Dark Side of Fragrances

Dark Side of Fragrances
Glen O. Brechbill
FRAGRANCE BOOKS INC.
www.perfumerbook.com
New Jersey - USA
2007
Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

II Glen O. Brechbill
To my parents whose
faith in my work & abilities
made this
manuscript possible
DARK SIDE OF FRAGRANCES
This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in
any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case
of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.
Designed by Glen O. Brechbill
Library of Congress
Brechbill, Glen O.
Dark Side of Fragrances / Glen O. Brechbill
P. cm. 317 pgs.
1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the
understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals.
4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Twenty one thousand fragrances. 8. Science.
9. Creativity. I. Title.
20071027
Certificate Registry # TXu 1-593-092
Copyright 2007 by Glen O. Brechbill
All Rights Reserved
PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
First Edition

DARK SIDE OF FRAGRANCES III
About the Book
My book titled the "Dark Side of Fragrances" encompasses an entirely different side of the industry. This side
is neither glamorous nor well understood. Issues such as MSC, asthma and cancer are serious, and the cause
of the maladies has been linked to the use of cosmetic products and fragrances.
The enclosed articles share one thing in common, and that is they have been well written and researched. News
articles on the subject are few since its not part of the business that is enchanting. My book helps to bring out
the dark side of the business, and the issues that surround the controversy. Fragrances appear in almost every
cosmetic product in use today to disguise unpleasant base odors. It's hard to avoid them. The fragrance indus-
try makes money by selling scents.
The IFRA organization was created by the perfume industry, whos aim is to regulate the use of essential oils.
They are folks with good intentions, but are lackeys. Prior to modern chemistry cosmetic products were fra-
granced predominately with essential oils. Health problems became more prevalent in the twentieth century
when petroleum became the source of the ingredients. It's O.K. to ban Linalool and Iso Eugenol, but Di Ethyl
Phthalate and Benzyl Salicylate are perfectly fine. Who benefits if the essential oil industry goes out of busi-
ness? Who can afford the massive regulatory nightmare created by an industry pushing the use of synthetics?
Givaudan Fragrance Corporation ( IFRA ) - International Fragrance Association
International Flavors & Fragrances
Firmenich Inc.
Symrise
Takasago International

IV GLEN O. BRECHBILL
Index
Name of Article Pages
Copyright II
About the Book III
Index IV - X
Magazine Ads - Do They Have to Smell 11 - 12
Fragrance & Cancer 13 - 15
Is Perfume Sweet Smelling Poison 16 - 18
Bottle Lawsuit 19 - 20
Getting Ill & Fragrances 21 - 23
Cosmetic Chemistry 24 - 26
A Perfumer Who Believes MSC Sufferers are Fakes 27 - 31
Perfume & Allergy 32 - 33
Health Risks Associated with Using Perfume 34 - 36
Infertility Concerns 37 - 38
Think Twice - Before Giving Fragrance as a Gift 39 - 41
Essential Oil - Diluting or Cutting 42 - 46
An Obsessed Perfumer 47 - 48

DARK SIDE OF FRAGRANCES V
Phthalates 49 - 50
Breast Cancer 51 - 52
Soap 53 - 54
Beauty & Its Price 55 - 58
Its the Beauty Industries Ugly Secret 59 - 61
Perfume Peddling 62 - 64
IFRA 65 - 68
Sensitive to Perfume 69 - 70
Cleaning the Air of Scents 71 - 72
Offbeat Scents 73 - 74
Springtime 75 - 76
Sweat 77 - 79
Smells & Hell 80 - 82
Cosmetics & Cow Madness 83 - 84
Fine Fragrance Marketing 85 - 86
Sensitive Chemicals 87 - 88
Pirates & Scent 89 - 90
Ash Tray Fragrance 91 - 92
Allergens & Label 93 - 94
Copying Fragrance 95 - 96
Infringement of Patents 97
Cosmetic Ingredients 98 - 99

VI GLEN O. BRECHBILL
Dangers of Candles & Fires 100
Chanels Experience with Escorts 101 - 102
Complex Ingredients 103 - 105
George Bush & Fragrance 106 - 108
Perfume and Danger Sniffing it 109 - 110
Shampoo & its Goo 111 - 113
Dangerous Aerosols 114 - 115
Household Fragrances & Environmental Dangers 116 - 117
Nosey Women 118 - 119
Fragrances 120 - 121
Lost of Smell Due to Age 122 - 123
MCS & The Fragrant Chemicals 124 - 126
Opium - The Fragrance 127 - 129
Ethics & The Use of Rare Plants 130 - 140
Celebrities Smell the Profits 141 - 142
Store Makeup & Bacteria 143 - 144
Shampoo & its Safety 145 - 146
Rich Stink with Wealth, Trump 147 - 148
Skin & Botanicals 149 - 150
Making Fragrances 151
Company Closes its Doors 152 - 153
Flowers to Iraq 154 - 155

DARK SIDE OF FRAGRANCES VII
Marketing & Ads 156 - 157
Foul Body Odors 158 - 159
Toxic Shampoos Filled With Danger 160 - 161
Multiple Chemical Sensitivity - All About 162 - 163
Celebrity Fragrances Stink 164 - 165
The Doom of Beauty 166 - 168
Air & Trouble 169 - 171
Toxicity of Scent 172 - 173
Stars & their Fragrances 174 - 175
Flowers & Peace 176
Ill Effects to Health 177 - 178
City Employee Sues 179 - 180
Personal Care Product Use & its Dangers 181 - 183
Does Musk in Fragrance Weaken the Body? 184
Beauty & Phthalates 185 - 187
Another Celebrity Scent 188 - 190
Do Cosmetics Cause Infertility Problems? 191 - 193
Cosmetic Dangers 194 - 195
Fabric Softener Dangers 196 - 197
A Horse Scent 198
Debating Chemicals 199 - 201
DJ Wins Lawsuit 202

VIII GLEN O. BRECHBILL
Sniffing at Problems 203 - 205
Strong Fragrance Can Send People Reeling 206 - 207
Fragrance Decline 208 - 210
Stinking Healthcare 211 - 214
Study Says Bad Smells Can Cause Accidents 215 - 216
Synthetics Harm Marine Life 217 - 218
Sex & Smells 219
Sex Bias 220 - 221
Graduating 222
Perfume Trade Gutting the Bois De Rose Forest 223 - 224
Fragrance & Multiple Chemical Sensitivity 225
Cologne & Smelling Naturally 226 - 227
Cocoa by Chanel 228
Cocaine & Chanel 229 - 231
Celebrity Scents 232
Phthalate Dangers 233 - 234
Remaking Cosmetics 235 - 236
Wasting Money on Expensive Perfumes 237 - 238
Crashes & Air Freshners 239 - 240
Bathrooms Toxicity 241 - 244
New Cars & Their Smells 245
Sex & Fragrance 246

DARK SIDE OF FRAGRANCES IX
Trademarking Strawberries 247
Branding 248 - 249
Fall Sports & Their Smells 250 - 251
Fragrant City 252 - 254
Deoderants & Cancer 255 - 256
Phthalates & Their Dangers 257 - 259
Smell of Panic a Natural High 260
Fake Fragrance Problem 261 - 262
Criticism of Fragrance 263 - 264
Breast Cancer & DEP 265 - 266
Cleaner Air without Fragrance 267 - 268
Phone & Smells 269
Stealing Rare Plants 270 - 272
Axe & its Smells 273 - 274
Perfume Allergy 275
Ban Fragrance in School 276 - 277
Softheads & Expensive Perfume 278 - 279
Are Fragrance Compositions Copyrightable? 280 - 281
Diddy in Trouble Over Copright? 282
Air Fresheners Go Easy 283 - 284
Dangers of Makeup 285 - 287
Avoiding Fragrances 288 - 289

X GLEN O. BRECHBILL
Boycotting 40th Amendment 290 - 291
40th Amendment ( IFRA ) 292
IFRA & Synthetics 293 - 294
IFRA & Cropwatch 295 - 296
IFRA & Givaudan Concerns 297 - 298
Citrus Ingredients Gone? 299 - 300
Givaudan Restructures Fragrance Industry ( IFRA ) 301 - 302
Cosmetic Dangers 303 - 304
Makeups Toxics 305 - 306
Fake Fragrances 307 - 308
Floris of London & its Fragrance Auction 309
DNA Perfume Are You Stupid! 310 - 311
Air Freshners Toxicity 312 - 315
Chemical Dangers 316 - 317

DARK SIDE OF FRAGRANCES 11
Magazine Ads -
Do They Have to Smell?
DECEMBER 6, 1989
that many people can't stand the smell of their mag- Testimony Behind a Mask
O N THE THEORY
azines and credit-card bills, a proposal has been advanced in New
York State to bar fragrance strips from periodicals and mailings unless Senator Connor attracted wide
the samples are sealed. notice when he mentioned his bill
in a letter to the Dear Abby column.
''The only hazard New Yorkers should face when opening a maga-
zine is a paper cut, not a migraine headache or severe asthmatic reac- At yesterday's hearing, Richard
tion,'' said State Senator Martin Connor, who has introduced a bill that Zachary, who suffers from hyper-
would require smell-proof sealants. sensitivity, appeared in an air mask.
''An individual should have the
The bill was debated yesterday in Manhattan by chemically sensi- right to decide whether he or she
tive supporters (one of whom testified through an air mask) and eco- wants to sample a chemical prod-
nomically sensitive opponents, representing cosmetics makers and pro- uct,'' he said, on behalf of a New
moters with nationwide operations. Jersey-based group called the
National Center for Environmental
No one testified from the Magazine Publishers of America, a New Health Strategies.
York-based association that represents 850 publications. But its senior
vice president, David B. Lee, said after the hearing, ''I'm not sure we ''It's almost ludicrous to think of
heard anything that would be regarded as specific evidence that maga- an aspirin sample reaching our
zines are causing a health problem.'' blood stream without our knowing
about it,'' Mr. Zachary said, ''yet
''If it now becomes the job of the state to protect citizens from odor, that is what happens with the mole-
where does it stop?'' Mr. Lee asked. cules from fragrance samples.''
Senator Connor, a Democrat who represents parts of Brooklyn, Senator Connor's bill may be
Manhattan and Staten Island, became aware of the potency of fra- amended as a result of yesterday's
grances last year when his communications director, Amy Solomon, hearing, and industry representa-
was felled on an Albany-bound train by a woman's magazine with per- tives evidently hope that the bill
fume-scented advertising inserts. will be amended out of existence.
''We do not believe that samples
''By Poughkeepsie, I had a raging migraine headache,'' she recalled. cause significant public health
risks,'' said Michael Petrina, a vice

12 GLEN O. BRECHBILL
president of the 260-member

Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance
Association.
''Some small segment of the

population will react adversely to
every chemical that exists,'' he said,
''if the law required everything that
might cause such a reaction to be
sealed, everything would have to be
sealed.''
A vice president of Webcraft

Technologies Inc. of North
Brunswick, N.J. (''one of the
world's leading producers of fra-
grance and cosmetic sample
strips''), said it was up to readers
whether the aroma-bearing micro-
capsules were released. Typically,
this is done by lifting a paper flap
that covers the strip.
The Webcraft executive,

George Lane, said, ''Only through
active and purposeful involvement
will the fragrance sample release
the true fragrance rendition.''

Fragrance & Cancer
JUNE, 1995
LESBIANS AND WOMEN TODAY, MY LIFE HAS BEEN women and Lesbians there com-
L IKE MANY OTHER
DEVASTATED BY MAN-MADE POLLUTION. First by CFIDS (Chronic
Fatigue Immune Dysfunction Syndrome) beginning fourteen years ago,
plaining about "all the rules!" and
saying "how PC!" about the "no
then MCS (Multiple Chemical Sensitivities) a few years later, and then fragrances" request. It would be
cancer diagnosed in January 1993. I know all three illnesses were easier for them to stop using scent-
caused by an accumulation of the toxic chemicals and radiation I've ed products than it is for those of us
been exposed to in my life, every exposure coming from something with MCS to be so limited and
considered at the time as a normal part of everyday life in twentieth cen- physically harmed by their pres-
tury industrial patriarchy. ence, and they would also be pro-
tecting themselves from having
Perfume MCS in the future.
Now the smell of perfume, of clothes washed in scented detergent Lots of Lesbians and women
and fabric softener, and of all scented products, makes me feel horribly are at immediate risk from scents.
sick. An allergy? A strange quirk of my illness? No, there are poison- For those with asthma, or scent-
ous chemicals in those scents, and I'm no longer healthy enough to cope triggered seizures, or severe MCS
with the toxins, so my body is warning me to keep away from them. But or strong allergies, perfume expo-
there's no way to keep away because these products are considered a sure at an event could stress an
normal part of everyday life, and almost everyone uses them. Even at overburdened respiratory, nervous
home I'm made sicker by the fabric softener chemicals venting from or immune system enough to cause
neighbors' dryers, from people coming to the door wearing scents, and death within fifteen minutes or so.
from mail arriving stinking of perfume from all the perfumed places it's Lesbians and women undergoing
been. Going out is much worse, so I do only necessary errands. Some chemotherapy often become chem-
day, like many others with MCS, I may not be able to go out at all. ically sensitive during treatment
Advertisement because their bodies are being
loaded with toxic chemicals.
It's hard having almost no social life just when I most need it, and Cancer is now epidemic, and unless
sometimes I take the chance of going to a women's event or a bookstore. you already know who has it in
Imagine how I feel when even at places and events that organizers have your community, you might be
advertised as "no fragrances please" there is so much toxic scent in the sadly surprised at how many
air that I have to leave. And even as I'm wondering if this is the last Lesbians and women at events you
women's event I'll ever experience, it hurts overhearing perfumed attend either have cancer or are in
remission and trying to prevent a safe. The risk is even higher when containing pesticides, hormones,
recurrence. Also sadly, if you're not armpits have been shaved and the and other artificial additives.
already one of us, you may yet be. deodorant is applied to broken skin.
Organizers who try to make their Over 4,000 chemicals are used
events fragrance-free are support- Of the many books and articles in today's fragrances, and 95% of
ing health, life, and accessibility to I've read about healing and prevent- those chemicals are made from
community for all of us and their ing cancer. not one mentions the petroleum. Toluene was found in
efforts shouldn't be undermined by dangers of using scented products. every fragrance sample collected
resistance and complaints. Unlike Many Lesbians and women who by the U.S. Environmental
most other kinds of pollution, this are making huge changes in their Protection Agency for a 1991
is one kind that we can easily stop lives to heal from cancer are still report. Toluene has been proven to
as individuals. Instead it seems to using perfumed products for per- cause cancer, asthma, birth defects,
be increasing, and most buyers and sonal care, housecleaning, and and nervous system damage, and is
users of scented products are laundry because they don't have designated as hazardous waste.
females, who are especially target- information about the risks Some other toxic chemicals found
ed by advertisers. involved. Even when we don't use in fragrances are ethanol, benzene
those products ourselves, friends derivatives, acetone, formaldehyde,
I originally wrote the second and other members of our commu- methylene chloride, and limonene.
half of this article for the newsletter nities are exposing us to all the
of the Women's Cancer Resource toxic chemicals they use, including The EPA found chloroform as
Center in Berkeley, California, at Lesbian and women's events, well in fabric softeners.(1)
where I sometimes go to support without realizing how dangerous Paradichlorobenzene, used in
group meetings. Several times I've those perfume chemicals are. For mothballs and in many "air freshen-
had to leave a meeting because a information about how the perfume ers," is also used in pesticides,
new member came wearing per- industry is trying to prevent public where it is required by law to be
fume. In every case the woman education about the toxins in scents listed as an active ingredient. The
wearing it was apologetic, and did- in order to protect their enormous law does not require it to be listed
n't realize that the perfume was profits, read environmental health on deodorizer labels.(2) Many fra-
dangerous to herself as well as to newsletters like the two listed grance chemicals are known to
me. below. cause cancer, biological mutation,
reproduction problems, acute toxic-
Cancer-causing chemicals have Scented Products Pose Health ity, central nervous disorders, asth-
been found in fragrances, and there Risk ma, and MCS.(3)
are probably many ways we don't
know about yet that scented prod- Because of my experience with What we smell from petroleum-
ucts put us at higher risk for cancer. MCS and what I've learned about based perfumes are volatile chemi-
A few years ago a Lesbian wrote in fragrance chemicals, I know that cals, which travel through the air
Lesbian Connection suggesting that avoiding perfumed products as and stick to our hair, skin, and
using underarm deodorant might much as possible is an important clothes; drift into our eyes and
increase our risk of breast cancer. part of my effort to recover from breathing passages; move into our
Putting toxic chemicals on sensi- cancer. Avoiding toxic scented lungs, bloodstreams and nervous
tive skin where major lymph glands products is just as important in can- systems. If you smell it, the chemi-
exist close to breast tissue can't be cer prevention as avoiding foods cal molecules are entering your
body. No agency regulates the fra- going to be with someone who's ill, have put on. What may seem a mild
grance industry, and there is no because toxic fumes lingering on fragrance to you can be excruciat-
public education about the health your clothes and body can be espe- ingly toxic to someone with MCS.
risk present in the many products cially dangerous to them. It's also Even natural fragrances can make
that contain chemical scents. best to avoid burning synthetic some people with MCS sicker,
logs, plastic, cardboard, magazines, because of the damage previously
Not Just in a Perfume Bottle newspapers, or other trash in fire- done to our bodies by toxic chemi-
places or wood-burning stoves. cals. For that reason it's best to
Besides being in perfumes and (Even burning clean dry wood avoid any scented products at all
colognes, toxic chemical scents are increases pollution, but it's the near anyone with MCS, or at any
also present in most laundry deter- safest choice if you don't have event or place where it's requested
gents, fabric softeners, anti-cling access to gas or electric heating.) that scented products not be worn.
drier sheets, dishwashing liquids, Everything you do to protect your-
disinfectants, "air fresheners self from toxic exposure also cre- (1) Informational leaflets by Julia
/deodorizers," incense, soaps, ates a healthier environment for Kendall, Citizens for a Toxic-Free
shampoos, hair mousse and condi- others and makes it possible for you Marin. Her sources were:
tioners, hair spray, hair processing to be near people with MCS and Neurotoxins: At Home and the
chemicals, deodorants, cosmetics, other illnesses without making Workplace (Report 99-827 by the
suntan/sunscreen lotions, after- them sicker. Committee on Science &
shaves, analgesic creams, and lip Technology, U.S. House of
balms. Even products marked For those of us with MCS, res- Representatives, Sept. 16, 1986),
"unscented" often are falsely piratory illness, or weakened and Lance Wallace, U.S.
labelled and actually contain toxic immune systems, exposure to Environmental Protection Agency,
fragrances. Advertisements for scented products can cause exhaus- (703) 349-8970.
most of these products are especial- tion, weakness, "hay fever" symp-
ly directed to women, and because toms, dizziness, difficulty concen- (2) The Delicate Balance, Vol. IV,
we're experiencing an epidemic of trating, headaches, rashes, swollen Nos. 3-4, p. 19.
cancer and other illnesses linked to lymph glands, muscle aches and
toxins, it's important for us to be spasms, heart palpitations, nausea, 3) Julia Kendall, citing a 1988
informed and careful consumers. stomach cramps, vomiting, asthma study by the U.S. House
Unscented, safer products are avail- attacks (inability to breathe), neuro- Subcommittee on Business
able for personal care, laundry, and motor dysfunction, seizures, and/or Opportunities, chaired by Ron
cleaning. (Check the resource list loss of consciousness. Every expo- Wyden (DOR) and the National
below.) sure also puts us at risk of becom- Institute of Occupational Safety
ing permanently sicker. and Health.
Other toxic products to avoid
are all pesticides and herbicides, Someone with MCS can
insect repellant, flea powder or become very sick from the smell of
spray, flea bombs, mothballs, nail fabric softener in your clothes, the
polish and remover, artificial nail smell of "air freshener" clinging to
products, and dry-cleaned clothes. your clothes from your home or car,
Avoid pumping your own gasoline or from any other scented product
at a service station when you are you use, not only be perfume you
Is Perfume Sweet Smelling Poison?
1997 - PUBLICATION DATE NOT KNOWN
HE INFORMATION PROVIDED IN THIS DOCUMENT IS INTENDED TO INTRO- zines carry "perfume strip" adver-
T DUCE THE READER to human health issues related to the widespread
use of fragrance products.
tisements which waft their odor
into the noses of unsuspecting read-
ers. Some companies use scented
What Your Nose Can't Tell You About the stationary for their mass mailings.
Dangers of Perfume Nobody seems to think that this use
of fragrances is anything by pleas-
Culturally, Americans are enamored with fragrances, unlike our ant and harmless.
European counterparts. Not only are many of the products we use scent-
ed, but many products also have a number of scents from which to The problem is that fragrance
choose. Thus, not only can you buy a product, but you can choose products are not necessarily harm-
between 'spring fresh,' 'mountain fresh,' or 'lemon scented' versions of less, and many can cause some very
the product. unpleasant effects.
Americans also love to wear fragrances. This love of fragrance has Few people realize that there
allowed advertisers to reach their audience by linking fragrance with a are at least 5,000 different chemi-
desired quality such as 'sexiness,' or 'freshness,' or 'innocence.' This cals used by the fragrance industry
message is so pervasive that many men and women feel it necessary to in the manufacture of fragrance
wear a fragrance in order to be desirable or feel sexy. products. Nor do they realize that a
fragrance product such as perfume
Advertisers and marketers also know that there is a very powerful may contain as many as 600 indi-
connection between scent and memory, as well as scent and emotion, vidual chemical ingredients.
and they use this frequently in their promotions. The result is that fra-
grance is considered a 'normal' component of our everyday lives. Of the 5,000 different chemi-
cals used in fragrance products, less
Many consumer products contain fragrances. These products than 20% have been tested and
include personal products (i.e. perfumes/colognes, shampoos, condi- reported as toxic. Many of those
tioners, hairspray, shaving cream, make-up, baby care products, deodor- chemicals that have been tested are
ants, soap, feminine products, etc.), and household products (i.e. clean- regulated by the federal govern-
ers, air fresheners, bleach, laundry detergent, fabric softeners, etc.). ment as hazardous materials. The
remaining chemicals have not been
Perfumes make their way into our mailboxes as well. Many maga- toxicity tested, so the health effects

and regulatory potential are ucts can cause skin sensitivity, Prozac, Valium, Elavil, etc.).
unknown. rashes, and dermatitis. In fact, skin
sensitivity is one of the best known Other studies have shown that
Of the 150 highest volume side effects of fragrances. fragrances can alter mood and alle-
chemicals used in fragrance prod- viate anxiety and stress. Mood,
ucts, more than 100 can be identi- Fragrances have also been stud- anxiety and stress are properties
fied in the air of a room using ied for their effect on people with that are modulated by natural
sophisticated testing techniques. chronic lung disease, particularly chemicals in the brain. That means
Most of these 100 chemicals are asthma. Study results differ, but that in order for those properties to
known to be toxic. some data suggests that as many as change, a chemical change has to
75% of known asthmatics (i.e. take place. The studies indicate that
Technically, the Food and Drug approximately 9 million people in the fragrance chemicals cause that
Administration oversees fragrances the U.S. alone) have asthma attacks chemical change to occur in the
under the Food, Drug, and that are triggered by perfumes. brain.
Cosmetic act. Although the FDA
has jurisdiction, they actually Finally, a number of studies Fragrance chemicals can enter
administer very little control over have been conducted to show how the body through inhalation and
fragrance products, allowing the fragrance affects the brain. Because ingestion through the nose and
fragrance industry to police itself. of the strong connection between mouth, and absorption through the
As a result, only about 16% of cos- scent and memory, we know that skin. Once in the body they are
metic products on the market have fragrance products can cross the absorbed into the bloodstream and
been tested for toxicity. Thus, the blood brain barrier. This is impor- transported throughout the body.
FDA really knows very little about tant because it means that fragrance Individual sensitivity to the effects
the health effects of fragrance prod- chemicals have the potential to of fragrance chemicals vary widely
ucts because they do not require affect, and possibly damage, brain from no effect at all to severe
manufacturers to prove their prod- tissue. This kind of effect is called symptoms.
ucts are safe. It literally requires an 'neurotoxicity.' For example,
act of congress before the FDA can Linalool, the most abundant chemi- Symptoms experienced by
intervene with the fragrance indus- cal in perfume and fragrance prod- some people include:
try to protect public health inter- ucts, is known to cause lethargy,
ests. However, movements to depression, and life threatening res- headache (migraine especially),
increase the documentation of piratory effects. sneezing,
adverse reactions to fragrance prod- watery eyes,
ucts with the FDA hopefully will As an example of how potent sinus problems,
illustrate the need for more strin- fragrance can be in the brain, one anxiety,
gent oversight of the fragrance study conducted in Japan showed nausea,
industry. that the fragrance of citrus was wheezing (especially in asthmat-
more effective in alleviating ics),
Studies show that fragrance depression than were prescription shortness of breath,
chemicals can cause health effects, anti-depressants. This means that inability to concentrate,
primarily at the skin, lungs and the fragrance has psychoactive brain-fog, dizziness,
brain. Many studies have been con- properties, which places it in the convulsions,
ducted to show that fragrance prod- category of psychoactive drugs (i.e. sore throat,

cough, learning disabilities, hyperactive

chest tightness, behavior, and even growth retarda-
hyperactivity (especially in chil- tion and seizures in extreme cases.
dren),
tremor, And even if you think that
fatigue, avoiding fragranced products will
lethargy, and protect your child, evidence shows
drowsiness. that fragrance chemicals can be
stored in the body, showing up in
Some critics argue that people breast milk in the nursing mother.
who are 'sensitive' to fragrances are A frightening prospect indeed!
actually experiencing an anxiety
attack brought on by the memory of Even though there are outward
one bad experience upon the real- symptoms that can be evident, there
ization that they have been exposed may also be symptoms that we can
to a fragrance. Interestingly, many not see. We know that many chem-
sensitive people find that different icals can cause birth defects (both
fragrances consistently cause dif- subtle, like learning disabilities,
ferent arrays of symptoms, with and overt, like limb deformities) or
some fragrances causing no ill make changes in DNA, but it is
effects at all. This experience often difficult, if not impossible, to
would tend to discount the anxiety link those effects to a given expo-
attack theory. sure.
Further, odor isn't the cause of The effects of many fragrance

symptoms. Even pleasant (an not chemicals on health is still largely
necessarily strong) smelling prod- unknown. The fact that different
ucts, and products whose concen- fragrances cause different symp-
tration is too low to be smelled, can toms (or no symptoms at all) may
cause symptoms, while some nox- indicate that some chemicals are
ious smelling products may not more toxic than others. But until all
even elicit a response at all. chemicals have been tested, we
can't know which products are
Children are even more suscep- harmful, and which are not. Until
tible than adults to the effects of the time that all chemicals have
fragrance chemicals, yet fragrances been tested and the harmful one
are added to nearly every baby removed from production process-
product on the market. A parent es, it is prudent to avoid fragranced
who wears perfume or uses scented products as much as possible.
products may well be poisoning the
air their children breathe. Exposure
to fragrances may result in the child
having difficulty concentrating,

Bottle Lawsuit
MAY 11, 1999
assertion that the bottles were iden-

T HEY COULD HAVE AVOIDED ALL OF THIS BY TEAMING UP AND CALLING
IT ETERNAL ROMANCE. tical was the equivalent of saying
different makes of cars look alike.
Instead, Calvin Klein, the designer, sued his rival, Ralph Lauren, ''The more educated you are, obvi-
over perfume well, actually the bottles. ously, you can tell the difference
between a Volkswagen and a
Both sides agree that their fragrances smell nothing alike, but Calvin Cadillac.''
Klein, maker of Eternity, is miffed at Ralph Lauren, which introduced
Romance last year. Calvin Klein contended the bottle for the new per- Both bottles are rectangular and
fume looked suspiciously like Eternity's. with silver caps and curved bottles.
The Eternity bottle, tall and thin
A Federal judge, though, has ruled that consumers are not likely to with a curved T-shape cap, has an
be confused by the packaging and that surveys Calvin Klein used to bol- almost hourglass appearance. The
ster its case were flawed and, thus, ineffective. He denied the prelimi- Romance bottle is short and squat,
nary injunction Calvin Klein sought in the case, which is pending. with a flat, square cap.
Calvin Klein's fragrance unit, the Calvin Klein Cosmetics Company, ''Apart from the dissimilarity of
and one of its licensees, Conopco Inc., is suing the Polo Ralph Lauren the two bottles,'' the judge said in
Corporation and L'Oreal S.A.'s Cosmair Inc., a Ralph Lauren licensee. his ruling, ''the likelihood of con-
sumer confusion is also minimized
In its motion for an injunction, Calvin Klein had sought to stop by the differing marking tech-
Ralph Lauren from selling or advertising Romance, saying that the bot- niques'' on the packaging and the
tle and product packaging infringe its trademark. Federal District Judge prominent ''Romance'' name on the
John E. Sprizzo in New York, rejected the contention Friday. bottle cap and box of the Ralph
Lauren product.
Representatives for Calvin Klein's cosmetics unit declined to com-
ment yesterday. The company issued a statement saying simply that the While Calvin Klein maintains
preliminary injunction had been denied and that no trial date had been that it had developed a distinctive
set. bottle for its $180-an-ounce per-
fume, similar packaging apparently
Ethan Horwitz, a lawyer for Ralph Lauren, said the decision ''comes has been around for, well, eternity.
down on every point our way.'' Mr. Horwitz added that Calvin Klein's
In the ruling denying the

injunction, the judge said that the
Eternity perfume bottle's trademark
infringement argument was ''weak
because, considered as a whole, it is
quite similar to perfume bottles
used by past and present fragrance
designers.''
Getting Ill & Fragrances
JANUARY, 2000 PUBLICATION DATE NOT KNOWN
Are Fragrances Safe?

P ERFUME IS ALSO KNOWN AS FRAGRANCE OR SCENT AND HAS BEEN USED
DOWN THE AGES IN RELIGIOUS RITUALS,
unpleasant odours.
as aphrodisiacs and to mask
Little is known about the
impact fragrances have on human
Is there a connection between your chronic medical condition and Allergy, health. There are individuals in the
Food Sensitivity, Chemical sensitivity. community who are made ill as a
result of exposure to fragrances.
Fragrance Allergy/Sensitivity Cases of anaphylaxis or allergic
shock have been observed follow-
In the past fragrances were extracted from plants and natural ing fragrance exposure. Lesser
sources. In the late 1800s the first synthetic fragrances were introduced symptoms such as hay fever or
and since then have been used extensively to mimic fragrances from rhinitis are reported. Some studies
nature. There are currently around three thousand chemicals used in the have shown that fragrances are res-
manufacture of fragrances. Many of these are petrochemical deriva- piratory irritants and many asth-
tives. Chemicals used to manufacture fragrances are also used to pro- matics react adversely to them.
duce flavourings. Studies also indicate that fra-
grances may actually cause asthma.
There are thousands of body fragrances on the market today. Individuals who are chemically
Fragrances are also found in a large number of perfumed consumer sensitive can become disabled
products. These include personal care products, air fresheners, laundry when exposed to fragrances and
products, detergents, paper tissue products, essential oils, fragranced cannot take part in normal activi-
candles and incense. ties. They report symptoms such as
migraine, nausea, dizziness,
Antibacterial products added to air conditioning systems to reduce fatigue, shortness of breath, diffi-
the risk of legionella or other diseases that can be circulated via air con- culty concentrating and allergy-like
ditioning. Fragrances are present in public areas from air fresheners and symptoms. Studies show that some
commercial cleaning products used on public transport, in public build- 15- 30% of the population report
ings and health care facilities. sensitivity to chemicals while 4-
6% report that chemicals have a
Fragrances are now more the norm than the exception. It is difficult major impact on their quality of
to find products, including food, pharmaceuticals and tobacco products life. More than 80% of those sen-
that are not fragranced or flavoured. sitive to chemicals claimed that
exposure to fragrances is trouble- agents. Other ingredients eg phtha- absorbed via the olfactory bulb in
some (Ashford, N and Miller, C lates are endocrine disruptors that the nose directly into the brain.
1998J. are linked to birth defects. There is also an assumption that
Parabens used as preservatives in fragrance only produces a sense of
The fragrance industry claims underarm deodorants and other per- odour. However, fragrance can
that chemicals used in fragrances sonal care products have been stimulate the olfactory and trigemi-
are used at low concentrations. Ill linked to breast cancer (www ewq nal nerves causing irritation. In
health is blamed because they are orq/reports skindeep/). turn this results in sensations such
more noticeable than other chemi- as stinging, burning, prickling and
cals. The industry's view is that Secret Ingredients tingling. This process is referred to
people who claim they react to fra- as 'sensory irritation' and can result
grances suffer from psychological The constituents of a fragrance in neurogenic inflammation.
problems. This view does not take do not have to be disclosed on
into account that fragrance chemi- labels. A formula or composition is Many individuals with pre-
cals are part of complex mixtures of protected by secrecy laws. All that existing nasal allergy such as hay
very toxic substances. These same has to be labelled is the term 'fra- fever seem to react more strongly to
chemicals are present in a large grance'. Individuals who are aller- chemical irritants. In the vast
number of frequently used con- gic or chemically sensitive to spe- majority of people, exposure to
sumer products contributing to an cific compounds do not have the chemicals tends to cause irritation
additive effect. right to know what is in a product rather than allergy. Irritation is less
in order to avoid unnecessary expo- responsive to treatment than aller-
A study by the US EPA identi- sure. In some cases products gy, avoidance of chemicals is the
fied volatile organic compounds labeled 'unperfumed' are perfumed, only effective solution to the prob-
emitted by fragranced products that while other products labeled lem.
contribute to indoor air pollution 'unperfumed' on closer scrutiny of
and sick building syndrome. These the label contain 'masking fra- Child Health
compounds were found to be toxic grance'.
and carcinogenic (Wallace, L et ac There is a serious lack of
1995). While some of the com- Extensive research has been research into child environmental
pounds identified occur commonly conducted on skin disorders from health. Children from infancy to
in many fragrances, few fragrance contact with fragrance chemicals. adolescence are in various stages of
products containing them have Dermatologists use 'fragrance mix' development and are more vulnera-
been tested for carcinogenicity. In to test for skin allergy. Fragrance ble to chemical insults than are
the USA, a report by the mix is a collection of eight com- adults. Yet many products aimed at
Environmental Working Group pounds, largely essential oils infants, children and adolescents
entitled "Skin Deep' found that www.dermnetnz.org However, are scented in spite of the lack of
around 89% of the 10,500 ingredi- while most research on fragrances data on fragrances to prove safety.
ents in personal care products have has focused on dermal exposure as A recently initiated biomonitoring
not been evaluated. One in three the primary route of exposure, there program in the USA has discovered
personal care products has at least is rarely any thought given to measurable levels of chemicals in
one ingredient classified as a possi- inhaled exposure and respiratory the human body and breast milk eg
ble carcinogen. One in one hundred testing Some researchers believe phthalates (wwwcdcgov/exposur-
contain probable cancer-causing that fragrance molecules can be ereport). This raises concerns for
the health of breast fed infants and Fibromyalgia like pain

their future health.
Right to Clean Air and a Safe

Environment
The fragrance issue is the same

as the tobacco smoke issue ie the
right to wear fragrances that pollute
the air and damage human health
over the right to clean air and a safe
environment. In the USA there are
many places that post notices ask-
ing people to refrain from wearing
fragrances www.ehnca.org/ehn-
hompg/takheart.htm., e.g. Univer-
sity of Minnesota School of Social
Work.
ASEHA would like to see the

intensity and the life of fragrances
reduced so they are not discernable
any more than an arm's length from
the user. Most importantly that
they degrade in a short space of
time. ASEHA would also like to
see a ban on fragrances as per the
cigarette smoking ban.
Some health problems associ-

ated with fragrance exposure
Anaphylaxis
Allergic Rhinitis
Asthma and other Respiratory irri-

tation
Allergic Contact Dermaitis
Migrane
Cosmetic Chemistry
HE USE OF COSMETICS IS NOT A MODERN PHENOMENON. Ancient Emulsifiers

T Egyptian women used kohl to darken their eyelids, and Cleopatra is
said to have bathed in milk to whiten and soften her skin. More than Many cosmetic products are
3000 years ago Greek women used poisonous lead carbonate to achieve based on emulsions small droplets
a pale complexion, costing some wearers their lives. of oil dispersed in water or small
droplets of water dispersed in oil.
Today, cosmetics are big business. According to the Australian Since oil and water don't mix,
Bureau of Statistics, Australians spent A $ 4.1 billion on cosmetics, per- emulsifiers are added to produce
fumes and toiletries in 1998-99. Cosmetic advertising is now targeting the small droplets and to prevent
a wider audience than ever. Most of us males and females care about our the oil and water phases from sepa-
appearance. rating. Emulsifiers work by chang-
ing the surface tension between the
What is a cosmetic? water and the oil, thus producing a
homogeneous product with an even
The Australian Trade Practices Act 1974 defines a cosmetic product texture.
as a substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with
any external part of the human body' (this includes the mouth and teeth). Preservatives
We use cosmetics to cleanse, perfume, protect and change the appear-
ance of our bodies or to alter its odours. Products that claim to modify Preservatives are added to cos-
a bodily process or prevent, diagnose, cure or alleviate any disease, ail- metics to prevent the growth of
ment or defect are called therapeutics (Box 1, Ingredient labelling). microorganisms (eg, bacteria and
This distinction means that shampoos and deodorants are placed in the fungi), which can spoil the product
category of cosmetics, while anti-dandruff shampoos and antiperspi- and possibly harm the user.
rants are considered to be therapeutics. Preservatives used in cosmetics can
include parabens, benzyl alcohol
What do cosmetics contain? and tetrasodium EDTA (ethylenedi-
aminetetra-acetic acid).
Most cosmetics contain a combination of at least some of the fol-
lowing ingredients: water, emulsifier, preservative, thickener, colour, Thickeners
fragrance and pH stabilisers.
Thickening agents such as
polymers are often added to cos-
metics to change their consistency. bodys natural process of rehydra- of your skin - this is why some lip-
Polymers can be synthetic (eg, tion to return the skin to a normal sticks appear blue or green in the
polyethylene glycol) or derived water level. Humectant moisturis- tube, but turn a deep shade of red
from natural sources (eg, polysac- ers may contain substances like when applied to your lips.
charides). Seaweeds are a common glycerine or alpha hydroxy acids
source of natural polysaccharides (fruit acids such as glycolic acid, Fake tans also change colour on
carrageenans are extracted from red citric acid or lactic acid), which add contact with skin. The active ingre-
algae and alginates from brown water to the top layer of skin. dient in most fake tans is dihydrox-
algae. Cosmetics that are too thick yacetone, a colourless compound
can be diluted with solvents such as Shampoos and soaps clean by that darkens when it reacts with the
water or alcohol. the use of surfactants (surface amino acids in the top layer of skin.
active agents). Surfactant mole- The colour change is permanent,
Fragrances, colours and pH cules have both fat soluble but because skin cells are constant-
stabilisers (lipophilic) and water-soluble ly being shed the tan is usually
(hydrophilic) parts. The lipophilic gone after about a week.
The ingredient list of a cosmet- part of the molecule sticks to oil
ic product might also include chem- and dirt, and the hydrophilic part Some unintended effects of
icals that give a pleasant smell to allows water to then carry away the chemicals found in cosmetics
the product, provide an appealing otherwise water-insoluble grime.
colour, or adjust the pH (the acidi- Washing-up detergents work in the Unfortunately, sometimes the
ty). same way, although it isnt general- ingredients in cosmetics can have
ly advisable to wash your hair with unintended side-effects. For exam-
Some types of cosmetics and dishwashing liquid - they are for- ple, skin allergies (allergic dermati-
their ingredients mulated to remove thick grease tis) to specific ingredients can be a
from plates, not to gently clean problem. Allergies to cosmetic
Moisturisers are generally used your hair! products can be due to chemicals
to treat dry, scaly skin. Our skin such as added fragrances and
becomes dry when water is lost Water solubility preservatives. This can lead to a
from the top layer of dead skin cells skin rash where the product is
faster than moisture can enter it Or the lack thereof is an impor- applied. If you think you may be
from the living layers of skin below tant factor in creating lipstick. allergic to a cosmetic product, it is
(Box 2, Only skin deep?). Lipsticks are generally made by important to determine which
Moisturisers can correct this prob- combining a water-insoluble dye ingredients may be causing the
lem in two ways: by preventing fur- with wax and a non-volatile oil problem. A specialised allergy test,
ther moisture loss (occlusion) and (beeswax with castor oil is a com- called a patch test, may be helpful
by adding substances that increase mon formulation). This results in a in this. Chemicals causing the aller-
the water-holding capacity of the substance that is stiff, but will gy can then be avoided by reading
skin (humectants). Occlusive mois- spread easily on your lips. Because product labels. Other people, while
turisers may contain oils such as its water-insoluble, the lipstick not allergic to a specific ingredient,
isopropyl palmitate, stearyl alcohol wont be dissolved by saliva or by may nevertheless find that a prod-
or light mineral oil. The oils form a the drink youre sipping. Some lip- uct irritates their skin because it
waterproof layer on the skin, reduc- sticks also use dyes which react damages the outer layers - a condi-
ing evaporation and allowing the with the amino acids in the protein tion known as irritant dermatitis.
Exfoliants and skin peels leave are used in a product are helpful
the skin underneath temporarily when putting on your best face.
more vulnerable to sun exposure
because they remove the outermost
protective layer of dead skin cells.
Over-washing of hair or skin with
soaps and detergents can strip the
skins natural protective oily layer,
resulting in dry and scaly skin.
Alternatively, excessive use of
make-up or oily moisturisers can
block pores and aggravate acne.
More serious side effects have

been suggested for certain cosmetic
ingredients. For example, a recent
study was published that linked
breast cancer with deodorants. The
focus of the study was on parabens,
a class of chemicals commonly
used as preservatives in deodorants
and antiperspirants. While parabens
were found in breast cancer tissue,
the study did not establish that they
were the source of the cancer nor
did it identify underarm cosmetics
as the source of the chemicals.
A recent US study found that

many cosmetics and toiletries used
worldwide contained chemicals
that were either known cancer-
causing agents (carcinogens) or
were untested for their effect on
human health. More research into
the safety of cosmetic chemicals is
needed.
In our pursuit of beauty, it is

wise to remember that cosmetics
can be complex combinations of
chemicals. Reading the label and
understanding which ingredients
A Perfumer Who Believes
MSC Sufferers are Fakes
MAY 2, 2000
T 'S
6:30 PM AND THIS OLDER LADY (she just turned 84 years old the rectly, she was wearing perfume. I
I week before) is putting the finishing touches to her attire. Tonight she
is going to City Hall for the monthly Council meeting. She is always
kid you not, and in Halifax, it is
now a crime! Of course, I am sure
looking forward to these monthly dates with her fellow citizens of the that when she got thrown out of the
Nova Scotia Maritime capital: Halifax. She was born in Halifax and building, she stumbled over of a
likes to feel a part of her town. Although she doesn't have much to say few homeless people, sleeping on
during the assembly she is too shy and too proper to interrupt debates - the steps of City Hall in their own
she feels almost like it is her civil obligation to participate in the life of body fluids, reeking of wine and
her town. As some people enjoy dressing to go to the Opera or to go to bad salmon (after all, we are in
a show, she likes to dress for the council meetings. At her age, she does- Nova Scotia!). But it must be fine,
n't go out much anymore, and the occasions to wear a pretty dress, and because these smells are natural.
some of the jewelry offered by her late husband are pretty rare and the
monthly Council meetings are evenings that she treasures. That is until When Shaune MacKinay from
tonight! The Daily News tried to contact
her, the "criminal," obviously over-
In case you live in a cavern and don't read the newspapers, let me come with shame, said: "I don't
recap what happened at that special Council meeting held last March. want to talk about it, because it was
While she was sitting pretty, listening to the various speeches, someone really my own fault." While she
interrupted, asking that justice be rendered and that the person emanat- might consider herself at fault, the
ing toxic poisons be ejected from this room. Several agreed with that rest of the world (except a few
loud woman (including some quite entertaining characters wearing gas weird people) calls her a victim of
masks!!) and a mini riot started in City Hall. While our good old the Halifax Hysteria!
Grandma turned around to see who brought toxic poisons (quite dan-
gerous and inconsiderate people, you have to admit?), she noticed two The national press noticed the
Canadian Mounties walking toward her. They got right to her chair, Halifax Hysteria, from the New
sniffed around like dogs looking for bad smells and said: "Yes, it's her." York Times to The Wall Street
They helped the old lady get up, escorted her to the door and to her dis- Journal. Many of the papers in the
may, EJECTED her from the Council meeting at City Hall. The crowd nation and most recently, American
applauded. Spectator magazine are talking
about this . Michael Fumento, a
Her crime: with her nice dress and jewelry, she always wears a lit- senior fellow at the Hudson
tle bit of her favorite perfume! Yes, ladies and gentlemen, you read cor- Institute, a Washington D.C. think-

tank, wrote in his article "Scents cafeteria's bad cook hostage, no. Barb Wilke.
and Senselessness" in the above
mentioned American Spectator: The Mounties arrested him MCS sufferers are very vocal,
"Nowhere is the "Holy War" on because he violated the school's and try to convince the outside
scent raging as it is in Halifax." In anti-scent policy by wearing world (outside of their bubble) that
fact, most of the city's public insti- Dippity Doo hair gel and Aqua they are victims and that we (the
tutions, a number of large business- Velva deodorant to class. The fragrance industry) are out to get
es as well as public buses now teacher, a "self-declared" sufferer them! We could start a collection
request or demand that employees from MCS (Multiple Chemical among the written bloopers and
be "scent-free." Even the newspa- Sensitivity) syndrome claimed that printed propaganda, sell it to seri-
per "The Halifax Chronicle- the boy, and his scents, made her ous magazines and make more
Herald" forbids its 350 employees vomit, gave her headaches and money than an unlucky contestant
to use perfumes, aftershave, fra- other kind of miseries. She request- on "Who Wants to be a
granced deodorants, shampoos, ed that the boy be charged with Millionaire?" I will now try to
hair gels and even "strong-smelling assault. What was the assault entertain you (or make to you cry!)
mouthwash." Listen to the person- weapon? Dippity Doo Gel or Aqua with a few quotes I have discovered
nel manager form this oh! so-invit- Velva? The police are still deciding in various newspapers, magazines,
ing-to-work-there newspaper, talk- whether to press charges or not. I websites and other sources of
ing about this scent-free rule: "It's have to agree with Michael enchantment for my sarcastic point
no different from a business's rule Fumento, who, writing about this of view! "Fragrance products worn
policy, either you abide by it or you ridiculous incident said that a 17 by people a block away, adversely
don't work here." Yikes! Why don't year old boy wearing Aqua Velva affect the chemically sensitive,"
you take a chill pill, Adolf? should be arrested! But the bunch claims Marin County's Barb Wilke.
of hysterical MCS sufferers are One entire block? What are the
The Telephone Service Center now pushing the envelope a bit too people from Marin county wear-
also forbids its 1,400 employees to far! Let's see what Washington ing? Skunk juice?
use fragranced products as well. University Medical Professor H.
When employees log on their com- James Wedner thinks about the Ms. Betty Bridges from the
puters at work, reminders (not to MCS sufferers: "As with most mys- Fragranced Products Information
use fragrances) pop up on their tery syndromes, middle-class white Network, a Virginia-based associa-
screens. Notes are posted in toilets, women are most likely to complain tion against virtually everything,
asking again not to use toiletries! of it. Typically, they're well off not only supports Halifax's no-
No, I'm not going there! Another enough that they can afford to drop scent policy but also claims victo-
touching story coming from our out if they're allergic to their entire ry! Victory for what? We don't
(soon to be former) friends from environment. If you're poor, you know, but she claims it! Let's see
Canada. In the Halifax-area (wow, simply can't afford to have MCS what she said about that: "Halifax
am I surprised?) community of syndrome." I couldn't have said it has struck fear in the heart of the
Sheet Harbour, a teacher called the better myself! fragrance industry. Halifax has
RCMP (Royal Canadian Mounties been able to do what the Federal
Police) to arrest Gary Falkeham, a "Fragrance products worn by Drug Administration, the European
17-year-old student, not because he people a block away, adversely Commission and other regulatory
attempted (as too often nowadays) affect the chemically agencies have been unable to do."
to shoot someone or detained the sensitive,"claims Marin County's Could it be because, regulatory

agencies base decisions on fact, restlessness, rashes, hives, eczema, prise may well be a figment of
research and results; and Halifax flushing, muscle and joint pain, these people collective imagina-
listens to a bunch of hysterics, and muscle weakness, irregular heart- tion, in other words, a psychoso-
makes policies without proof of beat, hypertension, swollen lymph matic epidemic. A mania! Denver
wrongdoing? glands and more" MORE? What psychologist Herman Stauden-
could be more than that? Death? mayer, who has had over 500
Ms. Bridges and her followers alleged MCS cases referred to him,
(you should visit their website, its In his article, Michael Fumento published a paper last year about a
funnier than an evening with Eddie also reports the quite frightening woman who was awarded worker's
Murphy) should know that the thoughts coming from Barb Wilke's compensation (that's mainly what
FDA, as well as the CTFA mind, (the same Barb who said that MCS victims are after!) after she
(Cosmetic Toiletries and Fragrance fragrance could be toxic one block complained of sensitivity to fra-
Associations), the FMA (Fragrance away!): "Multiple sclerosis, grances.
Material Association), the IFRA Parkinson's, Lupus and Alzheimer's
(International Fragrance and Raw are all neurological disorders. "She complained of seizures,
Material Association) and the Dyslexia is a neurological dysfunc- upon exposure to various fra-
RIFM (Research Institute for tion. Could any of these neurologi- grances, she would show behav-
Fragrance Material) are constantly cal dysfunctions be caused by ioral signs of seizure activity,
at work testing fragrance ingredi- exposure to neurotoxic chemicals? including muscle jerking, becom-
ents, making sure that they are safe Symptoms are often identical to ing disoriented, non-responsive,
to use. And all this, at the Fragrance chemical hypersensitivity." and giving classic signs of what she
industry's expense. Not at the gov- believed a seizure would look like."
ernment's expense. Her reasoning would be almost As she experienced that "seizure,"
a logical one ifMCS was some- Dr. Ronald Kramer, the article's co-
Check your facts, Ms. Bridges thing recognized by doctors, but, author and medical director of the
and mostly, base your reactions and unfortunately for her, MCS has Colorado Neurological Institute
comments on facts, not mass hyste- been widely rejected as a legitimate and Epilepsy Center in Englewood,
ria. Ms. Bridges goes a bit further, organic disease by most doctors conducted a video electroen-
quoting the late Julia Kendall of and researchers across the U.S. and cephalogram (EEG) to measure the
Marin County who claimed that: Canada. The American Medical brain patterns. Dr. Kramer and
"Symptoms provoked by fra- Association, the American Medical Staudenmayer report: "While she
grances include: watery or dry Council on Scientific Affairs, the was showing overt signs of
eyes, double vision, sneezing, nasal American College of Physicians, "seizure," her EEG was perfectly
congestion, sinusitis, tinnitus, ear the American College of normal. That just doesn't happen
pain, dizziness, vertigo, coughing, Occupational and Environmental with a real seizure." They also
bronchitis, difficulty breathing, dif- Medicine, and the American added that the woman was not
ficulty swallowing, asthma, ana- Academy of Allergy, Asthma and exactly faking it. Her reaction was
phylaxis, headaches, migraine, Immunology have all rejected MCS a "learned sensitivity." She had
seizure, fatigue, confusion, disori- as a legitimate disease. been led to believe she should react
entation, incoherence, short-term to fragrances and that should be her
memory loss, inability to concen- In other words, the illness that's reaction. It's not worker's compen-
trate, nausea, lethargy, anxiety, irri- taken Halifax, and almost the entire sation she should receive; it's an
tability, depression, mood swings, Northern coast of California by sur- Oscar for her performance! It is a

fact that one can be allergic to a starts." related to chrysanthemum is taget

given ingredient but to be allergic oil, also called marigold oil, and,
to all ingredients is not quite seri- One last example of bloopers, believe me, it is NOT a "base for
ous. We compile about 2,500 dif- because my head is spinning from many perfumes" as you put it. It is
ferent products to create our fra- all of these stupid and self-serving an oil that is used very rarely and in
grances and the combination declarations: Dr. Joan Gluck, an minute amounts, because of its
among these products is infinite. allergist with the Florida Center for strength and not because it's related
Allergy and Asthma trying to to ragweed!
So, as Michel Fumento puts it: explain why some people are aller-
"To be allergic to all fragrances is gic to fragrances to reporter Lisa What would you do if we gave
like being allergic to everything Sodders, from the Capital-Journal: you our perfumes formulas? Distort
beginning with the letter F." How "Many perfumes are made from the truth and scare the public some
about this advice coming from plants and flowers and these can be more? Because that is where most
someone called an "allergist" that related to allergic plants. of the problem resides, when peo-
we could qualify as a "clinical ecol- Chrysanthemum, which is a base ple like you, Betty Bridges, Barb
ogist" or "environment physician," for many perfumes, is related to Wilkes and all the other olfactory
as are doctors who treat MCS often ragweed. activists of this world scare the
called. The St. Louis Post-Dispatch public. You don't have facts; you
quoted an unnamed environment Someone might have a tremen- start rumors and then, contaminate
physician saying: "Don't breathe in dous problem being around per- the mind of the masses. Because we
what you cannot eat" - ? - "Look for fume from the middle of August to are, unfortunately, part of a society
biodegradable products at you local frost, maybe in the winter, not as that gives to whiners and complain-
health food store" How about com- bad, because everything is additive. ers, you will always find a politi-
post or cow manure? Could I wear And of course, the manufacturers cian or two ready to listen to you
compost or cow manure? And now of perfume will not tell us what is and defend a cause that does not
for the grand finale: "Avoid things in them." Doctor Gluck, I am flab- exist. Because the mind is some-
that have distinct odors." That last bergasted! What planet are you times weak and the voice always
statement will definitely take away from? How can someone advance powerful, the louder one speaks,
the pleasure to wearing manure! such fallacy and then try to blame the more damage one can make and
Would it be time for me to quit the an entire industry for "not telling that's how Mass Hysteria starts.
perfume industry and start a gas what we put in perfumes!" You
mask factory? don't seem to need our formulas as Michael Fumento agrees that
you reveal to everyone "chrysan- the people from Halifax "are in the
"We are, unfortunately, part of themum is a base for many per- grips of a mania, not a genuine
a society that gives to whiners and fumes." physiological response to chemi-
complainers. You will always find a cals in their environment." He also
politician or two ready to listen to How dare you give our trade points out that a mania that has, at
you and defend a cause that does secrets? Especially since, in my various times, shown up in Asia
not exist. Because the mind is career of 34 years, I have neither and Africa, where, in villages, one
sometimes weak and the voice used nor seen chrysanthemum oil. of the men believed that his penis
always powerful, the louder one Where did you get this information, was shrinking. After discussing this
speaks, the more damage one can from a perfumer on Mars? The problem with the other men of the
make and that's how Mass Hysteria closest ingredient that could be village, they all believed that their

penises were shrinking and even This desert flower

disappearing! To my way of think-
ing, this is a much more serious No sweet perfume ever tortured me
problem than allergies to fra- more than this
grances!
I dream of rain
To the people of Halifax, and to
those going there - as you cannot I lift my gaze to empty skies above
use any deodorants - may I sug-
gest, to cover body odors, wear a I close my eyes, this rare perfume
smoked salmon under each
armafter all, we are in Nova Is the sweet intoxication of her love
Scotia!
Thank you Sting.
To my fellow non-allergic-to-
fragrances-but-allergic-to-stupidi-
ty: there is hope. As many of us
realize that fragrances are made to
make the world a nicer place, at
least odor-wise, and not a menace
to society, let's build a wall going
from Halifax to southern San
Francisco and then we'll contain the
Mania on that part of the west
coast.
After all this negativity, I

would like to bring a touch of posi-
tive thinking. I would like to quote
parts of a beautiful song,
"Desert Rose" from the latest

CD by Sting, (definitely politically
incorrect, by Halifax's standards):
This Desert Rose
by
Sting
Each of her veils, a secret promise

Perfume & Allergy
DECEMBER 12, 2000
GREDIENTS IN COSMETICS KNOWN TO CAUSE ALLERGIC Reactions in of the 24 fragrance ingredients that
I some people are not currently listed on labels, according to a report. can cause allergic reactions.
The study, by the magazine Health Which?, also found that the way "But you may still have trouble
in which some other ingredients are listed can lead to confusion. recognising certain well known
ingredients. If in doubt, seek advice
More than 10,000 ingredients used in cosmetics are required, by from a dermatologist who should
law, to appear on labels. be able to tell you exactly what's in
a product."
Perfumes are the commonest cause of contact allergy from cosmet-
ics. Dr Mike Beck, Hope Hospital, Salford. The key exceptions are any Dermatology
of the 2,600 fragrance chemicals which are currently listed under the
catch-all term "parfum". Dr Mike Beck, director of the
Contact Dermatology Investigation
This is despite 24 of these being common triggers of allergic reac- Unit at Hope Hospital, Salford, told
tions. BBC News Online that failure to
specify the fragrance chemicals in
In addition, Health Which? found most ingredients are listed by cosmetics had prevented dermatol-
their chemical name - an internationally-agreed system - or in Latin ogists from carrying out work into
which can cause confusion. allergies.
There may be problems recognising well known ingredients - for He said: "Perfumes are the
instance, peanut oil goes by the name of Arachis hypogaea on cosmetic commonest cause of contact allergy
labels. from cosmetics.
Nikki Ratcliff, Senior Researcher for Health Which? said: "At the "They contain quite a compli-
moment if you think you are allergic to fragrance chemicals your only cated array of materials, and there-
option is to avoid anything which has 'parfum' on the label which means fore just putting the word parfum
ruling out a huge number of products. on the label has not helped us to
understand why precisely people
"We welcome the proposed change in the law from the European are becoming allergic.
Commission which would require cosmetics manufacturers to list any
"We cannot tell which components Following instructions, especially

are causing the problem, or in what on products such as face masks.
concentrations they become
active." Health Which?
Dr Beck said allergic reactions Advised that people who do

to perfume usually caused a red, suffer irritation should seek advice
scaly rash on the skin. from a doctor, or a skin test from a
dermatologist.
However, in rare cases
extremely sensitive patients might The magazine also advises peo-
also develop problems with sneez- ple who suffer a reaction to inform
ing and breathing. the manufacturer.
Advice The batch code will enable the

manufacturer to trace when the
Health Which? makes recom- product was made.
mendations on how to ensure that
make up is safe and hygienic to use. Trading standards may be able
to advise on disputes.
These include:
Not sharing make-up.
Washing hands before using cos-

metics.
Regularly washing brushes and

applicators in warm soapy water.
Not using cosmetics on broken or

infected skin.
Storing cosmetics in a cool, dry

place away from direct sunlight.
Not using make-up if it smells

strange or a solution has become
separated or discoloured.
Testing the product on a small

patch of skin to check for sensitivi-
ty.
Health Risks Associated with Using Perfumes
sure to air pollutants can contribute

S ENSITIVITY AND OTHER ADVERSE EFFECTS FROM FRAGRANCES ARE
HARDLY ISOLATED EVENTS. There are growing numbers of people that
are adversely impacted by the widespread use of scented products.
to the development of cancer, respi-
ratory conditions, allergies, asthma,
chemical sensitivity, and other dis-
Fragrance: eases.
Materials added to give the product a scent, mask the odor of other In spite of the ubiquitous expo-
ingredients, or alter mood and emotions. Materials used may be sure, there is little regulation or
synthetic, natural, or both. monitoring of the use of fragrance
or the materials that are used in
This brochure is provided to help increase awareness of the negative them. Fragrance formulas are con-
impact fragrances may have on your health and the health of others. The sidered trade secrets and do not
information provided is based on medical, scientific, and industry liter- have to be revealed to the public or
ature. regulatory agencies. Regulation is
fragmented, there are few laws in
The use of fragrance has increased tenfold since the 1950s. The place, and these are rarely enforced.
industry sales of fragrance materials used to scent products doubled By all accounts the fragrance indus-
between 1980 and 1989. try is primarily self-regulated with
very little oversight.
This phenomenal growth means that exposure to the materials used
in fragrance has increased as well. Fragrance is added to toiletries, cos- Health Concerns
metics, household products, pesticides and many other items. With this
increase in exposure, problems associated with fragrance have emerged. Fragrance can enter the body
Not only has the incidence of adverse health effects to users of scented through lungs, airways, skin, inges-
products increased.1 there are problems from "second-hand" exposures tion, and via pathways from th nose
as well. directly to the brain.3
Substances used in fragrance are volatile compounds that get into An EPA sponsored literature
the air and linger. These compounds add to indoor air pollution and con- review grouped fragrance, as sec-
tribute to poor indoor air quality. According to the EPA, poor air quali- ond hand smoke, and formaldehyde
ty can cause headaches, irritation to eyes, nose, and throat, dizziness, together as triggers for asthma. Up
fatigue, forgetfulness and a host of other symptoms. Long-term expo- to 72% of asthmatics cite fragrance
as a trigger .5 pected hormone disrupters. designed to quickly get into the air
and some fragrance chemicals
Fragrance contributes to indoor Fragrance has neurological effects linger in fabric and on surfaces for
air pollution and can irritate the that can alter blood pressure, pulse, months.
eyes, nose, throat. and lungs. and mood, and have sedative
effects. When a person has an adverse
As much as 15% of the general effect from fragrance, it is almost
population find fragrance a lower Other Concerns impossible to pinpoint the responsi-
airway irritant. ble ingredient.
80 - 90 % of materials used in
Fragrance in the air can cause fragrance are synthesized, most Virtually every segment of the
airborne contact dermatis. from petroleum products. population has exposure to fra-
grance.
Research suggests as much as Less than 1300 of the over 3000
11% of the general population may fragrance materials in use have Fragrance accumulates and per-
have skin allergy to fragrance. been evaluated for skin safety. sists in the aquatic environment like
other persistent organic pollutants
According to the information at Industry testing focuses on skin such as pesticides.
the FDA website, fragrance is the effects and rarely evaluates respira-
number one cause of skin allergic tory, neurological, reproductive or Fragrance is ubiquitous in air inside
reactions to cosmetics. Scented systemic effects. and found outside, even in remote
products often contain several areas.
known skin sensitizers. The materials used in fragrance
are not on the label and do not have Many fragrance chemicals are
Common fragrance chemicals to be disclosed to anyone, including on the EPA's High Production
like coumarin, methyl eugenol and regulatory agencies. The only way Volume List, meaning that over one
others are suspected carcinogens. to avoid problematic materials is to million pounds are manufactured or
avoid all scented products. imported annually.
Musk xylene is a suspected car-
cinogen. Musk ketone is suspected Products claiming to be Common Fragrance Materials
of increasing carcinogenic effects "Fragrance Free" or "Unscented"
of the other materials. Musk ketone may still contain fragrance, which Acetic Acid, benzyl ester - Target
and musk xylene are found in fat may or may not be listed as an organs: nerves, kidneys; possible
tissue and breast milk. ingredient on the label. carcinogen.
Synthetic musk compounds Modern fragrance formulas Benzyl alcohol - Central Nervous
may cross the placental barrier. often contain high concentrations System (CNS) depressant.
of potent and long lasting synthetic
Synthetic musk and other mate- materials with little history of use p-Cresol, 2,6-di-tert-butyl - Target
rials have estrogenic effects. and little available health and safe- organ: lungs; possible carcinogen.
ty data.
Materials used in fragrance Coumarin - Animal carcinogen.
(such as some phthalates) are sus- Modern formulations are
p-Cymene - Chronic effects: dam-

age to lungs, liver, kidneys; Target
organ: CNS.
Di Ethyl phthalate - Possible risk of

congenital malformation in the
fetus; targets nerves.
Iso E Super -The chemical, physi-

cal, and toxicological properties
have not been thoroughly investi-
gated.
Musk Ketone - Increases carcino-

genic effects of other materials.
Found in blood, fat tissue, and
breast milk; crosses placental barri-
er.
Musk Yylene - Carcinogenic in ani-

mal studies. Found in blood, fat tis-
sue, and breast milk; crosses pla-
cental barrier.
6-0cten-1-ol, 3, 7 - Di Methyl -
Extremely destructive to the tissue
of the mucous membranes and
upper respiratory tract.
Toluene - Target organs: liver, kid-

neys, brain, bladder. One of nine
major starting materials for synthe-
sis of fragrance chemicals.
4-Vinyl Phenol - Toxic. May impair

fertility. Toxic by inhalation.
Respiratory and skin sensitizer.
2, 6 - Xylenol - Toxic. Harmful by

inhalation. Material is extremely
destructive to upper respiratory
system, eyes, and skin. Corrosive.
Infertility Concerns
NOVEMBER 25, 2002
groups around the world.

H IGH LEVELS OF A CHEMICAL BLAMED FOR CAUSING INFERTILITY IN MEN
HAVE BEEN FOUND IN SOME OF THE WORLD'S BEST-KNOWN PERFUMES
and cosmetics. Researchers at the Analycen lab
analysed 34 leading brands of cos-
Chanel No5, Christian Dior's Poison, Eternity from Calvin Klein metics and found more than three-
and Tresor by Lancome were among 34 toiletries found by a Swedish quarters contained phthalates,
study to contain di-ethylhexyl phthalate or other phthalates. which help prevent loss of fra-
grance.
The European Commission is proposing a ban on the use in cos-
metics of two of the most potent forms of phthalates amid fears they The investigation found other
cause genital abnormalities affecting up to 4 per cent of male babies. forms of the chemical in Tommy
Girl perfume, Impulse Body Spray,
These genital abnormalities - which can include undescended testi- Nivea Deo Compact, Sure Ultra
cles and malformation of the urinary tract - are blamed for soaring lev- deodorant, Shockwaves hair
els of testicular cancer in young men. Cases of the disease have risen mousse and four hairsprays includ-
tenfold in the past century. About 1900 British males, some as young as ing Elnett Satin, Pantene Pro-V
15, are diagnosed every year. Nine out of 10 cases are cured, but doc- Extra Hold and Vidal Sassoon.
tors are worried by the trend.
Per Rosander, who wrote the
Scientists believe the phthalates could be absorbed into women's report, said: "What we know about
bloodstreams through the skin or inhalation. these chemicals is that they cause
damage to the reproductive system.
The Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association condemned the That is why they have been classed
report as inaccurate. It said: "Consumer safety is the first priority for the by the EU as reproductive toxins."
cosmetic industry and consumers can have complete confidence in the
cosmetic products they use, and in the regulatory framework which Richard Sharpe, of the Medical
ensures cosmetic safety." Research Council's Human
Reproductive Sciences Unit in
Numerous studies on rats and mice have shown phthalate exposure Edinburgh, said: "If you wanted to
causes genital abnormality. The latest research was conducted by a produce a list of environmental
Swedish government-accredited laboratory for Healthcare Without causes of the reproductive health
Harm, a US-based organisation representing 300 consumer pressure problems in boys, phthalates would
be pretty near the top of the list."
Actor Julia Sawalha, who

played Saffy in Absolutely
Fabulous, supports the Women's
Environmental Network, a backer
of the Swedish research.
"Chemicals that pose a risk to fer-
tility do not belong in cosmetics,
and manufacturers should be made
to list ingredients," she said.
The Australian
Think Twice -
Before Giving Fragrance as a Gift
FEBRUARY 12, 2003
HE WAY TO THE HEART IS THROUGH THE NOSE, asserts Symrise, a In recent years it has become
T leading fragrance manufacturer. But lovers may want to think twice
about giving a bottle of cologne or perfume for Valentines Day, say
fashionable to criticize the use of
fragrances in our society, suggest-
some health advocates. Certain fragrances and their chemical con- ing that this use is associated with a
stituents might trigger an allergic rather than aphrodisiac response. And variety of negative effects, writes
some perfumes contain hidden ingredients that may pose longer-term Peter Cadby of the International
hazards. Fragrance Association, in a recent
journal article. [But] an adequate
If your love interest suffers from asthma, rhinitis, allergies, dermati- review and testing mechanism
tis or a growing range of chemical sensitivities, that bottle of perfume exists to assure the safety of fra-
may very well repel more than attract. According to medical specialists, grance materials, and their combi-
fragrance sensitivity appears to be on the rise. nation in mixtures, for the con-
sumers of fragranced products.
Its also a growing contributor to indoor pollution in the workplace,
says Carrie Loewenherz, an industrial hygienist for the New York However, some health advocates
Committee for Occupational Safety and Health. point to growing evidence that per-
fumes, hair gels and other fra-
People often joke about it, people wearing offensive perfumes, granced products may contain
says Loewenherz. But its no laughing matter, she adds, either for the chemicals such as phthalates,
allergy sufferers or the office managers trying to manage a delicate which can disrupt hormones. In
problem. addition, they point to other com-
pounds that can affect immunity,
Astrid Berg, director of the American Lung Associations the nervous system, or play a role
Washington State office, agrees, noting that fragrance seems to be an in cancer and other health prob-
increasing irritant among people with asthma. lems.
We tend to not think of it as serious until we see someone in acute Even if the general population
distress, says Berg. isnt likely to suffer acute effects
from exposure to fragrances, there
Safe enough to sniff? The cosmetic industry insists its products are are long-term chronic health effects
safe. connected to these chemicals that
we dont fully understand yet,

says Loewenherz. also found in vapors emitted from ducted the tests, found the chemical
toxic products like solvents, wood made up about 10 percent of the
Once distilled simply from preservatives, paint strippers and fragrance portion of the perfume,
flower essences, perfumes today dry cleaning chemicals. says Bridges. The fragrance also
are complex mixtures of natural included synthetic musks, which
(botanical or animal-derived) mate- VOCs are known to produce are suspected animal carcinogens
rials and synthetic chemicals. eye, nose and throat irritation, as and may stimulate human cancer
More than 5,000 different fra- well as headaches, loss of coordina- tumors.
grances are used in perfumes and tion, nausea, liver damage, and
skin products in hundreds of chem- harm to the kidneys and central Bridges says that while search-
ical combinations, according to the nervous system, according to the ing the chemical data sheets for
American Academy of Environmental Protection Agency. compounds in the fragrance, the
Dermatology. Some VOCs can cause cancer in researchers often found the individ-
animals and are suspected or ual chemicals carried this phrase:
But because the chemical for- known to cause cancer in humans. The chemical, physical, and toxi-
mulas of fragrances are considered cological properties have not been
trade secrets, companies arent And while adverse health thoroughly investigated.
required to list their ingredients. effects from VOCs typically occur
They need only label them as con- at far higher doses than what would The presence of these chemi-
taining fragrance. be found in fragrances, they never- cals ought to be more than simply a
theless can be potentially danger- concern for the chemically sensi-
Thats a problem for the med- ous in tight indoor spaces, tive since fragrances are so ubiqui-
ical profession when it comes to Loewenherz says. tous in our society, says Bridges.
allergies, says dermatologist
Howard Maibach, a professor of A widespread problem? To voice her concerns, Bridges
dermatology at the University of signed a May 1999 petition filed
California at San Francisco. The Betty Bridges, director of the with the Food and Drug
large quantity and variety of chem- says that some 72 percent of asth- Administration, asking for the per-
icals can make it difficult to pin- matics react adversely to perfumes fume to be labeled as untested for
point causes of allergies or irrita- and at least 35 million Americans safety.
tion. are afflicted with allergies.
Name brand products tested
Potentially harmful ingredients Bridges supported the when it
commissioned an independent lab- Bridges and EHN arent the
The rising tide of fragrances in oratory to test Calvin Kleins only ones concerned about the safe-
myriad products, from skin lotions Eternity, one of several fragrances ty of perfume. Last May, a group
and tissues to cleaning products and most problematic for fragrance suf- of environmental and public health
candles, is adding to the problem, ferers. Tests revealed that the per- organizations, led by the commis-
says Loewenherz. Because some 95 fume contained more than 40 com- sioned a national laboratory to test
percent of perfume ingredients are pounds, among them diethyl phtha- 72 name brand beauty products for
synthesized from petrochemicals, late, an irritant and suspected hor- the presence of phthalates, a large
they give off volatile organic com- mone disruptor that is absorbed family of industrial chemicals that
pounds, known as VOCs, which are through the skin. The lab that con- have been linked to birth defects.

Their report, revealed phtha- University School of Public Health additionally, EPA requires safety
lates in about 75 percent of the investigators found a link between testing for any new chemicals;
products tested (52 out of 72 prod- sperm damage and monoethyl RIFM does its own safety testing
ucts), including hair gels, deodor- phthalate, a compound used to of chemicals; and many fragrance
ants, hair sprays, mousses, body maintain the color and scent in and cosmetics companies do their
lotions, and in all of the 17 fra- many cosmetic items such as per- own testing, says Roberts.
grances tested. fumes, colognes and hair spray.
But Marian Stanley, manager of the In addition, the FDA collects
Phthalates have also been tar- a chemical trade group, says the complaints from consumers, and
geted for concern by the Centers for study results, while worth taking from their records, thats less than 1
Disease Control and Prevention. In seriously, were at variance with complaint per million users, adds
releasing its second national many other animal studies. Roberts.
human exposure study, the CDC
found that phthalates were among Government regulation Francesca Lyman is an environ-
the chemicals found to accumulate mental and travel journalist and
in body organs. The question remains: if there is author of Inside the Dzanga-
a significant health risk posed by Sangha Rain Forest (Workman,
Jim Pirkle, deputy director of fragrances, shouldnt the govern- 1998). She recently finished a
science for the environmental ment be regulating them? Because report on the health effects of the
health lab at the Centers for Disease cosmetics are legally defined as Sept. 11 attacks titled Messages in
Control and Prevention, said that products not intended to affect the the Dust, which will be available
the agency was surprised to find bodys functions as drugs are, the online at www.neha.org.
such a high evidence of exposure to FDA does not require any pre-mar-
phthalates from personal care prod- ket safety testing of cosmetics or
ucts in children, especially adoles- fragrances to the extent that the
cents. agency would a drug.
It makes us want to do more Only drugs are pre-tested,

studies to see if the levels theyre says an FDA spokesperson.
exposed to are comparable to the Cosmetics are treated less strict-
levels causing problems in ani- ly.
mals, says Pirkle.
Essentially, protection lies in
Phthalates, which are estro- the hands of the fragrance industry.
genic or anti-androgenic, are of Glenn Roberts, spokesperson for
concern, said Pirkle, who added the Research Institute for Fragrance
that more health studies are needed Materials, an industry-sponsored
to determine whether Americans group that does voluntary testing of
are getting overdosed with these chemicals, says safety is insured in
chemicals. a four-step process.
Concerns were heightened in First, we have a long history of

November when Harvard cosmetics ingredients use to go on;

Essential Oil - Diluting or Cutting
OCTOBER 11, 2003
s far as adulteration is concerned, producers and distributors of these standards to be guaranteed?

A essential oils are frequently painted as the bad guys, but it should
be pointed out that their oil customers frequently demand oils below the
No quality standards for the authen-
tication of essential oils exist in
market price while still wanting to be told that they are authentic. aromatherapy, in spite of the reve-
lations of gross adulteration of aro-
Introduction: matherapy oils for retail sale
(Health Which 2000). Professional
In this climate, the honest oil trader may find it virtually impossible aromatherapy organisations have
to survive on the margins he is allowed to make (many have already failed to issue standards, in spite of
gone bust). For example, in the late 20th Century, lavender oil individual schemes being put for-
(Lavandula angustifolia) was being sold almost as a loss leader by many ward (Jones 1998) but, in contrast,
French producers as the market was unwilling to pay a realistic price; other essential oil-using industries
currently, the aroma industry is dominated by a handful of large and are served by the following stan-
powerful international houses whose corporate buyers often attempt to dards.
drive raw material prices to impossibly low levels, not allowing work-
able profits to be made. This sets the scene for unethical practices. The Pharmaceutical Trade:
British Pharmacopoeia (BP) 2002
Essential oils - a definition. is published on recommendation of
the Medicines Commission UK.
An essential oil (e.o.) is the volatile oil containing odiferous ele- Oils specifications are also pub-
ments of the plant, produced by steam or hydro-distillation of aromatic lished in the European
vegetable plant matter. E. o. components arise via the secondary metab- Pharmacopoeia 4th edn 2002 (Eur.
olism of plants and are stored within specialised structures; ideally they Pharm 4th edn); United States
are isolated with minimum chemical changes from human intervention. Pharmacopoeia (USP); also the
Citrus oils, produced by the mechanical pressing of citrus peels, are also pharmacopoeias of individual
called essential oils, and, according to the International Standards nations such as China, India etc.
Organisation (ISO), so are dry-distilled oils - such as cade oil (from the Earlier editions of
branches of Juniperus oxycedrus) and styrax pyrogene (from
Liquidamber spp). The British Pharmaceutical
Codex (BPC) contains many essen-
E.o.s should be produced by purely physical means, and be 100% tial oil standards still in use today.
pure and wholly derived from the named botanical source - but how are

Essential Oil Trade: Monographs address the unique needs of the aro- by aromachology perfumes (worth
on individual essential oils (EOA matherapy profession, since: 611 million for years 1999-2001
Standards) were produced by the according to Mintel Database
Holistic aromatherapists 2002) contain a proportion of syn-
Scientific Committee of the demand that pure and complete thetics stipulated by the perfume
Essential Oil Association Inc. oils are used, rather than oils only house, mixed in with the e.o.s. The
distilled for periods which are alleged psychopharmaceutical
Flavourings Industry: Food attractive economically, on a yield: effects of these products still
Chemicals Codex IV (1996, US) fuel-consumption basis (although depend on the utilization of authen-
produced at the request of the FDA unnecessary energy wastage may tic essential oils in the formulation
(1992), is widely used for guidance not be seen currently as a particu- as far as marketing claims/hype
by the food flavourings industry. larly deep green strategy!). are concerned anyway. A realistic
in-practice distinction between
Aroma Companies: Many larger Many essential oils used in aro- mass-marketed aromatherapy per-
established Flavour & Fragrance matherapy are particular to that fumes (as opposed to 100% e.o.
Houses have their own internal pur- industry, and not necessarily exten- blends) and aromachology per-
chasing standards. sively used elsewhere e.g. fumes, other than at a hypothetical
Ravensara aromatica, Rosemary oil level, has yet to be defined, since
Independent Certifying Bodies: verbenone chemotype, both commonly employ synthetics.
International Standards Helichrysum italicum ssp.- serot- The synthetics content can presum-
Organisation (ISO Standards TC inum etc. ably have either symbiotic, neutral
54) & Association Franaise de or opposing effects (mood chang-
Normalisation (AFNOR) both have As well as pure and natural, ing etc.) to those claimed for the
detailed standards for e.o.s.* the words wild-crafted, organic e.o.s in the perfumes in question,
and clinical grade are frequently hence the need for clinical testing
An example is ISO 3515 for Oil of over-hyped descriptor terms used of the finished formulations to sup-
Lavender (2001) which includes by both aromatherapy and by nat- port advertising claims.
minimum and maximum percent- urals traders, which need more
ages of thirteen substances, and careful definition prior to profes- Types of adulteration
their occurrence in French (sponta- sional endorsement.
neous and clonal), Bulgarian, There are several distinct categories
Russian, Australian and other ori- Natural perfumery of adulteration:
gin lavender oils. Limits for
lavandulyl acetate, for example, are Natural perfumers are other 1. Addition of single raw materials.
set at 2.0-5.0% in Bulgarian laven- potential users of pure essential This simple form of adulteration
der oil by the standard. oils. Grimshaw (1989) discussed can be conveniently divided into
purist perfumers (who employ no two groups:
Aromatherapy chemically produced or chemically
modified ingredients), but also dis- Invisibles i.e. those materials
Whilst it is apparent that the cussed reasons why others may undetectable by a gas chromato-
current BP or ISO standards may wish to use up to 50% synthetics in graph (GC) analysis operating
serve the needs of particular indus- formulations. This was, in a way, a under routine conditions to analyse
trial sectors, they do not entirely prediction todays situation, where- essential oils.

