Documenti di Didattica
Documenti di Professioni
Documenti di Cultura
BLOOD SPORE
Of murder and mushrooms
By Hamilton Morris
Hamilton Morriss last article for Harpers Magazine, I Walked with a Zombie, appeared in the November 2011 issue.
Page borders by Roderick Mills. Photography credits on page 56.
FOLIO 41
I
Stamets will be able
to help them find
fungal succor for their n August 1977 Gary Lincoff had not yet au-
human woes, and I thored the National Audubon Society Field
am, of course, no dif- Guide to North American Mushrooms, nor was
ferent. A man begins, he yet the president of the North American
in a somewhat accu- Mycological Association or the chair of their
satory tone, to inquire prestigious Mycophagy Committee. His first
as to why his black- book, Toxic and Hallucinogenic Mushroom Poi-
morel kit did not bear soning, was going to press that winter and, de-
fruit, to which Stamets reminds him there are no spite a lack of formal mycological training (he
guarantees of fruition, offers a diplomatic hand- held only a BA in philosophy), he was on his
shake, and turns to the next person in line, which way to becoming a world-class authority on
is me. I am hesitant to bring up the subject of Pol- bioactive mushrooms. He appeared profession-
lock in public, but the press of mycophiles on either al, wore a suit, and publicly discussed the hallu-
side of me leaves me no choice. I tell Stamets I have cinogenic varieties primarily in regard to modes
obtained the Pollock tape and I think I can solve of treatment for those who had consumed
the murder, in response to which his face changes. them. Yet he was part of a burgeoning group of
You know, Steve was assassinated by the police, mycologists whose interest in toxic mush-
he says, suddenly unaware of his surroundings. The rooms, particularly those of the genus Psilocybe,
dissatisfied morel-kit customer takes a extended to their possible therapeutic applica-
T
step backward toward the door. tions. It was in that summer of 1977 that Lin-
coff attended the Second International Myco-
he tape, heavy with hiss and wow and flutter, logical Congress in Tampa, Florida.
was as Davis described, a forty-five-minute con- Lincoff was particularly interested in a talk
versation between two men: one who appears to titled The Hallucinogenic Species of the Ge-
W
grow on the outskirts of Tampa. ing trampled. It was then that Pollock looked
down between them and noticed a solitary spec-
hile magic mushrooms were still obscure imen with an unusual appearance. It had a
throughout most of the world, Floridian farmers small, convex, caramel-colored cap undergirded
were some of the first to experience what Steven by gills of a purple hue and a long flexuous stem
Pollock would later call the psilocybian mush- that thickened ever so slightly at the base, where
room pandemic. A 1972 field guide warned pro- the faintest hint of indigo emerged like the vas-
spective mushroom hunters to culature beneath the skin of a human wrist.1
Pollock brought the mushroom back to his
[a]void registering the stock-reaction hippie in Winnebago laboratory, where he sterilized a
the natives of the areas explored. Probably the old
guise of mycology student will no longer serve as
scalpel, longitudinally bisected the specimen,
some peace officers will arrest any suspicious and excised a small piece of internal stem tissue
looking folks possessing field mushrooms regardless to culture on agar. On his journey back to San
of species. Antonio he observed a lens of mycelium slowly
spreading across the media, developing the color
To some farmers the mushrooms were perks of freshly torched crme brle. Weeks later Pol-
with entrepreneurial flair they issued special blue lock noticed something else in the dish: stitched
buckets for twenty-five dollars a day as a means across the mycelium were glistening granules un-
of formal Psilocybe-picking registration. But most like anything hed ever seen. Starting small, they
farmers response was one of hostility; some grew into gnarled, doorknob-size masses of
would wait patiently until after a rainstorm, bruised flesh, blue and turquoise and purple in
when the manure-loving mushrooms emerged, color. Pollock photographed them, dissected
and then ambush and brutally beat those tres- them, andobserving a long mycological
passing on their fields. Tensions had peaked the traditionhe ate them. They had not the
spring before Lincoff and Pollock visited, on the characteristic umami of fungi, but were nutty
other coast in Parkland, where two unarmed and tart, something like a mix of cashew and
men picking mushrooms under cover of night
were discovered by a police officer named Wil-
1
The mycologist Alan Rockefeller relates an alternative
version of the story that sees Pollock and Lincoff in the
liam Cobb, who shot them both in the back of pasture smoking a doob, which Pollock drops and then
the head. Cobb explained later in court that the finds resting at the base of a new mushroom species. Lin-
shots had been fired in self-defense. In a practice coff insists that this version is apocryphal.
