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AUGUST 2017 F O R T H E L I F E YO U V E A LWAY S D R E AM E D O F... completefrance.com

Home cooking DJ-VIEW


Popular French TV
in Charente programmes and
why you should
How an expat food stylist be watching them
found the perfect house
for her cookery school

RENTING
A PROPERTY
What do you
need to
know?

Issue 316 August 2017 3.99

A VIEW OF VERCORS
Rural life in the mountains with the bonus of big cities nearby

REAL LIFE z PROPER T Y z PLACES z ADVICE z LIFEST YLE z LANGUAGE z INSIDER INFO
. 

A crusty baguette and some French cheese


so simple yet one of my favourite
meals, especially for summer picnics

I
really wish I was one of those those keen to improve their culinary
people who confidently throws repertoires. Its certainly given me some
ingredients together, effortlessly food for thought turn to page 54 to find
producing a dish that is not only out more. I think Im going to take Julia
edible but also delicious. The end Childs advice from her autobiography My
result doesnt even have to be that complicated, as Life in France: Learn how to cook, try new recipes,
its often the simplest of meals that offer the greatest learn from your mistakes, be fearless, and above all
enjoyment, and yet Im just not very good at going have fun! I might have to buy the bag that staff writer
off-piste with my cooking. Catriona found this month as a reminder too (p11).
Improving my skills in the kitchen has been on Food is such an integral part of French culture
my to-do list for longer than I care to admit, but after and just one of the many things that make France
interviewing food writer and stylist Louise Pickford so special. For Nia Jenkins Hafsia, its the wonderful
for this months issue, Im feeling particularly inspired. weather and health benefits she enjoys in Dordogne
Its hard not to be, when she spoke so (p30), while for Caryl and Jan Panman, its being able
enthusiastically about creating dishes to make their own wine in Aude
using the fresh ingredients that she picks (p46). What would it be for you?
up at her local market in Angoulme, Do get in touch
and grows in her own garden. She and let us know.
now runs a cookery school
from her home in Charente,
where she shares her passion
and enthusiasm for cooking with Vicky Leigh, Editor

 )% +) %' Claire Winterton Dominic Rippon Susie Hunting


Writes Channel hopping, page 36 Writes A life in the vines, page 46 Writes Soap star, page 30
IVONNEW/THINKSTOCK;

Best way to learn French: Lessons with a Favourite French wine: Good red Best thing about living in Dordogne: There
FELINDA/DREAMSTIME

good teacher are essential, but then you burgundys like Volnay and Gevrey- are so many, but I do love the sense of
have to use what youve learnt in real life. Chambertin really excite me, but as I can continuity here. Sunflowers and wheat are
Moving to a small village was the best way rarely afford these, Im always looking grown much as they were hundreds of years
to make French friends and get talking. out for interesting, less pricey pinot noirs. ago, as are peoples vegetable gardens.

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 3



1!% F O R T H E L I F E YO U V E A LWAY S D R E AM E D O F...

Living France, Cumberland House, Oriel Road, Cheltenham,


GL50 1BB. Tel: 01242 216050. Email editorial@livingfrance.com
completefrance.com
EDITORIAL
Group Editor: Karen Tait
(07753 811905 / karen.tait@archant.co.uk)
Editor: Vicky Leigh
(01242 216086 / vicky.leigh@archant.co.uk)
Assistant Editor: Stephanie Sheldrake
(01242 216008 / stephanie.sheldrake@archant.co.uk)
Staff Writer: Catriona Burns

3+%/n3
(01242 216096 / catriona.burns@archant.co.uk)
Editorial Designer: Jamie Elvin
Digital Editor: Emma Rawle
(01242 216091 / emma.rawle@archant.co.uk)

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4 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


&RQWHQWV AUGUST 2017 ISSUE 316

. % )-
20 Vercors 20
Discover the benefits of rural life
in the mountains with the bonus
of big cities within easy reach

26 Ask the agent


Monique Clment shares her inside
Where to live: Vercors

knowledge of the property market


in and around the Vercors

27 On the market
Our selection of properties for sale
across the Vercors to suit all budgets

28 A locals view
Swapping city living in London for a
cycling business in St-Jean-en-Royans
WIN!
30 46
29 Fact file A family cookery
The essential information and key contacts class on
youll need for a life in the Vercors page 54

40 A tale of two cities


From Reims to Aix-en-Provence, we explore
six French towns twinned with British cities

 ')3
30 Soap star
How a Welsh opera singer became an
award-winning soap maker in Dordogne

36 Channel hopping THE ESSENTIALS


Why watching your favourite TV
shows in French offers so much 70 Renting in 76 New kids 82 Splashing out
more than entertainment
France on the block Make the most of the
Your guide to the rules The legal process of summer weather with our
46 A life in the vines and regulations of renting buying a new-build pick of homes with pools
a French property property in France
Wine expert Dominic Rippon raises
a toast to a globetrotting couple
84 Route map
at their vineyard in Languedoc
72 Renting in 78 Hide and seek All the routes to France in
France: vocabulary How to find your new one place to help you
Essential vocabulary French home with help plan your journey
and phrases to help you from a property finder across the Channel
learn the language

 )   - % 74 Q&A: Ask


the experts
80 Property and
currency news
The latest from the French
86 Property
directory
A guide to the
This month Louise Pickford and Our experts give their advice property market, plus buying process, plus
Ian Wallaces Charente home on wills, French mortgages a currency update properties for sale
Ian Wallace and house surveys and to let in France
COVER STORIES

6 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


16

54
mnn'
j

54 Home cooking
Food stylist Louise Pickford combines
business and pleasure as she opens
62
her own cookery school in Charente

60 Gardening JOIN OUR


Its all about plums this month, plus an
Open Garden in Brittanys Finistre
MAGAZINE
CLUB!
p16
p40
62 Flavours of France Turn to page 64
p12

James Martins recipe for John Dory


with clams and courgettes, and a for details p54
closer look at the syrah grape
p20
p30

n+n .n)k' / p46

65 Language news

)  n!) ')
8 August in France
We review the latest language
The latest news from France plus the
books, apps and websites
events taking place this month

66 Five-minute French 14 Postbag


Test your French with our puzzles
Your views of life in France
WE ALSO PUBLISH

16 Our dream home FRENCH


THE BIGGEST AND BEST UK GUIDE TO FRENCH PROPERTY Issue 317 | July 2017 | 3.99

FRENCH
NEWS

25
years

PROPERTY
of French
property
advice

Won over by traditional features,


SOUTH OF FRANCE
Affordable property
options in the sun
FAMILY
FUN
Weve all played
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our business
PROPERTY NEWS
digital editor Emma Rawle chooses Create
your The biggest and best UK guide
dream Expert advice

home to buying a French property, with


Wealth
With our essential guide Inheritancetax
rules

a farmhouse in Normandy
Buying timeline
to sympathetic renovation Brexit & currency

FREE
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BUYING GUIDES
REAL LIFE STORIES
completefrance.com

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francepropertyshop.com

LEGAL & FINANCE


expert legal and financial advice.
18 Your photos
French-English We share your snaps of France FRANCE
dictionary bookmark Britain and North Americas
when you subscribe 98 Out of touch biggest-selling magazine
She might be a bit behind the times covering everything about French
Turn to page 52
in rural France but Gillian Harvey culture, travel and food & wine.
wouldnt have it any other way

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 7


8 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com
m++') %n

ROBERTHARDING / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO


For a laid-back summers day out, take a meander around the sleepy villages of the Pays dAuge
in Calvados. This land of apple orchards, stud farms and agricultural pastures is dotted with pretty
villages, such as Pierrefitte-en-Auge (pictured), with its historic half-timbered thatched cottages.
And if you fancy travelling back in time, dont miss the Mdivales festival at nearby Crvecur-
en-Auge (6-13 August) where you can feast in a medieval tavern and see jousting competitions.
calvados-tourisme.co.uk
Read on to find out what else is happening in France this month.

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 9


WHATS NEW

News & events


The stories from France that have been making headlines, plus the latest
reviews, travel news and dates for your diary, by Catriona Burns

PAY AS YOU GO
The introduction of the pay-as-you-earn
tax system has been postponed until
1 January 2019.
The PAYE system that covers various
types of income was originally planned
for January 2018 but it has been put
back by Macrons government by one
year to test and evaluate the system.
The new system will replace
the current payment on account
arrangement where taxpayers make
payments on account in the current year
in respect of the last years income.

BEST IN EUROPE
Le Havre in Normandy is among the
top 10 European destinations in 2017
according to Lonely Planets Best in
Europe guide. The travel guide put the
port city in tenth place, praising its
eye-catching modern architecture.

Frances favourite village The guide also heralds Le Havre as


one of the best places to be this
summer largely due to the citys
The Alsatian village of Kaysersberg a village in the department of Haut- 500th anniversary; a five-month-long
has been named as this years Village Rhin has won the title Eguisheim was celebration that ends on 8 October.
prfr des Franais by viewers of the crowned the winner back in 2013. It also praised the citys accessible
popular France 2 programme. Close to a thousand people turned location, saying it was a great base for
More than 2.4 million viewers tuned up on Kaysersbergs village square exploring other parts of Normandy,
in to see the show on 13 June when, for when the result was announced. If from the famed D-Day beaches to the
the first time in the programmes six- past winners are anything to go by, picturesque cliffs of tretat.
year history, viewers voted live for their the village has a lot to celebrate. Last
favourite French village. years winner, Rochefort-en-Terre in
Kaysersberg was followed by Morbihan has reported a 60% increase
St-Valery-sur-Somme (Somme) and in tourists since it won in June 2016. Its
La Roque-Gageac (Dordogne) which hoped that the same boost will be seen
were awarded second and third place in Kaysersberg where 2,700 people live.
respectively. It is the second time that Flicitations to them all!

