Wiring Your New House 101

Wiring Your New House 101
"Future-proof your home" edition
Welcome to the first step in planning your new automated house. Instead of focusing on the
How to wire, we instead intend to focus on What to Wire, and Why. This tutorial consists
of three parts.
Wiring Your New House 101 includes this introduction, some general comments and
preplanning information, and detailed descriptions of all the various types of wires involved.
Wiring Your New House 102 includes checklists for each of the major subsystems for the
automated home, and detailed descriptions of various ideas you can implement.
Wiring Your New House 103 provides a room by room set of wiring suggestions
Contents
[hide]
1 Introduction
2 General
3 Pre-planning
4 Grade
5 Location
6 A Word about Wire
7 Summary
8 A Word about Wireless
9 Links
Introduction
Since the question "how to wire your new home" appears quite often on the forums, we thought
it might be a good idea to create a guide that will answer that question. This document was
created with the assumption that your house is still under construction, and the walls haven't
been finished yet. You also might notice that we make many suggestions based on structured
wiring design, if you aren't familiar with this term yet, feel free to ask any questions you might
have.
General
Label all your wiring! Make sure you use labels which are designed for use with wire,
since you don't want them falling off after a few months.
Once you are done with all the wiring, try to take some detailed pictures of all the walls,
before the drywall goes up. If possible, use a tape measure in the pictures to show how
far certain areas are from outlets, making it easier in the future to 'dig' for a certain wire,
or avoid hitting it when nailing something into the wall.
Try to get at least two different wire colors for your Cat5E and RG6QS, preferably more.
This will make identification much easier.
Obey all local regulations. Talk to the local inspector BEFORE you start wiring.
Nothing will kill your project, WAF, and wallet, faster than having an inspector find your
work does not meet code.
Use wire that is rated for in-wall use. This usually means types CM, CL2, or CL3. In
short, speaker wire must be rated CMX (or CM or CL3), twisted pair must be CMX (or
CM), coax must be CATVX (or CATV), Fire Wire must be FPL, and security wire must
be CL2X (or CL3X or CL2 or CL3). Checkout this chart showing the full NEC cable
substitution hierarchy.
If possible, work closely with, and supervise all subcontractors. They more they know
about what you are doing, the less likely it is that they will do something that interferes
with your plans. For example, on one installation the HA installer installed two 4
conduits from the basement to the attic. Arriving on the job site a few days later, he
discovered that a subcontractor had used one conduit to run a pipe for the whole house
vacuum, while the electrician had used the other conduit to run the wires for the second
floor HVAC.
Pre-planning
Keep some type of document where you show where each wire goes, with details if
needed.
Many people use a spreadsheet to capture all the details. Some possible tabs are;
o Electric, 120/220 volts
o Cat-5E (may be separated into phone/network/other)
o Audio
o RG6QS
o Alarm
o IR
o Cameras
o Low voltage (yard lights, camera power, drapes, etc.)
o HVAC
A sample spreadsheet showing this information can be downloaded from HERE.
A blank template of the same file can be downloaded from HERE.
Make sure you have everything you need BEFORE you start. Depending on the
arrangements you have with your builder, you may have only a limited time frame to pull
your wires.
Its better to have excess quantities than it is to be short.
An hour of planning now will save you 8 (or more) hours of heartburn later.
The Telecommunications Industry Association (TIA) has developed a wiring standard for
residential infrastructure, known as TIA-570. The original standard was developed in 1991, and
then upgraded in 1999. In 2004 the latest version (TIA-570-B) was released. There are many
parts of the standard, but one of the most important are recommendations on how many wires
should go to a location, and how many drops are needed. These recommendations can be broken
down by grade, and location.
Grade
Grade describes the number of cables to a location (AKA drop).
Grade 1
o One 4 pair unshielded twisted pair (UTP) cable, minimum of Cat-3 or higher
o One Coax, minimum of RG6
o The above results in one data and one RF connection at each outlet
Grade 2
o Two pair of UTP cable, minimum of Cat-5 or higher
o Two Coax, minimum of RG6
o The above results in two data and two RF connections at each outlet
Location
Location describes the locations where outlets are needed. The standard requires a minimum of
one outlet in each of the following locations.
Each bedroom
Kitchen
Family/Great/Living room
Den/Study/Office
No point (measured horizontally) on a wall should be more than 25 feet from an outlet.
A Word about Wire

This section lists the various types of wires. Many of the wire types, especially Cat-5, can be
adapted to other uses. Because of the multiplicity of adapters and options, we will concentrate on
the PRIMARY use of the wire type, and what the wire is primarily designed for.
Security wire AKA Station Wire
Zip Cord
Speaker wire
Fire Wire
Coax
Cat-5E
Bundled Cable AKA Composite Cable
Fiber
Specialty Wire
Summary
We have not mentioned electrical wires for a reason. There are multiple codes that need to be
followed, and unlike the other wires, lack of knowledge with electrical wires CAN kill you. If
you know enough to do your own electrical work, then you dont need the limited advice we can
give in this document. If you DONT have enough knowledge to do your own work (or if you
even have a doubt about your skill level), please hire a professional. Money comes and goes,
but if you goof with electricity and end up six feet under, all the money you saved doing your
own work wont help you.
Good installation principles are a must. Some types of wire (security, speaker) are very forgiving,
and can put up with multiple kinks, bends, etc. Other types of wires (Cat-5E, Coax) are NOT
forgiving, and careless handling can damage them. For example, if you kink a coax cable during
installation, it needs to be replaced. Some cables also require specific termination techniques.
HERE is information about good installation practices.
And finally, some advice about wire choices and usage. The choices shown are what a
professional installer would use for the job. However, a pro will generally carry all the different
wires in the truck, and what doesnt get used on this installation will get used in the next
installation. You do not need to buy every type of wire listed. In many cases, you can safely
substitute a similar wire. For instance, it makes no sense to buy 500 ft of RG59 when you are
only going to use 40 ft. RG6QS can be used instead. Likewise, many of the station wire (22/2,
22/4, 18/2, 18/4) can be replaced by Cat-5E in a pinch. Just hook multiple conductors together to
provide an equivalent size wire.
A spreadsheet showing the correct wire for each application is attached HERE].
A Word about Wireless