Visibles those materials normal- Benzyl Alcohol (now classified as a because the materials may show a
ly detectable by G sensitiser by SCCNFP opinion) myriad of late-eluting small peaks
Benzyl Benzoate (now classified as on a GC trace representing their
Invisibles: an example of this a sensitiser by SCCNFP opinion; different constituent isomers,
type is the deliberate addition of formerly widely used to extend which could be overlooked by an
vegetable or mineral oil to essential resinoids) inexperienced analyst especially at
oils (Nour-el-Din et al. 1977) - low levels.
rapeseed oil in the EU is a particu- Carbitol (diethylene glycol
larly cheap vegetable oil which has monoethyl ether or DEGME) In all the above instances of
been used for this purpose. visible and non-visible adulter-
Theoretically the total area of the Diacetone Alcohol ants, the added material is merely a
detectable components of the oils diluent, and makes no odour contri-
gas chromatogram should be Dipropylene Glycol (DPG) bution of its own. Addition of 10-
reduced by this latter type of adul- 14% of such a material may pass
teration, creating suspicion for the Dipropylene glycol methyl ether un-noticed if the material is evalu-
analyst and the need for further (DPGME) and Rripropylene glycol ated against a retained standard
investigation. These adulterant methyl ether (TPGME) - both of solely on an odour basis even by
materials may be revealed by aque- these substances are in air freshen- an expert nose but it will in all
ous alcohol solubility tests, and er technology. probability be revealed by subse-
their presence further verified by quent physio-chemical testing e.g.
using a different GC column & Herculyn D (hydrogenated added vegetable oil in patchouli oil
operating conditions (to detect min- methyl ester of rosin) can often be revealed by a solubili-
eral oil), or by derivatisation (for ty test in 90% alcohol at 20C.
example the use of a methylating Isopar (odourless kerosene frac-
agent for vegetable oils whereby tions often used as a candle per- 2. The addition of cheaper essential
the volatile methyl esters of the fume diluent) oils and adjuncts.
fatty acid components of glyceryl
esters are revealed by subsequent Isopropyl Myristate (IPM) Blending in cheaper oils to
GC analysis). meet a customers target purchas-
Phthalate esters such as ing price, or to make additional
Visible diluents in this con- Dibutylphthalate (DNP) or Diethyl profit for the producer, is common-
text include a number of solvents phthalate (DEP). place in the oil trade. Some prac-
and perfumery materials. For tices mentioned by Arctander
example the following have been Triacetin (the anti-fungal com- (1960) - for example, the practice
found in commercial essential oils: pound glycerol triacetate - a popu- of extending of Amyris oil (Amyris
in a few instances resulting in a lar food flavourings vehicle). 3,3,5- balsamifera) with Cedarwood oil
warning or prosecution by regula- Virginia (Juniperus virginiana) and
tory authorities: Trimethyl-hexan-1-ol. Copaiba Balsam (Copaifera spp.)
are unlikely to fool too many poten-
Abitol (a primary hydroabietyl Use of materials like isotridecyl tial customers in these present &
alcohol) often used for extending acetate (ITDA, Fixateur 404), more educated times, but other
resinoids. Herculyn D and Abitol, can be more common adulteration prac-
moderately difficult to spot, tices still remain, which include:

Bergamot oil (Citrus bergamia): ers. Sandalwood oil EI (Santalum

addition of lemon oil, rectified ho album): addition of
oil (Cinnamomum spp.) and acety- Lavender oil (Lavandula angustifo- sandalwood terpenes, sandalwood
lated ho oil Bitter orange oil (Citrus lia): addition of cheaper lavandin fragrance chemicals etc.
aurantium subsp. aurantium): addi- (Lavandula x intermedia) oil vari-
tion of sweet orange oil (Citrus eties; the addition of spike lavender Rosemary oil (Rosmarinus offici-
sinensis) & orange terpenes, plus oil (Lavandula latifolia); the addi- nalis) addition of eucalyptus oil
trace amounts of character com- tion of ho oil rectified Eucalyptus globulus) & camphor
pounds. (Cinnamomum spp) and acetylated oil white (Cinnamomum campho-
ho or acetylated lavandin oils etc. ra).
Cedarwood oil Virginia (Juniperus
virginiana): Lemon oil (Citrus limon): addition Verbena oil (Lippia citriodora): L.
of orange terpenes, lemon terpenes citriodora herb distilled over lemon
addition of cedarwood oil Chinese & byproducts (e.g. steam-stripped oil.
(Cupressus funebris). Cinnamon lemon oil). For lemon oil BP,
bark oil (Cinnamomum zeylan- expressed lime or grapefruit oil is Violet Leaf absolute (Viola odora-
icum): addition of cinnamon leaf added to poor grades to raise the ta): addition of spinach absolute
oil. UV absorbance level sufficiently to (Spinacia oleracea).
pass the BP specifications.
Cinnamon leaf oil (Cinnamomum Ylang Ylang oil qualities (Cananga
zeylanicum): Nutmeg oil (Myristica fragrans): odorata subsp. genuina): addition
the addition of nutmeg terpenes, a- of cananga oil (Cananga odorata),
addition of clove fractions, pinene, limonene, turpentine ylang ylang oil tails etc., ylang
eugenol, cinnamic aldehyde etc. fractions etc. ylang oil reconstitutions.
Clove Bud oil (Syzygium -aro- Patchouli oil (Pogostemon cablin): And also addition of these synthet-
maticum): addition of clove stem addition of gurjun balsam ics to convert one oil to another:
oil & isolates (eugenol) & eugenyl (Dipterocarpus spp.); vegetable
acetate. Fir Needle oils (Abies oils, Hercolyn D; patchouli and Basil oil exotic: add linalol to con-
spp.): addition of turpentine frac- vetiver distillation residues. The vert to Basil oil Sweet (Arctander
tions, camphene, (-)- bornyl acetate superior Indonesian patchouli oil is 1960).
etc. often blended with the cheaper
Chinese oil. Eucalyptus globulus: add a-terpine-
Geranium oil Chinese ol & others to convert to
(Pelargonium hybrids): addition of Petitgrain oils (Citrus spp): addi- Eucalyptus radiata.
adulterated Indian geranium oil tion of other citrus leaf oils & frac-
(which itself has been known to tions, fatty aldehydes, linalyl Geranium oil Chinese to Geranium
contain diphenyl oxide!) acetate, orange terpenes etc. oil Bourbon:
Grapefruit oil (Citrus paradisi): Peppermint oil (Mentha X piperi- addition of balancing materials
addition of orange terpenes or ta): addition of cornmint oil (monoterpene alcohols and esters,
sweet orange oil distilled + minor (Mentha arvensis). especially formates), copper
amounts of (+)-nootkatone & oth- chlorophyll (for colour) and fre-

quently a trace of dimethyl and/or cheaper Sumatra grades as For balance of extensive article
dibutyl sulphides. Siam). please visit the web site as follows:
Tangerine oil (Citrus reticula var. Bergamot oil (Citrus bergamia): www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~nodic/
tangerine): addition of g-terpinene, addition of linalol and linalyl new/magazine/october/october.htm
dimethyl anthranilate, a-sinesal & acetate.
perilla aldehyde to convert to
Mandarin oil (Citrus reticulata var. Bitter almond oil (Prunus amyg-
mandarin). dalus var. dulcis): addition of, or
passing off benzaldehyde, as the
3. The addition of cheap (nature oil.
identical) synthetics to oils that nat-
urally contain these materials. Buchu leaf oil (Barosma betulina &
Little detailed guidance has been B. crenulata): addition to cutters of
previously published in this area. monoterpene sulphide fractions
The older work of Arctander (1960) synthesised from the hydrogen sul-
mentions a number of adulteration phide treatment of pulegone,
practices, but the sophistication of including p-menthan-8- thiol-3-
customer quality control proce- one.
dures probably means that of the
noted practices are now too obvious Cassia oil (Cinnamomum aro-
for todays market. Looking at maticum): the addition of synthetic
other published material on adulter- cinnamic aldehyde, methyl cinnam-
ation, Singhal et al. (2001) remarks ic aldehyde & coumarin.
on the adulteration of spice oils by
simple additions of single raw Chamomile oil Roman (Anthemis
materials e.g. the addition of syn- nobilis): addition of isobutyl ange-
thetic citral to Litsea cubeba oil. late and bisabolols.
My own guide to questionable
practices include the following: Cinnamon bark oil (Cinnamomum
zeylanicum): the addition of syn-
Anise oil (Pimpinella spp.): addi- thetic benzaldehde, eugenol and
tion of technical grade anethol. cinnamic aldehyde.
Basil oil exotic (Ocimum spp.): Citrus oils: the addition of fatty
addition of methyl chavicol & aldehydes and monoterpene alco-
linalol. hols and esters to terpeneless and
folded citrus oils.
Benzoin resinoid (Styrax spp.):
addition of small amounts of Caraway seed oil (Carum carvii):
vanillin, benzyl benzoate, ethyl & the addition of limonene and (+)-
benzyl cinnamates, benzoic acid carvone.
etc. to enhance odour (or to pass off

An Obsessed Perfumer
OCTOBER 30, 2003
4,000 DIF- the stairwells stank of moldering

I T IS SAID THAT THE AVERAGE HUMAN NOSE CAN PICK UP SOME
FERENT SMELLS. Many become triggers for memories freshly baked
bread, an ex-girlfriend's hair in the warm sun, old socks left for three
wood and rat droppings, the
kitchens of spoiled cabbage and
days in wet boots. mutton fat; the unaired parlors
stank of stale dust, the bedrooms of
But smells do more than confer pleasure or tell us that meat has greasy sheets, damp featherbeds,
turned rancid. In the creepily disturbing and occasionally repulsive and the pungently sweet aroma of
novel Perfume: The Story of a Murderer, first published almost twenty chamber pots."
years ago, Patrick Sskind explores the idea that our ability to smell and
the ability of others to smell us is essential to our humanity. Into this world, Grenouille is
born. His mother abandons him,
In fact, if one takes the message of this book to heart, the absence leaving him under a table at a Paris
of scent and an aberrant and exaggerated sense of smell can lead to fish market, and he grows up in an
social isolation so extreme that it can drive a scentless victim to amoral- orphanage.
ity and murder.
As a baby, Grenouille doesn't
The most gifted human nose recognizes about 10,000 scents. Jean- smell the way babies should (like
Baptiste Grenouille, the main character in Perfume, has just such a nose. caramel). Although he has an
Grenouille can recall every odor he has ever encountered; he smells a exceptional nose, he himself gives
worm in an apple, money hidden behind brick, and people blocks away. off no bodily odor whatsoever.
Still, everyone he meets finds him
Perfume is so full of smells that they seem to rise from the pages of in some way repellent. The young
the book. Grenouille gave the world noth-
ing but his dung no smile, no cry,
Sskind seduces the reader's olfactory imagination with sensuous no glimmer in the eye, not even his
descriptions of jasmine, attar of roses, the Florentine flasks, and copper own scent.
kettles used to reduce flowers and herbs to their essential oils. The level
of detail is remarkable, both for the book's fairly slim size and the appar- He learns different smells
ent lack of repetition. around him as most children learn
the alphabet, or grasp numbers, and
Set up as a fictional biography, the novel opens in eighteenth-cen- he spends his days identifying and
tury Paris, where "the streets stank of manure, the courtyards of urine, ordering the scents in his world.

His obsession with smell is scent ruled the hearts of men. And fans of the novel can look
absolute. He doesn't care for people forward to the movie version. After
and cares very little about himself. Grenouille's immediate quest is years of hesitation, Sskind has
the ultimate and perfect scentthe given the go-ahead for a film ver-
At the age of 15, Grenouille scent of love that will give him irre- sion of the novel to Munich-based
becomes an apprentice to a Parisian sistible power over others. With film producer Bernd Eichinger
master perfumer and learns the art creepy dispassion, Grenouille kills (The Name of the Rose). No
of dissecting and isolating scents. 25 young virgins and wraps their release date has been set.
bodies in specially oiled cloths that
One day, Grenouille's nose is capture their odors. The result is Birgit Reinert, a former associate
assailed by the most wondrous and an aura more radiant and more editor of GNN, is a freelance writer
magical perfume the scent of a girl effective than any human being had who lives in Berlin.
on the brink of puberty. When he ever possessed before him.
resolves to bottle the maiden's
scent, the obsession becomes dead- His triumph is brief. Grenouille
ly. Without leaving a trace or a realizes that what he had always
scent, Grenouille escapes the mur- longed forthat other people
der scene. should love himbecame at the
moment of its achievement unbear-
After that first crime, able.
Grenouille understood his destiny: Much of the novel stays vaguely
He, Jean-Baptiste, the fishmonger's within the realm of plausibility, but
bastard, was to be the greatest per- Grenouille's final scene takes a turn
fumer of all time. The goal and for the macabre. The story ends in
purpose of his life became nothing something of a mess: a hellish orgy
less than to revolutionize the odor- of cannibalistic desire.
iferous world.
The book was first published in
For the most part, Sskind German in 1985. When critics and
holds the reader in suspense readers caught scent of Perfume, it
through this gripping page-turner. became an international bestseller
and has since been translated into
When Grenouille is beset by 37 different languages, including
demonic dreams, his ambition takes the English translation by John E.
a grandiose and sinister bent as he Woods, which was Sskind's first
develops a plan to rule mankind: book to appear in English .
People could close their eyes Perfume has maintained its

to greatness, to horrors, to beauty, popularity. This year, the British
and their ears to melodies or public has voted Sskind's book
deceiving words. But they could one of the nation's 100 best-loved
not escape scent. For scent was a novels as part of the BBC's The
brother of breath. He who ruled Big Read.

Phthalates
NOVEMBER 18, 2003
Stockholm/London - international organisation Health

Care Without Harm, tested 34 lead-
ing cosmetic products in Sweden
SWEDEN AND BRITAIN CONTAIN and Great Britain for phthalates.
T OP BRAND COSMETICS ON SALE IN
PHTHALATES (pronounced thalates), chemicals hazardous to human
health and fertility. Perfumes, deodorants, hair
mousses, hair gels and hair sprays
Phthalates used in perfume manufacturing proven to were tested to see if they contained
cause cancer in mice! one or several of six different
phthalates. A majority of the phtha-
New survey reveals that some cosmetics contain fertility-threaten- lates spread in the environment,
ing chemicals. and animal studies have shown they
can harm reproductive capacity and
Four out of five products tested for "Pretty Nasty: phthalates in foetal development. Effects include
European cosmetic products" contained at least one phthalate and more birth defects in the male reproduc-
than half contained multiple phthalates. The report authors are calling tive organs and contamination of
on: human breast milk. One US study
found "a substantial internal human
Manufacturers to pledge to remove all phthalates from their prod- dose" of one the banned phthalate,
ucts and to clearly label products in the interim. DBEP, in every person tested.
Women aged between 20 and 40
The European Union to unconditionally ban all phthalates from cos- years old appeared to have received
metics. the highest exposures, up to 20
times greater than for the average
Consumers to press retailers, manufacturers and politicians to make person and, in some cases, above
sure phthalates are no longer used in cosmetics. the United States Federal safety
standard.
Perfume from L'Oreal and Christian Dior, and hair spray from Wella
and Boots all contain phthalates that have just been conditionally Phthalates were found in 27 of
banned in cosmetic and personal care products within the EU. The 34 tested products (79%), and more
Womens Environmental Network in Great Britain and The Swedish than half of the products (53%)
Society for Nature Conservation in Sweden, in co-operation with the contained two or more phthalates.

The amounts vary from a few parts ment from this unnecessary risk.
per million to almost two percent of All phthalates in cosmetics and
the product's composition. Products other products can add up to a harm
like Tresor eau de parfum, Rexona we can avoid if we get all phtha-
24 h intensive (sold as Sure in the lates out of all products," says Per
UK & US), Fructis Style Volume Rosander, Project leader, Health
Mousse, and Elnett Satin Hair Care Without Harm.
Spray contained high levels of sev-
eral phthalates. "Our survey shows that several
manufacturers also sell products
"Chemicals that affect animal which do not contain phthalates.
and human health in this way This means that there are cost-effi-
should not be in cosmetics at all. cient phthalates-free manufacturing
Many people are exposed to multi- processes. Therefore we demand
ple doses every day from the range that the cosmetic industry immedi-
of cosmetics they use, while work- ately stop all use of phthalates and
ers in the cosmetics and beauty modify other production processes
industry face greater exposure." to end phthalate contamination,"
says Helen Lynn, Health Co-ordi- concludes Mikael Karlsson,
nator at Womens Environmental Chairman of the Swedish Society
Network. "Yet because the manu- for Nature Conservation.
facturers don't have to list phtha-
lates on the product label, it is Phthalates are a group of chem-
impossible for the consumer to icals that are often used as softeners
avoid them." in PVC-plastic. In cosmetic manu-
facturing phthalates are used to
Two of the phthalates found, enhance fragrances, and as solvents
DEHP and DBP, are already or denaturants for alcohols.
banned from children's toys likely
to be put in the mouth, and on This report is courtesy of the
November 7th the European Womens Environmental Network -
Commission also agreed they WEN. WEN is a national UK char-
should be removed from cosmetic ity and membership organisation
and personal care products. which campaigns on environmental
However, loopholes in the ruling and health issues from a women's
may still allow them to be used for perspective. It educates, informs
some time. and empowers women and men
who care about the environment.
"The new EU-prohibition for
two of the phthalates in cosmetics
is an important step in the right
direction. But we need to do more
to protect people and the environ-

Breast Cancer
JANUARY 12, 2004
and director of the Family Risk

T HE MOST COMMON GROUP OF CHEMICALS USED AS PRESERVATIVES IN
COSMETICS AND DEODORANTS HAS
human breast cancer tissue.
been detected for the first time in Program at Beth Israel Medical
Center in New York City. "I don't
think it can be dismissed."
Although the discovery by a British oncology expert points to a link
between breast tumors and the chemical group called parabens, it is not A 1984 study estimated
clear exactly what the relationship is and many important questions still parabens were used in 13,200 dif-
need to be answered. ferent cosmetic formulations. Of
particular concern are underarm
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration has called parabens the products, such as deodorants and
most widely used preservatives in the United States, common in sham- antiperspirants, which are applied
poos, foundations, facial masks, hair-grooming aids, nail creams, and topically and absorbed through the
permanent wave products. Different animal and laboratory studies have skin.
previously shown that parabens can mimic the actions of the hormone
estrogen. That has raised red flags because estrogen is known to fuel Darbre, a senior lecturer in
breast cancer. oncology at the University of
Reading in England, has been
The latest, apparently groundbreaking research takes those findings studying breast cancer for 20 years
one step further. and has long been interested in
parabens but could not get funding
"We have always been assured that parabens could not get into the for this study.
body . . . This study shows that it does. To my knowledge, no one else
has done that," says Philippa D. Darbre, the lead author of the study, "I was told I wouldn't find any-
which appears in the January/February issue of the Journal of Applied thing," she says. So, she galvanized
Toxicology. friends and colleagues in the med-
ical community who helped her
"It's one more nail in the coffin, or one more piece in the jigsaw," gain access to analytic machinery
Darbre adds. and to breast tissue.
"It's preliminary, but I think that it's a little worrisome and I think Eventually, Darbre was able to
there's definitely enough data here to suggest that more work needs to analyze samples of 20 human
be done to look at this issue," adds Dr. Bert Petersen, a breast surgeon breast tumors with high-pressure

liquid chromatography followed by "It would be interesting to see if

tandem mass spectrometry. normal women had very low levels
of parabens," Petersen says. "Then
In four of the 20 tumors, total you would start to move towards
paraben concentration was more maybe this isn't just an association.
than twice the average level. The There might be a causal effect
form the chemicals were found in here."
suggests they entered the body top-
ically, not orally, the researchers Darbre hopes her study will
add. spur further investigation. "My
hope is that someone else will take
"We've detected an awful lot of this up, or that someone might
other rubbish in the human body," decide it's worth funding," she says.
Darbre says. "This is another one to
add to the dustbin." More information:
The Cosmetic, Toiletry and For more on breast cancer, visit the
Fragrance Association defends the National Cancer Institute or the
safety of parabens: "A wealth of American Cancer Society.
data supports the safety of antiper-
spirants," a statement reads. "The Sources:
Food and Drug Administration
(FDA) regulates cosmetics and Philippa D. Darbre, Ph.D., senior
nonprescription drugs to assure lecturer, oncology, University of
their safety. There is no evidence of
Reading, England; Bert Petersen,
harm from the use of deodorants or M.D., breast surgeon and director,
antiperspirants. They are safe, and Family Risk Program, Beth Israel
consumers should not be unneces- Medical Center, New York City;
sarily alarmed." Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance
Association statement;
The study authors acknowledge January/February 2004 Journal of
many issues need to be resolved Applied Toxicology
before any definitive conclusions
can be reached. "A lot of questions
are begging from this," Darbre
says. "Lots of things need to be
done. I've set the scene."
Researchers need to determine

levels of parabens in normal breast
tissue and in other parts of the body.
Also, more samples should be
examined.

Soap
MARCH 2, 2004
New York ( Associates Health ) - since antibacterial products are not

intended to be effective against
viruses.
not nec-
U SING ANTIBACTERIAL SOAPS AND CLEANSERS AT HOME MAY
essarily reduce your risk of getting sick, researchers report. The trade organizations' state-
ment notes that antibacterial prod-
In a new study, people who used antibacterial soaps and cleansers ucts, depending on their active
developed cough, runny nose, sore throat, fever, vomiting, diarrhea and ingredients, may be effective
other symptoms just as often as people who used products that did not against bacteria that cause odor,
contain antibacterial ingredients. skin infections, food poisoning and
intestinal illnesses.
Since most common infections, including colds and flu, are caused
by viruses, the lack of an effect on symptoms "is not surprising," According to one study,
according to study author Dr. Elaine L. Larson at the Columbia Larson's group reports, approxi-
University School of Nursing in New York. mately 75 percent of liquid soaps
and 29 percent of bar soaps in the
"Consumers need to know that it is more important to keep clean U.S. contain antibacterial ingredi-
than it is to use a specific antibacterial product," Larson told Reuters ents. But the benefits of antibacter-
Health. ial products in preventing infec-
tious diseases in households are
"Perhaps the frequent admonitions we heard as children are more still unproven, they note.
valid now than ever--cover your mouth when you cough or sneeze and
wash your hands!" Drs. J. Todd Weber and James M. Hughes of the Larson and her colleagues stud-
National Center for Infectious Diseases at the Centers for Disease ied 238 Manhattan families who
Control and Prevention in Atlanta note in a related editorial. were given almost a year's supply
of free soap and household clean-
In response to the study, the Soap and Detergent Association and the ers. Half of the families were given
Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association said in a joint statement: antibacterial products, while the
"Antibacterial cleaning and personal care products do what they say other half received products that
they do: they kill harmful bacteria." did not contain antibacterial ingre-
dients. Families, most of whom
The results of the study are not surprising, according to the groups, were Hispanic, did not know what

type of products they were using. leagues note that antibacterial prod-
ucts may be appropriate for pre-
For nearly a year, the families venting bacterial symptoms, or in
were closely followed to see how other specific situations, such as
often they experienced a wide vari- when a family member has a weak-
ety of symptoms. ened immune system or has skin or
gastrointestinal infections.
Runny nose, cough and sore
throat were the most common The authors note that any
symptoms, followed by fever, vom- potential benefits of antibacterial
iting, diarrhea and skin symptoms. products need to be weighed
These symptoms occurred just as against the possibility that bacteria
frequently in people who used anti- may develop resistance to antibac-
bacterial products at home as they terial products. Although there is
did in people who did not. no evidence that this has happened,
laboratory tests suggest that it may
Throughout the study, use of be possible.
antibacterial products did not have
a significant effect on any of the Source:
symptoms.
Annals of Internal Medicine,
The "bottom line" of the study, March 2, 2004.
according to Larson, is that all
households improved. During the
study, participants had fewer infec-
tions and lower bacterial counts on
their hands than at the start of the
study, she said.
The current report, which

appears in this week's issue of the
journal Annals of Internal
Medicine, does not include infor-
mation about bacterial counts. But
in a previous analysis of the results,
Larson and her colleagues found
that families experienced a drop in
bacterial counts whether they used
antibacterial or normal soaps and
cleansers.
Despite the lack of an effect on

symptoms, Larson and her col-

Beauty & Its Price
APRIL 27, 2004
OR EVERYONE WHO TAKES PRIDE IN THEIR GROOMING, California leg- the Assembly's powerful
F islators are wrestling with an essential question: Is beauty bad for
your health?
Appropriations Committee, intro-
duced AB 2025 in an effort to
require manufacturers to disclose
Advocates vow they'll try again with a bill to regulate all their ingredients and to ban dis-
chemicals in personal-care products. tribution of any personal-care prod-
ucts containing chemicals identi-
Health and environmental groups are lobbying lawmakers to join fied as having caused cancer or
Europe in banning certain chemicals from cosmetics and personal-care birth defects.
products.
"I think it's a very serious
Their proposal, part of a national strategy, would affect perfumes, issue," Chu said. "The reason we're
lipsticks, skin moisturizers, fingernail polishes, facial makeup, sham- focusing on these products is
poos, hair color, toothpaste, deodorants and various other because they're so personal - you
products. put them right into your skin, right
into your hair, and of course (the
The California legislation they sponsored, AB 2025, apparently died chemical) goes right into your
Tuesday in behind-the-scenes negotiations with the Assembly Health body. It's ingested right into your
Committee. But supporters vow to regroup and try again - perhaps by skin."
amending their chemical crackdown into another bill later this year.
AB 2025 would have prohibit-
"The idea isn't dead," said Jeanne Rizzo, executive director of the ed personal-care products contain-
Breast Cancer Fund. "We're not going away." ing harmful chemicals from being
distributed in California after
Supporters contend that many, though not all, personal-care prod- January 2006 unless manufacturers
ucts contain chemicals found by laboratory tests of animals to be capa- could prove to the state Office of
ble of causing cancer, birth defects or other health hazards. Environmental Health Hazard
Assessment that they pose no pub-
The fight targets phthalates, acrylamide, ethylene oxide, formalde- lic health threat.
hyde and other such chemicals.
In prolonged negotiations, how-
Assemblywoman Judy Chu, a Monterey Park Democrat who chairs ever, Chu could not overcome

opposition from Assemblywoman Rizzo counters that Europe already there is no reason for consumers to
Rebecca Cohn, a Saratoga is demanding reformulation, that be alarmed at the use of cosmetics
Democrat who chairs the Assembly alternative chemicals are available, containing phthlates."
Health Committee, which had and that some firms already have
scheduled a Tuesday public hearing agreed to change their products for But Rizzo, of the Breast Cancer
on AB 2025. Behind the scenes, U.S. customers. Fund, said many Californians use
Chu tried to win consensus by pro- two dozen personal-care products
posing to eliminate the ban and Europe's decision to ban harm- each day and that little is known
simply require manufacturers to ful substances in personal-care about cumulative impacts over long
disclose to the state all chemicals products was made in February periods of time. "It is the responsi-
used in personal-care products. 2003 by the European Parliament bility of government to protect our
Federal law does not require such and the Council of the European health first," Rizzo said. "And the
disclosure. Union. It becomes effective Sept. safest thing to do is to say we're
11. Laboratory studies have shown going to eliminate these ingredients
When Cohn balked at the that chemicals in personal-care from these products until you can
amendment, reportedly due to fears products can be hazardous to the prove they're safe."
that disclosure could spark frivo- health of animals tested, but gov-
lous lawsuits, Chu opted to aban- ernment health officials have not Both sides on AB 2025 point to
don AB 2025 rather than fight a fel- found that Americans are putting conflicting studies to bolster their
low Democrat to meet Friday's themselves at significant risk case.
deadline for pushing such bills for- through grooming practices used
ward. "I'm convinced these chemi- by nearly everyone. State and federal agencies are
cals need to be banned, but I think not currently required to test the
we need to make sure this bill is Neither side can say with cer- ingredients in personal-care prod-
something that's truly thought-out, tainty what level of exposure, if ucts for safety before they are mar-
without any kinds of unintended any, will harm human health. "As keted. No data is available on the
consequences," she said. Cohn an industry, we're very proud of our number of personal-care products
could not be reached for comment safety record," Thompson said. containing the chemicals in ques-
Tuesday. tion, but their use is believed to be
AB 2025 would ban the sale of widespread.
Michael Thompson, spokesman "safe cosmetics that contain even
for the Cosmetic, Toiletry and insignificant amounts of certain A study two years ago by a
Fragrance Association, said AB chemicals," industry officials said. coalition of environmental and
2025 was unnecessary and that public health groups found that 52
"consumers can rest assured that Opponents also contend that of 72 off-the-shelf products con-
the products they are using are Chu's bill unfairly singles out the tained phthalates, a family of indus-
safe." cosmetics industry for regulation trial chemicals linked to birth
when phthalates, for example, are defects in the male reproductive
Opponents of AB 2025 say that found in products ranging from system. Supporters of AB 2025
requiring reformulation of person- food packaging to lubricating oils. include Friends of the Earth, Sierra
al-care products for the U.S. market The U.S. Food and Drug Club California, Environment
would be costly and alarmist, based Administration, in April 2001, con- California, the California Labor
more on politics than science. cluded that "at the present time Federation and Physicians for

Social Responsibility. ings one step further. "I was told I wouldn't find any-
thing," she says. So, she galvanized
The bill was opposed by the "We have always been assured friends and colleagues in the med-
cosmetic industry's trade associa- that parabens could not get into the ical community who helped her
tion and by the Grocery body . . . This study shows that it gain access to analytic machinery
Manufacturers of America. does. To my knowledge, no one and to breast tissue.
else has done that," says Philippa
Jim Sanders can be reached at: D. Darbre, the lead author of the Eventually, Darbre was able to ana-
(916) 326-5538 study, which appears in the lyze samples of 20 human breast
January/February issue of the tumors with high-pressure liquid
Finding suggests parabens may Journal of Applied Toxicology. chromatography followed by tan-
be linked to breast cancer. dem mass spectrometry. In four of
"It's one more nail in the coffin, or the 20 tumors, total paraben con-
The most common group of one more piece in the jigsaw," centration was more than twice the
chemicals used as preservatives in Darbre adds. average level. The form the chemi-
cosmetics and deodorants has been cals were found in suggests they
detected for the first time in human "It's preliminary, but I think that entered the body topically, not oral-
breast cancer tissue. it's a little worrisome and I think ly, the researchers add.
there's definitely enough data here
Although the discovery by a to suggest that more work needs to "We've detected an awful lot of
British oncology expert points to a be done to look at this issue," adds other rubbish in the human body,"
link between breast tumors and the Dr. Bert Petersen, a breast surgeon Darbre says. "This is another one to
chemical group called parabens, it and director of the Family Risk add to the dustbin."
is not clear exactly what the rela- Program at Beth Israel Medical
tionship is and many important Center in New York City. "I don't The Cosmetic, Toiletry and
questions still need to be answered. think it can be dismissed." Fragrance Association defends the
safety of parabens: "A wealth of
The U.S. Food and Drug A 1984 study estimated data supports the safety of antiper-
Administration has called parabens parabens were used in 13,200 dif- spirants," a statement reads. "The
the most widely used preservatives ferent cosmetic formulations. Of Food and Drug Administration
in the United States, common in particular concern are underarm (FDA) regulates cosmetics and
shampoos, foundations, facial products, such as deodorants and nonprescription drugs to assure
masks, hair-grooming aids, nail antiperspirants, which are applied their safety. There is no evidence of
creams, and permanent wave prod- topically and absorbed through the harm from the use of deodorants or
ucts. Different animal and laborato- skin. antiperspirants. They are safe, and
ry studies have previously shown consumers should not be unneces-
that parabens can mimic the actions Darbre, a senior lecturer in sarily alarmed."
of the hormone estrogen. That has oncology at the University of
raised red flags because estrogen isReading in England, has been The study authors acknowledge
known to fuel breast cancer. studying breast cancer for 20 years many issues need to be resolved
and has long been interested in before any definitive conclusions
The latest, apparently ground- parabens but could not get funding can be reached. "A lot of questions
breaking research takes those find- for this study. are begging from this," Darbre

says. "Lots of things need to be

done. I've set the scene."
Researchers need to determine

levels of parabens in normal breast
tissue and in other parts of the body.
Also, more samples should be
examined. "It would be interesting
to see if normal women had very
low levels of parabens," Petersen
says. "Then you would start to
move towards maybe this isn't just
an association. There might be a
causal effect here."
Darbre hopes her study will

spur further investigation. "My
hope is that someone else will take
this up, or that someone might
decide it's worth funding," she says.

Makeup -
Its the Beauty Industrys Ugly Secret
APRIL 30, 2004
OR DECADES, COSMETIC COMPANIES HAVE MADE PRODUCTS CONTAINING U.S. products and use substitutes
F CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS that have been linked to reproductive birth
defects and cancer. The compounds are phthalates (pronounced THA-
for phthalates, as they will for all
products sold in Europe starting in
laytes) and they help cosmetics adhere without smudging. September 2004.
Phthalates a compound in cosmetics products has been banned by the On April 19, Estee Lauder
European Union for its links to cancer and fetal deformities. U.S. health pledged to eliminate the chemicals
advocates are pushing for a similar ban here and challenging from its MAC and Clinique nail
companies in the $29 billion industry to comply polish lines, while on the same day,
by May 3. Procter and Gamble promised to
remove them from its Max Factor
The European Union has banned phthalates from all cosmetics and and Cover Girl nail polish lines.
now a coalition of advocacy groups has given U.S. companies a dead-
line of Monday, May 3 to support a ban. "This is a much bigger issue
than nail polish or phthalates," says
Three environmental - conscious manufacturers (Body Shop Barbara Brenner, the executive
International, Urban Decay Cosmetics and Aveda Corporation) have director of the San-Francisco-based
already volunteered to remove phthalates from all their products. But Breast Cancer Action, one of the
New York-based Estee Lauder Companies, Inc. (which has annual rev- advocacy groups putting pressure
enues of $4.7 billion) and Cincinnati-based Procter and Gamble on the cosmetics industry. "It could
Company (which has annual revenues of $40.2 billion) are the only be the beginning of a revolution in
large, multinational companies to follow suit-and they have done so by consumer safety. People need to
removing phthalates from one product, nail polish. know that some cosmetics contain
toxic chemicals and they need to
Representatives of the $29 billion cosmetics industry (which is not demand that safer ingredients be
subject to regulatory approval before putting its products on the market used."
and which does not have to list phthalates on ingredient labels) are balk-
ing at the proposed ban. Industry Minimizes Risks
Industry insiders say levels of the substance are safe and the outcry For their part, many cosmetic
is all based on tests of animal subjects that do not translate into human industry representatives insist that
risks. They argue that there is no need for them to reformulate their phthalate levels in makeup do not

pose a hazard to human health. problems. They pointed to a 2000 U.S. safety standards and because
"Science clearly supports the con- study by the Atlanta-based Centers most studies on the chemicals' ill
tinued safe use of these ingredi- for Disease Control and Prevention, effects have been conducted on ani-
ents," says Gerald McEwan, vice which found that phthalate levels in mals and not humans.
president for science at the young women (who represent the
Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance bulk of cosmetics consumers) may Some Human Effects Reported
Association, a Washington-based be 20 times higher than average.
trade group. He invokes studies The group's researchers called on While it's true that most phtha-
done by independent researchers the scientific community to study late studies have been done on mice
and by the cosmetics companies phthalates in more depth and to and rats, adverse effects in humans
themselves. reassess exposure levels that are have been reported.
considered safe.
Health advocates, however, say When Olivia James gave birth
a growing body of research indi- Intensifying Campaign to her son Darren seven years ago,
cates that the ingredient is not she learned he had bright eyes and
worth the risk. The decision to remove phtha- a dimple on his right cheek. She
lates from nail polish comes in the also learned he had hypospadias, a
A 2000 study at the University wake of intense lobbying from birth defect in which the urethra
of Puerto Rico in San Juan linked health and environmental groups. fails to extend the whole length of
phthalates (which are also used to the penis.
soften plastic) to early puberty in In March, Breast Cancer Action
girls. Studies conducted at Harvard and 60 other organizations sent a Repeated surgeries have cor-
University in Cambridge in 2002 letter to Estee Lauder Companies rected Darren's problem. But his
and 2003 linked the chemicals to Inc., the Procter and Gamble mother, now 40 and living in
decreased sperm counts in men. Company, Avon Products Inc., Princeton, N.J., still can't shake the
Researchers from several different Revlon Consumer Products horror she felt when learned about
environmental groups say that Corporation, Unilever, and the phthalates and realized her son's
phthalates, which disrupt hormone L'Oreal Group demanding that condition could be linked to the
function, may contribute to the ris- these companies comply with chemicals in the makeup and hair
ing incidence of uterine problems European regulations banning "car- products she used during her 15
in women, testicular cancer in men cinogens, mutagens and reproduc- years as a professional model.
and infertility in both sexes. tive toxins." The chemicals they're
targeting include di-n-butyl phtha- Every day of her career, James
In May 2002, the late (DBP, commonly found in nail slathered on foundation, eye shad-
Environmental Working Group, a polish) and di(2-ehtylhexyl) phtha- ow, lipstick and mascara containing
Washington-based advocacy organ- late (DEHP, found in perfumes). phthalates. In addition to wearing
ization, tested 72 cosmetics and heavy makeup, James also had her
found measurable levels of phtha- The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and hair straightened once a month.
lates in three-quarters of them. Fragrance Association calls the Like many hair products aimed at
European regulation "unnecessary" African Americans, the straightener
Though the levels were mini- and dismisses research on phtha- she used contained a high concen-
mal, scientists warned that their lates for two reasons: Phthalate lev- tration of phthalates.
combined effect could pose health els in cosmetics are well within

"American manufacturers argue market, the FDA regulates these "Chemicals linked to birth
that no single product has been products only after they are sold, defects and infertility don't belong
proven to have a detrimental investigating health complaints in cosmetics," says Bryony
effect," says James, 40, of when and if complaints are filed. Schwan, a spokesperson for the
Princeton, N. J. "But when you're Montana-based advocacy group
using 10 or 20 of these products "The FDA says there is no harm Women's Voices for the Earth. "We
each day, the cumulative exposure until harm is proven," says Malkan. demand that manufacturers act
does add up." "U.S. cosmetic companies are not responsibly and immediately
required by law to mention phtha- remove them from the products that
The cosmetic industry's lates or many other chemical com- we use every day."
defense-that it follows safety stan- pounds on their labels. Nail polish
dards-is coming under fire. is actually one of the few products
for which phthalates must be list-
Federal authorities have set the ed."
safety level for phthalate exposure
at 2,800 milligrams of phthalates With the nail polish victory
per kilogram of body weight per behind them, health advocates are
day - a threshold the critics say is demanding that U.S. cosmetics
too high. manufacturers starting using the
same formulations they use in
"This standard is based on old Europe, where cosmetics are made
studies," says Stacy Malkan, a in factories separate those sold in
spokesperson for Health Care the United States. In addition,
Without Harm, an environmental they're calling for further study of
advocacy group based in other suspect ingredients: parabens
Washington, D.C. "Information is (which are in face creams and
not only incomplete, but conflict- lotions and have been found in
ing. The National Toxicology human breast tumors) and
Program lists some phthalates as formaldehyde (which is found in
carcinogens, but other government nail polish and blush and has been
agencies do not." linked to cancer).
Putting Risks on Labels Health advocates have made

some headway in California, where
Health advocates are urging regulators have added the phthalate
authorities to reform labeling prac- DEHP to the list of chemicals
tices and study cosmetic ingredi- known to cause birth defects. Later
ents in more depth. this year, California legislators plan
to vote on a bill requiring more
The federal Food and Drug detailed labeling of cosmetics and
Administration takes a hands-off banning all ingredients that fail to
approach to cosmetics. Instead of meet standards for "safe use."
testing products before they hit the

Perfume Peddling -
Recruiting Methods Questioned
APRIL 30, 2004
HE NEWSPAPER ADS PROMISE HIGH PAYING, MANAGEMENT JOBS, but the knock off fragrances called
T young people who respond end up selling imitation perfume in
parking lots. As Trouble Shooter Jaie Avila shows us in this undercov-
Scentura Creations.
er investigation, what seemed like the sweet smell of opportunity, Here's how the interview went:
turned out to be a very sour disappointment. Interviewer: "I'm a manager here at
TSI. We work alongside another
"I looked at the paper and it said 'management trainees, $30,000 to company called Scentura
40,000 a year, guaranteed paid training,'" Eric Debona says. He's Creations. Have you ever heard of
looking at the eye catching ads running in San Antonio newspapers for them before?" WOAI Photo-graph-
more than a year. With headlines like "circle me", and "fun job," they er: "No."Interviewer: "They're a
promise "serious money" and "no experience necessary." fragrance company. We have over
300 worldwide locations, and we're
Debona says the real catch comes later because "you don't actually looking to do a big expansion in
see what they're doing' until you're already in." He's just one of the hun- San Antonio and the surrounding
dreds of job seekers who responded to the ads. He says the "fun man- area. So, we need managers and
agement job" was nothing but a smoke screen. He ended up hawking assistant managers."
imitation perfumes in parking lots.
The interviewer never mentions
"If they would have said, 'yeah, here's what you're doing, you have the job involves selling perfume.
to go out, put it in your car, drive from parking lot to parking lot to park- She says after a few weeks of train-
ing lot and walk up to people and try to sell them this in the parking lot, ing, applicants get their own office,
I wouldn't have had anything to do with it." and can make a lot of money.
After receiving numerous complaints from people like Eric, the The interviewer says, "Now
News 4 WOAI Trouble Shooters went undercover. We answered the ad income your first year here out of
and were told to come to an interview at an unmarked Northside office the training program, you're look-
on Wetmore Road. Inside, we noted loud music played constantly to ing at $30-40,000 in your own
create a hip, casual atmosphere. location."
Just as Eric described, our photographer was ushered into an office Eric tells us it's during that so
by a young woman who explains the company is called "Texas Scents called training program that new
Incorporated" or "TSI." The interview says they distribute a line of recruits are told to go out and sell

perfume, and that they should start tude," Warner explains. "Do what each one of us individually, which
by targeting their relatives. He we tell you to do, even if you of course I found out later, wasn't
claims, "They want you to go out question it in your mind." the case." The ticket was never
and sell to your friends and family, paid and Eric ended up paying off a
see how you do." Eric says Warner tells all new $500 arrest warrant, on top of the
recruits not to listen to family money he spent for gas.
We were invited back for a members who may be skeptical
second interview a few days later. about the business. "They tell you Companies distributing
This time the room is filled with straight out that your family will Scentura Perfumes have been
other applicants. Again, the speak- turn on you, they will try to tell you springing up in many cities. Some
er gives few details, other than the that you're getting brainwashed. young recruits have lost more than
job will include lots of perks like They'll tell you the company's bad just gas money, and the hopes of a
bonuses and company paid travel. for you. They tell you straight out, lucrative career. In Phoenix, two
'don't listen to your friends and young people were killed in a car
"If you're a money hungry per- family.'" accident while on a sales trip for a
son you'll make a lot of money dur- local distributor of Scentura per-
ing the training program," the inter- Day after day we saw Warner in fume.
viewer says. "You'll make a hell of front of the office, sending recruits
a lot of money. We also pay out out to sell boxes of Scentura The mother of one of the vic-
bonuses." Creations perfumes. Each bottle tims says her son was working long
sells for $30. The salesperson only hours, and was under a lot of pres-
Eric says there were no bonus- gets to keep $7 to $10. The rest sure from the manager of that
es, and the travel usually involved goes back to Warner. office. She told Phoenix station
driving your own vehicle to anoth- KPNX, "It's basically like they're
er town to sell perfume. "We went "I don't know anybody that taking young lives and just smash-
out for the trip, and they say the made any money," Eric tells us. "I ing them into the ground. These
hotel's paid for but we had to sell mean, not more than 50 bucks here, kids are all going to fail."
the perfume to pay for the hotel." 60 bucks there."
We wanted to get some answers
One claim we caught on tape Eric says the young salespeople from the man behind the operation
from the interviewer is, "I've been are never told that most cities here in San Antonio, Brian Warner
here 2 1/2 years. I'm making six require a permit to sell merchan- of TSI. He wasn't as talkative with
figures. It's incredible." dise. On one occasion everyone in us, as he is in his perfume selling
his car got tickets for selling in pep rallies.
On the third interview, we final- Alamo Heights, which they then
ly meet the man behind TSI, owner brought to Brian Warner. News 4 WOAI Trouble Shooter
Brian Warner. His three hour Jaie Avila
lecture to applicants is short on "We all got tickets. He took confronted Warner, "I'd like to ask
specifics, and at times sounds more them and said 'don't worry, I'll take you about your business. Aren't you
like a motivational seminar. care of this...forget about it. My misleading these young people,
permit covers all of you,' because telling them that they're going to be
"You got to have an open mind, he had a business permit to do it, managers earning 40 grand a year,
what do you want me to do, atti- and he made it sound like it covered and they end up selling perfume

in parking lots?" Warner lies often work hard, and then get
only offered, "No cheated.
comment, please leave."
The Sunday Bergen Record
While a judge in Illinois called from time to time has run this ad.
Scentura Perfume a "pyramid sales Similar to a company of crooks
scheme," there's not much local law who are running a multi million
enforcement can do. dollar fragrance house based on
another companys efforts. People
Aaron Valenzuela with the are trying to make money the old
Texas Attorney General's office, fashioned way everyday. Its the
says they've started tracking way of the mundo. Like the old
complaints from parents. "They're saying the squeaky wheel always
concerned that their children are gets the grease.
being exploited in the sense that
they are promised you know, high
paying managerial type employ-
ment and really what they turn out
to be is door to door salesmen."
For now, all law enforcement

can do is offer the same warning as
Eric Debona, before you fall for
one of those too good to be true
employment ads: "Smack yourself
in the head. Think. Take a minute.
Stop. I wouldn't recommend any-
body going anywhere near that
place." Basically, take the time to
sniff out what's really going on.
A pyramid marketing level

scam of course. If one looks at the
photo, and then reads Scentura
Creations internet site one can tell
right away it is a scam. In order to
compound, and then fill one ounce
perfume bottles the company
would need a large inventory then
filling equipment. As in any scam
the ones who are in on the deal
first make the big bucks. The folks
who come in later who believe the

The IFRA
MAY - JUNE, 2004
HE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN THE FRAGRANCE INDUSTRY AND THE DER- imum skin limits, require certain
T MATOLOGICAL COMMUNITY in the past has not always been perceived
as one of partnership. IFRA, the International Fragrance Association,
purity criteria or GMP limits (e.g.,
maximum peroxide levels), or sim-
has started a series of initiatives to underline the industry's commitment ply ban materials for use in fra-
to market safe products that limit any unavoidable risk to the minimum grance compounds due to adverse
while at the same time enabling the consumer to choose from a variety effects. The basis for codification
of fragranced products. This article describes current projects and future in the Standards is the safety
initiatives. assessment as supplied by the
RIFM Expert Panel (REXPAN).
The fragrance industry, unlike most industries, works with numer- REXPAN is a group of industry
ous raw materials to create its products. The Research Institute for independent experts that cover a
Fragrance Materials (RIFM) database currently contains about 2500 broad range of scientific expertise.
materials used in the creation of fragrance compounds, ranging from
natural extracts to purely synthetic fragrance ingredients. The Code of Practice and the
Standards are both available on
Fragrances have a myriad of uses, from perfuming industrial prod- IFRA's website (www.ifraorg.org).
ucts like fuel, to household and detergent products, to prestigious fine Several documents have been pub-
fragrance products of the fashion and designer world. Since 1973, the lished that in more detail describe
International Fragrance Association (IFRA) has worked to ensure the the process of setting Standards.
highest levels of safety of the ingredients used by the fragrance indus- These start by reviewing the human
try. health and environmental criteria
(1,2) applied in selecting the mate-
IFRA membership is open to national or regional associations rials, and choosing the optimal test
worldwide and has member organizations in North and South America, or tests needed to determine addi-
Europe, Japan, Australia, and New Zealand. tional relevant safety information.
Industry measures are taken to col-
IFRA's communication instrument to its membership is the Code of late information on use pattern and
Practice. Besides general advice regarding the safe use of fragrance fragrance material concentrations,
ingredients, it contains more than 100 Standards covering individual which are used to estimate maxi-
fragrance ingredients. These Standards reflect the industry standard for mum-use levels in products (3); this
fragrances, and are acknowledged as such in legal venues. The is crucial for a proper safety assess-
Standards either restrict the use of fragrance ingredients by giving max- ment. Finally, the connection of
multiple endpoints and exposures the business through patients that marized by the 'Fragrance On Call'
are made and the determination of react sensitively to fragranced list sets out a structured process that
the role of the RIFM Expert Panel products. A status of trust and part- allows for prompt provision of
is published in Regulatory nership certainly would best serve information regarding the fragrance
Toxicology and Pharmacology (4). both the fragrance industry and the ingredients in certain fragrance
dermatological community, and-- compounds which are used in con-
It should be stressed that the even more importantly--would be sumer products.
outcome of the risk assessment by in the best interest of patients suf-
REXPAN is published unchanged fering from reactions to fragranced This procedure was set in place
in the IFRA Standards; an IFRA products. at the end of 2002 to ensure that
Information Letter (IL 649 (5), dermatologists could obtain neces-
available from the IFRA Secretariat As a first step that should lead sary information as quickly as pos-
via e-mail at to an improved relationship with sible from the relevant manufactur-
secretariat@ifraorg.org) confirms the dermatological community and er. The majority of fragrance manu-
this and describes the roles of REX- underline IFRA's goals including facturers worldwide have already
PAN and IFRA in the marketing safe products that com- joined the initiative, with more to
Standardsetting process. The fra- ply with scientifically well-founded follow.
grance industry via IFRA is manag- risk reduction measures, keeping
ing the risk management proce- the risk of fragrance allergy to an The procedure itself has been
dures, but is not dealing with the acceptable minimum (as with any published in several dermatological
risk assessment. allergen, a zero risk is neither pos- journals (6,8) and may also be
sible nor realistic), and offering the found on IFRA's website.
Despite the efforts of the IFRA consumer a wide range of product
to establish and maintain universal choice IFRA has initiated the In another joint initiative, IFRA
and fair industry standards, many 'Fragrance On Call' list. and RIFM have addressed the issue
voices from the dermatological of materials used for patch testing.
community, largely from Europe, A small segment of the popula- The fragrance industry regards it as
have expressed concern about tion that uses cosmetic products crucial that the materials used by
increased rates of reactions to fra- will experience a skin reaction to a the manufacturers of patch test
grance ingredients, according to product. Should this happen the trays, which will be exposed to
their experiences and observations user may seek treatment from a der- patients' skin in order to diagnose
in their own practices and clinics. matologist who, in turn, may seek materials responsible for adverse
Differences in interpretation of data information from the product man- skin reactions, represent the most
and shortcomings in communica- ufacturer about the product's com- common quality of the material in
tion have led to a somewhat position to help diagnose the spe- commerce. The goal of this project
strained relationship between the cific cause of the skin reaction. If a is to assist the patch test tray manu-
two industries. This may also be fragrance ingredient is the suspect- facturers in preparing consistent
due to the fact that while the fra- ed cause of a patient's skin reaction, samples used for routine patch test-
grance industry may be regarded as there had been no dialogue process ing, ensuring uniformity of the
focusing on the upside of fra- between dermatologists and the fra- composition of the material, shelf-
grances and on ideal situations, the grance industry designed to make life, storage conditions, etc. It is the
dermatological industry is mainly this information exchange simple view of the IFRA that there could
confronted with the downside of and transparent. The initiative sum- be no better partner than the fra-
grance industry itself to provide the out of the 26 do occur in natural to assist members and dermatolo-
correct quality of test material; to extracts that are used in the fra- gists in fractionating fragrance
this end the fragrance industry has grance industry; two further materi- compounds for further testing, also
offered the two major patch test als are natural extracts themselves. to supply them with patches of
manufacturers (Hermal and Calculations are necessary, as compound materials in case they
Chemotechnique) controlled sam- administrative cut-off levels for the are not available in standard series
ples of fragrance ingredients free of materials have been legislatively of patch test tray manufacturers.
charge (except for some very rare established regarding labeling
and expensive natural extracts). requirements: for leave-on products The IFRA is confident that its
That project has been initiated in presence of a material higher than active advocacy towards the client
2003 and is expected to be up and 10 parts per million (ppm) and for industry, the regulators, and the
running smoothly by the beginning rinse-off products amounts higher dermatological community will
of 2004. than 100 ppm need to be indicated lead to a real state of trust and part-
on the label of the finished cosmet- nership that will benefit all groups
The fragrance industry has fur- ic product. as well as the end users of fra-
thermore offered to assist in the granced products, whether healthy
selection of appropriate test con- Accurate identification of the or suffering from product incom-
centrations for new materials that offending ingredient would enable patibilities.
are intended for addition to the a fragrance-sensitive patient to con-
patch test tray. A current example tinue to use fragranced products in Table 1:
would be some of the 26 materials accordance with the new informa-
that via the 7th Amendment to the tive product labeling. To take List of the 26 fragrance ingre-
European Cosmetics Directive are advantage of this new requirement, dients now required to be
requested for labeling due to their dermatologists would have to test labeled on cosmetic products
sensitizing potential (for the full list each of the listed 26 materials on in Europe.
of materials, see Table 1). While fragrance-sensitive patients to iden-
the industry is not fully in line with tify the culprit for a skin reaction. INCI name
the criteria applied for the selection The fragrance industry has there-
of the materials, it will do its best in fore offered patch test tray manu- Amyl Cinnamal
assisting customers and dermatolo- facturers all information available Benzyl Alcohol
gists with the requirements of ful- regarding irritation or sensitization Cinnamyl Alcohol
filling the Directive. With regard to potential of these materials so that a Citral
the industrial customer, for exam- reasonable test concentration can Eugenol
ple, this means providing them with be chosen; time will tell whether Hydroxycitronellal
reliable information on the pres- the results satisfy the intention of Isoeugenol
ence of any of these 26 materials in this legislation. Amylcinnamyl Alcohol
a fragrance compound, so that its Benzyl Salicylate
finished product can be correctly If fragrance compound is iden- Cinnamal
labeled for the consumer. Presence tified as the cause of a skin reaction Coumarin
of the material has to be indicated, but extended testing with the 26 Geraniol
independent from its source; contri- single fragrance ingredients does Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene
butions from essential oils need to not identify the cause, as a further Carboxaldehyde
be taken into account. 16 materials project IFRA is investigating ways Anise Alcohol
Benzyl Cinnamate
Farnesol
Butylphenyl Methylpropional
Linalool
Benzyl Benzoate
Citronellol
Hexyl Cinnamal
Limonene
Methyl 2-Octynoate
Alpha Isomethyl Ionone
Evernia Prunastri
(Oakmoss) Extract
Evernia Furfuracea
(Treemoss) Extract
The Focus on:
Section is designed to provide a

background on one of the basic
areas of our practice - A common
condition, subject, or process
which we as dermatologists may
often deal with, yet might not inti-
mately understand. This new fea-
ture will appear each issue as an
informative review of a different
dermatological topic.
References:
1. Ford RA. et al. Criteria for devel-

opment of a database for safety
evaluation of fragrance materials.
Regul Toxicol and Pharmacol
2000; 31:155-181.
2. Salvito DT. Senna RJ. Federle

TW. A framework for prioritizing
fragrance materials for aquatic risk
assessment. Environ Toxicol and
Chem 2002; 21:1301-1308.
Sensitive to Perfume?
JUNE 19, 2004
RAGRANCES ARE NOW USED IN ALMOST EVERY CLEANING, LAUNDRY, where they can do major harm, and
F AND PERSONAL-CARE PRODUCT ON THE MARKET. Since people have
been using perfumes for hundreds of years. It's reasonable to wonder
many of these chemical fumes have
a "narcotic" effect. ("Smelling
why the problem of using scents has surfaced only recently. Good But Feeling Bad, Synthetic
Perfumes, Colognes and Scents Are
Until the 20th century, perfumes were made from natural ingredi- Turning Up Noses," Green Living
ents derived directly from plants and animals, and as fragrances became Your Health, and "The Health Risks
cheaper and more widespread, they also became more synthetic. of Perfume and Other Scented
Products," emagazine.com - March
The National Academy of Sciences reports that 95% of the chemi- 2002} Author's comment: These
cals used in fragrances today are synthetic compounds derived from effects from scents can surface days
petroleum, including known toxins capable of causing cancer, birth after the exposure, and many peo-
defects, central nervous system disorders and allergic reactions. ple do not connect the strong per-
fume/cologne smell on the lady or
We have been brainwashed by the industry to feel we must cover up gentleman next to them at the opera
our natural scents with toxic chemicals. Many of the same chemicals in to their headache or upset stomach
perfumes are the same chemicals that are in cigarette smoke. days later.
You would think the government would protect people by attempt- One of the big toxic offenders
ing to regulate the industries that are causing harm; however, the cos- is perfume and other scented prod-
metic industry is self regulated and isn't required to give formulations, ucts. Did you know that many of
test results, safety data or consumer complaints to the FDA. the ingredients in your perfume are
the exact same ingredients found in
When you use perfume or cologne, remember you are using power- gasoline???!! The scary thing is
ful chemicals regulated solely by the industry that sells them. Just that the perfume industry is not reg-
because they don't affect you now doesn't mean they won't affect some- ulated at all, and they can put any
one in line next to you (giving them a migraine or sinus problems), or number of chemicals in fragrance
that you will always be immune to their effects. These chemicals go without revealing what those chem-
directly into the blood stream when applied to our skin, and are also icals are, and how they affect
absorbed into the skin from our clothing. humans. We humans are all partici-
pating in a giant "lab" experiment
We also inhale these chemical fumes that go straight to our brains against our knowledge and against
our will, and it is making some of the controversial disorder called

us very sick. multiple chemical sensitivity, in
which even low levels of exposure
{"Multiple Chemical Sensitivity - to chemicals (from pesticides to
Environmental Illness," perfumes) can trigger headaches,
www.ourlittleplace.com place.com fatigue and other symptoms. "It is
- April 2002} easier for businesses to enact these
policies than to risk legal action
Fragrance-free policies are begin- somewhere down the line," says
ning to take hold in work places Saab.
across the United States and
Canada. Here are just a few exam- {"Stink-Free Office Mates,"
ples: Natural Health, Nov./Dec. 2000}
Evergreen State College in Many migraineurs are so sensi-

Olympia, Washington, asked its tive to fragrance that people wear-
employees and students to refrain ing perfumes and colognes around
voluntarily from wearing scented them trigger an immediate and
products. severe migraine attack. You can
make your house a fragrance-free
The entire Halifax Regional zone, and if you have a visitor who
Municipality in Nova Scotia has a is either not aware of this or forgets,
"scent-awareness" program that most of the fragrance can be
urges the use of unscented products removed with alcohol wipes if it
only. has been put on the skin and not the
clothing.
Alacrity Ventures, a Berkeley,
California-based venture-capital {"Fragrance Triggers," Teri
firm, not only encourages its Roberts: Beating Headaches, on
employees to go fragrance-free but Headaches/Migraines on
also uses only unscented janitorial About.com - Dec. 2001}
products.
Many businesses, at the request of

their employees, are voluntarily
creating fragrance-free policies,
says Tracie Saab, a consultant with
the "Job Accommodation
Network," a Morgantown, West
Virginia group that educates dis-
abled workers and their employers.
These policies are applauded by
people with asthma, allergies, and
Cleaning the Air of Scents
JULY 3, 2004
Paris - France ing smells that were blocked out by

cigarettes. So you see this whole
movement of having an odor-free
HE USE OF GOOD SCENTS IS NOT A STANDARD MANAGEMENT TOOL. Yet environment. I think it's an artifi-
T fragrance has emerged as one of the more annoying and insidious
causes of allergic reactions in the modern office, whereworkers share
cial issue because smells are pres-
ent anyhow."
the air and musky colognes, often in climate-controlled towers with
tightly sealed windows. In some parts of the western
United States and Canada, church-
Consider Ingrid Scherrmann, a former music teacher in a small city es, city government offices and
in southern Germany, where she conducted regular student concerts for companies have created informal
doting parents. At age 55, she sought early retirement to escape what "scent-free" policies to discourage
she considered the sickening scent of various perfumes and colognes. the use of hair spray, perfume and
scented deodorants. Alacrity
"It was really complicated," she said of her efforts to fit in after Ventures, a Berkeley-based venture
developing an allergy at age 40. "I would attend conferences where capital firm in California that
someone had fragrances, and I would start coughing for two or three invests in Internet enterprises,
hours. I was always sitting in front of windows in my last years. I liked encourages employees to discard
my profession. I liked working with young persons, but finally I said, fragrances, and its offices are
cheerio, I have to go." cleaned with unscented products.
Even the invitation to the
In some ways, early skirmishes over indoor air quality echo ciga- Halloween office party reminds
rette-smoking battles. The arguments basically come down to a debate invited guests to leave the perfume
over individual rights versus health complaints that can range from at home.
migraine headaches to asthmatic wheezing. But it's much harder to win
sympathy for a fellow worker's aversion to Elizabeth Taylor's Passion In Utah, a federal court initially
perfume or a dangling pine-sap air freshener. ruled in favor of a state tax employ-
ee who claimed a disability because
When it comes to the sense of smell, work culture is undergoing an her bosses refused to shift her desk
evolutionary process, said Alan Hirsch, director of the Smell Taste away from a co-worker who used
Treatment and Research Foundation in Chicago. "The best thing for the heavily scented hand lotion and
work site has been the elimination of smoke. But now people are notic- perfume.

The fragrance-free movement repressively small office cubicle,

is at a much earlier stage in Europe, Hirsch suggests the scent of fresh
where countries like the cucumber.
Netherlands and Ireland are still
learning to manage bans on work- But when it comes to personal
place smoking. This month a Dutch colognes and perfumes, he urges
government survey found that more caution. Women, he said, should
than 40 percent of the businesses not wear any fragrance, because
inspected were breaching the new some research has shown that inter-
regulations. viewers or superiors react negative-
ly because they feel manipulated by
But the impact of aromas in the perfume.
office can be profound, according
to Hirsch: "Unpleasant odors have Men, however, should study
been found to induce aggression, their supervisors. The chief may
impair learning ability and create a not realize it, Hirsch said, but a dis-
negative mood, making people pes- creet splash of a particular fra-
simistic and decreasing work pro- grance will immediately create an
ductivity." unspoken connection.
Researchers have tested the Call it Boss Cologne.

power of scents in different settings
like hospitals and laboratories to
determine whether smell can
beused in a calculated way to ease
anxieties or even increase learning
and memory. Some hospitals now
release the clean scent of green
apples as patients are submitting to
an MRI, or magnetic resonance
imaging test. The aroma reduces
feelings of claustrophobia, accord-
ing to Hirsch, who conducted a lab-
oratory study of volunteers placed
in coffin-like structures and given
face masks infused with scents of
vanilla or buttered popcorn.
One theory is that odor is a dis-

traction from cramped quarters,
evoking fond memories of fresh air
like an orchard or apple harvest. To
apply the same principle in a

Offbeat Scents
JULY 3, 2004
RDINARY SMELLS, DALE AIR - but the breath of a The smell of money Dale Air
O Tyrannosaurus rex?
CAN DO
started life as an air-freshener firm.
Then founder Fred Dale, who died
Where do you start? asked Frank Knight, director of the small earlier this year, discovered a lucra-
British firm that specializes in themed aromas. tive sideline. He was invited to mix
familiar odors from the 1920s for
Most of the smells it creates, like Grannys Kitchen or Burnt use in retirement homes. These
Wood, are designed to enhance museum visits or call up long-lost triggered memories and encour-
memories. aged conversation among elderly
residents.
Re-creating the breath of a T. rex for a huge model dinosaur in
Londons Natural History Museum posed challenges all of their own. Dale never looked back.
We spoke to paleontologists, who gave us a description of the Soon museums were commis-
dinosaur. Basically, the bigger the creature, the smellier they were, said sioning smells such as Dead Roman
Knight, who is passionate about accuracy. The dinosaurs would have Soldiers Armpit and Viking Loo.
had open sores from fighting, and rotting meat stuck in the gaps My mum used to say that she
between their teeth. We needed all these features in the eventual odor. never knew who she would be
going to bed with a horse, or a bear
The T. rex breath turned out to be so revolting that the curators as the smells used to linger on my
instead opted for a milder swamp smell to evoke the creatures natural dads skin, said Freds son Robert.
habitat.
Fred Dales favorite project was
Nasty smells are popular Requests for nasty smells come in quite a the Jorvik Centre museum in York,
lot, requiring some unpleasant research. which opened in 1984, boasting
Viking smells as its key attraction.
Ive had otter poo on my desk, said Knight, who created the odor Authentic historical smells have
for a zoos nature trail, alongside the smell of jaguar urine and rotting since become a much copied fea-
flesh. Some jobs are easier on the nose. Dale Air has supplied branches ture.
of British travel agent chain Lunn Poly with the scent of coconut oil,
aimed at increasing the time customers spend in their stores. Sarah Maltby, head of visitor
attractions at Jorvik, said:

Competition is such nowadays board.

you have to think how you can cap-
ture the imagination of your visi- Say youve got help desk staff
tors, and thinking of how to capture who are getting tense and frustrated
all the senses is one of the things they can press a button to get an
you have to do. aroma to help calm them down,
Knight said.
Costly frankincense Dale Airs
most expensive smell to date is Most of the firms smells, such
frankincense, mixed for a Queen of as the aromas of football set, are
Sheba exhibition at the British for pure entertainment.
museum. A kilo of the scent lasting
for a year cost $275.70 (150 Smells as entertainment Footie
pounds). Pitch smells of grass, Trophy
Room smells of wood polish,
The firms team of perfumers Half Time smells of pies, and
identified the chemical components Changing Room smells of lini-
of the smell and mixed up a replica ment, giving the overzealous foot-
potion. ball fan or club shop an authentic
whiff of the beautiful game.
Most aromas are supplied as
liquids and pumped out through Knight points out that football
various dispensers. A new model pitches are rarely mown the day of
still being tested can fill a 250-seat a match, so the smell of freshly cut
theater. Knight thinks cinemas may grass wont do.
also one day waft appropriate
scents through the auditorium, but Thats how realistic we are
said they should be cautious. we find out when they cut the
grass.
Youve got to give people
choice. We dont like forcing aro-
mas on people and you dont want
people going to the cinema and not
knowing what theyll encounter.
However, people can use their

sense of smell to their advantage,
and there are some interesting
applications.
The firm is testing an aroma

dispenser that plugs into a comput-
er and is controlled from the key-

Springtime
JULY 6, 2004
hen spring arrives, opening your windows and letting in the fresh common in fragrance formulas
W air is good not only for your state of mind but also for your health,
as the EPA has found that concentrations of pollutants inside homes can
because they make the scent last
longer. But fragrance residues on
be two to five times higher than outside. clothes can cause skin irritation and
provoke allergies, according to
Ironically, a major source of indoor air pollutants is conventional Harvey Karp, M.D., a Los Angeles
cleaning products, because they're loaded with fragrances and petrole- pediatrician.
um-distilled chemicals known as volatile organic compounds, or VOCs,
that vaporize into the air. As an alternative fabric soften-
er, Kat Gasparich, a Manhattan
"There's definitely a cause-and-effect from using petroleum-based artist and mother of 18-month-old
cleaning products, especially in poorly ventilated areas. As the chemi- Winter, uses a half-cup of vinegar
cals build up in the air space you're working in, the toxicity also builds in the rinse cycle. Since vinegar
up," says Mike Vogel, head of the Healthy Indoor Air for America's breaks down uric acid, it keeps her
Homes program. baby's cloth diapers smelling fresh;
it also eliminates static cling.
A Spanish study of over 4,000 women published in November 2003
found that 25 percent of asthma cases in the group were attributable to Kat avoids chlorine bleach
domestic cleaning work. In the U.S., a 2002 Inform report detailed the (also called sodium hypochlorite)
negative impacts of cleaning products on janitors' health. Reducing the due to its caustic fumes and toxici-
use of volatile and odorous products, Inform concluded, could improve ty if swallowed, and doesn't worry
indoor air and protect health. about stains. "Besides, in warmer
weather, the sun does a great job
Happily, safer alternatives can be bought or mixed from such com- bleaching them," she says. Sunlight
mon household staples as white vinegar and baking soda. Below, some is a natural disinfectant too. To
best choices for various tasks. boost your detergent's cleaning
power and remove odors, add a
Laundry: half-cup of baking soda or washing
soda, two related minerals, along
Laundry detergents and fabric softeners are some of the most heav- with the detergent. For stubborn
ily scented cleaners. Chemicals known as phthalates, which have stains, try a pre-wash soak in water
harmed hormonal systems and reproductive organs in animal tests, are mixed with either borax, lemon

juice, hydrogen peroxide or white Bi-O-Kleen

vinegar. Or mix washing soda and www.bi-o-kleen.com,
water into a pastewear gloves, as 800-477-0188
washing soda can irritate skin. Or
buy non-chlorine bleaches that con- Floors:
tain sodium percarbonate or sodi-
um perborate. My favorite nontoxic floor
cleaner is one cup white distilled
For store-bought laundy prod- vinegar per gallon of hot water. I've
ucts: Look on labels for plant-based used this on my wood floors after a
cleaning agents or castile soaps large party and it removed sticky
instead of petroleum-based surfac- residue and killed odors, with no
tants, which deplete natural rinsing needed. Or use 1/2 cup
resources and may contain harmful borax (like vinegar, a natural disin-
impurities. The catch-all term "fra- fectant) and 2 gallons of water. You
grance" may hide ingredients such can add 1/4 cup of any liquid soap
as phthalates. Look for plant essen- for extra cleaning power, but soap
tial oil scents or products that are should be rinsed.
truly fragrance-free, and don't
believe the antibacterial hype! In
March 2004, researchers at For store-bought products:
Columbia University reported that
a study of 238 Manhattan house- AFM Super Clean concentrated all-
holds found virtually no difference purpose cleaner/degreaser .
in the rate of infectious disease www.afmsafecoat.com,
symptoms (runny nose, cough, sore 619-239-0321
throat, fever, etc.) in homes using
antibacterial productsincluding Dr. Bronner's Sal Suds hard-sur-
laundry detergentand those that face, all-purpose cleaner.
did not. Best bets: www.drbronner.com,
760-743-2211
Seventh Generation
www.seventhgeneration.com, Ecover Natural All-Purpose clean-
800-456-1191 er. www.ecover.com,
800-449-4925
Ecover
www.ecover.com, Murphy Oil Soap
800-449-4925 www.murphyoilsoap.com,
800-486-7627
Sun & Earth
www.sunandearth.com,
800-298-7861

Sweat
JULY 6, 2004
HAGUE AND JUDY RAHN THINK A LOT ABOUT SWEAT. Perhaps A custom fit
J ONATHAN
more than any two people on the planet.
They're mixing, stirring, sniff-
The sign in front of their office building in Rolling Meadows, Ill., ing and cooking up new products
reads, "Global Technology Center." It could just as well read, "Body that let skin "breathe" and boast
Odor Analysis and Improvement." "smart" fragrances that, say, work
on battling odor and sweat only
It is there that their employer, Unilever - the maker of things such as when you need it, according to
Q-Tips and Lipton Tea - researches, develops and tests its Degree, Hague, director of product formula-
Dove, Axe and Suave antiperspirants and deodorants. tion. Hague's teams also make sure
solids stay solid and aerosols spritz.
It is there that Hague and Rahn are consumed, even on a cool morn-
ing, by thoughts of clammy underarms and soggy feet. The perplexing thing about per-
spiration is that it actually is a good
On this day, they're getting help from 28 women who have swapped thing; it doesn't smell, and it helps
their tops for flower-print smocks, stuffed absorbent paper pads under regulate the body's temperature,
their armpits and agreed to spend 80 minutes in a sultry, windowless cooling as moisture on the skin's
room to test the effectiveness of an antiperspirant formula. surface evaporates.
As the room's temperature gauge inches toward 100 degrees, with "The minute you start sweating,
humidity around 35 percent, dewy women turn downright drippy. One, you are cooling yourself down,"
Joan Penchoff, quips: "It's like doing gardening in July." said Rahn, manager of consumer
science. She oversees a staff that
And, like gardening, this is a huge business. Americans spent more handles clinical and consumer test-
than $1 billion on antiperspirants and deodorants last year, according to ing for antiperspirants and deodor-
retail tracker Information Resources. ants.
It's why Unilever, Gillette, Procter & Gamble and their fellow sweat "That's the whole purpose of
battlers spend mightily on research. sweating. As soon as the balance is
shifted and we become hot, we
need to re-establish that equilibri-
um, and that is achieved by sweat-

ing," she said. Humans have been sweating itching.

and swabbing themselves with all
The body is covered with mil- sorts of products to help them stay Hague offers a few ideas about
lions of sweat glands, with two dry for thousands of years. the next frontier for moisture man-
main types: Thermal (eccrine) agement, including the develop-
glands are all over the body, send- Yet it has been only in the last ment of different products for dif-
ing moisture through pores in your dozen years that many of the ferent groups in an increasingly less
skin. Another set of sweat glands important stink-producing elements homogenous America, plus issues
(apocrine) kick in at puberty and have been identified, thanks in part related to obesity.
are triggered not by heat but by to George Preti, an organic chemist
emotions. They are located mostly with the Monell Chemical Senses "You never want to stop people
in the underarm and groin. Center, a Philadelphia based non- from sweating all over their body,"
profit. Hague said.
Blame bacteria
Preti, who studies underarm "But wet patches on shirts and
Although sweat doesn't smell, secretions, has focused his research skin folds that then transfer onto
when it arrives on the skin's surface on odorants (smell-producing ele- clothing there's nothing active on
and mixes it up with the bacteria, ments). One of the culprits Preti has that, but you can see that there are
the odor brews. "You sweat all over pegged is called 3-methyl-2 changes in society that start to
your body," Rahn said, "but you hexenoic acid. Another culprit, 3- make you think, 'Actually, is it all
perceive it in your underarms methyl 3-hydroxyhexenoic acid, about just the underarm or do we
because it's a closed area." was identified by Swiss scientists. have opportunities elsewhere?'
Deodorants that contain anti- "These are two big offenders," "For us," Hague said, "it's
microbials can help eliminate the said Preti. intriguing." Now you know all
bacteria on your skin's surface, about sweat.
while the fragrance in the deodor- Understanding the elements in
ant can help mask the odor, Rahn our armpits is a step toward solving What is sweat?
said. the odor dilemma. These days,
Preti is at work trying to identify Mostly water, but also sodium
Antiperspirants, on the other more culprits in underarm odor, sci- chloride (common salt), potassium
hand, help control sweat by form- ence that could eventually play a salts, urea (a waste product contain-
ing gel plugs in some of the sweat role in some deodorant and antiper- ing nitrogen) and lactic acid (a
glands. They also may contain fra- spirant innovations - say, products waste product from glucose and fat
grance and may help eliminate that zero in on a specific odorant. metabolism). All those salts are
skin-surface bacteria. why your skin tastes salty when
But wait, there's more you've been sweating.
Yet even antiperspirants don't
completely eliminate sweat, said Smell and moisture aren't the How much do we sweat?
Rahn, noting that "the most effec- only armpit issue, particularly for
tive product on the market is about women who shave their underarms A normal body on a cool day
50 percent sweat reduction" and and may deal with dryness, irrita- produces about a pint of sweat. In
that's only in the underarm area. tion, razor burn, bumps, nicks and extreme heat, the average person

produces about three pints an hour.

As much as three gallons a day can
be lost through strenuous exercise
or during hot weather.
Why do we sweat?
To cool our bodies. The cooling

effect depends on how much mois-
ture is in the air: We don't cool
nearly as efficiently in Kansas as in
places where the air is dry, such as
Colorado.
How do you keep your cool?
Keep sweat-prone areas clean

to eliminate bacteria. Bathe daily.
Use deodorants to mask odor

and fight bacteria; use antiperspi-
rants to also inhibit sweating.
To reduce foot odor caused by

sweating, dust your feet with corn-
starch before putting on socks or
hosiery.
Prevent dehydration by drink-

ing plenty of fluids.

