COMBINATION

ROUTER TABLE

2015 Cruz Bay Publishing, Inc.

Shop
Project

combination Router Table

A flip-up top adds a new angle to table routing. The result is a unique,
two-in-one workstation for the ultimate in shaping and joinery.
Installing a router upside down in a router Taking advantage of each configura- An add-on mortising jig makes set-
table is a surefire way to upgrade any tion doesnt mean you need two separate ting up and cutting mortises a breeze, as
workshop. The versatility of a router table tools. The top of this router table flips up shown in the middle photo on the next
opens up new options for improving the to convert from a standard router table to page. Both of these accessories stow away
fit and finish of your projects. a horizontal table in just a few seconds. neatly in the storage space below the top.
However that isnt the only way to get VERSATILE ACCESSORIES. To support the Despite its size, building this router
more from a router. A router mounted workpiece in the horizontal mode, you table is straightforward and breaks down
horizontally offers some big benefits for replace the fence with the adjustable into easy-to-manage components. Youll
certain tasks, like creating raised panels table shown in the photo above. Thats end up with a combination machine that
and cutting mortises and tenons. all you need for most shaping tasks. expands the capabilities of your router.

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 Construction Overview / OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 34"W x 4714"H x 3014"D (Horizontal setup)
34"W x 4012"H x 24"D (Standard setup)

Three-layer top
stays flat for
heavy-duty use Plywood quadrants allow top
to pivot between horizontal
and vertical configurations
Registration holes
are used to mount horizontal table
in one of two different positions

Combination track
Add-on table includes miter track and T-track
is used for horizontal T-nuts are used
for added versatility to attach router
routing operations
table fence
and horizontal table

Knob locks table

in upright position
for horizontal
routing operations

NOTE: Plans for Table

router table fence are rotates
included on page 10 on steel
pin

Inner knobs are Outer knobs attach

used to lock down the horizontal table
the horizontal table to the tabletop
once you have
dialed in the settings Large hand wheel lets you
fine-tune the position of the table
in relation to the router bit NOTE: Router table base
is made from MDF
and provides a generous
NOTE: For hardware sources, turn to page 12 amount of enclosed storage

{ A large, thick table and a simple, { The add-on mortising jig and stops { The storage area below holds the
adjustable fence tackle most router make cutting smooth, accurate router table accessories or other
table tasks with ease. mortises a walk in the park. gear you need to organize.

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 NOTE: Pedestal
CASE TOP a.
is glued up from 1!/4
two layers of MDF B

5#/4 !/4
!/2 E
CASE SIDE
A #/4
31
TOP B A
CASE BACK VIEW
A
D #/4

33 CASE SHELF b.
19!/4 C

14!/2 B
NOTE: All
parts are !/4
#/4" MDF 15 A
CASE BOTTOM
B FRONT D
VIEW

31
15 !/4
19!/2
C #/4
PEDESTAL
E
E 33
22 1!/2"-rad.
d. #/4 !/4"
round- 10#/4 #8 x 2" Fh
!/4 B over woodscrew
SIDE c.
VIEW 3!!/16 SIDE VIEW 1!/2"-rad.
D
A B
2
E

A rock-solid CASE
A E
!/2"-dia.
1!/4

A router table that can be configured for
horizontal or vertical use requires a sure-
footed stance both when routing and
while making the transition from one
mode to the other. That job falls mainly to
the case and pedestal of the router table.
The case uses two approaches for cre-
ating stability. First, the overall structure
of the case creates a wide footprint that
provides a good balance no matter how
the router table is set up. This large case
also lets you sneak in some storage space
for the accessories that are added later.
The choice of materials also plays a role
in how well the case works. I used MDF
here. And if youve ever lifted a sheet of
MDF, you know why it can make a case
feel more solid. The mass of MDF offers a
nice side benefit, as well. It helps dampen
vibration from the router.
SIMPLE CONSTRUCTION. The drawing above
shows how the case is assembled. Rab-
bets and dadoes join the parts together.
But this isnt your typical square box
case. The sides extend well above the