A frequent question is Why should I run all these wires, when I can get a wireless network card
for my laptop at the XYZ Bargain Basement for $39.95? Why cant I just use a cordless
phone? The basic answer is performance and security. While the performance of wireless cards
has increased, it is still far below the performance of a wired connection. Also, there is no
comparison between the security of a wired connection vs. a wireless one.
Many people do use a cordless phone exclusively, and installing wires does not preclude that
option. However, some people dont use cordless phones, and cordless phones do not work when
the power is out. The only (practical) time you can install wires is during construction, and the
cost is not negligible. Put the wires in now, and you will be ready for any future eventuality.
Links
Continue to Wiring Your New House 102, where we have some pointers on where to run wires,
and how to prepare for some future projects.

Checklist to be used with this guide can be downloaded from the CT downloads section
http://www.cocoontech.com/forums/index.php?autocom=downloads&showfile=118
Contents
[hide]
1 Electrical
o 1.1 General HA/HT Electrical Tips
o 1.2 Tips for Systems using PLC Communications
o 1.3 Interesting Electrical Options
2 Audio
o 2.1 Tips for Whole House Audio Systems
o 2.2 Tips for Home Theater Audio
o 2.3 Tips for Music Outside
3 Video
o 3.1 General Video Tips
o 3.2 OTA/HD Video Tips
o 3.3 Satellite Dish Tips
o 3.4 Cable TV Tips
o 3.5 Video Distribution
o 3.6 Video Modulators
o 3.7 Home Theatre video
4 Phone
o 4.1 General Phone Tips
o 4.2 Hardware PBX
o 4.3 Software PBX
o 4.4 VoIP
o 4.5 Network
5 Security
o 5.1 Keypads
o 5.2 Sensors
o 5.3 Contacts
o 5.4 Cameras
6 HVAC
7 Conduit
8 Touch screens
9 Wiring Closet
10 Automation
11 Links
Electrical
General HA/HT Electrical Tips
Make sure you have a neutral at all switch locations. Most high-quality switches require a
neutral.
Always use deep electrical boxes for outlets and switches. Most of the remote controlled
switches are larger than their non-remote counterparts. You will need the extra room. An
alternative to deep boxes is to install larger (4x4) square boxes, and then install a single-gang-
mud ring.
If you plan on using RF switches in the future, such as Z-wave, or ZigBee, go with non-metallic
boxes, since metal ones could interfere with reception.
Make sure you install a whole house surge protector(s). Depending on the number of main
panels you have, you might need more than one surge protector. For example, if you have a 400-
amp service with two 200-amp panels, you will need a surge protector for each panel.
If you plan to use a backup generator, don't forget to plan your electrical circuits such that they
can be easily divided into critical zones hooked to the generator, and non-critical.
If you intend to use a backup generator, you will need a separate surge protector on the
generator feed. Generators are NOT known for producing clean power, and surges from the
generator can be just as destructive as ones from the power line.
If you are not planning on installing central air, it is a good idea to create separate circuits for
window AC units. This helps isolate electrical noise and surges created by the Window AC units.
Depending on the brand/model of switch you intend to install, you may need to match your
switch colors to the intended paint color of the room. On many switches, you cannot change the
color of the paddle without replacing the entire switch. Also, consider color coordinating the
receptacles. Also, white from brand A may not be the same as white from brand B. If you are
planning one mixing equipment from different manufacturers
Use snap-on mud rings or dual voltage boxes so you can mount LV and HV side-by-side for a
clean, neat look. Snap-on mud rings connect to the side of an electrical box, and provide all the
mounting needed for LV cables and jacks. A dual voltage box has a partition in the middle to
separate the LV side from the HV side. Instead of having two separate single gang boxes (one for
HV and one for LV), you instead end up with a double (or more) gang box that contains both the
HV and LV in one location.
Overwire! In short, do not settle for your electrical system meeting code. You want the system
to exceed the code, especially on the number and placement of receptacles. For example, the
NEC requires receptacles to be placed so that no point of a wall is more than 6 ft. horizontally
from a receptacle. This means that if you have a 12 ft. long wall, a receptacle in the middle will
meet code. If you use a 12 ft. x 12 ft. room as your home office, will you be satisfied with a total
of 4 receptacles? Given the profusion of electrical devices in a modern home, the demand for
receptacles is very high (especially if you are into HA/HT). There are several possible techniques
to solve these problems.
o Consider asking the electrician to use a 4 ft. rule instead of 6 ft. In the example given
above, this would double the number of outlets to 8.
o Look at how you decorate. Some people like to put items (lamps, TVs, etc) in corners. In
this case, you might want to put an outlet in the corner, and then start using the 4 ft.
rule.
o Consider the intended use of the room. Some rooms will demand extra outlets.
Home Offices
TV/Media rooms
Home Theatres
Locations where you plan to have extensive holiday decorations.
Play rooms (and your kids have how many electronic gadgets)?
Exercise rooms (If you have a lot of electric powered machines, i.e. a treadmills,
you might need a 20-amp circuit instead of a 15 amp.
Automation rooms
o The goal is to NEVER have to use an extension cord inside the house.
Plan on running a dedicated 20A circuit (or two) to your future media center and Home Theatre.
Clean power to the components is well worth it.
Likewise, plan on multiple dedicated circuits to the automation room (there is a full section
about this further on below).
If you plan on using a hard-wired lighting system, determine the wiring needs now.
o The HAI/OnQ ALC system requires a daisy chain run of Cat-5 to each switch location.
o Centralite requires all switches to be home run to the lighting cabinet.
Tips for Systems using PLC Communications
Plan for a coupler/repeater if using a PLC based system. These normally are mounted at the
electrical panel, and require 2 dedicated breakers (one on each phase).
If you are using a PLC based system, get the electrician to run separate circuits for lighting and
wall plugs in each room. In other words, lights on one circuit, and the plugs on another. This
makes it easier to debug PLC problems, and also eliminates the "my defective toaster popped
the breaker and now I'm sitting in the dark" syndrome (for the later reason, its still nice to do
this even if you are not using PLC).
If you plan on using a Compose Lighting system, consider installing the Lightolier Rough-In
enclosures. They make a very nice finished look, and allow you to add firewalls at a later date.
Install a dedicated circuit for your primary PLC transmitter/receiver. This isolates the unit from
noise and interference, allowing optimal performance. A frequent boo-boo is to plug in the PLC
interface right next to a computer UPS, AKA a signal sucker.
Interesting Electrical Options
These are items that you might want to consider in preparation for future projects. Some are not
really HA/HT related, but just nice to have. Of course, making your home more enjoyable is the
reason for HA, so maybe they are HA related.
Holiday lighting
Put switched outlets under the eaves and in a few places at ground level around the outside of
the house for decoration.
If you have a large Christmas tree, or use lots of lights, consider a dedicated circuit for it. If you
have a large room, also consider putting receptacles in the middle in the floor. These can provide
power for a tree or lamps in the middle of the room, without having to run extension cords.
Make sure there is an outlet (preferably switched) near the front door for a wreath, or similar
lighted options.
Be sure to include spare outlets in attics for an ultrasonic pest repellent and such. It also allows
you to plug in a fan when working up there.
Consider switched attic lighting, so when you go up there you can flip a switch and see.
Code requires a minimal number of outside outlets on the house. You might want to have an
outlet on each side of the house so you dont have to run an extension cord all over the place to
power the hedge clippers.
If you plan on having security cameras, consider the power needs for the type of camera you
intend to install. Some units require power at the end destination, while other will require it at
the camera location.
Do you intend to have a fishpond, fountain, or other outside water attraction? You might need
power for pumps, lights, etc. How about a birdbath heater? Note: There are extra code
requirements whenever you mix water and electricity (or more accurately, whenever you DONT
want to mix them). Make sure you do things correctly.
If you plan to have decorative yard lighting (either LV or HV), you will need power for them, and
some way to control them. If you plan one controlling them from a plug-in module, try to locate
the module someplace protected from the elements.
If you have a larger yard, consider running power to other spots on the property. These
additional outlets can be used for decorations, yard work, or someplace for the kids to plug in
their boom box.
Plan for task lighting/floodlights outside. These lights should be mounted high on the sides of
the house, and can be either halogen or regular spotlights. If you plan to control them remotely,
make you stay within the switches power limits. Spotlights, especially halogens, add up quickly.
Look around for places that you MIGHT want electricity in the future, either for electrical
appliances, or lighting. Some suggestions that require either a switch, or receptacle are;
o Lighting for picture frames or artwork
o Lighting for cabinets holding collectables
o Bannister lights
o In the kitchen
Under cabinet lighting
In cabinet lighting
Above cabinet lighting
Kick-space lighting
Decorations
Do you want a fan over the kitchen table?
o On the deck/patio
Lights on/under the railing

