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FIGURE 4A - Chamber end of barrel with squared-off liner 2) Cut the chamber into the liner, including the recess for
in place, checking for tight fit. the cartridge rim. Do the job by hand, using a T-handled tap
wrench to hold and turn the finish reamer. (A rougher is gener-
2) The next step is to square off one end of the liner perpen- ally not needed.) Cut slowly, use lots of Do-Drill; clean reamer
dicular to its bore. First, cut off 12" to 1" from one end of the and chamber often.
liner. This gets you past any possible damage done to the liner
during manufacture, shipment or preparation for installation. 3) Insert the Go headspace gauge into the newly cut cham-
Carefully file the newly cut end of the liner square, using a ber. Now, lay a straight edge, such as a 6" metal ruler, across
machinist square or other aid against the side of the liner tube the liner and headspace gauge. Any gap between the rear face
for reference. (See Figure 4B.) of the headspace gauge and the straight edge means excess
headspace. To correct, face off some of the rim of the liner. If the
Important Note: The breech end of the liner has a groove
approximately .090" wide around the exterior of the liner.
Make sure this end is at the breech, not at the muzzle.
CUTTING THE CHAMBER FIGURE 7 - Headspace gauge in place - chamber depth cor-
rect. Note thin rim of liner left around Headspace gauge in
There are two basic types of chambers used on .22 rifles. Type 1 Chamber.
3) With the liner mounted vertically in the vise, insert the Type 1 Chamber (Cartridge Head in Barrel)
Go headspace gauge in the newly cut chamber. Place the 1) In Type 1 Chambers with small extractor cuts, push
breech bolt, with the extractors removed, on the end of the the liner forward until it is flush with the face of the original
liner. (See Figure 8). By close examination under a strong light barrel. Using a sharp scribe, carefully mark the location of the
you can determine if the rim recess in the bolt is correct. If the extractor cuts, checking your marks against the drawing you
face of the bolt does not touch the liner, first examine the rim made.
recess in the bolt face to see if there is any crud keeping the
bolt from seating correctly. If the bolt recess is clean, then your 2) Remove the liner and carefully make the necessary
chamber is not deep enough, and must be cut deeper. extractor cuts in the liner. Needle files work very well for
this, but any other method that cuts cleanly and precisely will
work. Reinstall the liner in the barrel.
3) Reinstall the barrel on the receiver; reinstall the extrac-
tor; and, holding the liner in place with your hand, insert a
dummy cartridge in the chamber and work the action to be
sure it will extract the cartridge. Its easier to correct problems
now rather than after the liner is bonded into the barrel.
Type 2 Chambers (Cartridge Head in Bolt)
1) Follow steps 1 and 2 above.
2) Reinstall the extractors on the breech bolt and with the
liner in place in the barrel, check to be sure they will extract a
dummy cartridge from the chamber in the liner.
3) Reinstall the bolt and the barrel on the receiver. Holding
the liner firmly in place with your hand, insert a dummy car-
tridge in the chamber and work the breech bolt through its full
FIGURE 8 - Bolt positioned on top of the liner with Go gauge cycle to be sure it will extract the cartridge. Make whatever
in place. End of the liner contacts the bolt, while the rear face corrections are necessary now, before you bond the liner in the
of the headspace gauge DOES NOT.
barrel.
Go slowly, cutting only .001" at a time and check with the
headspace gauge and bolt after each cut until the bolt face FEED RAMPS AND CARTRIDGE GUIDES
touches the barrel liner edge as described above. Use Do- On barrels where a feed ramp or cartridge guide is an inte-
Drill and clean after each cut. This additional depth will cut a gral part of the barrel, the drilling operation will cut away part
shallow rim recess in the barrel liner itself, and must be done of the ramp or guide. This must be replaced. The uncham-
so the bolts forward movement during loading is stopped by bered liner is slid out past the breech end of the barrel until
the rear face of the lined barrel, not the cartridge rim. If the the rear edge of the liner mates with the fresh cut on the feed
rim stops the bolt, additional pressure on the bolt can cause ramp. Bond in place in this position. The portion of the liner
the cartridge to fire before the bolt is fully closed and/or which replaces the drilled away section of feed ramp must now
locked. be filed to match the contour of the original feed ramp. The
If the rim recess in the liner is cut too deeply, excessive rest of the liner is filed to match the existing breech face. Now,
headspace will result. This can be corrected by lightly filing chamber headspace and cut extractor slots.
the rim edge you have just cut into the liner.
BONDING THE LINER
EXTRACTOR CUTS
There are two common ways to bond the barrel liner to the
As mentioned earlier, extractor cuts are best done prior to drilled barrel, Hi-Force 44 solder or epoxy. Soldering has
STOP
Before proceeding, look carefully at the gun you are work-
ing on. If you have followed the steps to this point, the liner
is fitted and ready for installation in the barrel, and the bar-
rel is back on the receiver. Read over the section following,
looking at the rifle in your hand and think through what you
will do and how you will do it; where the extra ACRAGLAS is
going to go and how youre going to clean it up. Then decide
if you want to leave the barrel attached to the receiver or
not. Some guns cause no problems. Others - those with fully FIGURE 10 - ACRAGLAS kit comes with everything needed.
enclosed bolts, very small ejection ports and no way to get at Mix according to Instructions, but leave out the floc and
the breech face of the barrel - simply must be disassembled walnut stain.
before attempting to put the liner in place. You may wish to use Epoxy Black coloring; however, the
ACRAGLAS line is so thin it is not really required. (Generally
2) Next, thoroughly coat all surfaces on the receiver and
about 114 oz. of mixed ACRAGLAS is more than enough. You
breech bolt with ACRAGLAS Release Agent, ACRA-RELEASE,
may wish to mix more for the first two or three liners you do,
RIG or paste wax. While the release agent is drying, assemble
just to be sure until you know what your usage will be.)
all the things you will need to mix, cool, apply and clean up the
ACRAGLAS. These specific supplies include: Next, place the thoroughly mixed cup of ACRAGLAS in
the pan of ice water prepared above. Be careful to keep
2.1) .22 caliber cleaning patches or similar, approxi-
water out of the ACRAGLAS as it can contaminate it and
mately 34" square. Anything bigger will tend to squeeze the
prevent it from hardening correctly.
