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FABRIC SCIENCE
SWATCH KIT Tenth Edition
allen c. cohen
ingrid johnson
FABRIC SCIENCE
Swatch Kit
J. J. P i z z u t os
FABRIC SCIENCE
tenth edition
Swatch Kit
Allen C. Cohen
Fashion Institute of Technology, New York
Ingrid Johnson
Fashion Institute of Technology, New York
FA I R C H I L D B O O K S
New York
Executive Editor: Olga T. Kontzias
Assistant Acquisitions Editor: Amanda Breccia
Assistant Art Director: Sarah Silberg
Production Director: Ginger Hillman
Senior Production Editor: Elizabeth Marotta
Copyeditor: Jeff Klingman
Ancillaries Editor: Noah Schwartzberg
Executive Director & General Manager: Michael Schluter
Associate Director of Sales: Melanie Sankel
Cover Design: Carolyn Eckert
Text Design and Page Layout: Tronvig Group
A v F
Assignment 16 / Dyed Fabrics: Assignment 25 / Analysis of Fabrics:
To Determine the Degree of Dye Penetration To Compare Covering Power
C O N T E N T S
A vi F
HOW TO USE THE FABRIC SCIENCE SWATCH KIT
A vii F
Mounting the Swatches on Fabric 5. Press the swatch with the tape in place on
the Fabric Sample Sheet. Cut and remove any
Sample Sheets loose yarns extending beyond the edges of the
swatches.
Materials: Set of swatches; Fabric Sample Sheets; dou-
ble-stick tape or masking tape (3/4-inch wide); scissors 6. Write the fabric name, number, and fiber content
The Fabric Science swatches have been placed in on the Fabric Sample Sheet.
numerical order in the proper positions for mounting.
Mount them on the Fabric Sample Sheets. As a helpful example of how the mounting boards
The fabric number, name, and color listed in the are used, see Swatch #1 Denim below.
Key are in the same sequence as the swatches in the
packets. To make mounting your swatches simple and Swatch Number: 1
foolproof, follow these instructions: Fabric Name: Denim
Fiber Content: Cotton
1. Do not remove the rubberbands from the packets Yarn Type: Spun
until you actually begin mounting the swatches. Weave/Knit Type: 2/1 45 Twill Weave
Yarns/Stitches per Inch: 61 x 48
2. The swatches are packaged in two separate pack- Method of Coloration: Yarn dyed
ets. One packet labeled A contains swatches Filling: Not dyed
163; the second packet, labeled B, 64114; Finish: Calendered
and every 10 swatches are separated with tissue. End Use: Jeans
Packet One A: Notes: Not suitable for skinny jeans
Fibers (115)
Yarns (1627)
Woven Fabrics (2848)
Knitted Fabrics (4963)
Using the Pick Glass
The pick glass has become universal in its applications
Packet Two B: in the field of textiles and clothing. Designers,
Knitted Fabrics (6469) technicians, students, and teachers have found it to be
Other Types of Fabrics (7075) an important tool for a better and clearer examination
Dyed Fabrics (7680) of fabrics. Yarn types, fabric weaves, knit stitches, and
Printed Fabrics (8188) cloth defects can be more easily identified through its
Textile Finishes (8998) proper use. The pick glass (enclosed in this Swatch
Special Fabrics (99114) Kit) is particularly useful to determine the yarns per
inch in woven fabrics or the stitches per inch in knit
3. Carefully remove the rubberbands from the pack- fabrics. (Fabric construction is a measure of fabric
et labeled A. Keep the packet upright. Mount quality.) The pick glass (examining glass), or linen
each swatch as you see itface up and longer tester, is composed of a frame, magnifying lenses,
sides vertical. (Do not turn the swatch over; and a measured opening in the base opposite the
some fabrics have a face and back.) lenses. When the pick glass is opened properly, the
4. Cut a two-inch piece of tape. When using mask- measuring lines on the base are visible when looking
ing tape, fold the piece in half with the sticky side through the lenses.
out. Apply the tape to the back of the swatch, Fabrics to be examined should be placed on
with the two ends of the tape pointing downward, a flat, smooth surface. The surface must be well-
about 1/2 inch from the top of the sample. The lighted. The open pick glass is placed on top of the
tape will make it easier to remove swatches for cloth and viewed through the lens section. The
assignments and experiments, and to return them users head and not the pick glass should be raised or
to the Fabric Sample Sheets. lowered for better focus.
H O W T O U S E T H E F A B R I C S C I E N C E S W A T C H K I T
A viii F
WHATS IN A FABRIC NAME?
