Technical Article

Defects and Quality Optimisation of Core-spun

Yarn Containing Spandex
SUBRATA KUMAR SAHA
Lecturer
Dept. of Textile Technology
Ahsanullah University of Science and Technology, Dhaka, Bangladesh

ABSTRACT
Filament-core yarns are produced to take advantage of both filament and staple fibre properties. They offer good
strength and uniformity without sacrificing the staple fibre yarn-like surface characteristics. Core-spun yarns
containing spandex provide fabric designers with broad possibilities, because such stretchable yarns can be
constructed with a wide range of properties using virtually any type of hard fibres as the cover yarn. However, a
disadvantage of the core yarns is that the staple fibre sheath may slip along the filament when being pulled to pass
over or when being rubbed by machine parts during further mechanical processes. But it is very easy to produce
core-spun yarn containing spandex in a conventional ring frame after doing some modification of the machine. By
taking some measure it is possible to make good quality core-spun yarn containing spandex.

INTRODUCTION:
Core-spinning is a process by which fibres are twisted around an existing yarn, either filament or staple spun yarn, to
produce a sheath-core structure in which the already formed yarn is the core. Core-spun yarns are two-component
structure with Core and sheath. Generally continuous filament yarn is used as core and the staple fibres used as sheath
covering.
The chief aim of using core yarn is to take advantage of the different properties of its both
components; the filament improves yarn strength and also permits the use of lower twist
level, while the sheath provides the staple fibre yarn appearance and surface physical
properties. The technique for the preparation of core-spun yarn is very simple and the
selection of core and cover materials can be made from a variety of fibres with
predetermined end use. Nylon and polyester continuous filament are the common core
material.

Methods for production of Core-spun yarns:

The production of Core-spun yarns done successfully by many spinning systems. Each
system has its own features. Probable methods of core-spun yarn production are below:
1. Conventional core spinning attachment with ring spinning systems
1. S.R.R.C Core wrap spinning method
2. A.R.S. Patterned Spinning system
3. Core-twin spinning system
4. Composite electrostatic spinning system
5. Rotor spinning system
6. Friction spinning system and
7. Air jet spinning system

Elastomeric fibres have been around for over 40 years. With advancements in production techniques, elastomeric fibres
are widely and diversely used in manufacturing textile products, and such textiles have been well received by the market.
Core-spun yarns containing spandex provide fabric producers with broad possibilities, because such stretchable yarns
can be produced with a wide range of properties using virtually any kind of staple fibre as the cover material. The basic
requirement to produce an elastic core-spun yarn is to stretch an elastane yarn before it enters the spinning frame. This
action provides elasticity in the final yarn by retraction of the elastane core when stress is removed, thus compaction and
bulking the spun yarn cover. The core-spun yarn can be extended to the point where the non elastic cover yarn is
stretched to its limit, thus resisting further extension of the core-spun yarn. Elastic core-spun yarns are usually made on
cotton, worsted or woollen spinning systems.

Properties of spandex:
Core-spun yarns containing Spandex provide fabric designers with broad possibilities, because such stretchable yarns
can be constructed with a wide range of properties using virtually any type of "hard" fibres as the cover yarn. LYCRA is
the registered trademark for DuPont's elastane yarn of coalesced filament with high stretch and recovery power. Spandex
yarn or lycra has variable properties which ensure its high utility as the core in elastic core-spun yarn. These include:
1. High modulus (power at stretch)
2. Fine and very fine yarn counts
3. Capacity to heat set
4. Clear, dull and bright lusters
5. Capacity to dye, if required

Conventional Spinning frame modification:

To produce elastic core-spun yarns conventional spinning frames must be modified with a positive feed-roller system.
"V" groove guides to feed Spandex yarn to the front roller under controlled, uniform stretch and proper position relative
to the "hard" fibre roving.

Basic requirements to produce core-spun yarn containing spandex:

1. Uniform, high quality roving.

2. Spinning draft below 30.
3. Accurately adjusted rings and travellers and plumbed (aligned) spindles.
4. Maintained spinning aprons, drafting rollers and cost strictly.
5. Replaced slipping or worn gears and sprockets.
6. Excellent cleaning devices to prevent fly deposits
7. Sufficient light to easily detect any breaks of the extremely fine spandex yarns.

Spandex is a continuous filament yarn. It must be handled carefully to prevent damage. Spandex tubes should not be
bumper, thrown or mishandled in any away. Care in unpacking is required to avoid scuffing the shoulders.

Draft Control:
This mechanism consists of 2 positively driven feed rollers (Fig - 3) that serve as a cradle for the tubes of spandex to
deliver the yarn at predetermined feed rollers can be adjusted to give the desired draft or stretch ratio. A suitable
arrangement for drafting and spinning with spandex on cotton system is shown in Fig - 4.

Feed roller:
Smooth surface rollers must be used to give adequate yarn to surface friction so that slippage is
minimized at the contact points with the yarn tubes. Chrome plated steel rollers are preferred for
smoothness, but other type can be used, such as electrical conduit, aluminium, stainless steel or
PVC tubing. To prevent draft back feed rollers diameters should be large enough to allow yarn
to contact at least 90 mm of roller surface after leaving the tube. Roller diameters of 60 mm to
100 mm are recommended to ensure adequate surface contact. The feed rollers can be located
on the frame either above or below the roving creel.

