Wildflowerdoll PDF

20 Wildflower doll
2014 Cutest Creations/Lali Doll Nursery
Supplies:
yard Laib Yala brand doll skin fabric or other cotton interlock knit fabric
1 pounds of wool batting
yard of 2 wide stockinette
38 gauge triangle felting needle
38 gauge star felting needle
Craft or upholstery thread
Ball point sewing machine needle (for sewing doll skin fabric)
All purpose sewing thread to match skin color
5 long doll needle
Hand sewing needle
Curved sewing needle
Embroidery thread in desired eye color
Red beeswax crayon
13 doll wig
Invisible ink marker
Round shoelace
Crochet hook
Where to get supplies:

Lali Dolls Etsy shop carry most of the harder to find supplies such as doll skin fabric, felting needles, wool, stockinette, pre-made doll
heads, Beeswax crayons, freckle pencils and threads to match skin colors. The other supplies can be found in most shops that carry
sewing and craft supplies. The doll wigs can be purchased as a pre-made doll wig from online shops such as Kemper dolls or Dolls
Parts Supplies or you could make your own doll wig. There are two different wig tutorials available in the Lali Dolls shop. There is a
tutorial for making professional doll wigs from weft here; and there's a pattern with tutorial for making sewn doll wigs from leather
hair here.
Note: Print all pattern pages at 100% with no page scaling. All seams are . The finished doll is approximately 19/20 if using Laib
Yala brand fabric. Other interlock doll skin fabrics are fine to use, however, the finished size and proportions of the doll could come
out different.
Wildflower doll pattern 2014 Cutest Creations - www.lalidollnursery.com Page #1 of 106

Tips/Tricks
It's recommended to read ahead before completing each step or if any confusion happens. This is a step
by step tutorial, so if something doesn't seem clear, it will most likely be obvious as you read further.
Before you begin, make sure you know a few basics. If you're unclear of any of the following stitches,
there are plenty of videos on Youtube that show them in action and that helps a lot.
Hand Sewing Tips
Ladder Stitch: Any parts that need stitched on such as the head, ears and also to close any openings on
the doll, such as the ears, you will need to use the ladder stitch, which is a hand stitch that allows you to
sew two separate pieces together from the outside of the fabric, leaving the stitches unseen. See Diagram
below.

Quilters Knot: Using the quilters knot allows you to pull knots to the inside of the toy so the knots are
hidden and so you don't have to cut the string directly at the knot, which will prevent knots working loose.
Here is an illustration of the quilter's knot.
You can then insert the needle into the fabric at the point of the knot and pull the needle out somewhere
else on the toy to pull the knot through to the inside of the fabric. All knots should be done in this way.
(photo is not part of this pattern, just used for demonstration).

Rolling the wool head
Begin by tying a knot in one end of the stockinette.
From the knot, the stockinette should be 14 cut off any excess length.

Open up the wool batting and tear off several strips approx. 18 long x 2- 4 wide (approx. 6 strips)
Tear off a 13x13 square to set aside for later.

Begin by taking one of the strips and wrapping it snuggly around your finger.
Remove from your finger and mold it into a ball shape, keep the tension tight.

Place the ball onto the next wool strip and roll tightly from one end to the other end. Always keep the ball
tension held tight so it doesn't spring loose.
The ball is now rolled up inside the strip of wool.

Tightly shaping the tubed roll back into a ball shape, take another wool strip and roll tightly from one end
to the other, same as before. Repeat this process until the wool ball measures approx 13 around.
When the wool ball measures about 13 around, you are ready for the next step. You want this wool ball to
be a bit larger at this stage than the finished size because it will become smaller once it is compacted into
the stockinette and smaller again after doing the head tying stage.
Take the 13 square piece of wool and place your wool ball in the middle of the square.

Flip over with the square on top of the wool ball.
Mold the square piece over top of the ball as shown here, gathering the ends of the square around the
bottom of the ball as shown here.