Open talks
The European Union has said pledged to allow the public to be a priority in the first months. the negotiating documents that
Brexit talks cannot be in secret, see what is being discussed every Talks started on 19 June and are to be made public, he said.
announcing that it will make all step of the way. the EUs chief Brexit negotiator, To see the documents visit:
negotiating documents available Documents to be published Michel Barnier said he intends ec.europa.eu/commission/
on a public website. include those relating to the to maintain a level of openness publications/article-
Calling for maximum commissions position on EU throughout. Were prepared to 50-negotiations-
transparency, the EU has citizens rights, which are likely to have great transparency on all united-kingdom_en

10 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


.n)<<
(')- << Riviera on Sky Atlantic and Now TV.
Ever wondered what its like to be
filthy rich and living the high life on
the French Riviera? Sky Atlantics new
10-part drama suggests its not all its
cracked up to be. Exposing a darker
Leather book bag, 73 by Talk about killing two birds with one side to the Rivieras glitz and glamour,
KrukruStudioBooks, etsy.com stone. This handmade leather book this series is one of dramatic explosions,
bag more than satisfies my penchant fast car chases, lies and designer gowns,
for a pretty hardback, plus it adds to while the sun-soaked south of France
my burgeoning bag collection nicely. appears as gorgeous as ever. Catch it on
Tucked under my arm as a quirky Thursday nights at 9pm.
clutch or swung across my shoulder,
my new favourite sac main will
liven up any old outfit instantly.
I think Julia would approve, too. %<<
Cte de Provence 2016.
Produced in Provence, this ros
won silver at the International

n)%n Wine Challenge and is available


in Aldi for just 5.99.

SCHOOL TIME
Primary schools in France have been
given the option of introducing a four-
n<< 
Michelins Les Plus Beaux
day week instead of the current four and Villages de France map for your
a half days. The minister for education, summer road trip. You might
Jean-Michel Blanquer has revived the not make it to all 156 of Frances
debate on school routines since taking most beautiful villages that are
office in May, saying that there was a listed, but it would certainly be fun
need to spread the childrens time at trying to tick off as many as possible.
school on both a weekly and annual the school schedules towards the end We have 10 copies of Michelins Les
basis. But rather than enforcing a new of 2017 and then give schools the choice Plus Beaux Villages de France map to
policy, Macrons administration wants of implementing the changes by 2018 if give away. For a chance to win visit
to give local communes the flexibility to they so wish. If adopted, it would be the completefrance.com/
choose which timetable suits them best. third change to Frances school system competitions
The current plan is to experiment with in less than 10 years.

WIN!
The closing date for entries is
6 August 2017.

.n)3+)6 Les Plus Beaux Villages de


France, 6.95.

Get rid of homework. School is practise for work, and four


Too stressful. Could days will cause parents problems
be done at school with childcare. Not everyone WEBSITE OF THE MONTH
if really necessary. has grandparents to babysit. Its impossible to look at Lavender and Lovages Instagram
Carole Moody Lorraine Turnbull page and not feel hungry. Mouth-watering images of
blue cheese and saucisson would make any Francophile
hungry for their favourite French food. Thankfully you
can hop on over to the website where Karen Burns-
Turning over a new leaf Booth shares her kitchen tips and recipes from her
home in south-west France. Fingers crossed my attempt
Europes first e-Tree and allows passers-by French-Israeli at her confetti funfetti cake will turn out just as pretty!
has been unveiled at a to charge their phones, start-up Sologic, lavenderandlovage.com
FOTOLIA; LUDOVIC MAISANT

ceremony in Nevers in browse the internet or is inspired by the


the Nivre department. simply enjoy the shade. acacia tree that is
The solar tree has giant It also supplies water found in the Israeli
square leaves that convert and street lighting. The desert and the
sunlight into electricity structure, developed by African savannah.

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 11


WHATS NEW

Dates for your diary


Make the most of everything France has to offer in August,
with our round-up of key events, festivals and travel news

$ n37& ) 7l
Since 1666, the Festival St-Louis brings favourite from the riverside or snag a
the Mediterranean town of Ste in seat at one of the waterfront cafs and
Hrault to life every summer. Taking take in the festivities with a glass of
place this year from 17-22 August, the wine. Theres plenty of entertainment
festival attracts thousands of visitors away from the water too with a plethora
and locals who line the banks of the Le of shows and impromptu performances
Cadre Royal to watch the famous water around the towns streets and squares.
jousting tournaments, a tradition that tourisme-sete.com/fetes-de-la-saint-
is rooted in local culture. Cheer on your louis-sete.html CELTIC CONNECTION
Its Scotlands year at the Festival
Interceltique from 4-13 August. The
Musical Menton annual celebration of Celtic music,
dancing, food and drink attracts
Before summer slips away, Frances oldest classical invites top classical music hundreds of thousands of visitors to the
treat yourself to a classical music events and one of artists to its stage from 28 port of Lorient in southern Brittany. A
open-air music concert, Europes most prestigious. July to 13 August with performance from Scottish singer Amy
such as the Menton Performances take place performances from cellist McDonald is sure to be a highlight, as is
Festival de Musique on the Baroque square Edgar Moreau and violinist the grand parade of the Celtic nations
that takes place on the outside Basilique St-Michel Renaud Capuon. See the featuring more than 3,000 musicians
French Riviera. The festival in the Old Town, where full progamme online. and pipe bands from around the world,
has been going since classical musicians delight festival-musique including the USA, Canada and Australia.
1950, making it one of crowds. This year, the event -menton.fr festival-interceltique.bzh

12 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


Travel news
QUIET ROADS
Paris is to test out new road
surfaces in an effort to reduce the citys
traffic noise and heat. The project will
experiment with three paving systems
that have sound, thermal and water-
retaining properties to help make the
city both quieter and cooler. Its hoped
that the new initiative could cut noise
pollution in the city by 50%.

FLY CHEAPER
Air France is on track to roll out
a new low-cost airline with flights due
to start this winter. Aimed at millennial

Pulling the strings


travellers, the brand is Air Frances
attempt to compete with low-cost
airlines such as easyJet and Ryanair,
Puppet shows have come a long way has an animal theme that is explored providing routes to countries such as
from wooden figures on a string, through puppet performances, musical Italy, Spain and Turkey. The start-up is
as the MIMA Festival des Arts de evenings, workshops and dance events. currently working under the name of
la Marionnette proves. Held in the Tickets are available online from 1 July. Boost but Air France says it will unveil a
medieval town of Mirepoix in Arige A family pass costs 36. new name this summer.
from 3-6 August, this years festival mima.artsdelamarionnette.com
NAME CHANGE
Frances famous high-speed
train network will be rebranded from
TGV to inOui, while the RER will now go
by the name of train. The inOui brand
was rolled out on the Paris to Bordeaux
route from 2 July and the new look will
be introduced across all services by 2020.
A major reason for the rebranding is that
SNCF wants to strengthen its products
in the face of growing competition from
low-cost flights, budget coach services
and long-distance car-sharing. The
company hopes the refresh will help
PHOTOGRAPHE SUIVI DE TOURISME STE; JACQUES MULLER; ELLA CHAZAL; MICHEL JAMONEAU

attract some 15 million passengers to the


rail service by 2020.

SUMMER FLIGHTS
Flybe has launched new
summer routes to France. The seasonal
flights operate each weekend until
3 September as part of the airlines 2017

DANCE OFF
summer schedule. Flights operate from
Aberdeen, Belfast City, East Midlands,
Edinburgh, Exeter, Glasgow, Manchester
More than 60,000 Dancing enthusiasts run by internationally
and Newcastle. Most of the services
people are expected to can tap their feet to a acclaimed professionals.
are new flights to popular destinations
descend on the town of range of different dance Other attractions include
including Avignon, Bergerac Dordogne,
Chteauroux in Indre-et- disciplines, which include concerts for all ages and
Bordeaux, Brest, La Rochelle, Limoges,
Loire from 7-19 August jazz, tango, salsa, flamenco dance shows. Sure to get
Nantes and Perpignan-Rivesaltes,
for its annual dance and even hip hop, at the whole family moving!
Rennes and Toulon-Hyres.
festival, known as DARC. one of the workshops danses-darc.com

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 13


WHATS NEW

  %
Your comments
We love hearing from you, so why not write us a letter,
''+ '
My wife and I were
send us an email, or join in on Facebook or Twitter? a little surprised to
see Living France
perpetuate the
linguistic error commonly made
STARER THIS MONTHS
LET T