Smells & Hell
JULY 9, 2004
uSTRALIA IS ONLY JUST WAKING UP TO A NEW KIND OF GLOBAL BAT- In 2003, the European
A TLe - demands for a fragrance-free environment. Elisabeth King
reports.
Commission proposed new legisla-
tion called Reach (Registration,
Evaluation and Author-isation of
Ever had to move away from someone who was wearing too strong Chemicals) to identify and govern
a perfume because you felt the first inkling of a headache coming on? the uses of all chemicals on the
You're not alone. European market. The information
produced by Reach will be global
The fragrance-sensitivity issue is looming as the new millennium's and, because of the international
equivalent of the anti-smoking campaigns of the 1980s. Could we soon nature of the cosmetic and pharma-
be working in a strictly no-fragrance workplace? Or shopping in scent- ceuticals industries, its impact will
free stores? It wouldn't be as easy to police as smoking bans, but the be felt worldwide including
growing body of evidence linking allergies and symptoms to a host of Australia.
smells is poised to present one of the biggest challenges of the next
decade for governments and businesses. Dr Mark Donohoe, an
Australian specialist on the envi-
It encompasses scents emanating from an array of everday products, ronment, believes the issue is set to
from cleaning fluids to deodorants. Just as people sue companies for the be bigger than the anti-smoking
effects of passive smoking on their health, the day could be coming campaign. "Smokers were already
when spritzing on cologne could turn you into a walking health hazard. in the minority when legislation
The storm over fragrance sensitivity, which plays a leading role in the was finally formulated, and they
multiple chemical sensitivities (MCS) syndrome, has been brewing for were easy to spot," he says.
over a decade, but the stakes have become higher since 2000. "Chemicals are everywhere in
modern offices photocopiers,
In the past three years, a growing number of fragrance-sensitive cleaning fluids, air fresheners, per-
employees in the US have claimed protection under the Americans With sonal fragrances. But, in my belief,
Disabilities Act, which governs employment related civil rights. what will really clinch governmen-
tal action in Australia is that many
Lady Mar, a regular campaigner on chemical poisoning issues in the MCS sufferers are young, talented
UK who appears on the BBC's watchdog program, Face Value has and vigorous people who would be
almost singlehandedly stopped the excessive use of perfumes and sorely missed if they were forced to
colognes in the House of Lords. leave the workplace."
Elizabeth King
Germany is the only country to According to many researchers, Nasty conducted by Healthcare
have a national health policy to this has been responsible for the Without Harm, the British Women's
fight the effects of MCS. Donohoe number of MCS cases multiplying Environmental Network and the
is campaigning for similar regula- since then. Swedish Society for Nature
tions here, but he says Australia is Conservation the latest concern
still a long way behind Europe and Meanwhile marketers have is pthalates. These chemical com-
the US in tackling the issue. rushed to exploit psychological pounds are found in many cosmetic
research claiming that individual products including perfumes, hair-
"Having said that, there is a scents can change our perception of sprays, gels and deodorants, as well
growing number of employers in certain products and environments. as toys, flooring materials and
most states who are already institut- And perfumed products have pharmaceutical products. Again,
ing fragrance free environments on expanded to include scented can- they have been in use for years but
an ad hoc basis in response to the dles, upholstery fresheners and recent fears were prompted by stud-
complaints of individual workers. even sweet-smelling air-condition- ies in animals that linked pthalates
But after banning the wearing of ing systems. with birth defects such as testicular
freshly dry-cleaned clothes, per- atrophy in males, some types of
fumes and over-fragranced clean- However, fragrance doesn't cancer, and their ability to mimic
ing products on a trial basis, they only enter the body through the the actions of oestrogen in the
often discover that all of their nose. It can be absorbed through body.
employees, not just MCS sufferers, the skin (some components have
feel much better. What started as a been found in breast milk) and In 2003, two types of pthalates
temporary policy becomes a perma- ingested by consuming those con- used in cosmetics and fragrances
nent one because of the lift in gen- tained in food flavourings. In fact, were banned in the European
eral productivity." many of the world's leading per- Union. Estee Lauder and Procter &
fume manufacturing companies Gamble have announced that they
So how do fragrances and reap as much and, in some cases, will stop using pthalates in cosmet-
chemicals connect? Some fra- more money from their food ics and some nail polishes although
grance components are organic, but flavouring businesses as they do both companies say that they do not
today over 80 per cent are synthetic from making eau de toilettes. believe that they are harmful to
compounds, a large chunk being humans.
derived from various petrochemi- It is this blanket use that under-
cals. Over 5000 different fra- pins studies, reports and anecdotal These announcements came
grances can be found in the prod- evidence identifying fragrance as a
just as a bill aimed at the use of
ucts used daily from health aids key trigger in health problems such
pthalates was introduced in the
to laundry detergents. as migraines, asthma and allergies.
California legislature earlier this
Other studies have linked them to year. The bill was rejected, but will
And while synthetic com- unrelated conditions, from sinusitis
be re-introduced. However, cos-
pounds have been in used in fra- through to dizziness, depression, metic industry leaders such as
grance products for over a century, vertigo, irritability, reproductive
Dr Gerald McEwen, vice president
perfumed formulations changed in problems, hypertension and irregu-for Science of the US Cosmetics,
the 1980s with the development of lar heartbeat. Toiletry and Fragrance Association
more powerful synthetics that are not convinced that experi-
could be used at higher levels. According to the report Pretty ments prove the chemicals are dan-

gerous to human health. They say

that research animals were exposed
to pthalates far in excess of normal
human exposure.
Regardless, there has been a

call for greater transparency in
labelling. At present, fragrance for-
mulations are regarded as "trade
secrets" and manufacturers are not
required to reveal the chemical
make-up of many products.
In 2001, the US Food and Drug

Administration acknowledged that
there was little research data on
how pthalates and other cosmetic
fragrance chemicals affect human
health.
For further information on

MCS, contact AESSRA (Allergy
and Environmental Sensitivity
Support and Research Association
Inc), www.vicnet.net.au/~aessra or
P.O. Box 298, Ringwood 3134.

Cosmetics & Cow Madness
JULY 14, 2004
FRIDAY THEY CAN NO Cosmetic manufacturers said

T HE GOVERNMENT TOLD COSMETICS MAKERS
LONGER USE BRAIN AND SPINAL CORD TISSUE
stick, hair sprays and other products.
from older cattle in lip- they already require their suppliers
to certify that the cattle-derived
ingredients sold to them are free of
The new Food and Drug Administration regulations come in the materials that carry BSE.
wake of the first U.S. case of mad cow disease last December. They are
aimed at preventing the disease from reaching people, where it can The Cosmetic, Toiletry and
cause a rare but similar fatal condition, variant Creutzfeldt-Jakob dis- Fragrance Association said it is
ease. reviewing the new FDA require-
ments but noted that the agency has
Mad cow - also known as bovine spongiform encephalopathy, or indicated in the past that the U.S.
BSE - causes the brains of affected animals to waste away. cosmetics supply is safe.
Consumer groups complained that the regulations are insufficient, "Although our current rules are
saying the government should also ban the same tissues from younger strong, when it comes to public
cattle and extend the prohibition to use in animal feed. health and safety we cannot be con-
tent with the status quo," Health
"While the risk is small, if there does happen to be an ingredient and Human Services Secretary
from a BSE-infected cow, the consequences would be incredibly dras- Tommy Thompson said in
tic," said Rachel Weintraub, assistant general counsel of the Consumer announcing the new prohibitions.
Federation of America.
The FDA said it will further
For instance, she said, cosmetics include sprays that could contain study the idea of keeping the cattle
animal protein, which could be inhaled. Caroline Smith DeWaal, head protein out of feed for animals, a
of food safety for the Center for Science in the Public Interest, said it's concept it endorsed in January.
virtually impossible for a consumer to know from the label whether a
banned product is in cosmetics. Some cattle tissue, notably the
brains and spinal cords of animals
The agency and businesses ought to put out lists of products con- over 30 months of age, can harbor
taining bovine-derived material "so people can throw out old cosmetics prions, the misshapen proteins
and purchase new ones that are subject to this requirement," DeWaal blamed for mad cow. The
said. Agriculture Department earlier this

year banned those tissues and other

material, such as skulls and nervous
system tissue connected to the
spinal cord, from the products it
regulates.
Among the new proposals is the

removal of the risky materials from
all animal feed, including pet food,
to control against the possibility
that feed containing prions could
wind up fed to cattle even though it
was meant for other species. The
proposal is in line with a recom-
mendation in February by an inter-
national review panel created by
the Agriculture Department.

Fine Fragrance Marketing
JULY 24, 2004
HE LATEST TREND IN FRAGRANCES ISN'T About seductive scents or agency, said companies believe a
T eye-catching bottles. "celebrity face will help." Why not
try and advertise exactly what it is
Marketers trying to lift the fragrance industry out of a instead of making up stories,
three-year slump are signing deals with celebrities, untruths, and bending fiction and
hoping to attract devoted fans who want myth into fact?
to buy
"It will help bring recognition"
It's all about the Hollywood star connection. to their products, he said. "It could
also backfire, if the celebrity isn't
Marketers trying to lift the fragrance industry out of a three-year properly matched" with a fra-
slump are signing deals with celebrities, hoping to attract devoted fans grance.
who want to buy scents endorsed by Britney or Beyonce.
The hope is to copy Coty Inc.'s
Elizabeth Arden Inc. signed an exclusive agreement with pop singer successful partnership with
Britney Spears to develop and market a line of fragrances and cosmet- Jennifer Lopez, whose fragrance
ics. Called Curious Britney Spears, the first fragrance will arrive in Glow by JLO, unveiled in 2002,
stores including Bon-Macy's and Nordstrom in late September. was the ninth-best selling women's
fragrance in department stores last
Singer Beyonce Knowles will be the spokeswoman for Tommy year, according to market research
Hilfiger's new scent True Star, while actress Scarlett Johansson will firm NPD Beauty.
appear in the ad campaign for Calvin Klein's Eternity Moment.
Glow was followed by Lopez's
Avon Inc. has nabbed actress Salma Hayek for ads for its cosmetics Still six months ago. The two
and new upscale fragrances under three names: Today, Tomorrow and brands have totaled $200 million in
Always. And Estee Lauder Inc. has chosen actress Ashley Judd to be its sales, exceeding expectations,
spokeswoman for American Beauty, a skin care and cosmetics brand it's according to Bernd Beetz, the CEO
developing for Kohl's Corp. of Coty.
Raul Martinez, chief executive and executive creative director of While Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin
AR, a New York-based advertising Klein and Avon are pairing scents
with celebrity spokeswomen for the

first time, Coty and Elizabeth that has flooded the market in the
Arden are developing celebrity last 10 years is four times that of
brands, a riskier strategy. A hot prior years," said Timra Carlson,
celebrity could quickly turn cold, president of NPD Beauty.
hurting sales of the product.
But even with high demand,
"Two years ago, celebrity fra- marketing isn't a sure thing; compa-
grances did not work. (Lopez) nies hoping to lure customers in
broke the mold," said Beetz, whose their 20s are finding that they need
company has since tapped Celine to try new strategies, such as a
Dion in 2003 and teen actresses greater use of the Internet.
Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen for
namesake fragrances. Mary with "The 16-24 demographic that
anorexia problems will definitely comprises Britney Spears' fan base
be a hit with pre teen air heads. is far more elusive; they watch less
than two hours a day of TV," said
A rare exception has been Ronald Rolleston, executive vice
Elizabeth Taylor's White president of Elizabeth Arden. "To
Diamonds, which has remained one communicate with them, we've had
of the most successful celebrity fra- to be very precise in our choice of
grances since its 1991 launch. vehicles."
Beetz said that, in the past,

companies just slapped a celebrity
name on the scent, but success now
lies in getting closer to the star,
from the scent to the packaging.
Coty is promoting Glow by offer-
ing scent strips with the singer's
CDs.
The fragrance industry is hop-

ing to reverse annual 2 percent
declines it has suffered since 2001,
according to NPD Beauty. Last
year, men's and women's fragrance
sales at department stores totaled
$2.8 billion.
Part of the industry's problem is

an over supply of brands.
"The number of new launches

Sensitive Chemicals
JULY 20, 2004
Dear EarthTalk: WHAT IS MULTIPLE CHEMICAL SENSITIVITY AND WHAT left MCS sufferers in limbo. Told
CAUSES IT? they are crazy, or imagining their
disease, or making it up, they find
Sara Morris, Houston, Texas themselves passed from physician
to physician without any satisfacto-
unexplainable medical problems ry answers and often without relief
P EOPLE SUFFERING FROM OTHERWISE
such as headaches, fatigue, shortness of breath, and even chest pains
may have everyday chemicals to blame. Multiple chemical sensitivity
from their very real distress."
(MCS) is a medical condition whereby such symptoms can be attributed According to the federal
to the combined exposure to synthetic pollutants commonly found in Occupational Safety and Health
detergents, perfumes, pesticides, solvents, and even some foods and Administration (OSHA), "There is
medicines. insufficient scientific evidence to
confirm a relationship between any
While MCS goes by many other names including "environmental of these possible causes and symp-
illness" and "total allergy syndrome" perhaps none captures the essence toms." While OSHA does not veri-
of its causes and effects quite as well as "20th century disease." fy the legitimacy of MCS, it does
offer some relief by regulating the
Between 1940 and 1980, the production of synthetic organic chem- use of cleaning products and other
icals worldwide increased from fewer than 10 billion pounds per year to air quality contaminants. But some
more than 350 billion. MCS has been called "an allergy to modern life," of the most ubiquitous MCS
literally a physical reaction to many of the common chemicals now offenders perfumes and air freshen-
widely distributed. ers are not subject to testing for tox-
ics and therefore remain unregulat-
No longer rare, MCS reportedly affects 10 percent or more of ed.
Americans. Nevertheless, the medical community rarely takes the con-
dition seriously. "It's oxymoronic to talk about
perfumes and other fragrances that
"Because MCS does not fit any of the three currently accepted can be used by people with chemi-
mechanisms of disease infectious, immune system, or cancer tradition- cal sensitivities," said Albert
al medicine has not known how to explain MCS and so has often Donnay, director of Multiple
labeled it "psychogenic" originating in the patient's mind," writes Dr. Chemical Sensitivity Referral &
Peter Montague in Rachel's Environment and Health Weekly. "This has Resources. In order for perfumes

and air fresheners to give off a

scent or be effective, he explained,
they must contain volatile organic
compounds (VOCs). Even "all-nat-
ural" products give off some VOCs.
"People with chemical sensitiv-

ities have to give up wearing per-
fume products, and people who do
wear perfume need to be sensitive
to the needs of people with chemi-
cal sensitivities," said Donnay. "It's
not much different than smoking;
only you can see secondhand
smoke."

Pirates & Scent
JULY 24, 2004
PARISIAN PARFUMEUR'S LANDMARK VICTORY AGAINST SIMILAR "There's a huge amount of

C HIC
DUTCH FRAGRANCE could trigger landslide of copyright actions. copying in the industry," he said.
"Thousands of small cut-price com-
Now you can own a smell: disputed scent is Lancme panies deliberately try to imitate the
composition of a big-name per-
For some, it's the scent of a new-mown lawn. Others prefer the fumes. Up until now the legislation
bewitching aroma of fresh-ground coffee. Still more may remember the in the field has been non-existent,
heavy bouquet of that exceptional Bordeaux, or the special fragrance of but basically it's like doing a cover
a first love's hair. version of a song - except without
paying a copyright fee."
Whatever the smell that does it for you, a landmark Dutch court rul-
ing could soon mean that if you can bottle it, you will own it. A scent, But Leon Meels, a spokesman
every bit as much as a photograph, a painting or a poem, is now subject for the Dutch firm, said Kecofa was
to copyright. so sure of its competitive right to
make a similar, cheaper version of
The ruling, from an appeal court in Den Bosch, has sent the rarefied Trsor - a "radiant blend of sensual-
world of perfume-making into a tailspin. ity, harmony and emotion" that
sells for roughly 10 times the price
"If this becomes jurisprudence, it has vast implications," said Cyril of Female Treasure's 4-6 (2.60-
Bernet, scientific director of the prestigious International Perfume 4) a bottle - that it will appeal
Institute in Versailles, which trains new "noses" to create the next gen- against the ruling to the Dutch
eration of top fragrances. supreme court and the European
court of human rights.
The court ruled that the intellectual property rights of the chic
Parisian house of Lancme in its fragrance Trsor had been been vio- "Who's to say that two smells
lated by Kecofa, a small Dutch maker of cut-price perfumes which mar- are precisely the same?" he
kets a remarkably similar scent called Female Treasure. demanded. "And who's to say a
perfume is an artwork, not just an
Mr Bernet said that up until now there has been no way to properly industrial product using common
protect perfumes themselves - "just their names, brands and packaging" ingredients like, say, lemonade?"
- and the Dutch ruling could trigger a landslide of similar lawsuits else-
where. The battle raises intriguing
physical, philosophical and artistic

questions as well as some big com- me" perfume - is composed of an The probability of a
mercial ones. original blend of ingredients that is parfumeur other than Lancme
"not only measurable by the senses independently and coincidentally
Kecofa, based in the small but also ... concrete and stable creating a perfume containing 24 of
Dutch town of Kerkrode, employs enough to be considered an the 26 olfactory components of
70 people and books annual sales of authored work as intended in copy- Trsor was shown to be about the
about 10m; Lancme's parent right law". same as that of winning the lottery
company, L'Oral, has 50,000 em every day for 100 years."
ployees worldwide and turns over The court decided that Trsor
14bn. had "an original character bearing For the uninitiated, Trsor's
the personal imprint of its creator", specific olfactory ingredients are
Mr. Meels said that the compa- and was thus entitled to copyright. listed as: Top Notes Peach, Apricot,
ny's profit margins were so small It was careful, however, to extend Pineapple, Bergamot, Green Note;
that the cost of paying an extra protection only to "the bottled Middle Notes Rose, Orris, Lily of
accountant to figure out its past scent-generating substance" rather the Valley, Jasmin, Heliotrope;
earnings from Female Treasure than to the airborne scent itself, Base Notes Sandal, Cedar, Musk,
would likely be greater than the which was considered too transient Amber, Vanilla, Cinnamon.
earnings themselves. The court also to be copyrighted.
ruled that Kecofa should also pay "The work of a parfumeur is the
around 25,000 in court fees and Lancme in Paris declined to work of an artist, choosing from a
other costs. comment on the ruling. But the vast palette of say 3,000 options
company's lawyers hailed the deci- and coming up with an original cre-
Perfume makers usually try to sion as groundbreaking, saying it ation," Mr Bernet said. "A top nose
defend themselves from cheap was the first time that a court had may create four or five big new
copies of their expensive scents by ruled, on the basis of physico- scents in his career - imagine how
imposing strict secrecy vows on chemical analysis and the laws of he feels if that work is
their staff, or even patenting a fra- probability, that a perfume was pillaged by some guy in a lab who
grance as an olfactory invention. entitled to copyright protection in takes three months to synthesise
the same way as a work of art. and copy something it's taken a life-
Test cases time's experience to produce."
"The analysis showed that the
In a number of test cases else- two perfumes' had 24 olfactory But according to Kecofa's Mr
where in the world, courts have components in common and that Meels, "most perfumes actually
ruled that smells themselves are there were only two components of have about 150 ingredients, and
simply too evanescent and too vari- Trsor that had not been used by the about 70% of them share the same
able to be protected by copyright, defendant," said Pieter de Weerd, ones".
and can by rights only be said to an associate with NautaDutilh, the
belong to nature. Dutch firm that represented To prove its point that perfume
Lancme. is a product like any other, the com-
But in a series of decisions, pany says it is busy working on a
Dutch courts have decided that "In addition, the only compo- replacement for Female Treasure
Lancme's perfume - created by the nent that was unique in the defen- that will have "exactly the same
well-known "nose" Sophie dant's perfume was a cheap substi- odour" and yet be composed of
Grossman, who dubbed it her "Hug tute for the musk used in Trsor. entirely different ingredients.

Ash Tray Fragrance
JULY 29, 2004
is the latest fashionable 'It's a comforting fragrance and

P OSH AFTERSHAVE THAT SMELLS OF TOBACCO
men's scent. we see lots of woman buying it.
After aplying one smells like a but, great christmas 'People have childhood memo-
gift for that special guy ries of their father smoking a pipe
or cigar and this taps in to those
As Scotland considers a smoking ban in public places, customers at feelings.
Jenners department store in Edinburgh are coughing up 48 for a bottle
of Feuilles de Tabac. 'It is also a big seller in Japan
and the United States. Now that
The 37.50 price tag on Fresh Tobacco Flower Cologne is another authorities are starting to outlaw
choker for the anti-smoking lobby. smoking, people are looking for
tobacco scents elsewhere.'
Feuilles de Tabac, meaning tobacco leaves, is putting the fumes into
perfumes. However, Maureen Moore, of
anti-smoking group ASH Scotland,
It is said to smell of fresh cigars and its makers claim it captures the said: 'These people must be com-
mood of smoke-filled Parisian cafes. pletely behind the times.
Beatrice Eugenia, a perfumer at London firm Miller Hill, said: 'Soon, we are going to be getting
'Feuilles de Tabac is selling very well up in Jenners. It seems to be a rid of smoking in the workplace so
popular choice in Scotland. you would look a bit stupid coming
into the office stinking of this stuff.
'It smells quite like fresh cigar and is a very masculine scent. 'It is
not meant to smell like smoky British pubs. It is about recreating the 'All it is doing is glamorising smok-
Parisian atmosphere where gentlemen will sit for a coffee and smoke in ing and that is the last thing we
little brasseries. need in Scotland.
'We expect it to be bought by refined gentlemen who wish to be part 'In surveys, the thing smokers
of that culture. It conjures up images of professional men in pin-stripe hate the most is the smell in
suits who enjoy fine tobacco. clothes.'

The folks in the creative market-

ing area must be running out of
ideas. I mean really who would
want to wear a mans cologne that
smells like a bar? Besides being
gross smoking is just a revolting
habit.

Allergens & Label
AUGUST 6, 2004
CANCER PREVENTION COALITION TODAY RELEASED THE FOLLOW- Some cosmetics, and other fra-
T HE
ING STATEMENT BY SAMUEL S. EPSTEIN, M.D., professor emeritus
Environmental & Occupational Medicine, University of Illinois at
granced products, are misleadingly
labeled "fragrance-free" if they
Chicago School of Public Health; Chairman, Cancer Prevention contain fragrance ingredients, but
Coalition; Co-author of The Safe Shopper's Bible. not the whole fragrance itself. Also,
some companies misleadingly label
On July 20, the U.S. House of Representatives passed the "Food their cosmetics as "hypoallergenic"
Allergen Labeling and Consumer Protection Act of 2003," requiring if they do not contain any of the
explicit labeling of eight major allergens in food products. This will more common allergens.
make life much safer for about 11 million Americans with food aller-
gies. But why has no such action yet been taken to protect more than However, while the "hypoaller-
twice the number of Americans who develop allergies from unlabeled genic" label, and other labels such
allergens in fragranced products? as "allergy tested" and "safe for
sensitive skin," have considerable
Exposure to these allergens can result in "allergic contact dermati- promotional value, they can mean
tis" (ACD). This can range from mere itching and transient redness of just whatever any particular compa-
the skin, to swelling, blistering, and ulceration. ACD is usually local- ny wants them to mean.
ized to the immediate area of the allergen-exposed skin. However, it Manufacturers of these products are
may spread extensively, and require treatment with antihistamines and not required to do any skin testing
cortisone, and even hospitalization; fatal anaphylactic shock has been to validate such claims, nor to sub-
reported as a rare complication. Inhalation exposure to highly volatile stantiate them to the Food and Drug
fragrance allergens is also recognized as a cause of asthma in children Administration (FDA). It should,
and adults, particularly those with sensitive airways. however, be recognized that the
Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act
Over 5,000 fragrance ingredients, predominantly synthetic, are authorizes the FDA to declare any
commonly used in a wide range of products. These include: household product "misbranded" if there is
products, such as soaps, cleansers, toilet blocks, sanitary wipes and evidence that it contains harmful
pads, air fresheners and even pesticides; common toiletries, such as ingredients.
shampoos, aftershave, and cologne, particularly for men, and sun-
screens, eye, nail products, hair dyes, and perfumes, particularly for According to recent U.S. and
women; and formaldehyde or other preservatives in virtually all fra- Danish surveys, the incidence of
grances and cosmetics. ACD has increased by about 10

percent over the last decade. This cosmetics and toiletries. While the
reflects the burgeoning number of effects of allergens are almost
cosmetic and fragranced products immediate and obvious, those of
being marketed, and their increas- carcinogens, gene-damaging and
ing use on infants and children, and hormonal ingredients can be
by men. delayed for decades. As such, they
are poorly, if at all, recognizable.
Representative Jan Schakows- Clearly, corrective legislation is
ky, D-Ill., has reintroduced legisla- well overdue for other toxic ingre-
tion, "The Safe Notification and dients, besides allergens.
Information for Fragrances
(SNIFF) Act," to amend the Food,
Drug, and Cosmetic Act. This
requires that allergens in fragranced
products be labeled accordingly.
More explicitly, the European
Parliament has recently proposed
that all products containing 26
well-known allergens should be
labeled.
In a damage control response to

these legislative initiatives, the
industry's International Fragrance
Association has agreed that infor-
mation on allergenic ingredients
should be made available, but only
on request, to dermatologists for
diagnostic purposes. However, this
"Fragrance On Call List" action
continues to deny the public its
undeniable right-to-know of major
avoidable causes of ACD.
Furthermore, the Association has
failed to respond to repeated
requests for labeling of fragranced
products, stating that they contain
no known allergens.
Finally, it should be empha-

sized that allergens represent the tip
of the iceberg of a wide range of
other unlabeled toxic ingredients in

Copying Fragrances
AUGUST 16, 2004
HE COMMONLY HELD IDEA THAT PERFUMES, recipes and other formu- protected? With creativity being the
T lae are the mere sum of their ingredients, and are therefore not pro-
tected under copyright law, was recently rejected by the Court of Appeal
criterion, whenever scientific and
technical progress make it possible
of Den Bosch in the Netherlands. In a groundbreaking decision, the to expand protection for original
court ruled that Lancmes perfume Trsor was copyright-protected. creations, practitioners and judges
should not hesitate to act accord-
The probability of a perfumer ingly.
other than Lancme independently and coincidentally
creating a perfume containing An unoriginal painting does not
24 of the 26 olfactory components of Trsor enjoy protection, but an original
perfume deserves it. In an article
Physicochemical analysis and the laws of probability played a big about the case (The Guardian, 24
role in the decision, which has drawn worldwide attention and reports July), Cyril Bernet, scientific direc-
in hundreds of newspapers, from Taipei to Tallahassee. tor of the International Perfume
Institute in Versailles, was quoted
As Lancmes counsel, NautaDutilh succeeded in convincing the as saying: The work of a par-
court that the blend of ingredients constituted an original work of fumeur is the work of an artist,
authorship and that the cheap perfume called Female Treasure pro- choosing from a vast palette of, say,
duced by defendant Kecofa BV could only be classified as nothing more 3,000 options and coming up with
than a deliberate imitation. The importance of this case is twofold. Not an original creation. A top nose
only is it a justified recognition of the creativity involved in making a may create four or five big new
perfume, but it also shows that IP law is still open to change, and that scents in his career imagine how he
with thorough legal analysis, in combination with sophisticated research feels if that work is pillaged by
methods, hitherto unthinkable solutions can be reached. some guy in a lab who takes three
months to synthesise and copy
The boundaries of IP have always been a topic of fiery debate. something its taken a lifetimes
Complaints such as Where does it all end? and Its only about the experience to produce. A convinc-
money are never long in coming whenever protection is claimed, and ing argument.
obtained, for newcomers, such as colour and sound trademarks, soft-
ware patents and now perfume copyrights. However, it is a misconcep- In this case, the Dutch court cir-
tion to think that protection under IP law should be limited to what is cumvented the discussion about the
currently protected. The important question is: what is capable of being highly subjective and fleeting char-

acter of smells by ruling that the Trsor being coincidental, the court
copyright protection of a perfume ruled the defendant had deliberate-
extends only to the scent-generat- ly and unlawfully infringed
ing substance that is bottled and Lancmes copyright.
sold on the market.
It would be too sweeping a
The court stressed that the smell statement to claim, on the basis of
of a perfume is too transient and too the above decision, that all per-
variable to be copyrighted. fumes are copyright-protected in
the Netherlands. However, some
This was probably the first time perfumes are the original products
that physicochemical analysis was of creative minds (or noses) and
used in a copyright lawsuit. It deserve the same protection against
showed that the two perfumes had pillaging as other original cre-
24 olfactory components in com- ations.
mon and that there were only two
components of Trsor that had not
been used by the defendant.
Also, the only component that

was unique to the defendants per-
fume was Gamma Dodecalactone,
a cheap substitute for the Musk
Keton used in Trsor. The probabil-
ity of a perfumer other than
Lancme independently and coin-
cidentally creating a perfume con-
taining 24 of the 26 olfactory com-
ponents of Trsor was shown to be
about the same as that of winning
the lottery every day over a hun-
dred years.
The highly creative process of

developing this perfume was con-
vincingly explained to the court,
which decided that Trsor should
be considered as having an original
character bearing the personal
imprint of its creator, thus entitling
it to copyright protection in the
Netherlands. In view of this and the
improbability of the resemblance to

Infringement of Patents
AUGUST 24, 2004
ORPORATIONS COULD HAVE MORE PROTECTION FROM INTELLECTUAL- who represented Houbigant and
C PROPERTY-RELATED LAWSUITS than they might have thought. argued the case before the appeals
court, reportedly said the ruling
The case reportedly involves Federal Insurance, a subsidiary would have "nationwide impact."
of Warren, NJ-based Chubb Group; two
perfume manufacturers, Dana Perfume and Houbigant The likely effect of the ruling,
according to Schryber, would be to
In what the National Underwriter Online Property & Casualty News force insurance companies to
Service called a "precedent-setting decision," a federal appeals court rewrite the language in their com-
panel has ruled that commercial insurance policies cover claims alleg- mercial liability policies and to
ing trademark infringement of brand names for commercial products. expose insurers to lawsuits from
existing policyholders who may
The case reportedly involves Federal Insurance, a subsidiary of have been sued for trademark
Warren, N.J.-based Chubb Group; two perfume manufacturers, Dana infringement but denied coverage.
Perfume and Houbigant LTEE, LTD; and Houbigant, another manufac-
turer. Both Dana and Houbigant LTEE were insured under commercial A bankruptcy court, overseeing
general liability and commercial excess umbrella policies issued by the bankruptcy of the manufactur-
Federal. ers, agreed to a settlement in which
Houbigant would be paid $50 mil-
Houbigant had agreed to a licensing manufacturing arrangement lion for patent infringement by the
with the companies, but has since accused the two manufacturers, now other companies, which are now
bankrupt, of infringing on its trademark by not living up to the terms of bankrupt. Houbigant was allowed
the agreement, according to the insurance news service. The company to pursue the balance of what it said
is seeking $320 million and other costs for litigation from Federal on the it is owed through the manufactur-
policies. er's insurers. The perfume maker is
seeking a total award of $320 mil-
In its decision, reached in July, the Third U.S. Circuit Court of lion plus litigation costs.
Appeals reversed a lower court decision that held to a general line hold-
ing that laws governing patent infringement extended only to infringe- A spokesperson for Chubb said
ment of trademarked names and works of art, the online publication the company does not comment on
reported. ongoing litigation, according to the
report.
John Schryber, a partner at Patton Boggs, LLP, in Washington, D.C.,

Cosmetic Ingredients
OCTOBER 1, 2004
New York - tor of the Breast Cancer Fund, a

founding member of the coalition.
FULL-PAGE ADVERTISEMENT IN USA TODAY CHALLENGES COSMETICS "People are putting chemicals
A COMPANIES TO COME CLEAN about whether they plan to remove
toxic chemicals that are banned in the European Union from products
on and into our bodies every day,
though use of shampoo, deodorant,
sold on American shelves. The advertisement was placed by the face cream, hairspray and all of the
Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, a coalition of US health and environ- other bottles, jars and cans that fill
mental groups. our bathrooms. Chemicals linked
to cancer and birth defects do not
are known or highly suspected of causing cancer, belong in these products, period."
impaired fertility or birth defects - such as the phthalates
DBP and DEHP used in some fragrance, hair spray According to the letters
released today by the group:
Letters from cosmetics companies released today reveal pattern of
dismissing health concerns L'Oreal failed to respond to
letters requesting meetings and
This month, a law requiring cosmetics companies to stop using information about chemical usage,
chemicals that are known or highly suspected of causing cancer, but the company did find the time
impaired fertility or birth defects such as the phthalates DBP and DEHP to write a letter from their lawyers
used in some fragrance, hair spray and nail polish - entered into force in demanding that the Campaign for
25 EU countries. Cosmetics companies must remove the proscribed Safe Cosmetics stop using the slo-
chemicals from products in Europe by next spring. gan, "Because We're Worth It!" - a
play on L'Oreal's "Because I'm
"Which company do you trust with your daughter?" asks the Worth It!" tagline.
provocative advertisement, which depicts a young girl applying lipstick.
The ad berates industry leaders L'Oreal, Revlon and Unilever for ignor- Revlon sent the Campaign a
ing requests to remove toxic chemicals from American products. form letter from an industry trade
association, implying phthalates are
"Today we are releasing correspondence from these companies "perfectly safe" a claim refuted by
showing that they have failed to respond in good faith to the legitimate government panels in several coun-
concerns of American consumers," said Jeanne Rizzo, executive direc- tries.

Unilever failed to respond to

repeated requests for dialogue,
even though the company's Korean
subsidiary has already pledged to
remove all phthalates from prod-
ucts sold in South Korea.

Dangers of Candles & Fires
OCTOBER 5, 2004
and e) always keep flammable items at

I LIT SOME CANDLES UPSTAIRS AND WENT DOWN TO MOW MY YARD
went to the store and everything and when I came back my house was
on fire," said Shelly Monroe, who is one of thousands of people who
least 12 inches away from the can-
dle.
have lost their home due to a fire ignited by a candle.
f) and keep burning candles out of
A family of five and a young girl were killed in a the reach of children.
heartbreaking fire. The tragedy is now prompting families
to plan ahead and take precautions. It's a precaution Shelley said
could have saved her own home.
While candles bring warmth and fragrance to a home they can also
bring danger. "Maybe somebody won't make
the same mistake I made," she said.
"It's one of the only unregulated open flame devices you'll have in
your house," said Jim Hock, spokesman for the Del City fire depart- Firefighters also urge people
ment. not to use candles during a power
outage. Instead, they said, use a
In fact, over the last 20 years candle fires have more than doubled, flashlight.
making them one of the deadliest fire starters. And, between 1991 and
2001 candle deaths have risen more than 300 percent.
"Right now, the only standard for warning labels or anything like
this is voluntary by the candle industry," Hock said.
There are some easy reminders when burning candles in your home:
a) keep candle within sight.
b) keep 12 inches away from flammables.
c) keep away from children.
d) always keep a burning candle within sight.

Chanels Experience with Escorts
OCTOBER 6, 2004
TORONTO ESCORT WHO CALLS HERSELF CHANELLE IS BEING SUED BY fume bottle has damaged their rep-
A CHANEL, the international perfume and fashion giant and its
Canadian subsidiary, for infringement of its trademarks.
utation?
"I'm not selling perfume. I can

"To me, this is frivolous," said Chanelle, a 39-year-old who asked understand a company going after
that her real name not be used. She received the statement of claim yes- another company for selling hand-
terday morning and said she couldn't believe it as she read through the bags. But I'm not selling a product.
legal documents filed by the perfume giant in Federal Court in It's me. I'm the product."
Montreal.
The earlier version of the web-
"It doesn't make any sense," she said. She has 30 days to file a state- site address still works.
ment of defence and plans to do so.
In its statement of claim,
"I'm going to fight it," she said during a telephone interview. Chanel claims the Toronto woman
is "dealing in personal escort serv-
The dispute between the escort and the perfume company seems to ices under trademarks or trade
centre on the use of the website address http://www.sexychanel.com, names including a domain name
which is registered to the Toronto woman. On the site, Chanelle is lean- identical to, or confusingly similar
ing on a perfume bottle, which the lawsuit alleges infringes on its design with, some of the plaintiff Chanel
trademark. The site offers Chanelle's unspecified services for up to S. de R.L.'s registered trademarks."
$10,000 for 24 hours, as well as a gourmet dinner-date package.
The documents also maintain
Chanelle said that, after being contacted by the company eight that the defendant "has offered for
months ago, she changed the website spelling to http://www.sexy- sale a domain name, namely
chanelle.com. The company approved the changes of the domain name http://www.sexychanel.com, which
on Feb. 17, in an e-mail to her, she said. As for the offending perfume comprises the trademark Chanel."
bottle, she said she changed the shape of it when the company first con- And that "the defendant's activities
tacted her. Now, she said she's not sure why she's being sued. are causing and are likely to cause
serious harm to the plaintiffs."
"I want to go public with this to get Chanel to drop this lawsuit and
to see how frivolous it is," she said. "How could a billion-dollar com- The allegations have not been
pany be asking to see my profits because they feel my leaning on a per- proven in court.

Chanel says in the documents

that it wants the court to place a
permanent injunction on the defen-
dant, restraining her from "offering
for sale, selling, advertising and
promoting services, including the
ownership and use of the domain
name www.sexychanel.com, in
association with any of the Chanel
registered trademarks."
It wants Chanelle to be
restrained from "using or owning a
domain name as an address or oth-
erwise comprising any of the
Chanel registered trademarks or
any trademark likely to be confus-
ingly therewith, including
`Channel,' `Shanel,' `Channelle' or
`Chanelle.'
It is asking the court to stop the

defendant "from depreciating the
value of the goodwill" attached to
the name.
And most importantly, it wants

the courts to order the defendant to
give up her rights to the domain
name http://www.sexychanel.com
and transfer them to the fashion and
perfume house. The Toronto
woman had offered to sell her
domain name to the company for
$250,000 (U.S.).
A lawyer with Ogilvy Renault,

the Montreal firm representing
Chanel in this matter, would not
talk about the case, other than to
say: "I cannot speak to you because
it's a matter under litigation. The
document speaks for itself."

Complex Ingredients
OCTOBER 19, 2004
OUR HAIR IS DRAB. DULL. FINE. GONE. NEEDS MORE VOLUME. Needs you can get conned by products that
Y less frizz. It needs something. are overpriced or bad for your hair."
Maybe it needs cetyl alcohol. Mixed with a dash of propylene gly- There are many unrecognizable
col, and how about a little butane? ingredients on a shampoo bottle
label. Propylene glycol (which
Once upon a time, people lathered, rinsed, never repeated, and went inhibits freezing). Ethylparaben (a
on their merry bad-hair days. Then, science and chemistry specialized preservative that prevents bacterial
the way folks wax and pomade, condition and shine. growth). Cyclopentasiloxane
(smooths the hair). It's hard for a
About 10 years ago, companies began creating new compounds so curly-haired girl to figure out
they could design products for specific hair types, for curls and fine hair whether the ingredients back up
and thick locks alike. what's promised on the label and
support the $25 price tag.
Now, some consumer groups worry about the mix of chemicals that
meld into that sudsy rinse every morning. They point to incomplete Basically, all shampoos have
labeling and little government oversight of the cosmetics and hair indus- the same recipe. Lathering agents.
try, accusations the Food and Drug Administration does not deny. Cleansers. Preservatives. And fra-
grances. So do all conditioners.
"The FDA needs to define what is safe to put in these products, and
come up with standards," says Tim Kropp, a senior scientist with the OK, maybe most of them don't
Environmental Working Group, a nonprofit consumer organization in have butane, a pressurizing agent
Washington, D.C., that helped produce a study on problem ingredients that helps force the mousse out of
in everyday products. "There are no safety standards in place." the can. (It doesn't harm people,
just the environment, Begoun
Independent analysts and hair-care executives say the products are says.)
safe. They say some ingredients may cause irritation in rare circum-
stances, but the ingredients are not toxic. The government doesn't help
consumers figure out the suds
"The good news is: Hair-care products are better than ever before," either. The ingredients used in cos-
says Paula Begoun, a former makeup artist who writes extensively metics and hair-care products,
about the cosmetics industry. "It's really hard to buy a bad product, but unlike pharmaceuticals, have not

been tested, so there's no list of example, are found in fragrances hair fell out," says McCoy, tressed
products for consumers to watch (listed on most hair products as in a nice, shoulder-length copper-
for, says Kropp. simply "fragrance"). Some studies ish-brown tone.
have found that phthalates have
"The companies do their own caused cancer in rats. But compa- Now she dyes her hair about
testing, but they don't have to sub- nies do not have to list the ingredi- once a month, and uses fairly inex-
mit data to show it's safe," says ents of products purchased else- pensive shampoo and conditioner -
Linda Katz, director of the FDA's where, often fragrances or colors, L'Oreal Fresh Vive and Suave con-
office of cosmetics and colors. according to FDA regulations. ditioner (at around $3.50 and $1.50
respectively) - and very expensive
The government hears about Then there are the preserva- styling products - Texture's curl
problems from consumers and tives, the parabens, used to keep creme and Texture shine ($14 and
watches for trends before investi- products from growing bacteria. $12).
gating a particular product. Other studies, also in rats, have
found a risk of disrupting the hor- "I finally have the right stylist
Most reactions "are just rashes mone system, says Begoun, author to cut my hair and these are the
or local irritation," Katz says. of "Don't Go Shopping for Hair- products that work well," McCoy
"Sometimes people complain that Care Products Without Me." says.
the product just made them look
worse." But even organic products can About 15 years ago, hair-care
have some chemical ingredients. products underwent a revolution,
Environmental groups worry partly due to the introduction of sil-
about the cumulative effects of all "There is no such thing as a icone. The silicone clings to the
the products people use, from completely natural product," says strands, taming and conditioning
shampoos and conditioners to floor Begoun, who uses a dark-colored frizzy and dry hair without making
cleaners. dye on her hair. "Should you avoid it greasy.
products that have parabens or
Tom Natan is a chemical engi- phthalates? No one really knows." "As the baby boomer popula-
neer for the National tion comes of age, they have all dif-
Environmental Trust, an advocacy Many consumers say they don't ferent kinds of hair issues," says
group that helped conduct a study much care what's in the bottle as Alan Meyer, vice president of
in May on chemicals in everyday long as their 'do does what they research and design for L'Oreal, a
products. The study noted that a lot want it to do. division of Proctor & Gamble.
of the same chemicals appeared in "Younger consumers all want a
many common products and no one Victoria McCoy, 31, an interior unique kind of hairstyle, look for
was studying those compounds. designer, has ironed, permed, dyed products with hold, to spike their
and rolled her naturally thick, hair."
"We don't know very much wavy, dark-brown hair.
about these chemicals; no one In the '50s, it was all about hair
does," Natan says. "There was one time I had high- spray and hold. In the '60s, it was
lights and they left the bleach on natural products. The '70s brought
There are some concerns about too long and then it turned out I was the slicked-back look, and with the
specific products; phthalates, for allergic to the bleach and all my '80s came mousse and styling gel.

And then, in the mid-'90s, the num- shampoos, colognes and lotions,
ber of options exploded. says no one shampoo, conditioner
or styling product stood out as par-
Now there are shampoos that ticularly toxic or worrisome. But
volumize (for that big-hair look) hair dyes, especially the dark ones,
and ones that thicken; conditioners were of some concern, the con-
that detangle and others that calm. sumer group says.
Styling products include gels and
mousses, waxes and pomades, For example, it rated Just For
creams and serums, all for particu- Men Shampoo-In Haircolor in Jet
lar hair types. Black as a 9.5 out of 10 on the
potential concern scale, because it
Although you might need a includes coal tar dye. The dye has
chemistry degree to decipher the been linked to bladder cancer, but
label, generally most alcohols - there have been no studies confirm-
cetyl alcohol in particular - are fatty ing a cause-and-effect relationship.
acids, used for thickening and coat-
ing. Glycerins attract water from Consumers should be aware of
the air and make hair feel fuller and the basics, particularly products to
give it bounce. Lanolin and other which they may be sensitive or
oils make hair feel smoother. allergic, Begoun says. People with
sensitive skin should stay away
Kiehl's, a New York-based from products with mint, for exam-
company that promotes itself as ple.
using minimal amounts of chemi-
cals, includes an "ingredient glos- "It's difficult to talk ingredients
sary" on its Web site so customers with consumers," she says. "How
can look up what's in their prod- do you describe a cross-polymer or
ucts. a styrene or an acrylamide? You
could style your hair for the rest of
"The key for consumers is to your life and not need to know."
look at the ingredient list, because
the first is what's most in the prod-
uct, and clearly whatever comes at
the end, there's not much of it in the
product," says Marie-Pierre Stark-
Flora, assistant vice president for
global product development at
Kiehl's.
The Environmental Working

Group, which gave risk ratings to
thousands of shaving creams,

George Bush & Fragrance
OCTOBER 19, 2004
PRESTIGIOUS PERFUME COMPANY LAUNCHED A NEW FRAGRANCE, and ters in Springfield, Pennsylvania
A promoted it through a large advertising campaign. However, the
fragrance was a failure; and the company's marketing department com-
and around the world. Some 80
journalists, from Lebanon, Egypt,
plained because the fragrance, which was intended to gather the fresh Iraq, Algeria and other countries
scents of rare flowers, has a stinking smell, since the flowers wither and from the Middle East, work there.
go through fermentation during the production process, and hence prop-
agate the smell of sewers instead of the aroma of the wilderness. But there is always a "but;" in
Nevertheless, the production team insisted on persisting with the new this case it is "how much could a
fragrance, and convinced the company's president to back it. Finally, the make-up artist embellish a hideous
bottle was changed, rather than the fragrance itself. face?"
The failed fragrance is American foreign policy in the Middle East; These journalists are some of
the marketing team is the State Department, the production team is the the finest; however, they are not
neo-conservatives in the Department of Defense (DoD), and the pesi- magicians. I have no doubt that
dent is the President. they have succeeded despite the
difficulties, but Al-Hurra would
I found myself comparing the U.S. administration's attempts to pro- never compete with Al-Jazeera or
mote a nasty policy amongst the Arabs and the Muslims, after I read a Al-Arabiya. Radio Sawa might get
new report about Al-Hurra Television, which followed Radio Sawa in a good amount of listeners from
another attempt by the administration to deride us. various Arab countries, especially
amongst the target audience (ages
Al-Hurra was launched last February. Radio Sawa was launched in 15 to 29); however, the listeners
2002. Hi Magazine, issued by the U.S. State Department, followed them pounce upon music and shut their
and which assembled some of the best and most experienced Arab jour- ears to politics. Any other talk is
nalists. Former Al-Hayat Washington Bureau Chief Mowaffaq Harb, BS. Some of Al-Hurra viewers and
who works in both the TV and the radio, is a craftsman whose experi- Radio Sawa listeners are only inter-
ence surpasses his age. Colleague Raphael Calis, who works in the mag- ested in uncovering the conspira-
azine, is one of the best journalists; I have known since high school cies manufactured by the Bush
days, and later at The Daily Star. administration against Arabs and
Muslims. If this is true, then the
There is a fine Arab blend, and Al-Hurra only relies on the efforts accurate news that reaches the tar-
of a network made up of 150 journalists and reporters in its headquar- geted Arab or Muslim becomes

doubtful because of the source it million per year. from the reconstruction allocations.
comes from. Al-Ahram had a car- The State Department's Inspector
toon spoofing Al-Hurra, which I do not believe that the expen- General slammed Radio Sawa,
depicts the screen of Al-Hurra, and diture will be beneficial as long as claiming that it does not promote
a man saying: "A promiscuous the policy remains the same; democracy and pro-American posi-
channel which is stripped from any because the American administra- tions in the Middle East. However,
truth." tion has several reports showing the Advisory Commission on
that the level of hatred for the Public Diplomacy confirmed that
There are pros and cons to the United States has reached a horrific the radio and the TV have succeed-
issue, and we try to objectively level amongst the Arabs and ed in transmitting a true picture of
reveal them. Muslims. Moreover, it is not trying the U.S. to the audience in the war
to search for the reasons behind this zone of the "war on terror." They
The idea of an American TV, a hatred but instead; it is only trying also responded to the fairy tales
Radio station, and a magazine tar- to 'refine' the loathed policy, and about it and offered alternatives to
geted for the Middle East indicates changing the bottle, rather than extremism in the region. Of the
that the U.S. administration is pungent liquid inside it. project's proponents is ambassador
aware of the size of hostility against Edward Djerejian, who led a team
its policy in the region, and is Still, the idea is good because that published a famous report on
attempting to solve it. Congress we need to know the American pol- Public Diplomacy, and Norman
allocated $62 million for Al-Hurra icy as its owners see it, not the way Pattiz, a member of the
in its first year ($40 million for the we do. If Al-Hurra will not criticize Broadcasting Board of Governors
station specified for Iraq), and there American policy toward us, we do (BBG), which oversees Sawa and
is a budget of around $52 million not need another station criticizing Al-Hurra.
for the coming year. As for Radio this policy but instead we want to a
Sawa, it started in March 2002 with display of this policy to later form I only speak for myself since I
a budget of $22 million. The our opinion of it. am not conceited to be speaking in
U.S. State Department funds the $4 the name of the entire nation. I say
million budget for Hi Magazine, At least, Al-Hurra is no Fox that American democracy is great,
while the previous figures were cut News and Mowaffaq Harb and his American values and principles are
from the amount specified for the coworkers are wiser than to pro- highly profound and hope to some-
reconstruction of Afghanistan and voke the viewers, nevertheless, day possess them. The United
Iraq estimated at $82 billion. they do not only face difficulties States has always been closer to us
Senator Joseph Biden, who is a with us alone, since an opposition than any other European country,
high-ranking Democrat on the U.S. for the project exists throughout the until we were disastrously struck by
Senate Foreign Relations United States. At the time of blind support of the extremist
Committee, has proposed a legisla- launching Al-Hurra, 400 workers in Israeli policies, which is the reason
tive project for similar stations VOA forwarded a letter of com- behind the current hatred the first
broadcasting in Persian, Turkish, plaint to Congress, because Al- and foremost reason, if not the only
and other languages. The expansion Hurra's budget squeezes their own - one. All the reconstruction money
needs $222 million as establish- such as Radio Free Europe, Radio will not change anything as long as
ment expenses, $345 million annu- Liberty, and Radio Free Asia. the policy stays the same.
ally, added to the budget of Voice of However, there is no truth in this
America (VOA), which is $570 since Al-Hurra's budget comes I began with an example of a

fragrance and I conclude with

another similar example; since the
United States represents some sort
of jug of fresh refreshing fruit juice
where the maker tops it off with a
spoon of rubbish turning the entire
jug in rubbish.
I hope that the administration

(Bush or Kerry) will be convinced
in changing American foreign poli-
cy in the Middle East since it is a
spoon of Israeli garbage, which is
harmful to the glory of America, its
principles, values and humanity.
Moreover, our current opinion will
not be affected by any radio or tel-
evision.

Perfume & Danger Sniffing It
OCTOBER 21, 2004
SNIFF OF PERFUME, AFTERSHAVE, AIR FRESHENER OR DEODORANT CAN a caravan park in Rhyl last year.
A TRIGGER A POTENTIALLY DEADLY
she has developed.
reaction because of a rare allergy
She was bitten by a
Staffordshire bull terrier and her
Teenager Kirsty Heywood risks her life every time she leaves home. family believe it might in some way
have triggered the allergy. When
A sniff of perfume, aftershave, air freshener or the dog's owner later sprayed air
deodorant can trigger a potentially deadly reaction freshener in the van, Kirsty started
because of a rare allergy she has developed. ... desperately gasping for breath.
Contact with aerosol spray leaves her struggling to breathe. She has Her dad, Wayne, 42, a health
collapsed in public toilets, on the street, in shops and in an arcade. and safety adviser with a company
in Stockport, gave first aid until she
Kirsty, 17, has been admitted to hospital 10 times this year after suf- was rushed to hospital.
fering reactions. There she is given oxygen and steroid injections and
her heart rate is monitored. Kirsty of Lordsfield Avenue, in
Ashton under Lyne, has since had
On one occasion in Tameside General Hospital, she suffered an extensive tests at Manchester Royal
attack after another patient innocently sprayed deodorant near her. Now Infirmary and Tameside General.
she is kept in isolation when she is admitted.
Her younger sister, Emma, 13,
Kirsty, from Ashton under Lyne, suffers from asthma and is also does not have the same condition.
allergic to cats and dogs - but the cocktail of medication she takes helps
her to stay close to her pet dog Benji. Mum Lorraine, 38, said: "We
don't have any deodorants, per-
Gasping fumes, aftershaves or air fresheners
in the house because they could kill
She said: "When I was diagnosed I felt horrible. I was really her.
depressed and it changed my life. But I'm going to carry on - I won't let
this stop me." Singer
Kirsty was fit and healthy up to the last day of a Christmas break to "This has absolutely devastated

us. Every time she goes out the

door it's as if she is playing Russian
roulette with her life.
"It's such a shame because she

will have this for the rest of her
life." Kirsty, who was forced to quit
a performing arts college course
due to her condition, dreams of
becoming a top singer. With help
from a local artist, she has pro-
duced a CD entitled From the
Heart.
She said: "I love singing

Whitney Houston songs and I real-
ly want to be a singer."
Judith May, from the chemical

sensitivity division of Allergy UK,
said: "This is the first time I've
heard of a case like this. It certainly
is very, very rare.
"We have seen an increase in

people suffering allergic reactions
to perfume, but nothing like this."
A report earlier this week

revealed air fresheners and aerosols
in the home can cause diarrhoea
and earache in youngsters and
depression in their mothers.
A spokeswoman for the

Anaphylaxis Campaign and Dr
Maureen Dawson, a clinical immu-
nologist at Manchester
Metropolitan University, both
described Kirsty's condition as
extremely rare.

Shampoo & Its Goo
OCTOBER 24, 2004
OUR HAIR IS DRAB. DULL. FINE. GONE. Needs more volume. Needs L'Oreal among other ingredients.
Y less frizz. It needs something.
John Frieda Brilliant Brunette,
Maybe it needs cetyl alcohol. With a dash of propylene glycol, and Simply Sleek straightening balm
how about a little butane? Propylene glycol, phenyl trime-
thicone (a silicone), fragrance,
Once upon a time, people lathered, rinsed, never repeated, and went methylparaben, among other ingre-
on their merry way. Then, science and chemistry specialized the way dients.
folks wax and pomade, condition and shine.
Wella Color Preserve, Foam
About 10 years ago, companies began creating new compounds so Mask Butane, propane, fragrance,
they could design products for specific hair types, for curls and fine hair methylparaben, among other ingre-
and thick locks alike. dients.
Now, some consumer groups worry about the mix of chemicals that The Philadelphia Inquirer
meld into that sudsy rinse every morning. They point to incomplete
labeling and little government oversight of the cosmetics and hair indus- Independent analysts and hair-
try, accusations the Food and Drug Administration does not deny. care executives say the products are
safe. They say some ingredients
"The FDA needs to define what is safe to put in these products," may cause irritation in rare circum-
says Tim Kropp, a senior scientist with the Environmental Working stances but are not toxic.
Group, a nonprofit consumer organization in Washington, D.C., that
helped produce a study on problem ingredients in everyday products. "Hair-care products are better
"There are no safety standards in place." than ever," says Seattleite Paula
Begoun, a former makeup artist
Something to read in the shower who writes extensively about the
cosmetics industry. "It's really hard
Here is a sampling of hair-care products with some of the ingredi- to buy a bad product, but you can
ents listed on their labels, not necessarily in order of importance. get conned by products that are
overpriced or bad for your hair."
Garnier Fructis, Fortifying Cream Conditioner, fine hair Propylene
glycol, methylparaben, among other ingredients. There are many unrecognizable

ingredients on a shampoo bottle about the cumulative effects of all lates? No one really knows."
label. Propylene glycol (inhibits the products people use, from
freezing). Ethylparaben (preserva- shampoos to floor cleaners. Plethora of products
tive). Cyclopentasiloxane
(smoother). It's hard to figure out Tom Natan is a chemical What to look for
whether the ingredients back up engineer for the National
what's promised and support the Environmental Trust, an advocacy Alcohols: Some of them, such as
$25 price tag. group that helped with a study in cetyl alcohol, come from fatty
May on chemicals in everyday acids, which make hair shine and
Basically, all shampoos have products. The study noted that a lot reduce frizz. Others, such as
the same recipe. Lathering agents. of the same chemicals appeared in methanol or isopropyl alcohol, can
Cleansers. Preservatives. And fra- many common products. be drying and irritating. If you have
grances. So do all conditioners. dry skin, be careful.
"We don't know very much
OK, maybe most don't have about these chemicals; no one Peppermint/menthol: They smell
butane, a pressurizing agent that does," Natan says. great but can irritate skin.
helps force the mousse out of the
can. (It doesn't harm people, just There are concerns about spe- Parabens: Used to prevent bacterial
the environment, Begoun says.) cific products; phthalates, for growth. They have been found to
example, are found in fragrances disrupt rats' hormone systems, but
Who's minding the suds? (often listed simply as "fragrance"). it is not known whether they are
Some studies have found that harmful to humans.
The government isn't much phthalates have caused cancer in
help. Ingredients in cosmetics and rats. But companies do not have to Phthalates: Often listed simply as
hair-care products, unlike pharma- list the ingredients of products pur- "fragrance" on labels, these chemi-
ceuticals, have not been tested, so chased elsewhere, often fragrances cals have been cited as potential
there's no list of products for con- or colors, according to FDA rules. carcinogens. A few rat and mouse
sumers to watch for, says Kropp. studies have linked them to cancer;
Then there are the preserva- a link has not been found in
"Companies do their own test- tives, the parabens, used to keep humans.
ing, but they don't have to submit products from growing bacteria.
data to show it's safe," says Linda Other studies, also in rats, have Coal Tar: Used in some hair-color-
Katz, director of the FDA's office found a risk of disrupting the hor-ing products, particularly dark col-
of cosmetics and colors. mone system, says Begoun, author ors, it has been linked in recent
of "Don't Go Shopping for Hair- studies to various cancers. But
The government takes com- Care Products Without Me." But according to the Food and Drug
plaints and watches for trends even organic products can have Administration, the link remains
before investigating. some chemical ingredients. unclear. The agency suggests that
consumers may want to use henna
Most reactions "are just rashes "There is no such thing as a products, which are plant- or
or local irritation," Katz says. completely natural product," says acetate-based.
Begoun. "Should you avoid prod-
Environmental groups worry ucts that have parabens or phtha- For more information, or to

search specific products, go to The Environmental Working

www.ewg.org. Group, which gave risk ratings to
thousands of shaving creams,
The Philadelphia Inquirer shampoos, colognes and lotions,
says no one shampoo, conditioner
About 15 years ago, hair-care or styling product stood out as par-
products underwent a revolution, ticularly toxic or worrisome. But
partly due to the introduction of sil- hair dyes, especially the dark ones,
icone. The silicone clings to the were of some concern, the con-
strands, taming frizzy and dry hair sumer group says.
without making it greasy.
For example, it rated Just For
As baby boomers come of age, Men Shampoo-In Haircolor in Jet
they have all different kinds of hair Black as a 9.5 out of 10 on the
issues, says Alan Meyer, vice pres- potential concern scale, because it
ident of research and design for has coal-tar dye. The dye has been
L'Oreal, a division of Proctor & linked to bladder cancer, but there
Gamble. have been no studies confirming a
relationship.
In the '50s, it was all about hair
spray and hold. In the '60s, natural Consumers should be aware of
products. The '70s brought the the basics, particularly products to
slicked-back look, and with the '80s which they may be sensitive or
came mousse and styling gel. Then, allergic, Begoun says. People with
in the mid-'90s, the number of sensitive skin should stay away
options exploded. from mint, for example.
Now there are shampoos that "It's difficult to talk ingredients

volumize (for that big-hair look) with consumers," she says. "How
and ones that thicken; conditioners do you describe a cross-polymer or
that detangle and others that calm. a styrene or an acrylamide? ... You
Styling products include gels and could style your hair for the rest of
mousses, waxes and pomades, your life and not need to know."
creams and serums, all for particu-
lar hair types.
Generally most alcohols cetyl

alcohol in particular are fatty acids,
used for thickening and coating.
Glycerins attract water from the air
and make hair feel fuller and give it
bounce. Lanolin and other oils
make hair feel smoother.

Dangerous Aerosols
OCTOBER 25, 2004
was linked affected mothers' health.

F REQUENT USE DURING PREGNANCY AND EARLY CHILDHOOD
with diarrhoea and earache in infants and headaches and depression
in mothers. These mothers who used air
fresheners and aerosols daily had
The culprits are volatile organic compounds released by such prod- nearly 10% more headaches and
ucts, say the Bristol University scientists. were about 26% more likely to
experience depression.
It might be safer to limit use in the home, they told Archives of
Environmental Health. Lead researcher Dr Alexandra
Farrow, now working at Brunel
Harmful Effects University, said: "People may think
that using these products makes
Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are irritants, and indoor their homes cleaner and healthier,
sources include solvents, floor adhesives, paint, furnishings and clean- but being cleaner may not necessar-
ing products. ily mean being healthier.
The researchers followed the health and development of 14,000 "Air fresheners combined with
children since before birth. other aerosol and household prod-
ucts contribute to a complex mix-
When they looked at levels of VOCs in the homes of 170 of the chil- ture of chemicals and a build-up of
dren and interviewed 10,000 of the mothers about their use of air fresh- VOCs in the home environment."
eners and aerosols, the scientists found some concerning trends.
Mounting Evidence
Being cleaner may not necessarily mean being healthier Dr
Alexandra Farrow, lead researcherIn homes where air fresheners - She said pregnant women and
including sticks, sprays and aerosols - were used every day rather than babies up to six months might be
once a week, 32% more babies had diarrhoea. particularly susceptible to the
effects of this, because they spend
The babies were also more likely to experience earache. around 80% of their time at home.
Daily use of aerosols such as polish, deodorant and hairspray was "There may also be implica-
associated with a 30% increase in infant cases of diarrhoea, and also tions for other groups who are at

home a good deal, such as the eld- to see whether people are following
erly. advice and whether additional
advice may be required."
"More research is needed, but
in the meantime, it might be safer The research was funded by
to limit use of air fresheners and government bodies and charitable
aerosols in the home. Squeezing a research organisations, including
lemon is just as effective at fresh- the Medical Research Council and
ening the air." the Wellcome Trust, as well as
commercial sponsors and US
Professor Roy Harrison, profes- research institutes.
sor of environmental health at
Birmingham University, said:
"There is a body of research on
VOCs in the indoor environment
which links them with those kinds
of symptoms - headaches and not
feeling so good."
But he said: "The mechanism is

not very well understood."
Most of the products could be

regarded as non-essential and,
therefore, might be avoided, he
added.
Dr Chris Flower, of the

Cosmetics, Toiletries and
Perfumery Association, said:
"Cosmetic products such as hair-
sprays and deodorants are required
by legislation to be safe in normal
use.
"Aerosol forms of these prod-

ucts are labelled with advice that
they should not be used in confined
spaces and current evidence shows
these products are safe.
"We shall be looking into the

new research by Bristol University

Household Fragrance & Environmental Dangers
OCTOBER 29, 2004
removed and washed.

T HOSE FRAGRANT SOAPS AND SHAMPOOS WE CASUALLY RINSE DOWN
THE DRAIN MAY BE CAUSING LONG-TERM DAMAGE to aquatic wildlife
downstream by interfering with the animals' natural ability to eliminate To see if this short-term expo-
toxins from their system, according to a new Stanford University study sure affected the animal's defense
published by the National Institutes of Health (NIH). system, the gills were placed in
musk-free water with a special red
Writing in the NIH journal Environmental Health Perspect-ives, fluorescent dye. Under normal con-
Stanford scientists described the biological damage that occurred when ditions, an efflux transporter will
they exposed California mussels to synthetic muskschemical com- recognize the dye as a foreign sub-
pounds that are used to enhance the smell of detergents, soaps, sham- stance and remove it. But if some-
poos, air fresheners, deodorants, cosmetics and other personal care thing interferes with the transporter,
products. the dye will accumulate inside the
cell, which causes it to appear
"Synthetic musks can be easily produced and are very cheap," said brighter. That's exactly what the
Stanford postdoctoral fellow Till Luckenbach, lead author of the study. researchers observed, even two
"They get into the environment through sewers and drains, but waste- days after the gills had been washed
water treatment plants are not equipped to handle them." clean.
In their study, Luckenbach and Stanford biologist David Epel tested "What we found is that musks
six synthetic musk compounds widely used by industry. Their goal was are harmful in the sense that they
to determine if these artificial fragrances affected the animals' "xenobi- compromise the defense system
otic defense system" a biochemical process that allows cells to get rid and let other chemicals in that
of poisons and other foreign substances. could be more harmful," Epel said.
"The amazing thing is that, even if
"This is the first line of defense used by all cells," said Epel, the Jane you wash the chemical fragrance
and Marshall Steel Jr. Professor of Marine Sciences. "It consists of a away, there's a long-term effect up
special protein, called an efflux transporter, that's embedded in the cell to 48 hours after removal."
membrane and pumps out toxins that get into the cell."
These results indicate that even
For the experiment, gills were carefully sliced from living mussels short-term events, such as chemical
and placed in water containing very low concentrations of synthetic spills and storm-water runoffs,
musks 300 parts per billion or less. After two hours, the gills were could have long-term effects,

Luckenbach added. milk and blood. Germany has ographic and Atmospheric
placed a voluntary ban on musk Administration, the California Sea
The study also has implications xylene, although it's still widely Grant College and the California
for human health. "People have used in the United States, except in State Resources Agency.
these same transporters in the lipsticks and other products that are
blood-brain barrier, the placenta applied orally. One problem for
and the intestines," Luckenbach consumers is that, when a product
explained. "Perhaps exposure to has the word "fragrance" on the
chemical fragrances could compro- label, the actual chemical com-
mise the transporters, making it pound is rarely listed.
easier for pollutants to enter the
brain, for example." "The musks are an example, but
this group of pharmaceuticals and
Concerns about the environ- personal care products consists of
mental impact of drug products and thousands of different chemicals,"
synthetic fragrances first surfaced Luckenbach said.
about 10 years ago in Japan and
Europe. "They were picking up "One of the assumptions about
pharmaceutical and personal care these chemicals is that they are
products in the wastewater flowing regarded as environmentally low
into rivers," Epel said. "In Japan risk compared to pesticides and oil
they found them in mussels and fish products," Epel noted. "This is the
and discovered they are somewhat first study to show that some per-
persistent - they don't break down." sonal care products in water do
have an effect, even in low concen-
Pharmaceuticals, such as estro- trations. Our results indicate that
gens, antibiotics and antidepres- the effects on the first line of
sants, often pass through the body defense might be irreversible or
without being fully metabolized, continue long after the event. It's a
Luckenbach noted. "A lot of them warning sign. It's a smoking gun.
are just dumped into the toilet, and Are there other chemicals out there
that's how they get into the environ- that have similar long-term effects?
ment." Could these be harming these
defense systems in aquatic organ-
Worldwide production of syn- isms? And could they be having
thetic musks increased from about similar effects in humans?"
7,000 to 8,000 tons a year between
1987 and 1996, the authors wrote. The experiment was conducted
Use of musk xylene, the most com- in Epel's laboratory at Stanford's
mon industrial fragrance, was pro- Hopkins Marine Station in Pacific
hibited in Japan several years ago Grove, Calif., and was funded by
after traces of the compound were the German Academic Exchange
found in human body fat, breast Service, the National Ocean-

Nosey Women
OCTOBER 31, 2004
LENMORANGIES NEW MASTER BLENDER says she was born to the job, and going home smelling of
G writes Rhiannon Batten. formaldehyde that I could not con-
tinue so I changed to chemistry
"Lemons, oranges, bergamot to cinnamon, ahh, mandarin, peaches,
vanilla Rachel Barrie, Glenmorangies chief nose, is swirling 10-year- It was when Barrie graduated
old single malt round her glass. Its very reminiscent of peach melba, and joined the analytical chemistry
lemon meringue, pear drops, lemongrass. department of the brewers Scottish
& Newcastle that her nose came
In an industry that makes a virtue of its heritage and traditions, into its own. While working on the
Barrie is something of a novelty. First Glenmorangie turned its back on companys sensory panel, checking
86 years of family ownership and sold out to French luxury goods giant different brews for quality and con-
LMVH. Then it named 35-year-old Rachel Barrie as its master blender. sistency, it dawned on her that she
could pick up subtle differences in
The first woman to break through the glass ceiling of the whisky the aromas of the beers.
blending industry, she claims that she has been made very welcome by
everyone, from the Macdonald family who were, pre-LMVH, the The most surprising thing about
majority shareholders, to the blokey veterans working the stills. Barries CV is that it took her so
long to discover her vocation. And
I do think there are more opportunities in the workplace generally anyone who has heard her eulogise
these days, she says, shrugging off what less broad-minded industry about whisky is in no doubt that she
bods would see as casting against type. If you have the ability, youre has found it at last.
going to get the job you want. Traditionally people would have left
school and started off in a distillery, slowly working their way up, but When you swirl the glass you
there are more graduates coming into the industry now. There are a lot release the bouquet. Instantly you
more females than there were 20 years ago, so the workforce in gener- notice the scent. Its a wonderful
al is a lot more balanced. mix, she raves. Very evocative a
French perfumier found 26 aromas
Small, neatly bobbed and energetic, Barrie started off in beer before in one glass, she adds, drifting off.
moving to whisky. Her career took a circuitous route; although she grew
up in the prime distilling territory of Inverurie, blending was never real- All this before shes tasted a
ly a vocation she had considered. If you did well at school it was med- drop.
icine or law. I chose medicine but I realised after stints doing anatomy

If the ability to pick such a Im also a pianist and on my piano

spectrum of scents from a single at home there are about 90 keys on
dram seems unlikely, it is. Barrie the keyboard.
has one of the most sophisticated
noses in the business. The ability The 10-year-old Glen morang-
is innate, she insists. Youre ie is like the lilting top notes, like a
either born with it or youre not. Chopin waltz. It never rests in one
place. The Ardbeg is more like the
It looks as if the industry has deep notes, chocolate. Its more like
been missing a trick for all these the bass, or cellos. Then theres
years; women tend to have a more Bailie Nicol Jarvie, our blended
defined sense of smell than men. Scotch. With the different malts
Experience can have an effect on and grains, it sits in the middle of
how you develop the sense, she your palate, and the middle of my
explains. If youre used to using keyboard.
perfume, cooking, aromatherapy,
then you may be more tuned in to
your sense of smell.
Its the most complex spirit in

the world, there are about 90 aro-
matics, she continues. We have a
fantastic tool, which we call the
flavour wheel. It looks like a
Dulux paint chart, but for smells.
On the outer circle we have 90

different aromas. You could be
describing anything from treacle to
smoked fish to vanilla. It could be
something specific, Victoria plum
skins or green apples. Then you
work your way in to the centre and
you know that it belongs to one cat-
egory: estuary, fruity or floral.
These more generic categories

are essential, allowing blenders
throughout the industry to speak the
same language. But Barrie has a
more personal take on the flavour
wheel too. For me the aromatics
are like the notes on a keyboard.

Fragrances
NOVEMBER 4, 2004
Paris - In 1977 he moved to Jidda to

work in the family construction
company, but bickering among his
ELIZABETH TAYLOR, JENNIFER LOPEZ, BRITNEY SPEARS half brothers drove him away in
M OVE OVER
AND ALL THE OTHERS WHO HAVE TRADED ON THEIR FAME to sell a
perfume. There will soon be a new name on the counter: Yeslam.
1984. He moved to Switzerland,
where he started an investment
company, helped sponsor the
The recognition factor may seem low, but it is probably better than Geneva Film Festival and financed
Bin Ladin, the marketer's nightmare first proposed as a name for the several moneylosing films. He suf-
scent. fered in the market downturn in
2000 and by 2001 was looking for a
Back in pre-9/11 days, Yeslam Bin Ladin, a half brother of the new direction.
world's most wanted terrorist, hatched the idea of bringing out the per-
fume and a line of other luxury items under the Bin Ladin brand. (Most "When stocks slowed down we
of the family favors that spelling, he says, to the terrorist's "bin Laden.") thought we needed to diversify," he
said. His idea was to create a luxu-
"Bin Ladin is a respected name that has been around for many ry brand using the Bin Ladin name,
years," especially, of course, in the Middle East, Mr. Bin Ladin, a 54- still respected because of his
year-old Saudi citizen, explained in the ornate lounge of the Plaza father's success but already grow-
Athne Hotel here this week. ing in notoriety thanks to his half
brother's terrorist activities.
Subsequent events led him to choose his more discreet first name
instead, and with Yeslam, "a profound yet gentle message in a bottle for He registered Bin Ladin as a
all who long for inner peace," according to the advertising copy, he trademark in Switzerland in March
hopes to prove that not all Bin Ladins are alike. 2001, and in many other countries
across Europe and Southeast Asia.
Mr. Bin Ladin grew up as a sort of anti-Osama, steeped in material- He intended to register it in the
ism while his distant half brother steered toward the spiritual and aus- United States, but Sept. 11 quashed
tere. He is a man whose main accomplishments are mostly recreative: any hope of using the family name.
he paints, skis and pilots his own plane and is a ranked tennis player in
Switzerland. He drives a Porsche. Now he says it is time resume
the project. "I waited three years

and decided I have to continue my plane crash when Yeslam was a gel, even a deodorant.
life," he said. "It has nothing to do teenager. He and the other Bin
with politics." Ladin heirs eventually got about "It was fascinating to come up
$40 million apiece from the estate. with a fragrance," he said. "I have a
As an alternative to the Bin nose, who is Italian and lives in
Ladin brand, he switched to his ini- During the Persian Gulf war of Grasse." Translated to the vernacu-
tials, YB, and his first name, which 1991, some of that money was lar, that means he has hired an
means "to bless" or "to protect" in briefly divided among Swiss bank Italian fragrance expert in the
Arabic. The lettering on the bottle accounts, over which Mr. Bin Ladin southern French city of Grasse, the
is a facsimile of his handwriting. had power of attorney. He also Mecca of perfume manufacturers.
manages some of the family's
He pulls the cap off a bottle of financial affairs through offshore Mr. Bin Ladin says the perfume
Yeslam for women, sprays some on corporations. is twice as expensive to produce as
his palm and rubs it vigorously the average scent because of its
between his hands and across his As a result of that financial con- concentration of natural floral
cheeks. He is producing a heavier nection to Osama bin Laden, extracts, including narcissus. He
cedar and sandalwood scent for French and Swiss investigators plans to sell it for about $30 an
men but prefers the feminine ver- have questioned him about possible ounce.
sion. financial links to Al Qaeda. He says
he has none. He recently introduced the per-
"I have lots of perfume, bottles fume at an industry convention in
and bottles," he exclaims, his voice Mr. Bin Ladin says he has not Cannes and hopes to have 60,000
rising briefly from its soft-spoken been back to Saudi Arabia since bottles in European and Middle
perch to produce a singular flap of 1987 and has not seen Osama since Eastern stores by the end of the
enthusiasm. But he admits that the about that time. The family dis- year.
real motivation for coming out with owned its terrorist kinsman after he
a scent of his own is that "the mar- refused to abandon his campaign "I would love to launch it in the
gins are huge." against the Saudi royal family, States," he said, then asked with a
which is responsible for making the tentative smile. "What do you think
Mr. Bin Ladin grew up in Bin Ladin clan rich. the reaction would be?"
boarding schools in Lebanon and
Sweden and graduated from the The Yeslam perfume, Mr. Bin
University of Southern California Ladin explains, was developed
with a degree in business adminis- from a century-old French formula
tration. He said he barely knew his that was marketed in the 1920's as
father and even less his notorious Air de Paris.
half brother. Each of Muhammad
bin Ladin's 23 wives had her own No existing Middle Eastern
home, and most of his 54 children brands can compare to the brands in
relate to one another more as Europe, Mr. Bin Ladin said, spin-
cousins than as siblings. ning a diaphanous vision of Yeslam
labels on everything from expen-
The elder Bin Ladin died in a sive silk scarves to fancy shower

Lost of Smell do to Age
NOVEMBER 6, 2004
'VE headaches that are often triggered

I READ THAT YOUR NOSE CONTINUES TO GROW THROUGHOUT YOUR
LIFETIME.
If that is true, I wonder why it is that as your nose gets larg-
er your sense of smell lessens.
by any sticky-sweet smell. Most
perfumes qualify.
I would change seats in choir to
"Your sense of smell declines by about 10 percent between age 40 get away from the strong-smelling
and 60, and by as much as 50 percent more by age 65," said Dr. Alan ladies. As this became more and
Hirsch, neurological director of the Smell and Taste Treatment and more necessary, I noticed that most
Research Foundation in Chicago. of the women who tended to daub
themselves liberally with perfume
While Hirsch's credentials lend credence to these statistics, person- also had gray hair (or roots) and
al anecdotal evidence is what first alerted me to this probability. lots of wrinkles.
I have sung in church choirs since I was old enough to be tolerated. Thus, when I read that the sense
I sat by many women during those years. Scores of them wore perfume. of smell declines dramatically
between ages 60 and 65, I had no
My nose has been assaulted by every variety of fragrance, from trouble believing this fact.
cheap dollar store selections to ones that are priced by the ounce and are
evidently as precious as gold. I am hoping that as I age my
declining odor detection capacity
I used to giggle with my teenage friends about the older women in will be paralleled by a decrease in
the choir, who we could smell from across the room. Of course, to a migraines. After all, there should be
teenager, anyone over 28 was old and I do not remember whether the some benefit to the loss of smell.
women of loud fragrance were actually seniors.
Of course there are definite lia-
At the time, we were more amused by the archaic nature of their fra- bilities. As I age, I am more liable
grance than by the fact that we could smell it from some distance away. to die from asphyxiation or in a gas
We did occasionally joke that one lady must be a klutz who habitually explosion if my sniffer is less effec-
spilled her perfume as she was getting ready for church. tive. Currently I am highly sensi-
tive to the smell of natural gas. I
As I got older, I began to notice that mature women seemed to have can walk into a home and tell if the
a heavier hand when it came to applying fragrance. I paid more atten- space heater has a small, non-lethal
tion at this juncture in my life because I had developed migraine leak. My nose tells me. Most peo-

ple can rely on their noses to give a said studies show that if seniors are
similar warning, at least before the exposed several times a day to a
leak reaches lethal levels. smell they cannot detect, they will
develop the ability to smell it with-
I am also more likely to con- in three months.
tract food poisoning, but not
because I will necessarily become I think that I will just start
more negligent. Instead, a faulty throwing away food as I get older.
nose is less prone to warn me that To me the cure sounds worse than
food is tainted. When bacteria start the problem. Can you imagine
to work on food, it starts to smell sniffing tainted bacon three times a
bad. Our noses often warn us that day for three months just so you'll
food should be discarded long know when your bacon has gone
before mold, slime or fuzz give us a bad?
visual clue that the food is not fit
for human consumption. Forget it, Dr. Hirsch. That
would be like sniffing skunk secre-
Nutritionists advise us to dis- tion several times a day so that you
card food that has been refrigerated could allow the skunk family living
for two days. Yet, many of us keep under your porch to keep their
eating food until it starts to smell home.
bad or grow noticeable foreign sub-
stances.
If you are over 60, depending

on your sense of smell to warn that
food is inedible is even less wise.
Unfortunately, if you're over 60 you
also might have trouble remember-
ing how long something has been in
the fridge.
Perhaps seniors should fix

smaller portions and either trash
their leftovers or trade with another
senior. If the trading meals option is
used, seniors need to trade right
after the meal in question so that no
one forgets how long the leftovers
have been around.
Dr. Hirsch does offer hope to

seniors. He calls it sniff therapy. He

MCS & the Fragrant Chemicals
NOVEMBER 14, 2004
TS HARD FOR ME TO EXPLAIN WHAT ITS LIKE TO HAVE MCS because it detergent from one of the other ten-
I affects everything I eat and drink, everything I breathe, and every
activity that I do throughout each day," says April Carlise. "Before I
ants or the Laundromat nearby
cause reactions. At some point,
started having MCS symptoms, I was unaware of all the chemicals that Carlise says she also started getting
we are exposed to throughout the day. But now that I have MCS, Im sick from pesticides and herbicides
aware of almost every chemical that I see, smell, touch or taste, in the foods she ate.
although some chemicals are odorless, tasteless and invisible."
"Id be really sick, and basical-
Carlise says her symptoms vary from overwhelming fatigue, to not ly bedridden for days afterward,"
thinking clearly, to not feeling emotionally strong. Her reactions may she says.
last hours or days. Not always knowing what caused a reaction, Carlise
spends most of her time trying to avoid as many chemicals as she can, About five years ago, pollen
trying to reduce the strength of chemicals to which she is exposed, and allergies added to Carlises difficul-
trying to neutralize her reactions. ties. Breathing fresh air to neutral-
ize chemical reactions was no
"When I looked into my eyes, I looked like I was slowly dying," longer an option. From April to
says Carlise, who says she noted toxic-looking rings around her pupils November, she had to avoid riding
eight years ago. "The blue parts of my eyes were a murkier blue. I did- the bus into town and taking daily
nt know it then, but those rings indicated my body was toxic." short walks around the apartment
complex or on the trails into the
From that point, her symptoms worsened. Passing by someone woods next to her apartment. She
wearing perfume, passing by scented candles, the aroma of laundry had to keep her apartment windows
detergents or fabric softeners caused reactions. She immediately left the and balcony doors closed, which
area seeking a clean space to breathe in what she hoped was clean air, kept odors inside. Running the air
thus lessening the reaction. She says she read extensively and experi- conditioning with a special filter
mented to find things that helped prevent the constant reactions and minimizes some odors when people
even neutralize them. Unfortunately, there wasnt always fresh air. enter her home to do repairs or stay
for a short visit.
Items in the mail, magazines, books, clothes, even plastic shopping
bags trigger reactions. Cigarette smoke from another tenant smoking on The most common odors that
his balcony, or wood smoke from a next-door neighbor, or smoke from people bring in with them and that
a nearby fire, affects Carlise. Bad-air pollution, strong smells of laundry linger after they leave are different

fragrances like perfumes, colognes, the medication, I was left with a ed 13 years," Carlise says who now
and fabric softeners on their severe case of CFS, digestive prob- survives on disability support.
clothes, hair shampoo and hand lems (which Id never had before)
lotion. Not only do the odors linger and a mild case of MCS," she says. According to Carlise, the three
in the air, they cling to anything the basic criteria for a diagnosis of CFS
person touched or sat on and may An internist diagnosed Carlise are fatigue that lasts for six months
cling to Carlises hair and clothes. with "post viral illness." Carlise or more; diminished capacities, by
disagreed, believing her illness was at least 50 percent, to perform daily
"Thats why I almost never caused by the medication. She later functions; and the absence of other
have company over or go to peo- learned that "post viral illness" was illnesses to explain the fatigue. She
ples homes," she says. another term for Chronic Fatigue met all the criteria. Furthermore,
Syndrome. she had lost a lot of weight, her skin
Over the years, her symptoms was yellow, and because her diges-
progressed from "very mild to very "CFS may be caused by a virus tive problems were so severe, she
severe." The severity fluctuated that the body cant get rid of, so says she looked like she was about
depending on her overall health and maybe my severe reaction to med- to die.
the exposure. ication, combined with the viral flu,
pushed me over the edge," she says. "Dr. Graciano agreed with my
April Carlise of Dover stands in diagnosis and admitted there were
her apartment, a safe haven from Carlise says she never recov- no available treatments at that
many chemicals that she says have ered from that catastrophic month. time," Carlise says. (Calls to Dr.
made her sick. A 1962 graduate from the Gracianos office were not
University of New Hampshire with returned.) "I still see Dr. Graciano
"I have spent years trying to get a bachelors degree in occupational and his nurse practitioner. Theyve
better. Every time I work hard to therapy, Carlise successfully com- written letters for me, regarding my
get better, Im exposed to more pleted her three required intern- chemical sensitivities, for rental
chemicals, and my overall health ships in a general hospital setting, a assistance, etc., although they have
worsens," Carlise says. "There are psychiatric hospital and a rehabili- never mentioned the diagnosis of
chemicals everywhere, and more tation center and then passed the MCS. They just say that I have a
and more chemicals are being national OTR test in 1967. She complicated medical history,
added all the time. I feel like Im began a new life, a new career. All which includes various chemical
like the canary in the goldmine. that changed with CFS. Unable to sensitivities, and that my health is
handle a stressful job as an occupa- fragile."
"I was dealt a double whammy. tional therapist, she worked as a
I live with Chronic Fatigue store clerk, a secretary and attempt- While Carlise says many peo-
Syndrome (CFS) and MCS. In ed part-time temp jobs. ple with CFS also have fibromyal-
l980, when I was 36, I had two gia (FM), she adds that symptoms
severe reactions to Flagyl, a pre- "Ive gotten better, then of Gulf War Syndrome the result of
scription medication, plus a bad relapsed, gotten better again, then exposure to different biological and
case of the flu, all within one relapsed again. My current relapse chemical substances in Iraq in 1991
month. I felt my life energy drain started in February l99l, when I the "Agent Orange" health prob-
out of me. I was bedridden and came down with the flu after a peri- lems some Vietnam veterans suf-
exhausted. When I stopped taking od of declining health, and has last- fered, the illnesses people suffer

who live near oil, chemical and She says shes never felt well too."
mining areas, the black lung dis- enough to leave. Almost every time
ease coal miners get, the lung dam- the landlord makes significant Many factors affect this illness -
age done to those exposed to property improvements, Carlise mental, emotional, spiritual and
asbestos, and even the possible fall- says her health suffers. The chemi- physical. Carlise says she believes
out from Sept. 11, 2001, as workers cal fumes from new hallway carpet- the MCS is a reflection of how out
and residents inhaling toxins from ing installed two years ago caused of balance her life was and how out
the aftermath are developing debil- Carlise to be bedridden almost of balance humans are with the nat-
itating health problems, overlap every day for about six months, ural world.
with those of CFS, FM and MCS. until the carpet out gassed enough,
and the pollen season ended, so she "I think it was Chief Seattle
"I realize that my MCS is a part could open the windows daily to air who predicted that Americans
of the CF syndrome, and cant be out the apartment. would drown in their own
separated from it. Some people waste/pollution and its everywhere
have CFS for six months; some for Then came new windows and and getting worse all the time.
three years; and some, like myself, balcony doors. Carlise says she More and more children and adults
for 24 or more years," she says. "I hasnt felt as energetic or as well are developing allergies, asthma,
believe CFS is caused by the body ever since they were installed. chemical sensitivities, etc., and
collapsing under the weight of sev- much of it is related to the amount
eral traumas and the difference in "My worst days are when its of pollution thats in our food, our
whether a person gets CFS for six hot and humid, which causes a sig- water, and the air we breathe and
months, or three years, or many nificant increase in the out gassing within our mental, emotional and
years, depends on the number of of chemicals from different things spiritual bodies. So, to me, its a
layers of traumas to the persons in my apartment," she says. combination of the individual
body. "People who are the weakest, "Although the apartment managers (myself) being "toxic" on a physi-
in certain ways, develop MCS have been very kind to me and have cal level, and unable to cope with
first," she continues. "On a physical been as understanding as they know the chemicals out there, and our
level, MCS is caused by a persons how to be, I constantly research culture, which promotes and uses
body becoming toxic, which how to protect myself. these chemicals," she says.
means their body is overwhelmed
by waste products of one kind or "Ive read that many people There is hope. A few years ago,
another. In a healthy person, the have health problems that they with the help of a homeopathic
liver detoxifies any incoming tox- arent even aware can be traced remedy and nutritional supple-
ins very quickly, but in a person back to the chemicals in the food ments, Carlise says she started to
with allergies and chemical sensi- they eat, the beverages they drink, feel better. Her symptoms have
tivities, the body is so over- the air they breathe, and every slowly become less severe and
whelmed with toxins, that they activity they do throughout the day. dont last as long. Shes still careful
build up in the body, and begin to I feel that everyone, whether they to avoid chemical exposures.
make the person ill." have MCS or not, can benefit from
becoming more aware of how bom- "Ive heard of a few people who
Moving to the Dover area 10 barded we are everyday with chem- have gotten significantly better, and
years ago, Carlise planned to live in icals. Most of us just arent aware I hope to be one of those people,"
a rented apartment for one year. of it. I used to be oblivious to it, she says.