Keep hold of it firmly at the neck and insert into the stockinette.
The knot of the stockinette will be on the inside. While keeping a tight hold of the wrapped up wool ball,
use your other hand or have someone help you slide the stockinette over top of the ball.
Pull the stockinette over top of the wool ball, still keeping a tight hold on the neck area.
Measure around the head again. At this stage, it should be at around 13. Once you have the right size, you
can use a shoelace to temporarily tie at the neck. Do not let go of the tension until you have it tied. Pull the
string very tightly and tie in a bow to hold.
Next, you need a 4ft long piece of craft thread (2ft folded in half for double strength), now tie the craft
string a couple of times around the neck. Knot 3-4 times on the back of the neck. You can then remove the
shoelace.
The finished rolled wool head should look something like this. You can either knot the open end of the
stockinette or sew it closed.
Shaping the Head
The next steps will be tying the head to give it shaping. Begin by tying the shoelace around the middle of
the head. Pull the string in very tightly. This is marking the eye line. Tie the string with a temporary bow.
(The shoelace is just temporary to make it easier on your hands to pull in tightly).
Once you have it pulled in with the temporary shoelace, you can tie the strong craft thread in its place,
knot the string on the back side, then remove the shoelace.
The next string tying will go in the opposite direction from the eye line strings. Going from under the
chin area around to the top of the head as shown here. Do the same as before, pulling the shoelace in very
tightly, then replacing the shoelace with strong craft string and knot at the top of the head.
Next, you need to secure the strings in place. Using a curved needle and craft string, make an X at the
intersection of the two strings, as shown in the photo below.
An X has been drawn here to show where the stitching will go to keep the strings in place. Make sure to
go under and on top of the strings to hold them in place.
Next, secure the string tying under the chin by making a few stitches in/out and around the strings.
Secure the string on top of the head too. (In the area shown with the curved needle in it). The string that is
on back of the head (with the arrow pointing at it) will be pulled down using a crochet hook, as shown
below.
Using a crochet hook, slip the hook underneath the string on the back of the head and pull the string down
toward the neck string.
The string should be pulled down to here. You can then secure the string in place with a few stitches. The
finished head should measure around 12.5 13 around.
Felting the face

