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Article history: This study is to explore and examine the sense of place in the Malay world. The purpose is to unfold and
Received 15 March 2012 unveil the aspects and characteristics of what and why place is. This study is expected as a contribution to
Received in revised form date 23 April 2013 theory of landscape design and the built environment. In what extent is the place able to carry out and
Accepted 17 May 2013
sustain its function and meaning for urbanism? Scrutinizing and examining concepts related to the phe-
Available online 1 July 2013
nomena of building and dwelling will be the focus of this essay. The aim is to recognize the sense of place
for local people observed from planning and design perspective on what they call it as home. The study is
Keywords:
carried out from the author eldwork in the region from 2010 to 2013. The data were collected with par-
Urbanism
Society
ticipant observation as the authors life and work experience, supported by literary sources.
Culture 2013 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
Malay world
Place
History
The Malay world The root of the sense of place in this country is likely the
necessity for dealing with differences with geographically
Pre history of habitation in the Malay Peninsula was a shared domains, instead of trying intentionally to integrate
long story of empty land except small populations, which all in a common space.
were probably descendants of Hoabinhian hunter-gather- Since the British colonial era, each racial group has been
ers known as orang asli (see also Andaya & Andaya, 1982, running their own school based on their values and beliefs
p. 9; Bulbeck, 1996, p. 52). However, most ancient popula- system. How people from different backgrounds interact
tions in Southeast Asia shared similar linguistic and anthro- and communicate? The Malay language has been working
pological traces (pp. 2140); they lived on the house on well as their platform because of its simple grammatical or-
stilts, grew rice and millet, domesticated animals, betel der. Since the 15th century, the Malay language has been
chewing, sailed with outrigger vessels, did tattooing for functioning well for traders and merchants in the region
their adult skin with ink, weaved their clothes, moulded (Ammon, 2006, p. 2014). It is not surprisingly, people in
and burnt their pottery. The Malay world today is the socio- the region, regardless their origin and background,
cultural and historical habitation system of the multiethnic understand and know the Malay language as bahasa orang
populations in today Malaysia that geopolitically takes pasar the language of people in the market place. From
place in the areas of former British colony, from the South- this fact, the sharing of meanings for places and domains
east Asian Peninsula to Sabah and Serawak regions in the is made possible by all ethnic groups.
Island of Borneo/Kalimantan. Even though the geographical realms of those who
Historically, the Malay Peninsula was the land of immi- speak, read, write, and understand the Malay language does
grants; most of them came from the regions of Southeast not restrict the Malay world, most ethnic populations in the
Asia archipelago, India, and China. Ethnically speaking, Malay Peninsula as well as in the archipelago have prac-
the Malay world has been plural and the concept of identity ticed the bahasa melayu since the pre-colonial times either
has been always challenging because of this historical fact. for daily interaction or for international trade (see also
Grime, 1996, pp. 71920). However, the Malay world in
this study is limited only for the phenomenon of habitation
E-mail address: bagoes.wiryomartono@gmail.com in the country of today Malaysia.
1877-9166/$ - see front matter 2013 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ccs.2013.05.004
218 B. Wiryomartono / City, Culture and Society 4 (2013) 217227
Indeed, the variety of customs and tradition does exist in mon laws system. This treaty is considerably the turning
the Malay Peninsula in terms of arts, designs, and culinary. point of formal relationship between the British and the
However, on cultural values they hold to similar principles Malay States (Andaya & Andaya, 1982, p. 157). Neverthe-
in the context of nilai-nilai murni or original virtues (Subr- less, the Pangkor Treaty conrms that the British colonial
amaniam, 2008; Baba, 2009, p. 180). Most of the virtues are ofcers are the primary economic and administrative
well conserved in the form of poems, idioms, and proverbs. advisors of the Royal Malay households (Gullick, 1969, p.
In this case, the Malay language is the house of intrinsic 53).
meanings and messages. The relationship between the British colonial adminis-
The existence of the Malay world takes place in various tration and the Malay sultanates was actually quite formal
built environments that consists of house, village, urban in a strictly business relationship. The British was subtly
areas and places. Each place has its unique uses and designs acting as the protector and trustee. The Malay rulers were
that build, establish, maintain, and sustain habitation. The not able to manage the territorial economy without any ad-
Malay speaking populations used to live in various places vice and direction from the British ofcers. Moreover, the
of the Southeast Asian archipelago. Traditionally, their set- practice of colonialism by the British was based on the
tlements are organized with a village polity called kampung principle of divide and rule (Rappa & Wee, 2006, p. 32).
