HGSKOLAN I BORS

Zaras new visual identity

Malin Eriksson s143431@student.hb.se, Lina Skoglund s141972@student.hb.se, Klara Ekebring
s143407@student.hb.se, Chia-Chun Hung s162441@student.hb.se and Yu-Ling Shih s160918@student.hb.se.
2016-10-27
Innehll
1. Zara.................................................................................................................................................. 2
1.1 Introduction ................................................................................................................................... 2
1.2 Purpose .......................................................................................................................................... 2
1.3 Methodology ................................................................................................................................. 2
2. Theoretical framework .................................................................................................................... 2
3. Data material ................................................................................................................................... 3
3.1 Zaras vision and mission statement.............................................................................................. 3
3.2 Background ................................................................................................................................... 3
3.3 What makes them unique?............................................................................................................. 3
3.4 Branding and communication strategies ....................................................................................... 4
3.5 New brand identity, new visual communication and communication strategies........................... 4
4. Analysis and conclusion .................................................................................................................. 5
4.1 SWOT Analysis............................................................................................................................. 5
4.2 New graphic profile ....................................................................................................................... 6
4.5 Analysis ......................................................................................................................................... 6
4.6 Conclusion ..................................................................................................................................... 7
5. Implication and recommendation .................................................................................................... 7
6. References ....................................................................................................................................... 8
7 Appendix........................................................................................................................................... 9
7.1 Project 1 - The 1940s ..................................................................................................................... 9
7.2 Project 2 Trend research ........................................................................................................... 16

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1. Zara

1.1 Introduction
Zara is a fashion company that has become to be associated with a high turnover of clothes
and a unique business strategy. Its way of working with fast fashion is profitable and gives
them an advantage on the market. They are quickly meeting customer demand and listens to
their customers desires. The marketing strategy Zara has is the word by mouth method. By
developing and expanding the strategies they can reach out to customers through more
channels eg. posters and advertisement in magazines and thereby hopefully increase the profit
ever more.

Many competitors to Zara, eg. H&M and Topshop have a customer loyalty program, which
gives loyal customer benefits and conveys a feeling of exclusivity. By launching such a
program for Zara might strengthen the relationship to the customers and create a greater
loyalty to the brand.

Zara have possibility to grow bigger on the market and expand even more. Therefore it is
important that they stay up-to-date marketing wise and not only focus on trends and its fast
fashion way of working. Zara's potential isnt endless and shouldn't be taking for granted.
They have to stay on top of their game and give the customers what they want both in
products and treatment. If they don't take care of their customers someone else will.

1.2 Purpose
The purpose of this assignment is to change the brand identity to more premium by launching
a customer loyalty program and develop marketing strategies.

1.3 Methodology
We have used internet, articles and course literature for this study. All the information we
found on the internet may not be up to date but due to few good sources we still decided to
use them.

2. Theoretical framework
We have used the theoretical framework by Posner from the book Marketing Fashion 2011.
The model is explaining the connections between the brand identity, logo, products,
packaging, display, promotion, website, brand image and customer identity. The brand
identity is controlled from the inside of the company and is consistently expressed in all parts
of the brand. All the different parts have to be homogenous to communicate a strong brand
identity. The logo, products and display etc. are then expressed to the customers
interpretation. Customers that are connecting with the brand identity may be the ones that can
relate to the brand and its values.

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The SWOT analysis is another model we have used. The model stands for strengths,
weaknesses, opportunities and threats and is used to evaluate a company. Strengths and
weaknesses are internal factors and opportunities and threats are external. By lining up the
different factors one can see how to improve the weaknesses and prevent the threats. One can
also understand the companys strong aspects and develop strategies for the opportunities
(Fallon Taylor 2016).

3. Data material

3.1 Zaras vision and mission statement

The vision of Zara is ZARA is committed to satisfying the desires of our customers. As a
result we pledge to continuously innovate our business to improve your experience. We
promise to provide new designs made from quality materials that are affordable (Zara
Fashion 2013).

Its mission statement is Through Zaras business model, we aim to contribute to the
sustainable development of society and that of the environment with which we interacts
(Zara Fashion 2013).

3.2 Background
Zara, part of the group Inditex, is a Spanish owned company that opened its first store 1975 in
northwest of Spain. They decided to make the brand international 1988 when they opened a
clothing store in Oporto, Portugal. The choice to develop the brand in another country turned
out to be a triumph. Not long after the store opening in Portugal Zara could add both New
York and Paris to their list (Zara Fashion 2013). Zara now has over 2100 stores all over the
world and has become one of the leading brands for Spanish fashion (Inditex 2016).
The strategy Zara has is to make clothes that look like luxury garments but to a more
affordable price. By receiving feedback from a variety of people they can improve and meet
the customer demand. The contact with the customers is important and a way to reach success
(Zara Fashion 2013).

3.3 What makes them unique?

Zara is different compared to other companies like Uniqlo, H&M and Gap and has come to be
known for their fast way of producing products. According to an article about Zara by Brian
Dunn (2006) they are only producing less than half of the products before the season has
started. The majority of the merchandise is produced in the season and it takes about a month
from spotting a trend to have a similar product in the stores. Zaras production chain is

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vertically integrated and they prioritize speed over cost. Even if adding some more steps to
the production line would lead to an increased turnover, Zara still would say no. They want to
keep the supply chain as compressed as possible. Adding more steps means more areas where
it can go wrong (Dunn 2006).