You'll need felting needles for the next part. Felting needles are very sharp and they have tiny barbs on them that pull
the wool into the area you poke them. The more you stab the wool into an area, the more compact and intertwined
the strands of wool become. You may discover your own preferences of needle gauges to use, so I recommend
trying a variety pack. I personally use a standard 38 gauge triangle point needle for rooting the wool into an area to
get a good strong foundation and get the basic shape. I make deep stabs with this needle to root the wool into the
head. I then go over the shape with a 38 gauge star point needle and make shallow stabs to firm up the shape. The
finished felted shapes need to be very firm, about as firm as a tennis ball. If you've never needle felted before, the
best way to learn is practice. Roll up a ball of wool batting and start felting by first making a firm ball. Notice what
happens when you felt, what happens with the different gauges of needles etc. Next, try felting shapes on top of your
wool ball, so they protrude from the ball. This will give you a good idea of what you will be doing with the doll's face.
Start by pinching off a small handful of wool.
Use the wool to cover the face part of the head (the section below the eye line and above the neck line).
Use the 38 gauge triangle felting needle to attach the layer of wool to the face. Make deep stabs into the
head to root the wool securely into the head. Felting needles are delicate. Make sure to stab it straight in
and out. The needle can break off with any slight bend.
The more you stab the wool with the needle, the more compact it will become against the face. Make
stabs over the entire surface of the face.
If you want a chubbier face, continue to add small layers of wool until you have the desired thickness.
The face section felted.
Use an invisible ink marker to mark out the face design. See below for more detailed instruction.
Draw a nose, top lip, bottom lip and chin. See below for more detailed instruction.
Felting the Chin: Use an invisible ink marker to draw a circle with about a 1 inch diameter. The circle should
be about above the neck string. Make sure it's centered.
Pinch off a small bit of wool.
Use the 38 gauge triangle needle to stab the wool into the chin circle area. Make deep stabs to root the
wool in place. The chin will be a mound, like a half sphere sticking out from the chin circle.
Continue stabbing the chin area until firm. Add more wool as needed.
Chin area filled in.
Felting the nose: Use the invisible ink marker to draw a circle of inch diameter just below the eye line
string. Make sure it's centered. Pinch a small amount of wool.
Using the 38 gauge triangle needle, felt the same way you did with the chin making deep stabs to root the
wool in place. The nose will also be like a half sphere sticking off the nose circle.
Nose is filled in.
Felting the top lip: Use the invisible ink marker to draw 2 lines angled out from the nose with a curved
smile line connecting the bottom of those two lines, as shown here. This shape will be roughly 1 wide
from the bottom of each line and from the bottom of the nose to the bottom of the smile line.
Drawing the top lip shape. It should begin from directly underneath the nose. It should be about 1 wide
1/2 long.
Take a small pinch of wool and use the triangle felting needle to root the wool into the top lip area. The
shape will be an upward slope from the nose to the smile. So the wool gets thicker the closer it gets to the
smile line.
Stab the needle from under the smile area upward.
Stab the needle from under the nose area downward.
The top lip should look similar to this shape when finished.
Felting the bottom lip: Just below the top lip, draw a small oval long by high.
Take a small pinch of wool.
Use the triangle needle to root the wool into the bottom lip area.
The face is sculpted. Now you need to firm up all of these shapes. They need to be about the firmness of a
tennis ball. Use the star needle to make shallow stabs into the wool to make it really firm. If you need to
add more wool into an area for firmness, do so in very small amounts.
This is a side view of the finished face.
Front view of the felted face.
Cutting out the pieces
All parts are cut out from cotton interlock knit fabric. Make sure that the arrows on the pattern pieces
match up in the right direction with the grain in the fabric. The grain direction is the vertical lines you can
see in the fabric. The stretch direction is the maximum stretch of the fabric and goes opposite of the
grain direction.
From doll skin: Cut 1 Body Back, 1 Body Front, 1 Body Bottom, 4 Arms (with 2 of those reversed), 4 Legs,
1 Head Covering (placed on fold), 4 Feet, 2 rectangle layers for ears.
Sewing the parts
The body front piece will be sewn to the body bottom piece.
Place the body bottom on top of the body top with right-sides together along the straight edges, as shown
here.
Use an invisible ink marker to mark from each side of the body (shown clearly below).
These lines mark how far to sew from the sides of the body inward (sewing lines marked below).
This shows where you will sew the body top to the body bottom.
Attach the body top to the body bottom where marked.
Body top and body bottom are attached. (The middle section intentionally left open to later insert legs).
Fold the body bottom down.
The body back piece will be sewn to the body front piece.
Place the body top on top of the body bottom with right-sides together.
Sew the shoulders together, as shown here. Repeat for the other shoulder.
Next, sew from under the right arm flap all the way around to underneath the left arm flap.
Body front is sewn to body back.
Turn the body right-side out and set aside.
Put two arm pieces right-sides together. Sew around the arm, leaving the top edge open.
Turn the arm right-side out. Repeat for the other arm.
To sew the back sides of the legs, one individual leg piece will be attached to one individual foot piece.
Place the foot piece on top of the leg piece with right-sides together, lining up the straight edges, as
shown here.
Attach the foot to the leg by sewing across the straight edge.
Repeat for the other back leg.
Fold the foot pieces down, as shown here. Set aside.
For the front sides of the legs, one individual leg piece will be partially attached to one individual foot
piece.
Place the foot piece on top of the leg piece with right-sides together, lining up along the straight edge, as
shown here.
Use an invisible ink marker to mark in from each side of the foot, as shown here.
From the right edge of the foot, sew starting from the end of the edge stopping at the mark.
Then from the left side of the foot, sew starting at the mark stopping at the left edge.
Front side of leg sewn to front side of foot with the middle section left open, as shown here.
