Thesis Title:

The effect of total draft, draft distribution, and twist on the quality of 100% combed cotton yarns
and 50/50 polyester/cotton yarns spun on the Suessen Ringcan sliver-to-yarn spinning system

Thesis Author:
F. Mark Stone, ITT, NCSU, USA

Abstract: A major disadvantage of the ring spinning system from both an economic and quality
standpoint is the necessity to use roving as an extra process prior to spinning. Although the use of
sliver at the ring frame has been attempted numerous times in the past, the concept has never
been commercially- accepted,-attributed- to the complex drafting-systems of earlier systems and
their inability to properly creel the sliver. At the 1991 International Textile Machinery
Association (ITMA) show in Hanover, Germany, Spindelfabrik Suessen introduced the RingCan
spinning system for the production of ring yams directly from sliver. The RingCan system uses
an uncomplicated three roll drafting unit to attain drafts up to 200 times, and Suessen has
attempted to solve the problem of creeling by using a conveyor to transport the sliver from the
draw can to the back of the draft zone without false draft. This work provides an independent
analysis of the Suessen RingCan system with a direct comparison to yams spun on a
conventional ring system. To accomplish this work, 30s Ne yams were spun from both 100%
combed cotton and 50/50 poly/cotton. Three levels of total draft in combination with three levels
of break draft and two levels of twist multiplier were used to evaluate their effect on yam quality.
Yam tests within the Institute's Monthly Quality Check (MQC) program were performed on each
experimental condition to evaluate the physical characteristics of the yam, and the yams were
then knit into single jersey fabric to evaluate the physical and aesthetic characteristics of the
yams in a knitted fabric. The results of this work showed that yams spun on the Suessen RingCan
sliver-toyam system were comparable in quality to yams spun on a conventional ring spinning
frame, with some characteristics being better. Considering experimental limitations, and with
respect to the objectives of this thesis, the following general conclusions were derived: 1. The
quality characteristics of yarn spun on the Suessen RingCan frame are affected by total draft, but
the effect is sometimes influenced by the level of break draft and twist multiplier. 2. The quality
characteristics of -yarn spun on the SuessenRingCan frame are affected by break draft, but the
effect is sometimes influenced by the level of total draft and twist multiplier. 3. The quality
characteristics of yarn spun on the Suessen RingCan frame are affected by the level of twist
multiplier, but the effect is sometimes influenced by the level of total draft and twist multiplier.
4. In general, yarns spun on the Suessen RingCan frame are superior in quality to those produced
on a conventional ring spinning frame. (a) Comparisons made within twist levels showed the
100% combed cotton yarns were superior in strength, elongation, yarn appearance, evenness,
imperfections, shrinkage, and fabric appearance. The low twist sliver-to-yarn conditions were
superior to the high twist conventional conditions in appearance, evenness, imperfections and
fabric bursting strength. (b) Comparisons made within twist levels showed the 50150 combed
cotton yarns were superior in strength, elongation, evenness, imperfections, fabric appearance
and fabric bursting strength. The low twist sliver-to-yarn conditions were superior to the high
twist conventional conditions in strength, appearance, evenness, and imperfections.

Source: NCSU, www.itt.edu