Package spacer:
Spacers must be used to prevent the yarn tubes from mowing horizontally along the feed roller. Figure-6 shows a cotton
spinning frame conversion into a corespinning system.

Core-spun yarn defects:

A serious defect can occur in core spun yarns is "sheath voids", which is characterized by length of spandex yarn without
covering. Such defects are caused by breaks in the hard-fibre roving as it is fed from the front drafting roller while the
spandex yarn end continues to run. At the point of the break the "Pneumafil" unit or the scavenger rollers pick up the
fibre until the spandex yarn and roving again combine themselves to continue core spinning. This result in a "sheath
voids" even though the end appears to be spinning continuously.

Other common problem with core-spun yarns made in a ring spinning frame is the slippage of the staple fibres relative to
the filament, which haves a length of bare filament with a clump of fibre in one end. This effect is known as 'strip-back'.
This fault may lead to incomplete core coverage and results in end breakage in subsequent processing. A high level of
twist is normally needed to build up the necessary cohesion between the sheath and the core components. The high twist
reduces the production speed and thereby increase the production cost.

Process and quality control:

Alignment with roving:

The core must be positively and selectively positioned with respect to the roving as it is fed to the front roller and the
correct alignment must be maintained throughout spinning. This should be ensured otherwise it may result:
1: Core voids.
2: Ply twisting of spandex and roving with consequent variable yarn bulk.
3: Grin-through.

Traveller:
A heavier traveller must be used in core spinning than would be required in spinning an equivalent yarn number from
hard fibre, to prevent contraction of the core yarn and non uniform bulking of the cover yarn. The traveller must not be
so heavy; however that it places excessive drag on the yarn at the ring.

Drafting aprons:
Drafting aprons should be adjusted to deliver the roving to the bottom front drafting roller directly below the nip.

Grin-through:
This defect is an incomplete covering of the core of spandex and caused by improper position of the core versus roving,
forming a large 'V' between the core and roving under the front roller. By adjusting the core and roving fed position this
effect can be controlled.

Level of twist:
Lighter twist than those used in conventional yarns provides better cover in core spun yarn. High twist spinning will
break up the yarn twist to the nip of the front roller, increase hard yarn tension and improve coverage of the core yarn.
The exact twist should be chosen by considering yarn number, fibre type and the intended end use.

Twist setting:
Twist levels should be on the high side, it is often necessary to set twist of the core-spun yarn to prevent snarling;
however the twist should be set at low temperatures to maintain the physical properties of the spandex core. Steaming at
650 to 750C in saturated steam has proven satisfactory to set twist of lively yarns. The steaming time depends on the size
of the steamed bobbins and on the performance of the available heat set machine.

Draft of spandex:
The drafts in core-spinning depend on the type, the decitex and the pre-stretch of spandex. The real, total draft (TD) of
the spandex core in a spun yarn includes both the gear draft (GD, machine draft) and the winding pre-stretch of the
spandex yarn on its tube. The draft of the spandex core in the spun yarn is always higher than the gear draft (GD) applied
in the spinning frame.

The optimum output (spinning speed) of good core yarn can not be reached by setting low number of turns per meter and
highest drafts. There is a limit to spindle speed for every draft depending on the staple applied in the cover, yarn count
and its twist factor. There are also limits concerning the traveller speed. For better result the traveller speed should not
exceed 26 m/sec in spinning with spandex with cotton. The choice of the highest draft for the optimum production
should also take into account the end use of the core-spun yarn and its performance in the subsequent process - knitting
or weaving and garment wear.

Spandex storage time:

The best performance of spandex in spinning is obtained with a relatively fresh yarn. Thus, mill storage time of spandex
tubes should not exceed:
# 4 month of age for 44 decitex
# 6 month of age for 78 to 156 decitex spandex yarn

For the optimum processing of spandex it is recommended the following point:

# avoid an excess of yarn stock
# place order for no more than 4 to 6 weeks production needs
# apply the "first in- first out" stock turnover

Conclusion:
Most of the core-spun yarn defects can be controlled by machine operators. Usually defects are found at the beginning or
end of the yarn tube or where a break is replaced on a spinning frame. Operators should inspect the yarn carefully from
the spinning bobbin when knotting and ensure good core-spun yarn is being used to repair the break. Fault free core-spun
yarn is desirable to everyone. Good quality core-spun yarn containing spandex production is possible by considering
above mentioned quality parameter.

Reference

1. Chidambaram Rameshkumar, Production and properties of core-spun yarn, Department of Textile Technology,
Bannari Amman Institute of Technology, Sathyamangalam.

2. A. Pourahmad, M. S. Johari, Production of core spun yarn with ring & siro spinning system, Textile department,
Amirkadir University of Techonology, Tehran, Iran.

3. Ching-Iuan Su and Hsiao-Ying Yang, Structure and Elasticity of Fine Elastomeric Yarns, Textile Research Journal
2004; 74; 1041

4. Ching-Iuan Su, Meei-Chyi Maa and Hsiao-Ying Yang, Structure and Performance of Elastic Core-Spun Yarn, Textile
Research Journal 2004; 74; 607

5. Caipo core-spun yarn machine manual.

6. Michael Smith, Spinning soft core yarn on ring spinning machine, Spinnovation No. 24-07-2008