australian
Norseman Point Dover Bight
Dundas Rocks Nuytsland
Nature Reserve
Point Culver
Oo
MARALINGA lde e
TJARUTJA a nc
Ra Fe
Do
ABORIGINAL LAND ng
g
Fence SA Dog
Maralinga e Lyndhurst
(Restricted Area) Olympic Dam Andamooka
Tarcoola Roxby Downs Leigh
Nullarbor Lake Creek
Continues Recreation Yellabinna Torrens
Kingoonya Glendambo
Above Reserve Recreation National
Reserve Mt Finke Woomera Park Parachilna
Nullarbor Lake
Nullarbor Roadhouse Everard Pimba
Lake
National Park & Hotel Lake Torrens
Yalata Nundroo Gairdner
Roadhouse Roadhouse National Lake
Head & Hotel Park Gairdner
of Bight Penong
Pureba CP Hawker
Great Australian Bight Fowlers
Mt Hiltaba
Marine Park Bay Cactus Ceduna
Beach
Great Smoky Bay Wirrula Gawler Ranges Port Augusta Quorn
Australian Haslam National Park
Bight Poochera Iron Knob
Streaky Bay Minnipa
Wudinna Kyancutta Whyalla
SOUTHERN Venus Bay
Talia Eyre
OCEAN Hwy Port
Lock Pirie
Elliston Rudall
Snowtown
Sheringa Port
Arno Kadina
Neill Bay
Eyre
Peninsula
Yeelanna Spencer Port
Coffin Bay Gulf Maitland Wakefield
National Park Louth Bay Yorke
0 100 km Lincoln Peninsula
0 60 miles Port Lincoln
National
Cape Carnot Park ADELAIDE
r Strait
Investigato
THE NULLARBOR PLAIN & EYRE PENINSULA
The straight red road heading east from impressive coastal dunes. Youll pass
the West Australian border is remarkable through Nullarbor National Park,
enough, but a detour down the Eyre Penin- hugging the coast to the WA border.
sula makes this a truly spectacular journey. Below, the dry plain is honeycombed
with limestone caves that you can
NULLARBOR PLAIN venture into at Murrawijinie Cave.
The long stretch from Border Village Border Village marks the SAWA
to Ceduna takes in several sites along border with the Big Kangaroo, a giant
the way, so stop for regular breaks. marsupial that offers a cool drink to
You can turn-off for legendary surf passers-by.
at Cactus Beach, which has strong
breaks and bush camping. Further HEAD OF BIGHT
on, Fowlers Bay is an almost ghost Turn off at Yalata Roadhouse to get
town with heritage buildings and to the Head of Bight whale-watching
Barossa
Eucla
Valley
Western
South Australia
GAWLER RANGES (SIDE TRIP) COFFIN BAY NATIONAL PARK
Accessible from Minnipa or Wudinna, (SIDE TRIP)
the Gawler Ranges National Park is Not far from Port Lincoln, the wild
being discovered by bushwalkers and coastal scenery of Coffin Bay National
nature-lovers alike. Its known for the Park promises outdoor adventure.
spectacular Organ Pipes (shafts of Theres bush camping at Yangie Bay
granite projecting spectacularly out and several challenging day walks
of cliffs), while Mt Wudinna is reput- through thick heathland, including to
edly SAs largest exposed monolith. Sudden Jerk Lookout. Watch out for
The Granite Trail, a 25km self-drive emus, which are known to be particu-
tour, is a quick way to see the moun- larly friendly around here.
tain from Wudinna.
BAIRD BAY SEA LIONS
PORT LINCOLN
This prosperous port was almost the Swimming with sea lions and
states capital and still does big busi- dolphins at Baird Bay is one of those
ness with several tuna farms in the must do experiences. Once Baird
bay, so expect to see millionaire fish- Bay Ocean Eco Experiences
(www.bairdbay.com) has guided
ermen driving beat-up utilities. Hills
you through your encounter with
surround the town and Boston Island
these playful creatures of the sea,
protects the entrance to the harbour.
youll never want to leave the water.
The Seahorse Farm is the best way to
If you prefer to stay on dry land, a
get up close to the delicate leafy sea
network of gravel roads leads out to
dragon, SAs state marine emblem,
Point Labatt in Baird Bay, where a
while Whalers Way, also known as
large colony of Australian sea lions
Cape Carnot, is a great place to spot
is visible from clitop viewing plat-
not-so-delicate leviathans. Boat tours
forms. They usually laze just 100m
are available for close-up inspection away on the rocks. You can stay out
of these enormous mammals, or you in the wild, camping in Calpatanna
can join a group to explore the walks Waterhole Conservation Park at
and waves of Coffin Bay and Lincoln Wedina Well.
National Parks.
JOURNEYS TO AUTHENTIC
AUSTRALIA
travel beyond your expectations
www.australiasoutback.com
www.westernaustralia.com
Lonely Planet oces All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
Australia Locked Bag 1, Footscray, VIC 3011 reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted
613 8379 8000 fax 613 8379 8111 in any form by any means electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording or otherwise, except for
USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607 brief extracts for the purpose of review, without the
510 893 8555 written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet
Toll Free 800 275 8555 fax 510 893 8572 and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely
Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Other trademarks are the
UK 72-82 Rosebery Avenue, London EC1R 4RW property of their respective owners.
020 7841 9000 fax 020 7841 9001
Although the authors and Lonely Planet try to make
Cover Image: Rainbow Valley, Northern Territory the information as accurate as possible, we accept
no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience Eyre Highway, Nullarbor Plain South Australia
sustainied by anyone using this book.