I
by the English in Ian Moores
STAR LETTER

WINS
would like to share my tip with you for British column in the July edition in the
expats making the move to France. Like a lot subtitle, the illustration and the
of expats, my wife and I had only a tenuous text! It is not Madame la Maire,
grasp of French when we arrived in France (and but Madame le Maire; it being the
thats being generous). But, how to make French word not the person who has the
friends without speaking their language? gender. Thus Madame le Maire
Of course we took classes in French and studied our was once un bb, who grew into
grammar, but the real key was finding language partners. une personne.
A language partner is someone who is trying to learn Apart from that little slip, we
your language while you are trying to learn theirs. They are getting a lot out of your
will be very patient with you as you make mistakes magazine, as usual.
because they are probably making the same ones. For Martin and Jane Evans
that reason it is important to find someone whose level Haute-Loire and Cambridge
in English is about the same as your level in French.
It works best to focus on one language at a time Thanks for writing to us, Martin
having a conversation in French for a while and then The writer of our Star and Jane, as this grammatical
switching to English. Letter this issue wins a point caused us some
I found that meeting once or twice a week, for an garlic and ginger grater deliberation when we printed
hour or so, really accelerated my learning. And, even set. These attractive the article. You are absolutely
better, most of my language partners became friends, handmade ceramic graters right that Madame le Maire
helping me to integrate into my local community. are gift-boxed and include is grammatically correct, but
How to find a partner? Ive found them in different a garlic peeler and brush. Madame la Maire is becoming
ways inquiring at a local language school, at the tourist gingerandgarlicgrater.co.uk increasingly common. In fact,
office, at the butchers (yes, really!). There is also a Paris mayor Anne Hidalgo is
website you can use called mylanguageexchange.com. quoted as saying Appelez-moi
Keith Van Sickle Madame la Maire.
Provence We would love to hear from
other readers who can share
their experiences of how a
female mayor is addressed in
France. Ed
Follow us on Twitter @LivingFrance
LaFermeDeTroisCoins @PerigordLife Dave Flitcroft
Went to the Labyrinthe Gant in Guret @Artfrombikeshed
yesterday great way to lose the kids Back from an early ride out
for a couple of hours! before it gets too hot! 34C now.

facebook.com/livingfrancemagazine
Emma Spain Monika Danielak
Feeling happy that I decided to open Fantastic place (La Roque-
a B&B in the Prigord. Happy guests all Gageac) we have been lucky This is a photo I took at a
bike race in the
enjoying the weather. Beers and wine every time we have visited and Valle du Sulon in Ste-Tr
phine, following our
chilling for their return. La belle vie! found the brocante going on. long stay in Brittany. Gle
nys Alice Ellis, Bolton

If you have something youd like to share, from anecdotes to holiday snaps, drop us a line at letters@livingfrance.com or write to
The Letters Editor, Living France, Cumberland House, Oriel Road, Cheltenham, GL50 1BB. We reserve the right to edit your letters.
Sign up to our newsletters at completefrance.com

14 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


WHATS NEW

THIS MONTHS
DREAM HOME

ON THE
MA R K E T F O
293,000 R

I love the idea that a house has a history


and a previous use, especially if that former
life is still evident says digital editor Emma Rawle

I
seem to find myself attracted to lovingly transformed into a comfortable holidaymakers, being only a 90-minute
properties that have had a former three-bedroom home by its previous drive from the ferry port at Caen, and with
life. Whether its a converted owners. Even the original cider press is still the attractions of Mont-St-Michel and the
school, chapel or watermill, I love there, housed in an open barn adjoining D-Day beaches within easy reach.
the idea that a house has a history the house that is currently used as a bar Although only five minutes from the
and a previous use, especially if that and games room. medieval town of Domfront, this converted
former life is still evident. So it is perhaps The other advantage of buying a barn would be my rural retreat with two
no surprise that this sympathetically converted barn is the space it offers. Not acres of land and no near neighbours.
renovated cider barn in Orne in Normandy only does the house have three bedrooms However, as the house is so easy to get to
caught my eye. but there is also a two-bedroom gte, plus from the UK I dont imagine it will be long
Its former life as a cider barn is apparent two outbuildings that could be converted before my diary is booked up with friends
from the large doors, stone walls, exposed into extra accommodation. and family coming to stay!
wooden struts and beams, yet it has been The property is in a good location for ahouseinnormandy.com

16 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


Fi am z F
w
dr All
nd h ra
i th

e e

yo om na
ur e is
P9539MS NR LYON / RHNE-ALPES (01) D9584AFD MANCHE (50) P9840AFD SAINT-L (50)
A stunning C19th chteau with 15 bedrooms. Character Extraordinary renovated luxury Priory (origins back to A pretty XV Century Medieval Castle (9 beds) with
features including stained glass windows. Set within an 1189) in the heart of Normandy, with indoor pool, gite many original features including a moat, and resident
area of 3.4 hectares of green park & woodland. and 6 acres of land. black swans.
Price 1,500,000 Price 997,500 Price 880,000

R9731 CONFOLENS (16) P9569AFD CALVADOS (14) P9645 TURENNE (19)


Impressive Manor House nished to an exceptional A superb 17th century farm transformed into a Character house with 4 beds, plus 2nd house (5
standard. 6 en-suite bedrooms & set in 13 acres of successful gite complex. 4 self-catering stone cottages, chambre dhotes rooms), & shop (rental income
attractive grounds. plus the main house with 6 en-suite bedrooms, (21 600 / month). Lying in the shadow of the Chteau
Price 698,250 beds in total). Outstanding business potential. in Turenne.
Price 679,250 Price 495,850

D9829AFD CALVADOS (14) P9586AFD NR PZENAS (34) R9807 SAINT MATHIEU (87)
Magnicent Manoir with detached gite, lake and Superb modern property with 4 beds, pool & Beautiful 16th Century Manor House restored to
elegant gardens just 30 minutes from Normandy outstanding views, easily managed garden. With retain many original features and is full of charm and
beaches. 4 bedroom former presbytery + barn turned exquisite attention to detail, this outstanding property is character, set in parkland grounds of 9400m.
into luxury apartments. immaculately presented. Price 296,800
Price 449,925 Price 298,000

P9795E LOSTANGES (19) R9769 VILLARS (24) P9823E SIONIAC (19)


An attractive 3 bed character property wanting some Attractive barn conversion 2 beds on the edge of a A large building plot of 7,870m with previous CU
TLC to bring alive again. Village situation. Easily village with amenities. The perfect lock up and leave & panoramic views to the south west. Signicantly
managed gardens. Exclusive mandat! holiday home. reduced price.
Price 159,000 Price 140,000 Price 26,500

WWW.ALLEZ-FRANCAIS.COM | TEL: 00 33 553 56 09 35 or 00 33 555 28 46 40 | E-MAIL: CONTACT@ALLEZ-FRANCAIS.COM


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WHERE TO LIVE
Vercors

Pont-en-Royans
overlooking
La Bourne river

20 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


9HU F R U V
9HUWLJLQRXV

For lovers of sport, nature


and history, the Vercors is
the place to be, especially
if you also want the benefit
of big cities nearby, as
Kate McNally discovers

T
heres a little break in the
French Alps where the
northern massif gives way to
the southern mountain range
that is home to some of the
most breathtaking landscapes in Europe.
Approaching from any direction (Die,
Grenoble, Valence) across the low-lying
plains that surround this limestone massif,
its impossible not to look up and feel the
mystical pull of the Vercors mountains
looming ever larger as you progress
upwards and inwards along roads clinging
to the rocky cliff face. There is a definite
feeling of leaving civilisation behind and
entering the wild.

Vercors

AT A
GLANCE
26 Ask the agent
Expert property advice

27 Properties
A round-up of homes for sale

28 Case study
A local expat tells her story

29 Fact file
Useful info and contacts

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 21


WHERE TO LIVE
Vercors

Muse de la Rsistance
du Vercors

Grotte de Choranche

HISTORY LESSON THE BEST OF BOTH


DEPARTMENTS
At the end of the 19th century, The Vercors straddles two departments
The Vercors is perfect for
many young Italian men crossed the on an approximate north-south axis, walking and cycling
border, seeking employment and with the upper half in Isre, the lower
a better life. Many from the Alpine half in Drme, and groups together seven
areas of Italy found work in the territories. There are no main towns in the
Vercors as woodcutters. Missing their region, rather a network of villages which, A NATURAL ADVENTURE
pasta and with meat in short supply, between them, provide the necessary The area has a rich natural heritage,
they created their own style of ravioli, services for the 52,000 inhabitants. including gorges, canyons, caves,
filled instead with local cheese and A principal access route to the Vercors freshwater rivers, pretty valleys, lush
parsley. The recipe was introduced from the west is via the village of Pont- plateaux prairies and forests galore, plus
to the locals, and today, la raviole en-Royans, where the road bifurcates to of course the imposing central massif, all
is an emblematic food of the area, take you to the Quatre Montagnes area via of which are home to diverse flora and
together with walnuts. the wonderful, if slightly scary, Gorges de fauna and several rare species of birds and
Later, due to the fresh mountain la Bourne, or down towards the territory fish. As well as being designated a regional
air, the region became known for of Royans-Drme where the roads open nature park in 1970, the Vercors also
climatic healing, notably for sufferers out to reveal wide pretty prairies against a contains Frances largest nature reserve,
of asthma, tuberculosis and other dramatic mountain backdrop. A key access which stretches across 17,000 hectares
lung-related maladies. Following the point through the ages, Pont-en-Royans protecting a large pine forest and more
Second World War, many children has a fascinating history and is home to than 700 species of flora.
from bomb-hit towns and cities were some remarkable houses built suspended But dont be fooled by this picture of
sent here for restorative care. out over the river on the rock face, wilderness and conservation. This is no
The Second World War marked which was a way of providing increased quiet, rural outback. In fact, the area has
the history of the Vercors massif. accommodation in the village in the busy a busy annual social and cultural agenda
The geographical make-up of the 19th century. and not just for the many tourists who
region renders the Vercors a natural flock there in winter and summer. Locals
fortress, with the lower pre-Alps and visitors alike can enjoy a varied events
plains encircling the high mountain programme and an endless choice of OPENING SPREAD JACQUES84250/THINKSTOCK; THESE PAGES @ SERGE CAILLAULT; THOMAS HYTTE/

cliffs like a belt. Add to this the sporting activities. And should they want
dense forests and hidden caves, and more, Valence and Grenoble are both just
the massif was the ideal place for 50 minutes away by car.
the young partisans of the French Tilly Cresswell, who has lived in this
VERCORS TOURISME; KATE MCNALLY; PHOTOSORIN.COM/VERCORSTOURISME

