Gardening For The Homebrewer Grow and Process Plants For Making Beer Wine Gruit Cider Perry and More PDF

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First published in 2015 by Voyageur Press, ISBN: 978-0-7603-4563-4
an imprint of Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc.,
Digital edition: 978-1-62788-649-9
400 First Avenue North, Suite 400, Minneapolis, MN
55401 USA Softcover edition: 978-0-76034-563-4
2015 Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Text 2015 Wendy Tweten, Debbie Teashon
Tweten, Wendy, author.
All rights reserved. With the exception of quoting Gardening for the homebrewer : plants for making
brief passages for the purposes of review, no part of beer, wine, gruit, cider, perry, and more / by
this publication may be reproduced without prior Wendy Tweten and Debbie Teashon.
written permission from the Publisher. pages cm
Includes index.
ISBN 978-0-7603-4563-4 (sc)
The information in this book is true and complete
1. Food crops. 2. Plants, Edible. 3. Plants, Useful.
to the best of our knowledge. All recommendations
4. Beer. 5. Wine and wine making. I.Teashon,
are made without any guarantee on the part of the
Debbie, author. II. Title. III. Title: Plants for mak-
author or Publisher, who also disclaims any liability
ing beer, wine, gruit, cider, perry, and more.
incurred in connection with the use of this data or
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GARDENING
HOMEBREWER
GROW AND PROCESS PLANTS FOR MAKING BEER, WINE, GRUIT, CIDER, PERRY, AND MORE
WENDY TWETEN AND DEBBIE TEASHON

brewer (Forga 39) Job:06-61246 Title:MBI - Gardening for the Homebrewer
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Contents
Introduction 7
CHAPTER 1 Before You Begin 9

Tools, Materials, and More
Picking Your Plants 9
Soil 14
Tools and Equipment 18
Planting 20
Seeding 22
Bounty with Beauty 25
CHAPTER 2 The Big Beer Ingredients 31

Growing Hops, Malt, and Other Grains
Hops 32
Barley (and Other Grains) 46
Malting 53
Wheat 56
CHAPTER 3 Other Beer Ingredients 61

Brewing Herbs and Fermentables
Getting Into Gruit 61
The Cucurbits 78
A Few Final Ideas 86
CHAPTER 4 All Sorts of Wines 97

Growing Grapes and Other Fruits
Winemaking Basics 98
Grapes 104
Fruit Wines 113


CHAPTER 5 Cider 137
The Lowdown on Apples and
Other Cider-Friendly Fruits
Cidermaking Basics 139
Cider Apples 144
Planting Your Cider Orchard 150
Cider Beyond Apples 155
The Perfect Cider Garden 155
CHAPTER 6 A Little Bit of Perry 165

A Chapter for Pears
Getting to Know Perry 165
Perry Pears 170
Growing Pears 171
CHAPTER 7 Liqueurs and Infused Spirits 177

From Garden to Glass
Historical Liqueur 177
Bringing Liqueur to Life 179
Which Liqueur Should You Use? 180
On to the Herbs 181
Acknowledgments 202
Photo Credits 203
Works Cited 204
About the Authors 208

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Introduction
For those of you who werent there, TV ads fermenting, sanitize everything to avoid
of the 1960s were heavy on cartoon char- brew-ruining contamination, and, in gar-
acters pitching breakfast cereals, tank- dening, site plants correctly and dont let
solid cars caressed by girls with pageboy them dry out before theyre established. If
hairdos, and beer with heads of foam that you can remember these guidelines, every
exploded out of the glass and flowed down step is a new adventure!
the sides like golden volcanoes. Brewing and gardening are good com-
Decades later, there are still similar panions. After all, both are natural forces
commercials. However, many of us have set into motion, then guided by the human
come to understand that beer, wine, cider, hand. In the garden, fruit ferments nat-
and liqueurs are more than a buzz: Theyre urally. Since fermentation relies on the
art and science rolled into intriguing and garden, why not take control of the flavors
nuanced libations. Just as with fine food, that go into your brews by growing them
those that enjoy a craft beer or well-made at home? Well-crafted adult beverages have
wine know that the ingredients make a dif- depth and refinement. One of the most
ference. So it makes sense that if you brew important elementsfreshnessis as
your own, at some point you may wonder: elusive as it is esteemed. Elusive, that is,
Can I also grow my own? unless youre harvesting your ingredients
The good news in a nutshell is a from your own backyard.
resounding yes! Beginners as well as We hope this book will plant a seed. A
experts can be proud of their forays into brewers garden can be so much more than
gardening just as they were in their early a production plot. With a little forethought,
days of brewing. In other words, even a it can be a source of relaxation and pride.
first effort is likely to produce an ample When the weather is fine, its an outdoor
harvest, just as your first few batches pro- room. When the year turns cold, your gar-
vided a satisfying beverage. Of course, you den becomes ever-changing art outside
can also end up with dead plants or a drain the windows of your warm house. As two
pour, but only if youre careless! hobbies grow into one, your efforts in the
Therein lies the beauty of either hobby; garden and with the fermenter will become
these are pursuits of personal enrich- second nature. May you gain coordination
ment that have only a few simple rules for as your confidence grows, while losing
success. Heres the secret of each: When none of your enthusiasm!
INTRODUCTION | 7

CHAPTER 1
Before You Begin

Tools, Materials, and More

R
emember playing outside when you were a kid? Climbing trees? Building
forts? Turning over rocks to see what crept beneath? It was fun, wasnt it?
Well, then you went and grew up. Try having all that alfresco fun as an
adult and youre going to get a lot of funny looks. But theres one way to
play in your back yard without becoming the neighborhood eccentric: get out and garden.
Not only is gardening enjoyable on its with climate-appropriate plants and grow
own, its a natural accompaniment to fer- them well. A little investigation up front is
menting. Grow it fresh, brew it fresh, and worth months (or years) of frustration.
reap the rewards of both hobbies in a most USDA Hardiness Zones are a solid
satisfying way. Name two other mutual starting point that can narrow your initial
pursuits whose industry results in an invi- plant list before you move on to other con-
tation to relax. Do a little harvest, make a siderations. The zones, developed by the
little must, and sit down tonight (or in a few United States Department of Agriculture,
months, unless theres homebrew already identify the average minimum tempera-
in your fridge). ture likely in a particular area. Be aware,
though, that in this case hardiness means
PICKING YOUR PLANTS only tolerance of a certain range of low tem-
Before you get out there planting and tend- peratures. It doesnt mean the plant is nec-
ing your garden, theres the planning. essarily a rugged performer in that region.
The most basic consideration is select- For instance, apricot trees are hardy in
ing plants that will work in your climate. USDA Zone 8, but in coastal Northwest
Theres a reason people dont grow avoca- Zone 8, the buds of most apricots are killed
dos in Seattle or apples in Florida. Sure, by spring frosts and the trees fall victim to
you can experiment with out-of-region various diseases due to dampness.
plants, but really, with all the great things The Zones also dont reveal a plants tol-
you can grow, why bother? Seek success erance or need for summer heat, humidity,
BEFORE YOU BEGIN | 9

Above and opposite: Whether you draw inspiration for your garden from the garden center or the great
outdoors, the options are endless to craft a space to suit your home and brewing needs.
insulating snow cover, number of chill mon mistakes made by gardenersgreen

hours, or day lengthall big factors in plant thumbs as well as greenhornsis not tak-
performance. For these reasons and more, ing into account a plants true height and
privately-owned local nurseries, County spread at maturity. The size listed on the
Extension Services, and fellow garden- nursery tag of long-lived plants is an esti-
ers are excellent sources of advice before mation of the size at ten years, not neces-
you plant. Many Extension offices of state sarily when full-grown. This makes a big
land grant colleges also have websites with difference not just when spacing plants
expert gardening information. Community from each other but from a structure or a
garden tours that let you get up close and driveway.
personal with plants and varietals that per- Thats not the only pitfall. Some plants
form where you live are another option. are just too willing to perform. These are the
Now you know some plants that can dreaded invasives. Do you like mint? If you
grow in your garden. But wait just a min- planted it in your garden, lets hope so, for
ute. Filling a garden is about more than you will never be rid of it. How about some
what you can grow; its also a matter of what horehound to brew homegrown gruit beer?
you shouldnt grow. One of the most com- Allow it to reseed just once and gird your
10 | CHAPTER 1

loins for an onslaught of seedlings. That iar with your propertys microclimates; the
doesnt mean you have to exile these lovely little places that hold heat, invite frost, or
bullies from your garden altogether, just are the last place to lose the sun as the
take extra care by confining them to pots or days shorten. Put these mini-zones to work
removing seedheads before they ripen. for you, placing heat-loving plants in a
You and your plants: Its a symbiotic sunny, south-facing situation and those
relationship. The plants must serve your that appreciate a bit of moisture in that
needs, but you, in return, must serve theirs. consistently damp area. When choosing
This means siting your little green friends your plants, do your research and let the
based on what they require. Become famil- plant tag be your guide.

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Decoding the Plant Profiles PLANT TYPE: An annual grows from seed,
In this book, youll find plant profiles for sets seed, and dies within a single grow-
just about everything we discuss. Theyll ing season. A biennial grows foliage the
provide the nuts and bolts needed for you first year; the second year it flowers, sets
to figure out whether the plant will be a seed, and dies. A perennial lives for several
good fit for you or not. Theyll also provide years, some for only a few, some for a cen-
important growing information and other tury or more. Most perennials die to the
things to keep in mind once the plant is in ground in the dormant season and come
the ground. back from the roots in spring.
A shrub (or bush) is a woody plant up
PLANT NAME: These are the plants you to 10 feet tall with several stems rising from
know and love by their common name: i.e., the ground. A tree is woody plant, generally
cucumber, tomato, apple, lavender. 10 feet or taller (except dwarf varieties),
with a single trunk and lateral branches.
BOTANICAL NAME: Common names are well An evergreen doesnt lose its foliage in the
and good most of the time, but some- dormant season as a deciduous plant does.
times its nice to know exactly what youre Most evergreens are coniferous (coned),
talking about. Botanical nomenclature needled plants, but some are broadleaf,
provides a scientific identity for every having leaves rather than needles. On the
plant known to mankind. It provides a other hand, not every coniferous, needled
standard by which plants are recognized plant is evergreen; conifers such as larch
throughout the world, which serves two and dawn redwood lose their needles in
important purposes for the home gar- autumn. And not every plant with cones
dener. First, it heads off any confusion. If has needles, notably the gingko.
a friend offers you a piece of her favorite
daisy plant, its helpful to know which of USDA ZONES: Every region of the United
at least a dozen different genera known States has a USDA-assigned Hardiness
as daisy youll be receiving. Second, it Zone, which reflects the areas average
provides insight into plants within a gen- minimum temperatures. Plants are rated
era. Take lavender, for example: The name according to the USDA Zones in which they
Lavendula augustifolia (English lavender) will survive.
tells you your species is hardier and much
more fragrant than Lavendula stoechas HEIGHT: Its important to keep in mind the
(Spanish lavender). size listed on the nursery tag of long-lived
12 | CHAPTER 1

plants is an estimation of the size at ten WATER: Some plants, such as many herbs,
years, not necessarily when full-grown. prefer soil that dries out completely
between waterings. These low-water plants
SOIL: Loam is a good garden soil of clay and can even withstand extended periods of
sand containing humus. Humus is decom- drought. High-water plants need soil that
posed organic matter in the soil. A boggy is consistently moist. Plants that prefer
soil is one that never completely dries out. boggy ground must have soil that is con-
Peaty soil contains large quantities of peat, sistently wet. Between the extremes of wet
which holds moisture and tips the pH into and dry lie the majority of plants that are
the acid range. Well-drained soil does not most comfortable with regular water, an
hold moisture for long. inch or so per week, and soil that becomes
dry only briefly, if at all.
LIGHT: Full sun typically means at least six
hours per day of direct sunlight. However, PROPAGATE BY: Plants propagated by seed
many plants, such as vegetables, do better can be either direct-seededplanted
with at least ten hours. directly into the groundor grown in pots

and planted out as starts. Any method of SOIL
propagation other than by seed is asex- Now that youve narrowed down what to
ual propagation, which produces clones plant, lets see what youve got to plant it in.
of the original plant. Division creates new Is your ground soil, or is it just plain dirt?
plants by dividing the rootball, either by If its easy to dig and neither too soggy nor
slicing out a section with a shovel, or by too sandy, chances are you have something
digging up the entire clump and cutting it to work with. However, a load of well-rotted
into pieces with a shovel, pruning saw, axe, compost or manure tilled into the growing
knife, or loppers. areanot just the planting holeis almost
Cuttings are most often taken of stems. always a worthwhile investment. If your
Cuttings are typically dipped in rooting soil is more like rocky hardpan, consider
hormone, placed in a soilless mix such as rising above it with bermed beds of quality
half peat moss and half perlite. The mix is topsoil mounded on top, or giving up on it
kept consistently moist. The time of year altogether and growing in containers. With
and size of the cuttings is determined by any garden, there is preparation involved.
the plant to be propagated. If your property isnt blessed with rich,
Layering is a long-term but easy pro- dark earth, you can enhance it by add-
cess for certain plants. A branch still ing soil amendments every year. Garden
attached is nicked below a node (the point compost, chicken or livestock manure, or
from where the leaves grow) and that point mushroom compost all add humus to the
is bent down and buried just below the soil dirt. If you make a habit of improving your
surface where its held in place by, usu- soil every year with nutritious mulch, your
ally, a rock. If kept moist, the node should soil can become the envy of the neighbor-
root. Once the area is well rootedwhich hood in a few years time.
can take up to a yearthe new plant is cut
free, but not dug out. In several months Note: Many herbs actually prefer lean, dry
to a year, the layered plant should be well conditions, and produce better flavors in
established and ready to dig and replant. infertile soil. These low-water, hot-summer
Many fruit trees are propagated by herbs include thyme, rosemary, oregano,
grafting or budding. Grafting brings sage, anise, caraway, and bay laurel. It
together a branch from the desired tree doesnt matter if theyre growing in Idaho or
(called a scion) onto the roots of a tree Alabama; they long for the sun, sandy soil,
of the (usually) same species. Budding and warm winters of the Mediterranean.
attaches a bud from the donor tree to a If you wish to grow them well, make their
larger rootstock. Scions and buds can also dreams come true with at least six to eight
be attached to established trees. hours of full sun on the south side of the
14 | CHAPTER 1

house in northern climates. Although their spray a foliar-acting herbicide and proceed
roots require excellent drainage, a soil once the weeds have died, which can be
amended with compost actually helps cre- in one to three months, depending on the
ate a loose, light, loam. Newly planted herbs herbicide used, time of year, and type of
need to be watered until theyre estab- weeds. For those who wish to keep chemi-
lished, as evidenced by strong growth. At cals out of the equation, the same effect
this point they demand water only during can be achieved much more slowly with a
dry spells and heat waves. A little complete four-inch or more layer of mulch or card-
fertilizer or compost worked into the soil board or four-sheets-thick or more layer
around the roots at the start of spring is of newspaper, completely covering every
all these herbs need to stay healthy. With inch of the feral ground and topped by a
their craving for warmth and drought, its 3-inch or more layer of leaves, compost, or
no surprise Mediterranean herbs are nat- manure. Up to a year might be required
urals for containers. until all the weeds are truly dead. Some,
If youll be building a new bed out of such as horsetail, may simply refuse to
a weed-ravaged piece of ground, there are die . . . ever. Tilling without first killing
several ways to turn it into a lovely, loamy, existing plant life will only propagate many
virgin garden plot. The quickest way is to of the weeds youre trying to eliminate. If
Make-It-Yourself Compost
W hen making your own compost, allow it to completely break down in

its own pile before incorporating in the soil. Plant matter allowed to rot
in soil with seedlings or other young plants will tie up nitrogen needed by the
young crop. However, pre-composted material can be used as a mulch or a fall
amendment in a bed that will lie fallow until spring. When mixing fresh material
into the ground, a sprinkle of an organic nitrogen source, such as blood meal,
poultry manure, or alfalfa meal, will help the compost break down faster and
prevent the heartbreak of nitrogen deficiency.

The Difference between a Soil Amendment and Mulch
I ts important not to confuse the terms soil amendment and mulch. Simply
stated, the difference between the two is about where it is, not what it is. A soil
amendment is anything worked into the soil to improve it. Amendments include
compost, alfalfa pellets, coir fiber, and lime. Mulch stays on the surface of the
soil. Mulches include organic and inorganic materials such as wood chips, gravel,
straw, bark, and leaves; these neednt be broken down before being shoveled on.
Well-rotted organics, notably compost and manure, can be used as either a soil
amendment or a mulch. Most materials should be allowed to break down before
they are used as soil amendments, especially tree-based matter such as wood
chips, sawdust, and leaves, which, as it rots, will tie up nitrogen needed by the
plants. If the beds are to be planted within a few days or weeks, use only manure
that has sat for at least six months to allow excess ammonia and salts to leach
away, and to decrease pathogens. Fresh manure can be put directly on or in beds
if they wont be planted for at least three or four months.
turning a lawn into a garden, strip off the Austrian field peas, buckwheat, alfalfa, or
sod in sheets and compost it. At any stage, rye and vetch. When the plants begin to
a 3- to 4-inch mulch on top of the soil will flower, plough them under to improve the
discourage weed seeds from germinating. soil. Once the cover crop has been turned
Once the ground is vacant, till it or under, wait three weeks before planting to
simply start planting. If you have bare allow the material to rot and yourself time
ground and several months before you to apprehend any clumps of the crop that
intend to plant, consider sowing a cover struggle to re-root.
crop (also known as green manure) in Fall is a good time to amend your gar-
spring or fall. Cover crops include, but den with cover crop, compost, manure,
are not limited to, crimson clover, fava, and other soil conditioners. By spring, the
16 | CHAPTER 1

ground should be settled, enriched, and a cover crop, tilling is required, unless you
ready to growa highly desirable condition take an annual crop such as fava, mow it
known as having good tilth. Once garden low and let the roots die; however, you then
soil has reached this enviable state, annual lose the advantage of all that green material
tilling is not only unnecessary, it can be returned to the soil. In lieu of cover crop,
harmful to the structure and microbial bal- add a 3- to 4-inch blanket of compost or
ance of the soil. Of course, if youre growing manure to the top of the beds each year.

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT garden will consist of a window box, all you
As a budding gardener, you have lots of really need is an old spoon and a watering
exciting options and opportunities ahead. can, but if youre planning to get serious
But one thing is as certain as it is mun- about gardening youll need some basic
dane: youre going to need a shovel. If your equipment.

Tools and Equipment
Shovel: You will need at least one stan- areas of the garden is much more
dard round-point shovel, although two or convenient than dragging one hose
three are better. everywhere. A screw-on hose nozzle with
Trowel: for planting and digging shallow a simple on/off switch saves water or trips
holes or those in close quarters. Narrow- back to the faucet if you need to pause
bladed trowels can be handy for prying while watering.
out the roots of tap-rooted weeds and Sprinkler: better yet, soaker hoses put
small stones from rocky soil. the water right where you want it.
Soil (bowhead) rake: for spreading Wheelbarrow: Its hard to beat an
mulch, leveling soil, clearing the soil sur- old-fashioned wheelbarrow for moving
face, or rebuilding mounded raised beds stuff in, around, and out of the garden.
after tilling. A metal, bamboo, or plastic If your gardens small, a bucket or large,
leaf/lawn rake is also useful for cleaning plastic nursery pot makes a good weed
soil and collecting leaves. collector in lieu of a wheelbarrow. A
Oscillating hoe: This cuts weeds off at handtruck can be a back-saver if there
the crown or uproots them entirely when are large pots or bags of potting soil to
slid back and forth just under the surface transport.
of the soil. Easy to work around plants, it Gardening gloves: Dont be a hero.
wont remove tap-rooted plants like dan- Latex-dipped garden gloves are available
delion; to remove deeply rooted weeds at practically every nursery and home
such as these, try a slender, fork-tongued improvement store. Theyre inexpen-
asparagus knife (also known as a fishtail sive and can save your green thumbs
weeder). from spines, stings, infections, and dirty
Hand pruner: for pruning, deadheading, fingernails.
taking cuttings, and harvesting. Garden clogs: A quality pair of water-
Lopper: for pruning with leverage. proof garden clogs will keep your feet dry
Pruning saw: If you have trees or large and the dirt out of your living room, if you
shrubs, a pruning saw is handier than a get in the habit of removing them at the
carpenters saw. door. Good garden clogs are comfortable,
Hoses: Invest in good quality, non- slip on and off without your bending
kinking hoses. Having hoses in various over, and last for many years.

PLANTING starting. Bareroot trees and perennials are
Its time to break in that new shovel! Trees available in late winter or early spring and
and perennials grown in containers (those should be planted immediately. Seeds are
with a rootball) can be planted any time variable as to the time of year and method
except during the hottest or coldest weather. of planting they prefer. Refer to the packet
During the dormant season, newly planted directions.
perennials may languish and rot in the When planting a tree, dig the hole as
cold, wet soil, so its best to wait until the deep and twice as wide as the rootball or
end of the dormant season when growth is bare roots to be planted. For perennials

To Stake or Not to Stake
S take trees or other plants only if you have doubts about their ability to stand
on their own. When allowed to move with the wind, a plant develops a stur-
dier trunk and root system. If your newly planted tree has a trunk that is too weak
to stay upright, or if the roots are incapable of supporting a top-heavy plant,
staking will be necessary. Pound two stakes into the ground, one to either side of
the rootball. Do this while you can see the roots, if possible, to avoid damaging
them. Tie the trunk with broad, soft ties such as nylon stockings, strips of fabric,
or commercial ties from a garden center. Place the tiesone to either sideat
the point where they hold the trunk in position. Leave enough slack for the trunk
to move 23 inches in every direction. Remove the supports by the time the
plant is a year old.
and annuals, dig the hole the size of the and eschewing the comparatively dull
rootball plus an extra inch or two. The dirt at the borders. If youre feeling frisky,
roots of bareroot plants should be soaked the best course of all is to amend the
in a bucket of water for four hours (but no entirebed.
longer than a day) prior to planting. For Backfill the hole halfway with soil,
potted plants, gently loosen the roots and pressing it in firmly. The top of the rootball
settle the plant in. For all plants, refill the should be level with the top of the ground.
hole with the same soil that came out of Pour water to the top of the remaining hole.
it; amending only the soil that goes into When the water has soaked in, finish back-
the hole will encourage the new roots to filling. Build a circular levee of soil around
grow around in that small space, enjoy- the dripline to trap future waterings over
ing the rich banquet you have provided the roots.

SEEDING Seeding Indoors
The time to plan your seed-grown garden Many annuals, vegetables, and perenni-
isnt springits winter. Right after the als can be sown indoors to give the plants
new year, start checking seed catalogs and a head start. In general, the seeds are
online sites and get your order in as soon as planted four to eight weeks before you wish
possible. In some cases, seeds can go in the to put them in the ground. Use small pots
ground as early as February. While its all or cell packs. Sterile, soilless seed-start-
right to use seed thats been stored for a year ing mix is available at most nurseries and
or two in an airtight container in the crisper worth seeking out. Fill the pots with the
drawer of the refrigerator, fresh seed, dated mix and dampen it thoroughly. Hot water
that year, is always your best bet. is taken up better than cold by the peat
Research your seeds to determine moss or coir fiber that serves as the base of
when they should be planted and if they most of these sterile mixes.
prefer being sown directly in the ground or Plant the seeds according to packet
started in pots indoors. A general rule of directions. Put more seeds in each pot
thumb is that seeds are planted no deeper than you need; youll thin to the best plant
than their diameter. This means that very later. To avoid dislodging the seeds when
fine seed should be planted at or barely watering, place the pots in a tray and water
below the surface of the soil. Larger seeds from the bottom. Remove the pots when the
can be pushed into the ground to inch soil is moist. Many seeds dont need light
deep, depending on their type and size. to germinate, but they do need warmth. A
If you plant your seeds in the correct seed-starting heat mat under the pots can
season in a bed that gets plenty of sun and be a great help in maintaining the correct
warmth, your only saboteurs are likely temperature. Keep the mix moist; once the
to be dry soil and pests. Slugs, rabbits, seeds begin the process of germination,
earwigs, cutworms, mice, and voles can even a brief spell of complete dryness is a
all take a toll on seedlings. If you notice death sentence.
sprouts and seed-leaves neatly clipped off, On the day the first seedling breaks
or disappearing altogether, you may want ground, bring on the lightand lots of it.
to visit your garden with a flashlight in the Shop lights with fluorescent bulbs placed
dead of night to catch the perpetrator in the an inch or two above the little plants are
act. Although seedlings are tougher than a steady, relatively cool source of light. As
they seem, one thing they cannot tolerate the plants grow, raise the lights, always
is dehydration. Dont let the seedbed dry keeping them barely above the top leaf.
out completely. On the other hand, consis- Unless you are extremely disciplined, put
tently soggy soil can be just as deadly. the lights on a timer that keeps them on
22 | CHAPTER 1

eighteen hours a daysay on at 5 a.m. and nation can create temperatures that will
off at 11 p.m. To bring extra light to the quickly dehydrate the growing medium.
plants, and make the mornings and eve- As soon as possible, thin to the strong-
nings a bit darker for you, run sheets of est seedlings, usually one per pot or cell.
aluminum foil from the edge of the lights to Once the true leaves show (the first leaves
the base of the pots; these sheets are eas- to appear are the seed leaves), begin feed-
ily pulled aside for daily plant checks. The ing with a heavily diluted complete fertilizer
seedlings can be removed from the heat every week or two. If the plants outgrow their
mat once most of them have germinated. pots before they can safely be planted out-
Be cautious about using the heating mat side, pot them up to a larger container using
and shop lights together, as the combi- regular potting soil and a little time-release

fertilizer. Ten days to two weeks before they pensive, and low-tech way to keep water
will be planted outside, begin to harden right where its needed. For most plants,
off the plants by setting them outside for a an annual mulch of compost or manure
few hours each day. Begin with two or three can be the difference between surviving
hours in the shade on a relatively warm and thriving. When mulching, keep the
day, and gradually work up to a full day in material from touching the trunk or stem.
the sun, or wherever it is theyll be planted. Feeding will also boost the performance
Once theyre acclimated, its time to put of your plants, especially ones that are
them in the ground. just becoming established. Most plants
appreciate a complete fertilizer such as
Care after Planting fish emulsion applied in spring. Plants in
Dont let newly planted perennials, shrubs, containers and those grown from seed may
or trees dry outat least not during their need more frequent feeding.
first two or three summers in the ground. Regular watering during the growing
Soaker hoses are a convenient, inex- season makes for healthy mature plants
Orchard trees with alpine strawberries

as well. If fruit is not your goal, cut off vines. Formal herb gardens, or a meadow
spent flowers (deadhead) after blooming to of herbs, can include many of the ingredi-
keep plants neat. Thin tree fruit as sug- ents for gruit beer and ancient ales.
gested under plant listings to improve the Hops may be grown on an arbor over-
quality of the remaining fruit and prevent hanging a patio, provided you keep them
branches from breaking. When it comes to far enough from seating areas to prevent
pruning, different plants require different them from enveloping your guests heads
styles, but dead wood can be removed any in hops. A simple structure of columns
time the pruners are sharp, as the saying holding up overhead beams that attach at
goes. If you have an old, overgrown tree, their far ends to the house may not be a
consider hiring an arborist certified by traditional hops support, but will create a
the International Society of Arboriculture fine grotto for summer lounging while still
to bully it into shapeprobably over the providing a harvest, especially if your hops
course of three or more years. receive plenty of light. Hops also can be
used as a backdrop if grown vertically up
BOUNTY WITH BEAUTY: posts or on a pole-and-wire system.
PLANNING A PRODUCTIVE When it comes to cider, a 20-foot
GARDEN square of backyard can hold one stan-
Nowhere is it written that you have to dard apple tree, two semi-dwarfs, or four
choose between a beautiful landscape fully dwarf trees. Three dwarf apple trees
and a productive garden. Dont hide your leave room for another type of fruit tree to
garden away! Plant it proudly in the front round out your cider-making possibilities.
yard, or, better yet, make it the heart of an Depending on your zone, consider a dwarf
outdoor living area where you go to relax, peach, quince, or sour cherrygreat cider
read, entertain, and enjoy the company of additions all. Your three dwarf apple trees
your family. Just about any plant you can should, in two or three years, present you
brew or ferment will do double-duty as an with enough fruit for about 9 gallons of
ornamental part of the landscape. A grape fresh cider. If your climate is mild, give the
trellis is a natural living screen. A small king of cider apples, Kingston Black, a try.
fruit tree takes center stage with a blush For your second tree, consider a bittersweet
of spring blossoms and bounty of summer such as a vigorous Major or Medaille DOr.
fruit. Dense green globes of dwarf Sitka Your third tree can round out your cider
spruce slowly grow into pyramidal ever- triumvirate with a sweet such as a Grimes
green shrubs that are the basis of a dis- Golden, which is aromatic and doubles as
tinctive seasonal specialty beer. An arbor a culinary apple, or a Roxbury Russet with
shades a porch swing beneath a roof of hop the same characteristics but also offers

good storage and a tolerance for colder cli- ciders and perries come from apples and
mates. In place of a sweet cider apple, you pears that were bred not for fermenting but
can plant your favorite culinary apple. Just for eating out-of-hand. Happily, most of us
be sure it ripens around the same time as can grow a cider tree in our home garden;
its orchard-mates; this not only makes for one productive semi-dwarf tree will pro-
convenient pressing but also helps ensure vide you with plenty of pome-fruit potables.
pollination since apples that ripen together Hops are another example: those used
generally bloom together. in commercial beers are generally cho-
Even a small garden space can pro- sen for their heartiness and productivity;
duce ample amounts of brewing material. less robust but distinctively flavored hops
Espaliered fruit trees turn an abandoned may be ignored. However, for a backyard
sunny side yard into a fruit-producing area, grower, these specialty vines can often be
for the width of only a few feet. If the area is grown at home with only a little more care
wide enough, add some blueberry bushes, than their professionally preferred kin.
strawberry groundcovers, herbs, and a few Berries are equally well suited to the
strictly ornamental plants to turn it into a home garden. As we all know, berries
five-star side garden. To make it seem even dont travel well and their freshness is
less of an alleyway, run a gently curving easily lost. In the landscape they are for-
path through. In a larger space, well-placed giving plants that deliver their taste of
pots of anything from grasses to vegetables summer from backyard to freezer to fer-
break up the space, and with a colorful bis- menter. Rows of bramble berries can be
tro table and chairs, your brewers garden worked into the landscape with aestheti-
doubles as a place to decompress after a cally pleasing mown-lawn paths between.
long day of work. Add a bubbling fountain, New varieties of raspberry can be grown
aromatic lilies or honeysuckle, a glass of in pots. Blueberry bushes are handsome,
home-crafted, ice-cold, dark-as-night por- all-season plants that often throw fall color
ter, and your senses are filled. into the mix. Elderberry bushes make
As a home grower, you have one big dense summer screens. Cranberries are
advantage over commercial brewers and true groundcover plants that, as with all
fermenters: You can grow specific and creepers, require maintenance to discour-
specialized plant varieties that make the age competition from weeds, but in the end
difference between a mediocre beverage give you a crop to show for your efforts.
and a memorable one. For instance, true Technically, an herb is any plant used
cider and perry trees are rare in the United for seasoning, medication, or fragrance.
States, yet their fruit is the best way to For our purposes, herbs will also be used to
ensure a quality product. Most stateside add layers of interest to alcohol. Herbs are
26 | CHAPTER 1


age:26 (Text) 06-AC74011 Dtp:VIVIAN Page:27
notoriously easy to grow. Give them well- dont need rich soil, but do appreciate a
drained soil, six to eight hours of sun a day, complete fertilizer each spring. Herbs are
keep them trimmed (preferably by harvest- good candidates for container culture. As a
ing), and be prepared to replace them every bonus, herb-filled pots can be placed close
few years when they decline. Most herbs to the house for convenient harvesting.
Meyer lemon bush

The Container (Balcony) Garden if your pot will sit on a wood deck or other
Herbs are by no means the only plants that surface that might be damaged by constant
take to containers. With a little ingenuity, moisture, put three or four pot feet around
a collection of pots, and an apartment bal- the bottom edge of the container. This also
cony with good sun, you can grow many of makes the bottom of the pot less attractive
the plants mentioned in this book. True, to slugs, snails, and earwigs.
the size of your harvest will be smaller The potting soil you use should be a
than that of a backyard garden, so plan reputable commercial mix, with or with-
wisely to ensure you have the amount out time-release fertilizer. Fill the pot to the
you need for whatever recipe you have in point where the plants will sit at the correct
mind. Containers are also useful for exper- height. A little alfalfa meal makes a good soil
imenting with plants that may not be win- amendment, delivering organic nutrition to
ter-hardy in your area: Meyer lemon trees roots in this confined space. Now add the
can be container grown in almost any cli- plants and finish filling with potting mix,
mate. In a portable pot they can be snow- leaving plenty of room for water. Pour in
birds, spending summers outdoors and water until it runs from the drainage holes.
winters indoors. For other plants, such Plants in pots need more water than those
as dwarf peaches, this mobility is equally in the ground. At the height of summer they
handy. Peach trees can be moved under may need to be watered once a dayor even
eaves or other shelter to keep peach leaf moredepending on the plant, the site,
curlabetting rain off the emerging leaves the size of the pot, and how thoroughly you
in late winter, after which the plants can go watered last time. Containerized plants also
into a sunny spot where their ripening fruit need more frequent feedings: mix time-re-
will be enjoyed as a garden ornament, and lease pellets into the soil or water with a liq-
then as a fermentable delicacy. uid fertilizer every couple of weeks.
When choosing containers themselves, Whether youre cultivating acreage or
look for those with a least one drainage hole. a few square feet, your brewing garden is a
Keep in mind the weight of the container place to kick back and let your fancy turn
plus the moist potting soil if you need to lightly to thoughts of delicious things to
move it. Good quality, lightweight containers drink. Crack open a bottle of liquid gold
of fiberglass and resin are a popular alter- lovingly put away the previous fall. Let the
native to handsome, though heavy, ceram- birds sing. Let the bees drone from flower
ics. Weighty containers are a good choice to flower, pollinating the coming harvest.
for trees and tall plants at risk of blowing What could be finer than relaxing in the
over. If you favor hefty planters, invest in a midst of this intoxicating environment,
handtruck to prevent a slipped disc. Finally, enjoying the labors of your fruit?

CHAPTER 2
The Big Beer Ingredients

Growing Hops, Malt, and Other Grains

I
s there anything friendlier than a glass of beer? Pull up a stool and tell me about
your day. Lets get the gang together for a cold one after work. Time for a clambake?
Dont forget the beer. Whether poured by a barmaid in a place where everybody
knows your name, oreven betterserved from your own homegrown, home-
brewed stash, an amber-colored ale lolling beneath a frothy white head signals that happy
hour is here. Were all friends together; bring on the beer!
Casual, yes, but beer is far from unso- one. As a hobby, the practice is not hard to
phisticated. Just because no one expects learn, and, with experience, can result in
you to smell the cap and swish a sip around beer that is better than the average selec-
in your mouth when the bottle arrives tion available in the coolers of the local gro-
doesnt mean brewed equals boring. When cery. Brewing is a frugal avocation too. After
it comes to nuance, beer can hold its own the initial outlay for the equipment, the cost
against fine wines. Whether you favor the of homebrewed can be a fraction of that of
refreshing crispness of a European lager, commercially produced beers. Best of all,
the hoppy happiness of an IPA, or the dark no one has more friends than the man or
voluptuousness of a stout, theres a beer woman who makes beer.
for nearly every taste. But theres more to So why not take brewing one step fur-
brewing than malt and hops; from pump- ther? For the brewer who is adventurous or
kin to lemon balm, the list of uncommon set on making a truly local beer, there is no
additions to the beverage is as odd as it greater source of pride than using ingredi-
isendless. ents from your own backyard garden. From
In fact, the great diversity of beer makes hops and barley to pumpkin and peppers,
it attractive not only to those who enjoy a and herbs of all types, homebrewed is a
good brew, but to those who wish to create natural segue to homegrown.
THE BIG BEER INGREDIENTS | 31

rub against the bristly bines, hops are a
beautiful, useful addition to the garden.
The bines will sprawl if unsupported and
are best grown vertically. When trained up
trellises, poles, or stringed supports, they
can stretch to 20 feet or more. In summer,
the handsome three-lobed leaves are joined
on female plants by papery, cone-like flow-
ers properly termed strobili.
Within these flowers lies the essence
of modern beer. Small glands between the
scale-like bracts of the female hops flow-
ers produce a yellow powder called lupulin.
HOPS This resinous substance contains alpha
Hobbyists have one big advantage over cor- and beta acids that give beer its distinc-
porate breweries: Small batches lend them- tive flavor and acts as a preservative. Hops
selves to fresh ingredients and encourage are dioeciouseach plant either male or
experimentation. After all, the dawn of female. Only females produce cones. In
beer saw brewers using everything from hopyards, male strays are removed from
nettles to wormwood. Many of the plants the premises faster than leather-jacketed
used to make beer can be easily grown in a lads who call on the sheriffs daughter. The
home garden. Perennial hops, for instance, males are easily unmasked; upon bloom-
are incorrigible extroverts. Their botan- ing the male flowers are merely flowers,
ical name, Humulus lupulus, gives a clue very different from the papery inflores-
to their untamed nature. The genus name cences of the female.
lupulus means small wolf, referring to the Fortunately for the backyard grower,
Romans observation that the plants are female plants are the only sex commonly
quite capable of swallowing up their gar- sold. Hops plants are also easily shared,
den neighbors. Give hops plenty of sun, and a piece of female hops rhizome donated
enough water, and the slightest excuse, by a fellow gardener will yield another
and they will run wild across the fields and female plant. Male plants are not necessary
menace passers-by with stems covered in to female flowering; in fact, if the females
tiny, flesh-grabbing hooks. are fertilized, the resulting seeds make the
For gardeners who admire ambition cones useless for beer production. The flow-
in their plants and know better than to ers of hops make beer, not the fruit.
32 | CHAPTER 2

Hops
BOTANICAL NAME: Humulus lupulus thegrowing season, prune the vines
PLANT TYPE: perennial vine to 23 feet.
USDA ZONES: 38 HARVEST: From midsummer on,
HEIGHT: 20 feet or more with trellising check the cones regularly for ripe-
SOIL: well-drained loam ness. Indicators are a pleasant
LIGHT: full sun aroma, papery feel, andin some
WATER: regular varietiesa change in color from
GROWTH HABIT: vining bines. The plants green to yellow-green. Ripe cones feel
should be trellised. dry and will leave behind a slightly
PROPAGATE BY: rhizomes. Plant the rhi- sticky lupulin residue upon hand-
zomes vertically with the buds facing ling. Begin picking at the top of the
up, or horizontally 1 to 2 inches deep plants where the cones are likely to
after the threat of frost is past. be ready soonest. On a single plant,
SPACING: 3 feet between plants of the the cones mature at different rates,
same cultivar or 5 feet between dif- so be prepared to harvest every few
ferent varieties days until the cropping is complete,
YEARS TO BEARING: one to three. The usually by the end of September.
first years crop is usually weak. NOTES: A single well-grown hops plant
Generally, hops plants take three can yield up to 6 pounds of fresh
years to produce a brew-worthy conesplenty for most homebrewers.
harvest. Yields continue to increase Fertilize first-year plants once a
over the next several years. month with a balanced fertilizer
PRUNING: Failure to prune results in such as 10-10-10. For established
badly tangled bines and difficulty plants, apply the same fertilizer
inharvesting. Train three to four twice a month from emergence of
main bines up strings on a hops the cones until flowering. A mulch of
trellis. As the season progresses, compost or manure applied once a
cut out any bines that scramble year is helpful.
along the ground. At the end of BEST USED IN: beer, cider

Hops by Climate England and the Midwest, hops may suffer
While hops are extremely accommodating from powdery and downy mildew. Varieties
garden plants in regions where they grow often grown in these areas are Cascade,
well, they do not grow equally well in all Centennial, Columbus, Chinook, Glacier,
regions. Hops plants are cold hardy and can Golding, Hallertau, Magnum, Mt. Hood,
be grown from Canada to northern Mexico. Northern Brewer, Nugget, Perle, Saaz,
However, survival and production are two Summit, Tettnang, and Williamette. Hops
different things. These plants appreciate handle cold well, but they do require a
as many hours of sunlight as they can get. minimum of 120 frost-free days to produce
Hops require a minimum of fifteen hours of cones. Growers in the frigid Midwest have
daylight for optimum flowering, which puts good results with Cascade, Centennial,
them at their best at or above 35 degrees Chinook, Columbus, Galena, Glacier, Mt.
latitude. This range excludes much of the Hood, Northern Brewer, Nugget, Sterling,
lower third of the United States, although Willamette, and Zeus. The best advice
intrepid hop growers report success in when growing hops in the home garden is
such lower Zone 8 states as Florida, North this: keep what performs well, produces
Carolina, Texas, and New Mexico. In hot wantonly, and tastes good; replace the rest.
regions, hops will need less direct sun and If you live in the Pacific Northwest,
more water. Recommended hops varieties rejoice! Washington, Oregon, and Idaho
for hot regions include Cascade, Centennial, are the big three of hops-producing states.
Chinook Clusters, Crystal, Galena, Horizon, Home growers in these states and other
Magnum, Newport, Nugget, and Summit. areas with mild temperatures and low
In states with high humidity, including humidity can choose from such favorites
North Carolina, Florida, and much of New as Cascade, Centennial, Newport, Sterling,
Ornamental Hops
If you have the space for yet another hops plant, consider the lovely golden hops, Humulus
lupulus Aureus. Its name refers to the color of its leaves, which are more of a bright acid
green than gold. Like its green-leaved relatives, this vigorous climber produces decorative,
papery cones in the summer. The cones are not usually used in brewing, but since golden
hops is a genetic mutation of beer hops, their use is at least a possibility.
34 | CHAPTER 2

Talk Hops Like a Pro
Bine: a plant with climbing shoots that circle around an object to climb. In the case of
some bines, including hops, backward-facing bristles help the stems cling. They are dis-
tinct from vines which ascend via suckers or tendrils. Hops (and many other bining plants)
twine clockwise, as opposed to the counterclockwise direction of most vines.
Crown: where the upper structures of a plant meet the roots at or just above the ground.
In the case of hops, which die to the ground each winter, the crown is where new growth
emerges in the spring.
Dioecious: plant species which have male and female flowers on separate plants.
Examples of dioecious plants are hops, holly, cannabis, kiwi, ginkgo, and yew.
Lupulin: a resinous, yellow powder produced by female hops flowers and used by
humans to preserve and flavor beer.
Oast: a structure ranging in size from a barn to a box used to dry hops via circulated heat
or air.
Rhizome: underground stems with the appearance of swollen roots. Hops rhizomes can
be dug up and divided to propagate new plants.
Strobilus: female hops flower. Strobili are cone-like inflorescences.
and Nugget, or can experiment with any way, the next decade will see hops that are
other hop variety that tickles their fancy. daylight-neutral, mildew resistant, early
The choices are head-spinning: There are maturing, and even higher yielding.
more than 100 varieties of hops from across Fortunately, among the dozens of vari-
the globe. Europe, Asia, the Czech Republic, eties available to the homeowner, there
New Zealand, and Australia have all added are already varieties of hops that fare well
to the gene pool. The key ancestor for todays against heat, mildew, pests, and diseases.
bittering cultivars came from Manitoba, At the top of most lists is aromatic, all-pur-
Canada. And new selections keep coming. pose Cascade, which has been performing
Hops hybridizers delight in introducing reliably in a wide range of climates for sixty
new varieties. If the botanists have their years.

