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Sewability in Apparel Industry

Conference Paper December 2010

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International Conference of Applied Research in Textile
CIRAT-4, 2010
Monastir, Tunisia

Sewability in Apparel Industry

1
Z. Ondogan, 2 E. Utkun, 1 O. Pamuk and 3 E. Z. Yldz
1
Textile Engineering, Ege University, Izmir, Turkey
2
Buldan Vocational School, Pamukkale University, Denizli, Turkey
3
Emel Akn Vocational School, Ege University, Izmir, Turkey

Abstract: In the literature, sewability is known as the ability and the ease with which the 2-D fabric components can
be qualitatively and quantitatively be seamed together to 3-D garment.
Seam damage can be occured due to the fabric and the sewing parameters. The needle penetration force is one of
these parameters. The needle penetration force is an important factor and through this the sewing damage can be
determined by this factor in the sewing operations. The penetration force is related to the fabric resistance and if there
is a high resistance in the fabric, the risk of the damage is also higher.

Key Words: Sewability, needle penetration force, seam performance, L&M Sewability Tester

INTRODUCTION conversion of fabric to garment and actual

The term sewability can be defined as the ability
and the ease with which the 2-D fabric
components can be qualitatively and
quantitatively be seamed together to 3-D garment.
Some fabrics which meet all of the usual
specification requirements cannot be sewn into
acceptable garments because of the susceptibility
of their yarns to damage by the sewing needle. It
appears that the problem is primarily a lack of
mobility of the yarns; instead of moving when the
needle penetrates the fabric structure, these yarns
remain taut and hence are severed (Frederic, E.B.,
1952).
Good sewability of a fabric indicated the ease of
formation of shell structures on the surface of the
fabric producing pucker-free garments. The
integration of various parameters related to
sewing thread, fabric and sewing machine settings
at their optimum level results in good sewability
(Nayak, R., 2010).
In this study, the importance of the sewability and
the sewability tester is discussed.
SEWABILITY
Fabric quality alone does not fulfil all the criteria
for production of high quality garments. The
conversion of a two-dimensional fabric into a
three-dimensional garment involves many other
interactions such as selection of a suitable sewing
thread, optimization of sewing parameters, ease of
performance of a sewn fabric during wear of
the garment (Behera, B.K., 1997).
Good seams are essential factors in garment
quality. The characteristics of a properly
constructed seam are; its strength, elasticity,
durability, stability and appearance, which
depend on the type of seam and the stitches
per unit length of the seam, the thread tension
and the seam efficiency of the fabric. What
garment manufacturers can do to improve the
quality of garments is to use better sewing
threads, improved machinery, better garment
design and better trained personnel. The use of
a better sewing thread would appear to be the
easiest, least expensive option. Appearance
and performance of the seam are dependent
upon the quality of sewing threads and their
dynamic behavior. (Gurarda, A., 2008)
Sewing machine needle sewing work is
carried out once absorbed, the planting of
consecutive operations is called the seam.
Hand or machine stitching with the
consolidation, strengthening or decoration is
expected to fulfill their duties. Planting
process, a continuous linear form part of a