Opium - The Fragrance
NOVEMBER 21, 2004
CHRISTIAN DIOR PRODUCT HAS paign to market a new fragrance

A N ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN FOR A NEW
DRAWN CRITICISM from a recovery advocacy group that says the ads
send a message to young women that being addicted is hip. The fol-
and makeup line called 'Dior
Addict.' This outrageous marketing
lowing is an "Action Alert" news release from Susan Rook, former campaign:
CNN news anchor, who is the director of communications and outreach
for Faces and Voices of Recovery: Exploits a brain disease;
Related Resources: Trivializes the critical public health

issue of alcohol and other drug
Alcoholism FAQ addiction;
What is Alcoholism Cheapens the hard work of recov-

ery and;
12 Step Info
Shows callous disregard for the
Getting Help feelings of parents who have lost a
child to addiction.
Alcohol Effects
Faces and Voices of Recovery
Other Support Groups is coordinating a diverse coalition
to launch a protest called:
From Other Guides: Addiction is Not Fashionable. This
initiative includes recovery advo-
Substance Abuse cates, parent groups, community
coalitions, prevention and treat-
Elsewhere on the Web: ment providers, faith community,
front-line health care providers,
Voices and Faces of Recovery members of the fashion, media and
entertainment industries and policy
Susan Rook makers.
Fashion designer Christian Dior has launched a massive ad cam- "As a parent who has lost my

own precious daughter to addiction Action says, "Dior's campaign around the country on Monday
I am appalled that the world makes it virtually impossible for October 21 announced the
renowned company of Dior would parents to teach children that drugs "Addiction is NOT Fashionable"
use the word 'Addict' for their new and alcohol can hurt them so badly campaign which will begin with a
line of perfume and cosmetics' says its better not to start." We spend massive letter writing campaign
Sharon Smith, president, MOM- $200 million of our tax dollars on a and an even larger email protest.
STELL. Smith went to the website media campaign to teach children Media events are planned for:
and had this reaction, "I just cried. not to use addictive drugs. How can Washington DC, Los Angeles,
How can a company push pleasure, Dior give the message that being an Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul and
sensuality and energy in an add 'Addict' is 'bold, daring and totally other cities.
campaign called Admit it, and talk sexy'?
about getting "Higher" without the We need your help. To partici-
simplest of regards for the parents "Since 1944, the National pate in the 'Addiction is not
of this country who have watched a Council on Alcoholism and Drug Fashionable' campaign please send
child get "Higher", "Admit it", and Dependence has been fighting the this action alert to other people you
then become an "Addict" and die as stigma attached to addiction and know.
a result. The word strikes fear in advocating for people in recovery,"
parents across this nation. In a time says Stacia Murphy, the organiza- Send letters directly to the New
of corporate responsibility, Dior is tion's President. "Unfortunately, in York office of Dior:
being totally irresponsible in the one ill-conceived effort to be hip,
choice of words in their new cam- sexy and cool and sell product the DIOR
paign." Dior campaign for Addict has made Attention: Veronica Post
our job more difficult. Addicts the Department of Consumer Affairs
Christian Dior Preying on real ones do not always smell terrif- 19 E. 57th Street
Young Women "They are institu- ic, and those who have recovered New York, NY 10022
tional predators," says Maine Youth have done so through hard work
Advocate Marty O'Brien, "They are and difficult emotional and spiritu- Please fax a copy of your letter
preying on young women to buy al growth. Sadly, a perfume named to Faces and Voices of Recovery
into the concept that addiction is 'Addict' can only cheapen their hard 703-299-6768.
hip." According to Richard Brown, work and contribute to the stigma
MD, University of Wisconsin, "We of addiction." Or call 212-931-2200, the
must condemn the glamorization of phone number for the Perfumes
addiction for profit. There would be What You Can Do: division.
a tremendous public outcry against
attempts to profit from glamorizing Dior has been asked to pull the Visit the website for the latest
other terrible diseases like stroke, 'Addict' campaign and re-name the information including a sample
cancer or AIDS." product. Consumer Affairs repre- protest letter, talking points and
sentative Veronica Post says the ideas from other advocates, email
Advocates working to prevent company 'appreciates our concern Susan Rook, or call 703-299-6760
drug use among children and ado- and feedback' and asks us to 'put it for more information.
lescents find Dior's glamorization in writing.'
of addiction particularly offensive. Well thought out marketing
Sue Rusche, National Families in Simultaneous press conferences campaign. Should earn millions in

extra revenue for Dior.
I am surprised by now that

someone hasnt discovered the lost
scents of the World Trade Center
disaster. Boy would that be a
cheesy marketing scam.
A good name would be 9 & 11.

Proceeds would go to the families
of the victims.

Ethics & Using Rare Plants
NOVEMBER 22, 2004
2002 meeting of the United Nations

D ESPITE THE EXISTENCE OF COMMODITY SHORTAGES IN THE AROMA
INDUSTRY, production and marketing strategies that are sustainable
in the long-term are driven more by consumers and organizations con-
Convention on Trade
Endangered Species voted in favor
in
cerned about conservation than by raw material producers and resellers. of protection of a further number of
The poverty in which many indigenous peoples are submerged increas- species, thus there is hope of tough
es the unsustainable use of natural materials. This phenomenon is exac- international legislation to preserve
erbated by the unwillingness of large companies to pay fair and equi- biodiversity (New Scientist 2002).
table prices to these peoples when searching and later making profit of
active ingredients found in places such as the rainforest. The author There is a "non-human"-centred
argues for a more ethical and responsible use of raw materials in the argument in environmental ethics,
aroma industry. He also describes the origin, use and status of impor- which states that an individual
tant animal and plant aromatic items. species has an absolute right to
exist. Introducing human's inter-
Introduction ests into the picture complicates the
issue, especially where products
The essential oil and aromatic raw materials industry is failing to from threatened species have asso-
self-police itself with respect to conserving threatened plant and animal ciated uses as commodities, at
species. Commodity shortages and higher unit prices for certain items which point ideological principles
signal ever-increasing supply problems. Green policies and any sem- are sometimes overturned. For
blance of ecological awareness with respect to these commodities often example, the 1973 Endangered
seem to originate more from the attitudes of consumers than via the raw Species Act in the United States,
materials producer and re-seller, in spite of the existent national and which is based on the assumption
international laws restricting or forbidding trade in certain threatened that each life form may prove valu-
species. It seems that some traders will only stop marketing these valuable in non-predictable ways, and
able commodities when prosecuted, legally prevented, shamed or pres- that each species is entitled to exist
surized into adopting more ecologically sound practices. for its own sake, was initially wel-
comed by a majority of the public,
The World Conservation Union has now classified 11,167 creatures but was later challenged by many
and 5714 plants as facing extinction (IUCN 2002). It is calculated that people, when the habitat of a single
loss of species is currently running up to 1000 times its natural rate, thus unique species was seen to "get in
it seems surely time to examine measures to help conservation strategies the way" of major industrial devel-
for the planet (New Scientist 2002). With this in mind, the October opment, affecting jobs and liveli-

hoods, and maybe even affecting and burn policies of migrating agri- flow of desired forest products and
the way people might vote cultural practices may affect the pH services without undue reduction in
(Chadwick 1995). As another of the soil, change the viable seed its inherent values and future pro-
example, Pakenham (2002) devot- count and soil microflora, damage ductivity, and without undue desir-
ed a complete chapter to the case of the root matt structure, and may able effects on the physical and
the eucalyptus forests in Australia. lead to the degradation of forest social environment (Mankin
These forests contained enormous areas. Indeed the poverty of the 1998).
Eucalyptus regnans trees 350-400 indigenous peoples can make huge
feet high, a wonder in themselves! demands on the forest reserves, and But despite the fact that the
However, the cutting down of state- this effect may be comparable or need for as sustainable manage-
owned eucalyptus forests in the larger than the effects of logging or ment is recognized, indigenous
Yarra range north of Melbourne has other destructive forces. peoples generally gain absolutely
monetarily benefited Australian nothing from large companies
taxpayers. It is hard to see that con- Another cause of the extinction searching for new pharmaceuticals,
servation can be perceived as effec- of species is the gathering of threat- active ingredients for cosmetics or
tive and ongoing, when local gov- ened organisms. One of the argu- drugs (e.g., curare and quinine),
ernments adopt such policies of ments for non-interventionist poli- and agrochemicals in environments
such seemingly negative ecological cies relates to a fundamental right such as the rainforest (Prance
value. of peoples to use plants and herbs 1998). No establishment mecha-
for religious, medicinal or ritual nisms exist to reward local commu-
Biodiversity Conservation, use. In fact, endemic peoples can nities for the conservation of diver-
indigenous peoples and the aroma easily view the imposition of eco- sity, and the growth of forest con-
industry. logically reasoned restrictions on servation schemes has historically
these practices as a form of Western shown scant regard for the ways of
Slash and burn was practiced scientific imperialism. I am sym- indigenous peoples.
for hundreds of years in the tropics pathetic to this viewpoint, and
in a process of cultivation and fal- would always seek to prevent the It is not all doom and gloom
low rotation (and sometimes man- more serious threat of commercial however. Panaia et al. (2000) report
agement succession) without a exploitation rather than interfere that one single plant of the critical-
great impact in the rainforest with a more "legitimate" ethnic use, ly endangered Symonanthus ban-
(Brookfield and Padoch 1994; provided that this use does not con- croftii plant was discovered in
Tomich et al. 1998). However, tinue to seriously endanger the Ardath in Western Australia, and a
population growth and pressure species in question, for instance, by recovery program using in vitro
from big corporations have the use of sustainable practices to micropropagation techniques was
decreased the amount of land avail- ensure the long-term preservation started via the resources of
able, and the fallow period has of natural resources. Sustainable Department of Conservation and
shortened with the subsequent forest development is defined by Land Management (CALM) and
degradation of the land (Tomich et the International Tropical Timber the Botanic Gardens and Parks
al. 1998). The intensification of Organization as "the process of Authority of Western Australia.
slash and burn practices lead to managing permanent forest land to The plant has now a less precarious
desertification, and agriculture and achieve one or more specific outlook, illustrating the role of tis-
housing needs intrude more and objects of management with regard sue culture, one of the ex-situ
more on former forest areas. Slash to the production of a continuous measures proving useful in con-

serving rare and threatened species. drawbacks of imposed monoculture Zoological Garden in China and
on cleared forest land, and policies estimated an annual production of
The trend towards exotic botan- which contribute to species succes- 12 kg of civet paste per year from a
ical extracts as actives in cosmetic sion is welcomed. Some of these one-hectare civet farm operated by
products is also a major develop- exploited aromatic items are listed the zoo. Farms also operate in
ment and has spawned some inter- below, although the list is far from Ethiopia, Kenya, Congo, Guinea,
esting associations, such as those being comprehensive. Senegal and India. Petitdidier
between the French Conservatory (1986) glowingly reported on a
of Specialized Botanical Animal Products visit to Addis Abbaba Research
Collections and producing compa- Institute, which controlled the civet
nies in Madagascar and Brazil. 1. Civet. Civet products were used quality output from 105 Ethiopian
Charges of bioethnic plundering in in less enlightened times in per- farms. A similar kind of article
exotic materials for cosmetics gen- fumery for their animalic notes, would be hard to find these days,
erally are offset by the fact that finding use in orientals, heavy flo- reflecting how attitudes have
indigenous peoples may gain mon- rals and chypres. Civet paste is changed.
etarily from these exploits. But obtained from squeezing or scrap-
ethno-botany is now such a buzz- ing the anal glands of the African 2. Musk. Musk grains/pods are
word across the cosmetic world, civet cat Civetticus civetta (some- obtained from the preputial glands
thus it is hard to find out if there is times classified as Viverra civetta), of the musk deer (Moschus spp.).
any effective monitoring for the the Indian civet Viverra zibetha Geist (1999) argues that these timid
majority of these raw materials, and (from India, Indonesia and creatures are really tragulids, the
from personal experience, complete Malaysia), the Lesser Indian civet similarity to deer only occurring by
ignorance of the conservation sta- (also known as the Chinese civet) convergent evolution. A principle
tus of these commodities items Viverricula indica (East and South difference is that tragulids have
would seem to be the norm China) and other civet species. fewer exocrine glands than "real"
amongst the majority of technical Viverra civettina (India), Viverra deer. Example of musk deer
staff of many leading cosmetic zibetha (India) and Viverricula species include Moschus bere-
companies. Further, it is possible indica (India) are listed under zovskii found in Southern China
that extensive usage of these exotic Appendix III of the Convention on and Northern Vietnam, Moschus
ingredients may further damage the International Trade in Endangered chrysoagaster found in India, and
fragile ecosystems from whence Species of Wild Fauna and Flora Moschus moschiferus found in
they came. (CITES) (CITES 2003). China, Mongolia, Himalayas and
Korea. Moschus spp. populations
What action can we in the De-Sheng (1986) wrote a of Afghanistan, Bhutan, India,
aroma world take to contribute to review article of the civet cat and Myanmar, Nepal and Pakistan are
conserving biological diversity? presented detailed GC-Mass listed under Appendix I of CITES,
One possible way is not to formu- Spectrometery data on the compo- while other populations are includ-
late with, or trade in commodities sition of steam micro-distillation- ed in Appendix II (CITES 2003).
which origin is a threatened extraction volatiles from civet
species, until we are far surer that secretions obtained from the Animal musks have had a long
truly sustainable production meth- Chinese Civet Viverricula indica. history of use in perfumery. Zhong
ods are in place. Dialogue to dis- Yingkang (1991) described civet and Hui (1996) reported that China
cuss how this might be done, the paste collection from Hangzou formerly had 90% of the world

"musk deer resources," but that (CITES 2003). Rice DW (2002) of Louisiana marshlands. Hall (1981)
deer populations had reduced from the National Maritime Mammal reported that in North America
2.5 million on the 1960's to 100,000 Laboratory, Seattle, pointed out, muskrat pelts are the most valuable
in 1996. Green (1986, 1989) and that contrary to the widely held fur pelts in the trapping trade. The
Wemmer (1998) noted that the eco- belief that ambergris masses may perfumery use of muskrat products
nomic viability of musk harvesting be found floating in the sea or would nowadays also be regarded
from either free-range or captive washed up on shores, harvesting as non-ethical.
musk deer has not been evaluated. therefore posing no threat to whale
Only small amounts of musk are viability, ambergris is hardly ever There are other "animal" prod-
nowadays used in perfumery - the found on beaches but is mainly ucts that are not similarly universal-
largest consumers of musk products recovered from whale carcasses ly regarded as unethical commodi-
are China (where various musk ties (e.g., beeswax absolute
qualities are used in traditional 4. Castoreum. Castoreum qualities obtained via alcoholic extract of
medicine) and Japan. Morita are ethylic extracts of the accumu- beeswax). The official line is that
(1992) reported that musk is no lated dried material collected via respectable international perfumery
longer an ingredient of modern secretory glands in the abdominal companies do not trade in animal
Japanese incense. pouch of the Siberian beaver Castor raw materials, as the trade is
fiber and the Canadian beaver C. regarded as unethical, if not actual-
Traditional musk qualities used canadensis living in Alaska, ly illegal under CITES agreements.
in perfumery included: a) musk Canada and Siberia. Russian and It does not take the trainee in per-
tonquin from Moschus moschiferus Canadian commercial products fumery too long to realize that cer-
deer in Tibet and China; b) musk were available in former times tain identifiable perfumery compa-
cabardine from cabardine deer (e.g., from the Hudson Bay nies do not adhere to these criteria,
Moschus sibiricus and Moschus Company), and at the present time although they risk the attentions of
altaicus; c) musk Yunnan of differ- castoreum products are still avail- environmentalists and animal wel-
ent physical appearance from ton- able from Internet traders and cer- fare groups who might vigorously
quin; d) musk Bengal (maybe also tain perfumery companies (e.g., pursue these miscreants.
known Assam musk), usually some in France). Castoreum was
regarded as inferior; e) musk once used in perfumery to give An interesting development is
Siberian from the Shansi mountain leathery animal notes to chypres the reported banning of the import
regions; and f) musk of Boukharie. and to other perfumes. In spite of by the Chinese government on
progress in understanding the March 2002 of products from
3. Ambergris. Ambergris is a chemical composition of cas- Europe (that includes members and
pathological exudate from the toreum, no synthetic replacement non-members of the European
sperm whale Physeter macro- or reconstitution comes close to Union), Japan and Oman, contain-
cephalus and only occurs in reproducing the in-perfume effects ing or suspected of containing ani-
approximately 1% of the popula- produced by the authentic material. mal derivatives (Parfums
tion. The disease is caused by expo- Cosmtiques Actualits 2002). It
sure to sunlight and seawater pro- 5. Muskrat. Although the species is will be interesting to see if the ban
ducing this formerly used per- not threatened, products such as just applies to some cosmetic mate-
fumery material. Physeter spp., musk zibata were formerly pro- rials - including fragrance ingredi-
amongst other whales, are listed duced from the muskrat Ondatra ents - or also applies to musk and
under Appendix I of CITES zibethicus, which lives on the other ingredients imported for use

in traditional Chinese medicines. plant hunting for new perfumes it is mentioned in the British Herbal
including orchid perfumes in rain Pharmacopoeia of 1983). The mar-
Plant Products forest areas (e.g., Madagascar) by ket for the dried flowers is believed
experts from one of the worlds to be 50 tons per annum and this
1. Orchid oils. The three commer- largest fragrance companies. product is almost totally derived
cially cultivated species of the Current interest by the media is fur- from wild harvesting from Spain
vanilla plant, Vanilla planifolia ther reflected in S. O'Connell's arti- and Romania. An excellent review
(Bourbon or Indonesian vanilla), V. cle (2001) reporting on the work of of the status of A. montana, includ-
tahitensis (Tahitian vanilla), and V. Josef Limacher, a perfume hunter ing the position with respect both to
pompona (Guadeloupe vanilla; working on orchid scents in loca- legal and illegal harvesting in
vanillons; W. Indian vanilla) are not tions in Brazil. Kaiser (1993) pre- Spain, is described by Lange
included in this category. Orchids sented an impressive academic (1998).
are already sufficiently rare in account of the chemistry of natural
many European countries to have orchid scents from many parts of 3. Costus. Products such as
protected status, and the family the world in his fabulously illustrat- extracts, concretes, and essential
Orchidaceae is listed under ed book. Although the threat of oils are obtained from Saussurea
Appendix II of CITES and Annex mass exploitation of orchid species lappa (also known as Saussurea
B of Regulation (EC) 338/97 is unlikely, close monitoring to pro- costus). This species is sometimes
(CITES 2003). Some examples of tect individual habitats of these mistaken with the herbal plant
threatened species still use are the beautiful and irreplaceable plants is Costus speciosus. Saussurea lappa
ladies slipper Cypripedium parvi- desirable. plants, known as kuth in Hindi and
florum var. pubescens, which is in the herb trade, are grown in
used in herbal medicine and is list- 2. Mountain tobacco. Extracts, Kashmir, Sikkim and other areas of
ed in the British Herbal concretes, essential oils, the dried the Himalayas, and in
Pharmacopoeia 1983, and Ophyris roots, dried whole plant and dried Southwestern China. The plant has
insectifera used in "salep", an flowers of Arnica montana are become endangered and export is
ingredient in Turkish delight and commercially offered, in spite of banned, the species being included
ice cream. McGriffin (2000) pro- declining plant populations. Due to in Appendix I of CITES (CITES
posed self-regulatory initiatives to over-exploitation, A. montana is 2003). S. lappa's qualities are bet-
refrain from trading in wild-har- listed under Annex D of the CoE ter known in perfumery as costus
vested ladies slipper. He suggested Regulations (EC) No. 338/97 and absolute, costus oil etc. The plant
that these initiatives should be put under Annex V of the EU Habitats, grows wild, mainly in Jammu and
into practice by the herbal industry, Fauna and Flora Directive Kashmir (specifically in the
all American Herbal Products (EUROPA 2003). A rare drug, the Kishenganga and Chenab valleys),
Association members, and all other tincture of arnica flower oil from but is also cultivated in Kashmir
individuals and businesses in the the capitulum's of A.montana, has and Lahul. Roots of the plant are
horticultural and herb trade. previously achieved pharmaceuti- used in Ayurvedic, Unani, Siddha
cal status in the British and Tibetan medicinal systems.
Many natural perfumes pro- Pharmaceutical Codex of 1949. The oil was formerly used in high-
duced by many orchid species are The herb and its products has simi- class perfumery in small quantities
currently being researched by lead- larly been official in many National to impart animalic and sebaceous
ing perfumery companies (Kaiser Pharmacopoeias (e.g., Austria, notes, and some would say coupled
1993). Pain (2001) described the France, Germany, Switzerland and with orris-like effects. Up to 12

tons of raw material per year are tree replantation with trade pur- Peruvian Rosewood oil from
exported from northwest districts chases) are commendable in some "sustainably grown" Ocotea cauda-
of India, in spite of their threatened respects, but will make little impact ta is also being sold into the essen-
status, and not being permitted in in the short term due to the long tial oils market. The history of
perfumes because of problems of maturation period of the trees. exploitation of Ocotea species has
dermal sensitization associated Loss of germ plasm diversity and not been good up to now. The over-
with sesquiterpene lactones and narrowing of the genetic base is exploitation of Brazilian Sassafras
other sensitizers in costus products. believed to have already occurred O. pretosia and the valuable South
Incorporation into perfumes is through tree over-exploitation to African timber tree O. bullata has
against the International Fragrance satisfy the demand for essential oil, been such that the latter is a pro-
Research Association Standards, although efforts to create a germ tected species. So much felling of
unless specific commercial grades plasm collection are now afoot. O. pretosia in Santa Caterina
offered can be shown to be non- Some encouraging trials for young forests of Brazil has occurred in the
sensitizing. trees indicate better growth charac- last few decades in order to produce
teristics in cleared areas compared Brazilian Sassafras oil that now the
Additonal List of Rare & to the relative failure of poly-tunnel transport distances to the distillery
Endangered Species trials. The Faculdade de Ciensias are relatively great, and the oil is
Agrarias do Para at Belem, Brazil starting to be uneconomic to pro-
The following are aroma mate- recently identified specific evalua- duce. Since O. cymbarum is often
rials from species that I believe to tion needs for formal cultivation, confused with O. pretosia has also
be rare, very rare or threatened in including the selection of superior suffered reduction in numbers from
their natural habitats. Some aro- germ plasm, economic studies for indiscriminate felling. Many
matic raw material users may be production of wood and leaf oils, Ocotea species are slow-growing
anxious that the conservation ideal and optimization management species and may take up to forty
should ensure that not only the regimes for short-rotation harvest- years to mature. If exploitation
morphologically distinct forms are ing of trunk wood and leaves. becomes scaled up the future of O.
preserved, but also the conservation Major purchasers of Rosewood oil caudata may be uncertain, although
of chemotypes is given equal to date are believed to have been some oil customers dislike the infe-
weighting. local outposts of fragrance sector rior odour profile (pine-oil disin-
multinationals, who have taken up fectant like) of some batches of the
1. Rosewood oil. Oil from the to 100 tons per annum of oil since oil, which makes the increase of O.
wood of Aniba rosaedora, A. ama- the eighties (the present output is caudata exploitation very unlikely.
zonica, A. parviflora and other believed to be closer to 30 tons).
Aniba species and varieties, is dis- This is in contrast to the Brazilian 2. Amyris oil. Although there is no
tilled to produce "bois de rose" or situation of the nineteen sixties, study that I am aware of to corrob-
Rosewood oil. The present produc- where fifty or so Brazilian distiller- orate this prediction, I believe that
tion is mainly from Brazil (the pure ies provided 500 tons per year of oil Amyris balsamifera is at risk of
oil is only shipped out from (Ohashi 1997). A review article by becoming extinct in its natural
Manaus), although formerly was S. Sheppard-Hanger and the author, habitat, the Caribbean and Gulf of
produced also in French Guiana, on possible substitutes for Mexico, in less than ten years due
Surinam and Peru. Time is running Rosewood oil in Aromatherapy, has to over-exploitation. The oil is not
out for this important raw material. just been published (Burfield & greatly valued in perfumery but
Replanting deals (i.e. guaranteeing Sheppard-Hanger 2003). rather has found employment as an

extender of other oils, or in cheap guess is that there are possibly less There is no national or interna-
soap perfumes. than 130,000 hectares of S. album tional genetic germ plasm resource
trees in the whole of India. In or collection of sandalwoods in
3. Sandalwood oil. Possibly origi- Karataka and Tamil Nadu forests existence anywhere. Further, full
nally introduced from the Timor trees grow at elevations of up to maturity for trees may take 60-80
islands, the parasitic sandalwood 1400 m and there is some evidence years. All of these factors coupled
trees (Santalum species) such as S. that oil formation in the heartwood with over-exploitation are putting
freycinetianum (Lanal sandalwood) is optimal where trees are grown at pressure on other Santalum species
and S. album (East Indian between 600 to 900 m. It is proba- from which replacement sandal-
Sandalwood) became endemic to ble that 75% of India's sandalwood wood oils are being produced. For
Southwest India, often hiding deep output comes from the forests of instance, S. austrocaledonicum
in the Southern forests. According Karnataka, where extensive (sandalwood oil vanuata) and S.
to Sahni (2000) some species of replanting trials have been carried yasi (Fiji, Tonga) have been so
Santalum were perhaps spread out, although the market sourcing exploited, that numbers of these
there via birds following their for this commodity may now focus species are down to a few trees. S.
establishment by man on the out- increasingly on Papua New Guinea. fernandezianum was exploited
skirts of forests or nearby villages. Many replantings in other districts since 1624 for its valuable sweet-
Sahni (2000) also estimated that of India have produced viable scented wood, and according to
sandalwoods have been indigenous plants, but with no oil content. Rai Lucas and Synge (1978) the last
to parts of India for 23 centuries. (1999) described the plantation specimen of this species was last
There is some evidence that essen- techniques used for raising sandal- seen alive by Skottsberg in 1908.
tial oil formation in the heartwood wood from seeds, and container The status of tree numbers of S.
is optimal where trees are grown at raised seedlings. Many attempts insulare (French Polynesia), S.
between 600 to 900 m. Due to have resulted in failure from insuf- macgregorii (Papua New Guinea),
over-exploitation, East Indian and ficient knowledge of the host-para- and S. ellipticum (Hawaii) also
Indonesian oils from S. album are site relationship, or from misman- needs monitoring.
not freely available, although some agement (e.g., deaths by dehydra-
limited production of East Indian tion, animal scavenging, or human- Although East Indian sandal-
sandalwood is taking place. The caused destruction). wood from S. album reached pro-
market price of East Indian sandal- tected species status in 1995, most
wood at the time of writing is 425 Trees are quite susceptible to of the aroma industry trade press
per kilo! The production has partly disease, especially to the mycoplas- has virtually ignored the topic.
been in the control of the Madras mal spike disease, which affects the Soap, Perfumery and Cosmetics
and Mysore state governments, principal forests (see Nayar (1988) (2002) highlighted the research on
who have attempted to prevent the for a detailed review of spike dis- the Australian sandalwood S. spica-
unauthorized smuggling of oil. ease). Mineral and hydrational tum extract by the Institute of the
However, illegal sandalwood oil requirements are provided by the Pharmaceutical Chemistry in
has been commonly offered in the hot, thus spike disease is thought to Vienna, in conjunction with an
oil dealing trade, and in recent be aided by the selection of inap- Australian Sandalwood producer
years, the industry has largely propriate hosts for the sandalwood (Mt. Romance). The article is
turned its back and pretended not to tree. The tree will normally die largely devoted to extol the virtues
notice the practice, and now we within 3 years of infection. of S. spicatum "oil, apparently via
may be paying the price. My best felled trees from a 1.6 km2 area.

Unfortunately the article fails to ferox, Picrorhiza kurrooa and exploitation has further the abun-
distinguish the differences in com- Swertia chirata. Apart from S. chi- dance of the species. Shankar and
positional and odor properties rata, these species are disappearing Majundar (1997) quoted the
between East Indian sandalwood fast. The rhizome from N. jata- Foundation for Revitalization of
oil and the Australian Sandalwood mansi is used in Ayurvedic medi- Local Health Traditions Research
extract. Webb (2000) described the cine for the treatment of hysteria Department, which published a first
solvent extract procedure details, and other nervous illnesses. The Red Data List of threatened South
which is followed by co-distillation larger plant N. grandiflora which Indian medicinal plants, in which
as utilized by Mt. Romance in the occurs in the same regions that N. the status of H. macrocarpa was
preparation of Australian jatamansi does, achieved CITES listed as vulnerable. CIMAP (1997)
Sandalwood extract. Appendix II listing in July 2000, reported that H. pentadra is facing
together with Picrorhiza kurrooa. genetic errosion and that in general
4. Jatamansi oil. Jatamansi oil is P. kurrooa is a tonic herb and pos- Hydnocarpus species are in decline
extracted from Nardostachys jata- sibly the most well-recognized due to habitat destruction.
mansi, which is found in the Himalayan medicinal herb. It is
Eastern Himalayas, Nepal, Bhutan interesting to note that N. grandi- 6. Gentian. Many of the 300 or so
and Sikkim. The once abundant flora is said to be often co-gathered Gentiana species remain very rare
herbal plants described by early with Valeriana wallichi according or threatened (IUCN 2002).
botanists (: Gammie A. 1894) have to Traffic International (1999) and Gentiana extracts have traditionally
been virtually stripped from the that published chemical composi- been used in medicines and flavor-
hillsides by herb gatherers in many tions of essential oils from these ings, but species such as G. tibetica
places now, so the plant is becom- species are similar. was formerly used in Tibetan
ing extremely scarce and the peren- medicinal systems may be so rare
nial only occurs in a few 5. Chaulmoogra oils. Chaulmoogra that substitutions may have to be
Himalayan valleys, typically at oils are extracted from made. Kletter and Kriechbaum
heights of between 3600-4800 m, Hydnocarpus species from some (2001) note that G. tibetica is often
or even at the higher elevations. regions in India (especially the confused with G. crassicaulis and
Amatya and Sthapit (1994) Western Ghats and Karnataka). G. robusta, and it may be that plant
expressed concern about over- Interestingly, chaulmoogra oils are gatherers are simply looking in the
exploitation of the species, calling fixed oils, often being solid in tem- wrong area for the species. The
for increased levels of cultivation. perate European climates, but with species may occur in Nepal but is
The authors also remarked that a history of being traded by the confined to southeast Xizang,
although export of the herb itself essential oil industry. Their tradi- Bhutan, Sikkim at heights between
was not allowed, there is no restric- tional indigenous medicinal use 2100 to 4200 m. Kletter and
tion on exporting oleoresin and against leprosy has been largely Kriechbaum (2001) further recom-
essential oil, and the export vol- superseded by modern pharmaceu- mended that gathering of all three
umes of these products are often tical drugs. Biswas (1956) noted species should never exceed 50%
inaccurately reported, to avoid pay- that species of chaulmoogra were of the total local population of
ment of government tax. The trad- ruthlessly and crudely collected plants, and should only occur dur-
ing of N. jatamansi only reflects the and sold outside Nepal, in addition ing two years in a row followed by
high levels of commercial exploita- to other species such as chirata one year without harvest.
tion that still occurs with other (Swertia chirata), and kuth
Himalayan herbs like Aconitum (Saussurea lappa). Since then G. lutea is listed in the Red

Book Data listings for Bosnia, decline lead to the oil production Sausaurea costus, Hedychium spi-
Romania, Portugal, Bulgaria, cessation in Africa, and the oil has catum, Nardostaschys grandiflora,
Albania, Germany, Czech disappeared from the raw material Gaultheria procumbens and Jurinea
Republic, Ukraine and Poland. It is inventories of perfumery compa- dolomiaea. Agarwood formation is
commonly used as a source materi- nies. The tree has been introduced maximal in trees older than 25
al in the preparation of gentian into parts of India (the Nilgiris), years old, peaking in trees older
absolute for the perfumery trade, and waste wood from trees cut than 50 years, thus even though the
and as a bittering agent in alcoholic down for furniture making may be Department of Forests in
beverages, but the more economi- distilled on a very limited scale to Arunachal Pradesh has developed
cally important use for the dried produce oil for local use. large Aquilaria plantations, these
roots and rhizome of the plant is to measures may not affect the cutting
produce bitters to stimulate the 8. Agarwood. Agarwood (also and illegal exporting of this prod-
digestive system. Lange (1998) known as aloeswood) is extracted uct. Attempts and trials for artifi-
estimated the demand for dried from Aquilaria & Gonystylus spp., cial resin inducement and biotech-
roots as being 1500 tons per and A. malaccensis and other nological processes for agaru pro-
annum, mainly derived from gath- Aquilaria species grow in Malaysia duction are planned to be covered
ering from the wild in France, and Indonesia and are becoming at a First International Agarwood
Spain, Turkey, Bavaria, Albania rare because of the great demand Conference which will take place in
and Romania. He also noted that for infected sections of fragrant Vietnam on November 2003. The
wild harvesting of G. lutea in Spain wood (agaru), which fetch a great objective of this conference is to
proceeds in contravention of exist- price. A. crassna is listed as endan- lay the groundwork for collabora-
ing legislation. gered by the Vietnamese govern- tive efforts towards preventing
ment and A. malaccensis is protect- Aquilaria trees becoming extinct in
7. Kenyan cedarwood oil. Known ed under CITES. Agarwood trees the wild.
as the East Africa pencil cedar tree, are felled indiscriminately by rov-
Juniperus procea reaches up to 30 ing teams of agaru hunters who Momberg et al. (2000) provide
m and is found in parts of Ethiopia search Southeast Asian territories an insight into the social and ethical
and central Kenya at 1000 to 3000 for this very valuable material, in issues surrounding the bioprospect-
m. An oil traded as Kenyan cedar- places in which the species are not ing rush for agaru in the Kayan
wood oil was formerly produced known to occur. Exploitation from Mentarang National Park in East
from distillation of the chipped incense makers and other commer- Kalimantan, Indonesia. The authors
wood, and was commercially avail- cial users threaten the continued report for example that the nineties
able as a common perfumery raw future sustainability of A. agallocha boom in agaru collecting featured
material up to the mid-eighties. By trees (which some workers regard non-indigenous teams flying agaru
1986, J. procera was included in the as synonymous with A. malaccen- out by aircraft. Eventually govern-
FAO listing of endangered tree and sis) from Cambodia, Vietnam and ment restrictions stopped this activ-
shrub species and provenances Thailand (Barden et. al. 2003; and ity, but only at the point when the
(FAO 1986). Ciesla (2002) dis- CITES Newsletter 2000). A. agaru forest reserves were exhaust-
cussed reasons for the decline of malaccensis is mentioned amongst ed; inexperienced outside collec-
the species, which include the 65 listed Indian medicinal and aro- tors felling every Aquilaria tree
effect of possible pathogens, drying matic plants facing genetic erosion (instead of just infected trees) have
out of forests and human factors by CIMAP (1997), a list that also added to a worsening situation.
such as heavy overgrazing. The includes Gentiana kurroo,

9. Greater wormwood oil. This have been recycled from the re- sawdust is collected from timber-
product is derived from Artemisia building of temples. Therefore the yards and distilled to obtain oil for
gracilis, a now rare European oil is produced from the steam dis- local use.
alpine plant growing at elevations tillation of the chipped wood and
of 2400-3500 m. The oil was for- sawing wastes of the Hinoki tree 15. Origanum oils. Several individ-
merly used as a flavoring ingredient legally obtained, and buyers should ual species of Origanum such as O.
in alcoholic beverages and to pro- seek documented proof of legality barygyli from Syria and O. dicta-
duce the alpine liqueur Genipy. if buying from a Japanese source. mus and O. vetter from Greece are
There may now also be some limit- rare or threatened. Several institu-
10. Anise scented myrtle oil. This ed Chinese production of this oil tions have collected the genetic
oil is traditionally associated with also. resources of the genus, which
Australia (North East part of New reside in a number of gene banks,
South Wales, specifically the 12. Havozo tree oil. The practice of and private collections across the
Bellinger and Nambucca valleys). bark distillation, which produces an world.
Anise scented myrtle oil is obtained oil that smells strongly of aniseed
from Backhousia anisata, a rare tree and contains 80-97% methyl chavi- 16. Himalayan cedarwood oil.
rare that grows up to 25 m, col as well as limonene, anethole, Cedrus deodara grows on the
although plants are always smaller and linalol, is threatening the sur- Himalayan slopes of northern
in cultivation. Briggs and Leigh vival of Ravensara anisata, the India, Afghanistan and Pakistan, at
(1995) list B. anisata as a rare or Madagascan tree from which the oil elevations between 1650 and 2400
threatened plant, with a geographic is extracted. There are some signs m, and has extensively been used in
range in Australia of less than 100 that this practice is being discour- India for building, furniture ad rail-
km. More than 1000 trees of the aged and better forestry manage- way sleepers. Felled trees are float-
species exist in natural reserves and ment is being put into practice ed down the rivers in the Himalayas
Briggs and Leigh (1995) consider (Medicinal Plant Conservation to the plains. Oil production is
the species' status as adequate 1997). down from former levels of 20
inside the reserves. Annual pro- tons, to approx 1 ton per year. The
duction of leaf or branch or bark oil 13. Siam Wood oil. Fokiena hod- species is listed as threatened
production is not known, although ginsi, first reported in 1908 and (Farjon et al. 1993), and according
is believed to be minute. Some now becoming very rare, is used to to Sahni (2000) the tree is the
anecdotal reports state that leaf oils produce this oil. The oil is rarely remaining habitat for the threatened
produced from the cultivated plants encountered commercially. and spectacular Western Tragopan
are inferior in odor profile to wild (Tragopan melanocephalus) in
harvested leaves. The spicy leaves 14. Mulanje cedarwood. Whyte parts of Kashmir, Himachal
have been used in the Australian (1892) reported that forest fires Pradesh and Pakistan. The oil is
bush tucker industry. were threatening the mulanje cedar- widely used in aromatherapy, but
wood Widdringtonia whyte. little used in Western perfumery
11. Hinoki wood oil. Since 1982 However, this African species sur- where Virginian cedarwood oil
the Japanese government has pro- vived in a ten-mile area until it was Virginia from Juniperus virginiana
tected Chamaecyparis obtusa replanted from Mulanje Mountains L. is often preferred.
where the oil is extracted from, and Forest Reserve in the 1960s to for-
has only allowed the use of trees mer Nyasaland, Tanganyika and 17. Cedrus atlantica commodities.
that have died naturally, or which Kenya. Now over-used as timber, The tree is found at an elevation of

1400-2500 m growing on several powerful smelling steam-distilled over exploitation and habitat
types of soil in 133,653 hectares of oil is in flavorings and perfumery to destruction in India, such that plant
cedar forest in the Moroccan produce a fruity berry (especially populations are considerably
Middle Atlas, Rif Central and blackberry) note. Its diminishing reduced so that it is nearly threat-
Grand Atlas Oriental and Middle presence in the wild has been the ened.
Atlas Oriental mountains (Mardaga subject of several recent articles.
1999). While cedarwood Atlas For instance Hoegler (2000) men- Just because some aromatic
trees are well conserved in specific tioned the poor gathering practices materials are no longer offered, it
protected areas, the ecosystem is in the face of increased demand that does not necessarily mean that they
very fragile, and often the margins has partially been responsible for are threatened. Unavailable prod-
are subject to degradation by ero- the demise of the species, and men- ucts could be divided into various
sion, demineralization, dehydra- tioned the work of Agribusiness in groups: a) materials no longer
tion, and desertification, occasion- Sustainable African plant Products available in former quantity due to
ally resulting in areas of complete (A-SNAPP) which has targeted the lack of demand (e.g., Backhousia
desolation, in spite of heroic plant for sustainable development citriodora oil for many years, after
attempts by the Moroccan authori- initiatives. African farmers the advent of cheap commercially
ties to maintain them. Lawrence demanded price rises of 30% for available synthetic citral, and now
(1985) reported that the production buchu oil, a move known as "hold- enjoying modest comeback due to
of cedarwood Atlas oil was 7 tons, ing the market to ransom" (Parfums interest in natural perfumery); b)
but the availability in recent years Cosmtiques Actualits 2003). materials which have slipped from
has been more limited, probably fashionable use, but can be
now to around 1 ton per annum. 20. Cinnamomum oils. At the time obtained with difficulty (e.g., rese-
of writing, the Chinese authorities da absolute from Reseda odorata,
18. Thymus oil. Of the 350 distin- have seemingly introducing a ban woodruff absolute from Galium
guishable species of Thymus, the on tree felling of certain species odorata); c) materials which go
threatened species include T. including Cinnamomum because of short because of huge demand (e.g.,
moroderi, T. baeticus and T. zygis concerns related to climate change. vanilla oleoresin from Vanilla
subsp. gracilis (Blanco and Breaux Ho leaf & wood oils from species spp.); d) materials which become
1997; Lange 1998). Although such as C. camphora L. var. temporarily short due to climatic or
licensed collection may put the linaloolifera and C. camphora Sieb political difficulties (e.g., geranium
brake on international trade on cer- var. glavescens Hayata, are subject oil Chinese from Pelargonium
tain Thymus traded items, the use to considerable price rises and sup- graveolens in 2002).
of Thymus species for essential oil ply problems. Zhu et al. (1994) had
distillation within Spain is not mon- previously warned of potential Acknowledgments
itored, and so the true situation is problems of exhaustion of
not clearly known (Lange 1998). Cinnamomum species reserves in The author would like to thank
China, as no policy of tree replanti- Saul Alarcon-Adams for his direc-
19. Buchu oils. Agathosma betuli- ng currently existed. The future tion and input to this article.
na and A. crenulata leaves are sustainability of this commodity is
steam-distilled to produce the oil. unforeseeable at present. Another Literature Cited
The plants have long been used in Cinnamomum species,
traditional South American ethnic Cinnamomum tamala, is listed by Please see internet article for
medicine, but a major use for the CIMAP 1997 as suffering from Bibliography

Celebrities Smell the Profits
NOVEMBER 27, 2004
last week when I came across an Celebrity fragrances are noth-

I WAS LEAFING THROUGH A MAGAZINE
ad that stopped me in my tracks. It was for Donald Trump: The
Fragrance.
ing new, of course. The Internet is
crowded with people trading rare
bottles of Cher's Uninhibited (it
What could that possibly smell like, I wondered? Arrogance and lasted roughly two years in the mid-
self-promotion? Bad hair and bankruptcy? 1980s), Michael Jackson's perfume
in a special hologram package and
Then I realized that in any art of the deal, smell is actually second- Elvis' aftershave. Remember
ary. Increasingly, cosmetics and clothes are marketed by making you Elizabeth Taylor's White
feel kinship with the person doing the selling. Think Martha Stewart. Diamonds? If not, you weren't con-
Think Michael Jordan. The right star selling the right product can make scious in the early '90s.
all the difference. There's a reason Richard Simmons doesn't shill power
tools and Ernest Borgnine isn't peddling panty shields. What's new is the amount of
money to be made from these vani-
Donald Trump isn't the only celebrity with a fragrance on the marty vapors. Celine Dion's scents
ket (although he is one of the few males; actor Alan Cummings also has have sold roughly $10 million this
his own cologne). You can barely turn the page of a glossy magazine year, while J.Lo's Glow and Still
without encountering perfume ads for Britney Spears, Paris Hilton or are past the $200 million mark.
Celine Dione. This may seem like small change
given the American fragrance
Want to feel closer to Jennifer Lopez? Try her Glow perfume. industry's $3 billion in annual rev-
Feeling a little bit Crazy in Love? Spray on some of Beyonce's True Star enues, until you note a 3 percent
or Britney's Curious. decline in perfume sales in recent
years. The right celebrity can cause
The companies behind these high-profile scents are quick to certify beauty products to fly off shelves.
their star's involvement. They're asked to sniff aromas until the cartilage
in their noses collapses, and given license to suggest a bit more laven- And the right TV show? Wal-
der or cinnamon or babbling brook. Mart is about to find out; it has
developed a perfume called
Let's face it: No diva worth her salt would put her name on some- Enchantment tied to the All My
thing that can eat through bone. Children soap opera. I suggested
the slogan "A day's drama in a bot-
tle." They didn't return my call. everything you want in a body

wash.
Studying the Donald Trump ad
got me thinking that maybe I
should name a fragrance after
myself. I'm not a star and I can't
buy and sell people. I like to think
of myself as an "everyman" with a
wee bit more girth and seasoning.
Then again, I don't have to be

somebody to get my own cologne.
A growing number of companies
will sell you the secret to making
your own fragrance or, for a little
extra, actually develop one for you.
There's a company in England that
asks you to fill out an Internet ques-
tionnaire, send them $70, and then
builds a scent to suit you.
I was halfway through the sur-

vey when I realized peanut butter
and patchouli sounds better on
paper than in reality. And when
they asked for my favorite aromas,
I got stuck on macaroni and cheese.
That's not a fragrance; it's a sign of
mental illness.
Then, of course, there's the

problem of a name. You can't just
call it "Stuff I like to sniff" and
expect people to be enamored. And
the best names already have been
taken (Eternity, Beyond Paradise,
Hai Karate) or ring too true (Sweat
Masker). No wonder they test mar-
ket new products to death.
Maybe, as my friend Ander

Murane suggests, I should just call
it "Napalm in the Morning." It's
Store Makeup & Bacteria
NOVEMBER 28, 2004
VEN IN THIS MERRILY METROSEXUAL ERA, there are fundamental dif- and examined material from the
E ferences between men and women. open samples available to the pub-
lic, not the sealed containers sold to
I asked Irene Malbin, vice president of a 600-member customers. And they emphasize
trade group called the Cosmetics, Toiletry and their findings do not indicate seri-
Fragrance Association in Washington, DC, for comment ous illness inevitably awaits those
who try on rouge at the mall.
Take makeup - a product about which I guy-ishly admit I know
absolutely nothing. But they note their study does
suggest basic housekeeping,
So imagine how surprised I was to learn that some women try on hygiene and common sense are
blush, foundation and other equally mysterious potions from open con- sometimes lacking - and are surely
tainers often available for sampling purposes at cosmetics counters. in order for buyer and seller alike.
And I was even more surprised by the results of a recently complet- "We saw women take lipstick
ed, double-blind study conducted by Rowan University professor right off the counter and put it on,"
Elizabeth Brooks, a physician, and senior Heather Ragozine. says Brooks, 36, a podiatrist who
has been an assistant professor of
Turns out that, depending on the day of the week, up to 100 percent anatomy and physiology at Rowan
of between 30 and 50 samples - taken from the open containers on the for six years and lives in Medford.
counters of various Philadelphia-area department stores and/or drug-
stores - were contaminated with bacteria. "Some (salespeople) give you a
sponge, but some use their fingers,"
This despite the bright lights, white lab coats and ambience of pris- adds Ragozine, a 21-year-old
tine-ness that prevail among major cosmetics departments. Marlton resident who plans to go to
medical school.
(The level of contamination varied from product to product. The
"control" cultures, into which sterile swabs with no makeup samples As a condition of being allowed
were introduced at the same time, showed no evidence of bacterial con- to conduct their research, Brooks
tamination.) and Ragozine agreed not to reveal
the names of the retailers that gave
Brooks and Ragozine point out that they swabbed, cultured, stained them access to their stores.

They did their work over a two- Drug Administration. I couldn't get
year period at stores in South anyone from the FDA to return my
Jersey, Pennsylvania and Delaware. call Friday, but I did find an online
Products for the skin, eyes and lips reference to that 15-year-old study,
were tested, representing 20 which apparently found that "over
brands. 5 percent of samples collected
(nationwide) were seriously con-
All of the samples taken on taminated with such things as
Sunday mornings (after the busy molds, other fungi, and pathogenic
Saturday shopping day) were con- organisms."
taminated with bacteria; the per-
centage of those taken on Saturday, As for the Rowan study,
Friday and Wednesday mornings Ragozine calls it "very education-
was smaller. Nevertheless, up to 66 al." In the absence of providing
percent of the latter samples customers with individually pack-
showed evidence consistent with aged samples, she says wiping sam-
the presence of yucky little organ- ples with standard antibacterial
isms such as E. coli. wipes ought to help lessen contam-
ination.
Given that sales of cosmetics
and related products total about $30 And Brooks has excellent
billion annually in the United advice for anyone wishing to test a
States, the study has been picked up sample from a common container:
by United Press International and is Forget putting it on your face. "Just
beginning to turn up on the Internet put it on your wrist."
on places such as www.aphrodite-
womenshealth.com.
I asked Irene Malbin, vice pres-

ident of a 600-member trade group
called the Cosmetics, Toiletry and
Fragrance Association in
Washington, D.C., for comment.
"We haven't seen the study," she

says. "But we live in a world of
bacteria. It's a fact of life."
The association is not a regula-

tory agency. Nor does it gather sta-
tistics; Malbin says she's unaware
of any other studies, except for a
1989 report by the U.S. Food and

Shampoo & Its Safety
DECEMBER 5, 2004
EW RESEARCH IS RAISING CONCERNS ABOUT THE SAFETY OF A PRE-

N SERVATIVE that is commonly found in shampoos and other com-
mercially available cosmetics. But cosmetics industry officials say the
diseases such as Parkinson's or
Alzheimer's. Again, Aizenman is
quick to point out that there is no
additive has been proven safe over years of use. direct evidence linking MIT to
these disorders. But he adds that
Occupational Exposure to Additive Is Bigger live animal studies are needed to
Worry, Researcher Says clarify the risk.
In laboratory studies, the bacteria-killing agent methylisothiazoli- "It is very difficult to find
none (MIT) was shown to restrict the growth of immature rat nerve shampoos and conditioners that do
cells. Studies in live animals are needed to confirm the findings. But not contain MIT, and it is in many
researchers say the early test tube evidence suggests that prolonged other cosmetics, as well," he says.
exposure to MIT, or exposure to the chemical at high concentrations, "I can't tell you that using shampoo
could damage the nervous system. is unsafe, but I can't tell you it is
safe, either."
The research was presented Sunday at the annual meeting of the
American Society for Cell Biology in Washington D.C. A statement issued Friday by
the nation's largest cosmetics indus-
Fetal Development a Concern try trade group called the
University of Pittsburgh research
The biggest potential concern, says lead researcher Elias Aizenman, "meaningless for safety evaluation
PhD, of the University of Pittsburgh School of Medicine, is for the purposes."
fetuses of pregnant women exposed to high doses of MIT on the job.
The agent is widely used in industrial settings. A Cosmetic, Toiletry, and
Fragrance Association spokesper-
"If the data that I am seeing does translate into some sort of neu- son pointed out that the level of
rodevelopmental problem in people, then the risk to the developing MIT in shampoos and other com-
fetus of a woman who is exposed to this agent in [its concentrated form] mercial products is extremely low.
may be significant," Aizenman tells WebMD.
"The experiments conducted
Another concern is that occupational exposure or routine use of with (MIT) on extracted rat nerve
commercial products that contain MIT could trigger nerve-damaging cells in laboratory containers do not

remotely resemble the possible Sources:

consumer exposure to this preser-
vative," the CTFA statement says. American Society for Cell Biology
44th Annual Meeting, Washington,
Aizenman says he became D.C., Dec. 4-8, 2004.
aware of MIT while researching the
mechanisms associated with the Elias Aizenman, PhD, professor of
death of brain cells. He found that neurobiology, University of
the agent activated a novel pathway Pittsburgh School of Medicine.
that promoted cell death in the lab-
oratory setting, and showed in ear- News release, Cosmetic, Toiletry,
lier work that adult rat brain cells and Fragrance Association
died when exposed for short peri-
ods to MIT at high concentrations.
In their latest work, Aizenman

and colleagues exposed immature,
developing rat brain cells to very
low concentrations of MIT roughly
1/100 of the dose used in the previ-
ous study. Low-level exposure for
18 hours was found to slow down
cell growth. The higher the dose the
brain cells were exposed to, the
more effect there was.
Aizenman acknowledges that it

is "a big leap" to suggest that MIT
exposure in the womb could play a
role in the rise of developmental
disabilities in children. But he adds
that the questions raised by his
research need to be answered.
"I would caution that based on

our data, there very well could be
neurodevelopmental consequences
from MIT," he notes. "Clearly,
more study is needed, with both
scientists and government regula-
tors equally engaged."

Rich Stink with Wealth, Trump
DECEMBER 10, 2004
HIS HOLIDAY SEASON, FRAGRANCE COMPANIES ARE LITERALLY TRYING of germs, perhaps antibacterial
T TO BOTTLE AND SELL THE AROMA OF MULTIMILLION DOLLAR BONUSES,
private jets, and trophy babes. November saw the launch of both Donald
soap?
Trump: The Fragrance and Wall Street, billed by its creator, Bond No. What Donald Trump: The
9, as the "world's first financial fragrance." Fragrance is supposed to smell like:
The first impression is fruits and
But the notion that there is some correlation between wearing scents vegetables. "Bright citrus notes are
that reek of money and actually making money seems counterintuitive. sparked with hints of refreshing
My line of work and geographic location put me in contact with plenty mint. Cucumber notes, fluid and
of millionaires (and thanks to the underinvestment in the commuter rails fresh, are complemented by crisp
and New York City subways, much closer contact than any of us would herbaceous accents of black basil."
like). Not that I've sniffed too aggressively, but I've never noticed a dis- Next comes a "masculine blend of
tinct or recurring bouquet on any of them. select green and aromatic notes"
that includes extracts from "the sap
Nonetheless, for the sake of inquiry, I put the scents to a decidedly of an exotic plant" and provides
unscientific test in the marketplace of public nostrils. "warm woody undertones." And
finally, "herbaceous [again!] and
Donald Trump: The Fragrance spicy notes drawn from different
vetiver notes." (Vetiver is a wild
Who is behind it? Aramis, an arm of savvy cosmetics giant Este grass found mostly in tropical
Lauder. We haven't seen it placed in the current season of The locales.)
Apprentice because (shocker!) the series was filmed last summer.
What the "Moneybox" appren-
The marketing pitch: Wear this "uncompromising scent," middle tice (6-year-old daughter) says it
managers, and you can be like the Donald! "elegant, masculine, and smells like: women's perfume.
devastatingly sexy." The Trumpesque bottle it's gilded and resembles a
skyscraper captures "Mr. Trump's unparalleled confidence, success and The effect: I open the vial, and
character." It is available exclusively at Federated Department Stores the smell of bad debt and over-
outlets like Bloomingdale's and Macy's. The cost: $60 for a 3.4-ounce priced condos wafts through the air.
bottle, or $282 a pound. I saunter down Fifth Avenue near
Trump Tower, lips pursed, eye-
What Donald Trump the person smells like: No idea. Given his fear brows fluffed up. Nobody really

gets out of my way. But there are What Wall Street the place really mine. The day brings no takeover
signs that the essence of Trump is smells like: grilled hot dogs, bids, friendly or otherwise.
seeping through my pores. I pass exhaust from vehicles digging a
Tiffany's flagship store and begin to trench on Broadway, cigarette The ultimate conclusion: Of
think about how I can barter media smoke from the nicotine junkies course, fragrances are meant to
placement for a piece of expensive huddled in doorways. And, in the evoke images and fantasy. But it's
jewelry. Later, as I stop at a bakery summer, sweat from the traders clear that pricey scents aren't what
to buy a baguette, a middle-aged who have to wear those jackets no Donald Trump and Wall Street
woman steps aside to make room. matter how hot it is. Inside, it's not titans plaster all over themselves to
Could she be paying deference to much better. If Wall Street trading convey an aura of confidence,
the stench of power? Possibly. floors smell like anything, it's stale wealth, and frisson (androgynous
More likely she was just angling to food, flat soda, and testosterone or otherwise). Something tells me
get a better look at the sourdough with overtones of tasteless jokes odorless brokerage statements and
loaves. and conflicts of interest. copies of the "Forbes 400" issue
would be far more effective.
Wall Street What they say Wall Street the
fragrance really smells like: some-
Who is behind it: Bond No. 9, thing quite similar to Trump: The
which is marketing a portfolio of Fragrance, actually. Its brisk top
fragrances based on Manhattan notes are redolent of "citruses, fresh
neighborhoods: Wall Street, cucumber, and sea kale accord a
Riverside Drive (hints of lox from reminder of New York harbor." The
Zabar's?), and Nouveau Bowery. (I midnotes are drawn from the pista-
don't even want to go there.) chio and bitter orange trees, and the
base notes are "sexy musks, vetiver,
The marketing pitch: and ambergris."
Metrosexual financial wannabes
with cash to burn who are in sync What the Moneybox apprentice
with lower Manhattan's "very up- says Wall Street smells like: car-
to-date androgynous frisson" (?) rots.
and prefer class to Trump's mass.
An exclusive product, Wall Street is The effect: I apply the fragrance
not "hooked up to any celebrity" generously and feel self-conscious.
and is available at Bond No. 9's Man enough? I meet with my
stores and at tony Saks Fifth agent, who says I look like I've lost
Avenue. The cost: $190 for 3.4 weight. But isn't it part of his job to
ounces, or $ 894 per pound. "This is pump up the fragile egos of
the scent to start a bull market. Just schlumpy writers? Ed. Later, I con-
be prepared for very friendly duct an interview with an executive
takeover bids." Bond No. 9 is giv- whose net worth likely runs in the
ing a portion of the proceeds to eight figures. I notice that he is not
lower Manhattan nonprofit Wall wearing any fragrance, though his
Street Rising. suit is plainly much nicer than

Skin & Botanicals
DECEMBER 17, 2004
OTANICAL SKIN CARE PRODUCTS CREATED A NOT-SO-NATURAL REAC- actually want to stay away from,"
B TION for one Houston woman. Katta said. "I see problems with
shampoos, makeup, hand creams."
Loophole Allows Companies To Say Products Are
Fragrance-Free Katta specializes in skin aller-
gies and said botanical products are
Botanical products may sound replenishing, but some dermatolo- big for business.
gists say a lot of natural products are not the best bet - especially
people with sensitive and dry skin. "You can actually say in the
United States that you are a fra-
From avocado, grapeseed, vanilla and apricots, you can find a vari- grance-free product but if you have
ety of natural ingredients in your soaps and shampoos. But, are these botanicals that's considered a loop-
products good for your skin? hole," Katta said.
"I was looking for something that would make my hair behave bet- The dermatologist said botani-
ter," Lisa Loya told Local 2. cals are just that fragrances.
Loya's choices were endless tea tree oil to ginger mint to shampoos "This may smell really good but
with Hawafena extract. I don't know how soothing it's
going to be," said Katta, who warns
However, Loya had a severe allergic reaction to botanicals that her patients to watch out for
affected her hands, scalp and back. extracts. "If you look (pointing to
ingredient label), the fifth ingredi-
"This is absolute misery. It's 24 hours a day, 7 days a week your skin ent is pea extract and then there's
absolutely feels like it's at war with itself," Loya said. "My skin would violet extract."
just split. Your body starts to swell because your just one giant allergic
reaction." Katta said extracts could cause
redness, itching and irritation in
Loya is not alone, according to Baylor College of Medicine derma- people with sensitive skin.
tologist Dr. Ragani Katta.
"If you read the ingredients on
"If you have sensitive skin or eczema, natural is something you may products, they're putting all kinds

of plant extracts in things," Loya

said.
She now has to examine every-

thing she puts on her skin because
"the itching is so severe you can't
stop itching."
Katta recommends people with

sensitive skin use Aquaphor and
Cetaphil. She also tells them to use
mild soap, like Dove, when bathing
and to apply a mild lotion or cream
when the skin is still damp to trap
in the moisture.
Finally, Katta suggests using

fragrance- and dye-free laundry
detergent.

Making Fragrances
DECEMBER 24, 2004
OLLOW YOUR NOSE ON A FRAGRANT JOURNEY THROUGH THE SCIENCE, about Perfumes Special Crafts for
F HISTORY AND ART OF MAKING PERFUMES. Experiment with countless
fragrance combinations on your way to becoming a master perfumer.
Your Perfumes Advice for Safe
Experimenting
Learn how your nose and olfactory system work with your brain to Contents:
sense and recognize smells.
The kit includes these parts:
How to Become a Perfumer for $ 49.95 Experiment Manual Four Basic
Perfume Oils (20 ml each):
Play games with your sense of smell and taste. Read about the long Lemony, Woody, Flory, Musky
history of perfumes and take a peek into the perfume industry today. Four Creative Perfume Oils (10 ml
Discover where natural and synthetic fragrances come from. Use veg- each): Orienta, Mentha, Mella,
etable shortening to extract the fragrant oils from rose petals. Find out Tropica Finalio Perfume Finisher
what makes a perfume different from a cologne. Design your own per- (50 ml) 5 Cotton Pads 2 Flacons
fumes and learn how perfumes are meticulously composed. Train your with Caps Atomizer Cap for
nose to recognize the components of complex scents. Make a scented Atomizer 2 Dropper Pipettes
potpourri and a sweet-smelling sachet with your homemade perfumes. Book of Smell Strips 2 Measuring
Design the perfume that suits you perfectly, and surprise your friends Cups with Lids 2 Stirrers Funnel
with perfumes made specially for them. Perfume Science introduces 5 Mini Flacons with Caps
young perfumers to the biology, chemistry and techniques behind fra- Perfume Bottle Labels
grance design. This kit is a complete perfumers laboratory including 8
high-quality perfume oils, decorative flacons (small bottles) for storing Ages 30 and up.
your perfume creations and important tools of the trade. The 48-page
full-color manual is full of information about the biology of smelling, Product box dimensions
the chemistry of perfumes, the fine fragrance industry and the history of (inches): 14.5x11.5x3.25
perfumes.
Product Shipping Weight
Topics and Experiments Setting Up Your Perfume Laboratory (pounds): 5
The Physiology of Smell Smell Memory & Taste Test Games The
History of Perfumes Extracting Fragrances from Plants Where Do Great training tool saves casas lots
Fragrances Come From? Perfumes Head, Heart & Base Notes of money.
Training Your Nose Learning to Work as a Perfumer Composing
Perfumes from Formulas Designing Your Own Perfumes Fun Facts

Company Closes its Doors
DECEMBER 31, 2004
DANA PERFUMES INC. CLOSED ITS MANUFACTURING PLANT could return to Luzerne County and
N EW
THURSDAY AFTER 40 YEARS OF OPERATIONS at the Crestwood
Industrial Park, leaving 200 people without jobs.
expressed concern for the displaced
workers.
The perfume company, producer of classic scents such as Tabu, "I find this very upsetting,"
English Leather and Love's Baby Soft, announced last month that the Cowger said. "A lot of the people
plant would close at the end of the year. here, this was the only jobs they
ever had in their working life. It's
The plant is owned by Dimeling, Schreiber & Park, a Philadelphia sad to see the jobs go. I still think
investment firm that bought the bankrupt company in 1999. there was a chance to save them.
But, that activity was out of our
All inquiries were deferred to Peter Schreiber, a partner with the hands."
firm, who could not be reached for comment.
In a three-part operating agree-
But, the closing of the plant doesn't mean the end of the familiar fra- ment, the two separate companies -
grances, said Al Cowger, executive vice president and general counsel New Dana Perfumes and Dana
of Dana Classic Fragrance. Dana Classic is a separate company that Classic Fragrances - worked side
holds the trademark to the names and formulas of the fragrances and by side at the 99,000-square-foot,
markets, distributes and sells the perfumes. one-story structure to manufacture,
bottle, market, sell and ship the
Cowger said a New Jersey company would take over the bottling products.
operation and the distribution center would be moved to Florida, closer
to corporate headquarters. He would not disclose the name of the bot- The Florida-based Dana Classic
tler because the contract is not finalized. owns the Dana trademark and pur-
chased the bottles, supplies and
Dana Classic's administrative office, which employs about 35 peo- components used in the manufac-
ple, will move to another building in the Crestwood Industrial Park. ture of the perfumes. Dana Classic
paid New Dana to make the prod-
"There will be a transitioning of about 30-60 days but our products uct, fill the bottles and store the
will not be changing at all," Cowger said. inventory. Dana Classic handled all
marketing, sales and shipment of
He did not rule out hope that the manufacturing end of the business the products.

The 200 positions eliminated Schreiber & Park for $29 million. Brought to you by:
by the plant's closing are New Dana
employees, including about 130- Renita Fennick, a Times Leader World Trade Organization &
140 workers who are represented staff writer, may be reached at 829- the Treaty of Free Commerce and
by the Paper, Allied-Industrial, 7246. the North American Free Trade
Chemical & Energy Workers Agreement
International Union. Photo Not Shown:
Do they actually teach how to
About 20 workers were kept on An employee of New Dana perpetrate these types of frauds in
to clean up the plant, Union Perfumes Inc. enters the Wright school?
President Jack Keiling said. Township building on the plant's
final day of operation. About 200 Possible Courses:
New Dana officials promised to workers, including 140 factory
provide severance pay after all employees, lost their jobs. Running a Scam 101
equipment is sold, according to
Keiling. On the Net: Fraud 235
"I just hope that (New) Dana www.dsppartners.com & Espionage 105
sticks to their word," he said.
"Some people have some accumu- www.danaclassics.com Modern Swindles 103
lated vacation time.
Authors Notes: Ponzi Capers 115
"It was a sad day, there were a
lot of tears," Keiling said. File for bankruptcy that wipes Tax Evasion 200
out several hundred million in debt.
Dana Classic is wholly owned How to Lie Successfully to the SEC
by Isaac Cohen and was formed in Layoff a hundred workers. by Martha Stewart $ 29.95.
January. Cohen is the former presi-
dent and chief executive officer of Open the company under a new Has a new gourmet cook book
New Dana. name in Florida with non union coming out titled: How to make a
workers. gourmet meal on a hot plate. A
Dana was founded in Spain in perfect gift for those spending time
1932, the same year that Tabu was Compensate the upper eschelon with the government.
introduced. who figured out this scam a nice fat
bonus.
The company opened the
Mountain Top plant in 1963. In Eventually ship everything to
June 1999, Renaissance Cosmetics China to take advantage of a skilled
Inc., Stamford, Conn., the parent cheap work force.
company of Dana Perfumes Corp.,
filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy Corporate greed at its finest.
protection. A month later, Dana
Perfumes was sold to Dimeling,

Flowers to Iraq
JANUARY 5, 2005
ES!THOUSANDS OF FLOWERS TO THE MEN OF THE YEAR! Thousands manent wish, and I'll let you do the
Y bouquets of roses, red roses, love roses to the Iraqi Resistance. To
the heroes, who are writing shining pages of the history against the most
rest. We wish for the mercenaries
US and co. hundred more IEDs and
horrifying blood thirsty Hydra in mythology or in documented history. thousands more bullets and many
And all is happening, again, in Mesopotamia. All is happening again in more resounding tactical defeats for
Iraq. God bless Iraq for the New Year. Many more flowers to Saddam Tarzan Abizeid and more confu-
Hussein, the living martyr who engineered, conceived, planned and put sion, stuttering, and stammering for
into practice the resistance against the US barbarian invaders in the land the pirates boss Bush the silly holy
of Sinnaar, Sinn, the god full moon. and the stupid lump.
Sorry and sorry. I didn't want to spoil this occasion by talking about Flowers, flowers, flowers.
the US yobs. They are so far away from any thing noble. They are so Rains of flowers. Showers of
alien to any thing refined, generous and grand. They are so strange from petals. Clouds of sent and perfume
beauty. They slaughter singing birds, they stamp on flowers and their will surround you. Their fragrance
army of gangsters happily kills innocent Iraqis of the age of flowers. will inhabit the martyrs. Their rain
of petals will purify Iraq from the
Today, I wanted my most loved Iraqi Resisters to talk to you in a lan- invaders filth.
guage of flowers. No other language can possibly be more appropriate
on this occasion. You have been fighting with your faith filling your Flower language is different
hearts the US monster in Mesopotamia, for the last twenty-four months from country to country. Here I will
or so. You will for this New Year, get a special present. You will have use the French flowers language.
on your heads, above your black beautiful, Sumerian eyes, on your The French. Guess why? And let
wheat cloured bodies millions of the river Tigris banks roses petals. them stuff their bowls with more
and more Abu Ghraib freedom
How can I start, how can I dare talk to you? You who abandoned the fries. They will not be able to
most precious and the dearest, your souls, your young lives, families understand any flower language, be
and children to carry the cross of your love for Iraq, for the love of the French, Iraqi or Palestinian! So it is
Iraqi plains, Iraq's mountains, its date palm tree groves, its sacred soil. a secret between two lovers, face to
face, it is a whisper under a palm
Pardon me but I can't help it! Allow me to talk about the enemy you tree, on the plains, in the moon-
are fighting. You have been giving us good news after good news light.
defeating the enemy of mankind. Here I promise you, even the gang-
sters will have more rapped gifts, not surprise ones I admit, it is a per- Twenty-four flowers, for the

twenty-four months we saw the While your enemy is hated will grow by the thousands.
Beast being humiliated in the mire from the rising sun to the setting
of the Land-Of-The-Two-Rivers. sun, the world over will continue to For you the most dignified of
This language will say it all and respect you and to love you Iraqis. all, the martyrs, a faithful souvenir
more to greeting you for a new and So there will be no chamomile bou- and many bouquets of forget-me-
happy year. quets to declare the end of their nots. For your shed blood for the
love for you. multitude of humanity, irises from
For an affectionate and tender tender hearts. Your martyrdom
love here are many pansies. I am Billions of human beings all offered security and pride to Iraq
not a kind of flighty heart. My love around the planet are watching you; and we cover your holy tombs, the
is not a timid or a shy love I shall they have put all their hope in your shrines of your remains, with
shout it on the minarets of Fallujah. courage. They admire your gen- mimosas. The humanity, will give
I shall scream it on the Assyrian erosity, they shout waving their you rendezvous, with my over-
walls of Nineveh. I beg you to hands holding a multitude of mauve whelming heart, soon very soon,
believe me. Here I am hugging in lilacs screaming in rhyme and God willing, in liberated Iraq, hold-
my arms bundles of blueberries. rhythm, and our hearts are with ing tight against my breath, covered
From the very beginning I was in you. They kneel in respect for your with my tears, overcoming my
love with you. Now let me declare raging ardor, for vowing your souls fears, many fears, fields of gladio-
my love to you all. I love you Iraq. for your beloved Iraq and they las.
Here are mountains of roses, red shower you and spread on your feet Yes, you can reproach all your
roses, and here are with my love, perfumed carnations or French Arab brothers who once said we
with my tears, with my naked marigolds. These people are so didn't believe you, by offering them
hands, with my prayers, with an proud of you that they are jealous, sweet peas. These Arabs who were
embarrassed sigh, with one handful they would've like to have your devastated to see Iraq occupied and
of the soil of Iraq in one hand and might, your devotion, they have doubted one second in your
in the other a spray of tulips from would've liked to still carry your courage and determination, give
Nineveh, from Mosul. To tell you ideals and be able to give their lives them a handful of buttercups. As
how much I love you and to express for their principles as you do. I for those who love you immensely
the joy of my love to you Iraqi mean a friendly jealousy and they in their heart and hide their love
resistant fighters please here are a rain on you cyclamens. The whole because of tyrant regimes and
shower of azaleas. For your perse- planet sees nobody but you Iraqi eunuchs kinglets, they will send
verance I will offer you gardens of resistant fighters and make you you soon tons of violets.
anemones! For the nights you don't signs with millions of daisies and
sleep and the days you never rest, the other half planet respond And for the living martyr
for your outstanding sacrifices, singing we love you Iraq and say Saddam Hussein twenty five mil-
there are plantations of snapdrag- let's love each other from now on lion date palm trees.
ons. For the purity of your love for and they will let you have white
Iraq, I will spread on your proud lilacs fields spreading to the hori- Happy New Year Iraq! Happy
foreheads millions of lilies. For zons. New Year Iraq!
your faith and you fervor, forest of
orchids. For your sincerity, and for For the Tigris and the Euphrates For 2005 the world says: US
your loyalty, please accept, bunches coquetry you loved so much and Imperialism we wish you a great
of red peonies. you still love, lilies of the valleys defeat in Iraq.

