(*.

>r * , CUI PRKISE CURVES

~ ~ THIS
T SHW-
H E

Sabre Saw Table

Blade Storage Cabinet rn Tips for Buylng Lumber
Random-Orbit Sanders Turned Shop Mallets I
 PUBUSHER Donald B. Peschke
E D ~ D R Richard S. Petera
Cutoffs
ASSOCUTE m m ~ 5Tim Robertson
PhilTatten
mrmnnEnon Gary Christensen
OENIMI I W R a T D R SChdtz
A sk any woodworker about a pro-
ject he has just completed and the
first thing he'll mentionis how he didn't
So the first version Kent built had a
sliding index pin built into the top.
BENT BLADE. The only problem was
ruuaarroao Roger Reiland follow the plans. Sure, the basic design it didntwork. The blade had a ten-
Mark Hjgdon is the same. But there's always that dency to bend during a cut. And this
cnmnyE RESOURCES natural tendency to change something was exaggerated when the workpiece
- to put your own stamp on the pro- was rotated to cut a circle. Although the
BUIGM DI~LSTOR Ken Munkel
jects that you build. resulting wheel was nice and round, the
~EU~ORDEEIONER Kent Wekh Maybe the dimensions are slightly edges were beveled.
OMOPMINI~ER Steve Curtis different. Or you decided to use a differ- It was obvious we needed something
i ~ o ~ o ~ l mSteve ~ r n Johnson
PI(OTOC-ER Cravola Eneland ent wood, joint, or profile on an edge. to hold the blade straight. Kent men-
There's nothing wrong tioned he had an idea.
with personalizing a So I was intrigued
~,WHIC LRIIOT Cheryl L. Cynor project. Just be aware when he asked me to
that a little change come down to the shop
CIWUTION
Subscflpt&~Mys.! Sandy Bawn, Troy Dowell, hereor there can often a couple days later.
Paige Rogers -Assistant Subsrriptih My$.: have a dramatic im- SUPPORT.Gone was
Shaoe S. h e i s , Julie Greenlee .Newsstand p a d somewhere else. the sliding index idea.
Ma7~ager:KentA Buditon
TESTTHE IDEA The In its place was a
COlWUTEIUIYIEE6
Plen.DireetollJonMsc&~C01~~11~~:Robin
best way I've found to unique overarm sup-
prevent a surprise port. One end of the
.
Hutebinson-Seniar Acdd:Lam Thomas= B*:
Holly Lucas Ploduch'01~Dir: George ChmieI81~ like this from happen-
.Pmd.My.:Cmlguiiano.Pm~Dme1opment
.
Joyce Moore. Net Adm.: NickTbielen Urnin.
Assists.: Cheryl Scott,Julia Fish Re@mnisb
ing later is to test the
idea up front. Depending on the change, the blade rigid, while still allowing it to
Jeanne J o h n . Building Mavzt: Ken G f i t h
I may build a small-scale model. Other move up and down, see photo.
MU& DRDER times I'll make a prototype, or just After some testing, we noticed the
Opmh Di~edor:Bob Baker .Art Directo?:
Cindy Jackson. MateriokMgr: MsrkMattd mock up a joint or an edge. workpiece had a tendency to skitter
-CwtomsrSaruiceMgr: Jennie Ems- Wawhzx6e Building prototypes and mock-ups around during a cut. At the same time,
Supvisor: N,mcyJohnson- Butw: Lhda Jones isn't anything new. All designers learn we weren't comfortable with the blade

.
&aria .
.Svsten OpmtmTammy Aldini-Zk~Leadsr:
Cranin Technical Support. David Stone
Customer Servios Reps.: Xennifer Murphy,
the value of these early on. They know
they're agreat way to tryout newideas
being exposed. Kent's solution took
care of both problems. (For more on
-
Joy Krause, Sara Konot A m Cox, Adam Best,
Kristi Andrews Warahmu* Gloria S m h q
Chuek-Carh.SvluiaCarey.Lm&
while working out any possible bugs.
The design staff here at ShopNotes is
this, see the article on page 16.)
NEW IDEAS. But even though our de-
ShupYotrcz %:i r..,cn~.~u\%hhrdl .r<.tU?
J
I ; n Mar I., \Ly,July ?z,!,,hiv 0: lV.,1.,:"~rCn,-
1 no different. After an initial design con- sign department never ceases to amaze
11..2200cr,,.n .\.e.. rJe.. u,tt. ..I A A I I ~ cept meeting, 1'11 often find Ken or Kent me, I'm still in awe at the multitude of
down in the shop building a section of a ideas that come in daily from readers.
*ttmerved
%beeriptiom: single Copy, $495, onon YY ~ u b s e r i ~
bench top or struggling with the me- You'll notice that many of our Shop So-
tion (6 issues), $19.95. -0 years (12 issues>,$3595. Can chanics of a new jig. It's always fun to lutions are creative modifications to
M m i g n , d d $5.00 per yea.
Second Class Postaee Paidat Oea Moines. IA and watch the modifications they make as projects in prior issues.
at d & b n a l offices
Postmastez Send of addmss U SbpNotes, the project progresses. So take the time to try out your new
Box11204 DesWoxrs IAS0340-12M
~ b ~ ~ ~ t i o n Call~1.8000-335685,Bam
t ~ i i 7 SAW T-
. That was the case ideas. Build a prototype or a model be-
to5pm, Centtsllime, weekday8 with the Sabre Saw Table in this issue. fore yon cut into that precious stack of
E-MsuLPmd~gyEDJESIA, CompaServe 75330,aOl.
Intmet 7535(12301~omowerteemAm
hne Shopnotes
It started out as just a box with a sabre cherry or walnut. You'll save yourself
saw bolted upside down underneath. some aggravation. And who knows.
Then someone suggested it would be Maybe you'll come up with a different
handy to be able to cut circles with it. technique or a new idea.
 Contents
Projects & Techniques
Saw Blade Storage 4 Saw Blade Storage Pag
Protect and organize your valuable saw blades with this
handy storage cabinet.

Turning with a Spindle Gouge 6

This versatile turning tool can do it all- from roughing
out spindles to shaping decorative coves and beads.

Shop-Made Mallets 8
Two traditionally designed shop mallets that can be turned
withjust a spindle gouge and a parting twl.

Sabre Saw Table 16

A simple fable and a unique adjustable arm convert your Shop-Made Mallets Page 8
hand-held sabre saw Into a precision cutting tool.

Dowel Joinery 22
It's easy to make strong, accurate dowel joints withjust an
electric drill and one of our simpie shop-madejigs.

Departments
Thesmallshop
Selecting Hand Tools 10
What are the most practical hand and portable electrrc
tools for the small shop? Here's a look at our top p~cks
SelectingTaols
Random-Orbit Sanders 12
Our three-man testrng team offers suggestrons on which
palm-grrp random-orbB sander is best for you
GreatTf
Lumber Storage 7ips 24
Here's a collectron of our favorrte lumber storage trps
Finii Room
Varnish 26
A hard, durable ffnrsh for your specal prolects
At the Store
New Products 27
TapeMate, VentasBrass Insert Knobs, and NobexSquares
Readers'm
shop 6lutions 28
SIXshop-tested solut~onsfrom our readers
Lumbeyad
Buying Lumber 30
A step-by-step approach to buyrng hardwood lumber

1 No.23 ShopNotes
 A compact cabinet that stores,
organizes, and protects your
valuable saw blades.

he simplest way to store a that holds the pull-

saw blade is to hang it on a
nailin the wall. But if you
" have as
many blades as I do, there's a
problem. You can either hang
them all on the same nail and run
the riskof damagingthe teeth. Or
hang them on separate nails and
lose valuable wall space.
To solve both problems, I built
a saw blade cabinet that cansit on
a workbench or be screwed to a
wall, see photo. It has nine single
trays that can each handle a 10"
(or smaller) saw blade. And one
double-size tray for a dado blade.
I began by building the cabinet
out trays. It's just a
."
open plywood bo
with grooves cut
sides for the tr
trays,
SIDES.When
(A), I oriented the a n to run the
same direction as the grooves, see
Fig. 1.This way, there's less chance
of chipping the face veneer when
the grooves are cut later.
GROOVES. After the sides are
cut to size, there are two sets of
?4"-wide grooves to cut. The first
set of grooves forms half of alock-
ing rabbet that joins the top and
bottom to the sides, see Figs. 1
saw blade trays, see Fig. lb.
I cut all of these grooves witha
dado blade in the table saw. And
to match up the grooves in each
side piece, I used the ripfence as
a stop and the same setup for
each opposing groove before 0
moving on to the next set.
RABBETSFOR BACa In addition
to the grooves, arabbet is cut inthe
back edge of each side piece. This