(Ghazali in Blunnel, Parthasarathy, & Thompson, 2013, p. In doing so, the British rule left various ethnic groups be-
122). Houses for the Malay speaking populations are archi- yond the Malay populations, such as Chinese and Tamil
tecturally simple single detached house with gable roof people, in their own worlds. As formulated with such a
form. Bamboo and timber are common material they use treaty, the British colonialism held the divide and rule
for the house construction. In the Malay Peninsula, all hab- government business (Khan, 2006, p. 140) and stayed away
itations take place on the land of kampung as a common from adat and religious affairs. In this case, the British is in
property. The village assembly and the village head have charge for government matters while the Sultanates take
the right to assign the spot of the house for village house- care for religious and sociocultural affairs. With such a
holds. Commonly, the head of the village has a privilege treaty, the British had actually taken over the political con-
to occupy a strategic place for his home so that he can over- trol of the Malay sultanates over their land and resources.
see and control the territory visually. The traditional Malay What was left for the Malay sultanates was likely nothing
world is the world without domination of land by any pro- but their symbolic authority on indigenous culture, cus-
prietor. The origin of land claim as property or wealth had toms, and traditions.
never happened until the British colonial empire controlled Since 1895, economically and politically, the land was
the different areas of the Malay world. not under the control of the Malay states, but under the
As a phenomenon of habitation, place in the Malay British centrally bureaucratic authority in Kuala Lumpur.
world is a historical and sociocultural realm that develops However, the use of the areas beyond the already occupied
and sustains unique customs and traditions. Contextuality lands by the indigenous or Malay people remained as it
in this respect is more than just a network of relations was. The British had more interest in opening opportunities
but it includes local values and potentials that work and of the uncultivated land for plantations. In its practice, the
t well in its environment and society. The relationship be- British colonialism in the Malay world can be divided into
tween place and people in the Malay tradition is under- three categories (Lange, 2006, pp. 1845). The rst was a
stood under the notion of adat istiadat, literally meaning direct trade control over the three city-colonies: Penang,
customary laws. Each place has its own adat istiadat, be- Malacca, and Singapore. The second was the direct political
cause place is always associated with the built environ- control over the nine Federated Malay States: Selangor,
ment or man-made domain with sociocultural habitation. Perak, Kelantan, Negeri Sembilan, Johor, Perlis, Kedah,
In the Malay speaking world, the words for space and place Terengganu, and Pahang in 1895. The third was indirect
have different meaning. The Malay concept for space is ang- political control over the Non-federated Malay States, such
kasa; it is not to signify a domain or room. Space in this as Serawak and Sabah, between 1909 and 1914.
sense is indenite entity, without boundary, and open. On Even though the Dutch had controlled Malacca and
the contrary to space is room; the Malay word for room other parts of the Malay world since the mid of 17th cen-
is ruang meaning connement, domain, and space in be- tury, the Dutch VOC did not intervene into the local affairs
of the Malay states. Indeed, the Dutch and the British were
tween. Ruang is potentially occupied area with specic
in competition for the commercial control of the Straits of
use and design, which is usually for people or things.
Malacca since early the 17th century. The Dutch VOC in
Since the British colonial era, the use of the land has
Malacca did not penetrate into agricultural business, but
been being regulated and administered by the state. Unlike
more focused on commercial trade control at the coastal
the Portuguese empire in Malacca, the British colonial rule
areas of the archipelago (De Witt, 2007, p. XVIII). Indeed,
regulated and administered the land by using and main-
the expansion of Dutch and British colonialism into the
taining relationship with the indigenous rulers. The colo-
agricultural business took place in the midst of the 19th
nial practice of the British Empire since the period of Sir
century, when coffee, tea, rubber, and tobacco became
Stamford Rafes was unique, which was based on the con-
worldwide commodities in European market.
cept of defeating the local rulers, then bringing them for
treaty agreement, and controlling the commercial interest
in their regions. The British colonial power had achieved Tempat
the full control over the Malay world in 1874; the Malay
sultans signed the Pangkor Treaty authorizing the British General concept for place in the Malay speaking world
to govern the land and its resources under the British com- is tempat meaning literally location, site, container or
B. Wiryomartono / City, Culture and Society 4 (2013) 217227 219
something to ll in. The design of tempat has to comply During the day, female house members occupy the room.
with the content. As container, tempat is not only for hu- In many cases, parents build their bedroom inside rumah
man beings and things, but it includes also the invisible, ibu domain. The hearth of the house is constructed at the
the inaudible, and the inexhaustible (Tim Pengembang rear part whilst the front side is for reception hall called
Ilmu Pendidikan FIP UPI, 2007, pp. 3901). Tempat is inclu- beranda. Unlike the rear part, the front area is an open
sive for the known and the unknown as well as for the structure dened with perimeter railing structure (Fig. 1).