Resistance to regroup and train, part of France with her family since 2000,
ready to defend the free south from says it was the lure of the great outdoors
the Nazis. adventure that first brought them to
The story of the maquisards, as the Vercors.
Vassieux
they were known, and the tragedy la Rsistance in My husband was a keen climber,
The Mmorial de
that ensued in June 1944, when Tilly explains. He discovered the area by
Nazi forces penetrated the fortress chance on a caving holiday and wanted
to return for the climbing. We fell in love
in gliders and slaughtered injured
fighters as well as the inhabitants of
MORE with the area and eventually followed our
Vassieux, is superbly recounted at
ONLINE hearts here. Its ideal for outdoor types,
both the museum and memorial of Our complete guide to the Auvergne- though you have to be up for an adventure
the Resistance in Vassieux. Rhne-Alpes region as we get all the seasons here, including
completefrance.com/regions-of-france
beautiful summers but also cold winters
with lots of snow.

22 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


Villard-de-Lans ski resort
Skiing in Autrans

SPORT, SPORT AND


MORE SPORT
Inevitably, the regions natural riches are a
major draw for sports lovers who come in
all seasons to practise an incredibly diverse
range of activities skiing (downhill and
cross-country), horse riding, cycling,
hiking, climbing, canyoning, potholing,
paragliding, and theres even a golf course
up on the plateau! Extreme sports are
also catered for (wingsuit flying, downhill villages first mechanised ski lift and the ECONOMY OF THE VERCORS
mountain biking on the ski slopes in creation of its ice hockey team, Les Ours. Despite the mountainous terrain, the
spring/summer) and the huge cliff face at When three villages in the region hosted Vercors has long been linked to the
Presles attracts advanced climbers from all events for the 1968 Grenoble Winter peripheral low-lying areas thanks to the
over the world. Olympics, the Vercors reputation for many passes that traverse the region
In the early 20th century, the Vercors winter sports was sealed, enhanced ever facilitating access, either on foot or
started to make a name for itself as a since by the international success of local horseback. The rivers also provided a
destination for winter sports, and in 1931 sportsmen and women. Today, the Vercors means for transporting goods in the
the world ski championship was held in is a popular family ski destination and past, and regular big markets known as
the village of Villard-de-Lans. The same also has a biathlon centre where many of foires brought farmers and tradespeople
year marked the inauguration of the Frances international biathletes train. together at key crossing points to exchange
their wares. Towards the end of the 19th
century, roads were built, bringing the
One of the most magnificent roads in the Vercors into the modern era and greater
Alps, Combe Laval is carved into the cliff economic development. Agricultural
production gathered pace (hay, livestock,
cheese and butter), mills popped up along
the river producing flour and walnut oil,
while greater exploitation of the regions
forests opened up new markets.
Easier access also heralded the start
of the tourist trade, which revolutionised
the social and economic world of the
Vertacomiriens (inhabitants of the Vercors)
during the 20th century. Many people were
attracted by the areas beauty, others by
the health benefits of the pure mountain
air, and later, many more still by the
incredible array of sporting and outdoor
activities that developed.

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 23


WHERE TO LIVE
Vercors

There is a definite feeling of


leaving civilisation behind
and entering the wild
Today, much of QUALITY OF LIFE
the economy is driven Laurent and Mlanie Baras are typical of
by tourism. With an people going or returning to the area, who
advantageous climate, choose to give up city living in favour of
influenced by the downsizing for a better quality of life. As
mountains, the ocean and Tilly explains, its not just the clean air and
the Mediterranean south, outdoor activities many local people have
the Vercors attracts opted for the retour la terre lifestyle,
visitors for around three embracing healthy eating, simple living
quarters of the year. For and a cooperative approach.
anyone with language skills or experience Tilly and her husband Dorian run a
CAPITAL IDEAS in the hospitality trade, it should be restaurant, Le Dragon Vert in Presles,
possible to find work. Another potential serving organic, home-made food. She says
GRENOBLE source of employment for expats moving many of the locals helped them to decorate
Known as the capital of the Alps to the area with building and carpentry the restaurant when they started. They
due to its size and proximity to skills could be in chalet construction didnt want anything in return, she says.
the mountains, Isres capital many new builds in the Vercors are They know we will do the same for them
Grenoble (pictured above) is also wooden chalets. whenever they need help.
an important centre for learning Away from tourism, the area has Meanwhile property in the area is still
and scientific research with its numerous artisan producers, self- relatively well priced in comparison to the
large university, which dates back employed independents and some creative surrounding urban areas, but prices are
to 1339. The journey by train from artists. Many inhabitants have different being pushed up as the roads improve,
Paris to Grenoble takes three hours, jobs for the different seasons. thus attracting the commuter market for
and on an average weekday there A local goat farmer we know makes nearby big towns. Tilly and Dorians home
are 26 trains per day running cheese in summer and clears the snow is typical of local farmhouses, and came
between the capital and Grenoble. from the roads in winter, says Tilly. with three barns, one of which they have
People living here are quite innovative, converted into a gte.
VALENCE you dont get stuck in one role it certainly We bought our stone farmhouse
THOMAS HYTTE/VERCORS TOURISME; SANTOSHA57/FOTOLIA

Valence is the capital of the Drme expands your horizons. almost 20 years ago when property here
department and is often referred Similarly, Laurent and Mlanie Baras, was that much cheaper, says Tilly. When
to as the gateway to the south of based close to Villard-de-Lans, run people ask us now what we paid for it, they
France. As the local saying goes, complementary activities around their are quite envious!
Valence le Midi commence (in love of horses. Laurent runs a riding stable,
Valence the Midi begins), which while Mlanie has a successful organic
pays tribute to the citys southern cosmetics range (Perle de Jument) using
milk from the mares they breed. She had
TURN OVER
culture. The high-speed TGV line
For an estate agents view plus
connects Paris to Valence in just no previous experience in cosmetics but
a selection of properties for sale
two hours 11 minutes. they needed a second revenue source and
she saw the potential.

24 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


IN THE HEART OF THE VERCORS, PROPERTY
DATING FROM 1773 WITH ORIGINAL FEATURES
With its steep, winding roads and numerous conservation
areas and places of outstanding natural beauty, the Vercors
offers the perfect compromise between mountains and
easy access to motorways, airports, TGV and ski resorts.
The property comprises : a maison de matre with living
space of 340m2, 2 outbuildings (245m2 and 130m2)
which could be renovated into gites, or used to house
your favourite animals! Fishing lake and park.
The maison de matre comprises a tted kitchen, a living
room with large authentic replace, 4 bedrooms, each with
ensuite. There is another oor of 170m2 which could be
converted to provide 4 further bedrooms. A large terrace
Prix
with two majestic stones staircases, inside and outside. 760,000
This is an ideal spot for lovers of nature and sport alike.

HEALTHCARE IN FRANCE Contact : Monique Clment | Immoroyans.com | clement.monique@free.fr

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completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 25


WHERE TO LIVE
Vercors

$VNWKH
DJHQW
Monique Clment of Immoroyans tells
us why the Vercors is a hidden gem for
British buyers looking for a French home

How much are the cheapest and most What kind of budget does your typical
HOW expensive properties that you have for British buyer have?
MUCH WOULD sale in the Vercors? It varies; usually between 120,000 and
The cheapest property we have for sale 200,000. What is important to remember
YOU EXPECT TO PAY FOR:
is on the market for 45,000; the most is that a beautiful house in the Vercors costs
A three-bed town house? expensive is 760,000. the same price as a studio in London.
90,000
Can you tell us about the local What do you think British buyers tend to
A detached property architecture of the area? want to buy?
in good condition? The architecture is different depending The English are very fond of old stone
180,000 on whether you are on the plain or in the houses which have soul. Theyre not too
mountains. On the plain, it is characterized concerned about whether the property has
A renovation project? by farms with walnut dryers (this area good insualtion or not beause many dont
80,000 to buy and then is known for its AOC Grenoble walnuts). live here during the winter.
100,000 to renovate. These dryers are usually built in stone or
wooden planks on the ground floor. In the Whats the most unusual request that
mountains, the houses are also in stone youve had from a client?
NOTAIRES FIGURES but the roofs are steeper and they have I had clients who wanted to buy a
lauze stairs (made from flat stones found in property with space where they could
VERCORS MASSIF
the region). The thinking behind stairs like land their small plane they were aviation
267,400
Average house price this was to have easy access to the roof so enthusiasts. However, it was difficult to
2,320/m2 that residents could get rid of snow after meet all of their criteria. So I sold them a
Average apartment price big storms. house on the edge of the local aero club and
they are delighted with their purchase.
DRME Do you have many British buyers?
185,000 We have a few foreign clients, especially What is the property market like in the
Average house price English and Dutch. I remember one Vercors at the moment ?
1,350/m2 English couple particularly well. I sold a There has been a long period of calm but
Average apartment price house and three gtes to them seven years over the past eight months or so, it feels like
ago (turn to page 28 to read their interview). the market has been bouncing back. Interest
ISRE The property was in a poor condition but rates are at their lowest and threatening
206,700 this brave English couple renovated the to rise, so people are encouraged to invest
Average house price
entire property and made it into a marvel now rather than remain a tenant.
2,080/m2
where they could welcome cyclists from
Average apartment price
all over the world and help them discover What are your predictions for the property
Source: Notaires de France the Vercors by bike. Their success is market in the Vercors?
really remarkable. I am quite optimistic about the future of
our property market because the Vercors
is really a region that has many assets. The
ON THE MARKET prices are not as low as in the centre of
France but they are much more accessible
Mountain chalet
than in the south. Therefore we are a good
1