Hops for Flavor beer. This antiseptic additive was a break-
Lets not lose sight of the fact that choos- through for early brewers who knew the
ing hops is about more than horticulture; heartbreak of a spoiled cask. Before hops,
its about taste. Brewers know that different beer was made with whatever herbs the
hops impart different characteristics. For brewmaster had on hand. Then one happy
example, hops can be used for bitterness, day, hops came to hand, and beer was
aroma, or both. Which hops are best suited redefined. Flavor was a big piece of the
for each purpose relates to the alpha and epiphany, but equally important were the
beta acids contained in hops flowers that microbe-killing capabilities of hops, which
are integral to the brewing process. Alpha elevated the act of tapping a keg from
acids are so important that hops varieties potential disappointment to predicable joy.
are rated according to how much they pro- In days past, hops with high levels of
duce: The higher the percentage, the higher alpha acids were classed as bittering hops,
the potential bitterness. Be aware, though while those with alpha acid ratios closer to
the alpha acid percentages of homegrown those of its beta acids were termed aroma
hops can vary from year to year. For this hops. This is no longer true. Breeding
reason, many homebrewers use their home- breakthroughs in the United States have
grown hops for aroma purposes only and simplified brewing with the development
use commercial hops for bittering. of dual-purpose hops, such as Simcoe,
The most overt result of these alpha Amarillo, and Citra, which have high alpha
acids is the bitter flavor they bring to beer. acid levels but are also used for aroma.
This quality adds to the distinctive flavor Adding hops after fermentation, also
of beer and offsets the yeasty overtones of known as dry hopping, is widely con-
the malt. Alpha acids are released through sidered the most effective way to extract
boiling. Longer boil times free up more the delicate hop aroma. They also can be
alpha acids, resulting in increasingly bit- extracted during the boil, but if added too
ter brews. Hops that are used for bittering early, the aromatic properties are reduced.
are usually added at the start of a boil that During fermentation and storage, the
will last for at least sixty minutes. All hops alpha acids gradually mellow and beta
release different levels of bitterness, aro- acids increase by oxidation. This process
mas, and flavors depending on when they lies behind the distinctive taste and qual-
are added during the boil. ity of lagers and aged beers. Its also why
In addition, alpha acids have anti- hoppy beers like India Pale Ales are best
bacterial properties that act to preserve consumed fresh.
36 | CHAPTER 2

Hop Varieties
In the United States, hops are best adapted
to Washington, Idaho, Oregon, California,
and other regions with mild temperatures
and low humidity. This does not, however,
rule out home-grown hops in other parts
of the country. At one time or another,
hops have been grown in every state in
the nation. In ultra-chilly New England
and the Midwest, the sticky southeast,
and the baking southwest, hops can be
produced with a bit of extra planning and
preparation.
Hops are hardy in USDA Zones 5 to 9,
but winter hardiness is just one consid-
eration. Know your region and the chal-
lenges hops plants may face. Does high
humidity encourage diseases such as pow-
dery mildew that can kill some varieties to
their crowns? Do harsh, prolonged winters
mean seeking out particularly hardy hops?
Recommendations from local growers can
go a long way toward your success. In the
end, trial and error is your surest means to
a productive hop yard.
The most challenging conditions for Tettnang hops on the bine
hops are hot, dry locales below the 35th
parallel. (Yes, Phoenix, Im talking about
you.) But dedication can win the day. If these punishing regions, bittering hops
you prepare a deep planting bed with lots may be a better bet than aromatics. In this
of compost, are willing to experiment, and case you (the hobby grower) actually have
give your hops lots of shade and water an advantage over commercial growers
(especially in July and August), you have in that you can afford to coddle your few
a chance of overcoming your climate. In plants.

Hops Varieties
Brewers Gold: bittering (high alpha) hop. Crystal: aroma hop. Mild, slightly spicy.
Black currant, citrus. Vigorous. High yield. Citrus. Vigorous. High yield. Cone tolerance
Susceptible to all hop diseases. Midseason to downy mildew.
harvest. OK for Midwest. East Kent Goldings: aroma hop. Spicy,
Bullion: bittering (high alpha) hop. floral, honey. Low yield. Susceptible to
Blackberry. Vigorous. High yield. Somewhat downy and powdery mildew and wilt. OK
disease resistant. Late season harvest. for Midwest.
Cascade: aroma hop. Spicy, floral, citrus. Eroica: bittering (high alpha) hop. Vigorous.
Gives flavor and aroma to American light High yields. Resistant to insects and disease.
lagers, American-style pale ales, and many Midseason harvest.
other brews. Vigorous. High yield. Tolerant Fuggle(s): aroma hop. Mild, grass, flowers.
of verticillium wilt and downy mildew but Traditional English ale hop. Low to moderate
susceptible to aphids. Midseason harvest. yield. Susceptible to verticillium wilt. Early
OK for Midwest and New England. A good harvest. OK for Midwest.
choice for the Southeast. Galena: bittering (high alpha) hop. Black
Centennial: bittering (alpha acid) hop. currant, grapefruit. Very bitter. Vigorous.
Floral, citrus. Good in pale ales. Vigorous. High yield. Midseason harvest.
Moderate yield. Moderately resistant Glacier: dual-purpose (bittering and aroma)
to downy mildew and verticillium wilt. hop. Citrus, fruit. High yield. Susceptible to
Midseason harvest. OK for Midwest and mildew. Midseason harvest. OK for Midwest
New England. and New England.
Chinook: bittering (high alpha) hop. Very Golding: English ale aroma hop. Honey,
bitter. Grapefruit, pine. High yield. Good earthy. Moderate yield. Susceptible to pow-
storage stability. Midseason harvest. OK dery and downy mildew. Early to midseason
for Midwest. Somewhat tolerant of downy harvest. OK for New England.
mildew and highly tolerant of insects, so a Liberty: aroma hop. Spicy, citrus. Good for
good choice for the Southeast. Also a good finishing German-style lagers. Moderate
try for the Southwest. yield. Midseason harvest.
38 | CHAPTER 2

Magnum: bittering (alpha acid) hop. A clean Saaz: high quality aroma hop. Earthy,
bittering hop for ales and lagers. High yield. herbal, mildly floral. Weak grower. Low yield.
Tolerant of downy mildew and wilt; sus- Susceptible to downy mildew. Early season
ceptible to powdery mildew. Good storage harvest. OK for New England.
stability. Late harvest. Good option for Spalt Select: aroma hop. Herbal, floral.
the Southwest. German lager and ale hop. Moderate yield.
Mount Hood: aroma hop. Grapefruit, Tolerant of verticillium wilt, downy mildew.
herbal. Vigorous. Moderate to high yield. Late harvest. OK for Midwest. Good in
Moderately disease resistant. Midseason Pacific Northwest.
harvest. OK for Midwest. Tettnang: aroma hop. Mild, spicy,
Newport: bittering (alpha acid) hop. Herbal, herbal. Good for finishing German lagers.
cedar. High yield. Resistant to powdery mil- Moderately vigorous. Low yield. Tolerant
dew, susceptible to downy mildew. OK for of verticillium wilt. Early season harvest.
Midwest. Good for Pacific Northwest. Good for New England. Also a good try for
Northern Brewer: dual-purpose (bittering the southwest.
and aroma) hop. Spicy, resinous. Low to Willamette: aroma hop. Mild spicy, grassy,
moderate yield. Tolerant of verticillium wilt, black currant. American ale hop. Moderate
susceptible to powdery mildew. Midseason yield. Tolerant of downy mildew, resistant to
harvest. OK for Midwest and New England. viruses. Midseason harvest. Grown almost
Nugget: bittering (high alpha) hop. Spicy, exclusively in the Pacific Northwest. OK for
fruit. Good for light lagers. Vigorous. High Midwest and New England.
yield. Disease resistant. Good storage Zeus: bittering (alpha acid) hop. Black
stability. Midseason harvest. Popular in the pepper, licorice. Vigorous. Hardy. High
Pacific Northwest. OK for Midwest and New yield. Susceptible to downy and powdery
England. A good choice for the Southeast. mildew as well as aphids and mites. Mid- to
Perle: bittering (alpha acid) hop. German lager late-season harvest. OK for Midwest and
hop. Citrus, cedar. Moderate yield. Early season New England Closely related to Columbus
harvest. OK for Midwest and New England. and Tomahawk.

Hops in the Garden which to experiment. Consider starting
At last, its time to stop researching and small with only a few plants. Four plants
start ordering your plants. Grab a cold grown well will yield more and better hops
one and find a source of hops plants that than a whole row of neglected plants. A sin-
specializes in your region, often a local gle well-grown hops plant can yield up to
homebrew supplier. As you peruse their 6 pounds of fresh conesplenty for most
offerings keep this in mind: If your goal homebrewers. Although the initial crop
is to brew, start with at least three or may be disappointing, the harvest will
four varieties. This not only helps ensure increase in subsequent years.
against crop failure but also gives you a Hops are sold as dormant rhizomes or
range of flavors and alpha acid levels with potted plants. Hops in pots can be planted
any time the soil can be worked, but may be
Cascade hops on the bine hard to find in all seasons. Freshly dug rhi-
zomes are offered only in early spring. If the
rhizomes cannot be planted immediately
upon arrival, wrap them in damp newspa-
per or damp sawdust and store in a cool
place. The refrigerator works well if you have
room in your crisper for large, lumpy roots.
When the time comes to plant your
hops, siting is critical. For best produc-
tion, hops want a site with full sun, good
air circulation, soil that neither bakes nor
bogs, and room for some form of trellising.
Although a southern exposure is not abso-
lutely necessary, less optimal exposures
will result in smaller cones. Home grow-
ers should place one plant per hill with a
manageable 3-foot spacing for plants of the
same cultivar, or 5 feet between different
varieties. The difference in spacing between
like and unlike cultivars is one of order
and identification: The closer the plants
are, the more prone they are to hopeless
tangling, in which case youll never know
which flowers youre picking. Tight spacing

also lowers yields as the plants compete bors garagenothing within 10 feet that
for light. Plant the rhizomes vertically with cant run away is immune to their hoppy
the buds facing up, or horizontally 1 to 2 hug. That said, the bines tiny, clinging
inches deep after the threat of frost is past. hooks do not seem to damage the host, espe-
Then stand back. At the peak of growth the cially if the bines are removed each winter
plants can climb as much as a foot per day when they die back to the crown. To be safe,
to a height of 20 feet or more. Bloom time use caution in allowing hops to climb on
is from mid- to late-summer. The plants porch supports or thin-barked trees.
should have at least ten to twelve produc- Although hops will grow up prac-
tive years ahead. tically anything they can wrap them-
Hops are climbers. Period. If not pro- selves around, for ease of picking consider
vided with support, they will find their own. growing your plants on strings or poles
Fences, trees, telephone poles, the neigh- attached at the top to a strong horizontal
You can use a plastic pipe to support your hops.

wire. This system can be designed so that nature with vertical trellis systems that
the wire can be unfastened and lowered for allow maximum sun exposure to the plants
easy harvesting. Once the hops raise their as well as easier access to the cones. Hop
heads a foot above the ground, coax them yards are forests of 18-foot poles spaced 3
clockwise around their supports. As they to 4 feet in rows 14 feet apart. Guy wires
grow, continue to steer them in the right are attached at the top of the poles down
direction as needed. each row. Upright wires are then placed
Fertilize first-year plants once a month along the row in Vs, starting at the ground
with a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10. and angling up to each side.
Follow the manufacturers directions and A system like this is certainly useful
apply to new plants from the first sight of to a home hops growers, however, other
new growth until early July. For established supports can be considered. An old flag-
plants, apply the same ferti lizer twice a pole can be pressed into service, with
month from emergence until flowering. A three or more support lines spaced evenly
mulch of compost or manure applied once around the base, beginning several feet
a year also helps the plants along. Water away and attaching to the top. Even better,
well during the growing season, especially attach them to the pulley system so that
for the first two years after your hops are the lines can be lowered at harvest time.
planted, but dont let them sit in soggy soil. If no flagpole is available, a similar system
In swampy ground, plant the rhizomes in can be devised with a pole or 4x4 post. To
mounds raised 6 to 8 inches above ground avoid posts altogether, three or four sup-
level. If the site drains well, regular water- port wires can be run from the ground and
ing will fuel the bines rocket-like growth angled up to meet at the peak of the eaves
and boost flower production. of a building with a southern exposure;
once again, a pulley makes bringing the
Supporting Your Hops bines down a simple job.
A hops structure must, above all else, be For most hops supports, poles or posts
sturdy. A fancy trellis or elegant arbor for and some form of line is standard. Wire
hops is like a training bra for an under- rope, aircraft cable, or heavy twine can be
wear model: Too much stress and too lit- used. Hops bines will also happily scram-
tle coverage. Forget lacy lattice; you need ble directly up the posts themselves or
support thats up to the job. Although hops the narrow columns of a porch or pergola.
can be grown on a fence or other horizon- Avoid lattice or chain link fencing. The
tal structure, the bines are equally adept bines will tangle hopelessly in anything
at climbing straight up. Professional hops they can, which will make the job of winter
growers take advantage of this upstanding removal a bigger chore than it needs to be.
42 | CHAPTER 2

Developing New Hops
N ot all hops cultivars are available to the homegrowing public. Many newly
developed hops are protected by public and private breeders. Until the
1990s, most new varieties were released directly to the public. Now, however, its
common for private companies to keep their plants proprietary. Thats not to say
homegrowers will never have access to these varieties. Public breeders eventu-
ally bring their best creations to market, and the patents on privately held hops
ultimately expire. And we have plenty to keep us busy in the meantime; while we
wait for the new and novel, there are more than two dozen good and commonly
available cultivars from which we can choose today.
Many modern hops cultivars have arisen, in part, from three key parents.
Brewers Gold (bittering), Fuggle (English aroma), and Hallertauer mittelfrueh
(German aroma) are ancestors of most of the hops available today. Until recently,
breeding programs focused on improved hops strains to replace existing ones.
For example, a new variety may have improved resistance to spider mites, aphids,
or powdery and downy mildew, or produce higher yields, but otherwise match
the acid and alpha ratios of the plant it was designed to replace. This kind of linear
breeding is purely practical; large brewers dont want to change their recipes, but
hop growers benefit from productive plants that require minimal pest control.
The recent rise of the craft beer industry has led to a widening of some
breeding programs to develop cultivars with unique chemical and aroma pro-
files. For professional hops breeders, the road from pollination to production is
a long and expensive one. New releases can be in development for fourteen or
more years. As the new varieties mature, hops breeders compile data on traits
such as disease resistance, yield, age of maturity, coning habit, and many dif-
ferent chemical characteristics such as bittering acids and essential oil content.
Hops take years to come to full fruition.

that are deep green, vaguely damp, and
smell of hay are unripe; if these cones are
pressed between the fingers they remain
flattened while a ripe cone will spring back.
If, on the other hand, cones are beginning
to brown or smell unpleasantly strong,
they have passed their prime.
Begin picking at the top of the plants
where the cones are likely to be ready soon-
est. On a single plant the cones mature at
different rates, so be prepared to harvest
every few days until the cropping is com-
plete, usually by the end of September.
Wear long sleeves and gloves when harvest-
ing to guard against the skin-raking bine
spines. Remove the cones gently, with two
hands, to avoid losing any of the precious
lupulin. Use a picking basket or bag that
can be slung over your shoulder or attached
to your belt to keep your hands free. Once
Harvesting Your Hops picked, the hops should never again be in
Youve been patient, sitting in the shade direct sunlightunless you prefer beer that
of your hops bower dreaming of worts has overtones of scared skunk.
and sparging. Its finally time to harvest The hops may be used immediately
those hops. How do you know? Beginning as green hops in a wet-hopped ale to com-
in Augustas early as June in some memorate the harvest, or dried for future
regionsthe cones should be checked use. In wet-hopped brews, hops fresh off
regularly for ripeness. Indicators are a the plant are added during the boil. This
pleasant aroma, papery feel, and in some gives the resulting beer a fresh, springy
varieties, a change in color from green to flavor. The downside to this is the diffi-
yellow-green. Ripe cones feel dry and will cultly of knowing how much of the fresh
leave behind a slightly sticky lupulin resi- hops to add. When fresh, hops have a much
due upon handling. The base of the bracts higher and more unpredictable moisture
should be heavy with lupulin. To check the ratio than dried hops, and this makes it
readiness of your crop, pull open a cone a bit tricky to judge the amount of green
and look for this dark gold powder. Cones hops to be used in any recipe.
44 | CHAPTER 2

Drying Hops
Most brews rely on dried hops. Dried hops
allow more precise control over lupulin
amounts and, thus, the final result. For
best quality, the hops must be properly
dried as soon after harvest as possible to
preserve their flavor and aroma. Hops can
be dried via old-fashioned air drying or
with mechanically assisted methods such
as a fan, food dehydrator, oven, microwave,
or even a homemade hop drier. Low and
slow should be your mantra when drying
hops. Heat drives off some of the aromatic
complexity of the cones; too much heat will
ruin them completely.
Two preservation methods, air and fan
drying, avoid heat altogether. Air drying
can be done in any warm, dark, dry room
with good air circulation and enough space
for the hops to be laid out in a single layer
on anything from open paper bags to clean fan. Keep watch over the hops in the final
window screens. Fluff the cones every day hours to keep them from becoming overly
or two and cover them with cheesecloth dry. If they dry too much, your lupulin can
if dust is a concern. Your hops should be be gone with the wind.
ready in three days to a week. When the Food dehydrators should be turned to
lupulin is falling away and the stems snap the lowest temperature, around 95 degrees
when bent, the cones are sufficiently dry. Fahrenheit, to dry hops. At this setting
If not thoroughly dried, the hops will mold the cones may take up to three days to
and be unfit for brewing. dry. To avoid having the house smell like
If you recognize the benefits of air dry- a Bourbon Street bar on a Sunday morn-
ing, but crave a more dynamic and faster ing, move the dehydrator to a garage or
method than that of passive screen dry- outbuilding. Ovens pose an even greater
ing, put a fan beneath the screen. For air- aroma risk, since the temperature may be
dried hops in twenty-four hours, attach higher and portability is impossible. Never
two screens together with a layer of hops dry hops at a temperature higher than 140
in between. Bungee cord the result to a box degrees Fahrenheit.

As with all heat-drying methods, micro- backyard harvest. The best reason for con-
waves can reduce the delicate aromatic sidering an oast is to deal with a very large
essence of hops. On the plus side, micro- home harvest consisting of pounds of hops.
waves can dry small batches of hops in only
a few minutes. Dry the cones at fifty per- Storing Hops
cent power. Stir every thirty seconds. When Dried cones should be sealed in airtight
the hops are partially dried, remove them plastic bags. Pack the bags tightly and
and give them time to finish drying. If they squeeze out all the air, or better yet, vacuum
seem at all damp once they have cooled, seal them. The hops can be refrigerated to
return them to the microwave and continue be brewed within a week, or frozen for up
the process. Once again, be prepared for a to a year. When youre ready to fire up the
strong and potentially unpleasant smell. kettle, the hops can be used directly from
Die-hard brewmasters can follow in the freezer. Remove only the hops you need
the footsteps of the professionals by con- as thawing and refreezing can degrade the
structing a hops dryer, known as an oast. essential oils.
Oasts, or hop kilns, are derived from tradi-
tional English oast houses, which are the BARLEY (AND OTHER GRAINS)
size of barns. Oasts rely on heated, circu- If hops are the heart of beer, barley is its
lating air for desiccation. A homemade, bee- backbone. And for good reason: Barley
hive-sized oast may not be as imposing as is an alcohol alchemist. No other cereal
a three-story, furnace-heated architectural grain contains as much of the fermenta-
behemoth, but it is more appropriate to a tion-friendly enzymes that break down
Cannabaceae
H ops, Humulus lupulus, is a member of the family Cannabaceae. Sound famil-

iar? Cannabaceae, as is cannabis, as in marijuana. The two genera, Humulus
and Cannabis, may not be instantly recognizable as relatives, but their flowering
gives a clue to their kinship: both have resinous, imperfect flowers with male
flowers on one plant, female flowers on another.
46 | CHAPTER 2

grains stored starches into the sugars they drop away at threshing. The advantage
required for turning seeds into beer, whis- of hull-less barley is that no special pro-
key, and other spirits. Barleys effect is so cessing is needed to remove the hulls. This
powerful that it acts as a catalyst to fer- is good not only because the process is out-
ment other, less endowed, grains such as side the ability of most backyard growers,
wheat, rice, rye, corn, oats, and millet. but de-hulling hulled barley also removes
Growing your own backyard barley much of the nutritional value of the grain.
may sound hardcore, but its actually sur- Your choice between growing two-row
prisingly easy. Barley, Hordeum vulgare, is or six-row barley may come down to where
a forgiving crop in northern climates. In you live. The designations refer to the
addition, it is high yielding, matures early,
and is widely adapted to all but the hottest
Barley
and driest conditions. It is an annual crop
that completes its entire life cycle within
a yearusually sprouting in spring and
seeding (and dying) in summer. If well sited
and well tended, a 10x10-foot barley bed
can deliver 5 to 15 pounds of grain, enough
for one or two 5-gallon batches of all-grain
brew, or a dozen or more batches of partial
mash. A plot of this size will require to
pound of seed. The thicker the seeding, the
less room there will be for weeds.
Perhaps the hardest part of growing
barley is deciding which kind to grow.
Two-row or six-row? Bearded or beardless?
Hulled or hull-less? Really, the number of
choices seems excessive.
Beard refers to the 3-inch bristle that
extends from each seed. For the home-
grower, the presence or absence of a beard
is important mainly in that the bristles can
be irritating to exposed hands and arms.
They are also irritating to livestock and, on
the plus side, deer. Hull-less is a misnomer
as this kind of barley does have hulls, but

Barley
BOTANICAL NAME: Hordeum vulgare SPACING: Scatter seed across a fallow
PLANT TYPE: annual grass bed, or sow in the rows with twenty
USDA ZONES: 39 twenty-five seeds per foot.
HEIGHT: 23 feet MONTHS TO BEARING: two months once
SOIL: well-draining, fertile loam growth begins in spring.
LIGHT: full sun PRUNING: none
WATER: moist soil during germination, HARVEST: spring-sown barley matures
drier as the crop reaches harvest in about 70 days; fall-planted barley
GROWTH HABIT: grassy ripens about 60 days after growth
PROPAGATE BY: seed. Some varieties resumes in the spring. Reap when
are spring-planted and some barley is dry. Cut, bundle, and shock
are fall-planted. Use 4 pounds of (stack upright in bundles) to dry.
seed per 1,000 square feet. Seed NOTES: Barley comes in two distinct
can bescattered by hand or by a types: two-row or six-row. The type
broadcastseeder; rake into the top you choose will depend, in part, on
12 inches. Keep soil moist during your region.
germination. BEST USED IN: beer
number of rows of seeds on the seedhead: Six-row barley thrives in climates that
two-row barley has a row lined up neatly on exhaust two-row varieties. It is the barley
either side of the center stem; six-row bar- of choice in the Midwest and Mexico. Six-
ley hasas billedsix rows that encircle row barley can be grown in any region
the stem. Six-row barley is a deviation, a where two-row barley does well. To find out
mutation of the ancestral two-row grain. which barleys are best suited to your locale,
Two-row is generally favored for malting inquire at local feed stores or your regional
and brewing, but it grows best where nights Cooperative Extension agency.
are cool. Two-row barley can handle hot Although new hybrids have closed the
days, but needs time to recover when the gap in quality between two- and six-row
sun goes down. This makes it a good choice barleys, differences in protein and enzyme
for coastal areas and much of the West, levels still exist. Two-row barley contains
including Montana, Idaho, Washington, more starch, making it ideal for brewing
Colorado, Wyoming, and British Columbia. and distilling. However, it also has less
48 | CHAPTER 2

Talk Barley like a Pro
Bearded: a type of barley with a 3-inch, stiff, hair-like bristle extending from
each grain of a barley seedhead. These bristles are properly called awns.
Flail: a threshing tool consisting of a wooden staff of about 3 feet long with
a short heavy stick of about 2 feet swinging from it by a leather thong or
metal rings
Hulled: barley with a hard, inedible hull surrounding each grain. Hull-less
varieties actually have a loosely attached hull that falls away during threshing.
Malt: raw grain that has been soaked in water, allowed to germinate, and is
ready for use in brewing and distilling
Mash: crushed malt steeped in hot water to form wort
Sheaf: a bundle of cereal grains harvested, but not yet threshed
Shock: a group of sheaves of grain placed on end with the seed-ends leaning
against each other
Threshing: knocking grains off their stalks
Two-row vs. six-row: two different barley forms. Two-row barley has two rows
of grains, one on either side of the stem. Six-row barley has six rows of grains
encircling the stem. The two forms have slightly different ratios of proteins
and enzymes that give them different roles in brewing. These ratios are also
dependent on the specific barley cultivar.
Winnowing: pouring threshed grain back and forth between two containers
repeatedly to allow the chaff to be blown away by wind, or a fan or blow dryer
Wort: unfermented beer. Technically, wort is the sweet liquid that comes
from mash.

enzymatic power to break down those honey brown. When the heads have turned
starches into simple, fermentable sugars golden, test to see if the grain can be easily
during the mash phase. Six-row barleys pulled from the plant and has hardened to
traditionally contain less starch, but tend the point it can barely be dented by a fin-
to yield more wort-soluble protein. Both gernail. If so, its time to harvest.
types come in a range of beard and hull For the backyard farmer, a sharp hand
styles. Choose your barley based on your sickle or a power trimmer with a string or
personal taste: every cultivar, whether six- blade attachment is the simplest tool for
row or two-row, infuses its own distinctive cutting the stalks. If using a hand sickle,
flavor, aroma, and color in beer. hold the stalks with one hand and swing
Just when you thought the decisions the blade with the other. Lay the stalks
were over, you must now decide whether to neatly along the ground as you go, with
plant your barley in spring or fall. In regions the heads in the same direction. If anyone
where winter temperatures regularly dip asks, you can sound like a professional if
below 20 degrees Fahrenheit, fall planting you tell them you are making windrows.
isnt an option, but in warmer zones, bar- Likewise, when using a power trimmer, the
ley can be sown in September or October goal is to cut the stalks so that they fall
(at least four weeks before the first expected into windrows.
frost), overwintered, and grown on for an Now the barley will need to dry for
early summer harvest, usually sixty days approximately a week to ten days or until
after growth resumes. In all regions, spring the grain can be shaken from the stalks.
plantings can be made in March or April for If you feel lucky, and live where rain is
harvest approximately seventy days later. unlikely, you may simply let cut stalks lie.
Certain types of barley are better adapted If wet weather looms, cover the stalks with
for either spring or fall planting. a tarp. In damper areas, and for Norman
Any good, fertile garden soil in a sunny Rockwell photo opportunities, stack your
site should produce a barley harvest with harvest into shocks. Simply tie the stalks
bragging rights. Seed can be scattered by into 12-inch bundles or sheaves. The
hand or with a broadcast seeder. Rake the sheaves are then stacked upright in teepee
seed into the top inch of soil and water it fashion in groups of twelve or more, form-
in. Continue watering throughout summer ing the shocks. If hungry birds threaten
until the plants begin to change color from your crop, cover the shock tops with fine
green to tan. Allow the stalks to dry to netting or light cheesecloth.
50 | CHAPTER 2

Two-row vs. Six-row
I s six-row barley a sell-out to the man? North American barley farmers have
long favored six-row barley because of its adaptability. In the mid- to late 1800s,
the majority of US barley was grown where most cereal grains were grown, in
the plains states. The hot days and nights of this region made six-row barley
the logical choice. However, the six-row varieties available at the time had a
downside: high soluble protein and enzyme levels that overpowered all-malt
(all-barley) beer.
In other words, six-row barley had too much of the right stuff. To compen-
sate for these overdeveloped levels of wort-soluble proteins, brewers added
unmalted cereal adjuncts from corn and rice. The protein in corn and rice is
largely insoluble and works to dilute the mix. These adjuncts can replace up to
forty percent of a high-protein six-row grist.
August is a difficult time for barley. However, a late April planting can be
allowed to dry to a cornucopia-worthy gold and left standing for effect. Or a
later planting may be made with the express purpose of providing a green barley
meadow to front your beer garden. Keep this crop well-watered during the hot
months and theres a good chance youll harvest grain by autumn.
This is where purists take issue. Although adjuncts were originally used out
of necessity, the development of better balanced six-row barleys means that the
inclusion of large amounts of adjunct is now mostly a function of tradition and
profit. Most corporate brewers continue to include lower-priced adjunct in their
beers. That is not, however, to say that high-protein six-rows dont have their
place in the world of craft brewingthe super-charged diastatic power is useful
for fermenting other specialty unmalted grains such as wheat, rye, and oats.

Threshing, Winnowing, flail; however, for small harvests, the pro-
andStoring cess works almost as well with a broom
Threshing means separating the grain handle, plastic baseball bat, or other such
from the stalks. Winnowing is a technique stick (and removes the danger of concuss-
for separating the chaff (bits of stalk and ing yourself with a badly aimed flail strike).
other debris) from the grain. Threshing Lay the sheaves on a dropcloth or bed sheet
requires muscle. Winnowing requires on a garage floor or asphalt driveway. Aim
finesse. Both require patience. The two your threshing implement at the seed-
simplest methods by which the home gar- heads and whack away. Each sheaf should
dener can thresh their barley are flailing release a cup or two of barley.
and bucketing. Flailing is traditionally Bucketing requires only a clean 5-gallon
accomplished with a two-piece, wooden bucket or garbage can. In this version of
Traditional threshing involves a good deal of manual labor.

threshing, handfuls of harvested barley are cess, other grains will work with the fol-
held head-side down and beaten against the lowing method.
inside of the container. This method can The good news is that, while it can be
take less time than flailing, but results in tricky, there are just a few steps to malt-
more chaff mixed with the grain, which will ing grains (and if you are an experienced
take more time in winnowing. gardener, you probably already know how
Winnowing uses wind, whether pro- to germinate seeds). The best time to malt
vided solely by nature or assisted by a fan or barley is from late fall to winterdepend-
blow dryer. In winnowing, the grain is sim- ing on your basement temperatureand
ply poured slowly back and forth between when you have approximately one week
two containers. The heavier grain will fall to complete the process. You need a room
into the receiving bucket while the wind that you can keep at 50F (10C) or cooler.
blows away the chaff. Winnowing wont The cool temperatures keep the grain from
completely clean the grain; youll need to growing a green shoot. The same tempera-
pick out any debris heavier than chaff. tures also prevent the grain from growing
The easiest, most sure-fire way to store mold, fungi, and mildew.
grain is in resealable bags in the freezer.
Barley will maintain its quality for a year
or more when frozen. In lieu of freezing, You will need:
barley can be kept in airtight containers Two clean 5-gallon plastic buckets, at
at a constant temperature of 60 degrees least one with a lid
Fahrenheit or cooler in a dry, dark place One sieve bucket (a 5-gallon plastic
such as a cellar. It can be kept this way for bucket with 18 -inch holes drilled into
up to six months if the grains are put away the bottom for drainage)
absolutely dry. Any moisture in dry-stored Thermometer
barley will result in rancid seed and a quick Scale that can weigh up to 20 pounds
ticket to the compost heap. Aquarium pump, tubing, and air stone
as well as enough tubing to connect
MALTING the air stone at the bottom of a 5-gallon
Why would anyone want to go through the bucket to the pump sitting outside the
complicated home-malting process? For bucket
the same reasons you grow the ingredients Food dehydrator (recommended) or oven
and brew your own beer, of course: qual- A basement or other dark space that
ity, sustainability, and your love of experi- stays at 50F (10C) or cooler
mentation! Barley is the best grain to start Baking sheets for oven or a food
with, though with a few tweaks to the pro- dehydrator

How to Malt know your grains seem like your babies
1. Clean the Grain youve nurtured them up to this point.
Weigh your barley for its dry weight before Nevertheless, you can put these babies on
you clean it. This is an important first step a strict schedule that doesnt have you wak-
so you will know when your grain is fully ing up in the middle of the night for a water
dry after steeping. Pour the grain into a change or drain.
5-gallon bucket and fill with water. Stir Continue draining and changing the
the grain, and then let it sink to the bot- water every eight hours for the next seven-
tom. The chaff, small bits of stems, and ty-two hours. Keep checking the grain for
weed seeds will float to the top. Scoop out readiness to germinate. At the end of the
the floating debris. Stir again, and allow steeping process, your grain will be plump
any debris to float while the barley sinks. and swollen. The tips of the barley grain
Continue until you are satisfied that your show a whitish bulge from their emerging
grain is free of debris. Empty the cleaned roots. Alternatively, you can use an aquar-
barley into your sieve bucket and allow the ium pump with an air stone for aerating the
water to drain completely. water during the steep. With aeration, you
can leave the grain soaking in the water
2. Steep and only need to drain and change the
The process of steeping barley takes sev- water every twenty-four hours.
enty-two hours. Place your cleaned grain
in the bottom of one of your 5-gallon buck-
ets and cover with a gallon of cool water 3. Germinate
at 50F (10C) or enough water to stand You are now entering the shady side of the
2 inches above the grain while steeping. process, which requires a dark room with the
Allow this to stand for two hours. Pour the temperature set close to 50F (10C) during
water and grain into the sieve bucket again germination. This is importanta dark,
and let the water drain completely. cool room prevents the grain from growing a
Steep your grain for eight hours, then green shoot, which is great for growing more
drain and let it sit for eight hours without plants but destroys your malt.
water. Soak again for another eight hours, Here is where youll be grateful you
then check if the grain is plump, swollen, invested in a pump and air stone. The air
and showing white bulges. Timing is every- stone oxygenates the water below the sieve
thing, so choose your eight-hour intervals bucket full of germinating grain, which
for a time when you will be awake. We means you wont have to turn the grain.
54 | CHAPTER 2

The aerated water below the germinating the grain starches turn into fermentable
grain keeps the area free of carbon diox- sugars. This is the easiest step in the pro-
ide buildup, which can smother the grain. cess and takes one to three days to com-
Aerated water also helps the grain stay plete. Simply unplug the aquarium pump
moist and prevents the germinating mass and seal the bucket with its lid.
from becoming overheated in the middle. Check the barley and turn the mass
Meticulously drain your grain as you of grain once every twenty-four hours. We
have before in your sieve bucket. Pour a gal- dont want the carbon dioxide to kill the
lon of fresh water into the bottom of your malt, just to stop the growth. When the
other bucket and slip the air stone at the growth is stopped, its time for the next step.
end of the tubing into the water. Connect
the tubing to an aquarium pump sitting 5. Kiln
outside the bucket. Place your sieve bucket Drying the malt is called kilning. This is
inside the bucket with water. Double-check the step where you remove the moisture
that you havent squashed the tubing to the you added during the process. You can
air stone and reduced the air flow. The sieve use an oven or a food hydrator to kiln
bucket with barley should be above the your malt, though since kilning requires
water level so that the grain does not come low temperatures and a long time, an
in contact with the water. inexpensive food dehydrator is the more
Now wait. After approximately three practical option.
days, rootlets will appear, and a shoot called First, spread your grain out on bak-
an acrospire will bulge from the husk. When ing sheets. Then place the sheets in your
the acrospires grow 23 to the length of the dehydrator or oven and set it at, or close
barley, its time to move on to the next step. to, its lowest settingyou want a tempera-
ture between 90 to 125F (31 to 50C). If
4. Couch you are using your oven, keep the oven
Remember how we didnt want carbon door partly open for air circulation during
dioxide to build up around the germinat- the kilning, and work with a partner to
ing grains so as not to smother the seeds? make sure it remains attended overnight.
Couching the malt means the carbon diox- Most malt will require twenty-four to for-
ide becomes our friend. We stop the acro- ty-eight hours to reach the desired mois-
spires in its tracks by denying the malt ture content. You will know your malt is
much-needed oxygen for growth. This is dried properly when it weighs the same
where the process becomes interesting as when you weighed the grain before you

began the malting process. The easiest To toast the malt, transfer the malt to
way to check on your grain would be to your oven. Toasting the malt at 275F for
remove 1 4 or 1 8 the batch and weigh it. an hour should create light crystal malt.
At this point, the barley will still be pale. For medium crystal malt, toast at a higher
Since youre working with a small amount temperature of 350F for twenty to thirty
typically less than you would need for a full minutes. For dark crystal malt, keep the
batch of all-grain beeryou may want to heat at 350F, but toast it longer than a
go a step further and create a light or dark half hour. You may need to stir the malt
crystal malt. Either way, take a break, and partway through to ensure even toasting.
transfer the barley to colanders to shake off Also, keep a very close eye on the malt as
any rootlets that are still attached. it begins to darken.

