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Chocolate-Tempering

Equipment and Techniques


The advantages and disadvantages of the four major styles of
tempering equipment.
Joe Sofia
Cargill Cocoa & Chocolate

important. We need roughly 2 to 4 percent


T here are various types of equipment
and techniques used for tempering of the cocoa butter crystallized while the
other 96 to 98 percent remains in the liquid
chocolate. Advantages and disadvantages
of the four major styles of tempering equip- phase. These crystals must be well distrib-
ment, used for both large-scale and small- uted throughout the liquid chocolate.
scale confectionery applications, are dis- To produce the right number and size of
cussed here. Tempering equipment design stable Form V crystals, agitation is one
must take into account three important vari- important variable. As a result, some means
of mixing or agitation must be part of any Joe Sofia is Cargill
ables crucial to the tempering process
Cocoa & Chocolates
agitation, temperature and time. In order tempering machine. We teach budding chocolate specialist
to choose the appropriate tempering chocolatiers to temper with a very simple and an instructor for
machine, users must have a basic under- method: stirring chocolate chunks into a Cargills Chocolatiers
Workshop. He worked
standing of tempering and how these vari- bowl of untempered chocolate with a spat-
for Nestl USA and
ables affect the process. Criteria for evalu- ula. The best results are achieved by the stu- Peters Chocolate prior
ating tempering equipment include ease of dents who diligently scrape the bowl and to his current role.
changeover and cleanout, production capac- keep the chunks moving throughout the liq-
ity and operational complexity. uid chocolate. Another factor related to agi-
tation is shear. In a tempering machine,
DEFINITION OF TEMPERING shear takes place where there is scraping
Temper can be defined as the induced par- against the cooling surface. More shearing
tial pre-crystallization of cocoa butter. will help create more crystals, while excess
However, it is not just any cocoa butter crys- shearing creates too many. Mae West said
tal we seek; for optimal final results the sta- too much of a good thing can be wonder-
ble Form V crystal, also known as crystal, ful, but in the case of tempering, too many
is the goal. In addition to quality cocoa but- crystals can create problems down the line.
ter crystals, the correct quantity is also Over time, the small, newly formed cocoa

The Manufacturing Confectioner December 2013 73


Chocolate-Tempering Equipment and Techniques

By choosing the butter crystals will grow larger and more one hand and a flat metal spatula in the
appropriate resistant to melting or, in other words, they other. When the milk chocolate became a
temperatures mature. This makes time another meaning- thick mush at approximately 78F, I quickly
throughout the ful variable of tempering. The crystal trans- removed it from the chilled table and trans-
tempering process, formations of cocoa butter do not happen ferred it into a bowl, and added enough
we can induce instantaneously they also take time. warm chocolate to bring it up to 84 to
crystal formation, Temperature is perhaps the most critical 85F. Through trial and error, I learned that
maintain a variable of tempering. By choosing the letting the mush get too cold on the table
constant crystal appropriate temperatures throughout the would result in a solidified mass that I
population or melt tempering process, we can induce crystal could not work with. Once I perfected that
away undesirable formation, maintain a constant crystal pop- part of the process, I also learned that
crystals. ulation or melt away undesirable crystals. adding too much warm chocolate to the
Quite simply, a tempering machine is a heat mush would bring the temperature up
exchanger. The temperature control must higher than 85F, which resulted in poorly
be precise, and the temperature readings tempered chocolate. Over time, I found
must be accurate in tempering equipment. that I achieved better results and finished
Tempered chocolate, therefore, can be faster when I cleanly and swiftly scraped
defined as approximately 3 percent Form V the table and mixed the chocolate. With
cocoa butter crystals that are well distrib- enough practice I was able to consistently
uted in liquid chocolate, held at the correct duplicate the procedure and temper choco-
temperature and appropriately mixed to late whenever it was required. But I did
maintain the desired quantity of crystals. not understand the principles of tempering:
the difference between stable and unstable
CRYSTAL FORMATION cocoa butter crystals, the importance of
There are many ways to temper chocolate agitation and shearing, and the distinction
and many different types of equipment to between undertempered versus overtem-
achieve this goal. However, all of these pered chocolate.
options can be divided into two groups: As it turns out, the mush method is a fast
those that internally create the Form V and efficient way to temper a small batch of
cocoa butter crystals, referred to as the chocolate. It is also one of the techniques
mush method, and those that rely on an that creates the Form V crystals.
external source of Form V cocoa butter Tempering techniques and machines that
crystals, referred to as the seed method. create the Form V cocoa butter crystals have
Most tempering equipment is designed to to utilize temperatures cold enough to grow
operate by one means or the other, but the unstable crystal forms first, which then
some can be used both ways. transform into the stable Form V crystals.
A warming step to a temperature above the
Mush Method melting point of these unstable crystals fin-
I can still remember the first time I was ishes the job. That is, the remaining unstable
taught to temper chocolate, using the mush crystals either melt out or transform to
method of cooling untempered chocolate Form V. It is this approach, organically cre-
on a chilled, stainless steel table. I was ating the Form V crystals, that most stacked
instructed to manipulate the chocolate plate-type and scraped-surface, screw-type
around the table with a metal scraper in tempering machines use.

