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Quality Assurance Product Inspection

&
Testing Capabilities

Prepared on 09/15/2014

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The International Standards
are strategic tools and
guidelines, designed for
companies to approach a
various demanding challenges
of modern business.

Specifically, the ISO 9000


family is a series of standards,
developed and published by
the ISO. These standards are
currently the most widely
known and most effective. The
ISO 9000 has functioned in
various industries and
organizations as a guide to
quality products, service and
management.

With the help of the ISO


9001:2008, ISA Industrial Ltd.
works to ensure that their
customers continue to receive
consistent, quality products
and services.

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An independent research
and testing organization
established in 1919. It has
technical facilities in the
UK and China serving
customers throughout the
world.

SATRA is a leading
technical authority for
footwear and leather.

The SATRA systems are


global standards for quality
and production efficiency

The Management System


of our internal laboratories
along with our lab
technicians have all been
accredited by SATRA,
each having all met the
requirements for SATRA
Laboratory Accreditation
Scheme for various test
methods.
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Test Method Name
Dynamic Water Penetration - Maeser
Standard Test Methods
ASTM D2099 SATRA TM 34

Applicable Specifications
MIL-PRF-3122J MIL-DTL-32237B
NCTRF PD 02-07 GL-PD-10-01C
CR/PD 09-03
Technical description
Maeser test replicates the repeated flexing of the footwear upper
under conditions of water exposure. It is an indication of the
suitability of the leather to resist the conditions of dynamic shoe
flexing, and actual waterproof performance of the shoe.

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Test Method Name
Static Water Absorption of Leather
Standard Test Methods
ASTM D6015

Applicable Specifications
MIL-PRF-3122J
NCTRF PD 02-07 MIL-DTL-32237B
CR/PD 09-03 GL-PD-10-01C
Technical description
Static water absorption is an indication of the leather ability to
repel water, avoiding the effects of acting like a sponge when
exposed to water.

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Test Method Name
Leather pH
Standard Test Methods
ASTM D2810 ISO 4045

Applicable Specifications
MIL-PRF-3122J MIL-DTL-32237B
NCTRF PD 02-07 GL-PD-10-01C
CR/PD 09-03
Technical description
pH of the aqueous extract of leather is an indication of the
presence of strong acid/alkali that could compromise chemical
safety in use and/or performance.

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Test Method Name
Hexane Extraction from Leather
Standard Test Methods
ASTM D3495 SATRA TM 346

Applicable Specifications
MIL-PRF-3122J
NCTRF PD 02-07 MIL-DTL-32237B
CR/PD 09-03 GL-PD-10-01C
Technical description
Hexane extraction is an indication of the quantity of oils, fats,
waxes, etc, that define the characteristics of each type of
leather. High values of extractables may compromise the
construction of the shoe, while very low values may indicate
poor lubrication between leather fibers making the leather brittle
and prone to cracking.

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Test Method Name
Baumann Tear Strength Test / Slit Tear Resistance
Standard Test Methods
ASTM D2212 TM 162

Applicable Specifications
MIL-PRF-3122J MIL-DTL-32237B
NCTRF PD 02-07 GL-PD-10-01C
CR/PD 09-03

Technical description
Tear strength, as all mechanical properties of leather, is an
indication of the degree of tanning of the hide, besides indicating
proper performance in shoe construction.

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Test Method Name
Bleeding Resistance to Water
Standard Test Methods
ASTM D6012

Applicable Specifications
MIL-PRF-3122J MIL-DTL-32237B
NCTRF PD 02-07 GL-PD-10-01C
CR/PD 09-03
Technical description
Bleeding resistance is an indication of potential color transfer to
other materials under wet conditions when wearing the shoe.

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Test Method Name
Total Ash in Leather
Standard Test Methods
ASTM D2617

Applicable Specifications
MIL-PRF-3122J
NCTRF PD 02-07 MIL-DTL-32237B
CR/PD 09-03 GL-PD-10-01C
Technical description
Ash content is an indication of the inorganic matter present in
the leather, as a measurement of the quality of the
tanning/finishing.

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Test Method Name
Chromic Oxide in Leather
Standard Test Methods
ASTM D2807

Applicable Specifications
MIL-PRF-3122J MIL-DTL-32237B
NCTRF PD 02-07 GL-PD-10-01C
CR/PD 09-03
Technical description
Chromium oxide content is the key measurement to verify the
tanning degree of the leather (chromium tanned). Low values of
Chromium oxide are an indication of poor tanning of the hide.