FOLIO 43
P
choactive in man. environment becomes favorable for growth.
Forest fires are vital to the reproductive cycle
ollock called it the philosophers stone, and for morels, for example, which sometimes wait
the rock of ages, the cosmic camote, the super- a century or more for fire to initiate fruition.
fantastic megagalactic camotillo, and several other (Morels in turn inspire such gustatory lust
things, but what he had eaten is properly termed that laws had to be enacted in eighteenth-
a sclerotium. Not to be con- century Germany to prevent the peasantry
fused with bulbs, caudices, from burning down forests.) These fires were
corms, rhizomes, tubers, or oth- the only way to reliably produce morels, whose
er hypogeal swellings, the scle- indoor cultivation proved impossible.2
rotium is a structure unique to In the kingdom of fungi the sclerotium as-
fungi. Though frequently equat- sumes many forms. The Gogodala people of
ed with truffles (and in the case Papua New Guineas Western Province live on
of Psilocybe now marketed as a swampy alluvial soil completely devoid of the
psychedelic truffles), the scle- stones required to make hard tools; instead
rotiums function they seek out the mushroom Pleurotus tuber-
is fundamentally regium and carve its giant sclerotia into club
different: whereas heads carried on hunting expeditions and into
a truffle is a repro- battle. The dark purple tendrils that emerge
ductive structure from florets of ryegrass parasitized by ergot, the
that attracts ani- culprit for the medieval scourge of St. Antho-
mals who post- nys Fire, are also sclerotia, and it was the sys-
digestively dis- tematic study of ergot sclerotia by Albert Hof-
perse its spores, a man that resulted in the discovery of LSD.
sclerotium is a There is a parasitic Fibulorhizoctonia species
vegetative struc- that forms sclerotia capable of mimicking the
ture that serves size and shape of common termite eggs so ex-
no direct repro- actly that the termites nurture the sclerotia as
ductive purpose. If their own brood, tirelessly salivating on them
a given environ- to maintain their moisture. With fungi of the
ment cannot sup- genus Cordyceps, living caterpillars are mummi-
port the growth of a mushroom, the myceliuma fied by mycelium, gradually becoming rigid as a
cottony subterranean net made of totipotent cells sclerotium consumes their soft tissue, then
similar to animal stem cellsmay produce a scle- sends a stroma bursting forth from their head
rotium. The myceliums cellular threads bifurcate 2
It wasnt until 1981 that the first artificially grown mo-
and fuse with one another repeatedly, forming a rel was harvested. Ronald Ower, a graduate student at
densely interwoven clod that can survive indefi- San Francisco State University, achieved a breakthrough
nitely and give rise to a mushroom should envi- when he treated the sclerotia of the yellow morel with a
ronmental conditions improve. Save for the seed compound developed by Paul Stamets for growing psilo-
cybian mushrooms. It required an additional five years
and the spore itself there are few biological struc- of experimentation, cultivation, and ascus stroking be-
tures that rival the sclerotiums adamantine resil- fore he could file a patent for his technique, but Ower
ience; in certain species, sclerotia can survive be- never lived to see his work revolutionize the industry
ing desiccated to the point of combustibility, with grow kits and a lucrative contract from Dominos
Pizza: he was murdered in a robbery three months before
subjected to freezing temperatures, mired in acidic his patent was granted, his mangled body found in a
soils, and deprived completely of nutrients. Some park and identifiable only by the keys to his sclerotium
varieties quiesce for decades before sudden and lab and a gold maxillary central incisor.