74 December 2013 The Manufacturing Confectioner


Chocolate-Tempering Equipment and Techniques

One advantage to this approach is less ferred to the untempered liquid chocolate, The second group
likelihood of creating overtempered choco- resulting in our desired endpoint. Scraped- of tempering
late. Overtempered chocolate can become surface, rotating bowl-type tempering techniques and
extremely viscous, creating potential prob- machines utilize this approach. Some older- equipment relies on
lems including difficulty pumping the style enrobers were designed to be oper- an external source
chocolate, heavy weight of enrobed fin- ated using powdered chocolate for seed to of Form V cocoa
ished pieces and air bubbles in moulded start the tempering process within the butter crystals. We
pieces. This method is less likely to enrobing tank. Also, this seed-tempering typically refer to
overtemper chocolate because there is typ- approach can be applied to tempering these sources as
ically not a long residence time. As Beck- chocolate in a bulk tank. Excellent, repeat-
ett notes, When they are newly formed seed.
able results are achieved when the correct
the crystals are small and easily melted.
quantity and quality of seed is used.
Over a long residence time these stable
crystals will grow, become more stable and
SCRAPED-SURFACE, ROTATING BOWL-
have a higher melting point, especially if TYPE TEMPERING MACHINESXXXXXX
the temperature remains constant. Choco-
Scraped-surface, rotating bowl-type tem-
late viscosity increases when chocolate is
pering machines are characterized by a
tempered. As a general rule the viscosity
rotating bowl that is divided by a baffle. A
increases by a factor of two from the
temperature control system either turns
incoming chocolate to that leaving the tem-
on a cooling fan or a heater to achieve the
perer. This factor will be higher when the
chocolate is overtempered. desired chocolate temperature. A temper-
ature probe immersed in the chocolate
Seed Method near the bottom of the bowl measures the
The second group of tempering techniques chocolate temperature. The rotating bowl
and equipment relies on an external source provides gentle and effective mixing and
of Form V cocoa butter crystals. These agitation of the chocolate. The heat
sources can include large chunks of choco- exchange occurs through the surface of the
late, small chocolate wafers or chunks, bowl. Chocolate seed, usually in the form
powdered chocolate or powdered cocoa of large chocolate chunks or wafers, is
butter. We typically refer to these sources placed behind the baffle. With the bowl
as seed. These sources must be well tem- rotating clockwise, scrapers installed on
pered and show no signs of temperature the baffle at the 9 oclock position scrape
abuse or bloom. The tempering process I against the bowl, providing cleaning and
mentioned earlier, stirring chocolate shearing action, and help incorporate the
chunks into a bowl of untempered choco- Form V crystals back into the chocolate.
late with a spatula, is an example of this Examples of this type of machine are
approach. With this method, a target choco- shown in Figures 1 and 2.
late temperature of 88F is suitable for Manufacturers of this style machine
tempering milk chocolate, and 1 to 2F offer various sizes with tempering capaci-
higher for dark or bittersweet chocolate. ties up to approximately 600 pounds per
This is well above the formation tempera- day, suitable for smaller-scale applications.
ture of crystal forms I to IV, so these are These machines are designed for very easy
not formed in significant quantity. The cleaning and changeover from one type of
Form V crystals from the seed are trans- chocolate to another. If an allergen or