Fold the front side feet down, as shown here. Repeat for other front leg and foot.
The leg front piece will be sewn to the leg back piece.
Put the front leg on top of the back leg with right-sides together, as shown here.
Sew all the way around the leg, leaving the top open.
Leg sewn.
Turn right-side out. Repeat for the other leg.
To sew the head covering piece, fold it in half with right-sides together, as shown here. Use the invisible ink
marker to mark the start and stop sewing points. The start point is here at the bottom right edge.
The stop point is about one inch beyond the neck, as shown here (also shown on pattern piece).
Sew from the start point to the end point on the head piece.
Head covering piece sewn.
Turn the head covering piece right-side out.
To make the ears, you need the two rectangle fabric layers marked ears, place right-sides together. Then,
place the ear shape on top of the fabric with the straight edge of the ear lined up with the straight edge of
the fabric, as shown here.
Use an invisible ink marker to trace around the edge of the ear.
Trace the other ear.
Sew directly on the lines for the ears.
Ears sewn.
Cut out the ears, leaving a seam.
Ears cut out.
Turn right-side out.
Parts all sewn together. You should have 1 head covering, 2 ears, 2 arms, 1 body, 2 legs with feet attached.
Stuffing the parts
Take the wool head, place the bottom end of the wool head (the muff end below the neck string) into the
bottom end of the head covering piece. The seam of the head covering should be on the back side of the
wool head. Pull the head covering fabric firmly upward. The neck of the head covering should rest at the
neck string on the wool head (shown with arrow).
The back side of the head should look like this.
The fabric around the neck should look like this without any wrinkles or loose skin. If you see any wrinkles
around the neck at this point, pull the fabric upward firmly to pull the wrinkles out from the neck.
Thread a needle with strong craft or upholstery thread. Knot the string to the back of the head covering
fabric at the point where the stitching stops, as shown here.
Ladder-stitch the rest of the head covering piece. Keep in mind it needs to be stitched up tightly to avoid
wrinkles and loose skin. When you get toward the top of the head, the fabric will become more bulky, you
can trim away some of the fabric if needed. Leave the last 1 to 2 inches unstitched at the top of the head.
This is what the head should look like from the side once stitched up. Notice the fabric at the very top of
the head is left unstitched. Use a strong craft or upholstery thread to tie firmly around the neck area.
The string is now tied around the neck. There should be no wrinkles or loose skin. Secure the bottom of
the skin fabric to the muff end of the wool head with a few stitches, as shown here.
Of course you can stuff the parts however you prefer. I am just going to go through the steps of how I
stuff this doll. The feet are stuffed in thin compacted layers. Start with a small pinch of wool.
Use the opening at the top of the foot to stuff the wool into the bottom of the feet.
Take another pinch of wool and add directly on top of the last layer. Compact the two layers together. You
can use your fingers or a stuffing stick.
Continue to add small layers of wool to the foot, compacting as you go until the foot section is
completely stuffed.
Foot stuffed.
To stuff the leg: Tear of a strip of wool about 10 x 13.
Very tightly roll up the strip of wool.
You may want to make a few stabs with the felting needle as you roll to help hold the wool together.
Continue to roll the strip all the way to the end, keeping a tight hold of the wool, felting as you go, if
needed.
Once you've rolled all the way to the end of the strip, hold the roll down, so it doesn't spring loose.
Then use the felting needle to stab all over the wool so it stays in a very tight roll. If for some reason the
roll of wool isn't thick enough to fill the leg, you can add another small layer of wool on top of this one.
Stuff the roll of wool into the leg. It may be easier to rotate the roll as you work it down to the bottom of
the leg.
It helps if you fold part of the leg down first.
Now the roll of wool is inserted into the leg. There will probably be some excess at the top. Leave that
there for now. (If you have trouble stuffing in one roll, you could instead stuff in smaller rolls stacked on
top of each other).
Bend the foot section upward, to a 90 degree angle with the leg.
While holding the foot up, as shown here. Use a needle threaded with upholstery thread to ladder-stitch the
foot to the bottom of the leg to keep it in this position, which also closes the opening at the foot.
Foot stitched in place.
Make sure the wool is pushed down into the leg as far as it will go. Pull the fabric from the leg up as far as
it will go. Then, cut off any excess wool sticking out from the top of the leg. Keep in mind you need to be
able to sew the opening shut.
Pinch the two sides of the leg opening together and sew closed, as shown.
The leg is now finished. Repeat for the other leg.
The hand will be stuffed in the same way as the foot was. Take a small pinch of wool.
Stuff the wool all the way down to the bottom of the hand.
Continue stuffing the hand in thin layers compacting one layer on top of the other until the hand is
completely filled.
For the thumb, roll up a small tight ball of wool.
Stuff the small ball into the thumb area of the hand.
The arm section is stuffed in the same way as the leg was. Tear off a strip of wool about 8 x 12. Roll the
wool up into a tight roll. Felt to hold the wool in place.
Stuff the roll into the arm
Push the wool as far down toward the hand as it will go. Pull the fabric up toward the opening as far as it
will go. Trim off any excess wool, keeping in mind, you need to sew the opening closed.
Close the opening of the arm by sewing a stitch all the way around the arm opening to gather it closed.
Arm finished. Repeat for other arm.
Next, the head will be attached to the body.
Insert the bottom section of the head into the top of the body opening, as shown here.
The body opening should be pulled all the way up to the neck string on the head.
Turn the top edge of the body opening inward and then ladder-stitch the body to the head.
Head attached to body.
From the opening at the bottom of the body, pull the body fabric up to the neck, so you just have the muff
section of the head showing, as shown here.
To stuff the body, you need a strip of wool about 8 x 20.
Wrap the strip of wool around the muff end of the head.
If the body isn't thick enough, add another layer of wool around it.
Pull the body fabric down over top of the wool.
Make a few stitches at the bottom edges of the body in the middle of the body front and body bottom to