Wheat and Spelt
BOTANICAL NAME: Triticum aestivum per 1,000 square feet. Seed can be
(wheat); Triticum aestivum subsp. scattered by hand or by a broadcast
Spelta (spelt) seeder; rake into the top 12 inches.
PLANT TYPE: annual grass Keep soil moist during germination.
USDA ZONES : 4-8 SPACING: Scatter seed across a fallow
HEIGHT: 23 feet bed,or sow in the rows with twenty
SOIL: well-drained, fertile loam twenty-five seeds per foot.
LIGHT: full sun MONTHS TO BEARING: four, once spring
WATER: moist soil during germination, growth begins
drier as the crop reaches harvest. Too PRUNING: none
much water can cause wheat to fall HARVEST: Reap when wheat is dry. Cut,
over. For wheat, water two to three bundle, and shock (stack upright in
times during a dry summer. For spelt, bundles) to dry.
water only during germination. NOTES: Spelt is an ancient species of
GROWTH HABIT: grassy wheat. Wheat and spelt do best with
PROPAGATE BY: seed. Some varieties a cool, moist growing season followed
are spring planted and some are by warm, dry weather for ripening.
fall planted. Use 4 pounds of seed BEST USED IN: beer
After you plant the seeds, cover the stems, or using scythe or sickle. Pruning
crop with a frost cloth to keep the birds the grain heads is time consuming, but
from gobbling up your seeds. you just have to prune and toss the wheat
heads into a basket. If you use a scythe,
Testing Wheat For Readiness adding a cradle to the tool makes it a lot
When the grains start to bend down, its easier when it gathers the grain as you cut.
time to test for readiness. The only equip- Otherwise you have to spend a lot of time
ment you need for this is your mouth. Pop picking up the wheat arranging it for bind-
the grain into your mouth and give it a ing into sheaths. With this method, you
chew. If it feels soft, its not time. Keep test- will want to put your handfuls of cut wheat
ing daily until you bite down and the grain pointing in the same direction.
crunches. Time to harvest! Bundle sheaves by taking a handful of
Harvesting a small plot of wheat can wheat and binding it together with twine,
be as simple a pruning the heads off of the then place them in a dry place to cure, pro-

tected from animal marauders. The grain needs no fertilizer and gives a better yield
is cured when it shatters easily. than wheat on poor soil. If you live in the
Thresh the grain to separate the chaff right zone, simply plant it in early spring
from the grain by beating each sheave on freshly-raked dry soil, water it well, and
inside a large metal container, such as a keep it free of weeds afterward. Toward the
clean trash can. To winnow the wheat, you end of summer, your spelt will be ready
can either pick a breezy day or set up a fan. for harvest. You can then harvest, thresh,
Pour small batches of wheat from one con- and winnow as you would for barley. Keep
tainer to another, letting the wind or fan it cool and dry until youre ready to malt it.
blow the chaff away. Repeat as necessary Spelt can also be malted as easily as
until the chaff is removed. barley. Since wheat is difficult to malt and
Spelt is an increasingly popular grain, not recommended for the homebrewer,
and some brewers have started experi- spelt is an alternative and has a nuttier
menting with it as well. It has a distinc- taste than its newer prodigy. Like wheat,
tive nutty flavor. Like wheat, you can grow you can grow two crops a year. However,
two crops of spelt per year. Even better, spelt needs no fertilizer and can give a bet-
spelt generally requires very littleit often ter yield on poorer soil. The crop needs lit-
Lupulin
B itter, resinous lupulin is natures way of encouraging passing herbivores to

spit out the hops cone and go find a nice carrot. But, as with the pepper
plants mouth-burning capsaicin, the defense backfired. Humans found virtue in
the seemingly inedible. Although lupulin may not have kept the hops flowers on
the plant, it was wildly successful in propagating the species. Under the patron-
age of humans, hops have been widely hybridized, nurtured, and spread around
the globe. Pretty smart for a plant.
58 | CHAPTER 2

tle care other than planting in early spring and rinse with cold water and drain again.
on freshly raked dry soil and watering it Germinate the grain in a sieve bucket and
in, and keeping it weed-free afterwards. turn it as you would for barley to keep the
Towards the end of summer, spelt is ready grain from molding. Rinse and drain with
for harvest. Harvest, thresh, and winnow cool water every eight hours until the spelt
as you would with barley. Keep the grain germinates in two or more days. Kiln the
cool and dry until you are ready to use it. spelt the same way you would barley, when
Malting spelt is done similarly to bar- the acrospiresor initial sprout arising
ley. Let 5 pounds of spelt soak in a 5-gal- from the germinating seedis the same
lon bucket of water for twelve hours. Drain length as the grain.
Hops for Decoration
D ried hops cones are as decorative as they are useful. If you can spare a few
from the brewing tank, use hops cones to decorate the table or as part of
an arrangement to celebrate Oktoberfest. Or put them in the spotlight of an
even more important occasion with hops corsages and boutonnieres. The pre-
served cones are fragile, but flexible and very aromatic. To avoid the chance of
clothes-staining lupulin, dry the cones before they are fully ripe. If the cones wont
be used immediately, store them in a resealable plastic bag in the refrigerator. As
opposed to hops to be used for brewing, pack these hops lightly in the bags to
preserve their shape. Hops bines can also be used for decoration. Each year in
late summer, fresh and dried bines are draped on beams and bars across England
in hops-producing regions. To make your own dried bine garlandcomplete
with conesplace cut bines in a dark, warm place for several weeks. It is helpful
but not necessary to provide them good air circulation with an electric fan.

CHAPTER 3
Other Beer Ingredients

Brewing Herbs and Fermentables

O
ne of the many benefits of brewing your own beer is that you can
make much more unique recipes than most commercial breweries.
Jalepeo beer? Go for it. Cucumber lager? Why not? Gruit ale? Sign me
up. Kale ale? Lets not go crazy. Still, for a passionate brewer, beer can be
so much more than hops and barley. Herbs, fruits, seeds, vegetables, and treeswhether
grown or gatheredadd entirely new dimensions to homebrew.
Ancient brewmasters knew this well. Gruit has many variations and inter-
For much of its estimated 12,000-year pretations, as the term describes any beer
historyever since humans began to col- that uses a combination of herb ingre-
lect and soak cereal cropsbeer was made dients for bittering and flavoring beer.
from a wide selection of botanical ingredi- Historically, these recipes were often
ents. The recipes seem to have been limited closely guarded secrets, but common
only by season, region, and blatant toxic- herbs included sweet gale (Myrica gale),
ity. In this chapter, youll find everything marsh rosemary (Rhododendron tomento-
from the classic brewing herbs to citrus sum), heather (Calluna vulgaris), ground
fruits, many of which can easily be grown ivy (Glechoma hederacea), horehound
out back or on the balcony. (Marrubium vulgare), yarrow (Achillea mille-
folium), juniper (Juniperus), or lavender
GETTING INTO GRUIT (Lavandula) in a variety of ways.
Before hops became part of the standard The literature of those times spoke
ingredients list for brewing beer, gruit (also about the extreme inebriating qualities
spelled grut or gruyt) was a common style of when these herbs fermented. Todays cau-
ale. The word may sound strange, but like tions include watching the amount you
many brewing terms it actually originated drink, as some of these ingredients make
in Germany: Gruitbier translates roughly to the beer more intoxicating. If you dont
herb beer and is pronounced groot beer. want to be an excited, wide-awake drunk
OTHER BEER INGREDIENTS | 61

easy does it. Some gruit beers can excite Many herbs and some other plants can be
you as they inebriate you (whereas hops poisonous and others can act as an aborti-
behave more like a sedative). facient (an abortive agent). If you are preg-
Since this book is primarily about gar- nant, you probably arent consuming beer
dening, were only recommending general to begin with, but if you do have the occa-
quantities when it comes to brewing for the sional sip, make it a non-herbal variety.
herbs in this chapter. In other words, were
the gardening experts, not the brewing Gruit Plants
experts! When in doubt, use even less than If making medieval-style beer intrigues
the ballpark amount. And if the initial fla- you enough to want to grow and brew an
vor is still too sharp, letting the beer age herb or three, the good news is that most
by waiting a few months after bottling will of them grow with ease in a wide variety
help mellow the flavor. For specific recipes of gardens. Provided there is enough sun-
and usage amounts, we recommend read- shine on the space, even an apartment
ing a complementary book, such as Sacred balcony garden using large pots can grow
Herbal and Healing Beers. many of the herbs you need to brew a batch
Warning: Always research your spe- of Gruitbier.
cific plants and recipes before brewing.
Yarrow
Yarrow is the most widely used medicinal
herb species from Europe, and the plant
has naturalized in the northern temperate
regions around the globe. So perhaps its
not surprising that it also ended up as an
ingredient in ales! Historically speaking,
the herb has a long association with Homo
sapiens, and our distant and extinct rela-
tives. A story about yarrow pollen found in
60,000-year-old Neanderthal burial caves
makes for an interesting topic of conversa-
tion while sitting around a backyard fire
with friends sipping a brew made from this
herb. Its botanical name, Achillea, refers
to a 3,000-year-old story from the Trojan
War, in which Achilles used yarrow on
wounds to stop the bleeding.

Yarrow
BOTANICAL NAME: Achillea millefolium
PLANT TYPE: perennial herb
USDA ZONES: 310
HEIGHT: 23 feet
SOIL: well-drained to moist; tolerates
poor, dry soil
LIGHT: full sun
WATER: low to moderate
GROWTH HABIT: clumps spread 1836
inches by underground runners.
PROPAGATE BY: division
SPACING: 24 feet
YEARS TO BEARING: one year
PRUNING: Cut old stems to ground
during dormant season. After a
few growing seasons, yarrow needs
rejuvenating. By the third year, the
herb becomes a thick mat of leaves
with reduced flowering. Divide and
replant, or smother the old plot with
a layer of four sheets or more of
newspaper, covered in thick mulch.
A few plants left on the edge will take
over with fresh, new growth and lots
of flowers. when possible. To dry, cut the stems
HARVEST: The first of two to three and flowers in the morning, tie the
harvests is taken when the leaves stems together, and hang upside
and flowers first show in late spring. down in a well-ventilated, dark, dry
Pick flowers and only healthy green space.
leaves. After the first and second NOTES: Choose a white-flowered strain
harvests, cut the yarrow all the way for beer. Yarrow can be invasive
down to encourage new growth. After in the garden. Good for container
the third harvest, let the herb grow. culture.
Use the flowers and leaves fresh BEST USED IN: gruit beer

Brewers frequently used the highly After a few growing seasons, yarrow
aromatic flowers and leaves of the common will need rejuvenating. The herb will con-
yarrow plant (Achillea millefolium) as a sub- tinue to live and grow, but it settles in with
stitute for hops to give beer a satisfying flo- a thick mat of leaves and doesnt flower as
ral and herbal quality. prolifically as it does when invading new
Linnaeus, the father of botany, orig- land. You can smother an old plot of yarrow
inally gave yarrow the name Galentara, by covering with a thick layer of newspa-
which meant causing madness, perhaps per, covered in thick mulch. Leave a few
in reference to its role in alcoholic beverages. plants on the edge and let it invade a new
Youll find the herb grows with ease area or divide the plants and start over in
in the garden; actually, it grows with wild another plot. You can also alternate where
abandon. For a brewers first foray into you allow it to invade, so it is always on the
grow-your-own, this would be a great move conquering new ground and happily
starter plant. However, choose a white flowering in the process.
flowering strain for your beer and leave the The first harvest of the leaves and flow-
colorful flowering strains for the ornamen- ers begins when the flowers first start to
tal garden. Yarrow can be grown in pots show in late spring to early summer. Adjust
or in the ground, as the herb can handle a the timing of your harvest accordingly to
variety of growing conditions. Wet or dry, accommodate your climate and weather
shade or sun, open or deep woods, mead- patterns. You can usually get two to three
ows, prairies, or your lawn, youll find yar- harvests in a growing season. When har-
row is a plant that adapts. However, the vesting leaves, choose only those that are
optimum conditions for harvesting are full fresh and green; discard any shaded out
sun and moist, fertile, well-drained soil. yellow to black leaves underneath. After
The plant likes to romp beyond its bounds, the first and second harvests, cut the yar-
so either grow the herb in a container or row all the way down to encourage new
somewhere between a foundation and a green growth. After the third harvest, let
sidewalk. In two years, for example, yar- the herb grow on its merry way.
row spaced four feet apart will be one solid Time your brew schedule with the har-
mass of plant! Although it would be a diffi- vest of the flowers and leaves to use them
cult task to harvest each plant separately, fresh. For later use, cut the stems and flow-
it would be interesting to plant a mint and ers in the morning; tie the stems together
yarrow opposite each other in one bed and and hang upside down in a well-ventilated,
let them duke it out to see which one comes dark, dry space; and let them dry at tem-
out a winner. Both are invasive plants, so peratures that dont exceed 95F. Store
just plant with caution and stand back! your dried herbs in airtight containers.
64 | CHAPTER 3

Because of yarrows antiseptic, anti- Europe, Asia, and North America. It may not
microbial, and antibacterial properties, it look much like the rosemary you know, but
acts as a preservative in alesmuch like youll find out why it has rosemary in its
hops. The strong, astringent-tasting flow- name when you bruise the aromatic leaves
ers or leaves should be used sparingly in and get a whiff of its potent rosemary-like
the brewing process or the plant will over- scent! Most rhododendrons have large
power the beer. One ounce of dried yarrow leaves, but this shrubs foliage looks nee-
or up to two ounces of fresh flower tops is dle-like (also similar to the real rosemary
a good starting point, or start with some herb). Marsh rosemary shrubs (also known
tried and true recipes before you venture as wild rosemary, marsh tea, and crys-
out with your own creative concoctions. tal tea) have long been used for medicinal
purposes and are thought to have narcotic
Marsh Rosemary properties that make beer more intoxicat-
A beautiful member of the heath family, ing. Because the plant contains the toxin
marsh rosemary can be found growing Ledel, use caution with this plant and do
wild in swamps and other wet climates in not heat the leaves in a closed container.
Marsh Rosemary (WildRosemary)

BOTANICAL NAME: Rhododendron HARVEST: At the time of flowering,
tomentosum harvest only new leaves growing
PLANT TYPE: evergreen dwarf shrub on new stems without bark. Dry
USDA ZONES: 26 the leaves using a drying rack in a
HEIGHT: 14 feet ventilatedarea.
SOIL: peaty, boggy NOTES: This is a plant with a strong,
LIGHT: full sun to part shade resin-like aroma. A member of the
WATER: regular heath family, marsh rosemary is
GROWTH HABIT: low-growing, shrubby thought to have narcotic properties
PROPAGATE BY: difficult to propagate that make beer more intoxicating.
SPACING: 2436 inches Although the plant contains toxic sub-
YEARS TO BEARING: two years to harvest stances, it has long been used to flavor
PRUNING: Pinch prune to keep beer, instead of or along with hops.
desiredshape. BEST USED IN: gruit beer

Once classified as Ledum palustre, Attractive corymbs of white flowers
marsh rosemary possesses analgesic, appear from May to June. At the time of
anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antivi- flowering, harvest only the new leaves
ral, antifungal, and insecticidal potential. growing on the new stems without bark.
Sounds appetizing! Recent research shows Grow a patch of these beautiful shrubs
wild rosemary as having promising results and harvest a few leaves from each plant.
as having antidiabetic, antioxidant, and Because the plant is a painfully slow-
anticancer properties, a testament to the growing shrub, it is important not to
powerful nature of this plant. Still, as a over-harvest any individual plant.
beer ingredient, marsh rosemary provides Harvest the leaves and dry them on a
no guarantee that your beer is medicinal. drying rack in well-ventilated, dark, dry
Youll find marsh rosemary plants space, at temperatures that dont exceed
are handsome additions to a landscape 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Store your dried
and are especially useful if areas of your herbs in airtight containers.
property have boggy, wet, or peaty soils An alternative brewing ingredient
in full sun or partial to full shade. Once to the marsh rosemary is Labrador tea
planted, the slow-growing dwarf shrub will (Rhododendron groenlandicum). However,
be a long-term resident of your garden, as marsh rosemary is said to have the best
a handsome, bushy, spreading evergreen. flavoring of the two. Use up to ounce
If you dont have a wet, boggy area, keep dried marsh rosemary to start with
the plant well irrigated. Supplement with when mixed with other herbs or find spe-
a deep watering of about an inch of water cific gruitbier recipes that call for this
each week during the growing season if ingredient.
nature doesnt provide it.
The plant dislikes lime, which raises English Lavender
the pH level of the soil, so grow the shrub The English lavenders (Lavandula angus-
away from areas such as lawns if you tifolia) are used for complex bitterness in
sweeten your soil to a higher pH level. beer, much like heathers (Calluna vulgaris).
Because the plant grows better in a symbi- Also used in gin and liqueurs, English lav-
otic relationship to some fungal organisms ender imparts a milder taste than other
in the soil, encourage microbial organ- species of lavender.
isms by not using fungicides, herbicides, In a Mediterranean-style garden, these
or insecticides near this plant. The shrub shrub-like herbs are stunning with their
grows 1 to 4 feet tall and is covered with silver-gray leaves and purple-blue flowers.
dull, dark evergreen leaves. Lavandula angustifolia Tuckers Early,
66 | CHAPTER 3

Munstead, or Hidcote are good choices to or Gros Bleu that impart a sharper fla-
grow for your brew. L. Tuckers Early is a vor. Other lavender species outside of
compact erect plant that is one of the earli- L.angustifolia or x intermedia cultivars are
est blooming English lavenders, yet other not suitable for consumption as they are
cultivars work as well. mildlytoxic.
English lavenders prefer the You dont need to fertilize lavenders.
Mediterranean-like, dry summers of the After the initial flower harvest when the
West Coast. However, if you live in an area flowers begin to fade, shear your plants
with steamy, hot summers, you can sub- back to keep them compact and tidy. Prune
stitute L. x intermedia cultivars that can above the wood where there are leaves. The
handle more humidity such as L. Grosso stems wont regrow if you cut into the wood.
Bundles of lavender ready for drying

English Lavender
BOTANICAL NAME: Lavandula
angustifolia
PLANT TYPE: shrubby evergreen herb
USDA ZONES: 58
HEIGHT: 23 feet with a spread equal to
or twice that, depending on cultivar
SOIL: well-drained, neutral pH
LIGHT: full sun
WATER: low
GROWTH HABIT: low, shrubby perennial
PROPAGATE BY: softwood cuttings in
summer
SPACING: 12 feet, depending on cultivar
YEARS TO BEARING: two years until
harvest
PRUNING: Shear down half of new
growth each year after bloom or the stems together and hang upside
following year before growth begins. down to dry in a cool, dry location.
The stems wont regrow if you cut NOTES: English lavender lends a milder
into the old wood. Lavender plants taste to beverages than other laven-
grow woody and gangly over time; der species. L. angustifolia Tuckers
replace them when they become Early, Munstead, or Hidcote are
unsightly. good choices for brewing, yet other
HARVEST: Pick the flowers when the cultivars work as well.
blooms are just opening up. Tie BEST USED IN: gruit beer, gin, liqueurs
Lavender plants will grow woody and gan- dark, dry space, and let them dry at tem-
gly over time, so many people replace their peratures that dont exceed 95 degrees
lavender plants after five years. You can Fahrenheit. Store your dried herbs in air-
propagate your plants by taking softwood tight containers.
cuttings in summer. A good starting point is about ounce
Harvest the flowers when the blooms of fresh or dried flowers added towards the
are just opening up. Tie the stems together end of the boil. You can also use the flowers
and hang upside down in a well-ventilated, as you would hops for dry hopping.
68 | CHAPTER 3

Heather the last clash with the Irish. Rather than
In the nineteenth century, Robert Louis give up the recipe for bheir Lochlannach
Stevenson wrote a poem about the Scottish (which translates as Viking beer), the
version of the legend of heather ale. Its a Viking chooses death. Still, even without
gruesome tale of a battle set in pre-Roman the recipe, Viking beer most likely was a
times, where a Pict (thought to be pre- heather-flavored mead or cider. The idea of
Celtic people) gave up his life and that of brewing a tasty, legendary ale is intrigu-
his son, rather than reveal the secret of a ing. With many heather ale recipes readily
heather ale recipe to the Scots. As many available, you wont need to threaten any-
legends go, the truth is bent, or stretched one for a secret one!
beyond repair. There was no genocide of If you wish to grow Calluna vulgaris for
the Picts; many of their descendants live in such a purpose, a dozen or more plants will
parts of Scotland today. be necessary to harvest enough for your
The Irish have their own version of the brew. It takes up to 3 quarts of fresh-picked
legend, only the last man was a Viking in flowering heather tips for a 5-gallon batch
Purple heather plants are as beautiful as they are functional in a multi-purpose garden.

age:68 (Text) 06_AC74011 Dtp:VIVIAN Page:69
Heather
BOTANICAL NAME: Calluna vulgaris PRUNING: If heather is used for brewing,
PLANT TYPE: low evergreen shrubs harvest by shearing when the flowers
USDA ZONES: 57 are fresh in late summer, which will
HEIGHT: 824 inches double as the plants yearly pruning.
SOIL: well-drained, slightly acidic Otherwise, shear lightly after flowers
LIGHT: full sun fade to keep the plant from becoming
WATER: low, but best with summer straggly. Avoid pruning into woody
irrigation barren branches, which wont pro-
GROWTH HABIT: low-growing mounds or duce new growth.
spreading mats HARVEST: Shear fresh flowers in late
PROPAGATE BY: semi-ripe cuttings in summer.
midsummer, or sow seed as soon as NOTES: At least a dozen plants are
ripe and place in a cold frame for the required to harvest enough heather
winter tips for brewing. Good rock garden
SPACING: Heathers vary widely in or raised bed plants. The heather
spread, so space the plants about as tips are added to the boil and some-
far apart as the plants mature width times the sprigs are dry-hopped in
as listed on the nursery tag. somerecipes.
YEARS TO BEARING: once plants are large BEST USED IN: gruit beer, cider
enough to provide ample tips
of beer. Fortunately, the plants are small straggly. Also, avoid pruning into woody
enough that you can easily grow many barren branches or the stem wont regrow.
of them in your garden. Some homebrew Propagate by semi-ripe cuttings in mid-
supply stores carry dried heather too, but summer or sow seed as soon as ripe and
heather is beautiful in the garden and eas- place in a cold frame for the winter.
ily harvested, so why not grow your own? It is preferable to pick the fresh flow-
Your best bet is to grow plants in full ers in late summer; however, you can dry
sun, in well-drained, slightly acidic soil. the stems by bundling and hanging them
However, heather grows well in rock gar- upside down in a cool, dry, dark place. The
dens too. The plants can tolerate dry soil, heather tips can be added to the boil. Some
but will need irrigation during a prolonged recipes also suggest dropping sprigs in
summer drought. Shear lightly after flow- beer after primary fermentation (similar to
ers fade to keep the plant from becoming dry hopping).
70 | CHAPTER 3

Sweet Gale
Sweet gale literally gets around, grow-
ing circumpolar in the northern latitudes
Sweet Gale
BOTANICAL NAME: Myrica gale
throughout the world. In North America, its PLANT TYPE: low, deciduous shrub
native haunts are throughout Canada and USDA ZONES: 29
Alaska but it is equally at home in Oregon, HEIGHT: 46 feet
SOIL: damp, peaty, acidic
Washington, the Great Lakes states, New
LIGHT: full sun to light shade
England states, and even dips down into
WATER: constant; suitable for bogs
North Carolina and Tennessee.
GROWTH HABIT: shrubby
Before hops appeared, sweet gale may
PROPAGATE BY: softwood cuttings,
have been the most prominent gruit ingre-
layering, seed
dient in Britain. Beer enthusiasts have a SPACING: 46 feet
difference of opinion on the claim that both YEARS TO BEARING: when large
sweet gale and marsh rosemary are brewed enough to give up the required
in the same historic gruit recipes since the number of leaves
shrubs grow in different regions in Europe. PRUNING: Pinch to keep dense; use
It may be that the flavoring that went into harvesting as pruning.
a regional gruit would have used the shrub HARVEST: At the time of flowering,
native to where the brew was developed, not harvest only new leaves growing
both as some claim. Considered the true on new stems. Dont over-harvest
gale, sweet gale appears to be the preferred an individual plant. Dry the
flavoring of the two as evidenced by some of leaves using a drying rack in a
the common names of the time for marsh ventilated area.
NOTES: Sweet gale is a soil-improv-
rosemaryfalse gale and pigs gale. There
ing nitrogen-fixer.
are many common names for Myrica gale
BEST USED IN: gruit beer, gale ale
such as bog myrtle, Dutch myrtle, meadow
fern, and English myrtle, yet sweet gale is
neither a myrtle nor a fern!
The shrubs are dioecious, meaning male catkins emit pollen that is carried by
they are either male or female; however, the wind to pollinate the female catkins. (If
some individuals can change from male to you have pollen allergies you wont want to
female, and back again. If you wish to prop- aggravate the problem by growing this in
agate your plants from seed, you will need your garden.)
at least one male and one female plant, and Sweet gale is a bushy, 2- to 4-foot decidu-
hope they are not fickle enough to change ous shrub. The nitrogen-fixing abilities of
to the same gender in any given year. The nodules in the sweet gales roots and its

symbiotic relationship with a fungus called To make a gale ale use ounce of dried
Frankia mean it can grow in nitrogen-poor sweet gale leaves and mix with other herbs
soil. As with marsh rosemary, do not use such as lavender and rosemary.
any fungicides near the shrubs. In its native Warning: the plant is an abortifacient;
habitat, sweet gale grows in perpetually wet if you are pregnant do not consume beer
conditions next to lakes and streams, and in made with this ingredient.
fens, bogs, and swamps. You can grow this
with the moisture-loving marsh rosemary, Ground Ivy (Glechoma hederacea)
as they require similar conditions. Since The name Glechoma comes for the Greek
both shrubs have similar flavorings, choose word glechon, which means mint-like
one if you are short on garden space. Neither plant. As with its other relatives in the
shrub can tolerate lime and prefer acidic, mint family, this running groundcover
peaty soil. comes with a warning: ground ivy loves to
Covered in glands, the glossy, blue- spread like many other mints. This species
green leaves emit a pleasing, sweet-smell- has enough common titles to name a cou-
ing, resinous fragrance. Harvest the leaves ple of litters of kittens, such as creeping
and dry them on a drying rack in well- Charlie, Lizzie-run-up-the-hedge, alehoof,
ventilated, dark, dry space; and let them herbe St. Jean, cats foot, field balm, run-
dry at temperatures that dont exceed 95 away-Robin, or Gill-over-the-ground.
degrees Fahrenheit. Store your dried herbs In spite of its well-earned reputation for
in airtight containers. being an opportunist in the lawn and gar-
ground ivy

den, the plant is worth growing as an ingre-
dient for your brews. As it creeps along the
ground, its wiry stems grow roots wherever
Ground Ivy
(CreepingCharlie)
it goes. If you dont mind the plant taking BOTANICAL NAME: Glechoma
over your garden, grow it in the ground. hederacea
However, you can keep it from taking over PLANT TYPE: low-growing, evergreen,
by growing it in a container, where it does perennial herb
USDA ZONES: 310
well. A variegated form is often sold as an
HEIGHT: under 6 inches
ornamental groundcover, or as a trailing
SOIL: well-drained
plant in hanging baskets and containers.
LIGHT: sun to shade
For brewing, we recommend sticking to the
WATER: moist to dry
species Glechoma hederacea.
GROWTH HABIT: a creeper with wiry
A bitter, aromatic herb, ground ivy was stems (stolons) that root where
the most common plant used for clarify- they touch the ground
ing and preserving beer until the sixteenth PROPAGATE BY: Dig up plants from
century when hops took over its job. Some self-rooting stems
will grow it to add to salads, cook in soups SPACING: 36 inches
and stews, or brew in mixed herbal teas. YEARS TO BEARING: As soon as the
The low-growing herb grows best in full plants produce enough leaves
to part sun in medium soil with good drain- PRUNING: Dig out and remove as
age. Space plants 5 inches apart. Harvest needed.
leaves from spring to autumn, but the best HARVEST: Harvest leaves from
harvest is in May when it is at its peak fla- spring to autumn. Use the leaves
vor. Use the leaves fresh (2 to 4 ounces) or fresh or dried. Dry them at tem-
peratures that dont exceed 95
dry (1 ounce) per dried 5 gallons. Simply tie
degrees Fahrenheit.
the stems together and hang upside down
NOTES: A variegated form is often
in a well-ventilated, dark, dry space; and
sold as an ornamental ground-
let them dry at temperatures that dont
cover or used in hanging baskets
exceed 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Store your
and containers. Can be invasive,
dried herbs in airtight containers.
especially in moist shade. To be
Warning: the plant is an abortifacient. on the safe side, grow in a pot.
If you are pregnant do not consume beer BEST USED IN: gruit beer
made with this ingredient.

Horehound common horehound, and houndsbane. In
This is an herb used in gruitbier that is Germany, the herb is called Berghopfen,
associated with magic and herbal rem- which translates to mountain hops.
edies; it is an effective expectorant in Horehound has been traced all the way back
cough medicines, for example. You could to the Egyptians who called the herb seed of
claim your horehound ale to be medici- Horus, eye of the star, and bulls blood. All
nal. However, horehound most likely loses three names sound like good ale titles!
much of its medicinal properties, such as The herbaceous perennial plant is
soothing sore throats and reducing inflam- native to Europe, Northern Africa, and Asia
mation, once you brew with it. and has naturalized in the United States
This is another plant with many com- and Canada where it was introduced. Like
mon names, the most common being hore- the dandelion, it has made itself at home in
hound (sometimes spelled hoarhound), the new world and can be found in almost
Horehound
BOTANICAL NAME: Marrubium vulgare second year,prune back the
PLANT TYPE: perennial herb plants byhalfpreferably
USDA ZONES: 49 whenharvesting.
HEIGHT: 12 feet HARVEST: Before the plants begin to
SOIL: can survive poor soil; does well in flower, harvest the leaves in the
rich soil as well morning after the dew dries. The first
LIGHT: full sun year, cut no more than one-third of
WATER: low to moderate the growth. In subsequent years, the
GROWTH HABIT: erect stems plants can be cut back to 4 inches
PROPAGATE BY: seed; division; basal from the ground. Use the leaves fresh
cuttings (3- to 4-inch long shoots or, for later use, dry them at tempera-
with some of the underground tures that dont exceed 95 degrees
stemattached) Fahrenheit. Once the leaves are dried,
SPACING: 12 inches their musky fragrance disappears.
YEARS TO BEARING: as soon as plants NOTES: can be invasive. Remove flowers
produce enough leaves to prevent self-seeding. To be safe,
PRUNING: Cut back old stems confine it to a pot.
before new growth starts. The BEST USED IN: gruit beer
74 | CHAPTER 3

every state and prov-
ince. The genus belongs
in the mint family and
bears a resemblance to
mint with its crinkled
leaves that are covered
in white hairit has
a woolly gray appear-
ance. The white flow-
ers bloom from late
spring into August and
are arranged in whorls
in the axis of a pair of
opposite leaves on the
square stems.
The plant adapts
well to poor, dry soils,
yet will thrive in good garden soil too. systems. You can start them in pots and
Plant with other herbs, or if you think the plant them in the garden in summer. The
nettle-like plant looks too weedy for your best way to propagate more plants is to
garden, plant them in an out-of-the-way divide clumps in spring and replant imme-
area. Like many members of the mint fam- diately where you want them to grow.
ily, it may be invasive. It self-seeds, so you When your plants begin to flower, har-
want to deadhead the flowers religiously, vest your herbs in the morning after the dew
not letting any seeds form. dries. As you pick, you will notice the musky
You can start your plants from seed by fragrance. Use the leaves fresh or, for later
sowing them in either spring or late sum- use, tie the stems together and hang upside
mer in pots. For late summer to fall sow- down in a well-ventilated, dark, dry space;
ing, put your pots in a protected cold frame and let them dry at temperatures that dont
over winter. Germination can be slow, so exceed 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Store your
dont give up on them. Keep the soil moist dried herbs in airtight containers. Once the
during the germination process. Take 3- to leaves are dried, the fragrance disappears.
4-inch-long basal cuttings in late spring When brewing a horehound ale or tra-
by harvesting the shoots with some of the ditional English ale with this bitter herb,
underground stem attached. Keep the soil dont use more than 2 ounces of fresh
moist while the plants establish their root leaves or 1 ounce dried per 5 gallons.

Juniper can be found in recipes for porters, stouts,
Common juniper is a low-growing, or and doppelbocks. (It was also used as one of
upright, evergreen bush native to high the ingredients in a recipe for Goat Scrotum
northern latitudes around the entire globe. Alean unfortunate but memorable title.)
Here in North America it grows in alpine Common juniper goes by other names
meadows, the plains, and as an understory such as dwarf juniper, prostrate juniper,
plant for wooded areas of native conifers mountain common juniper, old-field com-
and quaking aspen trees (Populus trem- mon juniper, and ground juniper. Some
uloides). Historically, Native Americans good selections for the garden and for brew-
used juniper medicinally as a tonic for ing include Juniperus communis var. char-
an assortment of ailments and used the lottensis, J. communis var. megistocarpa, J.
branches as a smudge to repel insects. communis var. depressa, and J. communis
They believed that the branches brought var. montana. The last two varieties rarely
good luck, protected you from disease, kept grow taller than 1 to 3 feet.
evil spirits away, and protected you from The low-growing conifer is a popu-
lightning and thunder. lar groundcover for the garden because it
The berries are still used today in pot- grows on a variety of soils including stony
pourris, but more importantly as an ingre- or sandy soils. Junipers will grow in acidic
dient for beer! (After brewing, feel free to to alkaline pH soil, but in the garden, you
toss any of your unused berries into the want maximum growth potential; it will
potpourri dish.) Both berries and boughs grow its best in a sandy-loam to loamy soil
have been used during the brewing pro- in full sun.
cess and for filtering out grains and hops J. communis is not recommended for
in the bottom of brew vessels, and juniper homes located in dangerous fire zones,

Juniper
BOTANICAL NAME: Juniperus communis YEARS TO BEARING: once plants are large
PLANT TYPE: coniferous evergreen shrub enough to harvest foliage. Cones,
USDA ZONES: 38 three years.
HEIGHT: shrubs, 113 feet; trees to 30 PRUNING: rarely needs pruning. Snip
feet back individual stems to shape.
SOIL: tolerates poor soil, but best in a When harvesting or pruning boughs,
sandy loam dont cut below the green needles or
LIGHT: full sun to shade the branch wont regrow.
WATER: dry to moist; can tolerate HARVEST: Ripe, plump berries should be
drought gathered in autumn and dried slowly
GROWTH HABIT: low-growing or in the shade to retain the oil.
uprightshrub or small columnar NOTES: Any juniper berry brew should
tree. Common juniper has many be avoided by mothers-to-be. J.com-
cultivars with a wide variety of munis is not recommended for homes
growth habits. located in dangerous fire zones
PROPAGATE BY: cuttings because its resinous foliage is highly
SPACING: dependent on cultivar flammable.
BEST USED IN: beer, gin
where fire-resistant landscapes are a neces- A small amount of potent juniper ber-
sity. The plant is highly flammable with ries goes a long way, if you dont want your
resinous foliage that burns more intensely beer to end up tasting like gin. One ounce
than many other herbaceous plants. of berries per 5 gallons added the last ten
These plants rarely need to be pruned, to fifteen minutes of the boil is a commonly
unless theyre placed where their width advised starting point.
overcomes a sidewalk. Site your plants Warning: women who are pregnant
carefully in the first place and you wont or anyone with kidney disease should not
have deal with plants outgrowing their ingest juniper berries, or anything made
space. When harvesting or pruning with them. Because gin (also called moth-
boughs, it is important not to cut below ers ruin) is flavored with juniper berries,
the green needles. Only prune where nee- it has the ability to cause miscarriage, so
dles appear along the stem, otherwise the any juniper berry brew should be avoided
branch will not regrow. by mothers-to-be.