3.4 Branding and communication strategies

Zara differ from its competitors when it comes to forecasting of trends. Many businesses are
forecasting trends months in advance and are building up their brand by creating new fashion.
Zara has instead formed a business around fast reaction to new trends on the market. (Au
Yeung 2013).
Zara aims for a low pricing strategy by using affordable materials and labour and a fast
production schedule. They convey a first class image, a second class production and a second
class price. The design, material cost and advertisement are not expensive, all to press the
price to the lowest (Pang 2016).

Zaras fast way of creating new products makes it achievable to take an idea to realization in a
short period of time. This makes it possible for them to have an updated communication with
the market. By having a contact with the customers Zara can change the design and products
after demand. They are focusing on a customers short term needs of products to minimize the
inventory in stores and the operating capital (Au Yeung 2013). In a year they produce around
450 million items which are delivered in small batches to each store twice a week (Lu 2014).
By having a high turnover a few slow selling products wont hurt the profits (Au Yeung
2013).

Zaras marketing strategy is Zero investments in marketing. They are using the money they
would have used for marketing to invest and open new stores. The word of mouth is relied on
to spread the knowledge about the brand and attracts more customers (Bhasin 2016).

The targetgoup Zara is focusing on is aged 18-40 and live in the cities. They tend to be more
fashion conscious, have an education and are middle class. You can sense their commitment
in how they are paying attention to each detail of the showrooms. Zara is encouraging their
customers to visit the store regularly to see whats new. By integrating other channels like
online shopping and bar coding Zara is developing to be a global brand (Bhasin 2016).

The majority of Zara stores are spread out all over the world and are owned by the company.
The remaining 10 percent are joint ventures of franchises. This means that the customer
experience is almost the same when entering a store whether its in Taipei, New York or
Berlin. The stores are modern, spacious, well-lit and walled with mirrors (Bhasin 2016).

3.5 New brand identity, new visual communication and communication strategies
When creating a new brand identity, new visual communication and a visual communication
strategy it is important to have a clear picture of what you want to convey. By determine
segmentation, positioning, concept, campaign and unit you get a good starting point for
developing strategies. The biggest challenge is to connect all the different steps to create
wholeness and make sure that the customers receive the message you are trying to send
(Bergstrm ss. 51-57).

When establishing strategies for these five steps you have to create a plan on how transmit the
information. By founding a goal, a target group, channels, message, time table, budget and
evaluation you can develop a plan on how you will make the message reach the customer.

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Using images can reinforce a message and communicate a feeling. Your point might be
clearer and be remembered longer (Bergstrm ss. 51-57).

4. Analysis and conclusion

4.1 SWOT Analysis

Zaras strengths are their global outreach, vertical integration, recognizable store image, fast
changing and fast adapting collections. Their weaknesses are limited stock, stores are
perceived as messy, lack of quality and lack of marketing (Zara Fashion 2013). Their
opportunities are affordable prices and a growing Asian market in especially China. Zaras
threats are strong competition, new ways of buying clothes directly of the catwalk and their
imitation of goods (Zara Fashion 2013).

One of Zaras strengths is their growing expansion. They are developing the brand in the
Asian market where they have a lot of opportunities. We think that one of the reasons on the
fast expansion is that they have appealing products and that they can adjust the goods that are
sold in the store by the customer demand. Zara also have a recognizable concept throughout
the brand.
Limited stock is one of Zaras weaknesses but we believe that it can be strength as well. By
having a limited stock it conveys an exclusivity of the products since everyone cant get the
same garment. The negative aspect is that Zara may lose sale and therefore make less of a
profit. On the other hand they dont have to organize sales of unsold items and pay for extra
storage space. One other positive aspect of having limited stock is that the customer knows
that the product will be sold out quickly and doesnt wait buying it. This trigger behaviour of
stressed customers who dont want the products to be sold out and feels an urge to shop
when exposed to the item.

Majority of Zaras products have a high trend factor and are produced for the current season.
That is the reason why we dont see the quality as a big weakness. The goods are not
supposed to last for more than a few seasons or even a few weeks. By making less good
quality the prices can be reduced. Its not a sustainable way of producing products but their
fast fashion way of working makes too good of a profit to change that. A higher price would
probably lead to less spontaneous purchases and a need to think twice before buying a
garment.

The marketing at Zara is one big weakness that we want to work with and turn into a strength
instead. By widen the horizon and using posters and ads in magazine we believe that they can
increase their profit and expand even more.

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Nowadays we can see a change at the catwalks as the customers get the opportunity to shop
the clothes directly after the runway shows. This means that Zara no longer has the advantage
and time to be the first with new trends. This can be a possible threat to Zara. The products
shown on the catwalk are usually quite expensive and therefore they probably wont appeal
the same type of customer. In worst case scenario the trend is no longer a trend when the
goods arrive in the stores. This is something Zara has to work to prevent so it doesn't affect
them negatively.