hold the wool inside. If you need to add more stuffing to the body, now is the time to do it. Because of the
way the stuffing was wrapped around the muff inside the body, there is a small hollow area in the center
of the stuffing that more wool can be added to if needed. I usually use a wooden stick or unsharpened
pencil to help poke small bits of wool into the area.
These stitches are just for holding the two sides together. They will be removed or stitched over later.
Assembly
Thread a needle with upholstery thread. The legs are stitched by hand using ladder-stitch. Attach one leg to
the right side of the body. The front of the leg is stitched to the body front, the back of the leg is stitched
to the body bottom.
The stitching begins at the far right, as shown here.
The leg is attached to the body opening on the front and back side of the leg. Repeat to attach the other
leg.
The middle section between the two legs can then be ladder-stitched closed as well. You can add dimples
to the knees if desired.
To attach the arms, turn the open edges of the arm tabs inward . The end of the arm pokes just inside
the arm tab. Ladder-stitch the arm to the arm tab. Repeat for other arm.
Use the invisible ink marker to draw a small circle for the belly button.
See the diagram below to learn how the belly button was sculpted.
The purple circle represents the circle for the belly button. Using skin colored thread, attach the thread to
the outer edge of the belly button (marked A). Insert the needle into the belly button coming out at point
B. Bring the needle to point C and insert it coming out at point D. Continue in this way until you are back
where you started.
To make bottom cheeks, use the invisible ink marker to draw a center line, as shown here.
Thread the long needle with upholstery thread and knot it securely at the top of the line, as shown here.
Insert the needle at the point of the knot at the top of the line and coming out at the bottom of the line, as
shown here.
Bring the needle back up to the top of the line again, insert needle, coming out at the bottom of the line
again, as shown here. Repeat once more.
And then pinching the two ends of the line together, as shown here, pull the string.
Still squeezing, do a quilter's knot at the bottom of the line, as shown here.
Bottom is sculpted.
Stuff the ears with a small amount of wool.
Turn the open edges of the ear inward and ladder-stitch closed.
Pin the ears to the sides of the head and ladder-stitch along the front side and back side of the ears.
Finishing the face
To finish the face, thread a long doll needle with upholstery thread. The needle is threaded as a single
strand, leaving a tail of thread overhanging to keep it from pulling through the eye of the needle. There is
no knot in the thread.
Insert the needle into the head at area just past the end of the right side of the smile line that you felted
onto the head earlier. Bring the needle out somewhere at the top of the head, as shown here. Remove the
long needle leaving about an 8 tail of thread at the top of the head.
Thread the long needle back onto the other end of the thread that's coming from the mouth area. Insert
the needle into the head just past the left side end of the smile line. Bring the needle out at the top of the
head near the other thread at the top of the head.
Pull the two strings at the top of the head. The string at the mouth should go in between the top and
bottom lips, as shown here. Holding the strings pulled upward, knot the strings together to hold. You can
do the same for underneath the bottom lip if desired or you can leave the mouth like this, whichever you
prefer.
To add color to the lips and cheeks, color onto a scrap of fabric using a red beeswax crayon (or any red
crayon will work).
Gently rub the colored on fabric over the lips.
Rub the colored on fabric gently over the cheeks.
Lips and cheeks blushed.
Use pins or invisible ink marker to mark where you want the eyes to go.
Take a long length of eye colored embroidery thread. Notice there are 6 individual strands that make up
the one thick layer of embroidery thread. You are only going to use one strand to embroider the eyes.
Pull out one strand of the embroidery thread. Thread it onto the long doll needle. The needle is threaded as
a single strand, leaving a tail of thread overhanging to keep it from pulling through the eye of the needle.
There is no knot in the thread.
Insert the needle into the right eye area bringing it out somewhere at the top of the head. Remove the
long needle, leaving about a 6 tail of thread at the top of the head.
Thread a smaller needle onto the other end of the embroidery thread.
Fill in the eye area with embroidery thread by inserting the needle on the right-side of the eye, coming out
on the left side of the eye. Bring the embroidery thread over top of the eye insert it back into the right-
side of the eye again, coming out at the left side again.
Repeat this process starting at the top of the eye working to the bottom of the eye until the area is
completely filled in.
Once the eye is complete, remove the small needle and thread the long needle back on. Insert the long
needle into the eye area coming out back at the top of the head near the other eye string. Knot the two
eye strings together. Repeat for the other eye.
Eyes embroidered.
The opening on top of the head can be closed by pulling it toward the back of the head. Use upholstery
thread to stitch it closed, as shown here.
The finished doll. The panties pattern is included with this pattern purchase in a separate file.
For hair, you need a 13 wig. You have a few options for hair, you can purchase a pre-made doll wig from
online shops such as Kemper dolls or Dolls Parts Supplies, you can make your own doll wig from weft or
lambskin (we sell tutorials for making these wigs in our Etsy shop). Or you can make a yarn wig by
crocheting a cap to fit snuggly to the dolls head and then looping individual yarn strands to the cap. (We
sell these crochet caps in our shop) To attach the wig to the doll, put the wig onto the head, use matching
color thread to attach the wig to the dolls head. Sew the wig around the outside edge of the wig and a few
spots in the middle of the wig.
You can add freckles to your doll by using a brown colored pencil. The tip should be sharpened to a fine
point. Wet the tip of the colored pencil and dot onto the cheeks of the doll.
Copyright Notice: This pattern and all its contents are copyright protected by Cutest Creations. This pattern or its contents
or photo's may not be copied or shared with anyone outside your household. Permission is not given to mass produce toys
made from this pattern for sale. Any individual given permission to sell dolls made from this pattern must include a
statement in their listings that the doll was made from a Cutest Creations pattern.