Youll have no neighbours


49

middle ground for buyers who do not have


,0

around you in this four-


00

a very big budget but who still want to be in


bedroom home but the
a dynamic and sunny area that is close
village of La Chapelle-en-
to the mountains.
Vercors is closeby. Set on
1,860m of land, the property
Whats the best thing about living in
has wooden furnishings and
the Vercors?
low sloping ceilings; typical
The Vercors is ideal for lovers of nature and
of the mountain chalet style.
sport activities. I think living in the Vercors
It also boasts magnificent
is a good way to maintain your youth!
mountain views.
immoroyans.com

26 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


WHERE TO LIVE
Vercors

2QWKHPDUNHW
If youre looking for a location thats rural yet not remote, with amenities
and adventure on the doorstep, youll find a home to suit in Vercors

169,000 367,500

210,000

1 This three-bedroom property


is located in the commune of
St-Andr-en-Royans. It comprises
2 Dating from the 19th century, this
stone-built house already has five
bedrooms but offers plenty of potential
3 Located close to ski resorts and
cycling routes, this villa near the
village of Corps would suit lovers of
an open-plan kitchen, several for further expansion in the form of a the great outdoors. The 280m of living
outbuildings and an attic that could convertible attic space and outbuildings. space includes six bedrooms, a modern
be converted. A south-facing terrace Located in the village of Oriol-en-Royans, kitchen and a dining room with a
is ideal for taking in the mountainous it is just 50 minutes from Grenoble and 35 woodburner. Tastefully decorated, it
views and 300m of adjoining land. minutes from the nearest ski resorts. would be perfect as a chambres dhtes.
Contact: Immoroyans Contact: Sextant Properties Contact: Leggett Immobilier
immoroyans.com sextantproperties.com leggettfrance.com

410,000 890,000 1,490,000

4 With nine bedrooms and five bathrooms,


this villa in the commune of La Chapelle-
en-Vercors also has potential as a chambres
5 This seven-bedroom home in
Lans-en-Vercors has been tastefully
decorated in a fresh, modern style, while
6 Set in 90 hectares of land in the foothills
of the Vercors, this six-bedroom house
has a large living and dining area, while the
dhtes. Built in the 1950s, the property is the external wood finish is sympathetic vaulted salon opens out to a terrace that
spread across three floors. This home is to its mountainous surroundings. The boasts sweeping views of the surrounding
situated in a quiet area with 5,000m of land, property comprises five bathrooms, hills. Its a pricier option, but you do also get
and the little balcony is the perfect place to five toilets, a cellar and ample parking a wine cellar, horse stables and a heated
appreciate the propertys scenic surroundings. space within its 2,396m of land. swimming pool for your money.
Contact: 3G Immo Consultant Contact: Belles Demeures Contact: My French House
3gimmobilier.com bellesdemeures.com my-french-house.com

TURN OVER for an expats view of St-Jean-en-Royans plus our fact file
completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 27
WHERE TO LIVE
Vercors

After leaving a stressful


London life behind,
Teresa Harte enjoys
running a cycling
holiday company

How did you come to settle


in St-Jean-en-Royans?

$
Roger, my late husband, finished the last
two years of his international cycling

 Y L H Z
career with a French team called Vlo Club

ORF D OV
Romanais Peageois, based in Romans-sur-
Isre, back in 1989 and immediately fell
in love with the area. I joined him in 1990
and having borrowed an old shopping bike
from the directeur sportif of his team, set
off to explore the region while he was out
training. I felt liberated and couldnt get
enough of the quiet, pothole-free roads
and I found the huge diversity of terrain so
exciting. We considered staying in France
after he finished his contract, but at the age
of 24 I felt I needed to get back to London The fact that the property had three gtes valleys below, gorges, canyons, rivers
and get a real job. It wasnt until 2007 that was a bonus and gave us the idea to set up and grassy plateaux. Within a very short
we decided to move to France having had a specialist cycling holiday base. Over the distance, the terrain changes from Alpine
enough of the stresses of London life. years weve added B&B rooms, an outside cols, to the rolling hills of the Drme,
barn for guests to relax and eat, and to the flatter Isre valley roads, and the
What attracted you to the Vercors? designed a wonderful garden and potager. choice of routes is huge. Roads are very
We knew it was an undiscovered gem for quiet with only local traffic, no potholes
cyclists with its spectacular landscape, What led you to set up Vlo Vercors? and a smooth tarmac finish. The Tour de
routes, quiet roads and clement climate. As an ex-international rider with 13 years France has visited the region on numerous
of riding in Europe and representing occasions and there are many local cycling
Did you find it easy to find a property? GB as a top amateur, Roger knew what events to enjoy.
We set our sights on St-Jean-en-Royans makes a great cycling holiday. He was also
as we had some good Australian friends passionate about the Vercors and wanted What do you most enjoy about
who spent three months every year there. to make it a cycling destination for cyclists living in the Vercors?
We contacted Monique Clment (see our from all around the world. I had the There are so many things I love about
interview on page 26), a local estate agent marketing and PR skills (prior to moving to this area: the spectacular scenery, the
in St-Jean and set a date to view some France I was marketing manager at Virgin tranquil roads, the weather, the fact that
properties. The property we bought was Records), so we complemented each other its a working French region inhabited by
the second property we viewed and the very well. However, there was no strategic mainly French nationals. I love the fact
moment I visited the former wood mill, I plan and Vlo Vercors was born out of an that our friends meet up to make things
knew I would be very happy to live here. organic process, year-on-year continually like wild boar sausages and pt.
renovating the old wood mill, converting
the caves into B&B rooms and continually Is there a special place in the Vercors that
addressing the needs of our guests. The you particularly like to visit?
10th anniversary of Vlo Vercors is in 2018 Any bike ride in the Vercors is special but
and we have achieved our goal of making the descent down the Combe Laval gorge
the Vercors a destination for cyclists. is spectacular and exhilarating and it was
my husbands favourite. In his memory,
Describe your local landscape what the community of St-Jean-en-Royans have
makes it so enjoyable to cycle there? erected a bench in a beautiful spot where
The Vercors is home to some of the former guests can stop to pause for a little
most impressive roads in France with while and remember him, so its even
spectacular scenery from soaring more special now.
Teresa Harte (second from left) with the Vlo Vercors
limestone cliffs, vertiginous drops to the velovercors.com
team, who organise tours for cyclists of all levels

28 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


FACT FILE WHERE TO LIVE
Vercors

Department:
The Vercors takes its name from the Massif south Drme and Isre
of Grenoble and spans two departments Drme Region: Auvergne-
Rhne-Alpes
and Isre. This area of outstanding natural beauty Capital: Valence
is one of Frances regional nature parks set upon a (Drme), Grenoble
(Isre)
limestone plateau covering 330,000 acres.