material and spiritual world. The Malay beliefs system The modern house in Malaysia is mostly not built in tra-
acknowledges that every being has spirit, semangat; the be- ditional way, either in terms of design, construction and
liefs roots in the ancient animism of the Austronesians (see building material. Unlike the traditional home, the modern
also Reid in Bellwood, Fox, & Tyron, 1995, p. 341). The no- house is developed and constructed with rational and prag-
tion of tempat has been always intentional and functional. matic approach. The evolution and transformation of house
There is no tempat for nothing and without peace; it has form and design is in the line of the best practice for afford-
something to do with life and the world. ability and technicality. Industrially fabricated components
As a container and location as well, tempat is not empty are commonly used in the building system of modern hous-
but it is believed to contain a spirit or power; this beliefs ing development. The modern plan is architecturally drawn
dated back to Animism (Frisk, 2009, p. 102). Regarding its from the appropriateness of owners budget, rational form,
unique function and relationship with specic site, the con- practical construction, and appropriateness with municipal
cept of tempat is elaborated as tempatan in its use for regulatory requirements. In contrast, to traditional houses,
depicting locality and contextuality. Human settlement is modern houses have to comply with building codes for
commonly understood with the concept of tempat tinggal safety, security, and health.
meaning literally place to stay. In traditional way, the Even though the architecture of the traditional and mod-
Malay tradition calls the place to stay as tempat duduk or ern houses is barely similar, they seemingly share the same
the place of seat. Home for Malay tradition is identical with value in honouring the guests in the house. In Malay tradi-
the place of seat. The smallest unit of habitation is the place tion, guests are necessarily treated with honour and dig-
of family seat called rumah. nity. In traditional houses, guests are welcomed in
beranda, a veranda with open views and outdoor environ-
Rumah ment. Most modern houses do not have veranda for safety
reason; they provide the guest room inside with special de-
Rumah is house, home, and place to stay. The idea of ru- sign treatment. Urban houses are built and situated within
mah in the Malay culture is deeply rooted in the existence an architecturally planned system of neighbourhood. The
of household and family. The basic condition of design for a relation of the house to others in Malaysian urban areas
rumah is the necessity for having a hearth, dapur, veranda, is, of course, not like in traditional way. Most houses today
beranda, and living area, rumah ibu. Traditional Malay belong to a neighbourhood system or a residential com-
house is built on stilts. The Malay house is architecturally plex. The common types of house in Malaysia are terrace
adaptive to tropical climate with high humidity and heavy houses, live-works, apartments, and condominiums. The
rainfall or monsoon between September and March season terrace houses vary in their form from bungalow, duplex,
(see also Asiapac Editorial, 2003, p. 81; Lim, 2011). The triplex, quadplex, and row arrangement. Terrace in Malay
main part of the house is called rumah ibu, which is literally word is laman meaning literally a yard, eld, or open space.
meaning the mothers home. House in Malay tradition is Terrace house is rumah with laman where family can use it
also associated with mother and women in terms of orang as play ground, ower garden or multipurpose uses.
rumah meaning literally somebody taking care the house Today, modern houses in urban areas have various
and home. types: single-detached, semi-detached, row houses, multi-
The living area, rumah ibu, occupies the most part of the family mid-rise, and high-rise residential. The transforma-
house plan. The use of the room is actually multipurpose. tion of design has been taking place since the colonial
times until nowadays. The most crucial part of the transfor-
mation happens in the elaboration of living area of the
house, which is traditionally known as rumah ibu meaning
literally home of mother. This particular part has been
being developed and elaborated to accommodate new
needs for home entertainments, new appliances, and furni-
ture. Unlike the traditional houses, modern Malay homes
are subject to be integrated with a planned community in
terms of mukim or taman.
is an egalitarian body with customary laws, adat that be- mutually understanding basis. In many cases, the extension
comes a system of ethics and aesthetics for the whole vil- of house or building a new construction is subject to the
lagers. The elders sit together in a village assembly to approval of the village assembly. The meeting of elders will
maintain, and sustain their customary laws. Customs and determine and choose the location and schedule of volun-
traditions demonstrate how adat works in the village tarily work for the construction. The Colonial rule has chan-
(Abu Bakar, 2002, pp. 1179). Sanctions against adat are so- ged the status of the land of kampung. Their land is claimed
cial and economic punishment in terms of ne or inclusion to the property of the state, and they have to pay the prop-
from village activities. erty tax to the government.
The chief of traditional village, penghulu, is usually an el- The concept of neighbourhood has evolved from kam-
der of customary laws with hereditary successors (Osman, pung to mukim. This evolution took place after the transfor-
1985, p. 60). The assembly of elders guards the moral or- mation of state/governance system from Hindu negara to
ders and ethical conducts and manners in the village social Islamic sultanate. The transformations took place in almost
life. The authority of the village chief needs the conrma- parts of the Malay world between the 16th and 17th cen-
tion and consensus of the assembly that includes the right tury. This was the period when intensive commercial inter-
to stay and work in the village. Even though the land is a actions between the indigenous populations and the Arab
common property, the traditional right to build a house and Persian traders and scholars took place in most coastal
in a traditional village is the married status of the couple settlements along the Straits of Malacca.