Accent lighting
Task lighting over the grill
Decorations
o In the bedroom
Do you want a ceiling fan?
Up lighting in a tray ceiling
Task lighting around the mirror
o In the living/great room
An outlet near the fireplace mantle for decorations or lights
Spotlights on the mantle
If you have a stone chimney, consider putting lights on the ceiling, around a foot from the
chimney. These lights will bring out the texture of the chimney
Ceiling fan(s)
Consider putting lights in the closets. There are in-expensive switches that can be put in the
doorjambs that will automatically turn the light on and off
Depending on how much you plan on installing automation, you can wire the house without 3-
way (or 4-way, etc) switches. Then install the loads in out of the way locations and put multi-
button remote control at the locations where you normally would have had switches. When you
do this, it eliminates the "switch banks" that normally crop up around the doorways, especially
exterior doors. Very versatile, and it removes a lot of visual clutter.
In some locations, increase the size of the box by one space (i.e. 1 single gang is replaced by a 2-
gange, a 2-gange by a 2-gang, etc.). The extra space can be used for a multi-button remote
control.
Plan for future LCD/Plasma installations. If you know where they would go, you should power for
them now. Dont forget the LV connections either.
If its a large house, consider installing power for a high-speed hot water recycling pump, such as
THIS. This will provide hot water without having to wait 2-3 minutes for the hot water to arrive
from the basement. Alternatively, consider a point-source tankless water heater.
Audio
Tips for Whole House Audio Systems
Run Cat-5E to every keypad location
Consider installing dual coil speakers in smaller rooms. This will allow stereo sound with only a
single speaker.
Central Amplifier types
o Requires a larger gauge speaker wire because of the greater distance. Consider 16/4 for
most runs, and 14/4 for runs over 100 ft.
o Plan on running the speaker wire to the keypad location, then to the speakers. Some
keypads have a local disconnect built-in
Distributed Amplifier types
o Only Cat-5E needed between main unit and keypad
o Does not require a large gauge wire. 18/2 is sufficient
o Plan on adding a point source input, i.e. play an iPod through the room speakers.
o There are now some speakers that are IP based. Plan on installing Cat-5E if you are
considering this option.
Tips for Home Theater Audio
Use a good quality 14 (or 12) gauge speaker wire
If possible, build the theater in such a way that you can change speaker configurations easily.
State of the art today is 7.1, in four years it will be??
Realize that optimal speaker placement for a Home Theater is NOT the same as optimal speaker
placement for listening to music. Music listening is centered to the front of the viewer (concert
hall) while home theater is front, sides, and back.
Current speaker configurations
o 5.1
Center front
Left front and right front
Left surround and right surround