How-To: CUT RABBETS & DADOES top. This open space is used primar-
ily for housing the parts that allow the
tabletop to change positions.
1 2 Flip
B Figures 1 and 2 highlight the methods
workpiece for cutting rabbets and dadoes at the
to cut matching
A B dadoes table saw. These details help anchor parts
together and increase the glue surface for
END VIEW a. each joint. You put this setup to use in
a. #/4 1!/4 #/4 cutting the joints in the sides to accept
END the top, bottom, shelf, and back.
Aux. VIEW
rip fence In addition, the top and bottom have a
!/4 !/4
rabbet along the back to capture the case
back. A set of dadoes in the top anchor
two smaller assemblies shown on the next
Rabbets. An auxiliary fence allows you Dadoes. Take your time to size the page. A groove in the back panel allows it
to position the fence alongside the dado dado blade to match the thickness to interlock with the shelf.
blade without damaging the rip fence. of the MDF for snug-fitting joints. A FEW DETAILS. Before getting out the glue
bottle and clamps, I drilled a couple of

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 a. !/2"-dia. 3!%/16
8
holes in the sides that serve as SIDE 2
the hinge and locking points VIEW 3!/2 14!/2
for the tabletop. I also relieved 1!/4
the upper corner of the sides F 1!/2"-dia. #/4 12#/4
with a radius, as shown in OUTER
DIVIDER
detail c on the previous 6!/4 F
page. This allows the top to pivot freely. G 13
ADD A PEDESTAL. After assembling the case,
1!/2"-rad. H
14!/2 I
you can move on to making the pedestal. F
SMALL SHELF UPPER
Its made up of two layers of MDF and 9 BACK
INNER
extends out in front of the case to improve DIVIDER
G Magnetic catch
balance, primarily when the table is set up and strike b. TOP VIEW
for horizontal operations. 1!/2 w/screws !/4 !/4
9!/8
K
15
I
CASE WRAP UP
The open, upper portion of the case is G F

where youll turn your attention to next. 1!/4

Here, you need to add two small assem- UPPER A
J
DOOR
blies next to the case sides, as shown in K
the drawing at right. These offer addi- NOTE: All
parts are c. FRONT VIEW
tional storage. The space between them #/4" MDF
will house the router. 15!%/16
FAMILIAR JOINERY. Here again, all the parts
are joined with dadoes and rabbets. G F
3!/2
LOWER
Keep in mind that youre making two DOOR !/4
mirror-image assemblies. J
H #/4
The dividers fit into the dadoes in the 19#/4
case top. This creates a narrow pocket
between the outer divider and the case
Continuous
side, as shown in detail b. This will hinge
house a large, arc-shaped plywood w/screws
panel added later that allows the e.
tabletop to pivot and be locked in d. TOP
TOP VIEW
!/16 Catch
VIEW
place. An overlapping back panel
encloses the space.
DRILL SOME HOLES. The outer divid- K J !/2
ers have a pair of holes that line
up with the holes in the case sides. !/4" 1 2!/2
roundover #/4
I used the holes in the sides and a
drill bit as guides for marking the
locations in the dividers. Then I
drilled the holes at the drill press. Take How-To: CUT RECESSED DOOR PULLS
note in detail a that the rear hole is
a.
larger to allow for better access to install 1 !/2"-rad.
cove bit
the table locking hardware later on.
!/2
ADD DOORS. The storage areas are enclosed K
with simple slab doors. The hinge side of
each door has a shallow rabbet to hold 3#/8
a continuous hinge. The box at right Mark ends
shows how to create low-profile pulls. of recess b. END
VIEW
Soften the outer edges using a roundover
K
(details d and e). The doors are held Risers
provide clearance
closed with magnetic catches. for bit bearing
!/2
That wraps up the work on the case.
Before moving on to the top, I painted the Stopped Cove Cuts. Layout lines on the door
case after sealing the edges of the MDF define the size of the pull recess. While it may be tempting to rout the profile in
and applying a coat of primer. You can a single pass, its best to work down to final depth in two passes.
find the color I used on page 12.