I
tify its taxon. It could be carried in pockets and
taken on airplanes, and even increasingly
t is somewhat surprising that Pollock should mushroom-savvy law enforcement had abso-
have risen to prominence in the world of psy- lutely no idea what it was. Pollock wanted to
chedelic mushrooms through sober, pragmatic introduce his discovery to the world and had a
thinking. He strove to set himself apart from the long-nurtured vision of creating the first
zany hallucins and Psilocybe-panspermia theoriz- medicinal-mushroom research laboratory. P. tam-
ers of the 1970s with hard, evidence-based culti- panensis, it seemed, was his ticket.
vation techniques microcalibrated for optimized Recognizing the P. tampanensis sclerotiums
yields. In 1975, freshly graduated from the Medi- market potential, Pollock founded a company
cal College of Wisconsin, he felt most of his with a local mushroom fanatic named Michael
psychomycological peers were riffraff who sul- Forbes and another physician and called it Hid-
lied the field with their unscientific crackpottery. den Creek. In March 1979, within a month of
He took a position at the University of Texas incorporation, they began a campaign of month-
Department of Pharmacology and occupied his ly print advertisements in High Times featuring a
days with unremarkable biochemical investiga- seminude woman writhing in a macram shawl
tions, a residency in anesthesiology, studies on beneath the conical pileus of a hovering Psilo-
hepatic opioid metabolism, grant writing, and cybe cubensis. Michael Forbes told me, The first
the like. But he spent his nights absorbed with time I went to get the orders there physically
independent mushroom experimentation, test- wasnt enough room in the mailbox; we had to
ing thousands of species/substrate combinations move the operation out of my house and into a
in hopes of bringing facile mushroom cultivation factory by the San Antonio International Air-
into the homes of those untrained in microbiol- port. Virtually overnight we were netting fifty
ogy. It began with the Purina, then moved to grand a monththats almost three thousand
FOLIO 45
B
magic-mushroom vendor in the world.3 putes this, saying that Pollock never actually
conducted sclerotium experiments on autistic
ut Pollock yearned to propel himself be- children. He suggests instead that Pollock fabri-
yond the riffraff and into the pantheon of cated the experiments in an effort to gain support
alternative-medical greatness. He wanted AMA from the DEA to conduct officially sanctioned
validation, DEA licensure, researchone of many in-
FDA-approved clinical trials, stances of Pollocks using a
the first sclerotium R. I Pol- charlatans means to a doc-
lock wanted to be the man tors end.) In July 1979, Pol-
who not only brought mush- lock applied for a patent on
rooms into the darkened the sclerotia of his tampanen-
closets of clandestine cultiva- sis strain as a psychothera-
tors but also put them on peutic medicine and began
f luorescent-lit pharmacy sketching plans to build a
shelves. Doing so would of mycological superlab on hun-
course require nothing less dreds of acres of ranch land.
than a revolution in the Once he had acquired the
American medical establish- necessary funds he would
ment, but he was up to the quit his unfulfilling job as a
task.4 Those hoping to intro- pusher of synthetic psycho-
duce psychedelics into the pharmaceuticals and begin
pharmacopeia of allopathic medicineand researching natural medicines full-time. But
there have been severalhave always encoun- there were only two ways of making the money
tered a problem; they simply dont fit into a med- he needed to fund the lab: selling mushroom kits
ical paradigm where the betterment of already- and selling prescriptions, and so he began doing
well people is not considered a valid pursuit.5 both with newfound urgency.
3
Gray-market corporations generally do a poor job of The magic mushroom people who are always
maintaining detailed financial records. David Tatelman, keeping your mind in mind, Hidden Creeks eerie
founder of Hidden Creeks closest rival, Homestead slogan, ran across the pages of every major drug
Book Company, of Seattle, estimated Homesteads av- magazine, and Pollock funneled all the profits
erage yearly grow-kit revenue to be $275,000 during
Pollocks heyday, which would put Hidden Creek in the everything that has traditionally characterized an FDA-
lead by a large margin. approvable pharmaceutical. Whereas early research often
4
Such lofty ambitions could easily be dismissed as delu- suggested relatively flimsy benefits, such as reducing the
sional if it werent for the fact that Pollock was a bril- duration of the common cold or increasing the expectora-
liant and dedicated scientist; his colleague Kenneth tion of mucus, recent research has found serotonergic psy-
Blum recalled to High Times Pollocks drive to chedelics to act as potent anti-inflammatory agents and as
achieve medical greatness in a very traditional sense. stimulators of hippocampal neurogenesis. Psilocybin is an
Had Steve worn a tie, had short hair, worked under a alkaloid that bears strong resemblance to the neurotrans-
government grant at Harvard, and sold prescriptions to mitter serotonin, and so exerts its primary pharmacologi-
suburbanites, he would still be alive today. cal effect on multiple subtypes of serotonin receptors. It is
through such receptors that psilocybin both prevents cluster
5
Until recently, psychedelics werent believed to address headaches and induces its psychedelic effects. Although it
any somatic disordersthey generally exert their thera- has many commonalities with such psychedelics as mesca-
peutic effect after a single administration, and what exact- line and LSD, in recent years it has come to the forefront
ly they do is difficult to quantify, varying enormously from of medical research because of its high potency and the
person to person. In short, they stand in stark opposition to comparatively short duration of its effects.
