PRACTICAL 5

AIM
To study printer assembly and elementary fault detection in DMP
and Laser printer.
OBJECTIVES
This Practical will help the students to learn about various printer
components & working of printer

EQUIPMENTS / INSTRUMENTS / SYSTEM REQUIRED

Dot-Matrix printer.

THEORY
DMP are the most popular types for use with PCs. They have a printer head that
is pulled horizontally across the paper from left to right and back again using a
rubber belt and electric motor. Each character is generated from an array on
matrix of dots. The printer head consists of tiny pins that are operated electro
magnetically. As head moves across the paper, the pins move rapidly in and out
under the control of the printer electrons. Characters are formed when the pins
strike the ribbon, leaving dots on paper.
The resolution and quality of DMP is determined by the number of pins
in the printer head. Usually the head is of ninepins. Most of the printers have a
lever that adjusts the distance of the printer head from the roller to
accommodate different thickness of stationary. Another level controls the pinch
rollers that allow the use of single sheet, non-sprocket fed paper. Price is
obviously a major factor of contributing to the popularity of DMPs .

PRINTERS ARE CLASSIFIED INTO VARIOUS TYPES:

1. IMPACT AND NON-IMPACT PRINTERS::
In an impact printer the character is formed by physical contact of print head
against the ink ribbon onto the paper. In the non-impact printers, the character
can be pulled at a time they are known as serial.
2.CHARACTER AND LINE PRINTERS:
Printers, which print one character at a time, are called character printers and the
printers, which print one line at a time, are called line printers.
Printers have three major assemblies:
Power supply
Control mechanism
Printing mechanism

POWER SUPPLY:
It consists of DC regulator for safety logic and a filter. The safety logic sheets of
the power supply in abnormal condition prevent any damage to device.

CONTROL MECHANISM:
This subassembly consists of one or more PCBs. the CE provides following
circuits:
Up address latch
RAM and ROM
Address decoder
RESET logic
Head driver
CR and CF monitor drive
Interface drive/receiver
The reset signal is generated either during power on or when init is
recognized, received from PC. It is sent to various logic in the printer to
perform the init sequence.
Moving the printer head to the home PCs
Cleaning buffer
Resetting the microprocessor
Providing online/ready status

PRINTER MECHANISM:
Function pattern
causage assembly
Printer head
Paper fed mechanism
Home rents
8 pocket on it
Paper end session

LASER PRINTER: -
The main parts of the laser printer are:
1. Charging electrode
2. Cleaning rode
3. Photoreceptor drum
4. Toner
5. Rotating hexagonal mirror
6. Laser scanning unit
Laser beam produced by the laser-scanning unit passed through the character
generator box. The responsibility of the character generator box is allow or not
to allow the laser beam to pass through according to the character. This beam is
strike to the rotating hexagonal mirror, which deflect the beam towards the
drum. Drum is already positively charged and the surface at which the beam
strikes becomes negatively charged. Toner is also positively charged. The
character that we want to print on the paper is obtained on the drum due to
beam. The negatively charged portion of the drum attracts the positively
charged toner particles, and the image is produced on the paper. Then this paper
is passed through the heating section so that the image becomes permanent.

Algorithm: NA

Procedure: NA

Program Code: NA

Observation: NA

Calculation: NA

Graphs/Curves/Phasor diagrams: NA

Result: NA
 PRACTICAL 6
AIM
To assemble a PC
OBJECTIVES
This Practical will help the students to learn how to assemble various
hardware components of CPU.

EQUIPMENTS / INSTRUMENTS / SYSTEM REQUIRED

Motherboard, RAM, ROM, SMPS, Connector Cables, CPU, Mouse,
Keyboard etc.

THEORY
Steps:

Step 1: Installing the motherboard

Make sure you have all the components in place and a nice, clean and big
enough place to work with. Put your antic-static wrist strap on to prevent your
components from getting affected. Make sure your hands are clean before
starting. First we will be installing the motherboard which is a piece of cake to
install.

Open the side doors of the cabinet

Lay the cabinet on its side
Put the motherboard in place
Step 2: Installing the CPU

CPU is the heart of a computer so make sure you handle it properly and do not
drop it or mishandle it. Also try not to touch the pins frequently so that they do
not get dirty. Get hold of your motherboard and CPU manual. You need to place
the CPU on the dotted white patch of the motherboard in a particular fashion for
it to fit properly. There is a golden mark on the CPU to help you assist. Consult
both your motherboard and CPU manual to see which position it fits exactly or
you could also use try all the 4 positions.
Lift the CPU lever on the motherboard
Place the CPU properly on the motherboard
Pull down the lever to secure the CPU in place
Got the thermal compound? Now is the time to use it. Take small amount of it
and carefully apply it on the top surface of the processor. Be careful not to put it
on the neighboring parts of the motherboard. If you do so clean it immediately
using the cloth.