THE CUCURBITS not producing fruit early in the season. Its
Cucumber saison, pumpkin ale, and water- because the first flowers to open are typi-
melon wheat are just some of the beers that cally the male ones. (You can tell the differ-
are possible thanks to the cucurbits family ence between the male and the female, as
of plants. the female flowers have a swollen ovary at
Melons can be problematic, but pump- their base that looks like a baby fruit.)
kins, squash, and cucumbers are not Once the female flowers open, if you
hard to grow in most climates, except for are not seeing any fruit develop you may
the shorter-season ones. The biggest com- need to channel your inner bee and do
plaint we hear about growing cucurbits is some hand pollinating. Cut a male flower
the powdery mildew they can get later in off the vine and pull off the petals. You
the season. The fungus is unruly once the will see the pollen on the stamens. Simply
weather turns cool and humid! When the touch the pollen to the female flowers
mildew sets in, the plants ripening process sticky pistil. Also, if you dont have enough
halts permanently. However, research- pollinators in your garden, you may want
ers in South America found that a foliar to learn how to attract them to your plot
spray of milk controls powdery mildew on of land. If you are spraying with pesti-
squash, cucumber, melon, and pumpkin cides, you may be killing off the beneficial
plants. Just mix a spray of one part nonfat insects who pollinate plants, keep pests at
milk to nine parts water and spray weekly bay, or both.
to reduce the disease-causing organisms
(Sphaerotheca fuliginea). Not only does the Pumpkin and Squash
spray keep the fungus in check, it fertil- When fall moves in, we love pumpkin fla-
izes the plants at the same time. This is vor in almost everything. Of course, beer
an inexpensive, organic, and easy way to is no exception! The best pumpkins grown
protect and grow healthy cucurbits. as an edible are actually squashes though.
Cucumber beetles and squash borers In fact, canned pumpkinthe kind you
can also attack the plants. The best line of might use for cooking or for brewingisnt
defense is using a row cover on the plants really pumpkin, but squash. Why they call
until they start flowering. Take the covers it pumpkin is a mystery. Perhaps canned
off at that point, or the bees wont be able squash doesnt sound as appetizing, even
to pollinate the plants. if the fruit is sweeter and purees into a
OK, enough about the problems . . . beautiful consistency for pie. Still, fresh is
on to the plants! Cucurbit vines produce always best, for baking and for brewing!
male and female flowers. Plenty of begin- Squash is not a tough vine to grow and
ner gardeners ask why their flowers are harvest, but it does take up a lot of room in
78 | CHAPTER 3

the garden. One solution is to plant a three
sisters combination in your allotted space,
which is an ingenious, ancient Native
American way to grow corn, squash, and
pole beans in the same plot. The beans are
a legume that fixes nitrogen into the soil,
while the corn stands tall and feels entitled
to steal all the nutrients. The beans wind
their way up the corn, while the pumpkins
and squash wander around at the base,
effectively covering the bare ground and
shading out the weeds. Or, you can plant
just pumpkin and just grow some vines to
cover ground. The large leaves are actually
quite handsome in a tropical looking way.
Try to give your vines full sun, although
a little bit of shade wont harm them. Give
them a lot of room to growovercrowding
them reduces fruit yield. Space hills 4 to 5
feet apart and plant four to six seeds per
hill. After the seedlings emerge, thin the
sprouts to the most vigorous plant in each
mound. Dont pull the weaker ones out; cut
them to ground level with your pruners to
prevent disturbing the roots of the chosen
one. When sowing the seeds or transplant- The amount of pumpkin or squash
ing, add one cupful of a complete organic youll use in a pumpkin beer recipe varies,
fertilizer to each hill and fertilize every two but youll want to think in pounds rather
to three weeks after that. than ounces if you want any flavor to come
Harvest your squash after the first through. If you want your beer to really
light frost when the vine wilts, and before a smack of pumpkin, there are two tips.
hard frost. When you cut the squash from First, consider using some pumpkin pie
the wilted vine, leave 2 inches of stem on spices in your beer recipe as wellwhile
the fruit. Leave the fruit out in the sun to they will mask the gourd flavor somewhat,
cure for a few days. Protect your fruit from and they also remind the drinker of pump-
a hard frost during the curing time. kin desserts when she smells or tastes

Pumpkin and Squash
BOTANICAL NAME: Cucurbita spp your squash in the sun to cure for
PLANT TYPE: vining annual vegetables a few days. To prepare for ferment-
USDA ZONES: 39 ing, cut the cucurbit in half, scoop
HEIGHT: 2 feet trailing, or 68 feet if out the seeds and pulp, and place
trellised skin-side-up on a roasting pan. Dont
SOIL: rich and well-drained, amended cover. Add inch of water and bake
with compost for approximately an hour at 325
LIGHT: full sun degrees Fahrenheit. For fermenting,
WATER: regular; at least an inch of dont overbake the squash to mush.
water a week When cooled, remove the rind.
GROWTH HABIT: trailing vines NOTES: Pumpkins and squash are
PROPAGATE BY: seed planted directly in heavy feeders. Apply fish emulsion
the ground. If the growing season every month, beginning when plants
is short, seed can be started in peat are 8 inches tall. The first flowers
pots and planted out when the soil is are male, and so will not become
warm. fruit. The best pumpkin for eating is
SPACING: 1836 inches. Plant several squash; even commercially canned
seeds in one spotor hilland thin pumpkin is actually a mix of win-
to the best seedling. ter squash. Be warned that pump-
MONTHS TO BEARING: four to five kins make a difficult brew, but the
PRUNING: none flavor of the ale is worth the effort.
HARVEST: A pumpkin or squash is ripe The best flavor comes from put-
when its skin turns the solid color ting the cooked fruit in the mash,
of its type (typically orange) and the rather than in the boil. The trade-
rind resists puncture when pressed off for good flavor is the amount of
with a thumbnail. Harvest after time it takes to run-off the wort to
the first light frost when the vine thekettle.
wilts, but before a hard frost. Leave BEST USED IN: craft beers; notably,
a 2-inch stem on the fruit. Leave pumpkin ale
80 | CHAPTER 3

the beer. The second tip is to chop up and
bake your squash on a cookie sheet before
brewing with it. Some caramelized (but
not burnt) pieces are optional but can pro-
vide additional depth of flavor. When the
fruit cools, mash well by hand or puree the
fruit in a blender. If you plan to freeze your
squash, divide it up in amounts called for
in your recipes to brew at a later date, or to
steal for home-grown pumpkin pies.
Flavor-wise, there are many excellent
cultivars to consider. The first is Rouge vif
dEtampes (cucurbita maxima). Commonly
called the Cinderella pumpkin, this plant is
actually a squash. Its orange-red skin, deep
lobes and low profile make it a favorite in
the kitchen. I always plant this old French
heirloom in my pumpkin patch. Average
weight per pumpkin is 15 pounds and gang patiently waits for in the pumpkin
yield is two pumpkins per plant. Sunshine patch every Halloween. These squashes are
Kabocha is a beautiful and delicious win- the ones that most avid growers cultivate
ter squash with space-saving, 6- to 8-foot as giants to enter into the biggest pumpkin
vines. Waltham butternut squash is a clas- contests. However, you dont want to grow
sic, culinary favorite that is an important one to its maximum size for your pumpkin
part of the pumpkin in canned pumpkin. ale. Let these vines set many pumpkins to
Any type of acorn squash will have bright, keep the size from becoming too large to
creamy flesh and a nutty-sweet flavor, move or fit in the oven come roasting time.
but a compact early such as Early Acorn Butternut or acorn squash (Cucurbita
Hybrid produces 46 large fruits that have moschata): While definitely not a pumpkin,
a chance of ripening even in short-sum- butternut and acorn squash are delicious
mer areas; they are also good for container and some of the easiest winter squashes to
culture. bring from harvest to puree. These provide
Atlantic Dill, Big Moon, or Prizewinner great flavoring for pies and have a smooth
(Cucurbita maxima): These are the most flesh, so grow some for Thanksgiving des-
likely contenders for the Great Pumpkin erts and put the rest into your favorite beer
that poor Linus van Pelt, of the Peanuts recipe.

Cucumbers cousins, cucumbers dont need the same
It appears that cucumber beer is catching amount of real estate to grow in the gar-
on. We have not tried one, but have read den, and you can grow the vine up a trel-
reports that it is a refreshing, invigorat- lis system or grow the bush types on the
ing drink. If you have an overabundance ground or in a 5-gallon container if you are
of cucumbers, this will be a fun summer short on space. If you trellis your cucum-
brew to try. ber plants, you can space them closer
This popular warm-season crop has together at 6 inches apart. Growing them
about the same cultivation requirements on the ground, you will need to space your
as pumpkins and squash. Unlike their plants 18 to 36 inches apart depending on
Cucumber
BOTANICAL NAME: Cucumis sativus PRUNING: none
PLANT TYPE: vining annual vegetable HARVEST: Harvest slicing cucumbers
USDA ZONES: 411 when they about 6 to 8 inches, pick-
HEIGHT: 2 feet trailing, or can be trel- lers at 4 to 6 inches. Pick when they
lised to 68 feet are uniformly green and before they
SOIL: rich and well-drained, amended begin to yellow. Keep the fruit picked
with compost or the vines will stop producing.
LIGHT: full sun NOTES: Bush-type cucumbers can be
WATER: regular. Apply a gallon per week grown in containers. Cucumbers are
once the fruit sets. heavy feeders. Apply fish emulsion
GROWTH HABIT: trailing vines every month, beginning when plants
PROPAGATE BY: seed. Sow seed in the are 8 inches tall. Add cucumber to
ground two weeks after the average beer as a second-
date of last frost. To get an earlier ary to help retain
start, seed indoors about three the fresh, crisp
weeks before you will transplant flavor. Put it in
them in the ground. They like bottom sooner and you
heat from a heat mat. lose the flavor.
SPACING: 1836 inches. Plant several BEST USED IN: Craft
seeds in one spot and thin to the beers
best seedling.
MONTHS TO BEARING: two to three
82 | CHAPTER 3

the variety. The seed packet will tell you
the best spacing for a particular variety.
The day before sowing cucumber seeds,
presoak the seeds in water overnight. Sow
two to three seeds per hill. When they ger-
minate choose the best seedling and prune
or pinch out (dont pull) the other plants to
the ground. Cucumbers grow quickly and
are heavy feeders, so throw in a handful
of a complete organic fertilizer at planting
time and give them monthly feedings after
they sprout. Plants grown in containers
will need a weekly feeding. Keep the plants
consistently watered or you will end up
with hollow, bitter fruit. When hot weather
arrives, containers can dry out quickly
and you may need to water daily. If you
grow your vines vertically, keep training
them up their trellis.
You might want to try the somewhat
sweeter tasting lemon cucumber as an
alternative to the green one for your beer. Lemon cucumber
Either way, cucumber is an ingredient you
will want to add after primary fermenta-
tion, as the flavor is quite delicate. can grow them a lot more easily. Like other
cucurbits, they are heavy feeders and need
Melons room to grow, and youll want to fertilize
We confess: We have melon envy. The mild them monthly for best results.
climate in the Pacific Northwest makes it For the amount of space they need,
difficult to grow melons without jumping melons have slow-growing vines and yields
through a lot of hoops (or under them when are not very high. You must be a serious
growing the plants in a hoop house). There gardener and brewer to want to grow mel-
are avid gardeners in the region though ons to put in your brew. However, you will
that love the challenge and grow melons earn the bragging rights for this crop.
every year, with a variety of results. If you Keep your melon patch weeded so the
live in a warmer part of the country, you vines wont have to compete for nutrients.

Melon
BOTANICAL NAME: Cucumis melo (musk- to sprawl. Sow several seeds per
melon varieties); Citrullus lanatus spot and thin to the best 2 to 3
(watermelon) seedlings.
PLANT TYPE: vining annual vegetable MONTHS TO BEARING: three
USDA ZONES: 411 PRUNING: none
HEIGHT: 1 to 2 feet trailing. Trellised HARVEST: For muskmelons, hold the
muskmelons can reach 6 to 8 feet. stem in one hand, and give the fruit
SOIL: rich and well-drained, amended a twist with your other hand. When
with compost the melon is ripe, it slips off the stem
LIGHT: full sun, three months of heat easily. If the melon doesnt slip off,
WATER: consistent; cut back on water as leave it for a few more days and try
the fruit begins to ripen. Use soaker again. For watermelon, pick when
hoses or drip irrigation to keep water the curly tendril closest to the fruit
off the leaves turns brown.
GROWTH HABIT: trailing vines NOTES: Muskmelons can be trellised.
PROPAGATE BY: seed. Plant when the Amend the planting area with
ground temperature is above 70F. 4 to6 inches of compost or
Presoak seed to increase germina- well-rottedmanure. Like other
tion. Plant seeds two weeks after cucurbits they are heavy feeders
average last frost date. Or transplant and need room to grow. Apply fish
from starts sown six weeks earlier in emulsion every month, beginning
peat pots and grown in a greenhouse when plants are 8 inches tall.
or under lights. Dont disturb the Choose watermelon varieties that
roots at planting out. are fusarium and bacterial wilt
SPACING: 1 foot apart if grown on a resistant.
trellis, or 3 to 4 feet apart if allowed BEST USED IN: craft beers
Consistent watering is a must for best fla- from becoming too soggy, which in turn
vor. You want your soil to be humus-rich, will give you better tasting melons.
because when the melons begin to ripen Muskmelons (cantaloupe being one of
you will need to cut back on the amount of them) can be trellised if you are short on
water you add to the soil. The humus in the space. Presoak your seeds to aid in ger-
soil retains moisture while keeping the soil minating. The seeds will not germinate
84 | CHAPTER 3

if soil temperatures are below 65 degrees about 6 feet apart and sow four to six
Fahrenheit. You can prewarm the soil by seeds per hill. Thin seedlings down to the
putting a plastic tunnel over it. Plant seeds healthiest three. You can also grow in rows
two weeks after the average last frost date with one plant every 2 to 4 feet. Cover with
for your area in hills 1 foot apart if you grow plastic tunnels to keep the soil warm if the
them vertically, or plant them 3 to 4 feet weather is still on the cool side, or night-
apart and let them wander around on the time temperatures are dipping down below
ground. Alternatively, you can transplant 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
starts that were sown six weeks earlier and It is important to give your watermelon
grown in a greenhouse or under lights. The plants regular deep watering the first
starts resent transplanting so plant them month. After the vine starts to set fruit,
carefully with little disturbance of their cut back on watering so as not to dilute the
roots. Cover with a plastic tunnel or cage fruit sugars and make the fruit less fla-
to aid in keeping the soil warm. To harvest vorful. You can tell the watermelon is ripe
your melons, hold the stem in one hand, when the curly tendril closest to the fruit
and give the fruit a twist with your other turns brown.
hand. When the melon is ripe, it slips off
the stem easily. If the melon doesnt slip off,
leave it for a few more days and try again.
Watermelon is another beer-friendly
melon. But if you can get your watermelon
harvest into your beer before it is eaten,
you have more willpower than we do! Two
incurable diseases that are prevalent in
watermelon are fusarium and bacterial
wilt, so choose disease-resistant variet-
ies. As with other summer melons, water-
melons need warm soil to germinate and
warm weather to ripen. Plant seeds two
weeks after the average last frost date for
your area. Alternatively, you can trans-
plant starts that were sown six weeks ear-
lier and grown in a greenhouse or under
lights. The starts resent transplanting
so plant them carefully with little distur-
bance of their roots. Space planting hills

A FEW FINAL IDEAS On the few pages that follow, well run
Youve seen the range of plants that made through the last few ingredients for spe-
gruit ale popular for centuries, thought cialty beers on our listsconsider them a
about watermelons, and maybe even few final ideas for your creative homebrew
planted your squash or cucumber. What garden.
else could there possibly be for your beer?
Well, there are plenty of herbs, for one. Spruce
However, since we have most of these con- Spruce needle beer is a spring tradition that
veniently gathered in the liqueur chapter dates back centuries, mainly because mak-
(see page 177), simply flip over there to ing the beer with fresh spring needles brings
learn more about the herb of your choice. a refreshing, unsweetened cola-like taste to
Spruce
BOTANICAL NAME: Picea species HARVEST: You dont need to harvest
PLANT TYPE: coniferous evergreen trees many needles for the brew, but keep
USDA ZONES: 28 depending on species; in mind to always use the freshest
prefer cool, mild summers new needles.
HEIGHT: 4150 feet depending on NOTES: Spruces are low-maintenance
species and type. Dwarf varieties landscape plants. They do not
available, which can be grown in a perform well in areas of high
container on the deck or as part of heat and humidity. Fresh, young,
the landscape. springneedles are used to give
SOIL: moderately moist, sandy, acidic, beera refreshing, unsweetened
well-drained soil colaflavor. Mature needles are
LIGHT: full sun to part shade not used because they taste
WATER: low to moderate like turpentine. Spruce essence
GROWTH HABIT: pyramidal to conical, is available in brew shops, but
dwarf varieties available doesntcompare to the taste of fresh
PROPAGATE BY: cuttings, grafting needles. Many species of spruce can
SPACING: dependent on cultivar be used for flavoring.
YEARS TO BEARING: one to two years BEST USED IN: beer
PRUNING: little needed; light pinching or
shearing to maintain tidy shape
86 | CHAPTER 3

beer. (If you harvest the needles later in the
season, your beer will smell more as though
its made for thinning paints!)
Kumdis Island Spruce Beer recipe
calls for the needles from the tallest tree
of the speciesSitka spruce (Picea sitchen-
sis). Kumdis Island, where the recipe tra-
ditionally comes from, is in the Charlotte
Islands on the west coast of Canada. The
recipe utilizes the needles from the indi-
genous spruces that grow into giants in the
islands mild maritime climate.
The new shoots of many spruces are a
great source of vitamin C, which helps sta-
bilize the finished beer as well. Historically, Picea pungens Fat Albert is worth growing
the British Royal Navy added the needles for the name alone but is also an outstand-
to their ship-brewed beer to treat scurvy. ing garden specimen. Choose the best-rec-
Harvesting fresh needles from the wild ommended variety for the region you live
can mean climbing towering trees, but it in. The trees will reward you as a beautiful
can also be as simple as hunting down specimen in your landscape and provide
young trees. In fact, if youre looking for a some fresh needles for your springbrew.
small tree to plant, your yard can easily Most recipes use a very small quan-
accommodate a dwarf version of a recom- tity of needlesnot more than 4 or 5
mended spruce in a container on the deck, ounces. Even though you dont need to
or as part of the landscapeand you can harvest many needles for the brew, keep
use the first growth of fresh, new needles. in mind to always use the freshest new
If you live in an area where you can ones. Even a small amount of old spruce
grow a spruce, they are wonderful coni- can ruin a beer. Also, if youve ever bought
fer trees for the home landscape. For the spruce essence in homebrew shops, keep
Pacific Northwest, a dwarf spruce such as in mind that fresh spruce is very differ-
Sitka spruce (Picea Papoose) would be the ent. While the bottled stuff can come off
best choice. The conical Alberta spruce like a pine-cleaning product, fresh spruce
(Picea glauca Conica) or blue spruce (Picea in small amounts can make a light bodied
pungens) would be better suited for many beer with a cola-like tasteand it could
colder regions. The Colorado blue spruce, become a new favorite spring brew.

Citrus
Living in the Northwest, we are citrus chal-
lenged, as are many parts of the rest of the
country. Unless you are living in Arizona,
Florida, and parts of Californiaor equally
warm areas of your continent where you
can grow them in the groundgrowing
your citrus in a container will be necessary.
To grow citrus successfully in pots,
choose varieties grafted onto dwarf root- Lemon flowers
stock, which are suitable for confinement
in a container. Some cultivars will do well
growing outside in cold climates when soil type, and so on. In warm zones where
brought into a greenhouse for the colder you can grow your trees and shrubs in the
months. Other varieties can transition to ground, check with your County Extension
houseplant status when the weather turns agent to find out the best varieties suit-
cold outside. Even a balcony garden can able for your county. Another source for
accommodate a dwarf citrus tree as long as information on good cultivars for the home
it is growing in full sun. garden is a local citrus garden club. Some
As in any other gardening endeavor, clubs may even have local plant sales or
choose the best varieties for your specific exhibits of the best cultivars to grow. The
region to increase your chances of success. big box stores may sell citrus, but the
Often a plant does not grow well because plants may be more suitable for another
it was the wrong variety for the climate, region and not yours, so buy your stock
plants from reputable, locally-owned gar-
den nurseries that choose the best vari-
eties for your area. Invest in good quality
stock that will give you fruit for many years
to come.
Most brewers use just the peels of the
fruit as an ingredient, so even if you dont
get a great crop of fruit, the peels may still
be usable. For use in liqueurs and cock-
tails, it is more critical to grow good fruit
for fresh, fragrant garnishes.
Left: Meyer lemon fruit

| Right: A small orange plant fits nicely on a balcony

Citrus
BOTANICAL NAME: Citrus limon (lemon), formidable thorns; protect yourself
C. latifolia and C. aurantifolia (lime), with gloves and goggles.
C. sinensis (orange), C. paradis HARVEST: Oranges, lemons, and grape-
(grapefruit) fruit should all be completely free of
PLANT TYPE: broadleaf evergreen trees green coloration. These fruit dont
USDA ZONES: 911 in the ground. ripen off the tree. Limes dont change
Farther north in a container with a color, so judge ripeness by size and
greenhouse or sunroom. season.
HEIGHT: to 50 feet depending on variety; NOTES: Where you live determines
dwarf 310 feet which types and varieties of citrus
SOIL: Citrus is adaptable to a range of you can grow. Even gardeners out
soil types. Does poorly in salty soil. of citrus-friendly climates can grow
LIGHT: full sun. The bark of citrus is containerized Improved Meyer lem-
thin and must be protected from ons, bringing them into the house or
intense sun. greenhouse for the winter. In fact, the
WATER: regular. Citrus trees have farther you live from the equator, the
relatively shallow root systems. better the quality of your citrus fruit
Water well over the entire root until you hit frost. In order from least-
zone. Established trees will tolerate to most-resilient to frost: lime, lemon,
some drought but wont produce grapefruit, orange, Meyer lemon.
high-quality fruit. Fertilize trees in January through
GROWTH HABIT: dense March. Citrus in containers should be
PROPAGATE BY: grafting, budding, fed January through June. A fertilizer
cuttings with micronutrients is important,
SPACING: dependent on type and variety especially for container-grown trees.
YEARS TO BEARING: three to five Containerized Meyer lemons are more
PRUNING: Remove suckers coming from than a novelty; theyre handsome,
below the graft. Remove any shoots relatively undemanding plants (keep
that extend beyond the general them well fed and watered; check for
shape of the tree. Thin overly dense spider mites and scale) that smell
foliage to promote air circulation heavenly in bloom and, with age, can
and light penetration. Citrus can produce pounds of delicious, slightly
be trained as shrubs or hedges, or sweet lemons.
limbed up into a tree. If the trunk is BEST USED IN: liqueur, wine, infusions
exposed, it will need protection from for cocktails, beer
sunburn. Many citrus types have

Corn A corn crop isnt something you can
Corn has long been thought of as the grow easily on a balcony or in a container.
domain of the macro brewers and tasteless, Corn needs room to grow and will grab all
light beer. However, with the resurgence of the nutrients in the soil to help it grow tall
craft lagers, and thanks to other creative and strong. You need a stand of corn for
recipes, corn is regaining some popularity. good pollination or you will wind up with
For the home gardener, corn may be kernel-less ears of corn. It is possible to
a satisfying crop to grow in the backyard. grow your corn in a pot; however, given the
Although you can grow corn in rows, for cost of potting soil versus yield, it may not
best pollination it is better to grow the crop be worth the trouble for a dubious outcome.
using the square foot gardening method. Growing the same crops yearly means
Basically, grow your corn in 4x4-foot rotating them so that you renew the soil.
squares, spacing your seeds so that one Follow corn with a cover crop such as crim-
corn plant occupies one 12x12-inch square, son clover that will add nutrients back to
which equals sixteen plants per 4x4-foot the soil after the heavy-feeding corn crop
square. Each plant will produce one to two strips most of it away. Or use the sustain-
ears of corn, so calculate how many plants able, three sisters method of growing
you will need before you plan how many corn, squash and beans, mentioned in the
squares or rows to prepare for planting. cucurbit section on see page 79.
If you have a long, warm growing sea-
son you can plant early-, mid-, and late-
season varieties. If your season is short,
spring remains cold well into June, or your
summers are typically mild, early season
varieties are a good choice. If you are con-
cerned about genetically engineered corn,
or the chemicals used to grow them, grow-
ing your own is one way to control what
goes in to the food you consume. Select
organically grown seeds and grow them
yourself. Seed houses such as Johnnys
Selected Seeds in Maine or Territorial Seed
Company in Oregon sell a good selection of
corn varieties suitable for cooler climate- or
short-season growing and offer GEO-free
(mistakenly called GMO) seed.
90 | CHAPTER 3

Corn
BOTANICAL NAME: Zea mays
subsp. mays
PLANT TYPE: vegetable
USDA ZONES: 48
HEIGHT: 410 feet
SOIL: warm (65 to 85 degrees
Fahrenheit) loam, amended
with compost and fertilizer ears tightly wrapped in the refriger-
LIGHT: full sun ator until you have gathered enough
WATER: moderate to high. Water regu- for your recipe.
larly and deeply. Soaker hoses make NOTES: Corn is wind pollinated, so
the job simpler and more efficient. planting in large blocks (for example:
GROWTH HABIT: large, leafy stalks four rows, 10 feet long) gives better
PROPAGATE BY: seed. Corn is best direct- pollinationand fuller earsthan
seeded, but can be sown in peat pots planting in one or two long rows.
at the last average date of frost and Planting in cold, wet soil can cause
planted out once the seedlings are corn seed to rot. To prevent this,
4inches high. use a soil thermometer to test that
SPACING: Sow in clusters of four to six the soil has warmed to at least 65
seeds every 12 inches in rows 2430 degrees Fahrenheit, and soak seed in
inches apart; thin to the strongest warm water (68 degrees Fahrenheit)
seedling when 45 inches high. for about eight hours before planting,
MONTHS TO HARVEST: three which speeds germination. Keep soil
PRUNING: none moist until the seed has sprouted
HARVEST: Each corn stalk produces in about four to five days. Corn is a
two ears, occasionally three. To test heavy feeder, so fertilize twice during
for ripeness, pull back the tip of the the growing season with fish emul-
husk until a few kernels are exposed sion; once when the stalks are knee-
and pierce one with a thumbnail. high and again when the tassels
If its plump and milky, its ready start to show. A mulch of compost
to pick. Corn of the same variety or rotted manure is helpful to keep
planted on the same date bears over corns shallow roots moist and to
a relatively short season, usually discourage weeds.
less than two weeks. Store harvested BEST USED IN: liqueurs, beer

Sugar Beets of sucrose. Swiss chard is also a type of
Sugar beet roots look more like parsnips B. vulgaris. If you are concerned about
on steroids than your typical table beet genetically engineered sugar beets, or
and can grow as large as a basketball. You the chemicals used to grow them, much
will want to pick them at a smaller size, like corn, growing your own is one way to
however, when the sucrose is at its peak. ensure against GEO (mistakenly called
The plant part we use is actually the tap- GMO) lurking in the food you consume.
root of the beet (Beta vulgaris), a species The beet can take some frost and pre-
which includes the table beet for its edible fers growing in the cooler temperatures
roots or its greens in salads. For brewing, of fall and spring. Be careful not to crowd
winemaking, or infusing we use the tap- them or the root will not fatten up into
root, which contains high concentrations aglobe.
Sugar Beets
BOTANICAL NAME: Beta vulgaris GROWTH HABIT: swollen root with edible
PLANT TYPE: root vegetable leaves
USDA ZONES: all zones. Where sum- PROPAGATE BY: seed sown in spring
mers are hot (in parts of Zone 8 and SPACING: 4 inches. Sow several seeds in
warmer), grow beets as a fall, late a cluster every 4 inches and thin to
winter, or early spring crop. the strongest seedling when plants
HEIGHT: 12 inches reach 2 inches.
SOIL: fertile loam. The soil should MONTHS TO HARVEST: two
be amended, tilled, and all rocks PRUNING: none
removed from the area of the rows HARVEST: Dig sugar beets when they
where the beets will be planted for measure about 2 inches in diameter.
unhindered root growth. At the bot- Larger beets will become fibrous and
tom of each row, work in complete, lose their sweet flavor.
organic fertilizer at the rate of 1 cup NOTES: Sugar beets can grow in
per 5 feet. a variety of soils and climates.
LIGHT: full sun Plantin rows 12 to 16 feet apart.
WATER: regular. Keep well-watered, Feed with fish emulsion every
especially when the fifth and sixth two weeks once the seedlings are
leaves show, which signals the 4 inches tall.
growth of the root. BEST USED IN: liqueurs, beer, wine
92 | CHAPTER 3

The beauty of growing beets for brew- color, pick it; waiting any longer causes
ing or making liqueurs is you can use them the peppers to decline quickly. If you
fresh, or freeze or can your harvest and save arent sure when they are mature, the rule
for a later brewing/infusion date. Frozen of thumb is to begin harvesting the first
beets will last up to one year in the freezer. peppers 75 to 90 days after transplanting
To freeze your beets, select ones that them. However, the hotter the climate, the
are no larger than 2 inches in diame- sooner the peppers are ready. The easi-
ter. Leave -inch stem on one end and a est way to harvest most peppers is to use
-inch taproot on the other. Leaving them pruners to cut the fruit off the plant.
on prevents the beet from bleeding during Generally, serrano peppers are picked
the cooking process. Cover the beets in while they are still green, and the cayennes
water, bring the water to a boil, and cook and tabasco peppers are picked when they
twenty-five to thirty minutes until tender. are red and a bit soft and come off the plant
Promptly cool the beets in cold water to easily. Jalapeos should be their full size of
stop the cooking process. Peel the cooled around 3 inches (depending on the variety)
beets, and remove the stems and taproots. and dark green when you begin harvesting
Cut into cubes and package in freezer bags
or containers. Leave -inch headspace to
allow for freeze expansion. Seal the con-
tainer and freeze.
The amount of beets you use will vary
and depend on the recipes you use the root
for in beer, wine, or liqueurs.
Hot Peppers
Peppersno matter if they are hot, sweet,
or bland tastinglike growing in the heat.
If the climate where you live doesnt give
you hot summers, grow your pepper plants
against a south-facing wall, or in a hoop
house to increase the warmth around your
plants. You can harvest your fruit at almost
any stage of their growth. The heat of your
peppers will be considerably greater the
more mature they are at the time of pick-
ing. Once the pepper has turned its final

them. Later, when they display corking through-your-ears sensation from the
(tan streaking) they are good for pickling. hottest, spiciest beer your mouth can han-
Red is their final mature stage and that is dle. For your first venture into spicing up
when the flavor turns both hot and sweet. your brew, start with a recipe with good
Habaneros ripe color will vary according reviews. Some recipes call for adding pep-
to variety, but are picked at their final pers to the boil; others call for using them
stage color. in the secondary, and some call for both.
Same cautions apply when you are Adjust and experiment until you design
harvesting your hot fruit and want to rub your own recipe that matches your heat
your eyes. Dont! Wear gloves and keep tolerance. If you find a batch is too hot, let
those away from your eyes too. the bottles age to mellow the heat. Still too
Caution also applies to how many pep- hot? Use the beer in a chili recipe!
pers to add to your batch of beer. Do you If you cant use your peppers right
like just a touch of pepper heat and good away, store them in a paper bag with their
flavor, or would you prefer more of a jala- stems still attached, and place in the refrig-
peo twist? Maybe you prefer a breathe- erator where they will store up to a week.
Pepper plants

Peppers, Hot and Sweet
BOTANICAL NAME: Capsicum annuum
(jalapeos, wax, cayenne, paprika,
and bell peppers), Capsicum chinense
(habanero)
PLANT TYPE: herbaceous perennials,
grown as annuals in cooler zones
USDA ZONES: 413, hardy in Zone 11
and above
HEIGHT: 14 feet
SOIL: sandy loam amended with
compost
LIGHT: full sun
WATER: regular
GROWTH HABIT: low, shrubby
PROPAGATE BY: seed
SPACING: 1824 inches
MONTHS TO HARVEST: two to five from
planting out
PRUNING: none
HARVEST: Most peppers reach peak fla-
vor once they turn their mature color Anaheim chili
of red, orange, yellow, or purple.
NOTES: Peppers need at least are setout when nights are
70degrees Fahrenheit to grow consistently at or above 55 degrees
and set flowers. However, if the Fahrenheit, approximately two to
temperature is higher than 90 three weeks after the last expected
degrees Fahrenheit or lower than date of frost. Peppers make good
60 degrees Fahrenheit, the plants container plants. In theground or
drop their blossoms. Peppers are in containers, peppersbenefit from
only direct-seeded in the very a complete organic fertilizer worked
warmest zones. Most gardeners into the soilbeforetransplanting,
buystarts or sow pepper seed which should be enough to see the
indoors ten to twelve weeks before plants through the season.
the last expected frost. Transplants BEST USED IN: craft beers, liquers

CHAPTER 4
All Sorts of Wines

Growing Grapes and Other Fruits

G
rape wine. Its a term as redundant as avocado guacamole or cabbage
sauerkraut. No one asks the waiter to recommend a good grape
wine or the store clerk to point the way to the grape wine aisle. Order
the house white and you dont have to ask what fruit is filling your
glass. When we talk wine, the role of grapes is implied. Even the names of our wines
chardonnay, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, pinot noircome from grape varieties. Wine
equals grapes, right? Well, hold on, Ernest and Julio. It depends on how you define wine.
If youre a member of the European delion wine. So why are grapes the wine
Union, wine is a product obtained exclu- default? Its because grapes are ethyl
sively from the total or partial alcoholic alcohol waiting to happen. The fruits are
fermentation of fresh grapes. Grapes. self-contained little packages of sugars,
Period. On the other hand, wine can be enzymes, and acids that are eager and able
more broadly defined as a beverage made of to transform into wine with little human
any fermented plant matter: an interpreta- intervention (although humans intervene
tion that opens up a whole world of wine to plenty in the process). No other fruit is as
home crafters. Good wine is ten to fourteen spontaneously tipsy. Obviously, nature
percent alcohol, crystal clear throughout intended grapes for our enjoyment. Wine is
its natural color, and retains a hint of the their destiny.
taste and aroma of the original fruit. But Just because grapes are such a
if its not made of grapes, is it truly wine? uniquely boozy fruit is no reason to let
Yes, it is wine, but wine with a first them hog all the glory. Well-made wine
name. If its not made from grapes, its from ripe plums or tart rhubarb is a delight
fruit wine or country wine and bears for the eye and palate. With a few addi-
the name of the fruit, or other plant, that tions and a bit of know-how, practically
begat it, such as raspberry wine or dan- anything can be made into wine. Country
ALL SORTS OF WINES | 97

wines are easily concocted by the home occur during fermentation. Its a nearly
crafter with wine yeast, acids, yeast nutri- miraculous conversion thatwhile not
ent, equipment from brewers shops, and able to turn water into winedoes amaz-
sugar from the kitchen cupboard. Making ing things to fruit.
wine from fruits and herbs you grow your- At first, the process of winemaking
self is an excellent way to preserve not only may seem daunting, but it becomes clearer
the harvest, but the memory of spring blos- when you realize the process comes down
soms and summer days. Homemade wine to a standard progression:
is a time capsule of a year in your garden,
to be opened and enjoyed as a well-earned Gather, prepare, and juice or crush
reward for a season past and in anticipa- the fruit or plant matter that will star
tion of the one to come. in your wine.
Amend the juice or must with
WINEMAKING BASICS water, sugar, acids, tannins, and a
Good wine is a harmony of acid, sugar, Campden tablet as needed. Add the
tannin, and all the nuances of flavor that started yeast.

The primary fermentation begins. rine residue can leave your wine with
This is a short and very active fer- taste-bud-shriveling nuances of tin foil.
mentation that should last less than Prepare the fruit, flowers, or herbs
a week. The liquid is then racked into according to the recipe. The resulting
a carboy for . . . must, as this mash is known, or the
The secondary fermentation. This is liquid derived from it is then placed in a
a gradual process that can take up to food-grade plastic fermentation bucket.
ayear. Food-grade buckets can be purchased
Bottling or re-racking. The wine is from homebrew suppliers. These buckets
siphoned into sterilized bottles or a are white or clearnot coloredand not
fresh carboy. purchased from the local hardware store
Aging. The bottles or carboy(s) are where theres no guarantee of food safety.
placed in a cool, dark place and left to Place your fermentation container on a
mature for several months. sturdy stand two or three feet above the
ground. This is for your convenience when
Considering wines divine nature, its the time comes to siphon off the contents.
no surprise that winemaking calls for an A crushed Campden tablet can be
immaculate inception: everythingfrom added at this time. While not necessary,
the fermentation bucket to the bottles a Campden tablet clears the way to a
must be as sterile as possible. This zealous finer product by eradicating those afore-
observation of sanitation is necessary to mentioned microscopic agents of wine
ward off bacteria and mold spores that will destruction. Once the resident yeasts
commandeer your fermentation for their have been killed, reliable cultured yeasts
own selfish interests, which are almost can be added. These wine yeasts can be
certainly not the same as yours. Purchase introduced twenty-four hours after the
a food-grade disinfectant from a brewers Campden tablet; any sooner and the tab-
supply or use general purpose, household lets sulfur dioxide will inhibit the com-
bleach mixed at a ratio of 1 tablespoon of mercial yeast as well. Rather than simply
bleach to 1 gallon of water. Apply the dis- dumping the yeast in dry, take the extra
infectant or bleach solution liberally and step of making a yeast starter.
extensively to all your winemaking para- When the yeast goes in, its time to
phernalia. Commercial sanitizers require add the other ingredients, such as sugar,
short soaks and little if any rinsing. A water, and yeast nutrient. Yeast grows best
bleach solution requires a twenty-minute in a twenty-two percent sugar solution.
soak and a thorough rinsing as chlo- The sugar must be completely dissolved.