The Manufacturing Confectioner December 2013 75


Chocolate-Tempering Equipment and Techniques

A higher other thorough cleanout is required, these Feeding tempered chocolate from another
continuous capacity are uncomplicated to disassemble and source to match the rate of chocolate being
can be achieved by clean thoroughly. used by the enrober is yet another option
slowly feeding in It is recommended that the smaller-sized that can increase capacity.
untempered liquid machines of this style are operated as batch These machines are best operated in a
machines. Once the chocolate in front of room temperature range of 65 to 75F.
chocolate that is
the baffle is well tempered, the remaining Since these machines cool using the air
very close in
solid chocolate seed is removed from from the room, air temperatures warmer
temperature to the
behind the baffle. The tempered chocolate than 75F will not properly cool the choco-
well-tempered
is used until the machine is nearly empty. late. And in rooms cooler than 65F, tem-
chocolate in the The larger sizes are typically run con- pered chocolate will quickly solidify on the
machine. tinuously when an enrober is mounted surfaces of the machine, increasing the pos-
onto them. Chocolate can be fed to the sibility for overtempered chocolate. Also,
machine by keeping the area behind the these machines are best operated at or
baffle full of solid chocolate. A higher con- near full capacity. As the chocolate level
tinuous capacity can be achieved by slowly empties, the temperature control is less
feeding in untempered liquid chocolate dependable because more temperature
that is very close in temperature to the fluctuation can occur.
well-tempered chocolate in the machine.
CONTINUOUS SCREW-TYPE
TEMPERING MACHINEXXXX
Scraped-Surface Tabletop Machine
This style of tempering machine commonly
used in confectionery production utilizes a
screw or worm to continuously move
chocolate through a tube-shaped heat
exchanger. A refrigerated liquid cools the
inner surface of the tube. The heat
exchanger has different temperature zones,
because this type of machine uses the mush
Continuous Screw-Type Approximately 30 pounds of holding capacity. method of tempering. The chocolate must
Temperer be cooled enough to begin crystal forma-
Figure 1 2013 Cargill
tion, which by nature starts with unstable
Scraped-Surface Tempering Machine cocoa butter crystals. Further along the
heat exchanger, the chocolate is warmed
enough to melt the unstable crystals and
allow the Form V crystals to remain. Sim-
ply stated, warm, untempered chocolate
goes in one end of the heat exchanger and
tempered chocolate emerges from the exit.
Figure 3 shows a style of machine that
has continuous capacities ranging from 120
to 440 pounds per hour. The stirred basin
Continuous capacity of 200 maintains a pool of untempered chocolate.
pounds per hour. Capacity of 600 pounds per day. The chocolate is pumped upward through
Figure 3 2013 Cargill Figure 2 2013 Cargill a screwpump and is tempered as it moves

76 December 2013 The Manufacturing Confectioner


Chocolate-Tempering Equipment and Techniques

vertically through the different tempera- This unit contains a heated, stirred choco- One caution that
ture zones. The action of the screwpump late hopper that feeds the multi-tempera- must be taken with
scrapes the chocolate against the cooled ture-zoned heat exchanger. The machine all continuous
metal outer tube and mixes it together. The works in a similar manner to the one in screw-type
chocolate that comes out of the top spout Figure 3, except the worm screw is hori- tempering
is tempered and ready for use. The choco- zontal and much larger in diameter. The machines is to
late that is not used falls back into the basin various temperature zones are set accord- avoid cooling-fluid
where it is reheated and detempered, ingly to achieve the proper chocolate tem- temperatures that
readying it for another trip back through peratures along the heat exchanger to cool are too cold and
the heat exchanger. During continuous the chocolate, form cocoa butter crystals freeze up chocolate
operation, chocolate must be added to the and melt excess and unstable cocoa but-
basin to replace the chocolate being used
onto the inside
ter crystals. The action of the worm screw cooling surfaces.
for moulding or enrobing. This particular
scrapes the chocolate against the cooled
style of machine contains a foot pedal that
heat exchange surface, and also mixes it
will temporarily stop the flow of tempered
back into the chocolate within the worm
chocolate to allow a mould to be inserted
tracks. This type of tempering machine will
under the chocolate flow. Traditionally,
accommodate inclusions such as nuts, dried
these machines were not convenient to dis-
fruits or cereals mixed into the chocolate
assemble for an allergen or other thorough
being tempered.
cleanout. The chocolate manufacturer
One caution that must be taken with all
would have one of each machine for each
distinct allergen or chocolate type. How- continuous screw-type tempering machines
ever, more modern versions of these is to avoid cooling-fluid temperatures that
machines are designed to be more easily are too cold and freeze up chocolate onto
cleaned. The screwpump is easily remov- the inside cooling surfaces.
able and a thorough cleanout can occur.
Figures 4 and 5 show the outside and STACKED-PLATE HEAT EXCHANGERS
inside of a large-capacity, continuous screw- Another very popular style of machine for
type tempering machine. This style of continuous tempering is the design that uses
machine allows for high capacities, rang- stacked heat exchange plates. Cooling or
ing from 1,100 to 5,500 pounds per hour. heating liquid is pumped through the inte-