according to adat. The sense of place in traditional sense The Arab and Persian traders introduced the concept of
is impossible without the conrmation of customary laws, mukim as a settlement unit consisting of a community cen-
adat. tre, houses, and educational institution. The heart of the
Today, village heads in rural areas are less powerful than mukim is the mosque. The other facilities in the community
during the Pre Colonial times; they are today the represen- centre area are the commercial place for grocery and con-
tatives and ofcers of the state. The British colonial rule venient goods, runcit, and schools, madrasah. The common
changed the political status of kampung from an indepen- population of a mukim is 5005000 populations or 100
dent village republic to be part of the state administrative 1000 households. During the adoption of Islam by the
structure. Consequently, villagers in rural areas and urban states, mukim, became the administrative institution of
citizens are now not to elect their leaders for their penghulu. kampung in urban areas. The inclusion of kampung into a
The state will take care for the ofcers who will supervise state administrative status was signied with the institu-
them within the framework of Jawatan Kuasa Kampung, of- tionalization of mukim as a settlement unit of town, kota,
ce for political affair of kampung. Every neighbourhood or city, bandar.
should have a penghulu for socio-political and cultural af- The concept of mukim as an urban neighbourhood unit
fairs, and an amil or ustadz for Islamic religious affairs; they had been established and developed in Islamic state of
represent the state for this community. Samudra Pasai Aceh since the early 14th century. Acehnese
The land of traditional kampung is a communal property. concept of mukim is still in existence until today in various
Group of people originally developed the land by opening towns and cities. The most important thing of mukim lies in
the forest. They worked together on voluntarily basis from its socio-political structure that incorporates Islamic princi-
the site clearing to house construction. The boundary of the ples for civil society based on social justice and equality. To
land was never a wall-like structure, but a natural area certain extent, Islamic teaching puts the feudalistic and
where they are able to plant fruits and vegetables, or to bureaucratic state in question (Weiss in Hasan and Weiss
domesticate animals for their livestock. In many cases, ur- (Eds.), 2012, p. 140). However, by the inclusion of mukim
ban populations were originally migrants from other places into state administrative system, the other necessity of
in the archipelago and other places in China and India. communitys life, such as safety, protection, and welfare,
The evolution of kampung from its mode of production has deemed, and diminished such question.
took place in the Malay world with various histories. The The head of mukim in Aceh and in the Malay world was a
ancient kampung was characterized with the mode of pro- state ofcer; he and the religious clerics, ustadz worked to-
duction based on hunting and gathering as well as forest gether to lead the populations of mukim for being loyal and
slash and burn for their paddy. The populations of ancient supportive to the state; the highest authority of religious
villages in Malaysia are well known as orang asli or the and sociocultural affairs is the Sultan of the respective
aborigines who mostly live and work in the hinterland for- state. The mukim in the British colonial times did not
est of the Malay Peninsula. The other kind of kampung is an change its dependent status on the state. However, the
agriculture based community who cultivate wet-rice pro- British restricted the authority of the Malay states over
duction; most populations are migrants from various their mukims, which was only for sociocultural and reli-
places in the archipelago and Southeast Asian mainland. gious matters. Political and economic matters of the mu-
In contrast to the kampung orang asli, the agricultural based kims were under control of the British colonial authority.
kampung is a dynamic community with various occupa- Today, taman is a common notion for a neighbourhood
tions and division of labour. Most urban settlements in or subdivision in Malaysia nowadays (Fig. 2). In Johor
the Malay world were the outcome of such kampungs with Bahru, the structure and layout of the neighbourhood
various adjustments from agricultural production to ser- consisting of pair of terrace row houses with a back lane;
vices and commercial activities. the row usually comprises 812 houses, depending on the
In rural regions, the area of land within the community house type and income category. The basic principle for
of kampung is a communally conned territory; no one the neighbourhood planning is the applicable density
owns the land, but they may use and share the land on for residential use in the area. Commonly, the density of
B. Wiryomartono / City, Culture and Society 4 (2013) 217227 221
privilege to certain populations in the country is likely un- acculturation between Chinese and Malay culture and tra-
healthy for the long-run business because such a practice dition in various urban settlements in the Malay world
will weaken the competitiveness of Malay natives, locally have brought about new things and events, such as baba-
and globally. However, under current administration such nyonya phenomenon in Malacca (Wan Teh, 2011, p. 32).
a practice is still in effect (BBC News 11/07/2011).1 Foods, clothes, architecture, and language are the vivid
Today, the concept of kota has been replaced by bandar. examples and evidences of this phenomenon. Moreover,
The idea of bandar is originally from the Persian word ban- Chinese and Malay culture shares similar values for man-
dar, which means crowd, port, exchange, and gathering. ners and respect to elderly persons and ancestors; of
Bandar represents more about the concept of open urban course, they have the differences as well, but they can live
settlement for international interactions. Indeed, history with it based on mutual respect and tolerance.