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 NOTE: All parts are #/4" Baltic birch plywood
NOTE: Tabletop
is glued
QUADRANT up from
M TABLETOP three layers
34
L of plywood
#/8"-16
T-nut
!/2"-rad.
On/off Router
switch 11#/4 insert
L
plate
L
8#/4

11!/4
24
9!/4

NOTE: Opening is
centered in tabletop.
a. !/2"-13 Turn to page 66 to see
insert knob step-by-step process

!/2" x 1!/4" Combination track

fender washer 3#/4
b. w/screws

1%/8
c. Plastic laminate
2!/2 is applied
SIDE with contact cement
SECTION
!/2"-13 x 3" VIEW
carriage bolt 2#/4 !/2"-13 d. FRONT
T-nut VIEW
!/2"-dia.
x 2!/2" (/16
steel TOP L %/8"-rad.
rod 14#/4
M SECTION !/4
VIEW (/16"-dia. L
3"-rad.
&/16"-dia. hole,
with 1"-dia. 3!/4 1%/8 !/4"-20
counterbore, threaded
#/4" deep !/4 insert
1#/4

L 3&/8 3
3 L
#/4" ply.
2!!/16
#8 x 1#/4" 1!/4"-dia. counterbore,
pocket screw FRONT VIEW
#/4" deep PLAN
VIEW

The flip-up TOP

A high-quality router table top should
have a smooth, hard-wearing surface
thats large and flat. And it never hurts
to include a miter track. The top shown in
the drawing above has all those features
checked off the list.
However, the dual-purpose nature of
this table requires a few other items. In the
horizontal routing setup, the top becomes
a vertical mounting surface for the router
and an auxiliary table. So it needs to stand
up to the changing loads. This top also
needs a secure connection to the tilting
mechanism for long-term reliability.
HEAVY-DUTY CONSTRUCTION. The starting
point for meeting all those requirements
is laminating the top from three layers of
Baltic birch plywood. To make the top,
I cut one piece of plywood to final size
and shape. Then, one at a time, I glued
on two slightly oversize pieces of ply-
wood and trimmed them with a hand-
held router and a flush-trim bit.
All it takes to make the top smooth and
durable is to add a piece of plastic lami-
nate. Its applied with contact cement and
trimmed like the plywood, as shown in
Figure 1 on the next page.
ALL IN THE DETAILS. With the top in hand, its
time to start adding details. The first is
drilling several sets of counterbored holes
from the bottom (back) face, as shown in
details b and c. The holes hold T-nuts
that are used to attach the router table
fence and the horizontal table.
I want to point out that there are two
different sizes of T-nuts used. So the
%/8"-wide
slot
9"-rad. 14
10%/8"-rad.
M
!%/16 3
1!/4
13%/8
holes and counterbores are different, as
well. Drill the counterbore for the T-nut
first using a Forstner bit. Then use the
center point to drill the through hole. Its
a good idea to have solid backing below
the table to prevent chipping the plastic
laminate as the drill bit exits the hole.
VERSATILE MITER TRACK. Next up on the list of
details is cutting a groove to hold a com-
mercial miter track. The one I selected is
a combination track that includes a miter

5 WoodsmithPlans.com WS22234 2015 Cruz Bay Publishing, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
 Rout clockwise around
inside of template

%/8"
straight

How-To: TABLETOP DETAILS

bit

track and a T-track. The thing to keep

in mind is that the track is wider than a
dado blade. So you need to make the cut 1 a. 2 a. SIDE
in multiple passes, as in Figure 2. VIEW
A LONG MORTISE. The top is connected to 1%/8
the table with a pair of curved plywood
L
quadrants. For a solid connection, the !/2" flush- L
(/16
quadrants fit into long mortises cut in trim bit
Round
the underside of the top. To determine over two
the location of the mortises, center the Rout
outside edges
#/4" dado
top on the case and mark the top where counterclockwise blade
around panel
it lines up with the pockets in the case.
Figure 3 shows a good method for Trim It Flush. Applying an oversize Cut a Track Groove. Fine-tune the
making the mortises. A straightedge piece of laminate is easier to line up. rip fence to cut a groove that forms
guides a hand-held plunge router. I Trim it flush with a router. a snug fit with the miter track.
used a plywood bit to ensure a good fit
between the plywood and the mortise. 3 Layout lines
define length a.
The mortise is 34" deep, so you need to of mortise
rout it in several shallow passes.
A ROUTER INSERT PLATE. Back on the top face #/4
SIDE #/4"
of the router table, you need to create an VIEW plywood
bit
opening for the router insert plate. This
L #/4"
is a little different than a typical open- 1#/4 ply.
ing. Since the table is designed to tilt
upright, the insert needs to be anchored Rout a Long Mortise. Clamp a long straightedge to the table so the router
to the top so it doesnt fall out. bit aligns with the layout marks. To prevent overtaxing the router and bit,
The insert plate I used has countersunk rout the mortise in several passes, moving from left to right along the guide.
holes in the corners. Machine screws and
threaded inserts lock the insert plate in 4 5 a. TOP VIEW
place, as shown in detail d on the previ-
1%/8
ous page. To create the opening, I used a 7
pair of templates (Figure 4). The full pro- 9%/16

