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Make an Awesome Viking Helmet!

The complete guide to do it yourself foam helmetry.

You Wi! Need:

Pattern: at the end of this PDF. When you print it, measure against the print guides to know the scale is correct

Ballpoint Pen

Scissors

Ruler

Cutting Surface: Somewhere to cut where you wont be destroying anything.

5-8mm EVA Foam: This can be foam from a camping/exercise mat or, as I used the denser EVA foam found in
anti Fatigue floor mat. This is the mat I used http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/sports-rec/fitness-wellness/yoga-
accessories/shock-athletic-microban-rolled-foam-mat-4-x-8-ft-0840499p.html?

EVA Craft Foam Sheets: Available at most craft stores, approximately 2mm thick. If you can, get at least one
large sheet- I found some sheets that were 30cm x 45 cm which were perfect.

Very Sharp Knife: If it is not really sharp you will have a terrible time when you are cutting the foam. I use a
surgical scalpel.

Glueing Surface: A surface that the hot glue wont stick to- In this video I used waxed paper, but the ultimate
surface is a silicone baking mat- nothing sticks to silicone!

Hot Glue Gun: I find that I like to use the small ones, because you dont want a lot of extra glue squeezing out of
the seams, and it is easier to control with a smaller tip.

5 Minute 2 Part Epoxy: You can usually get this at dollar stores for a few bucks, just make sure to test it first,
because there is a wide variety of quality. There is also regular epoxy which can take up to 24 hours to cure, make
sure you read the packaging or youll be up for a long wait.

Paint: The best is artists acrylic paint, but I have also used ordinary house paint as well. I used Grumbacher
Academy Mars Black, Titanium White, and Burnt Umber.

Softball: Or some other round item of a similar size- around a 10cm diameter

Blowdryer:
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Used for heating the foam so it can be shaped.
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 Rubber Gloves: Used for applying the metallic paste.

Metallic Wax Paste: In the past I have used Rub N Bu, but in this project I used DecoArt Metallic Lustre,
Silver Spark, and Gold Rush. I actually prefer the DecoArt, but either will work fine.

If you are looking for a place to source Rub N Bu metallic wax paste, the best deal I found was here http://
www.allartsupplies.com, I bought about 5 tubes from them and was happy with their service.

The DecoArt Metallic Lustre I bought at Michaels.

If you havent already, please refer to my video at https://youtu.be/mQcpRjfYEvE

Step 1: Pick A Size

There are 4 sizes in this pattern, As a guide, size small fits a head around 52 cm Circumference, Medium-
55cm, Large- 58cm.

Step 2: Print the Pattern

You will need to print the pattern page of this PDF. Make sure the scale is set to actual size. You only need
to print the pages that correspond to the size of helmet you are making.

Step 3: Tracing Your Pattern

The great thing about this pattern is that you can make many dierent styles of helmets, depending on
which pieces you use. Cut out the pattern pieces you will need for the style of helmet you will be making.
Place the paper pattern pieces on the foam, and trace around them with the ballpoint pen, holding them
firmly so that they dont move while being traced. Many pieces need to be traced more than once, which is
indicated on each pattern piece.

Step 4: Main Helmet Pieces

These will be traced onto your 5-8mm EVA foam.

Trace pattern piece 1 twice right side up, and then flip it over and trace another 2 times upside down for a
total of 4 pieces. I label the upside down ones 1a just so I know which are which.

Cut the pieces out carefully with your sharp knife.

Using your hot glue gun, start by glueing together the short V shaped cut-outs all 4 pieces.

Next, glue piece 1 to piece 1a, starting from the pointy end and working your way down to the wider end.
The pieces should be aligned so that the short seams you just glued previously line up with each other.

Repeat for the other half, and then glue the two halves together, starting at the center again and working
your way out to the outside edges.

Step 5: Check the size

Now that you have the main helmet base made, try it on, as it is a lot better to start again from here if it
doesnt fit rather than after you have put tons of work into it. It is up to you how you would like it to fit on
your head, but I like it to be large enough to fit over my ears comfortably.

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Step 6: Vertical Strips
Trace and cut two of each of the appropriate length of strips 4 and 8 from the thin craft foam. Glue the
two strip 4s vertically down the front and back of the helmet (this is the seam that didnt have the extra
V shaped cut out of it) Line the strips up at the bottom edge of the helmet and work your way to the
top. Now do the same with pieces 8, glueing them to cover the side seams of the helmet (the seam that
did have the v cutout)

Step 7: Top Circle

Cut out piece 5 from thin craft foam, Use the blowdryer on its hottest setting to heat up the foam, and
then while it is still hot, hold it onto the softball or other round object until it cools and keeps its form.
Then glue the circle onto the top of the helmet, covering the ends of pieces 4 and 8.

Step 8: Rear Neck Guard (skip this step if you dont want a nicely protected neck)
Trace the appropriate size of piece 9 onto the same type of foam that you used for the main helmet
section. The pattern piece is only half of the neck guard, so after you have traced it once, flip it on the
dotted line and continue tracing the other half. Cut it out and glue it to the back of the helmet, lining up
the centre line of the helmet with the centre line of the neckguard.