Giving Yeast a Head Start
T o give your brew a boost and ensure consistent results, make a starter culture
of your dry yeast. Twelve to seventy-two hours before your scheduled brew
day rehydrate the yeast in warm water (95105 degrees Fahrenheit) according
to package directions. Proof the mixture with something sweet for the yeast
to digest: Malt for beer, sterilized juice for wine or cider, honey for mead. Add a
teaspoon of yeast nutrient and 2 teaspoons of sugar for every pint of mix. A
pint of starter is sufficient for 5 gallons of wine or beer. If the yeast is healthy, the
mixture should soon start to foam. Half a day to three days later, the starter can
be incorporated with the other ingredients.
Theres no need to be fancy: inexpen- days to a week, and stirred twice daily. A
sive white table sugar is commonly used vintners heating belt is useful for main-
(although superfine sugar dissolves more taining temperature. Unlike a heating pad,
quickly). Water that has been boiled must which can be damaged beneath a 60- or
be cooled to at least 80 degrees Fahrenheit 70-pound fermenter, a heating belt wraps
to avoid killing the yeast. Avoid distilled, around the vessel.
very hard, or heavily chlorinated water. The primary fermentation is complete
A yeast nutrient is a good investment; its when carbon dioxide bubbles stop rising.
a mix of B vitamins, amino acids, nitrog- You should see a defined deposit at the
enous matter, and other agents that bottom of the container (easier to see in a
encourage robust yeast growth and dis- glass jug). At this point, transfer the liq-
courage the fermentation from grinding to uid into one or more carboys. The choice
a halt (known by winemakers as becom- of how many secondary containers to use
ing stuck). Now the primary fermenta- comes down to your wish to fine-tune your
tion will begin, and the container must be wine in different ways, or how full each
covered loosely with a lid or plastic wrap, carboy can be filled. The secondary fer-
kept at 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit for four mentation requires an absence of air, so
100 | CHAPTER 4

the liquid needs to fill a container as fully is the time to take a hydrometer reading;
as possible, ideally just below the bottom of the wine is ready when the reading is the
the airlock. One carboy to hold the entire same three days in a row. Some wines are
batch is typical, but two vessels work bet- racked and, subsequently, topped off one
ter if the combination leaves a minimum or more times during this second stage.
amount of headroom in each. Any remain- They may also be fined with a product
ing space must be topped up with water such as a silicic acid and gelatin combina-
that has been boiled and cooled, or wine of tion to clear the wine. For a higher-quality
the same type. On the other hand, if theres libation, siphon into a fresh carboy (or oak
too much liquid, save the excess for future barrel) when the specific gravity drops to
topping up. .996 or below, and let your wine bulk age in
The transfer is usually accomplished a cool place for one month to a year accord-
with the aid of a siphon or a spigot built into ing to the recipe. If the wine is still cloudy,
the fermentation bucket. Avoid splashing as a last resort you can filter it with a brew-
the wine as it will add excess oxygen. Pour ers filtration kit.
the liquid through a sterilized strainer Now celebrate, for the time has come to
or straining funnel. If youre feeling par- bottle your wine. White wines can be stored
ticularly daring, you can strain through in bottles of any hue, but the color of red
cheesecloth, but the resulting trouble and wines is preserved best in green bottles.
mess may convince you to spend a few dol- Before beginning bottling, a quick reminder:
lars on a nylon strainer. Resist the urge to sanitize, sanitize, sanitize. Contaminated
squeeze or press the juice from the fruit equipment is the number one cause of
especially high-pectin ones such as apples homebrewing failure. So lets clean those
and blackcurrantsas it will encourage bottles. Bottles can be soaked in the same
pectin haze. Once the carboy is filled and brewers disinfectant as other equipment;
topped off, firmly insert a bung with air- however, theyre also good candidates for
lock. Fill the airlock reservoir with sani- heat treatment in the oven, which truly
tizer, water, or vodka. This is the beginning sterilizes all surfaces. Bottles must be
of the secondary fermentation, and the car- completely clean before being placed in the
boy should be kept at around 60 degrees oven. At 225 degrees Fahrenheit. the bot-
Fahrenheit. tles should be microbe-free in two hours.
The secondary fermentation will bur- Bring the bottles to temperature gradually,
ble along for two months to a year, depend- about 5 degrees Fahrenheit per minute, to
ing on the type of wine. The surest way to avoid breakage. Dont preheat; just lay the
judge the end of this stage is when all bub- bottles on their sides into a cold oven and
bling has ceased and the wine is clear. This turn the dial. If your bottles are thoroughly

ge:100 (Text) Dtp:VIVIAN Page:101
dry, you can bake them with their open- the liquid may first be drained into a pitcher
ings wrapped in aluminum foil. After (by one of these methods) and then poured
theyve cooled, they then can be stored in into each bottle with the aid of a funnel. In
their sterile state until called upon. the bottle, the wine should reach to about
You can load your wine directly into the inch below where the bottom of the cork
bottles via a siphon or spigot and tubing, or will sit. Use new corks and set them so that
Talk Winemaking like a Pro

Aperitif: a wine to be served before systems, top and center) of the trunk
dinner; usually high in alcohol and of a grapevine. Fruit-bearing shoots
slightly sweet grow from the cordons. Most trellis
Brix: the percentage of sugar in systems have two cordons, extending
the must in opposite directions along a
Cane: one-year-old grape growth horizontal wire.
Cap: the head of foam and residue Dessert wine: sweet wines to
that forms atop a liquid undergoing accompany the final course of a meal.
primary fermentation Paired with fruit or dessert.
Chaptalization: neutralizing acid in Drupe: a stone fruit, like a plum
the must or adding sugar to raise the or cherry
alcohol level Filtering: running the wine through
Clarifying: the removal of wine a commercially available filtration kit
haze caused by excess pectin to remove or reduce wine haze
Country wine (fruit wine): wine not Finings: a clearing agent that clarifies
made from grapes wine or beer near the end of the
Cordon: a branch that grows hori- secondary fermentation; to fine is to
zontally from the top (or, in some clarify the solution
102 | CHAPTER 4

their tops are level with the top of the bot- Once in the bottleor, alternatively,
tles. Leave the bottles to sit upright for two stored in a carboy sealed with a plastic
days, and then put them on their sides to bungyour wine will embark on its final
keep the corks from drying and shrinking. maturation, a reductive aging. This stage
Store as you would store-bought winein a gradually uses up the oxygen within the
cool, dark, dry room or cellar. bottle. Although the environment is nearly
Haze: cloudiness in wine caused by Straining: running the wine through

suspended particles such as pectin a sieve or cheesecloth to remove
or protein impurities. For an extra-clear wine,
Macerate: to crush and steep fruit line the sieve with cheesecloth.
without heating Table wine: wine to be served
Must: a fruit or vegetable mash with dinner
or solution containing sugar and Vraison: the onset of ripening
headed for fermentation when the grapes begin to
Oenology: the science of winemaking change color
Pectinase: an enzyme that breaks Vigneron: a grape grower
down pectin to clarify wine Viniculture: the study and
Ptillant: sparkling characteristic production of grapes specifically
of wine for wine
Reductive aging: maturing Vinification: winemaking
that occurs after wine is bottled. Vintner: a winemaker
It is reductive because the Viticulture: the study and
amount of oxygen in the bottle is production of grapes
gradually depleted.

airtight (a minute amount of oxygen is GRAPES
absorbed through the cork), enough oxy- Welcome to the Grand Order of the Grape.
gen is present to react with compounds in Thinking of becoming a member? As clubs
the wine for many years, allowing some go, its not too demanding; theres no secret
wines to develop complex flavors and aro- handshake, but we do have our own arcane
mas. Study your recipes carefully, though; vocabulary: Cordon, vigneron, phylloxera,
while extended storage is a plus for many vraison. Our mascot? The four-armed
winesincluding many grape onescer- Kniffen. And the initiation! Not to give
tain country wines are an exception. Most too much away, but youre going to need a
wines do benefit from several months of sturdy pair of pruners. We even have a club
maturation in the bottle. However, if you creed: spur pruning keeps cordons year to
fail to drink your country wine within a year, but vine pruning cuts the cordons
year, it may begin to lose quality. near (the trunk).
Lets check the handbook to see if youd
like to join.
Grapes like it hot, dry, and sunny.
Although these conditions are optimal,
one type of grape or other can be grown
in almost any area of the United States. In
colder climates, give grapes the advantage
of every bit of sun and heat you can wring
out of your site, such as a south-facing sit-
uation with a wall at their back or a frost-
pocket-free slope. The choice of variety is
extremely important, not only for the type
of wine youd like and the amount of space
you have, but ultimately for vines that will
survive and thrive in your backyard
wherever that may be.
Four types of grapes can be used for
wine: European (Vitis viniferia), northeast-
ern American (V. labrusca), southeastern
American muscadine (V. rotundifolia), and
A grape arbor can be a defining feature of a patio.

interspecific hybrids between European
and American grapes (known as French-
American hybrids). Northeastern American
grapes (such as Concord) are the most
cold-hardy, while European grapes, which
make up the vast majority of commercially
produced wine, do best in regions with
Mediterranean-type climates. Although
theres no question that European grapes
are the gold standard for wine production,
they are also the most finicky.
Muscadines are well-adapted to the
heat of the south. They make non-stan-
dard, regionally enjoyed wine thats consid-
ered by connoisseurs to be a bit assertive.
The French-American hybrids are gener-
ally hardier than European varieties, if
not quite so much as American species.
Theyre also nearly as disease-resistant
as their American kin, while the wine
they produce compares with that of their Grapevine climbing up a tree
European side. Within each of these broad
categories of grape are multiple cultivars.
With so many available varieties, the aspir- vey your property, deciding where to plant
ing vintner with an optimal climate faces your grapes, keep in mind not only sun
an excitingif head-spinningchoice. Do and heat, but longevity. Grapes are long-
your research and ask local experts what lived and need a permanent location with
grapes perform best in your region. plenty of room for an 8-foot run per plant
Buy certified, virus-free, one-year-old (or 16 feet for muscadines). Grapes appre-
plants. Year-old plants are less likely to be ciate well-drained, slightly alkaline soil.
last years rejects and more likely to sur- The planting area shouldnt be too nutri-
vive transplanting than older plants. When ent-rich, or the vines will put their efforts
your plants arrive, do not allow the roots into leaves at the expense of fruit.
to dry out. Before planting, which should Of course, your vineyard will need a
be within a week of delivery, soak the roots sturdy and permanent support. Single ver-
in water for six to eight hours. As you sur- tical poles, like those used in growing hops,

are inappropriate for grapes, which need a important decisions when planning your
long run. Although you can grow grapevines trellis are how high, and one tier or two.
on a fence, arbor, or pergola, the most con- Two-tier (two-wire) trellises are good,
venient and businesslike support is a trel- all-purpose systems for grapes. They are
lising system of poles and wire. Your most made with sturdy 8-foot wood or metal
Grape
BOTANICAL NAME: Vitis vinifera; Vitis trim it to four buds, and tie it to the
labrusca upright support. This is the start
PLANT TYPE: woody vine of the trunk. The following spring,
USDA ZONES: 410 allow offshoots from the new trunk
HEIGHT: Vines can grow to 115 feet in to grow to no more than 8 inches
length, but seventy to ninety percent before selecting the strongest to
is pruned away. Trunks are formed continue the trunk; tie this chosen
at 16 feet, depending on the prun- shoot upright to the support. Remove
ing system. the other shoots, unless you have a
SOIL: deep, well-drained, slightly acid. two-tiered (four-arm Kniffen) sup-
Soil that is too rich encourages plant port, then also keep two strong lower
growth at the expense of fruiting. shoots to head along the bottom
LIGHT: full sun, hot site wires (one to each side). Cut off all
WATER: medium to dry. Grapes tolerate other shoots. Top the trunk shoot
drought once established. (cane) at 810 inches above the top
GROWTH HABIT: spreading vine, climbing wirewherever you chose the top
by coiling tendrils wire to be. The height of the trunk
PROPAGATE BY: cuttings, grafting can be 1 foot (low wire) or 46 feet
SPACING: 58 feet (high wire) depending on your prefer-
YEARS TO BEARING: threeremove all ence, and whether your chosen grape
flowers for the first two years. variety tends to hang down or grow
TRAINING: Specific to grapes, new grape upright. Now the vines growing from
plants should go in the ground in the trunk will be pruned according
spring as short sticks with only to the system (cane or spur) and the
three to four buds. Do no further type of support (wire or arbor).
pruning the first summer as the PRUNING: Grape fruit is produced
buds grow into shoots. That winter, on new growth. Grape pruning is
cut away all but the sturdiest shoot; done annually during the dormant
106 | CHAPTER 4

posts set 24 feet apart and 2 feet into the of the stress, so these need to be especially
ground. Two wires are strung along the sturdy and set at an angle against the pull
posts: the lower wire 40 to 45 inches above of the wires.
the ground, the top wire 12 to 14 inches A two-wire system such as this is
above the lower wire. End posts carry most made for four cordons (branches): two
season (before the buds swell) for fruit-producing canes. In this form
the purpose of limiting the amount of pruning, the old cordons are
of fruiting wood, thus lessening cut away each year and replaced
shade and limiting the load of fruit, by two new canes (or four, in the
which maximizes quality. There are Kniffen system) to become that years
different pruning systems, which cordons; only the trunk remains the
are appropriate for different grape same from year to year.
cultivars. All pruning systems are THINNING AND HARVEST: To thin the
done atop the trunk developed fruit, space the clusters so they
during the first two years training. dont touch. Harvest is approxi-
The cane system of pruning works mately 530 pounds in September
well for most grape types and most and October. Grapes may change
at-home growers. During dormancy, color before they are fully ripe, so
cut off all but two canes (or four, a taste test is the best indicator of
on two-tier Kniffen systems) of last ripeness. Cut the clusters when
years growth, including last years they are dry, and keep them that
two (or four) horizontal canes, way until its time to put them in
known as cordons. The chosen canes the fermenter. Grapes keep their
will come from the old cordons; quality for two to three weeks in
they should be strong new shoots therefrigerator.
growing as near as possible to the NOTES: Well-tended vines can produce
trunk. These will replace last years thirty to sixty clusters. Grape plants
cordons (which you just cut away) are self-pollinating. They live eighty
and are bent over and wound around years or more. Remove flowers for
the wires (or through the arbor, if the first two years to allow the
that is your chosen support). They plants to develop strong root sys-
are trimmed to ten buds. From tems. Many animals love grapes.
these new cordons will grow new, BEST USED IN: wine

putting the plants in the ground to avoid
damaging them.
Grapes also can be grown on a deco-
rative trellis, arbor, or pergola. A trellis is
a two-dimensional support; it can be free-
standing or attached to a building. An
arbor has a roof and walls. Arbors often
arch over a walkway or incorporate a gate
or bench. A pergola has posts (four, at least)
holding up a roof. Pergolas may provide
shade or serve as outdoor extensions to a
homes sitting or eating area. Be aware that
grapes grown on these ornamental struc-
tures can be lovely, but theyre also chal-
lenging to prune, especially if latticework is
involved. If youre planning such a support,
its prudent to leave out the lattice and stick
to clean, uncomplicated posts, beams, and
rafters. Even grapevines grown for orna-
mentation and shade must be pruned.
Once the trellis is up, its time to plant
your vineyard. Amend the planting area
with compost and, as long as youre dig-
Fresh grapes on the vine
ging around, remove every trace of weeds.
Grapes are usually planted in the spring,
per wire, one to each side. A single-wire before they break dormancy. Plant 8 to 10
system is another common choice; in this feet apart. Dig the holes to such a depth that
case, the wire is set anywhere from 1 to the graft union sits 3 to 4 inches above the
6 feet above the ground. The height of the ground. While the roots are visible, install
top wire will be the height at which you a 1x1-inch wooden (or bamboo) grape stake
develop the trunk, which is determined at the base of each plant; stakes should be
in large part by the growth habit of the about 5 feet long with 1 foot of that length
grapes you choose. Use 9- to 12.5-gauge in the ground for a sturdy hold. These will
fencing wire and posts of metal or rot- be used to stabilize the canes you select to
resistant wood. Build your trellis before become the trunk.
108 | CHAPTER 4

Cover the roots with soil and fill the above the graft. Keep the soil moist, but not
hole with water to the top. As the water soggy, for the first month.
soaks in, it will settle the soil firmly around Soon the shoots will begin to live up to
the roots. Finish covering with soil, leaving their name. As they rocket upward, keep
a depression to hold water and make the the new canes tied to the stake; vines flop-
job easier. If the plants didnt arrive pre- ping around on the ground are an invitation
pruned, prune them above the graft to to disease and damage. If any precocious
two to three buds on the strongest shoot flower clusters appear the first or second
and remove all other shoots and buds. year, nip them in the bud. The job now is
Also, remove any stray roots coming from to train the vines to a trunk andif youll
A Clear Improvement: How the Romans

MadeWineBetterthrough Glass

T he first taste is in the eye.
Sophoclesa Greekmay have said it, but the Romans perfected it, at
least when it comes to wine. And it came about through glass.
Although Romans did not invent glassblowing, they greatly improved it. Not
only did the Romans develop innovative new glassblowing techniques, they also
discovered that clear glass could be achieved at much lower temperatures with
the inclusion of fluxan agent added to reduce the melting point of the quartz
then in use.
From this breakthrough, delicate, thin-walled drinking glasses were born.
Now the citizens of Romeused to imbibing from opaque ceramic, metal, or
horn vesselscould see what they were drinking. Suddenly, the color and clarity
of their wine became a consideration. Ever since, the world has sipped with both
tongue and eye.

be spur pruningpermanent cordons. The ing is done in the dormant season shortly
first winter after planting, cut away all before growth starts.
but the sturdiest cane; trim it to four buds Cane pruning and spur pruning are the
and tie to the upright support. This is the two main forms of grape training. Research
start of the trunk. The following spring, any grape variety you plan to grow to learn
allow offshoots from the new trunk to grow which pruning style it demands. If you have
to no more than 8 inches before selecting mystery grapes, start with cane pruning; if
the strongest to continue the trunk; tie the fruit appears close to the cordons, from
this chosen cane upright to the support. the first couple of buds of last years growth,
Remove the other canes, unless you have a switch to spur pruning. If clusters of grapes
two-tiered (four-arm Kniffen) support; then are spread out all along the cane, continue
also keep two strong lower canes to head to caneprune.
along the bottom wire; one to each side. Cut The cane system works well for most
off all other canes. Top the trunk cane at grape types and most at-home growers. To
the top wirewherever youve chosen the cane prune, cut off all but two canes (or
top wire to be. The height of the trunk can four, on two-tier Kniffen systems) of last
be 1 foot (low wire) or 4 to 6 feet (high wire) years growth, including last years two
depending on your preference and whether (or four) horizontal canes, known as cor-
your chosen grape variety tends to hang dons. The chosen canes will come from
down or grow upright. Now the vines grow- the old cordons; they should be strong new
ing from the trunk will be pruned accord- shoots growing as near as possible to the
ing to the system (cane or spur) and the trunk. These will replace last years cor-
type of support (wire or arbor). dons (which you have just cut away) and
Grapes are produced on new growth. are bent over and wound around or tied to
Pruning is done annually during the dor- the wires (or through the arbor, if that is
mant season (before the buds swell) for the your chosen support). Theyre trimmed to
purpose of limiting the amount of fruiting ten buds, leaving approximately 18 to 24
wood, thus lessening shade and limiting inches of vine. From these new cordons
the load of fruit, which maximizes quality. will grow new, fruit-producing canes. In
There are different pruning systems, which this form of pruning, the old cordons are
are appropriate for different grape culti- cut away each year and replaced by two
vars. All pruning systems are done atop new canes (or four, in the Kniffen system)
the trunk developed during the first two to become that years cordons; only the
years training. The main structural prun- trunk remains the same from year to year.
110 | CHAPTER 4

Americans in Paris, or, Gee, Thanks
N ot everything should be shared. In the mid-1800s, European vineyards

became a stunning example of the worst that can happen when non-
native species are introduced to a new continent.
From the earliest days of farming in the New World, grapevines imported
from Europe withered and died in the foreign soil. No one was sure of the
cause, but whatever was making the European vines fail didnt appear to affect
Americas native grapes (which made disappointing wine). Unfortunately, bot-
anists ignored the wine-red warning signs and eventually sent samples of the
robust native grapes to Europe.
Thus were the gates opened and the Trojan horse rolled in. American soil, it
turns out, is infested with nearly microscopic sucking insects that feed on grape
roots, causing them to deform, choking off water and nutrition, and opening the
door to other organisms that join in the assault. Eventually the tiny parasites were
discovered and given the name phylloxera (Daktulosphaira vitifoliae). With the
native soil infested by these greedy little organisms, American grapevines had
to adapt or die, and adapt they had. Although the native vines are attacked by
phylloxera, the plants have evolved to flourish in spite of the pests.
Not so with European grapes. When the American vines were introduced
to the Old World, the devastation to French vineyards was swift and very nearly
complete. Within twenty-five years, three-quarters of European vineyards had
succumbed to phylloxera. As the vines died, viniculturists scrambled to save the
wine industry. The solution came from grafting: European cultivars were affixed
to phylloxera-tolerant roots. More recently, hybrids of European and American
grapes are showing promise in both vigor and vinification.

Spur pruning is the other basic style of visible bud from the base. In the spring,
grape training. It differs from cane pruning that bud will grow into a cane with two
in that the cordons are permanent rather clusters of grapes; a second bud, hidden at
than being replaced each year. Knobby the base of the cane stub, will grow to be
spurs are developed every 4 to 6 inches next years keeper cane. The keeper cane
along the cordons; from these grow the should produce a single cluster of grapes.
fruit-producing canesusually two canes To the uninitiated, grape culture might
each annually. Each year late in the dor- seem an elite and elaborate business. With
mant season, prune to one single cane per a bit of practice, though, caring for your
spur. That cane is then cut back to the first vineyard soon will be a seasonal routine.
Epic Error
L ets raise a glass of champagne and make a toast towellmistakes. May all
of our mistakes be as brilliant as this.
From the Middle Ages until the 1800s, sparkling wine was an embarrassment
to self-respecting vintners. No one wanted a beverage befouled by bubbles.
Fortunately, try as they might, cellar masters were unable to rid the world of the
effervescent menace. The cause of the wayward wine may have been one thing
vintners couldnt control: the climate. Beginning at the end of the 1300s, increas-
ingly cold winter weather hindered the ability of yeast to consume all of the
sugar during primary fermentation. By spring, the wine had been bottled. But it
wasnt finished. Fermentation resumed with the rising temperature. Now there
was no escape for the carbon dioxide naturally released when sugar converts to
alcohol. Voil! Bubbly!
Eventually the Champagne region of France convinced the world that sparkle
was special and an industry was born. So heres to serendipity. Sometimes good
fortune is really a mistake made by those with vision (or a good press agent).
112 | CHAPTER 4

FRUIT WINES coct your combinations is by considering
What type of country wine pops your cork? those that work in the kitchenlike apple
How about a blackberry Bordeaux? Or a and cranberry, blackberry and lavender,
blueberry burgundy? Maybe an upcoming rosemary and black currant. However,
special occasion calls for homemade peach until you become a winemaking virtuoso,
champagne? One thing is certain; if you youll want to rely on a proven recipe.
make wine from your homegrown fruit you Its important to know that no two
will not only be the envy of your friends, batches of wine, even from the same recipe,
youll be surprised at how many friends will turn out the same. There are many
you have. considerations that go into planning your
Wines made with fruit, herbs, and flow- homegrown, homebrewed wine: Red wines
ers have long been staples in cooler regions are best made from must, while white wines
where grapes grow grudgingly, if at all. In often begin with only the rendered juice.
tropical climes, banana wine is common. Country wines are challenging compared
Practically anything that can be fermented to grape wines because most fruits contain
can be made into wine. With any plant mat- a plethora of pectins. This gelatinous sub-
ter other than grapes, you will be called upon stance, used to set jam, will cloud your wine
to add or adjust the yeast, sugars, acids, and and needs taming with a pectin enzyme.
tannins. As an example, strawberries and Cooking or boiling fruit prior to fermenta-
raspberries are high in acid when turned tion can set the pectin and increase the ten-
into wine, and their must (fruit pulp) needs dency of your wine tohaze.
to be cut with water before fermentation, Many fruit wine recipes call for the
then back-sweetened after fermentation to addition of grape juice or grape concentrate
avoid leaving the imbiber with a permanent to round out the final product. Clear fruit
pucker. On the other hand, blander fruit juices or frozen grape concentrate pur-
such as blueberries and dessert pears (but chased from the grocery are fine, but leave
not perry pears) need an acid boost. the red juice on the shelf as it may be arti-
Are there any limits on what can be ficially colored, which wont translate well
fermented? Technically, if you can grow it to your post-fermentation product. Finally,
at home, you can make it into wine. But, flowers and herbs alone tend to result in
honestly, can you imagine asking your delicately flavored wines. When used as an
guests to choose between a grass-clipping adjunct to fruit wine, rather than including
sangria and an onion cordial? Thats not them in the primary fermentationwhere
to say your creativity cant run a bit wild. their essence is more easily lostconsider
Blending lets you put your personal stamp adding them during the secondary fermen-
on truly tasty libations. A good way to con- tation once the specific gravity reads 1.000.

Extracting Flavor wash all firm fruits, especially if theres
You might recognize this as the same tech- any chance of pesticide residue. Berries
nique as dry-hopping beer. The flavor of such as raspberries and blackberries are
some flowers and herbs can be coaxed out delicate and resent manhandling, but if
by boiling in water, seeping, and straining; theres any reason for concern, soak them
once cooled, the liquid is added to the sec- in water and drain. Herbs can be swished
ondary fermentation. Certain fruits also in a bowl of water. Keep in mind that with
can be introduced later to impart more of whatever youre gathering, you should har-
their fresh flavors to the wine. vest a bit extra of it, just in case.
There are several methods of extract- After cleaning, consider freezing your
ing flavor from fruit, flowers, and herbs. The fruit. Even an overnight freeze will burst
simplest way is to add the plant material cell walls and release additional juice. This
to the bucket prior to primary fermenta- is an especially useful tactic for berries.
tion. Alternatively, it can be steeped in boil- Once theyre thawed, the berries can be
ing water on the stove or mixed with boiled easily crushed with a potato masher. Avoid
water directly inside the fermentation bucket using a blender, which will both oxidize the
before anything else is added. Finally, it can fruit and pulverize seeds, releasing a bitter
undergo cold maceration in which the herbs taste. Soft fruits such as peaches, plums,
or flowers are covered with cool water and and apricots dont require crushing; simply
left to soak overnight; add a dose of pectin cut the fruit into chunks, remove the pits
enzyme and the maceration is complete two (or leave them in, unbroken), and into the
days later. Most fruit goes into the fermenta- fermenter they go.
tion bucket uncookedbut a few, including When planning your wine garden,
microbe-friendly elderberrymay be brought decide what kinds of wine you prefer. After
to a boil and simmered for several minutes all, your space and time are likely limited.
before being cooled and fermented. Dont Are you a fan of berry wines (which can
steam fruit, as that will cause it to oxidize. cost a fortune commercially)? Maybe a
Of course, before you can start extract- blackberry or blueberry patch is for you.
ing their essence, you must collect and Do you like white wine but have room for
clean your fruit, flowers, and herbs. Fruit only one tree? Consider an apricot, if you
should be perfectly ripe, clean, and sound; have the climate. Of course, climate should
if you wouldnt put it in your mouth, dont be your first consideration when choosing
put it in your fermenter. Windfalls are any plant. Even within a species, different
okay, if you meet the preceding criteria; cultivars are usually better adapted to dif-
wash them to remove any contaminants, ferent conditions. When in doubt, ask an
and pare away bruises. It doesnt hurt to expert in your area for recommendations.
114 | CHAPTER 4

Apricot
BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus armeniaca
PLANT TYPE: deciduous small trees.
Available as dwarfs, semi-dwarfs,
and standards
USDA ZONES: 58
HEIGHT: dwarf, 810 feet; standard,
1520 feet
SOIL: well-drained, light and loamy
soil. Apricots can tolerate somewhat
alkaline soil. years to encourage fruiting; switch to
LIGHT: full sun, part shade heavier pruning once trees begin to
WATER: regular. Apricots tolerate bear. Fruiting spurs bear for about
drought, but may drop fruit if four years, at which time they should
water is inadequate during fruit be removed. Apricots can be espal-
development. iered. They are susceptible to frost
GROWTH HABIT: vigorous; needs heavy injury and require a long growing
pruning season, but they also need a chilling
PROPAGATE BY: grafting, seed period of 500900 hours below 45
YEARS TO BEARING: dwarf, two to three; degrees Fahrenheit. The trees are
standard, three to five very early blooming, and the buds
THINNING AND HARVEST: Thin clusters to may be damaged by spring frost.
6 inches apart, one fruit per cluster, Apricots are more drought tolerant
in mid-spring when the embryonic than many fruits. For 5 gallons of
fruit is no bigger than a nickel. wine use about 18 pounds of apricots.
Apricot trees bear 1 to 5 bushels. BEST USED IN: delicate table wines and
Store apricots on the kitchen counter champagne. Favored by some as a
for four to five days or in the refriger- second choice to grapes as a quality
ator in a plastic bag for a week. Dont white wine. Apricots tend to harbor
wash until youre ready to cut them natural yeast nutrients, so ferment
for the fermenter. readily. When processing, the pits
NOTES: Most apricots are self-fertile, but may be left in to go into the fermen-
some need a pollinizer. Use little or no ter as long as they arent cracked or
fertilizer to discourage overly vigorous crushed, which can cause bitterness
growth. Prune lightly for the first five in the wine.

Black currant
BOTANICAL NAME: Ribes nigrum and buy only rust resistant varieties.
PLANT TYPE: upright shrub Many black currant varieties require
USDA ZONES: 38, best in Zones 5 and a pollinizer; use another black cur-
colder rant variety. Red and white cur-
HEIGHT: 45 feet rants do not require a pollinizer. All
SOIL: average, loamy garden soil. Will currants are very cold hardy and will
tolerate heavy or sandy soils not perform well in warm-winter cli-
LIGHT: full sun or part shade in mates. They resent heat. The plants
warmerareas are productive for about fifteen to
WATER: regular thirty years. For 5 gallons of wine
GROWTH HABIT: multiple-stemmed, use about 12 pounds of currants.
thornless BEST USED IN: red wine and sweet des-
PROPAGATE BY: cuttings sert wines, liqueurs, and cordials.
SPACING: 35 feet The strong taste of black currant is a
YEARS TO BEARING: two (three to four good addition to ciders.
years for full production)
PRUNING: When plants are four years
old, prune before growth starts to
remove oldest branches. Each year
after that, remove canes that are
more than three years old during
dormant season. Fruit is produced
on new wood.
HARVEST: 3 to 10 pounds per plant. Pick
when fully ripe for best flavor. Black
currants ripen individually within
clusters, so must be picked individu-
ally. Avoid washing currants, as they
are susceptible to fungus. Can be
kept in the refrigerator for two weeks.
NOTES: Currants are illegal to grow in
some areas because they host blister
rust, which kills American white
pines; check restriction in your area
116 | CHAPTER 4

Blackberry
BOTANICAL NAME: Rubus fruticosus
PLANT TYPE: biennial bramble
USDA ZONES: 59
HEIGHT: 1012 feet without pruning.
Canes should be trimmed to 46feet
SOIL: deep, well-drained. Mulch is
beneficial.
LIGHT: full sun
WATER: regular watering through the
growing season
GROWTH HABIT: upright or trailing vine.
Perennial roots bear biennial canes.
Some cultivars are thornless.
SPACING: rows 10 feet apart with
upright varieties 2 to 3 feet between
plants, and trailing varieties 5 feet
PROPAGATE BY: canes that sprout from
the roots. Buy certified disease-free
plants. Plants from a friends garden
may carry disease.
YEARS TO BEARING: two
HARVEST: 1 to 4 quarts per plant.
Blackberries are ready to pick when
the fruit slides easily from the plant. apart. Unlike black raspberries,
NOTES: Blackberry canes should be blackberries retain their core when
trained onto a trellis. Prune 6 inches picked. The Himalayan blackberry
off the tips of upright blackberries in Rubus armeniacus is invasive in
summer, once the canes are 3 to 4 some areas. For 5 gallons of wine use
feet; cut the resulting side branches about 15 pounds of blackberries.
to 1 foot. In fall, remove canes that BEST USED IN: Possibly the finest of the
have fruited. Also remove diseased berry wines, blackberries make a
or weak canes and those growing full-bodied red wine, which, if aged
outside the designated bed. Thin correctly, resembles a Bordeaux.
the remaining canes to 12 inches

Blueberry
BOTANICAL NAME: Vaccinium species GROWTH HABIT: shrubby
PLANT TYPE: deciduous bush. A few vari- PROPAGATE BY: softwood cuttings
eties are evergreen. (difficult to root)
USDA ZONES: 48. Some lowbush variet- SPACING: same as the height of the
ies are hardy to Zone 3; a few others plant. Lowbush, 1 feet apart in
are specially bred for Zone 10. rows 3 feet apart; highbush and rab-
HEIGHT: 115 feet biteye, 6 feet apart in rows 79 feet
SOIL: Rich, moist, acidic (pH of 4 to 5.5), apart; hardy half-high hybrids, 5 feet
high in organic matter (especially apart in rows 68 feet apart.
peat) YEARS TO BEARING: four to seven years
LIGHT: full sun for full production
WATER: regular to liberal. Will need to PRUNING: Once the plant is five years
be well-watered the first summer and old, cut back older branches to new
given supplemental water in subse- growth. Occasionally remove the
quent summers. oldest branch to the ground.
Blueberries fall colors are stunning.

Blueberry (Darrow) flowers
HARVEST: 225 pounds depending on growth begins with ammonium

type and variety. The berries hold sulfate or a complete, acid-based
well on the plant, so can be picked fertilizer in a formulation as close to
in large lots once a week (if the birds 16-8-8 as possible. Follow package
dont get them first). Pick when fully directions and dont over-fertilize.
ripe for best flavor. An annual topdressing of an acidic
NOTES: Blueberry plants are attractive mulch such as peat moss, cottonseed
in the landscape. Different types of meal, or conifer needles is beneficial.
blueberries are best adapted to dif- Birds love blueberries too; netting is
ferent regions. The long-lived plants needed. Some blueberries have high
can produce for eighty years. Grow potassium sorbate levels that inhibit
at least two cultivars for best pollina- fermentation. For 5 gallons of wine
tion. Blueberries need cool winters. use about 13 pounds of blueberries.
Feed blueberries in spring just before BEST USED IN: mild, sweet red wine

Cherry
BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus avium (sweet
cherry); Prunus cerasus (sour or pie
cherry)
PLANT TYPE: tree
USDA ZONES: 59 (sweet); 49 (sour)
HEIGHT: standard sweet cherries, 2040 cherry blossoms
feet; sweet cherries on dwarfing root-
stock, 1012 feet. Sour, 1520 feet
SOIL: light and well-drained with ripe; cherries dont ripen further after
mid-fertility harvest. Cherries can be frozen over
LIGHT: full sun several weeks as they are gathered.
WATER: regular. Cherries cannot stand Freezing releases more juice from the
in waterlogged soil, but neither cherries for fermenting.
should the roots dry out. Water NOTES: Cherries are best in regions with
during arid summers. chilly winters and mild to moder-
GROWTH HABIT: upright tree (sweet ate summers. Cold, wet springs can
cherry); spreading tree (sour cherry) greatly reduce the crop. Some sweet
PROPAGATE BY: grafting, seed cherries are self-fertile. When choos-
SPACING: for sour and dwarf sweet cher- ing two sweet cherry cultivars, be cer-
ries, 12 feet; for standard-sized sweet tain they will cross with each other.
cherries, 2025 feet. All sour cherries self-pollinating,
YEARS TO BEARING: sweet, five to seven; but wont pollinate sweet cherries.
sour, two to three The trees have a life expectancy of
PRUNING: Prune after flowering to thirty-five years. Birds love cherries.
reduce chance of bacterial infection. A quart of pitted cherries makes a
Cut back mature sweet cherries only gallon of wine.
to thin, or remove broken or diseased BEST USED IN: sweet red wines. Cherries
branches. Completely remove the ferment well. Occasionally, a variety
occasional older branch of a mature of sweet cherry can produce a slight
sour cherry to encourage new off-flavor in wines; Bing cherries
growth. The fruit grows on spurs dont have this fault. Neither do sour
that are long-lived dont need to be cherries, which are considered to
renewed by pruning. make the finest of the cherry wines.
HARVEST: 2550 pounds. Sour cherries The pits dont need to be removed
ripen two to three weeks after sweet prior to fermenting; however, do not
cherries. Pick when the fruit is fully crush the pits. Remove the stems.
120 | CHAPTER 4

Cranberry
BOTANICAL NAME: Vaccinium freezing, so pick the fruit before the
macrocarpon first frost. If they must be harvested
PLANT TYPE: evergreen ground cover before they are fully ripe, the
USDA ZONES: 39. If temperature goes berries can be laid out in a warm
below 10 degrees Fahrenheit, plants spot indoors to finish ripening.
need to be heavily mulched. The berries are ready for picking
HEIGHT: 26 inches when theyre dark red with brown
SOIL: well-drained, very acidic soil, seed. The berries must be hand-
high in organic matter. Add peat or harvested. The fruit can last two
sand for good drainage. Cranberries months in the refrigerator.
can be grown in straight peat moss. NOTES: Because the plants are
Consider removing existing soil frequently replaced by rooting
and replacing with a customized runners, cranberry beds can
mix especially for cranberries. No survive and produce almost
bogneeded. indefinitely. The beds require
LIGHT: full sun careful weeding because of their
WATER: heavy. Soil must remain moist. low stature. The heavy peat moss
GROWTH HABIT: spreading stems root to component of the cranberry bed
increase the patch will discourage manybut not all
PROPAGATE BY: self-layered stems weeds. Cranberries arent grown
SPACING: 1 foot apart in rows 2 feet under boggy conditions; they are
apart sometimes commercially harvested
YEARS TO BEARING: three by flooding (creating a temporary
PRUNING: Cranberries are pruned bog). Feed first-year cranberry
with sand. Every two to three years, plants with a high-nitrogen fertilizer
inch of sand is used to cover the to encourage runners. Discontinue
ground-lying runners, leaving the the nitrogen by years two to three to
upright growth standing above. let the berry-producing uprights to
This is done just at the start of the take over. In cold winter areas, cover
growing season. The runners can the bed with a heavy mulch or row
be cut back to keep an orderly bed, cover. Wine recipes may call for 23
but never prune the fruit-producing pounds of cranberries.
uprights. BEST USED IN: red wine, especially
HARVEST: about 1 pound per every sweetwine. Also a good addition
5 square feet within seven years. tocider.
Cranberries are harmed by winter

Dandelion
BOTANICAL NAME: Taraxacum officinale With a pair of scissors, trim the
PLANT TYPE: tap-rooted, herbaceous yellow blossoms from the green calyx
perennial and discard the calyx, which adds
USDA ZONES: pretty much everywhere bitterness to the wine. Plan to pick
between the arctic and the tropics. enough flowers to loosely fill a gallon
HEIGHT OF FLOWERS: 218 inches container, but check your recipe and
SOIL: any remember that youll need extra to
LIGHT: full sun to light shade make up for the discarded calyx.
WATER: medium to dry NOTES: Its not news that dandelions
GROWTH HABIT: ground-hugging basal self-pollinate. The flowers are usually
rosette boiled or covered in boiling water and
PROPAGATE BY: seed-spacing, 1 foot left to steep for two to four days. The
apart to all sides resulting infusion is then fermented.
MONTHS TO BEARING: 24 A quart of dandelion flowers makes
PRUNING: Pull off seedheads (dande- about a gallon of wine.
lion clocks) to prevent invasive BEST USED IN: a standard, easy, country
reseeding. white wine: rich and medium sweet.
HARVEST: Collect dandelion flowers on All parts of the plant are edible,
a sunny spring day (March through but only the flowers are used in
May) when the flowers are fully open. fermenting.

Elderberry/Elderflowers
BOTANICAL NAME: Sambucus species;
most common for fruit, S. nigra
PLANT TYPE: shrub
USDA ZONES: 39
HEIGHT: 615 feet. Taller varieties can
be pruned to 8 feet.
SOIL: slightly moist. Elderberries resent
dry soil
LIGHT: full sun or part shade in
warmerareas
WATER: regular. Must have water during
driest part of summer.
GROWTH HABIT: sprawling bushes
PROPAGATE BY: seed and root suckers
SPACING: 68 feet
YEARS TO BEARING: two (three to four
PRUNING: Prune before growth starts
when plants are four years old to
remove oldest branches.
HARVEST: 810 pounds of fruit per plant.
Pick only ripe elderberries; unripe
berries are mildly toxic. Elderflowers cultivars. The bushes are very cold
should be picked when creamy white hardy. Dont use the fruit of wild red
with flowers that are open, but havent elderberries, which are toxic. Birds
begun to dry. Pick flowers at the end love elderberries too. Elderberry
of a warm day for maximum flavor. bushes are attractive in the land-
Elderflowers are too delicate to be scape. For 5 gallons of wine use
washed, so simply shake out insects about 10 pounds of elderberries.
and place flowers outside in a shady BEST USED IN: a commonly produced,
spot for up to an hour to allow any fine red wine. The flowers also make
remaining insects to escape. a delicate white wine, sparkling or
NOTES: Elderberries produce better with not. The berry juice is a good addi-
cross-pollination; plant two S. nigra tion to cider and soft drinks.

Gooseberry
BOTANICAL NAME: Ribes uva-crispa can be kept in the refrigerator for
(European); Ribes hirtellum twoweeks.
(American) NOTES: Gooseberry plants are illegal to
PLANT TYPE: bush grow in some areas because they host
USDA ZONES: 38, best in Zones 5 blister rust that kills American white
andcolder pines; check restrictions in your area
HEIGHT: 35 feet and buy only rust-resistant varieties.
SOIL: average, loamy garden soil. Gooseberries are self-fertile. They are
Willtolerate heavy or sandy soils if very cold hardy and will not per-
well-drained. form well in warm-winter climates.
LIGHT: full sun or part shade in Gooseberry plants are productive
warmerareas for about fifteen to thirty years. Be
WATER: regular. Water during driest aware: gooseberries have thorns, but
part of summer. some varieties are spinier than oth-
GROWTH HABIT: straggling bush with ers. For 5 gallons of wine use about 11
upright canes. Some varieties are pounds of gooseberries.
more spreading. BEST USED IN: white table wine and
PROPAGATE BY: cuttings champagne
SPACING: 35 feet
YEARS TO BEARING: two (three to four
PRUNING: Prune before growth starts
when plants are four years old to
remove oldest branches. Then remove
canes more than two years old each
year during dormant season, leaving
six to eight canes.
HARVEST: 510 pounds per plant. Pick
when fully ripe for best flavor; berries
are soft when ripe. Wear a leather
glove on one hand to hold canes of
thorny gooseberries and pick care-
fully with the free hand. The berries
124 | CHAPTER 4

Kiwi
BOTANICAL NAME: Actinida species
PLANT TYPE: vine
USDA ZONES: 59 (Actinidia arguta,
arguta hardy kiwi); 39 (A. kolo-
mitka, Kolomitka kiwi); 79 (A. deli-
ciosa, fuzzy kiwi)
HEIGHT: spreading vines whose height
depends on the height of the sup- October and are picked after the
port. Except for the less vigorous first frost. A mature female arguta
Kolomitkas (which trail to 15 feet), or fuzzy kiwi plant will produce at
kiwis will spread up to 30 feet. least 25 pounds of fruit. Fuzzy kiwis
SOIL: well-drained are picked just as the fruit begins
LIGHT: full sun with wind protection. to soften and are ripened off the
Kolomikta kiwis require partial tree (often in egg cartons). Arguta
shade. is picked when the fruit begins
WATER: regular during the growing to soften. Kolomitka fruit is a bit
season smaller than arguta and harvest is
GROWTH HABIT: vigorous vines the same.
PROPAGATE BY: cuttings and grafting NOTES: All species of kiwi need a female
SPACING: 1520 feet for fuzzy and and a male to set fruit. Kiwis live to
arguta kiwis; 8 feet for Kolomitka fifty years and longer. Vigorous kiwis
kiwis require a very strong trellis, 78 feet
YEARS TO BEARING: three to five tall. Dont fertilize the first year;
PRUNING: At planting, the vines afterward, fast-growing kiwis need
shouldbe cut back to four to five annual applications of high-nitrogen
buds. As these grow, select one to fertilizer. When making wine, kiwis
bethe main stem; stake it to the may be peeled or not, depending
top of the trellis. On mature female on your sensibilities, before they go
plants, remove shoots that have into the primary fermenter. Nine to
fruited for three years. Shorten ten pounds of kiwi fruit makes a
new shoots to three to six buds 5-gallon batch of wine.
beyond where fruit last grew. Prune BEST USED IN: crisp, dry white wine.
whendormant. The wine often retains a hint of kiwi
HARVEST: Kolomitka kiwis ripen flavor. Strawberry-kiwi is a popular
in August. Other kiwis ripen in combination.

