Sew Now 7

NEW!
ESSENTIAL SKILL BUILDERS: SEAMS MADE SIMPLE WORK WITH LARGE PRINTS
IN UK
IN UK
SIZES
SIZES
6-20
6-20
6LOOKS
G Y O U R S T Y L E , Y O U R WAY
SEWIN
brand-new A-LINE SKIRT TO

MAKE TODAY!
youll love to wear

Q U IC K
PRETTY IN PINK: MAKE!
Find the perfect

shade to suit you
SOCIAL
YOUR
2-IN-1
PATTERN
SEWING
Boost your skills &
make new friends! GET CREATIVE
Upcycled bag
in easy steps
JAPANESE-INSPIRED
DESIGNER CUSHION
96 STYLISH
IDEAS
expert tips & inspiring
new fashion trends to try
ISSUE 7 UK 5.99
FUN & COSY www.sewnowmag.co.uk
ON-TREND
WELLY INSERTS
RUFFLE BLOUSE
SN07.P01.indd 1 28/03/2017 17:03

SN07.P02.indd 2 23/03/2017 12:36
WELCOME
Hello 14
The spring sunshine brings out mixed emotions in me. I enjoy
the lighter, brighter nights and warmer days, but more time
spent outside means less time spent behind my machine. In
order to have the best of both worlds I am going to choose
to make simple yet stylish garments, and this issue has plenty
that can go from cutting table to caf terrace in no time!
This months free pattern, the Kwik Sew K3955 apron
dress (page 14) is as simple as they come, but also offers
38
the perfect weekend style. Challenge yourself with pattern
placement when making your apron dress Alison Smiths
expert tutorial (page 74) will guide you through all you need
for professional results.
Adding volume to clothes is high on the fashion agenda and
our ruffle blouse (page 24) has on-trend detail that oozes
pared-back elegance. In contrast, the clean lines of the A-line
skirt (page 38) make this a simple-to-sew project that is
delightful to wear, with ever-so-useful deep pockets. If youre
revisiting your summer wardrobe for the season ahead, keep
an eye out for tops that would work with our top refashion
(page 32) an excellent way to update your wardrobe!
Weve three great bag projects to choose from this issue. The
bright and beautiful saddle bag (page 50) showcases a
use for webbing tape you might not have considered, while
the ikat bag (page 46) offers a creative upcycling project.
For those of you who like to craft on the go, take a look the
delicious Tangerine Tote (page 62).
Our adorable boot liners (page 82) are lots of fun to
sew and you can involve the kids too! Our baby blanket
and taggie set (page 70) makes a gorgeous gift for a new
baby make it in snuggly polar fleece and soft cotton for a
truly luxurious present.
As usual weve hot new patterns and fabric, style ideas,
interviews and plenty of skills and techniques guides to
improve your sewing. So find a spot in the spring sunshine,
50 take a break and relax with your copy of Sew Now, enjoying
the best of both worlds!
Sam
Editor
sam.sterken@practicalpublishing.co.uk
32
SHARE YOUR THOUGHTS
Wed love to hear your thoughts
about Sew Now.
Find and follow us on:
www.facebook.com/sewnowmag
www.twitter.com/sewnowmag
www.instagram.com/sewnowmag
70
www.pinterest.com/sewnowmag
WWW.SEW NOW MAG .C O.UK 3
SN07.P03.indd 3 28/03/2017 16:08

INSIDE THIS ISSUE OF
14
GET YOUR
NEXT 3 ISSUES
FOR JUST 6
Turn to page 60 for
details on how
to subscribe!
24
46
REGULARS
6 NEWS
Whats new in sewing
26 THINK PINK
The colour of the season find 44 HOW TO MAKE A CURTAIN
Step-by-step guide to
10 HOT OFF THE PRESS

New releases from The Fold Line
your way to wear pink! finishing curtains
19 ANGELINE MURPHY
Angeline shares how she finds time
34 WORK IT OUT
Meet Becca Johnson of plus-size
brand Personal Record
64 SUSTAINABLE TAILORING
How to shorten cuffed trousers
to sew now shes a mum
43 PATTERN REVIEW 74 FINISHING SCHOOL

Alison Smith shares her expert
58 READERS MAKES
What youve been sewing this month
Simple Sew Charlotte Dress tried
and tested
advice on pattern placement
81 TEAM TALK
Find out whats new on the Sew 98 BACK-PAGE BLOGGER
We chat with Fiona Parker
93 SEWING KNOW-HOW
Basic stitches explained
Now teams radar
TUTORIALS
94 MASTER YOUR MACHINE
Find out what all the buttons and
90 SEWING WORKSHOPS
Learn new skills and make new friends
22 SKILL BUILDER
Choosing the right seams with
functions mean
Jeanette Archer PROJECTS

FEATURES
20 SEWING START UP
We get to know fashion brand 32 LACE AND FLOWERS TOP
Combine two tops for a
14 FREE BUTTERICK
DRESS PATTERN
Take your pick from two easy-make,
Firecrest Mode unique new look easy-wear dresses
www.facebook.com/sewnowmag www.twitter.com/sewnowmag www.instagram.com/sewnowmag www.pinterest.com/sewnowmag
4 WWW.S E WNOW M AG .CO.U K
SN07.P04-05.indd 4 28/03/2017 18:11

CONTENTS
66
MEET THE TEAM
Editor Deputy Editor
Sam Bethany
Stylist Seamstress
82
56
Jo Jeanette
Editorial Assistant
SKILL LEVEL
GUIDE
Beginner
Adventurous
beginner
Jenny
Intermediate
17 Advanced
24 RUFFLE BLOUSE
Sew the spring trend with this 70 BABY BLANKET AND TAGGIE
Gorgeous set for a new arrival
WIN AND SAVE!
elegant ruffle blouse

43 SAVE 5 on the Simple Sew
Charlotte Dress pattern
38 PENNY POCKET A-LINE SKIRT 76 UNISEX KIMONO

Sew a relaxed-fit Kimono with ease
Functional and flattering
87 BUMPER OFFER claim 20%
off fabric at Dragonfly Fabrics
summer skirt
82 FOREST FOLK BOOT LINERS
Fun and furry friends to put a smile
AND 20% off Prym tools at Jaycotts
46 RENEGADE IKAT BAG

Use your creative skills and sew
an upcycled bag
on kids faces
89 WIN a capsule wardrobe of
patterns from Sewing Belle
INSPIRATION
50 BRIGHT STRIPE SADDLE BAG

Make a statement with these 17 WEAR IT WITH
One dress with four strikingly
96 WIN A Vlieseline bundle
WORTH 275!
bold stripes different looks
56 JAPANESE FLOWER CUSHION

Kaffe Fassetts bright blooms 30 SHOP IT OR SEW IT
Nautical-style inspiration
48 CHALLENGE ACCEPTED
Join a social media sewing challenge
62 TANGERINE TOTE
Spacious oilcloth tote for your 37 STYLE FILE
Pared-back, earthy tones with a
55 GET THE LOOK
Painterly printed fabric
craft supplies simple silhouette

79 ARTIST'S STUDIO
Artistic home inspiration
66 LAUNDRY BAG
Duffle-style laundry bag
featuring eyelets
41 CHERRY-PICKED FABRIC
Specially selected fabric to suit
every style 85 SHOPPING INSPIRATION
Big softies sewing
SN07.P04-05.indd 5 28/03/2017 18:11

Dress
V I L LAG E H A B E R DAS H E RY with
MAK ES A M OVE
The Village Haberdashery has gotten a whole lot sense
bigger with the launch of its brand-new London Creating a sustainable
home on 3rd March. Sew Now designer Jenny wardrobe is an
Collins, better known as Ginger Cwtch, joined important part of
the VIP party, along with crowd-funding investors, hand-sewing your own
key helpers and tutors, and chatted to owner clothes, which is why
Annie Barker to find out what inspired the style we were really excited
of the new venue. to spot this new book,
Annie, influenced by Anthropologie, said Dress with Sense: The
she was determined to create a space that Practical Guide to a
enables creativity for everyone. Packed Conscious Closet.. Written by environmental
with curated collections of fabric, yarns NGO Redress, it offers advice on buying
and crafting supplies, the shop is not only environmentally friendly garments, how to
welcoming, but inspiring and beautiful. inject new life into your wardrobe, as well as
The eclectic timetable offers something for invaluable fabric care suggestions. The book
everyone, from textiles and yarns to paper also recommends how to swap and upcycle
and calligraphy workshops. To find out more clothes when theyre no longer part of your
about the new launch and the latest classes, capsule wardrobe. Sounds right up our street!
visit www.thevillagehaberdashery.co.uk Published by Thames & Hudson, 14.95.
Dont forget to check out Jennys home-sewn Available from www.thamesandhudson.com
Jenny and Annie
creations at www.gingercwtch.folksy.com
WHATS NEW?
The products, patterns and events on our radar this month
PLAY TIME! Minttu swing top

and Ninni elasticed
Embrace summer with the new waist culottes
Playground collection from Named Sizes UK 4-22
Clothing. Designed by Finnish
sisters Saara and Laura Huhta, it
combines the clean-lined simplicity
of Scandinavia with the practicality
of childrenswear. Easy to wear,
each of the eight new patterns
brings together the comfort of
loungewear, with feminine cuts
to create a capsule wardrobe of
instant classics! PDF pattern prices
start at 10 (approximately 8.66).
Take a peek at the new collection
at www.backstitch.co.uk
Maisa denim jacket and

Reeta midi shirtdress Helga wrap playsuit
Sizes UK 4-22 Sizes UK 4-18
SN07.P06-08.indd 6 28/03/2017 16:11

NEWS
SWAP T IL L The Loftspace Studio, Marsden

YO U D R OP !
Feeling inspired by our
clothes swap guide in
issue 6? If youre anything
like us then you probably
also have a lot of crafty
supplies and materials you
wouldnt mind swapping
too! On 20th May in West
London, theres a big
craft swish happening
where you can swap
your unwanted materials,
including everything from sewing books to yarn and
papercraft tools. Its only 5 and you get a free cream tea
and the chance to win a goody bag too. To book tickets
and find out more, visit www.christchurchw4.com/craftswish
SEW
DIFFERENT
Set in the beautiful
Yorkshire village of
Marsden, Sew Different is
giving you a chance to
indulge in some serious
sewing time! There two
upcoming retreats offer
you the chance to
escape from the 9 to
5 and create a stylish
new garment with the help of Sew Different designer Laura
Casey and tuition from experienced sewing teacher Donna over
three days. Tour the famous nearby Fabworks Mill shop, pick
out your fabric, enjoy delicious local food, cut your pattern and
construct it with help from the expert tutors and support from
the other participants. Designed for all abilities, from beginners
to intermediate sewists, this could be the perfect way to relax
and sew, while combining a little bit of rural sightseeing too.
Plus, youll get a free goody bag and a 25% discount on Sew
Different patterns. The first retreat takes place 23rd 25th June,
Rock the kasbah with a second on 15th 17th September. To book your place,
visit www.sewdifferent.co.uk
Take a trip to the foothills of the Atlas mountains with the
exotic new Marrakesch fabric collection from Gtermann.
Combining mosaic motifs and bold paisley prints, this colourful TRO PIC AL
range is ideal for quilts, cushions, throws and table runners.
There are 36 designs altogether, which are available for 17.95
C RUSH
You know were looking ahead
per metre, as well as fat quarter bundles and co-ordinated
to holiday season when we
ribbon, cord and buttons so theres certainly a lot of options
cant stop looking at pineapple
to play with! To see the full collection and find your nearest
prints! This Pineapple Party
stockist, visit www.gutermann.com or email gutermann@
printed cotton poplin would
stockistenquiries.co.uk
look stunning on a summer
skirt, shirtdress, blouse or even
as a striking beach bandana.
4.99 per metre from
www.fabricland.co.uk
SN07.P06-08.indd 7 28/03/2017 16:11

M A R C H
Jeans and T-shirts
T
his months theme could almost
have been renamed Ginger Jeans
and T-shirts, based on the number
of these that have been shared!
The Ginger Jeans appear to be a go-to
for seamstresses and sewing bloggers, so
its no wonder that this months giveaway
has come from the home of Gingers;
Closet Case Patterns. I too must admit
to being part of the Ginger tribe
Laura
now, having made a black pair
of mid-rise skinnies for my own
#wardrobebuilder.
Lara Liz went for the double
this month, making an Ebony
Tee and a pair of Ginger Jeans Vogue 1536 Vogue 9160
too. She used the online class Tom & Linda Platt
to make her jeans and found
the videos helpful. I didnt use
the class myself but I did use COCKTAIL OCLOCK
the sew-along, tutorials and free
The McCall Pattern Company has launched an exciting new
downloads (a lot) to help make
campaign to not only encourage you to show off your sewing
my jeans successful.
creativity, but also to help support a worthwhile charity. As
A few of us were nervous
part of the Cocktail Hour campaign, 20 designs have been
about tackling jeans; all those complicated parts and
chosen from the Vogue Patterns range, including something
topstitching. I was anticipating fitting to be a problem but was
for all abilities and styles, from trouser suits to party dresses.
pleasantly surprised that there werent many alterations required
For each pattern sold a percentage will go to the Eve Appeal,
(thank you, stretch fabric!). Using co-ordinating top-stitching
a charity that supports research into womens gynaecological
thread also made life a little
cancers. You can hold your own Eve Appeal cocktail party
easier.
too, or head to one of the organised events. Theres even an
T-shirts were the other
official cocktail! Where do we sign up?
half of this months theme,
To find out more, take a look at the exclusive supplement
a much quicker
which accompanied issue 37 of our sister magazine Love
project than
Find out Sewing or look up your nearest event at www.sewdirect.com
jeans in
most cases! more
I never about the
challenge on
considered
page 48
refashioning,
but Lina from
@sewhistorically
added a lot of advice on
how to do this, including
a lace insert tutorial for
T-shirts; perfect for stash
busting.
April looks to be
Allie J made Ginger Jeans a popular month for
and a Chalk and Notch #wardrobebuilders. The
Waterfall Raglan Tee
theme is dresses and theres
also a chance to win a pattern from The Avid Seamstress too.
Where my girls at?
Dont forget to add your makes to the link up as you go. We Machine-embroidered patches are here to stay for summer
love seeing them! and you can dress up your denim with this bold girl gang
Check out the schedule at www.thepetitepassions.com and motif. Simply iron-on and go!
share your makes with the hashtag #wardrobebuilder Get yours for 3 from www.cherrydiva.co.uk
SN07.P06-08.indd 8 28/03/2017 16:11

SN07.P09.indd 9 23/03/2017 12:37
HOT-OFF-THE-PRESS
PATTERNS
From gorgeous dresses to cosy knits, every
one of the Fold Lines new picks has a place
in your wardrobe! Kate Rachel
Sizes UK 6-12, 12-20

8092 Paper pattern 8.95
Simplicity www.sewessential.co.uk
This is one of the new

patterns released for 8086
summer from Simplicity Cynthia Rowley
and it comes with loads for Simplicity
of options to make it
your own. With a total of The 8086 from Cynthia
seven variations including Rowley for Simplicity is a
a skirt, shorts, trousers and great shape for summer
culottes it offers excellent and part of the spring/
value for money. The summer collection. The
pattern features pleats at dress comes in two
the front and back that variations and gives the
go into the waistband, appearance of wearing
resulting in a relaxed a dress and top when
fit. We really love the in fact its all one piece,
culottes; they are bang on so could be made in
trend this summer. Wed different fabric. The
recommend this for an pattern features a fitted
advanced beginner. bodice, a full skirt and
also a looser-fitting
over top with French
darts. We think this
pattern is suitable for an
intermediate maker.
Sizes UK 6-14, 14-22

Paper pattern 8.15
www.jaycotts.co.uk
SN07.P10-12.indd 10 28/03/2017 16:12

NEWS
JACKIE DRESS
Victory Patterns
SKILL LEVEL:
The Jackie is the latest release
from American pattern brand
Victory Patterns. Designed to be
a fairly simple in construction,
its a knit pattern that features
princess seams that go into a
midi length flowing skirt and a
built-up neckline. There is an
opening at the back of the
dress so that it can be pulled
over your head and closes with
three buttons and rouleau loops.
Wed recommend this for sewists
confident sewing with stretch.
Sizes UK 4-18, (US 0-16)

ONLINE PDF pattern $14
COURSE (approximately 11.54)
www.victorypatterns.com
Sizes UK 8-20
Online course 40
www.sewoverit.co.uk
CHLOE COAT
Sew Over It
SKILL LEVEL:
The Chloe Coat is part of an online
course from Sew Over It called Intro
to Coats. Its a relatively simple make
and could be a good first venture
into coat making. The coat is fully
lined and creates its shape with a
long cut-away dart, creating a 60s
silhouette. Other features include
patch pockets, collarless neckline and
options to add a zip or press studs to
close. Wed recommend this to an advanced beginner as the online
course takes you step-by-step through the making process.
SN07.P10-12.indd 11 28/03/2017 16:12

Sizes UK 8-22
Paper pattern 13.99 ROMY BRA
www.sewmesomething.co.uk Ohhh Lulu Patterns
SKILL LEVEL:
The Romy is the newest pattern from
Ohhh Lulu, who makes and sells
lingerie alongside selling PDF patterns.
The bra features a three-piece cup
without underwire and a shaped
wing for a better fit. Its a fairly simple
construction and can be made in a
variety of fabric including jersey, cotton
Lycra or stretch lace. The pattern
comes with the option to fully line
it, but you can leave this out for a
simpler make. Wed recommend this
for an advanced beginner who has
made some lingerie before.
JULIA POCKET TOP

Sew Me Something Sizes UK XS 34-35 bust to XXL 44-45 bust
PDF pattern 11.11
SKILL LEVEL: www.etsy.com/uk/shop/OhhhLuluSews
This simple pattern from
Sew Me Something is a
great wardrobe staple. It has
a simple boxy shape with The Fold Line is an online sewing
dropped shoulders, relaxed community with over 10,000 members.
fit and features pockets The site has a huge pattern database
that are integrated into the with sewing-specific search function plus
seam. The top also comes wishlist and library profile features to
with two options for the store your favourite patterns. There is
neckline, including a funnel neck perfect for a cold day. This pattern also a sewing resources section to inspire
is for jersey fabric but could also be made in sweatshirt fabric for a your next make and an active forum
jumper-style top. Wed recommend this pattern for a beginner whos where you can chat to other sewists.
sewn with stretch fabric before. Visit www.thefoldline.com
SN07.P10-12.indd 12 28/03/2017 16:12

