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La haute-parfumerie accueille s
C'est en prsence de ses partenaires, lus locaux et fournisseurs, dans notre choix, explique le fondateur
de l'Atelier franais des matires, qui a
que Rmi Pulvrail, inaugurait dbut mai la Technople reu pour cette nouvelle aventure le
soutien financier de la Somudimec
d'Archamps, l'Atelier franais des matires. Un lieu unique en (organisme de soutien aux projets
France reposant sur le principe d'innovation collaborative. innovants, manation du syndicat de la
mtallurgie).
Nouveau spcimen en
L
vue en haute-parfumerie
e lieu peut tonner. Mais
sa situation est pourtant Le projet de lancien directeur des
stratgique: Archamps est achats de naturels de Givaudan se
15 minutes du 2e ple veut prcurseur en parfumerie: crer
d'expertise de la parfumerie: une plateforme collaborative, l'image
Genve. Et l'environnement est propice des FabLab amricains, ouverte aux
l'innovation. La technople nous parfumeurs, marques et passionns
a accueilli bras ouverts, sduite du parfum qui souhaitent crer des
par notre projet. L'quipe Semag, en fragrances d'exception. Nous nous
charge du dveloppement, nous a sommes dots d'un systme informa-
accompagns pour adapter le local tique qui permet chaque parfumeur
une activit parfums. La structure de crer distance mais aussi d'un la-
met aussi disposition sa plateforme boratoire de production et d'analyses
BioPark d'instrumentation d'analyse Archamps pour intgrer toutes les tapes
(chromatographie GC/MS). Autant de fabrication du parfum (pese, matu-
1 davantages qui nous ont convaincus ration, macration, glaage, filtration,
T
he venue may surprise. Yet that corroborated our choice, platform, like American FabLabs
its situation is strategic: explained the founder of the Ate- open to perfumers, brands and
Archamps is just 15 min- lier franais des matires, who re- fragrance enthusiasts who want
utes from the 2 nd perfumery ceived for this new adventure the to create exceptional fragrances.
pole of expertise: Geneva. And the financial support of the Somudimec We have a computer system that
environment is conducive to in- (organization that supports inno- enables each perfumer to remotely
novation. The technology park vative projects, an offshoot of the create his perfume, but we also
welcomed us with open arms, se- Metallurgy Confederation). have a production and analysis
duced by our project. The Semag laborator y in Archamps that
team in charge of the develop- New specimen in sigh integrates all the manufacturing
ment accompanied us to adapt in Haute parfumerie stages of a perfume (weighing,
the premises to a perfume activ- maturation, maceration, chilling,
ity. The structure also offers its The project of the former Naturals filtration, filling) up to the sealing
BioPark analysis instrumentation Purchasing Director at Givaudan of the bottle, explained Rmi
platform (GC/MS chromatogra- intends to be a forerunner in Pulvrail. And to make this full
phy...). A number of advantages perfumery: create a collaborative service business model a success,
2 3 4
the project initiator has surrounded A unique fragrance Grand Cru label was created to 3 DCOUVERTE D'UNE
SLECTION DE
himself with a number of experts, ingredients' palette promote these specific natural extracts. MATIRES
including Jean-Philippe Paris (ex- The start-up will impose its freelance PREMIRES
Payan Bertrand, associated to And to stand out, the Atelier franais nose-collaborators an overdose of NATURELLES AU
PORTEFEUILLE DE
the project) for the technical and des matires relies on a portfolio of these ingredients and has in particular L'ATELIER
scientific part, but also of freelance rare ingredients, most of them pro- for its range a natural/synthetic reverse FRANAIS DES
people like Frdric Penelle (artist duced exclusively for its own use. ratio of 75/25, to create vintage MATIRES.
PRESENTATION OF A
and professor at the Ensav La With my experience of channels fragrances offering a more faceted SELECTION OF
Cambre in Brussels) for graphics, and natural materials, I surrounded profile, with a more intense trail and NATURAL
Laurence Feral for the marketing myself, to start the project, with ten substantivity. With a clear charter INGREDIENTS FROM
THE PORTFOLIO OF
strategy part, the Marcel Franck producers from around the world, for excellence, a streamlined palette THE ATELIER
company for the creation of capable of providing me with the of 250 ingredients, we have made FRANAIS DES
custom bottles. As for Nama most exclusive and noble qualities. the choice of bespoke products and MATIRES.
Kalfane, she supervises sales in Far from being standardized, the limited editions. Its also a way of re-
4 VISITE GUIDE DU
the Middle East region. Building variability of each harvest is for us considering how a perfume is worked LABORATOIRE DE
on the 100% Made in France, the a real added value, that we want to out, of reusing fine natural ingredients PRODUCTION ET
D'ANALYSE
company hopes to attract niche sublimate in creations: the smell of a in a non anecdotal way and to take ARCHAMPS.
perfumery, luxury brands seeking juice will therefore vary slightly from again creative risks, emphasised the GUIDED TOUR OF
to create limited editions, perfume one vintage to another, explained initiator of the project. A return to a THE PRODUCTION
AND ANALYSIS
amateurs, or actors in olfactory Rmi Pulvrail. With this aim in mind, certain artisan vision of the trade that LABORATORY IN
marketing. following the example of wines, a is bound to seduce many... ARCHAMPS.
The global information on cosmetics & fragrances July / August 2015 - No.34