POPULATION EDUCATION LOCAL BANKS GETTING THERE


Isre: 1,235,387 (2013) School term dates BNP Paribas By plane: The nearest
Drme: 494,712 (2013) Vercors is in Zone A 12 Place Paul Mistral airports are Grenoble (58km) and
Source: insee.fr education.gouv.fr 38000 Grenoble Lyon (110km).
Tel: 00 33 (0)8 20 82 00 01 By train: Nearest stations are
League table of schools Grenoble and Valence.
CLIMATE (Drme) HSBC By car: Approx. 40 mins from
It can be very cold on the linternaute.com/ville/lycee/ 8 Place de la Rpublique Valence or Grenoble in the north,
high plateaux during winter. drome/departement-26 26000 Valence and 45 minutes from Die in the
Tel: 00 33 (0)8 10 24 68 10 south. Six hours from Paris, three
Grenoble (Isre): League table of schools (Isre) hours from Marseille.
Average min temp: 6.30C linternaute.com/ville/lycee/isere/
Average max temp: 16.20C departement-38 HEALTHCARE AND
Average annual rainfall: 934.3mm SOCIAL SECURITY GETTING AROUND
Annual sunny days: 88 CPAM de lIsre Mtrovlo (metrovelo.
PROPERTY 2 Rue des Allis fr) offers bikes for hire from 32
Montlimar (Drme): Chambre des notaires 38045 Grenoble rental stations around the city of
Average min temp: 9.20C de la Drme Alixan Grenoble for 3 per day.
Average max temp: 18.50C Tel: 00 33 (0)4 75 60 06 11 CPAM de La Drme Liblo (velo-libelo.fr) has bikes for
Average annual rainfall: chambre.drome@notaires.fr Avenue du Prsident Herriot hire at 20 stations across Valence
905.3mm chambre-26.notaires.fr 26000 Valence from 1 per day.
Annual sunny days: 111.25
Chambre des notaires de lIsre URSSAF Drme Actibus operates shuttle buses
Seyssins Place de Dunkerque between Grenoble airport and
EXPAT GROUPS Tel: 00 33 (0)4 76 48 13 47 26000 Valence the citys bus station. actibus.com
Open House (Grenoble) chambre.isere@notaires.fr
English-speaking cultural chambre-38.notaires.fr URSSAF Grenoble The Cita bus network operates
association in Grenoble. Activities 1 Rue des Allis across Valence. citea.info
include coffee mornings, 38000 Grenoble
childrens parties, summer picnics WORK AND The ORA! contactless travel
and barbecues, excursions, etc. BUSINESS CARSAT (Caisse dassurance card enables users to travel on
openhousegrenoble.com OPPORTUNITIES retraite et de la sant au travail) the train and bus network across
Chambre de Commerce et Rhne-Alpes Drme and Isre. oura.com
Alliance Franaise Grenoble dIndustrie (CCI) Grenoble 27 Rue Andr Maginot
afgrenoble.org grenoble.cci.fr
USEFUL WEBSITES
Accueil des Villes Franaises Chambre de Commerce et HOSPITALS isere-tourisme.com
Grenoble dIndustrie (CCI) Drme Les Hpitaux Drme en.auvergnerhonealpes-
avf.asso.fr/fr/grenoble drome.cci.fr Nord tourisme.com
Accueil des Villes Franaises Two locations: Romans-sur-Isre ladrometourisme.com
Drme Ple Emploi Grenoble and St-Vallier vercors-drome.com
avf.asso.fr/fr/valence 1 rue dArmenie vercors.fr
38000 Grenoble Centre Hospitalier Universitaire
Speleo Vercors Grenoble Alpes Conseil dpartemental
An English-speaking club Ple Emploi Valence Avenue Maquis du Grsivaudan (for education, transport,
specialising in Vercors caving 333 avenue Victor Hugo 38700 La Tronche environment, sport)
speleo-vercors.org 26000 Valence chu-grenoble.fr isere.fr; ladrome.fr

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 29


LIFESTYLE

30 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


&n!
')n%
Falling in love with a Frenchman brought Welsh
entrepreneur Nia Jenkins Hafsia to Dordogne
where she runs a successful handmade soap and
skincare business, as Susie Hunting finds out

N
ia Jenkins Hafsia has Nia and Karim moved to Bergerac in
been passionate about Dordogne and Nia launched her new
handmade skincare soap business, Passion Savon,
products since she was a in 2005 producing natural,
teenager, having suffered high-quality soaps and other
with bad skin and asthma. Her desire to skincare products. For three
formulate a natural solution to skincare years Nia had a shop in
problems drove the Welsh entrepreneur Bergeracs Old Town where she
to open her first shop formulating natural sold her products.
perfumes nearly 25 years ago. Although I had an atelier there
And it wasnt just her skincare business of about 50m2 that was fine for making the
that was set to blossom: Nia met her soap, the house was lost in the countryside
husband Karim through their love of and it was impossible to have a soap
natural soap and his terrible allergies to boutique there. The costs of the rent and
any synthetic perfumes. He came into rates in Bergerac were huge, so we decided
my shop, with all those aromas, and didnt to start looking for another premises,
choke to death. That day I gained a new where we could have our home, the
client and a new love, remembers Nia. atelier and a soap boutique all in the same
The couple decided to move to south- location, says Nia.
west France together where Nia The couple began searching for
loved the temperate unpolluted a suitable property that would
climate. As you know, in tick all of these boxes, and they
Wales it rains twice a year were lucky enough to find the
both times for six months so old Moulin de Bourgnac nearby,
when we came here with the as Nia explains. We had both
wonderful weather, and short always wanted to live in a mill
winters, it completely changed and the association with water
my health, says Nia, who turns fitted wonderfully with the
60 this year. manufacture of soap.

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 31


LIFESTYLE

(
'n!Rn
!% ''
Each bar of Nias 100g soap is
cut from 9kg blocks. She uses a
cold process of saponification as
opposed to the hot process used
for most commercial soaps, as it
keeps the ingredients fresh and
more therapeutic. Extra-virgin
olive oil from Andaluca, argan
oil, almond butter and the Grand
Cru shea butter are put with pure
essential oils, natural spring water,
fresh fruits, vegetables, flowers,
perfumes, herbs and botanicals.
There is a huge difference The atelier took a year to build, and sulphates and synthetic fragrances
between the hot and cold process. was built by a local craftsman who and colours. Nia does not claim any
Using the hot process, for me, is works only with wood, so all the nails medical benefits, but her clients swear
ridiculous you have nothing left and screws are also made of wood. It by her products that help with skin
when you cook something. So is very well insulated so we have an complaints such as acne, dermatitis,
many people are using chemical- ambient temperature of between 20 and psoriasis and eczema.
based products such as shower 28C during the year, which is perfect for Nia admits that she would have
gels, shampoos, bubble baths full the saponification of our cold process struggled to set up the business without
of sodium sulphate; a disaster for natural soap. the help of her French husband Karim.
the skin and harmful to the earth. Nia has developed over 80 soaps and I am lucky to be married to a very clever
Whereas, when our soaps other skincare products which she sells Frenchman who is aware of all the rules
are washed away there is in her boutique and around the world and regulations, and is able to take control
nothing in them that is through her website. She uses plant- of the administrative side of the business,
harmful, explains Nia. based, nourishing ingredients with i.e the bank, accountants, taxes, insurance,
gentle infusions of herbs and oils etc. Otherwise, to be honest, it would
and unique blends of pure have been very daunting for me, says Nia.
essential oils to create Even now when I see how what we pay in
skincare products which taxes is more than half of what we earn, its
are free from parabens, hard, so I am very fortunate that I am so
petrochemicals, passionate about the business.

32 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


Because everything is made
by hand, every time I cut a
new soap its very exciting.
Each one is unique. I am
still learning every day.
I never get bored

NATURES WAY are used for decoration, many of which she


Nia uses natural French clays, minerals grows in her garden.
and spices as colouring for the soaps At 18, Nia went to the Royal Welsh
turmeric for yellow, paprika for orange, College of Music & Drama in Cardiff to
sandalwood for purple, spinach and nettles study opera, piano and flute. A mezzo-
for green. She uses cocoa powder to create soprano, she sang at eisteddfods before
chocolate-brown, bamboo charcoal for a deciding to start the soap-making venture.
black, and pink Himalayan salt or poppy Has her musical background helped her
seeds for exfoliating. We use vanilla with putting together all these notes, a
seeds, chocolate, champagne and local bit like an orchestra where each different
Top left: Nia and Karim making soap in their workshop Bordeaux wine which is a lovely reflection instrument and sound magically combines
Above: The Moulin de Bourgnac in Dordogne
of the area, says Nia. to produce a harmonious wonderful
Below: Some of the soaps look like works of art
She also strives to use local produce creation? She laughs. Its a good analogy...
where possible. We use locally produced Maybe, but as an aromatherapist, you
hazelnut and walnut oil, hemp oil, understand which essential oils go
strawberries, kiwis and tomatoes, which together. These oils have base, middle and
all give the soap textures and aroma, she top notes like a perfume and, like people,
says. We use carrot oil to enhance the they work better together. They dont like
effect of raw carrots full of beta-carotene being alone.
for the complexion, pureed cucumber, Nia reveals that after 30 years of
fresh mint, basil and fenugreek. making soap, she has been able to
Dried flowers including perfect her formulations and recipes.
cornflower petals, Beauty products in France are strictly
calendula, marigold, regulated and have to be certified by
jasmine and rose a chartered chemist. Each soap may
contain 25 ingredients, when you count
the colours, the essential oils, the
fruits, vegetables, the botanicals,
the flowers. You must show the
percentage of each one and
the supplier. A small company
like mine has to do it, but so
does LOral, etc. Its the law.
For the consumer its a safety
precaution, she explains.