4.2 New graphic profile

We have decided to make the new graphic profile of Zara more premiums and the purpose is
to make the customer feel exclusive. By launching a customer loyalty program with different
levels and benefits we believe that the customer will feel selected. Starting from the bottom
the different levels will be; Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond. The benefits you achieve with the
card wont be promotions in form of discounts but instead preview of new collections and
priority at sales. Zara already have affordable prices and a coupon with e.g. 10 off the price
does not strengthen their identity of being a premium brand.

The consumers get a membership card as soon as they join the Zara Selected club. When they
have collected enough points to reach a new level a new card is sent home to them by post. In
order to get your points you do not have to bring the card to the store, but it works as a
symbol. The diamond members will be able to attend to events and members only events
arranged at the stores.

We also decided to expand Zaras marketing strategies by adding new ones. The new
strategies is advertisement in magazines and on posters. Zara has earlier relied on the word of
mouth since its an affordable and relatively easy marketing strategy. Their focus has been on
opening new stores and developing new products instead of reaching out to new customers.

The logotype is modified with a black background, gold text and a new extended font. This
will create a more modern look and convey a premium brand image.

4.5 Analysis
We believe that the customer loyalty program will make the customers more true to Zara and
lead to more regularly purchases in the stores. By adding a Zara Selected under Profile in
the application the customers can see how many points they have collected and which of the
three levels theyre currently in. We think that this will increase the customers engagement
and interaction on all the channels Zara have. Customers will start to follow the brand on
social media e.g. Instagram to get the latest updates on whats new. They will also sign up for
the newsletter and start visiting the application more frequently to receive more points to their
profile and upgrade the Zara Selected to a new and higher level with more benefits. Zara
will be the top of mind awareness to more customers than before.

By changing the colours of the bags to matte black and metallic gold we want to convey more
exclusivity to the brand. Both the bag you get when you have bought products, the hangtags
and customer loyalty cards have the new colours and logo on them. The homogenous
connections between the logo, packaging, website and display will give the impression of
coherency in the brand identity.

Luxury fashion to affordable prices is something Zara is working with which also takes us
back to the time after war when people wanted to forget the dark depressing time. The

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economy started to be better and people could afford luxury. At this time Christian Dior
launched the New Look with a marked waist and many layers of fabric in the skirt. This has
been the inspiration when creating Zara Selected. The different levels in the Zara Selected
have a font inspired by the 1940s. The font is italic with smooth curves, just like the New
Look highlighted the female curves.

Zara is relying on the word of mouth as the way of spreading the knowledge of the brand. We
predict that posters and advertising will result in more of a profit than the actual cost of the
work. Posters can be put up close to the actual store so the customers needs can be met as
soon as he or she sees something they want. This will eventuate in quick sales and higher
profits. The posters can also be placed at locations where people usually stop for a few
seconds, e.g. places that are exposed to traffic jams, at the bus stop or at trains in front of your
seat. More potential customers will see the products and a need will be created.

Posters can be seen by anyone just about anywhere. Most people might not even think and
reflect on what they are seeing but their brain will register the poster unconsciously. When
they later on pass a Zara store they might go in because of a feeling of curiosity when they
recognize the name. Therefore it is important that the posters are having the same concept
when it comes to lightning, colours and layout as the rest of the brand.

Advertisement in magazines is another marketing strategy that Zara can use. The ads have to
be a bit more commercial than the posters, show the garments more clearly and have some
explaining lines of text. Magazines that will carry the ad will have their focus on fashion,
beauty and health and is sold worldwide. The magazine will have the same target customer as
Zara. One example of a magazine that will contain the ad will be Elle Magazine, which meets
all the criteria mentioned above.

4.6 Conclusion
The conclusion is that by adding a Zara Selected program and developing the marketing
strategies the company can increase their profit and strengthen the relationship to the
customer. Zara Selected will create an interaction between the customer and company and add
value to both parts. New media will make future customers aware of the brand. By working
on turning the weaknesses into strengths the image of Zara will be perceived as stronger and
give the customer a desire to make new purchases at the stores. The visual identity will be
perceived as more premium due to the changes of the graphics and new ways to communicate
with the customers.

5. Implication and recommendation

To reach the goal Zara has to establish clear guidelines and strategies on how to communicate
with the customer through all the different channels. By actively working with short term and
long term goals regarding the customers experience it will make them stay loyal. Its also
important that Zara is seen as a unit and that the visual identity is clear so they can perceive a
strong image. The customer interest is the key when it comes to the relation between the
customer and the brand.

If you dont take care of your customers your competitors will.

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6. References
Au Yeung, S. (2013). Marketing Communication - Strategy.
http://brandaditofexchanges.blogspot.se/2013/12/marketing-communication-strategy.html
[2016-10-05]

Bergstrm, B. (2012). Effektiv visuell kommunikation. Stockholm: Carlsson Bokfrlag.

