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3
NOTES...................................................................................................................................................................................... 3
PRINTING INSTRUCTIONS........................................................................................................................................................ 3
PATTERN ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS ...................................................................................................................................... 4
PATTERN LAYOUT DIAGRAM................................................................................................................................................... 4
CONTACT ................................................................................................................................................................................. 5
SIZE CHART .............................................................................................................................................................................. 5
FINISHED GARMENT SIZES ...................................................................................................................................................... 5
SUPPLIES.................................................................................................................................................................................. 6
KNIT TIPS ................................................................................................................................................................................. 7
KNIT FABRICS........................................................................................................................................................................... 8
GLOSSARY................................................................................................................................................................................ 8
TROUSERS ............................................................................................................................................................................... 9
CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS ..................................................................................................................................................... 9
STEP 1 ATTACH THE PANEL ............................................................................................................................................ 10
STEP 2 SEW INSIDE LEG AND HEM ................................................................................................................................. 11
STEP 3 PRESS AND SHIRR WAISTBAND .......................................................................................................................... 12
TIPS FOR SHIRRING ........................................................................................................................................................... 12
KIMONO TOP......................................................................................................................................................................... 14
CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS ................................................................................................................................................... 14
STEP 4 SEW ARM SEAMS AND BIND wrists .................................................................................................................... 15
STEP 5 ATTACH ARMS .................................................................................................................................................... 18
STEP 6 ATTACH BINDING ................................................................................................................................................ 19
STEP 7 PREPARE AND SEW ON RIBBONS ....................................................................................................................... 22
PATTERN PIECES .................................................................................................................................................................... 25
All patterns, pictures and instructions are protected by copyright law and should not be copied, reproduced or
redistributed in any way. All rights reserved. Thank you for supporting my small business.
Difficulty level:
Teeny Tiny Trousers: confident beginner
Little Kid Kimono Top: confident beginner intermediate*
* There are more steps involved in the top and it will take longer than the trousers. However, none of the
steps are complicated and the instructions will take you through them easily.
Skills required: sewing a curve, straight stitch, zigzag stitch, attach binding
Seam allowances of 1cm (3/8) are included on all pattern pieces (unless stated otherwise).
Pattern uses metric measurements first then imperial measurements in brackets and italics throughout.
It is assumed that you have regular sewing supplies and a sewing machine.
Always backstitch at the beginning and end of a seam then finish threads.
1. Make sure to print the pattern pieces at Actual Size (also called Print at 100% or No scaling). Do not scale.
2. The instructions and pattern pages are separated for the trousers and the top, so it is possible to just print one
out if you dont want to make both.
3. Two test squares (5cm or 2) are included on page 25 and page 29 to check the pattern is printing at the correct
size. Print one of these pages first and check the size of one of the squares is correct before printing the rest of
the pages you need.
4. To save paper, consider printing the instructions two pages per sheet.
2. Match up the respective triangles and pattern lines then tape together. Repeat until all pieces are joined
following the layout below.
The measurements below are those of the child not the garment. As this pattern uses knit fabric and the waistband is
shirred there will be a reasonable amount of range. Both garments are designed for a baby aged 0-3 months.
cm inches
Waist cm /(inches) 41 16.25
Chest 41 16.25
Height 55 6.25
The shirred waistband will gather to fit waists approximately 14 and larger. The exact measurement depends on the
tension of your shirring.
cm inches
Waist From approx. 14,
depending on shirring
Finished Length 29 11.5
cm inches
Waist 42 16.5
Chest 42 16.5
Sleeve length (from top 23 9
of raglan sleeve to
wrist)
Length (from back of 25 10
neck to bottom edge)
Trousers Jersey note that interlock is not recommended for the shirred waistband.
However, it is possible to use interlock by using an elasticated waistband
instead
Kimono Top Main fabric - jersey or interlock
Binding - jersey
IMPORTANT: Always prewash, dry and press your fabric before you start cutting into it.
The measurements below are based on 150cm (60) wide fabric and allow for some shrinkage when the fabric is first
washed. Measurement given is length of fabric required, unless stated otherwise.
If you have never sewn with knit fabric before then do not be put off. Check out the knit tips below before you start
sewing.
2. A walking foot helps to feed both layers of fabric through evenly and prevent puckering.
3. If you do not have a walking foot then reducing the foot pressure is a good alternative.
4. Interlock is the most stable type of knit fabric and is the best choice for those trying knits for the first time.
5. Jersey can curl towards the right side. If the curling is excessive then use spray starch to make the fabric more
stable.
6. Use a zigzag stitch, stretch stitch or serger on any seams that need to stretch. If you use a straight stitch then
your stitches will start to break with wear. I prefer a narrow zigzag stitch length 3.0 and width 0.5.