I
page of HighWitness News. his office by several men. He walked a vanish-
ing line between criminality and medical
n 1980 some of the last great psychopharma- beneficencein a single day he could be ob-
ceuticals were on the road to FDA banishment served offering free treatment to the children of
FOLIO 47
P
feeding the addictions of others. He bartered un- was No.
usual mushroom specimens for Quaaludes and
planted an acre of cannabis that he planned to ollocks is a sedate neighborhood of near-
distribute throughout the country in sealed cook- identical ranch-style tract housesvarying in
ie tins around Christmastime. His erratic behav- color from cream to Creamsicle orange, built
ior strained or destroyed many of his personal re- between 1971 and 1972, with gabled roofs, soli-
lationships; Paul Stamets cut off communication tary elms, patio slabs, and wooden privacy
with him almost completely. Pollocks last letter to fencesonce punctuated by Pollocks outdoor
Stamets was an indignant plea for reconciliation mushroom beds, Winnebago laboratory, and
and help publishing micrographs of a novel vari- the streams of pimps, prostitutes, politicians,
ety of Psilocybe with a reticulated spore, but and speed freaks who frequented his office. Pol-
Stamets knew no amount of reticula- lock practiced medicine next door to the house
L
tion could repair their friendship. in which he lived, the two connected in back
by a large greenhouse: on the dexter he ate,
ast summer I flew to San Antonio to visit slept, and researched herbal medicines; on the
Pollocks office, stationing myself at the Red Roof sinister he ran his business as San Antonios
Inn SeaWorld, a lodging wholly impregnated with number-one Dr. Feelgood.
the smell of a lite-beer can repurposed as an ash- Peter Susca had advised his client to get an
tray full of pubic hair that is, in fact, nowhere examination table and physicians scale to give
near the citys SeaWorld. I began systematically his office an air of legitimacy. Were Pollock to
calling Pollocks friends and colleagues, as well as have worn a lab coat, yoked a stethoscope about
the detectives who were in charge of investigating his neck, and donned an elastic-banded head
his murder, hoping to hear intimations of conspir- mirror it wouldnt have been sufficient to save his
atorial activity, or investigatory negligence, mal- doctorly image, but he agreed nonetheless and
feasance, misfeasance, nonfeasancereally fea- on Saturday, January 31, 1981, brought an exam
sance of any kind. I wanted to begin with a visit table to his office. He was due back before the
to Gary Daviss house in nearby Nixon to speak Texas Medical Board in three weeks to hear
with him about the origin of the tape, but he was the outcome of an ongoing investigation into his
by his own admission preoccu- practice. Police officers had been examining
pied with having himself pharmacy dispensation records, finding around
checked in to a mental institu- 10,000 Quaalude tablets issued in his name at a
tion for a depressive phase of bi- single pharmacy. A hearing had been called the
polar disorder. Undeterred, I preceding Monday after two undercover SAPD
moved on to Pollocks girlfriend officers, working in conjunction with the medical
Mitzi, but her exact location board, had posed as patients and received liberal
was difficult to ascertain as she prescriptions for dexedrine following pro forma
had just been released from pris- examinations. Independently, DEA-sponsored
on after serving a ten-year sen- airplanes were making reconnaissance flights
tence for intoxication man- over Pollocks marijuana plantation near Twin
slaughter. Following Pollocks Sisters. A grand jury had been convened to try
death she had succumbed to Pollock for cannabis horticulture. The criminal
opioid addiction, lost a suit investigation and police surveillance had caused
against Pollocks estate to recov- enough disturbance that Pollocks secretary re-
er kitchen utensils and stereo fused to come to work, but Pollock had immedi-
equipment she claimed were her rightful property ately replaced her with Patti Halprin, at least the
as his common-law wife, and finally, while driving third secretary he had hired within a year.