Marketing & Ads
JANUARY 6, 2005
hen I get a magazine, the first thing I do is turn it upside down earlier magazine sniffing. Now I'm
W and shake out all the subscription post cards. stuck with an entire bottle of
expensive cologne and, for some
your skin. Still, I tear each one open, trying to trick my reason, a product loyalty that just
mind into thinking each fragrance is different from the won't wash out.
one before. They all smell the same pugh!
That so-called "free sample"
The second thing I do is tear open the cologne samples folded into smeared into the glue on the maga-
advertisements and give them a sniff. The verdict always is the same. zine insert really played a trick on
They smell exactly like the entrance to Marshall Field's, Yonkers or any my mind, even though I don't real-
other department store that welcomes you with counter after counter of ly enjoy its smell. My favorite
fragrances. cologne, in fact, is Classic from
Banana Republic. A bottle of
Cologne samples in magazines always fill my nose with that very that particular fragrance costs less
distinct smell, which then creeps throughout every page of the publica- than half as much as Tommy, but it
tion. It never smells the same as the cologne does from a bottle or, espe- never has been advertised in the
cially, after it is spritzed on your skin. magazines I read.
Still, I tear each one open, trying to trick my mind into thinking each For some reason, that must
fragrance is different from the one before. But after the first one, they mean a lot to me. Last week, when
all smell the same. (I've learned you're supposed to sniff coffee beans I went to Banana Republic, I
between fragrances, but I'm not the kind of person who keeps that type wouldn't even let myself buy a $12
of thing around.) trial bottle of Classic. That loyalty
has not been built into my life. I
I'm not sure where this marketing scheme originated, but it's bril- must not be alone, either.
liant. I know for sure I have fallen victim to buying one or more of those
advertised fragrances based on that quick whiff. At places like Bath and Body
Works, there are samples of every
They are the reason I have a new bottle of Tommy probably my product available to try. Just this
sixth or seventh bottle of the men's fragrance from designer Tommy week, one of the workers at the
Hilfiger -- in my medicine cabinet. It doesn't mix that well with my nat- Birchwood Mall store caught me
ural scent, so I rarely use it. In my head, I thought I liked it based on my sneaking in the store just to squeeze

a "sample" of my favorite lotion.

(Don't worry, I have my own bottle
at home. It's definitely not my first
bottle of that product, either.)
Smell is our strongest scense

and, so it appears, the power of
advertising kind of stinks, too. At
least it does when it comes to
breaking out of habit and buying
cologne I actually like.

Foul Body Odours
JANUARY 9, 2005
OMETHING SMELLS FUNNY. DO YOU SMELL IT? It's like burnt citrus Repeated phone calls to Trump
S blended with lavender over new acrylic socks worn during a 30-
minute run on a treadmill at a gym near the banks of the lower Hudson.
headquarters went unanswered. But
sources close to the
Please tell me you smell it. No? Try bringing this newspaper up to your billionaire/multi-millionaire/mil-
nose and take a good whiff. lionaire/broke guy confirm he has
been behind closed doors 'produc-
Maybe scratching this column will help. You know what? Never ing' Donald Trump: The Fragrance
mind, it just occurred to me that newspapers have always lagged behind for several months. Approximate-ly
in the scratch-and-sniff technologies. once every 15 seconds, eavesdrop-
ping apprentices hear 'You're fired!'
Nevertheless, what you would be smelling, if you were capable of following by the spritz of an atom-
smelling what I smell, is none other than Donald Trump. Donald izer. At least they hope it's an atom-
Trump: The Fragrance, to be more precise. (Actually, I did smell Trump izer.
once in the early '90s right before someone tried to throw me off a bal-
cony at one of his casinos. But that is a story for another day.) If, shockingly, it doesn't sell, it
will likely find its way to a landfill,
The Donald launched his own brand of cologne in November with eventually seeping into groundwa-
the sole purpose to make the entire world smell just like him. It's not as ter and affecting fish and cattle
nutty as you might think. (The scent, I mean.) For $60, you get 3.4 grazing nearby. If it does sell, we
ounces of what I can only assume is one of his bodily fluids in a bottle will all smell like a womanizing
that looks like Trump Tower. With subtlety at its core, passers-by will megalomaniac. (That one hit a little
be certain to mistake you for one of the richest men in the world (or a close to home.) Either way, it
bankrupt loser), a television star (or a reality show dink) and/or a mid- stinks. Thank God General
dle-aged man with a paunch and golden comb-over. Electric, which owns NBC which
airs 'The Apprentice,' knows a thing
Shockingly, when asked what attracted them to Trump, not one of or two about contamination and
his past and present amours like Marla Maples, Melania Knauss or the dredging.
herd of other nameless models, mentioned his smell.
Not surprisingly, Trump isn't
Clearly, the main question to be asked here is whether or not the the only odiferous offender making
EPA will need to be brought in to dispose of this stuff if it turns out to fragrant fouls. (Nice, huh?) Jennifer
be as successful as Trump Shuttle. Lopez, Celine Dion, Jessica

Simpson, Beyonce, Britney Spears,

Paris Hilton, Elizabeth Taylor and
Kim Catrall all have their own
scents for the masses. And that's
just the ladies.
Antonio Banderas, Michael

Jordan, Alan Cummings, Boston
Rob from 'Survivor' and even the
guys from Orange County
Choppers have come to the conclu-
sion that they have an odor the
whole world could get behind.
Even Sean Combs is releasing a
fragrance so you can smell like 'P'
(Diddy, that is).
All of this brings up an interest-

ing point (about time, huh?): If you
could smell like anyone, who
would it be? Or, more importantly,
should we even smell at all?
According to olfactory experts,

smell is the strongest sense tied to
memory. Meaning, when we smell
something familiar, it can trigger
vivid memories. For example,
when I smell a certain perfume that
my very first girlfriend wore, I have
a tendency to fumble with bras for
the next two weeks.
But I digress. My point is that

aspiring to smell like Donald
Trump or Paris Hilton should be
recognized as the first step to
admitting you have big personal
problems. How about we all smell
like Ivory Soap for a while? OK,
Ivory Soap that has rubbed up
against Jennifer Lopez.

Toxic Shampoos filled with Danger
JANUARY 23, 2005
NATIONAL INSTITUTES OF HEALTH have found a gating the safety of such products.
R ESEARCHERS AT THE
correlation between an ingredient found in shampoos and nervous
system damage. The experiments were conducted with the brain cells of
Instead, the FDA spends the vast
majority of its time approving new
rats and they show that contact with this ingredient called methylisoth- prescription drugs rather than pro-
iazoline, or MIT, causes neurological damage. tecting the public against the dan-
gers from such drugs or personal
Which products contain this chemical compound MIT? Head and care products like shampoos, soaps,
Shoulders, Suave, Clairol and Pantene Hair Conditioner all contain this deodorants and fragrance products.
ingredient. Researchers are concerned that exposure to this chemical by
pregnant women could put their fetus at risk for abnormal brain devel- In fact, it may surprise you to
opment. In other people, exposure could also be a factor in the devel- learn that manufacturers can put
opment of Alzheimer's disease and other nervous system disorders. practically any chemical they want
into shampoos, even if it is a haz-
The chemical causes these effects by preventing communication ardous chemical listed in the
between neurons. Essentially, it slows the networking of neurons, and RTECS database of toxicity and
since the nervous system and brain function on a system of neural net- even if it is considered a toxic
works, the slowing of this network will suppress and impair the normal waste chemical by the EPA. The
function of the brain and nervous system. FDA allows all sorts of chemicals
to be used in these products, includ-
These finding were presented December 5th at the American ing chemicals that are known car-
Society for Cell Biology annual meeting. cinogens and that contribute to liver
failure and nervous system disor-
I have frequently warned readers about the dangers of using brand- ders. How's that for protecting pub-
name personal care products. The vast majority of these products con- lic health?
tain toxic chemical compounds like MIT that contribute to cancer, liver
disorders and neurological diseases. In fact, this chemical, MIT, is just If you thought prescription
one of dozens of such chemicals that are found in personal care prod- drugs were dangerous, just take a
ucts. look at the toxic chemicals found in
personal care products used by vir-
Why are these dangerous personal care products allowed to remain tually all Americans every single
on the market? Because the FDA, which is responsible for regulating day. Americans bathe themselves in
these products, spends almost no time, money or effort actually investi- toxic chemicals and they do it by

buying and using products made by The bottom line to all of this, today: if I was standing on a street
brand name companies that have though, is that every week, it seems corner with a bottle of colored liq-
premier shelf positioning at con- like we see a new announcement uid, and I told you that liquid con-
venience stores, grocery stores and about some toxic chemical found in tained a toxic chemical that caused
discount clubs. personal care products that is relat- neurological disorders, Alzheimer's
ed to either cancer or neurological disease and birth defects, would
One of the more curious per- disorders. And yet week after week you buy that product from me and
sonal care products on the market is these products are being sold by scrub it into your scalp under warm
Herbal Essences Shampoo by retailers and consumed in large water?
Clairol. Personally, I think this quantities by the American people
product is a joke because it's trying who remain oblivious to the real Of course not. But if you're
to exploit the word "herbal" to damage these products are causing buying these popular shampoo
imply that the shampoo is healthy, to their health. products, that's exactly what you're
even though it is primarily made doing right now. Such is the power
with the same ingredients as other Once again, the solution here is of brand marketing in America.
popular shampoos. The first three to protect yourself by learning the
ingredients, for example, are: truth about these products and
water, sodium laureth, and sodium switching to products made with
lauryl sulfate. Big deal, huh? You safe ingredients. There are safe
can find the same three ingredients shampoos, safe soaps, safe laundry
in 99-cent shampoo at Wal-Mart. detergents, dishwashing liquids and
Plus, the product contains all sorts even deodorant products. You don't
of other ingredients that I personal- have to expose yourself to toxic
ly would never allow to touch my chemicals to take care of personal
skin (like methylchloroisothiazoli- hygiene, because whether you
none, if you can believe there's agree with it or not, these disease-
actually a chemical with a name causing chemicals are going to
that long). Think the color of the remain quite legal in the use of per-
shampoo is from the herbs? Think sonal care products for many years
again. Three other ingredients in to come. Why? You can bet that the
the shampoo are Yellow #5, Orange manufacturers of these products
#4 and Violet #2. will fight against any attempt to
regulate or outlaw these toxic
In other words, this is a sham- chemicals. That's because the
poo product purchased by naive chemicals are convenient for such
consumers, in my opinion. People manufacturers. It's much the same
who really know herbs and natural way in which food manufacturers
products can only laugh at a prod- use sodium nitrate in bacon and
uct like this. Want a real shampoo? other packaged meats. It's all about
Buy Olive Oil Shampoo from their convenience rather than pro-
Heritage Products, available at tecting your health.
most natural health stores.
So, here's the idiot test for

Multiple Chemical Sensitivity - All About
JANUARY 23, 2005
OW IT STARTS FOR SOME PEOPLE WITH MULTIPLE CHEMICAL SENSITIV- studying how chemical exposure
H (MCS), the problem begins after accidental exposure to a
ITIES
chemical, perhaps at work. For others, it takes exposure to low levels of
and sensitivity can affect brain
chemistry and cause emotional and
chemicals over months or years before symptoms begin. central nervous system disorders,
such as brain inflammation (toxic
... People affected describe not being able to stand in encephalopathy). Other researchers
line behind people wearing perfume without getting are looking at the immune system
a severe headache, or walk through the and how reaction to one chemical
laundry detergent ... "crosses over" into a reaction to
many chemicals.
The result is sensitivity to many different types of chemicals even in
small amounts, and in things that usually don't bother people, such as However, there is also debate in
perfumes, laundry detergent, or cleaning products. This sensitivity isn't the medical community as to
an allergy in the usual sense, but like an allergy it causes particular whether MCS exists at all. Some
physical symptoms. medical providers feel that the
symptoms are the result of panic or
The Symptons anxiety disorders, and that having
the symptoms is reinforced by
When someone with MCS comes in contact with a substance to physicians and others who believe
which he or she is sensitive, either by breathing it in, eating it, or touch- it's real. Researchers and others
ing it, he or she has a physical reaction to it. Each person affected has point to the fact that when lab tests,
his or her own type of reaction, which can range from mild and uncom- blood tests, etc., are done on
fortable to severe and life-threatening. The most common reactions are patients with MCS, nothing abnor-
headache, fatigue, dizziness, nausea, memory problems, breathing prob- mal is found. They also argue that
lems, feeling like you have the flu, rashes, and hives. Usually the symp- lawsuits won on behalf of employ-
toms fade between exposures, but some people have the symptoms all ees suffering from MCS are based
the time. on bad science and don't prove
MCS exists. Psychological coun-
The Debate seling, they argue, is the only treat-
ment necessary for MCS.
What exactly causes MCS in other words, what the physical
processes are that bring it on is not completely clear. Researchers are Yet try telling someone with

MCS that the symptoms he or she is a private foundation). Techniques

experiencing only happen because for alleviating MCS need to be
he or she believes they will. People established and the medical com-
affected describe not being able to munity informed of what proven
stand in line behind people wearing therapeutic measures exist and
perfume without getting a severe where they are available. The pub-
headache, or walk through the laun- lic also needs to be made aware of
dry detergent aisle in the supermar- the potential misuse of science by
ket without having trouble breath- lawyers, salesmen, and others who
ing, or being unable to pump gas wish to benefit financially from
because they feel dizzy and nau- people suffering from MCS.
seous.
There is hope for people with
The Big Picture MCS, and as time goes by science
will understand even better how to
It took several years before deal with the disorder, and perhaps
"sick building syndrome," a situa- even eliminate it.
tion in which people working or
living in a building become ill from Information for this article was
chemical exposure, was recognized taken from:
and accepted as truly existing. So
too with multiple chemical sensi- Chemical Injury Resource
tivity. Like chronic fatigue syn- Association of Minnesota. What is
drome and fibromyalgia (both of EI/MCS?
which can coexist with MCS),
MCS is finally being recognized by Gots, R. E. (1995). Multiple chem-
the general public, the media and ical sensitivities: Public policy.
the U.S. government. Since 1991 Clinical Toxicology, vol. 33, no. 2,
MCS could be considered a disabil- pp 111-113.
ity under the Americans with
Disabilities Act. Many states have Kurt, T. L. (1995). Multiple chemi-
established registries for chemical- cal sensitivities: A syndrome of
ly sensitive individuals who, for pseudotoxicity manifest as expo-
example, will be notified of pesti- sure perceived symptoms. Clinical
cide applications. Toxicology, vol. 33, no. 2, pp 101-
105.
Understanding MCS
Nelson, Eric. The MCS Debate: A
The next step in understanding Medical Streetfight. The Free
MCS would seem to be the estab- Press, Feb/Mar 1994.
lishment of a clearinghouse for sci-
entific information on the disorder
(either by a national government or

Celebrity Fragrances Stink
JANUARY 25, 2005
ETS FACE IT.MOST CELEBRITIES STINK - LITERALLY. Celebrity fra- poweringly coconut - and vanilla-
L grance lines are giving longtime leaders such as Escada, Versace,
and Lancme a run for their money. Some celebs create their own lines,
scented that I was nauseous after-
ward. She must realize how horren-
while others join the advertising campaigns of established designers. dous her perfumes are, because she
These Hollywood stars realize that they are name brands, and with the feels the need to add a cheap
right marketing, they can be infinitely successful. Who wouldnt want bonus gift with every purchase,
to stick their name on a product and collect revenue for doing absolute- consisting of either a heinous plas-
ly nothing? tic ring or string bracelet (reeking
of Taiwanese sweatshops). Not
Currently, Britney Spears, Paris Hilton, Beyonc, Jessica Simpson, only are her fragrances way over-
J. Lo, Celine Dion, and Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen are among the priced, but theres also a good pos-
women who have ventured into the fragrance market. Additionally, sibility that youll get a complimen-
Antonio Banderas, Donald Trump, and the cast of Orange County tary migraine.
Choppers (a reality show on the Discovery Channel about a motorcycle
shop) are taking a stab at success with their cologne lines. But why After recovering from all of the
would we want to smell like our favorite celebs? Doesnt that seem a lit- J.Lo fragrances, I sampled Britney
tle stalker-like? Lucky for me, I had the opportunity to sample all of Spears Curious. I have to point out
these predominantly sickening scents, thanks to Sephora and Marshall that the bottle is very cute and old-
Fields. fashioned, shaped like a blue dia-
mond with a pump and tassel. The
As I made my way through the extremely bright and colorful fra- smell is Louisiana magnolia,
grance counters, I began my sampling with Tommy Hilfigers True Star, infused with vanilla-musk (brit-
for which Beyonc is the spokeswoman. It has a floral scent with neyspearsbeauty.com). This ended
nuances of sweet pea, honeysuckle, and toasted wheat grains (accord- up being my favorite scent
ing to Tommy.com). I was quite impressed by the fresh smell, although although thats quite disturbing to
when I went to spray a little on the complimentary scent card, I found me, considering the musk is
myself covered from forehead to chin. So beware of the powerful spray made from deer genitals (yuck).
(it could seriously suffocate you)! Anyhow, Id still say it was the best
buy (at only $39.50!) for its appeal-
Next, I ventured over to the display with J. Los fragrances namely ing and light quality.
Glow, Still, and Miami Glow. Glow smelled like glue, Still smelled
like rotten Chinese food, and her newest, Miami Glow, was so over- Jessica Simpsons edible fra-

grance lines, Taste and Dessert, did the other hand, was enough to make
smell delicious, but they made my me gag. If success smells like he
tongue go numb. Im also not sure does (peppery, woodsy, and sweet
about the slogan: Wear it, then all at the same time), Im reconsid-
share it. Sure, she has flavors like ering my desire for success. His
chocolate coconut and fresh- fragrance is even worse than his
baked vanilla, but I dont think Id hair. So, guys, stick to Spirit and
want to eat a subtle bouquet of the Choppers fragrance unless you
crisp green. The sales clerk men- want women fleeing from you like
tioned that mainly 12- and 13-year- youve got a flesh-eating disease.
olds purchase the three types of
DessertsDreamy, Creamy, and Next time youre wandering
Juicy (okay, you cant tell me that through your local department
doesnt sound overtly sexual, espe- store, take my advice and avoid the
cially for a target audience of 12). celebrity fragrance counters. Even
though you may like their music or
Rounding off the womens their acting, just remind yourself
scents, Paris Hiltons Paris Hilton that theres a reason why creating
(isnt the name fitting?) has the fragrance lines isnt their first pro-
scent of frozen apple with mimosa fession. Besides, how embarrassing
blossom (cnn.money.com). It did would it be to say the new perfume
have a citrus aroma, but it smelled or cologne youre wearing is from
manly and was hard to get off my Britney, J. Lo, Paris, or, especially,
hands after much scrubbing. Celine the Donald?
Dions Notes and Mary-Kate and
Ashley Olsens One and Two were
clean, soft, and refreshing at unbe-
lievably affordable prices ($20 and
$12.95, respectively).
As for the colognes, Antonio

Banderas Spirit and the fragrance
from Orange County Choppers
actually werent that awful. I was-
nt surprised that there was only
one bottle left of Spirit. The scent
was light and pleasing with a hint
of lemon. I also couldnt believe
how much I liked the subtle orange
scent of the Orange County
Choppers.
Donald Trumps cologne, on

The Doom of Beauty
JANUARY 31, 2005
E SLAP IT ALL OVER, PREENING AND POLISHING IN FRONT OF THE MIR- change. A practising homeopath,
W ROR BEFORE WALTZING OFF LEAVING A VAPOUR TRAIL OF PERFUME
our wake.
in she sees thousands of patients a
year, all seeking help for a range of
complaints. But it is her other role,
The bathroom cabinet groans under the weight of our assorted beau- as founder of a thriving internation-
ty and grooming products. What would we all do without our hair al company offering a natural alter-
mousse and gels, shampoos and conditioners pledging shiny and man- native to what she calls "skincare
ageable locks, skin softening and anti-ageing potions, shaving foams, junk food" that has placed her at the
deodorants and sweet-smelling soaps? centre of the debate over the chem-
icals we slap on our skin.
All are designed to make us look and feel better. Attractively pack-
aged, backed by multi-million pound advertising campaigns and used at Her company, Barefoot
least once every day by millions. Surely they couldnt actually be doing Botanicals, produces natural, plant-
us harm? based recipes to create skin prod-
ucts that the beauty experts - from
Hilery Dorrian is among a growing band of consumers who believes Carole Caplin to clothes gurus
they might. Trinny and Susannah - are drooling
over. Its chemical-free toiletries are
"Pick up just about any personal care product and you will probably sold in health shops and select
find it contains parabens, which is a preservative with question marks beauty counters, including Jenners,
over its safety," she argues. "Studies show it is a skin irritant, others sug- up and down the country and there
gest parabens may have more serious impacts on health. is a San Francisco office to process
US internet orders.
"Sodium laurel sulphate is found in a lot of shampoos - its a foam-
ing agent - but is also used to degrease engines," she adds. "Its also ter- Yet it all happened by accident,
ribly irritating to the skin, which is why its only allowed to be used in when her young daughter Emily
products that you can wash off. arrived home with lice in her hair.
"Unfortunately, people dont know these things. I think thats "When I went to buy something
wrong." to get rid of them, all I could find
were pretty horrible products with
But, with Edinburgh-born Hilerys help, that may be about to things like organophosphate in

them," explains Hilery. become a respected Edinburgh- of certain dangerous chemicals than
based QC and is now a judge, much older relatives.
With fellow homeopath Hilery dropped out of her Dundee
Jonathan Stallick, she set about cre- University course in social science Among those tested were the
ating a more natural alternative. after discovering acupuncture. Batchelor family, from Trinity.
Drawing on her training in Chinese Despite mum Jan, 47, attempting to
medicine and homeopathy, she set a "My parents were kind of exas- follow a healthy lifestyle, her 15-
pot on the kitchen stove and began perated with me," smiles Hilery, year-old daughter Holly had higher
to create a nit-beating solution now 46. "But when I heard about levels of chemicals in her blood
which exasperated parents were acupuncture, it was like a lightbulb than her grandmother.
soon clamouring to buy. being switched on. I dropped out of
my course and they werent very However, the Cosmetic and
"My kitchen was very small happy." Toiletry Trade Association insists
and there were boxes of ingredients there is nothing to worry about.
everywhere, pots, people coming in She found a course in acupunc- "Legislation requires any cosmetic
to help measure things using a ture at Lemington Spa and moved product placed on the market to be
pipette wed had to borrow from a south from her parents Edinburgh safe under normal circumstances of
chemist friend. It was crazy, but home. use," says a spokesman. "A safety
good." assessment must be carried out by
"Alternative health was very the company responsible through a
News soon spread and before new to a lot of people then," she professionally qualified safety
long they were developing further explains. "Whenever I said I was assessor for each cosmetic product
ranges of chemical-free, 100 per studying acupuncture, people marketed.
cent plant-based products. thought I was saying agriculture."
"Further control is exerted
Today, their business sells Rosa Today, home is in Redhill, just through a list of substances that are
Fina skincare, an SOS range popu- outside London, and her knowledge prohibited from cosmetics and
lar with eczema and psoriasis suf- of the kinds of chemicals used to another list of ingredients that are
ferers and the Solace range of lip make up many of our everyday allowed only when complying with
salves and creams for weather- products has grown as have her specific restrictions."
beaten skin. concerns. But she insists: "Were
not here to trade on the fear fac- Some believe that doesnt go
Business is booming. Yet no- tor." far enough. Mary Taylor, a cam-
one, not even Hilery, could have paigner for safer chemicals with
predicted that the former pupil of CONSIDERING that human environmental organisation Friends
Cranley School - which evolved skin absorbs 60 per cent of every- of the Earth, explains: "One of the
into St Denis and Cranley in 1979 thing it comes into contact with, its problems with many products is
and, four years ago, became part of no surprise that the issue is now that we dont necessarily know
St Margarets School - would end under the spotlight: particularly exactly what is in them. And a lot
up at the helm of a natural cosmet- when a recent study into contami- of chemicals have not been fully
ics business. Her parents had very nation by conservation organisation tested they havent even gone
high hopes for her and her sister, WWF revealed children as young through the basic safety tests.
Leona. But while Leona went on to as nine have higher concentrations

"Take perfume. Many personal

products contain perfume and
many people are allergic to per-
fume. Yet labels often simply refer
to perfume without listing the
chemicals used to produce it.
"And it could be that up to 200

different chemicals are covered by
the name perfume or fragrance.
"Theres a lot of secrecy around and
so much ignorance about what
chemicals might do to us."
Air & Trouble
FEBRUARY 10, 2005
IRST IT WAS SMOKING, NOW US CITIES ARE BANNING ARTIFICIAL FRA- the chemicals seem to get into my
F GRANCES IN PUBLIC PLACES. But, as Kate Hilpern discovers, our love
of perfumes really could be making us sick
system even quicker."
Department stores, theatres and

The effects of fragrance chemicals have become the focus even aeroplanes have become no-
of a new health scare, with campaigns against "passive go areas, he explains. "At work,
smelling" becoming increasingly common.... I've asked everyone to make my
desk a scent-free zone, but that has-
Perfume is the new tobacco. The effects of fragrance chemicals have n't worked and, on a few occasions,
become the focus of a new health scare, with campaigns against "pas- I've had to go home because my
sive smelling" becoming increasingly common. chest feels so tight and I can't con-
centrate," he says. Medications
For some people, second-hand scent is more serious than second- aiming to deal with allergies don't
hand smoke, says to Lindsay McManus of Allergy UK. The onset of work, he claims.
symptoms are quicker and can be debilitating, she explains. "Whilst
some people might get a mild headache from getting a whiff of perfume The US, as well as Canada,
from someone walking down the street, others may be very ill for sev- takes the problem far more serious-
eral days." ly than Britain does. In Halifax,
Nova Scotia, a policy of "no scents
She reports that a growing number of helpline calls are from suffer- makes good sense" discourages the
ers of "fragrance sensitivity", with symptoms including dizziness, wearing of cosmetic fragrances in
fatigue, rashes, hives, watery eyes, sore throat and chest tightness. municipal offices, libraries,
Fragrance sensitivity has even been blamed for learning disabilities and schools, hospitals, courts and pub-
depression. "Normally the blood expels anything toxic," explains lic transport. Santa Cruz in
McManus. "With fragrance-sensitive people this may not happen and it California has banned fragrances
can affect the nervous system." from public meetings, whilst neigh-
bouring Marin County boasts a
Like many sufferers, Josh Devonshire, 32, believes his condition growing number of restaurants with
becomes worse with continued exposure. "I used to enjoy wearing after- fragrance-free sections.
shave in my early 20s," he says, "but now I can't even tolerate others
around me wearing perfumes, colognes or soap. It's particularly bad in Throughout America, the fra-
the winter, when the cold weather dries out my nasal membranes and grance-free office has become

prevalent. In the past three years, a become worse than ever. 'type one' allergic reaction to some-
growing number of fragrant-sensi- "Historically, fragrance has been thing which contains a protein com-
tive employees have claimed pro- for luxury and special-occasion ponent, such as house dust, peanuts
tection under the Americans with use," she explains. "But since the or pollen. A fragrance chemical
Disabilities Act. 1970s, it has become a part of daily doesn't contain protein and can,
life. The use of fragrance has therefore, only cause an irritant
It's not just your sexy new eau increased tenfold since the 1950s." reaction."
de toilette that you may find being
blamed for causing fragrance sensi- A further reason for the Andrew Wardlaw, the president
tivity. Some experts say the condi- increase in cases, she says, is of the British Society for Allergy
tion can be brought on by other indoor air quality. "Homes are and Clinical Immunology, isn't
products with manufactured scents, much tighter when it comes to insu- quite so dismissive. "Fragrances
ranging from laundry aids through lation and we use many more syn- can... cause irritation in someone
to household cleaners. More than thetic fragranced products than we who has an underlying allergy," he
5,000 different fragrances are in used to." says. "Someone with asthma could
products that are used on a daily have an attack triggered by a fra-
basis and they can enter the body She believes many people suf- grance."
through the nose, mouth or skin. fer the effects of fragrances but
haven't yet made the link. Helen June Harris, a 47-year-old asth-
Last month, research found that Lynn, the health co-ordinator at the matic, says the fumes of some
mothers and their babies are being Women's Environmental Network products notably air fresheners and
made ill by products including air (WEN) agrees. "People see a bottle perfumes are enough to make her
fresheners, polish, deodorants and with nice pictures of flowers or start wheezing and, in a handful of
hair sprays. Dr Alex Farrow of ferns on the front," she says, "but cases, have brought on an attack. "I
Brunel University, who led a study what they are actually getting is a wish we could follow in America's
of 10,000 women, found that fre- bottle of chemicals - some of which footsteps by taking this issue seri-
quent use appeared to increase the may be toxic." ously," she says.
risk of diarrhoea, earache and other
symptoms in infants, as well as Since WEN implemented its Many believe this will soon be
headaches and even depression in fragrance-free office-policy a year the case. Anja Leetz of the
mothers. "What the study doesn't ago, she says, staff have reported an European Environmental Bureau
tell us is why and how the fra- absence of headaches, streaming explains that much of the scepti-
grances of these products cause eyes and tightness of the chest, as cism around fragrance sensitivity in
these symptoms," she says. "But well as having a clearer head. UK medical circles is down to lack
what it does suggest is that there is of public information about fra-
an effect. Since more than 40 per But not everyone believes fragrance chemicals and their effects -
cent of families use air fresheners grance sensitivity is a problem. In something that is set to change with
regularly, this is a significant find- fact, it is not accepted as a medical forthcoming European legislation.
ing." condition by the NHS and many
allergists doubt its existence. Dr Fragrance formulas are consid-
Betty Bridges, who runs the Adrian Morris, an allergist from the ered trade secrets, she explains.
Fragranced Products Information Surrey Allergy Clinic, explains: Manufacturers only have to print
Network, says the problem has "You can generally only have a "fragrance" or "parfum" on the

label a term that can hide up to 200 "without perfume". Amyl CinnamicAlcohol - Floral
different chemicals. "For 86 per
cent of these chemicals, there isn't Not to be Sniffed at: Synthetic essential oil with intense
sufficient data," says Ms Leetz. jasmine odour.
"Without this, we can't do safety These are some common aller-
assessments and suggest how the gy-causing fragrances used in per- Used in: perfumes, soaps, cos-
chemical industry should be con- fumes and cosmetics. If its label metics, toothpaste.
trolled. The new legislation will says "parfum", a product could
change this." contain any of these Hydroxycitronellal - Muguet
The chemical and fragrance Cinnamic Alcohol - Hyacinth Synthetic fragrance of lily of the
industries claim their products are valley.
safe, she says, "but at the moment Hyacinth fragrance found in natural
they don't provide proof. Now they fragrances such as hyacinth oil, cin- Used in: perfumes, aftershaves,
will have to". namon leaves and balsam of Peru. soaps, cosmetics and eye creams.
The problem is that it will be at Used in: perfumes, cosmetics, Oakmoss absolute - Moss
least two years until the legislation deodorants, laundry products, soap,
comes in and a further 11 years toothpastes and mouthwashes, and Earthy, woody odour, an essential
before all the data is provided, Ms also colas, vermouths and bitters. oil made from tree lichen.
Leetz claims. "In the meantime, we
advise people to limit exposure by Eugenol - Clove Used in: very common, inex-
opening a window instead of using pensive ingredient in perfumes and
an air freshener and think about Spicy clove odour founds in oils of aftershaves.
what fragranced products are really clove and cinnamon leaf and also in
necessary in their lives." roses, carnations, hyacinths and
violets, with antiseptic and fungi-
Betty Bridges seconds this cidal properties.
advice. "Economics is a lot quicker
than legislation," she says. "If peo- Used in: perfumes, cosmetics, hair
ple start demanding products that products, toothpastes and pharma-
don't contain fragrances, this will ceutical creams.
be a far more effective and faster
solution than waiting for new laws Geraniol - Sweet Rose
to come in."
Rose fragrance present in more
But be wary of products that are than 250 essential oils, including
labelled "fragrance-free" or rose oil and lavender oil.
"unscented", as these may still con-
tain fragrance chemicals. They may Used in: the most widely used
contain a fragrance that is used to fragrance in perfumes and make-
cover up the odour of ingredients. up.
The safest bet is to go for the label

Toxicity of Scent
FEBRUARY 11, 2005
MONDAY URGED THE GOVERNMENT TO 4.5 percent by weight] and the

E NVIRONMENTAL ACTIVISTS ON
FORMULATE REGULATIONS that will govern the sale of what they
referred to as toxic perfumes in the market.
Body Shops White Musk [94.069
mg/kg, or 9.4 percent of total
weight]. By contrast, levels of
36 perfumes carry scent of death, says Greenpeace nitromusks and polycyclic musks
were lowest in Pumas Puma
Apart from bringing the issue to the Bureau of Food and Drugs, we Jamaica Man [0.1 mg/kg], de la
would also start meeting perfume manufacturers to discuss a phase-out Cruz noted.
of hazardous chemicals. ...
Studies have shown that DEP
This developed as Greenpeace released results of a study which con- penetrates the skin and affects the
firmed that several perfumes being sold in the market, have chemicals body following each exposure.
that are hazardous to ones health.
Apart from bringing the issue
The report Eau de Toxines, describes how 36 well-known per- to the Bureau of Food and Drugs,
fumes were tested for two potentially hazardous man-made chemical we would also start meeting per-
groups: phthalate esters and synthetic musks. The study was commis- fume manufacturers to discuss a
sioned by Greenpeace and conducted by a Dutch group TNO phase-out of hazardous chemicals.
Environment and Geosciences from the period 2003 to 2004. Since the presence of these chemi-
cals is rarely indicated on packag-
Current legislation fails to regulate our exposure to these chemi- ing, the public cannot choose to
cals, contained in cosmetics and a host of other products, Francis de la avoid them, de la Cruz said.
Cruz, Greenpeace toxic campaigner, said.
Greenpeace said help is at hand
Virtually all perfumes tested contained phthalates and synthetic with the proposed EU Registration,
musks. Very high levels of one phthalate (diethyl phthalate, DEP) were Evaluation and Authorization of
found in Calvin Kleins Eternity for women (22.299 mg/kg, or 2.2 per- Chemicals (Reach), which could
cent of total weight) and Jean Paul Gaultiers Le Male (9.884 mg/kg, require industry to phase-out haz-
just under 1 percent of weight). ardous chemicals and substitute
them with safer alternatives.
Meanwhile, high total levels of synthetic nitro-and polycyclic
musks were found in Cartiers Le Baiser Du Dragon [45.048 mg/kg, or However, the proposal has suf-

fered from intense lobbying by the

chemicals industry and the US gov-
ernment. Greenpeace believes
Reach will only provide true pro-
tection from chemical hazards
when it puts substitution principle
into effect. This means evaluating a
chemical on its intrinsic hazards
and replacing it with a safer alter-
native whenever possible, de la
Cruz explained.
He added that problems with

current regulations highlight the
difficulty, if not the impossibility,
of quantifying human and environ-
mental exposure to these chemi-
cals, and consequently of determin-
ing risk and acceptable exposure.
With perfumes, for example, our
exposure is often repeated through
applications over days, months and
years and may be further increased
by exposure to other consumer
products. Other perfumes which
have been cited to have toxic ingre-
dients are Floral Dream by Adidas,
Chance by Chanel, Poison by Dior,
Envy Me by Gucci, Boss in Motion
by Hugo Boss, Polo Blue by Ralph
Lauren, True Star by Tommy
Hilfiger, She by Armani, Sunset by
Naomi Campbell and number 5 by
Chanel.

Stars & Their Fragrances
FEBRUARY 18, 2005
T SEEMS THAT ANYONE WHO'S ANYONE OR USED TO BE SOMEONE OR quoted as saying it's good to have
I WANTS TO BE SOMEONE HAS BEEN LURED INTO THE PERFUME BIZ
most powerful scent of all: money.
by the perfume handy for those days when
you can't take a shower. What a
special little piglet she is. Gag.
It's all the rage, you know. Smell it and sell it.
Even the guys are getting in on
Of course, one of the first movie stars to tempt our olfactory nerves the deal. Antonio Banderas has a
was Elizabeth Taylor back in the 1980s when she introduced us all to sexy scent out called Spirit, and
White Diamonds. You know, just before glamour and class flung them- Donald Trump has a new cologne
selves off the Statue of Liberty. out called Donald Trump, the
Fragrance. I understand it smells
And there's a good reason why stars of Taylor's caliber don't sell like bankruptcy with just a hint of
their smells on television anymore. It's because things have gotten a bit brimstone.
more - how can I put this delicately? crass and soulless and, well, slut-
ty. All these fragrances are flying
off the shelf. Why? Because if we
Now we're stuck with Paris Hilton and her new scent called, duh, can't be rich and famous, we at least
Paris Hilton. I mean, come on, couldn't they have come up with some- want to smell like the rich and
thing more original like Tacky or Head on a Stick or Huh? famous. We want to reek of our
idols and imagine we are somehow
And let me tell you, this stuff is so sickly sweet and fruity, teenage connected to them. We are a sick
girls are going to be succumbing to the fumes and dropping in the bunch of freaks.
streets. I wouldn't be surprised if scientists find secondhand Paris Hilton
fumes to be the leading cause of stupidity among our nation's youth. And I think the next step should
be fragrances named for the infa-
Also sellin' how they're smellin' are J. Lo (Glow, Still and Miami mous and/or evil.
Glow), Britney Spears (Curious), Celine Dion (self-titled eline Dion),
Beyonce (True Star) and Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen (also self-titled, Think about it. If Robert Blake
and I'm guessing it smells like rehab) among others. came out with a cologne right now
called Innocent or, heck, even
And just this week Sarah Jessica Parker ("Sex and the City") Guilty it would sell out in a day.
announced she'll be launching her own as-yet-unnamed fragrance. She's Ditto for Michael Jackson. But his

would be called Tito Did It.
And how about O.J. Simpson or

Charles Manson? You know I'm
right. There's no way you're not
gonna buy the sweat-laden Guilty
or sharply sour Psycho Funk.
As for me, well, I don't wanna

smell like someone else. I wanna
smell like me. So I've decided to
create my own fragrances. One for
days, one for evenings and one for
special occasions.
For days I'll combine rain water

and Febreze with fresh baked cook-
ies and Pledge. I'll call it Mornin'
Sugah.
For evenings I'll mix up a brew

of cinnamon, cloves, ham, bourbon
and fresh peaches. I'll call it
Yummy.
And for those special occa-

sions, I think a simple combination
of champagne and strawberries
dipped in chocolate suffused with a
hint of amaretto and brown sugar.
This one I'll just call Wilde.
Grrrrrrr.

Flowers & Peace
FEBRUARY 28, 2005
e - - N S has found a new role She said the city's flower festi-
B AUTY QUEEN TURNED ACTIVIST
vention of the Baguio Flower Festival.

ELIA ANCHO
as a bridge for two North Korean prizes that could help in the rein- val was a logical destination to
introduce Kim Jong-ilia and Kim
Sancho is introducing the flower breeds "Kim Jong Il" and "Kim Il Il-sungia, but North Koreans are
Sung" to Baguio and Benguet flower producers. Jong Il is a North also drawn to the city because of its
Korean breed of peony blossoms that can grow as large as a center table. huge migrant Korean population.
It was named after the current North Korean president.
Many of the Baguio-based
"It's actually called a Kim Jong-ilia," said Sancho. Koreans have relatives in North
Korea and that is a bond they intend
She said Il Sung (or Kim Il-sungia) is a North Korean orchid that to renew, Sancho said.
was cultured to its precise fragrance, in honor of North Korea's founder
and Jong Il's father, Kim Il Sung. The Korean population in the
city comes from South Korea,
Both floral breeds were introduced during North Korea's 50th found- according to the Bureau of
ing anniversary in 1998, she said. Immigration. Many are students,
who go seasonally to the city to
Sancho said the flowers could restore the bridge that United States learn English or to enroll in the
President George W. Bush tried to cut when he declared North Korea city's universities.
part of an "axis of evil" three years ago following the September 11 ter-
ror attacks.The Philippines, a member of the US-led coalition of the But the flowers are not being
willing, has standing ties with North Korea, Sancho said. marketed in the local Korean
community, Sancho said.
She said Philippine and North Korean ties have not gone anywhere
beyond their initial vow of cooperation, and efforts are being made by "These blossoms are ripe for the
the Philippine-Democratic People's Re-public of Korea Friendship Philippine market, and I think
Society to "stimulate real exchanges" between the two countries. Benguet's flower industry should
get a first crack at its marketing,"
Sancho, founding president of the society, said North Korean flower she said.
experts are due to visit the Cordillera's cut flower centers in March to
promote their country's floral treasures.

Ill Effects to Health
FEBRUARY 28, 2005
and Villafuerte said the House com-

R EPRESENTATIVES HAS INITIATED A PROBE ON THEIR DISTRIBUTION
sale in the Philippines. mittees have summoned officials of
the Bureau of Food and Drugs
Camarines Sur Repre-sentative Luis R. Villafuerte said yesterday (BFAD) and the Bureau of Trade
the House committees on health and on trade and industry were con- Regulations and Consumer
ducting an investigation of several popular perfume brands available Protection (BTRCP) to shed light
locally. on the Greenpeace report.
Villafuerte said the Greenpeace International report, based on a "The BFAD and BTRCP have
study by TNO Netherlands, an organization for applied scientific already been directed to submit
research, identified phthalate esters and synthetic musk as being harm- their respective evaluations and
ful to one's health as they could cause irreparable damage to the body. recommendations whether or not
products containing such alleged
He said that in the study, phthalate esters and artificial musk, which toxic chemicals should be allowed
are the main ingredients in several popular perfumes, had been found to to be sold and marketed in the
cause ill effects when they are inhaled and absorbed through the skin. Philippines," he said.
"The study showed that the chemical poisoning by such exposure to Villafuerte said that should the
these substances is not acute but chronic, as their traces stay in our body House inquiry validate the findings
systems and accumulate in the fatty tissues and bladders of the Greenpeace report, the per-
of living organisms," Villafuerte said. fume brands would be altogether
banned from the local market.
He said it was also found that phthalate esters had a bad effect on
the DNA, sperm and lungs and could also cause damage to the liver, Villafuerte said the House
kidneys and testicles. would probe perfume brands such
as Floral Dream by Adidas, In
As for artificial musk, Villafuerte said its accumulation in the body Leather by Aigner, Aqua Naturale,
could cause liver damage and could attack living tissues, interfere with Emporio Armani by Armani, White
brain function and hormone communications. Musk, Eau de Parfum by The Body
Shop and High Speed by Bogner.
He said the study further found that artificial musk detected in
human fatty tissues and blood could weaken one's immune system. He said the list includes BLV

Notte by Bulgari, CK One for Men,

Eternity for Men and Eternity for
Women by Calvin Klein, Le Baiser
Du Dragon by Cartier, Chance No.
5 by Chanel, Poison and Pure
Poison by Christian Dior;
Him by FCUK, Fiorucci Loves

You, Envy Me by Gucci, Boss by
Hugo Boss, My Manifesto by
Isabella Rosellini, Classique and Le
Male by Jean Paul Gaultier,
Nightlife by Joop!, Iris Blue by
Melvita, Waterlove by Mexx,
Sunset by Naomi Campbell, XS
Pour Homme by Paco Rabanne,
and Jamaica Man and Jamaica
Woman by Puma.

City Employee Sues
MARCH 1, 2005
Norwalk - 2003, reminding employees of

Gorman's sensitivity to fragrances.
LeTourneau refused to discuss the
N EMPLOYEE OF THE TOWN CLERK'S OFFICE WITH SEVERE ALLERGIEs to matter with employees, Gorman
A perfumes and other chemicals is suing the city, alleging officials
have done little to cut her exposure to irritants in the workplace and that
alleges in the suit.
she is being harassed. Gorman also claims that, in

retaliation, Garfunkel gave her neg-
Linda Gorman, who joined the staff in October 1995, is seeking an ative performance reviews despite
unspecified amount of monetary damages and attorney's fees. Her her "above average" efforts;
lawyer, Eugene Axelrod of Employment Law Group LLC in delayed providing her overtime
Woodbridge, did not return a phone call yesterday. pay; refused to compensate her sick
time after she had an allergic reac-
According to her lawsuit, Gorman's difficulties began in March tion after painting was done in the
2002, when Town Clerk Andrew Garfunkel hired temporary staffer office; and deliberately moved
Kathleen Bohannan, whose perfume Olmstead's work station "directly
made Gorman ill. outside her door . . . further irritat-
ing (Gorman's) allergies and exac-
Garfunkel circulated a memo asking workers not to wear perfumes erbating her symptoms."
or colognes. He later amended the policy to state that scented materials,
such as body lotions and detergents, could be used in moderation as Gorman alleges that when she
long as they could not be detected within 5 feet of Gorman. approached LeTourneau about
harassment, the personnel director
Bohannan no longer works for the city, but in October 2002, Lisa advised her to "go to counseling
Olmstead, who wore perfume, joined the town clerk's office. (to) learn to get along with
Garfunkel."
According to the lawsuit, Garfunkel and Personnel Director Sara
LeTourneau have not accommodated Gorman's needs and she must take As part of her lawsuit, Gorman
daily doses of prescription allergy medication and receive allergy shots. claims that her allergies constitute a
disability and she has been discrim-
The city's attorney called the suit "very puzzling and troubling." inated against under the Americans
The suit alleges that Garfunkel refused to send a memo in November With Disabilities Act.

Garfunkel would not comment;

LeTourneau did not return a phone
call.
City attorney Jeffry Spahr last

night said Gorman's complaint is
"very puzzling and troubling. Her
claim is she has an allergic condi-
tion to scents, but she took a job
working with the general public.
That seems to be part and parcel of
what her job is. To the extent she's
claiming she can perform the essen-
tial function of her job, I'd disagree
with that."
"Are we supposed to put up a

sign saying 'all members of the
general public can't wear cologne'
in the town clerk's office?" Spahr
asked.
Last March, Gorman filed a

complaint with the Connecticut
Commission on Human Rights and
Opportunities.
A CHRO spokeswoman yester-

day said the commission, after
reviewing Gorman's complaint and
the city's response, decided further
investigation is needed.
But Gorman withdrew the com-

plaint in November before the
investigation started and CHRO
could issue a finding, the spokes-
woman said.

Personal Care Product Use & Its Dangers
MARCH 8, 2005
It turns out that this active

R ESEARCHERS ARE NOW FINDING THAT THE ACTIVE INGREDIENT IN
ANTIMICROBIAL SOAPS AND PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS causes nerve
damage. This really isn't surprising: I've been warning readers about this
ingredient is chemically similar to
Agent Orange. That's right, this
for years. The ingredient is called MIT (methylisothiazolinone), and it was the Weapon of Mass
is found in antimicrobial soaps, hand soaps, dish soaps and a surprising Destruction used in Vietnam. And
number of personal care products. People buy these personal care prod- while it's not accurate to say that
ucts thinking they're protecting themselves from infectious microbes. there's agent Orange in your
They think it makes them immune to viruses and bacteria that might be antimicrobial soap, there is indeed
found in their bathrooms or kitchens, and thus they believe in the a chemical compound that's similar
mythology of using antimicrobial soaps to create a sterile environment in its function, purpose, and molec-
in their own homes. ular structure. Is this something that
you want to be coating your dishes
This mythology has been promoted by the manufacturers of these with? How insane is that?
products who, through clever advertising, propagate the distortion that
bacteria on the kitchen counter and in the bathroom are responsible for Yet it's precisely what millions
making people sick. But the reality is that we don't live in a sterile envi- of Americans are doing each and
ronment anyway: the only thing that prevents you from getting sick is a every day that they use these prod-
healthy immune system. We are exposed to bacteria and viruses literal- ucts. They are literally placing a
ly hundreds of thousands of times each day. It is our immune system thin film of nerve agent chemicals
that takes care of these threats and keeps us safe, not antimicrobial soap. on their dishes, and then drinking
and eating from those dishes. Here,
But many consumers don't understand this. They think that they can Johnny, be sure to clean up your
make their homes spotless; that they can create a level-4 biohazard plate! We washed 'em in something
clean room in their kitchen by using this antimicrobial soap, and that special: nerve toxins!
this will somehow protect them from getting sick. But the reality is that
they're giving themselves nervous system disorders while actually pro- There are a great number of
moting the breeding of resistant strains of bacteria. And thanks to the dangerous poisons in the average
nervous system damage caused by these antimicrobial ingredients, peo- American home. The typical pantry
ple are probably accelerating Alzheimer's disease by using these prod- is loaded with toxic chemicals. This
ucts. No doubt, they are impacting the learning ability of their children is something I've been warning
by poisoning their nervous systems, too. about for years, but most people
just laugh it off and say "If these
things were dangerous, they would- and then there are people using all what's in these products. And then
n't be legal!" Yet they remain per- sorts of personal perfumes and fra- you have to educate yourself by
fectly legal and quite dangerous at grance products that are also loaded reading articles like this so that you
the same time. with cancer-causing chemicals. know what belongs in your body
You've got people putting deodor- and what doesn't. It's not that diffi-
For example, most people still ant in their armpits, and that cult to understand; it isn't rocket
use dryer sheets in their dryer. deodorant contains aluminum science to figure out that the human
These sheets really serve no func- which promotes dementia and body is not a toxic waste dump
tion other than to spread perfume Alzheimer's disease. And if that's (regardless of what the consumer
all over your clothing. They're per- not enough toxicity, you can buy air products companies try to convince
fume sheets. And these perfumes fresheners that will release a mist of you to believe).
are not essential oils harvested from toxic chemicals into the very air The vast majority of these
flowers out in a wild field some- that you breathe so that you can chemicals I'm talking about are
where, they are synthetic chemi- inhale carcinogenic chemicals considered environmental hazards
cals, manufactured in a chemical directly into your lungs. Beyond by the EPA. And yet it's perfectly
plant, and many are highly carcino- all that, we have the shampoos legal for manufacturers to put them
genic. So after washing their which are also loaded with all sorts in their products and indirectly
clothes to get out all the dirt, people of toxic chemicals, and we have the allow consumers to put them into
are then coating their clothes with a cleaning products that contain sol- their bodies. You could be arrested
product that deposits a thin film of vents which directly promote can- if you dumped these same chemi-
toxic chemicals onto their clothes. cer as well as birth defects. And this cals into a stream -- that would be a
In other words, the clothes were isn't even to mention the food sup- violation of federal law. And yet,
cleaner before they went through ply yet, because the food supply in you put them into your body every
the washer and dryer. And now the average American household single day, and that's not only legal,
that they come out of the dryer, contains yet more toxic chemicals. it's actually encouraged by media
they are dangerous to your health, But of course, that's for another coverage, advertisements, depart-
because now they have been soaked article altogether. ment stores, and retailers.
in a toxic chemical cocktail. And
people put these clothes on every So what do you do about all of It is perfectly possible, by the
single day, then walk around and this? Some people say to me "Mike, way, to live a life free of these toxic
produce sweat which moistens the you sure are paranoid about all products. All you have to do is stop
clothes, and that accelerates the dif- these products." Not really, only the buying the toxic products, throw
fusion of such chemicals into their ones that cause cancer and other them out, and start buying products
bloodstream through their skin. chronic diseases. I'm fine with all that actually protect your health.
They do this and then they wonder the other products. The thing is, You could start with your laundry
why they are diseased. They think you can't find those healthy prod- detergent. Go to the health food
their laundry is clean because it ucts at your regular convenience store, or natural grocer, and get
smells like perfume. store or grocery store. You have to yourself some laundry detergent
go to a health food store or a natu- that isn't made with all these fra-
The average American house- ral grocer, and you have to know grance chemicals (a good brand is
hold is a toxic chemical dump. the sources for these products. You Seventh Generation).
People have antimicrobial soaps, have to be smart enough to read
dryer sheets with toxic chemicals, ingredient labels and figure out Switch out all your soap: get rid
of all that antimicrobial soap and

switch to a product like Dr.
Bronner's soap, which is only
scented with natural oils like pep-
permint and almond oil. It's a won-
derful soap, and I strongly recom-
mend it. Throw out all those ridicu-
lous brand name shampoos that are
loaded with garbage ingredients
that actually promote dandruff and
hair loss because of all the toxic
chemicals they contain. A lot of
these products actually cause the
very problems they claim to be
solving. Throw those out! Go with
olive oil shampoo from a company
called Heritage Products.
And throw out all those per-

fumes and colognes, please, people,
you are polluting the air for every-
one else who actually has olfactory
senses remaining. Maybe you can't
smell yourself because your nose
has been dulled from years and
years of use of these products, but I
tell you what - everybody else can
smell you! And we're tired of it.
Take those products, throw them
away and try to live a day without
smelling like an artificial fragrance
factory, for God's sake.
And while you're at it, throw

out the antimicrobial soap. Er, wait
a minute, that might be an EPA vio-
lation. Better call a chemical waste
processing facility and see if they
can take it off your hands in an
environmentally responsible way.
Just don't be foolish enough to coat
your skin with it.
Does Musk in Fragrance Weaken the Body?
MARCH 16, 2005
in products "Fragrances and fragrance

S YNTHETIC MUSKS THAT ARE WIDELY USED AS FRAGRANCES
such as soaps, cosmetics and detergents may reduce the body's abil-
ity to defend against toxic compounds, says a study in the January issue
ingredients are safe. The ingredi-
ents used to make fragrances have
of Environmental Health Perspec-tives. been extensively researched, and
fragrances have a long history of
About 8,000 metric tons of synthetic musks are produced worldwide safe use dating back hundreds of
each year. years," Glenn Roberts, executive
director of the Fragrance Materials
In laboratory research using mussel gill tissue, researchers at Association, said.
Stanford University's Hopkins Marine Station found that exposure to
synthetic musks inhibited the tissue's natural defenses against toxic "Nitromusks and polycyclic
compounds from California mussels. This effect persisted long after the musks (PCMs) are among the most
end of the tissue's exposure to the synthetic musks. thoroughly researched and tested
fragrance ingredients. Their safety
The synthetic musk levels used in this study were several times for human health has been exten-
higher than those found in the environment, the study authors noted. sively tested and affirmed by
However, these musks concentrate in fats, including breast milk, and numerous regulatory agencies and
remain in human tissue long after exposure. This means that long-term academic scientists around the
exposure to these synthetic musks could result in tissue concentrations world. The results in this paper do
high enough to impair natural cellular defenses in humans, the authors not impact the safe use of nitro-
suggested. musks or PCMs, nor alter their
environmental risk assessment,"
"While other studies have shown that humans are constantly Roberts added.
exposed to musk compounds, routine toxicology screens have always
shown these compounds to be nontoxic. This study's suggestion that More information:
they could harm the body's ability to fight other toxicants certainly mer-
its further examination," Dr. Jim Burkhart, science editor for The U.S. Environmental
Environmental Health Perspectives, said in a prepared statement. Protection Agency outlines expo-
sure pathways of hazardous sub-
The fragrance industry, in a prepared statement, disputed the find- stances.
ings.

Beauty & Phthalates
MARCH 17, 2005
Phthalates - Chu says she would also like to

make companies list any phthalates
on product labels but has set aside
HE CHEMICALS USED IN SOME COSMETICS, may keep your nail polish that politically more difficult task
T hard and shiny and your tresses thick and glossy, but in animal tests
they cause birth defects, disrupt hormone systems and lead to reproduc-
(the industry argues that rejigging
its labeling process presents huge
tive problems. economic burdens and could
infringe on trade secrets).
Those are just a few of the reasons the European Union recently
banned them. Now, despite a huge outcry from the $35 billion cosmet- During last year's legislative
ics industry, some California lawmakers are trying to ban phthalates in session, Chu's original bill (AB
the U.S. 2012), would have prohibited
phthalates and forced cosmetics
California Assemblywoman Judy Chu has introduced a bill that manufacturers to disclose to state
would ban the same two types of phthalates as the EU did. In part officials any hazardous chemicals
because the FDA does not conduct pre-market health testing of cosmet- in their products. That bill failed to
ics ingredients (nor require cosmetics makers to do so), Chu was moved pass the Assembly Health
to present a similar bill last year that would have banned phthalates and Committee after intense industry
other chemicals blacklist ed by entities like the International Agency for opposition.
Research on Cancer, the European Union and the Environmental
Protection Agency. "They probably spent millions
lobbying against it," says Chu.
Those efforts were defeated. But if passed this session, Chu's "They flew people in from New
Phthalates Ban Bill (AB 908), would be the first ever phthalate ban in York and spent days and days lob-
the United States. bying members." Supporters of the
bill, ranging from the United Food
"After three decades of extensive studies [on] carcinogens and and Commercial Workers to the
reproductive toxins, the EU banned two phthalates and those are the two Breast Cancer Fund were no match.
that I am proposing to ban," Chu said in a recent telephone interview.
"It is outrageous that American women aren't given the same protec- This time around, the cosmetics
tions that European women are. How can a whole continent of women industry plans to mount the same
be protected yet Americans ignore this?" kind of campaign.

"We intend to vigorously companies to find safer chemical liver injury and liver cancer, among
oppose any similar legislation this formulations, and by boosting con- other things. But the agency says
year," says Irene Malbin, a spokes- sumer awareness, optimists say the human impacts "have not been
woman for the Cosmetics, Toiletry ban could shift corporate behavior well-studied" even though a 2002
and Fragrance Association, a trade in American markets and stoke CDC study reported that every one
organization in Washington repre- political will to regulate. of 289 persons tested for a study on
senting 600 companies such as the plasticizer dibutyl phthalate
Revlon and Mary Kay. That could well be true, says (DBP) had the compound in their
Chu. "Last year it was difficult to bodies.
The bills come amid growing get attention on this issue because
public uneasiness over cosmetics nobody had heard of phthalates," Despite this, the FDA, by law,
ingredients, especially after the EU Chu said, adding that Europe's can do little. In the agency's own
ban, enacted in 2003 and imple- momentum has helped raise aware- words, "a cosmetic manufacturer
mented in September 2004, prohib- ness among lawmakers. may use almost any raw material as
ited the use of chemicals, including a cosmetic ingredient and market
phthalates, known or suspected of Already, the EU ban has pushed the product without an approval
being toxins, mutagens and repro- some companies to change their from FDA."
ductive toxins. ways. Responding to the ban and
activist pressure, L'Oreal and The Environmental Working
Activists say the ban, the bills Revlon said in letters to the Group, a frequently cited watchdog
and the issue of phthalates all tell a Campaign for Safe Cosmetics that organization, sums up the issue:
tale of regulatory lapses, flawed they are in conformity with the new
scientific argument, and negligence law. In a December letter, a L'Oreal Phthalates are recognized as
from a powerful industry that, senior vice president wrote that the toxic substances under environ-
oddly enough, is the nation's pri- company's products are in compli- mental law, but companies are free
mary arbiter over the safety of cos- ance with the EU cosmetics direc- to use unlimited amounts in cos-
metics ingredients. tive "no matter where they are sold metics. An environmental release
around the world." And a Revlon of just 10 pounds of DBP must be
Jeanne Rizzo, director of the spokesperson penned a letter in reported to environmental authori-
Breast Cancer Fund and director of December stating that "all products ties under the Superfund law. The
the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, sold by Revlon are currently in full cosmetics industry, in contrast, puts
hopes the European ban will help compliance" with EU directives. hundreds of thousands of pounds of
give cosmetic safety -- long buried DBP into nail polish each year,
in the environmentalist's in-box -- The story of phthalates is one of with no requirements for safety
its overdue day. an industry on the loose, thanks to testing or reporting to anyone.
failed environmental and health
"Cosmetics-makers who sell their legislation. Until states or the federal gov-
product in Europe will have to ernment exert more regulation, the
reformulate their products and we According to the Centers for principal arbiter of cosmetic safety
are arguing that they use those Disease Control and Prevention, will continue to be the industry
reformulations here," Rizzo said in different phthalates have different itself, in the form of a panel of sci-
a telephone interview from her abilities to produce in animal stud- entists funded by CTFA, the indus-
home in California. By forcing ies effects such as testicular injury, try trade group. The Cosmetics

Industry Review panel, or CIR, is for industry to claim considerable tiple exposures," says Rizzo. "We
staffed by scientists and two non- safe use over many years is to don't have exposures to one lipstick
voting members, one from FDA wholly neglect the fact that we have or deodorant. Every day we face
and one from the Consumer no publicly verifiable way of know- multiple exposure to these things
Federation of America. The panel ing such a claim is true," says Nick and there is not regulation that
is paid by CTFA to pass safety ver- Guroff, the group's California looks at that.
dicts on chemicals used by its cor- organizer.
porate members. "Ask yourself, if these chemi-
His sentiments are echoed in a cals aren't dangerous, why do salon
In 2002, for the second time, report by the Environmental workers wear masks?"
the CIR ruled that diethyl (DEP), Working Group. After analyzing
dimethyl (DMP), and dibutyl CIR documents, the group reported Kelly Hearn is a correspondent
(DBP) phthalates were safe. And that the panel hasn't determined the for the Christian Science Monitor
the level for human risk was found amounts of DBP that are absorbed and a former science and technolo-
to be 36,000 times lower than the in people's bodies from cosmetics. gy writer for UPI.
amount that caused no effect level Nor has it determined the full range
in animals, says Dr. Gerald of products in which DBP is an
McEwen, CTFA's vice president of ingredient.
science.
CTFA's McEwan says cosmetic
Dr. McEwen, contacted in his safety is proven by the rarity of
office in Washington, stressed that hospital admissions.
CIR adheres to the same conflict-
of-interest standards as the FDA "One of the indices of safety is
and is staffed by only top scientists a surveillance of emergency rooms
who produce peer-reviewed called the Electronic Injury
reports. Recent European Union Surveillance," he says. "If you look
regulations, he claimed, are politi- at emergency room admissions,
cal in nature, tacked together under you'll find that cosmetics are less
public pressure without solid scien- hazardous than, say, pillows and
tific proof. The industry's safety mattresses."
procedures are healthy, he says. He
also said the panel has reviewed Activists chaff at such argu-
some 1,200 ingredients used in cos- ments. That people don't stagger
metics and determined that nine into emergency rooms with acute
were unsafe for use and taken off cosmetics poisoning has nothing to
the market. do with it. The debate is about the
long-term effects of a low-dosage
The National Environmental soup of chemicals and, more broad-
Trust, another watchdog group, is ly, lack of control over the industry.
less sanguine. "Because the FDA "There is not the kind of precau-
does no pre-market health testing of tionary review to determine long-
chemical ingredients in cosmetics, term effect of low-doses from mul-

Another Celebrity Scent
MARCH 18, 2005
ell, perhaps the glitterati aren't wrinkling their collective nose McConaughey (Stetson) is shilling
W every time we pass by. But the stars are hoping we'll use our
noses to take a whiff of what they're offering.
other people's scents.
In particular, Bloom says,

Do we really smell that bad? Kidman's glitzy but sophisticated
partnering with Chanel No. 5 was
America's celebrities seem to think so. "brilliant."
Seems like you're no one in Hollywood circles unless you're bran- The recent ad campaign, which
dishing your own perfume bottle. Britney, Paris and Jessica. J.Lo, included a commercial helmed by
Celine, Antonio Banderas and The Donald. And, coming soon to a per- Kidman's "Moulin Rouge" director
fume counter near you: fragrances by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, Baz Luhrman, was "romantic and
Cindy Crawford and P. Diddy, not to mention tennis stars Andy Roddick mysterious."
and Maria Sharapova.
"It made people say, 'I like
Whew, that's a lot of spritzing. Or should that be p-ewwww? With Nicole Kidman. I think I'll try that
all those fragrances floating around, it's a wonder we can breathe. fragrance again,' " Bloom says.
But apparently we are inhaling, and for a pretty sum prices average Celebrity fragrances aren't new,
$39 to $60 a bottle. Although the marketing-information group NPD of course. Elizabeth Taylor helped
Beauty reports that fragrance sales have remained flat with purchases launch White Diamonds in 1991,
totaling a billion dollars for first nine months of 2004 - celebs are pump- but Bloom says it wasn't until 2002,
ing up an otherwise stale industry by adding a splash of glamour and when Jennifer Lopez introduced
name recognition, according to some analysts. Glow, that the trend really took off.
The fragrance raked in a reported
"Celebrities are bringing people back to the fragrance arena," says $80 million and, in 2003, Lopez
Rochelle Bloom, president of the Manhattan-based Fragrance gave a repeat performance with
Foundation, a nonprofit trade organization. Still Glow. In 2004, she launched
yet another scent, Miami Glow.
It's not just about stars hawking their own fragrances, either; these
days, everyone from Nicole Kidman (Chanel No. 5) and Catherine Zeta- If you're picturing Lopez and
Jones (Elizabeth Arden) to Beyonc (Tommy Hilfiger) and Matthew stars like her hard at work in the

lab, decked out in designer smocks fect fit for us." recent stroll past a Macy's counter
while they test out perfume top in Arden Fair mall.
notes, think again. Likewise, Aramis viewed going
into partnership with Donald "It just didn't really do anything
But some celebrities do get Trump as a way to capitalize on the for me it didn't make me want to
involved when it comes to deciding business icon's celebrity and repu- smell it again," Scott says.
how to develop and sell a signature tation.
scent. And if anyone knows about
"Donald Trump is a business- fancy smells, it's Scott, 56, of south
Britney Spears took a hands-on man, a TV personality he's respect- Sacramento. With more than 30 fra-
approach to the September launch ed and admired and he clearly has grances in her collection, Scott says
of her Curious perfume, says an audience in America," explains she makes a point of keeping up
Tamara Steele, vice president of Robin Mason, vice president of with the latest scents.
global marketing for Elizabeth global marketing for Aramis, a
Arden. division of Este Lauder. While Scott also turns her nose
up at Britney's Curious ("It smelled
From deciding on her favorite Although Trump wasn't as too sweet, like a little girl's per-
scents (magnolia and vanilla musk) involved in the direct development fume"), she's a fan of J.Lo's Miami
and design (blue-and-pink packag- of his men's fragrance "He trusted Glow.
ing and a vintage-style atomizer) to our expertise and put a lot of the
appearing in TV and print ads and responsibility in our hands" Mason "It seemed very sensual and
sending text messages to fans, says the "Apprentice" star nonethe- gave me a lift," says Scott, who also
Spears was "totally involved" every less brought his "Midas touch" to counts Calvin Klein's Obsession
step of the way, Steele says. the fragrance that launched in among her favorites. "It just seems
November. very sophisticated."
The result, she says, is a fra-
grance, package and ad that are "He was very committed to She'll continue to keep her nose
"very sophisticated, beautiful and talking about how it should smell in overdrive and, if she likes what
young - very Britney." and how the packaging should she smells, keep her wallet open,
look," Mason says. "He wanted Scott says.
Oh, OK. something that was modern, sensu-
al and sexy - something that today's But while industry analyst
The appeal of working with man would wear." Bloom predicts that shoppers such
Spears was clear and simple, adds as Scott will continue to collect fra-
Steele, from her office in But Dawn Scott isn't too grances, she says the celebrity trend
Manhattan. impressed with Trump's latest ven- will eventually fade.
ture.
"She's a trendsetter and people "My guess is that next year,
are interested in all aspects of her "It's OK, but I thought it would there will not be as many celebrity
life. She's a celebrity, an entertainer you know because he always has a fragrances," Bloom says. "It's like
(and) a fashion icon. lot of women be more appealing to reality TV. There will be winners
women," says Scott, who sniffed a and all the others will fall to the
"Britney just seemed like a per- quick whiff of the cologne on a wayside."

About the writer: ish," "delicate and sexy." coconut cream and honey.
The Bee's Rachel Leibrock can be Average sniff rating: One nose What we think it smells like: As if
reached at (916) 321-1176 or "you've been in the kitchen dabbing
rleibrock@sacbee.com. Celeb: Jennifer Lopez frosting behind your ears,"
Fragrance: Miami Glow although one tester thought it to be
Sample spritzes of fragrances "generically girly but not particu-
by the famed Cost: $42 for 1.7 ounces larly bad."
What does celebrity smell like? What they say it smells like: Pink Average sniff rating: One-and-a-
We took five of the latest celebrity grapefruit, coconut water, passion half noses
fragrances and put our noses to the fruit and black currant.
test. Here's what we sniffed out.
What we think it smells like: "A
Celeb: Britney Spears warm humid day," "tropical,"
Fragrance: Curious "spicy" and "on the sweet side, but
with a citrus edge."
Cost: $39.50 for 1.7 ounces
Average sniff rating: Three noses
What they say it smells like: The
Louisiana magnolia (Spears' home- Celeb: Donald Trump
state flower) and vanilla musk. Fragrance: Donald Trump, The
Fragrance
What we think it smells like:
"Something a teenage girl would Cost: $60 for 3.4 ounces
wear," "very sweet and cloying" yet
"pleasing." What they say it smells like:
Cucumber and citrus with spicy,
Average sniff rating: Two noses peppery accents.
Celeb: Paris Hilton What we think it smells like: "A

Fragrance: Paris Hilton cucumber salad," "masculine and
clear" and "lighter than expected."
Cost: $39 for 1.7 ounces
Average sniff rating: Three noses
What they say it smells like: Frozen
apples, peach nectar, Mimosa and Celeb: Jessica Simpson
jasmine petals. Fragrance: Taste
What we think it smells like: A split Cost: $45 for 1.7 ounces
decision: One camp found it "cloy-
ing," "sweet, sweet, sweet" and What they say it smells like:
"kind of trashy." The other, "girl- Tahitian vanilla, white chocolate,

Do Cosmetics Cause Infertility Problems
MARCH 17, 2005 - PUBLICATION DATE NOT KNOWN
ARCINOGENS IN COSMETICS? PETROCHEMICALS IN PERFUME? If only It does. I think of it as global poi-

C this were an urban legend. Unfortunately, it's a toxic reality, and it's
showing up in our bodies.
soning. I think that the ubiquitous
contamination of the human
species with toxic chemicals is a
Author Stacy Malkan reveals the dangerous truth symptom of the same problem (as
about everyday products we put in our hair and on global warming), which is an econ-
our skin. omy that's based on outdated tech-
nologies of petrochemicals petrole-
In 2004, scientists found pesticides in the blood of newborn babies. um. So many of the products we're
A year later, researchers discovered perchlorate, a component of rocket applying to our faces and putting in
fuel, in human breast milk. Today, people are testing positive for a litany our hair come from oil. They're
of hazardous substances from flame retardants to phthalates to lead. byproducts of oil.
In her new book, Not Just a Pretty Face: The Ugly Side of the Many cosmetic products on the
Beauty Industry, Stacy Malkan exposes the toxic chemicals that lurk, market right now claim they are
often unlabeled, in the personal care products that millions of American pure, gentle, clean and healthy. But,
women, men and children use every day. as you reveal in this book, they're
far from it. Toxic chemicals in these
AlterNet spoke with Malkan about these toxins and her five-year products are showing up in people.
effort with the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics to get the beauty industry What were some of the most sur-
to remove them from its products. prising toxins you discovered in
cosmetics?
Heather Gehlert: There are so many environmental issues you could've
written a book about. Why cosmetics? Lead in lipstick was pretty sur-
prising. We (the Campaign for Safe
Stacy Malkan: I think cosmetics is something that we're all intimately Cosmetics) just released that report
connected to. They're products that we use every day, and so I think it's last week. Many personal care
a good first place to start asking questions. What kinds of products are products have phthalates, which is
we bringing into our homes? What kinds of companies are we giving a plasticizer and hormone disruptor.
our money to? That's why we started the cosmetics
campaign -- because we know that
It has something pretty interesting in common with global warming too. women have higher levels of phtha-

lates in their bodies, and we metics should raise concern for think that's an interesting discon-
thought that cosmetics might be a men too, regardless of whether they nect that we're looking at how to
reason. But, I think overall, the use any themselves. How so? treat disease, but we're not looking
most surprising thing was to know at how to prevent disease.
that there's so much that we don't Well, men do, first of all, use per-
know about these products. Many, sonal care products. When I ask a You admit in the book that you used
many chemicals are hiding in fra- group of people what products to be addicted to makeup and so-
grance. Companies aren't required they've used today, the men will be called personal care products. Do
to list the components of fragrance. keeping their hands down and you think that could be related to
Products also are contaminated eventually, reluctantly, raising their the health issues you've had?
with carcinogens like 1,4 dioxane hands because they're using sham-
and neurotoxins like lead that aren't poo, conditioner, deodorant, Well, who knows, and we can never
listed on the label. So it's difficult cologne, lotion. say what caused what and so that's
for consumers to know what we're why risk assessment is not a useful
using. So it's not just a makeup problem. tool to how do I want to say this
that's why, in my opinion, we need
Generally speaking, risk assess- No, it's not just a makeup problem. to get rid of toxins wherever we
ment involves two factors: a hazard It's all products. And we know that possibly can in makeup, shampoo
and people's exposure to that haz- some chemicals in these products and lipstick is obviously a place
ard. Could you explain some of the are particularly problematic for where they don't need to be. But,
unique challenges to assessing risks men. We're all exposed to phtha- yes, I did use a lot of cosmetic
with cosmetics? lates, and phthalates interfere with products 200 chemicals a day just
the production of testosterone, and in those products. And I also grew
That's a good question. Risk they're linked to health effects like up in a very industrialized neigh-
assessment is an extremely over- lower sperm counts, birth defects of borhood near one of the largest
simplified way of pretending we the penis, testicular tumors. incinerators in Massachusetts, near
have enough information to know oil refineries. And we really didn't
how much chemicals we can toler- You've had to struggle with some talk about these issues at all.
ate in our bodies. A risk assessment scary health problems. Tell us
equation will say, "How hazardous about that. Do you think part of the problem
is a chemical, how much are we with creating awareness around this
exposed to it from this one product, Like many of us, I've had bizarre issue is that the effects from toxins
and is that harmful?" There's a lot health problems that nobody can are often not that immediate?
of information left out of that pic- explain: benign lumps in my People don't say, Oh, I've been to
ture: studies that haven't been done breasts and thyroid, which is quite this toxic site and now I have a rash
to determine impacts on fetuses, the common among young women to all over my body.
fact that we're exposed to so many have thyroid problems. And then
of these chemicals in so many also infertility, which is something Right, and that's what we hear from
places every day, and the fact there that's becoming an increasingly the cosmetics companies when they
have been no or very few studies common experience for people. say, "Well, my product is safe if
about chemical mixtures. And so many of us have heard from used as directed, and you can't
our doctors, "Well, we don't know prove otherwise." Which is true.
In chapter 2, you say that toxic cos- why; we can't tell you why." But I We can't say that use of X product

led to X disease because we're talk- that address cosmetics. But it didn't harmful toxins removed, go to
ing about long-term diseases with give the FDA the power to require Europe, and others, with toxins, go
contributing factors. Doctors usual- testing (cosmetic) products before to the U.S. Why is that?
ly can't tell us why we got cancer, they go on the market. The FDA
because it could be due to multiple can't require follow-up health mon- Well, it's outrageous, but Europe
factors in our pasts. We also know itoring; they can't even recall prod- has much better health protection
that exposures during critical win- ucts. Basically, the FDA has to laws, and they really take a precau-
dows of development babies in the prove in court that a product is tionary approach. The European
womb, even teenagers can lead to harmful before it can take action. Union has banned 1,100 chemicals
later-life diseases. There were several attempts to reg- from cosmetics that are thought to
ulate the industry over the years, cause cancer or reproductive harm,
Can you give me an idea of how and the most well-known was in the and so they take a precautionary
many chemicals one product can 1970s with Thomas Eagleton, a approach by saying, "We know
contain? Earlier you said you were senator from Missouri. He pro- these chemicals are hazardous."
exposed to 200 chemicals a day posed that cosmetics should be reg- Nobody argues about that. Instead
during your youth, but that's not all ulated more like drugs, where of arguing about at what level are
from one product. there's a rigorous testing protocol they safe in products, we need to
that has to happen before products take them out of the products and
No, I used about 20 products a day. go on the market, but that was shot figure out how to make products
The average woman in the U.S. down and co-opted. What the without them. The United States,
according to our survey uses 12 industry has done is propose volun- on the other hand, says, "We need
products a day with about 180 tary regulations every time a regu- to be able to prove that an ingredi-
chemicals. And men use about six latory threat arises. And so the sys- ent in this product causes harm
products with 80 chemicals com- tem that we have now is an indus- before we're going to do anything
bined. But it depends on the prod- try-sponsored and run panel called about it. Consequently, there are
uct. Some products have dozens of the Cosmetics Ingredients Review lots of known toxins in consumer
chemicals -- fragrances can have Board, which is in charge of deter- products. It's not just cosmetics.
dozens or even hundreds of chemi- mining the safety of ingredients in Another example is formaldehyde
cals that aren't listed on the label. cosmetics. We found lots of prob- in kitchen cabinets perfectly legal
And even fragrance-free products lems with that panel. They rushed in the United States. You can buy
can have a masking fragrance. through ingredients quickly, they kitchen cabinets, and they're waft-
hadn't looked at most of the ingre- ing the carcinogen formaldehyde
Talk a little about the history of the dients or actually used these prod- into your kitchen. You can't sell
cosmetics industry. When did it ucts and, most of the time, they find those cabinets in Europe, in Japan,
come about and why is it so unreg- things to be safe. Even when they even in China.
ulated? do make recommendations to
restrict or eliminate ingredients, the
The cosmetics industry has fought industry is free to ignore them and
really hard to keep itself unregulat- sometimes does.
ed for the last 30 years. It was first
regulated under the Food, Drug and You say in the book that some com-
Cosmetics Act of 1938. That is a panies have different formulations
350-page law with about 1.5 pages of the same products. Some, with

Cosmetic Dangers
MARCH 29, 2005
Imagine reaching for a tube of lipstick or a can of shaving cream and the risk of breast and skin cancer.
finding this label: ''Warning The safety of this product has not been
determined.'' Hair dye, which can contain coal
tar, which has been linked to blad-
Many cosmetics and personal care products could bear such warnings if der cancer and non-Hodgkin's lym-
the Food and Drug Administration decides they need them. The agency phoma.
would act if it determines that their ingredients haven't been adequately
tested to assure their safety. It's now working to decide that. ''The bottom line is people don't
know what the health effects are of
The FDA in February informed the Cosmetic, Toiletry and the many chemicals we're putting
Fragrance Association, a Washington-based trade group, that manufac- on our bodies every day,'' she said.
turers of untested products may have to add the warning. ''But consumers do have the right to
know who's looking to see whether
There's no hard evidence of any health impact from long-term, low- they're safe.''
dose exposure to the kinds of chemicals in cosmetics, said Lauren
Sucher, a spokesperson for the Environmental Working group, a private A study last year by the
nonprofit research center. Environmental Working Group
found that only 18 of 7,500 com-
Some ingredients in cosmetics, such as methylpentan-2-one, found mon cosmetics and toiletries had
in nail polish, haven't been tested. Others, including triethanolamine, had all their ingredients fully tested
used in skin scrubs, are among the chemicals that researchers fear might for safety. ''So we're talking about
cause cancer. over 99 percent that have never
been fully assessed for safety,''
Targeted Products Sucher said.
Products that could be in line for FDA warnings, based on the ''Companies often do tests of
Environmental Working Group's study, include: short-term acute exposure to see
whether their products make eyes
Mascara, which can contain ingredients linked or potentially linked to water or skin itch,'' she said. ''Often,
cancer. however, they're not looking at
whether they might cause cancer or
Liquid hand soap, which may contain ingredients suspected of raising birth defects that are long-term and

don't affect the profitability of their ''the first glimmer of responsibility that remain unassessed are used in
products.'' in several decades.'' more than 99 percent of all prod-
ucts on the market,'' the group's
Eric Kraus, the vice president Janet Bartucci, the vice presi- statement said.
for corporate communications at dent for global communications at
The Gillette Co. in Boston, which New York-based Estee Lauder, the The Cosmetic, Toiletry and
makes shaving creams and other cosmetics products company, said Fragrance Association, which cre-
personal care products, said: she saw no need for FDA interven- ated the review panel, responded
''Gillette products undergo rigorous tion. ''Because there is so much positively to the FDA's letter sug-
testing, based on the best available testing done by individual compa- gesting stronger federal oversight
scientific information, to assure nies, they haven't had any need to of its products.
that they are safe for use and for our step in.''
employees to make. For us, this ''Even an industry with an
should not be an issue.'' The FDA declined to comment exemplary safety record such as
for this article because it was still ours functions best with a tough
Kraus said he believed that reviewing a petition by the cop on the beat and we welcome
Gillette's product-safety tests Environmental Working Group FDA's action,'' Ed Kavanaugh, the
included determinations of whether seeking recalls or warning labels on association president, said in a pre-
they could cause birth defects or a wide variety of personal-care pared statement.
cancer. products.
In an interview, however, Irene
There's no federal requirement The FDA doesn't assess the Malbin, the association's vice pres-
that the ingredients in such prod- safety of cosmetics and toiletries ident for public affairs, called the
ucts be tested for safety. But feder- before they hit the market, as it Environmental Working Group's
al law requires that cosmetics with does with drugs. The cosmetics ''Skin Deep'' study ''completely
unassessed ingredients include an industry does its own evaluations wrong.'' She said, for example, that
FDA warning label informing con- through an independent panel of there were no known cancer-caus-
sumers that ''the safety of this prod- experts whom it appoints. ing ingredients in cosmetics,
uct has not been determined.'' Until Representatives of the FDA and the although they might be present with
now, the FDA has relied on the cos- Consumer Federation of America, no objections from the FDA in such
metics industry to police its prod- an alliance of public interest products as shampoos and hair
ucts. groups, attend those sessions. dyes.
Sign of Responsibility Since 1976, the panel, known as ''Cosmetics are safe and con-
the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, sumers can have complete confi-
Dr. Samuel Epstein, professor has found 694 ingredients to be safe dence in their products,'' Malbin
emeritus of environmental and and nine to be unsafe. The said.
occupational health at the Chicago Environmental Working Group said
School of Public Health at the the panel had reviewed only 11 per- The use of cosmetics is a $35
University of Illinois and the chair- cent of the 10,500 cosmetic ingre- billion U.S. industry, and the stakes
man of the Cancer Prevention dients recorded by the FDA. for consumer confidence are high.
Coalition, called the FDA's recent
letter to the cosmetics trade group ''The 89 percent of ingredients

Fabric Softner Dangers
APRIL 5, 2005
TV AD WHERE A WOMAN Pentane: A chemical known to be

M ANY PEOPLE WILL REMEMBER A FAMOUS
RACES TO HER WASHING MACHINE, fabric softener in hand, only to
arrive just as the wash ends. This woman who "forgot to ad the fabric
harmful if inhaled
softener" was actually doing herself and her family a favor. How could products with pret-
ty names like Soft Ocean Mist,
Although they may make your clothes feel soft and smell fresh, fab- Summer Orchard and April
ric softener and dryer sheets are some of the most toxic products around. Fresh be so dangerous?
And chances are that the staggering 99.8 percent of Americans who use
common commercial detergents, fabric softeners, bleaches, and stain The chemicals in fabric soften-
removers would think twice if they knew they contained chemicals that ers are pungent and strong smelling
could cause cancer and brain damage. so strong that they require the use
of these heavy fragrances (think 50
Here is a list of just some of the chemicals found in fabric softeners times as much fragrance) just to
and dryer sheets: cover up the smells. Furthermore,
synthetic fabrics, which are the rea-
Benzyl Acetate: Linked to pancreatic cancer. son fabric softeners were created in
the first place, do not smell good
Benzyl Alcohol: Upper respiratory tract irritant. either when heated in a dryer or
heated by our bodies ... hence the
Ethanol: On the Environmental Protection Agency's (EPA) Hazardous need for even more hefty fra-
Waste list and can cause central nervous system disorders. grances.
A-Terpineol: Can cause respiratory problems, including fatal edema, In other words, remove all the
and central nervous system damage. added fragrance that endears people
to fabric softeners and -- like the
Ethyl Acetate: A narcotic on the EPA's Hazardous Waste list. clich wolf in sheep's clothing --
the real smells of the chemical-
Camphor: Causes central nervous system disorders. laced fabric softener and the syn-
thetic fabrics they were designed
Chloroform: Neurotoxic, anesthetic and carcinogenic. around may prompt people to shoot
their laundry machines and be done
Linalool: A narcotic that causes central nervous system disorders. with it.