Step 3: Installing the heat sink

After installing the processor we proceed to installing the heat sink. There are
different kinds of heat sinks that are bundled with the processor and each has a
different way of installation. Look into your CPU manual for instructions on
how to install it properly.
Place the heat sink on the processor
Put the jacks in place
Secure the heat sink with the lever
After this you will need to connect the cable of the heat sink on the
motherboard. Again look into the motherboard manual on where to connect it
and then connect it to the right port to get your heat sink in operational mode.
Step 4: Installing the RAM

Installing the RAM is also an easy job. The newer RAMs ie. DDR RAMs are
easy to install as you dont have to worry about placing which side where into
the slot. The older ones, SDRAMs are plagued by this problem.

If you want to use dual channel configuration then consult your manual on
which slots to use to achieve that result.

Push down the RAM into the slot

Make sure the both the clips hold the RAM properly
Step 5: Installing the power supply

We will now install the power supply as the components we install after this
will require power cables to be connected to them. There is not much to be done
to install a PSU.
Place the PSU into the cabinet
Put the screws in place tightly

Step 6: Installing the video card

First you will need to find out whether your video card is AGP or PCI-E. AGP
graphics cards have become redundant and are being phased out of the market
quickly. So if you bought a spanking new card it will certainly be a PCI-E.
Remove the back plate on the cabinet corresponding to the graphics card
Push the card into the slot
Secure the card with a screw
Plug in the power connection from PSU (if required)
High-end graphics cards need dedicated power supply and if your graphics card
needs one then connect the appropriate wire from PSU into the graphics card.
Step 7: Installing the hard disk

Hard disk is another fragile component of the computer and needs to handled
carefully.

Place the hard drive into the bay

Secure the drive with screws
Connect the power cable from PSU
Connect the data cable from motherboard into the drive
If your hard drive is a SATA one then connect one end of SATA cable into the
motherboard and other into the SATA port on the hard disk. If your hard disk is
PATA type then use the IDE cable instead of the SATA cable.

Step 8: Installing optical drive

The installation an optical drive is exactly similar to an hard drive.

Place the optical drive into the bay

Drive in the screws
Connect the power cable and data cable
Step 9: Connecting various cables

First we will finish setting up internal components and then get on to the
external ones. You will need to consult your motherboard manual for finding
the appropriate port for connecting various cables at the right places on the
motherboard.
Connect the large ATX power connector to the power supply port on your
motherboard
Next get hold of the smaller square power connector which supplies
power to the processor and connect it to the appropriate port by taking
help from your motherboard manual
Connect the cabinet cables for power,reset button in the appropriate port
of the motherboard
Connect the front USB/audio panel cable in the motherboard
Plug the cable of cabinet fans
You are done with installing the internal components of the PC. Close the side
doors of the cabinet and get it upright and place it on your computer table. Get
the rest of the PC components like monitor, keyboard, mouse, speakers etc.
which we will connect now.

Connect the VGA cable of the monitor into the VGA port
If mouse/keyboard are PS/2 then connect them to PS/2 ports or else use
the USB port
Connect the speaker cable in the audio port
Plug in the power cable from PSU into the UPS
Also plug in the power cable of the monitor
You are now done with setting up your PC. Power on and see your rig boot to
glory.

Step 10: Installing the OS and drivers

We are done with the hardware part. Now get your favorite OS disks ready and
the CD that came with your motherboard.

Set the first boot device to CD/DVD drive in BIOS

Pop in the OS disk
Reboot the PC
Install the OS
Install drivers from motherboard CD (applicable only to Windows OS)

Abbrevations used above:

CPU - Central Processing Unit

RAM - Random Memory Access
DDR -Double Data Rate
SDRAM - Synchronous Dynamic Random Access Memory
PSU -Power Supply Unit
AGP - Accelerated Graphics Port
PCI-E - Peripheral Component Interconnect- Express
SATA - Serial Advanced Technology Attachment
PATA -Parallel Advanced Technology Attachment
IDE - Integrated Drive Electronics
ATX - Advanced Technology Extended
USB - Universal System Bus
VGA - Video Graphics Array
PS/2 - Personal System/2

Algorithm: NA

Procedure: NA

Program Code: NA

Observation: NA

Calculation: NA

Graphs/Curves/Phasor diagrams: NA

Result: NA

Conclusion: After performed this practical student will have knowledge of

how to assemble a pc.
 PRACTICAL 7
AIM
To solder and de-solder various components.
OBJECTIVES
This Practical will help the students to learn how to Solder various
hardware components if its circuit breakdown during working & student
will also learn about Desolder the components.
EQUIPMENTS / INSTRUMENTS / SYSTEM REQUIRED
A soldering iron, device to remove solder
THEORY
Step 1: Equipment