(, . THICKNESS O
PLYWOOD
]F-

,
la-,!''
OVERALL DIMEN510N5:
15W H x l2Yw" W x llW D

ShopNotes No. 23
 WxM'
ADHESIM-BACKED
RUBBER BUMPER
TRAY PULLTEMPLATE
ph" MASONITE)

texw NOTE:
Fh WOoDSCREW SAND DOWELTO
FIT ARBOR HOLE
THEN CENTER
aTALL TRAY FRONT
~s/i.xmd.rlt..,
DOWEL ON TRAY

rabbet accepts a back that's added made up of a bottom and a tray front (J) to the remaining bottom
later, see detail in Fig. 1. front, see Fig. 4. The only differ- for your dado blade, see Fig. 4.
~ & m ~ . N work o w can ence is the tray for the dado blade After the fronts are screwed in
begin on the top (B) and bottom has a taller front. place, the pulls can be routed, see
(C), see Fig. 1. To leave room for BOTMMS.Each tray bottom Fig. 4 and the box below.
the back, the length (depth) of (H) is extra long (12")to allow for HARDWARE. To secure each saw
each piece is 1/4" less then the a pull that's routed later. To de- blade, I screwed a short length of
sides (lO1hl'),see Fig. 1. And tennine the width of the tray, dowel to the center of each tray.
they're cut to a width of ll1/1fiU.measure the distance between And to raise the blade up so it's
(Note: For appearance, the grain the grooves in the sides and sub- easy to lift out, I added four self-
direction of the top and bottom tract 1/16"for clearance (11"). adhesive rubber "feet,"see Fig. 4.
should match that of the sides.) F R O N T S . Tnext
~ ~ step is to Finally, so you can locate a
To complete the top and bot- add a trayfront (I)to nine of the blade at a glance, add a brass la-
tom, arabbet is cut in the ends. It tray bottoms. And a tall tray bel holder to each tray front.
forms a tongue to fit the grooves
cut earlier, see Figs. la and lb.
BACK After gluing and clamp-
ing the cabinet together, cut a
back (D)to fit &om 1J411 Masonite
and screw it in place, see Fig. 1.
I One of the quickest ways to make
identical parts is to use a template
I
FACINGS. To complete the cabi- and a flush trim bit. Just carpet
net, I covered the plywood edges tape the template to a blank and
with facing strips cut from W- set thebearing on the flush trimbit
thick maple, see Figs. 2 and 3. to ride against the template.
Start by gluing on the sides (El. For the pulls on the saw blade
Then cut a top (F) and bottom (G) cabinet, the templateis made up of
to fit and glue them in place. two parts: a small piece of W' Ma-
@ -.Now the cabinet is sonite shaped like a pull (see Fig. lwerrt~carrams. n ~ U I L Kway tu pruuu~e
ready for the trays. Whether a), and the hardwood front of each rdent~calpartsis tomake a template and use
you're building trays for single tray, see photo at right. if as a pattern for a flush trim bit to follow
blades or for a dado blade, each is

No. 23 ShopNotes 5
 I
Turning with a
Spindle Gouge I
T here's a rack full of turning
tools next to my lathe. And
to be honest, I could probably get
a l o n ~without some of the more
specialized tools. But take away
the spindle gouges and I'd be like
a mechanic without a wrench.
That's because when turning
1

make a number of different cuts

- like roughing out a cylinder,
cutting a cove, or turning a bead.
The reason is the tip of agouge
is shaped like a lady's fingernail,
see margin. So nomatter what
size gouge you're using (W, lh",
or 3A1').there are no sharw cor-