ISSUE 39 ON SALE 20TH APRIL
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PATTERN GIFT
Worth
8.25
Everyday stylish blouses
Luxe leather
fringed bag
Sew Caroline
afternoon skirt Easy-sew kids
PJs and case
Order your copy today at www.moremags.com/lsi39
SN07.P13 LS House Ad.indd 13 28/03/2017 16:16

View A Front View B Front
YOUR
FREE
PATTERN
VIEW A
View B Back
Viewjacket
Denim A Back32,
www.asos.co.uk
Clean
CUT
Oversized styles are the
big story of the season,
and this issues free apron
dress pattern is a timeless
take on the trend
Photographer RENATA STONYTE
Model GRACE for Boss Models
Hair and make-up NINA ROCHFORD
GET THE LOOK
Orange Risa floral stretch

cotton sateen
This bright stretch 150cm-
wide cotton sateen with 3%
spandex will really get you
noticed with its bold blooms
on an orange background
7 per metre
www.fabricgodmother.co.uk
SN07.P14-16.indd 14 28/03/2017 18:04

SEW YOUR STYLE
Beginner
For a pretty summery look cut the pocket
pieces in lace or to contrast your pattern
cut from the main fabric on the bias
Intermediate
Hit the check fabric trend head on and
pattern-match the panels for an extra
challenge, or add a tie into the side
seams to pull in the dress at the back
VIEW B
View B Back
View A Back
A clean-cut dress is often

the way to add true value
to your wardrobe, and the
2-in-1 Kwik Sew Apron
Dress fits the bill perfectly.
Blue balloon-sleeve
shirt 14.99 Acting as a the building
www.hm.co.uk block for numerous
summer outfits, its simple
throw-over style makes it
a satisfyingly easy make
for beginners. The deep
pockets sit on the hip and
run from the front to the
back of the dress. The full
panelled skirt and loose-
fitting bodice make it ideal
Pink bag 29, for casual weekend wear
www.johnlewis.co.uk
GET THE LOOK

Sam
Navy Cloud9 Window

Dressing Big Plaids
This 112cm-wide woven
broadcloth can be used for
projects from quilting and
Navy Mary Jane heels 30,
patchworking to bag
www.asos.co.uk
and dressmaking
16 per metre
www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk
Grace is 5' 8 and a dress size 10
SN07.P14-16.indd 15 28/03/2017 18:04

If you prefer a more fitted
WHAT IS AN APRON DRESS?
look, try a style with a
Mimicking some features of a traditional A simple ruffle or
broderie anglais will gathered waist
apron, an apron dress can be worn with add a summery feel
or without a garment underneath. Most to your apron dress,
dresses of this style have a bib-like front or why not got the
bodice and pocket detail and are often whole hog and use
broderie anglais as
found with ties. This style has become your main fabric?
popular due to its generous ease and
easy-to-wear quality.
HIGH STREET
Dont think of this style as a one-stop
shop add a asymmetric hem for a
fuller skirt and more interest.
Spring-print petticoat
dress 95,
www.lauraashley.co.uk
Pilgrim pleated denim midi dress

20, www.sainsburys.co.uk
VINTAGE
Navy striped
dress 45, Opt for 70s styling with a
www.marksandspencer.com tie-back apron dress with
three length options
TURNING JAPANESE
Japanese dressmaking
patterns are gaining popularity
fast, and these interpretations
of the apron dress offer easy
sewing and alternative styling
options. Yoshiko Tsukioris
Straight Stitch Apron and
Apron Dresses Japanese
Craft Book has 28 apron dress
designs. This book is entirely
in Japanese so is not for the faint hearted, but the
diagrams are thankfully easy to follow. Ivy Arch shares Simplicity 8073, 1970s
Vintage Apron Dress
her thoughts on one of the traditional apron wrap Sizes 4-12, 12-20, 5.65
dresses at www.ivyarch.co.uk/2014/03/ www.beadandbutton
cobbler-controversy-straight-stitch.html company.co.uk
SN07.P14-16.indd 16 28/03/2017 18:04

INSPIRATION
WEAR IT WITH...
Make this highly versatile lace top work
hard in your spring wardrobe
CONCERT Embroidered biker jacket POWER

59.99, www.newlook.com
MEETING
Frill-sleeve shirt 34,
www.next.co.uk
Mesh sports bag 38,

www.next.co.uk
Mini handbag 14,
www.tuclothing.sainsburys.co.uk
Metallic jewelled
sandals 58,
www.office.co.uk M&S Collection court shoe 45,
www.marksandspencer.com
Pink high-neck blouse 45,

www.missselfridge.com
Reefer mac 135,
www.crewclothing.co.uk
WINE
TASTING
Clutch bag 23, www.laredoute.co.uk
Silk neckerchief 25,

www.crewclothing.co.uk
SEASIDE STROLL
Ballet pumps 35, M&S Collection bright boho earrings

www.laredoute.co.uk 12.50, www.marksandspencer.com
SN07.P17.indd 17 28/03/2017 16:15

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SN07.P18.indd 18 23/03/2017 12:34

Making time
to sew
With a new addition to the family,
Welcome to the Murphy family, Luke!
We love this smart bib,

Sewing Bee Angeline Murphy especially the little bow tie
reveals how she fits her sewing

around her new responsibilities!
Angeline
W
ith a new arrival in the a healthy balance is to take one
Murphy household my life day at a time and set small, realistic
has just got just a little goals and projects. Tight deadlines no
bit busier! Im absolutely longer work as Luke is my number
delighted to share with you all that our one priority if he needs nursing the
son Luke Vincent Murphy arrived on sewing machine has to wait.
Sunday 22nd January at 10.10am. My
little bundle of joy has turned my world My recent sewing projects have
upside down days are shorter and focused around Luke a little dressy
nights are longer! You begin to master bib and a matching jacket, hat and
the art of doing things with one hand mitts. I am currently working on one of
(I am currently nursing him as I type). my biggest projects to date creating
This leaves me with the challenge of Lukes Christening gown from my
finding time to sew between the nappy mothers wedding dress. I am using
changes, feeding and the Simplicity 8024
washing that comes pattern and adding
with a little one in
the house.
BEFORE I WOULD fine detail with
lace and trim. I
WHIP UP A DRESS IN also plan to make
Carving out time A DAY, NOW IT TAKES myself a dress that
to visit the sewing MORE LIKE A WEEK! is breastfeeding
room is much more friendly. My
difficult these days. wardrobe is
Naively, I thought 12 months maternity very limited at the moment and
leave would give me a lot of time to unfortunately a lot of my clothes are
sew; babies just feed and sleep dont impractical for feeding in public.
they? How wrong I was. For the first
few weeks I was constantly nursing, Sewing is a part of me and, although
changing and cuddling Luke, which was Im not getting to spend hours of
lovely but left no time for anything else. uninterrupted time in the sewing
Getting the dinner on the table was a room these days, I am taking every
massive achievement. Thankfully though, opportunity to fit in an hour here and
Luke has got into his little routine and there when I can. My projects are just
I take him up to the sewing room taking that little bit longer to complete.
with me. On the days I sew, all other Before I would whip up a dress in a Angelines mothers
wedding dress,
housework duties are left behind. I day, now it takes more like a week! I which she hopes
focus on one thing at a time and I dont wouldnt have it any other way the to transform
beat myself up that the ironing is left wee man gives me an excuse to make into a beautiful
Christening gown
to sit another day! The key to keeping adorable mini makes.
SN07.P19.indd 19 28/03/2017 16:15

I N T E R V I E W
SEWING
START UP
This month we chat to Emily Burns, owner of
independent clothing brand Firecrest Mode about
what has inspired her debut collection and what
the future holds for her creative business
Lets start at the from in this debut collection. The
beginning, what was pieces are all made by hand from my
the inspiration for Eastleigh studio and similar styles will be
starting your made in the collections to follow, so that
own business? if a customer likes something they can
From an early age look forward to seeing it in the future,
I had wanted to be perhaps in a different colour or texture.
a fashion designer. All fabric is natural, so the clothes are
Emily When looking for biodegradable, and I often use organic
jobs, after a role as a and Fairtrade fabric.
textiles sales assistant for over six years, it
made me reconsider what I really wanted Which items do your customers like at
to do for a living. I have always dreamed the moment?
of having a design studio where I can be The Gentian Box Jacket, made in indigo
as creative as I like. denim, has been one of the bestsellers so
far, and some of the dresses have been
Tell us what makes your business special very popular. People love the idea of
Small-scale, limited production runs mean spring and wearing the dresses to special Gentian Box Jacket
that the Firecrest Mode customer buys occasions. There has been widespread
into a brand thats unique. The fabric used interest across the whole range, which is
is substantial in look and feel; it is natural really encouraging. machine would have been extremely
and there are plenty of colours to choose welcome then!
When did you start sewing?
I learnt how to hand-sew a running stitch What are your top tips for working
in primary school but then didnt have with patterns?
any more sewing lessons at school. My I make my own patterns for my company
paternal grandmother taught me how and, from those, I can say that notches
to cross-stitch on a tapestry when I really help when youre lining up seams
was around eight, then I taught myself and putting zips in the right place.
to hand-sew a few creations while When using commercial patterns, I
at university. In my final year, having learnt notching is important and so is
borrowed my friends sewing machine, I lengthening or shortening the pattern
graduated to the world of mechanical at the places marked. This helps you to
production. I havent looked back! adapt the pattern a little, according to
your style and size. Of course, lining up
Have you ever had any the fabric using the grain lines is key to
sewing disasters? having a well-constructed garment. They
I once had an awful time with some can be lined up parallel to the selvedge
stretchy fabric thanks largely to not of the material, or on the cross grain at
having the right machinery. A coverstitch a right angle to the selvedge, and can
SN07.P20-21.indd 20 28/03/2017 16:17

FEATURE
Shell Ginger
Dress
Passion Flower Top Hosta Shirt and

and Spiraea Skirt Liriope Dress
and I feel as though Im carving out a a quick Instagram photo and another
new pathway where no one has gone cuppa! At the end of the day, after
before in terms of my own work, which chatting with fellow artists and designers,
is definitely a challenge. At the same time I tidy up and make my way home.
I can look to the great designers of the
past, and to my peers, for reassurance What do you do to relax or take
and inspiration. I am lucky to be in one of time out?
16 studios for artists and designer-makers I enjoy swimming, going for country
where we support each other. Its great walks, visiting art exhibitions and attending
having the freedom to produce my modern jive classes and freestyle dance.
own ideas!
be lined up on the bias too. Getting the What are your personal favourite
angles right, as with precise cutting of the Whats the best piece of advice youve fabric brands?
paper and material, helps to make ever received? I really like the collections from The
a great garment. You can only do what you can do, Cloth Shop and Cloth House in London,
said the manager and proprietor of the as well as Merchant & Mills. Liberty Tana
How have you expanded your business? sewing workshop in which I worked Lawn is a firm favourite too.
Moving into The Sorting Office studios as a seamstress. When you realise you
last year was a big step. The studios are have certain limitations you can focus on What can we expect to see from you
a fantastic place to work, reaping all your abilities and strengths and let those this year?
the benefits of support from Eastleigh outweigh your lack of skills or knowledge The Flora Collection for spring/summer
Borough Council and management from in other areas. Then you can come up 2017 is available to order through my
arts charity 'a space' (www.aspacearts. with something individual and original and website and Etsy shop. This will be
org.uk). The affordable workspaces and youre not always striving to be something followed by an autumn/winter 2017/18
business mentoring provided, together with youre not. collection; Im hoping to release it in
a dedicated Talent Development project, September, which is exciting! I will be at
have all been hugely beneficial in building What does a typical day in your life fairs such as the Winchester Craft & Gift
the business. Since moving into my studio look like? Market at the Winchester Guildhall on
I have acquired an industrial machine and During the production phase, a cup of 15th April and 15th July.
have put together my first collection of coffee or tea while answering emails and
ready-to-wear womens fashion. I started doing other computer-related tasks comes
with designing the collection, then made first. Then I finish the clothing I was To find out more
my first patterns and calico toiles. After making the day before. If I have finished about Firecrest Modes
sewing samples with the real fabric I making a size range in one style I go on debut collection and
had the range photographed, and Im to the next style and start cutting out upcoming fairs, visit
now in the production phase. This is very another size range from the patterns Ive www.firecrest
different from working at home on one-off had graded onto card. I have a brisk walk mode.co.uk
bespoke projects. at lunchtime and something to eat about You can find the shop online at
noon. In the afternoon its back to sewing www.firecrestmode.etsy.com and
What are the best and most challenging darts and seams and overlocking, as well follow firecrestmode on Instagram
things about running your own business? as assembling, putting in zips, sewing on Learn more about The Sorting Office,
As time unfolds new obstacles arise buttons and hemming with a break for at www.sorting-office.co.uk
SN07.P20-21.indd 21 28/03/2017 16:17

Skill builder:
Seam finishes
Our in-house seamstress guides us through some well
Jeanette
used and more unusual versions of seams
TURNED OVER/
NEED-TO-KNOW FACTS CLEAN FINISH HEM
What is the technique?
Different seam finishes for 1 Press seam open.
different fabric.
What can it be used for?
To neaten raw edges of seams to give 2 Turn and press a very narrow
(5mm) hem on each seam
allowance. (See Pic A.)
a clean finish and ensure the garment
can be worn and washed many times.
What type of fabric does this
technique work with? 3 Sew close to the edge, holding
the turned hem in place. (See
Pic B.) Press.
A
All fabric, use the appropriate finish for
each type.
Which foot should you use?
For most seam finishes we use the ZIGZAG SINGLE FABRIC
regular machine foot; for an overcast
stitch use an overcast foot. 1 Press seam open.
Which needle should you use?

The needle appropriate for the weight
and type of fabric you are using. 2 Using a zigzag stitch (experiment
with scraps of your fabric to
ascertain the correct size), sew very
What are common problems?
When using a zigzag stitch on fine close to the edge of the seam
allowance. Ideally the tip of each B
fabric the stitches may pull and pucker
the material. Experiment with different zigzag should be on the edge of
sizes of zigzag stitch and, if you still the fabric, but this can take time
encounter problems, try zigzag- to master and it is okay to trim any
stitching the raw edges together, or excess seam allowance if necessary,
using a clean finish method such as although be careful not to cut
turned over. through your stitches. (See Pic C.)
Press
ZIGZAG DOUBLE FABRIC

Good habits checklist
n Save a scrap of fabric when
cutting out
1 Press seam to one side.
C Great for most
medium to
lightweight fabric
2 Sew the zigzag stitch close woven fabric

n Test your straight stitch, zigzag
to the edge of both seam
or overcasting stitch to determine
allowances together. This often
which seam to use
works better on lightweight fabric
n Make a note of stitch length and where sewing through each seam
width for the zigzag and pop it on a allowance separately might cause
Post-it note on your machine puckering (alternatively, use the
clean finish/turned over method).
n Always press your seams, back and
(See Pic D.) Press.
front. It will set your fabric in the right
place and gives a professional finish D
SN07.P22.indd 22 28/03/2017 17:45

TUTORIAL
OVERCASTING/
OVEREDGING
3 Many modern sewing machines will

have at least one overcast stitch.
This uses a foot with a straight guide
that runs along the edge of the fabric
to hold the stitches in place. There is
usually is a pin or bar running through
the centre to help the stitches lie flat.
Check your sewing machine manual for
more details. It is sometimes possible to
use the overcast stitch without the foot
by either keeping the stitch carefully
Overedge foot for a
close to the edge, or trim down Janome machine
afterwards as with the zigzag stitch. 12.49
(See Pic E.) www.sewcompare.com
E
FLAT FELLED SEAM

Ideal for
(SOMETIMES REFERRED TO hardworking
AS RUN AND FELL) garments such
1 With wrong sides together, as jeans

sew seam on the seam line
(1.5cm). (See Pic H.)
F G 2 Press open and then to one side.

(See Pic I.)
3 Trim the under layer of the seam to

3mm. Press the upper layer under
approximately 6mm, enclosing the under
layer. Pin in place. (See Pic J.)
4 With right sides facing and a longer

length stitch (3mm), top-stitch the seam
closed as close as possible to the edge.
(See Pic K.)
H I
HONG KONG FINISH

(BOUND SEAM)
1 With right sides facing, sew

the seam on the seam line
(1.5cm). Press seam open.
Ideal for
fabric that frays
easily
2 Use bias binding to finish

raw edges of the seam;
open out the bias tape and,
from the underside of seam,
stitch in place along fold line
of the bias tape (or 4mm in).
(See Pic L.)
3 Press, and pin the bias tape

into position on the top of
the seam, and stitch in place.
Press. (See Pic M.)
J K
SN07.P22.indd 23 28/03/2017 17:45

Vintage
DOWNLOAD RUFFLE
BLOUSE
YOUR
FREE
TEMPLATE
Jump on the ruffle bandwagon

with this elegant blouse. The
petite neckline and cuff
ruffle detail makes for an
easy-to-wear summer top
Claire
Project CLAIRE GARSIDE
www.simplesewpatterns.co.uk
Model GRACE for BOSS models
Hair & make-up NINA ROCHFORD
SN07.P24-26.indd 24 28/03/2017 17:42

STYLE
SKILL LEVEL: LAYPLANS

45"-wide fabric 60"-wide fabric
MATERIALS:
45-wide fabric:
2.40 (up to size 14)
FOLD
2.4m (sizes 14-20)
Sleeve
60-wide fabric: cut 2
SELVEDGE
1.75m (up to size 14)
1.80m (sizes 14-20) Sam
60cm matching bias tape Bodice
6cm thin elastic cord or thin cord REPLACE back
button THE RUFFLES
SELVEDGE
free template from www.sewnowmag.co.uk WITH COTTON
NOTES:
LACE OR
Use 1.5cm seam allowance throughout CONTRASTING Bodice
FABRIC back
FABRIC TYPES:
Sleeve
FOLD
Cotton, tana lawn, crepe, dobby, chambray
or any lightweight woven fabric
CUTTING:
HOW TO MAKE: 1 Front bodice
1 Sew darts in place. Press downwards. 1 Back bodice

(See Pic A.) 2 Sleeves Bodice
2 Cuff ruffles front
2 With right sides together stitch back 1 Neck ruffle Bodice

2 sleeve cuffs front
bodices together, stopping stitching at
*Open out fabric to cut

the point, leaving an opening. (See Pic B.) Neck ruffle
Neck ruffle* Cuff frill
3 Press seams open and, along back neck

opening, fold over the seam to neaten by
0.5cm. Press and stitch in place. (See Pic C.)
Cuff frill
Neck cuff
Neck cuff
4 With right sides together join front and back

bodice pieces at shoulders. (See Pic D.)
MEASUREMENTS
Descriptions/size 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
5 Press seams open. (See Pic E.)