A ix F
J. J. P i z z u t os
FABRIC SCIENCE
tenth edition
Ingrid Johnson
Fashion Institute of Technology, New York
Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
1 Denim (blue) Cotton Cotton
2 Broken twill (black & grey) Wool (woolen) Wool
3 Tropical worsted (glen plaid) Wool (worsted) Wool
4 Sueded twill (black) Cashmere Cashmere/polyester (blend)
5 3D-design Mohair Mohair/wool (blend)
6 Heather effect (purple) Reprocessed wool Wool and other fibers
7 Taffeta (plaid) Cultivated silk Silk
8 Pongee (ivory) Duoppioni silk Silk
9 Pin check Tussah silk Silk
10 Linen (off-white) Flax Flax
11 Microfiber fabric (army green) Polyester (microfilament) Polyester
12 Hampton twill (black) Lyocell Lyocell
13 Nainsook (aqua) Ramie Ramie
14 Lining (drab olive) Rayon Bemberg rayon
15 Bridal satin (bright blue) Acetate Acetate
Also see:
__
25 Lam Metallic
__
26 Tissue taffeta Nylon
__
34 Pointed twill Spandex
__
49 Jersey knit Acrylic
__
50 Baby jersey Organic cotton
__
64 High pile knit Modacrylic
YARNS
Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
16 Chambray (dk. blue) Carded yarn Cotton
17 Broadcloth (taupe grey) Combed yarn Cotton
18 Linen look (boulder grey) Novelty yarn (thick and thin) Polyester/rayon (blend)
19 Spider knit (white) Textured filament Polyester
20 Novelty suiting Novelty yarns (boucl, tufts, __
plied)
21 Bathing suit fabric (hot pink) 4 way stretch Nylon and spandex
22 Chiffon (pale pink) High twist filament yarn Polyester
23 Georgette (salmon) Crepe twist yarn Polyester
24 Crystal organza (white) Monofilament yarn Nylon
25 Lam (gold) Metallic yarn Metallic and nylon (mixture)
26 Tissue taffeta (pale eggplant) Filament yarn Nylon
27 Shaggy knit (ice blue) Textured yarn and eyelash yarn Polyester and nylon
Also see:
__
31 Faille Fabric mixture
__
35 Sateen Corespun
__
65 Tricot jersey 15d.
__
66 Tricot jersey 40d.
__
78 Lightweight poplin Blended yarn
__
111 Luggage fabric High denier yarn
__
113 Buckram Filling: monofilament
WOVEN FABRICS
Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
28 Gauze (greige) Yarn distortion Cotton
29 Lawn (white) Plain weave (fine) Cotton
30 Batiste (print) Plain weave (printed) Cotton
31 Faille (ice green) Plain weave (ribbed) Warp: acetate
Filling: cotton
32 Cord (mineral green) Cord effect Cotton
33 Chino (beige) Twill weave Warp: cotton
Filling: cotton and spandex
(corespun)
34 Pointed twill (orange crush) Broken twill weave Warp: cotton
Filling: cotton and spandex
(corespun)
35 Sateen (pebble) Satin weave Warp: cotton
Filling: cotton and spandex
(corespun)
36 Antique satin (dusty green) Satin weave (novelty yarn) Warp: acetate
Filling: rayon
37 Striped lining Multiple effect Acetate
38 Piqu (apple green) Piqu weave Cotton
39 Terrycloth (beige) Warp pile weave (uncut) Cotton
40 Corduroy (navy) Filling pile weave (cut) Cotton
41 Velveteen (lagoon) Filling pile weave (cut) Cotton
42 Velvet (patterned) Warp pile weave (cut) Rayon
43 Upholstery velvet (brown) Warp pile weave (cut) Back: cotton
Pile: wool/rayon (blend)
44 Sculpted upholstery velvet Warp pile weave (cut) __
(camel)
45 Evening wear dobby (black) Dobby weave Acetate
46 Tie fabric Dobby weave (long floats) Polyester
47 Natt damask (white) Jacquard weave Cotton
48 Upholstery brocade (sage) Jacquard weave Warp: polyester
Filling: cotton/rayon (blend)
Also see:
__
5 3D-design Long floats
__
9 Pin check Basket weave
__
110 Designer jacquard Jacquard
KNITTED FABRICS
Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
49 Jersey knit (black) Jersey (coarse) Acrylic
50 Baby jersey (greige) Jersey (fine) Cotton (organic, combed
yarns)
51 Rib knit (steel grey) Rib knit (1x1) Cotton
52 Rib knit (black) Rib knit (2x2) Cotton and cotton and span-
dex (corespun)
53 Interlock knit (striped) Ribbed Cotton and polyester (mixture)
54 Interlock knit (cobalt) Interlock Polyester
55 French terry (blue) Lay in yarn Ground: cotton
Lay in: polyester/cotton (blend)
56 Knit window pane check Knit jacquard Acrylic
57 Slinky (maroon) Supple drape Acetate, nylon, and spandex
58 Knit terry (orange) Loop-knit (uncut) Pile: cotton
Ground: cotton and polyester
59 Knit velour (baby blue) Loop-knit (cut) Pile: cotton
Ground: cotton and polyester
60 Argyle Argyle pattern White: cotton