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20 Wildflower doll

2014 Cutest Creations/Lali Doll Nursery

Where to get supplies:

Wildflower doll pattern 2014 Cutest Creations - www.lalidollnursery.com Page #1 of 106

Hand Sewing Tips

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Begin by tying a knot in one end of the stockinette.

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Tear off a 13x13 square to set aside for later.

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The ball is now rolled up inside the strip of wool.

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Felting the face

The face section felted.

Pinch off a small bit of wool.

Nose is filled in.

Stab the needle from under the smile area upward.

Take a small pinch of wool.

Front view of the felted face.

Attach the body top to the body bottom where marked.

Fold the body bottom down.

Turn the body right-side out and set aside.

Repeat for the other back leg.

Turn the head covering piece right-side out.

Sew directly on the lines for the ears.

Cut out the ears, leaving a seam.

Turn right-side out.

Stuffing the parts

To stuff the leg: Tear of a strip of wool about 10 x 13.

The leg is now finished. Repeat for the other leg.

For the thumb, roll up a small tight ball of wool.

Arm finished. Repeat for other arm.

Pull the body fabric down over top of the wool.

The stitching begins at the far right, as shown here.

Stuff the ears with a small amount of wool.

Gently rub the colored on fabric over the lips.

Lips and cheeks blushed.

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