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Test Method Name
Oil/Water Repellency
Standard Test Methods
AATCC TM118 (mod.)

Applicable Specifications
MIL-DTL-32237B

Technical description
A drop test with different concentrations of Isopropyl alcohol
gives an indication of the ability of the leather to repel and not to
absorb oils or water from its surface.

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Test Method Name
Break/Pipiness of finished leather
Standard Test Methods
SATRA TM36

Applicable Specifications
NCTRF PD 02-07

Technical description
SATRA Break scale is a method to assist with measurement of the
tendency of the grain of the leather to form wrinkles when bended
inwards. It is a simple method to eliminate subjective judgment as
much as practically possible.

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Test Method Name
Leather Permeability to Water Vapor
Standard Test Methods
ASTM D5052

Applicable Specifications
Common in all shoe upper material specs

Technical description
Water Vapor Permeability is a desired feature of upper leather
which at proper values will ensure moisture level into the shoe
will not build up and will breathe through the upper.

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Test Method Name
Flexibility and Adhesion of Finish Leather
Standard Test Methods
ASTM D6182

Applicable Specifications
Common in all shoe upper material specs

Technical description
Bally flex is an indication of the finishing resistance to crack and
crease when repeatedly flexed, emulating the flexing of the
actual use of the shoe.

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Test Method Name
Color Fastness to Crocking
Standard Test Methods
ASTM D5053 SATRA TM 167

Applicable Specifications
Common in all shoe upper material specs

Technical description
Color transfer to rubbing is a measurement of the tendency of
surface color to transfer to other components by contact or
friction.

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Test Method Name
Tensile Strength and Extension at Leather Break
Standard Test Methods
SATRA TM 43

Applicable Specifications
Common in all shoe upper material specs

Technical description
Tensile strength and elongation, as all mechanical properties of
leather, is an indication of the degree of tanning of the hide,
besides indicating proper performance in shoe construction.

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Test Method Name
Lastometer Ball Burst Test
Standard Test Methods
SATRA TM 24

Applicable Specifications
Common in all shoe upper material specs

Technical description
Lastometer is a very good indication of the ability of leather grain
to withstand lasting operation during shoe making without
cracks.

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Test Method Name
Fish Scale Tear Test
Standard Test Methods
Ref. ASTM D2212 SATRA TM 162

Applicable Specifications
Common in all shoe upper material specs

Technical description
Fish scale is a quick manual measurement in production of the
leather resistance to tear, comparable to the Baumann tear
strength.

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Test Method Name
Cross Hatch Tape Test
Standard Test Methods
SATRA TM 406

Applicable Specifications
Common in all shoe upper material specs

Technical description
Cross hatching and applying adhesive tape on the leather
finishing is a quick measurement in production of the adhesion
of the finishing to the grain of the leather.

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Test Method Name
Leather Softness and Thickness
Standard Test Methods
IUP36 SATRA TM 1

Applicable Specifications
Common in all shoe upper material specs

Technical description
Softness and thickness are non destructive test that indicate the
adequacy of the leather to the specified customer orders.

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Test Method Name
Color Check
Equipped with
PHILIPS D65 FLUORESCENT TUBES
GRETAG MACBETH D65 FLUORESCENT TUBES

Applicable Specifications
All customer approved color masters and working standards

Technical description
Color evaluation is a key control point of appearance of leather.
In ISA we consider and keep under control the three elements
that result in color visual perception: material, incident light and
the color assessor.

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Test Method Name
Color Check - Spectralight III
Equipped with
D65 INCANDESCENT FILTERED TUNGSTEN
TL84 FLOURESCENT TUBES
COOL WHITE FLOURESCENT TUBES

Applicable Specifications
All customer approved color masters and working standards

Technical description
Color evaluation is a key control point of appearance of leather.
In ISA we consider and keep under control the three elements
that result in color visual perception: material, incident light and
the color assessor

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Test Method Name
Farnsworth-Munsell 100 Hue Test
Standard Test Methods
Chips in 4 Series of Hue Pairs

Applicable Specifications
Applicable to all personnel approving colors. Maximum score
acceptable: 40
Technical description
Visual test intended to measure the ability of personnel to
discriminate small steps in hue variation, across the entire color
spectrum. The test can detect personnel with low color
discrimination and avoid the risk of poor color matching and
judgment.

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Test Method Name
SATRA Sorting
Standard Test Methods
SATRA Leather Assessment

Applicable Specifications
Common in all shoe upper material specs

Technical description
All our finished leather sorters are certified by Satra annually as
competent to perform Satra leather assessment method.

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