7. A twin needle is recommended for hemming. This produces two rows of straight stitches on the top with a single
line below that weaves between the rows. This allows the stitches to stretch.
8. Do not stretch your fabric as you cut it. Using a rotary cutter and cutting mat can help to prevent this.
9. Do not stretch your fabric as you sew. Just gently guide it without pulling, unless instructed otherwise.
10. The thickness and stability of different knit fabrics can vary greatly. Always practice on scrap fabric and check
tension before you start.
Right side Fabric has a right side and a wrong side. Jersey tends to curl towards the right side. With
interlock it can be difficult to identify sometimes and the difference can be very subtle. If you
are not sure then just choose a side and use a fabric marker to mark the wrong side on all
pieces.
Top stitch A row of stitches sewn close to a finished seam. Used to secure the seam allowance or for
decorative purposes.
Seam allowance The fabric between the stitches for a seam and the edge of the fabric. It is usually hidden on the
inside of a garment. As knit fabric does not fray it is not necessary to finish the edges of the
seam allowance.
Scant This means you sew just under the seam allowance stated. For example, a scant 1/4 seam
means to sew with a seam allowance just under 1/4". You can adjust your needle to the left or
right to help sew this accurately.
The main leg piece should be cut on the fold so you will have two fabric pieces, as shown.
TIP: If you are using stripes then you will not be able to get them to line up if you cut both the main leg piece
and the bum panel with the stripes running horizontally.
If you want to add any details to the panel, such as an applique design, it will be much easier to add it now. Remember
to allow for seam allowance of 3.5cm (1) at the top and 1cm (3/8) on the sides and bottom. Also bear in mind that
the bottom fifth(ish) of the panel will be tucked out of sight when the trousers are worn.
1.2
1.3
2.2
2.3
Shirring involves sewing several rows of stitches with elastic thread on the bobbin. This gathers the fabric and gives the
garment stretch in that area. Shirring should gather the fabric and reduce its width by approximately half but this does
depend on the tension of your machine and the fabric itself. It tends to work better with lighter weight fabrics. Shirring
makes a waistband that will fit very comfortably with a lot of range in the size it will fit. This is ideal for these trousers for
newborn babies, who can have widely varying waist sizes.
Some people find they are able to shirr on their sewing machine first time without any issues while others need to spend
some time making adjustments to get it to work. My reading suggests that those with top loading bobbins are more
likely to have problems, particularly those with Brother sewing machines. The type of elastic thread you use can also
affect your shirring so try other brands if you are still having problems.
My machine has a top loading bobbin and this is what works for me:
Hand wind the elastic thread onto the bobbin. Pull the thread just a little bit so it does not hang loosely around
the bobbin.
Use a straight stitch with stitch length 3.
Use a top tension of 3.
When clipping threads pull enough of the elastic thread out so that it doesnt ping back into the bobbin.
Forward and back stitch at the start and end of end row to secure the elastic.
Recommended tutorials:
http://www.makeit-loveit.com/2011/11/sewing-tip-shirringsmocking-with-elastic-thread.html
http://pretty-ditty.blogspot.co.uk/2009/04/smockingshirring-tutorial.html
http://www.rufflesandstuff.com/2010/02/shirring-tutorial.html
http://grosgrainfabulous.blogspot.co.uk/2010/08/shirring-with-your-brother.html
3.2
Shirr the waistband. Use a straight stitch and
the free arm if your machine has one.
3.3
The wrist binding pieces were included within the long binding strip in the picture above so are not shown
separately.
4.2
4.3
4.5
4.6
4.8
Sew to the inside of the each wrist again. Use
a long straight stitch or twin needle
(recommended).
4.9
5.2
5.3
6.1
Start pinning on the binding strip, lining up
one edge of the strip with the outer edge of
the main body / arm pieces. The right side of
the binding should face the right side of the
main body piece.
6.2
6.4
A. Take the first few centimetres (two inches)
of binding that you sewed. Fold the binding
over and arrange so it just covers your first
line of stitching on the wrong side. Pin from
the right side of the kimono through the
binding seam to catch the binding on the
wrong side (as for the wrist binding in step
4.7).
6.5
6.7
6.8
TIP: Wondertape secures the ribbon in place better and makes sewing them easier than using pins. This
applies throughout step 7.
IMPORTANT: When securing all ribbons to the kimono top use a triple straight stitch if you have one. If not,
stitch back and forwards twice to secure.
7.1
Transfer all ribbon markings (A to F) from the
pattern if you havent already.
7.2
Take the unfolded end of 3 pieces of ribbon
and fold over 5mm (3/16) to the right side.
7.4
Take the unfolded end of 1 piece of ribbon
and fold over 1cm (3/8) to the wrong side.
7.5
Stitch in place.
7.7
Stitch in place.
7.8