Large-Capacity, Continuous Screw- Large-Capacity, Continuous Screw-


Type Temperer Outside Type Temperer Inside

Figure 4 2013 Cargill Figure 5 2013 Cargill


The Manufacturing Confectioner December 2013 77


Chocolate-Tempering Equipment and Techniques

A temperature- rior of these hollow plates for heat machines typically have a pressure relief
controlled agitated exchange. Multiple plates are stacked one switch which stops the chocolate pump and
tank can be used to on top of the other, and the chambers cre- changes the machine to quick heating. This
temper chocolate. ated between the plates become the heat prevents damage to the internals of the
Typically, this is exchange surfaces that the chocolate flows tempering unit due to excess pressure. Fig-
done in a vertical through. These areas are mixed and scraped ure 6 shows an example of this type of tem-
tank with a hollow to provide efficient shear and heat exchange. pering machine, and Figure 7 shows a
jacket surrounding More plates on the stack create a higher- schematic of the stacked plates.
the full tank capacity tempering machine. The plates are Stacked-plate tempering units are not
circumference. grouped into temperature control zones, readily disassembled for cleaning. Change-
each with an individual temperature con- over to a different type of chocolate is usu-
trol system for the cooling and heating fluid. ally accomplished by a purge, and some
As with the screw-type temperers, this style mixed chocolate rework is created during
uses the mush method of tempering. Most the changeover. This design of tempering
of the crystal growth takes place in the cold- unit does not lend itself to an allergen or
est zone, and the next zone provides reheat other thorough cleanout, so typically sep-
to melt the unstable crystals. Chocolate is arate machines are used for allergen and
pumped from the bottom to the top of the nonallergen applications.
plate stack.
This is a very efficient design for con- BULK TANK
tinuously tempering chocolate, with a wide A temperature-controlled agitated tank
variety of capacities available up to can be used to temper chocolate. Typically,
40,000 pounds per hour. Similar to the con- this is done in a vertical tank with a hol-
tinuous screw type, the cooling-liquid tem- low jacket surrounding the full tank cir-
perature must be well controlled for pre- cumference. Heating and/or cooling liquid
cise chocolate temperature control. If the circulating through the jacket provides the
cooling liquid becomes too cold and the necessary heat transfer for tempering. The
chocolate in the unit freezes up, these tank must be agitated to keep the choco-
late temperature consistent throughout the
Stacked-Plate Tempering Unit Stacked-Plate Temperer tank, as well as evenly distributing the
Schematic cocoa butter crystals once the chocolate is
tempered. Both a seed-tempering and a
mush method approach can be taken to
temper in a tank.
Using the seed method, a tank full of
melted milk chocolate held at approxi-
mately 100 to 110F can be tempered by
one of the following procedures:

Add 10lb blocks of well-tempered choco-


late into the tank and turn on the agita-
tor. If possible, place the blocks directly
against the agitator arm so the rotation
Figure 6 2013 Cargill Figure 7 2013 Cargill moves the blocks around the tank. Be