Woofer
o 6.1
Center front
Rear surround
Woofer
o 7.1
Center front
Left rear surround and right rear surround
Woofer
o Future??
Run good quality interconnects
o (RG6QS can be used for digital connections
o Specialty cables are also available
o Optical is the third (and best) choice
Tips for Music Outside
Usually requires more power, and longer wire runs, so plan on installing a heavier gauge wire
Use wire that is UV resistant, and/or made for direct burial
Possible speaker positions/types
o Planter speakers
o Hanging basket speakers
o Under deck/eave speakers
o Omni-directional garden speakers
Determine how the outside system can be controlled?
o Keypads located near the door
o Water-proof/water-resistant keypads outside
Make sure the outside speakers are set to default to the Off/Mute position! Your neighbors
probably wont like listening to Metallica at 3 AM.
Video
General Video Tips
Compression type connectors are preferable to crimp style connectors. Not only are the stronger
and less likely to come lose, they are also better maintain the separation between the inner and
outer parts of the Coax.
Do NOT use the cheap F connectors that screw (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?

productId=2062632&cp=&kw=75+ohm+Coax&parentPage=search) onto the wire. There is a very
easy reason for this. They are horrid!
Avoid using push-on connectors inside the wall. They can work lose over time. You should
actually try to avoid push-on connectors on all cases.
Make sure that you account for all required Coax feeds coming into the house (from the street or
the attic). Just because you dont have a satellite dish now doesnt mean you wont have one in
the future.
OTA/HD Video Tips
Yes Virginia, there is a place for Over-The-Air (OTA) reception in your automated house. Its
called High-Definition TV (HDTV), and it exists right now.
At some point in the future (within the next 5 years), all analog TV transmittions will be replaced
by digital signals. Congress has set a firm date for the switchover, but as with anything involving
politicians, dates and deadlines are subject to (numerous) change(s).
The format for digital OTA transmittions is not the same as the format for digital cable. Cable
companies MAY carry the digital broadcasts exactly as broadcast. Then again, they may not. See
the comment about politicians above
Use RG-6 Quad Shield Coaxial cable with a solid copper (not copper plated over steel) center
core. The higher quality Coax is required for HD video.
Satellite Dish Tips
You will need to use a minimum of 3 GHz (RG6QS Coax for satellite reception.
The number of Coax runs varies depending on the type of dish and service you have. Plan on
running 4 Coaxial cables for EACH dish you plan on mounting. For example, if you plan on both
DirecTV and Dish network dishes, you will need a total of 8 Coax runs.
If you plan on using a satellite Internet connection, add an additional two Coax cable runs.
For those people who live in snow country, dont forget to run wires for a dish heater/de-icer.
One pair of 18-gauge wire (or larger) is usually sufficient, but check your ratings just in case.
Cable TV Tips
If you use a high quality Coaxial cable ((RG6QS), you will be ready for both analog and digital
cable.
Most cable companies will place the cable NID near the electrical panel, so make sure you have a
Coax run between there and the wiring closet.
Make provisions for whole house surge protection where the cable enters the house.
Video Distribution
Run at least 4 (RG6QS Coax cables to each entertainment center location, and 3 Cat-5E cables.
This will give you the flexibility of being able to send signals back to the wiring closet, and also
have IP connectivity, serial connectivity, etc.
Dont forget to have a few cable drops outside on the deck or patio. Weather permitting, you can
always watch the NASCAR outside.
Any location that has a Coax feed coming in from the wiring closet should also have a Coax feed
returning to the closet. This allows you to send local A/V signals back to the wiring closet for
distribution throughout the house.
Most splitters divide the signal evenly between the available taps. As an example from a four-
output setup, a four-way splitter will yield 25% of the signal for each tap. If you used multiple
two-way splitters in-line, you would get a breakout of 25%, 12.5%, 6.25% and 6.25%.
A distribution amplifier is preferred over multiple splitters. Unlike splitters, a distribution

amplifier will allow you to split the signal multiple times with degradation. The better
distribution amplifiers allow variable amplification, so you can use just the amount of
amplification needed.
Seal unused taps with a 75-ohm terminator (http://www.channelplus.com/product_detail.php?
productId=17). This equalizes the signal among the remaining taps, and also prevents outside
interference from entering the distribution system.
Buy good quality, name brand splitters. The cheap ones you get at the local department or
electronics store are horrible. You get what you paid for. Also, dont assume that just because
you got it from your cable company that it is good quality. A good quality splitter will keep the
signal on the center conductor equidistant from the braid throughout the splitter, while poor
quality ones will not. Since the only way to check this is to open the unit up (usually destroying
it), the only way to make sure is to spend the money for a name brand unit.
Consider offbeat locations for video.
o Under-counter TV in the Kitchen, or a TV mounted on the refrigerator door.
o Display units behind the mirrors in the bathrooms.
Video Modulators
Modulators are used to modulate an audio/video signal into a RF signal that can be fed into the
house video distribution system. Modulation is primarily used for video cameras, but can also be
used to distribute signals from a VCR or DVD player.
However, the future of modulators is very blurry (no pun intended). In the past, there was plenty
of spare room on cable systems, so it was easy to modulate signals into blank channels. Now
though, most cable systems do not have unused channels so there is little space to put a
modulated channel. There are special notch filters that block a set of incoming channels,
allowing modulated signals to be inserted instead. This works well, if the user can find a block of
channels that are not wanted. Also, modulators do NOT co-exist well with digital cable signals.
If you have digital cable, forget about using a modulator.
Finally, there is the upcoming switch from analog broadcast channels to digital. As TV
manufacturers stop making sets with analog tuners, where will modulators fit in? Stay tuned.
For any place where you might want a modulator, make sure to run Coax back to the wiring
closet. Very few people have complained about running too much Coax, but MANY people have
complained about not running enough.
If you run a wire for a modulator, consider running a Cat-5E also. There are adaptors for running
composite video signals over Cat-5E. The Cat-5E will also work if you use an IP camera.
Consider using IP cameras. They dont fit well into the current analog RF world, but are much
more likely to interface in the coming digital world.
Consider having 2 (or more) Coax feeds to each location. Many TVs now have multiple inputs,
allowing you to use one input for cable, and the other for your own private network of
modulators.
Home Theatre video
Use mini-Coax for the connections behind the equipment. Because of its smaller size, mini-Coax
is more flexible and has a smaller bend radius, making it much easier to run behind the
equipment.
If possible, make provisions for multiple feed types (I.E. RGB, composite, S-video, etc.) from the
equipment to the projector/video display location. This will allow you flexibility to replace
equipment at a later date.
Even better, design the room so that you can easily run new wires at a later date.
Home Theatre wall plates like this (http://www.onqlegrand.com/jahia/Jahia/lang/en/pid/1512)