her Saturn under the influence of methadone and The day seems to have been unremarkable:
Xanax, decapitated a pedestrian. Next I contact- Pollock dragged his newly purchased examina-
ed Pollocks attorney, Peter Susca, who greeted me tion table into his office and left it by the door
with the question How do I know you are who slightly askew, planning to assemble it later. Al-
you say you are? To which I could only respond though it was a Saturday, Pollock worked. He
that I was a stranger, unable to prove myself oth- worked seven days a week, starting at noon and
erwise. The detectives had long since retired from seeing patients until they stopped trickling in
the SAPD, and so I began the stiflingly awkward around six oclock, around thirty per day. Patti
T
Stamets knew Pollock was attempting to patent tered with blood.
P.tampanensis and he had found a reference he
thought might be helpful. Their conversation was he presence, absence, and orientation of ob-
repeatedly interrupted by calls on Pollocks other jects in a crime scene take on a glowing signifi-
line. Pollock told Stamets to call back collect, cance equaled only in places of worship. Pol-
knowing that his colleague, then a student at locks body was found in a corner beside the
Washingtons Evergreen State College, could not front door with a one-inch laceration on his
afford the long-distance charges. When Stamets forehead, his cream-colored sweater rumpled and
called back the line was busy. He called a third soaked with blood, the front of his jeans slit
time and Pollock picked up, and Stamets began to open, pocket linings inverted, with keys scat-
recite the articles title but Pollock interrupted him tered in a halo around his body. His right arm
to say he had to run and get a pencil to write it was bent, his left arm flush against his side with
down; by the time Pollock returned Stamets was several medium-length brown hairs entrained
exasperated. He began again to recite the title of around the fingers. His new examination table
the article, but Pollock interrupted him once more, lay between his body and a troop of twelve orna-
saying, Some patients have pulled up for treat- mental glass mushrooms arranged on a chest be-
ment, and then, Ill call you right back after they side the door. The house was ransacked
leave. Stamets protested. Pollock hung up. mattress flipped off the bed frame and pillows
Mitzi called Pollock repeatedly throughout the gutted, their stuffing strewn about the floor.
evening, but each call rang four times before go- The furnace door was flung open, the contents
FOLIO 49
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footprints in the Texas snow.6 burglar: Thats what I heard.
merchant: Shit, I didnt even know the turkey.
hen Sergeant Odis Doyal entered Pollocks I didnt have no reason to waste him.
mushroom greenhouse he found 1,753 quart jars burglar: Well I heard that supposedly a source
of growing magic mushrooms, what must then said that I went over there to rob him. So I
have been the largest mushroom bust in Ameri- didnt know himI never met him in my life.
So thats when I started digging around on the
can history. There were also ten pounds of desic- street. I cant ask any cops, but supposedly. . .
cated sclerotia, which had been specially prepared again it was a Castle Hills source that brought
by Pollock days before his death to be analyzed for it out.
new therapeutic alkaloids, as well as outdoor merchant: I tell you what, Id like to catch the
mushroom beds, Queenline jars filled with purple source cause Id like to bring a lawsuit.
honey, innumerable agar slants and spore prints, burglar: We might be able to get down to the
and several sacks containing the methodically la- source, I dont know.
beled manure of exotic ungulates. Pollocks es- merchant: Well let me know if you find out,
tranged father, a real estate developer from L.A., goddamn.
knew little of his sons research and, arriving in
Though Hancock vividly remembers snowfall, not a sin-
T
6
FOLIO 51
O
he was allowed to spend nights in the labora- viss mothers house.
tory and sleep on the waterbed that was used
to relax subjects during experiments. In 1977 n March 5, 1983, following up on a con-
he was helping the psychologist Harvey Gins- fidential informants tip, Detective Anton
burg evaluate THCs potential for reducing ag- Michalec interviewed a man named Virgil
gression in the Mongolian gerbil, an animal Lyssy who had reported that two of his
known for its infanticidal and cannibalistic friends had openly bragged about killing Pol-
tendencies. Davis had the idea of modifying lock. Lyssy, a former fireman dismissed be-
the experiment to examine how psilocybin af- cause of a methamphetamine conviction,
fected gerbil aggression and so consulted the lived with his cousin Arthur Lenz, a meth-
local universitys mushroom expertSteven amphetamine dealer, in northern San Anto-
Pollockto ask which psilocybin salt was best nio. Lyssy insisted that the detectives, having
suited to intraperitoneal injection. The psilo- taken his statement, mention to his room-
cybin gerbil experiments never materialized, mates that they were investigating a brawl in
but Pollock and Davis became, if not friends, which he had recently injured his arm.