ACRAGLAS out of itself as it enters the bore and prevent
you from getting a good, even coat of ACRAGLAS inside the 4) Wipe down a .22 caliber rifle cleaning rod and slotted tip
barrel. with TCE Cleaner/Degreaser and insert a clean .22 caliber
cloth patch (or similar) in the slotted tip of the cleaning rod.
2.2) A .22 caliber rifle cleaning rod with a slotted tip.
Dip the patch in the ACRAGLAS and run it through the bar-
2.3) A throw-away acid brush, or other small brush, for rel, remove the ACRAGLASsing patch, for if you pull it back
applying ACRAGLAS to the outside of the liner. (It must through, you will simply wipe off the ACRAGLAS you just
be stiff enough to adequately apply the cold ACRAGLAS applied. Recoat the patch and repeat this application step two
which gets to be about the consistency of cold syrup as it is or three times to ensure a good, heavy coating of ACRAGLAS
chilled.) inside the barrel.
2.4) An old T-shirt or similar clean material that can be 5) Thoroughly coat the outside surface of the liner with
torn into two or three rags and used to wipe up ACRAGLAS ACRAGLAS. We found a small acid brush ideal for doing this
runs and spills. DO NOT use paper towels, bench wipes or
such that will stick in the ACRAGLAS rather than clean it
up.
2.5) A bottle of regular cooking vinegar. We prefer white;
but have no reason for recommending it, other than it
seems to be readily available and doesnt smell quite as
bad as the good old-fashioned cider type. All work equally
well in removing ACRAGLAS that is still in the liquid state.
We know of no other chemical or solvent that is as readily
available or works as well as the acetic acid in vinegar for
removing a non-cured or kick over ACRAGLAS. It will not
work once the ACRAGLAS has started the cure cycle and
is no longer fluid. NOTE: Vinegar may damage some blued
finishes. Be Careful!
2.6) A small wood block to protect your hand when push-
ing the liner into the barrel.
FIGURE 11 - Liner coated with ACRAGLAS, ready to install.
2.7) A small container to hold ice water to cool the ACRA-
STOP
Vinegar and a soft cloth can be used to wipe off thin films
of ACRAGLAS from barrel faces, headspace gauges, out of
extractor slots, etc. This must be done while the ACRAGLAS
is still liquid. If set up, vinegar will not remove it.
7) Use a soft, cotton cloth, thoroughly soaked with Brownells FIGURE 12 - Liner bonded, new extractor being fitted using
TCE or Alcohol, to clean up any spills, runs or excess chambering reamer to cut proper case body and rim clearance
ACRAGLAS from the barrel, threads, end of the liner, the extractor.
cleaning rod and tip, and anywhere else you may have got- BONDING WITH SOLDER
ten it. (It also works extremely well to clean up your hands.)
Leave a small amount of ACRAGLAS around the muzzle end 1) Follow the same basic procedures for drilling the barrel,
of the liner to ensure a clean, filled joint between the liner checking the headspace and cutting clearance for extractors,
and the barrel once the ACRAGLAS sets. You may need to add feed ramps, etc. The same factors all apply.
this small amount just as the ACRAGLAS in the ice water is SOLDER: We recommend Brownells Hi-Force 44 Solder
finally beginning to kick over in order for it to stay in position because of the high silver-to-tin content, its superior holding
and not run out. The chilled ACRAGLAS will give you from qualities, ease of application and resistance to damage from
45 to 60 minutes during which to move and adjust the liner hot bluing. Use No. 4 Comet Flux with Hi-Force 44.
in the barrel. (We found we had plenty of time, and normally
took the still liquid ACRAGLAS out of the ice water long before HEAT SOURCE: Normally one propane torch puts out enough
it had started to thicken enough to prevent any additional heat to successfully tin the liner. But, to tin the barrel - and to
movement.) If you did not ice the ACRAGLAS, you will have insert the tinned liner into it, you will have to use 2 propane
only about twenty minutes total time from the first mixup to torches. This means a helper will have to play one torch over
the initial kick over when the ACRAGLAS is no longer fluid. the barrel while you work with the other and also insert the
We do not recommend that you ever attempt to ACRAGLAS liner. DONOT use Oxy-Acetylene to tin or solder. The flame
bond a barrel liner without slowing the kick over time of the is sooty and will quickly contaminate the solder or steel to the
ACRAGLAS by cooling it in ice water. You simply run the risk point that you cannot successfully flux, tin or solder.
of not having enough time to do the job correctly and it is not 2) The first step is to Tin the outside of the liner with solder.
worth taking that risk. Thoroughly degrease and lightly sand the outside of the liner.
8) If you have disassembled the gun in order to put in the Clamp the muzzle end of the liner between 2 blocks of wood in
new liner, now is the time to reassemble. Clean up the barrel a vertical position in your bench vise, chamber end up. Try to