Loganberry
BOTANICAL NAME: Rubus loganobaccus YEARS TO BEARING: two
PLANT TYPE: biennial bramble HARVEST: 14 quarts per plant; ripens
USDA ZONES: 510 mid- to late-summer
HEIGHT: Loganberries trail 810 feet NOTES: Loganberries are a cross of red
without pruning. Canes should be raspberry and either blackberry
trimmed to 56 feet. or the native Pacific dewberry.
SOIL: deep, well-drained, slightly acid. Loganberry canes should be
Mulch is beneficial. If soil is heavy, trainedonto a trellis. Prune new
plant in raised beds. canes to 5 feet in the dormant
LIGHT: full sun season. Remove canes that have
WATER: regular through the growing fruited when the harvest is done, or
season in fall or winter. Remove diseased
GROWTH HABIT: trailing. Perennial roots or weak canes and those growing
bear biennial canes. One cultivar is outside the designated bed. Thin the
thornless. remaining canes to the best five to
SPACING: rows 6 feet apart; plants 23 twelve canes. Loganberries retain
feet apart within rows their cores when picked. Twelve
PROPAGATE BY: canes that sprout from pounds of loganberries make a
the roots. Buy certified disease-free 5gallon batch
plants; those from a friends garden BEST USED IN: full-bodied red wine and
may carry disease. sweet dessert wines

Peach
BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus persica
PLANT TYPE: tree
USDA ZONES: 59 peach blossoms
HEIGHT: 1220 feet. Genetic and grafted
dwarfs grow to 57 feet. Properly for five to six days. Dont wash the
pruned standard peaches are kept at fruit until youre ready to cut it for
1012 feet. the fermenter. Remove pits before fer-
SOIL: well-drained, light, sandy soil menting as a cracked pit will make
that warms up quickly the wine bitter.
LIGHT: full sun NOTES: Peaches need a long growing
WATER: regular during fruit season, mild winters, and 600 to
development 900 chill hours below 45 degrees
GROWTH HABIT: small tree Fahrenheit. Peach trees are produc-
PROPAGATE BY: grafting tive for fifteen to twenty years. Most
SPACING: standard peaches, 1820 feet; are self-fertile but will set more fruit
dwarf 78 feet with another peach close by. Use
YEARS TO BEARING: two to four little or no fertilizer to discourage
PRUNING: Peach trees require heavy overly vigorous growth. These trees
pruning to produce well. Old wood is are susceptible to peach leaf curl, so
pruned away to encourage the new choose resistant varieties or commit
growth on which the fruit grows. to spraying lime sulfur at bud-break
Prune lightly for the first five years to in late December or early January,
encourage fruiting; switch to heavier and again three weeks later. Dwarf
pruning once trees begin to bear. peaches are good candidates for
Fruiting spurs bear for about four containers; if stored under cover
years, at which time they should be (with sun, but protected from rain,
removed. as in an open, south-facing garage)
THINNING AND HARVEST: 30 to 50 pounds from the onset of dormancy until the
of fruit for a standard-sized peach. blossoms are spent, they will remain
Thin clusters to 6 inches apart, one disease-free and can be moved to
fruit per cluster, in mid-spring when a sunny location for summer. For 5
the embryonic fruit is no bigger gallons of wine use about 15 pounds
than a nickel. Pick when fully ripe. of peaches.
Leave stems on. Store peaches on the BEST USED IN: dry or off-dry white table
kitchen counter for three to four days wine. Also good for brandy. When fer-
or in the refrigerator in a plastic bag menting, peaches need yeast nutrients.

ge:126 (Text) 06-AC74011 Dtp:VIVIAN Page:127
Plum
BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus domestica NOTES: Many plums need a pollinizer
(European plums); Prunus salicina planted within 40 feet. Japanese
(Japanese plums) plums are very early blooming
PLANT TYPE: small trees and may be affected by late frosts.
USDA ZONES: 59 (European); 69 Japanese plums are better in
(Japanese); 38 (hardy hybrids) warmer climates; European plums
HEIGHT: 1520 feet. Plum trees can are better for colder climates.
be pruned to 1015 feet, especially European plums dont require much
those on semi-dwarfing rootstocks. pruning when mature. Japanese
SOIL: European plums can grow in plums are bushier and require the
heavy soil. Japanese plums do better branches to be thinned annually.
on lighter, loamy soil. Both prefer Semi-dwarfing rootstocks keep trees
a slightly acidic situation and good only slightly more compact than a
drainage. standard-sized tree. Hardy plums
LIGHT: full sun that are crosses of Japanese and
WATER: moderate yet consistent during wild American plums are avail-
the growing season. Certain root- able for immoderately cold, windy
stocks are tolerant of wet soils. climates. For 5 gallons of wine use
GROWTH HABIT: upright (European about 16 pounds of plums.
plums) or spreading (Japanese BEST USED IN: sherries, ports, cordials,
plums) and liqueurs. Some plums result in
PROPAGATE BY: grafting wines with a spicy taste or odd bite.
SPACING: 1520 feet Plums make a good dry table wine or
YEARS TO BEARING: four slightly sweet wine. In Britain, plum
THINNING AND HARVEST: Thin the fruit jerkum is cider made of plums.
of Japanese plums to 5 inches apart Plum pits may go in the fermenter
when they are no bigger than a dime. as long as they arent crushed or
European plums rarely need fruit broken, which can cause bitterness
thinning. Expect26 bushels of fruit in the wine.
per tree.
128 | CHAPTER 4

Plum (Early Gold) fruit

Red Raspberry
BOTANICAL NAME: Rubus idaeus Red raspberries come in single-crop
PLANT TYPE: biennial bramble. One summer-bearers and two-crop
variety is thornless. fall-bearers.
USDA ZONES: 38 SPACING: rows 6 feet apart; plants 23
HEIGHT: Raspberries trail 810 feet feet apart within rows
without pruning. Canes should be PROPAGATE BY: canes that sprout from
trimmed to 56 feet the roots. Buy certified disease-free
SOIL: deep, well-drained, slightly acid. plants. Plants from a friends garden
Mulch is beneficial. If soil is heavy, may carry disease.
plant in raised beds. YEARS TO BEARING: two
LIGHT: full sun HARVEST: 14 quarts per plant
WATER: regular through the growing NOTES: Raspberry canes should be
season trained onto a trellis. Prune new
GROWTH HABIT: upright/arching. canes to 5 feet in the dormant sea-
Perennial roots bear biennial canes. son. For single-crop varieties, remove
canes that have fruited when the
harvest is done, or in fall or winter.
For two-crop varieties, cut last years
canes down by one-third; remove
them entirely after the second-year
crop. Or cut all canes of two-crop
varieties to the ground before spring
growth begins for a single late-sum-
mer crop. For both types, remove
diseased or weak canes and those
growing outside the designated bed.
Thin the remaining canes to the best
five to twelve canes. Raspberry plants
are at their peak of productivity for
fifteen years. For 5 gallons of wine use
about 15 pounds of raspberries.
BEST USED IN: red wine, especially sweet
wine
Thornless Brazilian raspberry plants work great

in containers.

Rhubarb
BOTANICAL NAME: Rheum rhabarbarum
PLANT TYPE: herbaceous perennial
USDA ZONES: 39
HEIGHT: 34 feet
SOIL: fertile, well-drained, high in
organic matteralthough rhubarb
will grow in most soils
LIGHT: full sun. Partial shade in
warmest climates.
WATER: Keep soil barely moist in
summer.
GROWTH HABIT: crowns consisting of
fleshy rhizomes and buds from which
edible petioles (stalks) grow
PROPAGATE BY: division
SPACING: 4 feet
YEARS TO BEARING: Wait until the third
year to harvest stalks.
PRUNING: no pruning needed
HARVEST: Pull stalks sideways and
upward. Remove when the stalk
snaps loose from the base. Dont
cut, which leaves behind a stub that
can rot.
NOTES: Only the stalks should be
fermented (the leaves are toxic).
Rhubarb needs some winter chill; it
does not do well where summers are
hot. Fertilize and keep watered after BEST USED IN: fruity, mild ros table
harvest. A rhubarb plant remains wine or sweet wine. Rhubarb wine
productive for eight to fifteen years. benefits from a years maturation.
Twelve pounds of rhubarb make a Good blended with strawberry and
5-gallon batch of wine. loganberry.

Strawberry
BOTANICAL NAME: Fragaria ananassa Runners are long stems that run
(includes June bearers and day along the ground and produce new
neutrals) plants. The new plants root into the
PLANT TYPE: perennial groundcover soil, grow, and then send out run-
USDA ZONES: 410 (depends on variety); ners of their own.
alpine strawberries (Fragaria vesca) PROPAGATE BY: new plants that grow
are exceptionally winter hardy. at the end of runners; seed. June-
HEIGHT: 68 inches bearing plants should be replaced
SOIL: rich, well-drained, acidic, high in every three to five years, day neu-
organic matter trals every two to three years. They
LIGHT: full sun are replaced either by new, rooted
WATER: regular, especially in summer. plants from the runners or from
1 inch of water a week, more in hot newly purchased, certified dis-
weather. Mulch to keep soil cool and ease-free plants.
retain water. PLANTING: Strawberry plantings are
GROWTH HABIT: crowns from which managed in two different wayswith
leaves, flower stalks, and (usu- runners or without. Runners can
ally) above-ground runners grow. either be put to work filling empty
strawberry blossoms

spaces, or they can be removed
entirely. June bearers are commonly
allowed to grow runners, which are
carefully placed to fill in the bed for a
solid mat of strawberries. This results
in larger crops of smaller berries.
Day neutrals are more likely to be
kept runner-free, which redirects the
plants energy into larger plants and
berries. In early spring, plant your
strawberries with the papery growth
below the leaf petioles showing, but
with all the roots under the soil.
SPACING: 1 foot
YEARS TO BEARING: two
PRUNING: Pick off all flowers from
June bearers the first year. For day
neutrals, pick off the first flush of
flowers.
HARVEST: to 1 pound per plant
NOTES: Strawberries come in two bearers once when growth begins
basic types, June bearers and day and again after fruiting. Feed day
neutrals. June bearers deliver big neutrals small amounts of com-
berries in June and July. Day neu- plete organic fertilizer once a month
trals produce a similar-sized crop, throughout the growing season.
only spread out from May or June Strawberries dont compete well
through first frost. The berries are with other plants, so keep the beds
often not as large as those of June scrupulously weed free. Strawberries
bearers. Most strawberries are arent technically berries; theyre
self-fertile. In colder areas, the beds aggregate accessory fruits. Now
are covered with straw in late fall to you know. For 5 gallons of wine use
protect from winter cold; the straw about 16 pounds of strawberries.
is pulled off the plants and used as BEST USED IN: wine, especially sweet
a mulch in early spring. Feed June wine

Sweet Woodruff
BOTANICAL NAME: Galium odoratum NOTES: Sweet woodruff can
PLANT TYPE: spreading groundcover spreadquickly through a shady
USDA ZONES: 48 areawithrich soil and regular
HEIGHT: 1 foot moisture.
SOIL: prefers rich soil, but grows in any BEST USED IN: May wine, in which a
moist soil within its zone. dozen sprigs of sweet woodruff
LIGHT: shade areinfused in a bottle of Riesling
WATER: keep moist or other young white wine (a
GROWTH HABIT: spreads by youngwine is one meant to be
undergroundstolons consumed immediately, not aged).
PROPAGATE BY: division The wine is then placed in the
SPACING: 3 inches refrigerator for ten hours to a full
YEARS TO BEARING: whenever the plant is day. The beverage is served with
large enough to harvest fresh fruit, often strawberries.
PRUNING: can be trimmed during Sugar,champagne, or soda water
dormancy may also be added. The woodruff
HARVEST: snip off fresh new growth in brings sweet, spicy overtones to
April and May thewine.


CHAPTER 5
Cider
The Lowdown on Apples and

Other Cider-Friendly Fruits
A
s American as apple pie? Think again. When the colonists planted their
orchards they had something else in mind. Two hundred years later,
when Johnny Appleseed wandered the wilderness patting pips into
feral soil, it wasnt so that hardscrabble homesteaders could enjoy a
nice dessert. No, our forebears werent obsessed with flawless red fruit that could be eaten
out of hand; they preferred their apples juiced and fermented. On the frontier, apple trees
meant hard cider, the true spirit of the New World. Forget the pastry; the real measure of
patriotic purity is as American as apple cider.
Fruit that could be cooked or eaten branches of the resilient apple tree. Apples
fresh was certainly a bonus, but what set- have an amazing adaptive advantage: they
tlers really needed was a drink both tasty produce wildly variable offspring. The
and dysentery-free. Water could carry a trees may be tall or shrubby. Leaf shapes
host of nasty microbes, from E. coli to chol- and colors vary, as do branching habits.
era and typhoid. The ethyl alcohol of fer- And the fruit! Sexually propagated apple
mented cider keeps these bowel-destroying fruit appears in a seemingly endless array
pathogens at bay. Other low-alcohol options of colors, sizes, textures, time of ripening,
such as beer and wine were reluctant to andof courseflavors. We may hope our
adapt to the new continent. European seed-grown tree will offer up sweet apples
grapes, hops, and barley sulked and suc- with a juicy crunch, but the new fruit are
cumbed to unfamiliar pests and diseases. just as likely to be punky, puckery, or taste
Wine made from indigenous grapes was the way old socks smell.
simply unpalatable. This genetic scramble makes breeding
Fortunately, parched sodbusters found for specific traits a challenge for pomol-
the cure to their thirst hanging from the ogists, but it gives the genus a distinct
CIDER | 137

advantage in conquering new lands. If down went the apple trees, literally and fig-
enough seeds are allowed to sprout and uratively. The apple had become forbidden
grow, a few are likely to possess character- fruit. As cider fell out of favor, orchards
istics that will allow them put down roots were destroyed and generations of apple
in their new home. A hybrid may have a tol- diversity were lost. Eventually, in a mas-
erance for sub-zero winters, survive damp sive re-marketing, the apple emerged with
soil, or have a natural resistance to local a sober new image as a nutritious fresh
pests. Apples seem limited only by the need treat and dessertingredient.
for a relatively temperate climate. Although Now cider is back. From 2009 to 2013,
many wildlings will produce spitters US sales of hard cider increased fifty-four
fruit unfit for eatingthis astringency is percent annually. Whats old is new again
a bonus when it comes to cider. Once the as we come to re-appreciate fermented
apple had settled in North American soil, apple juice as a drink not only delicious
it began to pursue its own manifest des- in its own right, but as a natural accom-
tiny, possibly interbreeding with native paniment to food of any ethnicity. Could
crabapples, branching out apace with the Americas thirst for cider eventually out-
countryitself. strip that of the Brits, who have the highest
Throughout the seventeenth and per capita consumption of the drink and
eighteenth centuries, cider was a staple turn nearly half of their commercial apples
of American life. Everyone, it seems, con- into cider? Craft cideries are springing
sumed the mildly alcoholic beverage, even up across America faster than apple pip-
childrenwho were offered a watered- pins on the frontier. And the trend has not
down version known as ciderkin. Hundreds gone unnoticed by hobbyists. Cidermaking
of thousands of gallons were produced lends itself to home production; after all,
annually. Not only was fermented cider an for centuries it was the stuff of peasants
important part of the pioneer diet, it was and farmers who didnt have the luxury of
a means of preserving a valuable harvest. fancy equipment or free time.
For two hundred years, Americans and Freshly pressed, raw apple juice is
apples enjoyed a mutually beneficial coex- known as sweet cider in the states. If not
istence: the humans got a healthy drink chilled or pasteurized, the amber liq-
that delivered a gentle buzz; the trees got a uid quickly begins to ferment into hard
golden era of diversity and the chance to col- cider. The term hard cider is a modern
onize a continent. Then, in the late 1800s, American one. Before the accessibility
along came Carrie Nation, the Temperance of refrigeration to slow the fermentation
Movement, and eventually Prohibition, and process, virtually any cider more than a
138 | CHAPTER 5

few hours old was already hardening. In or worked with a local orchard in the past,
European pubs and cafs the drink has you may already be familiar with the fol-
always been known simply as ciderthe lowing. Nevertheless, lets sprint through
alcohol is implied. This alcohol comes as the basic life of a cider before we get back
a waste product of yeasts that naturally into the garden!
accompany apples. So anxious are these Cidermaking begins with the col-
yeasts to gobble up the liberated sugars of lection of apples in the fall. Use only ripe
juiced apples that they are often capable apples. The riper the apple, the more sugar
of fermenting all on their own, although is available for a full-bodied beverage. If
cidermakers may choose to replace them the apple seeds are nearly black and the
with commercial yeasts for better control stem snaps when the fruit is lifted, it is
or to achieve a specific effect. Yeasts will ready to be picked. Take care with wind-
consume all available glucose and then falls. If they arent split or heavily bruised
die from lack of further nutrition and from you may choose to use them; however,
their own byproduct, ethyl alcohol. The although windfalls have long been part of
sweetest fruit makes the strongest drink, cider, there is a small risk they may pick up
because the yeast has more to work with. botulism toxin from sitting on the ground.
Most sweet cider contains just enough Dont allow the fruit to lie longer than nec-
natural sugar to result in a spirit of three essaryespecially on damp groundas
to six percent alcohol, making it a mildly it can acquire this and other unwanted
alcoholic beverage that the ploughman bacteria and mold. As you harvest your
of yesteryear could enjoy with his lunch fruit, keep in mind that a bushel of apples
while keeping his furrows straight in will yield 2 to 3 gallons of cider. A bushel
theafternoon. weighs 48 pounds and has approximately
126 medium-sized apples.
CIDERMAKING BASICS: Scabby, unsightly apples that are oth-
COLLECT, CHOP, GRIND, erwise sound are born cider apples. Proper
FERMENT apple etiquette dictates that as the fruit is
If youre considering adding fruit trees to gathered it be piled into a low mound tra-
your garden but wonder whether cider- ditionally known as a tump. Tumps are
making might be for you, read on. If you stacked on a tarp or a concrete or wood
already know how to make cider, but have surface that is reasonably dry and keeps
never had to process fresh apples on your the fruit off the ground. Add more fruit
own, this section may be useful as well. If, as it becomes available, until the harvest
however, you have attended a club pressing ends or you have enough to stop picking
CIDER | 139

and start pressing. Turn the pile occasion- Allow the apples to sit for up to ten
ally and discard any fruit showing brown, days to mellow. This softens them for
mushy spots. When it comes to mold and grinding and encourages sugar develop-
botrytis fungus, one rotten apple really ment. The next step is an important one:
can ruin a whole tump. you must wash the apples to remove bac-
Talk Cider like a Pro

Biennial: normal-sized harvests every other year alternate with small-to-
nonexistent harvests
Bittersharp apples: high in tannin, high in acid
Bittersweet apples: high in tannin, high in sugar
Graft: a scion (shoot) inserted into a rootstock of a plant of the same species
to create a clone of the scion. This is the most common way of propagating
named apple cultivars.
Lees: sediment in fermenting that settles to the bottom of the fermentation
vessel. The lees are usually left behind by one or more rackings
Pip: an apple seed
Pippin: a young apple seedling
Pomace: the pulpy result of mashing, grinding, or milling apples in preparation
for pressing
Pomologist: a scientist who studies fruit
Racking: moving a fermented beverage from one container to another
using a siphonnot pumping, not pouring. This clarifies the final product by
separating the liquid from the sediment.
140 | CHAPTER 5

teria and unwanted strains of yeast on yard and fill it halfway with water. Roll the
the skin. Nothing but water is required, apples in and give them a thorough swish
althoughif you likeyou can purchase a around. As they bob in their bath, give
commercial fruit-and-vegetable wash from each apple a brisk rub before moving it to
the local grocery. Haul a big tub into the the cutting table. If the volume of apples is
Rootstock: the root system and a portion of stem or trunk that makes up the
lower part of a grafted plant
Scion: a shoot or bud that makes up the top portion of a graft all growth above
the graft should come from the scionwood. More than one variety of apple
scion can be grafted onto a single rootstock.
Scratter or scratting mill: a machine that crushes apples or pears in
preparation for pressing
Scrumpy: a term applied to high-alcohol cider or perry that can mean
1) an inferior product, 2) a high quality product, 3) a regional product,
4) how you feel after drinking too much high-test cider or perry
Sharp cider apples: low in tannin, high in acid. May also be good culinary
apples.
Spur: a short branch specialized for producing fruit
Sweet cider apples: low in tannin, high in acid. May also be good
eating apples.
Tump: a low mound of apples being collected for pressing
CIDER | 141

large, change the water after every batch forms, from the traditional screw press
or two. Discard rotten or severely bruised to a car jack. The difference in presses
fruit. For every 20 pounds of apples youll comes down to the way the apple pulp is
gain about 5 quarts of cider. contained and how pressure is applied.
On the cutting table, remove brown The wood-slatted tub is perhaps the most
spots and quarter the fruit in preparation iconic image of apple pressing. In this form
for pulverizing. Dont remove the cores of press, the pomace is placed into a cloth
and pips, as they add flavor. Pulverizing or polyester net bag before being snugged
can take the form of mashing, grinding, into the tub and juiced. Alternately, apple
or milling the fruit so that the press can presses can be frames in which racks are
wring out every sweet drop of future gold- stacked and squeezed. To hold the pomace
in-a-glass. The pulverizing can be accom- between racks, you will need to wrap each
plished with a hand-cranked or electric layer into the aforementioned polyester
scratting mill, or via a very low-tech plastic cloth or mesh.
bucket and pole. The pole or piece of lum- Apple presses compress the fruit with
ber should be untreated, approximately either a screw mechanism, ratchet, or
5 feet tall, and have a 4- to 5-inch butt. by hydraulics. Pressing cant be rushed;
It will act as a pestle to pound the apples whenever the output slows to a trickle, the
into what others call pulp, but you, the pressure is increased until the flow stops
cidermaker, will call pomace. Be sure to altogether. As soon as the juice hits the
set the bucket on solid ground so that the air, it will darken due to the oxidization
pole doesnt burst through the bottom. A of the tannins that bring dryness to hard
stainless steel bucket may be used, but cider. But dont fret; fermentation usually
any other metal will react with the acids in restores its golden tone. Taste the juice fre-
apples and give the cider an off taste and quently and, if several varieties of apples
color. (Stainless steel is the only metal that are available, adjust the mix to your liking
should come in contact with your apples before you proceed with fermentation.
and juice from here on out.) Youll know the Fermentation can be as simple as
crushing is done when the pomace is the putting the fresh juice in an airtight car-
consistency of wet oatmeal and your frus- boy and letting nature take its course.
trations are gone. However, nature is unpredictable. The wild
Pressing is a bit less primal. In order yeasts that haunt apples can yield a cider
to squeeze out the essence of the fruit, you that is less than tasty. Worse, certain bac-
need a machine. Presses can take several teria can turn the cider to vinegar. Cider
142 | CHAPTER 5

can be made at home in basically the same acid or other acidity-raising compound and
way as our ancestors did with nothing but follow directions. The test for tannins is
nature and personal taste as a guide. The less scientific: Take a taste. If your mouth
question isdo you feel lucky? puckers to the point you need a straw to
Established cideries build up resident eat, there is too much tannin, which can
yeasts in their very bones; racks, cloths, be adjusted with gelatin finings. If, on the
vats, even walls eventually come to harbor other hand, the cider is about as exciting as
cider-making yeasts that give the house water, it would benefit from powdered grape
brands their distinctive flavors. Theres no tannin (and next time, throw some cider or
guarantee at the start, however, of what crabapples into the press). Once again, your
that flavor will be. Given the unpredict- homebrew proprietor is your best friend.
ability of wild yeasts, and the relative rar- With the airlock firmly in place, your
ity of prime cider-making Saccharomyces incipient cider can now bubble along cheer-
yeasts, many beginning ciderers rely on fully. The recommended fermentation tem-
commercial yeasts such as champagne, perature is 60 degrees Fahrenheitgive or
white wine, or English cider yeasts. The take five degreesalthough slightly lower
fresh juice can be treated with sulfite (in temperatures only temporarily slow the
the form of a Campden tablet) to kill or process and may even improve the quality.
weaken the existing yeasts and harmful The higher the temperature, the faster the
bacteria twenty-four hours before the cul- fermentation, but too fast is too fast; at tem-
tured yeast is added. In cider-makings peratures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit the
simplest form, pour the juice into a large cider risks acquiring an unpleasant chemi-
jug with a narrow neck such as a glass car- cal taste. Better too slow than too fast; how-
boy or a polyethylene container. Add the ever, very low temperatures for an extended
commercial yeast of your choice, and cork period can lead to fermentation stopping
the jug with a fermentation airlock. completely and the cider starting to spoil.
Before fermentation begins, serious See those dregs at the bottom of your
cidermakers check the pH and tannin lev- fermentation vessel? That sediment, known
els of the juice. Homebrew shops sell pH as the lees, is made up of dead yeast and
strips to test for an appropriate level of other impurities. Cider is first racked off
acid, between 3.2 and 3.8. If the reading is or separated from its lees when the initial
high, add potassium carbonate or another fermentation is complete. Racking off clears
base recommended by the brew shop. If the the liquid and avoids an off taste from the
reading is low, add a small amount of malic dying yeast. The first fermentation may
CIDER | 143

last from weeks to months (temperature CIDER APPLES
dependent). When the steady bubbling in Cider is, of course, all about apples. Yeasts
the airlock has slowed to a trickle, the cider and additives have an effect on the out-
is ready to be racked off and to begin its come of a given batch, but apples are the
second fermentation. The best method for real flavor maker. Apples contribute four
racking off is through simple gravity-based basic characteristics to cider and are
siphoningnot pouring or pumping that classified according to these qualities as
can stir up the very sediment you are try- sharp, sweet, bittersharp, or bittersweet.
ing to leave behind. The carboy full of cider Popular proportions are one part sweet,
sits atop a table; the siphoning tube leads one part bittersweet, and one part sharp
from it to another, empty, carboy on the or bittersharp apples. There are hundreds
floor below. Once the racking is complete, of varieties of cider apples that offer a wide
the cider is ready for the second stage of variety of tantalizing flavors, complex aro-
fermentation. The second fermentation is matics, and tangy tannins. Cider makers
a spontaneous process that converts malic carefully mix the juices for a drink that
acid to lactic acid and carbon dioxide, makes their mouths water. As you become
resulting in a smoother glass. a more experienced ciderer, you will dis-
Allowed to ferment for about six cover your own personal ratios.
months, sweet apple juice is transformed To create the absolute best in cider
into a dry beverage with about half the alchemy, choose your apple varieties
proof of wine. Fermented apples develop thoughtfully. Of all the tree fruits that can
acids and tannins that result in a final be grown in temperate backyards, apples
product which has a taste as independent are the most gratifying. Their only silver
of apples as wines is of grapes. Depending bullet is warm climates that dont give the
on the apples used and the cidermakers apples at least 500 to 1,000 hours of tem-
skill, cider can manifest as dark or light, peratures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit.
astringent or slightly sweet. It may be nat- Even then, the fruit may suffer mainly in
urally or artificially effervescent, or still as color. At the other extreme, apples resent
the eye of a hurricane. It may taste citrusy, bitterly frigid winters, so are grown on cer-
smoky, musty, or like molasses. The aver- tain hardy rootstocks in the upper Midwest
age five-percent alcohol content of cider can and Alaska.
be raised if additional sweetener is added This doesnt mean that every apple
to the fermenting juice to keep the yeast cultivar grows equally well in every region.
alive and digesting. However, if you boost For instance, Coxs Orange Pippin does not
the alcohol to between eight and fourteen perform well in climates where summer
percent, your cider is now technically wine. highs are consistently above 86 degrees
144 | CHAPTER 5

Fahrenheit. Braeburn drops its fruit in hot
weather. Granny Smithas is appropriate
for a grannydoesnt like the cold. Before
choosing your varieties, check with local
nurseries, orchardists, and your County
Extension service for recommendations.
Now comes the tricky part. A hundred
years ago, cider fell out of favor. From that
point on apple varieties were selected for
fruit that could be eaten fresh or cooked,
not for fermenting. Although cider is mak-
ing a precipitous comeback, cider trees are
much less well-known and available than
those for culinary uses. The best selection
is by mail-order through specialty nurs-
eries. Local extension agents may not be
familiar with cider cultivars. If you intend to
take your cider-making seriously and plant
a Brown Snout or Roxbury Russet, you may
be the first in your area to write a review.
Cider quality inevitably depends on
the type of apple used. Culinary apples
canand commonly areused for cider.
Apples are one of the most familiar and versatile fruits to grow.
However, making cider without any cider
apples is like making pickles without dill;
its perfectly possible, but not what nature place in blends, or if its one of the few that
intended. Try to include at least some true can stand alone as a single-variety cider.
cider varieties or even crabapples. The Most cider apples are no ones first
high tannin level of traditional cider apples choice for eating raw. They are often tart,
improves the flavor, body, and complexity marred, and misshapen. To the human
of the product. A mix of cider and dessert palate, cider apples often taste unripe.
apples provides a balance of tannins, acids, Their potential is realized only at decant-
sweetness, and aromatics, which results in ing. Identifying the best cider varieties is
a well-rounded beverage. All apples can be an impossible task. Favored cider cultivars
part of a fine cider; the key is in knowing the come and go with the fickleness of fash-
characteristics of each and recognizing its ion. Even more confusing, from nation to
CIDER | 145

nation and person to person there is no tion, its fruiting is unreliable. The harvest
consensus on what makes a perfect cider. may be large, or nearly nonexistent.
What is certain is that the very lack of tan- There are a few other apples with the
nins and potent acids that make modern required balance of tannin and acid to
apples so tasty is also what makes insipid stand alone as a single-variety cider. These
cider. Dessert apples can add sparkle and include Foxwhelp, Stoke Red, Golden
depth, but a quality cider demands at least Russet, Roxbury Russet, and Ribston
a bit of the cantankerous kick of otherwise Pippin. However, many fine varieties are
unappetizing apples. available that mix well with modern culi-
The tannin required for spunky cider nary apples. Although todays fresh-eat-
can come from vintage or vintage-quality ing apples taste sweet, this sweetness is
cider apples, or from crabapples. Crabapples often due to meager malic acid rather than
lack the complexity of their bigger cider an excess of sugars. Incorporating them
cousins but are bristling with astringency. with apples labeled sharp, bittersharp, or
Crabapples such as Dolgo and Evereste even bittersweet can be a recipe for a first-
are easy to grow, cold hardy, disease resis- rate cider.
tant, and beautiful in flower and fruit. Most
crabs grow to only 10 to 20 feet, thus fit- Rootstocks
ting nicely into ornamental gardens. The The roots that will support your tree are
fruit comes in shades of yellow, coral, and as important a consideration as the variety
red. Blossoms are white or pink, and the that grows atop them. Named apple vari-
foliage may be green or bronze. Crabapples eties are almost exclusively grafted onto
are also excellent pollinizers for other apple rootstocks (the exception being trees grown
trees. Before committing to a crab, be sure from cuttings, therefore on their own roots;
its a variety both hardy to your region and seed-grown trees are genetically unique
resistant to local diseases. from their parentsthus no longer a
If youre serious about cider, or know named variety). The rootstock determines
someone who is, one or more cider trees how big the tree will grow, how hardy it
can be a good investment. Kingston Black will be, and if it is particularly canny at
is celebrated as the finest vintage apple for surviving drought or damp. If possible,
single-variety cider. Its small, maroon fruit buy your plant from a local nursery that is
results in a spicy, full-bodied drink. On the familiar with local conditions. Depending
downside, the tree can be difficult to cul- on the rootstock, a cider apple can grow as
tivate. It is a somewhat weak grower and a dwarf (less than 9 feet), semi-dwarf (up to
is susceptible to scab and canker. In addi- 14 feet), or standard (15 feet or more).
146 | CHAPTER 5

Apple trees grown from seeds or cut- crops (about a bushel) on a tiny tree; how-
tingsnot grafted to specialized root- ever, because the same root system that
stockstend to grow to standard size. The stunts them also gives them a poor grip
amount of room you have for apple trees, on the ground, these Lilliputians generally
or the number of apple trees you desire, need permanent staking. While dream-
will affect your choice of rootstock. Each ing of growing your own apples, remem-
standard tree requires 20 feet apart from ber that two varieties (or more!) are better
its neighbors in all directions; large semi- than one for thorough pollination. Just be
dwarfs need 16 to 18 feet to each side, sure that at least two of them are listed as
smaller semi-dwarfs 12 to 14 feet, and pollinizers. Of course, existing apple trees
dwarf trees just 5 to 7 feet. Dwarf trees growing nearby can also provide the nec-
produce full-size apples and relatively large essary pollen.
Williams Pride apple flowers

Apple Varieties to Consider
Bramleys Seedling: sharp. Vigorous, Foxwhelp: bittersharp. Vintage. Can
hardy, heavy crops. Excellent culi- be used for a single-variety cider or
nary apple, as well as for cider. A fair blended. Ripens September.
keeper. Ripens October. Golden Russet: sweet. Aromatic. Can
Brown Snout: bittersweet. Self-fertile. be used for a single-variety cider or
Slow to produce fruit. Susceptible to blended. Can be eaten fresh. Ripens
fireblight. Ripens November. October to November.
Browns Apple: sharp. Vintage. Graniwinkle: sweet. Vigorous.
Scab resistant. Slow to produce fruit. Large crops. Usually mixed with
Ripens October. Harrison. Can be eaten fresh. Ripens
Campfield: bittersweet. Vigorous. September.
Single-variety cider or blend with Grimes Golden: sweet. Aromatic.
Harrison. Long keeper. Ripens Good culinary apple. Somewhat
October. resistant to fireblight and cedar
Cap of Liberty: bittersharp. Vintage. apple rust. Ripens September to
Best blended with a sweet or bitter- October.
sweet variety. Ripens September. Harrison: bittersharp. Vigorous.
Chisel Jersey: bittersweet. Vigorous. Large crops. Classically mixed with
Produces heavy crops. Ripens Graniwinkle. Stores into spring. Ripens
November. October.
Dabinett: bittersweet. Vintage. Harry Masters Jersey: bittersweet.
Weak grower. Good crops. Aromatic. Vintage. Good crops. Ripens October
Excellent blender. Ripens November. to November.
148 | CHAPTER 5

Kingston Black: bittersharp. Vintage. Roxbury Russet: sweet. Aromatic.
The classic cider apple. Can be used Possibly the oldest named apple vari-
for a single variety cider. Small tree ety in America. Can also be cooked or
that can be difficult to grow. Ripens eaten fresh. Good keeper. Good for
late September. cold climates. Ripens October.
Major: bittersweet. Vintage. Vigorous. Smiths Cider: sweet. Vigorous, bears
Ripens late September. early, fruits heavily. Can be eaten
Medaille DOr: bittersweet. Vigorous. fresh. Low chill requirement makes
Makes a high-alcohol cider. Ripens it a good choice for warmer areas.
September. Ripens November.
Michelin: bittersweet. Excellent Stoke Red: bittersharp. Vintage.
blender. Most widely grown cider Vigorous, fruits heavily, but slow to
apple in England. Ripens October to bear. Very resistant to scab. Ripens
November. late November.
Redstreak: bittersharp. Vintage. Sweet Coppin: pure sweet. Vintage.
Esteemed in England in the 1600s. Prone to mildew. Biennial bearer.
Ripens November. Ripens October to November.
Ribston Pippin: sharp. Aromatic. Tom Putt: sharp. Also culinary.
Hardy. Also a dessert apple. Can be Vigorous, bears early and reliably.
used for a single-variety cider. Ripens Some resistance to scab. Ripens late
September to October. August to September.
Yarlington Mill: bittersweet. Vintage.
Vigorous. High yields. Ripens October
to November.
CIDER | 149

PLANTING YOUR CIDER One thing is critical when deciding
ORCHARD where to site your orchard: Apple trees need
Now that youve selected your cider trees, sun. Too much shade aids disease and
its time to plant your orchard. Whether thwarts ripening. Set trees out of prevail-
youre planting one tree or many, plan your ing winds, which can disrupt pollination.
orchard proudly; youre part of the great Frost pockets can damage blossoms or fruit
American apple tradition, and the tree you in colder climates. Although apples prefer
plant todayif luck and health are on its to grow in rich loam, they can withstand
sidemay provide apples to generations of less-than-perfect soil. Dwarf trees, with
cider makers. their brittle rootstocks, benefit most from
good soil. Dig a hole deep enough that the
Liberty apples top of the rootball sits level with the top of
the ground or slightly lower where winters
are harsh. Fill the hole halfway up the root-
ball with native soil, and add water to the
very top. A thorough soaking is important
not just for hydration but for settling the soil
and filling air pockets. Once the water has
soaked in, finish filling the hole, leaving a
shallow depression with a raised outer lip
around the top of the sunken rootball to
act as a bowl for future soakings. For the
first two years after the tree is planted, dont
allow the soil around the rootball to dry out.
Neither should it be perpetually soggy.
The generally accepted time for set-
ting out fruit trees is in the dormant sea-
son, November through January, and
this is when bareroot trees are available.
However, container-grown trees can be
planted in any but the hottest weather.
Stake trees only if they are top-heavy or
feel loose. Plan to remove the stake as soon
as the tree is stable. Dwarf trees are an
exception to this rule: theyll need a per-
manent stake, so take the extra time and

expense to install an attractive stake that
will last for at least twenty years. Finally,
if mice, rabbits, or bucks rubbing velvet
from their antlers are a problem, wrap the
trunk in hardware cloth or fine-wire fenc-
ing from the ground to the first branch.
Deer love to eat apple leaves; in a few min-
utes a marauding doe can strip and kill (or
severely set back) a young tree. If there are
deer in your neighborhood (or other hun-
gry herbivores), enclose the entire tree in
a cage made of stock fencing until the sap-
ling is big enough to survive their grazing.
Grafting
Apple trees do not come true from seed.
Quite the opposite. An apple pippin, or
seed-grown tree, delights in asserting its
independence. It may be the next great Grafting apple trees
pomological sensation or, more likely, a
dud. What it will not be is a clone of its
parents. For that, an apple tree must be to four years. Virus-free, dwarfing apple
grafted. Grafting is a matter of attaching rootstocks such as the EMLA series or the
scionwood, or branches of the desired tree, diminutive Budagovsky 9 result in trees
to a rootstock, the roots and trunk of a 6 to 16 feet tall. Rootstocks such as these
donor applepossibly the very wildlings are readily available online and from mail-
just discussed. order fruit nurseries.
Grafting has several advantages. Grafting is not difficult. With good
For one, it allows the creation of dwarf instruction, a few inexpensive tools, and
and semi-dwarf trees. Full-size, stan- a half-dozen rootstocks, the novice has a
dard apple trees tend to grow to 20 feet decent chance of getting at least one healthy
or more, making harvesting their fruit a tree. With a little experience and access to
feat for monkeys. A standard-sized tree scionwood from donor trees, you can beget
grown from seed can take up to ten years an entire orchard for the price of the root-
to bear fruit, while a grafted dwarf or semi- stocksoften the price of a single nurs-
dwarf tree can yield fruit in as little as two ery tree. The home grafter can propagate
CIDER | 151

vintage varieties and even experiment with way. An upside-down scion is a dead scion.
multiple grafts on one stock, thereby creat- Line up the scion alongside the stock to
ing a custom combo tree. Imagine growing a find the point where they are as close to the
full range of cider varieties on a single tree! same dimension as possible. At this point,
Grafting is best done at the very end of cut a 7-inch piece of scionwood using prun-
the dormant season, just before or as the ing shears sterilized with rubbing alcohol.
buds begin to swell. Your most important Two inches at the butt end will be whittled
tool will be a very sharp knife. Specialty to attach to the stock. Likewise, trim the
grafting knives are not terribly expensive, stock 2 inches higher than where it will
but a finely honed pocketknife or utility join the scion to allow for whittling.
knife can also be used. Since youll be pull- Next, use the knife to cut matching
ing that sharp blade toward your fingers diagonal slices 1 inches long from both
with a good deal of force, leather gloves are the stock and scion. They must match up
a wise precaution. Wide rubber bands or like two parts of the same stick as this
special grafting bands that disintegrate is where the two will be joined. To hold
with age are needed to hold your newly them together securely, each piece gets a
inserted scion in the stock. Wax can also second cut, this one from the freshly cut
be used to seal certain types of grafts and end directly upward into the woody cen-
hold the parts in place. ter about inch deep. On the stock, this
A graft can be made from either a should be performed one-third of the way
branch or a bud inserted in an understock. up the fresh cut; on the scion, one-third
Both branch and bud grafts can be accom- of the way down. This creates a tongue
plished in several different ways. Apple trees on each end which, when slipped together,
can be propagated by any of these methods, gives the graft union added support. A cut
but one of the most common and straight- rubber band is then wound tightly round
forward is the whip-and-tongue graft. The and round the graft and tied off. Pot your
goal, as with all grafting, is to line up the new apple tree and keep it in a sheltered
cambium layer of the two pieces. Located spot such as a screened porch for the first
just beneath the bark, the cambium pro- few weeks to keep it from drying out. It can
duces the cells that transport water, sugar, then be moved outdoors to a sheltered gar-
and nutrients from the roots to the crown den spot, out of direct sun and strong wind
and through every living part of the plant. until the graft fuses. If the tree leafs out
Before cutting the scionwood, be sure robustly the following spring, its ready for
you know which end is up, and keep it that a permanent spot in the garden.
152 | CHAPTER 5