Full Bust 36 38 40 42 44 46 48
Waist 37 39 41 43 45 47 49
6 With wrong sides together fold over wrist

ruffle and press. Sew a running stitch
along the longest open edge, leaving a long
Neck to back hem 25 25 26 26 26 26 27
loose thread at each edge. (See Pic F.)
7 Pulling the loose threads, gather the frill

until it is exactly the same width as the
8 Sandwich the frill right sides together
5
between the two sleeve cuff pieces
and, using the 1cm seam allowance, stitch
9 Fold the cuffs back up and press
so the cuffs are now wrong side to
wrong side and the frill is left exposed
sleeve edge. (See Pic G.) 4
through all three layers. (See Pic H.) at the bottom. (See Pic I.)
A B D 7
C5
5
. 4 4 6
17
13 15 WWW.SEW NOW MAG .C O.UK 25
16
12
11 14
13
SN07.P24-26.indd 25
15 16 28/03/2017 17:42
13 Repeat steps 6 and 7 for the
neck ruffle. (See Pic M.)
GET THE LOOK
Vintage floral
digital-print cotton
14 With right sides together attach the

neck ruffle to the neckline using 1cm
seam allowance. (See Pic N.)
Lightweight cotton
lawn with vintage-
style floral print
13.99 per metre
15 Open out the bias tape and,

with right sides together, line
up the tape with the raw edge of the
www.remnant
kings.co.uk
neckline ruffle. Make sure the tape

over hangs by 2cm at each short
edge. Stitch in place along the tape 17 With right sides together stitch the
front and back bodice together at
fold, then fold over the short edges
neatly at each end. (See Pic O.)
5 5 5
the side seams, stopping at the point. Press
seams open. (See Pic Q.)
10 With right sides together stitch 4 4 4

the cuffs to the bottom edge
of the sleeve. (See Pic J.) 16 Create a loop from the elastic or
cord big enough to fit over the
button and slot behind the bias tape at
18 With right sides together insert sleeve
into armhole and ease in, pinning then
stitching in place. Visit www.simplesewpatterns.
11 Press the cuffs down in position.

(See Pic K.)
the short edge of the neckline opening.
Stitch in place. Fold down the bias tape
. along the edge
and carefully stitch close
com/pages/setting-sleeves for a setting
sleeves tutorial. (See Pic R.)
With right sides together fold 7 .

12 the
sleeve over and stitch all the way
to encase8the seams. Stitch a button on
.
the opposite side to fit through your loop.
5 seams.
19 Press up the hem by the stated amount
and top-stitch in place, pivoting on the
4
down the side seam. Press the seam open. Press facing and neck frill to seal
9
corners and stitching up and around the hem
6 1
Repeat for the other sleeve. (See Pic L.)
6 7 (See Pic P.)
87
4
10 8
opening. (See Pic S.)
11
E G H 9 J
6 9
6 F . 7
12
10 11
5
4 I 6 13
7 8 13 15 12 16
12 10 11
14
139 13. 15 15 13
1 12 12 10 11
12
14
K 12 17 L
13
14 14 N 15
19 O 16
11 M 14
6 17 19
16
20
21
17
13 15 20 16
17
12
14 20 19 21
Q 21
20 S
P 19 21
R
21
SN07.P24-26.indd 26 28/03/2017 17:42

SN07.P27.indd 27 23/03/2017 12:39
Think PINK!
Cerise, fuchsia, blush, rose, salmon, magenta pink
really is having its moment this season. We show you how
to find your perfect shade
Words STEPHANIE ROPER www.wardrobeangel.co.uk
BIKER JACKET the perfect stopgap. They typically come its structure and fit, the jacket will add
in black, brown or grey, but this season texture to any outfit, toughen up a girly
A biker jacket is one of the best why not switch things up and try one dress and, unlike most items of clothing,
transitional, trans-seasonal, wear-within blush? Wear it with faded blue denim it really does get better with age! The
anything, go-to items you can have in and white trainers or over a summer inevitable creases appear and the wear
your wardrobe. When its too warm for dress. This jacket in a soft pastel hue will and tear over time just add to the jackets
your trusty parka and not warm enough also look awesome with a pair of khaki appeal. I recommend making this in soft
to go without a coat, a biker jacket is trousers and a crisp white T-shirt. With faux suede.
Polie peach PU biker jacket 40,

www.prettylittlething.com
Pastel pink suede 225g

Mainly used for soft
furnishings, this suede
looks and feels like
the real thing for
considerably less.
6.95 per metre,
www.fabric-online.co.uk
Pale pink biker jacket 28,

www.direct.asda.com
Petro chino 49.95,

www.whitestuff.com
Kwik Sew 3764

Misses Jacket
Sizes XS-S-M-L-XL
8.99, www.sewbox.co.uk
SN07.P28-29.indd 28 28/03/2017 18:03

FEATURE
McCalls M7532
Misses V-Neck Dresses
Sizes 6-14, 14-22
8.75, www.abakhan.co.uk
Simplicity 8056
Amazing Fit Flared
or Shorts Pants
Sizes 10-20, 20-22W
8.95,
www.minervacrafts.com
Star by Julien Macdonald

trousers 40,
www.debenhams.com
Issa kitten-heel pointed shoes

129, www.jigsaw-online.com
CERISE TROUSERS
A refreshing and lighter option
to jeans, these trousers let you
wreak cerise pink havoc in
your wardrobe, and will look
especially flattering if you have
a winter colouring. They gently
caress your ankle and the
tailored fit immediately smartens
any outfit. If you are short in
the leg, pair them with heels
silver if youre feeling brave! Just
make sure you check out your Straight-leg trousers
Trumpet-sleeve dress 25, www.very.co.uk
27.99, www.bonprix.co.uk rear these fit quite snugly so
seam-free pants all the way!
TULIP SLEEVE DRESS
This is a versatile dress for the Stephanie Roper is The Wardrobe Angel:
summer ahead, leaving plenty of an award-winning wardrobe fixer, stylist,
room for a little BBQ indulgence! fashion brand consultant and blogger. She
Envisage this dress in a delicate is passionate about sustainability and getting
salmon pink and then imagine the more wear from your wardrobe. She has
awesome colour clash of pairing also just finished filming her first TV show.
it with red shoes. Keep everything For more information, go to
Savannah Miller else simple and let the dress and www.wardrobeangel.co.uk
embroidered dress
75, www.debenhams.co.uk shoes do the talking. Wow! Stephanie
SN07.P28-29.indd 29 28/03/2017 18:03

INSPIRATION
1 2 4
Striped blazer 55,

www.laredoute.co.uk
Striped dress 28, www.next.co.uk
SHOP
Striped Bardot blouse
with tie sleeve 24,
www.simplybe.co.uk 3 Lost Ink Clean Bib all in one
58, www.littlewoods.com
IT OR
SEW IT
The nautical trend
1. Kwik Sew 3817 2. Butterick 5926 3. Mcalls 7543 Misses 4. New Look 6446
takes on a new twist Misses Sleeveless Misses/Misses Petite Off-the-Shoulder Tops, Misses Jumpsuit
Pullover Dresses Classic Notched Tunic and Dress Sizes 6-18
this spring, combining Sizes XS-XL Collar Blazer Sizes 4-14, 16-26 6.95
narrow stripes and 11.25 Sizes 8-16, 16-24 8.75 www.sew
www.myfabrics.co.uk 8.25 www.jaycotts.co.uk essential.co.uk
strong doses of denim www.sewdirect.com
SN07.P30.indd 30 28/03/2017 16:19

SN07.P31.indd 31 23/03/2017 15:03
BEFORE
Carissa
LACE & FLOWERS TOP

A refashion doesnt have to be limited to one garment. Grow your confidence and
get playful by combining two very different tops to create something unique
Project CARISSA BROWNING
AFTER
SN07.P32-33.indd 32 28/03/2017 17:42

REFASHION
SKILL LEVEL:
MATERIALS:
4 Turn the tube inside out, and press the
side seams. Sew another line of stitching
1cm in to create a French seam, encasing
around the circumference of floral tube to
finish the entire top edge. (See Pic G.)
lace T-back top

floral top or dress with full
the raw edges of the fabric. (See Pic D.)
8 If necessary, shorten the straps for a
better fit. Use a seam ripper to pick out
bodice or skirt
HOW TO MAKE:
5 Insert the top portion of the lace shirt
(right side out) into the top end of the
floral tube (inside out) so they are right
the original shoulder seams, being careful
not to damage the lace. (See Pic H.)
1 Cut away the skirt from the dress just

below the bodice. (See Pic A.)
sides together and sew the straps in place
along the centre fronts and back, leaving
a 3cm seam allowance on the floral fabric.
9 Overlap the front and back edges of
the straps to remove as much length
as needed. (See Pic I.)
2 With wrong sides facing, sew the new

A-line side seams to fit the bust at the
(See Pic E.)
10 Top-stitch in a rectangle around the

top and the hips at the bottom, plus 10cm
of ease throughout. Cut off excess fabric
roughly 0.5cm from the stitches. (See Pic B.)
6 Cut away the excess lace fabric, leaving
a 3cm seam allowance. (See Pic F.)
overlapping sections to join the new
shoulder seams. (See Pic J.)
3 If desired, salvage the laundering tag

and insert it in the inside of the top, as
7 Pull the lace straps upward, out of the
floral tube, with the shirt still inside out.
Fold the seam allowance under twice so the
11 Cut the bottom of the floral
fabric to the desired length. Pin,
sew and press a new hem along the
the side seam is sewn. (See Pic C.) raw edges will be encased and top-stitch bottom. (See Pic K.)
A B C
D E F
G H I
carissaknits.com is a little
corner of the internet
where Carissa explores all
manner of crafts. There youll find her sewing
inexpensive thrift shop finds into fabulous
new frocks, knitting up a new shawl, cross-
stitching a fresh bit of kitsch for her home,
reviewing the latest addition to her craft
book collection, and all sorts of other
crafty goodness!
J K
SN07.P32-33.indd 33 28/03/2017 17:42

I N T E R V I E W
WORK
it out
We chat to sewist and pattern designer
Becca Johnson about her funky plus-size
leggings brand Personal Record
I Want to Believe
leggings
What attracted you What inspired you to start creating your
to making your leggings range?
own garments? I have always been curvy and a few years
I have been sewing ago when printed leggings were really
since I was a teenager. trending, I realised how hard it was to find
My grandmother had bold prints that fit my body type, so I
an upholstery business decided to take matters into my own hands!
that she ran from her
Becca house. I would sit with Youve spent 10 years in the fashion
her for hours and industry. How do you think this
watch her work. She taught me how to sew. experience has influenced your
I started making my own garments because business and designs?
I loved how creative I could be. I also loved I think it has helped me to understand the
having to problem-solve to create a pattern production side of the fashion business.
and to figure out how to sew everything Currently, I do not sew each pair of leggings
together. I went to the Fashion Institute of because its impossible for me to keep up
Technology in NYC and majored in Fashion with the demand along with my job. I use
Design. For four years I drafted patterns an amazing local sewing factory to help
and sewed garments from my own designs me. My experience in the fashion industry
and then found a job in the industry. I still helped me to create a production-ready
love sewing just as much as I did when I pattern and to ensure the fit and quality is
first started. exactly what I want for my brand.
Flower Power leggings
Watercolour Dream
leggings
SN07.P34-35.indd 34 28/03/2017 16:22

INTERVIEW
Score leggings
Paradise leggings
I REALISED HOW HARD Who is your ideal
workout buddy?
IT WAS TO FIND BOLD My ideal partner is someone
PRINTS THAT FIT MY BODY that enjoys the same kind
of workouts as me! I have
TYPE, SO I DECIDED TO a friend I go to yoga with
TAKE MATTERS INTO and my husband is also one of my workout
MY OWN HANDS buddies. We do 5Ks and 10Ks together!
Sewing with
Whats been your proudest Personal
What can we look forward to from
you and Personal Record over the s tre tch fabric
Record moment? next few months? Keep your fabric flat and try not to
I think my proudest moment is probably I am working on a new round of leggings, stretch it as you sew
when I received my first orders and saw along with some accessories. I would love
people wearing my leggings all over to develop some tops but I have not found Knit fabric doesnt usually fray
Instagram. I felt so happy that I was able the perfect fabric just yet. Hopefully soon! but you can tidy up edges with
to provide for women like myself, who love zigzag stitch or an overlocker if
fitness but also happen to be curvy, with you have one
leggings that really fit their body type and Use a walking foot to help grip the
that they feel confident in. To find out more about Becca and fabric while sewing
Personal Record, head to
What do you think makes a great www.personalrecord.us Opt for a ballpoint or stretch
workout outfit? You can also share your workout snaps needle, which has a slightly
Anything you feel confident in! For me, wearing your Personal Record leggings rounded tip which wont
thats crazy printed leggings and a top on Instagram personalrecordofficial ladder your knit fabric
thats long enough so if Im jumping or
doing crunches, my shirt is not riding up
which I find totally distracting. All leggings $60 (48.21) from
www.personalrecord.us
Do you have any advice for sewing with

stretchy fabric?
Roll out the fabric and let it rest for a few
hours to make sure when you cut your
pattern the fabric is truly relaxed. For my
production, I let the fabric lay out for 24
hours. Also, make sure to use stretch stitches.
Zigzag stitches, cover stitches and Merrow
(overlocked) stitches are essential to make
sure your seams stretch with the fabric and
do not crack.
SN07.P34-35.indd 35 28/03/2017 16:22

Blue Buttons Designs
BlueButtonDesigns
Traders Outlet
djpproducts@msn.com 3-7 Tatton Road, Sale,
07540 634 351 Cheshire, M33 7EB
15% o
fabrics enter
SEWNOW15
at checkout
RELEASE YOUR HANDMADE

Quality dressmaking and craft fabrics online.
Leicestershire based sewing classes.
New knits and woven cottons now in stock.
www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk
SN07.P36.indd 36 23/03/2017 14:07

STYLE
files
Standout styles we
would love to wear
or make
Mimic the D-ring

belt trend and
make your own!
In constrast to primary brights, earthy tones have permeated womenswear this spring/summer season. Far from dull, these shades
include everything from deep khaki to intense dusky red and can add an element of simple chic to your wardrobe.
Go for an easy-to-wear style such as this stone linen-blend shirtdress and wear it with leather accessories to complete the look.
Safari dress 39, www.mandco.com
SN07.P37.indd 35 28/03/2017 16:23

Penny Pocket
A-LINE
SKIRT
This A-line skirt is a breeze
to make and the stylish,
deep curved pockets make it
functional as well as flattering
Project CLAIRE GARSIDE
www.simplesewpatterns.com
Model GRACE for Boss Models
Hair & make-up NINA ROCHFORD
DOWNLOAD
YOUR
FREE
TEMPLATE
Claire
GET THE LOOK

Red Dunlop denim
This versatile
154cm-wide denim
has a little stretch
for a great fit. Also
available in blue.
10.90 per metre
www.sherwoods
fabrics.co.uk
SN07.P38-40.indd 38 28/03/2017 18:00

STYLE
SIZING
SKILL LEVEL:
Finished garment 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
MATERIALS: measurements
1-2m medium weight woven fabric
Waist 25 27 29 31 33 35 37 39
such as cotton or denim
50cm medium weight fusible interfacing Hem circumference 61 63 65 67 69 71 73 75
9 concealed zipper
co-ordinating thread Length including waistband 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 24
templates from
www.sewnowmag.co.uk HOW TO MAKE:
NOTES:
Finish the raw edges with a zigzag
1 Sew darts in front skirt, press towards
side seams.
sew the facing in place with a 1cm seam
allowance. Trim, turn and press the facing to
wrong side. Press. (See Pic B). Top-stitch the
stitch or on an overlocker
1.5cm seam allowance throughout 2 Sew darts in back skirt pieces and press
towards side seams.
pocket in place.
unless otherwise stated
3 Sew a gathering stitch along the long

curved edge of the pocket piece using
5 Pin the pocket into position on front of
skirt and top-stitch in place around the
long curved edge. (See Pic C.) Repeat on
LAYPLANS
a 1 cm seam allowance. Pull the gathering opposite side.
45"-wide fabric stitches gently to help achieve an even 1cm
turn on the edge of the pocket. Press in
position. (See Pic A.) 6 With right sides together, attach the front
skirt to the back skirt pieces at the side
seams using a 1.5cm seam allowance. Press
4 Neaten the longest curved edge of the

pocket facing. With right sides together,
seams open. (See Pic D.)
B
SELVEDGE
FOLD
60"-wide fabric
C
SELVEDGE
FOLD
SN07.P38-40.indd 39 28/03/2017 18:00

Stylish , flattering pockets
between. Sew in place. Press the seam on the inside. Stitch in the ditch by sewing
allowance upwards. (See Pic G.) on the right side of the skirt, along the
crease of the waistband seam as slowly
10 Keep the waistband up so it is out of

the way and pin the zipper in place
along the centre back, making sure the top
as your machine will let you. On the inside
youll see a visible row of stitching where the
waistband facing has been stitched down.
of the teeth sit just below the waistband (See Pic K.)
seam. Hand-tack to secure, then change to
zipper foot and sew in place. (See Pic H.)
Repeat for the other side, being sure to align
the waist seam.
14 Press up the hem according to hem
allowance, pin in place and then stitch,
removing the pins as you go. (See Pic L.)
11 Finish the centre back seam by turning

skirt wrong side out and continuing
from the base of the zipper down to the
FOR A PERFECTLY ALIGNED
SEAM ACROSS A ZIPPER, SEW
hem. Press seam open. (See Pic I.) ONE SIDE THEN HAND-BASTE
THE ZIP ON THE OTHER JUST
7 Assemble the waistband by sewing two
back waistband pieces to the front piece
12 Press up the lower of edge of the AT THE SEAM POSITION SO
at the side seams with right sides together. waistband facing by approximately 1cm. YOU CAN QUICKLY CLOSE
Press the seams open. Apply interfacing to Now flip over the waistband facing so it is THE ZIP AND TEST THE
the second set of waistband pieces and right sides together with the outer waistband PLACEMENT BEFORE SEWING
assemble as before. This will now be referred and covering the top of the zipper. Still with
to as the waistband facing. (See Pic E.) the zipper foot in place, make a line of
ON YOUR MACHINE
stitches down the sides of the zipper tape.
8 Pin the waistband and facing right sides

together and sew along the upper edge
Clip the corners to reduce bulk. (See Pic J.)
using a 1cm seam allowance. Press the seam

open. (See Pic F.) 13 Turn the waistband and facing through
to the right side and use a point turner
to achieve a neat corner at the top of the
9 With right sides together, pin the lower

edge of the waistband to the skirt. The
top edge of the pocket will be sandwiched
zip. Pin the lower edge of the waistband
facing in place from the right side. There
should be a slight overhang past the seam Sam
G I
J
K
SN07.P38-40.indd 40 28/03/2017 18:00