u a
Whether you're turninga blockof
wood or a round log, a spindle
gouge makes quick work of
roughing it down to a cylinder.
TOOLREST & GRIP. TO Support
the gouge, I position the toolrest
about ?C in front of the work-
piece and 1/4"belowits centerline.
-
Combining this with~ -an
~ -
~~~overhand
~

grip gives me plenty of control Step 1. Withyourhandagainstthe Step2. Starting with the handle
Because of its when making a cut, see Step 1. tool rest, wrap your fingers around of the gouge down low, gradually
fingernail shape, CUTIXNG EDGE. The quality of the blade in an overhand arip. lift up on it to produce a shavina.
a spindle gouge this cut depends on how you posi-
doesn't have any tion the cutting edge of the gouge.
corners to "catch" I start with the handle quite low
the workpiece. so the cutting edge isn't even in
eontact with the wood, see Step
2. Then simply raise the handle
until you get a shaving.
Once the gouge starts to cut
just slide it along the tool rest.
Angling the gouge a bit in the
direction you want to cut and roll-
ing the blade slightly will pare off Step 3. As you slide the gouge blade slightly in the same direc-
shavings like you're peeling a po- along the tool rest, angle it in the tion. Then just repeat the process
tato, see Step 3. direction of travel and roll the until a rough cylinder is formed.

I 6 ShopNotes No. 23 I
 cutting a cove
The curved tip on a spindle gouge
also makes it a perfect tool for
turning a cove. Like a shovel, it's
used to "scoop"out material from
both sides ofthe cove down to the
center of the hollow.
ENTRYPOINT. The thing to he
aware of is the gouge has a ten-
dency to skid to one side at the
start of the cut. To prevent this, I
establish an "entry point" for the
*
Sfep 1. After laying out the cove,
push the tip of a parting tool into
the work to make a shallow V-cut.
GumnCl a Bead
The shape of a head is the exact
opposite of a cove. So simply by
reversing the direction of cut, you
can turn ahead with a spindlegouge.
~ o u . I n s t e a dof a scooping
cut, the bead is formed by rolling
the gouge - first to one side,
then the other. As before, work-
ingfrom alarge diameter down to
a small one reduces tearout.
REMOVE WASTE. But before
turning the bead, there's one
- Step 1. To give the gouge room
to work, remove the waste on the
sides of the bead you plan to cut.
No. 23
blade by making a shallow ('/32")
cut with a parting tool, see Step 1.
SUE. Another thing to keep in
mind is the size of the gouge. To
give the cutting edge room to
work, you'll need to use a gouge
that's smaller than the desired
width of the cove. For example,
I use a M" gouge to cut a 3/4" cove.
CUT DOWNHILL. To produce a
clean, crisp surface, the idea is to
cut "downhill" by working from a
Step 2. With the flute on the gouge
facing the intended cove, push
the tip firmly into the V-cut (left).
thing to do. To provide clearance
for the gouge to work, you'll need
to remove the waste from the
sides of the bead, see Step 1.
TURN BEAD. NOWyou can turn
the bead. Start with the gouge on
its back and the handle well down
so the bevel is rubbing on the
workpiece, see Step 2.
Although the gouge won't be
cutting yet, that's okay. It gives
you a chance to tbink about mak-
ing asmooth, flowing cut so you11
Step 2. Start with the gouge on
~ t sback and the handle well
down. Then raise the handle and
ShopNotes
large diameter to a
small one. Start with the
gouge on its side and
push the tip slowly (but
firmly) into the work-
piece, see Step 2. Then
roll the blade on its back
to scoop out one side of the cove. A To create a
To turn the other side, just re- clean, crisp cove,
peat the process. Depending on make a scooping
the size and shape of the cove, you cut with the gouge.
may need to make several cuts.
Then roll the gouge on its back to
scoop out one side of the cove
(right). Repeat for the other side.
end up with a bead that
has a uniform shape on
each side.
Each side of the bead
is cut by blending sev-
eral different motions
into one continuous cut,
see Step 2. What I've
found works best is to remove A A simple bead
small amounts of material until is formed by
you're satisfied with the shape. rolling the gouge
Then just turn the other side of over on its side.
the bead so it matches.
roll the gouge on its side. At the
same time, swing the handle to the
side and push the gouge forward.
7

at how quickly it takes shape.
And these mallets are no exception
With just two basic tools (a
spindle gouge and a parting tool),
you can spend a morning making
shavings and end up with a mallet
you'll use for years. (For more on
using a spindle gouge, see page 6.)
TWO MALLETS. Depending on
the type of woodworking you
do, you may want to turn one (or
both) of these mallets. The heft
of the carver's mallet (on the
right in the photo above) allows
you to strike a chisel with afirm,
solid blow. While the carpen-
ter's mallet (left) is best suited
for tapping a chisel or for light
assembly work.
OYERALL DIMENBDNS:
9W W x 1We"L
A simple design makes it
quick and easy to turn these
A
mallets o i the lathe. ~.
+ r
. ~
u:.
thick hardwood (maple), see Fig. 1.
f HEAD. ARer momtinethe block
Liki-a traditional carver's tool, and roughing out the cylinder, you
both the head and handle of this can start on the head of the mallet.
mallet are turned from a single To make it easy to strike a chisel
bloek of wood. I made the block squarely on the handle, there's a
by gluing up three pieces of l3/4"- gradual taper cut on the head.
GLUE UP
BLOCKS
/
NOrr:
BLOCK5 ARE p' '-
SECOND:
USE SAWTO
P REMOVE WASTE
MATERIAL FROM
HANDLE
I ~ a m mallet
~ s
First, rough out the block with a spin-
dle gouge. Then use a partfng tool to
define the headand the endofthehandle
After cutting a gradual taper on the
2. head, switch to a parting tool to es-
lblish the step af the top of the handle
Using a spindle gouge, scoop out
3 the wide cove at the base of the
?adandshapethe curves on the handle
The narrow cove and the button ,
1: the end of the handle can also b~
rrned using a smaN spindle gouge
fin all^: use a parting tool to cut a C
3 sbght curve at the large end, sand,
~d remove the mallet from the lathe
ShopNotes No. 23
C SHOP PROJECT

(For a step-by-step procedure, near each end. And here again,

see drawing and box on page 8.) the striking surhce (the ends) ta-
HANDLE. The handle ofthe rnal- per slightly. After removing the
head from the lathe. I drilled a
let is desirmed to be held right be- %"

low the hzad - like ''el~ok&~ hole (mortise) for the handle us-
up"

the base of the head provides a

ing the simple jig shown below.
on a baseball bat. The large cove at
HANDLE.Except for a tenon on
w.w,,, ,,
comfortable grip. And a gentle one end that fits in the mortise,
gN
:j 1
;F",:2
;g
curve that swells toward the cove the handle is identical to the one
and button at the end of the handle
on the carver's mallet. To sneak
keeps your hand from slipping. up on a perfed fit, remove small T&yhc,;zE
amounts of material and check IM"XIW-IB
the fit of the tenon frequently.
I made the carpenter's mallet by WEDGE. All that's left is to as-
turning two separate blanks -a semble the mallet. To keep the
maple one for the head, and a headfromlooseningup,the handle OVERALL
cherry turning square for the is locked in place with a wedge. DIMENSIONS:
4%"W x l m ' L
handle, see drawingand box below. This is just a matter of cutting a
HEAD. The head e w e s gently kerf in the tenon, applying glue,
from the center to a small bead and driving in a wedge, see Fig. 2.
. -
CUT KERF IN TENON
Carpenter's Mallet I:
llslg Yg
Rough art a cflmferwith a spin- m g h d cut, Y
1 1

.
die gwg~i,and use a p a r t ~ gtwl mrkN?eendofthehamileanB t{
defne the ends ofthe head. the re at the base of Me tern 1
Now use a s p M e gouge to Shape &he handie b&v@n these
l shape the cmer; that run m k s wrth a spindk.gouge 7hen
a center of 6% b a d to each end. turn the cove and buffw at Ihe end.
2
SECOND: THIRD:
Cmptefe the b a d us& a part-
jingtaoiBfamM&beads
Using a spindie gouge, turn th
3tenwta*1tbendoffhehandk:to
's 'i
p
:B
APPLY GLUE AND CUT OFF W A S E
DRlM IN WEDQE AND 5AND FLUSH td to cut the curves w ihe ends. fir Jbe tmrtise in the m/kthaad. :;
~3.'
.%...*. *...
~~;l;0>3.:: h~~~ii~i'iiii'r'r,'r'r'r;r;riiiiiii.iibbbbbbbb*bbbbbbuuuu,uuu~~~~~ii*iiiiiii:iiiiiiiiiiiiIm~~~~~~,~~.%~~~, .%
,. &il;,~<>

Drilling Jig
Mlinffa hole through a ram6
*HAW BLOCK

though from both sides to pre-

vent chipout, yet still manage to
keep the holes aligned.
This siinple j ig eolves both
probbms. To hold the head
ska& tm T-shaped block A The secret ro thffijtg is fo clamp it in
are se~eweato a scrap 2x4, piace so the bit aligns w~ththe hoie in
the a 4 that holds a duwel. Fitting the
hole fhafs dfllledin oneside of ihe head
M e d in the. 2x4 to auto- over the dowel ensures that the hole

No. 23 ShopNotes 9
 Selecting HandTools
_ Tools. When outfitting your shop with
.~'
~~
power hand tools, plan each purchase ahead of
time and shop around for the best deal.
L
ike many woodworkingshops,
my shop started out as a col-
lection of hand tools used mainly
for home improvements. When a
bedroom door no longer closed, I
bought a plane to make it fit
again. To build a fence, 1bought
a circular saw and built a pair of
sawhorses to help get the job
done, see box on next page.
After a while, I had acquired
enough tools to tackle my first
woodworking project. In hind-
sight, I wish I had given more
thought to the tools I had pnr-
chased - a little more planning
could have saved some money.
The following hand tools are
Conetanthe9 those I'd recommend to anyone
(000-223-8007) gettinginto woodworking. To keep
Oarrett Wade costs down, plan ahead and watch
(000-22.2942) for sales at hardware stores and
Tool Crib
(800-350-3036)
home improvement centers.
Tmrs on %re Yon might also consider pur-
(800328-04571 chasing from mail-order catalogs,
Trendlines see sources at left. These tools
(000-767-9999) may cost less than those at a retail
WoodcaFt
outlet. And some catalogs don't
(800-225-1153)
Woodwork~ra'Store
charge for shipping. Also, if you're
not living in the state where the
W O ~ W O * ~Sup&
~ catalog is located, you might not
have to pay state sales tax.
Hand Tools.A chisel set, a few hand planes, and
a square or two are just a few of the hand tools that
should be in every woodworking shop.
One other thing. I recommend