cess is detailed in Shop Notes on page 11. 16

MAKING QUADRANTS. The work on the Rout clockwise around Trammel
tabletop is complete at this point. So you inside of template pivots on !/2"-dia.
dowel
can turn your attention to making the a.
quadrants. These have a curved edge
and a slot thats used to lock the tabletop SIDE
!/2"
%/8"
pattern
in either working position. One edge of VIEW bit straight
bit
the quadrant is glued into the mortise in
the underside of the tabletop. Two Templates. Turn to page 11 to Make a Trammel. The two pivot
Lay out the overall shape of the quad- see how templates guide a router to holes in the trammel are used to
rant on a square plywood blank. Be sure create a smooth, stepped opening. shape the quadrant and cut the slot.
to include the pivot hole, the curved slot,
and the ear along one edge, as in the 6 a. 7
plan view on the previous page. Glue and clamp
A jig saw makes quick work of cut- SIDE
quadrant into L
!/2" flush-
mortise, then drive
ting the quadrant to rough shape. Then VIEW pocket screws trim bit
I used a router with a simple hardboard !/8" roundover bit
trammel to clean up the edge, as shown
SIDE
in Figure 5. The trammel has a second VIEW
pivot hole thats used to rout the slot. Round 1%/8
After rounding over the outside edges over two
outside edges
(Figure 6), you can glue the quadrant in (/16
place. I used pocket screws to reinforce the Ease the Edge. A slight roundover Reinforcements. Pocket screws
joint, as in Figure 7. The tabletop is ready to softens the edges of the quadrant augment the glue joint where the
be installed on the case using the hardware and prevents splintering. quadrant connects to the tabletop.
shown in detail a on the previous page.

6 WoodsmithPlans.com WS22234 2015 Cruz Bay Publishing, Inc.#/4All Rights Reserved.

SIDE #/4"
VIEW plywood
 !/2"-13 x 3" studded knob
w/fender washer a. 11!/4 #/4

TABLE BACK END VIEW

N
NOTE: Table back is two 1!/2 5#/4 !/2"-13
layers of plywood, lift block T-nut !/4
is four layers of plywood 30 1!/2 (/16"-dia.
Drill O (/16"-dia. hole
re with N with 1!/4"-dia.
r bit #8 x 2" Fh
woodscrew 1#/4 counterbore,
FRONT VIEW !/4" deep on back face

b. 5!/2
6

O 3
6 P
O 3
BRACKET LIFT 6
BLOCK 2!/4
1"-rad. NOTE: All parts are
#/4" Baltic birch plywood 4!/2"-dia. hand
wheel with SIDE VIEW
!/2"-dia. hole

Adjustable horizontal TABLE

2!/2

c. !/2"-13 !/2"-13 x 7"

Completing the case and tabletop gives
you a fairly standard router table. To take
advantage of the flip-up top, there needs
to be some kind of support for the work-
piece. Thats where youll be focusing
your attention next.
The horizontal table consists of two
primary assemblies: a fixed back and
an adjustable table. The back is used to
mount the table to the vertical tabletop
in one of two positions. This is done with
the T-nuts that were installed earlier. A
hand wheel lets you fine-tune the height
of the table in relation to the router bit.
A SOLID BACK. The table back is made up
of two layers of plywood. I softened
the corners with a radius. Cut a pair
of dadoes in the face to hold the hand
T-nut threaded rod
wheel assembly, as shown in Figure 1
below. The dadoes are sized to match O O
P
the thickness of the Baltic birch ply-
wood used throughout this part of the #/4
project. The back has two sets of holes #8 x 2" Fh FRONT
drilled in it, as shown in detail a. One woodscrew VIEW
N
is used with studded knobs to lock into
the tabletop. The other set incorporates
T-nuts, as you can see in the upper right
drawing. These secure the table height
once you have it dialed in.
HAND WHEEL ASSEMBLY. Attached to the detail provides greater access to operate
table back is the hand wheel assembly. the hand wheel. The brackets are glued
This includes two brackets and a lift into the dadoes in the table back and
block. The brackets are cut from square flush with the top edge. Screws driven
blanks that have the lower corners bev- in from behind further strengthen the
eled, as shown in detail b. Besides joint (main drawing above).
lightening the look of the brackets, this Sandwiched between the brackets is the
lift block (detail c). Its glued up from

