TFA TIE PILOT ARMOUR BUILD INFO SHEET V3

By Rachel Smith TD-2441 UK Garrison

Kevin Brice armour kit - labelled: Updated: 19 April 2016

Forearm tutorial by Jaason Poulin:

Trimmed forearm on the toy:
If the forearm boxes dont quite fit, sand them until they do. Pics: Ash Duffield.

Note the grey ribbed strip - the end with the two dots
close together goes at the wrist end of the forearm.

** Later pulls of this armour have the boxes already moulded

so no need to attach separately. **

Dont forget to Dremel out the square holes in the forearm

boxes!

PTO for finished forearm ref pics

Ive lightened these to show detail. Pics by Jason Poulin.

Left hand and right hand forearms, for square cutout

wrist box reference. The square cutout should
be to the INSIDE of your arm.
Chest and yoke tutorial by Jason Poulin
**NOTE** This part may not apply to later pulls
of the armour.
Chest and yoke pieces
Use earth magnets to help hold the yoke in place on the back piece while glueing. Pic: John
Trowbridge.

Once glue has set, fill and sand until super-smooth. Pics: Ash Duffield

Use carbon fibre 2x2 twill to reinforce the

yokes and make them stiffer.
Use Lexan scissors to trim the side of the chest piece until it matches the other half. Pic: Jason Poulin.

If the yoke edges dig into your shoulders, use

black car door trim to pad the sharp edge, this
could save wear on flightsuit too. Pic: Jason
Poulin.

How it should look.

Pic: Jason Poulin
Chest cutouts aftger armour spraying. Pisc: Jason Poulin

For shoulder piece addition, it should stick out no more than half an inch, or it will push the bells up from
your body. Earth magnets and clamps shown here to keep it in place while glueing. Pic: Ash Duffield
and Jason Poulin
 Trim off the side piece marked with the silver line here. Use curved
Lexan scissors. Pic: Greg Babon

How it should look below. Pic: Jsin Dieron

Shoulder strap placement.

Pic: Jason Poulin

Shoulder strap info an pic from Jason Poulin

Use a Dremel to cut

out slots to put the
webbing into the
shoulder straps. Get
the shoulder straps
from Ash Duffield on
EBP.
Popper and strap guide for attaching chest plate - same as FO TK. Dont pull the yoke together too
tight or the plate wont sit right and you could bend your yokes.

Elastic between the yokes to attach the chest piece to.

Popper and strap guide for attaching chest plate - same as FO TK.

Strapping suggestion for the shoulder blades,

also showing the yoke straps. Note the plastic
piece slotted in to help place the shoulder
bells. Two webbing straps will stop the bell
from slipping back or forward on your
shoulders.

Strapping suggestion for the shoulder

blades, side view of Dremeled holes for
shoulder bell straps plus the plastic tap
to keep it in place. Be careful this
doesnt lift the bells too high off your
shoulders. Not sure if everyone is using
the tab, or just using webbing and
poppers to hold in place.
Pete Bellla reference pics of trimmed and fitted chest armour with helmet for scale.
 Chest box placement and buttons reference. Use
industrial velcro to hold in place, some use earth
magnets.
Pic: Jason Poulin

Hose reference shot showing a black tie wrap

holding the hose in place. There may or may
not be a metal and rubber clamp too (can
anyone verify?), check the EBP Facebook page
for info.

Helmet aerator greeblie attachment. Hollow out and

fit an earth magnet, then put cork inside the gas mask
hose with a second magnet. See SGB video at
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoL6M5f82nQ&fe Pic above from Pete Bella - showing forehead and
ature=youtu.be side slots plus slots under the head visor.

From Jason Watson (SkyGunBro): When cutting out helmet slots - One tip is that I will take a small sanding
barrel/drum on my dremel and go from the inside real light till the resin you want gone is paper thin then
poke out and use a needle file. that way its not so scary trying to dremel out the slot from the front,and if it
gets away from you its on the inside.
Belt and leg straps
Complete belt pouch and leg strap kits are available from Pete Bella on EBP.

Leg and knee strap

Knee strap detail

Top of leg strap that loops round the belt

Belt tutorial by Jason Poulin
How the belt should look.

Guide to the belt boxes. Still collating info as to what goes where! Pic from Pete Bella.