Pruning a rush of spring growth that often includes
Proper pruning will reward you with well- strongly vertical water sprouts from the
placed branches, good crops of large fruit, branches and suckers from the roots.
and easy harvesting. The goal is to create Suckers and water sprouts should be
a strong system of branches angled widely removed flush with their point of origin
to the trunk and spaced for optimum light pulled off along with their growth points,
and air circulation. Pruning can be done if it can be done without tearing the sur-
in winter and summer. Each season has rounding bark. Rub off any growth below
its own reasons and results. Winter prun- the graft as soon as it appears.
ing removes diseased or poorly placed Summer pruning has the opposite
branches; it concentrates the stored energy effect. Removing branches with leaves
of the tree in the remaining wood, causing removes energy, giving the tree less impetus
Pruning is essential for plant health.

to unbridled growth. August is not only Thinning
the month for trimming trees while trig- After two or more years of patient waiting,
gering fewer water sprouts, its also the watering, pruning, and protecting, at last
time to create spurs, beneficial stubby your apple is expectant with embryonic fruit.
branches whose sole purpose is to pro- Now, pinch them off. Well, not all of them.
duce fruit. Many varieties of apple will This important orchard chore is known as
form spurs where new growth coming thinning. Thinning picks up where nature
from the trunk or main branches is cut leaves off. Apple trees shed some of their
back to three leaves. Finally, badly placed immature fruit in early summer in a natural
or crossing branches and those with nar- process known as June drop. Homeowners
row crotch angles can be removed in sum- can finish the job by removing all but the
mer rather than winter; in the summer, healthiest little apple in every 5 or 6 inches.
its just more difficult to see the overall Thinning prevents small or weak branches
structure of the tree with all those leaves from breaking under heavy fruit loads. It
in the way. Prune newly planted trees also inhibits biennial bearing, a condition
lightly for their first few years. Forget where a tree over-produces one year, then
about fruit and concentrate on a strong takes the next year off. Although a thinned
structure, which will determine the shape tree produces less fruit, the remaining
of the tree all its life. Remove droopy and apples are larger and healthier. Thinning
weak branches. Retain strong branches should be done before the tiny apples grow
that emerge in an even spiral up the tree. larger than a nickel.
On semi-dwarfs and standards, slowly
remove lower branches as the tree grows Harvesting
to leave a comfortable space beneath the Youll know the cider days of summer (or
eventual mature tree for mowing oron fall) are here when the apples begin to tum-
standardsa tire swing. ble from the trees without the aid of wind,
Depending on the rootstock and the weather, or romping neighborhood chil-
cultivar, a new apple tree will begin to dren. As a test, lift an apple, putting pres-
set fruit in two to ten years. The number sure against the seam of the stem and, if
of years the tree will be productive also necessary, giving a gentle twist. Ripe fruit
varies. Shallow and noncompetitive dwarf will snap off in your hand; unripe fruit will
rootstocks may produce for only twenty resist. A properly picked apple will come
years, while standard trees on their away with the near end of the stem still
own roots can persevere for a hundred attached. Pack or stack the fruit gently;
years, as proved by old farmyards across a bruised apple is a bad apple, and we all
thenation. know what one of those can do.
154 | CHAPTER 5

Apple trees and their fruit are beset by THE PERFECT CIDER GARDEN
scab, powdery mildew, fireblight, canker, In spring, when the apple trees bloom, our
codling moth, and apple maggot. Thats the fancy turns lightly to thoughts of cider.
bad news. The good news is youre growing Sit back and crack open a bottle of liquid
cider apples; short of actual rot in the fruit, gold, lovingly put away the previous fall.
you neednt worry about how they look. Let the birds sing; let the bees drone from
Scab, mildew, even insect blotches dont blossom to blossom pollinating the coming
affect these stalwarts use in cider. If parts harvest. What could be finer than to relax
of the fruit are brown and mushy, either beneath your trees and enjoy the labors of
throw away the entire fruit or cut out the your fruit?
damaged areas which can host toxin-pro- A 20-foot square of backyard can
ducing mold. When it comes to insects, the hold one standard-sized apple tree, two
hard truth about hard cider is this: the semi-dwarfs, or four fully dwarf trees.
occasional pressed larva is pretty much Three dwarf apple trees leave room for
inevitable. Do as our pioneer ancestors another type of fruit tree to round out your
didsqueeze your apples boldly and try cider-making possibilities. Depending on
not to think about it. your zone, consider a dwarf peach, quince,
or sour cherrygreat cider additions all.
CIDER BEYOND APPLES Peach trees (Prunus persica ) demand a
Cider neednt be about apples alone; other mild climate: they need at least five frost-free
homegrown flavors can lend a refreshing months and a chilling period of 600 to 900
or interestingtwist to this otherwise hours below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Where
single-minded beverage. Berries and springs are particularly cold and damp,
other fruits are natural cider associates. peaches suffer poor pollination and peach
Practically any berry you can grow in your leaf curl. Many cultivars are self-fertile.
backyard makes a nice addition to cider. Dwarf peaches of 5 to 7 feet are available.
Often-used berries include raspberries, Fruiting quinces (Cydonia oblonga
strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, not the more common flowering quince,
and black currants. These and other juicy Chaenomeles species) are attractive
fruits such as peaches, cherries, kiwi, all-season trees that, at less than 15 feet,
pears, and quince are juiced and fermented fit neatly into a home landscape. Quince
separately, then added to the fermented fruit may be mistaken for oversized,
apple juice. Drier fruits and herbs can be downy-skinned pears. Although now
steeped in the cider at the first racking, somewhat rare, quinces were common in
after the liquid has been siphoned from one colonial orchards. They produce heavy
fermentation vessel to another. crops, but the fruit is slow to ripen, often
CIDER | 155

into November. Gardeners in cold climates rally small, to 20 feet tall with a spread as
may find their quince fruit cant beat the wide. Some sour cherry varieties are sweet
first killing frost. Otherwise, the trees enough to be enjoyed fresh. Sour cherries
themselves are hardy into Zone 5. Quinces are self-fertile.
are self-fertile; you only need one. Your three dwarf apples trees should
Sour cherry trees (Prunus cerasus) in two or three yearspresent you with
are the most cold-resistant of the three. enough fruit for about 9 gallons of fresh
They can survive in Zone 4, although they cider. If your climate is mild and your soil
might suffer deadly trunk damage in the reasonably friable, why not try the king of
coldest regions. Blossoms can be nipped cider apples, Kingston Black? A bushel of
by late frosts. Sour cherries perform best bittersharp Kingston Blacks will enhance
where winters are frosty and summers any cider. For your second tree, consider
are mild to moderate. The trees are natu- a bittersweet such as a vigorous and
Growing Apple Trees from Seed
A pple trees can often be grown from pomace via benign neglect. Spread the
seedy pomace on loose, fallow soil in the sun, keep it damp, and wait for the
pips to pop. In the dormant season, move the seedlings to pots to grow in, orif
they arent crowdedleave them in place until theyre at least 18 inches tall, and
then move them to their permanent homes. There are two things to keep in
mind when growing apple trees from seed. First, these will be big trees (up to
30 feet). Second, you never know what youre going to get with sexually propa-
gated apples; theyre likely to be poor culinary fruit, but fine for cider. Thats the
fun of it! Youve engaged in a botanical treasure hunt. You are the proud owner
of apple trees found nowhere else in the world. If one of your pippins turns out
to be a genetic gem, you can graft it and share it with friendseven patent it.
These trees are yours alone, and they are unique.
156 | CHAPTER 5

high-alcohol Medaille DOr, or an equally
vigorous Major. Your third tree can round
out your cider triumvirate with a sweet
such as a Grimes Golden, which is aro-
matic and doubles as a culinary apple, or
a Roxbury Russet with the same charac-
teristics but also stores well and thrives in
colder climates. In place of a sweet cider
apple, you can plant your favorite culinary
appleperhaps a Coxs Orange Pippin,
Jonagold, Liberty, Honeycrisp, Ashmeads
Kernel, or whatever suits your fancy. Just
be sure it ripens around the same time as
its orchard-mates; this not only makes for
convenient pressing but helps ensure pol-
lination because apples that ripen together are pruned out the following fall or win-
tend to bloom together. ter. This means careful pruning since this
Now for some berries. A 20-foot row of years fruiting canes are growing amongst
raspberries, blackberries, or jostaberries last years dead canes. The dual-crop rasp-
will further expand your cider repertoire. berries are different. The easiest way to deal
If your orchard comprises dwarf trees, you with these is to simply cut all the canes
might even consider growing a row of each down in the winter before the new fruit-
along the east, south, and west borders ing canes appear in spring; this gives one
of your garden. After all, raspberries and crop of berries in late summer. Or they can
blackberries are a wonderful summer treat be pruned like summer bearers (removing
that are at their best picked out of your last years dead canes) and the live canes
own backyard. Jostaberries (pronounced allowed to grow for two smaller crops:
YOS-ta-berries: in your best pseudo- Summer and early fall. Upright blackber-
Swedish accent say, Yah, yostaberries!) ries, in addition to having their old canes
can also be eaten fresh, but are equally removed, benefit from having their new
good turned to jellyor included in cider. canes tipped back by 3 to 6 inches when the
Raspberries come in two distinct types: canes reach 3 to 4 feet. Otherwise, the main
single-crop summer bearers and dual-crop requirements of blackberries and raspber-
summer/fall bearers. In summer-bearing ries are well-drained soil, sun, winter chill,
raspberries, as well as the upright-growing and a Zone 3 to 8 setting for raspberries,
blackberries, canes that produced last year Zone 5 to 9 for blackberries.
CIDER | 157

Jostaberry is a cross of black currant Refer to the Wine chapter for additional
and gooseberry. They are easy to grow, notes and instruction on:
thornless, and generous with their crops.
The attractive bushes grow to 5 to 6 feet Blackberry
and prefer Zone 5 and colder. A single plant Blueberry
can gift its grower with 8 to 12 pounds of Cherry
fruit. Check your local regulations before Cranberry
setting your heart on jostaberries or cur- Elderberry
rants; they are prohibited in some states Pear
because they host blister rust, which deci- Pumpkin
mates native white pine. Red Raspberries
What to Do with Pomace
W aste not, want not, and apple pomace is much too good to waste. You
can go the traditional route and feed it to your pigs or livestock (though
it is too rich for horses). To do this, mix small amounts of pomace with large
amounts of hay or other forage. The crumbly mash also makes a luxurious
mulch for acid-loving plants such as rhododendronsif you dont mind its brief,
though heady, wine aroma and volunteer seedlings. If nothing else, pomace is
an excellent compost ingredient. However, if youre daring, and have an acre to
fill, consider growing new trees from the leftover apple seed.
158 | CHAPTER 5

Crabapple
BOTANICAL NAME: Malus domestica
PLANT TYPE: tree
USDA ZONES: 49
HEIGHT: 2030 feet standard; 1215 feet
semi-dwarf; 710 feet dwarf
SOIL: well-drained, acidic soil
LIGHT: full sun
WATER: regular during fruit
development
GROWTH HABIT: tall, spreading
PROPAGATE BY: grafting, seed. (Apple
trees do not come true from seed.)
YEARS TO BEARING: standard 58; semi-
dwarf 35; dwarf 24
PRUNING: In the early years, concen-
trate on building a strong scaffold-
ing. Retain strong branches that
emerge in an even spiral up the tree.
Choose one tall, strong, upright
to serve as the central leader and
remove any other tall branches that
might want to challenge it. When
the tree is mature, cut back the if fruit is ripe, cut open an apple and
central leader to the highest branch check for dark brown seeds.
coming off of it, around 7 feet from NOTES: Apple trees can live 60 to 140
the ground. Remove dead, diseased, years. Two varieties are needed for
weak, and crossing branches, and cross-pollination. Dwarf and semi-
those growing into the center of the dwarf trees are often more suited to
tree. This encourages new wood with home orchards. Apples can be grown
new fruiting spurs. as an espalier. For 5 gallons of cider
THINNING AND HARVEST: Thin to one fruit use about 20 pounds of apples.
every 56 inches. At harvest, a dwarf BEST USED IN: sweet and hard ciders,
tree can yield 3060 pounds of fruit; wine, and liqueurs. Apple wine tends
a standard, 300800 pounds. To see to be sweet and buttery.
CIDER | 159

Jostaberry
BOTANICAL NAME: Ribes nidigrolaria remove oldest branches. Then remove
PLANT TYPE: small shrubs canes more than two years old each
USDA ZONES: 38, best in Zones 5 and year during dormant season, leaving
colder six to eight canes.
HEIGHT: 7 feet HARVEST: 310 pounds per plant.
SOIL: average, loamy garden soil. Will Pick when fully ripe for best flavor;
tolerate heavy or sandy soils jostaberries turn nearly black when
LIGHT: full sun they are ripe. They ripen individually
WATER: regular within clusters, so must be picked
GROWTH HABIT: upright, thornless, individually. Avoid washing, which
branching canes can cause them to spoil quickly.
PROPAGATE BY: cuttings NOTES: A thornless cross between a
SPACING: 5 feet black currant and a gooseberry,
YEARS TO BEARING: two (three to four jostaberries are vigorous and healthy
years for full production) plants that require little pruning.
PRUNING: Prune before growth starts Self-fertile.
when plants are four years old to BEST USED IN: cider, wine

Quince
BOTANICAL NAME: Cydonia oblonga
PLANT TYPE: small tree
USDA ZONES: 59
HEIGHT: 1025 feet
SOIL: well-drained
LIGHT: full sun
WATER: moderate to moist
GROWTH HABIT: A quince can be trained
to a single trunk as a small tree or
grown as a multiple-stemmed bush.
PROPAGATE BY: cuttings, layering, seed
SPACING: 20 feet
YEARS TO BEARING: five
PRUNING: Quinces need little pruning.
HARVEST: 30 pounds per tree at seven
to eight years. The fruit turns yellow
when ripe.
NOTES: Quince fruit resemble large,
furry pears. Fruit may not ripen
until November and can be lost to
freezing in colder regions. Quinces
are self-fertile. Store fruit in a single
layer in trays. Keep in a cool, dry
place where they should hold for up
to three months.
BEST USED IN: cider, wine
CIDER | 161

|

A Very Scrumpy Sidebar
W ho doesnt like the word scrumpy? Try saying it aloudsee what I mean?
Scrumpy is a perfect cross between scruffy and grumpy. Its how I feel
around 5 p.m. after a day hunched over my keyboard, still wearing the clothes I
slept in. But then I pop open a bottle of cider (or better yet, scrumpy!) and sud-
denly, its all good. So lets get our scrumpy on.
Apple or pear scrumpy is strong cider. Its potent, puckery, and usually
cloudy. The termwhich comes from windfall apples, known by rustic types
as scrumpsis otherwise open to interpretation. For some, it means cider
that hasnt finished its final fermentation; for others its a heady drink allowed
to mature for an extended period. Still others view scrumpy as a local product,
indigenous to certain cider-producing regions of England. In general, scrumpy
has an alcohol content of seven to eight percent, but it can run as high as fifteen
percent. Maybe scrumpy is just how you feel the morning after indulging in too
many glasses of fifteen-percent cider.
CIDER | 163

CHAPTER 6
A Little Bit of Perry

A Chapter for Pears

P
ity the pear. It gets no respect. Even our lexicon is against it. A pear a day will
not keep the doctor away. You will never travel to the Big Pear and make it
there. Did you upset the pear cart? Find someone who cares. Sadly, theres
no denying that the pear is the apple of no ones eye.
So, rather than lumping pears with determined that the beverage would go
apples in the cider chapter, lets give them down smoother as pear cider.
the dignity of their own chaptereven if it Owing to the low acidity of pears, perry
is somewhat brief. In it we will eschew the tends to be sweeter, smoother, and more
dismissively derivative pear cider in favor delicate than cider. While its true that the
of the drinks rightful name: perry. For a addition of pear juice can mellow and refine
few short pages we will celebrate this sadly any hard cider, this does not make it perry.
slighted fruit and the alcohol derived from Real perry is 100 percent pressed perry
it. How do you like them pears? pears. A traditional and excellent perry is
actually more achievable by you, the home-
GETTING TO KNOW PERRY owner with one good perry tree, than it is
Perhaps the easiest way to categorize for corporations whose drinks are derived
perry is by considering what its not: Its primarily from general-purpose pears or
not wine, although pears do make a fine a mix of pear and apple. Perry requires a
wine. Its also not hard cider; cider is made little study and a lot of attention to detail.
primarily of apples and tends to have a That said, perry-making isnt complicated.
more robust, earthier flavor. So, why all A bit of effort and you too will understand
the confusion between cider and perry? Its why wealthy landowners of yesteryear gave
a matter of marketing. Rather than intro- cider to the hired help and saved the perry
duce Americans and young consumers to for themselves.
the unfamiliar (though ancient) moniker If cider received little attention in
perry, the architects of euphemism have the twentieth century, perry practically
A LITTLE BIT OF PERRY | 165

Pears are one of the tastiest and most overlooked fruits in brewing.
disappeared. It was never standard fare Perry at Home

in the United States, but even in perry- Another challenge for perriers is the
producing England the drink went into nature of pears themselves. There are sev-
decline as orchards were lost to fire blight eral important differences between pears
and changing fortunes. Migrant pickers and apples. For one, perry pears are less
moved to more lucrative, less strenuous acidic than cider apples. They have higher
work. In just a few decades, dessert pears levels of sugar including unfermentable
had replaced many perry orchards. Left sorbitol, which gives perry a sweeter fin-
with mostly sweet pears to work with, ish than cider as well as a slight laxative
aspiring perry producers found their fledg- effect. Pear tannins also differ from those
ling beverages disappointingly insipid. The in apples; they dispose fermenting perry to
near extinction of perry has created cer- develop an unappetizing haze that must be
tain challenges to modern perry produc- dealt with, and even then perry is prone to
tion. For one, true perry pears, which make cloudiness. The interference from this tan-
all the difference, are now hard to come by. nin haze is one reason homemade perry is
For another, cider is simply more famil- generally a flat beverage; although it might
iar to consumers. Theres no denying that be made to sparkle with a bit of added
perry has been sadly neglected. But things sugar at bottling, if youre feeling ptillant.
are looking up for perry. Thanks to modern Finally, pears have characteristics that
fermentation artists, the drink is making a can lead to sluggish fermentation. This
comebackeven if one somewhat open to final failing is often solved by the addition
interpretation and experimentation. of ammonium sulfate to the juice. If you
166 | CHAPTER 6

understand the peculiarities of pears, take bamboo, in the length of your choice. Once
a bit of care, and add a few commercially the pears are harvested, they (and you) are
purchased preparations, you can process ready for a rest. As previously mentioned,
perfectly passableeven profoundperry. pears will need several days if not a week or
The home perrier must understand two to mellow. Store them in a single layer
yet another important distinction between at room temperature. If pears are used too
the fermenting of pears versus apples: soon, they will add little of their character-
Pears require patience. First, pears need istic flavor to your perry. If they sit too long,
time to mature after harvest. This takes you will find they have stealthily rotted from
from two days to a full week (sometimes the core outward and are destined for the
longer), depending on the variety. Second, compost rather than the carboy.
pear pomace needs a rest between crush- Twenty pounds of pears yield about a
ing and pressing. After it has been thor- gallon of perry. If you plan to go au natu-
oughly mashed, pear pulp should sit for ral with your fermentation, dont wash the
twenty-four hours to allow some resident pears, which will remove wild yeasts. If youll
tannins to dissipate. This step is crucial for be using commercial yeast (which is recom-
reducing cloudiness in the final product. mended), go ahead and rinse your pears.
From harvest to table, a well-made batch They are now ready for pulping. Pears can
of perry can take ten months. Is it worth the be pulped in the same way as apples (see p.
wait? Just ask Napoleon, a perry connois- 142), or, if theyre suitably soft, the fruit can
seur who once crowned the beverage the be squished into sauce with anything from
champagne of Britain. Oui, oui! he would a potato masher to a small, barefoot child.
say if he were alive. No doubt Napoleon knew For a modest batch of perry, you can crush
to pick his pears when they snapped neatly your pears in a juicer or blender. Better
at the stem joint when lifted and slightly yet, invest in a fruit pulper that attaches
twisted. Follow his example. Treat your to the end of an electric drill and chops
pears with respect: a fruit roughly dropped the fruit with a blade. After crushing, the
into a box, an incautious fingernail piercing pulpmore accurately known as pomace
the skin, and spoilage is imminent. needs another rest. Cover the pomace with
Pear picking can be done safelywith cheesecloth or a towel to thwart fruit flies,
feet firmly on the groundvia an old fash- and leave it in a cool place overnight to oxi-
ioned fruit picker on a stick. A fruit picker dize out excess tannins. This step is import-
consists of a circular metal tool with fin- ant for reducing elements that cloud perry
gers used to pry the fruit loose, and a bag and slow fermentation, risking a microbial
hanging beneath to catch the fruit as it falls. bloom. The next morning, the pomace is
The metal picker is fixed atop a pole, such as ready for pressing (see page 137). Beware:

mashed pears are slippery and thus trickier for another day for the Campden tablet to
to press than apples; unless care is taken, do its work and then dissipate so that the
a post-pear-pressing kitchen may look like yeast you add will not be killed in turn.
the scene of a food fight. Yeast is often started before being
added to the juice. This involves boil-
Fermenting the Juice ing water into which a small amount of
In the days of old-fashioned perry-mak- sugar is dissolved. Its important to allow
ing, the juice was poured into wooden bar- the solution to cool to 105 to 110 degrees
rels and left to the mercy of wild yeasts. Fahrenheit before proceeding with the
The same process can be used by you, the yeast: Too hot and the yeast will be killed,
home perrier, with the substitution of a too cool and the yeast doesnt get the
plastic fermentation bucket or glass car- jump-start it needs. Consult the packet
boy. The container is left open to breathe. for the optimal treatment of your particu-
Fermentation starts in a day or two and lar yeast. Once the water is at the correct
ends several weeks later. As the juice fer- temperature, its time to add the yeast and
ments, keep the container topped off with the yeast nutrient (if the nutrient was not
more perry. When the initial fermentation added earlier) in a fermentation bucket or
is over, rack off into another sterile con- other appropriate vessel. Cover the con-
tainer. Attach an airlock and leave the coction and leave it alone to foam for four
perry to mature for about six months in a hours at room temperature.
cool place before bottling. This is the first of two fermentations
Although pears can turn into perry that perry, like cider, undergoes. In this
with nothing except the yeasts on their initial fermentation, the yeast converts
skins, your odds of creating a quality prod- sugars to ethanol alcohol.
uct increase with informed intervention, The secondary fermentation comes
a more hands-on approach. Into every about through a different chemical action.
gallon of pear juice add a Campden tab- Now malic acid is converted to lactic acid.
let (sulfite) for sterilization. The amount This happens spontaneously, without any
of sulfite needed for perry exceeds that of effort on your part. First, however, you
cider because pears contain more of the must rack off the perry to separate it from
compound acetaldehyde, which neutral- its lees (sediment). Siphon the perry into
izes sulfite. A teaspoon of yeast nutrient a glass carboy or other container that can
will boost fermentation. Also, a teaspoon of be airlocked. Fill to the neck to leave as
pectin enzyme will alleviate the haze that little air as possible. Its crucial that the
plagues perry. Once these additions have container be sterile to circumvent certain
been made, the juice will need to stand strains of bacteria that will convert the cit-
168 | CHAPTER 6

Pear
BOTANICAL NAME: Pyrus communis branches reach a 45-degree angle.
(European pear) Pear trees can be grown as espaliers.
PLANT TYPE: Tree FRUIT THINNING: Thin when the pears are
USDA ZONES: 59 no bigger than a dime. Leave the best
HEIGHT: 15 feet semi-dwarf; 3040 feet single fruit per cluster and one fruit
standard every 5 inches along the branch.
SOIL: Well-drained, slightly acidic loam HARVEST: 12 bushels from a semi-
is best, but pears tolerate damp, dwarf; 50100 pounds or more
heavy soil. from a mature standard. Pears do
LIGHT: full Sun not ripen on the tree. They should
WATER: regular be picked when a gently lifted pear
GROWTH HABIT: strongly vertical snaps off at the stem joint. Store
PROPAGATE BY: grafting, seed picked pears in cool, dark place,
SPACING: 15 feet for semi-dwarfs; 25 feet such as a basement. Within two
for standards months, bring them into a warm
YEARS TO BEARING: three to eight, room three to five days before you
depending on variety and rootstock. plan to begin the fermentation.
Fruit is produced on spurs that NOTES: Pears are very long-lived trees.
remain viable for about five years. Two varieties are needed for polli-
PRUNING: Train pears to a central leader. nation. Although pear trees need
Cut to a modified leader when the tree winter chill, their flower buds can be
is 810 feet tall. Pears require little damaged by late frosts. If fire blight
annual pruning. Remove damaged, is a problem in your area, choose
diseased, and rubbing branches. varieties and rootstocks resistant to
Remove suckers and water sprouts. the disease.
Pears grow strongly upright. Vertical BEST USED IN: perry, pear wine, with
branches can be trained downward apple in hard cider. Pear wine tends
by attaching fishing weights until the to be sweet and buttery.
ric acid of pears to acetic acid. Were not is then allowed to sit and clear in a cool
here to make pear vinegar. place such as a basement or garage, often
After airlocking your second-stage through the winter into the following spring
perry, the malic acid will continue its con- or early summer. For centuries, perry was
version for about two weeks. The perry overwintered in outbuildings. Prolonged

The generous tannins of pears interfere
with effervescence. Even worse, too much
carbon dioxide can trigger lactic acid bac-
teria whichas we have already learned
will turn your lovely perry to vinegar.
PERRY PEARS
True perry is light, complex, and delecta-
ble. It is to pear cider what tenderloin is
to cube steak. True perry does not come
from the branches of a Bartlett or Bosc;
it comes from perry pears. Theres just no
Asian pears
getting around it: Superior perry derives
from fruit that youd never want to bite
chilling, or cycles of chilling and warm- into. The reason for this is our old friend
ing, is beneficial, allowing excess tannin tannin. High-tannin pears are the gold
to clear, but perry should never freeze. If standard for perry-making. Low- to medi-
stalled by cool temperatures, fermentation um-tannin pears may be a fine addition to
will start up again when the ambient tem- the fruit-and-cheese course, but they also
perature climbs to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. make low-quality perry. Unfortunately for
After a long, cold winter, youll know your perrys reputation, these general-purpose
perry is done when the impurities have set- pears are easier to come by and require
tled to the bottom and the liquid has lost less skill to ferment; thus, they are the
all or nearly all of its haze. basis of many commercial perries.
Its now time to bottle your perry. First, Perry trees can be purchased through
sterilize the bottles. If you would like to try mail-order nurseries. Or, if youre willing to
for a bit of bubble, add a teaspoon of sugar turn your hand to grafting (see page 137),
before racking the perry. There should still the National Clonal Germplasm Repository
be enough live yeast to ferment the sugar in Corvallis, Oregon, supplies scionwood of
and release carbon dioxide. If you do elect hard-to-find heritage fruit treesinclud-
to effervesce, use bottles that can take the ing perry pearsto interested individuals.
pressure and cap them tightly. If, however, Either way, pay attention to the rootstock of
you want traditional perry, skip the spar- your tree. Choices include standard-sized,
kle. Dont even think about trying for a OHxF 97 rootstocks or those from pear
high carbonation level, champagne-style. seedlings, either of which needs a minimum
170 | CHAPTER 6

20-foot spacing and may live more than 200 sidered the superlative perry pear because
years to become grand, spreading, heirloom of their well-rounded astringency. These
trees. Semi-dwarf and dwarf rootstocks are are your best bet for single-variety perry.
also available in the OHxF and Pyro series. In consequence of their antiquity
Rootstocks from quince were traditionally (many of todays perry varieties grew in
used, but theyre probably best avoided by English orchards 300 years ago), some
the home grafter since not all pear varieties perry pears bear curious names. Consider
are compatible with quince. the Huffcap, which will blow your hat right
off your headdue to quality or potency,
Pear Varieties who knows? We can only hope that Tayton
The good news about perry is that, unlike Squash is a testament to how perry is
apple cider, only a single variety of pear made and not a forewarning of the flavor:
need be used. This means that one pru- certainly, not even the most diehard vegan
dently picked and productive perry tree wants a heady Hubbard nose with under-
will provide what you need for an outstand- tones of zucchini. Perhaps Green Horse is
ing beverage. The bad news is that you will akin to pink elephants? And Buttlets not
need a second pear tree planted within 40 even speculate.
feet for cross-pollination. But theres more Several varieties of perry pears are
good news; the second tree can be a des- available in the United States. The follow-
sert pear. Perry trees are good pollinizers. ing cultivars are among the most popular
All pear varieties bloom around the same and accessible.
time, so your choice of spouse for your
perry tree is wide open. GROWING PEARS
Perry pears tend to be small, hard, If dessert pears grow in your region, so
gritty, and bitter. For purposes of ferment- will perry pears. Pears in general are more
ing, they are classified as sweet, medium obliging plants than apples, although
sharp, bittersweet, and bittersharp. Sweet some pear varieties are less hardy than
pears have low acidity and are fairly low their round, red orchard-mates. Pears will
in tannin. Medium sharp pears have mod- grow on heavy soils in cool climates from
erate to low acidity and fairly low tannin USDA Zones 5 to 9, and some can tough
content. Bittersweet pears have moderate it out in Zone 4. Many varieties are hardy
acidity and are high in tannin (there are to -25 degrees Fahrenheit, although they
very few pear varieties in this category). may resort to biennial bearing in the cold-
Bittersharp pears have high acidity and est areas. A good harvest depends on 500
high tannin content. Bittersharps are con- to 800 hours of temperatures below 45

Pear Varieties
Barland: bittersharp. Early midsea- depends on the conditions (soil, rainfall,
son. Ripens in late September to early etc.) under which the pears were grown.
October. Bears at an early age. Large, The most common variety of perry pear
vigorous, long-lived tree. Highly scab in Britain.
susceptible. Fruit should be milled within Brandy: medium sharp. Midseason.
three days of harvest. Perry determined Ripens early September to early October.
as average to good quality. Bears at a very early age. Heavy crops, but
Barnet: sweet. Early midseason. Ripens tends to bear biennially. Tree is vigorous,
in late September to early October. Small sturdy, and somewhat smaller than other
fruit, easily shaken from tree. Bears at an perry cultivars. Moderately susceptible to
early age. Tends to bear biennially. Large, scab. Fruit should be milled within four
though relatively compact tree. Scab weeks of harvest. Perry determined as
resistant. Fruit should be milled one to average quality.
three weeks after harvest. Perry deter- Butt: bittersharp. Mid- to late-season.
mined as average quality. Ripens October. Fruit so firm it can lie on
Blakeney Red: medium sharp. the ground for weeks without rotting.
Midseason. Ripens in late September Slow to ferment. Heavy crops, but tends
to early October. Medium-sized fruit is to bear biennially. Vigorous. Fruit should
crisp and juicy. Slow to bear, but reliable be milled in four to ten weeks from har-
crops come with age. Vigorous tree. Fruit vest. Perry determined as good quality.
should be milled within a week from Gin: medium sharp. Mid- to late-season.
harvest. Fruit must be fully mature, but Ripens October. Small fruit. Large crops,
not over-ripe for perry. Perry determined but tends to bear biennially. Stores well.
as average- to low-quality, possibly due Vigorous, medium-sized tree. Scab resis-
to the challenge of capturing the fruit tant. Fruit should be milled three to five
at its optimum ripeness. Its speculated weeks after harvest. Perry determined as
that the quality of Blakeney Red cider good quality.
172 | CHAPTER 6

Green Horse: medium sharp. Mid- to Thorn: medium sharp. Early to midsea-
late-season. Ripens October. Consistent son. Ripens September. Its small fruit can
crops. Stores for several weeks after also be used for cooking (though not
harvest. Grows to a large tree. Scab optimal). Small, compact tree bears heav-
susceptible. Fruit should be milled within ily, but somewhat later in life than many
three weeks of harvest. Perry determined other perry pears. Susceptible to scab.
as good quality. Perry determined as good or very good
Hendre Huffcap: sweet. Midseason. quality. Fruit should be milled within a
Ripens late September to October. Small, week of harvest.
elliptical fruit is easily shaken from the Winnals Longdon: medium sharp.
tree. Vigorous, large tree. Resistant to Midseason. Ripens early October. Small
scab. Although low in tannins, this variety fruit. Medium to large tree is productive,
still makes a good, single-varietal perry. but tends to bear biennially. Slow to reach
Fruit should be milled within two weeks fruiting age. Scab resistant. Perry deter-
of harvest. mined to be good quality. Fruit should be
Tayton Squash: medium sharp. Early milled within a week of harvest.
season. Ripens September. Small fruit Yellow Huffcap: medium sharp.
does not store well. Bears early and Midseason. Ripens late September to
productively, but usually biennially. Fruit early October. When ripe, the fruit must
must be picked as soon as its ready as be picked or shaken from the tree or
it squashes upon falling, thus the name. it will rot where it hangs. Vigorous, the
Medium to large tree. Very susceptible large tree is productive, but a biennial
to scab. Fruit contains a high level of bearer. Slow to reach fruiting age. Small,
citric acid. Considered to make very elliptical fruit contain a high level of citric
fine perry: sweet, clear, and strong. acid. Considered to make very fine perry
Fruit must be milled within two days with a kick. Fruit should be milled within
of harvest. a week of harvest.

a devastating disease that lays waste to
almost any part of the tree. If you live in an
area plagued by fire blight, plant only resis-
tant varieties and rootstocks.
As the saying goes, pears are planted
for heirs. This is a reminder to choose the
site for your perry tree wisely, as it may pro-
vide crops not just for you, but for your chil-
dren, grandchildren, great-grandchildren,
and generations to come. After 100 to 200
years or more, perry trees become venera-
ble, canopied giants that lavish the neigh-
borhood with a ton of pears each year. No,
reallya literal ton.
Golden russet pears
If you dont have the roomor ances-
tral imaginationfor a legacy tree, there
degrees Fahrenheit. Pears also require the are also semi-dwarfs. Perry pears on semi-
right balance of sun and rain. They prefer dwarf rootstocks mature to about 15 feet,
cool, moist, cloudy weather. Perry pears and can be set 10 to 15 feet apart. They
have a memory: the quality of the summer produce fruit about a year earlier than
weather will be the heart of the perry that their standard-sized kin. Within a few
will follow. years, a semi-dwarf should be gifting you
Pears bear at a slightly later age than with a bushel or two of pears.
apples. Once they reach puberty, they bloom Choose a planting site with at least
up to three weeks earlier than apples, mak- eight hours of sun a day and good airflow.
ing the buds and flowers susceptible to late Low areas can be subject to late frosts,
frosts. On the plus side, pears require less which can blast early pear blossoms. Dig
pruning and spraying than apples, and per- a hole the depth of the rootball but wider.
form better on poorly drained soils and clay. Set the rootball in the hole with the top (or
Ideally, plant your pear tree in deep loam, top of the roots, in the case of a bareroot
but they will soldier on in fast-draining, sapling) level with the ground surface.
sandy, and acidic soils. If, however, your Dont plant too deeply and be sure the graft
site is downright boggy, abandon all hope union is above the soil. Spread out the
of growing a pear tree. Barland, in particu- roots. If the roots have begun to encircle
lar, resents waterlogged soil. Most pears the pot, work them loose as gently as possi-
are extremely susceptible to fire blight, ble and head them away from the rootball.
174 | CHAPTER 6

Its best to avoid staking a tree, which appear. Pears dont throw a lot of water
encourages it to rely on the support rather sprouts (vigorous, vertical stems growing
than its own root growth. However, if it upward from the center of a branch or the
appears your new tree may keel over from trunk), but when one appears cut it off
insufficient anchoring, this is the time to close to the branch, trim it back to a well-
put in the stakewhen you can see where placed bud, or bend it over into a useful,
the roots lie. Fill the hole halfway with soil horizontal new branch.
and then add water all the way to the top; Theres one other thing to know about
this will ensure the soil is thoroughly set- training your tree. Young pears stand to
tled around the roots and no air pockets attention. Thats to say, they grow strongly
remain. Once the water has cleared, fill the upright. While you dont want to dampen
hole with the remaining soil. Make a bowl- their spirit, you must consider their future.
shaped depression from the tree trunk to the The scaffolding you create today will be
perimeter of the rootball to make watering the structure of your pear for the next 250
easier. Youll need to keep the soil somewhat years. Talk about pressure. Actually, its an
moist through your trees first summer, if easy fix. Fishing weights and Christmas
not several subsequent summers. Give your ornament hangers will do the job nicely.
new pear tree a little extra love in the form Simply weigh down the sky-reaching
of a 2-inch layer of mulch spread evenly branches to a 45-degree angle. A 60-degree
over the planting area. Manure or compost angle is optimal, but the weights will usu-
are best, but wood chips, shredded leaves, ally pull the branches down a bit farther
straw, or lawn clippings will do. as the branch relaxes. Leave the weight on
For the first few years, train your pear for about a year, by which time the adjust-
to a central leader. This simply means ment should be permanent. Once the tree
letting one centrally placed shoot grow begins to bear, the weight of the fruit will
upward, while removing or shortening any take over the job.
other shoots that attempt to outgrow the Now that your tree is studded with
leader. Once your tree is 8 to 10 feet tall, embryo fruit, its time to thin that fruit.
cut the leader back to a strong and highly Thinning encourages larger, better qual-
placed lateral shoot growing from it. You ity pears and prevents the branches from
now have a modified-leader pear tree. breaking under heavy loads. It can also
Pears require little pruning. Follow stem the tendency of some pear varieties
the usual rule of removing anything dam- to biennial bearing. Thin early when the
aged, diseased, or rubbing. Suckers com- pears are no bigger than a dime. Leave the
ing from the trunk or the rootball should best single fruit per cluster and one fruit
be rubbed or pulled off as soon as they every 5 inches along the branch.