Blue: polyester
61 Thermal knit type (white) Patterning with tuck stitches Polyester and cotton (mixture)
62 Puckered jersey (celery) Crinkle effect Polyester/spandex (corespun)
__
63 Fancy jersey Lay in yarns for surface effect
64 High pile knit (fake fur) High pile knit Modacrylic
65 Tricot jersey (white) Tricot (15d.) Nylon
66 Tricot jersey (black) Tricot (40d.) Nylon
67 Satin tricot (metallic print) Satin tricot Polyester
68 Sports jersey (silver) Tricot mesh Nylon
69 Tulle (red) Raschel (sheer) Nylon
Also see:
__
74 Raschel lace Raschel lace
__
84 Ponte di roma Interlock
__
95 Pann velour Crushed, flattened surface
__
107 Matelass knit Quilted effect
OTHER TYPES OF TEXTILES
Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
70 Interfacing Web nonwoven Polyester and rayon
71 Fusible nonwoven interfacing Fusible web nonwoven Polyester and rayon (polyester
dots)
72 Felt (navy) Felt Wool and polyester
73 Eyelet fabric (white) Embroidered fabric Polyester/cotton (blend)
74 Raschel lace (purple) Raschel lace Nylon
75 Quilted material Quilted material Shell: acetate
Filler: polyester
Scrim: polyester
DYED FABRICS
Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
76 Greige goods Greige goods Cotton
77 Iridescent (magenta) Piece dyed (cross) Blue: nylon
Pink: polyester
78 Lightweight poplin (peacock) Piece dyed (union) Polyester/cotton (blend)
79 Madras (plaid) Yarn dyed Cotton
80 Gingham (black and white) Yarn dyed Polyester/cotton (blend)
Also see:
__
13 Nainsook Piece dyed
__
112 Market umbrella fabric Solution dyed
PRINTED FABRICS
Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
81 Printed check (black and Printed woven design Polyester/cotton (blend)
white)
82 Flannelette (print) Printed(napped finish) Cotton
83 Calico Blotch print Polyester/cotton (blend)
84 Ponte di roma (yellow) Overprint (pigment) Polyester
85 French piqu (stripe) Heat transfer print Polyester
86 ITY (blue print) ITY fabric Polyester and spandex
(corespun)
87 Burn-out batiste Burn-out design (sheer effect) Cotton with polyester core
(white)
88 Burn-out velvet (black) Burn-out design (pile effect) Rayon and polyester (mixture)
Also see:
__
99 Liquid lam Allover metallic effect
TEXTILE FINISHES
Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
89 Staybright fabric* (orange) Bleach resistant color Cotton/polyester (blend)
90 Drill (olive) Suede finish Cotton
91 Brushed knit (lemon) Brushed (napped) finish Polyester
92 Paper taffeta (classic blue) Water repellent finish Nylon
93 Chintz (pink) Glazed calender finish Cotton
94 Moir taffeta (black) Moir finish Acetate
95 Pann Velour (silver grey) Crushed (flattened) surface Polyester and spandex
(corespun)
96 Stretch pliss (blue and white) Pucker effect Warp: cotton
Filling: cotton and spandex
(corespun)
97 Seersucker (multicolor) Seersucker Cotton
98 Accordion pleat Pleating Polyester
Also see:
17 Broadcloth Mercerized and compressive __
shrinkage finish
__
31 Faille Moir finish
__
76 Greige goods Greige goods
__
79 Madras Fabric not mercerized
__
105 Yoryu Heat set crinkle effect
__
113 Buckram Stiffening finish
*Courtesy of WestPoint Home
SPECIAL FABRICS
Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
99 Liquid lam Allover metallic effect Polyester
100 Coated fabric (brown) Down proof Nylon
101 Allover flock (blue grey) Flocking Flock: nylon
Back: polyester/cotton (blend)
102 Moleskin (dusty pink) Lightly sueded finish Warp: polyester
Filling: polyester and spandex
(corespun)
103 Poplinette (grey gull) Supplex nylon Supplex nylon
104 Rip stop fabric (silver sage) Rip stop Nylon
105 Yoryu (coral) Crinkle effect Polyester
106 Fortuny satin (antique white) Fortuny effect Rayon
107 Matelass knit (brown) Quilted effect Polyester
108 Polar fleece type (navy)
Double brushed fabric Polyester
109 Vinyl rainwear (black) Waterproof vinyl coating Face: vinyl
Back: polyester
110 Designer jacquard Accessory fabric Face: nylon and rayon
(mixture)
Back: vinyl
111 Luggage fabric High denier yarn Nylon
112 Market umbrella fabric** Sunbrella acrylic Acrylic
113 Buckram Stiffening finish Warp: cotton
Filling: polyester monofilament
114 Placemat material Plastic coated Nylon
**Courtesy of Glen Raven
FABRIC SCIENCE SWATCH KIT / Fabric Sample Sheet