of bandar is the evolution and amalgamation of multicul- In similar ways, the intensive contacts and interactions
tural interactions and communications at the coastal vicin- with Muslim traders and scholars since the 15th century
ities. The phenomenon of bandar reveals and unveils the have led the Malay and Chinese populations to be more
acculturation of various culture, traditions, and customs open for differences. The contribution of the Arabs and Per-
with the exchange of communities as its core activity. sians to urban life in the Malay world included poetry,
Prior to the arrival of the Indian, Arab and Persian trad- Arabic literacy, culinary, medicine, and Islamic culture.
ers and merchants, coastal areas and settlements in the Arabic musical instruments and melody contributed to
Straits of Malacca had been crowded by Chinese traders the formation and development of the Malay gambus and
and workers who emigrated from the mainland China to gajal musics. Architecturally speaking, the Arab and Persian
various coastal areas in Southeast Asia. They came to the presence did not impose their building tradition for mos-
Malay world in different periods. Gradually, the Chinese que or surau in the Malay world. The strong inuence of
populated most coastal settlements and contributed to Arabic culture on Malay populations includes madrasah,
the liveable socioeconomic activities with Chinese gastron- calligraphy, Al Quran recital, and fashion. Calligraphic arts
omies, design, medicine, manners, fashions, styles, cus- decorate most interior walls of surau and mosques, while
toms, and traditions. Chinese populations in the Straits of madrasah becomes the centre of Islamic education for the
Malacca regions came from various classes and back- Malay children.
grounds. This diverse milieu and backdrop prepared and Prior to the 19th century, mosques were not built with
developed the settlement of bandar to be economically dome structure. Earlier mosques from the 17th century
and culturally open for all nations. such as in Kampung Laut, Kampung Halu, and Tangkera
Malacca in the period between the 15th and 16th cen- were constructed with local architecture (Fig. 3). Islamic
tury was probably the most highly populated city in the teaching did not dictate local populations to build their sur-
Malay world with Chinese populations who spoke Hokkien au and mosque with Arabic or Persian or Gujarati architec-
and Chaozhou. Even though the interactions with the indig- ture. The architecture of surau and mosque was a local and
enous Malay populations were less intensive, the presence practical matter that was in the hand of local community.
of Chinese community brought about the city liveable Since Islam is not a clerically organized religion, each kam-
in terms of street life and commercial exchanges. Some pung had a freedom to express and articulate the design
Chinese populations adopted Islam as their beliefs system; and construction of surau and mosque according to local
some remained with their own Confucian tradition and conditions and context.
way of life. Prior to British Colonial administration, surau and mos-
The history of Chinese presence in the Malay world was que are independent from state; the local community of
unique for the formation of urbanism because it marked kampung took care and upheld the socio-religious activities
out the beginning of global encounter and interaction with their own. Some rich merchants, orang kaya, in the
based on fair and peaceful relationship. The Chinese contri-
bution to the urban form in Malacca, Penang, and other
places in the Malay world was obviously known from the
establishment of shophouses that dened the street space
and urban block structure. The historical Chinese settle-
ment in various bandars demonstrated an architecturally
adaptive design in dealing with high density living. Chinese
shophouses exemplied the design solution and treatment
for a compact and highly concentrated urban settlement. In
the art of living, the Chinese culture enhanced and elabo-
rated the local Malay tradition to live with furniture and
the use of porcelains in the household habitation.
The presence of Chinese populations in the Malay urban
life has enriched and enhanced the urban experience in
the Malay world with unique architecture, pottery, culi-
nary, street life, festivals, and celebrations. The blend and
1
http://www.malaysia-today.net/mtcolumns/newscommentaries/41919-malay-
sias-ali-baba-system-causes-ethnic-tension (BBC News 11/07/2011), retrieved on
February 24, 2012. Fig. 3. Mosque of Kampung Keling in Malacca, photograph by author.
B. Wiryomartono / City, Culture and Society 4 (2013) 217227 223
kampung donated and supported the function of surau and presence, the Portuguese deployed their sailors, traders,
mosque. Kampung was usually provided with an assembly merchants, and Catholic missionaries in the city of Malacca,
of leaders called majlis, which was responsible for socio- mingling with the indigenous populations.
religious matters. Pre Colonial states did not take control Socioeconomic interactions began to be more intensive
over kampung activities. What was important for the state when Portuguese population from other parts of the route
was that kampungs and other settlements paid annual trib- to Europe, such as from Goa, Mozambique, Cape Town
ute of land production, hasil, other tolls and taxes of com- came to Malacca to set up their business and established
mercial transactions,cukai, to the state treasury, bendahara. their Catholic churches. Portuguese military post in
Of course, paying tribute to the state was a sign of loy- Malacca controlled the port for custom duties and repre-
alty. In return, the state protected and guarded the popula- sented the Portuguese authority in Southeast Asia during
tions for their safety and social order. The highest authority the period between 1511 and 1645. Unlike the Spanish
for state police was tumenggung who stood with bendaha- Empire, which established a municipal government, ciud-
ra,state treasury, as the highest rank state ofcers of the ades and villa de espanoles, at their colonialized territory,
Malay sultanate. In many maritime states such as Malacca the Portuguese did little for this matter (Newitt, 1986, p.