INSPIRATION
CHERRY-PICKED FABRIC
This month our suppliers showcase two totally different
fabrics, which both say summer makes
SCUBA FABRIC, FABRIC GODMOTHER COTTON LAWN, GUTHRIE GHANI
Josies desire to find great fabric has led to her Lauren Guthrie upholds her belief that
curating a gorgeous range, from designer prints making your own clothes and homewares
to well-priced plains and everything in between. deserves the best of supplies and she
Complementary haberdashery and independent sources the most gorgeous fabric and
patterns will complete your shopping trip! haberdashery in her shop.
Josie www.fabricgodmother.co.uk
Lauren www.guthrie-ghani.co.uk
Cotton + Steel
White linea
speckled navy
floral scuba
cotton
12 per metre
22 per metre
This bold
We love the
illustrative print
speckled print on
has simple flowers
this beautifully
on a beautifully
softCotton + Steel
soft cream
cotton lawn it
background
would work well
perfect for
for a summer
summer.
blouse or top.
Liberty Ibiza
Prism scuba Berry C Tana
12 per metre cotton lawn
Great for dresses, 22.50per metre
tops and skirts, We are so excited
this scuba has about the new range
fantastic stretch of Liberty prints, and
and body, and this pineapple and
a standout flora design is one
geometric floral of our favourites. Its
design in pink traditional Liberty with
and white. a modern twist and
would make a great
top or lined dress.
Rose scuba Atelier Brunette Bye

12 per metre Bye Birdie terracotta
One of the cotton lawn
companys 17.50 per metre
bestsellers, this The bestselling
will make a make Bye Bye Birdie
fabulous party print from designer
dress or gathered Atelier Brunette
midi skirt with is now available in
surprising contrast a new colour range.
between the Thesimple origami
sturdy fabric and bird design
digital vintage- sits beautifully
style print. on terracotta
cambric cotton.
SN07.P41.indd 41 28/03/2017 16:25

10% OFeF
with cod
SEWNOW7
www.cottonreelstudio.co.uk
Unit 1a, Rutland

Garden Centre/Retail
Village, Ashwell Road,
Oakham, Rutland,
LE15 7QN
Tel: 01572 756468
Our friendly, well trained staff welcome you to our

beautiful garden centre location with ample free
parking, caf and other retailers on site. We have a
superb range of Patchwork and dressmaking fabrics
and accessories, regular classes and workshops as
well as being a Pfaff, Horn and Babylock dealer.
www.rutlandsewing.co.uk
Courses, Craft Kits, Supplies

Y
ST Y L E , YO U R WA
S E W I N G YO U R
www.leicestershirecraftcentre.co.uk
"Here at the Leicestershire Craft Centre we aim to pass on
our art and craft knowledge in a fun and inspiring way."
10a High Street, Market Harborough, LE16 7NJ
Temptations Craft
Boutique
An Aladdin's cave full of fabrics including Cotton
Poplins, Linens, Wool Tweeds & Polyesters
100% Cottons for Patchwork and Quilting
Knitting yarn and haberdashery
Courses and workshops
Agents for Brother Sewing Machines
Visit our shop or buy safely online
31 Main Street, Bentham, North Yorkshire, LA2 7HQ
Tel: 015242 61868 To advertise in Sew Now
www.temptationsbentham.co.uk
For shop opening times please see our website call Noune on 0844 826 0612
SN07.P42.indd 42 24/03/2017 15:29

INSPIRATION
The pattern
REVIEW
Adding an elegant twist to the Simple Sew
Charlotte Dress, this houndstooth jersey
style pays dividends! GET 5 OFF
the Charlotte Dress
using code SN7CD
Words ANGELA HOLLAND at www.simplesew
www.looks-like-I-made-it.blogspot.co.uk patterns.com
Offer valid until
31st May 2017
W
hile on the larger side as I was using a stretch
browsing fabric, but better to be safe than sorry.
the
Simple Sew website I decided to cut out all the pieces as
I noticed that the single layers (a must for me when pattern
model was wearing matching), using my rotary cutter which is
a version of the possibly my favourite tool in my sewing kit,
Charlotte Dress in and in my opinion hard to beat for
green jersey. I am precise cutting.
a big fan of sewing
with knit fabric and
Charlotte Dress
was on the lookout
for a stretch fabric
Sizes UK 8-20, 12.50 NEXT TIME I MAKE
that wasnt too
www.simplesew
patterns.com
THE CHARLOTTE DRESS
plain, so when I ILL TAKE A SHOT AT
came across the THE CAPPED SLEEVES
last little bit of this black and navy tiny AS WELL!"
houndstooth jersey from Hillsborough Fine
Fabrics in Sheffield I knew it would be
perfect for the Charlotte! Whats really important with this dress is
lining up all the seams and making sure
My measurements matched up to a size the bodice darts match the skirt darts. Its
8 on the size chart, apart from my waist worth taking the time to get it right for
which was closer to a 10. I traced off the a really elegant finish. I stay-stitched the
pattern and graded out to a 10 at the neckline at the start of the construction to
waist. I guessed this might end up a little stop it stretching out as I sewed.
The Charlotte Dress is described as

Tailor-tacked
bust darts being easy fit, meaning it isnt as tight
fitting as other garments in the Simple
Sew range. I tried on the dress at
various stages and decided it would look fit before committing. It really adds to the
better if it was a little tighter. I made the overall finish of the dress to match up the
necessary adjustments, such as taking waistline seam at the centre back when
an inch out of the side seams from bust putting in the zip.
to waist, and graded the back out to
the original hip size. Already it looked a I loved the pattern and am now intrigued
thousand times better. to see how Id get on with a woven fabric,
which I suspect would suit a looser fit
I opted for an invisible zip, and Im a big better than the jersey I used. Next time I
fan of tacking in the zip prior to machining make the Charlotte Dress Ill take a shot at
as it gives you chance to try on and check the capped sleeves as well!
SN07.P43.indd 43 28/03/2017 17:07

TECHNIQUES
How to make a the extending ends of the cords. Stitch

both long edges in the same direction to
avoid dragging the tape in the opposite
curtain heading 4
direction. (See Pic C.)
Pull up the cords to gather the curtain

to the required width. Knot the free
ends of the cords together, but dont cut
Finish off a pair of handmade curtains them off, as you may need to open the
heading out flat for laundering or hanging
with this handy curtain heading tutorial at a different window. Adjust the gathers
evenly. Slip the hooks through the slots in
By CHERYL OWEN
the tape, placing one at each end
and then at approximately 5cm intervals.
HOW TO MAKE: (See Pic D.)
1 Press under 3cm on the upper edge of

the curtain, or if the top of the curtain is
to stand above the tape, press under the 5 Roll up the excess tape and catch to
the top of the curtain with a few hand
height of the stand plus 3cm. For example, stitches. Alternatively, slip the cords into
for a 2.5cm stand, press under 5.5cm. a cord tidy. To make a cord tidy, cut a
Press the raw ends under diagonally at the 15x7cm rectangle of fabric. With right sides
corners. Knot the cords at one end of the facing, fold in half parallel with the short
curtain tape, then fold under the knotted edges. Stitch the side edges, taking a 1cm
end of the tape and cords. (See Pic A.) seam allowance. Clip the corners and turn
right side out. (See Pic E.)
2 Starting 5mm from one side edge,

pin the tape just below the upper
pressed edge on the underside of the 6 Turn 1cm to the inside at the top of the
cord tidy. Slip the cords inside the cord
T
curtain, or, if the curtain is to stand tidy and sew it to the top of the curtain
here are two common types of curtain above the tape, pin the tape the height on the underside. (See Pic F.)
heading: pencil pleat and standard of the stand below the upper edge.
curtain heading tapes. The curtain Continue pinning the tape to the curtain,
heading is made after the curtain and covering the raw edges. (See Pic B.)
the instructions here apply to both lined and
Adapted from
unlined curtains. If you would like the fabric to
stand above a standard curtain tape heading,
add double the height of the stand to the
3 Cut off the excess tape 2cm beyond
the other edge of the curtain. Turn
under 2.5cm at the extending end of the
Cheryl Owens
Home Sewing
drop of the curtain in addition to the 3cm at tape, leaving the cords on the right side Techniques, 9.99.
the upper edge and the lower hem when you may need to unthread the cords Available from
cutting out. For example, for a 2.5cm stand, at the end of the tape. Stitch close to www.immlifestyle
add 5cm. This will give a frilled effect to the both long edges and across the turned- books.com
upper edge when the curtains are opened. under ends, taking care not to catch in
A B C
D E F
SN07.P44-45.indd 44 28/03/2017 16:26

Elstow home dcor fabric
collection. To find your
nearest stockist, go to
www.ashleywildegroup.com
G E T T H E L O O K
Hang in
there
Showcase subtle spring prints with your
very own pair of home-sewn curtains
Sanderson Maple Chaffinch Voyage Perry Duck Egg

cotton-Nylon blend embroidered polyester
29 per metre 28.50 per metre
www.gordonsmithmalvern.co.uk www.textileexpressfabrics.co.uk
Zest Linen cotton Verve Juice cotton

9.99 per metre 9.99 per metre
www.terrysfabrics.co.uk www.terrysfabrics.co.uk
Ian Sanderson Pik & Dandelion Saffron cotton

Mix Fret in Elderflower 9.99 per metre
73 per metre www.terrysfabrics.co.uk
www.janeclayton.co.uk
SN07.P45.indd 45 28/03/2017 16:28

Renegade
IKAT BAG
Take an unwanted tablecloth,
a leather belt and a selection of
fabric scraps to create this simple
upcycled shoulder bag
Project BETH HUNTINGTON
Beth
SN07.P46-47.indd 46 28/03/2017 16:31

REFASHION
SKILL LEVEL:
MATERIALS:
step with the remaining leather and outer
bag pieces. (See Pic A.) 8 Making sure to use the leather needle,
stitch the ends of the belt 1 down from
the top on the side seams on the outer bag.

outer fabric
leather for bag base
placemats or other material for lining
3 Top-stitch across the top of each
leather piece from the edge.
(See Pic B.)
Stitch a square the width of the belt, and
then stitch across the square diagonally in
both directions for a secure hold. (See Pic F.)
leather belt for strap Pull the belt down so it is out of the way.

repurposed denim pocket
fusible interfacing
(Pellon 808 Craft-Fuse)
4 With right sides together, pin and sew
the layered leather/outer bag pieces
together along the sides and the bottom 9 With right sides together, place the outer
bag inside the lining. Line up the raw
100/18 leather machine needle with a seam allowance. edges and side seams, and pin around the
top edges of the bag. Stitch the top edges
FINISHED SIZE:
12x13x3 5 Pinch each bottom corner together,
aligning the side and bottom seams,
together with a seam. (See Pic G.)
CUTTING:
From outer, lining and interfacing, cut:
and sew diagonally across the corners 1
in from the points. (See Pic C.) Trim the
excess away from the corner seams.
10 Turn the bag right side out by reaching
up into the opening you left in the
bottom of the lining to pull out the rest of
2 13x16 rectangles You now have boxed corners. the bag. (See Pic H.) Stitch the bottom of
From leather, cut the lining closed using a whipstitch.
2 13x6 rectangles for bag base
HOW TO MAKE:
6 Find a pocket that will fit inside your
new bag. Cut out the pocket very
close to the seam. Pin the pocket, 11 Push the lining back into the bag.
Press around the upper edge.
1 Follow the manufacturers instructions to

fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of
each fabric piece.
centred, onto the right side of one of
the lining pieces. (See Pic D.)
This project is from
2 Place a 13x6 leather piece on top of a

13x16 outer fabric piece, both right sides
7 Use the 100/18 leather needle or a
heavy-duty denim needle to stitch the
pocket onto the lining piece, following
The Refashion
Handbook
by Beth Huntington,
up, aligning them at the bottom edges. Pin along an existing stitching line. Repeat
16.99 available from
and stitch together along the bottom 13 steps 4-5 to sew the lining pieces
www.ctpub.com
edge with a seam allowance (use a 110/18 together, leaving a 7 section open in the
leather needle in your machine). Repeat this bottom, and box the corners. (See Pic E.)
13"
16"
Topstitch here
Align and stitch at bottom edge

A B C D
E F G H
SN07.P46-47.indd 47 28/03/2017 16:31

d
lier,
ng as Challenge
ACCEPTED!
Looking some crafty inspiration or to
ted
nd at boost your skills? Join in with these
social media sewing challenges and
see what you can achieve!
by BETHANY ARMITAGE
eated Editor of our sister magazine Love Sewing has been

ear a getting stuck into this shirtdress. You can follow her
progress at almondrock.co.uk
en a
DRESS LIKE YOUR
GRANDMA CHALLENGE
Retro sewing enthusiast Tanya Hughes from
tanyamaile.com encourages you to take inspiration
from your family tree or dressmaking styles from
Amy
o decades gone by with this fun vintage challenge. Pick
a photo of your grandma, granddad, mum, aunt, or any photograph from
your the 1980s or earlier, study the garments worn and try to recreate the image
other for yourself. You can use vintage patterns, modern ones or reproduction
patterns, so long as you aim to evoke that era. There will be random prizes
drawn at the end too!
DATES FOR YOUR DIARY: The challenge ends on 17th April so youll
need to hurry!
HASHTAG: #dresslikeyourgrandma and tag organiser @tanyamaile in your Instagram posts
PINTEREST: Email Tanya@tanyamaile.com to join the Pinterest group board
#2017MAKENINE
We love some sewing goal setting, especially
ain
when you give yourself ALL year to make
ntive
things! Inspired by the Best Nine roundup
er it,
posts on Instagram, blogger and designer
Rochelle New decided to flip the idea on its
head and showcase her Make Nine, sharing
nine projects she wanted to make this year.
Think of it like a dream capsule wardrobe.
Theres no pressure to make them all but its
fun to see how everyone progresses and at
the end of the year which ones get sewn,
and how they turned out.
DATES FOR YOUR DIARY:

Ongoing
HASHTAG: #2017MakeNine and
tag theorganiser @rochelle_new
too if you like!
SN07.P48.indd 48 28/03/2017 17:11

INSPIRATION
#SEWTOGETHERFORSUMMER
Summer is fast approaching and who can resist a lovely shirtdress?
After noticing that a lot of people had picked a shirtdress as part
of their #2017MakeNine challenge, Sarah Smith, from sewsarahsmith.
wordpress.com, and friends Monika at @rocco_sienna and Suzy
from @sewing_in_spain decided to make their own hashtag using
this theme. All you need to do is share your home-sewn shirtdress
on Instagram. As an extra little incentive to play along theres
a load of prizes for randomly selected winners courtesy of 14
generous sponsors. These include the lovely folks at Sew Over it,
Minerva Crafts, Sew me Something and Beyond Measure.
DATES FOR YOUR DIARY: The challenge runs until 21st June.
Prizewinners will be announced 25th June
HASHTAG: #sewtogetherforsummer
We love the Reeta

Midi Shirtdress.
PDF pattern 13
(approximately 11.20)
Available in sizes 4-22 from
www.namedclothing.com
#WARDROBEBUILDER ME MADE MAY

Have you already started building your One of the most popular challenges is the
handmade wardrobe? Fear not, Laura annual Me Made May from blogger Zoe Edwards
Victoria from www.thepetitepassions.com (sozowhatdoyouknow.blogspot.co.uk), which is designed
is out to help you grow your home-sewn to encourage makers to wear and share what theyve
capsule wardrobe, with the target of one made. All you need to do is make a public pledge to
staple garment a month. Shes put together wear something youve created and share your progress
a handy calendar so you can play along on social media. You can personalise your pledge
with other sewists online and help each however you like. For instance, you might set yourself the
other out along the way. Dont worry target to wear a handmade garment every day, once a
about playing catch up, you can pick it Find out week or just to get some wear out of one or two new
up whenever you like. more about items youve made. Its up to you! Also, theres often a
this months
challenge on few lovely surprise prizes to be won along the way.
DATES FOR YOUR DIARY: Every month page 8
theres a fresh challenge DATES FOR YOUR DIARY: May 2017
HASHTAG: #wardrobebuilder HASHTAG: #mmmay17
SN07.P48.indd 49 28/03/2017 17:11

Bright stripe
SADDLE
BAG
Add an instant pop of colour to
an outfit with this bright, bold bag
with striped cotton webbing detail
Project BECKY CLARK www.beckyclarke.com
Model GRACE for BOSS models
Hair and make-up NINA ROCHFORD
Becky
GET THE LOOK
8oz washed Heavyweight Red stripe

denim cotton iron-on Interfacing ticking cotton
dress fabric 1.59 per metre 7.99 per metre
11.99 per metre
Webbing for stripes and handles:

25mm wide / 38mm wide
39p per metre / 69p per metre
Prym coloured
sew-on metal Navy Simplicity cotton
snap fasteners belting webbing
3.49 per pack 1.89 per metre
All available from www.minervacrafts.com
SN07.P50-52.indd 50 28/03/2017 16:32