Are "Soft" Clothes Worth It? wash cycle to soften fabric
Fabric softeners are made to Add a quarter cup of white vine-

stay in your clothing for long peri- gar to rinse to soften fabric and
ods of time. As such, chemicals are eliminate cling
slowly released either into the air
for you to inhale or onto your skin Check out your local health food
for you to absorb. Dryer sheets are store for a natural fabric softener
particularly noxious because they that uses a natural base like soy
are heated in the dryer and the instead of chemicals
chemicals are released through
dryer vents and out into the envi- It's likely that fabric softeners
and dryer sheets aren't the only
ronment. Health effects from being
toxic products in your home. Many
exposed to the chemicals in fabric
softeners include: household products that consumers
regard as safe are also full of toxic
Central nervous system disorders chemicals. Our past articles on
Headaches PEG Compounds in Cosmetics and
Nausea Phenols in Common Household
Vomiting Cleansers are two of the all-time
Dizziness most popular articles on
Blood pressure reduction SixWise.com and will make you
Irritation to skin, mucus mem- more aware of the pervasiveness of
branes and respiratory tract harmful chemicals that can be elim-
Pancreatic cancer inated from your home.
Soften Your Clothes Safely SixWise.com provides the

With These Tips: Webs most read and trusted per-
sonal, family and home safety and
Even if you don't feel the wellness e-newsletter at NO-COST,
effects of these chemicals today, with useful and practical informa-
they can affect you gradually over tion, statistics and guidance from
time, and children, whose systems the worlds leading experts on how
are still developing, are particularly to best protect yourself and loved
at risk. There's really no reason to ones from illness, injuries, crime,
expose yourself to these risky violence, disasters, scams and
chemicals when natural alternatives more. Go to www.SixWise.com
exist. Not only are they safer for now to subscribe to the free
you, your family and the environ- SixWise Be Safe, Live Longer,
ment, but they're much more eco- and Prosper newsletter.
nomical too:
Add a quarter cup of baking soda to

A Horse Scent
MAY 10, 2005
HIS YEAR'S
KENTUCKY DERBY WINNER, THE 50-1 long shot known as of the day, he's only three years
T Giacomo, made history again today by becoming the first winner of
the storied race to launch his own celebrity fragrance, set to hit stores
old."
this Friday. Elsewhere, Angelina Jolie

announced plans to break up the
Accompanied by his publicist and a phalanx of marketing advisors, pending marriage between singer
Giacomo unveiled the new fragrance, called Whoa by Giacomo, at New Elton John and longtime boyfriend
York City's legendary Bloomingdale's department store. David Furnish, telling reporters, "I
like a challenge."
Giacomo's decision to launch a celebrity fragrance caught many in
the perfume industry by surprise, since no horse-based scent has ever Andy Borowitz is the author of
had mass-market success at the nation's cosmetic counters. The Borowitz Report, and the win-
ner of the National Press Club's
But Jesse Diblanco, who heads up the consumer products division humor award. For more, go to
of Team Giacomo, dismisses such nay-saying, claiming that Giacomo is borowitzreport.com
an exception to the rule: "He's not a horse, he's a brand."
Reminiscent of the old televi-
Within the racing industry, some observers are voicing their concern sion show Mr. Ed that I enjoyed as
that Giacomo's sudden plunge into the world of celebrity culture may a kid so many years ago.
hurt his chances of winning the second leg of racing's Triple Crown, the
Preakness.
In addition to launching his fragrance, Giacomo has been seen par-

tying in recent days with such staples of the club circuit as Paris Hilton
and white-hot teen starlet Lindsay Lohan.
Late Monday night, for example, reporters spotted Giacomo stum-

bling back to his stall, trailing empty bottles of Cristal champagne in his
wake.
Racing insider Dobie Grossman worries that for Giacomo, the

Derby success was a case of too much, too soon: "Remember, at the end

Debating Chemicals
MAY 18, 2005
HEY'RE IN SOAP. AND HAIR SPRAY. BABY TOYS. HAND LOTION. Research has consistently
T DEODORANT. VINYL UPHOLSTERY. NAIL POLISH. AND PERFUME.
Chemicals known as phthalate esters are so prevalent, in fact, that most
demonstrated that laboratory ani-
mals experience developmental and
personal hygiene products and soft PVC plastics contain some and most reproductive problems when
Americans have traces of the compounds circulating inside their bodies, exposed to high levels of some
according to government reports. phthalates, levels that are usually
100 to 1,000 times greater than
But can they hurt us? those people come into contact
with.
European regulators believe so, and have banned some from chil-
dren's toys and cosmetics, labeling them ``toxic substances.'' Cali-fornia ``The question is, are the levels
legislators are pushing for the removal of some phthalates and for bet- humans are exposed to potentially
ter disclosure of product ingredients. hazardous?'' Hauser said.
Yet federal officials and product manufacturers insist the risk to The answer remains elusive.
humans remains low. Toiletries and cosmetics have been used safely for
decades, they say. The concerns have fueled a
flurry of legislation in California
Who is right? this year, with politicians weighing
in on the pros and cons of di-(2-eth-
In a sense, both sides are, scientists say. ylhexyl) phthalate and dibutyl
phthalate.
``There's not enough human data to say they are safe and don't
cause health effects. But, on the other hand, there's not a lot of human One bill, AB 319, would ban
data showing they do,'' said Russ Hauser, a Harvard associate professor phthalates from children's toys and
of occupational health, who is among the few researchers to have stud- feeding products. A second, SB
ied phthalates in humans. Hauser's team found that some phthalates may 484, would require cosmetic manu-
cause sperm abnormalities. facturers to report to the state
Department of Health Services all
Phthalates which keep nail polish from chipping and perfumes from los- ingredients that may cause cancer
ing their scent are without a doubt ubiquitous in American society. or harmful reproductive effects.
Research results

A third, AB 908, would have cream or deodorant contains them. does not test them.
prohibited the use of two phthalates
in products sold in this state, but it Widespread exposure But manufacturers are respon-
failed to garner enough votes sible for substantiating the safety of
before the Assembly health com- Scientists know that phthalates their products, and industry-sup-
mittee last month. can enter the human body through ported studies have deemed phtha-
our skin, nose or mouth. In fact, of lates safe at current concentrations.
Even the staunchest of environ- nearly 2,500 people studied by the Even in slightly higher amounts,
mentalists are not suggesting a bar Centers for Disease Control and the substances pose no risk to peo-
of soap or a bottle of nail polish can Prevention, more than three-fourths ple, they claim.
kill you. were found last year to have phtha-
lates in their urine, ``suggesting Products defended
``But I'm not just using one widespread exposure in the United
bottle over time,'' said Jeanne States.'' ``Cosmetics are safe, have been
Rizzo, executive director of the San safe, will be safe,'' said Gerald
Francisco-based Breast Cancer While the substances are McEwen, vice president of science
Fund, which is calling for the vol- thought to stay in our system for 12 for the Cosmetic, Toiletry and
untary removal of some phthalates hours or less, `ìf you use that prod- Fragrance Association. ``They have
from products. uct daily or twice daily,'' Hauser a long history of safe use.'' Lab rats
said, ``you're going to be continu- are not humans, and they don't
Indeed, the average American ously exposed.'' respond to toxins in the same way
woman puts 12 beauty products on that people do, McEwen said.
her skin each day, according to the Women of childbearing age
Environmental Working Group, a were found in one government Research by the Cosmetic
Washington advocacy organization. study to have elevated levels of Ingredient Review Expert Panel a
phthalates, raising concerns that group supported by the cosmetics
Not every soap, shampoo, sun- unborn babies considered especial- industry found that people detoxify
screen or skin lotion contains a ly vulnerable to toxins could be at phthalates more quickly than rats.
phthalate. But about two-thirds of risk for health defects. `Ìn a perfect And even the most appearance-
all personal hygiene products tested world, all those chemicals we're obsessed Americans aren't exposed
do, according to an analysis putting on our skin each day could to the same levels of the substances
released by the Food and Drug be safe. But we don't know that to as lab animals.
Administration this month. Hair be true,'' said Lauren Sucher, a
sprays, deodorants, nail products spokeswoman for the Envir- The government has made
and hair mousse were consistently onmental Working Group. The studying phthalates a top priority.
found to contain two or more. organization found that 89 percent But from the research it has carried
of the thousands of ingredients used out, ``we don't have any compelling
And because manufacturers are in personal care products have not evidence that phthalates as used in
not required to list on labels ingre- been evaluated for safety. cosmetics pose a safety risk,'' said
dients that give a product its fra- an FDA spokeswoman.
grance -- a primary purpose of Unlike drugs, personal care
some phthalates -- many consumers products are not subject to FDA Since 1999, the European
will not even know their hand approval, and the agency generally Union has prohibited the use of

phthalates in children's toys. Last

year, a new ban went into place in
European countries barring two
phthalates from cosmetics, too.
A grass-roots movement is
under way in the United States to
encourage cosmetic manufacturers
to replace potentially hazardous
ingredients with safer alternatives
within the next three years. So far,
more than 100 companies, includ-
ing Revlon and Este Lauder, have
agreed to do so. Most are small
makers of natural products.
`Ìf companies can make per-

sonal care products without ingre-
dients linked to cancer . . . or birth
defects, shouldn't they? To me,
that's just common sense,'' said
Sucher of the Environmental
Working Group.
`Ì'm willing to sacrifice a bit

of the creaminess in my hand
lotion,'' she said, `ìf it means it will
be free of chemicals linked to seri-
ous health problems.''

DJ Wins Lawsuit
MAY 24, 2005
Detroit - Weber, who now lives in

Cleveland, says she been unable to
get another job in radio since she
ONE TIMERADIO HOST WHO SAYS A CO-WORKER'S PERFUME MADE HER was fired in 2001. She says Infinity
A has won a $10.6 million federal jury verdict against her for-
SICK
mer employer.
Broadcasting "blacklisted her" a
claim the company denies. She now
does freelance voiceover work and
Erin Weber, a former DJ at Detroit country station WYCD-FM, said can be heard on thousands of Otis
she was fired in 2001 after complaining about her allergy to another elevators all over the country,
host's Tresor perfume. She said the owner of the station, Infinity announcing the number of each
Broadcasting discriminated against her for a disability caused by the floor.
allergy and retaliated after she filed a complaint with the
Equal Employment Opportunity Commission. Infinity spokeswoman Karen
Mateo said the company planned to
Infinity said it asked the other woman to stop wearing the perfume, appeal.
which she did, and also modified Weber's schedule so she wouldn't
come into contact with her. The company said Weber was fired for not
coming to work, the Detroit Free Press reported.
The jury on Monday awarded Weber $7 million in punitive dam-

ages, $2 million in mental anguish and emotional distress and $1.6 mil-
lion for past and future compensation. The six-woman jury in U.S.
District Court in Detroit spent eight days deliberating.
"I'm thankful that the jury took so much time to come to the right
conclusion," Weber told The Detroit News after the verdict.
Weber, 43, claimed exposure to Tresor described by maker Lancome

as a combination of rose, lilac and other scents caused her to lose her
voice and take lengthy absences from work. She also said she once "felt
an electric shock quell through my entire body" and required heavy
medication to combat the effects.

Sniffing at Problems
MAY 24, 2005
T'S JUST A SQUIRT OF SCENT TO YOU, BUT FOR OTHERS IT IS HELL.

Now had blackouts and has to use a spe-
I with new awareness of perfume allergy, Scots sufferers are hoping a
change in the law will help
cially-adapted phone from Sweden.
She carries an epipen an adrenalin
injector for anaphylactic shock in
For thousands of Scots, the modern world has become a threatening addition to taking antihistamines.
environment. On the street, in the workplace, even in their homes there
are hazards at every turn. The cause of their distress is unexpected, for Her GPs are now sympathetic,
these Scots are among the estimated 2% of the population who suffer but Alison says she has been dis-
from a fragrance allergy. As well as those who suffer a clinical allergy, missed as "neurotic" in the past.
there is also a growing number of people who believe their reactions "I'm now more or less housebound.
including headaches, confusion and stomach pain are caused by inhal- Whether it's perfume or electricity,
ing perfume or chemical additives. For them, perfumes, toiletries, I'm really stuck. I might get out for
household cleaners and air fresheners present them with daily problems. a brief walk, but that's about it."
Yet this type of reaction to fragrance is Yet this type of reaction to Marion Newman, a medical
fragrance is not recognised by the NHS as an allergy, or even as a sig- secretary in central Glasgow, has
nificant illness, though for people such as Alison Inglis, who has a range not been so severely affected, but
of conditions including food allergy, chemical sensitivity and electro- has to organise her life around scent
sensitivity, her illness is so significant she is no longer able to work. avoidance. "I don't have anything
Alison's problems began in 1970, but she is unable to pinpoint the trig- with perfume in my house," she
ger, which she believes might have been her move to a new home in says. "And that includes toiletries,
Glasgow, near an electricity sub-station. "In 1970, during my third preg- soap powder, washing-up liquid
nancy, my hands began twisting in and I started suffering leg pain and and air fresheners. These new plug-
balance problems," she says. "My GP said he thought it was multiple in fresheners are a real nuisance, as
sclerosis and a neurologist agreed. But 13 years later, when I was prop- I'm often not aware of them until
erly tested, they discovered it wasn't MS after all." it's too late. People just don't
realise, there is perfume every-
Alison's condition deteriorated and she was eventually diagnosed where. If I'm not careful, I become
with a number of food allergies, including, nuts, wheat and dairy. unwell and suffer stomach pains."
Exposure to electromagnetic radiation, in addition to food allergy and
chemical sensitivity problems, give Alison burning pains in her head, Despite the suffering of Alison
loss of balance, loss of voice, fatigue and breathing difficulties. She has and Marion, mainstream medical

opinion remains divided about the off by GPs. However, though some ings, with some restaurants offering
conditions they say they suffer. GPs are becoming sympathetic to fragrance-free areas. While there
Anyone with an obvious and severe patients who present with chemical have been many Scots affected by
reaction, such as breathing difficul- sensitivity problems, they are not contact dermatitis in a variety of
ties, might be treated in relation to sure how best to progress their industries, there has yet to be sig-
their symptoms; for instance, they treatment. We believe our callers nificant workplace concern.
might be diagnosed as suffering represent the tip of the iceberg and Though we may not share the com-
from asthma. we are campaigning to have the pensation culture of the US, this
problem recognised in the NHS." doesn't mean we won't start experi-
However, for those with less encing the problems. According to
obvious symptoms, such as dizzi- It is recognised in the US, Ian Tasker, the STUC assistant sec-
ness, headaches, joint or stomach where last month a former radio DJ retary responsible for health and
pains, there is sometimes a degree was awarded 5.79m in a US feder- safety, chemical or fragrance sensi-
of cynicism concerning their prob- al court lawsuit, because she says tivity may become part of the com-
lems. Few doctors would deny a she was fired after complaining plex debate on environmental
patient's suffering, but in this con- about exposure to a co-worker's health.
troversial area, the cause of such perfume. Erin Weber, who had
symptoms may be the subject of worked at a Detroit country music "Allergy can be a significant
debate. There is no evidence of station, said she had been forced to problem for many employees, such
cynicism at Allergy UK, which take lengthy absences from work. as healthcare workers who have
says calls to its chemical sensitivity She believed her problems with the developed a number of problems
helpline have increased since its perfume began after someone due to latex in gloves," he says. "Of
introduction three years ago. spilled nail polish remover in the course, for them, and for others
studio. such as hairdressers or cleaners,
The organisation argues that for there is a direct relationship
some people, exposure to chemi- This isn't a one-off. Against a between their condition and how
cals such as formaldehyde may backdrop of claims that "perfume is they carry out their job. The wear-
have triggered their fragrance sen-the new tobacco", more fragrance- ing of perfume is different. For a
sitivity, and that because of its use
sensitive employees are gaining start, it's about one individual's per-
in sheep dip, for instance, there are
protection under the Americans sonal choice. However, if a worker
a significant number of calls from with Disabilities Act. Throughout were suffering genuine ill-health
farmers. "Some sufferers might justthe US and Canada, campaigns for through being near a fellow work-
get a bit of a headache after a whiff
fragrance-free offices are taking er's scent, then you would expect
of perfume," says Lindsey effect. In Nova Scotia, an argument most employers to attempt to make
McManus, of Allergy UK. "But that "no scents makes good sense" adjustments to resolve the situa-
others can become quite ill. Many actively discourages people from tion."
of the people who contact us are wearing perfume in areas of local
very poorly. authority jurisdiction such as The basic complication is that,
libraries, schools, hospitals, courts without medical recognition, the
"Yet their condition is not and public transport. sufferer may have a difficult time
always regarded as a real illness, convincing health professionals or
with some doctors diagnosing In one part of California, there employers they have a legitimate
depression and some people struck is a perfume ban at public meet- complaint. "It is a complex area,"

agrees Tasker. "The subject of aller- starting point.

gy is becoming an increasing ele-
ment of my job, but it's an issue There was a time when poten-
which often crosses the border tial allergens in scent were simply
between workplace health and safe- listed as "perfume". Now a change
ty, and more general public health." in European law means there are 26
Dr P S Mukherji, of the British which have to be listed individually
Society Dr P S Mukherji, of the if the concentration is higher than
British Society for Allergy, 0.001% for leave-on products
Environmental and Nutritional (deodorants etc) and 0.01% for
Medicine, is seeing more patients at rinse-off products (shampoo etc).
his specialist clinic in Edinburgh.
Environmental doctors treat a range What to watch for:
of responses to environmental fac-
tors. "There are a range of symp- Amyl Cinnamal
toms," says Dr Mukherji, "many of Benzyl Alcohol
which are similar to ME. Most hos- Cinnamyl Alcohol
pitals and GPs are simply not up-to- Citral
date on this." Eugenol
Hydroxycitronellal
In March, European legislation Iso Eugenol
came into force requiring cosmetic Amyl Cinnamyl Alcohol
fragrance manufacturers to list on Benzyl Salicylate
the packaging any of a special "hit- Cinnamal
list" of 26 substances which might Coumarin
be in their products. These 26 are Geraniol
considered the essential allergy cul- Hydroxy-methylpentyl-cyclohex-
prits, and the new standards are enecarboxaldehyde
seen as an acceptable compromise Anisyl Alcohol
by manufacturers who regularly Benzyl Cinnamate
use up to 200 separate ingredients Farnesol
in a perfume. 2-(4-tert-Butylbenzyl) propionalde-
hyde
Chris Flower, director-general Linalool
of the industry's Cosmetic, Toiletry Benzyl Benzoate
and Perfumery Association, says Citronellol
research may lead to one or two Hexyl Cinnamyl Aldehyde
additions to the core 26 in years to d-Limonene
come. "But one concern we have is Methyl Heptin Carbonate
that it might be extended unreason- 3-Methyl-4-(2,6,6-trimethyl-2-
ably," he adds. For people who suf- cyclohexen-1-yl)-3-buten-2-one
fer fragrance and chemical sensitiv- Oak Moss extract
ity, this legislation might just be the Tree Moss extract

Strong Fragrance Can Send People Reeling
JUNE 18, 2005
im Bowmaker and her friend Kathy Pendergast stand in the lobby Not going away
K of the state Senate building waiting to take the elevator to their
offices. Sweet as they may be, too pun-
gent aromas can bowl you over like
It's just before 9 a.m. a stampede of paparazzi trying to
get to Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie.
Ping. And they're not going to dissipate
anytime soon.
The doors slide open and the ladies get in. Just as the doors close,
they catch a whiff of some serious perfume. Shoved to the back of the "A lot of people have been wearing
elevator, the women can't see "Rose" (not her real name, but her scent), this perfume or that cologne for
but they know she's there. It's yet another morning they'll suffer from years and years and years," says
secondhand scent saturation. Colleen Rickenbacher, a Dallas-
based expert on manners, etiquette
"Between the movement of the elevator and the foul air, I feel like I and culture. Several times a week
smoked a box of cigars and inhaled all them," Bowmaker tells clients which include FedEx, Four
Pendergast, after making sure she's out of Rose's earshot. The two did- Seasons Resorts and the Dallas
n't spot Rose in advance. If they had, they would have watched which Cowboys Cheerleaders ask her
elevator she took, and hopped in another or taken the stairs so as not to what to do about this olfactory
suffer even a few minutes engulfed in the rose-and-floral fog. overload. "It's part of their body,
and they have no clue."
"It's god-awful," Pendergast shoots back. "It's going to follow me all
day now." When dabbed or sprayed, fra-
grance enhances the human scent,
It's a scene that occurs too often for these women's liking, but it's says Rochelle Bloom, president of
also familiar for many. the Fragrance Foundation, but keep
it in perspective.
"It's nauseating to be near a person who bathes themselves in per-
fume," Bowmaker says. "Just as I wouldn't want to inhale the scent that Sometimes, though, people
emits from a garbage truck, secondhand smoke or a sewer system, I don't realize they've overdone it
don't feel I should be subjected to the overpowering aroma of what especially as they get older. They
another person may find pleasantly fragrant." lose their sense of smell and apply

more than necessary, says Bloom. the sneezing spell and cause the bad odor made worse.
Plus, when people wear the same nose to run."
fragrance all the time, they become
desensitized. When you don't smell OK, so smelling someone else's
it, you apply more. scent can't make you ill, but close
to it. Once a month or so
The more you spritz or spray Bowmaker and Pendergast come
on, though, the more people talk across the occasional male co-
about it: to friends, family, co- worker, who also goes a little crazy.
workers, even a doctor. Basically, That elicits knowing looks across
grown-ups gab with everyone but the room, followed by Pendergast's
the offender the one who needs to "Does he know he's turning people
hear it. off by wearing too much cologne?
You just need a little bit."
"It's really, really, really diffi-
cult to tell someone that they're When the women are out
scent is a little too strong," says together outside of work and they
Rickenbacher. She equates it to come across someone who went a
telling a person they have food little heavy on the perfume or
stuck in their teeth or their zipper's cologne, they're reminded of their
down. "Initially it could be tremen- overdone co-workers and often
dously embarrassing, but as time launch into yet another tirade.
goes on they'll appreciate it."
Car reeks
The allergy card
It happens outside of the work-
Many times people use the place, too, as Albany's Jeremy
allergy excuse, but it's not really a Clausi learned. When he picks up
true allergy in that you don't devel- his buddies, his car typically fills
op an allergic antibody to the per- with more than just people.
fume or cologne, says Scott Osur,
an allergist at the Certified Allergy "I hate it when my friends over-
and Asthma Consultants in Albany. load the cologne and smell up my
You can develop a condition called car," says Clausi, who never actual-
vasomotor rhinitis, though. ly has told them they went a little
crazy. "It's horrible. I have to have
"In a simplistic way, it's a sensi- the car aired out the following
tive nose," Osur explains. "There morning."
are a lot of people whose nerve
endings in their nose are sensitive He's also severely turned off
to irritants like cigarette smoke, smokers who "try to cover up the
strong odors, perfume, the aisle odor of Kool Menthol 100's with a
with the detergents. It can induce bucket of Jovan White Musk." One

208 DARK SIDE OF FRAGRANCES
Fragrance Decline
JUNE 25, 2005
MARK ANTONY IN A ROOM KNEE-DEEP WITH "People go for the color first,"
C LEOPATRA WELCOMED
ROSE PETALS.SHAKESPEARe wrote about the Eglantine rose with
apple-scented leaves. Victorian women sniffed their violets and
Carruth said by way of explanation.
"Then, 99.44 percent of the time,
nosegays to mask the odors of the street. it's to the nose."
Scent may be the most heady garden element of all, but many of our It may be surprising how many
best-loved flowers have lost their fragrance over the last half-century as fragrant flowers are still not pro-
hybridizers pursued traits like brighter colors, bigger flowers, compact moted, and how many old or over-
growth or long stems for cutting. Take a whiff of some hybrid red roses, looked varieties have yet to make a
for example, and you'll smell well, almost nothing: an olfactory blank. comeback, including native azal-
eas, bearded iris, clethra and the
"In cut-flower breeding today, the concentration is still on shipabil- old-fashioned mock orange.
ity and vase life, and these new flowers have all the romance of an arti-
choke," said Tom Carruth, research director of Weeks Roses, a whole- "Out here the mentality is, if it's
sale grower based in Upland, Calif. bigger, it's better," said Perry
Guillot, a landscape architect based
But as the gardening community grows more sophisticated, and in Southampton, N.Y. "Fragrance
therefore more appreciative of the sensual and the subtle, smell the final brings gardeners back to simple
frontier of the senses is returning to garden fashion. earthly delights. It's not just about
who can buy the biggest tree.
More nursery catalogs have begun to include lists of fragrant plants Fragrance is so much subtler. It can
on equal footing with categories like hardy vines and ground covers, be a freshly mowed lawn or a hon-
and breeders are starting to take notice. eysuckle that grew in from a neigh-
bor's fence."
In the fall, Weeks Roses will introduce a rose named after Julia
Child (it has a licorice smell) and a purple and lavender rose called Wild By most accounts, humans can
Blue Yonder, which has a strong spicy fragrance. Child, who died in detect only five flavors: sweet,
August, picked her namesake from a sampling of new hybrids. sour, bitter, salty and a fifth flavor,
derived from the amino acid gluta-
In addition, the company says old-fashioned varieties that never lost mate and known to the Japanese as
their scent, like Sombreuil, a white climber from the late 19th century, umami. But we can discern some
are enjoying a resurgence. 10,000 distinct smells. Without

smell, flavors would be barely parents may produce a petal-perfect Sniffing your way through the
detectable. Remember holding your but smell-less offspring." Botanic Garden
nose when you took medicine as a
child? Anticipating the demand for The Fort Worth Botanic Garden
fragrance, David Austin, an makes scents on a hot summer day.
Scents may be plentiful, but English rose breeder, years ago Its natural aromatherapy cures are
they are hard to analyze, and even began to cross the hybrid tea roses, waiting and free to anyone willing
harder to describe. That may desirable for their colors and long to slow down and breathe deeply.
account for why smell is often an periods of bloom, with antique
afterthought in plant descriptions shrub roses, which are known for Should you need a guide
and garden plans. their fragrance. The company beyond your nose, here are some
established an office in Tyler six favorite fragrant flowers chosen for
Scent is invisible, but its place- years ago. As a result, the roses are us by botanic garden horticulturist
ment is crucial. Gardeners probably available throughout the United Kathleen Cook.
wouldn't make a planting themed States, and they are enormously
on fragrance, for example, as they popular. Stop by the front gate and take
would for spring color or dwarf in the heady scent of the chocolate
evergreens. They may prefer to Of course, flower fragrance, daisies (Berlandiera lyrata), the
sprinkle the smells like punctua- like color, did not evolve for our light yellow blooms with dark cen-
tion. The lily is an exclamation delight alone; scents are sex ploys ters.
point; the scent of Carolina sweet- to attract pollinators in search of
shrub floats on the evening air like nectar. If you smell a petunia dur- Take a deep whiff of the flow-
a question mark: "What's that ing the day, it may have a bit of ers of the butterfly bushes
smell?" scent, but at night it releases a rich, (Buddleia) in front of the Gardens
heady, lily-and-clove aroma. Restaurant and in the Perennial
Unfortunately, it's not always Garden. The soft scent is reminis-
easy to find those punctuation Thousands of flowers are polli- cent of vanilla.
marks. After World War II, scent nated by nocturnal insects and
was bred out of roses, for example, therefore do not release their per- Near the restaurant is the
as hybridizers worked toward new fumes until their animal allies are Fragrance Garden, in the center of
colors, long stems and durability. active. Evening-scented blossoms which is the sambac jasmine
Since thick, leathery petals do not are often white, luminous in the (Jasminum sambac) with its heady
readily disintegrate, their molecules fading light of dusk just as the sweet scent from its small, white,
do not waft into the air. Instead, moths begin their rounds. Many of star-shaped flowers. This is the
they remain imbedded and unde- these flowers have tubular or trum- flower traditionally used to make
tectable until the blossom begins to pet shapes that evolved along with jasmine tea. "It's worth kneeling
rot. moths' long proboscises. down for," Cook says.
In her book A Natural History But for human enjoyment, in a While in the Fragrance Garden,
of Senses, (Random House, 1990), world of magazine scent strips and lightly rub the leaves of the pineap-
Diane Ackerman surmises that room deodorizers, the garden ple sage (Salvia elegans) for a
scent "seems to be a recessive trait remains a sanctuary of natural fra- heavenly tropical scent. The fennel
in roses, and two deeply fragrant grance. releases an aroma of licorice.

Pause by the softly scented,

sweet garden phlox (Phlox panicu-
lata) in the Fuller Garden and in the
Trial Garden.
Scattered around are yellow,

orange and red day lilies
(Hemerocallis) with a soft, fresh
scent.
The gardens, off University

Drive north of Interstate 30, are
open free of charge from 8 a.m. to
dusk. But during Concerts in the
Garden, this weekend and July 1-4,
visitors are asked to finish their vis-
its by 5 p.m. (817) 871-7686;
www.fwbg.org.

Stinking Healthcare
JUNE 25, 2005
HILE TOO MUCH FRAGRANCE HAS ALWAYS SPELT TROUBLE, especial- to tar phthalates as deadly since
W ly in a downwind, a coalition of activists and environmentalists
has been warning that perfume and makeup are putting women and
1998, even though almost every
regulatory body that has looked at
children in grave risk of cancer and reproductive harm. The reason is the research has found them to be
that they contain phthalates (the ph is silent), a family of colorless oil- without risk.
like substances that prolong the scent of perfume, make nail polish flex-
ible, and prevent childrens toys from cracking under the pressure of Scare Tactics
being chewed.
In 2000, for example, the
Should you be worried about phthalates in cosmetics and toys? Environmental Working Group
(EWG) warned that women of
The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics kicked off in Marin County, childbearing age should stop wear-
California on Valentines day with Operation Beauty Drop, an educa- ing nail polish because they had
tional project designed to make school kids aware that cosmetics con- higher levels of phthalates in their
taining phthalates and other supposedly deadly chemicals should be bodies than the rest of the popula-
swiftly dumped. As Judi Shils, director of the Marin Cancer Project told tion and phthalates had been linked
the Bay City News Wire: If we make the public aware that the person- to birth defects in animals. In other
al care and cosmetic products they are being sold may be promoting words, because high levels of
cancer, and educate them about healthier choices, the hope is that they phthalates damaged animals, the
will stop buying products that are probably contributing to spiraling EWG invited people to believe that
rates of cancer throughout our communities. high levels of phthalates in
humans must also be dangerous.
Actually, cancer rates are declining; it just looks as if they are spi-
raling because the population of the United States is aging, and cancer But its nothing more than a
is much more common among those over 50 than those under. When scare tactic to say that there are
you adjust for age, cancer rates have been dropping since 1990. (As for high levels without mentioning
cancer rates in Marin County, theyre comparable to the rest of the that there are no adverse health
country, according to the National Cancer Institute, although some types consequences associated with these
of cancer are below national levels and falling.) levels (the highest of all the esti-
mated exposures was still 400 times
But paying close attention to the actual scientific data has never below the Environmental
been a strong suit of health scare activists, who have been on a mission Protection Agencys safety levels,

which are among the most stringent prove that there was a correlation everything becomes toxic if the
regulatory standards in the world. between phthalates (as present in dose is too high. Instead of looking
the mothers urine before birth) and at the amount of a substance that
Indeed, the high exposure the length or volume of the penis or can be consumed without adverse
levels found by the Centers for the size of the scrotum. (See STATS effect the No Observable Adverse
Disease Control were congruent Media Claims Phthalates (Might) Effect Level (NOAEL) health
with those found by the World Cause Genital Defects for a longer activists pin their fears on cases
Health Organization and the Center critique.) where animals became ill at very
for Evaluation of Risks to Human high doses. They assume that we,
Reproduction, which is part of the Instead, they measured some- as humans, metabolize very low
National Toxicology Program, and thing called the anogenital index doses of a chemical in the same
neither of these institutions found the distance between the base of the way the animals that became sick
any cause for alarm. And while the penis and the anus divided by the metabolized very high doses. But if
U.S. National Toxicology Program childs weight. They found a corre- this were true, the trace amounts of
report on the safety of DBP did find lation between a narrow gap and a organic arsenic in root vegetables
that high doses of DBP led to high level of four out of eight dif- would be lethal.
developmental damage in rats, the ferent phthalates, and then noted
authors had minimal concern that rats fed high doses of phtha- Not all toxic risks are linear,
about effects to human develop- lates (much higher than those which means that that as the degree
ment and development of the repro- absorbed by humans) have both of exposure to a given chemical
ductive system from current esti- low anogenital indices and genital decreases the risk of cancer or other
mated exposure. defects. damage decreases but it does not
wholly disappear. Unfortunately
Unfortunately, that sort of bal- So does that mean that much health activists seem to believe that
ance tends to be lost when health lower doses will produce similar if the risk from all carcinogens is lin-
scare stories start making the news. lesser effects in male fetuses? The ear. Most toxicologists, however,
study couldnt say. Nevertheless, understand that such risks can be
Phthalates and Genital the media made it seem as if sexual linear or non-linear. A non-linear
Defects deformity lies in wait for future risk means that there is a threshold
generations of boys if we dont below which trace amounts of the
The latest push to have phtha- curb phthalate use now, which is chemical will have no adverse
lates banned has been driven by something the Massachusetts legis- effect (damaged cells will be able
research, which claims, if you lature is currently considering. to repair themselves). This is why it
believe the headline in USA Toda,y is important to look at the NOAEL
that phthalates may cause defects Follow the Numbers for any chemical before panicking.
in baby boys.
One of the problems with For example, the highest con-
As astonishing as it may sound, activist-driven health scares is that centration of the phthalate DEP
the study didnt show what virtual- they look at toxicology from only found in perfume was 28,000 mil-
ly all of the media reports said it one perspective. Laboratory tests ligrams per liter, according to the
did. None of the baby boys in the involve giving animals huge daily Environmental Working Group.
study had defective or malformed doses of a chemical to determine its The NOAEL for DEP works out at
genitals. Nor did the researchers toxicity. But the problem is that 750 milligrams per kilo of body-

weight per day, so an adult weigh- Given that even the most nox- and recommended a total ban
ing 70 kilos (154-pounds) could ious lounge lizard couldnt use any- (which will be voted on by the full
safely, if not happily, ingest 52,500 thing close to a half gallon of European Parliament on July 7).
mg of DEP daily. cologne a day, why are activists
advocating a radical solution to a Declaring DBP, DINP or any
Divide this number by the con- non-existent problem? cosmetic or toy to be dangerous
centration of DEP in the perfume without backing it up with realistic
and you could drum roll douse Blame Europe numbers is like shouting fire in a
yourself with a half a gallon every crowded theater because someone
day without any ill effect (at least Health activists protest that has a lighter in their pocket. There
from the DEP you might suffocate because the European Union has is, at present, no reason to believe
yourself and those around you from banned DBP, it must be dangerous. that normal human exposure is in
the stench). And whats more, this This sounds compelling, but it dis- any way risky just as theres simply
is a conservative estimate, as it plays a rather simplistic under- no reason to believe that a person
would mean absorbing every single standing of what Europe has actual- with a cigarette lighter is an arson-
phthalate molecule in the perfume. ly done. The ban on DBP is a result ist. And this is why regulatory bod-
of legislation dubbed REACH ies outside the E.U. have examined
A similar calculation can be (Registration, Evaluation and the data on phthalates and found
performed with DBP, which is pres- Authorization of Chemicals), them to be safe as used in cosmet-
ent in nail polish. According to which requires chemicals to be ics and toys.
research by the Cosmetic banned if they cannot be proven
Ingredient Review Expert Panel, an safe. This may, on the face of it, Heres the moral of this story:
independent, non-profit organiza- seem eminently sensible; but We have everything to fear if we
tion charged with monitoring the explaining what Europes embrace fear numbers. And if we fear every-
safety of cosmetics, the highest of the precautionary principle thing, were not going to take the
concentration of DBP found in a meant in practice, philosopher genuine risks to our health serious-
bottle of nail polish was 15 percent, Roger Scruton revealed it's essen- ly. Risks like smoking. In April, the
which amounts to approximate- tially paranoid take on the world: American Cancer Society warned
ly1950 milligrams of DBP per bot- If you think there is a risk, then that over the course of the next
tle. there is a risk; and if there is a risk, year, some 168, 140 Americans
then forbid it. would die from cancer brought on
The most conservative NOAEL from smoking. This statistic is par-
for DBP (arrived at by implanting In principle, this means that ticularly ominous for women for
chemicals directly into the stom- anything can be banned on the basis even though cancer rates are gener-
achs of rats) is 50 milligrams per of the flimsiest of evidence; and in ally declining, lung and bronchial
kilo of bodyweight per day. Thus, practice, legislators are doing just cancer rates have sharply increased
our 154-pound human lab rat could that. Even though a risk assessment over the past 30 years.
consume 3,500 mg of DBP, or by the European Chemicals Bureau
every phthalate molecule from 1.8 in 2003 found that there was no risk Activists believe that when it
bottles of nail polish, a day without to children from the use of the comes to phthalates in cosmetics
ill effect. Test the rats by feeding phthalate DINP in toys, a commit- and toys, the lack of regulation is
them DBP and the safety limit for tee higher up on Europes regulato- shocking. But the real scandal
humans rises to 11.8 bottles a day. ry food chain over-ruled the report here is that the public is being dis-

tracted by a health scare that has

that has yet to show any scary data.
Please Note
Given the outrage that accom-

panies any article that suggests
industry is innocent until proven
guilty when it comes to chemicals,
it should be noted that STATS has
not received any money or come
under any pressure from industry to
write any material pertaining to
phthalates. STATS is a non-profit
research center affiliated with
George Mason University, which
examines statistical and scientific
misinformation in the media.

Study Says Bad Smells Can Cause Accidents
JULY 8, 2005
HE WRONG SMELL IN A CAR CAN CAUSE SPEEDING, dozing, road rage The smell of fast food, fresh
T and potentially even serious accidents, according to a new study. bread or pastry can cause driver
irritability, a preponderance to
Having the right smell can help a driver to recognise dangers earli- speed and an increased chance of
er, stay focused on the road ahead, forgive other peoples' driving errors involvement in road rage because
and even find a bit of romance. they can all make drivers feel hun-
gry and in a hurry to satiate their
It's astounding how much the smell in a car can affect a driver's appetites. The smell of fresh cut
mood and actions, said Sue Nicholson, of the RAC Foundation, which grass, pine woods or roadside flow-
reviewed a US study into odours and driving. ers, while relaxing some drivers,
can put others into a nostalgic
Smell is a very powerful sense and could result in a lack of con- frame of mind where they day-
centration or over-reaction to minor irritations on the road - which can dream of swooping down country
turn into potentially life threatening incidents. lanes and fail to appreciate the
speed at which they are traveling.
The research identified peppermint and cinnamon odours as being
the best cure-all, but the range of smells that can help or hinder driving A combination of leather seats
are enormous. More than any other sense, the sense of smell circum- and oil can make some older driv-
navigates the logical part of the brain and acts on the limbic and emo- ers remember the thrill and sense of
tional systems. freedom that came with their first
cars. They could potentially then
This is why the smell of perfume can turn men into gibbering idiots unconsciously adopt the risk-taking
and the smell of baking bread can destroy the best intentions of a dieter. behaviour of much younger drivers.
Smells beneficial to driving
When we bring cars into the equation, the ability of various smells include:
to over or under-stimulate us as drivers can have catastrophic results.
Peppermint and cinnamon -
Dangerous smells to be aware of include chamomile, jasmine and improves concentration levels as
lavender, which are all used to treat insomnia and can cause drivers to well as making drivers less irrita-
become over-relaxed behind the wheel. They are also present in many ble.
flowery air fresheners.
Lemon and coffee - these smells are

good for clear thinking and high

concentration levels.
New car smell (a combination of

cleaning products and organic sol-
vents) tends to make people con-
centrate better and also take more
care with their driving.
Sea ozone a blast of salty sea air

can encourage deep breathing
which relaxes the muscles, relieves
stress and calms the mind.
Citroen Australia stepped into

the odour business by introducing
the new C4 small car with a per-
fume dispenser.
C4 owners can select from a

range of nine fragrances including
lemon, cinnamon and, oops, jas-
mine and lavender. Let's hope they
stick with the lemon and cinnamon.

Synthetics Harm Marine Life
JULY 11, 2005
YNTHETIC FRAGRANCES COMMONLY ADDED TO PERFUMES, SOAPS, According to Luckenbach, this

S SHAMPOOS, and dozens of other personal health care products are
proving harmful to the marine environment and potentially to humans
is a novel mechanism by which a
wide range of presumably nontoxic
as well, according to marine scientists. chemicals could have a negative
impact on plants and animals.
Also known as synthetic musks, the chemical compounds reported-
ly compromise a cellular defense mechanism that normally prevents Together with Stanford biology
toxins from entering cells. The mechanism is controlled by efflux trans- professor David Epel, Luckenbach
porter proteins embedded in cell membranes. demonstrated the effect of these
synthetic fragrances in experiments
Household Pollutants Disrupting Fish Genes on California mussels.
Hermaphrodite Frogs Caused By Popular Weed Killer? Mussel cells share properties
with some human cells, such as the
Toxins Accumulate in Arctic Peoples, Animals, Study Says. cells found in a barrier that prevents
toxins from entering the brain,
Low Sperm Counts Blamed on Pesticides in U.S. Water. Luckenbach said.
"Efflux transporters are like bilge pumps in a ship. Another analog "We can't conclude that these
is bouncersn these guys at the nightclub," said Till Luckenbach, a post- [compounds] are having the same
doctoral fellow at Stanford University's Hopkins Marine Laboratory in effect on humans, but we think it's
Pacific Grove, California. something we should test," he said.
Luckenbach and Epel published
The transporters recognize and pump out many kinds of toxins from their findings this January
cells, but if too many chemicals are around, the capacity of the trans- in Environmental Health
porters can be overwhelmed. Perspectives, a journal of the U.S.
National Institutes of Health.
This is a potential danger in the presence of foreign compounds such
as synthetic fragrances, Luckenbach said. The fragrances themselves Mussel Experiments
are nontoxic, but by overwhelming the cellular bouncers, the fragrances
allow unwanted toxins to slip by and contaminate the cell. According to Luckenbach,
wastewater treatment plants fail to
break down synthetic musks, sliced gills off living mussels and term effects? Could these be harm-
allowing the compounds to spill exposed them to six synthetic musk ing defense systems in aquatic
into rivers and oceans via sewage compounds in water solutions. organisms? And could they be hav-
discharge. Musk concentrations were 300 ing similar effects in humans?"
parts per billion or less. The gills Epel asked in a media statement.
The compounds persist in the continued to function normally for
environment and have been shown a week after being sliced off, Consumer Beware?
to accumulate in the tissues of fish Luckenbach said. After two hours
and other invertebrates. of exposure to the musk com- Before this project started,
pounds, the gills were removed, Luckenbach said, he knew nothing
Despite their pervasiveness, the washed, and placed in musk-free about synthetic musks. Now that
toxicity and environmental risk of water with a red fluorescent dye. he's aware of the potential health
most synthetic fragrances are con- hazard, he looks at the ingredients
sidered negligible, according to the Under normal conditions, efflux in health care products and is sur-
researchers. transporters (the bilge pumps or prised by the lack of information he
"bouncers") in the gill tissue recog- finds. "In lot of cases you don't
Household Pollutants Disrupting nize the dye as a foreign compound know what's in the product. They
Fish Genes and remove it. If the transporters usually say 'perfume' or 'fragrance'
are impaired, however, the dye can but do not specify the compounds,"
Hermaphrodite Frogs Caused By accumulate in the cell. he said. Some products are labeled
Popular Weed Killer? as synthetic free or made with non-
This is what the researchers synthetic ingredients like lime, he
Toxins Accumulate in Arctic observed: Gills exposed to synthet- added.
Peoples, Animals, Study Says ic musks accumulated dye at much
higher concentrations than gills not In a statement prepared in
Low Sperm Counts Blamed on exposed to musks. response to the study, the Fragrance
Pesticides in U.S. Water Materials Association of the United
"We think these transporters are States, a Washington, D.C.-based
The compound musk xylene is just overwhelmed. Their capacity is organization, said synthetic musks
an exception. Its use was discontin- overstretched and they can't work are safe for consumers.
ued in Japan and Germany and properly," Luckenbach said. The
banned in the U.S. from lipsticks cells, the researchers added, were "They are among the most thor-
and other ingestible products. In impaired for up to 48 hours after oughly researched and tested fra-
addition to a direct toxic effect, exposure to the compounds. The grance ingredients. Their safety for
Luckenbach and Epel wanted to finding is troubling, the researchers human health has been extensively
know whether synthetic musks note, because there are many other tested and affirmed by numerous
pose an indirect health risk by com- synthetic chemicals in the environ- regulatory agencies and academic
promising an animal's "xenobiotic ment that may work in a similar scientists around the world," the
defense system" the process by way. statement reads.
which efflux proteins remove tox-
ins from cells. "It's a warning sign. It's a smok- The association did not return a
ing gun. Are there other chemicals phone call seeking further com-
To do this, the researchers out there that have similar long- ment.
Sex & Smells
JULY 26, 2005
So it seems no matter where we

T HE CONTROVERSY IS WHETHER THE USE OF SEXUAL ADVERTISING IS
OFFENSIVE TO THE GENERAL PUBLIC.The purpose of advertising is to
convince consumers that products are of use to them in one way or
look these days, sex is being used
to catch our attention and encour-
another, but the increasing amount of sexually graphic adverts has age us to buy certain products
become a worry to some people. and/or services, but it is up to us,the
viewers, consumers and general
Is sexual advertising necessary? public to decide whether we find it
perfectly acceptable or degrading
The use of sex in the media is seen by some as totally unnecessary and wrong.
and in poor taste. However there are those who feel that using sex is
acceptable or even essential.
Magazines contain many types of print advertising used to sell

products in specified target markets. The print advertising in magazines
face a controversial issue of whether sexual advertising is offensive to
the general public. Sexual images have been used to sell products for
decades.
The question is, is it wrong to use sex as a selling tool?
Sexual images can be used to appeal to the consumer of almost any

product. Some of the sexual advertisments in magazines are subtle,
while others are blatantly obvious.
It is clear that sex is a strong appeal to sell certain products such as

perfume or cosmetics.
Television commercials are another media vehicle that has caused

controversy in the selling or promoting of products or services. Many
commercials aired on television today incorporate sex appeal in the
message in some way.
Sex Bias
AUGUST 12, 2005
San Francisco - the former Supreme Court justice

who argued Yanowitz's case.
CALIFORNIA SUPREME COURT RULED THURSDAY THAT THE STATE'S L'Oral did not respond to
T HE
LAW AGAINST SEX DISCRIMINATION applies to a cosmetics executive
who refused to fire a sales associate whom the executive's boss had
requests for comment. I wonder
why?
deemed unattractive.
The decision was the second in
The 4-2 decision marked a significant expansion of legal protection less than a month in which the
for employees who oppose workplace discrimination, extending the state's highest court expanded
whistle- blower law to workers whose objections may be subtle and to whistle-blower protections. It gave
employers whose retaliation also may be undramatic. the green light in July to a suit
against the state Department of
The L'Oral USA Inc. executive who sued in the case contended she Corrections by two employees who
was subjected to unlawful retaliation for balking at a discriminatory had complained about a warden's
order to fire a productive worker and hire somebody "hot." sexual relations with other employ-
ees. Like Yanowitz, the plaintiffs
Whether the ruling will require a makeover of hiring practices at the ultimately left their jobs under
prominent cosmetics and fragrance company remains to be seen. strained circumstances.
A trial will decide if L'Oral did anything wrong. Yanowitz went to work for
L'Oral in 1981 and was promoted
But the Supreme Court ruling, reinstating the case of Elysa to regional sales manager five years
Yanowitz, the company's former Northern California and Pacific later, earning high marks on per-
Northwest regional sales manager, made it easier for employees to get a formance reviews, big bonuses and
trial for asserted violations of the state's Fair Employment and Housing increased responsibilities.
Act.
Trouble started in the fall of
The decision "sends a message that workers are allies with the court 1997, after division general manag-
in the battle against discrimination in the workplace and that if they er Jack Wiswall allegedly told
stand up against discrimination, the law will protect them against retal- Yanowitz to fire a dark-skinned
iation, no matter what form that retaliation takes," said Joseph Grodin, sales associate whom he didn't find
attractive. The suit says Wiswall tion. He said employers want to

told Yanowitz to "get me somebody know the rules for managing a
hot," expressing a preference for "It is not difficult to envision work force, but "the court didn't
fair-skinned blondes. circumstances in which a subordi- give us the bright line I'd hoped."
nate employee may wish to avoid
Yanowitz claims she asked for directly confronting a superviser But attorney Charlotte
an adequate justification to fire the with a charge of discrimination and Friedman, who filed a brief on
associate. the employee engages in subtler or behalf of a coalition of civil rights
more indirect means in order to organizations, said the court
She ultimately refused to carry avoid furthering or engaging in dis- showed "a very profound under-
out Wiswall's order. criminatory conduct," Chief Justice standing of workplace dynamics,"
Ronald George wrote. particularly in defining retaliation.
Yanowitz alleges a series of
retaliatory acts against her began George also said Yanowitz The justices recognized,
solicitation of negative information could sue for retaliation despite the Friedman said, "that you can be
from her subordinates, complaints fact that she wasn't fired or demot- nibbled to death by ducks" that a
about her performance, travel ed - that illegal employer retaliation series of acts of subtle humiliation
restrictions, veiled threats of dis- can take the form of "subtle, yet can interfere with job performance
missal. damaging, injuries" rather than or future advancement or create a
"one swift blow." hostile work environment.
She went on stress-related dis-
ability leave in July of that year and The opinion drew the line at
never returned. "actions that threaten to derail an
employee's career."
Two big issues were decided
Thursday whether Yanowitz could Justice Ming Chin, in a dissent-
qualify as a whistle-blower and ing opinion signed by Justice
whether L'Oral's asserted actions Marvin Baxter, said Yanowitz
amounted to retaliation. The never blew a whistle and, since
Supreme Court said yes to both L'Oral didn't know she was com-
questions. plaining of discrimination, the
company can't have retaliated for
In its defense, L'Oral had the exercise of a legal right, the dis-
argued that Yanowitz never said she sent said.
was disobeying Wiswall's order
because she considered it discrimi- Attorney George Howard, who
natory. submitted a brief in the case on
behalf of the statewide Employers
The Supreme Court said she Group, predicted the decision will
didn't have to that her request for create more litigation because it
adequate justification should have will cause uncertainty "in the real
put Wiswall on notice that she was world" over which acts are permis-
blowing a whistle on discrimina- sible.
Graduating
AUGUST 24, 2005
50% OF they entered employment after

A RTICLE ARGUING AGAINST GOVERNMENT PLANS TO SEND
SCHOOLleavers to university due to lack of graduate jobs. Instead
vocational and professional qualifications should be promoted.
school. They would avoid stifling
debt and could study towards pro-
fessional qualifications that were
During the last couple of weeks another batch of twenty somethings job related. Many graduates study
will have attended award ceremonies across the country in honour of for such qualifications and it is
their graduations. In September, more youngsters will enter the univer- these which help them to gain
sity system. Unfortunately, the future for these wide eyed youngsters employment as opposed to their
may not be as bright as they envisage. degree.
With record numbers of students now attending university, there are The governments policy of
just not enough graduate jobs to go around. Data collected by the Higher encouraging all young people to
Education Statistics Agency shows that sixty percent of graduates can attend university is annually
expect to have landed a graduate job within six months of graduating. increasing the number of graduates
Just what constitutes a graduate job is questionable and the amount of surplus to the requirements of the
time that it takes to gain these positions is unknown and probably US economy. Perhaps, the govern-
amounts to months as opposed to weeks. ment is trying to delay young peo-
ple entering the job market in an
According to the Association of Gra-duate Recruiters the average attempt to hide unemployment.
graduate salary is 22,000. This may be obtained by the lucky few, but Unfortunately, it is the graduates
what about the majority? Well, they become statistics, forced to claim that are paying the price and having
unemployment benefit or seek temporary employment. Others enter their dreams of a highly paid job
dead-end jobs, shattering the unrealistic illusions that the government shattered. So, as you see the future
and universities paint. for many of the graduates of 2005
may be less than bright!
Its no wonder then, that many graduates are now questioning the
value of a degree. It is possible to study virtually any subject from per-
fumery to medicine, but how many degrees are vocational and actually
lead to a job? The answer is very few and a degree should definitely not
be looked upon as a passport to a good job.
In fact, many students would be wealthier and just as successful if

Perfume Trade Cutting the Boise De Rose
AUGUST 30, 2005
CHANEL NO. 5 PERFUME WENT ON THE MARKET IN 1921, pau ern Amazon had also been eradicat-
U NTIL
rosa, or Brazilian rosewood, was just another tree that grew in
abundance in the Amazon.
ed. Alarmed, the environmental
protection agency responded by
putting rosewood on its list of
But the enduring popularity of that fragrance, which includes rose- endangered species.
wood oil as a key ingredient, began a process that has led both to a black
market in the oil and the tree itself being designated as an endangered That measure was meant to stop
species. the depredation. But with the
agency unable to enforce its prohi-
Worldwide, the demand for perfumes, soaps, balms and scented can- bition, much of the rosewood trade
dles has skyrocketed in recent years, boosted by rising incomes among became clandestine, pushing prices
women and new-age trends such as aromatherapy. Because of rose- up and forcing companies like
wood's cachet, demand for the oil far outstrips the legal supply, and Phebo, Brazil's oldest soap manu-
some fragrance manufacturers will pay just about anything to get their facturer, to look for lower-cost syn-
hands on some. thetic substitutes that are imported
from places like China.
"That bouquet is unmatchable and it makes people act strangely,"
said Paulo Tarso de Sampaio, co-author of the book "Bio-Diversity in "Rosewood soap continues to
the Amazon" and a scientist at the National Institute for Amazon account for half our sales, but we
Research in Manaus. had to stop using the real thing
around 1990," said Roberto Lima,
"Intense exploitation means that all the areas where there was easy manager of the company's plant in
access to rosewood have just about been leveled, but still the demand Belm, at the mouth of the
continues to grow." Amazon. "We sell nearly four times
as much soap as we did back then,
The European companies, mainly French, that dominate the fra- but the scarcity of the natural
grance industry originally obtained their stocks of rosewood oil from extract has pushed the price to a
French Guiana, 800 kilometers, or 500 miles, northeast of here. But level that only the big companies
when the exploitation there grew so intense that the tree was virtually overseas can afford."
wiped out, they turned next to the Brazilian Amazon.
What happens after drums
By the late 1980s, though, the rosewood population in Brazil's east- filled with the fragrant oil leave
mills in the Amazon and are export- bers, most of them peasant women. produce the same amount of oil and
ed, however, is not always clear. They have planted and now are since that requires extra labor, it is
Environmental groups say that tending more than 3,000 rosewood more convenient and profitable for
much of the oil is routed through a saplings in the heart of the jungle scofflaw lumberjacks and mill
handful of brokers, many based in and distill rosewood oil and manu- operators to stick to the old system.
the New York area, but those inter- facture about 1,000 bars of soap a
mediaries are reluctant to talk about month at a small plant here. Higher labor and operating
how and where they obtain the costs also mean a higher price for
product and how they manage to "My husband used to work at the finished product. Middlemen
comply with the Brazilian govern- one of the mills, and there they take have balked at paying that premium
ment's strict regulations. out the tree and leave nothing in its so long as illegal supplies are still
place," said Ante de Souza Canto, available, but some users say they
According to academic and a leader of the group. "Not us. I'm would gladly buy the environmen-
industry studies, legal rosewood oil 47 years old and have five daugh- tally friendly rosewood oil if only
production in Brazil today is barely ters, so I'm thinking of the future." it were made available to them.
one tenth of the peak annual output
of 300 tons, in the late 1960s. The In an effort to further plumb the
number of registered mills, which riches of the rain forest, the group
turn rosewood tree trunks into oil has also begun harvesting other
through an inefficient process at a exotic fragrances from trees for
ratio of 100 to one, has also fallen soaps and salves, always taking
drastically, from more than 50 in care to replace what they take.
the 1940s to less than 8. "Everything that smells good, we're
planting," Marcio Joao Neves da
About six years ago, though, a Batista, who operates the distillery
community group in Silves, a small that boils leaves and branches into
island town in the middle of the oil, said.
Amazon River, began an effort to
try to revive the industry, this time But Avive's task has not proven
on a sustainable basis. Rather than easy. Jungle lots that the govern-
simply cut down trees and haul ment has placed under the group's
away their trunks, the group, called care have been razed, with invaders
Avive, decided to prune branches simply cutting down and hauling
and leaves every five years or so, away trunks from mature trees
thereby extending the usefulness of standing as tall as 30 meters, or 100
individual rosewood trees for feet, that the cooperative had hoped
decades. to use in production for years.
Today the project, which began According to Sampaio, the con-

with money from the World centration of oil in rosewood leaves
Wildlife Fund and has also been can be twice as much as that in the
supported by the British and trunk. But larger volumes of
German governments, has 42 mem- branches and leaves are needed to
Fragrance & Multiple Chemical Sensitivity
SEPTEMBER 4, 2005
CHEMICAL SENSITIVITIES (MCS) AFFECTS MILLIONS OF less. It can happen to anyone. My

M ULTIPLE
AMERICANS, as well as millions of people in other countries where
artificial perfumes and pesticides are used. Perfumes are the most ubiq-
own personal experience began
with becoming sensitive to my per-
uitous of hazardous waste chemicals, since "formulations" changed in fume. There is no warning label on
the early 80s. Since that time, asthma rates have skyrocketed 80%, and these deleterious products. After
MCS has become a debilitating epidemic. Man-made scents contain years of repeated exposures to other
hundreds of untested unregulated petrochemicals, solvents, carcino- people's scents, I am now primarily
gens, aldehydes, phthalates (suspected of causing birth defects), ben- housebound. What is most trou-
zenes (recently linked with leukemia), phenols, narcotics, and most bling is knowing that most people
alarming, neurotoxins (chemicals that slowly poison the central nervous continue to use harmful, falsely
system). They also contain chemicals which are known sensitizers, as advertised, products because they
well as countless chemicals listed on the EPA's Hazardous Waste List. simply do not know the health
risks, until it's too late.
Please learn more by reading my book, Get a Whiff of This:
Perfumes (fragrances)--the Invisible Chemical Poisons, by Connie Pitts.
Foreword by Rosalind C. Anderson. www.authorhouse.com, www.ama-
zon.com, www.bn.com. I hope you will read the reviews.
You can learn a great deal by reading the following websites:

www.fpinva.org, www.ehnca.org, www.nottoopretty.org, www.outlit-
tleplace.org, and www.dldewey.com/perfume.htm for an overall brief-
ing.
The numbers of people with MCS continue to rise--so does breast

cancer, all neurological diseases, children's cancers, and the indoor air
quality in most public buildings is worse than it has ever been in
American history, despite the removal of tobacco smoke.
Advertisement
MCS is a debilitating disease, and no one is immune to its effects.

It may happen slowly, then become disabling. There is no cure, only
avoidance. Millions of people lose their jobs, friends and end up home-
Cologne & Smelling Naturally
SEPTEMBER 4, 2005
AM ASSURED BY THE EDITORS OF THIS MAGAZINE THAT "THE DANDY" IS and, in an effort to smell it, has his
I BACK.Of course, this is exciting news. I look forward to the fall sea-
son when fashionable men will be primped and groomed like figure
arm wrapped around his face like
he's running through a burning
skaters, with burgeoning pumpkin cravats and ankle boots sharpened building. The other, eager to show
like Eberhard Fabers. off his sophistication, is hyperven-
tilating into the jar of coffee beans.
However, young squire, your right to exploratory vanity ends at my Soza one of the store's "certified
nose. Lay off the cologne. fragrance specialists" instructs
them, weary and benevolent, an
Believe me, I understand the impulse. Males are taught from an experienced older woman passing
early age that, left to our own devices, we smell bad. And, well, we sort on the secret codes pour homme, a
of do. Against America's pervasively astringent, odorless backdrop the madam of the nose.
clean room where hygiene meets mass consumerism any human scent
has the faint reek of criminality. Men start coming to Soza as
boys, often as young as 6 or 7 years
Then there's the psychology of cologne ads, which portray fra- old, wanting the same cologne that
grances as something like aromatic Mickey Finns, elixirs that render their dads wear chips off the old
females horny and stupid. In the Darwinistic dance of sexual competi- block, if the block has top-notes of
tion, men will take any advantage they can get. Pectoral implants, for bergamot and grapefruit zest.
example. Around 16, she says, boys start to
assert their own fragrance prefer-
No wonder we pour it on. The irony is that the most arousing and ences, a bid for pheromonal identi-
provocative male fragrance the one that will make women's clothes fly ty that's as touching as it is atavistic
off like you've turned a leaf-blower on them is Dial soap. in its lions-on-the-savannah way.
Karen Soza has smelled it all. She has worked the men's cologne Soza agrees, young men wear
counter at the Nordstrom in the Glendale Galleria for going on 13 years, much too much cologne. But not
long enough for her nose to put in for workers' comp. "We get immune just young men. Older men often
to it," Soza says, with just a touch of been-there-smelled-that ennui. suffer a kind of olfactory impotence
they can't smell the cologne, no
It's a typical day behind her mirrored and bottle-spiked counter. Two matter how much they put on. Soza
teenagers are trying on cologne one has sprayed the crook of his elbow has smiled with pleasant astonish-
ment while gentlemen spritz their Intensive Care hand lotion, cam-
bald heads until the stuff is running phor desiccant like the kind you put
into their ears. in your toolbox. The smell of hors-
es. I had a girlfriend who adored
She spends a good part of her patchouli oil, and so I spent an
day saving her customers from the entire summer smelling like an
cologne industry's propaganda. The Amsterdam coffee house, and I
effective range of cologne is about would have rubbed myself with
a hand's width not, as some cologne roadkill if she'd wanted.
primers suggest, an arm's length.
Cologne should be a surprise, a dis- And don't underestimate the
covery, a conspiracy shared power of cheap drugstore cologne
between a man and a woman in a Brut and English Leather and
moment of accidental closeness, British Sterling and even the anti-
say, during the widely practiced but quarian Clubman by Pinaud. Some
often fumbled air kiss. If people in women go through life looking for
your office can smell your cologne a man who smells like dear old dad.
at arm's length, trust me, they are
looking for a way to turn the fire I don't remember the first bottle
hose on you. of proper cologne I bought, or
when, or how I came to know its
I don't hold with Soza on some fragrant mysteries. But I'm pretty
of the finer points of cologne wear- sure I have someone like Soza to
ing. She recommends that cus- thank, some woman in a depart-
tomers put it on the hot spots the ment store who took me by the
wrists, the throat, the back of the hand and patiently led me to
knees. The back of the knees? Only cologne's sweet bower.
if you are moonlighting as a call
girl.
And I'm very suspicious of the

body chemistry theory. The truth is
men aren't that complicated. The
idea that some cologne clashes with
a given man's exquisite natural
scent is an invention of women try-
ing diplomatically to tell their hus-
bands or boyfriends that they smell
like a French polecat.
It seems to me that not all

cologne comes in a bottle. Spruce
sawdust, pipe tobacco, Vaseline
Cocoa by Chanel
SEPTEMBER 16, 2005
KATE MOSS'S 1.3 Moss is believed to have a per-

Q UESTIONS WERE RAISED TODAY OVER WHETHER
modelling contracts are in jeopardy after she was caught
MILLION
on camera apparently snorting cocaine.
sonal-fortune of 30million and
last year awarded herself a salary of
130,000 and dividends worth
There is speculation that many of the top brands she represents may 200,000 from her company Skate
be looking again at whether they want her associated with their prod- Enterprises, in which she is the sole
ucts. shareholder.
According to reports Moss, 31, who only two years ago denied tak- The fashion and PR worlds are
ing illegal drugs, faces a doubtful future with at least five big brands. split over how far the "cocaine"
Some are likely to have clauses in their contracts which would allow episode will damage her reputation
them to sack her if she brings their products into disrepute. and employability.
Cocaine threat to Kate's career PR chief Max Borkowski told

the Times: "She has done more to
Chanel, Christian Dior, Roberto Cavalli, Burberry and Rimmel all promote the idea of rock chic than
declined to comment. anyone else, but there's a difference
between flirting with that image
A 45-minute video obtained by the Daily Mirror apparently showed and being too closely associated
the supermodel preparing and snorting lines of white powder in a west with the sleazy side of rock and
London studio where her boyfriend Pete Doherty was taking part in a roll. You can play with it as long as
recording session. you aren't nailed, and she has been
crucified."
Chanel, which uses Moss as the face of its Mademoiselle perfume,
would not confirm she was still working for the label. A Christian Dior Sources close to Moss, who is
spokes wo-man, asked whether Moss continued to represent the brand, in New York for fashion week, said
said: "Good question. I can't answer that." A spokeswoman for Roberto her lawyer woke her to tell her
Cavalli, the Italian couturier, said she was not in a position to confirm about the allegations and she
Moss was still employed by the company. "laughed her head off". Another
source, however, claimed Moss
An H&M spokesman said: "It's very sad. We don't know what will was upset, adding: "She is terrified
happen at the moment. We are in talks with her agent to find out the she is going to lose the Chanel con-
facts and will make a decision after that." tract."
Cocaine & Chanel
SEPTEMBER 18, 2005
ORGET THE CLOTHES. KATE AND COKE WILL BE ALL THAT THE FASH- Moss has, however, apologised
F IONISTAS TALK ABOUT IN VIP AIRPORT LOUNGES, limousines and
dressing rooms today, as the most famous models and designers fly in
to the clothing firm H&M, which
pays her 500,000 a year. "She has
to the capital for the start of London Fashion Week. assured us it will not happen again
and as a result we are willing to
Photographs of Kate Moss snorting cocaine have threatened the give her a second chance," said a
contracts with luxury brands like Chanel and Dior that earn her up to spokeswoman. Moss will be the
4m a year. But an investigation by The Independent on Sunday has star of the company's Stella
revealed what every insider at this week's glittering event already McCartney collection, due to
knows: cocaine fuels the fashion industry at every level, from glam- launch in November. "We have
orous catwalk to exotic photo shoot. strict policies for models. They
should be healthy, wholesome and
"Models use coke like truck drivers do," said an industry insider sound, and we are strongly against
yesterday, "to stay awake and keep working." Another said cocaine was drug abuse. We made this clear to
used as a "performance-enhancing drug" in the same way athletes use Kate Moss."
steroids.
There was no comment yester-
And the model Sophie Anderton, who gave up cocaine a year ago, day from Chanel, Dior, Burberry or
told the IoS yesterday: "Drugs are so accessible within the industry, and Fred of Paris, all of which employ
it is very difficult to steer completely clear of them." Kate Moss. Rimmel did not com-
ment but her face was still on the
Ms Anderton, who dropped to six and a half stone as a result of her opening page of its internet site,
former addiction but is now "happy and focused", said: "The enormous which said she epitomised the cos-
pressures to stay thin in the industry almost lend themselves to take a metic company's "experimental,
substance well known for suppressing appetite." no-set-rules beauty philosophy".
Kate Moss, who once said "I never do class A", is said to be dis- Her plight will attract sympathy
traught at having been photographed cutting and taking cocaine while among many of those at the 50
with her boyfriend, the singer and drug addict Pete Doherty. She has yet shows this week. "Of course mod-
to comment, despite reports suggesting that she had been "carpeted" by els take cocaine," said a fashion
her modelling agency Storm and was considering entering a drug reha- insider, one of the many models,
bilitation programme. stylists and others in the industry
approached by the IoS. "So do danger. If she overdoses then so well as anyone. She is paid a report-
designers. And hairdressers, partic- much the better, she will be an icon. ed 500,000 a year by Dior, which
ularly. It is there at fashion shows, I'd have thought it would have has a perfume called Addict. She
definitely, but it is quite covert. made her even more of a commod- has modelled for Calvin Klein,
ity. With Burberry she could be in which produces Crave. And she
"If you're looking for a blizzard trouble: it's quite wholesome." was featured in adverts for the Yves
of cocaine, go on a shoot. They go Saint Laurent scent Opium. The
abroad, and it is like a little family: London Fashion Week is London-born model was also a
the model, the stylist, the fashion launched with a high-glamour party favourite waif for designers who
editor. That's when it really hap- at the National History Museum opted for a wasted, "heroin chic"
pens. I think it goes with the territo- today. Among those expected to look during the Nineties. That trend
ry." attend is Donatella Versace, who produced its most dramatic result in
announced earlier this year that she 1998 when the designer Andrew
"The fashion business has had given up cocaine after using the Groves produced a show called
always had this problem trying to drug for 18 years. "In the beginning Cocaine Nights that featured a
deal with self-destruction,' said I had a great time," she says. "I did- dress made of razor blades and a
Stephen Fried, who wrote the biog- n't feel I was addicted. You just feel catwalk strewn with white powder.
raphy of Gia Carangi. She was more awake, more aware.
widely acclaimed as the first super- Unfortunately it didn't continue like Jonathan Phang helped launch
model before becoming a drug that." Versace had been confronted the career of Jodie Kidd and many
addict. She died from an Aids-relat- by family and friends and agreed to others, and is now a judge on the
ed illness in 1986. "I have talked to go into rehab. reality television series Britain's
many models who have been sent Next Top Model. He has also
by their agencies to get cleaned up. worked closely with Christy
I don't think they have a hands-off Naomi Campbell, who is due to Turlington, Jerry Hall and Marie
approach at all." model for Julien Macdonald this Helvin. "There is no denying that
morning, admitted earlier this year some extremely seedy things go on
Mr Fried compared models that cocaine had provoked violent behind the scenes," he said. "There
using cocaine to athletes who take outbursts in her. "What is very are some horrible people willing to
steroids. "These women work scary is that you start to feel too stoop to any level to exploit beauti-
incredibly hard. They take drugs confident and you start to feel ful young women."
for the same reason a truck driver indispensable."
takes drugs. To stay awake and do They may strut the catwalk
their job. Like steroids, these are Kate Moss usually turns up to with confidence, said Mr Phang,
performance-enhancing drugs." support her friend Sadie Frost when but many models are hugely inse-
Frost French presents a show. So cure backstage. Some have left
Moss is unlikely to lose all her will she be there on Wednesday? their friends behind at school. "I've
contracts, said the fashion expert "Who knows, after this week's seen girls working in London dur-
James Sherwood, who spent time episode?" said a spokeswoman for ing the day, then getting on a plane
with the biggest names in fashion London Fashion Week. to Milan for a 3am fitting.
for the book and documentary Sometimes agents are pressing
Models Close Up. "Companies Fashion has long flirted with them to cash in while they are hot
want Kate Moss for the whiff of drug imagery, as Moss knows as property. They are not asking
whether the girls are getting enough examples of people". But yester-
sleep and eating properly." day, as more pictureswere pub-
lished, the Met said it could do
It was hard for a young model nothing.
to know whom to trust, he said.
"The wrong people use and abuse "If the Metropolitan Police
women, and they introduce drugs finds or is presented with evidence
as a means of control." of someone taking illegal drugs
then they will act, no matter who
Donal MacIntyre, who has that person is," said a spokes-
worked in the fashion industry as woman, but photographs were not
an undercover reporter, said: good enough evidence on their
"Some models have to do lashes of own.
cocaine just to keep the weight off.
Some will literally have a piece of However, that did not impress
toast a day. I talked to lots of mod- the former Home Office minister
els who were relying on cocaine Ann Widdecombe MP. "There
simply to keep the weight off. They would be charges brought against a
need to stay slim and sleek. It is a teenager standing on a street corner
brutal, brutal trade. Your time at the of an estate taking drugs, so the
top is not a long one. It is a lonely same should apply to celebrities,"
trade, too. Plus, cocaine is a party she said.
drug; fashion is a party industry."
Another person who is said to
The drug is as ubiquitous as be concerned about Moss's lifestyle
champagne and hors d'oeuvres at a is the publisher Jefferson Hack, the
launch party, confirmed many of father of Moss's 3-year-old daugh-
the industry insiders the IoS spoke ter: there are reports that he may be
to. "Backstage, at a shoot, just wait- seeking custody of Lila Grace.
ing around, people use coke like
others drink coffee," said one.
Seven months ago the new