buying the best tools you can af-
ford - better tools last longer.
And they'll out perform their
less-expensive competitors.
POWER TOOLS
Most woodworkersbegin their col-
lection with power tools. And the
most practical one to start with is
the circular saw.
CIRCULAR SAW.A circular saw
is great for cutting up plywood.
And with the help of a straight-
edge, it can be used to rip or
crosscut softwood and hardwood.
Most circular saws fall in a
price range of $30 to $150 -with
the better saws costing over $65.
So it's a good idea to compare
them closely and base your deci-
sion on how it will be used, and
how much you'll use it.
Once you've made your pick,
check to see what type of blade it
comes with. If it isn't carbide-
tipped, invest in a quality comhi-
nation-tooth blade ($10 to $15).
What you'll get is a blade that
cuts smoother with less chipout.
This means the motor won't work
as hardandwillruncooler-which
ShopNotes
.
*
should make the saw last longer.
ELECTRIC DRILL. My next to01
of choice is an electric hand drill
with a 3 4 chuck. It's good for
drilling pilot holes for screws and
other fasteners.They're great for
assembly work or things like
dowel joinery, see page 22.
When looking for a hand drill,
there are two roads to follow. You
can buy a corded drill (around
$30). Or a cordless, rechargeable
drill ($100 and up). The advan-
tage of a corded drill is they cost
a lot less than a cordless drill.
The advantage of a cordless
drill is its portability. No more
hassle with tangled extension
cords. And you won't have to
drag one through the house every
time you want to hang apicture.
RANWM-ORBITSANDER Since
most projects need some sanding,
I'd buy a random-orhit sander.
They're hard to beat for remov-
ing planer marks, chipout, and
scratches. Expect to pay around
$75 for a good one. (For more on
these, see the tool review begin-
ning on page 14.)
0
ROUTER. I use a router in just
about every project I build -
No. 23
 THE SMALL SHOP

whether it's routing a groove, a for woodworking.

dado, or just a decorative profile. CHISELS &MALLET. My favor-
This versatile tool can even be ite hand tool is the chisel. I use it
mounted upside down in a shop- all the time to cut joinery (like Power Tools
made or purchased table for use dovetails and mortises) or to fit Circular Saw (with carbide blade)
as a small shaping tool. parts together during assembly.
A quality set of chisels isn't Electric Drill (3/8" chuck)
My first router had a3/4 hp mo-
torwith a 1/4" collet. But now I usecheap. It'll cost about $40 to $50 Random-Orbit Sander
a 1%hprouter withinterchange- -but like everything else, you Router (with carbide bits)
able 'A"and l/z" collets. The two could spend more to get more. Sabre Saw
different collets allow me to use While you're at it, pick up a wood
my old '/4" bits, but any new bit I mallet ($20) or make yourself one,
Hand TOOIS
buy has a 1/2" shank. see page 8. (A wood mallet is eas- Chisel Set & Mallet
There are a number of good ier on the handles of your chisels.) Block Plane &Jack Plane
routers to choose from. Prices PLANES. You'll also need a cou- Cabinet Scraper
range from $70 to $200. And you ple of good hand planes. A jack Japanese Saws
can find good-quality,carbide hits plane ($70) is good for edge joint- Combination or Try Square
for around $20 each. ing, smoothing, and flattening .. .,.. ;;.!>~,..,.\.:,. ,,>,...>,,
....:,,
.,
SABRE SAW. When you need to lumber. A low-angle block plane I .,. , ,~
,..~ ,...;.
., > .:....,. !,,:.~~'.,.:::::::~<<~i?;:~::.'<<<t, :,:h

cut a curve or a circle, you can use($45) is useful for trimming and by hand, I prefer a Japanese saw
a coping saw ($15). But a sabre fitting parts. Also, a low-angle ($30 to $60). These saws are de-
saw is quicker. And it can cut block plane is the perfect tool for signed to cut wood quickly,
through thick stock much easier. trimming end grain. cleanly, and accurately. They
If you're only going to use a CABINET SCRAPER. A cabinet have razor-sharp teeth and cut on
sabre saw every now and then, I scraper is an excellent way to ob- the pull stroke for better control.
don't recommend spending more tain glass-smooth wood. Unlike (This is especially useful when
than $50. But if you think it's a the large, thick curls a hand plane cutting dovetails and tenons.)
tool you'll use a lot, especially produces, a cabimet scraper pro- SQUARES. Finally, no shop is
with a stand (like the one shown duces micro-thin shavings. complete without an accurate
on page 16), consider spending In fact, some woodworkers square for checking inside and
more for a higher-quality tool. don't even use sandpaper. Theyll outside corners. For most pro-
scrape an entire project smooth, jects, a small try square ($15 to
HAND TOOLS then apply the finish. A cabinet $50) with a 5" blade is all you'll
In addition to the basic hand tools scraper can last a lifetime, and need. But a combination square
(like hammers, pliers, and screw- best of all, they cost less than$10. ($50) is also nice for checking set-
drivers), you'll need a few others JAPANESE SAW. TO Cut WOO^ ups and mitered corners.

Even though they're not consid-

ered hand tools, a solid work-
bench and apair of sawhorses are
essential tools to have in the
shop, see drawings
Quite often they're one of the
first things you'll build for your
shop: the workbench for general
woodworking, and the sawhorses
to support and work on over-
sized projects. (And along with a
sheet of plywood, sawhorses can
even be used to create a quick
temporary work surface.)

No.23 ShopNotes 11
 SELECTING T O O L S

Random-Orbit
Sanders
If y0utl.e buying a random-orbit sander, our
hands-on test of seven palm-gri-p models
w i l l steer you in the right direction.
W e bought two random-or-
bit sanders for the shop a
few years back. And while each
sander is different (one is held by
the body like a right-angle
grinder; the other has a pistol
grip handle) both sanders do ex-
actly what they promised.
One of the best things is they
remove material quickly. That's
because their sanding pads spin
like a disc sander. At the same
time, the pads orbit in a random
t
motion that leaves the surface
nearly free of swirl marks.
Because this dual actionis such
an efficient method of sanding,
several different manufacturers
have come out with their own ran-
dom-orbit sander. And unlike the
sanders we bought, many ofthem
incorporate a more compact body
that's designed to be held with a
palm grip.
TESTCRITERIkTo find out
which of these palm-grip
- - sanders
*
is best, we bought and tested all
the models that are currently
available, see photos below.
Some of the tests (like sanding
a rough-sawn board so it's
smooth) showed how fast the
sander could remove stock, see
box on the opposite page. Other
tests gave us a good idea if the
sander left cross-grain scratches
or swirl marks.
TEAM. Like our other tool re-
views, we put together a team of
three peopie witk different wood-
worldng experience to test the
sanders. Gary is just getting
started in woodworking. Steve is
an intermediate woodworker. And
Ken is a professional cabinetmaker.
Of course, having three differ-
ent viewpoints canlead to having

Kyobi R5-112
- 277l
Black & Decker
more than one '%estnsander. But
that's okay. This way, you can use
the comments of the person
800-487-8665 800-525-2579 800-544-6980 whose experience is closest to
$79.95 $49.99 $79.95
yours to help select a sander
that's best for you.

7 ety
These sanders come i n a vari-
shapes and sires Which
ne yovides the most com-
fortable grip? And how
does the p i p affect your
control when sanding?

Wen 15 Sears 27714 Makita 805001

-F
DeWalt DW421
- Ken: Depending on the sand-
ing job, I change grips back and
forth. When I'm working in a
800-462-3630 800-290-1245 800-487-8665 800-433-9258 tight spot, holding the body of the
$40 $39.99 $69.99 $79.95 sander gives me the best control.

12 ShopNotes No. 23
(I) But if I'm sanding a large area (or
for a long period of time), a top
grip is more comfortable. Since I
can grip the Porter Cable, Black
& Decker (B&D), DeWalt, and
Makita sanders either way, they
provide the best of both worlds.
(See photos at right.)
Cary: I found the Sears and
Ryobi sanders were extremely
comfortable to grasp by the top.
But they're fairly short. So when
holding these sanders by the
body, I was always worried that
the sanding disc was going
- - to
slice my hand.
Steve: The Wen sander is the
exact opposite. It's so tall that
when I grab it by the top, I'm too
far away from the workpiece to
have much control. While the
body grip is comfortable, it forces
me to hold mv a m uarallel to the
worksurfaceUwhichismore t i r i n ~
S ~ tthat
" covers the switch
(left) is harder to turn on and off. But unlike a big deal to me. In fact, And searching for an extension
a standardswitch (right), it seals out dust. compared to the positive cord is just a nuisance.
sander removed material by
sanding a rough boardsmooth.
No. 23
Grip. The top of the Ryobi (left) and pending on the job, be in^ s to
the body on the Wen (center) sander grip a sander like the Porter Cable
provide a comfortable grip. But de- (right) either way offersmore control.
if I'm doing a lot of sanding.
- click you get when turninz on the
switches t h a t aren't covered,
What about the onloffswitches
they felt a bit mushy.
on the sanders?
I also noticed some dyferences
Cary: Each sander has arocker
i n the power cords. What did you
switch. And they're all located
right under the top front edge
find here?
within easy reach for a right- Ken: It's just a small thing. But
handed or left-handed Derson. I've found that the power cords
-
But there's one t h & ~ I liked that have alslastic iacket (like the
about the switches on the ones on the Ryohi, Wen, and
I/ 1 mn
DeWalt, B&D,Sears, and Makita) tend to kink and take on
Ryobi sanders. They a "set" when you store the sander.
have arubber 'looot" that I prefer the flexible rubber jack-
seals out dust. And that's ets on the other power cords.
a definite plus for me con- Cary: The length of the cords is
sidering the amount of more important to me. (See mar-
dust that gets kicked up. gin at right.) Using a sander with
(See photos at left.) a short cord is like walking a dog
steve: That's not such that yanks at the end of his leash. ,
, %
r I
WbA
, .~, ,...
,.. ..
.
ion i n sn
of a frame showedif a sander were revealed by applying stain