How-To: DADOES & COUNTERBORED HOLES four layers of plywood. Size the block so
that its a snug fit between the brackets.
At the drill press, drill a counterbore
1 2
SECOND: for a T-nut and then the through hole to
a. !/4 END VIEW Drill
through accommodate the threaded rod for the
#/4 hole FIRST: Drill
counterbore with
hand wheel. This is shown in detail c. I
N
Forstner bit drove long screws through the brackets
and into the block for a solid connection.
a. The hand wheel is attached to a length
O
FRONT of threaded rod using a set screw. Thread
VIEW
the rod into the T-nut in the lift block.
Size dado
blade to match
!/4 (/16"-dia. bit ADJUSTABLE TABLE
plywood
The second part of the horizontal table
A Pair of Dadoes. The dadoes are More T-Nuts. Drill the counterbore is the adjustable portion, as shown on
centered on the overall length of the so that the head of the T-nut is just the next page. Here you have a double
table back. The rip fence acts as a stop. slightly below the surface. thickness table and two sets of braces
with plates that join the table to the

7 WoodsmithPlans.com WS22234 2015 Cruz Bay Publishing, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
 a. #8 x 1!/2" Fh
FRONT VIEW
woodscrew Combination track
w/screws
S
NOTE: Apply
plastic laminate
1!/2 after gluing
table sections
together
R 1&/8 30
Q 1" x 3"
mending plate

%/8 S

b. TABLE
!/4 S
R NOTE: All parts are Hand wheel screw
#/4" Baltic birch plywood bears against mending plate 12
on underside of table
Q !/4 PLATE
TOP !/2"-13 x 3" R
VIEW studded knob
(cut down to 2!/8") !/2"-rad.
7!/2
w/fender washer
R
6!/2
BRACE
c. Center mending
Q Q
plate over hand
3!/2 wheel screw Q

S Q 6

SIDE
SECTION Q
VIEW

d. FIRST: TOP
back assembly. The construction is Drill out corners %/8 VIEW
straightforward, but theres a definite 2
SECOND: Cut sides
order to the process to get the best results. at the table saw S 3!/2 1%/8
#8 x 1!/2" Fh
woodscrew
MAKE THE BRACE & PLATE. I began by making THIRD: Cut
the two brace and plate sub-assemblies. end of notch !/4"-rad. S
at the band saw
The braces are similar to the brackets 1 (/16
you just made (main drawing and detail
Q
e). The difference is a tongue and dado to form a tongue that fits into the dadoes
joint that runs along the back edge, as in the braces. The other detail that you
illustrated in the drawing below. Locate need to add is a centered slot, as shown SIDE VIEW
R N
the dado so that the back face of the in detail a. This accepts a studded knob
mating plate is flush with the end of the and washer. The knob threads into the
brace, as you can see in detail b above. T-nut in the table back.
e. 2!/2
Cut a rabbet along each side of the plate NOW THE TABLE. A common theme with
this project is creating strength by dou-

How-To: DADO bling up the thickness of critical compo-

nents. And the top of the horizontal table
is no exception. But I did things a little
1 differently here. The table is screwed to
the braces, but I didnt want the screws
Q to show through the top face.
To do this, I cut the lower layer of the
table to final size and shape, including
the router bit notch, as shown in detail
a. #/4" ply.
Back edge !/4 d. Attach this layer to the braces with
of brace END screws, as shown in the details a and e.
runs along VIEW
!/4
rip fence You know the routine by now: Once
the first layer is in place, the second
layer can go on. Like before, start with a
Tongue & Dado Joint. The first slightly oversized piece. Cut a notch for
step is cutting the dado. Then size the bit and use that to align the second
the mating tongue for a snug fit. layer over the first while you glue the
upper layer of plywood in place.
Trim the second layer of plywood
flush, then add the plastic laminate just
as you did on the tabletop. (Youll have to
remove the table from the tabletop to trim
the edges flush.) Be sure to trim around
the inside of the router bit notch, as well.
Complete the work on the top of the
horizontal table by taking a trip over to the
table saw. Here, you cut a groove to accept
the same combination track thats installed
in the main tabletop. You can find the loca-
tion for the groove in detail e.
Theres one final bit of hardware to add
to the table before reattaching it to the
router table. And thats to attach a mend-
ing plate to the bottom face. This serves
as the bearing surface for the hand wheel
screw (main drawing and detail c).