Bhasin, H. (2016). Marketing mix of Zara. http://www.marketing91.com/marketing-mix-zara/

[2016-10-10]

Dunn, B. (2006). Inside the Zara business model: fast-fashion Spanish retailer churns out
11,000 new items every season and delivers new goods twice a week. Cond Nast
Publications, 36(12), s. 11.
http://costello.pub.hb.se/login?url=http://search.proquest.com/docview/210808397?accountid
=9670

Fallon Taylor, N. (2016). SWOT Analysis: What It Is and When to Use It.
http://www.businessnewsdaily.com/4245-swot-analysis.html [2016-10-19]

Inditex. (2014). Zara. http://www.inditex.com/en/brands/zara [2016-09-20]

Lu, C. (2014). Zara supply chain analysis - the secret behing Zaras retail success.
https://www.tradegecko.com/blog/zara-supply-chain-its-secret-to-retail-success [2016-10-05]

Pang, Y. (2016). Zaras secret to success retail - its pricing strategy.

https://mpk732t12016clusterb.wordpress.com/2016/05/02/zaras-secret-to-success-retail-its-
pricing-strategy/ [2016-10-05]

Posner, H. (2011). Marketing Fashion. 1st edition: Laurence King publishing.

Zara Fashion. (2013). Brand Identity. http://zarafashion2013.wixsite.com/zara/brand-identity

[2016-09-20]

Zara Fashion. (2013). Brand Positioning. http://zarafashion2013.wixsite.com/zara/brand-

position [2016-10-18]

Zara Fashion. (2013). SWOT Analysis. http://zarafashion2013.wixsite.com/zara/swot-analysis

[2016-10-16]

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7 Appendix

7.1 Project 1 - The 1940s

Introduction
Nystroms framework for observing the Zeitgeist is a way to show how the society and
culture in a specific time is affecting the fashion (Brannon 2010 s.13). By researching the
dominating events, social groups and ideas one can get an understanding of why the fashion
took the form it did. We choose the 1940s, an poque where big historical events like WWII
formed the society we live in now and gave new ideas for fashion.

The 1940s was a decade where events formed our present and made a big mark in our fashion
history. It was an unsettled time due to World War II and the people had to adjust. Not only
when it came to the fashion but also the roll of the women. After the years of darkness in the
war the world needed something new. Christian Dior launched the New Look and people
finally saw a future.

Dominating attitude
During World War II the men had to enter the war and the women had to take their place in
the labour market (Hirdman 2000). Depending on the age, class and number of children the
women reacted differently on the fact that they needed to work. Most of the women that
started to work was already working but was now payed better in a factory job. Many women
discovered that by working they learned new skills and gained confidence that they could do
the same job as only men had done before. After the war women had to return to their role as
a housewife or were forced back to the lower paying jobs they had had before. There was
temporary change of the image of the women after the war. Most women became housewives
during the 1950 but the idea of working and earning own money was passed on to their
daughters and granddaughters into the future (Women at work 2015).

The women had to adopt the clothing to their new work life and therefore started to use suits.
The popularity of the suit grew since it was both comfortable and practical workwear. The
fabric Rayon was a new material that was introduced to the market. America cotton was also
popular to make suits and workwear from thanks to its light and airy feel (Vintage Dancer
2016).

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Dominating ideas
With the rationing on fabrics during World War II the dresses became shorter. The skirts were
made in an A line model and easy to match with different tops. Trousers also became popular
during this time due its comfort and safety when working in fabrics. The trousers were made
out of denim, wool blends or cotton and had a masculine touch with its high waist and wide
cuffs at the bottom (Vintage Dancer 2016).

When the war ended 1945 the women wanted to forget the depressing war. A lot of patterns in
different colours and contrasting trims started to pop up. The colours on clothes in the 1940s
were vibrant and strong primary colours. Navy blue, black, red, brown, green, grey and pink
were some of the colours that were worn all year around. During the spring and summer
periods it was lighter colours in pastel that became popular. The shoes were made out of
velvet and mesh since the leather was needed for the war. Wedges became popular and gave a
height and were more secure to walk in than tall pumps (Vintage Dancer 2016).

In 1946 at a popular swimming pool in Paris the French designer Louis Reard introduced the
bikini to the world. The first one to wear this new swimsuit was the showgirl Micheline
Bernardini. It didnt take long before women were seen in this new ensemble at the
Mediterranean coast. Louis Reards business hit the roof and he kept the mystique around the
bikini with the smart slogan that it wasnt a real bikini if it couldnt be pulled through a
wedding ring (This day in history 2016).

After wearing the practical clothes during the war it was time for something new. Thats when
Christian Dior launched the New Look 1947. The New Look had a feminine silhouette where
the shoulders were rounded and there was a small waist and a full skirt (Koda 2004). To get
Diors the New Look you had to have shoulder pads, padding by the hips and a corset in the
waist. The dresses needed a lot of fabric which made some people upset. Christian Diors
dresses were expensive and not a lot of women could afford this new trend. The new trend
spread to England where both furniture and houses was inspired by the new style (Baker &
Price 1997 ss. 55-57).

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Dominating events
The World War II begun 1939 when Germany invaded Poland and France and Great Britain
declared war. The war continued in six years and left a big mark in the history. The Germans
forced entry in Paris and divided France in two zones. One under, the war hero from World
War I, Marshal Philippe Petain and the other zone under German military occupation (World
War II History 2009).