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 33


LIFESTYLE

COVETED AWARD
This dedication to quality, attention to detail
and Nias unlimited imagination earned her
the prestigious and much-coveted French
Matre Artisan dArt designation in 2015.
Receiving the award has certainly boosted
the business, she says. Karim says that I
am the only soap maker in France to have it,
which is funny as I am Welsh. They usually
give it to the French.
Nias passion for exploring essential oils
has its roots in her teenage years. I had
chronic acne as a teenager. No treatments
worked, and then I discovered aromatherapy
just by chance. Id go for tea on a Sunday
Above: The atelier took a year to build
with my aunt. She was a herbalist and Below (left to right): Karim and Nia at
when I started reading her books, I was Savonnerie Passion Savon; people flock to
hooked. She loved picking wild flowers and the free demonstrations that Nia gives every
Saturday afternoon to learn about the magic
plants to make tisanes and infusions. Then
of soap making
a local chemist, who was ahead of his time
regarding alternative medicine, gave me
three essential oils: lavender, lemon and
eucalyptus, she remembers.
Inspired, Nia researched and read
everything available at that time until she
started making simple products based on
natural oils. I made one soap, one balm and
one cleanser. By then I had progressed to
buying at least 30 essential oils, says Nia,
who made the products for friends and family
before word got round and people started
asking her to sell to them. My father had
terrible arthritis; he was a prolific writer and
had painful bunions on his finger joints. So
I made a blend of eight anti-inflammatory,
analgesic essential oils. After a few months

he could use his fingers again and it became a


huge seller in Wales. Im still selling it today.
When Nia looks to the future, she still
sees herself creating new recipes for skincare
products. My first little company in Wales 30
years ago was making 12 products which I ran
from my kitchen. I will always be doing this.
I absolutely love it. There is always something
new to discover. Its only my imagination that
limits me and I have a very good imagination.
Every Saturday, Nia holds a soap-making
demonstration at the atelier, which has been a
big success. People love seeing the soap being
made. I think of our product as more than just
soap; more a truly unique skincare experience
but I also like to make it look and smell as
beautiful as possible, she says. Because
everything is made by hand, every time I cut
a new soap its very exciting. Its never the
same. The design is always different which
means when you buy one, its unique. I am
still learning every day. I never get bored.
passion-savon.fr

34 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


LES ME R L E S
By REB

Villas for sale


3 - 4 bedrooms, 140m2
15 minutes from Bergerac Airport and the old town.

Development under Dutch supervision Maintenance


Golf course and swimming pool Hospitality
Gastronomic restaurant Finance
South facing gardens Rental

For more information:


lesmerlesbyreb.com or call +31 (0)20 330 1654
LIFESTYLE

 n  !! 


rld of French TV,
elve d into the wo r favourite shows
yo u h av ent yet d you discover you nguage skills
If
e W in te r ton helps n improve your la
Clair u t h ow they c
a
ds o
and fin

W
e spend over eight years SPEAKING IN TONGUES can pick up the pronunciation and increase
of our lives on average But can watching your favourite shows our vocabulary as well.
glued to the box, so actually help you learn the language? But, beginner speakers of French,
theres no doubt its a According to the blog 10 best French TV beware. Founder of FrenchToday.com,
popular pastime and series to learn French, from the website Camille Chevalier-Karfis, fears that, for
part of our national identity. But when FluentU.com, watching en franais is people with a low level, watching TV can
we move abroad, language and cultural guaranteed to be useful, regardless of be a frustrating way to study the language
differences make it difficult to tune into your level of proficiency. Lets face it as they wont understand anything. I
local TV. French isnt an easy language to learn believe most students should enjoy TV
It can feel like too much effort when for the beginner, especially because of in French, and may pick out a word or
you dont know which programmes to its pronunciation and complex grammar two, hear the accents, and simply enjoy
watch or who anyone is, but its a fun way rules. By watching French TV shows we the process, rather than use it as a tool for
to experience real life. Plus, it helps with learning, she said.
making small talk when youre chatting However, she recommends it for
to the neighbours. more advanced speakers. They
Just like in Britain, popular can learn a lot of new vocabulary
TV shows are common topics this way, hear lots of different
of conversation in France and accents, have fun and its free! If
its great to know what theyre you are an advanced speaker of
talking about even if you dont French, Id recommend watching
understand every word. Knowing the same show over and over until
that last years winner of you understand everything. Watch
Le Meilleur Ptissier (Frances without the subtitles, pause, repeat,
version of The Great British Bake Off) write it down and then learn the new
was Australian-born, Paris-living vocabulary and expressions. TV can
Chelsea Wilson will earn you big be a great learning tool if you go the
M6

brownie points with cake-loving locals. extra mile and actually study with it.

36 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


I watch French I watch French
programmes with programmes

NIB
English subtitles

JOB CULTURE CLUB


There are also cultural benefits of watching
French TV and not just culture with a
capital C, according to Galle Planchenault,
Twitter poll @LivingFrance
We asked our followers Associate Professor in the Department
Do you watch French of French at Simon Fraser University.
TV or do you stick to When I mention the cultural aspect
English shows? of the language, I do not only refer to
arts, literature, history, or other cultural

NB artifacts that are often attached to French,


she explains.

I watch
English
programmes
OB I watch French
versions of English
programmes
To me, culture is also a part of the
language itself, what makes it tick, what
makes it alive. A language is more than the
fixed forms in textbooks; it is constantly
If you like Ramsays Kitchen
Nightmares, you will love Cauchemar
evolving. Manners of speaking say a lot en Cuisine, M6
about speakers their background, the Michelin-starred chef Philippe Etchebest
context of communication as well as their takes a less expletive-ridden approach to
Despite having to rely moods or the nature of the relationship. helping troubled restaurateurs than his
on English subtitles, Knowing all this makes learning a language fiery counterpart Gordon Ramsay, but hes
these French series have truly exciting. When we watch TV, we are not shy to point out their mistakes in his
hooked British viewers exposed to naturalistic ways of speaking bid to steer them away from bankruptcy.
that are often totally different from the
Spin, More4 Called Les
French spoken inside the classroom. If you like The Great British Bake Off,
Hommes de lombre in France,
So what would Galle recommend as you will love Le Meilleur Ptissier, M6
this political thriller sees cabinet
a good TV programme to get us started? Regular viewers of GBBO will immediately
members clamouring for power
The recent TV series Dix Pour Cent is feel at home with the theme tune and
following the assassination of
a good way to familiarise yourself with opening credits of the French version.
the French president.
French programmes, she says. It was Le Meilleur Ptissier follows a similar
The Disappearance, BBC Four very successful in France and was held as format to the British one, with one
Lyon-based thriller about a an example of good quality television. It presenter, currently Julia Vignali, and two
missing teen, called Disparue is also humorous, fast-paced and features judges Michelin-starred chef Cyril Lignac
in French. well-known French actors. and food blogger Mercotte. The challenges
If youre looking for something a little are very similar to GBBO, but for the show-
Spiral, BBC Four Murder
more familiar, read on for our suggestions stopper (preuve crative), a distinguished
investigation series set in Paris,
of programmes you might recognise. guest is invited to help judge.
called Engrenages in French.

Versailles, BBC2 Set during


the construction of the Palace
of Versailles during the reign of
Louis XIV, it was mainly filmed
in English, with French actors If you like Loca
tion, Location,
relegated to supporting roles. Location, you
will love Recher
Appartement che
The Returned, More4 Ou Maison, M6
The Phil an d Kirstie of Fren
American remake of the French ch property
programmes, St
supernatural TV series Les phane Plaza gu
house-hunters ides
Revenants. The first season won to find their drea
home within th m
an International Emmy for Best eir budget. Alth
charming Stp ough the
Drama Series in 2013. hane is clearly
the show, he on the star of
ly deals with th
St-Tropez region e Paris and
s. He has a team
START WATCHING FRENCH regional estate of other
agents to help
PROGRAMMES BEFORE YOU MOVE seekers elsewhe prop erty
re around Fran
Virgin Media has expanded its international ce.
TV offering in the UK with the launch of
three new countries on its Worldbox app,
and France is one of them. French Bouquet
includes four channels offering a range of
programmes covering news and culture, and
theres also a cartoon channel for children.

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 37


LIFESTYLE

If you like Strictly Come Dancing, you


will love Danse Avec Les Stars, TF1  % n% ' %  % !%
nn!)  % %'n%)  %n '
Just like in the British version, famous
faces in France take to the dance floor with
professional dancers to strut their stuff in
a variety of different dances. Its a good
%)' '
whos who of French celebrity (or not Cousu Main
really celeb, just like the British version) Un Dner P , M6 The
resque Parf Great British Sewing
Secret Story , M6 Come Dine Wit , BBC Two
and if you love Strictlys camp blend of ait Bee
sequins, sparkles and spins, you wont be Maison V , TF1 B h Me, Chann
endre, M6 ig Brother,
Channel 5 el 4
disappointed here. Top Chef, M Selling Houses wit
6 MasterC h Amanda L
The Voice: hef: The Pro amb, Chan
If you like Britains Got Talent, you La Plus Bell fessionals, nel 4
e Voix, TF1 BBC Two
will love La France A Un Incroyable The Voic
e, ITV
Talent, M6
Former Newcastle United footballer David
Ginola presents this French version of
BGT, where the weird and wonderful aim
to entertain the audience and impress
the four judges. Last years winners were
19-year-old Juliette and her adopted dog
Charlie who wowed and charmed with
WE ASKED YOU: WHICH FRENCH TV
their enchanting routine.
PROGRAMMES DO YOU WATCH?
Carol Patton Kelly Dawe JJ Read
If you like The Great Interior Design Cornsilk I loved watching We love Cherif which
Challenge, you will love D&CO, M6 Karen Rough I love Midi en France The Disappearance we found last year
D&Co is different to GIDC as it involves Danse Avec Les on France 3. You on BBC Four last on TV5 Monde. I am
a homeowner redecorating two or three Stars on TF1... get to see and learn year, and the film doing my best to
rooms of their house with the help of French Strictly Come about all parts of Paris, Je taime is not rely solely on the
qualified designers and artisans, but it will Dancing! the country. brilliant! English subtitles too.
appeal to interior design fans. At the end
of the programme, the rest of the family
discovers the two-day transformation.