Desoldering requires two main things: a soldering iron and a device to

remove solder. Soldering irons are the heat source used to melt solder.
Irons of the 15W to 30W range are good for most electronics/printed
circuit board work. Anything higher in wattage and you risk damaging
either the component or the board. Note that you should not use so-called
soldering guns. These are very high wattage and generate most of their
heat by passing an electrical current through a wire. Because of this, the
wire carries a stray voltage that could damage circuits and components.
The choice of your solder removing device is also important. There are
two main ones; vacuum pumps (solder suckers) and solder wick. They
both do the same thing, so what you use will depend on your personal
opinion or experiences. I suggest keeping both on hand though, as you
may find that each works well in different situations. Solder suckers
usually look like large syringes. There is a spring loaded plunger, and a
button to release it. The plunger is pushed down. When you want to suck
up the solder, you position the nozzle over the molten solder and hit the
button. The plunger moves up, creating a vacuum and sucking up the
solder. Solder wick, on the other hand, has no moving parts. It looks like
wick used in oil lamps, except that it is made of copper. To use it, you put
the wick over the joint and heat it. One thing to note about solder wick is
that it is expensive, and because it is expendable, a solder sucker may be
a better choice if you plan to do a lot of desoldering. I personally prefer to
 use a sucker to remove most of the solder, then finish up with the wick.
Remember that when desoldering, the resin in the solder and the coating
on the board may releases fumes. These fumes are harmful to your eyes
and lungs. Therefore, always work in a well ventilated area. Hot solder is
also dangerous. Be sure not to let it splash around because it will burn
you almost instantly. Eye protection is also advised.
Step 2: Surface Preparation

There isn't really too much to worry about when removing solder. Just
make sure to get any grease, varnish or glue off the joint before you start
heating. If you don't, you will probably foul the tip of your soldering iron
pretty quickly.
Step 3: Apply Heat

Lay the iron tip so that it rests against both the component lead and the
board. Normally, it takes one or two seconds to heat the component up
enough to solder, but larger components and larger soldering pads on the
board can increase the time.
Step 4: Remove Solder

Solder Sucker

Push down the plunger so it locks into place. Usually, you will feel or
hear a click. If the tool has been used before, a small "plug" of solder may
be pushed out of the nozzle. Once the solder sucker is cocked, put the
nozzle into the molten solder and press the button. The plunger will pop
up quickly take the solder with it. This should remove most, if not all, the
solder from the joint. Don't worry if the tip softens a little, but don't melt
it. You may need to repeat this step a few times in order to get all the
solder.
Solder Wick

You will probably want to heat the wick first. Before applying any heat to
the joint, lay the wick over it and put the tip of the iron on the wick. It
will take a second or two to heat up, but once it is hot you will feel the
wick slide. You should also see the solder flow into it. You probably
won't have to repeat this step. Once a section of wick is filled with solder,
it is used up and must be replaced. Since the wick comes on a spool, all
 you need to do is cut off the used sections and take some more off the
spool.
Step 5: Clean Up

You may wish to clean the solder pad and surrounding pad to remove any
resin and left over solder. There are commercial products available to
take off the resin, but 000 steel wool works well of you are careful.
Damaged Solder Pads

Occasionally, you may damage a solder pad in your efforts. Usually, this just
involves lifting the pad from the board, but not actually separating the traces. If
this is the case, then it should be fine if you just leave it. If this is not the case
and you actually break the trace, you will need to use a small piece of wire to
connect the pad to where it is supposed to go. Just follow the trace until you
find a suitable location for soldering. Usually, this is the next closest solder
joint. Then, jumper the wire between the two points.
Tips and Tricks

Desoldering is just like soldering in that it is something that needs to be

practiced. These tips should help you become successful quickly.

1. Use heatsinks. Heatsinks are a must for the leads of sensitive

components such as ICs and transistors. If you don't have a clip on
heatsink, then a pair of pliers is a good substitute.
2. Keep the iron tip clean. A clean iron tip means better heat conduction.
Use a wet sponge to clean the tip between joints.
3. Check the pads. Use a continuity tester to check to make sure you did
not damage the pad or trace when you removed the solder. If you did,
then follow the steps above to fix it.
4. Use the proper iron. Remember that bigger joints will take longer to
heat up with a 30W iron than with a 150W iron. While 30W is good for
printed circuit boards and the like, higher wattages are great when
desoldering heavy connections, such as those to a chassis.
5. Use both a solder sucker and solder wick. Use a solder sucker to
remove the majority of the solder, then follow up with the wick to finish
things up.

Algorithm: NA

Procedure: NA
Program Code: NA

Observation: NA

Calculation: NA

Graphs/Curves/Phasor diagrams: NA

Result: NA

Conclusion: After performed this practical student will be able to solder various
motherboard parts. He will also have knowledge about how to perform
desoldering.