8 WoodsmithPlans.com WS22234 2015 Cruz Bay Publishing, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
 Toggle clamp
a. !/4"-20
insert w/screws b.
knob %/16"-18 x 1!/2" 1!/4"-dia.
1!/2 !/4"-20 x studded knob V 1!/4"-
1!/2"hex w/washer rad.
#/4 X head 1%/8
bolt 4&/8 1!!/16 W
SIDE
SECTION CLAMP PLATE 2&/8
VIEW W 3
6
U
11&/8" miter 20 11&/8
bar w/screws T

SIDE VIEW
JIG BASE 7%/16
T 12
!/2"-rad. FRONT
5 V c. V SECTION
1!/2 VIEW
#/8 W

20" mini U
T-track !/2"-rad.
w/screws U T
STOP JIG TOP
BLOCK #8 x 1!/2" Fh #/4
X woodscrew
20
NOTE: All parts are
#/4" Baltic birch plywood d. #/4 BOTTOM
!/8"-rad. 10 VIEW
V
5#/8
HANDLE 3#/4 #/8-dia. hole w/&/8"
%/16"-18 counterbore,
t-nuts 2!/8 !/16" deep
1
U
3!/2
Pilot hole for
4 #8 woodscrew

A versatile MORTISING JIG 1!/4

Routing mortises is an ideal operation
for a horizontal router. In this configu-
ration, you have much better visibility
of the bit. What you need, though, is a
way to secure and guide the workpiece
while making the cut. The solution is the
jig shown here.
The workpiece is clamped to the jig
with stout toggle clamps. Runners in
the base and top of the jig constrain
the motion in and out and side to side.
Stops installed in the table help make it
easy to rout consistent mortises. And two
large handles give you better control and
keep your hands well clear of the bit.
THE BASE FIRST. The base is a piece of ply-
wood. On the bottom face, a length of
mini T-track serves as a runner, as shown
in detail b. Whats important here is that
it gets installed parallel to the edge of
the base. This is what guides the jig side to
side down the length of a mortise.
On the top face of the base are a pair
of runners that I cut from a commercial
miter bar, as you can see in detail c.
These mate with dadoes cut in the bot-
tom face of the mortising jig top. The bars
control the in and out motion of the jig
when cutting a mortise to its final depth.
ADD THE TOP. In addition to the dadoes I

How-To: SHAPE A HAND HOLD just mentioned, the jig top has four sets
of T-nuts installed in the bottom face.
The T-nuts are anchor points for the tog-
1!/4"-dia.
gle clamp assembly.
Forstner bit In detail b, you can see the dimensions
for the handles that are screwed to the jig
Drill top. You create the hand holds by drilling
press
fence out the ends with a Forstner bit (box at
Cut on
waste left). After cutting away most of the waste
Backer
side of the with a jig saw, smooth and straighten the
layout line
prevents edges with files and a little hand sanding.
tearout
The toggle clamps are fixed to an
adjustable plate. Depending on the size of
your workpiece, you can locate the plate
Drill out the Ends. Use a Forstner bit Rough out the Waste. A couple of in one of four locations on the top using
in the drill press to create a smooth quick jig saw cuts remove most of studded knobs and washers (detail c).
radius at each end of the hand hold. the waste between the holes. The last thing to do is make a pair of
square stop blocks. These lock into the

9 WoodsmithPlans.com WS22234 2015 Cruz Bay Publishing, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
 !/4"-rad. NOTE: All parts are a. Z
1#/4
made from #/4"-thick hardwood
6
30 FENCE FACE Y
Z
AA BACK VIEW
!/2

30" mini T-track

w/screws 1
AA
FENCE SUPPORT 3!/2
b.
FENCE BASE 1
Y
AA
1 #8 x 1!/2" Fh
woodscrew SIDE
!/4"-rad.
30 1 SECTION
AA VIEW 2#/4
3!/4
c. 1!/2
2#/4 1
Z
#/8"-16 x 3"
!/2 studded knob 5!/2 Y
AA w/washer
#/4