Step 9: Cheek Guards (you can skip this step if you like your cheeks bare)
Cut two of piece 2 from thin craft foam- one with the pattern piece flipped over. Also do the same with
the narrow rim piece which is also included in piece 2. Glue the rim piece on top of the full piece #2.
Then glue Piece #2 to the helmet, lining up the top of the rim piece with the bottom of the helmet. The
back edge of the cheek guard should line up with the center of piece 8, though you may want to adjust
this depending on your own personal head and preferences.

At this point, I like to heat the cheekguard slightly with the blowdryer and pinch the cheekguard
vertically along its centre line to give it a bit of strength and shape.

Step 10: Bottom Band

If you have a super long sheet of thin craft foam, you can do this all in one piece, but I could only find it
it 45cm long sheets, so I used 2 pieces. If you cant find that, you will have to make it out of 4 pieces.

Using your ruler, measure a 3.5 cm wide x 45 cm long strip of thin craft foam and cut it out.

Start at the back of strip 8 and glue the long strip around the front od the helmet along the bottom edge
until you get to the back of strip 8 on the other side. Where it overlaps, cut o the extra foam. Continue
the same line around the back of the helmet with your second piece of craft foam, and cut o the extra.

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Step 11: Fancy Nose Guard (skip this step if you want to get your nose chopped o)
Cut piece #3 from thin craft foam.

Center it on the helmet and glue it down. Heat it up a bit with the blowdryer and pinch it to give it more
form and strength.

Step 12: Horns ( skip this step if you just want to finish this helmet and go do some viking..ing)
Okay, I am not going to lie, these horns are a bit tricky to do, so if this is your first time making
something out of foam, you might want to skip this step for now. However, why not have a bit of an
adventure and see if you can make it happen....

Cut 4 of piece #7 from thin craft foam. Starting at the tip, glue the outside edges together. Next try to
give the horn some form so that it will be easier to glue the inside edge. Start at the inside tip and glue the
inside seam together. I have found that the easiest way to do this is to use a little bit of waxed paper over
the seam while I am holding it so that I can hold directly on the seam without the glue sticking to my
fingers. Once you have the horn together, do a little dance because you are awesome!

Cut a thin strip 6mm wide which you will glue over the seams on your horn to cover up the mess.

Now cut two of piece #10, lay a little bit of waxed paper in the centre, and fold the two flat edges
together and glue them in the centre. You can then open up the cone (if you havent accidentally glued it
shut) and glue it on top of the horn tips to cover up that mess :)

Cut four piece #9 and glue them on either side of piece 8 on both sides of the helmet.

Apply glue to the bottom edge of the horn and attach it in the centre of the circle you have made with
piece #9.

Step 13: Rivets

Get out your two part epoxy. Squeeze out a small amount on some scrap cardboard. Mix it together well
in whatever ratio it says on the container. Using a match or a ball headed pin, dip the rounded end into
the epoxy and then touch it against your helmet wherever you want a rivet. You want to be quite fast
when you do this, as 5 minute epoxy really only gives you a couple of minutes before it starts to get thick.
When it gets thick, you start to have problems with strings of glue every time you make a rivet, which
kind of loses the eect. When that starts to happen, I just squeeze out some more glue, mix it up and
continue.

Depending on the quality of epoxy you use, you may still have to be quite careful not to touch the rivets
you have made for up to 20 min.

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Step 14: Paint it
Paint the whole thing black, except for the horns, which I painted white. Once dry give it a second coat.

For the horns, as I didnt want them pure white, right after I did the second white coat, before it was dry, I
just barely got the tip of my brush into a bit of burnt umber paint and made a few little streaks on the horns.
then I got a bit of white paint on my brush and painted over those streaks to give the horns some subtle
coloration. Of course you can do what you like!

Step 15: Make it Look Like Metal

This is the fun bit. Put on some rubber gloves. Squeeze a little Metallic Lustre or Rub N Bu on a piece of
cardboard and just get a little bit on your finger, then rub your finger on the cardboard to get it evenly
distributed on your finger. The thing you want to avoid is having too much on your finger, because then when
you rub it on, it will create a streaky kind of look. Test it out on some scrap until you have a good feel for how
much to apply, and then start applying, slowly working your way around.

If you want to preserve the finish for a long time, you can apply a clear acrylic finish over the top. I have also
had good success with using Mod Podge as a sealer.

Tip: If you dont like the way the Rub N Bu looks, you can always paint over it and try again.

Step 16: Do what Vikings Do.

Now dont just stand there, its time to get on your longship for an epic voyage, or perhaps you would like to
pillage a nearby village. You might even find a dragon that needs some love..... Its all an adventure when
youre wearing a Viking helmet!

I would like to sincerely thank you for purchasing this pattern, I would love to see what you
create with it. If you would like to email me photos, please send them to: lostwaxoz@gmail.com

Also I am always looking to improve your experience, so if you have any problems or suggestions,
I would love to hear them as well!

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Viking Helmet
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Print Guide

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Viking Helmet 1 Inch

Pg10 All Sizes 1 Inch

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Viking Helmet
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