During the war the clothes, food and water had to be rationed so everyone would survive.
Coupons for clothes were handed out. In the beginning a person got 66 coupons per year but
that decreased and soon a person only got 36 coupons per year. The price for a skirt was about
7 coupons and a top 5 coupons. You could buy extra coupons and goods at the black market
but if you were to be caught you had to pay a big fine. The amount of fabric being used was
controlled very carefully. You werent allowed to use extra buttons, zippers or double layers
of fabric. One lady had to pay fine for three years after the war ended because she
embroidered flowers on panties (Baker & Price 1997 ss. 9-12).

Not even the royal family could avoid the rationing. When princess Elisabeth was getting
married 1947 she got 100 extra coupons but she wasnt allowed to use material imported from
the enemies. She wasnt allowed to use Italian silk or Japanese pearls (Baker & Price 1997 ss.
9-12).
The Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers was founded 1942 by a group of
famous designers. The members got asked by the Board of Trade if they could come up with
four designs of clothes that could be included in the civilian clothing 41 more known as
CC41. Four basic garments were made - a suit, suit dresses for work, an afternoon dress and a
coat. The variation of colour, style and quality surprised people. The designs made by the
Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers became characteristic for the utility
clothing 1942 to 1945. Despite the success the designers didnt get any credit (The CC41 Pac
Man utility label in wartime Britain 2014).

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Dominating Technologies
Some of the inventions during 1940s were Velcro, blood bank, the atomic bomb, the bikini
and the microwave (1940s Greatest Generation 2016).

The microwave was invented 1945 when the American man Percy Spencer happened to walk
by a radar system that transmitted microwaves. His chocolate cake he had in his trousers
pocket started to melt and he begun to investigate why that occurred. Thats how he got the
idea of making the microwave. Spencer received patent on the invention that started to be
used in big restaurants (Hur gammal r mikrougnen 2010).

At 5.29 in the morning 16th of July 1945 was the worlds first plutonium atomic bomb
detonated in the dessert at Alamogordo in New Mexico. The bomb was an outcome of the
Manhattan project. Manhattan project was a cooperation led by Leslie Groves that started
1942 between Great Britain, United States of America and Canada. The case was to develop
an atomic bomb before Hitlers men. The project started out as a small plan but ended up
being bigger than first planned with 130 000 employees at its most (Lr om krnvapen 2013).
The inventor of the Velcro was a Swiss engineer that got the idea when he was out walking
and burdock seeds got stuck on his clothes. He examined the seed in a microscope and got the
idea of the Velcro (Nrbid av uppfinningen som inte slpper taget 2006).
Despite the war people still had time to enjoy themselves. Dances like the Jitterbug and
Hokey Pokey and jazz music became popular. Going bowling with friends or family also
became big during this time (The 1940s: an extreme society 2012).

Dominating social groups

Jews were extremely exposed during the war. Hitler was blaming the Jews for the lost in
WWI and was obsessed with the idea that there was a pure German race, Aryan. The Nazis
started an aryanization of Germany and began to take away Jewish layers and doctors their
clients and liquidating businesses owned by Jews. The Jews were excluded from the society
and had to wear a yellow star on their clothes. In the beginning of the 40s the Nazis began to
mass gassing Jews at concentration camps (The Holocaust 2016).

Jacques Fath was a French fashion designer who entered the world of haute couture 1937
when he presented his first collection. He was self-learned and learned the craft by looking at
exhibitions and books about fashion. Fath worked with many famous models and did several
strong collections. Designers like Hubert de Givency, Guy Laroche and Valentino Gravani
were taught by Fath (Fragrantica 2016).

Hugo Boss was a German designer who founded his fashion company 1924 in Metzingen in
Germany. The same year he went bankruptcy he joined the Nazi party and a sponsoring
member of the SS. Boss became the uniform supplier to SS, Hitler Youth and other
organisations connected to the German party. After the war ended Hugo Boss lost his voting
rights, his capability to run a business and fined a very large penalty due to a denazification
judgement 1946. He died 1948 but his fashion house continued to exist (Hugo Boss 2016).

When Germany occupied Paris 1940 the fashion houses tried to survive (40-talets mode,
Baker & Price 1997 s.17). Lucien Lelong was the fashion designer leading them. He
managed to stop the move of almost 100 fashion houses to Berlin and saved Paris as the
capital of fashion (NE 2016).

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Christian Dior entered the fashion world 1947 with the New Look. It was something new and
a change in the fashion after the end of the war. The new turn in fashion made Christian Dior
one of the most important fashion designers during the 1940s (Speak fashion 2015).
The French fashion creator Gabrielle Coco Chanel had an affair with a German which made
her unpopular with the Parisians She had to look for a new target group, Americans (Twice
2015).

Vera Maxwell was an American designer who became known during the 1940 for her tailored
but casual look. Her suits and topcoats for women were well tailored and had a beautiful
range of colours and fabrics. She was inspired by the Viennas military officers uniform that
she saw when she visited the city. Maxwell created workwear for the women who worked at
for the American company, Sperry Gyroscope Corporation. One of the pieces she designed
was the coverall who she considered to be the first jumpsuit and what she became to be
known for (Encyclopaedia of Fashion 2016).