CHAPTER 7
Liqueurs and
InfusedSpirits

From Garden to Glass
L
iqueurs, often thought to be fancy and complicated, are some of the sim-
plest drinks to make. Unlike beer, cider, wine, and perry, liqueurs are created
with ready-made alcohol. All you need to do is add a cup of this or a dash of
that. Then pour on the alcohol, seal, and wait a while. Once it tastes the way
you like, add sugar for liqueur (or leave it out for an infused spirit), and youre done!
Liqueurs can go with just about every- focus on all sorts of herbs in this chapter.
thing: sophisticated dining, as a dessert, However, theres a wild world of recipes out
in a dessert, poured over ice, mixed with there. If you find something promising that
coffee or espresso, or poured with mixers uses fruitor even hopsscan the other
and blended with other liquors for cock- chapters or the index of this book for infor-
tails. Share your best concoctions and mation on the plants you might want to
you will look like a culinary genius to your grow.
friends and family. Youll find the process
itselfturning liquor into liqueuris a HISTORICAL LIQUEUR
creative outlet and a culinary art form. Liqueurs, sometimes referred to as cor-
Once you get the hang of it, chances are dials, are comprised of three key compo-
if you can grow and eat it, you can turn nentsliquor, flavoring, and sugar. Infused
it into a liqueur. You will wonder why you spirits use many of the same ingredients;
never made it before! however, without the sweetener. Whether
The best part about growing your own you realized it or not, youve likely sampled
ingredients for liqueurs is that it can come one or more liqueurs already. Different
straight out of your garden and into a bot- regions of the world have their own signa-
tle. Nothing is fresher than only a few foot- ture liqueurs: O Cha (Japanese green tea
steps between harvest and glass! Since liqueur), Forbidden Fruit (American apple
herbal liqueurs are the easiest to make, and citrus-flavored cordial), Jgermeister
and coincidentally the easiest to grow, we (gentian-flavored German liqueur), and
LIQUEURS AND INFUSED SPIRITS | 177

Most likely, the first liqueurs came from
Greece and were made from distilled wine,
honey, and fruit. The ancient Greek phy-
sician Hippocrates (460 to 370 BC) added
cinnamon to fermented honey, and to this
day, mead mixed with fruit and spices is
called a Hippocras.
In Europe, liqueurs were considered
medicinal and in the earliest references
to distillation, monks and alchemists
produced the spirits and the distillation
was similar to what we would call moon-
shineand with a nasty taste. Flavoring
the medicinal spirits came about to cir-
cumvent those horrid bitter tastes. When
trade opened up to India, all manners of
aromatic spices and sweeteners like sugar
cane provided flavorings that helped the
medicine go down.
From there, some liqueurs started
making a name for themselves. One of the
worlds best-known liqueurs, Bndictine,
was produced by a monastery in Fcamp
in Normandy as early as 1510. Their
trademark, D.O.M., stands for Deo Optimo
Kahlua (a strong coffee-based Mexican Maximo. This translates as: To God, Most
liqueur) are just a few of the commercially Good, Most Great. Made from a fine cognac,
produced liqueurs from around the world. this is the only ingredient revealed; it is
Liqueur, not to be confused with unfortunate that the other components
liquor, is a French word derived from the are closely guarded secretsyet that is
Latin word liquifacere, which means to befitting an elixir to a god. We mortals are
liquefymelt or dissolve. However, the fortunate when we can enjoy this liqueur!
French werent the first to make liqueurs Chartreuse is another liqueur origi-
or spirits. The Chinese had distilled them nally developed for medicinal purposes.
as early as 800 BC, and grape wine was It was made by Carthusian monks in the
distilled by both Greeks and Egyptians. seventeenth century and to this day has a
178 | CHAPTER 7

closely guarded complex recipe that con- Making most liqueurs is very simple
tains 130 different herbs. (Oh, and that as well: You put the ingredients together,
yellow-green color called chartreuse is let them sit for a week, strain the liquid,
actually named because of its resemblance bottle, and seal. For example, to make
to the hue of this original drink developed Praise of Fraise, you gather 2 pints of
by the monastery la Grande-Chartreuse.) fresh strawberries straight from your gar-
By the nineteenth century, the monks den and combine them with 1 cups of
had turned Chartreuse into a commercial simple syrup and one-fifth of vodka (at 80
enterprise. These days, the monks distill proof or more). In a -gallon jar, muddle
the liqueur and have an outside company the strawberries and syrup with a mud-
bottle, distribute, and sell it as Les Pres dler (a pestle-like tool) or use a spoon to
Chartreux. The profits from the drink help mash. Seal the jar with a lid and place in
finance charitable work. a cool dark place for approximately seven
days. Test after about a week to make sure
BRINGING LIQUEUR TO LIFE it has a strong taste and scent of strawber-
We probably wont be growing 130 different ries. Then strain the liquid with a mesh
herbs in our home gardens, but Chartreuse strainer, being careful not to touch the sol-
liqueur is proof that the ingredients we can ids with your hands. If you seal it in a ster-
grow and try with our own liqueurs are ile bottle, it can keep in a dark cabinet for
endless. Experimenting with mixtures of up to one year. Perfect for a pop of summer
compatible herbs or fruits, we can spend in the colder months!
a lifetime mixing our own exotic flavors For most of the herbs that follow, well
grown from our very own gardens. provide at least one guideline recipe, but
Simple Syrup Recipe
S ince granulated sugar does not completely dissolve in alcohol, you can dis-
solve it in water and make a simple syrup. Mix 2 cups granulated cane sugar
with 2 cups water. Bring the mixture to a boil and stir until sugar is dissolved. Let
the liquid cool and refrigerate for up to three months.

its all about your own tastes, and how alcohol (forty percent alcohol content), it will
pungent and fresh your own ingredients be strong enough to act as a preservative.
are. Play with ratios of fresh herbs, vodka, (And it may seem counterintuitive, but with
and sugar (or simple syrup) until you find vodka the higher proof versions often will
what works for you. Feel free to scale down create a smoother liqueur.)
and perform smaller experiments as well! Since this book focuses on the grow-
ing sidewe are gardeners and not distill-
Which Liquor Should YouUse? ers, after allwe recommend you buy or
When making liqueur or infused spirits, you borrow a good liqueur recipe book if youre
should choose your base liquor based on interested in infusions beyond the basics.
what you are trying to accomplish in taste. A Our favorite recipes come from innovator
neutral spirit such as vodka or white brandy Andrew Schloss: Homemade Liqueurs and
in the recipe allows the other flavorings Infused Spirits. With 159 flavors to cre-
to take center stage. However, you can ate, you could spend a lifetime creating
enhance or complement your ingredients liqueurs to dazzle your taste buds. Youll
with brandy, whiskey, rum, or tequila. As find most recipes are not complicated, and
long as you choose an 80 proof or more take a minimum amount of equipment.

ON TO THE HERBS as the limestone is constantly dissolving
The herb garden is going to be one of the and sweetening the soil.
most useful for making liqueurs. For most
herbs, growing them is as easy as mak- Grow Herbs in Pots
ing liqueur! Some are rampant growers; With rampant growers such as mint that
others behave themselves and thrive on send out underground shoots and spread
neglect. Starting an herb garden is easy in an effort to take over the world, you
enough. Most herbs you grow need well- will want to tame them by growing them
drained, humus-rich soil. Except for a few in deep containers that dont come in con-
herbs, save adding fertilizers for your veg- tact with soil. One plant can grow and
etables; the herbs will like a compost-rich quickly fill a pot in one season. Better the
soil instead! Grow your own herbs in con- container than your garden. After a year
tainers or tucked in with your ornamentals or two, depending on the width of the pot,
or vegetables. These plants are great for the plants become too congested and will
beginner gardeners, but seasoned garden- crowd themselves into oblivion. When the
ers grow them too. plants start to decline, you will know its
Soil pH level isnt as much of a worry time to divide them. Lift them out and
if you are regularly adding compost to the divide out a few plants for your new plant-
beds, which tends to neutralize the pH bal- ing. Unless you have a hot compost pile that
ance. Rainy areas typically will have acidic will kill the roots of rampant growers like
soil as the rain leaches out the calcium. mint, discard the soil, roots, and plants,
On the flip side, arid regions tend to have or give starts to friends. Be sure to warn
alkaline soil. In looking for the Goldilocks them about how rampant the plants are,
level of just right, most herbs prefer the pH or a friendship could be lost! When repot-
level to be between 5.5 and 6.5. However, ting your divisions, use fresh potting soil.
in new herb beds where compost hasnt You can mix old and new potting soil in the
had time to work its magic, you will want bottom of the pot to save on costs and save
to test your soil pH level. If too acidic you the new potting soil for where most of the
can add dolomite limestone, and too alka- roots grow.
line you can add sulfur until your annual When growing any herbs that pro-
applications of compost helps change the duce better flavor if grown with little to
soil and neutralizes the pH levels. Adding no fertilizers, dont use a potting soil with
acidic mulches to the top of the soil such timed-released fertilizer. Fresh potting soil
as pine needles will help. Alkaline soil is will be fertile enough to get your young
toughest to keep at a lower pH level though, plants growing when first planted and you

can add a conservative amount of organic flowers begin to develop seeds, the flavor
fertilizer to the containers early in the of the leaves deteriorates. When the bot-
growing season. Herbs grown in rich soil tom-most leaves at the base of the plant
will not produce as much volatile oils that begin to fade and fall from the stems, the
contribute to plants flavor. plant has reached optimum development.
As with any gardening endeavor, start Cut your stems with garden shears in the
small, build on your successes, and learn morning when the dew has dried, when
from your failures. the essential oils are at their peak. Take
care not to bruise the leaves. Harvesting
Harvesting Herbs in the morning means less wilting and
For many herbs, the best time to harvest less bruising of the leaves. If the weather
is during the early blooming stage, when is cool, you can wait until later in the day
the volatile oils are at their peak. After the before harvesting.

Drying Herbs
You wont always be able to use fresh herbs
in your tinctures. Plus, you may want to
make some batches during the off season
months.
To dry herbs in small quantities, wash
them and pat them dry, tie them together
in small bundles, and hang them to dry
upside down in a dry, dark place. Light will
fade the leaves if exposed to sunlight. You
can also spread your herbs out on drying
screens. Drying can take up to fourteen
days to complete. Fans help move the air
around in rooms and will help the drying
process. Dont let the fans blow directly on
the product as you might end up with it
blown off the screens. High humidity areas
will need good airflow over the leaves. To
complete the drying process the humidity
needs to be less than forty percent. Drier
air speeds up the process. The faster the
herb can dry the better quality it will be.
Remember dried herbs have a higher
concentration of flavor than fresh. Use
fresh whenever you can, and adjust your
measurements in recipes accordingly for Although this tall, edible herb species
dry or fresh. is ornamental with bamboo-like stems and
umbels filled with small white flowers, be
Angelica sure you are growing Angelica archangel-
With a name like Angelica, this herb must ica and not an ornamental species such
make a drink fit for the angels! Perhaps thats as A. pachycarpa or A. gigas. All parts of
why many liqueur recipes feature Angelica the sculptural, 6-foot-tall, biennial herb
as one of their ingredients. For example, the are ediblethe roots, seeds, and stems.
herb is reputed to be the main herb in the Related to the carrot, Angelica forms a tap
secret recipe for Chartreuse liqueur. rootand this is the part most commonly

used to make liqueurs and infused spirits. Its best to grow Angelica in your orna-
The amounts used will depend on your rec- mental, herb, or kitchen garden. The corymb
ipes and what part of the plant is used; rec- of white flowers attracts pollinators, so it is
ipes can call for as little as 2 tablespoons useful if grown close to other plants that
and up to cup of its fresh roots. need pollination to bear fruit or seed. It is not
Being a biennial plant means the herb advisable to harvest this plant in the wild.
will grow its foliage the first year and set Since the herb closely resembles the poison-
seed and die the second year. If you dont ous water hemlock (Cicula maculata), you
allow it to go to seed, the plant will live wouldnt want to mistake its identity with
another year. the other and wind up with deadly results!
Angelica
BOTANICAL NAME: Angelica archangelica MONTHS TO HARVEST: eighteen
PLANT TYPE: biennial herb PRUNING: none needed. The lifespan of
USDA ZONES: 49 the plant can be extended to a third
HEIGHT: 6 feet year if the flowers that appear the
SOIL: moist, rich, slightly acidic loam. second year are removed.
Side-dress plants with a heavy layer HARVEST: The stems and leaves should
of compost to retain moisture. be collected before the plant flowers.
LIGHT: part shade, full sun in cool NOTES: Angelica prefers regions with
climates mild summers. Foot-wide, round-
WATER: regular to heavy. Unlike other ish umbels composed of tiny white
herbs that prefer drier soil, angelica flowers make the plant ornamen-
needs weekly irrigation. tal. The easiest way to get started
GROWTH HABIT: upright, leafy growing this tall herb is to purchase
PROPAGATE BY: fresh seed, root divi- young plants the first two years and
sions, and cuttings in early spring. let them flower and go to seed. Allow
Self-seeds readily. Most seed will not some seeds to fall to the ground
germinate until the following spring. andsprout.
SPACING: 18 inches BEST USED IN: liqueurs
184 | CHAPTER 7

Freezing Herbs
F resh herbs give the best flavoring, but a trick to keeping the freshest taste in
storage is to wash your harvest, chop the herbs, measure, and add to water-
filled ice cube trays. When the herb cubes are solidly frozen, remove from ice
tray and place in freezer storage bags or containers. When ready to infuse your
liqueurs, thaw out the number of ice cubes you wish to use for your batch, strain
the water, and add the herbs to your liqueur. Herbs, such as basil, that lose fla-
vor when dried will keep a fresh taste when frozen. To freeze, rinse your freshly
picked basil or other herbs, and remove tough stems. Spin dry using a salad spin-
ner, or pat dry between clean towels or paper towels. Chop basil into fine pieces
and drop up to 2 teaspoons of chopped basil into the water in each cube in the
tray. Keep your measurements uniform throughout the whole tray. Once frozen,
package the basil ice cubes in your air-tight freezer storage container and mark
on it how much basil is in each cube. You can use this method for almost any
herb you grow and want to keep its fresh taste long after harvest is over.
Anise Anise is an annual herb whose flower

Ho, ho, ho and a bottle of Pimpinella- clusters look similar to Queen Annes Lace
infused rum? Yes, anise can spice up a to which it is related, and has naturalized
bottle of rum! It is also used in a national like a wildflower across the country. And
drink made in GreeceOuzo. In fact, in like Queen Annes Lace (Daucus carota),
ancient times the Greeks used licorice-fla- once planted in your garden, anise plants
vored anise in bread and wine. Now it is will likely seed themselves every year if you
used in many dishes to help sweeten them, dont harvest them and let them go to seed.
or for its licorice-like flavor in the case of Pull out any unwanted ones. They wont
liqueurs. Anisette is a French liqueur fla- transplant because of their carrot-like
vored with anise seed. taproot.

Once widely grown commercially, anise
is often replaced commercially by cheaper
anise-like flavoring such as Illicium verum
and synthetic flavorings. When you grow it,
you are using the authentic herb, not some
cheap knockoff. That doesnt mean you
cant make a great knockoff drink, how-
ever: This Ouzo liqueur knockoff has plenty
of licorice flavor. Crush -cup licorice root
and cup anise seed and crack twelve star
anise seeds. Place in jar and pour one-fifth
vodka over it. Seal the jar and place in a
cool, dark place. After three to five days the
infused vodka will smell and taste like lico-
rice. Strain the liquid and stir in 1 cup sim-
ple syrup. Bottle and store the liqueur in a
dark, cool place for up to one year.
Anise
BOTANICAL NAME: Pimpinella anisum MONTH TO HARVEST: four
PLANT TYPE: annual herb PRUNING: none
USDA ZONES: 710 HARVEST: In August or September the
HEIGHT: 1824 inches dry flower heads can be placed in
SOIL: light soil a paper bag. When thoroughly dry,
LIGHT: full sun shake out the seed.
WATER: regular. The germinating seed NOTES: The fruit of anise (often incor-
needs constant water; established rectly referred to as seeds) adds a
plants can tolerate low water or short licorice flavor wherever its added. In
periods of drought. fact, anise oil is the predominant fla-
GROWTH HABIT: feathery and wispy voring of black licorice candy. Anise
PROPAGATE BY: seed, planted when the may be grown in pots and moved
soil is at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit outdoors in late spring.
SPACING: 1 foot BEST USED IN: liqueurs, beer
186 | CHAPTER 7

Basil as soon as the soil has warmed to at least
Basil is a heat-loving herb in the garden, 50 degrees Fahrenheit!
and quite easy to grow. It makes a good As far as taste, fresh-picked sweet
container plant as well. basil has a wonderful taste thats hard to
Its best to plant basil seeds once the describe. Its a sweet, spicy, licorice, clove
weather has warmed at the end of spring kind of flavor. So sure, basil is what lends
as germination is poor to nonexistent in flavor to many savory dishes, like tomato
cool soil. For an earlier harvest, plant seeds and pesto sauces. Yet it turns out that basil
indoors in pots two to three weeks before can be equally tasty combined with fruits
the last average date of frost for your area. like cherry in a liqueur. These two powerful
Cover the seeds with 18 inch of seed-start- flavors can make a fantastic combination.
ing mix or sprinkle seeds over the top of Dont believe me? Try it yourself: Combine
the mix. Then youre ready to plant outside one bunch fresh basil, two pints of sour

cherries stemmed and crushed (leaving Basil is used as an ingredient in quite
pits in), and place it in a jar with one-fifth a few other liqueurs as well. Weve seen it
of 80- to 100-proof vodka. Infuse for up to married with strawberries and lemons,
five days, until you can taste and smell the and in a specialized basil liqueur made
cherries and basil. When the infusion is with Genovese basil leaves.
finished, strain the liquid and add 1 cup Basil loses too much flavor when dried, so
simple syrupor more to taste. fresh is best, and frozen the next best thing.
Basil
BOTANICAL NAME: Ocimum spp about 6 inches in height. Freeze
PLANT TYPE: tender perennial herb, basil leaves for later use rather
often grown as an annual in cooler thandrying them, which changes
zones. Perennial in Zone 10 the flavor.
USDA ZONES: 410 NOTES: To encourage bushiness, pinch
HEIGHT: 1224 inches out the tip of the seedlings once they
SOIL: moist loam reach 6 to 8 inches.
LIGHT: full sun BEST USED IN: liqueurs
WATER: regular to high
GROWTH HABIT: low, leafy
PROPAGATE BY: seed
SPACING: 610 inches
MONTHS TO HARVEST: two to three
months from seed
PRUNING: Harvest by pinching to keep
plants bushy.
HARVEST: Pinch leaves and stems
asneeded. When the plants begin
toflower, they cease leaf production.
Prevent basil from blooming for
aslong as possible by harvesting
orpinching off the top sets of
leavesas soon as the plant reaches
188 | CHAPTER 7

Caraway
This old world biennial herb, used in the
Middle East for thousands of years before it
was introduced to Europe, was named after
the ancient region Caria that is now Turkey.
In its native haunts, caraway sets its roots
down in moist grasslands and disturbed soil.
Oh, for the old days when potions made with
caraway attracted love! Alls not lost though;
we can still use the seed to flavor dishes and ture as the caraway is so strong. Add
make a wonderful Dutch-style liqueur. cup each of the caraway seed, cumin seed,
The word kmmel means caraway and fennel seed, one-fifth of vodka (80 to
and cumin seed in Dutch, German, and 100 proof) and cup simple syrup. Four
Yiddish languages, and they are the two of to eight hours later, this liqueur is ready to
the main ingredients in Kmmel, the orig- serve! Adjust to taste with additional sim-
inal caraway liqueur. To make a knockoff ple syrup and serve, or store your Kmmel
of the original takes only hours to tinc- in a sealed bottle for up to one year.
Caraway
BOTANICAL NAME: Carum carvi SPACING: 12 to 18 inches. Sow several
PLANT TYPE: biennial herb (grows the seeds per spot and thin to strongest
first year; flowers the second, after seedling.
which it sets seed and dies) YEARS TO HARVEST: two
USDA ZONES: 38 PRUNING: none
HEIGHT: to 8 inches the first year, 2436 HARVEST: Collect the seeds when ripe,
inches the second but before they fall to the ground.
SOIL: well-drained, rich loam Remove the flower heads and gently
LIGHT: full sun shake to catch the seeds. Dry-roast
WATER: low to moderate the seeds to enhance their flavor.
GROWTH HABIT: upright, leafy NOTES: Caraway seed is actually the
PROPAGATE BY: seed, best sown in plants fruit.
autumn. Cuttings. BEST USED IN: liqueurs

Cilantro growing next to raspberries
Cilantro/Coriander
Cilantro is one of those tastes you either the leaves are referred to as cilantro and
love or seriously dislike. Our genetic they have different flavors. We prefer to
makeup can mean the difference between use fresh leaves, but freezing the leaves
tasting a wonderful herb or tasting what for later use is another option. Cilantro
seems like a bar of soap. If you are one with and lime are good complementary flavors
the genes that make you gag over the taste for each other, which is why youll find
of cilantro, its probably smart to pass on plenty of recipes that call for the two. Start
growing this or adding it to your liqueurs! experimenting with the herb once youve
All parts of the herb are edible and tried some recipes, and you will find it
both the seed and the leaves are used in makes for an interesting complex-flavored
liqueurs. The seed is called coriander, and liqueur. How about some tequila? One-
190 | CHAPTER 7

fifth of tequila (80 proof and no worm), and seal. Leave in a cool, dark place for
cup toasted and ground coriander three to five days. It should have a strong
seeds, a chopped bunch of fresh cilantro, coriander taste when done. Strain liquid
grated zest of 3 limes, and 1 cup simple and stir in the simple syrup. Bottle and
syrup. Pour the tequila over the seeds, seal the liqueur and keep in a cool, dark
cilantro, sea salt, and lime zest in a jar place where it will keep up to oneyear.
Cilantro
BOTANICAL NAME: Coriandrum sativum cut leaves in cooking, rather than
PLANT TYPE: fast-growing annual herb the ferny lower leaves. Cilantro loses
USDA ZONES: all most of its flavor when dried. For
HEIGHT: 1218 inches coriander seed, harvest on a dry day.
SOIL: rich, well-drained but moist When the seedpods begin to brown,
LIGHT: full sun or light shade in the cut off and crack to release seed.
hottest areas Allow the coriander to dry in a cool,
WATER: regular well-ventilated place.
GROWTH HABIT: erect or bushy NOTES: Cilantro is the common name
PROPAGATE BY: direct-sown seed. In of the leaves of Coriandrum sativum;
some regions, cilantro will self-seed. coriander is the common name of
SPACING: 68 inches the seeds of the same plant. Cilantro
MONTHS TO HARVEST: Harvest leaves in bolts (goes to seed) quickly in hot
about three to four weeks; seed (cori- weather. It resents being trans-
ander) in about forty-five days. planted; however, an early harvest
PRUNING: Pinch back young cilantro can be achieved by planting seed
plants an inch or so to encourage in peat pots about two weeks before
fullness. Unless youre growing the the average date of last frost. For a
plant for coriander seed, snip off the steady supply of fresh leaves, make
top of the main stem as soon as flow- successive sowings of cilantro seed
ers begin to appear to redirect the every two to three weeks from spring
plants energy into leaf production. to fall. Fall sowings will over-winter
HARVEST: When the plants are large in warmer areas and begin growth
enough, pinch back and pick off the following spring.
leaves as needed. Use the new, finely BEST USED IN: liqueurs

Lemon verbena of Parma, the wife of King Carlos IV of
This shrubs unmistakable lemony fra- Spain. The botanical name Aloysia is the
grance makes itself known anytime you Latin equivalent for the princesss first
brush against it. Its such a pleasing aroma, name, and to this day Europeans com-
that its no surprise that dried lemon ver- monly call the shrub herb Louisa. During
bena leaves are often used in potpourris the Victorian era, lemon verbena was sim-
and to flavor fruit-based drinks, teas, and ply known as the lemon plant. It now has
liqueurs as well. plenty of common names: Cedrn, herb
Spaniards, who introduced the plant to Louisa, hierba Luisa, lemon-scented ver-
Europe, discovered these South American bena, Louisa; and past names: Aloysia
plants native to Chile and Argentina. The citriodora, Lippia citriodora, L. triphylla
herb was named after the Princess Louisa Verbena citriodora, and V. triphylla.
Lemon verbena

Lemon verbena
BOTANICAL NAME: Aloysia tryphylla MONTHS TO HARVEST: two to three
PLANT TYPE: tender, shrubby, deciduous PRUNING: These naturally leggy plants
herb need regular shearing to keep bushy.
USDA ZONES: hardy perennial in Zones Throughout the growing season,
9 and 10. Can be grown as a sum- snip stems back to keep the plant in
mer annual or houseplant in colder shape. Conversely, it can be pruned
zones. as a standard.
HEIGHT: 48 feet HARVEST: Snip off leaves as needed.
SOIL: well-drained NOTES: Lemon verbena has a strong
LIGHT: full sun to light shade in hottest lemony scent and can be a great sub-
areas stitute for lemons. It can be grown
WATER: regular during growing season in a pot and overwintered indoors or
GROWTH HABIT: sparse, shrubby treated as an annual and replaced
PROPAGATE BY: semi-hardwood cuttings every spring.
taken in midsummer BEST USED IN: liqueurs
SPACING: 5 feet
For your own liqueurs and infused leaves, 4 cups vodka, and 2 cups sugar.
spirits, use freshly picked leaves when Combine and seal in a sterile jar for two
available, or dry in small bundles or on weeks, occasionally shaking to help dis-
drying racks for infusion after the grow- solve the sugar. When its ready, the infu-
ing season ends. Fresh leaves can also be sion tastes like the citrusy fragrance of
stored in sealed bags or containers and the leaves. Drain the liquid and bottle it in
refrigerated for a short time if you cant airtight bottles or jars. For an even more
use them right away. You can harvest the flavorful infusion that may be ready in as
leaves anytime during the growing season, little as a week, add one 4-inch strip of
but the strongest flavor and scent in the lemon peel (without any pith) to the infu-
leaves comes when the plant is in bloom. sion as well. Sealed in a sterile jar or bottle
An especially refreshing simple recipe and stored in a dark cabinet, the liqueurs
for a liqueur calls for cup lemon verbena will keep for up to one year.

Licorice the year. The dried root pieces will keep for
If you have a sweet tooth, heres an herb one year. The herb sends its roots 3 feet
made just for you. The root stems are fifty down and the rhizomes can wander up to
times sweeter than sugar! What is sur- 30 feet away, with little licorice plants crop-
prising is that this herb is a member of the ping up far away from the mother plant.
legume familyrelated to peas and beans. The plants wont completely take over the
However, this plant is not an annual. You garden, but it can be annoying.
typically grow the plant for three years Use a shovel when harvesting your
before you begin harvesting the rhizomes. plants; a fork will not work for digging
While growing, keep the flowers cut off to them up, as the roots are too long and deep
encourage the plant to send its energy into in the soil. This is when you will be glad
root production, not flower production. you have good, loose soil, as you need to dig
You can use fresh roots, but you will deep. In the fall, dig a deep trench around
want to dry them for later use throughout the plant, then dig following the roots as
Licorice
BOTANICAL NAME: Glycyrrhiza glabra PRUNING: none
PLANT TYPE: deciduous herbaceous herb HARVEST: Licorice root is harvested in
USDA ZONES: 710 the autumn.
HEIGHT: 26 feet NOTES: Licorice root can be used
SOIL: deep, fertile, well-drained. fresh,but is typically dried.
Licorice performs poorly in clay soil. Thedried roots hold their quality
LIGHT: full sun; tolerates part shade for ayear. Pregnant women should
WATER: moderate to high avoid licorice. Other culinary
GROWTH HABIT: erect, bushy licorices include Russian licorice
PROPAGATE BY: seed sown in late sum- (Glycyrrhiza echinata), American
mer to early fall in spring; rhizomes; licorice (G. lepidota), and Chinese
division licorice (G. uralensis). Any licorice
SPACING: 18 inches in the garden can be difficult to
YEARS TO HARVEST: two to three. The eradicate once established.
roots become tough and fibrous from BEST USED IN: liqueurs, beer
the fourth year on.
194 | CHAPTER 7

they span out away from the plants and The plants botanical name comes from
harvest as you go. You can select and set the Greek words glykys for sweet and rhiza
aside some rhizomes for replanting. When meaning root. The Greeks and Romans
you are done, your trench that will look loved the plant for its sweetness. Its not
like something youve dug in for a war. Fill surprising that this herb found its way into
your soil back in. liqueurs. It doesnt take much licorice root to
Before drying the roots, you will want make a licorice liqueur: Just 2 tablespoons
to cut them into manageable pieces for of washed and finely chopped licorice roots.
your liqueurs. After the root dries it will Pour 1 cups vodka over the roots and let sit
be a tough, fibrous material that is diffi- in a sealed jar for one week. Strain the liquid
cult to cut through. You will want to dry and add cup simple syrup to the spirits
them using a heat source that is close to 95 and let it sit for another week. Bottle it and
degrees Fahrenheit but not higher. store in a dark, cool place for up to one year.

Mint you plan to use them later in the season.
Mint is a plant that wants to romp around (Though fresh is always best for liqueur in
your garden. Left to its own devices in the our opinion!) Buy your plants from a reli-
ground, it will invade your lawn, trample able source and from there all you need to
other plants, and if it loves the ground it decide is how much mint flavor you want in
grows on, will colonize it completely. We your liqueurs.
love our mint flavorings though, and so we As far as liqueurs focused on mint,
grow it and imprison it in deep containers crme de menthe is the most famous one
that dont have any contact between the and is easy to make. Put 2 cups of fresh mint
drain hole in the bottom and the ground leaves into a jar and cover with 4 cups vodka
where the mint might try to sneak out in (80 to 100 proof). Let it infuse for two days.
search of new territory. Strain liquid and add 1 cups simple syrup,
Either use the mint leaves fresh, freeze or more if you want it sweeter. If you want a
in ice cubes, or dry by harvesting stems festive green liquid, add drops of green food
and tying them in small bundles to dry if color until you get the color you want.
Mint
BOTANICAL NAME: Mentha spp. PRUNING: Harvesting serves as prun-
PLANT TYPE: perennial herb ing. Cut old stems to the ground in
USDA ZONES: Peppermint is hardy to winter before new growth begins. If
Zone 3. Spearmint is the best mint not harvested, shearing back by half
for heat, up to Zone 11. in June or July and keeping watered
HEIGHT: 13 feet depending on species and fed will bring a fresh flush of
SOIL: will grow in almost any soil, but new foliage.
prefers moist, rich loam HARVEST: Snip stems as needed. Choose
LIGHT: full sun to shade fresh, unblemished leaves.
WATER: regular. Mint prefers more NOTES: spreads rapidly by underground
water than do many herbs. stems. Best contained in a pot.
GROWTH HABIT: spreading Choose from spearmint, peppermint,
PROPAGATE BY: division, runners, apple mint, orange mint, and others.
cuttings, seed Peppermint is considered to be the
SPACING: 1824 inches best for classic mint flavor.
MONTHS TO BEARING: two BEST USED IN: liqueurs, infusions
196 | CHAPTER 7

|

Rosemary plant to set the container on a tray of peb-
In warmer parts of the country, rosemary bles with water below the surface to keep
is a beautiful evergreen. The shrub-like the humidity levels up around the plant.
perennial grows very well in many West Dont let the container dry out completely
Coast gardens. The flower hues range from any time of the year. After a few years the
dark to light blue to white depending on the rosemary grows lanky and woody. When
variety. The plant takes well to container that happens, most people replace the
culture too, so climate-challenged garden- plants with new ones as they dont like the
ers can grow the herb in a 12-inch diameter looks of them. You can train and prune
pot outdoors during the growing season. To the plants into fanciful topiaries or let
protect it from the ravages of cold winters, them grow naturally for easier harvesting.
the plant is moved into a greenhouse or a Rosemary dries easily by tying bundles of
sunny window indoors for winter. sprigs of young needles together and hang-
Because rosemary likes a bit of humid- ing upside down.
ity and heated indoor air is dry, it helps the Rosemary has a strong, piney scent
that can overpower many flavors. There
are many recipes that pair rosemary with
lemon or orange citrus hoping that they
embrace each other rather than one over-
power the otheror turn into a pine-smell-
ing cleaner!
Use the younger smaller leaves for your
infusions, cutting fresh sprigs about 4
inches long and use sparingly so as not to
end with an overpowering resinous taste.
The amount you use will vary between
recipes. Vodka, lavender, and rosemary
make up this lavender- and rosemary-in-
fused vodka, which is simple to make. Pour
one-fifth of vodka (80 to 100 proof) over 1
sprig of rosemary, and 2 sprigs of lavender.
Seal jar and infuse in a dark, cool place for
three to five days. When you can taste the
rosemary and lavender, strain the liquid,
bottle and seal and keep in cool, dark place
where it will keep up to one year.
198 | CHAPTER 7

Rosemary
BOTANICAL NAME: Rosmarinus officinalis PROPAGATE BY: seed, cuttings, layering
PLANT TYPE: evergreen woody herb (plants will self-layer where branches
USDA ZONES: 710. Zone 6 in a sheltered touch the ground)
microclimate. SPACING: 2 feet or more, depending on
HEIGHT: 18 feet variety
SOIL: sandy, well-draining MONTHS TO HARVEST: four to five
LIGHT: full sun PRUNING: Pinch tips to keep plants
WATER: low to moderate bushy. Pruning and harvesting can
GROWTH HABIT: shrubby be synchronous. Prune older plants
frequently but lightly. Cut into wood
with needles; rosemary wont regrow
from bare wood.
HARVEST: Harvest fresh, clean needles.
To dry rosemary, bundle sprigs and
hang them in a warm, airy place.
Once dried, strip off the needles and
store in an airtight container. They
hold their quality for a year.
NOTES: Rosemary cultivars offer habits
that are rounded, erect, or sprawl-
ing. Flavor varies with variety; be
aware that some varieties are grown
more for their form than their flavor.
Smaller rosemarys can be grown in
pots. Use fast-draining terra cotta
and water only as needed when the
soil becomes dry. Place the plants in
a sunny, south-facing window.
BEST USED IN: liqueurs, beer

Thyme spices, you most likely have a bottle of this
Thyme is a lovely, evergreen herb that herb in your spice cabinet. Although typ-
has its place in an evergreen garden, and ically you dont equate thyme with sweet-
a culinary one as well. This plant is an ness, the following simple recipe does just
easy, well-behaved, shrub-like perennial that. Pour one-fifth of vodka (80 to 100
that you can grow in the herb or vegetable proof) over 2 handfuls of fresh, flower-
garden, or in a container indoors or out. ing thyme sprigs. Seal jar and infuse in a
Another species worth growing is lemon cool, dark place for two to eight weeks. Do
thyme (Thymus citriodorus), an exceed- a weekly taste test until you find the taste
ingly handsome golden leaf herb, which of thyme to your liking. Strain the liquid
will add lemon flavor to a liqueurs flavor. and stir in 1 cup of simple syrup, bottle and
Use the leaves fresh or dry in small seal, and let set for two more months before
bundles or on drying rack. serving. The more leaves the flowering
If you do any cooking with herbs and stems have on it the more pungent the taste.
Thyme
BOTANICAL NAME: Thymus vulgaris PRUNING: Shear mature plants to keep
PLANT TYPE: woody, evergreen perennial compact.
USDA ZONES: 59 HARVEST: Harvest the leaves through-
HEIGHT: 612 inches out the summer when plants are
SOIL: light, well-drained large enough.
LIGHT: full sun. Light shade in hot NOTES: Thyme makes a good container
areas. plant and may be grown indoors
WATER: low. Tolerates drought. in a sunny window. The plants are
GROWTH HABIT: numerous upright, usually replaced every few years
woody stems when they become woody and
PROPAGATE BY: seed, cuttings, layering sparse. Leaves can beused fresh
SPACING: 1218 inches ordried.
MONTHS TO HARVEST: once plants are BEST USED IN: liqueurs
large enough to take heavy pruning
200 | CHAPTER 7

|

Acknowledgments
WENDYS DEBBIES
A toast to my friends and loved ones To my girlsKela Calkins and Stephanie
Thank you for being exactly who you are. Smith.
You and me, a well-crafted beverage and Thank you to the generous garden-
time togetherlife is good! ers who opened their gardens for pho-
Thanks in particular to: Sherrye tographs, and shared their knowledge
Wyatt of the Northwest Cider Association; especially Paula Shelkin, Brad and Lori
Greg Peck, PhD, Assistant Professor of Kittredge, Kris and Cammy Johnson,
Horticulture at Virginia Tech; and Carol Jean-Marie DeKoster, Skyler Walker and
Miles, Professor of Vegetable Horticulture Alan Fritz, and Terri Mitchell.
at Washington State University. Special
thanks to Shaun Townsend, Assistant
Professor of Hop Breeding and Genetics
at Oregon State University for gener-
ously sharing his expertise, and to Alex
Tweten for digging into plants.
202 | ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Photo Credits
Photos on pages 6, 8, 10, 13, 17, 18, 20, 23, 27, 28, 30, 32, 44, 45, 47, 52, 56, 60, 62, 72,
75, 76, 81, 85, 87, 98, 115, 116, 117, 120, 122, 123, 124, 125, 136, 151, 153, 157, 160, 161,
162, 164, 166, 176, 178, 180, 182, 186, 188, 189, 195, 197, 198, and 201 appear courtesy of
Shutterstock.com.
All other photos are from the authors collections.
PHOTO CREDITS | 203

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Wendy Tweten is an award-winning Debbie Teashon is a freelance garden
writer and speaker who lives and gardens writer, author, and award-winning pho-
(and occasionally imbibes) on the Kitsap tographer based on the Kitsap Peninsula
Peninsula in the Puget Sound. Along with in Washington. She has gardened most of
her alter-ego, Miss Snippy, she contrib- her adult life and written about it for over
utes to a number of national and regional two decades and her photography career
publications and websites. She is a regular spans four decades. Debbies articles
columnist for the Kitsap News Group fam- and photographs have appeared in mag-
ily of publications, and her work as been azines such as Fine Gardening, Master
featured in Organic Gardening, Northwest Gardeners,West Sound Home and Garden,
Garden News, Master Gardener magazine, Master Gardeners, and The Oregonian,
and Home by Design among others. She among others. As a plantswoman, she
has won four Garden Writers Association spends her time gardening, taking classes
silver awards and two gold awards for her or researching plants for articles and the
writing. Wendys philosophy is simple: online plant database she maintains on
Design, color theory, and impressing the Rainy Side Gardeners (www.rainyside.
neighbors aside, the true function of a com), a website to help gardeners in the
garden is to entertain the gardener. Pacific Northwest.
208 | ABOUT THE AUTHORS


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61246 - Gardening for the Homebrewer_001-208.

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To find out more about our books,

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WENDY TWETEN AND DEBBIE TEASHON

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CHAPTER 1 Before You Begin 9

CHAPTER 2 The Big Beer Ingredients 31

CHAPTER 3 Other Beer Ingredients 61

CHAPTER 4 All Sorts of Wines 97

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CHAPTER 6 A Little Bit of Perry 165

CHAPTER 7 Liqueurs and Infused Spirits 177

Photo Credits 203

Works Cited 204

About the Authors 208

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Before You Begin

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insulating snow cover, number of chill mon mistakes made by gardenersgreen

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W hen making your own compost, allow it to completely break down in

BEFORE YOU BEGIN | 15

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BEFORE YOU BEGIN | 17

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BEFORE YOU BEGIN | 19

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BEFORE YOU BEGIN | 21

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Orchard trees with alpine strawberries

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BEFORE YOU BEGIN | 25

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Meyer lemon bush

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BEFORE YOU BEGIN | 29

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The Big Beer Ingredients

hour is here. Were all friends together; bring on the beer!

THE BIG BEER INGREDIENTS | 31

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THE BIG BEER INGREDIENTS | 33

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THE BIG BEER INGREDIENTS | 37