make for a very neat and clean installation. Just make sure that you do not lock yourself into a
configuration that limits you in the future. The unit pictured is very flexible, but some of the
cheaper models/brands are not.
While not related to wiring, plan on installing sound barriers/insulation around the HT. The HT
experience will not be enhanced by the sound of someone flushing a toilet upstairs.
Phone
General Phone Tips
Use a minimum of Cat-5E. Currently, the FCC allows Cat-3 wire for phones, but every other
electronics association recommends Cat-5. Cat-5 has been almost completely supplanted by Cat-
5E, so just use the same wire you use for your network wiring.
If you use RJ45 jacks at the wall, you will still be able to plug in your regular phone or a network
cable. Both telephone plugs, and network connections can plug into a RJ45. Using RJ45s
throughout the house gives you the flexibility to quickly switch the use of the jack, without
punching down a new jack. (Warning, plugging computer equipment into a jack connected to the
phone system will result in all the smoke escaping from your computer equipment. If you choose
to use this method, make sure you label the jacks thoroughly)
Make sure you install telephone surge protection where the phone line enters the house. Do not
depend on the phone company surge protectors.
Consider putting one or two phone jacks in the patio/deck area. There are occasions that you
might want a non-cordless phone outside.
Hardware PBX
Make sure the inputs and outputs to the PBX are easily configurable. That way you can mix-and-
match, i.e. local Telco on line 1, VoIP on line 2, output from Homeseer (TTS on line 3, etc.
Many PBXs have provisions for door phones, so make sure you run the necessary wires. If the
PBX offers an option for electric door strikes, dont forget to run wires for that also.
If desired, run wires for music-on-hold from the PBX to your music source. Usually, this is a
simple mono connection.
If desired, run wires for paging. Again, this is a simple mono connection coming from the PBX to
the PA system.
If most PBXs lose electrical power, they are inoperative. Plan on having a UPS for the PBX
Run a Cat-5E to the PBX from a computer location. The Cat-5E can be used to carry RS232 for
programming. If the PBX uses USB, run the appropriate wire.
Software PBX
One of the better opensource PBX platforms is Asterisk (http://www.asterisk.org/)
Wiring requirements are very similar to the hardware PBX,
VoIP
Most VoIP adaptors will not support more than one or two telephones because of power
limitations. If you want VoIP access throughout the entire house, plan on hooking the VoIP
adaptor up to a PBX (which then supplies the necessary power).
For maximum flexibility, make sure the output from the VoIP adaptor feeds into a patch panel.
Likewise, some VoIP adapters go between the cable/DSL modem and the router, while others go
after the router. Design your system so either configuration will work.
Non-KSU systems (1, 2, 3, or 4 lines)
For every two phone lines, you will need one RJ11 jack. If you want to have 3 or 4 lines, you will
need two phone jacks side-by-side to connect to.
Generally, the advanced features of a multi-line phone will only work with another phone of the
same type. Plan accordingly.
In the past, there were cases where the number of phones in a house exceeded the power
supplied by the phone company. While this has become very infrequent in recent years, it still
does happen, especially in rural areas. If you want to have a large number of phones (even single
line phones) and you are a significant distance from the wire center, design your system so you
can slip in a PBX, just in case.
Network
Use a minimum of Cat-5E. Anything lower is a waste of time and money. Cat-5E currently
supports 1000 Mb connections, giving you tons of bandwidth.
Consider 1-2 LAN drops to the patio/deck. This allows you to have a totally secure connection. It
also is much higher speed than a wireless connection.
The tap for the cable modem should be at the first location where the signal is divided. The same
is true if using DSL. This produces the maximum signal strength for the modem, with the
minimum interference.
A good quality Cat-5E installation will outperform a poor quality Cat-6 installation. Check out
lanshack.com for instructions for installing a UTP network.
Dont skimp on the network drops, especially in the office and media room/HT. IP is the wave of
the future, and you are better off with too many drops, than with too few.
Consider location that might need permanent connectivity (not wireless) in the future. For
instance, there are refrigerators with touch screens now. They require a network drop behind
them.
Security
Keypads
Run at least one Cat-5E to the areas where you will install security keypads. Many newer keypads
can use the extra conductors for additional features. It also makes you ready for touch screens or
video displays.
Run 18/4 (Fire Wire to the areas where you will install security keypads. This is a code
requirement in many areas.
Plan for keypads at the following locations
o Primary entrance door(s)
o Garage, or garage entrance
o Master Bedroom (if the alarm goes off in the middle of the night, you dont want to have
to run downstairs to see whats going on).
o At the alarm panel (mainly for initial programming and debugging).