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References
1940s: The greatest generation (2016). Inventions.
http://rf1940s.weebly.com/inventionstechnology.html [2016-09-14]
Baker, P., Price, R. (1997). 40-talets mode. Malm: Bokfabriken Fakta
Baker, R (2014). The CC41 Pac Man utility label in wartime Britain. http://flashbak.com/the-
cc41-pac-man-utility-label-in-wartime-britain-20207/ [2016-09-07]
Druesedow, J (2016). Vera Maxvell. http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/Ma-Mu/Maxwell-
Vera.html [2016-09-14]
Brannon, E. L. (2010). Fashion Forecasting. Fairchild Books.
Fragrantica (2016). Jacque Fath perfues and colognes.
http://www.fragrantica.com/designers/Jacques-Fath.html [2016-09-11]
Illustrerad Vetenskap Historia (2010). Hur gammal r mikrougnen?.
http://varldenshistoria.se/teknik/uppfinningar/hur-gammal-ar-mikrougnen [2016-09-14]
Illustrerad Vetenskap (2006). Nrbild av uppfinningen som inte slpper taget.
http://illvet.se/teknologi/narbild-av-uppfinningen-som-inte-slapper-taget [2016-09-14]
Taussi Sjberg, M., Florin, C., Vammen, T., Strandberg Olofsson, M., Hirdman, Y.,
Ohlander, A., Gransson, A., Lorsman, B. (2000) Kvinnohistoria. Sveriges Utbildnindsradio
AB
Lr om krnvapen (2013). Historia. http://laromkarnvapen.se/historia/ [2016-09-14]
Mibba (2012). The 1940s: An extreme society.
http://www.mibba.com/Articles/History/5102/The-1940s-An-Extreme-Society [2016-09-14]
Nationalencyklopedin (2016). Lucien Lelong.
http://www.ne.se/uppslagsverk/encyklopedi/lng/lucien-lelong [2016-09-14]
Rosenberg, J (2016). 1940s Timeline.
http://history1900s.about.com/od/timelines/tp/1940timeline.htm [2016-09-11]
Speak Fashion (2015). Fashion history classic: Who invented the New Look?.
http://www.speak-fashion.de/fashion_history/classics/fashion-history-classics-who-invented-t
he-new-look [2016-09-14]
Twice (2015). Citat och Biografier. http://www.twice.se/livsstil-biografi-coco-chanel.html
[2016-09-14]
This day in history (2016). Bikini introduced.
http://www.history.com/this-day-in-history/bikini-introduced [2016-09-14]
The Met (2004). Christian Dior 1905-1957
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/dior/hd_dior.htm [2016-09-14]
This day in history (2016). World War II History.
http://www.history.com/topics/world-war-ii/world-war-ii-history [2016-09-11]
Vintage dancer (2016). What did women wear in the 1940s?.
http://vintagedancer.com/1940s/what-did-women-wear-in-the-1940s/ [2016-09-14]
Vintage dancer (2016). 1940s fabrics and colors in fashion.
http://vintagedancer.com/1940s/1940s-fabrics-colors-fashion/ [2016-09-10]
World War II in Prague (2016). Hugo Boss.http://www.ww2inprague.com/hugo-boss [2016-
09-14}

Pictures
http://missowl.com/the-best-fashion-history-books/christian-dior-
portrait/ http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/g5139/christian-dior-1940s-photos/
http://alchetron.com/Jacques-Fath-1371756-W
http://www.fripperyvintage.com/chanel-jewelry/
http://www.messynessychic.com/2012/04/03/coco-chanel-was-definitely-a-nazi/
http://mephobiadesigns.com/what-about-forgotten-vintage-designer-vera-maxwell/