ACCESSORIES
SKILL LEVEL:
MATERIALS:
HOW TO MAKE:
1 Cut a piece of interfacing slightly larger

than the front flap piece and lay it
4 With right sides together and cut ends
matching, pin the side panel piece
around the curved edge of one bag body
100x45cm outer fabric for main adhesive side up on the ironing board. Place and stitch. Repeat with the other bag
bag body the first tape on the interfacing with edges piece, leaving a gap approximately 15cm
65x75cm lining fabric together and iron so it lightly adheres, making at the base of the curve to turn the bag
30cm square heavyweight sure you dont touch the bare interfacing through. Press all seams towards the side
iron-on interfacing with the iron. Place the next tape butted up panel. (See Pic E.)
4 1m strips 25mm-wide webbing against the first and iron to adhere. (See Pic
4 1m strips 38mm-wide webbing
1m cotton belting webbing for handle
1 metal snap fastener
A.) Continue to cover the fabric with tapes
then turn it over and iron over the back
of the interfacing to ensure the tapes are
5 Iron the interfacing to the reverse of one
denim body piece then repeat Step 4,
stitching the side panel to the two body
free template from secured. Centre the bag flap pattern piece bag pieces do not leave a gap. Press the
www.sewnowmag.co.uk on the tapes and cut out. (See Pic B.) seams towards the side panels. (See Pic F.)
NOTES:
Use 1cm seam allowance throughout 2 With right sides facing, pin the striped and
denim flap pieces together. Stitch around
the curved edge then clip the curves, turn
6 Turn the bag right side out. Pin the flap in
place with striped side against the denim
that has been interfaced. Stitch in place.
CUTTING: right side out and press. (See Pic C.) (See Pic G.)
From the outer fabric, cut:
2 bag body, front flap, side panel
From the lining, cut:

3 Fold and press 1.5cm along the edge on
the pocket piece and stitch. Fold and
press a 1.5cm hem around the remaining
7 With the lining inside out, slide the denim
bag (right side out) into the lining, making
sure the flap is sandwiched between the
2 bag body, side panel, pocket three edges. Pin the pocket centrally onto two layers. (See Pic H.) Match seams and
one bag lining piece. The top edge should pin the denim and lining together around the
From the interfacing, cut: be 4cm down from the top bag edge. Stitch top of the bag then stitch, making sure you
Back piece on the pocket. (See Pic D.) stitch just below the sewing line of the bag
flap to hide the stitching. Turn the bag the
right way through the gap in the lining. (See
pics I and J.)
Dont rush when ironing the tapes to the
webbing. Make sure the first one is straight 8 Press a 1.5cm hem around the opening
in the lining then pin the edges together
and stitch close to the folded edge. (See Pic
then apply each subsequent piece carefully K.) Iron all round the top edge. Fold the side
to ensure a beautiful end result panel in half, matching the seams (denim
on the inside) and sew a line 1cm from the
A B C
D E F
SN07.P50-52.indd 51 28/03/2017 16:32

fold, stitching 2cm down from the top edge USE A SOFT
(this creates a small pleat to keep the bag TAPE MEASURE,
contents safe). (See Pic L.) TO CHECK THE
STRAP LENGTH
9 Tuck the cut edges of a length of
strap webbing under then pin in place
centrally on the side piece 6cm down from
AGAINST
YOUR BODY,
the top edge. Stitch three lines to encase OR ADD A
the cut edge of webbing as well as give the STRAP SLIDER Sam
strap strength. (See Pic M..) SO YOU CAN
EASILY ADJUST
10 Hand-stitch a large popper closure to
the underside of the flap to connect it
securely to the main bag. (See Pic N.)
THE LENGTH
G H
I J
K L
M N
SN07.P50-52.indd 52 28/03/2017 16:32

New fabrics added every week
2.50 UK P&P sewoverit.co.uk/shop
FREE for orders 75+ 0207 326 0376
SN07.P53.indd 53 23/03/2017 14:37

TES
INCLUDES FULL-SIZE TEMPLA
2-IN-1
PICNIC
BAG
sweet
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ONES
PLAYTIME PROJECTS
Order your copy today at www.moremags.com/sewsweet
SN07.P79.indd 79 28/03/2017 16:47

G E T T H E L O O K
Painterly
PRINTS
Embrace the watercolour trend
and add some artistic flair
to your wardrobe
PERFECT
FOR SPRING
MAKES
Painterly Paint Stains on White Brush Strokes Garden by Holly DeGroot

by Michael Miller, 10 per metre for Cloud9, 3.75 per fat quarter
www.cottonpatch.co.uk www.thevillagehaberdashery.co.uk
Dripping Paint Warming for Chalk & Chrome Brush Strokes in Sorbet
Paint by Art Gallery Fabrics, 3.60 by Michael Miller, 3.75 per
per metre www.habbydays.co.uk metre www.minervacrafts.com
Dripping Paint Cooling for Chalk Brush Strokes Canvas by Holly

& Paint by Art Gallery Fabrics DeGroot for Cloud9
13 per metre 3.75 per fat quarter Sketch book cotton sateen dress, 69.50
www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk www.clothandcandy.co.uk www.oliverbonas.com
SN07.P55.indd 55 28/03/2017 16:35

Japanese flower
CUSHION
The combination of bold gloxinias with a black
and grey border and red piping creates a
beautifully bright and stylish cushion
Project KAFFE FASSETT
Kaffe Fassetts
Brilliant Little Patchworks
is published by
Taunton Press,
priced 16.99
SN07.P56-57.indd 56 28/03/2017 17:53

HOME
SKILL LEVEL:
MATERIALS:
binding around so the raw edges meet. Pin
and use a zipper foot to sew in place using
a straight stitch close to the piping cord.
6 Starting and finishing at the marks, stitch
the seam, making sure you reverse-stitch at
each end of the seam. (See Pic E.)
yard Gloxinias Natural fabric
yard Black Labels fabric
yard Aboriginal Dot Red fabric
27x21 backing fabric
2 Pin the covered piping cord to the right
side of the central panel at the lower
edge. The raw edges should be aligned
7 Repeat steps 5 and 6 with the other three
corners to join the remaining borders. Press
open all the seams (See Pic F.)
1 yard piping cord and the piping cord facing in. At each
matching thread
20 cushion insert
corner, snip to the stitching line on the
cord to allow the fabric to turn the corner.
(See Pic A.)
8 Pin the border piece on the central panel
with right sides facing, matching raw edges,
pinning close to the piping and avoiding any
FINISHED SIZE: gaps at the corners. (See Pic G.)
20 square
NOTES:
3 When you get back to the start, cut the
piping so it overlaps the first end by 1.
Remove enough cord from one end so that 9 Adjust the zipper foot to get a little closer
to the piping cord and stitch all the way
Measurements include a seam allowance the two cord ends meet. Turn under the end around. When turning the corners, keep them
of the binding without the cord and wrap tight and neat without gaps.
CUTTING: over the first end. (See Pic B.) Pin in place.
From the Gloxinias Natural fabric, cut:
15 square for central front panel (consider
the position of flowers on the front panel) 4 Using a zipper foot, stitch close to but
not too tight to the piping cord. (See Pic
10 Fold the backing fabric in half so the
short edges meet, press and cut into
two pieces. On the long edge of a piece,
2 21x13 rectangles for the cushion back C.) At each corner, stitch as close as you fold over 1, press and then fold again by
can to the cord. You will have to turn the 1. Machine-stitch in place 1/4" from the fold.
From the Black Labels fabric, cut: corner, so lower the needle and raise the Repeat on the remaining piece.
4 23x4 rectangles for the borders (to presser foot to turn your work.
mitre the borders, trim ends at 45)
From the Aboriginal Dot Red fabric, cut: 5 Borders are stitched separately from
the central panel, then attached as
11 Lay the front right side up. Position the
back pieces, one at a time, matching
raw outer edges and ensuring sewn edges
bias strips to make yard of binding one. Place two border pieces with right overlap. The first laid piece should sit under
sides together and match raw edges. the second. Pin in place. Stitch the front and
HOW TO MAKE: Mark from each angled edge, where back together. (See Pic H.) Trim the corners,
1 Take the piping cord and with wrong sides

together, wrap the Aboriginal Dot Red
the seams converge when joined to the
centre. (See Pic D.)
neaten the raw edges, turn it through to the
right side and press.
TO FRAME
THE WHOLE
CUSHION,
ADD THICKER
PIPING TO THE
OUTSIDE OF
A B THE FRONT Sam
C D E
F G H
SN07.P56-57.indd 57 28/03/2017 17:53

INSPIRATION
Von has made this stunning pinafore dress using

our pattern from issue 3 and fabric from her
stash. Thrifty and oh so stylish.
Amy Thomas,
Editor of our sister
magazine Love
Sewing has sewn our
Threadcount blouse
from issue 3 too,
choosing the button
placket, short-
sleeved version.
Amys used vintage
floral cotton from
www.remnantkings.
co.uk, which sets off
those pearl buttons
beautifully!
German dressmaker Miss Elbneedle

has been having a lot of fun with
the snuggly sweater dress pattern
from issue 5. Its not just us who
are fans of yellow pockets.
See our ruffle
What youve been

blouse on
page 24 in the
sewing
same fabric!
We love to share the fabulous

creations our readers have made
from the magazine. Were glad that
you keep your sewing machines
busy, and cant wait to see what
else you make!
Our back-page blogger from issue 6,

Eleanor Thomson has been busy making
the fab Threadcount blouse from issue 3.
Were loving the bold floral print!
If youve been sewing using the patterns and

I spent this afternoon making two pairs of stretch knickers! projects featured in Sew Now, we would love to see
I bought the cobalt stretch lace to make the pattern them! Share with us on Facebook and by email.
featured in issue 1 and then received a Flo-Jo kit, as a Tag your Instagram snaps with #sewthelove and
surprise in the post, having won it in an issue 3 giveaway! well share our favourite posts from you
There was enough fabric provided in the kit (using careful bethany.armitage@practicalpublishing.co.uk
pattern Tetris) for me to make two pairs and Ive had a
www.instagram.com/sewnowmag
very enjoyable afternoon making them. My purchases of
Sew Now have been great value! Wendy Hendy Bethany www.facebook.com/sewnowmag
SN07.P58.indd 58 28/03/2017 17:47

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CROFT
CROFT MILL.indd
MILL.indd 1
1 06/03/2015
06/03/2015 12:19
12:19
CROFT MILL.indd 1 06/03/2015 12:19
SN07.P59.indd 59 23/03/2017 14:46

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SN07.P60-61.indd 61 28/03/2017 16:36

Tangerine
TOTE
This retro-feel oilcloth tote can
be adapted to suit whatever tools
or supplies you want to carry.
Just dont forget to pick some
statement fabric!
Project LEXIE BARNES
Photography KEVIN KENNEFICK
Illustrations CHRISTINE ERICKSON
Adapted from
Sew What! Bags
by Lexie Barnes,
11.99 published by
Storey Publishing
SN07.P62-63.indd 62 28/03/2017 16:36

ACCESSORIES
CUTTING DIAGRAMS SKILL LEVEL:
MATERIALS:
3 With right sides together, pin the short
edges of the sides to the bottom piece.
Stitch a seam, stop from each end
1 yard oilcloth fabric for outer and back-tack. (See Pic B.) With right sides
1 yard contrasting fabric for handles, together, pin the sides and bottom to the
inside pocket & pocket panel back bag panel and stitch, pivoting at the
corners. (See Pic C.) Repeat for the front
FINISHED SIZE: of the bag.
10x15x5 deep, with two 23 straps
NOTES:
A seam allowance is used throughout
4 On one inside pocket piece, press under
the top edge , then repeat for another
, and edge-stitch. With right sides together,
unless otherwise stated pin the side and bottom edges to the other
pocket piece as shown. Stitch on three sides
CUTTING: and back-tack, clip the corners, and turn
From outer fabric, cut: the pocket right side out. Press under the
2 12x16 rectangles for front and back unstitched side seams. (See Pic D.)
6x16 rectangle for base
2 6x12 rectangles for sides
From contrast fabric, cut:

5 Press under the top raw edge of the
bag ". Press under again 1". Centre the
pocket on the inside back hem of the bag
9x16 rectangle for front pocket and pin the pockets unstitched edge under
2 4x5 rectangles for inside pocket the folded hem. Edge-stitch around the top
2 3x24 strips for straps edge of entire bag. (See Pic E.)
2 1x10 strips for ties
HOW TO MAKE: 6 Make two straps by folding over a

seam allowance and stitching right sides
1 Measure out slots for compartments on

the right side of the front pocket fabric
piece. Allow a little extra room for ease so
together. (See Pic F.) On the outside of the
bag, pin the ends of one strap on either
side of the inside pocket. Pin the ends of
the compartments wont be too tight to fit the other strap at the same locations on the
your desired tools. other side of the bag. Stitch the straps to
the bag and reinforce with a box stitch.
2 Press under the top diagonal edge

and edge-stitch. Pin the pocket to the
front of the bag, both with right sides facing 7 Make the ties the same way you would
make a strap, by pressing under the sides
out. Through both layers of fabric, stitch the to meet in the centre along the length. At
pocket compartments along your markings, the ends, open up the tie and press under
back-tacking at the top for reinforcement. . Refold the tie and press. Edge-stitch the
Leave the raw sides and bottom edges ties on all sides. Pin them at the top inside
unstitched but pinned or baste them centre of both the front and back of the
from the edge, if you prefer. (See Pic A.) bag. Stitch in place.
A B D
SN07.P62-63.indd 63 28/03/2017 16:36

Sustainable
tailoring:
Shortening
cuffed trousers
This issue Jamie Kemp
takes us through
shortening a cuffed
trouser, often thought
of as a tricky skill
Words JAMIE KEMP
www.maledevonsewing.co.uk
Jamie
SN07.P64-65.indd 64 28/03/2017 16:38

TUTORIAL
H
ow often have you turned up along with a pair of shoes, and carefully CHECK THE
a pair of trousers? It is probably mark the bottom hemline on the trousers. LABEL BEFORE
one of the first alterations
PRESSING TO
people make when they begin
sewing. I can remember turning up my
school trousers as I usually had a pair I
2 Measure the distance from this line to
the original hem (white tape) and the
depth of the cuff (blue numbered tape).
ENSURE YOUR
IRON IS ON
would grow into! Generally it is a simple (See Pic A.) THE CORRECT
enough task but what about trousers SETTING Sam
with a turn-up? More precisely, cuffed
hem trousers. You will often find this style
of trousers as part of a suit, and many
3 The cuff is normally held in place
with a few stitches on the inner and
outer seam, so carefully unpick them is the cuff depth plus . Remove the
of us find they are very often too long. and turn down the cuff. Measure up excess. (See Pic E.)
Shortening the trousers and keeping the from the bottom of the cuff and mark
cuff takes a little effort, but once you
know how its easy to do.
another line. The distance should be the
same as you measured in Step 2. The
distance between both lines should be
7 Turn up the trouser bottoms, inside the
trouser leg, level with the bottom white
line. (See Pic F.)
SHORTENING CUFFS the same as the cuff depth (as measured
1 Decide where you want the bottom of

the trousers to sit. Put the trousers on,
in Step 2). (See Pic B.)
8 Machine-sew the hem in place with
a seam (I have left the kick tape
4 Turn the trousers and unpick the hem.

Here the hem is covered by kick tape,
which keeps the hem from wearing. You
off for clarity). The raw edge of the hem
should be finished if it is not covered by
tape; overlock or zigzag-stitch to stop it
can keep the tape for later. (See Pic C.) fraying. (See Pic G.)
Shortening the
trousers and keeping
the cuff takes a little
5 Once the hem is unpicked, press well
and turn the trousers right sides out.
(See Pic D.)
9 Turn up the cuff on the outside and
press well. Finish with a small stitch on
each seam to secure. (See Pic H.)
effort but once you
know how, its easy 6 We can remove the excess fabric by
measuring from the bottom line down.
Mark another line (blue line). The distance
Thats it, one pair of cuffed trousers
shortened to the correct length with
the cuff intact!
A B C D
E F G H
SN07.P64-65.indd 65 28/03/2017 16:38

Laundry
BAG
This duffle-style laundry
bag is perfect for
tidying away clothes
before wash day!
Project SALLY WALTON
Adapted from
Home Sewn Home
by Sally Walton,
published by GMC, 14.99,
available from
www.thegmcgroup.com
SN07.P66-67.indd 66 28/03/2017 16:39

HOME
SKILL LEVEL: EYELETS
MATERIALS: USE THIS Eyelets are usually brass or chrome

1 yard striped denim or canvas ticking BAG FOR and packs include a tool for fitting
2 yard -wide soft piping cord COLOURFUL along with basic instructions. The right
pack of brass eyelets side of the eyelet is smooth and the
ruler
TOY STORAGE wrong side has ridges.
air-erasable marker
Sam
hammer
1 Place the eyelet ring in position and
use it as a guide to draw a circle.
NOTES:
The size of the eyelets refers to the
hole size. Packs will come with their own
4 Aligning the base and side seams,
pinch the two layers together to form
a triangle. Using the drawn line as a guide,
Mark a cross within the circle and cut
along the lines with a craft knife or small
sharp scissors. Trim away the inside of
assembly tool and instructions stitch across the triangle, then trim away the circle leaving a neat round hole just
All seam allowances are unless the excess to a neat . Turn the bag right slightly smaller than the middle of the
otherwise stated side out. (See Pic B.) eyelet. (See Pic D.)
CUTTING:
From denim or canvas ticking, cut:
24x30 rectangle
5 Turn the top edge of the bag over to
the wrong side twice by 1 and then
again. Machine-stitch close to the edge.
2 2x4 strips for loop hangers
HOW TO MAKE: 6 Mark the positions of the eyelets: you

need at least four along the front and D
1 Fold the fabric in half lengthways, wrong

sides together. Pin and machine-stitch
along each side, using a seam. Trim the
four along the back. Cut a cross, then trim
away to make a hole slightly smaller than
the eyelet hole. (See Pic C.) Insert the 2 Push the raised centre piece through
the hole from the right to the wrong
seam allowance and press the seam open. eyelets, following the instructions, right. side of the fabric. (See Pic E.)
2 Turn the bag inside out and press along

the stitching line from the previous step.
Repeat Step 1, pinning and sewing another
7 Thread the cord through the eyelets,
with the ends facing the front. Make a
pair of loops by folding and top-stitching
seam to create a French seam. two small pieces of matching fabric, and
then sewing them to the back edge of
3 Draw a 3 square in each bottom corner

of the bag. (See Pic A.)
the bag so that you can hang it up.
(See Pic H.)
E
3 There is one smooth and one folded

edge to the ring part. Slip it over the
raised part with the folded edge next
to the fabric. Rest the eyelet on the
indented ring half of the tool. (See Pic F.)
F
A B
4 Place the eyelet tool inside the
raised part and grip the handle firmly.
Whack the centre of the round end of
the tool a few times with a hammer. The
centre should now be folded flat onto
the ring. (See Pic G.)
G
C H
SN07.P66-67.indd 67 28/03/2017 16:39