(14051511), there were at least four highest-ranking of- 54). Since 1511, more and more local and Chinese mer-
cers at the Sultanate bureaucracy: tumenggung, bendahara, chants avoided to do business in Malacca. They moved
laksamana, Navy commander, and Syahbandar, Port author- to other places and kept distance from the Portuguese
ity. Traditionally, most syahbandars were Chinese persons. control.
Prior to 1511, the city of Malacca had at least four syahban- The other European presence in the Malay urban settle-
dars authorizing certain ethnic areas and commodities. ments was the Dutch. The contribution of the Dutch in ur-
Prior to the 16th century, the Chinese traders dominated ban development was obvious in the city of Malacca after
the commercial activities in the Malay world for agricul- they took over from the Portuguese in 1641. The Dutch
tural products, tin mining and plantations; they usually overlaid or did inll the given site with their facilities and
occupied the strategic area at the downstream and devel- urban institutions, and they did not destroy or demolished
oped their settlement there. At the downstream, the the previous Portuguese buildings, but readjusted, modi-
Chinese bosses cultivated white pepper, nutmeg, onion, ed, and reused with similar function. In the context of
and garlic; all these were important commodities for inter- urbanism, the Dutch valued a compact settlement, and con-
national trades. Indeed, the Chinese interest in business centrated their effort around their fortied garrison. The
with Southeast Asia was more than just spices; bird nest, Dutch established a colonial town authority and built their
rattan, dammar, rubber blood, and coconut belonged to city hall, called Stadthuys at the inner city of Malacca. The
the demanded commodities in China. In return, the Chinese Dutch settlement was developed at the west side or the riv-
merchants delivered silk, gold, and porcelains. er of Malacca. A bridge was rebuilt to connect the Sta-
The presence of Chinese populations was mostly part of dthuys and the Dutch settlement. Shophouses and row
the peace agreement between the Chinese Ming emperors houses established a new urban block system with stone
and the local rulers for trades; the Chinese navy protected paved streets and drainages. The street and building struc-
the straits of Malacca for safe and fair trades in the Malay ture remains the same until today with signicant
ports. In return, the Malay state of Malacca allowed Chinese improvement in the quality of its building construction.
migrants living and working in the city free of taxes. Occa- The Dutch introduced to the Malay world an urban row
sionally, exchanges of tributes and presents, cindramata, housing system that supported the city with a compact
took place between the Chinese Emperor and the Malay form.
Sultanate. Since early of the 16th century, the situation The inux of Dutch populations to Malacca from various
was changed, the Chinese Emperor withdrew their military places of the East Indies and other colonies took place be-
presence signicantly in Straits of Malacca and South China tween the 18th and 19th century. During the period, the
Sea due to the inner crises in the top rule. Dutch did not include the Portuguese descendant village,
The success of the Portuguese sea power was mostly Chinese and indigenous settlements within the jurisdiction
supported by the absence of Chinese sea power on the of Dutch law system. Instead of integrating such settle-
Straits of Malacca after the decline of the Ming dynasties ments into their municipal system, the Dutch kept and
with its peak in 1587 (Huang, 1982). The fall of Malacca authorized such settlements having their own customs
was important evidence on the dependency of the Malay and traditions; however, the Dutch rule controlled the
State on the protection of Chinese emperor. After the Portu- political and economic activities of such settlements. The
guese took control over Malacca in 1511, the military primary concern of the Dutch at the mid of the 18th and
authority burnt down all the heritage of the Malay Sultan- early of the 19th century was to control the opium
ate on the Malacca hill. They began to erect and establish business.
the fortication known as A Fomosa on the former site of After 1895, the British took over the control of the econ-
the Malacca Sultanate palace area. The Portuguese dug a omy in the Malay world. The European colonialism was ex-
canal connecting between the river of Malacca and the tended with the separation between state affairs and
straits of Malacca, separating the A Fomosa from the main- religious and cultural matters. More importantly for the
land of Malacca. economy was the abolishment of slavery in many regions
The intervention of Portuguese power in urbanism was under the British control. The slaves in the Malay world
to destroy the Malay state which was inseparable from were mostly the landless working class and worked for
the establishment of their trade post in Southeast Asia as their chief or ruler because of debt bondage. In many ways,
well as the Catholic missionary founding. Like the Chinese the abolishment of slavery was disadvantageous for local
224 B. Wiryomartono / City, Culture and Society 4 (2013) 217227
ruling classs economy, especially in coconuts, and rubber city centre are Old City City Hall in 1896, Masjid Jameek
plantations. in 1906, and High Court in 1912. The British colonial archi-
Since early of the 19th century, the establishment of the tecture in the period between 1900s and 1930s shows an
British Colonial rule was concentrated for the enterprise of attempt to establish stylistic and artistic bond between In-
plantations and mines for European market. The urban dia and the Malay world. Hubback is a notable British colo-
development under the British Colonial rule was not only nial architect with his creative elaboration of brick wall
to build the infrastructure for mining and plantation busi- architecture. His design is apparently adaptive to tropical
ness, but also to provide residential areas for their colonial climate, with strong sense of rhythmic interplay between
ofcers and workers. British Colonial ofcers mostly lived void and solid that creates attractive arch shades.