Install shielded microphone cable to each keypad location to support listen in microphones.
Sensors
For CO detectors, run 22/4 security wire
o Every floor
o In the vicinity of every bedroom (a 1 to 1 ratio is not needed)
o Where you have large combustion sources, i.e. gas or oil furnaces and hot water heaters,
gas dryers, gas fireplaces.
For Gas detectors (LP or Natural), run 22/4 security wire wherever you have gas appliances
Run 22/4 security wire to every location where you want water detection. These are normally
areas prone to mechanical spills (washing machines, water heaters, dishwashers), or drainage
problems (basements, sump pumps, etc.)
Run 22/4 security wire to areas where glass breaks, noised detectors, and motion sensors are
needed.
Install 18/4 (Fire Wire for smoke detectors. You can home run each smoke, but most installers
setup smokes into logical zones, i.e. by floor (first, second, third), area (bedroom wing), etc. DO
NOT put all the detectors on a single zone (unless you have a very small house).
At minimum, you will need smoke detectors at the following locations
o Inside each bedroom
o Outside of each bedroom, within 10 ft. of the door
o One every floor of the building
Do not install smoke detectors in kitchens, bathrooms (or immediately next to a bathroom door),
garages, furnace rooms, or rooms connected directly to a garage.
THESE ARE A MINIMUM SET OF GUIDELINES AND MAY NOT REFLECT LEGAL REQUIREMENTS IN
YOUR JURISDICTION. CHECK WITH YOUR BUILDING INSPECTOR OR OTHER AHJ BEFORE
INSTALLATION!
Consider installing 18/4 (Fire Wire for future smoke detectors in every room even though code
does not require it. You may want to install additional units later for insurance reasons or
personal peace of mind. This also will help if you decide later to convert a room into a bedroom.
Install 18/4 (Fire Wire to location where you want heat detection
o Furnace rooms
o Attics
o Garages
o Kitchens
Contacts
Run a 22/2 security wire to the outside cable Network Interface Device (NID) for a tamper
contact. If someone opens the NID, then you will be aware of it.
Run a 22/2 security wire to the outside phone NID for a tamper contact. Again, it will alert you
when someone fools with the NID
If possible, put the NID in the crawl space or basement. For the crawl space, make sure to alarm
the entrance to the crawl space. Doing this protects the NID from tampering, but check with
phone company first. Some companies will not allow you to do this.
Run 22/2 security wire to each door for door contacts.
Run 22/2 security wire for window contacts. There are two schools of thought on window
contacts
o Run a wire for each individual window. This makes problem isolation very easy, and
increases the level of detail available, but it also requires lots of wire and greatly
increases installation time.
o Run a wire for each logical group of windows, usually a room. This requires much less
time and wire, but makes problem isolation more difficult. Level of detail is still
acceptable (do you need to know that the second window from the left is open in the
kids bedroom, or just that a window in the kids bedroom is open?)
If you want to be able to open a window a few inches for ventilation and still turn the alarm on,
you will need to wire a second set of contacts in parallel on the windows you want to open. In
short, one contact will be secure when the window is closed, while the other will be secure
when the window is in the partially open position.
Consider areas that you might want to alarm or monitor, and run 22/2 security wire to them.
o Gun safes
o Coin collections
o Attics
o Wine cellars
o Etc.
Cameras
Run Coax (RG6 or RG59) and 18/2 power to camera locations. You should also run Cat-5E. This
prepares you for all the possible camera combinations you could install in the near future.
Don't forget about the power requirements. It sometimes is easier to install an electrical outlet
somewhere near the camera location, than it is to carry power for a long distance.
For outside cameras at night, you might want to install infrared spotlights to aid in night visibility.
The spotlights will also require power.
Don't forget to wire for interior cameras for things like baby monitoring and nanny cams. There
are special cameras that fit into a single-gang box, or you can use surface mounted cameras.
When installing outside cameras, consider maintenance. The high mounted cameras give a
wonderful field of view, but are more difficult to maintain. Can you get to the camera easily if the
lens gets dirty, or a bird makes a nest on top of it (happens more frequently than you would
think)?
Other
Pre-wire for electric door strikes on outside doors even if you won't be using electric locks at
first.
Run 18/4 (Fire Wire to the siren location. The second pair can be used to monitor the siren, i.e.
broken wire will give a trouble indication.
If you want to use a card reader, or proximity detector, dont forget to wire for them.
HVAC
Run 4 conductor wires (or Cat-5E) from the wiring closet to each thermostat in case you want to
tie them to your automation system.
If you plan on automating any dampers or HVAC vents, make sure you run wire for that as well.
Many thermostats allow the use of remote sensors, concealed in the drywall. This allows the
thermostat to be mounted in an out of the way location. Since there is no thermostat seen, the
walls of the original room have a nice uncluttered look.
Conduit
Run conduit to outside areas where you might want to install a light fixture, fountain, etc. in the
future.
Run conduit from the wiring closet to the garage for future use.
Run conduit from the wiring closet to areas such as the attic, crawl space or basement. Make
sure this is code compliant.
Run conduit to any detached structures that you might want to run wire to in the future.
Run conduit alongside/under the driveway and walkway for future uses, such as mailbox
monitoring, gate controls, or automobile sensors.
Some conduit is directional. If installed incorrectly, even a pull rope might not help you. Always
install so the pull will be going male conduit connector to female conduit connector.
Code generally allows up to 360 degrees of curvature in a pull. Realistically, dont go over 180
degrees.
Go larger rather than smaller. Youll never kick yourself for putting in too large a conduit.
Touch screens
Run at least 1 Cat-5E for networking, and 1 Cat-5E for accessories (Serial/USB & VGA signal) to
each location
Whenever possible, try to create a small storage space behind the wall where the touch screen is
going. This makes it easier to install one in the future, and you can use the space for a small
computer, which will drive the touch screen (assuming it is PC based).
Don't forget to run power for the touch screen and PC if needed.
If a PC is being mounted behind the touch screen, dont ignore ventilation requirements.
Wiring Closet
Remember to install additional lighting and HVAC. Computers and amplifiers generate lots of
heat, so you will need some type of ventilation.
You can use thick plywood on the wall instead of drywall. If you do this, you can mount items to
it such as the Elk control box, 12-volt power distribution center, 12-volt source with battery,
shelving for stereo distribution equipment, etc.
Consider terminating field wiring on punch blocks or patch panels. The reason for this is NOT just
to make things neat and convenient. Over time you may change the equipment in your wiring