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https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/223913412700088054/
http://www.thenonblonde.com/2013/06/lucien-lelong-indiscret-vintage-perfume.html
http://www.catwalkyourself.com/fashion-biographies/lucien-lelong/
http://www.clothessaleoutlet2016.com/
http://cainisnotmyenemy.deviantart.com/art/In-SS-Totenkopf-suit-2-399763324
http://www.thedailybeast.com/articles/2014/06/27/adolf-hitler-secret-billionaire.htm
http://wallpaperfolder.com/wallpapers/nazi+flag
http://www.thegorgeousdaily.com/philip-govedare/
http://weheartit.com/entry/225315976
http://theinteriorsaddict.com/breathtaking-new-work-by-lisa-madigan-kaleidoscope
http://www.pictaram.com/media/1226024786141366759_8014593
http://razoniitwitterpacks.tumblr.com/post/132620307701/sea-wallpaper
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auschwitz_concentration_camp
http://dailysignal.com/2015/12/07/pearl-harbor-day-remembering-the-unbounding-
determination-of-the-american-people/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Axis_powers#/media/File:Bundesarchiv_Bild_146-1969-065-
24,_M%C3%BCnchener_Abkommen,_Ankunft_Mussolini.jpg
http://historyconflicts.com/d-day-landings-in-normandy/
http://www.history.com/topics/world-war-ii/world-war-ii-history/pictures/end-of-world-war-ii
http://historythings.com/day-july-5th/2/
http://www.inquisitr.com/1950011/big-bang-theory-is-about-to-crumble-as-scientists-seek-
out-dark-matter/
https://antennaup.org/tag/nato/
http://www.plosin.com/beatbegins/projects/Petzko/newlook.htm
http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/g5139/christian-dior-1940s-
photos/?slide=15
http://www.1940.co.uk/acatalog/french-american-and-british-wartime-fashion.html
http://www.viviview.com/history.asp?id=5
https://www.etsy.com/listing/458732828/mccall-5804-misses-vintage-1940s-coat
http://montgomeryschoolsmd.org/schools/tildenms/mediacenter/pathfinders/social_studies/19
40/1940_index.htm
http://vintagedancer.com/1940s/1940s-womens-dress-fashions/
http://glamourdaze.com/2010/09/1940s-fashion-bettys-winter-wardrobe.html
(Day Dresses 1945 The War Years look)
http://wwecandoitt.blogspot.se/2015/04/futebol-o-opio-do-povo.html
(Backgroud Picture)
http://www.vintag.es/2015/08/beyond-sea-fabulous-vintage-beach.html
(VOGUE BEACH Collection)
http://lastyeargirl.blogspot.se/2013/12/the-powers-girls-and-fashion-modelling.html

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7.2 Project 2 Trend research

Introduction
Spring/Summer 2017 is coming up and we can expect a colourful and romantic season. The
clean and minimalistic fashion that has dominated the fashion scene for a long period of time
gets to step aside and make room for more feminine shapes. Theres lot of patterns, different
mixes of materials and strong colours. We spot flowers, embroidery, leopard, leather and
velvet for example. As we wrote in project 1, during the 1940s velvet was a material that was
used quite often for shoes since the leather was needed for the war. For the upcoming
spring/summer season we will see the usage of velvet and leather in a totally new way
compared to the 40s.

The information about the upcoming trends has been gathered through researches at internet,
different fashion blogs and magazines such as Elle and Vogue. The website WGSN has been
used for information about fashion forecasting and photos/videos from different catwalks has
been central in our research. The process started with making a mind map of all the different
trends and then narrowing them down to two trends that can be expected to be central for
spring/summer 2017.

Colour scheme
The colour scheme that we have picked out for Spring/Summer 17 is based on catwalk
analysis, street style and Pantones top 10 colours for the season. WGSN published a trend
report on colours last year in June that contains a story that they choose to call PAUSE. This
is a story that has inspired us a lot when creating our colour scale.

Our colour board is named spring blossom since we are inspired by the colours during the
spring. We have divided the colour board in three groups, neutrals, primary and secondary
colours. In the colour board for neutral colours we have off white, cream and navy. Our
primary colours are bright pink, light pink, light blue and khaki green. The secondary colour
board consists of bright yellow, orange and red. Colours in the board of neutrals will form the
basis of SS17. The colours in the primary colour board are colours that are the new basic
colours for this season. They are light and give an airy feel mixed with kaki green as the more
earthy tone. The colours of the secondary board will be the accent colours you will find and
wear as details.

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Effluence Ruffles
Feminine and flirty, the ruffles are already established on the trend scene and will be bigger
than ever during SS17. This season, AW16, the ruffles is more of a decoration on the
garments for example at the hems. The biggest change for next season will be that the ruffles
will be bigger and bolder with many layers. The ruffles are no longer just a detail on the
garment, but the centre of attention. They can be expressed in different ways. It doesnt matter
if your neck line is high or low or if your pants are slim or wide as long as you are wearing
the ruffles as the key detail.

The show season is still young but the ruffles are unavoidable, both based on catwalks in
Europe and during New York Fashion Week. The trend that we choose to call Effluence
Ruffles is very feminine as a reaction to the clean and minimalistic fashion that has dominated
the industry for a long while. The materials are feminine in it selves as well, we can spot
fabrics such as silk and soft cotton at the catwalks. Elle UK writes Big, small, neat or in
disarray, clean lines have been banished from many a brand's silhouette, as this season looks
set to embrace a more playful, feminine way of dressing. Ruffle up, we're in for a wavy ride.
after watching NYFW.

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Hilary George-Parkin at Style Caster has listed her top 10 trends from NYFW and
Rufflemania is one of them, she writes; think asymmetrical dresses, one-shoulder tops, and
voluminous skirts styled as effortlessly as a pair of jeans.. Theres definitely no holding back
when it comes to ruffles and the ruffle blouse is a strong key item for SS17. Except the blouse
we can see ruffles on many different types of garments such as skirts, pants with a ruffle hem
and dresses with many layers of ruffles.

We think that the ruffle trend will be essential during SS17, based on that its already
established on the trend scene. As WGSN writes the ruffles are becoming a strong trend due
to their omnipresence on the catwalks of the previous seasons.

The colour scheme that this trend follows is light and soft with pleasant palettes. Light blue is
one of the most common colours on the catwalk and cream and beige is also strongly
connected to this trend. Bright pink ruffles can preferably be styled with a strong red to get a
trendy contrast and its a combination that has been seen a lot, especially in street style.