Commissioner of the Metropolitan
police, Sir Ian Blair, said he was
concerned that cocaine was socially
acceptable among the middle class-
es. "There are are some who think
their weekend's wrap of charlie is
entirely harm-free," he said, "but it
may not be entirely harm-free for
much longer." Sir Ian promised his
force would be "making a few
232 DARK SIDE OF FRAGRANCES
Celebrity Scents
SEPTEMBER 19, 2005
ANDY WARHOL, will everyone have his or Bottle has subtle variations in glass
T O PARAPHRASE THE LATE
her 15 minutes of fragrance? These days almost any annoying
celebrity merits his or her own scent, in an artsy bottle and sold with a
thickness to reflect Oprah's fluctu-
ating weight.
dash of cloying hyperbole. Sarah Jessica Parker's Lovely came out last
month, described as "feminine," "classic," "romantic" and "everlasting." Richard T. Clark - Merck
Britney Spears has Curious. In February Jennifer Lopez put out her Morning After
third perfume, Miami Glow. Celine Dion and Paris Hilton named smells
after themselves. Rumors are a Madonna musk is coming. Men's medicinal cologne, with
hints of bourbon, eucalyptus and
Sales of celeb scents approached $100 million last year, part of a tuberose. Unusually large pill-
$500 million market for fragrances linked to the famous, as when shaped bottle is light and precarious
Nicole Kidman did a TVcommercial cuddling up to Chanel No. 5. The at the same time.
trend is so overdone that the actor Alan Cumming all but spoofed it with
his eau de toilette, Cumming, said to embody "sex, Scotch, cigars and Philip J. Purcell, ex-Morgan
Scotland."Even Donald Trump has The Fragrance, with sales of more
than $1 million in its firstmonth last year. Stanley - Cactus
Why can't other barons of business have their own scents, too? A prickly blend of pear, cedarwood
Kenneth Hirst, who designed the sleek bottles for Celine's Belong and and greenbacks, for the rugged
J. Lo's Still, has concocted some "business fragrance" themes for climber. Bottle, fittingly, is shaped
Martha and Oprah. We've added three others. like a cactus and has eight thorns in
its side.
Martha Stewart - Forever Humble
Larry Page & Sergey Brin, Google
Dandelions from prison yard. The green of the bottle is for envy, wealth
and gardening. The bottle also expresses Martha's penchant for home Voracious
decoration for the holiday season.
Exultant mix of grapefruit, lime,
Oprah Winfrey - O apple and berries, from fields
beyond search. Bottle is shaped like
A rich liqueur and a luscious fruit, an indulgence for someone who can a Las Vegas slot machine.
have it all.
Phthalate Dangers
OCTOBER 5, 2005
HTHALATES, A FAMILY OF COLORLESS OIL-LIKE SUBSTANCES THAT PRO- weight. In rats, under high doses of
P LONG THE SCENT OF PERFUME, make nail polish flexible, and prevent
childrens toys from cracking under the pressure of being chewed
phthalates, this anatomical change
also occurs, as does damage to the
among other uses. This follows on an activist-driven campaign over the reproductive systems of the rats. In
past year to have the chemicals banned in the U.S (see STATS earlier humans, no damage to the repro-
article A Health Care that Stinks for more background). ductive system was measured at all.
And the shortened anogenital dis-
Without directly endorsing the studies claiming a link between tance was well within normal
phthalates and male genital deformation, the WSJ suggested that we ranges for baby boys.
should be nervous: Phthalates are everywhere, and male infertility is on
the rise. Stop the production and distribution of materials using phtha- In addition, the study failed to
lates, so goes the reasoning. follow a couple of important statis-
tical principles. The burden of
Only theres a problem: the studies cited in the article are far less proof to show a correlation between
conclusive than the paper suggests. The WSJ cites two human studies two things (such as high phthalate
that conclude there is a link, describing their experiments in detail. But level and small anogenital index) is
it buries the mention of two studies that failed to find a link among com- measured by what is called the p-
ments doubting their validity, and, at the same time, avoids spending value. This value is a measure of
any time describing the studies methodologies. The result is a skewed how likely it is that we would see
picture of a controversial topic that guides the public towards the belief the data from the study purely by
that most of the evidence points toward a causal relationship, namely, chance and not because theres an
that phthalates are a threat to male reproductive health. actual correlation (or a causal rela-
tionship) between the two. The
The first study cited (by Swan et. al. and published in the same principle is behind the idea
Environmental Health Perspectives) found that baby boys whose that, if you flip a coin ten times,
mothers had the greatest phthalate exposures while pregnant were much you might get three heads and
more likely than other baby boys to have certain demasculinized traits, seven tails. Can you conclude that
according to the WSJ. But STATS examined this study carefully and the coin is biased? Depends on how
found some methodological problems, as well as a clear misinterpreta- unlikely it would be to get the
tion of the results by the press. The baby boys were not demasculin- skewed results. In the case of the
ized in any way: the boys had a smaller anogenital index, which is a Swan study, the p-value is calculat-
measure of the distance from the anus to the scrotum, adjusted for ed incorrectly they did not take into
account the fact that they tried to as high as babies not exposed, are
correlate the anogenital index with trumping reports of the follow up
several different phthalates. When study, which concluded that these
you try to associate a measurement same babies did not subsequently
with several different possible cor- have any fertility problems. The
relates, you have a higher chance of high stakes involved in the phtha-
finding something that is really late debate make it all the more
just a chance relationship. important that the media give a bal-
anced view of the scientific evi-
Other problems with Swan's dence.
study include a limited sample size
from only two locations in the U.S. Editors note -
This makes it very difficult to con-
trol for external factors that may be STATS will look at the underly-
the real cause of the anatomical ing arguments made in the Wall
difference measured in the study, Street Journal series on the risk
rather than phthalates. from trace amounts of chemicals in
food, consumer products and the
While the chips are not in on environment - and the toxicological
phthalates, remarkably few studies disputes that can skew the appear-
are looking into how phthalates get ance of risk - at a later date.
into our system. How are phthalates
used in construction materials,
clothing, toys and furnishings
adhesives, waxes, inks, cosmetics,
insecticides and drugs, as well as
perfumes and medical devices,
making their way to our babies, our
urine, and our sperm? In some
cases this might be obvious, such as
swallowing pills with a phthalate-
containing coating, but in others
(such as that found in nail polish),
the entry into the human body is not
clear at all.
Yet the argument against phtha-

lates is having an impact on indus-
tries that do not produce materials
meant to be swallowed. Scary
sound-bites, such as the result that
preemies exposed to medical tub-
ing have phthalate levels five times
Remaking Cosmetics
OCTOBER 19, 2005
Cosmetics - Jane Houlihan, with the

Environmental Working Group, a
consumer advocacy organization,
verything from soaps and shampoos to makeup and perfume are a says people have a right to know
E $35 billion industry in the United States. American consumers
might be surprised to learn that cosmetics manufacturers are not
the health risks associated with the
products they use. In a recent study,
required to test a product for safety before putting it on the market. EWG analyzed ingredients in
14,000 cosmetics. "We compiled
But that may be changing. A new California law is the first to those in a massive electronic data-
require that cosmetics companies disclose potentially toxic ingredients. base and then compared it system-
atically against government and
The weekend is a busy time at cosmetics counters at shopping malls academic lists of suspected health
across the United States. That's where Carrie Hetges, 17, takes a seat for effects from these chemicals," she
a free makeup session with Kristin Milan, product consultant with says.
Benefit cosmetics. "Look up for me dear! We are going to give you a
nice natural glow," she tells her customer. When Carrie tells her she isn't Shopping for lipstick
going anywhere special today, Kristin Milan says simply, "Every
woman should be pampered." Ms. Houlihan says the indus-
try's review panel has tested only
Cosmetics consultant Kristin Milan with teen client Carrie Hetges. 11% of the 10,500 ingredients in
Kristin Milan pampers Carrie's face, eyelids, eyelashes, eyebrows and these products. "That means the
lips. Minutes later the young blond, blue-eyed teen looks in the mirror vast majority of what we are using
and likes what she sees. "It's really a new me," she says, "My boyfriend on our bodies everyday has not
I think will like that." been assessed for safety publicly,"
she says. "We also found many
In rapid succession, Kristin Milan applies nine products to Carrie's products that do raise concerns
face. On average, American women use nine products from hand lotion progesterone, placenta ingredients
to toothpaste each day. While the U.S. Food and Drug Administration that are hormonally active that
says these products must be safe and their ingredients labeled, the FDA could affect our hormone system,
has not set a safety standard. The industry which sponsors a product ingredients that can effect repro-
review panel largely regulates itself. duction or a healthy pregnancy."
JAN HOULIHAN many of them. This bill is a joke. It

is not making anyone safer. It is
A new law in California makes creating bureaucracy. And would
it the first state to require manufac- you show me one person who was
turers to disclose known or suspect- injured by a known ingredient in
ed carcinogens or ingredients that cosmetics that has caused cancer or
could affect developmental or reproductive toxicity."
reproductive health. Jane Houlihan
applauds the new law, but says the Getting a manicure and nail
industry must do more. polish Jane Houlihan with the
Environmental Working Group
"It doesn't make sense to use says the proof comes from scientif-
carcinogens, reproductive toxins, ic studies: "A growing body of evi-
developmental toxins in personal dence shows that people who use
care products when there are alter- dark hair dyes for long periods of
natives," she says. "We need to see time for years in their life face
companies proactively make for- increased risks of bladder cancer,"
mulation changes to safer ingredi- she says. "We have new evidence in
ents. And I think the California law the area of phthalates. These are
will encourage that." common plasticizers. They are used
in fragrances and nail polishes.
DAVID STEINBERG And, a new study this year has
shown that baby boys exposed to
A statement from the Cosmetic, phthalates through breast milk or in
Toiletry, Fragrance Association the utero through their mother's expo-
leading industry trade group says sures have impaired reproductive
the California law is "damaging" development."
and "will do nothing to increase
public safety." Industry analyst and Jane Houlihan says new
columnist David Steinberg sums up research will help consumers make
the industry position: "California better choices. She calls on the
has been loosing manufacturing industry to set meaningful safety
jobs in the cosmetic industry for standards for their products. The
about the past 20 years. That is Cosmetics, Toiletries and
going to accelerate," he says. Fragrance Association faults the
EWG study and says consumers
Mr. Steinberg says the law should not be alarmed. Safety deci-
requires checking to see if cosmet- sions, the Association president
ics contain any of 50,000 chemi- says, must be based on "sound sci-
cals. "We are right now doing com- ence and not on misleading rhetoric
puter studies to see if any of them and Internet rumor."
are showing up in cosmetics," he
says, "and we are not finding very
Wasting Money on Expensive Perfumes
OCTOBER 19, 2005
ROMANS BELIEVED PERFUMES WERE APHRODISIACS. Only now are the bloodstream with adrenaline
T HE
various scientific studies beginning to prove these ancient beliefs
true. The Romans used perfumes lavishly, and made wide use of musk
until orgasm takes place.
in their perfumes. The musk they used was from the anal glands of the Torii found that the parasympa-
Ethiopian civet cat. Research today shows that musk closely resembles thetic branch of the automatic nerv-
the smell of testosterone, the male sex hormone, which both men and ous system was influenced by the
women have as part of a healthy and responsive libido. scent of essential oils made from
sandalwood, marjoram, lemon,
Musk can also be obtained from a sac in the abdomen of the male chamomile and bergamot. The
musk deer. Due to protests from animal rights groups, and the extreme action of the sympathetic nervous
cost of real musk, synthetics are widely used today. Musk is used as a system was increased by the scents
fixative and a base note in many perfumes. Perfumiers use the musi- of jasmine, ylang ylang, rose,
cal analogy of notes to describe a perfumes effect. Base notes, acting patchouli, peppermint, clove, bois
as fixatives, prolong the scent of a perfume on the skin, and add an de rose, and clove. An ideal aphro-
earthier fragrance to the composition of the perfume that complements disiac, then, would be a combina-
the usually floral top and middle notes. When you smell a perfume in a tion of these scents possibly the
store, you smell the top note first, which lasts mere minutes, the middle ones you find most appealing. You
note second, which lasts a few hours, and the base note last, which can can buy the essential oils in health
last days. Thus, a musky perfume will mark you with a certain je ne sais food stores. They are very concen-
quoi for a few days. trated, however, and they need to be
diluted. You can put a few drops of
Scent, Sex, and the Nervous System essential oil into a carrier oil like
jojoba oil, olive oil or even just
In olfactory studies conducted at Toho University in Japan, canola oil.
Professor Shizuo Torii demonstrated the influence of the scent of floral
and herbal essential oils on the sympathetic branch of the nervous sys- Are Expensive Perfumes
tem. Sexual arousal and response is controlled by the two parts of the Alluring or a Waste of Money?
sympathetic nervous system. The sympathetic nervous system prepares
us for physical action or emergencies, and the parasympathetic nervous Its not the only time a study
system generally stimulates the opposite responses. The parasympathet- like this has been done. Nancy M.
ic nervous system is dominant during arousal, until the intensity of Booth, professional perfumier and
arousal builds, and then the sympathetic nervous system begins to flood author of Perfumes, Splashes and
Colognes: Discovering and oh, whos wearing the cat pee? So work very well in the bedroom if
Crafting Your Own Personal you have to be sure its something they are attractive to both partners
Fragrances, remembers that the that someone elses nose appreci- noses. However, theres nothing
same test was done by Glamour ates as much as yours. that says a few drops of essential oil
magazine with uncannily similar in vegetable oil wont work just as
results. They did a multiplicity of First, you have to figure out well. Thats also an excellent mas-
tests on men, to see which ones which fragrance families you and sage oil.
evoked a sexual response, she your partner like. In the fragrance
says, and cinnamon buns, pump- families for women, theres floral,
kin pie, and licorice were the scents fruity, citrus and spicy, which are
that men responded to. self-explanatory. There is also
green, which is more or less the
But what woman wants to scent of freshly mowed grass; mod-
smell like roast beef or pumpkin ern, which is made up of chemical
pie? scents that have no natural equiva-
lent; and chypre, a fragrance for-
Common Sense, Aphrodisiacs, and mula inspired by the Mediterranean
Perfumes isle of Cypress. There is also orien-
tal, the heaviest fragrance family,
Your sense of smell is the which includes wood, resin, and
strongest of your five senses. There musk scents. Obsession by Calvin
is a memory center in your brain Klein is an example of an oriental.
called the smell print. If someone The newest family of fragrance is
enjoys someone elses fragrance, ozone-oceanic: think sea-spray. As
and then they smell it again, even if well as the families mentioned
it is years later, they will remember above, there are a few different
it. It is like a fingerprint but it is a families in mens fragrances, such
smell print. Fragrance is very pow- as leather and lavender.
erful and it evokes very emotional
responses in people, says Booth. Knowing the person you are
Ive had people follow me in trying to attract and what fragrance
Home Depot and say, wow, what families they like makes a big dif-
are you wearing. It shows you that ference, says Booth. One couple,
on every level people are very it was her birthday. And she really
aware of smells. She advises that liked this lemon-lime (citrus fra-
when trying to find a perfume to grance family). So he bought the
work as an aphrodisiac, make sure lemon-lime. A few weeks later he
that both you and your partner are came up to me and he said, do you
equally enamoured with it. have any of that lemon-lime with
you? And I said, why? And he
I bought a perfume that was said, I got lucky.
just wonderful, she recalls. And I
came home, and my husband said, Expensive perfumes, then, can
Crashes & Air Freshners
OCTOBER 24, 2005
AR AIR-FRESHENERS COULD ACTUALLY CAUSE CAR CRASHES, accord- It looked at the effects of spray
C ing to a Bahrain-based aromatherapy expert. That is because they
can cause sleepiness, headaches, irritability and even depression in driv-
and chemical plug-in air-fresheners
on 14,000 women during their
ers, says Spa Arabia Concepts managing director and spa consultant pregnancy and on their babies six
Betsy Mathieson Abdulrahman. months after birth.
"Chemicals are all around you and car air-fresheners are among the The study was divided into two
worst," she told the GDN. groups: the first used chemical air-
fresheners on most days, while the
"We are being bombarded with chemicals, but car air-fresheners are second was not exposed to them at
worse because of the enclosed space. all.
"We should also be aware of chemicals in wrappers and packets in It found that 25 per cent more
our cars. of those in the group exposed to air-
fresheners suffered from
"Multiple Chemical Sensi-tivity (MCS) is something we should all headaches, while 19pc more had
be aware of, as chemicals are found in food wrappers and cleaning prod- post-natal depression.
ucts."
Meanwhile, 30pc more babies
Mrs Abdulrahman referred to a survey conducted by a doctor in the under six months suffered ear
UK, which showed a link between depression and the use of chemical infections after being exposed to
air-fresheners. chemical air-fresheners, while 20pc
more had diarrhoea.
The study examined 50 clinically depressed patients who were suf-
fering from anxiety and hyperventilation - and all used air-fresheners. "There is nothing natural in
these types of air-fresheners, they
While using the air-fresheners they complained of nausea, irritabil- are full of man-made chemicals, or
ity, insomnia, headaches and depression, but once they stopped using if they do have anything natural in
them their symptoms vanished. them it would be a drop of an
essential oil along with 30 chemi-
A study conducted in 1999 by Bristol University, UK, also high- cals," said Mrs Abdulrahman.
lighted the negative effects of chemical air-fresheners.
"MCS is real because of all our "When driving, don't use laven-
environmental pollution - you walk der or things that will make you too
into the department store or the toi- relaxed," said Mrs Abdulrahman,
let and all of these fragrances are who has been working with aro-
forced upon you." matherapy oils since the mid-
1970s.
As an alternative to chemical
air-fresheners, Mrs Abdulrahman "You need to have your instinct
recommends those made from about you so you can have black
essential oils. pepper, eucalyptus, bergamot, pep-
permint or tea-tree oil.
However, she advised drivers to
be careful what type of essential oil "Tea-tree oil is also anti-viral
they choose for their cars - as some and kills airborne viruses.
such as lavender can have a seda-
tive effect. "If you need energy, or want to
be awake, take rosemary. It works
A report by the RAC, UK, also on the memory banks of the brain."
showed that air-fresheners and car
smells impacted on driver behav-
iour.
It found that the smell of a car

could cause dozing and road rage,
but could also improve concentra-
tion and clear thinking.
Among other things the study

showed that camomile, lavender
and jasmine, which are often pre-
sented in many flower-scented air-
fresheners, could cause drivers to
become over relaxed.
It also showed that food and

wrappers in cars could cause irri-
tability, hunger and give rise to
speeding and road rage.
However, smells such as pep-

permint, lemon and cinnamon were
shown to improve concentration.
Bathrooms Toxicity
OCTOBER 24, 2005
ARLIER THIS YEAR, THE US FOOD AND DRUG ADMINISTRATION (FDA) even greater number of substances
E DID SOMETHING AMAZING. It issued an unprecedented warning to the
cosmetics industry that it was time to inform consumers that most per-
in personal care products are sus-
pected to present potential risks to
sonal care products have not been safety tested. human health from this known
effect on animals.
Where the US goes, the UK inevitably follows. If the FDA starts the
ball rolling by flexing its muscles, it is possible that in the not too dis- If these problems had been
tant future 99 per cent of personal care products could be required to linked to pharmaceutical drugs, the
carry a caution on the label: "Warning: The safety of this product has products would have been taken off
not been determined." the market. At the very least,
money would have been spent on
What concerns scientists at the FDA and at environmental health safety studies. But because the cos-
organisations throughout the world is the "cocktail effect" the daily mix- metics industry is largely self-gov-
ing of many different types of toxins in and on the body and how this erning, and because we all want to
might damage health over the longer term. believe in the often hollow promis-
es of better skin and whiter teeth,
On average, we each use nine personal care products a day contain- products containing potentially
ing 126 different ingredients. Such "safety" testing as exists looks for harmful substances remain in use
reactions, such as skin redness, rashes or stinging, but does not investi- and on sale. Think it can't be that
gate potential long-term problems for either humans or the environ- bad? Consider what goes into some
ment. Yet the chemicals that go into products such as shampoos and of the UK's most popular toiletries.
hand creams are not trace contaminants. They are the basic ingredients.
Olay Regenerist
Absorbed into the body, they can be stored in fatty tissue or organs
such as the liver, kidney, reproductive organs and brain. Cosmetics com- What they claim: Instantly
panies complain of unfounded hysteria, but scientists are finding indus- improves the appearance of fine
trial plasticisers such as phthalates in urine, preservatives known as lines and wrinkles.
parabens in breast-tumour tissue, and antibacterials such as Triclosan
and fragrance chemicals like the hormone-disrupting musk xylene in But watch out: To work, the
human breast milk. Medical research is proving that fragrances can trig- product needs to be well absorbed,
ger asthma; that the detergents in shampoos can damage eye tissue; and so Regenerist contains penetration
that hair-dye chemicals can cause bladder cancer and lymphoma. An enhancers like disodium EDTA.
But these also drive toxins deeper deeply into skin and bloodstream. garages and factories, albeit in
into the skin. Watch out for hor- much smaller concentrations.
mone disrupters such as ethyl- Johnsons Baby Softwash Eternity contains a staggering 41
paraben, methylparaben and propy- ingredients, about 80 per cent of
lparaben and potential carcinogens What they claim: Best for baby, which have never been tested for
such as polyacrylamide, tri- best for you. safety in humans. The rest are
ethanolamine (which can form can- known neurotoxins, allergens, irri-
cer-causing nitrosamines), and the But watch out: Children's skin tants and/or hormone disrupters.
artificial colours CI 16035, CI is thinner and more absorbent than Still think perfume is sexy?
19140 and PTFE (Teflon). adults', so is a less effective barrier
Regenerist contains the sunscreens to chemical toxins. The rates of Lynx Dry
butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane eczema and allergies among chil-
(B-MDM) and ethylhexyl salicy- dren are on the rise and the early What they claim: Spray more, get
late; not enough for an SPF rating, introduction of toiletries on to sen- more.
but potentially enough to irritate sitive skin may be a factor. When
skin. soap does the job, why expose your But watch out: Lynx Dry con-
child to skin and eye irritants such tains three types of neurotoxins:
Clairol Herbal Essences as sorbitan laurate, cocamidopropyl solvents such as PPG-14 butyl
Shampoo Dry/Damaged Hair betaine and acrylates/C10-30 alkyl ether; the propellants butane, isobu-
acrylate crosspolymer, or PEG-150 tane and propane; and synthetic fra-
What they claim: A totally organic distearate, PEG-80, PEG-14M and grance chemicals. It contains a pre-
experience. sodium laureth sulphate that can be servative BHT (butylated hydroxy-
contaminated with the carcinogens toluene), which has been linked
But watch out: It looks and 1,4 dioxane and ethylene oxide, or with cancer, and PEG-8 distearate,
smells appealing because it is hormone disrupters such as which can be contaminated with the
coloured using four potentially can- parabens? In addition, there's noth- hormone-disrupting carcinogens
cer-causing dyes (CI 17200, CI ing here that naturally moisturises ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane as
15510, CI 42053, CI 60730) and the skin - only synthetic polymers well as polycyclic aromatic com-
perfumed with synthetic fragrances (plastic-like substances) like pounds such as benzene and
that are known neurotoxins and polyquaternium-7 and polypropy- benz(a)pyrene. Aluminium zirconi-
skin irritants. Among its detergents, lene terephthalate that coat it, mere- um tetrachlorohydrex GLY and alu-
sodium lauryl sulphate can irritate ly giving the impression of smooth- minium chlorohydrate work by
skin and permanently damage eye ness. clogging pores, but long exposure
tissue, and sodium laureth sulphate to aluminium-containing deodor-
and cocamide MEA can be contam- Calvin Kleins Eternity ants raises the risk of diseases such
inated with 1,4-dioxane, a hormone as Alzheimer's.
disrupter associated with breast What they claim: What the world
cancer. Cocamidopropyl betaine, needs now is love. Colgate Total
another detergent, is a penetration
enhancer, as is the solvent propy- But watch out: Perfumes are What they claim: 12-hour fresh
elel glycol and the preservative made from the same neurotoxic sol- breath and antibacterial protection.
tetrasodium EDTA; all allow other vents found in glues and adhesives
chemicals to pene- trate more and volatile chemicals common in But watch out: Conventional
toothpastes often contain irritating and isobutane). ic dyes, and hormone-disrupting

detergents like sodium lauryl sul- ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate. It
phate, which can cause sore gums Clairol NiceN Easy contains perfume ingredients that
and mouth ulcers, and abrasives are capable of irritating (coumarin,
like hydrated silica, which can What they claim: Natural-looking benzyl salicylate, limonene) and
erode tooth enamel. Total contains colour with complete grey cover- disrupting the central nervous sys-
a glue-like substance, PVM/MA age. tem (butylphenyl methylpropional,
copolymer, that sticks the active alpha-isomethyl ionone, linalool).
ingredients to teeth. Saccharin, a But watch out: All hair dye sold
known carcinogen in animals, is in the EU containing phenylenedi- Nivea Body
also found. The colouring CI 42090 amines, resorcinol and/or 1-naph-
(banned in Austria, Belgium, thol must carry a warning: "Can What they claim: Feel the essential
France, Germany, Norway, cause an allergic reaction. Do not care.
Switzerland and Sweden) causes use to colour eyelashes or eye-
cancer in animals. Total contains brows." Other hair dye ingredients - But watch out: Along with
Triclosan, an antibacterial agent including coal tar dyes, 4-chloro- semi-synthetic fatty acids and
that can in certain circumstances m-phenylenediamine, 2,4-toluene- waxes, Nivea Body contains dena-
combine with chlorine in tap water diamine, 2-nitro-p-phenylenedi- tured alcohol and glycerine, which
to produce chloroform gas, which amine and 4-amino-2-nitrophenol - can dry skin with repeated use. It
is easily absorbed into the skin or have proven carcinogenic in at least also contains several estrogenic
inhaled and can cause depression, one animal species. In humans, preservatives (methylparaben,
liver problems and cancer. intensive longer-term use of perma- butylparaben, ethylparaben,
nent hair dye is associated with isobutylparaben, propylparaben),
Gillette Mach 3 Shaving Gel breast, ovarian and bladder cancer, contact allergens (phenoxy-ethanol,
non-Hodgkin's lymphoma, multiple linalool, citronellol, hydroxyiso-
What they claim: The best a man meyeloma and rheumatoid arthritis. hexyl 3-cyclohexene carcoxalde-
can get. hyde) and a potential carcinogen
Radox Bubble Bath (limonene). Film-formers like
But watch out: Helped by a dimethicone keep undesirable
global advertising campaign featur- What they claim: Soothes emo- ingredients next to the skin longer.
ing David Beckham, Gillette shav- tions, cleanses the body. About one-third of the listed ingre-
ing products have carved their way dients are fragrances that are
into the male psyche. If he thought But watch out: Soaking in hot known irritants and sensitisers of
about the ingredients, would the water increases skin permeability human skin; chemicals that, with
"epitome of the well groomed man" and helps vaporise chemicals in repeated exposure, can trigger
be so keen to promote the product? products, making them more easily allergic reactions.
Mach 3 gel contains skin irritants inhaled. Radox Relax contains
such as triethanolamine, palmitic potential skin irritants (sodium lau- Clearasil 3-In-1 Deep Cleaning
acid glyceryl oleate, three potential reth sulphate, cocamidopropyl Wash
carcinogens (polytetrafluoroethyl- betaine) potential carcinogens such
ene (Teflon), BHT, CI 42090) and as the preservative combo What they claim: Clinically proven
three central nervous system toxins methylchloro-isothiazolinone and to help fight spots.
or pollutants (isopentane, parfum methylisothiazolinone and synthet-
But watch out: A mix of strong longer. Fluoride in quantity is poi-

detergents and surfactants (sodium sonous if swallowed, and the
lauryl sulfate, cetyl betaine, dis- sweetener saccharin causes bladder
tearyl-dimonium chloride and cancer in animals. Finally, synthet-
steareth-21), chemical exfoliants ic colours, aromas and flavours are
(salicylic acid) and solvents (glyc- made from volatile solvents that
erin, alcohol, menthol) that are can alter the basic flora of the
capable of removing the skin's nat- mouth and may cause dermatitis.
ural oils, and synthetic skin condi-
tioners for repairing some of the Pat Thomas is health editor of The
damage inflicted by the other ingre- Ecologist. Her series 'Behind the
dients. It contains two potential car- Label' appears in the magazine
cinogens (BHT and disodium every month
EDTA) and fragrance ingredients
among the most commonly report- (www.theecologist.org)
ed contact allergens in the EU
(behenyl alcohol, limonene benzyl
salicylate, linalool and hexyl cinna-
mal). These so consistently lead to
skin problems that they must now
be listed separately on labels within
the EU.
Listerine Teeth & Gum

Defence
What they claim: Kills the germs

that cause plaque and bad breath.
But watch out: This mouthwash

is 21.6 per cent alcohol. Alcohol
dries and changes the pH of the
mouth and throat and long-term use
of alcohol-containing mouthwashes
increases the risk of mouth and
throat cancers. Listerine also con-
tains a mild detergent, poloxamer
407, that is soluble in liquids at low
temperatures but turns to a gel at
higher temperatures (ie, body tem-
perature). That makes it a film-for-
mer, "glueing" other ingredients on
to the surfaces of the mouth for
New Cars & Their Smells
OCTOBER 26, 2005
HAT NEW CAR SMELL, IS THE MOST EXPENSIVE FRAGRANCE IN THE Toyota spokesman Paul Nolasco
T WORLD, says gfn.coms gay financial expert Andrew Tobias. It can
also be hazardous to your health.
told the press, "Cutting down on the
things that lead to these smells is
only something that can be better
Researchers have conclusively linked that fragrant new-car smell to for you."
a toxic cocktail of harmful chemicals emanating from fresh plastic,
paint and upholstery. In the U.S., the Washington-
based Alliance of Automobile
Just sitting in a new car can subject riders to toxic emissions sever- Manufacturers, which represents
al times the limits deemed safe for homes or offices, according to a nine carmakers including General
study by Australia's Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Motors Corp., Ford Motor Co. and
Organization. Daimler Chrysler AG, says it does-
n't follow the issue of VOCs.
"We find new car interiors have much higher volatile organic com-
pounds levels than any building we've researched," announced research
leader Steve Brown, who noted the problem tends to dissipate after
about six months.
The fumes leached from glues, paints, vinyls and plastics in the pas-
senger compartment can trigger headaches, sore throats, nausea and
drowsiness. Prolonged exposure to some of the chemicals, like
formaldehyde, can lead to cancer.
Earlier this year, Japanese car makers addressed the issue by agree-
ing by 2007 to cut cabin levels of 13 volatile organic compounds, or
VOCs, including possible cancer-causing agents styrene and formalde-
hyde, to match Japanese Health Ministry guidelines for air quality in
homes.
Toyota, Nissan, Honda, Mitsubishi and Mazda are rolling out cars
in compliance and touting the lower VOC levels as a key selling point,
reports the Associated Press.
Sex & Fragrance
OCTOBER 26, 2005
HE SECRET TO STEAMING THINGS UP IS INEXPENSIVE, doesnt require a home on the field/court/rink. The
T prescription, and comes straight from Mother Nature. Its scent, and
a growing body of scientific research shows that scent-producing
culinarily-inclined can also benefit
from pheromones. Many scents of
pheromones play a key role in attracting sexual partners. common foods and food combina-
tions have been shown to increase
Thats right the secret to a night of wild, uninhibited passion could sexual stimulation, including black
lie in the pumpkin pie that you baked or the vanilla candle you burn on licorice, cinnamon buns and a
the night table. pumpkin pie/lavender combination.
Sexual drive is a very primitive drive, explained Dr. Christine In a study conducted by Dr.
Richards, an instructor at Heaven Scent School of Aromatherapy in Alan Hirsch of the Chicago-based
London. Smell goes straight to the brain, and if youre smelling some- Smell and Taste Research
thing you like, you can easily get aroused. Foundation, women reacted most
feverishly to a scent combination of
The most commonly believed and studied claim is that women are licorice and cucumber. They were
attracted to a mans sweat. But it is important very important for men to least aroused by the smell of cher-
understand that keeping your dirty gym clothes in your car wont turn ries and charcoal barbeque smoke.
you into every womans fantasy.
What turned men off?
According to a study conducted by the Social Issues Research According to Hirsch, men were
Centre (SIRC) entitled The Smell Report, there are two types of male least aroused by the scent of cran-
pheromones. One is found to be a turn-on for most women, while the berries. So ladies, when youre
other is a guaranteed deterrent. cooking Thanksgiving dinner, hold
the cranberry sauce, but make extra
Androstenol is the scent produced by fresh male sweat and is pumpkin pie.
attractive to females. Androstenone is produced by male sweat after
exposure to oxygen i.e. when less fresh and is perceived as highly One key to remember for scent
unpleasant by females (except during ovulation, when their responses success is to use essential oils, not
change from negative to neutral), according to Kate Fox, director of synthetic, chemically manufactured
the SIRC and author of the study. oils and fragrance, according to
Richards. Only essential oils can
But all hope isnt lost for all you men out there who dont feel at produce physiological stimulation.
Trade Marking Strawberries Fails
OCTOBER 27, 2005
was
A N ATTEMPT TO TRADEMARK THE SMELL OF RIPE STRAWBERRIES
thrown out by European Union judges yesterday.
A Paris company, Eden, tried to trademark the smell and a picture

of a strawberry for a range of soaps, face cream, stationery, leather
goods and clothing.
It argued that strawberries might taste differently but they all smell
alike.
But the court said sensory experts had found they could have up to
five distinct scents. "This means ... the different varieties of strawberries
produce significantly different smells," the judges ruled.
They went on: "There is no generally accepted international classi-

fication of smells which would make it possible ... to identify an olfac-
tory sign."
However, they agreed that, in some cases, a trademark for a scent

could be allowed.
Only one scent has so far won EU trademark protection: the smell
of freshly cut grass. A Dutch perfume company registered it in 2000 and
uses it to make tennis balls smell good.
Aoife White
Branding
NOVEMBER 2, 2005
HE SMELL OF ARMPITS, DIRTY LAUNDRY, AND SOILED DIAPERS are all The Sensory Expansions
T now highly sought-after scents, as companies, pursuing smelly-
branding have all lined up, excited for having exclusive rights to aromas This brand new frontier is said
which they can use to bring odor to their lifeless products. Like, peachy- to be giving a big boost to odorless
smelly-bras or chocolate-smelly-underpants and so on. products. The general idea is that
by using smell as an exclusive sen-
All of a sudden, there is a rush to secure a copyright on any distinct sory tickler, now considered by
smell from our daily lives, and exclusively use it in conjunction with a many, a stroke of branding genius,
branded product or a service. Like the smell of bread in a hot oven at marketers can bring life to their
the bakery to be used by a sandwich maker, or like the smell of Gouda already dead brands. Sounds very
cheese and the notorious whiff of dirty socks, to be exclusively used by sensory, but in reality, its time to
a shoe maker. smell the coffee.
Ridiculous Attempts According to the practitioners

of these trendy branding jockeys,
So here it is. This is what happened to the most recent aggressive every corporation is supposed to
attempts by Paris-based company, Eden Sarl, who tried very hard to get have their own distinct branded
the smell of strawberries exclusively copyrighted for products of soap, smell. Remember the fumes and the
stationery, leather goods and clothing. steamy whiffs when you enter a
sausage factory, a Laundromat,
Initially, EU Trademark agencies refused their earlier applications, beauty saloon or funeral parlor.
so they took it to their regional second-highest courts. They too, reject-
ed Eden Sarls application. So whats all the fuss? Now just wait for the exclusive
and powerful smell of a bank,
The smell of armpits, dirty laundry, and soiled diapers are all now where every branch smells the
highly sought-after scents, as companies, pursuing smelly-branding same. Perhaps the smell of a fish
have all lined up, excited for having exclusive rights to aromas which store, or a realty office with a smell
they can use to bring odor to their lifeless products. Like, peachy- of a rose-garden, with soft music all
smelly-bras or chocolate-smelly-underpants and so on. There are some aimed to hypnotize the customer.
not so pungent odors, like apples, bananas and oranges, but all the What about the smell of a hotel?
attempts for exclusive use have failed. Should it smell like an airport or the
last diesel taxi? The desperate
hours of the desperate branding are Exclusive Noses

already here. You not only need to
hear and see the collapse, but now As part of a new craze for
you can smell the rat too. smelly-branding, hip brand man-
agers are desperately trying to proj-
Branding Limitations ect a sensory message with an
exclusive aroma. Checkbooks are
When there is no proper name being scented, clothes are pre-per-
brand identity, and there is no fumed, and cars are wildly sprayed.
sophisticated cyber-branding game Now you know why massage oils
plan, then there is certain panic to are scented, and how aromatherapy
find dumb and dumber things to do became so popular.
and keep the branding circus going
in all directions. For perfume companies, this
was a normal thing to come out
According to BBC reports, the with an exclusive fragrance, and to
EU courts stated "Strawberries do sell it as an expensive branded per-
not have just one smell. This means fume or cologne. But now, for
that the different varieties of straw- branding to rush after the generic
berries produce significantly differ- smells from the public domain and
ent smells." Surely, we now need claim them exclusive for their prod-
some wine tasters and keen noses. uct lines, is a short lived gimmick
of a tricky branding attempt by the
On the strawberry issues, the feeble few marketers and their
company wanted this aroma exclu- nasal clogged minds.
sively for their product lines, just
like the way some companies Any brand can develop any
attempted to claim exclusive corpo- original fragrance and use it just
rate colors, which indecently holds like any fashion brands have
no water either and no longer a already done so successfully, but to
winning case, as there are only few say that the smell of the ocean and
colors and billions of companies sea salt is exclusively copyrighted
and products. Blue is no longer to a tire company is really having
exclusive to IBM, but equally used the creative noses buried in merde!
by ten thousand other computer Phew, thats some aroma.
companies. What worked in the
fifties, as an exclusive color idea, is
no longer valid in the post-millen-
nium market. Dont you smell trou-
ble here?
Fall Sports & Their Smells
NOVEMBER 11, 2005
F ALL THE FIVE SENSES, SMELL IS EASILY MY FAVORITE. My reactions Soccer for both men and
O to different smells vary a great deal. For instance, when certain
girls walk by me with some kind of incredible perfume or whatever
women described their smells to
me. Junior Meghan Marie Fowler-
scent it is girls wear these days, I will immediately become interested in Finn claims that when the girls
meeting them. Sometimes a certain smell such as my chocolate chip wear practice pennies (those stylish
cookies in the oven (yes, I bake cookies), makes me hungry. This is red jerseys you would throw over
because we often associate scent with something we enjoy. Our sense of your t-shirt in high school gym
smell is called "olfaction." class) a day after wearing them in
the rain, the pennies emit a horrid
Certain people's olfaction is stronger than others. It was under my aroma.
suspicion that through my olfaction I could better understand fall sports
and the various smells that these athletes gleefully give off. I set out and "It smells as if something small
researched the Washington University fall sports teams. I smelled vari- like a little gray squirrel got into the
ous articles of clothing, pieces of equipment, and the occasional sweaty pennies and died the night before,"
person. I decided that it was better to simply rate each sport's overall commented Fowler-Finn.
stinkage. My results were very interesting.
Matt Fenn, a junior goalie,
Football is the fall frontrunner for overall raunchy scent. According claims that his goalie gloves have a
to defensive back freshman Tommy Bawden, "Our shoulder pads are very strong odor.
what smell the worst, and that's pretty much because we wear them
everyday and they are never washed. Eventually as a football player, "My goalie gloves are part of
though, you get used to it." the worst smell I have ever smelled
in my life. I wash my hands twice
I indeed took a brisk whiff of a random football player's pads and after every game, and they still
nearly passed out. I was either high or could not breathe; I could not smell," said Fenn. "Their smell is
decide. I thought about Bawden's comments about getting used to the comparable to a wet sweaty shirt
smell. I thought about the people that haul manure everyday-do they get that was left in a dark place for a
used to that smell as well? I therefore had to give football an overall 8.7 month."
(10 being the worst smell) due to the fact that every time I went into the
varsity locker room during my research, I was reminded of my one dev- Although Fenn and Fowler-
astating whiff by 50 or so shoulder pads resting at the top of the lock- Finn gave me a good case to rate
ers. them higher than football, I decided
to give them a 7.37 for a couple rea- they were indeed quite pungent.
sons. I did smell Fenn's gloves, and Pungent indeed. I therefore gave
alone they get a 13.2 (on scale from volleyball a 7.01.
1 to 10), but since there is only one
goalie during a game, his gloves are Cross country comes in last on
part of a less frequent smell associ- the stank scale for a few reasons.
ated with soccer. The penny jerseys When I asked sophomore runner
are not part of the soccer team's Michael Nasuta what part of the
game uniform, so therefore the sport smells, he responded by say-
dead animal stench did not pull ing, "The groin region after running
them to the top. usually omits a strong stench." He
described the smell as "the smell of
Volleyball was a sleeper on the pure man." Whether or not I had to
stank scale. I theorized that volley- smell this pure man stench is not
ball would be the most decent smell important.
and would probably average out at
about 4.1. This prediction came Cross country, unlike any other
with the few things I know about sport, runs in big open areas with
women's volleyball. The uniform fresh air. I realized that every sport
consists of a tight shirt and tight probably has the same groin smell,
semi-shorts. With this in mind I which I believe can also be referred
imagined that any bad smell would to as body odor. Since cross coun-
slide off the surface of the uniform try has nothing unique about their
and disappear into the stratosphere uniforms that make them smell
of the well-kept athletic center. more or less, I had to give them a
4.0. The 4.0 rating is basically the
Sophomore Kathy Leeper generic rating I give to people after
informed me, however, of another they work out.
part of every volleyball player's
game attire- kneepads. During the past few weeks of
research I learned a lot about my
"We wear them to every prac- olfaction. The smell of cut grass,
tice and game, and after wearing crops being harvested, the fra-
them so often the smell just does grance of leaves on a wet fall day
not leave, no matter how many can all bring back memories. The
washes the knee pads go through," smell of the men and women's var-
explained Leeper. sity locker room makes me pinch
my nose in disgust. In the end I
Leeper also went on to say that realized not to get mad at fellow
some girls on the team have worse- students when they say that
smelling kneepads than others. I Washington University fall sports
did get a chance to smell some stink, because they may mean it lit-
kneepads during my research and erally. At least I do.
Fragrant City
NOVEMBER 17, 2005
8 MILLION PEOPLE, the We are so used to tuning

I T MAKES SENSE THAT A CITY MASSING TOGETHER
world capital of the arts and finance and entertainment and diploma-
cy, the teeming center of countless cultures and histories and myths,
expected smells out, developing
our anosmia, that when an unex-
should be known for a multitude of smells both foul and fair. pected one emerges, it throws us.
.. Veronique Ferval, director of fragrance development for International For some, the sweet smell
Flavors and Fragrances, says that no matter how much we complain, struck fear. One friend of mine the-
New York's subways ... orized at the time that it was some
kind of chemical weapon, or at
On one level, we're all inured to it. To the fishy smell on the streets least something dangerous and
in Chinatown and the dank slaughterhouse runoff that's still between the toxic, but tests by the police depart-
cobblestones in the Meatpacking District. The dog piss in the alleys, the ment revealed nothing dangerous in
rotting food in garbage bags waiting to be collected and the salty sea air the air. A piece in The New Yorker
that sometimes wafts over downtown to remind us we live in a port city. was more cynical, theorizing (per-
haps in jest) that it might have been
Of course there are the food smells coming from restaurants and an elaborate ploy by real estate
street carts, the Indian and Thai spices, the spicy burritos, the souvlaki agents to improve sagging housing
steak and pretzels cooking on the vendor's grill and the roasting nuts. It values. Some thought it might be a
is a constant sensory overload that we learn to ignore, until some out- quick change in the weather affect-
of-towner points out the stink of the ginkgo trees in Central Park on a ing the trees. The jury is still out on
fall day. New Yorkers noticed, though, when a sweet smell of unknown the cause, but even chocolate
provenance covered the city a couple of weeks back. maker Jacques Torres was reported-
ly questioned in the official inquiry.
Whether one thought it was caramel or freshly baked pie, it was its
very unusualness that perked everyone up from Staten Island to the The subway has its own smells.
Upper East Side. Each station has a distinctive
aroma. Some stations aren't particu-
"For some reason I thought it was my girlfriend's hair, and I asked larly bad, with just the dank wear of
her why her hair smelled like maple syrup; it was pretty strong," rust and and dirt, while others have
recounts Rich Chapple, who noticed the sweet odor from bed at mid- notorious smells.
night.
A recent NY1 report pointed
out a particular station, the 51st Veronique Ferval, director of Rayda Vega, a perfumer at
St./Lexington Ave. stop on the 6, E fragrance development for Quest International, says New York
and V, where a specific under- International Flavors and is a particularly odorific city
ground hallway besieges thousands Fragrances, says that no matter how because of the volume of garbage
of passengers daily with an odor much we complain, New York's produced daily.
that smells like something between subways smell better than those in
a clogged toilet and a dead body. Paris, where "there is more of a "No other city in the United
scent of sweat and perfumes on the States has the amount of garbage
The MTA says the odor is the Metro because there is no air condi- put out in the street for pickup,"
result of a broken water pump that tioning. At the same time, people's observes Veda. "This gives New
has left standing water to collect in hygiene here is also better com- York a very 'ripe' smell after 10 at
an elevator shaft for at least a year. pared to Europe, so often there are night, except on Saturday night,
The agency said they would fix it clean and subtle fragrances on the when the garbage is saved up for
about a month ago, but the stink is train. Sometimes you can smell Sunday."
still there. A similar smell can be people's detergent."
found in certain corners of the Ferval says this kind of garbage
Union Square station. When I went to investigate smell is particularly bad during the
many of the other subway smells, summer, when New York's humid
An unscientific poll of people I most struck me as sort of mundane; climate makes it more susceptible
know revealed that almost every- the usual choking sweetness out- to odors hanging in the air, leaving
one has a gripe against a particular- side Perfumania, the pleasant sugar heavy, pungent aromas to exacer-
ly smelly subway station. I'm told and honey smell of the street bate and fester and intensify. But
that walking towards the R on the around bakeries and the noxious she notes that there are always fra-
Canal St. station is putrid, the industrial smell of mechanic shops grance respites.
Brooklyn Borough Hall station along 3rd Avenue in Brooklyn;
reeks of dirt-infused bleach and that paint thinner, hydraulic fuel, gaso- "There are extreme negative
several 7 stations in Queens are line. Even the steam coming out of smells, but New York also has
plagued by the smell of pigeon shit. the grates in the street and the burn- extreme positives," says Ferval.
"It is as if the same sandwich has ing smell of electricity near some She says that the city's good smells
been rotting there since the dawn of manholes weren't so unusual. can be characterized as "sugary" as
time," says one friend of the opposed to Paris' "buttery." She
uptown platform on the 125th St. Some were bad but kind of advocates a walk along the West
A, B, C and D. weirdly reassuring. The air pushed Side Highway for the breeze from
out of vents near hospitals and the the ocean, or a stroll through
There are, though, some neutral interiors of buses on cold, stormy Chelsea Market to cleanse palates
odors and even good ones in the days (wet wool meets sweat). The of foul scents.
subway. The 16th St. entrance to incense burning at Union Square is
the 14th St. F stop always smells of awful, but it's always there, as is the Upon returning home to Omaha
freshly cooked bacon, while a "fan- smell of hookah pipes near the or Dubuque, it's likely many
tastic chocolate smell" lingers Middle Eastern places along tourists tell their friends about the
around the Bond/Hoyt St. and Steinway St. in Astoria and the intensity of the smells in the five
Carroll St. stations. grease vents outside the diner on boroughs. The rich, heavy aromas
101st and Broadway. may, in fact, be one of the reasons
that they think the city's fun to visit

"but I wouldn't want to live there."
For many of us, it is our sense of
smell that orients us and gives
streets distinction and sense of
place.
And maybe because of this,

when I'm out in the country, breath-
ing fresh air that smells vaguely
like pine and away from the heavy
city, I often can't sleep.
Deoderants & Cancer
DECEMBER 5, 2005
F YOU'VE CHECKED OUT THE BACK OF YOUR ANTIPERSPIRANT LATELY, antiperspirants and shaving?
I you might have noticed something different: new labels required by
the Food and Drug Administration. They point out that antiperspirants "Absolutely not," McGrath
are "drugs" containing "aluminum" ingredients that's what stops the says. "Breast cancer has existed
sweat. since Hippocrates. But when you
plot the sales of antiperspirant
The aluminum is also what concerns some people, including Dr. deodorants with the incidence of
Kris McGrath. breast cancer in the United States,
they both have grown in almost a
"I personally feel there is a very strong correlation between the parallel fashion."
underarm hygiene habits and breast cancer," McGrath tells CBS News
correspondent Sharyl Attkisson. It's not conclusive proof, but
enough, McGrath says, to call for
McGrath, an immunologist and instructor at Northwestern large-scale studies.
University, has been intrigued by a potential breast cancer link since
medical school. Rumors of a link between
antiperspirants, shaving and breast
It got personal when his wife a frequent shaver and antiperspirant cancer have circulated for years,
user got breast cancer. but had been written off as an urban
myth by most people including the
"She was diagnosed with breast cancer in 1987," McGrath says. FDA's Web site which calls it a
"She died in 1989." "...false...scary stories..." CBS
News tried to ask the FDA whether
People who don't believe in a link point to this 2002 study that finds the case really is closed, but they
no connection. wouldn't let Attkisson interview
any of their experts.
But it didn't take into account how often a woman shaved and used
antiperspirant, which McGrath considered crucial. So he did his own Instead, they seemed to shift
study of breast cancer patients and found this: The more these women from the "myth" status, telling CBS
shaved and used antiperspirants, the sooner they got breast cancer. News: "FDA is aware of concerns
that antiperspirant use (in conjunc-
Is he trying to say all cases of breast cancer could be linked to tion with underarm shaving) may
be associated with increased risk of a link can't be conclusively ruled

developing breast cancer. FDA out. But they say there's no reason
continues to search scientific litera- to throw out your antiperspirant in
ture for studies examining this pos- fear. Read the Cancer Institute's
sible adverse drug effect. fact sheet.
Unfortunately, there are many pub-
lications that discuss the issue, but McGrath advises his patients to
very few studies in which data has consider the uncertainties. At least
been collected and analyzed. one of them thinks the government
Overall, the studies (containing ought to go public and admit the
data) are inconclusive in determin- breast cancer antiperspirant myth
ing whether antiperspirants, in any might not be a myth after all.
way, contribute to the development
of breast cancer. FDA hopes that "I think the government should
definitive studies exploring breast take an honest stand and say if
cancer incidence and antiperspirant they're not sure, so that women
use will be conducted in the near have the right to know and that they
future." can make their own choice," says
Michelle Bibergal.
The billion-dollar antiperspi-
rant industry says the products are
undeniably safe.
"Has this issue been definitive-

ly laid to rest?" Attkisson asks John
Bailey, a director of cosmetic
chemistry as the cosmetic toiletry
and fragrance association.
"I think the products are safe

and I think that the best science is
being applied to making that deter-
mination that they're safe," Bailey
says.
"But you're not saying yes or

no," Attkisson says.
"It's not a yes or no answer,"

Bailey replies.
The National Cancer Institute

and American Cancer Society agree
Phthalates & Their Dangers
DECEMBER 11, 2005
NE YEAR AGO, MICHELE HAMMOND AND HER HUSBAND, JEREMIAH fessor of environmental chemistry
O HOLLAND, sat together at their dining room table, contemplating
some frightening lab results for their two children.
at Stockholm University in Sweden
and one of the first scientists to
alert the world to the threat posed
Their son, Rowan, a rambunctious, towheaded toddler, had some of by PBDEs.
the highest levels of flame retardants in his blood of anyone measured
on Earth. "If in fact you have exposure
the first few years that is exceeding
And their daughter, 5-year-old Mikaela, was close behind. the parents' exposures, this may
have this may have implications for
The question at the time was whether these children were unique: brain development."
Did something in their home or life lead to such unusual numbers, or
might most children have higher-than-expected levels? A year later The Berkeley fam-
ily was part of a newspaper investi-
It is hard to say, because even today Rowan and Mikaela remain the gation of our "body burden" a
only two young children in the United States to have been tested for chemical legacy, picked up from
such compounds. our possessions and imprinted in
our brain, blood and fat cells.
A year later, however, new exposure estimates and more data about
these chemicals in our environment make the answer clear: They are not Scientists suspect synthetic
alone. chemicals plastic, flame retardants,
pesticides, even the chemical pre-
The science suggests that for this flame retardant, polybrominated cursors for nonstick frying pans
diphenyl ethers, or PBDEs, levels in children throughout the United taint the blood of everyone alive
States are higher and possibly much higher than their parents. today.
And parents, particularly in California, already have the most flame- It's the result, they say, of near-
retardant blood in the world, so high the most-exposed are near levels ly 50 years of reliance on synthetic
causing fertility and sexual defects in lab rats, according to one analy- chemistry without a full under-
sis. standing of how these compounds
interact with our environment.
"What we are seeing here is very serious," said Ake Bergman, pro-
The amount of these chemicals for years in the body and cause Some recent findings:
in our bodies is vanishingly small; brain, thyroid, kidney and liver
so minuscule scientists had trouble damage. Levels have leapt expo- Children likely ingest 100 times the
seeing it just 10 years ago. Now nentially in humans during the past PBDEs their parents do, based on a
researchers suspect some of the 20 years, doubling and then dou- Canadian model published this
compounds impair our health. bling again. summer.
The Oakland Tribune tested the Banning compounds: Breast milk is a major pipeline for
Hammond-Hollands for traces of these chemicals. Many of the
five metals and four classes of Europe banned the source of PBDEs concentrate in fat.
chemicals: PBDEs; their banned compounds in 2001. California and
cousins, the polychlorinated several other states followed start- Using estimates published ear-
biphenyls, or PCBs; plastic addi- ing in 2003. lier this year, 21/2-year-old Rowan,
tives known as phthalates; and an who still breast-feeds, likely gets
exotic chemical family, perfluori- The amount of PBDEs in 130 ppb PBDEs from his mother
nated acids, used to make Gore- Michele and Jeremiah was fairly every day. Not all gets absorbed.
Tex, Teflon and other nonstick and normal for Californians about 100 For newborns, the number would
waterproof products. parts-per-billion. A typical level in be even higher though with the
the United States is closer to 40 effects of PBDEs so uncertain and
The investigation found all but ppb, but in California with stricter the benefits of breast milk so clear,
arsenic in their hair, blood or urine. fire safety laws the norm sits closer scientists strongly urge mothers to
In many cases, the children's con- to 80 ppb, according to recent state continue breast-feeding their
centrations were higher than the data. babies.
parents'. But the PBDE results con-
fronting the Hammond-Hollands at For perspective, a bucket of And although researchers see
the dinner table went far beyond popcorn salted at such a concentra- big differences between the body
what even scientists expected. tion has just one-third of a grain of burdens of breast-fed and non-
salt. breast-fed infants, that difference
PBDEs are a family of chemi- diminishes rapidly as they grow
cals astonishingly effective at slow- The two children, however, and is gone completely by their
ing fire in foam and plastic. landed in a class by themselves. teens, Birnbaum said.
Mikaela measured 500 ppb. Rowan
They permeate everything from had nearly 700 ppb. House dust is a huge reservoir
seat cushions and drapes to carpet of PBDEs, for reasons not fully
padding, TV sets and computer cas- For Jeremiah and Michele, understood. And young children
ings. National demand was 36,500 news that those figures may not be such as Mikaela and Rowan ingest
tons in 2001, nearly 80 percent of unusual comes as relief. For the rest twice as much dust as adults,
the world market and almost double of us, scientists say, the information according to EPA estimates.
demand in 1990. becomes a concern of unknown but Adjusted for their smaller bodies,
worrisome proportions. that means children take in nearly
The fear among scientists is 10 times the PBDEs as their elders,
that they act like PCBs, the banned pound for pound.
electrical insulator known to linger
Levels continue to rise, particularly

in the United States. Seventeen
years ago, the typical level in the
nation was 5 ppb. Samples from the
late 1990s put California's norm at
42 ppb, half its present-day mark.
In May, scientists reported that

two adults picked at random in
New York had the highest concen-
trations ever found in a human: one
at 4,000 ppb, the other at almost
10,000 ppb.
Those levels, particularly for the

highest exposed, exceed concentra-
tions harming animals.
A study published last month

by Tom McDonald, a former toxi-
cologist with the California
Environmental Protection Agency,
examined the body burdens of ani-
mals showing defects from PBDE
exposure.
He concluded rats start to see

impaired male fertility and ovary
cell development at 230 ppb,
behavioral change at 660 ppb and
dampened thyroid activity at 5,700
ppb.
Smell of Panic a Natural High
DECEMBER 13, 2005
OW,I WONDER, COULD YOU BOTTLE A FRAGRANCE WHICH CAPTURED nozzles and overhead-suspended
H THE VERY ESSENCE OF SWINGING LONDON? Let's not worry about
why - though the news that there is now a range of air fresheners that
hoses, it doesn't matter which side
your petrol cap is on any more. If
reproduce the peculiar smells of the Japanese city of Osaka does offer a you get the wrong side the hose will
kind of precedent. If there were to be an aroma that summed up our still reach. Add to this the fact that
bustling capital, what would it be? The smell of a day-old Happy Meal the other half of London's motorists
being run over by an approaching District Line train? A faint of hint of know this only too well and you get
shoe-borne dog-shit that seems to follow you around? Eau de bendy the classic combination of need-
bus? A heady mix of the three? lessly long queues and lots of pent-
up anger. Can you smell that anger
Perhaps, but for me the quintessence of the urban experience will now? Can you smell it on me?
always be the ongoing clash between raw aggression and unbridled That's because I dabbed a bit of
doziness. For this reason, my preferred scent has to be the intoxicating unleaded behind each ear this
bouquet of freshly panic-bought petrol. Here the phrase "panic-bought" morning.
serves the same purpose "line-caught" does when used to describe sea
bass: an evocative detail which speaks in the latter instance of bearded I know what you're thinking.
old salts in an open boat, and in the former of an early evening fist-fight You're thinking that all petrol
between a marketing consultant and a taxi driver on a fluorescent-green smells the same: panic-bought,
forecourt. And why is such a fragrance so Londony? Because in impulse-bought, London-sourced,
London, all petrol is purchased this way. even the cheap stuff you get in
Spain. And you're right. London
Of course it's not strictly accurate to call it panic-buying when it could just as easily be evoked by
happens every day. At the weekend police were once again urging the sharply contrasting fragrances
London drivers not to panic-buy their fuel in response to the Bunce- of expensive coffee and free news-
field fire, but I think this was simply a case of crisis-induced police-hys- paper, or the sweet tang of gum
teria. They fear that panic-buying will, if unchecked, lead to shortages, chewed by the previous occupant of
and so they panic. They deploy junior officers to a nearby petrol station a minicab, or the particular aroma
to investigate. There they find a 20-car queue and people punching each of a small corner shop into which
other and think: aha! Panic-buying! Just as we feared! But this is not no more than three schoolchildren
panic-buying. are ever allowed at one time. In
truth, I'm just trying to avoid the
The true reasons for the phenomenon are manifold, but chief among obvious answer, which is piss.
them is a failure on the part of roughly half of London's motorists to
realise that in a modern, 16-pump forecourt, with its free-swivelling
Fake Fragrance Problem
DECEMBER 13, 2005
BRAZIL, THE STATE UNIVERSITY OF CAMPINAS, UNICAMP, HAS DEVEL- the original perfumes' composi-
I N
OPED A NEW TEST to identify pirate of fake perfumes, a problem that
costs the industry millions in lost revenues every year.
tion", he said.
Currently the identification of

Unicamp's Chemical Institute has developed the test around very authentic cosmetic products is
simple principles that provide accurate results in the space of just two restricted to security tags and labels
minutes, the Brazilian Toiletry, Perfumery and Cosmetic Association, One of the leading providers of
ABIHPEC reports. such solutions is US-based firm
Microtrace.
Fake cosmetics is a growing problem of global proportions. In
Europe alone, EU customs authorities have reported that seizures of It provides tagging solutions for
counterfeit cosmetic products, including fragrances, jumped by 800 per a variety of consumer industries,
cent in the period 2003 - 2003, with the main hubs for the trafficking of including cosmetics and toiletries
such products found in Eastern Europe and China. manufacturers. Its Microtaggant
Identification Particle technology
Unicamp researcher Rodrigo Catharino, who has headed up the relies on microscopic encoded par-
project at the university's Sao Paulo-based research facilities, says that ticles, incorporated into the packag-
the test takes a snapshot of the perfume's composition, revealing the ing to act as virtual fingerprints'.
outstanding characteristics of the compound.
Although this has proved to be
He adds that all that has to then be done is to compare the results one of the most effective solutions
with the original formulas. Replicating the exact composition of a fra- in the fight against cosmetics pira-
grance is a task that few counterfeit producers would have the resources cy, it is not the cheapest solution.
to carry out. Catherino says that other packaging
identification systems for cosmetic
The scientist believes the test might allow authorities in Brazil, as products have not proved to be a
well as internationally, to inspect the perfumes easily and without hav- deterrent, as pirate products have
ing to make a considerable investment, something that has proved diffi- been developed to even copy intri-
cult to do until now. cate holographic safety stamps.
"The test is performed with a mass spectrometer, a device already in Although the research on the
use to prove the origin of several products. All we need is a data base of detection system was completed
this summer, Catharino says that he

wants to work towards making this
a popular way to fight the problem
of fake fragrance products, ulti-
mately benefiting both consumers
and manufacturers.
Criticism of Fragrance
DECEMBER 19, 2005
EE,I WAS SEARCHING desperately for two things a gift for my wife There's Coty Wild Musk, just in
S and something to mock when I saw an ad for a new perfume. case you're into oxen.
Something stinks today and, lucky for me, it's this column. And if you're fleeing a crime
scene, don't leave a whiff of DNA
It's Carlos Santana, a scent inspired by the Grammy-winning gui- by Bijan.
tarist -- and probably not the distinctive aroma that surrounded him at
the original Woodstock. Some names are packed with
emotion.
Gosh, I thought, what woman wouldn't want to smell like an aging
rocker? Like, um, Emotion.
Then I did some online shopping and realized Santana is hardly the Others are perplexing.
only celebrity or the only odd choice on a perfume bottle.
Jean Louis Scherrer offers
I found fragrances from Baryshnikov and James Bond, Britney Immense. To my surprise, it doesn't
Spears and Barbie Super Model (the last two are different people). come with a roller.
Heck, there's even a SpongeBob SquarePants scent. Mmmm, is that And Calvin Klein dreamed up
a really hot babe or another serving of lox? Eternity Moment, which seems like
a contradiction until you realize he
I mean, to steal a term from perfumer Christian Lacroix, it's Bazar. also offers a perfume that's actually
called Contradiction.
It's all about image, of course. That's why you'll find scents called
Rhumba, Samba and Mambo. But no one's ever going to say, "Gee, you Some scents go together well
smell great. Is that Square Dance?" like Madness and Mania, or
Chemistry and Equation.
But because perfumers must fill a ton of tiny bottles, some
inevitably go astray with product names. Then again, I'd buy Fracas or
Fragile, but not both.
One firm makes Alien ideal if you're dating E.T.
I was taken aback by Caesars, a
perfume from casino-operator has plenty of that.

Caesars World. I bet it's a subtle
blend of florals and tobacco smoke. Instead, I'm torn between Amor
Amor and Anais Anais.
Or am I thinking about the
man's fragrance someone dubbed She's remarked several times
Cigar? on my tendency to repeat myself,
so either would be perfect.
Another surprise was Doulton,
the scent rolled out by china-maker A very favorite Chaos, reminis-
Royal Doulton. You mean my wife cent of the mess in Iraq.
could smell like a gravy boat?
Wow! Just perfect.
With a few names, I'm just sus-

picious.
Does Elizabeth Arden's Fifth

Avenue really capture the essence
of bus fumes?
And a perfume named for ten-

nis player Maria Sharapova sup-
posedly includes Wimbledon grass.
I'd be more impressed if the little
bottle grunts when you spray it.
For a few products, I'd like to

help with their ads:
Puma Man: For guys who

should shave more.
Swiss Army: It smells kinda

neutral.
And Quorum: So you can get it

on at your next council meeting.
None of this helps with my gift

selection, though.
I'd buy Attitude, but my wife

Breast Cancer & DEP
DECEMBER 24, 2005
SK A MAN TO KEEP A SECRET, and he'll announce to everyone he them a shower and Speed Stick,
A meets that there is something he can't talk about. and they should be good to go in
most circumstances.
Men do not do subtle.
The only time men should
Tell a man that the suggested dress attire is laid back and casual, and resort to outside aromatic agents is
he'll show up in flip-flops and a Speedo. in situations where they have not
had a chance to shower and their
Give a guy a couple of beers and a dance floor, and what comes to natural state may violate human-
mind is electrocution. rights or chemical-weapons
treaties.
So when marketers began hyping various men's body sprays, wash-
es and lotions as being irresistible to women, well, the male response What is ironic about the current
has been predictable: male obsession with fragrance-iza-
tion is that it may mask the natural
They've been buying the stuff by the vat, rationalizing that if a little scents that can actually attract
bit of these fragrances will help you get a girl, then crop-dusting your- women.
self down with a lot of the stuff will help you get a lot of girls.
From what I have been reading,
This is why more and more men are walking around these days our bodies produce these odors
smelling like they have been dragged through wild flowers, dipped in called pheromones. And
the ocean and then waterboarded in rain-forest fruit pulp. pheromones which are kind of
complicated but seem to work like
Men just do not do well with fragrances, which is why they should airborne Spanish Fly can make us
probably not be allowed to purchase anything from the scent family appear appealing to members of the
without a prescription. opposite sex.
Nor, should they be permitted to apply anything from the scent fam- A couple of key things to keep
ily to their bodies with the possible exception of foot powder - without in mind about pheromones are:
proper supervision.
Unless one has undergone
No, men are much better off teetering along the edge of funky. Give bloodhound tracking training, a
human can't consciously smell

them.
And, in terms of appealing,

we're talking about initially appeal-
ing.
All the pheromones in the

world aren't going to help if you're
middle-aged and still living with
mom, or your pick-up line includes
stamp collecting.
Another interesting thing about

the attraction power of pheromones
is that we usually smell best to a
person whose genetically based
immunity to disease differs most
from our own.
Which, call me sentimental,

does kind of take the romance out
of it.
Cleaner Air without Fragrance
50 MILLION PEOPLE UNITED STATES suffer from It is estimated that more than 5.2
A S MANY AS
allergic disease (AMAI).
IN THE
million [with MCS] may lose jobs
as a result (Adams).
People Who Report Reactions:
For the average person, breath-
In 1998, it was estimated that 26.3 million Americans have been ing in fragrances from perfumes,
diagnosed with asthma in their lifetime ( ALA of Texas ). colognes, hair sprays, deodorants,
air fresheners and/or cleaners can
The Institute of Medicine placed fragrance in the same category as just be a little annoying, ". ..but for
second hand smoke in triggering asthma in adults and school age chil- a growing number of others, these
dren (FPINVA, By Design). smells, called 'emissions of volatile
organic compounds,' can be a form
Up to 72% of asthmatics report their asthma is triggered by fra- of torment that throws their bodies
grance. Asthmatics and others that are negatively impacted by fragrance into reactive overdrive. One whiff
often have difficulties working, obtaining medical care, and going about of a chemical cocktail...can result
activities of daily living because of others' use of scented products ( in a vast array of debilitating symp-
FPINVA). toms" (Ephraim).
Approximately 12.6% of the population suffers from multiple "Even if the general population
chemical sensitivity (MCS), a condition in which they experience reac- isn't likely to suffer acute effects
tions from exposure to low concentrations of common chemicals..." from exposure to fragrances, there
(Adams). [MCS is] marked by multiple symptoms in multiple organ are long-term chronic health effects
systems (usually the neurological, immune, respiratory, skin, 'GI,' connected to these chemicals that
and/or musculoskeletal) that recur chronic-ally in response to multiple we don't fully understand yet," says
chemical exposures. MCS Symptoms commonly include difficulty [Carrie] Loewenherz [an industrial
breathing, sleeping and/or concentrating, memory loss, migraines, nau- hygienist for the New York
sea, abdominal pain, chronic fatigue, aching joints and muscles, and Committee for Occupational Safety
irritated eyes, nose, ears, throat and/or skin. In addition, some with and Health] (Lyman).
MCS show impaired balance and increased sensitivity not just to odors
but also to loud noises, bright lights, touch, extremes of heat and cold, Perfume Information:
and electromagnetic fields (MCRR).
Perfume formulations changed
sometime around the late 70s and include adult and child cancers, mally (LA).
early 80s. Today, they are approxi- numerous neurological disorders,
mately 95-100% synthetic (man- immune system weakening, By all accounts, the fragrance
made) (Pills, Featured Author). autoimmune disorders, asthma, industry is primarily self-regulated.
Using crude oil or turpentine oil as allergies, infertility, miscarriage, Safety tested before marketing is
the base material, synthetics are and child behavior disorders not required and ingredients used in
usually derived from chemical including learning disabilities, fragrance formulas do not have to
reactions (Bridges). mental retardation, hyperactivity be disclosed even to regulatory
and ADD (attention deficit disor- agencies. In general fragrance is a
Perfumes, colognes, and many ders} (Pressinger and Sinclair}. very low priority among regulatory
ot~er scented products contain an agencies and there is little monitor-
abundance of harmful chemicals, In 1991 a study performed by ing of compliance or enforcement
many of which are listed on the the EPA] Identification of Polar of laws that are in place. There is a
EPA's Hazardous Waste List. They Volatile Organic Compounds in self-regulatory system in place
also include numerous carcino- Consumer Products and Common within the fragrance industry.
genic chemicals, neurotoxins, res- Microenvironments, found numer- Compliance with recommendations
piratory irritants, solvents, aldehy- ous chemicals commonly used in are voluntary and rarely monitored
des, hundreds of untested and fragrance products, including, (FPINVA, Facts and Fiction).
unregulated petrochemicals, phtha- among others: acetone; benzalde-
lates (which can act as hormone hyde; benzyl acetate; benzyl alco- The fragrance industry has tra-
disrupters}, narcotics, and much hol; camphor; ethanol; ethyl ditionally been a very secretive
more (Pitts, Featured}. acetate; limonene; linalool; methyl- industry. For decades secrecy was
ene chloride, one or all of which, or required to protect fragrance for-
By design, fragrances are com- in combination with one another, mulas from being copied by others.
posed of materials that Quickly get cause, when inhaled, "central nerv- Fragrance formulas are considered
into the air. Once in the air, these ous system disorders, dizziness, 'trade secrets' and do not have to be
materials pose serious health con- nausea, incoordination, slurred revealed to anyone, including regu-
cerns for many with asthma, aller- speech, drowsiness, irritation to the latory agencies. The secrecy of the
gies, migraines, chronic lung dis- mouth, throat, eyes, skin, lungs and industry has lead to tremendous
ease, and other health conditions GI tract, kidney damage, headache, problems in terms of regulation,
(FPINVA, By Design}. respiratory failure, ataxia, and monitoring, and impact on those
fatigue, among other symptoms and that have problems from fragrance
Approximately 95% of chemi- illnesses. " Material Safety Data (FPINVA, By Design).
cals used in fragrances are synthet- Sheets on each chemical confirm
ic compounds derived from petro- these findings (Dewey). The Cosmetic Regulations state
leum (USHR}. that within 10 days after starting to
Fragrance Regulations: sell a product, a list of ingredients
Petroleum based chemicals are must be provided. 'Fragrance' is
being found to cause significant More than 80 percent of the considered a specific ingredient,
attritional effects to the nervous chemical ingredients in these prod- and no disclosure of the potentially
system and immune system after ucts have never been tested to see if hundreds of chemicals within the
prolonged exposure. Illnesses iden- they are poisonous to humans. fragrance is required (QGBS).
tified in the medical research Some have been tested only mini-
Phone & Smells
JANUARY 5, 2006
OVE OVER RING TONES AND VIDEO TONES, 'COZ SMELL TONES are the
M next generation ringtones. Instead of a ring, your mobile phone
could soon be emitting odours when you receive an incoming call or
SMS.
The technology is already available in Japan, where charms attached

to the phone emit fragrances like jasmine, wild berries, English tea and
Indian curry.
The technology releases a burst of fragrance for five seconds after

the arrival of a call or SMS and the inventors claim that it relaxes the
users.
The smell tones can even be personalised. The most popular choice
of smell tone for the boss seems to be that of rotten cabbage!
Stand-up comedian Vir Das is tickled by the idea of smell tones, "I
would love to get it. Though, I don't know if it would work each time,
specially if you keep rotten cabbage for your boss and you get a call in
a crowded room."
Actress Archana Puran Singh opts for foodie smells for her mother,
"I'd keep onions for my mother, since she reminds me of food."
To VJ Cyrus Sahukar, it is the smell of skunk, burnt rubber and

burnt sausages that he would keep for his enemies. "I love the idea of
attacking people without them even knowing about it, by giving them a
bad smell tone. But for all the people I like, I'd keep lemongrass, apples
and cinammon."
Stealing Rare Plants
JANUARY 16, 2006
TOP SCIENTIST HAS BEEN JAILED FOR SMUGGLING MORe than 100 Airport, but denied doing it for
A "priceless" orchids -the world's most desired flower -into Britain. commercial gain despite the thriv-
ing black market.
Pharm-aceutical researcher Dr Sian Lim, 32, was caught smuggling
some of the rarest species of the beautiful, fragrant and delicate He claimed he had been offered
plant into Britain from his native Malaysia. the plants for sale in Malaysia and
that he only brought them back to
The illegal trade, dubbed 'orchidelirium', threatens to destroy some Britain with him at the last moment
species entirely. Thousands of pounds can be exchanged for each of the because the climate there was too
flowers admired for their sensuous shape and heady scent. hot.
Amongst the flowers recovered was one species that only grows in But after a trial at Isleworth
small numbers in a remote area of a national park in Sarawak in Crown Court, Dr Lim's claims were
Malaysia. rejected by Judge Richard
McGregor Johnson who jailed him
Six of the flowers the most spectacular of the group are so rare they for four months.
are on the brink of extinction and can only be found on the slopes of
Mount Kinabalu on the island of Borneo. The Judge told Lim: "I am satis-
fied you did bring in these orchids
Two of the flowers were only discovered in 1997 in the remote with a view to commercial gain. It
Indonesian island of Sulawesi and are believed to be extinct because of is essential that the courts make it
illegal collection. They are so rare that the orchid expert at Kew admit- plain that such behaviour for gain
ted he had never even seen one. will not be tolerated in order to dis-
courage other who might be tempt-
In all 126 specimens seized from Dr Lim fall into the CITES' "Cate- ed to follow in your footsteps."
gory A" which means they are banned from all trade.
He accused the doctor of having
A renowned collector, Dr Lim grows rare orchids in two greenhous- a "cavalier attitude" to the regula-
es in the garden of his home in Putney, south west London, and exhibits tions and added: "I do not accept
at international shows. your evidence in its entirety."
He admitted 13 charges of smuggling rare orchids into Heathrow Orchid biologist Dr David
Roberts, of the Royal Botanic the world." Lim, who is head of research
Gardens, Kew, said after the case: and development at Medpharm Ltd
"Illegal trade can push some rare Rejecting Dr Lim's claims, Mr - described as a "spin-off" company
orchids towards extinction. Connolly said that since June 2003 from Kings College, London
he had been issued with 399 CITES University - claimed that when he
"Many orchids are threatened permits to import 8,980 plants - completed the CITES permit appli-
through habitat destruction, but 7,932 of which were actually cations, he simply used the
some, often the rarest, are also at imported and that the purpose given Malaysian export permits as a tem-
risk from over collecting for inter- on each application form was plate and was unaware the "T" in
national trade. Illegal trade is rapid- "trade." the purpose box stood for "Trade."
ly pushing those species towards
extinction." Lim had sold plants at various He claimed he did not trade in
international orchid shows, includ- orchids and the fact that his name
Dominic Connolly, prosecuting, ing those in London and Newbury, appeared on some of the show liter-
explained that because wild orchids acting for Creative Orchids or ature was because he acted for
are now an endangered species they Orchid Inn. friends living in other countries. He
are covered by the Convention on said he was not employed by either
International Trade in Endangered Mr Connolly said the number of Creative Orchids, Far East
Species (CITES) under which most plants imported was consistent with Agriculture or Orchid Inn. Lim, of
trade is banned or regulated with commercial use and not personal Oakhill Road, Putney, said that his
special permits. collection. hobby helped to relieve stress.
Mr Connolly told the court: After the plants were seized at The international trade in
"The international trade in orchids Heathrow they were taken to Kew orchids has grown rapidly in the
is a multi-million dollar industry, Gardens for inspection. past 20 years, and now involves up
but the majority of this trade is in to a billion of the plants a year. The
cultivated hybrid plants. Mr Connolly said: "It was vast majority of that is legal and has
immediately obvious that a signifi- made orchids the UK's most popu-
"Legal trade in orchids taken cant proportion of the consignment lar house plant. But the illegal trade
directly from the wild is very limit- was of wild origin for which no continues and although small by
ed with many countries banning permits had been obtained." comparison, does enormous envi-
their export. As a result there is an ronmental damage.
illegal trade and they are often He said it was impossible to put
offered for trade under the counter a value on the illegal plants as "rel- The Convention on
at orchid shows." evant experts have never heard of International Trade in Endangered
or seen this species offered for sale Species of wild Fauna and Flora
The orchids found by customs as mature plants." (CITES) is also known as the
officers in Lim's luggage at 'Washington Convention' after the
Heathrow when he flew in from He added: "Many of these place where it was negotiated in
Malaysia on June 2, 2004, included plants are essentially priceless as 1973.
"some of the most sought-after they are rarely offered for sale and
orchids in the history of orchid col- are worth as much as someone is The Convention is administered
lection - some of the most rare in prepared to pay for them." by the United Nations Environment
Programme (UNEP) and came into A third was P. gigantifolium,

force in 1975; since then 169 coun- readily identified by broad glossy
tries have signed up to the green leaves which can grow up to
Convention. 60cm long and 12cm wide. It grows
just in river gorges in the Sulawesi,
Orchids are found all over the Indonesia. Only discovered in
world but about 7O% are found in 1997, it is now thought to be extinct
the tropics. There are some 25,000 in its original locality due to over
species of orchids. collecting and may be extinct in the
wild.
One of the plants confiscated
by Customs included P. Dr Roberts added: "I was par-
(Paphiopedilum) rothschildianum, ticularly concerned to see
named after the eminent Victorian Paphiopedilum gigantifolium, an
orchid grower Baron Ferdinand de orchid I had never seen before, as
Rothschild. Of all the species in the this species was only described new
genus Paphiopedilum this is one of to science in 1997."
the rarest in nature.
"The plants now belong to
Despite extensive searching for Customs. If and when they are
over 100 years it has been located handed over to Kew we will be in
only in a small number of sites on touch with the likely countries of
Mount Kinabalu in Borneo, origin to determine the future of the
Malaysia. plants."
Another was P. sanderianum,

one of the most striking of all
orchids and easily recognisable by
its long drooping petals which can
grow to a length of more than a
metre. It was first discovered in
Borneo in 1885 but did not survive
long in cultivation, probably due to
its very specific habitat require-
ments.
In the wild it grows on steep

limestone cliffs in areas that are
shaded for most of the day. It was
rediscovered in 1978. It is only
known from a national park in
Borneo.
Axe & Its Smells
JANUARY 17, 2006
HAT HISSING YOU HEAR EVERY MORNING BEFORE SCHOOL ISNT A This isnt the first time a prod-
T CLUTCH OF SNAKES. Its the smelly sound of the latest, cant-miss
chick magnet concoctions male body spray.
uct has preyed on the insecurities of
young adulthood. It doesnt take
much of a memory to remember the
The names change. Even the smells change. pungent promises of Hai Karate
(Be careful how you use it!)
But adolescent desperation is depressingly constant. Canoe, British Sterling and Old
Spice. Certainly any product that an
If youre no longer in touch with the hormone-drenched teen years, old sea salt could slather on and
its possible you havent heard about the trend but theres no way you still get the girl had to be effective.
couldnt have smelled it.
Its likely if there was a caveman
Walk down a school hallway, roller rink or mall hangout, and it hawking a fragrance called T.rex,
hangs as heavily as the fear of rejection before prom night. A not-so- there was a market for it.
subtle aroma, sort of fruity, sort of gym-socksy like the time you left
your lunch-bag and gym shorts in the back window of the Datsun for a According to The Washington
week. Intriguing at first whiff, downright nauseating as you get closer. Post, Axe emerged a generation
Well, you know the old saying: One mans smell is another mans stink. ago as Lynx, a European product
that festooned the dance halls of
In Fayetteville, that smell is most likely Voodoo, a variation of the Europe with its particular pungent
body spray Axe. Its the most popular of the sprays, according to local smell.
merchants and consistently empty shelf spaces in megastores. Axe and
its competitors Tag and Bod Man have also found success in the young American men, still deep in the
military market. Old Spice tradition, werent ready
to embrace something as sissified
According to industry reports, Axes ascension locally mirrors its as body spray. They wore after-
national success. Last year, A.C. Nielsen reported, Axe passed tradi- shave, and a few might dab on a
tional mens fragrances Old Spice and Right Guard as the top mens cologne after hours.
deodorant.
That changed when product
How exactly it can be called deodorant is open to speculation. Its creator Unilever began a tongue-in-
more of an odor mask, sort of a Glade for the glandularly active. cheek campaign that featured hand-
some young guys having to fight Fayetteville mom Donna not with lust, but with headaches
off ravenous females because, pre- Tappendon. He sprays the under- and sniffles. Cumberland County
sumably, they were wearing Axe. arms, the neck, the back, the crotch. hasnt had to make such limita-
There are days he and his friends tions, school officials say, but they
Gillette released Tag about a smell like a French whore. try to limit the use of sprays to help
year later, with an even more those with allergies to perfume.
aggressive horde of females. The instructions on the cans
Researchers told them that teen back, just below the promise of a We havent had any reports of
guys liked the notion of having seductive, longer-lasting fra- crazed girls driven wild by the
crazed, beautiful women stalking grance, instruct users to hold the stuff, added communications
them did they really need to pay can about 6 inches from the body director Wanda McPhaul.
someone to tell them that? and spray all over.
The spray companies have
So, Tag took on Axe, and They also warn would-be Don competition. Shoe maker Adidas,
theyve waged a pungent campaign Juans not to spray anywhere near Cool Water, Curve all have joined
in the halls of Americas class- open flame, since the first ingredi- the fragrance bandwagon. There
rooms ever since. Both have been ent is alcohol, so forget about that are still the traditional colognes for
given away on college campuses, candle-lit romantic interlude. young adults. For those who really
including a shipment that found its want to go old-school, the stray
way to Fayetteville Technical Even the scent names reflect bottle of Hai Karate and James
Community College last year. their motives: Tag comes in a vari- Bond still pops up on eBay.
ety of scents, such as First Move,
The sprays have found a home After Hours and Lucky Day. You can still find Canoe, if you
among young males because of know where to look.
their ease of use and low price. It They all seem to work just fine
takes the funky edge off a pickup on TV. How do females in the real Theres no telling how long the
basketball game or long marching- world react? fad will last. Eventually this gener-
band practice. ation will realize what their Hai
A random survey of local high Karate-drenched dads found out:
Above all, its a can of hope for school girls reveals that the sprays The right girl doesnt come around
about the same price as a couple of have indeed been noticed, though for a can of low-priced spray.
manga comics. Even though most not universally appreciated. The
guys cant do much about their guys, they say, tend to believe that The years will go by, and the
looks, or height, or car, or whatever if a little of the stuff is good, a names will change.
the heck it is thats keeping the girls whole lot is better. And no matter
from kicking down the door, they what the advertisements say, good But the search for the sweet
can sure do something about how grooming habits seem to rank high- smell of success will endure.
they smell. er than a magic smell from any
spray can.
And brother, do they smell.
In some schools nationwide,
Every morning, my boy principals have had to ban the prod-
assumes the position, said ucts they were driving girls crazy
Perfume Allergy
FEBRUARY, 2006
says employers wont But the keen singer is back on

A TEENAGER WITH A RARE ALLERGY TO PERFUME
give her a job because of her condition. track now after winning North West
Female Vocalist 2005. She sang at
Kirsty Howard, 18, is desperate for work but every application she the Christmas lights switch-ons in
has sent in has been rejected. Stalybridge and Hyde and is also
making a name for herself as a
On her application forms she has to delcare that she suffers from a wedding singer.
life-threatening form of anaphylaxis.
She added: "I was really
Any contact with aerosol sprays leave her struggling to breathe and depressed about it for a while but
she needs to be rushed to hospital. then I just thought, its there now
and Im going to have to deal with
So far the teenager has had 16 attacks and was even forced to quit it. I cant lock myself in my room
her college drama course after other students allegedly sprayed perfume forever.
near her.
"Im concentrating on my
Kirsty, of Lordsfield Avenue, Ashton said: "In the end I just never singing for now and Im doing lots
went back. I was gutted I loved my course but it wasnt worth it. of weddings and dinners. I made it
through to the second round of the
"I was having attack after attack and spending up to two weeks in X-Factor and Ill be going back
hospital after each one. every year until I convince Simon
Cowell!"
"Since then Ive been trying to find a job, but its so difficult.
"Id love a job because I hate sitting around doing nothing. But Ive
applied for loads and not heard anything back. The only reason I can
think of is its because of the anaphylaxis."
After being diagnosed at 15, Kirsty had a tough time coming to

terms with her condition and admits being so depressed she didnt want
to leave the house.
Ban Fragrance in School
FEBRUARY 1, 2006
Washington - Wright said that any accommo-

dations made under the act were
financed at the local level.
ERFUME, COLOGNE, AFTERSHAVE AND DEODORANT ARE TEMPORARILY
P BANNED at the Twin Valley High School. The administration's letter con-
tinues, "We understand and appre-
On Friday, a teacher is believed to have suffered an allergic reaction ciate that in some cases this means
to some type of perfume, which required a trip to the emergency room. changing habits that are long stand-
ing, however, it is a necessary move
School officials quickly sent a letter to all parents, stating that "It is on our part at this time.
essential that for the time being, from this point forward and until fur-
ther notice, that no one wears any [perfume, aftershave, cologne or "And student(s) determined to
deodorant] to school or uses them in the building." be intentionally violating this ban
will be subject to disciplinary
"The basic intent of us sending the letter," said Principal Frank action which may include removal
Spencer, "was to stabilize the situation in the short-term. We're now from the school community for
working to find a solution. But to not do something would not have been specified periods of time."
responsible."
Students at Twin Valley High
Spencer is working with Superintendent Peter Wright. Wright said School Tuesday were largely sup-
that they are meeting with legal counsel early today. portive of the administration's ban.
"We're trying to see what kind of responsibilities we have to both "If wearing perfume is going to
employees and students," said Wright. hurt [the teacher], I'll give it up for
a few months," said Aysa Elliott,
"We want to be sure we're following the letter of the law," said 15. "She'd give it up for us."
Wright. "And we want to be realistic and fair about it."
Elliott said she had already pur-
Wright said he believed the teacher's health was protected under the chased new deodorant "just to be
Rehabilitation Act of 1973, which was designed to eliminate discrimi- safe."
nation on the basis of handicap for any program receiving federal
money. T.J. Szirbik, 16, disagreed. "It's
our civil right to wear deodorant,"

he said. "I think if a teacher can't
handle public conditions, she
shouldn't work in a public facility."
Sarah Waterman, 15, "could

really care less" about the ban.
"She's a wicked nice woman.