close enough for Davis to recall that Pollock Alone in his bedroom Lyssy began to confess.
should have learned to use deodorant and In 1981 he had lived in the Green Oaks
may have had a glandular problem. apartment complex with two other men, Er-
By 1980 Davis was an abnormal-psychology nest Dietzmann and Jerry Baker, all three
lecturer at Texas State in San Marcos and was drug-dependent regular patients of Pollocks.
Together they had created a survivalist pri-
10
Johnson was indeed not questioned in the police report, vate army in which Lyssy was the cook.
despite his being mentioned as a suspect in multiple state-
ments from Pollocks associates. Detectives did subpoena Dietzmann was a disabled Vietnam veteran
Pollocks phone records, but only obtained the call log for and gun collector who car ried a semi-
the month up to January 27, four days before the murder. automatic shotgun and a 9mm Uzi subma-
FOLIO 53
P
subterranean bureaucratic thallus.13 of first learning to recognize mushrooms, which is
that ones entire life up to that point has been
erhaps part of what has earned fungi their spent attentionally blind to something that is ev-
aura of mystery is the way they appear and dis- erywhere and always around us. Perhaps it is this
appear without warning, thwarting attempts to realization, and the corollary fear of continuing to
accurately chart the geographic distribution of overlook the obvious, that drives some myco-
all but the most common species. Its body is hid- philes to such hallucinatory heights of fantasy, to
den within the soil as an undifferentiated myce- a state of unremitting vigilance, eyes perpetually
lial thallus, and what we see and call a mush- narrowed, minds bent on finding the precious
room is a reproductive organwhat the fruit others squash under heel and haunted by the
ethnobotanist Terrence McKenna, speaking knowledge that no matter how hard they look
from the point of view of a fungus, called the something will always have escaped them.
part of my body given to sex thrills and sun It was in a short comb-bound book entitled
bathing. In 1996, an attendee of the Telluride The Golden Doorknob (2001) that Stephen L.
Mushroom Festival discovered a single specimen Peele delineated twenty years of research he had
of a new mushroom named Psilocybe telluridensis, been conducting on the history and cultivation
and in fifteen years of searching another speci- of P.tampanensis sclerotia. Peele was one of a few
men has never been found. Psilocybe alboquadra- post-Pollock psychomycophiles to work at pre-
ta was observed once, in Zanzibar, in 1885, and serving the worlds diversity of psychoactive
is now known only by a watercolor. In a recent mushrooms outside state and academic institu-
lecture, Paul Stamets solemnly declared that Psi- tions, in a Pensacola-area trailer home hed con-
locybe baeocystis had disappeared from North verted into a fungarium. Peele, a former police
America and was thought to be extinct, only to officer from Virginia, used his law-enforcement
be interrupted by an audience member who said background to obtain a coveted Schedule I per-
he knew of a patch that came up every year in mit that allowed him to grow and research feder-
the parking lot of a Bay Area Burger King. ally controlled mushrooms. In 1984, three years
But one should not assume it is rarity that after Pollocks death, he began writing frequent
makes fungi mysterious, because once the eye updates on his P. tampanensis experiments for
is properly trained they begin to appear the Journal of Mushroom Cultivation, of which he
everywherebracketed on stumps, nestled in was the editor in chief. With a monopoly on
P.tampanensis he sold cultures of the mushroom
13
For Michael Forbes, the central piece of evidence was for $510, a bargain relative to the $45,000 that
not inside the office but directly outside: located on the some had appraised as its value. Peele declared
right of the exterior surface of the door there should have tampanensis the rarest mushroom in the world
been a doorknob, yet on the night of the murder the knob
was nowhere to be found. Forbes has spent the better part and wrote with unrestrained schadenfreude that
of thirty years polishing this theory until it shines with a even Paul Stamets has lost his culture! Still, he
singular importance. The crime-scene photographs clearly was able to sell the species only half a dozen
depict an empty hole, the product of a knob and spindle times. In the late 1980s he began to wonder
avulsed entirely from the door. But the true significance
was lost on journalists: they mistook the doors knobless- whether it would be possible to reintroduce a
ness, caused by the emergency medical personnel who functionally extinct species by laying giant out-
bludgeoned their way into the crime scene with a tire iron, door plots of manure and inoculating them with
for an indication of forced entry by Pollocks killers, whom tampanensis spawn. He hoped the spores would
they imagined prying open the door and breaking off the travel north on the prevailing winds but became
knob or ripping the knob off the front door (at their
most circumspect, they simply noted that the knob was discouraged when the mushroom remained un-
missing). Yet Pollock never locked his door while work- reported in the wild. Rightly suspecting that his
ing. On the off chance that Pollock had locked his door, mushroom license was on the verge of revoca-
removing the knob wouldnt have facilitated entrythe tion and fearing that the government might
door was visibly outfitted with a dead bolt. Forbes has no
doubt the knob was intact when the murderers entered, burn his mushroom collection, he exported a
and suggests that the door was deknobbed in a final coup live culture to a European fungus library.