We chose ruffles as one of our key trends because we can see how fashion is changing to a
more feminine and fitted way of dressing. We are leaving the minimalistic style, the plain
silhouettes and the oversized garments behind. It is now time to emphasize the female figure.
The reason why the fashion and the new trends are going in this direction might be because of
the current political situation. Feminism has been a hot topic during the last few years and
many designers find inspiration for their collections in feministic cultures and art. Its
important to uplift the women and a way of doing that is to create fashion that reinforces the
feminine sides.

Defined Silhouettes
The second trend has gotten the name Defined Silhouettes based on the marked waists that
dominates. The trend is characterized by feminine but loose shapes and a better dressed and
tailored look, a silhouette that we saw during the 40s as well. Even though the differences are
many between the marked waits during the 40s and now, it is pretty obvious that these female
garments and its defined cuts have and will be a trend that comes and goes in different forms.
The material mix is broad in this trend and we can today see a lot of leather, denim and velvet
at the catwalk shows. During the 40s the usage of rayon and American cotton was more
popular.
This is what wgsn wrote about waist focus on their website wgsn.com Designers focus on
nipped-in waistlines, updating looks with wide leather belts, and lending structure and

18
definition to layered looks. Tied or belted high to mid-waist, this look is not only appealing
and feminine, but also lends a powerful edge to silhouettes

We think that this trend will appear in the middle of the trend triangle and therefore become
commercial during SS17. The marked waist is a contrast from the oversized that has been the
trend earlier. We think that by changing the silhouette you can bring new life in to already
established trends. The trend will be commercial because the wearer will lose interest after a
few months. You cannot challenge the appearance of the marked waist in many different
ways. A marked waist is a marked waist and after a while the wearer will get tired of the non-
changing silhouette and move on to a new one.
The colour scheme for this trend is variated and rather broad but we can see a discrete base
with off-white and navy. There are also colours such as khaki and green that finishes off with
brighter palettes in yellow and orange. The pattern that dominates this trend is leopard and
different types of embroidery. The marked waist is seen on many different garments, one of
them is the kimono jacket that gets to be the key garment for this trend. Besides the jacket
there are jumpsuits, wide belts as accessories, trench coats and different robes. The key
accessory for the Spring/Summer 2017 is the belt, preferably in seasons most trendy material
- leather. We have seen both narrow and wide belts defining the female waist. The leather belt
can be worn with all kind of different garments, on top of coats, with a maxi dress or a
jumpsuit and even with blazers. We have seen the leather belt in all different colours, both on
runways and on street style blogs. A way to include another trend from the SS17 season is to
pick a leather belt with a leopard print.

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References
Pictures:

https://elodiebubble.wordpress.com/2014/01/21/fashion-trend-the-spring-art-show/

http://lyx.se/blog/2016/09/09/fashion-week-stockholm-ss17/fashion-week-stockholm-ss17-
jennifer-blom-3/

http://www.kingdomofstyle.net/blog/2015/11/4/my-fashion-moodboard

http://www.woman.ru/fashion/clothes/article/154520/?startLeaflet=1#1

http://matte-and-sequins.tumblr.com/post/98185741993

http://www.eonline.com/fr/photos/17230/street-style-at-paris-fashion-week-spring-
2016/524006

http://glamradar.com/7-stylish-clutches-for-your-spring-outfits/
http://www.happilygrey.com/personal-style/redone/

http://fashionista.com/2016/09/altuzarra-spring-2017-
collection#&gid=ci01f68accc002264f&pid=altuzarra-rs17-1285jpg

http://fashionista.com/2016/09/altuzarra-spring-2017-
collection#&gid=ci01f68accc002264f&pid=altuzarra-rs17-1285jpg

http://www.redfashiontrends.us/street-style-fashion/street-style-milan-fashion-week-fw16/

https://se.pinterest.com/pin/537124693036325041/

Videos:

Holiday Dressings New Frilly Secret!

http://www.vogue.com/projects/13376505/holiday-dressing-modern-ruffles/

Christian Dior - Bar tailleur New Look 1947

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6m1OcMzePqs

How to shoot Runway Models at New York Fashion Week - Look book Photography at
MBFW 2012
http://youtube.com/watch?v=7sZqQHK7v4M

Balmain | Spring Summer 2017 Full Fashion Show | Menswear

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cd4zjBrdcqU

Kenzo | Spring Summer 2017 Full Fashion Show | Exclusive

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8mNnBvFsSRo

OSCAR DE LA RENTA MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK AUSTRALIA

COLLECTIONS

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjevDNPdrbI

Marc Cain FASHION SHOW Spring/Summer 2017 at the Fashion Week Berlin
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhssA1RfD84

Articles:

Bold Ruffles
http://www.instyle.com/fashion/bold-ruffles

For the Frill of It: These Ruffles are a Definite Fashion Do

http://www.more.com/fashion/fashion-trends/frill-it-these-ruffles-are-definite-fashion-do

Holiday dressing modern ruffles

http://www.vogue.com/projects/13376505/holiday-dressing-modern-ruffles/

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