78 December 2013 The Manufacturing Confectioner


Chocolate-Tempering Equipment and Techniques

sure to add enough chocolate blocks so the mush method will require tempera- The cooling-liquid
that when the temperature reaches 88 tures cold enough to develop crystals on temperature must
to 90F, some chunks remain. Water the inside wall of the tank, the agitator be cold enough to
jacket cooling can be applied here to
speed up the cooling process. Once the
must scrape the surface of the tank to shear form the unstable
chocolate temperature falls below off the crystals as they form and mix them cocoa butter
approximately 93 to 95F, some of the back into the tank. The inside wall of the crystals inside the
Form V crystals from the seed chocolate tank is not only the heat exchange surface, tank wall, but not
remain unmelted in the liquid chocolate, but also the nucleation site where the crys- so cold that
and as the chocolate continues to cool
tals are created. Figure 9 shows the scrap- excessive solidified
the population of Form V crystals grows.
Somewhere in the range 88 to 90F, the ers inside the tank wall. chocolate develops
chocolate in the tank will be well tem- This type of equipment can be pro- in the tank.
pered, and the remaining blocks should grammed to cool and then subsequently
be removed to avoid overtempering. warm the chocolate to the appropriate
Cool the milk chocolate to the range of temperatures to achieve temper. When
91 to 93F using the water jacket cool- cooling, there are two important tem-
ing. Add 3 percent by weight powdered, peratures: the temperature of the choco-
well-tempered chocolate or 1 percent late and the temperature of the cooling
by weight powdered, well-tempered
liquid in the tank jacket. The cooling-liq-
cocoa butter to the chocolate tank.
uid temperature must be cold enough to
Allow the tank to mix, distribute and
incorporate the powdered seed through- form the unstable cocoa butter crystals
out the tank. Allow 15 to 20 minutes for inside the tank wall, but not so cold that
the seed to melt and mature in the liquid excessive solidified chocolate develops
chocolate. in the tank. Cooling liquid should be in
Once the milk chocolate is tempered, use the range of 55 to 65F. The appropriate
the water jacket system to maintain 89 to cooling time and chocolate target tem-
91F to keep the chocolate in perfect tem- perature will be determined by the choco-
late recipe and the size of the tank. The
per. The specific formulation of your
larger the tank is, the lower the ratio of
chocolate will determine your exact tar-
cooling surface area to chocolate volume
get temperature. The more milk fat (or
will be, reducing the rate of heat trans-
other vegetable fats) mixed in with the
cocoa butter in your formulation, the lower
your target temperature must be. If your Temperature-Controlled Scrapers Inside the Tank Wall
Agitated Bulk Tank
chocolate becomes too warm, the Form V
crystals will melt out and the chocolate will
be undertempered and eventually untem-
pered. If the chocolate is held too cool, it
will become overtempered and too viscous.
I like to refer to the correct temperature as
the temper equilibrium temperature.
A bulk tank can also temper chocolate
using the mush method. Figure 8 shows an
example of a temperature-controlled agi-
tated tank designed for this purpose. Since Figure 8 2013 Cargill Figure 9 2013 Cargill

The Manufacturing Confectioner December 2013 79


Chocolate-Tempering Equipment and Techniques

Once the principles fer in and out of the chocolate. A target SUMMARY
of tempering are cooling temperature for milk chocolate Tempering machines are used in different
understood, and is 80 to 82F. types of operations such as chocolate man-
the operational After enough crystal formation has ufacturing, confectionery production and
needs are defined, occurred, and to avoid too much crystal snack food manufacturing. There are many
the selection of the formation, warm liquid is run through the ways to temper chocolate but, drilling
type of tempering tank jacket. The chocolate is reheated to down to the basics, they can be grouped
machine is made 85 to 87F to melt away the unstable crys- into the mush and seed methods. Two pop-
easier. tals and ensure transformation to stable ular styles of continuous tempering
Form V crystals. As previously discussed, machines, the screw type and stacked-plate
the Form V crystals will mature and grow type, utilize the mush method of tempering.
in the tank over time. If the tempered These machines are the workhorses of
chocolate in the tank will be used over the high-capacity continuous tempering in our
course of a full production day, the milk industry. Scraped-surface, rotating-bowl
chocolate temperature must be eventually tempering machines use the seed method
warmed to 89 to 91F to keep the choco- of tempering, and are very popular for
late in perfect temper. Same as with the small- to medium-capacity applications.
seed method, the exact target temperature Both the mush and seed methods can be
depends on the formulation of chocolate. applied to bulk tank tempering. Once the
Dark and bittersweet chocolates have a principles of tempering are understood,
temper equilibrium temperature that is and the operational needs are defined, the
one or two degrees Fahrenheit higher. selection of the type of tempering machine
In this way, confectioners can use a choco- is made easier. n
late-melting tank for tempering, perhaps
for a seasonal product requiring more tem- REFERENCES
pered chocolate than their existing contin- Beckett, S.T. Industrial Chocolate Manufacture
uous machine can produce. Tempered And Use. Pg 156, pg 174. New York: Van Nos-
trand Reinhold, 1988.
chocolate can be stored at the equilibrium
Beckett S.T. The Science of Chocolate, Royal
temperature, ready for use. However, the Society of Chemistry, 2nd Edition. Pg 107,
temperature control system for the tank 2008.
must be capable of maintaining this tem-
perature within a close range. An advan-
tage of the bulk tank method is the ease of
changeover and allergen cleanout. Also,
chocolate with inclusions can be tempered
in this manner. A disadvantage is the limited
amount of chocolate that can be tempered
at a time (the volume of your tank), which
will limit the daily production. The produc-
tion rate can be increased by slowly feeding
untempered chocolate into the tank of tem-
pered chocolate while it is being used. Presented at the AACT National Technical Conference

80 December 2013 The Manufacturing Confectioner

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