closet many times to incorporate new technology. Since field wiring is permanent, you do not
want it to experience excessive wear and tear. Punch blocks and patch panels take all the wear
and tear of hookup changes so the ends of the actual field wires don't have to.
Install multiple electrical circuits in the wiring closet.
o Dedicated circuit for PLC transmitters only (15 amp). Only put your master
transmitter/receiver here. If you want, you can hook all your wall-warts on this circuit
also, but they would be better on another circuit.
o Audio/video/etc (20-30 amps).
o All computers (20-30 amps). Isolating this branch is critical, as you probably will have at
least one UPS (or possibly more), and UPS are known for being signal suckers. B-A-A-D
for X-10.
Consider an ELK power distribution box for LV power. This option eliminates a lot of the wall
warts by providing a single source of LV power.
Wall wart control is a PITA, as they will chew up a gazillion receptacles. Either install a few plug-in
Wiremold power strips (~3 ft. with 8 receptacles), or a couple of the permanently mounted
Wiremold strips (1 receptacle/ft.)
Automation
This area consists of everything not covered elsewhere, and is the one that with some of the more
offbeat suggestions. Some suggestions dont have anything to do with wiring, but require thought
during the planning and wiring stages.
Run 1 Cat-5E wire to the garage door area. You will at least 1 pair for garage door monitoring, 1
pair for garage door control, allowing you to use the 2 remaining pair for future projects (such as
advanced door monitoring, or monitoring the beam sensors).
If you will have a water softener, run at 22/4 security wire or Cat-5E for salt level monitoring,
water softener activity monitoring, etc.
Run 22/4 security wire or Cat-5E to each furnace, so you can monitor filter changes, furnace run
time, etc.
Run 22/4 security wire or Cat-5E to the laundry for appliance monitoring.
Run 22/4 security wire or Cat-5E, and 18/2 zip cord, to each window where you might like
automatic drapes/blinds someday. The zip cord will be for power, and the other cable for control
(i.e. IR). The IR can be placed inside the window controls, or a blaster can be placed elsewhere in
the room, facing the windows.
Run 22/4 security wire or Cat-5E to your mailbox, so you can monitor when the mail arrives. Use
either conduit or bugger cable.
If you think of having a weather station someday, then try to install the wiring & sensors while
you have the chance. Keep in mind that a lightning detector requires special wiring to work
properly.
Consider using floor pressure sensors to detect occupancy in rooms. These will also work great
when mounted under the stairs, so make sure you plan your wiring accordingly. A run of 22/4
security wire to each sensor location should do the job.
Wire for microphones in each room in case you want to use voice recognition someday.
If you plan on using driveway sensors in the future, try to plan this as well. Install conduit now.
Consider installing wiring (22/4 security wire or Cat-5E) in locations where you might want to
install an IR blaster. The ceiling would be the best choice since an IR blaster requires direct line of
sight to the equipment.
Run wiring for IR emitters to your entertainment center area. It can be run over a pair of a spare
Cat-5E drop or 22/4 security wire.
If you want to monitor IR commands, you will need 3 wires per IR receiver.
You might want to run one or two extra Cat-5E drops to your entertainment center, in case your
equipment supports control through a serial port.
Don't forget to run some extra wire for 'power on' sensors, such as the CR Magnetics current
sensors.
Run Cat-5E to locations where you might want to install separate temperature/humidity sensors.
Plan your home automation voice announcements. Will you be using your whole-house audio
system for this, or will you be using your PBX, intercom, dedicated speakers, etc.?
RFID is here to stay and will probably become a very popular tool in the future. If you plan on
installing RFID receivers such as the iAutomate.com ones, make sure you plan your wiring
accordingly. Check with manufacture for more details on the required wiring.
If you want an intercom system, make sure you don't forget to run the wiring for it. If you don't
know which system you are going with, run at least 1 Cat-5E.
Use nail guards! Nail guards are metal plates that are attached to studs before the drywall goes
up. They are used to protect wires (high & low voltage) as well as PVC pipes.
If you have a larger house, or a long distance between the hot water heater and you bathroom,
consider a hot water recirculation loop, along with a high-speed pump.
Run 120v, two Cat-5E, and (RG6QS to locations in the back yard where you might have a future
shed. If you have multiple (RG6QS, you can use one of the extras for a camera facing back at the
house.
Run (RG6QS to the attic for a GPS Antenna, and/or X-10 RF
Pre-tube for a whole house vacuum.
(TTS has several different options, and requires pre-planning.
o Use the whole house music system for (TTS.
o Use a PBX/speaker phones for (TTS.
o Install a dedicated set of speakers for (TTS
A Cat-5E run to the power meter for an IR sensor that counts revolutions of the disk inside, and
thus estimate the electrical usage.
If you plan on installing an automatic sprinkler system. There is special 7-conductor wire for
sprinkler systems that is UV resistant and ready for direct burial. Each valve requires one
conductor, plus a common ground wire, so a 7-conductor wire will support 6 valves.
Consider a One-Wire network. One-wire is a low voltage (and low price) system of sensors that
has many uses, and integrates with several automation and weather packages. Cat-5E works
nicely for One-wire networks. Some of the current sensor available are;
o Temperature
o Humidity
o ID card
o Weather
Wind speed
Wind direction
Rainfall
Solar radiation
Lightning detection
o Water
o LED displays
"Future-proof your home" edition
In this last part, we take a quick trip through the house, room by room. For each room well reiterate the
possible wires to install, and what they would do. Obviously, not all rooms will be in your house, and you
will not need every wire we mention. Often, making one installation choice eliminates other choices.
However, dont put curbs on your imagination. Its a lot easier (and cheaper) to run wires now, than it is
after construction is finished.
Suggested Wires per room
Contents
[hide]
1 Master bedroom
2 Kids and guest bedrooms
3 Nursery
4 Master bath
5 Secondary baths
6 Attic/Roof
7 Kitchen
8 Dining room
9 Pantry
10 Laundry
11 Breakfast nook
12 Living room/Family room/Great room/Recreation room
13 Media room
14 Office
15 Foyer
16 Mudroom
17 Hallways
18 Sauna
19 Basement
20 Utility room
21 HVAC room
22 Storage
23 Home Theater
24 Hobby room
25 Shop
26 Garage
27 Deck/patio
28 Lawn
29 Driveway
30 Wiring closet
Master bedroom
Security keypad Cat-5E, Firewire
Touch screen Cat-5E, electrical power
Speakers, whole house sound Speaker wire 16/4 or 14/4 or 18/2, depending on music system and
configuration
Microphone Shielded microphone cable
IR Cat-5E or Station Wire
Video RG6QS, multiple drops
Telephone Cat-5E, multiple drops
Network Cat-5E, multiple drops
Motion detector Station Wire
Smoke detector - Firewire
CO Detector Station Wire or Firewire
Window contacts Station Wire
Kids and guest bedrooms
configuration