material with a connecting thread, is to
strengthen and adorn (Erdo an, M.., 2004).
The fabrics must have enough resistance to the
mechanical forces during the different
processes. The construction properties of the
fabrics have fatal importance for the garment
 CIRAT-4, 2010
manufacturing. The sewability is one of these
properties.
The selection of sewing thread for a fabric
depends on the dimensional and mechanical
properties of the fabric and the sewing thread,
their compatibility, the sewing process and the
end use of the garment. Similarly the quality and
performance of a sewn garment depends on
various factors such as seam strength, slippage,
puckering, appearance and yarn severance. All
these factors combined together contribute to
sewability of the fabric which is considered to be
one of the most important aspects of clothing
science (Behera, B.K., 1997).
The tensions generated in the needle and bobin
thread are an important factor in determining the
quality of a lockstitch seam. Improper tensions
can cause various problems, such as puckered
seams, thread breakage and unbalanced seams
(Ferreira, F.B.N., 1994)
Experience has demonstrated that the strength of
many woven fabrics is considerably reduced by
the sewing operation. The result of such reduction
is the shortening of the overall life of a garment.
The measurement of the loss in fabric strength
due to needle damage consists of sewing a seam
in the fabric, breaking the fabric at the line of
stitching, and establishing a ratio between the
orginal and seamed fabric strength. (Gurarda, A.,
2008)
Seam damage can be a serious cost problem, often
showing only after the garment has been worn
(Gurarda, A., 2007).
Seam damage caused by the needle penetrating
through the fabric can create severe problems
when attempting to sew the fabric. The risk for
seam damage depends on fabric and sewing
parameters. The most important parameters that
have an influence on the seam damage of the
fabrics are:
fabric construction (fibre content, yarn
construction, structure, tightness);
chemical treatments of the fabric
(softeness, dyes, finishes, washing);
needle thickness and design;
sewing machine settings (presser foot
design and pressure, sewing speed); and
sewing threads (Gurarda, A., 2005).
The frictional characteristics of the fabric are
determined by a number of factors. Of prime
importance is the method of dyeing and
finishing, for example, solvent-scoured fabrics
from which lubricants have been removed,
possess high frictional characteristics and poor
sewability, and fabrics to which lubricants and
softeners have been added have low forces for
penetration and good sewability (L&M
catalogue).
The seam performance and quality depends on
various factors such as seam strength,
slippage, puckering, appearance and yarn
severance. Sewing needle penetration forces
and fabric deformation during sewing are
effective for seam performance, too (Gurarda,
A., 2007).
The seam efficiency of a garment is affected
by the neddle penetration forces. Seam
damage caused by the needle penetrating
through the fabric can occur severe sewability
problems.
The sewing needle penetration force is the
quantitative measure of the damage which
appears in a garment as the result of the
sewing process. A high penetration force
means a high resistance of the fabric and thus
a high risk of damage (Gurarda, A., 2007).
SEWABILITY TESTER
The L&M Sewability Tester has been
developed as a result of research carried out in
the Clothing Section of the Textile
Department at the University of Leeds (L&M
catalogue). Figure 1 shows the L&M
Sewability Tester.
Fig. 1. The L&M Sewability Tester
 CIRAT-4, 2010