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NORTHALLERTON NORTHAMPTON NORWICH OXFORDSHIRE

Banbury Sewing Centre
57 Parsons Street,
Your NEW one stop
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Banbury, Oxon OX16 5NB
Sewing workshops in
Please come and visit my shop enquiries@banburysewingcentre.co.uk
Mrs Sew n Sew, 57a Haines Road
dressmaking and crafts
or order online Open 9-5 Mon-Sat
Far Cotton, Northampton, NN4 8DS
for all ages and abilities, www.mrssew-n-sew-co.uk
Gorgeous fabrics and sewing supplies
Singer sewing machine for dressmakers, quilters and crafters.
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1, The Fairway, Romanby, Northallerton, DL7 8AY dressmaking necessities. Dress fabric,
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Tel: 01609 531399
Email: info@sewnew.co.uk all your sewing needs. We also run sewing 01603 716140
Facebook: www.facebook.com/SewNew.co.uk and craft workshops through out the year. Telephone orders welcome.
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SCOTLAND STAFFORDSHIRE UXBRIDGE WEST YORKSHIRE
80 Watling St, Craft Courses Sewing Machines & Craft

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Weekly sewing sessions 47, SOUTH STREET, KEIGHLEY,
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O.UK 69
SN07.P68.indd 69 28/03/2017 15:13

Baby blanket
& taggie set
Be proud to sew for a new baby
whatever your skill level with this
gorgeous blanket and taggie
Project LOU ORTH
www.Imstudiolou.wordpress.com
SN07.P70-72.indd 70 28/03/2017 17:30

KIDS
SKILL LEVEL:
MATERIALS:
2 Join the binding strips together and fold
in half lengthways to make the binding.
(See Pic B.)
GET THE LOOK
1m Dashwood Studio
Paper Meadow
75cm white polar fleece
ribbon scraps
3 Attach the binding to the blanket by
lining up the raw edge of the binding
with the raw edge of the blanket and
sew all the way around with a seam
FINISHED SIZES: allowance (follow the tutorial on page 72).
Blanket: 100x75cm Fold the binding over to the fleece side
Taggie: 18cm square of the blanket and hand-stitch the binding
with matching thread. (See Pic C.) Main Floral On White
CUTTING: Paper Meadow by Dashwood Studio
From the polar fleece, cut: TAGGIE Inspired by a trip to New Zealand, this
100x75cm for blanket
20cm square for taggie 1 Start by taking the cotton print square
and decide where you would like the
ribbon tags to go. Fold over the ribbons,
110cm-wide 100% pure cotton is easy
care and machine washable
12 per metre
From Paper Meadow fabric, cut: lining up the raw edges of ribbon with the
100x75cm for blanket raw edges of the square with the loop of
20cm square for taggie the ribbon facing in. (See Pic D.)
Cut the remaining fabric into
2 strips for binding (totalling
approximately 4m) 2 .Baste all the way around approximately
1/8 in to hold the ribbon tags in place.
From the ribbon, cut:

15 to 18 pieces of ribbon cut to lengths
between 5cm and 12cm
3 Place the print square and fleece
square right sides together and sew all
the way around using seam allowance. White polar fleece
Leave 1 2 gap where there are no This 150cm-wide soft, cosy
HOW TO MAKE: ribbon tags and back-stitch at the start and polar fleece is medium weight,
BLANKET the end. Clip the corners. (See Pic E.) approximately 300gsm, double-
1 Place the cotton print and fleece sided and anti pill
6.35 per metre
fabric wrong sides together and
baste together by sewing all the way
around approximately 1/8 from the edge.
4 Turn it the right way, gently poke out
corners and tuck in the seams from the
gap. Top-stitch all the way around, sealing
Available from
www.plushaddict.co.uk
(See Pic A.) the gap as you go. (See Pic F.)
A B C
D E F
SN07.P70-72.indd 71 28/03/2017 17:30

Binding basics with Susan Standen THIS BEAUTIFUL BABY
from Quilt Now magazine BLANKET SET IS PERFECT
FOR BEGINNERS AND
HOW TO MITRE QUILT MAKES A LOVELY GIFT FOR
CORNERS ANY NEW ARRIVAL
Stop stitching a few inches from
the corner, leaving the needle in Lou
the down position. Finger-press the
binding with a mitred corner. (See Pic
A.) Hold in place while sewing to the
corner. Stop with the needle in the
down position just where the mitred Susan
fold falls on the diagonal (the fold will be on the underside
so use your judgment here).
Raise the presser foot and turn the quilt 90. Raise the
needle then move the quilt top just enough to fold the
mitred turn over to the other direction. (See Pic B.) There is
no need to cut the thread and start the seam again. Place
the quilt back in position and start sewing from the top edge
of the quilt, no need to start at the mitred fold. Repeat this
process at each corner.
When reaching the starting point, stop stitching about
10 from where the tail reaches along the side of the quilt.
Remove your quilt from the machine, cutting the threads.
Place the quilt on a flat surface and lie the beginning
binding tail flat along the surface of the quilt. Slide a ruler
part under the quilt and align the 2 mark with the end of
the binding tail. Take the remaining binding, lay it flat on top
and trim it at a right angle so that there is a 2 overlap
with the binding tail. (See Pic C.)
Pin the overlapped ends together at right angles and sew
a diagonal seam to join them. (See Pic D.) Before trimming the
excess from the seam straighten out the binding and ensure
there are no accidental twists in the binding. When youre
happy, trim the excess and sew down the remaining binding,
overlapping your seam with the start and finish seam to ensure
the binding is secure. Fold the binding over to the back of the
quilt and hand-stitch in place, taking care at the corners.
B C
SN07.P70-72.indd 72 28/03/2017 17:31

10% discount
with code:
lovesew10
NOW MAG .C O.UK 73

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
WWW.SEW 93
LS38.P93.indd 93
SN07.P73.indd 73 03/03/2017
23/03/2017 12:09
15:52
Pattern
placement
Going bold with large patterns can really

make a garment stand out. Alison Smith
talks us through how get the best from View B Back
large pattern placement View A Back
Alison
View B Back
View A Back
SN07.P74-75.indd 74 28/03/2017 17:12

TUTORIAL
W 3
hen cutting out patterned you how a little time spent cutting out A better way to cut a print is to cut in
fabric you may think the only can make a huge difference to the a single layer. Make a duplicate of the
consideration is the straight final garment. front pattern piece using baking paper and
grain. However, with the tape the two together along the fold line
recent increase in popularity of large
designs, the matter of pattern placement 1 The fabric is folded selvedge to
selvedge and the pattern pieces are
to make a whole piece. (See Pic C.)
becomes very important.
With stripes and checks it is clear that

placed with no consideration for the
pattern. Look closely at pattern piece
4. There is a daisy on the bust curve of
4 The pattern pieces can now be cut
from single layer fabric; just remember
to cut pairs where necessary. Move the
the lines require matching around the the side front and a daisy in the bust front pattern piece around on the fabric
garment, but with a pattern this might not area of the front. We have no idea until you find a placement that looks
be so obvious. The first thing you need to what position the daisies are in on the balanced. (See Pic D.)
do is drape your fabric over the ironing underside. (See Pic A.)
board or dress form and take a good
look at it. 5 Once you are happy with the front
placement, pin the side front alongside
and take a view to the pattern through the
Does the fabric have a nap, that is, A little time spent bust line. Try not to have a flower directly
does it look better hanging one way
or the other? Are any of the prominent
cutting out can make over your bust point! (See Pic E.)
a huge difference to
colours or shapes printed in straight
or diagonal lines? Are some colours
dominant? All these factors may need to
the final garment 6 Repeat the process for the side front
on the other side, remember to flip
the pattern piece over. Join the pattern
be considered, and it could mean you will pieces together and I think you will see
require more fabric. the difference between the two fronts. The
To illustrate this point I am using a

very simple daisy-print fabric. I could
2 If this is cut out the garment will look
like this through the bust. The pattern is
on the fabric is very unbalanced, with the
pattern pieces cut on single fabric look far
more balanced.
cut it out with no consideration for daisy prints converging on the seam in the Give this technique a try next time you cut
pattern placement, but let me show bust area. (See Pic B.) out patterned fabric.
A B C D
E F G
SN07.P74-75.indd 75 28/03/2017 17:12

Unisex
KIMONO Holidays or sofa days,
this easy unisex Kimono
is an ideal project for
his n hers loungewear
Project WENDY GARDINER
The Great British Sewing Bee:

From Stitch to Style
by Wendy Gardiner
(Quadrille 25)
2016 Love Productions.
Photography 2016 Jenni Hare
SN07.P76-78V.2.indd 76 28/03/2017 18:32

STYLE
SIZING
36 38 40 42 44 46 48
118.5cm 120cm 121.25cm 122.5cm 123.75cm 125cm 126.25cm
Chest
46 47 47 48 48 49 49
116cm 117.25cm 118.5cm 119.75cm 121cm 122.25cm 123.5cm
Waist
45 461/8 465/8 471/8 475/8 481/8 485/8
133cm 134.25cm 135.5cm 136.75cm 138cm 139.25cm 140.5cm
Hem Width
52" 527/8 533/8 537/8 543/8 547/8 553/8
SKILL LEVEL: CUTTING

While silky fabric
MATERIALS: is the material that
4.2m of 115cm-wide or 3.7m of 150cm- most people associate
wide lightweight cotton orsilky fabric with kimonos, a
2.1m 115cm or 150cm-wide co-ordinating lightweight cotton
would make a perfect
fabric for contrast bands summer dressing gown
1.5m iron-on interfacing or beach robe
co-ordinating thread
NOTES:
Use a 1cm seam allowance throughout
Neaten the edges of all pieces before
you begin
HOW TO MAKE:
1 Stay-stitch the neck edge of the kimono

back just inside the seam allowance.
2 With right sides together (RST), pin and

then sew the back piece to the front
pieces at the shoulder seams. Press the
armhole edge. Sew, then press the seam
towards the sleeve. (See Pic A.) 5 Press all seams towards the pockets, then
press the pockets away from the garment.
seams open.
4 With RST, stitch the straight edge of
one pocket piece to each garment 6 With RST, pin the front of the kimono to
the back at the side, from the sleeves
3 Open out the garment. With RST,

matching the notches and matching
the small centre dot on the sleeve to
front at the marked position. Now attach
the remaining two pocket pieces to the
kimono back, matching the placement lines.
down around the pockets to the hem. Sew
the seam in a single motion pivoting at the
corners. Reinforce the underarm and the
the shoulder seam, pin the sleeve to the (See Pic B.) pocket top and bottom by stitching again
A B C
D E F
SN07.P76-78V.2.indd 77 28/03/2017 16:46

SLIP STITCH TUTORIAL
Slip stitch is used to close

turning gaps or sew double-
turnedhems. Anchora knot insidethe
fold of the hem, pick up a tiny thread
from the garment fabric and then
pass the needle back into the folded
hem allowance. Slide the needle
forwards inside the fold by about1cm,
then bring it up and through a
tiny thread of the garment again.
Continue in this way to complete the
hem. On the RSof the garment all
that should be visible is a tiny prick
stitch and, on the reverse, a small
V-shaped stitch
for 5cm either side of the pivot points. Clip

into the seam allowance where the pocket
joins the garment at the lower edge and
press the pocket towards the garment front.
(See Pic C.)
7 Cut interfacing half the width of the

contrast band pieces and fuse to the
wrong side (WS) of the bands down one
long edge, aligned with the fold. With RST,
stitch the band pieces together to create
one long strip. Press the non-interfaced
long edge to the WS by 1.5cm.
8 With RST, pin the interfaced edge of the

contrast band to the kimono front. If
necessary, clip into the seam allowance to
help fit the band at the neckline. Sew and
press the seams towards the contrast band.
(See Pic D.)
9 At the hem, temporarily fold the band

in half with RST and pin. Stitch across
the band only, making a 5cm hem. (See 12 Cut the interfacing to half the width of
the sleeve bands and fuse as you did
a turning gap in the middle. Turn the
belt RS out and press then slip-stitch the
Pic E.) Turn the band RS out and press. The with the contrast bands. With RST, stitch the opening closed. For extra help see the
turned-under long edge of the band will short ends of the band together to form a tutorial above!
now just overlap the seam attaching the circle. Press the non-interfaced long edge to
band to the garment. the WS by 1.5cm. With RST, attach the band
to the sleeve. Fold the bandto the inside, so 14 Fold the belt loop strips in half
lengthways with RST and stitch along
10 Press up the remaining garment

hem by 5cm to match the band fold,
then on the inside press under by 2.5cm.
that the turned-under edge just overlaps the
seam, and slip-stitch in place. (See Pic F.)
the long edge. Turn RS out, tucking the
raw ends inside. Slip-stitch closed.
Top-stitch in place.
13 Place the belt pieces RST and sew
across one short end to make one 15 Try on the kimono and pin markthe
position for the belt loops at the
11 Slip-stitch the neatened band edge

over the seam on the inside.
long strip. Fold the strip in half lengthways
with RST. Sew around the raw edges, leaving
side seams. Hand or machine stitch in
place at the side seams.
SN07.P76-78V.2.indd 78 28/03/2017 16:46

Alda plant pot 8,
www.oliverbonas.com
Shibori cushion 32,

www.oliverbonas.com
Blue lamp
ARTISTS STUDIO
39.99,
www.tkmaxx.co.uk
Homesense watercolour inspiration,

www.tkmaxx.co.uk
Blue stemmed
wine glass 3,
www.wilko.co.uk
Glasshouse by
Dee Hardwicke pitcher 18,
shop.nationaltrust.org.uk
Pols Potten
zigzag stool 171,
www.amara.com
Inspired by beautifully cool

watercolours, this timeless look
is bold without being too bright
Shetland herringbone throw 70,
www.daisypark.co.uk
Watercolour-print chair Single stem gerbera

379.99, www.tkmaxx.co.uk aquarius 1,
www.wilko.co.uk
SN07.P79.indd 79 28/03/2017 18:09

THE SEWING SHOP
CAMBRIDGESHIRE CHEAM CHELTENHAM CLITHEROE
Bernina - Janome - Novum -

Elna Sewing Machines - Horn
The Raptor Foundation, 16 Upper Mulgrave Road, Cabinets
St Ives Road, Woodhurst, Nr St Ives, Cheam, SM2 7AZ
Cambs, PE28 3BT (B1040) info@stitcheshaberdashery.co.uk All on display at Internet Prices
01487 842546 Tel: 0208 661 6040
www.bobbinandsew.com 11 Henrietta Street,
bobbinandsew@gmail.com Fabrics & Haberdashery Cheltenham, GL50 4AA
Workshops & Parties 01242 244025
Fabrics Wool Alterations info@westendsewing.co.uk
Stockists of Kaufman, Dashwood,
Haberdashery Thread Patterns Windham, Sevenberry, & more... www.westendsewing.co.uk
Trimmings Tuition & Social Groups
DARLINGTON DERBY DEVON DUMFRIES

The Hobby House at Callender Romy's Sewing Rooms
Cake and Craft Supplies For all your haberdashery needs.
We are Darlington's largest one-stop craft shop, selling
cake decorating supplies, fabric, wool, needle-felting Sewing classes for all ages
supplies and lots more! and abilities.
We are open Tuesday, Wednesday & Friday 10am-4pm, Textile Craft Shop, Patchwork Emboidery
Thursday 9.30am-7pm and Saturday 10am-2pm. 180 Irish Street, Dumfries, DG1 2NJ
Felting and Haberdashery
21 Whessoe Road, Darlington, DL1 4LE 01387250867
01325 381463 Sewing Workshops Sewing Parties and Workshop and Classes - all ages.
www.callendercakes.co.uk Afternoon Teas Sewing Club Sewing Machine romyssewingrooms@gmail.com
www.facebook.com/callendercakeandcraft Servicing and Repairs Buy and sell second Open 9am til 4pm Tuesday til Saturday www.facebook.com/Romyssewingrooms
hand machines Childrens Sewing Workshops
1 to 1 Lessons Customised Gifts and Items Devonshire Way, Heathpark Industrial
Estate, Honiton, EX14 1YF
See my website for more
www.sewnjo.com Tel: 01404 549 871
Phone: 07760 330843
Markeaton Park Craft Village, Derby, DE22 3BG
www.thimblestitch-devon.co.uk
ESSEX GREATER LONDON HAMPSHIRE HAMPSHIRE

Reads of Winchester
Suppliers of sewing machines.
Janome, Elna, Bernina, Toyota, Jaguar
Both new and reconditioned.
Many machines on display

Based in Leigh-on-Sea, Essex,
we are a friendly, well-stocked craft
demonstrations available. SEW BUSY
Sales service repair Stockists of Michael Miller, Riley Blake, Makower, Stof,
shop, stocking a wide range of craft
haberdashery supplies Tilda, Robert Kaufmann, Dashwood and others. Buttons,
products and supplies. haberdashery, patterns, unique gifts and craft workshops.
Tel 01962 850950 Branksomewood Road, Fleet, Hampshire GU51 4JS
tel: 01702 512 289
contact@ 1 St Thomas Street, Tel: 01252 444220
Winchester, hants SO23 9HE
thesewingboxessex.co.uk Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm
www.sew-busy.co.uk
LEICESTERSHIRE LIVERPOOL NEWPORT NORTH DEVON
Stockist of Brother, Janome & Toyota

FULL SERVICE NOW 40
(NORMAL PRICE 60)
Visit us at... We have a range of haberdashery,
yarns, patterns and spare parts
available in store. We specialise in 11-12 George Arcade, South Molton, Devon,
for s e w i n g w o r k s h o p s ,
repair and service of machines, with EX36 3AB, 01769 574071
fabrics & haberdashery Patchwork and quilting supplies. Classes
1 1 6 Ca st l e St reet , Hi n c kl ey, free local pick-up and delivery.
and workshops.
L e i c e st e r sh i re , LE 1 0 1 D D 185 Hoylake Road, Moreton, Wirral,
0 1 4 5 5 6 9 8 0 3 4 w w w. t h e s e w i n g c a f e . c o . u k Open 9am - 5pm Monday to Saturday
Merseyside CH46 9QA
www.stepbystep-quilts.co.uk
Tel: 0151 677 7755
SN07.80.indd 80 28/03/2017 15:24