Nursery
configuration
Microphone Shielded microphone wire
Camera for baby monitoring - RG59 or Cat-5E
Smoke detector Firewire
CO Detector Firewire or Station Wire
You might want to turn the nursery into bedroom in the future, so also run;
Master bath
configuration
Microphone Shielded microphone wire

Video RG6QS
Telephone Cat-5E
Humidity sensor Cat-5E
Thermostat for in-floor radiant heat Cat-5E
Secondary baths
configuration
Video RG6QS
Telephone Cat-5E
Network Cat-5E
Thermostat for in-floor radiant heat Cat-5E

Attic/Roof
Temperature sensor Cat-5E
Satellite RG6QS, 4 drops per dish
Satellite Internet RG6QS, 2 drops
OTA antenna RG6QS
Heat detector - Firewire
Kitchen
configuration
Video RG6QS
Telephone Cat-5E
Network Cat-5E
LP or Natural Gas Detector Station Wire or Firewire
Bar code reader -
Dining room
Often doubles as a play room/study room/etc. so dont skip the drops because youll never use a
computer in the dining room.
configuration
Pantry
Telephone Cat-5E
Network Cat-5E
Bar code reader -
Laundry
configuration
Telephone Cat-5E
Water sensor Station Wire
Washing machine done sensor Cat-5E or Station Wire
Dryer done sensor Cat-5E or Station Wire
Breakfast nook
configuration
Video RG6QS
Telephone Cat-5E
Network Cat-5E
Living room/Family room/Great room/Recreation room

configuration
Media room
Speakers, local or whole house sound Speaker wire 16/4 or 14/4 or 18/2, depending on music
system and configuration
Video RG6QS, multiple drops, at least 4 wires pre drop
Video 2 Cat-5E drops, for DVI/HDMI adapters
Office
configuration
Network Cat-5E, multiple drops, at least 2 wires per drop
Foyer
configuration
Telephone Cat-5E
Window/door contacts Station Wire
Mudroom

configuration
Video RG6QS
Telephone Cat-5E
Hallways
configuration
Telephone Cat-5E
Sauna
configuration
Video RG6QS
Telephone Cat-5E
Door contact Station Wire
Water detector Station Wire
Basement
configuration
Video RG6QS
Telephone Cat-5E
Network Cat-5E
Utility room
Telephone Cat-5E
HVAC room
Telephone Cat-5E
Storage
Telephone Cat-5E
Network Cat-5E

Home Theater
configuration
Speakers, Home Theatre 14/2 or 12/2
Microphone Shielded mike cable
Video input (from wiring closet) RG6QS, multiple drops
Video (internal to HT) mini coax
Hobby room
configuration

Shop
configuration
Video RG6QS
Telephone Cat-5E
Network Cat-5E
Garage
configuration
Video RG6QS
Telephone Cat-5E
Network Cat-5E

Heat detectors Firewire
Garage door level sensor Station Wire or Cat-5E
Deck/patio
configuration
Video RG6QS
Telephone Cat-5E
Network Cat-5E
Lawn
Speakers, whole house sound Speaker wire Direct burial Speaker wire 16/4 or 14/4, depending on
distance from amplifier
Bird bath water detector Station Wire or Cat-5E
Rain detector Station Wire or Cat-5E
Automated lawn sprinklers Sprinkler wire
Weather station varies by manufacturer
Driveway
Video RG6QS
Door phone Cat-5E
Gate controller varies
Automobile sensor varies by manufacturer
Wiring closet
If its listed anywhere above, then it ends up here!

Wiring Your New House 101

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Wiring Your New House 101

"Future-proof your home" edition

6 A Word about Wire

8 A Word about Wireless

o Electric, 120/220 volts

o Cat-5E (may be separated into phone/network/other)

o Low voltage (yard lights, camera power, drapes, etc.)

A sample spreadsheet showing this information can be downloaded from HERE.

A blank template of the same file can be downloaded from HERE.

Its better to have excess quantities than it is to be short.

o One Coax, minimum of RG6

o Two pair of UTP cable, minimum of Cat-5 or higher

o Two Coax, minimum of RG6

A Word about Wire

Security wire AKA Station Wire

Bundled Cable AKA Composite Cable

A Word about Wireless

Wiring Your New House 102

o 1.1 General HA/HT Electrical Tips

o 1.2 Tips for Systems using PLC Communications

o 1.3 Interesting Electrical Options

o 2.1 Tips for Whole House Audio Systems

o 2.2 Tips for Home Theater Audio

o 2.3 Tips for Music Outside

o 3.2 OTA/HD Video Tips

o 3.3 Satellite Dish Tips

o 3.4 Cable TV Tips

o 3.5 Video Distribution

o 3.6 Video Modulators

o 3.7 Home Theatre video

o 4.1 General Phone Tips

o 4.2 Hardware PBX

o 4.3 Software PBX

Locations where you plan to have extensive holiday decorations.

Tips for Systems using PLC Communications

Interesting Electrical Options

o Lighting for picture frames or artwork

o Lighting for cabinets holding collectables

Under cabinet lighting

Above cabinet lighting

Do you want a fan over the kitchen table?

Lights on/under the railing

Task lighting over the grill

Do you want a ceiling fan?

Up lighting in a tray ceiling

Task lighting around the mirror

o In the living/great room

An outlet near the fireplace mantle for decorations or lights

Spotlights on the mantle

Run Cat-5E to every keypad location

Central Amplifier types

Distributed Amplifier types

o Only Cat-5E needed between main unit and keypad

o Does not require a large gauge wire. 18/2 is sufficient

Tips for Home Theater Audio

Use a good quality 14 (or 12) gauge speaker wire

Current speaker configurations

Left front and right front

Left surround and right surround

Left front and right front

Left surround and right surround

Left front and right front

Left surround and right surround

Left rear surround and right rear surround