The L&M Sewability Tester is used to test fabric
sewability. (Manich, A. M., 1998) It enables
consecutive readings of force for penetration of
the fabric by a selected needle to be measured on
a small sample of fabric at a rate of 100
penetrations/min (L&M catalogue).
The equipment is simple to use, requires only
small fabric samples and tests can be made in a
few minutes by a single operator (L&M
catalogue).
The fabric specimens are 30-40 mm wide and a
minimum of 100 perforations must be carried out.
The specimen length is thus about 350 mm. If
additional perforations are performed, then a 250-
mm fabric length is necessary for each 100
additional perforations (Manich, A.M., 1998).
The sewability index (value), is the ratio
between the sewability and the thrusting force.
The sewability index increases with the
number of points that exceed the nominal
force level previously set and decreases when
the mean thrusting force increases. This
parameter could therefore be considered to be
a relative value of the thrusting-force
dispersion or unevenness (Manich, A.M.,
1998).
If the sewability value is zero, and sewability
is considered to be very good. When
sewability values range between 0 and 10%,
the fabric sewability is considered good;
between 10% and 20%, even though no great
difficulties arose during sewing, the sewability
is considered fair (Gurarda, A., 2008).

This device measures the thrusting force exerted
by a sewing needle on the fabric. A strip of fabric
passes through a zone in which a sewing needle
operates. The number of thrusts is set. The
thrusting force of each perforation is recorded
(Manich, A.M., 1998).
The expected properties of the fabrics can
vary according to the using areas of the
finished product. The most important
properties are as follows:
- strength,

A nominal value of thrusting force is selected - flexibility,

according to the fabric type, and then the number - softness,
of times this value is exceeded is recorded. Fabric
sewability corresponds to the number of points - appearance,
that exceed the nominal value of thrusting force - drape,
previously set, related to the over-all tested points
and expressed as a percentage. The sewing - permeability
operation will be more difficult as the sewability - shrinkage.
parameter increases.
Apart from these properties, another features
A threshold value was determined based on the like sewability have great importance for the
fabric mass per unit area. Threshold Setting is apparel manufacturing.
given in Table 1.
The neddle penetration forces of the fabrics
Table 1. Threshold Setting Table are evaluated by using the sewability tester.
The advantages of using the sewability tester
FABRIC are as follows:
THRESHOLD SETTING (g)
DENSITY
Single Double Warp 1. Since the testing of every single roll
g/m oz/yd
Jersey Jersey Knits of cloth is a practical possibility with
0- the L&M Sewability Tester, finished
100 0-3 - - 50 fabrics can be made routinely tested
100- before despatch to a maker-up.
150 3-4.5 50 100 100 Problem batches or individual
150- problem rolls within a batch (due
200 4.5-6 50 100 100 perhaps to finishing errors such as
200- premature exhaustion of lubricant in
250 6-7.5 100 150 150 the dye-bath) can be detected and
250- then corrected by refinishing while
300 7.5-9 - 150 150 this is stil possible. Good customer
 CIRAT-4, 2010

relations are preserved and costly claims
for faulty fabric avoided.
2. Routine testing in the same way by a
maker-up prior to cutting out leads to
higher efficiency in the sewing room,
minimises customer complaints and
avoids time-wasting profitless work on
satisfactory material. Again, the material
can be returned for correction while it is
still possible. After the fabric has been
cut, nothing can be done improve bad
sewability.
Tests carried out before agreeing to
purchase fabric can forestall many
production problems.
3. New knitted structures can be developed
for higher levels of sewability by using
the instrument on development samples.
4. Assesment of the relative performance of
different finishing agents becomes
simple.
Fabrics, Textile Research Journal, Vol. 75,
No. 8, pp.628-633.
Gurarda, A., Meric, B. (2007). The Effects
of Elastane Yarn Type and Fabric Density on
Sewing Needle Penetration Forces and Seam
Damage of PET/Elastane Woven Fabrics,
Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, Vol. 15,
No. 4 (63).
Gurarda, A. (2008). Investigation of the
Seam Performance of PET/Nylon-elastane
Woven Fabrics, Textile Research Journal,
Vol. 78, No. 21, pp.21-27.
Manich, A.M., Domingues, J.P., Sauri,
R.M., Barella, A. (1998). Relationships
between Fabric Sewability and Structural,
Physical, and FAST Properties of Woven
Wool and Wool-blend Fabrics, Journal of the
Textile Institute, Vol. 89, Part 1, No. 3,
pp.579-589.
Nayak, R. (2010). Sewing Performance of
Stretch Denim, Journal of Textile and
Apparel, Technology and Management, Vol.
6, I. 3, pp.1-9.
The L&M Sewability Tester Catalogue.

5. Some difficult-to sew fabrics can be

sewn more easily with the correct choise
of neddle. The sewability tester is an
ideal means for identifying the most
satisfactory types of neddle in these
cases.

Problems in knitting, finishing and making-up can

be made easier to solve when the sewability tester
is used as a trouble-shooting tool (L&M
catalogue).

REFERENCES

Behera, B.K., Rathee, P. (1997). Sewability of

Denim, International Journal of Clothing Science
and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 2, pp.128-140.
Erdo an, M. . (2004). Sewing Machines,
Lecture Notes.
Ferreira, F.B.N., Harlock, S.C., Grosberg P.
(1994). A Study of Thread Tensions on a
Lockstitch Sewing Machine, International
Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol.
6, No. 1, pp.14-19.

Frederic, E.B. ( 1952). Development of a

Sewability Test for Cotton Fabrics, Textile
Research Journal, Vol. 22, pp.687-692.
Gurarda, A., Meric, B. (2005). Sewing Needle
Penetration Forces and Elastane Fiber Damage
During the Sewing of Cotton/Elastane Woven

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