in an architecturally planned area with a bungalow type The other British architect is AC Norman, whose design
of houses. Their construction is adjusted to tropical climate for the Old Post Ofce building is remarkable in making a
and monsoon (Fig. 4). After the British ofcers left the town signicant contribution to a landmark in the inner city of
in 1957, the Malaysian Federated administration took over Kuala Lumpur. All remarkable public buildings with Mugh-
the mining and plantation businesses. The activities in al architecture characterize the inner city of Kuala Lumpur.
some towns,- such as Kuala Kubu Bharu, Taiping, Kampar, At the centre of the city is the square where the British
Gopeng, Batu Gajah, and Ipoh, were gradually declining colonial gentry gathered for playing polo and spent their
and most of people went out of the town for seeking new leisure in their Gentlemen Club House.
jobs. However, some mining towns have been growing as There are several towns and cities in the Malay Penin-
a big city such as Kuala Lumpur and Seremban. sula demonstrating and maintaining the traces of the
The presence of the British colonial rule in the Malay British colonial heritage. Kuala Kubu Bharu was probably
world brought about the regional development with mod- the rst architecturally planned community in the Malay
ern infrastructure. Cities, towns, villages, and important world. Being inspired by Sir Ebenezer Howards Garden
places in the Malay Peninsula were connected within a City movement in England, the town was planned and
transportation network of railways or roads system. The designed by Charles Compton Reade in the end of
British Colonial introduced to the Malay world the impor- 1920s, who had ever worked for Government Town Plan-
tant of roads and railways system for the economy of the ning ofce in South Australia, and left for working for the
region. For the centre of the British colonial administration, Federated Malay States (Hall, 2002, p. 128). Indeed,
the geographical location of Kuala Lumpur was politically Compton Reade was member of Garden City Movement
and economically not strategic without the support of who came to Australia for a design competition of the
roads and railway system. Australia national capital of Canberra in 191112. His
The British began to build and develop railway network planning and design work for Kuala Kubu Bharu intro-
in 1885 (Puffert, 2009, p. 235). Long distance tracks were duced to the Malay world the importance of compact
constructed in 1901 that connected several towns in the community settlement for an industrial town (Fig. 6).
Federated Malay States. Unsurprisingly, most of main rail- His legacy includes the plan and design of residential
ways station is the zero referential point of towns and cit- block consisting of a pair of row houses with a back lane
ies; the centre is marked out with the railway station for utilities.
building. The architecture of railway station buildings is The community of Kuala Kubu Bahru was to establish an
remarkable which is potential and unique as urban land- administrative centre of tin mining business in Selangor re-
mark. The Kuala Lumpur and Ipoh Railway Stations built gion. The town was designed at the foot of Frasers hill
in 1917 for example are the exemplary heritage of Indian (Matsom, 1995). Chinese migrants came to the area in the
Mughal architecture (Fig. 5) in the Malay world. The archi- end of the 19th century working for tin mining. During
tect of both buildings is the English man Arthur Bennison the period between 1930s and 1942, mining activities have
Hubback. His other remarkable buildings in Kuala Lumpur been gradually taken over by plantation business.
The town of Kuala Kubu Bharu was famous for its colo-
nial heritage that comprises shophouses, row houses and
public buildings in a compact cluster. The economy of the
town and its region was in decline after the end of the Pa-
cic war. The communist party of Malaysia concentrated
their activities against the British colonialism in this town;
the British called the era between 1948 and 1952 as the
Period of Emergency that brought about the decline of Kua-
la Kubu Bahru as an administrative town with its economic
backbone relying on tin mining business. Communist up-
heaval in Kuala Kubu Bahru was not an isolated case. Ethnic
tensions, class struggle, and social justice were ostensible
since early times of the British colonialism (Drakakish-
Smith, 1987, pp. 824). The quality of life in this town
did not make any signicant development after British
colonialism handed over their power to the Federated Ma-
lay States in 1957. The economy of the town has been
slowly improving as the historic colonial asset belongs to
Fig. 4. British colonial house in Johor Bahru, photograph by author a touristic industry of Malaysia.