INSPIRATION
Team talk
Whats on the Sew Now teams radar
this month and whats inspiring
us to get sewing!
Deputy Editor FAVOURITE
REFASHIONING WEBSITE?
Weve featured the fab Beth Huntington in
Sew Now a couple of times, check out her
stylish Ikat tote bag upcycle on page 46.
Her site www.therenegadeseamstress.com Stylist TOP PATTERN BRAND PICK?
covers everything from turning a jumper into I am a sucker for clean lines and minimalist
slippers to taking in the waist on old jeans. She style with a subtle design twist. I want to be
Bethany explains everything clearly in her videos, so able to wear clothes that dont date. True
you dont have to be an expert to get stuck fashion never should date, and this is why I
into refashioning! absolutely love The Makers Atelier. Founder
Frances Tobins ethos is to take key shapes
and refine them on the premise that the
Jo simplest shapes in beautiful fabric make the
most successful clothes This is definitely the
pattern house for me.
FAVOURITE Editorial Assistant

STATIONERY
COMPANY?
Happy Jackson
stationery is so
much fun, and
I cant help but
smile every time
I get out my Jenny
Great Ideas;
Cunning Plans notebook to jot down
my next knitting or sewing project! The
Seamstress
Photographer: John Gomez/ colours are so bright and cheerful, and
Shutterstock.com the quirky shouts give everything a great
touch of character.
HOME STYLE INSPIRATION? Editor

For pure inspiration I love Will Taylors
book Bright Bazaar: Embracing Colour
Jeanette For Make-You-Smile Style. Its how Id like
my house to look, but the reality is still
quite far off! It has made me experiment
INFLUENTIAL with colour and the result is a stunning
DESIGNERS? dark blue wall in my front room!
Vivienne Westwood
and Alexander Sam
McQueen. I cant say
I channel either in my
daily wardrobe but
I adore the cut of
their clothes and
the attention to
detail paid by both
these designers.
SN07.P81.indd 81 28/03/2017 16:48

Forest folk
BOOT
LINERKeep little toes warm
whilst splashing about
puddles with these fun
fleece boot liners
Project JENNY COLLINS
Choose your
favourite
woodland
animal
To find the correct size,

place the childs foot on the sole template
and select the corresponding size
Jenny
SN07.P82-84.indd 82 28/03/2017 17:59

MINI MAKE
SKILL LEVEL: CUTTING:

Using the templates provided, cut:
MATERIALS: 2 x Sole (grey or orange)
Fox: 2 x Upper (grey or orange)
50x140cm orange fleece 2 x Leg (grey or orange)
25x30cm white fleece 2 x Cuff (grey or orange)
4 green buttons 8 x Ear (4 x white and
2 brown or black buttons 4 x orange/grey)
4 x Cheek (white)
Rabbit:
50x140cm grey fleece Fox only:
25x30cm white fleece 4 x Tail (orange)
4 blue buttons 4 x Tail Tip (white)
2 red heart-shaped buttons 4 x Eye (white)
2 white pompoms
For both designs:

black embroidery thread
HOW TO MAKE:
1 Using a straight stitch, sew the cheeks onto

the cuff pieces as marked on the template.
3 Sew the white tip of the foxs tail to the
orange part. With right sides together,
straight-stitch the tails together, leaving the
& needle Sew on the buttons and features using side open. Trim the seam allowance and turn
all-purpose thread embroidery thread. (See Pic A.) right sides out (See Pic C).
point turner (or chopstick)
free templates from
www.sewnowmag.co.uk 2 With right sides together, pin and
straight-stitch the white and orange/grey
ear pieces together, leaving the bottom
4 Pin the ears and tail (fox) to the cuff. (See
Pic D.) Straight-stitch together inside the
seam allowance.
NOTES: open. Trim the seam allowance and turn
All seam allowances are 1cm
unless otherwise stated
right sides out using the point turner or
chopstick. (See Pic B.) 5 Place the cuff animal with the facial
features facing up, then lay the boot
A B C D
F G H
E I J
SN07.P82-84.indd 83 28/03/2017 17:59

Sam
AN OVERLOCKER
AND A THREE-THREAD
FLAT LOCK CAN
ALSO BE USED ON
THE SEAM RIDGE
leg right side upwards on top, lining up the

longest edge along the top (ear) edge of
the cuff. Pin, then straight-stitch together.
(See Pic E.)
6 With wrong sides together, line the

bottom edge of the bootleg with the
straight edge of the boot upper. (See Pic
F.) Pin, zigzag-stitch, then trim the seam
allowance. The raw edges of the seam will
be on the outside of the boot liner so the
smooth side is next to the foot.
7 With wrong sides together, line up the

back edges of the boot liner, match the
seams and zigzag-stitch together. (See Pic G).
Trim the seam allowance.
8 Pin the sole to the upper, starting at the

heel and toe. Sew one side then the
other using a zigzag stitch. (See Pic H.) Trim
the seam allowance.
9 Turn the bottom part of the cuff inside to

enclose the cuff/leg seam. Stitch in the
ditch to enclose the raw edge. (See Pic I.)
Measure the top
of the boot before
making the faces 10 If making the rabbits, hand-sew a
pompom onto the rear cuff seam.
(See Pic J.)
to check the size
of the cuff
GET THE LOOK
White, orange and
grey polar fleece
This plain super-soft
147cm-wide polar
fleece is great for all
sorts of projects and
perfect for beginners
4.99 per metre
www.fabricland.co.uk
White 5cm
pompoms
1 for a pack of six
www.hobby
craft.co.uk
SN07.P82-84.indd 84 28/03/2017 17:59

INSPIRATION
DRY OFF
As well as making a fun
bathtime robe or mat, why
not try using this luxury terry
towelling to create a cute and
cuddly friend for your little one?
11.50 per metre from SOFT TOYS
www.textileexpressfabrics.co.uk The Craft Factory 250g polyester toy
stuffing, 3.49. Available from
www.blacksheepwools.com
BUTTON IT
Heart-shaped polka
dot buttons, 1.50 for 20
from www.buttercup-crafts.co.uk
BIG softies
Feeling inspired by our boot pals on page 82? Heres our pick
of all the materials you need to make cuddly companions
and fun felt embellishments for little ones
FABULOUS FLOSS
When it comes to adding hand-stitched ANIMAL MAGIC
detail, the gorgeous Spring Meadow Dont be restricted to plain
Mouline collection from DMC adds fabric, take a walk on the wild
the perfect finishing touch or blanket- side with this bold animal-print
stitched edge. 5.40 for a pack of six craft felt sheets bundle.
www.poppiesandpolkadots.co.uk 6 from www.hobbycraft.co.uk
SN07.P85.indd 85 28/03/2017 17:25

Update
your style for spring
with 20% off all Simple
Sew patterns. Use the
code SEWSPRING at
www.simplesew
patterns.com
Lisa wears the Peter Pan

Collar Blouse (#SR05)
Bea wears the Bella

Dress (#007)
Jenny
wears the
Ruby Dress
(#003)
Elle wears the
Bardot Dress
(#012)
Megan wears the
Cara Jumpsuit
(#SR07)
Eleanor wears the Zoe
Dress (#SR15)
For patterns, inspiration, video tutorials and more head to

www.simplesewpatterns.com
& selected retailers
simplesewpatterns simplesewpatterns simplesewUK
simplesewpatterns
SN07.P86.indd 86 28/03/2017 16:51

DISCOUNTS
GIVEAWAYS
Lovely sewing goodies and patterns
to win, plus generous discounts to
help fill your fabric stash
20% OFF PRYM AT JAYCOTTS

All sewists rely on Pryms extensive range of
quality products for needlecraft, so weve
teamed up with Jaycotts to give our readers
20% off its selection of great products! Why
not grab a mini steam iron which is perfect for
pressing those fiddly seams, or how about
the quick unpick stitch ripper that has
a soft handle for easy use? Enter code 20% OFF AT DRAGONFLY FABRICS
prym20 at www.jaycotts.co.uk to save With a background in the fashion business and a passion for sewing,
on your next sewing room tool. Jaycotts family-run Dragonfly Fabrics is your one-stop shop for quality
has built a strong reputation for being dressmaking fabrics at affordable prices, which is why we are delighted
one of the countrys leading suppliers to bring our readers an exclusive discount in its online store! Simply
of sewing products, and its website has enter code SN20 at checkout when you visit www.dragonflyfabrics.
thousands of products from the best co.uk to save 20%. We simply love the great selection of cotton lawn
manufacturers and brands. and voile fabric that is perfect for summer dressmaking.
Offer applies 13th April 18th May 2017. Offer only applies to Offer applies 13th April 18th May 2017. Cannot be used in conjunction with
Prym products. any other offers.
WIN A PAIR OF WIN A SIMPLE SEW ALEXA

DRESSMAKING SHEARS MIDI DRESS PATTERN
Sharp and sleek, the Vintage-style elegance meets with a below-
Ultimate Bordeaux Worth the-knee length to create a stunning dress
Scissors from Clover 210 for any occasion. Great for satin, taffeta,
are a must-have for linen, or any medium-weight fabric, this
your sewing box! Soft dress is universally flattering and wonderfully
touch handles allow versatile! We have three paper patterns
for an easy grip and up for grabs this issue in sizes 8-18. Visit
a very clean cut with www.simplesewpatterns.com to find more
only a slight amount great dressmaking patterns.
5 TO of pressure needed
WIN! in the process. This
minimises fatigue and
is a real boon for
WIN A COPY OF THE extended use. Perfect
MAGIC PATTERN BOOK for righties, lefties
Using just six base patterns, create an entire and the ambidextrous
one-of-a-kind wardrobe with this easy to use alike, each pair
book from Amy Barickman! Complete with comes in a leather
styling guides, downloadable patterns, fabric case to protect the
suggestions and more, you wont be bored blades. We have
with this great pattern book! We have five three pairs of shears
copies up for grabs this issue, or buy yours up for grabs this
today from www.amazon.co.uk month! For stockist information, contact
Published by Workman Publishing clover@stockistenquiries.co.uk
To enter, go to www.ppjump.com/sewnow7
Closing date: 18th May 2017. Only one entry per person. Open to UK residents only.
By entering these competitions, you accept your email address may be passed on to sponsors for marketing activities
SN07.P87.indd 87 28/03/2017 16:52

WIN
NEW LOOK 6489
The perfect pattern for
summer holiday makes,
this includes a classic
wide-legged jumpsuit,
short playsuit and dress
with off-the-shoulder and
a capsule wardrobe
ruffle options.
Sizes UK 6-18
6.90
of summer
patterns from
If youre dreaming of sewing your own

wardrobe, this fabulous prize from
Sewing Belle could be the answer!
The lucky winner will receive 12 patterns,

ranging from jumpsuits to jackets, that
will see them striding out in a me-made
garment at every opportunity this summer.
Misses Peasant Blouses Misses Co-ordinates

With a floaty raglan sleeve, this and Jumpsuits
top is the perfect opportunity We love everything about this
to use a pretty fabric with a pattern! Stylish yet comfortable, its
border or try a little customising surely been designed with a city
with hand stitching. The neckline break in mind! The jumpsuit has
has drawstring, wide-band and casually wide legs and a long zip
long-sleeve options and would in the back option, while the
look great in sheer fabric. 7/8-length trousers have a shaped
Sizes UK 8-20 waistband and go perfectly
7.95 with the peplum top.
Sizes 6-20
8.95
SN07.P88-89.indd 88 28/03/2017 16:49

COMPETITION
NEW LOOK 6496

Misses Jacket, Skort, Shorts or Skirt
Everyday basics
A classic edge-to-edge jacket is made modern Make the most of lazy days
with the addition of cool shorts, mini skirt and in the fabric you love
a skort! Pick your mix of separates and make
them in anything from lightweight cotton to
durable denim for an updated summer suit.
Sizes UK 6-18 Misses
Knit and
6.90 Woven Pants
Sizes 6-18
5.95
Misses
Skirts
Sizes 6-18
8.95
Misses Sheath Dress

These chic dresses comes in Misses
two lengths, and short sleeves Strappy Dress
or sleeveless. The shaped front Sizes 6-18
7.50
waistband is unique and held
simply with a button at each
end. A standout style for sure!
Sizes 8-18
8.50
Misses Skirts
Sizes 8-18
5.95
Misses Dottie
Angel
Reversible
Apron Dress
and Tabard
Sizes XS-XL
6.95
Misses Top in Two Lengths

with Back Interest
A simple, yet versatile cross back Misses' Dresses
top offering two lengths and two With Neckline,
sleeve options. Sew this flattering Sleeve & Pocket
Variations
make in lace, sheer or sparkly Sizes 10-22
fabric for a special occasion. 6.90
Sizes XXS-XXL
5.95
To be in with a chance of winning this fabulous

prize, go to www.ppjump.com/sewnow7
Closing date: 18th May 2017. Only one entry per person. Open to UK residents only.
By entering this competition you accept your email address may be passed on to sponsors for marketing activities
SN07.P88-89.indd 89 28/03/2017 16:49

SEWING
WORKSHOPS Brush up on the basics or learn something
new at a workshop near you!
GOLDSTITCH SEW CAF
Chester le Street, Durham
The Goldstitch Caf has 12 sewing stations, a range of beautiful
premium cotton, dressmaking fabric and more. Anyone who
books onto a course will enjoy a 20% fabric discount!
www.sewcafe.co.uk
27TH APRIL 15TH MAY

All About Zips Piped
Learn how to insert different Cushion Cover
types of zip. Quite often Learn the process of a
patterns say insert the zip professional finish, including
with this workshop you go inserting a lapped zip on the
home with five samples for back of the cushion, cutting
future reference. bias binding for piping, making
35 and inserting piping cord.
25
8TH MAY
Making Knickers 18TH MAY
THE SEWCIAL STUDIO Sew a pair of cool cotton Dressmaking for Beginners
Tamworth, Staffordshire midi briefs using Liberty fabric. Learn the basics of how
Offering the widest selection of dress and quilting fabric in the Choose from lots of pretty to put together and sew a
region for vintage, chic or unique creations, The Sewcial Studio prints. Learn how to cut out cotton calico toile, which
extends a warm welcome, where the kettle is always on and on the bias grain, sew in a will become your made-
friendly advice is on hand. gusset and attach stretch lace to-measure top pattern.
www.thesewcialstudio.co.uk using an elastic stitch. We look at the importance
30 of pattern markings, tailors
29TH APRIL, 6TH 14TH MAY tacks, constructing a dart and
& 13TH MAY Get to Know Your Overlocker inserting a facing.
Zip it, Button it and Finish it Learn how to make the most out 45
Three workshops to conquer of your machine, including how
three different zip insertions, to thread the overlocker and
master perfect buttonholes, understand each thread purpose,
including a bit of couture work! confidently change settings, fix
Price is for three workshops. tension issues and more.
75 55
13TH MAY 27TH 28TH MAY

Funky Feet Alder Shirtdress
Make a funky comfortable Get ready for summer and make
pair of espadrilles in any fabric the Alder Shirtdress, a loosely
design you fancy, made with fitted, sleeveless shirtdress
durable rubber and comfy perfect for beginners who have a
natural jute. Materials few makes under their belt. Price
are included. includes two sessions and the
45 pattern worth 15
95
SN07.P90-91.indd 90 28/03/2017 16:53

WORKSHOPS
HAPPY HARE
Sheffield
Happy Hare is an independent sewing store based in Chapeltown in Sheffield. It
stocks a wide range of fabric including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink
www.handmadehappyhare.com
6TH MAY 3RD JUNE

Introduction to Sewing Machines Ruby Top/Dress
This covers how to thread up a All materials are included, and you
machine, joining two pieces of fabric will take away an original, uncut
using different seams, turning corners, pattern with you, so you can go
and buttonholes. There will be the away and make the Ruby after the
opportunity to have a play and class. This is such an easy garment
experiment with different stitches. to wear, we are sure that you will
20 make a lot more of them!
40
20TH MAY
Geranium Childs Dress 17TH AND 18TH JUNE
This course involves making a childs Sewing for Curves Upton Dress
dress in a choice of lovely cottons. Jenny Rushmores Cashmerette
The pattern is available in newborn patterns have revolutionised curvy
to age five. All materials are included, sewing. Patterns are available in
and you will take away an original, size 16 to 32 and also have a range
uncut pattern with you. of cup sizes. The early part of the
40 class will focus on adjusting the
pattern, ensuring that the completed
garment will be a perfect fit. All
materials are included and you will
take away an original, uncut pattern
with you.
75
CAFFLE CRAFTS
Hewish, nr Weston Super Mare
Caffle Crafts has been Brother dealers for over 25
years. Buying your machine from Caffle is just the
beginning, with every embroidery machine it offers
free one-to-one tuition along with Caffles monthly
group backup sessions.
tina@caffle.co.uk
19TH APRIL 29TH APRIL

20TH MAY 13TH JUNE
Embroidery Machine Taster Sessions
Monthly public classes designed for people who
want to try out an embroidery machine, whether
they are completely new to machine embroidery
or are thinking about upgrading. Using high-end
machines, you will work through a mini project and
get an overall picture of what you can do. This is
not machine tuition or in-depth instructions on the
different functions; they are purely hands-on taster
sessions to give you more of an idea of what is
involved than you would get from an exhibition, on
the television or the internet. Its a chance to try
out a machine without the pressure to buy. If you
do decide to buy a machine within six months of
your class the cost of the class will be refunded
upon purchase. All materials included.
175
SN07.P90-91.indd 91 28/03/2017 16:53