left cross-grain scratches. to a boardsandedup to 180-grit
ShopNotes 13
Performance -

Let'sface it. The bottom line of ning, I can set it down on

a sander is how well it performs. the workpiece without
What were you looking for here? creating a big gouge.
And how do these sanders stack That speeds things up
up against each other? considerably when I
need to check my sand-
Steve: When it comes to per- ing progress.
formance, I'm after one thing - All the other sanders
a sander that removes stock tend to skid when the
quickly. Of all the sanders I disc first makes contact
tested, the aggressive sanding with the workpiece. So I
action of the Makitais what sticks have to turn off the -
in my mind. It chewed through sander, make sure the
wood twice as fast as the other pad is in contact with the wood, other sanders, I only noticed a
sanders. (See the chart at right.) and then start it up. few light scratches.
Cary: Too fast for me. The Even though I
Makita is so agressive, I think it's make a "soft landing" with the Doesn't thatdefeat theprpose
of a "mndom-nrbit,,sanderZ
a bit difficult to control. And that Sears and Ryobi sanders, I was
starts to wear me down if I'm still impressed with the amount Steve:I don't thinkso. Granted,
worklng on a large project. of material they removed in a these sanders don't leave an ab-
Besides removing stock fast, I short time. But the vibration pro- solutely "swirl-free" finish. But
want a sander that runs smooth duced by these sanders made my it's nothing that a small amount of
- especially when I'm sanding hands st& to tingle. hand sanding won't quickly re-
over a long period of time. Steve:Not half as much as the move. Whichis what I do anyway
The Porter Cable, Black & Wen - it jumps around like a no matter what sander I'm using.
Decker, and DeWalt provided bucking bronco. In fact, the only ml~esidesthe basic operation of I)
just the right combination of way 1could keep the sanding disc
smoothness and speed. In fact, in contact with the wood was to these sanders, what did you no-
these sanders operated so use two hands. And even then, my tzce about the pads and the sand-
smoothly, it surprised me how hands and arms went numb after zng discs?
fast they knocked down the small only a few minutes of sanding. Steve:The biggest thing is how
"steps" between the hoards on a the sanding discs attach to the
glued-up panel. What did that do to the
pads. The Black & Decker, Sears,
Ken: Another thing I liked of finish 0% the suvace? Were
and Wen sanders all use pressure
about these three sanders is they there any noticeable cross-grain
scratches or swirl marks? sensitive adhesive PSA) discs.
have a special brake that slows With these, I just peel off the pro-
down the spinning of the pad when Ken: Like you'd expect, the tective paper backing and stick
it's not in contact with the wood. Wen left significant scratches the disc to the pad.
So even with the sander run- and swirl marks. But with the All the other sanders have an

Pads. A hook & loop system (left) makes it quicker

and easier to change sanding discs than a pad that
uses pressure sensitive adhesive discs (right).

14 ShopNotes No. 23
 @ interlocking hoop and loop sys-
tem. The back of one of these
discs is filled with a fuzzy mate-
rial that sticks to the sandingpad
like a cockleburr. (See the photos
on the bottom of page 14.)
Cary: Although the PSA discs
only cost about half as much, the
hook and loop systems have one
definite advantage - the discs
are reusable. As long as there's Dust Collection. The optional hose that connects the Makita (left) to
still some grit left, I can remove a shop vacuum picks up nearly all the dust. But it's not as handy as
a disc and slap it back on as the built-in canisters on the Porter Cable and De Walt sanders (right).
many times as I want.
But when I take off a PSA disc, Cary: But dealing with a hose of the canister and back into the
sawdust either collects on the that snakes all over the place is a sander. When I turn on the
back so I can't attach it again, or pain for me. Not to mention that sander, plumes of dust blow out.
the adhesive is just too weak to it costs an additional $30 for an The Porter Cable gets around
stick a second time. 8-foot hose. this with a plastic check valve
Ken: One last thing about the Steve: Wellat least it gives you that's installed between the ean-
PSA discs. I left one on overnight, the option of picking up the dust. ister and the sander. This valve
and it nearly "welded" to the pad. With the Sears, Ryobi, and Wen opens as dust is blown into the
The only way I could remove it sanders, there's no built-in dust canister. Then it drops shut to
was by scraping off tiny pieces collection system whatsoever. keep dust from getting back in.
of sandpaper. Ken: That's not the case with
the Porter Cable, DeWalt, and
, .) We can't talk about sanders
Black & Decker sanders. Each of
I without mentioning dust. Which these comes with a canister that
sanders do the best job of control-
collects dust after it's drawn up
ling dust?
Steve: Overall, I'd have to say
-
throuch the holes in the ad.
At first, I thought these canis-
the hose on the Makita sander ters would get in my way when
I
provided the best dust collee- sanding. But when I'm working
I
! tion system. One end fits over a in a tight spot, the canisters can
dust port on the side of the be pivoted around the body of the
sander. (See the photos above.) sander. (See the photos at right.)
And the other end attaches to a Cary: The only problem I have Pi t can~steron the
shop vacuum that draws in with the Black & Decker and De- Porter Cable can be pivoted
nearly all the dust through holes Walt is when I tip them over to around the body of the sander so
in the sanding pad. change discs, the dust dumps out you can sand into tight places.

Cary: Controlling dust is impor-
tant to me. So I eliminated the
sanders without dust collection
right off the bat. But then the
decision got tough.
What finally sold me on the De-
Walt is its smooth operation. Yet
it still removed stock fast and gave
me the best control of any sander.
If I could just slap on a check
valve, it would be a perfect tool.
Recommendations
Steve: I think sanding is a chore.
So when it comes to picking a
sander,the faster it works, the bet-
ter. That's why I chose the Makita.
It's a strong running sander
that "hogs" off wood. Even
though that makes it a bit harder
to control, it's worth it to me to
get the job done quickly.
I'd even spend the extra bucks
to buy the dust collection hose.
Ken: Since I sometimes sand for
hours at a time, the Porter Cable
is an easy choice.
There's almost no vibration, so
fatigue doesn't become a factor.
But this smoothness is deceptive.
It still cuts plenty fast for any of
the work I do.
And the pivoting dust canister
is handy when working inside a
cabinet or sanding into a corner.

No. 23
 Convert your s a b ~ esaw into a pwcision tool by
mounting it upside down in this shop-built table.

T ake a good tool and make it better. That's the

idea behind this sabre saw table. It allows you
to mount a sabre saw upside down under the table.
unique guide system to prevent the blade from
moving side to side, see photo A. So even when
making a curved cut, you end up with an edge that's
i,

Reversing the saw like this has a number of advan-
tages over using it in a hand-held position.
First, it provides a much more stable, controlled
cut. That's because you push the workpiece through
the blade on alarge table instead of guiding the saw
on a small metal base. And second, since the blade
cuts on the downstroke instead of the upstroke, the
top side ofthe workpiece won't splinter and obscure
the cut line. So it's easier to make an accurate cut.
GUIDE SYSTEM.But there's more to this table
than just inverting your sabre saw. It also has a
perfectly square to the face.
HOLD-DOWN. In addition to the guide system,
there's a bold-down that keeps the workpiece flat
against the table as you make a cut, see photo B.
And for safety, a Plexiglas guard is attached to the
hold-down to cover the blade.
ADJUSTXBLEARM. To make both the guide sys-
tem and hold-down work with pieces of different
thicknesses, they're supported by an adjustable
ann, see photo C. This arm can be raised (or low-
ered) so you can cut workpieces up to 1"thick.

A. Guide System. To ensure a perfectly 6.Hold-Down. A woodhold-downkeeps C. Adjustable Arm. The arm that sup-
square cut, a pa~rof bear~ngsprevents the workplece flat against the table And ports the guide system and hold-down
the blade from movlng side to s ~ d e a Plexiglas guard covers the blade adlusts for d~fferentth~cknesses
of stock

16 ShopNotes No. 23
I
 EXPLODED VIEW:

-
%$' r:zw OVERALL DIMEN510NS:
ADED
00
194"Hx 7&V4" x 18.0
#ex%'
Fh SHEET WASHER
MmAL SCREW5

WOODSCREW
4 e " x 1" HORIZONTAL
Rh MACHINE ARM PIECE
SCREW
0
PLEYIGLAS
GUARD
k Fh WWWCREW

@y
HOLD-DOWN
BLOCKS ,
PIECE

P
1 %6"
WASHER

NOTE3
CONSULT ELECrRICIAN
TO INSTALL OUTLET

Materials
Base Hardware
A 5ides (2) -
113/4 x 10 3/4 MDF 12) 5/16" x 2V2" Carriage Bolts (4) #0 x 1Vz" Fh Woodscrews
B Lower Rails (2) 2 x 22Vz - 3.74 MDF (2) 5/16" %Nuts (32) #0 x 2" Fh 5crews8
C Upper Rails (2) -
2 x 22V2 314 MDF
(2) 5/16" Plastic Knobs (2) #B x 2'/z1'Fh Woodscrews
D TOP(11 10 x 24 - '/4 Maeonite
E Cleat6 (4) 2x16'/2-3%MDF (I} %6"x 2V4" Threaded Knob (2) #0 x 3/4" Fh Woodscrews
-
(1) 2 b " x 3%" '/4" Plexiglas

F Back Shoe (1)
G Front Shoe (1)
Arm Assembly
H Vertical Arm Piece (1)
I Horlz. Arm Piece (1)
J Hold-Down Blocks ( 2 )
K Bracket (1)
L Adjustment Block (I)
-
q 4 x 13/6 - 2 (3) 5h6" Washers
-
3/4 x 13% 2 -
(2) 3/4" x %"Alum. Angle 3" long ( I } 5 / r s " ~1" Machine Screw
(2) 746" x %" Router Bearings
'Use flathead sheet metal screws
( 6 ) 3h6" Flat Washers with a strarght shank
(2) 3h6"~ I" Rh Machine Screws For a complete hardware kt, cali
(2) %6" Lock Nuts 5ho Notes Project Supplies
( 2 0 ) #6 x %"Fh 5crewsR a t 8700-444-7002.
( 6 ) #0 x 1V4" Fh Screws' Kit No. 5 2 3 - 6 0 2 3 - 2 0 0 .....$13.95

1 No23 ShopNotes 17
 Base
I started on the sabre saw table
by making the base. Basically, it
1
consists of two parts: an open box
to house the sahre saw, and a top -a
that serves as a work surface,see
Fig. 1.
BOX Since I planned on paint- ..,.-, ...
SCREU
ing the box, I made it from a ma-
terial that has a hard, smooth
surface - Medium-Density Fi-
berboard (MDF). But you could