B. Wiryomartono / City, Culture and Society 4 (2013) 217227 225
country was faced with a dilemma of modernizing the con- services, and domestic jobs. In urban development and con-
cept of nation without compromising the delicate ethnic struction, foreign workers ll most laborious positions;
balance of multicultural society (Gomez, 2007, p. 46). The employment agencies arrange and manage rent ats and
question is crucial in Malaysia because all issues on iden- accommodations for such workers. As a whole, the image
tity are inescapable from the fact that ethnically segregated of the Malay towns and cities is multicultural and vibrant
reality demands a new paradigm for a new beginning that during the daily bright leisure evening.
will put in question all privileges and advantages only for Beside its diverse ethnicity, Islamic gender relation
the certain ethnic group (Milne & Mauzy, 1999, p. 167; comes into play in public domains. Women and men sup-
Daniels, 2005, p. 110). To this question, the Malaysian gov- pose not do handshake when they meet. Malay, Indian,
ernment under the leadership of Mahathir Muhammad to and Chinese populations share their value for not hugging
Najib has not yet been ready to lift the Malay benets each other when they encounter each other in public
and advantage. places. Interpersonal interactions in public areas are strictly
polite and quite formal. The common language for inter-
Urban habitation and life style racial communication is mostly Malay language. However,
they know and speak English language to each other as
Dining out in outdoor and in public domains is the most well.
favourable activity in leisure time for most populations in Concerning their existence as a nation, the three major
the Malay towns and cities; they do together with the ethnic groups have been trying their best to live and grow
whole family member in mild and clear evening. Various together, given that their schools are racially segregated
restaurants offer local foods and drinks with their own spe- from early childhood on. One important platform for mul-
cial menu. Interestingly, foods and drinks for the Malay tiethnic interaction for nation building is at the higher edu-
populations have to be stately certied halal and free from cation level such as internationally rank universities, state
pork and lard. With such certication, the Malay could go institutions, and public sectors. The other important public
into Indian and Chinese restaurants or cafes. To certain ex- domain where all ethnic groups mingle together is the
tent, religious barriers and cultural differences do not make town market, pasar awam. Naturally and informally, people
interracial interactions among them easier. Even though interact with each other with exchange of words and
grouping of informal gathering in public domains is based smiles. Unlike malls, not all family members visit market.
on racial identity, they share something in common for Most visitors are from under middle and working class.
peace and tolerance. The Chinese, Indian, and Malay popu- Nevertheless, the real and potential place and process of
lations share the values of mutual respect and tolerance on nation building is probably the market; seemingly, com-
their traditional basis. The Chinese understand the values mon and daily economy speaks volume than ideological
as in the context of Confucianism, while the Malays differences.
hold them as hormat and tenggang rasa according to adat, Indeed, urbanity is not perfect without taking manners
and the Indians value them as in and courtesies of its urban citizens in public domains. The
terms of Dharma. The Malaysian foods are the best evi- way people drive give us the sense of urbanity in this coun-
dence for the practice of mutual respect and tolerance in try is. Tailgating and noncompliance against trafc light are
daily life. common phenomena on some urban areas. Respect to
Nevertheless, the reality of ethnic relations and multi- pedestrians and bikers still needs miles to go with their
cultural society in Malacca is likely not without chal- sustainable development scheme.
lenges and incidences. The Eurasian Portuguese in many Signicant efforts and developments for pedestrian
parts of Malacca area have to face the crisis of status friendly environment have been made in several towns
and identity after the establishment of the Federation of and cities such as Melakas Hang Tuah Mall and Kuala
Malaysia. Even though their existence as a community Lumpurs Bukit Bintang strip and Central Market passage.
in the Malay world has been since the Dutch colonial rule, However, the integration of mass-rapid-transit and pedes-
the integration of their ethnic status and identity into the trian path network is still the work in progress. Surpris-
Malay political party and society is still the work in ingly, such integration seems not apparent for the
progress. governments new towns development such as in Putra-
Even today, the Christian community of kampung serani jaya, Syah Alam, and Iskandar. Private car-oriented life-
remains only the site that carries its name; the residents style dominates mostly public spaces and commercial
of the Eurasian village were not around in the area any- areas.
more. The relationship between ethnic identity and its As anywhere on the globe, malls are the generators of
cultural heritage in today Malaysia is crucial that is neces- trafc ow. Unlike in North America, malls in Malaysia
sarily to be put in the context of power relation with the are not only built in suburban areas, but also become an
predominant Islamic populations. The politics of race in integrated part of urban centre, such as Petronas Twin
Malaysia has not yet come to end until today, but the peo- Tower & KLCC in Kuala Lumpur, City Square in Johor Bahru,
ple on the street interact and communicate peacefully and Grand Market in Kota Bahru of Kelantan. Culturally,
with each other in Malay language regardless their colour malls are also the stage of daily-life spectacle of Malaysian
and origin. societies that represent and signify the colourful ethnicity
The Malay populations mostly occupy public sectors, with their unique symbols and attributes. To certain extent,
while Chinese and Indians mostly run businesses and other the monstrous consumerism of capitalistic machinery
private sectors. Migrant workers ll the gap of occupations, seems to be concealed by the multicultural vibrancy of mall
especially for labour in manufactures, utilities, commercial customers.
B. Wiryomartono / City, Culture and Society 4 (2013) 217227 227
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