SIDE
#/8 VIEW
SIMPLE CONSTRUCTION. The drawing above
Z
reveals that a good router table fence can
Y
be simply built. This one is an L-shaped
assembly consisting of a base and face
beefed up with some supports.
T-track in the horizontal table with hex The base is a length of hardwood with
bolts, washers, and knobs, as shown in a centered notch to allow a router bit to
detail a on the previous page. be recessed inside. Near each end of the
base is a short slot thats used to adjust
ROUTER TABLE FENCE the position of the fence in use. The fence
The focus so far has been on making the is attached to the table with washers and
horizontal routing configuration. But in studded knobs that thread into the T-nuts
order to use the standard setup, youll along the back of the tabletop, as shown
need a solid, sturdy fence. in details a and c.
The hardwood face has a groove
cut in it to accept T-track. The final
parts to make are the supports, as in
detail b. Once theyre cut to shape,
the fence can be assembled with glue
and screws. The key is keeping the
fence face square to the base as the
parts come together.
That wraps up the project, and the
router table is ready for use. Be sure to
locate the router table in a prominent
place in your workshop. With all the
practical features it has, its bound to
see a lot of use for years to come.

Materials & Supplies

A Case Sides (2) 3 MDF - 15 x 33
4 V Handles (2) 3 ply. - 47 x 6
4 8 (2) 48" Mini Tracks
B Case Top/Bottom (2) 34 MDF - 15 x 31 W Clamp Plate (1) 3 ply. - 5 x 12
4 (2) 38"-16 x 3" Studded Knobs
C Case Shelf (1) 3 MDF - 141 x 31
4 2 X Stop Blocks (2) 3 1 1
4 ply. - 1 2 x 1 2 (2) 38" x 1" Fender Washers
D Case Back (1) 3 MDF - 191 x 31
4 4 Y Fence Base (1) 3 1
4 x 5 2 - 30 (36) #8 x 112" Fh Woodscrews
E Pedestal (1) 112 MDF - 22 x 33 Z Fence Face (1) 3 1
4 x 3 2 - 30 (1) 1" x 3" Mending Plate
F Outer Dividers (2) 34 MDF - 13 x 1412 AA Fence Supports (2) 3 x 23 - 23
4 4 4 (2) #6 x 12" Fh Woodscrews
G Inner Dividers (2) 3 MDF - 13 x 15
4 (4) Magnetic Catches (4) 12"-13 x 3" Studded Knobs #/8"-16 x 3"
!/2 studded knob
H Small Shelves (2) 3 4 MDF - 614 x 1412 (2) 2"-13 x 3" Carriage Bolts
1 (1) 12" x 412" Hand Wheel w/washer
AA
I Upper Backs (2) 3 MDF - 8 x 123
4 4 (2) 112" x 36" Continuous Hinges (2) 12"-13 x 7"#/4Threaded Rod
J Lower Doors (2) 4 MDF - 151516 x 1934
3 (6) 12" x 114" Fender Washers (2) Toggle Clamps
SIDE
K Upper Doors (2) 3 MDF - 9 x 91
4 8 (14) #8 x 2" Fh Woodscrews (2) 516"-18 x 112#/8
" Studded VIEW
Knobs
L Tabletop (1) 214 ply. - 24 x 34 (2) 2"x 2 2" Steel Rods
1 1 (2) 16" Washers Z
5

M Quadrants (2) 3 ply. - 14 x 135

4 8 (2) 12"-13 Insert Knobs (1) 38" x 34" - 30" Miter Bar
Y
N Table Back (1) 112 ply. - 6 x 30 (1) Power Tool Switch (8) 516"-18 T-Nuts
O Brackets (2) 3 ply. - 6 x 51
4 2 (6) 12"-13 T-Nuts (2) 14"-20 x 134" Hex Bolts
P Lift Block (1) 3 ply. - 214 x 6 (6) 8"-16 T-Nuts
3 (2) 14"-20 Insert Knobs
Q Braces (4) 3 ply. - 6 x 71
4 2 (2) 36" Combination Tracks
R Plates (1) 3 ply. - 6 x 61 (1) Router Insert Plate ALSO NEEDED:
4 2
Two 49" x 97" sheets of 34" MDF
S Horizontal Tables (2) 3 ply. - 12 x 30
4 (4) 4"-20 Fh Machine Screws Two 60" x 60" sheets of 34" Baltic birch plywood
1