just as easily use plywood.
The sides (A) of the box are
I
held together with two lower
(B) and two upperrails (C), see
Fig. 2. Although these rails are
the exact same size, they're ori-
ented differently.
To provide a solid clamping I
surface, each lower railis screwed
in place so itsface will rest on the
To avoid splitting
MDF, drill pilot
bench. And for strength, the up-
per rails are attached so the edges -
BOXJ
holes and use a will support the top. Note: To
screw with a
straioht shank.
avoid splitting MDF when screw-
ing into it, see the margin at left.
J I~BXZ'
Fh SHEET
METAL SCREW e
TOP. With the box complete,
thenext stepis to add the top (D), this slot is centered on the length add two cleats. Besides provid-
see Fig. 3. It's just a piece of 1/4" ofthe top, it'slocated closerto the ing additional support for the
Masonite that's cut to fit flush front edge. This way, the body of top, these cleats form a pocket
with the outside edges of the box. the saw won't stick out the back that accepts the metal base of
To create an opening for the of the box. the sabre saw.
saw blade, there's a short slot cut CLEATS. After screwing the Each cleat (E) is made by glu-
in the top, see Fig. 3a. Although top in place, the next step is to ing up two pieces of W-thick

,
ul!

FIBERBOARD

I 18 ShopNotes No. 23
 MDF into an L-shape, see Fig. 4.
Once the glue dries, you'll need to NOrr ARE
i FROM
use your sabre saw to determine
t the location of the cleats.
This is just a matter of holding
the sabre saw upside down under
the table with the blade centered
in the slot. Then position the
cleats so they fit tight against the
saw base and simply screw them
in place, see Fig. 4a.
P N . A t this point, if you're
planning to paint the box, it's
easiest to remove the top. I
sprayed on two coats of paint and
reattached the top by screwing it
to the box as well as the cleats,
see Fig. 4.

Mounting the Saw

With the base complete, you're into a T-nut installed in the shoe.
reads to mount the saw. While MOUNT SAW. Now all that's left

* the cleats keep the saw from

moving side to side, yon still need
a way to secure the front and
back of the metal base.
To lock the saw in place (yet
is to mount the saw to the table.
This is just a matter of sliding the
sawbase under the backshoe and
tightening down the front shoe to
lock the saw in place. -
still make it easy to take out and As an ~ p t i o n , ~ ocan
u attach an
usein the hand-heldposition), the electrical outlet to the box that has
base is held in place with two aswitch to turn the saw on and off, 1-
"shoes" -a back shoe that's per- refer to Exploded View on page A In addition to cleats that keep
manently attached and a front 16. Note: For questions about the saw from moving side to side,
shoe that's removable, see photo. wiring, consult an electrician. two wood blocks lock it in place.
BACK SHOE. The back shoe (F)
is a %-thick hardwood block with
a rabbet cut in one edge so it fits
tight over the base of the saw, see
Fig. 5. Note: Depending on your
saw, you may need to customize
the length of the blocks and the
height (depth) of the rabbets.
To attach the back shoe, the
process is basically the same as
with the cleats. Fit the saw be-
tween the cleats so the blade is
centered in the slot, slip the shoe
over the base, and screw it in
place, see Fig. 5a.
FRONT SHOE. The front shoe
(G) is identical to the one in the
back. But to make it easy to re-
move the saw, it's held in place
with a machine screw that threads

No. 23 ShopNotes 19
 The unique thing about this sabre
-
saw table is an adjustable wood
arm that extends over the table.
It consists of two parts: a vertical
arm piece that slides up and down
in a bracket, and a horizontal arm
piece to support the hold-down
and blade guide system, see Fig. 6.
VERTICAL ARM, For strength:
the vwtieal arm piece (H) is made
from a hardwood block (maple)
that's 1% square, see Fig. 6. A
pair of slots cut in this piece makt
the arm adjustable. And an oper
mortise in the top end accepts the
horizontal arm, see margin.
HORIZONTAL ARM. Here again,
the horizontal a r m piece (I) is
made from a 13Q-square block.
This piece has a tenon cut on the
end so it fits in the mortise. But
before assembling the two pieces,

there are a couple things to do.
NOTCH. First of all, there's a
notch cut in the top side of the
horizontal arm for the guide sys-
tem added later, see Fig. 6. A
counterbored shank hole drilled
A safe way to cut in the center of this notch is used
an open mortise to attach the guide system, refer
on a long work- to Fig. 9b.
piece is to clamp it HOLD-DOWN. The second thing
to a support jig is to add the hold-down. In addi-
that's made by tion to keeping the workpiece
screwing scraps from bouncing up and down as
of 2x4 together. you make a cut, the hold-down
has a Plexiglas guard attached to
it that covers the exposed blade.
The hold-down consists of two
3A"-thickhardwood blocks (J) that
fit in dadoes cut near the end of the
arm, see Figs. 6 and 7. It's easiest
to glue and screw the blocks in
place first, see Fig. 7a. Then
screw the Plexiglas to the blocks.
ASSEMBLY. NOW YOU can as-
semble the two arm pieces with
*
glue and screws, see Fig. 6a.
Note: To prevent the screws from
hitting each other, they're offset
from one side to the other.
B R A C ~ TOnce
. the arm is as-
sembled, the next step is to add a
bracket to the side of the table,
see Fig. 6. In addition to holding
the arm in place, the bracket
tracks it straight up and down.
This way, you won't have to read-

GUARD
(zM" x 35/e"
W PLEXIGLAS)

ShopNotes No. 23
 F E A T U R E PROJEC1

. e just the guide system every time

you reposition the arm.
The bracket (K) is a piece of
3@-thick hardwood with a cen-
t tered groove cut in it to fit the
arm, see Fig. 8. It holds the arm
by means of two carriage bolts
that pass through counterbored %6" I.D. xvam,
O.D.
k
shank holes in the bracket and the
I
slots cut in the arm, see Fig. 8b.
An easy way to locate these
1 holes is to fit the arm into the
I
i bracket so the ends are flush a t
the bottom, see Fig. 8a. Then just
!
use a brad point bit to mark
through the top end of each slot.
After drilling the holes, you
can install the bolts and fasten
the armto the bracket withwash-
ers and plastic knobs (or wing
nuts). Then simply screw this as-
sembly to the side ofthe table, see
Figs. 8 and 8b. (For a complete
hardware kit, refer to page 17.)
GUIDE SYSTEM.Once the arm

a,is in place, you can add the blade

g u ~ d system.
e To ensure a square
cut, this system keeps the blade
from deflecting to the side.
What makes this work is apair To make the bearings adjust- bracket to each comer of the
of router bearings that track the able from side to side, there's a block, it's attached to the arm
blade straight up and down, see slot cut in each bracket. And an with a threaded knob and T-nut.
Fig. 9. (Bearings are available ordinary wood block allows you ASSE~LY.A ~ ~ left is to
that's
through woodworking stores and to adjust them front to back. instdl the bearings. To allow them
catalogs.) Each bearing is attached This adjustment block (L) is a to spin freely, they're held in place
to a bracket cut from a piece of scrap of %"-thick hardwood with with a machine screw, three wash-
aluminum angle, see Fig. 9a. a slot cut in it. After screwing a em, and aloek nut, see Fig. 9b.

Step I. Slide the ad/ustrnent block Step 2. Now remove tt,- ,wcard and Step 3. h a & , adjust the arm so the
forward (or back) so the bearings are posifion the bearings close to (but not hold-down is about V32" above the
nght behind the teeth on the saw touching) the saw blade workpiece and lock rt in place.
T hefirsttypeofjoinerymany
woodworkers are introduced
to is the dowel joint. It's easy to
make and surprisingly strong.
Yet, as woodworkers gain ex-
perience, they tend to "outgrow"
dowel joinery. That's too bad. It's
still asimple, effective way to join
two pieces of wood.
One of the nice things about
dowel joinery is you don't need
much equipment. All it takes are
dowel pins, a hand drill, and some
simple shop-made jigs to ensure
that the holes align.
DOWEL PWS. There are two
common dowel pins: fluted and
spiral, see photo above. Mechani-
cally, they both do the same job.
I prefer fluted dowel pins he-
cause they hold glue the best.
And they allow airinside the hole
to escape better, making assem-
bly go easier. In any case, I don't
recommend short lengths of com-
mon dowels. They tend to trap air
and do a poor job of holding glue.

Frame Joint
.To join frame pieces together
with dowel pins, the holes must
he parallel and align perfectly.
The simplest way I've found to
ensure this is to use a shop-made
doweling jig, see drawing at
nght. It's just a piece of !LC Ma-
sonlte screwed to a block of hard
maple. Two holes in the block help
keep the opposing holes parallel
and aligned. Alignment marks on
the Masonite allow you to pre-
cisely position the jigoneachpiece.
To use the doweling jig, fist
draw a layout line across the cen-
ter of the ioint line, see Fig. 1.
Then clamp the jig to one ojthe the jig to the other workpiece in
workpieces- with the jig's align- the same manner. Then drill the
ment mark centered directly on opposing set of holes - through
the layout line, see Fig. 2. the opposite end of the jig to en-
After drilling the first set of sure the holes are parallel and
holes with a brad point hit, clamp aligned, see Fig. 3.

SECOND:
DRAW
LAYOUT
LINE ACR055
CENTER OF
JOINTLINE

22 ShopNotes No. 23
 The length of the block equals
the width of the stock. To keep
your drill bit straight, the jig
-7 ALIGNMENT

should be a t least 1"tall (wide). I BLOCK EQUALS

And to make it easy to align the THICKNESS OF
WORKPIECE
jig on the workpiece, its width
should equal the thickness of the
stock, refer to Fig. 2.
To use the jig, first arrange
your workpieces and mark their
W When using dowels to join wide centers, see Fig. 1. Now clamp adjoining workpiece, see Fig. 3.
boards or panels, I use an align- the jig on the end of the lirst To end up with opposing holes,
ment block, see drawing a t right. workpiece, see Fig. 2. position the jig on the other
It's just a piece of hard maple cut Once holes are drilled, the jig workpiece -making sure not to
to match the parts being joined. can he moved to the face of the flip it end-for-end or side-to-side.

ALIGNMENT USE OPPOSITE

SIDE OF JIG
FOR BOrrOM