And it's only perfume and really
strong shampoos," said Waterman.
"It's only going to be for a short
time, anyway, until we can find a
way to maintain it."
Allen Gilbert, of the Vermont

Chapter of the American Civil
Liberties Union, said that a school
generally can regulate the behavior
of its students.
Softheads & Expensive Perfume
FEBRUARY 3, 2006
MAJESTY, WHICH COSTS $215,000 A BOTTLE, is the most "A lot of women now go to a
I MPERIAL
expensive perfume in the world. Would it smell as sweet at any other
price?
perfume shop and say, 'What's your
newest perfume the one that you
haven't shown anyone? I want it no
Actually, yes. Imperial Majesty is a limited edition of a Clive matter what it costs,'" says Virginie
Christian signature scent. Sold simply as No. 1, the fragrance is priced Morel, a spokeswoman for
at $2,150 an ounce. But the reason Imperial Majesty costs so much is the International Fragrance
that Christian, a British designer-turned-perfumer, poured 16.9 ounces Association, which has offices in
of No. 1 into a Baccarat crystal bottle, stuck a five-carat diamond into Brussels, Belgium and Geneva,
the 18-carat gold collar and unveiled it at Harrods in London and Switzerland. "Fragrances from the
Bergdorf Goodman in New York City this past holiday season. big houses have been tested a lot to
please the most amount of people,
Of the five bottles released for sale (the others were kept for and women don't want to look like
Christian's archives), three have sold. their next door neighbor. Do you?"
That's actually not as crazy as it sounds. There is a glut of new fra- "If you get a niche perfume,
grances being dumped on the market from not only perfume makers and you won't smell like anyone else,"
fashion houses, but also celebrities and movie stars--many of which she adds. "There's a demand for
scents have a shelf life as long or short as the celeb who introduced unique things, and it's a fact that
them. From Paris to Britney, there were over 500 fragrance launches in people are more willing to pay."
2005 alone. Feeling overwhelmed, people are not buying more per-
fumes, but they are willing to spend more on ones they like. According Elisabeth Noel Jones, a fra-
to The NPD Group, a Long Island-based market research company, the grance, cosmetics and hosiery
U.S. fragrance industry grossed $2.8 billion in sales in 2004, the last buyer at Bergdorf Goodman, agrees
year for which annual numbers exist, up only 1% over the prior year. that customers are increasingly
knowledgeable--and demanding--
"If you look at the fragrance market, the category has been fairly when it comes to perfume. "I'm
static in terms of growth. It hasn't grown enormously over the last few moving away from things that are
years," says Paul Austin of Quest International, a fragrance house that available at Barneys, Bendel,
has collaborated with such iconic brands as Herms, Yves St. Laurent, Bloomingdale's, Lord and Taylor,
Christian Dior and Karl Lagerfeld. Saks and Macy's," says Jones. "Our
customer is in the know, and she
doesn't want something that can be ylang-ylang flower from All perfumes listed are avail-
recognized walking down the Madagascar, Tahitian vanilla, able for sale at Bergdorf Goodman,
street." ancient Indian sandalwood, and except for Baccarat's Les Larmes
Florentine orris (ground iris root), Sacres de Thebes, which is avail-
In the perfume industry, which can cost hundreds or thou- able at Harrods.
Christian isn't the only vendor sands of dollars a pound.
smelling a profit. Last June, the Click here for the slide show.
Guerlain boutique on Champs Just in time for Fashion Week Want to track news by this author
Elyse in Paris launched a service in New York City, Forbes.com has or about this industry? Forbes
called Le Parfum Sur Mesure, a compiled a list of the Most Attache makes it easy. Click here.
personal consultation which takes Expensive Perfumes. To find out
between six months and a year and which perfumes were the priciest,
allows a customer to create her own we worked closely with Bergdorf
perfume with the help of the store's Goodman, whose cosmetics inven-
fragrance director. After that, no tory is legendary, and other upscale
one else can buy it, but Guerlain international department stores, fra-
will keep some in stock in case she grance houses and boutiques. Most
ever runs out. The cost? 30,000, or of the perfumes on our list are "par-
about $36,000. fums," which means they are pure
and concentrated, making for a
Even outside the rarified higher production cost. In addition,
department stores and boutiques of many of the perfumes listed come
New York, Paris and London, the in ornate or limited-edition bottles
fragrance industry is a powerful that contributed to the price,
force. The European fine fragrance whether they're made of Italian
sales forecast for 2004 was 4.1 Murano glass, like Bulgari's Pour
billion, or $4.9 billion, says Kate Femme, or have a diamond on the
Greene of Givaudan, which has neck, like No. 1.
developed fragrances for Ralph
Lauren (nyse: RL - news - people ), We listed the perfumes in order
Elizabeth Arden, Giorgio Armani of most expensive per bottle, not on
and Calvin Klein. a per-ounce basis. We did indicate
how many ounces come in each
But Austin estimates that the bottle, so you can do your own
high-end perfume market only con- price-per-ounce calculations.
stitutes about 1% of overall sales Finally, we did not include custom-
and warns that, "There isn't always order or by commission perfumes,
a direct relationship between the like Guerlain's Le Parfum Sur
price of a fragrance and the beauty Mesure, or Henry Dunay's Sabi,
of its impression." Of course, which at $30,000 an ounce would
sometimes, there is. It takes 200 certainly have made the list other-
very rare ingredients to make one wise.
drop of "No. 1," including the
Are Fragrant Compositions Copyrightable?
FEBRUARY 10, 2006
SCENT IS A WORK OF ART JUST LIKE A PAINTING OR A SYMPHONY, A A 1975 ruling had concluded that
A FRENCH COURT HAS RULED in a case seen as a major victory in the
battle against copycat fragrances.
perfume was a chemical mixture
but not a work of art like a novel.
The smell of major perfumes can now be protected. But in 2004 L'Oreal scored a
partial victory by getting a court to
After decades of failed attempts to copyright a particular perfume, conclude that "a fragrance is the
cosmetics giant L'Oreal finally persuaded the court that its perfumes creation of an original bouquet of
were entitled to the French droits d'auteur (authorial rights) that protect odorous products chosen for an aes-
their creators from imitation for 70 years. thetic goal, and thus constituting a
work of the mind".
"It's an important step, as until now perfume owners could only
fight against counterfeiters who imitated a name, the packaging or a per- But the court threw out the
fume bottle," said Denis Mongier du Sorbier, a lawyer for L'Oreal. case, saying that there was no proof
that the Bellure perfumes were
The company filed for charges against Dubai-based perfume firm, exact replicas of the L'Oreal origi-
Bellure, which distributes its perfumes from Belgium, after it discov- nals.
ered that the company was selling near-identical copies of 13 of its
major perfumes. Undeterr-ed, L'Oreal broke
down a copycat perfume into its
In the past, the big perfume houses have brought copycat companies constituent smells through chro-
to court on charges of unfair competition or brand imitation when pack- matographic analysis.
aging or names are almost identical. Recent brand imitations include
Chenal No 5, Samara instead of Samsara or Temperature instead of It found in the case of one per-
Farenheit. fume that 50 out of the 52 elements
were the same. Last month, the
But Bellure had changed the packaging and names sufficiently to court ruled that the "olfactory
avoid prosecution in these areas: L'Oreal's Tresor became Valeur, architecture" was almost identical,
Romance was sold under the name of Cheek to Cheek and Miracle and ordered Bellure to pay damages
became Pink Wonder. of 1.5 million euros (1 million).
Bellure has yet to say whether it
So L'Oreal decided to attack it on copying the smell of the perfume. will appeal.
The ruling was welcomed by

the industry's nez the perfume
maestros whose noses smell out
new fragrances. Sylvaine
Delacourte, of Guerlain, said: "We
put one to two years into creating a
new fragrance. I am a designer and
a nez, the guardian of Guerlain's
name and signature. This is a wel-
come result."
Diddy in Trouble Over Copyright?
MARCH 13, 2006
HOUGH HIS UNFORGIVABLE COLOGNE IS FLYING OFF THE SHELVES, Sean Hilderbrand's suit sought for
T "Diddy" Combs may soon be in legal trouble for infringing on the
trademark of another fragrance.
Diddy to stop using the label, to
recover his profits from the label
and unspecified damages.
According to the United States Patent & Trademark Office, Diddy
was denied the Unforgivable trademark because the cologne's name was Things have not been all bad for
too close to Unforgiven, a women's fragrance launched by French per- Diddy. As SOHH previously
fumer Jacques Evard. reported, the mogul is preparing a
return to reality TV. Diddy is set to
The document dated January 12, states, "The examining attorney produce the celebrity cooking
refuses registration under Trademark Act Section 2, because the miniseries, "Celebrity Cooking
[Unforgivable] applicant's mark, when used on or in connection with Showdown."
the identified goods, so resembles the mark in [Unforgiven] U.S.
Registration No. 2,951,186 as to be likely to cause confusion, to cause Ever have a lover do something
mistake, or to deceive." unforgivable? If so, share your
story with our Unforgivable blog.
The application for Unforgivable's trademark was filed on July 11,
2005 while Unforgiven's application was filed on June 1, 2005.
Unforgiven's notice of publication was put out January 25, 2006.
There's no word whether Unforgiven or Evard plans to take legal action.
Aside from strong sales, Diddy's Unforgivable has had a bumpy

road to date. This past January, Midwestern department stores opted not
to run the colognne's sexually suggestive ad. The ad featured Puff lying
in bed with two other women, hinting at a mnage a trois.
Diddy is no stranger to lawsuits. This past August, Gregory

Hilerbrand filed a complaint that Diddy's "It's Not Just A Label, It's A
Lifestyle" slogan borrowed from his "It's A Lifestyle" slogan.
Hilerbrand, who puts the slogan on his clothing, claims he's sold
$325,000 worth of merchandise from 2001 to 2002.
Air Fresheners Go Easy
MARCH 18, 2006
Pollution Prevention and Control

T RYING TO IDENTIFY OFFENDING CHEMICALS IN HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS
ISN'T EASY.Most packages don't list ingredients, in part because the
fragrance industry can protect formulas as trade secrets.
division, said in the report.
The U.S. Consumer Product

The Research Institute for Fragrance Materials evaluates ingredients Safety Commission is the primary
in air fresheners and other scented household and personal products and regulator of air fresheners and other
provides safety assessments with the guidance of dermatologists, nonpesticide household products.
pathologists, toxicologists and environmental scientists. In its guide to indoor air quality, the
commission concludes that "organ-
"Formulators of air-care products carefully choose ingredients with ic chemicals are widely used as
low toxicity," the Consumer Specialty Products Association writes in a ingredients in household products.
consumer Q&A on its aboutair care.com Web site. "They extensively Paints, varnishes and wax all con-
test both the ingredients and the finished product to ensure that exposure tain organic solvents, as do many
levels from normal product use and potential misuse are below the level cleaning, disinfecting, cosmetic,
that would pose risks." In short, trust us. degreasing and hobby products.
"People believe the government protects them from all chemicals on the "Many organic compounds are
market, but unfortunately, that's not true," Annie B. Bond, author of known to cause cancer in animals;
"Home Enlightenment," a book on natural alternatives to synthetic some are suspected of causing, or
home products. are known to cause, cancer in
humans."
A 2004 study by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency's
National Risk Management Research Laboratory tested plug-in air What's a consumer to do?
fresheners, which contain the chemicals pinene and limonene, among
others. The EPA concluded that the air fresheners, combined with The Consumer Product Safety
ozone, could create a harmful indoor formaldehyde-related smog. Commission recommends eliminat-
Ozone sources include outdoor air on a high-ozone day or an ozone- ing potential sources of indoor air
generating air-cleaning machine. pollution or at least improving ven-
tilation.
"If you are concerned about indoor air, you should not introduce any
extra chemical sources to your home, and that includes volatile organic Use fragrance-free products that are
compounds and ozone," Frank Princiotta, director of the EPA's Air truly free of fragrance. Additional
chemicals sometimes are used to

mask fragrances.
Order unscented magazines. Most

publishers will accommodate the
request.
Be alert to key words on product

labels caution, corrosive, danger,
poison, flammable or strong sensi-
tizer.
Be kind of sensitive guests by

going easy on fragrances when they
visit.
Find natural ways to keep your

home smelling fresh without chem-
icals. Throwing open windows
sounds natural, but think again.
"The fresh air could be full of
pollen and mold," said Dr.
Lawrence B. Schwartz of VCU
Medical Center's rheumatology,
microbiology and immunology
division. -- Julie Young
Dangers of Makeup
SEPTEMBER 27, 2006
Y THE TIME WOMEN WALK OUT THE DOOR IN THE MORNING, AFTER with the function of the endocrine
B SLATHERING, SPRITZING OR SMEARING themselves with toner, mois-
turizer, eye cream, foundation, blush, eye shadow, eyeliner, mascara,
system, and these endocrine disrup-
tors are stored in our body's fatty
lipstick, gloss and perfume, they may have put enough chemicals onto tissues. The Center for Children's
their bodies to be hazardous to their health. Many of the chemicals in Health and the Environment at
makeup have been linked to cancer, hormone imbalances and skin irri- Mount Sinai School of Medicine in
tation. New York says endocrine disrup-
tors have been suspected of con-
According to the Environmental Working Group, a nonprofit envi- tributing to reproductive and devel-
ronmental research organization, which conducted an assessment of opmental disorders, learning prob-
more than 1,000 cosmetic brands, less than 1 percent are made from lems and immune system dysfunc-
ingredients that have all been evaluated for safety. "Some products con- tion in children.
tain carcinogens, reproductive toxins and other chemicals that may pose
health risks," notes the group's Web site. This is especially alarming con-
sidering that young girls are start-
The Food and Drug Administration does not review cosmetic ingre- ing to use cosmetics earlier and
dients for their safety before they come to market, nor does it have the more often. According to a 2004
authority to recall hazardous products. cosmetic industry report by market
research firm Mintel International
According to the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, a program of the Group, 90 percent of 14-year-old
Marin Cancer Project that helps raise awareness about cancer-causing girls say they use makeup. The sur-
chemicals in cosmetics, the average consumer (including teens) uses 15 vey revealed that 63 percent of 7- to
to 25 cosmetic and personal-care products a day. These products will 10-year-olds now wear lipstick;
contain about 200 chemicals that have been added to preserve, dye and more than 2 in 5 girls in that same
emulsify the products. Some are the same chemicals used in industrial age group wear eye shadow or eye-
manufacturing to soften plastics, clean equipment and stabilize pesti- liner, and almost 1 in 4 uses mas-
cides. cara.
One widely used group of synthetic chemicals, parabens (alkyl-p- The European Union recently
hydroxybenzoates), are used as antimicrobial preservatives in more than passed a law banning the use of
13,000 cosmetic products. The Environmental Protection Agency states suspected CMRs -- carcinogens,
that all parabens methyl, propyl, butyl have been proved to interfere mutagens or reproductive toxins --
in any cosmetics sold in the 25- lab experiments, these materials self is to read labels (use a magni-
member EU. The major U.S. cos- may be of concern, but there is no fying glass if necessary) and be
metics companies that sell abroad body of evidence that says this par- suspicious: Words like "natural" or
have had to reformulate their prod- ticular ingredient is not safe in the"hypoallergenic" look reassuring,
ucts to conform to EU safety guide- concentration in which it is used in but they're basically meaningless.
lines, but most haven't changed the nail products." Health advocacy The FDA has no control over these
formulas they sell here. Avon, the groups say that when it comes to labels. Products called "natural,"
self-proclaimed "company for chemicals that affect human health for instance, may include synthetic
women," hasn't signed the Compact and the environment, better safe dyes and fragrances.
for Safe Cosmetics, a pledge to than sorry should be the guiding "Hypoallergenic" just means that
remove carcinogens and other principle. the most common irritants are left
harmful ingredients from beauty out, but other problematic chemi-
products. Reading labels won't always cals might still be in the mix.
help you avoid these chemicals
However, on Sept. 5, bowing to because the beauty industry doesn't "Fragrance-free" or "unscent-
pressure from environmental always disclose every ingredient in ed" means a product has no odor,
groups and European lawmakers, its products. For example, phtha- but synthetic ingredients are often
Orly International and OPI lates (pronounced tha-lates) are added to mask odors. Products
Products, two top beauty-salon rarely mentioned on labels, so without the word "fragrance" on
brands, started selling reformulated there's no way to tell whether their label should be OK.
nail polishes without the chemicals they've been used. Phthalates keep Cosmetics labeled "organic" must
dibutyl phthalate (DBP, a plasticiz- your mascara from running, stop contain 70 percent or more organic
ing ingredient used to increase flex- your nail polish from chipping and ingredients (grown without the use
ibility in nail polishes), formalde- help fragrances linger. There's evi- of pesticides), but read the ingredi-
hyde and toluene, which have been dence that exposure to phthalates ent list carefully. It's important to
linked to cancer and birth defects. can harm the development of fetus- choose products from trusted cos-
These chemicals are banned by the es and children. According to the metic and body care companies that
EU but have not been targeted for Breast Cancer Fund, hundreds of use natural, certified organic, non-
removal in this country by the animal studies have shown that toxic and nonsynthetic ingredients.
FDA. Avon has removed DBP from phthalates can damage the liver,
its polish formula, and Sally kidneys, lungs and the reproductive Bay Area examples include
Hansen, the No. 1 nail polish brand system, primarily of male off- Juice Beauty, Grateful Body,
sold in drugstores, plans to start spring. Benedetta and Max Green Alchemy
selling similarly reformulated prod- (MGA). Other companies include
ucts in 2007. Health Care Without Harm, an Dr. Hauschka, Jurlique, Iredale,
umbrella organization of dozens of PeaceKeeper Cause-metics,
"We are reacting here to chang- environmental and health groups, Gabriel, Zuzu, Burt's Bees, Lavera
ing consumer trends and a changing lab-tested 72 cosmetics by major and Honeybee Garden, which
regulatory environment," said brands such as Revlon, Calvin makes a water-based nail polish
Bruce MacKay, vice president for Klein, Christian Dior and Procter & that peels off and has no odor.
scientific affairs/R&D of Del Gamble and found phthalates in 52
Laboratories, the maker of Sally of their products. While chemicals in any one
Hansen. "In high concentrations in The best way to protect your- product are unlikely to cause harm,
here's the bottom line: We are Triethanolamine

repeatedly exposed to synthetic
chemicals from many sources each Source: Safe Cosmetics
day. So even a small change, like Campaign/Marin Cancer Project
switching to a nontoxic lipstick,
might make a difference in your
health.
To avoid
According to the Safe

Cosmetics Campaign, avoid the
following chemicals in cosmetics
whenever possible:
Butyl acetate
Butylated hydroxytoluene
Coal tar
Cocamide DEA/lauramide DEA
Diazolidinyl urea
Ethyl acetate
Formaldehyde
Parabens (methyl, ethyl, propyl and

butyl)
Petrolatum
Phthalates
Propylene glycol
Sodium laureth/sodium laurel sul-

fate
Talc
Toluene
Avoiding Fragrances
NATIONAL ACADEMY OF SCIENCES REPORTS THAT 95% of the Household Chemicals" list. (US.
T HE
chemicals used in fragrances today are synthetic compounds
derived from petroleum, including known toxins that can cause cancer,
Govt. Environmental Protection
Agency of Pesticides and Toxic
birth defects, central nervous system disorders, asthma and allergic Substances, Washington, DC
reactions. {Medical News Today, 23 Dec. 2006, "Chemical Sensitivities 20660).
and Perfume).
"Safe", "Natural" or "Organic"
While you may like the smell, fragrances can harm you and others do not necessarily mean safe or fra-
around you--because they contain many of the same toxins as in ciga- grance-free.
rette smoke, including solvents like benzene, toluene and formaldehyde.
The fragrance industry is
Approximately 100,000 newer chemicals are in commercial use that unregulated and doesn't have to dis-
didn't used to be in our air. "Injust 26 seconds after any exposure to close what is in their products,
chemicals, they can be found in every organ of the body" (US Dept. of except to say "fragrance". If the
Health). ingredient list says "fragrance", the
product contains toxic fragrance
Fragrance Facts chemicals.
Fragrance chemicals give off volatile organic compounds (VOCs) Short - Term Effects
that are fine particulates. "Particle pollution has been linked to hospital
admissions, emergency room visits for respiratory problems, and to pre- Fragrance is in the same cate-
mature death." (Facts about Indoor Air Pollution, American Lung gory as secondhand smoke in trig-
Association current brochure). gering asthma in adults and school
age children, according to the
EPA Material Safety Data Sheets showed that 20 of the most com- Nat'llnstitute of Medicine.
mon chemicals found in many fragrances were on the EPA's Hazardous (Environmental Health Network of
Waste lists. These carcinogens and nervous system depressants and California).
stimulants include acetone, benzene, benzyl acetate, benzyl alcohol,
ethanol, limonene, and terpenine. ("The Health Risks of Fragrance Approximately 87% of asth-
Ingredients"). matics cite fragrances as a trigger.
("Facts about Indoor Air Pollution
Air fresheners contain chloroform, and are on the "Top 10 Killer and Your Health", American Lung
Assn. handouts). erties that are implicated in the Perfumes and colognes.
alarming increase in genital
Asthma episodes, even fatal asthma defects, especially in baby boys, Citronella insect repellents.
attacks (American Lung Assn.). and reduced sperm count in males
.Eye, nose and throat irritation of all ages (DND Daily News Warning
.Headaches and nausea. Central 26 Nov. 2005). Phthalates
can also cause infertility. "Natural", "Unscented" or
SIDS (sudden infant death syn- "Organic" does not mean "safe"!
drome) can result from short term Neurological and developmen-
exposure. tal disorders, such as autism, MS, If "fragrance" is listed as an ingre-
Parkinson's Disease, dient, the product is generally not
Fragrances contain respiratory safe.
irritants, which can trigger aller- Asberger's syndrome, and
gies, migraine headaches, nausea, ADD. Fragrance-free products can be
sore eyes, sore throats, and irritated found at most whole foods stores.
nasal passages. Cancer: Many synthetic fragrance
chemicals are carcinogenic. Even Unscented laundry detergents can
"Brief exposure to hair sprays essential oils, while derived from be found at most grocery stores.
produce acute bronchi-constriction "natural" sources, become terpenes
in healthy people", (Study by in the milling process. Like turpen-
Cancer Institute & New England tine, terpenes are very toxic irri-
Journal of Medicine). tants.
Absenteeism from school and Common Products Containing

work from asthma episodes. Toxic Fragrances
Asthma is the number one Scented laundry detergent.

cause of school absenteeism
(ALA). .Fragrances can cause both Scented fabric softeners .
fatigue and insomnia.
Plug-in and other air fresheners.
Long - Term Effects
Essential oils.
Asthma, COPD, and other lung
diseases. Scented candles.
Damage to liver, kidneys and Potpourri.

central nervous system. .Birth
defects, which are increasing at an Antibacterial soaps .
alarming rate.
Scented soaps and lotions.
Phthalates in fragrance chemi-
cals have hormone-disrupting prop- Hairsprays and gels .
Boycotting 40th Amendment
FEBRUARY 15, 2007
CALLED TO HALT ADOPTION OF INTERNATIONAL FRAGRANCE ingredients. Without a level playing

B OYCOTT
ASSOCIATIONS (IFRA) 40TH AMENDMENT by UK-based Watchdog
Organization Cropwatch Gains Momentum with Online Poll and
field, these small businesses cannot
be expected to compete.
Petition. Online poll by Perfumer and Flavorist newsletter P&Fnow Approximately 200 essential oils
shows a landslide for Cropwatch with 85.1% of the vote. will be controlled by IFRA if their
40th amendment is ratified.
USA - based Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild joins in effort to
Demand Opening the Process Up for Public Input and Review of the Previous IFRA guidelines have
Process before thousands of small perfumery and toiletry businesses are been responsible for the reformula-
adversely affected by restrictive, unfair compliance standards. tion of many classic perfumes,
essentially destroying works of art
MIAMI SHORES, Fla., February 15, 2007 (SOAPWIRE) On February that existed in liquid form. It is
7, 2007, fragrance and flavor trade magazine Perfumer & Flavorist asserted that perhaps a warning
released the results of an online poll showing 85.1% of readers in favor label would have sufficed in allow-
of boycotting proposed fragrance industry guidelines that will heavily ing the original perfume, scent
limit the use of natural essential oils in perfumes and cosmetics. intact, to remain on shelves. Just as
demand for natural toiletries and
Compliance with these guidelines (the IFRA 40th Amendment) fragrances is growing worldwide,
requires that listed essential oils and naturally occurring constituents be the 40th Amendment could do
kept to certain minimal levels in consumer products. At the core of the damage from the level of growers,
Amendment are safety issues in regard to skin reactions. The ANPG distillers, up to suppliers and manu-
and Cropwatch fully support sensible safety guidelines to protect the facturers. The end result may be the
consumer, but do not believe IFRA has proved that many of the essen- destruction of businesses and the
tial oils affected present the supposed risk, nor have they allowed input absence of genuine naturally scent-
from the impacted concerns, especially small businesses. ed shampoos, creams, lotions, per-
fumes and soaps from store
Although IFRA guidelines are only mandatory for their members, shelves.
they have become the industry norm globally. Consequently, the liveli-
hood of many small businesses is being threatened by an organization To illustrate how the existing
that does not represent them. Adhering to the complex measures not and proposed regulations from
only requires sophisticated computer software, which most small natu- IFRA do not make sense, ANPG
ral products businesses do not possess, it also unfairly targets natural President Anya McCoy recently
blogged on Peanuts vs. Perfume. warning labels on products be con-

Peanuts can kill susceptible people, sidered in place of prohibition or
yet their sales are unrestricted: restriction. Guild Founder, noted
Some perfumes may cause a rash, natural perfumer and author Mandy
yet the International Fragrance Aftel, and Guild President, per-
Associations (IFRA) 40th fumer Anya McCoy will be work-
Amendment wants to severely limit ing with others in the industry to
the publics access to them. challenge the IFRA stance and
Consumers are allowed to make open the amendment adoption
informed decisions about peanut process to the public.
products, yet with IFRA and EU
(see the related FAQ) guidelines
and regulations in place, consumers
will no longer have the freedom to
make informed decisions about
which scented products they wish
to use. Access to aromatherapy
essential oils may also be limited.
The ANPG believes the amend-
ment may be unreasonable because
the measures are based on question-
able scientific premises, and they
are decided behind closed doors
without any possibility of public
discussion or debate. Since the call
for a boycott was proposed two
weeks ago by little-guy Cropwatch,
549 people have signed an online
petition, backing the challenge to
the Goliath IFRA. http://www.ipe-
titions.com/petition/ifra40/signa-
tures.html
Therefore, the ANPG joins

Cropwatch in asking for a moratori-
um on the IFRA 40th amendment,
until these issues have been fully
addressed. We ask that a review of
the scientific methodologies that
were used in the original determi-
nations of skin sensitization be
examined, that the compliance
requirements be reviewed, and that
40th Amendment ( IFRA )
MARCH 2, 2007
EVERAL MAGAZINES & WEBSITES CONTINUE THE CROPWATCH BOYCOTT Phytotherapy Research
S IFRA'S 40TH AMENDMENT STORY. Clare Henderson writes a very
OF
fair & sensible account of the issues at cosmeticsbusiness.com.
10.1002/ptr.2074] and an allegation
that tea tree oil users could fact
Perfumer & Flavorist give an account of why (under pressure from increased health risks from MRSA
IFRA) they removed the Cropwatch vs. IFRA poll result, and publish an if used at les than 4% (Taylor J.
astonishing letter from Jean-Pierre Houri of IFRA. Tony Burfield of (2007) Metro 16.0.07. p7), based
Cropwatch indicates that Jean-Pierre has failed to do his homework in on an article the abstract of which
attempting to dismiss the Cropwatch phenomena, and gives an account can be seen at http://jac.oxfordjour-
of a Perfumers life under fragrance over-regulation at which carries on nals.org/cgi/content/abstract/dkl44
at basenotes.net. 3v1.
Meanwhile, as the end of March 2007 deadline for submission of

material to the SCCP to indicate that Tea Tree Oil is in fact safe to use
in Cosmetics, a flurry of papers on alleging negative health effects for
essential oils have emerged. Several commentators have remarked that
this timing is not co-incidental, and that the non-investigative journal-
ism featured by science reporters who have merely copied such stories
to UK newspapers, is no co-incidence either. One such account, featur-
ing a dubious hypothesis by Derek Henley & chums, allegedly linking
Lavender oil and Tea tree oil in applied cosmetics to gynecomastia in 3
young boys, published in the New England Journal of Medicine is fea-
tured in an article by ATTIA, who are demanding that the article is with-
drawn. This can be seen at http://www.attia.org.au/articles/
attia%20response%20gynecomastia%20allegations%20feb%202007.p
df
Other articles splashed across UK newspapers lately, and requiring

further examination by Cropwatch before any further comment, include
a link between the reduction of hirsutism in women and drinking
spearmint tea several times/day [Akdoan M., Tamer M.H., Cre E.,
Cre M.C., Krolu B.K. Deliba N. (2007) "Effect of spearmint (Mentha
spicata Labiatae) teas on androgen levels in women with hirsutism."
IFRA & Synthetics
MARCH 2, 2007
IFRA HAS SUGGESTED THAT THE MANY BENEFITS OF USING SYN- Despite this admission, lobby
T HE
THETIC INGREDIENTS within fragrance production outweighs the use
of natural ingredients coinciding with the controversial revision of its
groups such as CropWatch will no
doubt see this latest news as further
code of practice last year. evidence that IFRA is outwardly
biased against the use of natural
The association has used its annual 2007 winter update to encourage ingredients within the fragrance
the use of synthetic materials, suggesting that the ingredients are more industry.
stable and less susceptible to price fluctuations within the market.
The IFRA code of practice was
Indeed, the IFRA has stated that although natural ingredients are first introduced in 1973 to properly
given to more variations, therefore exciting to 'play with', the benefits of regulate and provide products that
synthetic ingredients are more pronounced because their performance is are safe for use by the consumer
more easily concerned backing up recent concerns by lobby groups that and for the environment and is said
the Code of Practice is discriminating against natural ingredient use. to reflect the current state of devel-
opment regarding today's scientific
A spokesperson said, "The notes that come from synthetic sources and business environment.
either come from plants that are so fragile oils cannot be extracted from
them, such as the lily of the valley. They also represent totally novel It was mooted for revision in
smells, such as the Aldehydes, without which Chanel 5 wouldn't have October 2006 after the association
been created". called for the inclusion of new poli-
cies essential for the fragrance
The marine note Calone was also cited as being influential in the industry and to update it with the
development of well-known fragrances such as Escape or L'Eau D'Issey latest market knowledge.
Miake. However, the IFRA did show awareness of the role that natural
ingredients play within the fragrance industry, stating that "They are a The adoption of the new poli-
complex blend of molecules that as such do not represent a single note cies such as the new Quantitative
but actually represent a blend of different smell, each with specific Risk Assessment (QRA) method
tonalities". for fragrance sensitizers, the
Compliance Programme, and the
"They are, in effect, a mini perfume unto themselves. They are rich- potential skin effects of oral care
er and provide more complexity to a fragrance than single aroma chem- products were an important part of
icals such as the synthetics". the revised code of practice.
However, lobby group

Cropwatch claims that the revised
code of practice discriminates
against natural products being used
in fragrances and favours synthetic
ingredients, with the IFRA
responding by stating that natural
products must also be regulated
heavily as they are not deemed safe
based solely on their sources.
IFRA & Cropwatch
MARCH 13, 2007
International Fragrance Association ( IFRA ) - Here is what the rewrite

states:
MIDST OF CONTROVERSY ABOUT DRAWING UP NATURAL

W HILE IN
AROMATICS GUIDELINES for Potential European Union (EU)
Adoption into Regulation, Charged With Hiding Agenda by
IFRA has suggested that the
many benefits of using synthetic
ingredients within fragrance pro-
Manipulating Online Article duction are equally as important as
that of natural ingredients - coincid-
In "IFRA Promotes Synthetic Ingredients in Fragrance", an article ing with the controversial revision
which first appeared on March 2, 2007 in Cosmetics Design-Europe, it of its code of practice last year.
was subsequently discovered on March 6, 2007, that a major rewrite had
occurred that completely change the wording regarding the naturals vs. Here's the original second para-
synthetics debate they are currently in with Cropwatch, an independent graph, which apparently has not
watchdog of the natural aromatics industry. Many of the IFRA "volun- been Googled:
tary guidelines" have been adopted into law by the European Union, and
the natural aromatics industry is concerned that this latest backpedaling The association has used its
on the conflict is a bad sign of journalistic manipulation to come. annual 2007 winter update to
encourage the use of synthetic
It is believed that a blog that highlighted the original bias against materials, suggesting that the ingre-
naturals caused IFRA to get the reporter or editor for cosmeticsdesign- dients are more stable and less sus-
europe.com to change the article, creating a credibility and ethics prob- ceptible to price fluctuations within
lem for both IFRA and the publication, in the eyes of the naturals indus- the market.
try. The blog article appears at http://anyasgarden.blog
spot.com/2007/03/its-synthetics-stupid-to-quote.html But the changed new version
now is very different:
The lead paragraph of the cosmeticsdesign-europe.com article, still
available on Google, originally read: The association has used its
annual 2007 winter update to
IFRA has suggested that the many benefits of using synthetic ingre- encourage the use of both synthetic
dients within fragrance production outweighs the use of natural ingre- and natural materials, suggesting
dients coinciding with the controversial revision of its code of practice that synthetic ingredients are stable
last year. and less susceptible to price fluctu-
ations within the market. a 20% annual increase in sales in

the past few years, while the syn-
This is the second scandal that thetics fragrance sales only man-
IFRA has been associated with in aged an annual gain of less than
the past month in their offensive 4%.
against Cropwatch and the natural
aromatics industry.
First, IFRA had Cropwatch's

landslide win in a poll on Perfumer
and Flavorist magazine reopened,
then, by the admission of the editor
of P&F, the entire issue of the poll
convinced P&F take it down two
days later. http://www.perfumerfla-
vorist.com/newsletter/5957641.htm
l
Jean Pierre Houri, the current

Director General of IFRA, was
most recently at the helm of Quest,
a synthetic perfume company,
owned by Imperial Chemicals.
Quest has recently been purchased
by Givaudan, and the company is
focused on developing synthetic
molecules for the fragrance indus-
try. From their website
http://tinyurl.com/37jrxw : Most
of the materials are patented spe-
cialty chemicals that were first
developed at our research centers.
Thanks to a continuous effort
Givaudan has become a leading
company in term of new molecules
patents.
"It is now becoming obvious to

the natural aromatics industry, that
IFRA wants it stifled, and that the
organization no longer represents
their interests. Conversely, the nat-
ural aromatics industry has enjoyed
IFRA & Givaudan Concerns
APRIL, 2007
N- GOING INDUSTRY MISGIVINGS THAT THE I NTERNATIONAL fumers who rely heavily on the cur-
O FRAGRANCE ASSOCIATION'S (IFRA) recent 40th amendment direct-
ly alienates smaller businesses has prompted the president of the asso-
rent consumer trend for natural and
organic products and do not have
ciation to retaliate against such accusations. the time and manpower to under-
take the policy, but will also be
IFRA announced the 40th amendment of its voluntary Code of frowned upon if they do not adhere
Practice earlier this year, including the revised Quantitative Risk to IFRA's voluntary Code of
Assessment (QRA) policy that now requires more intricate testing on all Practice.
ingredients used within fragrance manufacturing.
Houri retaliated to this query,
The complexity of implementing the QRA caused industry lobby stating, "The revised Code of
groups, who are mainly concerned with natural ingredient manufactur- Practice will no doubt cause much
ing, to raise concerns that smaller businesses do not have the ability to more work for smaller businesses
wade through 'the unnecessary red tape' caused by the amendment. and they will have to look more in-
depth at their fragrance manufac-
Jean-Pierre Houri, president of the IFRA, spoke to turing. However, it is by no means
CosmeticsDesign to give his stance on the matter, "The first thing to impossible and, if done correctly, is
remember is that the IFRA represents over 90 per cent of the industry, perfectly manageable".
and the amendment was not developed in isolation, but with full support
of many IFRA members, and individual bodies". He continued to say that an
upcoming 42nd amendment, set to
"The QRA was developed to better benefit the end consumer and be announced in April, will further
methodically refine fragrance manufacturing to further reduce the risk benefit these smaller businesses
of dermatological problems as a result of fragrance wearing" he contin- with new policies set to allow an
ued. additional year for companies to
reformulate fragrances that do not
With fragrance manufacturers now required to test on 11 different fall in line with the amendment -
levels as opposed to one, industry insiders have suggested that the fra- setting the deadline of 2009.
grance industry will now be overrun with larger corporations who have
the capital available to implement the scheme. The new amendment will relate
to 30-40 ingredients and is said to
In turn, it is alleged that this could lead to the end of smaller per- allow manufacturers in the fra-
grance industry to 'know the rules However, press reports state

for QRA scheme in advance, and that this is part of the reason why
abolish the step-by-step approach' much of the aroma trade is moving
that threatened to upset the industryout of the heavily legislated
further. European market, angered that
individuals with no experience
The independent watchdog for within the cosmetics industry are
the aroma trade, Cropwatch, is cur- able to oversee the way fragrances
rently campaigning to boycott the are created.
recent 40th amendment to its vol-
untary code of practice with a new The code of practice was first
online petition. introduced in 1973 by IFRA to
properly regulate and provide prod-
At present the petition has over ucts that are safe for use by the con-
700 names on it, mainly consisting sumer and for the environment and
of smaller independent fragrance is said to reflect the current state of
companies who share Cropwatch's development regarding today's sci-
view over the uncertainty of their entific and business environment.
future if they are made to abide by
the new regulations. It was mooted for revision in
October 2006 after the association
The petition, hosted on numer- called for the inclusion of new poli-
ous pro natural cosmetic websites, cies essential for the fragrance
encourages members of the IFRA industry and to update it with the
to leave the organisation in favour latest market knowledge.
of the Cropwatch boycott, which
accuses IFRA of 'creating a hostile
environment' for the aroma trade
due to the restrictive legislation
about to be enforced.
However, according to the

IFRA, Rexpan, an independent
panel of experts that has no com-
mercial ties to the fragrance indus-
try and consists of toxicologists,
pharmacologists, pathologists,
environmental scientists and der-
matologists, reviews all findings
from the Research Institute for
Fragrance Materials (RFIM) and
bases its knowledge on existing
data.
Citrus Ingredients Gone?
APRIL, 2007
would be a drastic move from essential oil producers by their obe-

B ANNING CITRUS OILS FROM PERFUMES
which perfumery would never recover. But according to a commu-
nication written on 4th April 2007 by Sabine Lecrenier, Head of Unit
dient submission of technical data
to EU regulators, which has
for the Cosmetics Sector to Cropwatch (attached to this newsletter), this enabled progressive forms of
unthinkable step is precisely the outcome which the EU Cosmetics reg- restrictive legislation to be passed
ulators have decided upon by placing a restriction on certain furano against the very trade that they are
coumarins (FCFs) such that their content in finished cosmetics cannot supposed to represent.
collectively exceed more that 1 ppm, in line with the previous recom-
mendations of the 2001 SCCP Opinion & SCCP Opinion 0942/05. In It may very well be the case
our view, this once more confirms the Brussels anti-naturals fragrance that industry as a whole chooses to
ingredients machinery is operating in over-drive, becoming a vendetta ignore this legislation as being
of scandalous proportions. completely destabilising &
unworkable. Cropwatch has to
Executive Summary work on a worst possible scenario,
and therefore we consider that it is
In spite of the fact that this is potentially the most serious situation only the sophistication of the fra-
that the perfume trade has ever faced, any open resistance to this move grance consumer lobby itself that
is likely to be weak. The (confessed trade independent) SCCP / DG offers any real hope of true resist-
Entr. personnel do not have an authoritative overview of the fragrance ance & reform. Cropwatch is there-
industry and do not fully comprehend the implications of the regulations fore launching the Campaign for
that they help impose on the cosmetics trade. IFRA and EFFA are part real perfume hoping for consumer
of the problem too, becoming alarmingly right-wing/authoritarian and support to counteract what we have
threatening member companies with severe measures if they do not fol- to see as philistinic regulatory
low their Codes of Practice, which feed into the EU Cosmetic crimes against the perfumery art.
Directives. A non-scientific Cropwatch survey of the attendance of pro-
fessional perfumery organization meetings shows a membership A Brief Historical Note on
increasingly dominated by regulatory affairs personnel rather than per- Citrus Oils in Fragrances.
fumers. The significance of these measures on the perfumery art will be
totally lost on these types of technical employees. And as we have pre- Citrus oils are absolutely vital
viously proven, the trade press is largely loyal to IFRA and panders to ingredients in perfumes. Citrus
the interests of corporate dinosaurs, and not to interests of cosmetics colognes were originally construct-
consumers. The trade essential oil organizations have angered many ed by immersing various plant
materials in alcohol, the alcohol Certainly by the mid 1500s cit-

concentrated by distillation, distill-rus oils were widely produced &
ing the major part off (often down used for fragrancing such that indi-
to one third of the original bulk), vidual fragrances based on mixture
and citrus and other oils were added of citrus oils were developed (e.g.
e.g. as in the popular fragrance Eau de Carmes). By 1709 we have
type: Millefleurs. the example of major citrus oil per-
fume deployment in Eau de
These early perfumes were Cologne (4711) by Gian Paolo
somewhat unstable and prone to Feminis, the story of which needs
oxidation due to the high monoter- no introduction from us.
pene hydrocarbons content
(Simonis 1984), but the develop- Slightly later, the use of citrus
ment of concentrated & terpeneless oils is demonstrated in Eau Imp~ale
citrus oils was said to vercome (Guerlain 1861) created by
these problems. Guerlain for Emperess Eugenie
(wife of Napoleon Ill). Nowadays
Unless specifically treated, many publications recount the early
many essential oils derived from uses of these materials in the per-
species of the Apiaceae & Rutaceae fumery art, such as that of Burfield
(including citrus 'oils, angelica & a (2002) & Williams (2004).
few others) will contain a fura-
nocoumarin (FCF) content appar- Felix Buccellato wrote an
ently even those labeled FCF-free. excellent review of the importance
of citrus oils to the development of
Although FCFs may be associ- Western perfumery over the last
ated with beneficial properties in eight of nine decades which can be
specific situations, there are con- found at
cerns that some may be associated
with photo-toxic &, some suggest, Please visit Cropwatch web site for
possibly photo-carcinogenic reac- balance of article.
tions, although this situation is
hardly new.
To our certain knowledge peo-

ple have been putting perfumes
containing FCFs on their skins for
more than 600 years for example
the lemon peel & angelica contain-
ing (and therefore FCF containing)
Carmelite Water was formulated in
1379 at Abbaye St. Juste.
Givaudan Restructures Fragrance Industry
APRIL 12, 2007
ened to upset the industry further.

C ONTINUING ITS PLEDGE TO REFORM THE FRAGRANCE INDUSTRY WITH
ITS REVISED CODE OF PRACTICE, the IFRA has released a revised
Quantitative Risk Assessment booklet in a bid to educate the industry The booklet goes into depth
further on the recent 42nd amendment. detailing how the new standards
will be set and how existing IFRA
It is the second edition of the booklet, which was first released by standards will be handled.
the association early last year in relation to the then 40th amendment.
In order to give manufacturers
In conjunction with the booklet the IFRA is also holding a work- further comfort regarding the future
shop in the US in June encouraging all members and non-members to of the fragrance legislation the
attend in order to fully review the implications of the 42nd amendment booklet also discusses what prac-
and its implementation times. tices may be considered for inclu-
sion in the voluntary code of prac-
The 42nd amendment has extended the number of standards set on tice in the future.
the basis of dermal sensitization - covering 14 new standards with 19
new materials, 'which cover most of the fragrance ingredients that First introduced in 1973 the
require so-called 'allergen labelling' in Europe'. code was initiated to properly regu-
late and provide products that are
The IFRA has pitted the booklet as a way to educate fragrance sup- safe for use by the consumer and
pliers and users on the new amendment, and the extended implementa- for the environment.
tion times designated, following industry confusion over what materials
actually need to be tested. It is said to reflect the current
state of development regarding
Jean-Paul Houri earlier commented to CosmeticsDesign-Europe today's scientific and business envi-
that the new amendment would help to clear up certain industry mis- ronment.
givings that the code of practice discriminates against the smaller per-
fumers who do not have the time or money to wade through 'the unnec- However, it was mooted for
essary red tape'. revision in October 2006 after the
association called for the inclusion
Relating to 30-40 ingredients the new amendment is said to allow of new policies essential for the fra-
manufacturers in the fragrance industry to learn the rules for the QRA grance industry and to update it
scheme in advance, abolishing the step-by-step approach' that threat- with the latest market knowledge.
Since the inclusion of the QRA

many organisations, such as the
independent watchdog for the
aroma trade Cropwatch, have stated
that the IFRA actively discrimi-
nates against smaller perfumers
who rely heavily on the current
consumer trend for natural and
organic products and do not have
the time and manpower to under-
take the policy.
Indeed, the watchdog has gone

so far as to create a petition to boy-
cott the amendment, which at pres-
ent has over 700 names on it.
These names mainly consist of

smaller independent fragrance
companies who share Cropwatch's
view over the uncertainty of their
future if they are made to abide by
the new regulations.
Cosmetic Dangers
MAY 3, 2007
of all eight of them are positive for these

T HEY HAVE TO PUT TONS AND TONS OF MAKEUP ON YOU BECAUSE
the lights," said Olivia James, former model. kinds of effects," said Dr. Gray.
Theyre banned in Europe because of safety concerns, but theyre still widely Gray works with the EPA. He's
used in this country. Some clinical studies link phthalates to cancer and doing some of the world's leading
birth defects and a federal lab in RTP is revealing why research on the impact of phtha-
you should be concerned about the beauty secret. lates.
James spent 15 years living the glamorous life. "There are also a lot of studies,
human epidemiological studies,
"You know you've got someone working your hair, and you've got that have shown associations
someone working your face," James said. "There's someone painting between phthalate exposures and
your nails." cancers," he explained.
James was a New York model. Those studies show a connec-

tion to breast cancer and testicular
"Not just your face but your body was covered with a lot of correc- cancer.
tive makeup, whether that's foundation, concealer, um, very thick con-
sistency, um, to make it look as perfect as possible," said James. In 2005, FDA researchers test-
ed 48 different products everything
She thinks all that makeup was filled with chemicals called phtha- from body lotion, hair spray and
lates, and she's convinced it led to a birth defect in her son, Darren. deodorant to nail polish, body wash
Something called hypospadias when the urethra does not form correct- and shampoo.
ly.
They looked for four different
"I felt very guilty, as a mother," she said. "You want to do everything phthalates and found them in a total
you can to have a healthy happy child." of 32 products or 66 percent, but
the same study said there was no
Dr. Earl Gray is a researcher in RTP. In his lab, he's found evidence basis to regulate phthalates in the
phthalates produce the very birth defect her son has. U.S. at that time.
We've studied about 13 or 14 different phthalates and of that group "I think consumers would have
a very difficult time in deciding the A trade group called The Cosmetic, of 2,800 people.
products to not use, to avoid," Gray Toiletry and Fragrance Association
said. disagrees. An advocacy group said it has
obtained ingredient lists for nearly
That's because Dr. Gray said It says: "The use of phthalates 15,000 personal care products.
phthalates aren't always included in cosmetics and personal car prod-
on the label. ucts is supported by an extensive In January, Consumer Reports
body of scientific research and data tested eight perfumes, and it said
In Europe, it's easy to avoid that confirms safety." the products all contained phtha-
phthalates. Two of them have been lates.
banned since 2004. Cosmetic com- The FDA and EPA have exam-
panies have reformulated their ined phthalates used in cosmetics
products. and have not restricted that use.
"I personally take offense to But Dr. Gray says that could
that, that you can reformulate it for change. Federal officials are now
another country but you know, you scrutinizing his research. "The EPA
can't do it for us, our money is has, is beginning, to do risk assess-
green just like anyone else," James ments on some of the phthalates."
said.
For now, James is on her own
Burt's Bees is a natural cosmet- crusade to convince people to stay
ics company headquartered in away from phthalates. "Whenever
Wake County. Burt's refuses to use I'm in the store, and I see the young
phthalates. girls they're putting the makeup on.
They're trying them on, and you see
"I do believe it's putting people pregnant women, and they're put-
at risk because there's enough evi- ting makeup on and I just want to
dence through a lot of research that shake them."
they are carcinogens," said Celeste
Lutrario, Burt's Bees. Three cosmetic companies have
recently announced they're remov-
Lutrario spends a lot of time in ing phthalates from their nail pol-
the lab as head of research and ish. They are Essie, OPI and Sally
development. She said it's harder to Hansen.
make products without phthalates,
but it's the right thing to do. This isn't just a concern for
women.
"They don't need to be in them,
and the fact is Europe has formulat- In 2005, the CDC found break-
ed without them, we've formulated down chemicals from two of the
without them, so they don't need to most common cosmetic phthalates
be in the products," said Lutrario. in almost every member of a group
Makeup Toxicity
JULY 1, 2007
HEN YOUR PERSONAL-CARE PRODUCTS COULD CAUSE CANCER, that's Check your makeup
W a little too personal.
Several encouraging develop-
Most of us use 15 or more cosmetic and toiletry products each day, ments have occurred recently. An
such as shampoo, skin cream, deodorant, sunscreen, nail polish and per- online cosmetics-safety database
fume. The personal-care products used by Americans contain 10,500 for consumers, called "Skin Deep,"
different chemicals, according to the Seattle-based Toxic-Free Legacy underwent a major makeover in
Coalition. May. This update made it more
comprehensive and easier to use.
Only 11 percent of these chemicals have been assessed for health
and safety by any U.S. government agency, says the coalition, and one- Highlighting ingredients that
third of all personal-care products contain at least one chemical linked may pose safety risks, this ambi-
to cancer. Some chemicals in these products also have links to birth tious database maintained by the
defects and other health problems. nonprofit Environmental Working
Group (EWG) lists ingredients in
Chemicals in cosmetics that pose health risks, according to the 25,000 products. That's still only
Coalition, include suspected and proven carcinogens such as formalde- one-quarter of the personal-care
hyde and coal tar, phthalates (alleged endocrine disrupters) and neuro- products on the market. But you
toxins such as lead and mercury. will probably find data about sever-
al products you use. It might even
Many problem ingredients do not appear on labels. Under current inspire your own cosmetics-pur-
federal law, the cosmetics industry largely regulates itself. The U.S. chasing makeover.
Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not require cosmetics man-
ufacturers to have their products pre-approved before they are sold, to Europe REACHes out
report cosmetics-related injuries or to file data on ingredients.
In the European Union, a new
The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, a major industry law known as REACH
trade group, insists that concerns over health risks are unwarranted, stat- (Registration, Evaluation and
ing, "FDA statistics confirm that cosmetics are one of the safest cate- Authorisation of Chemicals) creat-
gories of products used by Americans today." ed the European Chemicals Agency
on June 1. The law requires compa-
nies to register product-safety
information with the agency, and responded to the increased scrutiny

will likely result in new bans of of its products by developing a
chemicals. Consumer Commitment Code and
emphasizing the role of its
Even before REACH, Europe Cosmetic Ingredient Review pro-
had already banned more than gram.
1,000 ingredients in cosmetics,
compared with just eight cosmetic What you can do
ingredients outlawed in the U.S.,
according to Consumers Union. To reduce the likelihood of
risks from your personal-care prod-
Some cosmetics companies ucts, consult the "Skin Deep" data-
market different versions of prod- base and follow these additional
ucts, with the U.S. versions con- tips:
taining chemicals not allowed in
the E.U. But as this becomes more Use caution with problem prod-
difficult for manufacturers, both ucts. The EWG has identified hair
logistically and from a public-rela- dye, nail polish, "sunless tanning"
tions standpoint, more companies products, "anti-aging" potions and
will likely remove targeted chemi- skin lighteners as product cate-
cals from their American products. gories with significant potential
problems.
U.S. laws to become stronger?
Reduce use of fragrances.
Congress may soon consider Manufacturers rarely disclose fra-
making U.S. chemical regulations grance ingredients. Fragrances may
stronger, in response to Europe's contain neurotoxins and trigger
REACH. Activity has already allergies, says the EWG. Even
begun on the state level. The products marketed as "unscented"
California Safe Cosmetics Act of often include a masking fragrance
2005 requires, among other provi- to cover chemical odors.
sions, that manufacturers report the
use of potentially unsafe ingredi- Be skeptical of product claims.
ents. Cosmetics manufacturers don't
have to verify terms such as "natu-
A similar bill in Washington ral" or "organic."
state did not make it out of commit-
tee this year. The Toxic-Free Keep it simple. In general, the
Legacy Coalition expects related fewer ingredients, the lower the
legislation will be reintroduced in risk.
Olympia in 2008.
The cosmetics industry has

Fake Fragrances
AUGUST 3, 2007
CHINESE COMPANY TO MANUFACTURE A PRODUCT, or out- "My competitor was selling his
A SKING A
source a component from China could mean one thing: asking for
trouble.
perfumes in the same bottle, that
gave the impression that the prod-
ucts were the same. After a brief
In the age of globalisation, almost every consumer product is assem- inquiry, we found that the supplier
bled from parts and components supplied by vendors from a number of was the same Chinese trader. This
countries. Manufacturers have largely become assemblers or product is what they do to you," he said.
integrators.
Although this model of out-
As China provides the cheapest manufacturing solution to compa- sourcing appears to be somehow
nies worldwide, it has become the world's largest factory. convenient to most multinational
companies, it comes with a large
When a Dubai-based perfume manufacturer asked a Chinese facto- risk: Piracy.
ry to outsource the production of perfume bottles for his future con-
signments, he did not know what he was getting into. In reality, it boils down to only
one thing: Production of fakes.
"I simply ordered him to manufacture the colourful bottles in which
we pour expensive oriental perfumes and sell to our customers," said the That's what is happening to
perfumer at an exhibition at the Dubai World Trade Centre. global brandowners. Global brands
are losing billions of dollars in rev-
"He gave me a good price, more than half the then current price. He enue as someone in a Chinese fac-
promised to deliver exactly the same and well in time, which was what tory decides to channel those to the
I was looking for at a trade fair. grey market.
Revelation Dubai's traders are also not an

exception. "China continues to be a
"As per the contract, he began to deliver goods on time and I con- haven for counterfeiters and
tinued to pay him." pirates. According to one copyright
industry association, the piracy rate
However, a few months later, the same bottle was made available to remains one of the highest in the
his competitors. world, more than 90 per cent, and
US companies lose over $1 billion
in legitimate business each year to 2005 alone.

piracy," according to the US
Embassy in China. Globally, countries and regula-
tors are trying to contain this threat.
"On average, 20 per cent of all The GCC market happens to be the
consumer products in the Chinese latest casualty.
market are counterfeit. If a product
sells, it is likely to be illegally As the region's economies
duplicated. US companies are not gradually integrate, the penetration
alone, as pirates and counterfeiters of fakes is creating a major prob-
target both foreign and domestic lem.
companies."
Saudi Arabian officials have
The fact that a fake Rolex is now openly began blaming some of
sold at 10 ringgit in Kuala Lumpur the UAE's emirates for not doing
or 50 baht in Bangkok is not new. enough to combat piracy, resulting
What is new is that one can now in a spat.
buy it for Dh10 to Dh15 in selected
locations in the UAE. The influx of fakes could really
pose a threat to the region's busi-
Threat nesses which have largely remained
clean.
The influx of fakes and coun-
terfeits are a growing threat to glob- However, nothing is cheap in
al trade. The threat originates most- life. As the saying goes, even
ly from China and some Southeast cheaper products comes with a
Asian countries like Malaysia. price!
In 2005, between 85-93 per Have your say

cent of music CDs, business soft-
ware, entertainment software, and Do you know anyone who buys
movie DVDs in China were pirat- or sells fake goods? Have you ever
ed. bought pirated items? Why? What
do you think is a major influence in
"Those levels weren't signifi- the rising number of pirated items
cantly higher and couldn't be much being smuggled into the region?
higher in 2002, when China joined
the WTO," US legislator Sander
Levin was quoted in a recent report
as saying.
Piracy had cost the US enter-

tainment industries $2.6 billion in
Floris of London & its Fragrance Auction
OCTOBER 4, 2007
Press Release - For more information please visit

www.florislondon-usa.com ...Floris
London- The Art of Fragrance
o help spread the word about National Breast Cancer A wareness
T this month, Floris London is auctioning off a classic men's fra-
grance collection for a very special cause.
Floris London is currently hosting a special eBay auction of the last

60 bottles available in the US of their exclusive and prestigious No.89
men's fragrance, and will donate 25% of the proceeds to the Susan G.
Komen for the Cure breast cancer foundation.
Sought by men the world over requests for the elusive No.89 have
been great, and this sophisticated and provocative scent has been worn
by many celebrities, including James Bond in the 007 novels and star
Daniel Craig in Casino Royale. Richard Branson was delighted when he
recently received a fresh bottle of No. 89 from us at a party in New York
City celebrating the launch ofhis new Virgin America airline.
To place a bid, please go to http://search.ebay.com/Floris-No-89
About Floris London
For over 275 years, the Floris London name has been synonymous
with superior and distinctive fragrances for men, women and home.
Floris London's current Chairman John Bodenham is an 8th descendant
of company founder Juan Femenias Floris, and their flagship store is
still located at its original 89 Jermyn Street address in Mayfair London.
Other Floris fragrances include: Night Scented Jasmine, evocative of
sumptuous and romantic Mediterranean evenings; Florissa, the true
essence of an English garden; and Seringa, a modern, assertive scent
and the adornment of pure elegance.
DNA Perfume are You Stupid!
OCTOBER 16, 2007
NA Enochs secret has quickly gar-

D HAS APPARENTLY BEEN AROUND FOR BILLIONS OF YEARS IN ITS
CURRENT FORM IN VIRTUALLY ALL FORMS OF LIFe, but the testing for
exclusive matches met with its greatest public exposure during the OJ
nered interest from fragrance dis-
tributors in Australia, China and
Simpson trial sparking a fragrant idea in the subconscious of Armenia proposing exclusive retail
Entrepreneur, Carlton Enoch, now CEO of My DNA Fragrance. distribution rights for the introduc-
tion of the exclusive fragrance,
DNA fingerprinting and exclusive identity matching introduced which is currently only available
during the OJ Simpson Trial smelled like a great idea for online.
Entrepreneur Carlton Enoch, who has spent the last 9
years developing a unique fragrance line based on Customer responses to the
DNA blueprints. newly launched fragrance have
been favorable, as the testimonials
When asked how he came up with the concept for My DNA pour in praising the companys
Fragrance, a unique new fragrance line which creates one-of-a-kind fra- product and its service.
grance formulations based on individual DNA blueprints, Mr. Enoch
responded, I was applying fragrance one morning while watching the "I just wanted to tell you that I
OJ Simpson trial when DNA fingerprinting was introduced. The idea of had major success with your DNA-
creating something that was uniquely mine based on my own DNA fas- Fragrance. Everybody was asking
cinated me. I knew I had a great idea and was interested in creating me, where I got that scent from.
something totally exclusive and individual in the area of fragrance. Much much better than any other
scent I have bought before! For that
My DNA Fragrance brings a revolutionary and unique new concept I wanted to thank you from the bot-
in fragrance formulation to the perfumery process, which has not tom of my heart." Patrik
changed since antiquity, making signature fragrance a reality for con- Switzerland Switzerland
sumers that are increasingly demanding exclusivity in the products they
purchase. Thank you, this has been
excellent service and it is very
In every interview Enoch is inevitably asked the curious question, much to your credit that you have
How do you do it? He smiles candidly and responds, Its no secret that been so proactive to help us. I can
all perfume houses closely guard their fragrant formulations. Much like not sing your praises too highly to
McDonalds secret sauce and Coca-Colas special soda formulation, we my friends. Steve United
too have a secret. Kingdom
First time customers will the exact same fragrance.

receive a DNA home collection kit
to lightly swab the inside of their The data that is being gleamed-
check and return it to My DNA off of you is actually being sold to
Fragrances lab in the provided unknown third parties. What they
self-addressed envelope. Soon are doing with it is placing the
afterwards they will receive their information into a national data
choice of 4 oz of cologne or per- bank for a quite scarry future hid-
fume and a copy of their DNA pro- den agenda.
file. First time cost for perfume
is$189.98 and for cologne is Believe that I am incorrect. Do
$159.98. Refills are between you own a cell phone? Verizon
$89.99 and $59.99. Wireless sells everyones personal
data to a company called Intelius.
With more than 30,000 design- For a fee they will sell your person-
er fragrances on the market today, al information to anyone.
My DNA Fragrance has pioneered
a revolutionary new path in the pro-
duction of fragrance creating bio-
logically seductive liquid treasures
that caress the secret desires of the
mind in a world seeking individual-
ity and exclusivity. Your fragrance
is in the bottle, but the Scent is in
You. www.mydnafragrance.com.
Authors Notes:
Let me get this straight. You

take a swab of your DNA from
your cheek. Then send it to DNA
Fragrances for a fragrance match. I
mean are folks really that lame.
Check out the companies web

site. In order to analyze your DNA
at the very least they would need a
sophisticated Gas Chromatography
computer including chemists.
Keep in mind everbodys DNA

is unique. No two individuals
would smell the same even utilizing
Air Fresheners Toxicity
SEPTEMBER 27, 2007
Walgreens pulls its air freshener

A TEST OF AIR FRESHENER PRODUCTS RECENTLY CONDUCTED BY THE
NATURAL RESOURCES DEFENSE COUNCIL found that 12 out of 14
popular air freshener products contained a chemical known to be harm-
products
ful to the health of humans. Phthalates, known to cause reproductive According to the NRDC, the air
problems and hormone disruption in humans, were found in virtually all freshener products with the highest
air freshener brands, including several Walgreens-branded air freshen- levels of detectable phthalates were
ers that the popular retailer has now pulled off its shelves. Walgreens Air Freshener,
Walgreens Scented Bouquet, and
Key concepts: toxic chemicals, air fresheners and cancer. Ozium Glycolized Air Sanitizer.
Walgreens has since pulled its air
Neither the FDA nor the EPA conducts any safety testing or spot freshener products from its shelves,
checking of toxic chemicals in air freshener products. Essentially, con- apparently out of this newly
sumers could be exposed to any number of toxic airborne chemicals revealed health concern.
from air freshener products, with no warning whatsoever. The safety of
chemicals used in these products is utterly ignored by the FDA in much Four consumer advocacy
the same way that perfumes and cosmetic products containing cancer- groups (and environmental groups)
causing chemicals are routinely ignored by the agency. The FDA makes are now filing a petition with the
virtually no effort to protect American consumers from cancer-causing EPA and Consumer Product Safety
or hormone-disrupting chemicals in tens of thousands of consumer Commission (CPSC), calling for
products, and were it not for the efforts of consumer advocacy groups the agency to start testing air fresh-
and environmental protection groups like the NRDC, no one would be ener products for this toxic chemi-
protecting consumers at all. (U.S. government agencies usually have to cal. The four groups include the
be sued by groups like the CSPI or Public Citizen before they will take Sierra Club, Alliance for Healthy
any pro-consumer action...) Homes and the National Center for
Healthy Housing.
Only two products tested by the NRDC Febreze Air Effects and
Renuzit Subtle Effects contained virtually no detectable levels of phtha- All this brings to mind an
lates, yet the twelve other products tested positive for the chemical even important question: Why hasn't
though some were labeled "unscented" and none of them listed phtha- some government agency taken
lates as an ingredient. Some products were even labeled "All natural!" steps to test these toxic chemicals
(Which just goes to demonstrate, yet again, that the "All natural" claim in air freshener products before?
is meaningless.)
Toxic products for the home are right now. and that even popular laundry
found everywhere detergent products wash your
The average American con- clothes in a toxic brew of synthetic
The sad truth is that you can sumer uses close to 100 toxic chemicals and artificial fragrances.
walk down the aisle of just about chemicals before she even leaves Sites like NewsTarget and the
any popular retailer (Walgreens, the house in the morning. Many of Organic Consumers Association
Wal-Mart, etc.) and find literally those chemicals are encountered in (www.OrganicConsumers.org) are,
hundreds of different products that the morning during showering, of course, trying to do something
contain dangerous chemicals, many shaving, skin care, hair care and about this by educating consumers.
of which are well known to pro- application of cosmetics. Other We've even gone out of our way to
mote cancer. These chemicals are chemicals are encountered in acquire thousands of kilograms of
openly added to laundry detergents, breakfast foods, including bacon, natural laundry detergent to replace
skin creams, cosmetics, pet prod- sausage, processed milk, breads the toxic, brand-name detergents
ucts, household cleaners, car clean- and other processed foods. By the sold in stores (watch for an
ers, dish soap, perfumes, shampoos time the average consumer leaves announcement in the next two days,
and many other products regularly their home in the morning, they've or click here to see our new soap
used by consumers. Of course, already poisoned their liver, pan- nuts product). Our aim is to elimi-
most consumers have no idea creas, kidneys, heart, lungs and nate chemicals in 500,000 loads of
they're consuming cancer-causing brain. A typical American con- laundry in the next 90 days, pro-
ingredients, and most retailers seem sumers has over 300 different syn- tecting consumers from cancer and
to have no interest whatsoever in thetic chemicals in their body right protecting the environment from
testing their products for dangerous now. Is it any wonder degenerative the downstream toxicity caused by
chemical substances. disease rates have skyrocketed in the use of commercial laundry
the U.S. over the last several detergents (which are dangerous to
Why was Walgreens selling decades? aquatic ecosystems).
products if it didn't know what was
in them? And what about retailers Lots of chemical contaminants The bottom line to all this is
like Wal-Mart, Costco and Sam's now emerging that corporations are selling con-
Clubs? Aren't they also aware that sumers a cocktail of toxic chemi-
many of their consumer products I think the U.S. population is cals found in tens of thousands of
contain cancer-causing chemicals? suddenly waking up to the fact that different products, none of which
the vast majority of popular prod- are effectively regulated by any
The sad truth is that most ucts marketed to them and sold at government agency. Across the
brand-name consumer products retailers are, in one way or another, industry, there seems to be no con-
contain at least one toxic chemical, dangerous to their health. cern whatsoever for the safety of
and that's true for food as much as consumers, and that's why every-
it is for home care products. Unless People have suddenly come to thing from pet food to perfume is
you're shopping at a health food realize that brand-name dog food is now manufactured with chemicals
store and buying truly natural, so toxic that it will kill your dog, that are well known to cause can-
organic, unscented and environ- that toys from China contain dan- cer, infertility, neurological disor-
mentally responsible products, you gerous levels of lead, that perfume ders and many other serious health
can bet there are toxic chemicals all products can contain as many as 21 problems.
over your home (and in your body) different cancer-causing chemicals
Believe me: The discovery of itself, slightly toxic. only heard the beginning of all this.
phthalates in air freshener products Just wait until scientists someday
is just the tip of the iceberg. What Right now, nobody is talking wake up and start realizing that vir-
other chemicals lurk in these same about this. This risk of chemical tually everything sold at most
air freshener products? And can cross-contamination hasn't even retailers is contaminated with toxic
you imagine all the toxic chemicals been admitted to by mainstream chemicals even when those chemi-
found in high-fragrance shampoos, scientists, the FDA, the EPA or any cals are not added to the products
nail polish, makeup remover and government agency. And yet it's a during manufacturing! Just remem-
dryer sheets? When the truth comes huge issue that impacts virtually all ber this:
out about those products someday, consumers; even healthy con-
consumers are going to shocked to sumers who think they're reading Products sitting on the shelves
discover just how toxic their homes labels and making smart shopping at retailers exchange molecules.
(and bodies) have become thanks to choices. If they're buying food or Fruits and vegetables absorb mole-
the relentless use of synthetic beverages under the same roof as a cules in the air, and solvent chemi-
chemicals by commercial product store that sells garden pesticides, cals can go right through plastic
manufacturers. toxic air fresheners, chemical- containers. When you buy some-
soaked dryer sheets or other prod- thing at a store, you're buying a lit-
This stuff gets absorbed into the ucts containing dangerous chemi- tle bit of everything in the store! It's
food at the grocery store! cals, then they're buying chemical- another reason to stop shopping at
ly contaminated food! retailers that sell pesticides, toxic
Oh, and here's another huge soaps, laundry products, solvents
"Wow" realization that, I guarantee It's yet another reason to buy and cleaners. Get your food from a
you, nobody else is talking about from local farmers' markets or co- FOOD store, and make sure it's real
these days: Many of these toxic fra- op stores. Support Community- food (not that processed garbage).
grance chemicals escape from their Supported Agriculture organiza-
product bottles, circulate in the air tions (CSAs) and grow what you By the way, you can read the
at grocery stores, and get absorbed can yourself, in your own back original NRDC press release at:
by other food products sold in the yard, where the food goes from
same store. your garden to your plate, without www.nrdc.org/media/2007/070919.
being subjected to toxic chemicals asp
I'm not kidding: That's why the in the air. And get some detox prod-
peaches I once bought at Costco ucts to get rid of these chemicals. About the author: Mike Adams
smell like Tide laundry detergent. Some great sources include Heavy is a natural health author and tech-
It's because the peaches have Metal Detox from www.Detox nology pioneer with a mission to
soaked up some chemicals from the Metals.com and Metal Magic from teach personal and planetary health
Tide! It's why fresh produce sold at www.BaselineNutritionals.com to the public He has authored more
grocery stores sometimes tastes (another interesting product is than 1,500 articles and dozens of
like soap, or why water sold in Natural Cellular Defense which I reports, guides and interviews on
cheap plastic jugs easily soaks up recommend through a friend natural health topics, reaching mil-
fragrance chemicals and tastes like Jason Groode at //www.mywaio- lions of readers with information
Bounce dryer sheets. Any food ra.com /195399 ) that is saving lives and improving
item you buy from a retailer that personal health around the world.
sells toxic cleaning products is, Trust me on this issue: We've Adams is an honest, independent
journalist and accepts no money or

commissions on the third-party
products he writes about or the
companies he promotes. In 2007,
Adams launched EcoLEDs, a
maker of energy efficient LED
lights that greatly reduce CO2
emissions. He also launched an
online retailer of environmentally-
friendly products
(BetterLifeGoods.com) and uses a
portion of its profits to help fund
non-profit endeavors. He's also the
founder and CEO of a well known
email mail merge software devel-
oper whose software, 'Email
Marketing Director,' currently runs
the NewsTarget email subscrip-
tions. Adams volunteers his time to
serve as the executive director of
the Consumer Wellness Center, a
501(c)3 non-profit organization,
and enjoys outdoor activities,
nature photography, Pilates and
adult gymnastics.
Chemical Dangers
SEPTEMBER 27, 2007 - PUBLICATION DATE NOT KNOWN
RIST, AN ONLINE PUBLICATION covering enviro issues with a pro- ing from legislators and their staff.
G green bent, had this series on parenting and protecting yourself and
your wee ones from potentially dangerous chemicals that wind up in all Here are the details from their
sorts of consumer goods. They focus on chemicals that mimic hor- press release:
mones, which can affect learning, development, fertility and all sorts of
rather important stuff. Groups Sponsor Free Toy
Testing For Toxic Chemicals
Also this week, the Natural Resources Defense Council released it's Legislators and Media Invited to
own research on the presence of phthalates in air fresheners (phthalates "Bring Your Kids' Toys to Work
are chemicals used in plastics and fragrances and one of the chemicals Day"
highlighted by Grist).
What: The Washington Toxics
NRDC, Sierra Club, Alliance for Healthy Homes and the National Coalition and the Toxic-Free
Center for Healthy Housing also filed a petition asking the Legacy Coalition are sponsoring a
Environmental Protection Agency and the Consumer Product Safety free toy testing day for legislators
Commission to more strictly regulate the air freshener industry. and their staff at the State Capitol in
Olympia. Toxics experts will be
From Jane Kay at the San Francisco Chronicle: testing toys brought in by legisla-
tors, staff and members of the
Scented sprays, gels and plug-in fresheners offer no public health media using a special tool, called
benefits yet contain harmful chemicals linked to breathing difficulties, an XRF Analyzer, which can detect
developmental problems in babies and cancer in laboratory animals, toxic heavy metals like lead and
according to the petition sent to the two federal agencies. cadmium as well as PVC (vinyl).
Members of the media are invited
Air fresheners from Walgreens had some of the highest levels of to bring up to three of their chil-
phthalates and in a rather surprising move, the company pulled them dren's toys for testing too.
from their shelves vowing to do testing and reformulation to cut the
phthalates. A staff scientist from the
Washington Toxics Coalition will
Keep in mind some of these chemicals are found in items specifi- be available for a short demonstra-
cally targeted to little kids. So Washington enviro groups are holding an tion and questions at 11:30 on
event next week in Olympia where they're accepting kid items for test- Thursday, September 27, 2007.
When: Thursday, September 27, safety issue. SEATTLE PI obvious-

2007 11:30 am - 2:00 pm ly shows a common and unfortu-
nate lack of attention to detail and a
Where: The First Floor Briefing fear of all 'nasty chemicals'that are
Room of the John L. O'Brien hard to pronounce.
Building
The kinds of products that can

be tested include: Plastic, wood, or
metal toys, especially those that are
painted; Costume jewelry; Items
that may be PVC (vinyl) - including
rain coats, plastic teethers, rubber
duckies and other bath toys, diaper
covers, bibs, and mattress covers.
Posted by Lisa Stiffler at

September 21, 2007 4:24 p.m.
Categories: Consumers and the

environment, Toxics
Comments
#54308Posted by unregistered user

at 9/26/07 11:44 a.m.
I'm in the "evil industry" so I

can't post my name.
Many of us heard of this 'sci-

ence' over the last 5 years.
The IFRA has commented on

many valid fragrance concerns,
even to the point of demanding
removal of certain fragrance ingre-
dients because of LACK of data.
Phthalates had not been a part of
the last 42nd Amendment.
This sounds like a fund-raiser

issue for NRDC more than any real

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