T Mortise Jig Base (1) 34 ply. - 1178 x 20 (4) 14"-20 Threaded Inserts 2.5 bd. ft. of 34"-thick hard maple (Parts Y, Z, and AA)
U Mortise Jig Top (1) 3 ply. - 10 x 20
4 (8) #8 x 1 4" Pocket Screws
3

10 WoodsmithPlans.com WS22234 2015 Cruz Bay Publishing, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Shop Notes
Insert Plate Opening
Creating an opening for a router insert
plate is usually a pretty straightforward
task. However, the opening for this
insert plate requires threaded inserts to
secure the insert while the table is flipped
upright for horizontal routing. The solu-
tion for making it comes in the form of
using two templates and three router bits.
The opening in one of the templates is
sized to match the insert plate. The other
template is sized for the smaller open-
ing. The dimensions for the openings are
found on page 5. I used the template with
1 2
Through-
hole template
Move the router
clockwise around
the template
a.
!/2"
SIDE pattern
VIEW
bit
11 WoodsmithPlans.com WS22234 2015 Cruz Bay Publishing, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
the smaller through opening to trace the
opening on the tabletop and cut out most
of the waste with a jig saw.
SMALL OPENING. Turning the rough cutout
into a smooth, even opening starts with
using a pattern bit to trim the edge of the
opening flush with the template (Fig. 1).
My pattern bit wasnt long enough to
trim all three layers of the tabletop. To com-
plete the job, I flipped the tabletop upside-
down and used a flush-trim bit. The bear-
ing on this bit follows along the smooth
edge that was just created, as in Figure 2.
SECOND: Set bearing of
bit to run on previously
trimmed edge
Waste
FIRST: Flip
tabletop
upside down
a.
!/2" flush-
trim bit
INSERT PLATE OPENING. Now youre ready to
make the larger recess to house the insert
plate. Remove the first template and
install the second template centered over
the opening. Since this recess is shallow,
you need to use a dado cleaout bit, which
has a short cutting length so the bearing
can follow the template.
The router bit depth should match
the thickness of the router insert plate,
as shown in Figure 3. In the corners,
you need to make a few back-and-forth
passes to clear out the remaining waste.
3
Insert plate
template
Use freehand passes
to clear away
waste in corners
a.
#/8
!/2" dado !/4
cleanout
bit
 MAIL Project Sources
ORDER McMaster-Carr
SOURCES 1 "-13 Insert Knob. . . . . 6042K81
2
1 "-13 T-Nuts. . . . . . . 90975A033
Woodsmith Store 2
800-444-7527 3 "-16 Studded Knob. . 62215K56
8
Mending Plate . . . . . . . . . 1030A4
Benjamin Moore 1 "-13 Studded Knob. . 62215K58
2
855-724-6802
benjaminmoore.com 412" Hand Wheel. . . . . . 6033K71
5 "-18 Studded Knob. 62215K53
16
Kreg 1 "-20 Insert Knob. . . . . 6042K77
4
800-447-8638
kregtool.com Rockler
Magnetic Catch . . . . . . . . 1009262
Lee Valley Power Tool Switch . . . . . . . . 20915
800-871-8158
Dust Collection Port . . . . . . 21528
leevalley.com
Kreg Tool
McMaster-Carr Combo Trak. . . . . . . . . . . KMS7448
630-833-0300 Router Plate. . . . . . . . . . . . . PRS3038
mcmaster.com
Mini T-Track. . . . . . . . . . . . KMS7509
Nevamar Jig & Fixture Bar. . . . . . . . KMS7303
877-726-6526 Lee Valley
nevamar.com Toggle Clamp . . . . . . . . . 17F72.02
Nevamar
Rockler
800-279-4441 Lam. (Maritime Gray). . . . . S6027
rockler.com
The case of the router table was
painted with Benjamin Moores
Calm Cream (Eggshell Finish).
Manufacturers and retailers
will periodically redesign or dis-
continue some of their items.
So youll want to gather all the
hardware, supplies, and tools
you need before you get started.
Its easy to adjust dimensions or
drill different-sized holes to suit
your hardware.

12 WoodsmithPlans.com WS22234 2015 Cruz Bay Publishing, Inc. All Rights Reserved.