THE SEWING SHOP
NOTTINGHAM NOTTINGHAMSHIRE REDDITCH SCOTLAND
CRESSWELL
Rosa Rhodes SEWING
INKBERROW
DESIGN
MACHINE CO.
Soft Furnishings CENTRE
& Upholstery
City & Guilds Fashion College
Sewing machine sales, service, Beginners Dress Making Classes
High-quality services in soft and parts. Repair service offered Pattern Cutting Classes
furnishings, upholstery and custom for most machines. Tailoring Classes
designs to domestic and contract Corsetry Classes
clients. We maintain a standard of skill Open 9.30am-4pm Theatre Costume
Workshops specialising in the
and mastery in the soft furnishing, Monday to Friday. Golden Rule Lutterloh System
upholstery and design industry. 10am-Saturday. Creative Sewing Workshops
0115 926 7572 The Old Needleworks, Britten Street,
0115 9402828 Redditch Worcs, B97 6HD
198 Carlton Hill, Carlton, NG4 1FT 83 Mansfield Road, Daybrook, info@inkberrowdesigncentre.co.uk
www.rosarhodesltd.co.uk Nottingham, NG5 6BH 01527 69100
SOMERSET SOMERSET STANSTED ESSEX SUFFOLK
Sewing classes
Sewing Machines
Large range of Fabrics Sewing classes/workshops
The Cosy Cabin
For All your Quilting Needs and More....
Machine Sales for adults and children
Machine Service Registered Kids Can Sew instructor Teach Me to Sew We offer a good range of 100% cotton fabrics, YLI,
Gutermann & Perle threads, a variety of waddings,
notions and more. We have an ever increasing list of
Machine Repairs
www.thestitchacademy.com Sewing Classes for all workshops, and the new Little Cabin is now open.
We have free parking next to the cabin and easy
01225 482413 access with your sewing machines.
27 Charles Street, Bath, BA1 1HU info@sewchet.com 11 Brook Rd Stansted Open 7 days a week from 10am to 4pm.
Please come and have a wander.
http://husqvarnastudiobath.co.uk/
01963 32608 CM24 8BB The Cosy Cabin, The Risby Barns, South Street, Risby,
m.pickles1@btintetrnet.com
https://www.facebook.com/ Facebook - The Stitch Academy www.teachmetosew.co.uk Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk IP28 6QU
Telephone: 01284 811 222
E-mail: sales@thecosycabin.co.uk
sewingstudiobath/ Twitter - @sewchet tel. 07752209936 www.thecosycabin.co.uk
SUSSEX TEWKESBURY WEST SUSSEX YORKSHIRE
Little Sew and Sew

We are a shop selling lovely fabric
and haberdashery. We hold sewing
courses and workshops for adults and Sheffield's newest independent
children. We can also cater for groups. sewing store. We stock a wide range
11B Bexhill Road, St. Leonards, of fabrics, including Michael Miller,
Riley Blake and Tula Pink
East Sussex TN38 0AH 7 High Street, Storrington, West Sussex, RH20 4DR
We also offer classes in a
01424 423375 Sew Something has a wide range variety of crafts
of patchwork and dressmaking fabrics,
info@littlesewandsewsussex.com wool, and everything you need for you 1a Arundel Road, Sheffield, S35 2RB
haberdashery needs.
www.littlesewandsewsussex.com We also offer courses. 0114 2455996
www.sew-something.co.uk handmadehappyhare@yahoo.co.uk
www.handmadehappyhare.com
01903 746 204
HABERDASHERY NEEDLECRAFTS ONLINE
Want to learn
to sew?
Y
No time to go S E W I N G YO U R
ST Y L E , YO U R WA
SALLYS SEWING BOX to classes?

65 High Street, Princes Risborough, Bucks HP27 0AE
Sally is passionate about sewing and stocks
Online sewing bee;
access projects at a
To advertise in
lovely quirky fabrics as well as gifts for time to suit you. Sew Now call
sewers and crafters.
Tel: 01844 345753
Download free sewing class
'Make a jeans tote bag' Noune on
Email: sally@sallyssewingbox.co.uk www.sewingseamseasy.co.uk/
sew-now
0161 474 6997
www.sallyssewingbox.co.uk
SN07.P92.indd 90 28/03/2017 15:23

FEATURE
BASIC STITCHES
zig and zag is made of three straight
stitches. It is used to attach elastic and
stitch on knit fabric. Since the stitches are
smaller than a standard zigzag, this means
there is less chance of snagging and the
Whether youre an established sewist or just stitch has lots of stretch.
starting out, heres a handy guide to the basics STRETCH STRAIGHT
This is a straight stitch with one stitch
LENGTH AND WIDTH forwards, one back and one forwards and
Stitch length controls the speed of the feed is strong due to the repeated stitching. Its
dog and is measured in millimetres from 0 to often used for high-stress seams such as
4 (sometimes up to 6 for high-end machines). crotch seams, but can also be used for knits
Higher numbers mean the feed dog moves as it has built-in stretch because the feed
faster in relation to the needle and the Standard buttonhole dog stretches the fabric slightly.
stitches are longer. Stitch width controls how
far away from the centre the needle can OVERCASTING
swing. A straight stitch obviously has a width The overcast stitch resembles an overlocker
of 0mm, while a zigzag stitch can be as or serger stitch and uses both zigzag and
narrow as 1mm or as wide as 4mm. straight stitches. It is used to finish the raw
Knit buttonhole edges of fabric to prevent fraying.
Keyhole buttonhole
Note that mechanical

machines can only do
regular buttonholes
Left: straight stitch, right: zigzag stitch a four-step buttonhole, while computerised
machines can sew an automatic or one-step
STRAIGHT STITCH buttonhole. Regular buttonholes are standard
You will use this for 99% of your sewing. It and can be used on all types of fabric and for
Left: overcasting stitch, right: blind
is the basic construction stitch to connect all types of buttons. Keyhole buttonholes have hem stitch
one fabric to another. Use a 2.5mm length a rounded end that opens wider for ball-type
for basic sewing, 4mm or longer for tacking, buttons. Knit buttonholes have a more defined
3mm for topstitching and 1.5-2mm for stress zigzag stitch to allow for more stretch. BLIND HEM
points such as corners and purse straps. The blind hem has several tiny zigzags
Straight stitches do not stretch so do not use TRICOT/ELASTIC STITCH and then one large zigzag. It is used for
them for stretch knits. This stitch is also called the multi-stitch hemming and is practically invisible from the
zigzag and is a zigzag stitch where each right side. Use your manual instructions to lay
ZIGZAG STITCH up fabric correctly.
The zigzag can be used as a decorative
topstitch, to finish seam allowances to
prevent fabric edges from fraying, to sew on
appliqu, stitch monograms and for sewing
stretch knits. Use a 2.5mm length and 3.5mm
width for basic sewing, 0.5mm length and
4-5mm width for satin-stitching appliqu and
embroidery, and a 2.5mm length and 0.5mm
Taken from
width for stretch sewing.
Stress-Free Sewing
by Nicole Vasbinder,
BUTTONHOLE STITCH
published by Search
A buttonhole is a box made of tiny zigzag
Press, RRP 12.99
stitches. You can stitch a buttonhole using
the zigzag stitch, but it is easier to have a Left: tricot/elastic stitch, right: stretch
buttonhole stitch. Mechanical machines have straight stitch
SN07.P93.indd 93 28/03/2017 16:54

Master your
MACHINE
Each machine model offers a range of features and functions, but all
have the fundamental elements in common. Use this handy guide and
youll know your way around yours in no time
1
9
THREAD GUIDES
1 Two threads make up each stitch the top thread and the
bobbin thread. The top thread from the spool of cotton passes
through the thread guide, which regulates the tension of the thread
before its fed through the needle.
SPEED CONTROLLER
19
2 A slider that sets the speed the machine will work at when the
pedal is pressed, allowing control and precision when sewing.
REVERSE FUNCTION
3 Use this to set the machine working in a reverse direction, to

move backwards across a stitched line. This function is used
when securing the threads at the start and end of a line of stitching.
3
NEEDLE AND NEEDLE CLAMP
4 The needle is removable to allow you to select from a variety of

types and sizes to suit your project. The needle is held in place
by the clamp. Most machines include a tool for tightening and
18
loosening the clamp to access the needle.
PRESSER FOOT LIFTER
5 For lifting and lowering to hold the fabric in place while you sew.
Release it to remove the fabric from the machine.
4
5
BOBBIN CASE
16
6 Inside the removable cover is the bobbin case, which houses
the bobbin. The bobbin is wound with thread and provides the
second thread for each stitch.
7
8
FEED DOGS 6
7 These moving parts lie underneath the needle plate.

With spiked teeth that protrude from the opening, these
help to move the fabric through the machine.
IF YOU'RE
NEEDLE PLATE 17 STRUGGLING WITH
8 The metal plate directly below the needle and presser
foot. The small opening allows the thread from the
bobbin to pass through while the needle enters to make
THE THREADING ON
A NEW MACHINE,
the stitches. On the plate are guide markings to assist PRACTISE WITH RED
straight sewing and measuring seam allowances. THREAD UNTIL YOU
GET THE HANG OF IT
PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE DIAL Jeanette
9 Used for releasing/increasing the weight of the foot
on the fabric, for example when working appliqu.
You can release the pressure to enable you to turn the
fabric smoothly.
SN07.P94-95.indd 94 28/03/2017 16:54

TUTORIAL
BOBBIN WINDER
Trouble with tension?
Check that both the machine and bobbin are correctly threaded. If 10 Winds thread from the cotton spool onto
the bobbin, ensuring that the thread is
fed evenly onto the bobbin and maintains the
these aren't exactly right, this can cause incorrect tension. Also check
that the thread on the bobbin is wound correctly. If it's too tight or correct tension.
too loose, it won't feed through the machine and make even stitches.
Another good tip is to use the same thread in the machine and the SPOOL HOLDER
bobbin even slightly different threads can unbalance the tension
11 This pin runs through the centre of
a spool of thread, allowing it to feed
smoothly through the machine.
SCREEN
12
11 10 Displays the relevant information regarding
the stitch style, width and length that has
been selected.
HAND WHEEL
12
13 Manually operates the mechanics of the
machine, moving the needle up and
down and engaging the feed dogs. Newer,
computerised machines also have a needle
up/down button which can be programmed to
stay in the down position ideal for pivoting
2 13
on corners.
STITCH SELECTOR
14 Allows you to select from the different

stitches on the machine and includes a
menu from which you make your selection. The
15
stitch is selected by pressing the relevant button
and the number will appear on the screen
STITCH LENGTH AND STITCH

WIDTH SELECTORS
15 Use to increase or decrease the length

or width of your stitch. The shorter the
stitch, the more stitches are worked across the
line of sewing, making it stronger. The width
applies to stitches where the needle moves
14 from left to right, such as a zigzag stitch.
Adjusting the width button will also move
the needle position, which is important when
sewing in zips and piping etc.
FREE ARM
16 This is a narrower working space

created when the accessory box is
removed. This is perfect for sewing smaller
items or inserting sleeves.
ACCESSORY DRAWER
17 Use to store alternative presser feet, spare

bobbins and maintenance tools.
START/STOP BUTTON
18 This allows you to operate the machine

without the foot pedal.
THREAD CUT BUTTON
19 This will cut the threads after sewing and

is highlighted in the screen with the thread
cutter mark.
SN07.P94-95.indd 95 28/03/2017 16:54

WIN
essential dressmaking
WORTH
275
goodies from
I
ts not just the fabric and the pattern that makes the perfect
dressmaking project; its the little extras that give that all-important
finish. Interlining, hemming tape, elastic and even iron cleaner
are all vital to making sure you sew something special every
time weve teamed up with Vlieseline to give away these essential
sewing notions. We have five fantastic bundles up for grabs this
month, with each bundle containing all the essentials you will
need for that next project, including:
Decovil 1 great for purses, bags and other more rigid projects
G770 Bi Elastic ideal for shirts, trousers and waistbands
H180 Ultra Soft Light for use with silk, fine cotton and viscose
The bundle also includes other great products from Vlieseline
to help achieve a professional finish Perfect Hem,
Bondaweb, Stitch n Tear, L11 Non-fusible Fabrics, Iron
cleaner and H410.
For more than 60 years Vlieseline has offered a large variety of
interlining for clothing and creative activities. Its products are
the go-to items for those with a passion for sewing and the
Vlieseline Creative range is suitable for all kinds of sewing from
dressmaking to embroidery and everything in between. To find
your local stockist, email crafts@stockistenquiries.co.uk
For a chance to win one of five dressmaking bundles from

Vlieseline, or any of our fantastic giveaways this issue, enter
your details at www.ppjump.com/sewnow7
T&Cs: By entering this competition, you accept that your email address may be passed on to sponsors for marketing activities. Closing date: 18th May 2017
SN07.P96.indd 78 28/03/2017 16:55

sew FREE
IN THE NEXT ISSUE OF
now ALSO INSIDE ISSUE 8:

l Learn to sew a button band
4-in-1 cold-shoulder
PLUS
top pattern
Cocoon dress
l SUSTAINABLE TAILORING how to replace
a broken zip SEE PAGE 60
l Fathers Day patterns and gift guide FOR DETAILS
OF HOW TO
l Be BEACH READY with our bell-sleeve SUBSCRIBE
seersucker top
l Sew your own shower curtain
l REFASHIONING trousers to skirt transformation
l Get creative with EMBROIDERY UPCYCLING
l Listen and learn our pick of the very
best SEWING PODCASTS
l SKILL BUILDER learn how to sew shirring
l HOLIDAY MAKE try our fly away shoulder
bag for size
PLUS: Packed with skills and styles for everyone,

improve your sewing with our quick and easy
projects for your wardrobe and home. With fabric
finds, style guides, step-by-step techniques and
expert advice from Alison Smith, Jamie Kemp and
The Wardrobe Angel, youll be inspired!
All contents subject to change
Super-cute
cat!
Sew this
stunning and
Fun summer make stylish dress
for kids
Fly away
shoulder bag ISSUE 8 ON SALE 11TH MAY 2018
EDITORIAL Editor Sam Sterken Deputy Editor Bethany Armitage Editorial Assistant Jenny Riley Art Editor Craig Chubb Designer Sarah Edmondson Senior Sub-Editor Justine Moran Sub-Editors Kayleigh Hooton, Chantelle Salkeld
Senior Product Photographer Tym Leckey Photographers Renata Stonyte,Amy Worrall Contributors Jeanette Archer, Lexie Barnes, Carissa Browning,Julia Claridge, Becky Clarke,Jennifer Collins,The Fold Line, Kaffe Fassett,Wendy Gardiner, Claire Garside, Beth Huntington,
Jamie Kemp,Angeline Murphy, Lou Orth, Stephanie Roper,Alison Smith, Sally Walton ADVERTISING Senior Account Manager Noune Sarkissian noune.sarkissian@practicalpublishing.co.uk Advertising Consultant Amanda Paul
Head of Business Development Ruth Walker PUBLISHING Group Buying Manager Olivia Foster Buying Assistant Rachael Edmunds Production Assistant Anna Olejarz
Subscriptions Manager Daniel Tutton Managing Art Editor Jennifer Lamb Senior Editor Kate Heppell Head of Content & Publishing Gavin Burrell Head of Product Development Carol Jones Ecommerce & Distribution Director Dave Cusick
Managing Director Danny Bowler Group Managing Director Robin Wilkinson SUBSCRIPTIONS Subscription enquiries 01858 438899 DISTRIBUTION Craft Store Distribution amanda.paul@practicalpublishing.co.uk NEWSTRADE COMAG Magazine
Distribution CONTACT Practical Publishing International Ltd, Suite G2 St Christopher House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG info@practicalpublishing.co.uk www.practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 0844 561 1202 Fax: 0161 474 6961
Sew Now (ISSN: 2398-9610) is published by Practical Publishing Int Ltd. All material Practical Publishing Int Ltd. The style and mark of Sew Now is used under licence from Practical Publishing International Holdings Ltd. No material in whole or in part may
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BACK-PAGE BLOGGER
5 minutes with...
Fiona Parker
Fiona works in the wonderful
world of costume for theatre and
events and sews for pleasure in
her spare time
Hi there! How are you today and whats on pattern house designs but definitely have
your sewing table? my indie favourites! If you read my blog
Im well thanks. As usual Ive got a few youll know that I am a big supporter of
projects on the go but my Closet Case small businesses and the passion of the
Files Kelly Anorak is waiting for me indie pattern community as a whole.
right now. You can find the pattern at
www.closetcasepatterns.com Whats your favourite fabric at the moment?
Ive been living in Merino knits while the
How would you describe your style? weather has been chilly. They are so soft
My style is fairly classic and modern with and warm, come in the most stunning vivid
clean lines and solid colours. I like to mix it colours and are wonderful to sew with!
up between fun and feminine, and casual
and practical. Whats your favourite ready-to-wear brand?
French Connection. I only ever shop there
Why did you start sewing? in the sale but you cant fault the quality,
I work in the theatre and have always been and anything I have bought I wear to
interested in the construction of costume. death. Ive got one particular silk print dress
Back in 2011 I discovered sewing blogs and that I adore, it has boning in the bodice
was instantly inspired. My nan gave me and the tiniest, most beautiful French seams.
some of her patterns and I was hooked!
If you could give a piece of advice to a
Whats on your to-sew list newbie sewist, what would it be?
for the coming months? Dont be afraid to take the plunge and
I love pushing myself to try new things and make mistakes. The best way to learn is
improving my trouser fitting skills is high on by doing something, even if that means
the list. Ive got a pair doing it wrong before
of Ultimate Trousers "My style is fairly you do it right!
(www.sewoverit.co.uk)
lined up, some cropped
classic and modern Could we peep at your
black culottes and Im on with clean lines and sewing space?
the hunt for the perfect solid colours" Of course! I am lucky to
fabric for some Turia have a large space to
Dungarees (www.paulinealicepatterns.com). work in, but its not as impressive as many
Fiona loves to keep cosy! Merino jersey
craft spaces Ive seen! I love the size of my is available from www.myfabrics.co.uk
Are there any skills and techniques that desk, and the drawers are perfect for tools.
youre looking to master? My fabric is stored in a big basket, patterns
Lingerie sewing. There are so many beautiful in boxes on my bookcase of sewing and
bra patterns around at the moment. costume history books, and other notions
have a home in my nans old sewing table.
Whats your go-to pattern
Thats a tough one I have made numerous What is your favourite sewing sustenance?
True Bias Ogden Camis (www.truebias.com), Cadburys Dairy Milk. Although I often get
and the Sew Over It Ultimate Pencil Skirt is so involved in a project I forget to eat!
a great classic shape. For knits, I love the
Renfrew Tee (www.sewaholicpatterns.com). Where can we find out more about you?
Find me on my blog,
Are you a big pattern house girl, an indie www.chainstitcher.blogspot.co.uk
girl or a mix of both? Or on Instagram and Twitter as
Fionas sewing space
I enjoy the complexity of some of the big fionaparker17
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