To quickly coat a
hole with glue, stir
be glue around
.vith a dowel.

DRAW -
LAYOUT LlNE
ACROSS JOINT LlNE

slippery boards during clamping. set of holes are drilled to align

To drill straight holes into the
edge of a board, I use the drill
press and a fence, see Fig. 1.Then
dowel centers are used to locate
the opposing hole in the adjoining
with the first set, make sure that
you reference the same facing
side of the hoard against the drill
press fence that was referenced
on the first board.
w

POINT OF DOWEL
CENTER MARKS
Y"' 5 1 "PbT'"k, ON
IRKPIEL
INSERT DOWEL
CENlERS IN
HOLES AND PRESS
WORKPIECES TOGETHER
N a KEEP THE 6 A M E
FACE OF EACH WORKPIECE
AGNNST FENCE

No. 23 ShopNotes 23
 GREAT TIPS

Lumber Storage Tips *

Here are three storage ideas to help
you organize and store short lengths of
lumber and sheets of plywood.

Lumber Bin
Storing and organizing shorter
lengths of lumber is always a
problem. Lumber like this is gen-
erally too short for a rack and too
good to throw out. To store short
lengths of lumber, I use this free-
standing lumber bin, see photo.
I t works much the same way as
an album rack in a record store. It
has six different bins for sorting
wood by size and species. And it's
sloped from back to front to make
it easy for you to flip through each
board -like you would a bin full
of albums. (Remember those?)
The lumber bin can be built
kom two sheets of lh" plywood,
see drawing. It consists of two
individual units (three bins each)
screwed together in the middle.
To make assembly easy, each
unit's sides and dividers are cut t o
the same dimensions. The fronts
and backs are the same length.
Once the sides and dividers are
screwed to the bottom, the front
and back are cut to fit each unit.

. SECOND: cur FRON

BACK m

m x 9w.j~ 48"X 96"-W

PLYWOOD PLYWOOD

Lumber b c k
W If you don't have the floor space
for a lumber bin like the one
1
shown above, another wav to
store short lengths of lumbeiis to
use this double-sided, overhead
lumber rack, see drawing.
It's asimple design that doesn't
require any special joinery. All
you need are a couple of exposed
joists in your ceiling, a few 2x4s,
and a handful of 4" caniage bolts.
Each rack is made up of a sup-
port bracket with two oversized
arms. And the arms are tapered
slightly to help keep the lumber
in place.

24 ShopNotes No. 23
 \ cr
I +
/!
WM"
RADIUS

W Storing plywood and other The hinged bracket is just two from a short length of 2x4. Once
sheet goods doesn't require an 2x4s joined together at one end it's cut to size, the holes can be
over-sized shelf or a large lean-to with a 3"butt hinge, see drawing. drilled. Then a radius is cut at
storage rack. All it takes is some And a W dowel glued into the top each end to soften the sharp cor-
free wall space and this simple of each 2x4. ners and allow the index bar to
wall bracket, see photo. These dowels fit in holes drilled clear the wall.
The wall bracket consists of into the index bar so you can ad- To use the storage bracket, se-
two parts: a hinged bracket at- just the front bracket piece. The lect a hole in the index bar that
tached to the wall holds the ply- plywood is held against the wall takes the most slack out of the
wood in place, and an index bar with another ih" dowel (8" long) front bracket. When you want to
adjusts the opening of the that's gluedinto the bottm of the sort through the stack,justlift off
bracket to allow for varying front bracket. the index bar from the dowels
amounts of sheet goods. I ripped the index bar to width and set it on the last hole.

FIXED
WHEEL
1w WIDE x
%"DEEP

WIML CASTOR

DoUy.The easiest way I know to move sheet goods
around the shop is with this dolly. The dolly is just ashort
length of 2x6with three wheels. Two wheels are fixed. The
third is a swivel castor that allows the dolly to be steered
around the shop. To keep a sheet of plywood fromslipping
off the dolly, a groove is cut down the center of the 2x6
before the wheels are attached.
Tote. When I need to lii a sheet of plywood, and there's
no one around to give me a hand, I use this "handy" tote.
It's designed to hook under the bottom edge of the ply-
wood. The round handle is easier on my hand than the
sharp edges of the plywood. And the extended sides on
the tote make it possible for me to pick up a heavy sheet
with my legs -rather than my back.

No. 23
 Varnish
A special finish for a special
project. That's how I look
A deep,f m a l a t varnish. It produces a deep,
looking finish. formal looking finish. And it's one
of the toughest, most durable fin-
And a tough, ishes you can apply.
durable film. But not all varnishes are the
Two reasons same. Depending on the mix of
why varnish is solids and solvents, some types
ideal for your will act differently when you
special ~ o j e c t s . brush them on. So it's especially
important to test the varnish on a
scrap piece before applying it to
your heirloom project.
PORE FILLER Besides getting
a feel for the working qualities of
the varnish, you also need to de-
cide between a glass smooth fm-
ish and one that shows the texture
of the wood. For a mirror finish,
fill the pores of the wood with
filer before applying the varnish.
APPLICATION. The key to ap-
plying varnish is simple - pa-
tience. That's because it dries
very slowly. As a result, you need
to be on the lookout for a couple
of things.
DUST. First, the wet f i m acts
ishwithvarnish startswithagood-
quality natural bristle brnsh. (Iuse
1
a badger-hair brush.) It loads well
without dripping. And it releases
the varnish evenly.
To avoid introducing air hub-
bles into the finish, t h e key is to
use gentle pressure and draw the
brush slowly across the work-
piece, see photo A.
- Then, once the surface is cov-
ered, tip off the finish to remove
A. Flow On,Hold the brush at B. Tip (
about a 45" angle to the workprece rightand use the trps of the bristles
any brnsh marks , see photo B. and flow on a heavy coat of varn~sh to remove any brush marks.
26
the finish, sweep the
shop and wait until the
dust settles before ap-
plying the finish. Then
wipe the project with a tackcloth. Shop Tip: Sprinkle just a small
But even with a careful clean- amount of soapy water on the
ing, you can still pick up dust with surface to keep the sandpaper
the brush. To avoid contaminat- ram clogging.
ing the finish in the can, pour only To avoid cutting through the
the amount of varnish you need finish, the important thing is to
into a separate container. check your progress eequently.
RUNS & SAGS. Because it dries This means you'll need to wipe
slowly, varnish also has a ten- the surface dry.
dency to run or sag - especially What you want is a dull,uniform
on vertical surfaces. So if possi- sheen. (A low spot will show up as
ble, position the project so the a shiny streak.) If it looks like
surface you're working on is hori- you'll have to cut through the fin-
zontal. Also, a simple brushing ish to remove all the shiny places,
technique can keep most problems stop sanding and use the next
kom cropping up, see box below. coat to fill in the low spots.
FIRST COAT. Depending on the ADDITIONAL COATS. To build
brand of varnish, youmay need to up a protective film,you'll need
thin down the first coat withrnin- to apply several additional coats
eral spirits. Or, some manufactur- of varnish, sanding between each
ers recommend applying it full coat. If you're after a satin fin-
strength. In either case, once the ish, two or three coats usually
varnish cures, you'll need to sand provide plenty of protection.
it to prepare for the next coat. But if you plan to rub out the
A rnbber sanding block with finish to a glossy sheen, you may
owfioidtht
I$
ShopNotes No. 23
 New Products
y o d u c t s that have found a
Fmctional Calculator
rn Quick, what's 1/4" + 3/18'' + 3W -
!@? I don't know about you, but I
can't quickly add fractions like
these in my head. So when I came
across this solar powered Tape
Mate by LhgiTool, I h e w we had
to get one for the shop.
The Tape Mate is great for
adding and subtracting fractions.
You can also use it to figure
things like the even spacing of
five shelves in a 54"-tall cabinet.
Cu5tomized Knobs
E v e r y now and then a piece of
hardware catches my eye. For iu-
shance, these brass knobs by
Veritas are open ended so you can
plug them with wood to match
your project. (Or use contrasting
wood if you want them to stand
out from the project.)
To customize a knob, simply
epoxy a wood plug in the recessed
area of the knob. Then thread it
on a mandrel (available from
Collaptiible Square
w The f i s t time I came across a
Nobex Quattro square, I thought
it was just another try square -
only good for 90". But when I
picked one up, I realized it also
adjusted to two additionalangles,
45" and 135".
And when not in use, the blade
()folds up into the base like a blade
in a pocket kniie -which makes
it easy to slip it into the pocket of
your shopapron or in your tool box.
No. 23
Here's a look at three new
place in,our shop.
Or how many spindles you'll need
for a 36"-longcradle, with the spin-
dles spaced every 3W.
This handy tool slips over your
tape measure. Or you can take it
i
out of its protective case and
carry it in your shirt pocket.
The Tbpe Mak costs around $25
and is available through hardware
stores and home improvement
centers. Or you can order directly DigiTool
from DigiTool. 800-543-0930
Veritas) and chuck the knob in a
lathe or drill press. Now it's just
a matter of turning or sandingthe
plug smooth until it's flush with
the rim of the knob.
Brass insert knobs come in
three different sizes: 1/4" ($2.25
each), 3/s" ($2.60), and 5/s" ($2.95).
The insert knobs and mandrel
($1.50) come with complete in- Source:
structions -they're all available Veritae Toole, Inc.
through Veritas. 000-667-2986
But what amazed me most
about this square is how solidly it
'locks" in the different positions.
The secret to its accuracy is a set
of ball bearings used to snap and
lock the blade in place.
The Nobez QuatCro is available
with either a 6"or 10"blade. Both
are available through many mail-
order woodworking catalogs in a source:
price range of $17 to $20. Or from Farris Machinery
Farris Machinery. 800-072-5463
ShopNotes 27
-
 ShopSolutions
Dado Blade Jig
Setting up a dado blade can he
a chore. So rather than mount it
in my saw and then add or re-
move chippers and shims, I use a
simple set-up jig, see photo.