Step 1: determine the placement

of the buckle. Here the choice
has been made to hide the
buckle under the outer rubber
belt and between the two soft
pouches.

Step 2: once buckle placement

has been determined mark the
center of the front of the belt.
Here masking tape was used as a
 Step 2 (after placement was
determined)

Step 3: check placement of front

boxes before making permanent
placement decision. NOTICE this
placement will vary depending
on waist size.

Step 4: measurements for holes

that will will receive the Chicago
Screws, 1" in from sides and 7/8"
center.
Step 5: use a drill the diameter
of the Chicago Screws to drill
out two holes in the back of the
front boxes.

Step 6: measurements for the

smaller right side box, 3/4" from
sides and 7/8" from top. Use a
drill the diameter of the Chicago
Screws to drill out two holes in
the back of the box.

Step 7: measurements for the

taller right side box, 3/4" from
sides and 7/8" from top. Use a
drill the diameter of the
Chicago Screws to drill out
two holes in the back of the
box.
Step 8: sand the area inside the
box where the Chicago Screw
will sit as well as the back side of
screw head. A metal file was
used to scuff the underside of
the screw heads.

Step 9: using the adhesive of your

choice, glue the two Chicago
Screws in place. Zap-A-Gap was
used here for this build.

Step 9 (back side view)

Step 9 (top down view)

Step 9 (one more view)

Step 10: placing the outer

rubber belt is dependent
upon the wearer. For this
build, the outer rubber belt
will cover the buckle and tuck
behind the taller soft pouch
on the wearers left side. For
this purpose, extend the belt
3" past the end of the buckle.

Step 10 (belt placement): be

sure that you can still see the
centering mark on the lower
web belt.
Step 11: using the center mark
determine the "starting"
placement for the first front box.
NOTICE this measurement was
used for this wearer (34"-36"
waist). Depending on the waist size
of the wearer this measurement
may need to be greater or lesser
depending on waist size. It will
need to be adjusted for each
wearer as the placement between
center and sides should be
proportionate to wearer.

Step 12: once "starting"

measurement has been decided,
measure for the two holes for the
Chicago Screws. NOTICE for this
wearer the measures are 1.5" and
3.75" from center.

Step 12 (double check measurements)

 Step 13: repeat for second
box on the other side of
center.

Step 13 (double check all

placements and
measurements)

Step 14: using a hot iron cauterize a

holes through both the outer rubber
belt and the inner nylon webbing
belt. The hot iron will cauterize the
material. Cauterizing the material
will keep it from shredding and
tearing.
Step 14: be sure the cauterized
hole is large enough to place the
large section of the Chicago
Screws through.

Step 14 (side view)

Step 14 (back side view)

 Step 15: check placement of
boxes and mark the right-
side center. Marking of the
right-side center is not
pictured.

Step 15: notice the outer

rubber belt covering the
inner buckle and tucking
behind the taller soft pouch.

Step 16 (right-side center

mark): rough placement of
boxes
 Step 17: from the wearers
right-side centering mark,
measure 7/8" and 2.25" from
mark to indicate the four holes
for the two side boxes. Mount
boxes using cauterized holes
(pic not shown).

Step 18: determine overall

length of outer rubber belt and
trim. OPTIONAL two Chicago
Screws were used to keep nylon
belt from slipping while
wearing. DOWNSIDE if wearer is
lucky enough to shrink waist size
a new outer and inner belt will
be neededsame applies for
expansion in waist size (just
saying, ugh).

Step 19: inside view of attached belt trimmed and

tucked behind the taller soft pouch.

TIPS:
- I recommend painting the boxes prior to gluing
the two sections together in place. Yes, they can
be removed and then paintedhowever if a
Chicago Screw breaks loose while mounting you
will need to damage the painted box to repair.
- it is optional to sew in some velcro to the nylon
webbing belt and to the flight suit to keep belt in
place to stop shifting and drooping while
trooping.
- also optional, as the flight suit material is very
slick against the nylon webbing, velcro may be
attached on the harnesses at the knee wrap, or on
the knee wrapas well as on to the suit at a
determined spotto keep the knee wraps from
dropping to your ankles. (they will drop without
any type of place holder)
Wire up your chest box!
Tutorial coming soon from Jason Poulin. Find all the stuff you need on eBay/Radio
Shack/MaplinsL
REFERENCE PICS