de thtre, staging the forced entry that so many mistook On June 4, 1995, stratospheric oscillations and
as fact. But were the actors in this crime in fact actors? abnormally warm ocean temperatures in the At-
Was the medical stage of Pollocks office, with its ostenta- lantic suggested that a season of extreme weather
tiously displayed controlled-substance-dispensary permits
and prop examination table, the scene of a premeditated might be imminent. An official warning was is-
contract killing organized by metastagers to appear as the sued to residents of Pensacola, advising them to
disorganized crime of deranged Quaalude addicts? evacuate and take shelter inland. While his neigh-
A
in Alabama and southern Georgia. Inside the sclerotium-packaging facility, located
in the bucolic pastures of Hazerswoude-Dorp
twenty-nine-year-old schizophrenic amid verdant fields of ruminating Holsteins and
Frenchman living in Amsterdam did not pre- pert tulips, I watch a woman with a food-service
dict he would bring Pollocks research back to bun and a magic truffles belly shirt smoke a
the forefront of psychomycology when, in 2007, cigarette while weighing out ten-gram servings
he ritualistically dismembered his dog in a van of tampanensis sclerotia with an affect better
beside the Herengracht in order to free its suited to the ladling of mac n cheese onto
spirit. Employing a technique he claimed to be school-cafeteria trays. The brothers estimate
of Moroccan origin, he slit his dogs throat, tore their annual output capacity at nearly 20,000
open its chest cavity, and spread its entrails all tons, a quantity large enough to necessitate the
over his naked body. When discovered by po- use of a forklift in shuttling the product as it is
lice he explained his behavior by telling them being processed. Standing outside, one brother,
that he had consumed mushrooms. This, along Murat Kucuksen, a father of two with blue suede
with the putatively mushroom-related bridge- shoes and a shock of white hair, tells me that
jumping death, that same year, of a comely tampanensis is their biggest seller. At every smart
French tourist named Gaelle Caroff, provided the shop in Amsterdam images of their mascot, a
media impetus to pass the 2008 Dutch mushroom blue truffle hog named Mr. Truffles, can be seen
ban. Protesters stormed the parliament building advertising their product alongside G-strings and
armed with Super Soakers filled with a Psilocybe promotional flyers for parties with such titles as
spore solution, threatening to inoculate the lawns f me ive truffles ibiza. The sclerotium, a
of government buildings all over the city. One structure that exists to carry the fungus through
hundred and eighty-six species were prohibited, inhospitable environments, has done
O
five of which were inactive edibles included in er- its job remarkably.
ror, but the ban made one important omission: in
no place did it mention sclerotia. n my last day in San Antonio I work up the
Overnight the sclerotium became the hottest courage to visit Pollocks office and knock on the
propagule in the Netherlands. Two Turkish en-
trepreneurs who now dub themselves the Truffle 14
Though the Dutch government did mandate the de-
Brothers had first obtained a tampanensis culture struction of all remaining mushrooms, on this occasion
no fire was employed. The Truffle Brothers recall that
from a sample Steven Peele sent to a European disposing of their stock was the easy part, with
library and had been casually experimenting psychomycophiles lining up around their farm ready to
with the species since the mid-1990s, but the consume every last specimen they had to offer.
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