The jig is just an L-shaped wood
stand, see drawing. By making it
free-standing, I can use adial cali-
per or rule to check the blade's
width. And when I'm not using
the blade, I store it on the stand.
Charles R. Smith
Sharon, Ontario
i
Two-Sided Clamp 5tomge
I built the Clamp Storage Sys-
tem shown in ShopNotes No. 19
with one modification. Rather
than screw the pegboard rack di-
rectly to the wall, I made a frame
with hinges for it to hang from so
it could swing out from the wall.
This allows me to take better
advantage of the wall space in my
shop by using the hack of the rack
for additional clamp and tool stor-
age, see drawing.
The frame is made from stand-
ard construction grade 2x6s I
picked up from a local lumber-
yard. I mounted them on edge
with extra-long lag screws so the
kame would be deep enough for
the tools hanging on the hack.
To help support the extra
weight the tools added and make
it easier for me to swing the rack,
I installed a 3" caster to the bot-
tom of the pegboard rack before
screwing it to the hinges.
Finally, to keep the pegboard
against the wall when not in use,
a small hook and eye are screwed
into the frame and pegboard to
keep it closed.
Ben Lund
Johnston, Iowa

28 ShopNotes No. 23
--
 a Collet Wrenches
W Like many routers, my router
requires two wrenches to loosen
and tighten the collet. One pre-
vents the spindle from turning;
the other turns the collet nut.
To avold over-tightening the
collet and prevent my knuckles
from rapping together when the
nuts break free, I only use one
hand to handle both wrenches
when tightemng and loosenmg
the collet, see photos at right. Tighten Collet. A s~ngle grip and Loosen Collet. To loosen a collet,
James A. Norton a squeeze are all it takes to reposition the wrenches and just
Hurnboldt, Saskatchewan t~ghtena blt in a collet nut squeeze them together

Plywood & Lumber Rack

ShopNotes No. 20 featured an
overhead lumber rack. But
rather than build it as described,
I modifiedits length to include an
extra arm for additional lumber
storage and a platform for hold-
ing plywood, see drawing.
C' To accommodate the extra arm
and platform, I extended the sup-
port bracket from the ceilingjoist
to the floor. Then added a 2x4
base, see detail.
Once each lumber rack was
bolted to the joists, I added two
pieces of 34" plywood to form an
L-shaped platform, see detail.
This allows the plywood to slide
smoothly without catching on the
support brackets or base pieces.
Dan Howett
Cincinnati, Ohio

Quick Tip5 Sead in Your Solutions

To extend my pipe clamps, I cou- I n ShopNotes No. 20, you men- If yw'd Jibe to share your original
ple them to lengths of threaded tioned a technique using lacquer solutions to problems you've faced,
pipe using pipe couplers. To pro- thinner to release plastic lami- send them to: Shq~Notes,Attn.: Shop
tect the threaded ends of the nate from contact cement. I use a Solutions, 2200 Grand Avenue, Des
clamps and pipes when they're not heat gun. It's not as quick, hut it's Moines, IA 50312. (Or if it's easier,
I in use, I cap the ends with rubber certainly not as messy. Just sweep FAX them to us at: 515-282-6141.)
chair leg tips. Leg tips are avail- the heat gun across the laminate We'll gay up to $200 depending on
@ able in various sizes at hardware until the glue heats up enough to the published length. Please include
stores for around 50$ each. allow you to peel off the laminate. a daytime phone number so we can

, ~ .
Michael J. Hoag
Endicott, New York
John Huntington
Uxbridge, Massachusetts
--
a11 you if we have any questions.
&
-
No. 23 ShopNotes
 Buying Lumber *
i

I'm new to woodworking and was I make my final selections based straight and flat, I quickly pass on
wondering if there are any trieks on color match and grain pattern. it and pick up the next board.
to buying hardwood lumber? I'm Although this sounds like a lot As you look over each board,
not sure how much extra to buy of work, it's not. And besides, I take a quick glance at both faces
for a project or what to look for enjoy rummaging through lum- for their general appearance.
Alex Swpieo ber. Who knows what I'll find? Then sight down one edge to see
Beech Grove, Indiana The guys at the lumber store how straight the hoard is. If it's
know I'll go through the entire crooked or bowed move on to the
I think the biggest trick to buy- stack, but they don'tmind. They next board.
ing hardwood is to take your know I'll carefully restack the If the hoard is straight, site
T&ino" the
t;,,,,,,,
"",,"- "" t, .&
.,", "
time. A friend of mine says the lumber after I'm done sorting.
process I use to select hardwood
is like a beauty pageant -except
There's nothing wrong with
being finicky about lumber. It'll
down its length along one face to
check for cup or twist. If the
board is flat, then check the gen-
through a stack the contestants are pieces of lum- pay off in the long run - you'll eral appearance of the color and
'?-lmber ber. For the ~reliminarvround. see it inyour finished project. the grain. If they're both reason-
Pay o f f in the each piece is quickly judged for ably good, set the board aside for
long run. color, grain, and lack of warp, see PRELlMlNARr ROUND later consideration.
photos below. The best of these As yon begin to make your way
are set aside as semifinalists. through a stack of lumber, it's not SEMIFINALISTS
Then the semifinalists are necessary for you to spend alot of Now you can begin to narrow
down the field. As you shuffle
looked over carefully. Here, each time looking over each board. A
piece is scrutinized for sapwood, quick glance at each face and through your good stack, pay C
knots, stain, checks, snipe, and edge is all it takes. particular attention to sapwood
chipout, see photos on opposite CROOK & WARP. The first two and take any hoards with sap-
page. This helps brings the board things I judge a board for are wood out of the running.
count down even further. Finally, crook and warp. If a hoard isn't This can he a challenge, though,

rake your time to b

carefully sort for
the boards with
the best color
match, especially
when sorting
through cherry. Once~~~&v~BbowtWt~~ento
h b e f you'if actuaNy ne?ed, check the
Lumber with wild b st& for b w d s cofll~flkrgs a p w .
grain tends to be Whfm smtng #nw@ stack, a&
yoclr
harder to work
with and more dif-
3 sot? cafe&& tor knofs, stsin, checks,
snip?,&and chipout
ficult to finish than Aiter the fidd hes bi%wmrm&, am-
lumber with Awf9 Psch boafd to @teothers and Wcl
straight grain. .se w+th the besf cotor match.
if yw sti# have irlum turntier tfian yau'li
Lumber with a b
bow or cup should
5 M?&, W&@ ~lsti2CkC%M-8
bcrerds with me stmiightest grain.
libf~ the
be avoided - un-
less a flat section
of the board has a I the bomd h r a p wirA a Kanber scafe to
perfect grain or
color match.

30 ShopNotes No. 23
 *when sorting through freshly
nnlled lumber (such as cherry,
walnut, and ash) -it's often dif-
ficult to distinguish sapwood
from heartwood. So take the time
to carefully inspect each board.
As you sort for sapwood, it's
also a good time to look for knots,
stains, checks, snipe, and chipout.
Compare each board t o the others Appearance. When sorting through time you need to spend to eliminate
and keep those that look the best. a stack of lumber, a quick glance at any boards with sapwood (left),
both sides of each boardis all the knots (center), or stain (right).
FINALISTS
Now comes the hard part. Deeid-
- -
incz on which boards eo to the
shop. Here, it might only come
down to knowing how many
board feet of lumber your project
calls for and figuring out which
boards total up to that amount
(for more this see box below).
Note: Whenever I buy lumber
for a project, I always get 15%to Physical Defects. Lumber wrth physi- _
(right) can L -. ed. But If there are
20% more than what the project cal defects such as checking (left), other boards to pick from, l'il gener-
calls for. The extra wood allows planer sn~pe(center), and chipout ally pass on those with these defects.
me to do a couple of things.
First it provides room for match the rest of the project. Those with the best color match
1 waste and an occasional mistake. If you have more lumber in are my first picks. If I still have
And second, it gives me more front of you than needed, com- too much lumber, I select the
freedom as I'm building a project pare the color and grain patterns boards with the straightest grain
to sort out pieces that don't of each board one more time. and head for the cash register.

A lumber scale is similar to a slide the scale that corresponds to the

-
d e except there are no moving
park. The M o m t i o n needed to de-
termine board footage is imprinted
on the scale. You don't need a calcu-
lator, apencil, or a piece of paper. All
you need is t o know how to read it.
One end of a lumber scale has a
reference point that all readings are
taken from. On most, three gradu-
ated scales m e imprinted on each
side. These six scales allow you to
measure the board footage of the six
most cornman lengths of 4/4 lumber,
To use a lumber scale. iust lav it
board's length, When measuring %
iurnber, just doublethereackg. And
if vou're measurine a board there's
noVscalefor, doub1gthe length of the
board, usethe appropriate scale, and
then divide the reading in half.
The lumber scale 1%e ($35) has
halfboard feet increments,seephoto
at right. When taking a reading, I
round up (or down) to the nearest
quarter board foot. And according to
the National Hardwood Association, Lumber Scale.A lumber scale allows
if a board is tapered, lay the scale you to quicWy figure board footage. For
across it at one third the &distance your nearest dealer call the Conway-

d across tbe width ofa boar2 and read

8
from the widest end. Cleveland Corpofation(61WWO56).

No. 23 ShopNotes 31
 Scenes from the Shop

- ing apalm-grip randdddd -rbit s r can ... A This shop-made blade storage cabinet organizes I
challenge. Our team of woodworkers tests seven mod- your saw blades and keeps them right at hand. At the
els and offers suggestions on what to look for. same time, it protects the bladesfrom being darnagpd

. - I . .
.. .
.
4
b!'.~:<s;.:. ..,.-

A Let the chtps fly. Spend a n enjoy- Its simple design allows you to com-
, able afternoon in the shop turning this plete it with just two basic tools - a
sturdy carver's mallet on your lathe. spindle gouge and a parting tool.