3+/6
The TV licence in France (la
redevance audiovisuelle) is payable If you like soap operas, you will love
with the taxe dhabitation. The fee Plus Belle La Vie, France 3
for 2016 was 137 and the cost is Set in the beautiful coastal city of
subject to an annual index- Marseille, this serial drama follows
linked increase. the lives of residents in fictional
neighbourhood, Mistral. The humour
may be hard to follow for beginner French
speakers, but the idyllic setting makes it
very easy to watch.

Galle Planchenaults books include


Voices in the Media: Performing French
Linguistic Otherness and Doing dialects
in dialogues: Regional, social and ethnic
variation in fiction

Camille Chevalier-Karfis is the founder of


FrenchToday.com, French audiobooks for
all levels recorded at several speeds and
levels of enunciation

38 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


WHERE TO LIVE
Twin towns

$WDOHRI I
f youre about to embark on a new life
in France, finding out more about your
town or villages French twin is a good
way of establishing links across the

WZRFLWLHV
Channel, in a place that already has a
connection with where you live.
The tradition of town twinning became
established after the Second World War with
the intention of creating a bond between two
communities. The aim was to broaden an
understanding of another countrys culture and
is beneficial on many levels from establishing
local commerce and industry links to helping
schoolchildren learn from new experiences.
At first glance you might not think that Dijon
Finding out more about your town or has much in common with York, or Reims with
SOPHIE SPITERI; R. CINTAS

Folkestone, but towns like these have enjoyed


villages French twin is a good way to make links for years, and these cultural connections
links before you make the move across the could help pave the way for a smooth move to
France. Here we explore six French towns and
Channel, says Catriona Burns cities with British twins.

40 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


$L[HQ3URYHQFH
%DWK
If youre born in Aix, nowhere else will popular with visitors to the town but
do, said Paul Czanne of his hometown. also with locals who like to be good to
If you decide to move to Aix-en-Provence, themselves. There are countless more
you will probably feel the same way. opportunities to treat yourself at the citys
Close to the Mediterranean Sea and boutique shops and at the markets too.
with an average of 300 days of sunshine The daily market on Place Richelme in the
a year, Aix-en-Provence is ideal for those Old Town sells everything from antique
who want to enjoy the sun-soaked way books to flowers and delicious sun-
of life that is associated with the south ripened produce.
of France, without compromising on Similar again to Bath, Aix-en-Provence
any conveniences available in the town. is a university town, oozing in culture and
Aix has many shops, bars and cafs and elegance. This is no more evident than
museums to enjoy, but activities more on the stately avenue of Cours Mirabeau
commonly associated with country living thats lined with plane trees, 18th-century
are readily accessible, too. Swimming in town houses and bourgeois cafs. Locals
the sea, exploring nearby lavender fields and visitors alike arrive at any time of day
or skiing in the Southern Alps located two to enjoy a spot of people watching here,
hours away get you swiftly back to nature. whether its for a morning coffee and a
Aix-en-Provence is not only comparable read of the paper, or a glass of ros at dusk
in size to its UK twin city, Bath, but also when the pavements come alive with the
in its style and popular attractions both sound of locals as they chat and unwind
are well known for their historic thermal after a day in the sun.
baths. As in the UK, these are perennially bath-aix-twinning.org.uk

FACT FILE
Region: Average house price:
Provence-Alpes-Cte dAzur 467,000
Department: Average apartment price:
Bouches-du-Rhne 3,620/m2
Above: The elegant Cours Mirabeau in
Aix-en-Provence

Below: Mont Ste-Victoire is a local scene


Czanne painted many times

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 41


WHERE TO LIVE
Twin towns

$QQHF\
&KHOWHQKDP Above: Houses border the azure
waters of Lac dAnnecy
Below: Boulogne-sur-Mer
Opposite: Dijons bustling
city centre

Set at the northern tip of the crystal-clear For ski-keen residents, Annecy is well
Lac dAnnecy and surrounded by snow- placed for accessing the cross-country
capped mountains, the capital of Haute- slopes. Semnoz is 18km south, La Clusaz
Savoie is a natural beauty. With such a 32km east and Le Grand Bornand is 34km
stunning back garden to play in, its no north-east. So if you choose to live in
surprise that Annecins dont spend much Annecy, a trip to the slopes would no

DREAMSTIME; VILLE DE DIJON


time inside, preferring to throw themselves longer be a little luxury but a way of life.
into an array of outdoor pursuits. If locals arent hiking in the hills,
As one of the worlds top 10 theyre enjoying Annecys other main
destinations for paragliding, Annecys attraction strolling through the Old
skies are usually dotted with one or two Town. A warren of arcaded streets lined
thrill-seekers swooping through the fresh with pastel-coloured houses from the
mountain air. If you want to stay more 16th century, this is where locals enjoy
grounded, join locals around the protected a most idyllic day-to-day life: crossing
cycling piste along the lakes western side; flower-covered bridges to buy the
one of Frances most popular voies vertes. morning paper, sitting outside a caf to
Whether youre part of the rollerblading, gaze at the towering mountains, stocking
walking or cycling troop youll be rewarded up on local Savoyard specialities at the
with the same stunning backdrop of market or tucking into a heart-warming
sparkling azure waters bordered by dish of raclette at a family-run bistro.
majestic mountain peaks. cheltenhamtwinning.wordpress.com

FACT FILE
Region: Average house price:
Auvergne-Rhne-Alpes 351,400
Department: Average apartment price:
Haute-Savoie 3,230/m2

42 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


BOULOGNE-SUR-MER
FOLKESTONE
'LMRQ
Many people thinking of moving to
France want to live by the sea. While you
might first think of the Mediterranean
waters in the south or the Atlantic waves
in the west, the seaside towns in northern
<RUN
France certainly have plenty to offer If youve ever wished that you could live panoramic city views a great time-out
too. And theres the added bonus of in a bygone era, a move to Dijon may be activity and a perfect way to show off
their location just a short hop across the the closest you can get. Surrounded by Dijon to visiting guests.
Channel from the UK. villages where time seems to stand still, Of course, many people know Dijon
Situated just half an hour from Calais, ancient vineyards and golden sunflower for its mustard, but there is much more
Boulogne-sur-Mer is Frances largest fields, Burgundys capital is cocooned by to the citys wining and dining scene, and
fishing port, and as the tourist office vestiges of the past. Like in its twin city locals here enjoy indulging in rich and
states, the town has always lived to the of York, there is a feeling that history is hearty cuisine that the region is famed for.
rhythm of fishing. If youre an early riser, around every corner: along the medieval Place de la Libration, a square bordered
you can join other locals for a sunrise streets lined with Renaissance-style by 15th-century buildings and enlivened
walk along the wind-whipped harbour buildings, half-timbered homes and in by buskers and tinkling water fountains,
where you will see the towns fishermen the citys world-famous museums that is a popular spot for enjoying a pre-dinner
bringing in their catch which they sell house paintings and sculptures from apritif with friends .
daily at Quayside Gambetta. Locals here Dijons golden age during the 14th and Its this spirit of getting together that
have first pick from a varied selection 15th centuries. Acclaimed for its collection still has New York native, Alex Miles so
of seafood including crab, lobster, of classical art, Dijon now has some besotted with the city, after moving here
langoustines and mussels before they are contemporary art and design to its name, in 1995. Dijon is the pulsating heart
transported all over Europe. You can pick as well as old favourites such as the Muse of France, he says. Its full of love,
up other foodie delights at the open-air des Beaux-Arts and Muse Rude. understanding, good food and good
market on Place Dalton. Taking place Dijon is served by a sleek tram system people. Its easy to get together with
every Wednesday and Saturday from but locals still favour getting about on foot people here, he tells me, in reference to
8am-12pm, the market is crammed full as much of the city is pedestrianised. On the citys caf culture. Everybody here
of stalls selling everything from fruits and your walkabouts, you can opt to get your just seems to get along. Theres a great mix
vegetables to flowers, fresh herbs, home- heart racing even more by climbing the of people in the community. Alex now
made bread and locally made butter. 316 steps of the Tour Philippe le Bon in runs private cooking classes in the city
The sun-drenched south of France it is the Palais des Ducs where, from the top where people come from all over the world
not, but Boulogne-sur-Mer is endearingly of the tower you will be rewarded with to cook, eat and enjoy food. It would seem
authentic. Plus, it has rainy days sorted that theres no better place for it.
in the form of Nausica Centre National
de la Mer; one of Europes premier FACT FILE
aquariums. Little ones will love the touch Average house price:
Region:
tank where they can stroke sting rays or 195,000
Bourgogne-Franche-Comt
better still, take them out to explore the Average apartment price:
Department:
rock pools at the beach. Set on the 1,830/m2
Cte-dOr
Opal Coast, Boulogne-sur-Mer has
no shortage of long, sandy beaches
where the familiar cry of seagulls,
fresh salty sea air and crashing
waves will make you feel right
at home.

FACT FILE
Region:
Hauts-de-
France
Department:
Pas-de-Calais
Average house price:
120,000
Average apartment price:
1,190/m2

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 43


WHERE TO LIVE
Twin towns

5HLPV
&DQWHUEXU\
Reims is best known as the capital of the and drinking the sparkling wine is a big
Champagne wine-producing region, but part of her new life in France. Thats the
living in this city among some of Frances absolute best part about living here the
most famous vineyards would give you champagne! she exclaims. We drink a
many more reasons to celebrate. lot of it! Its clear that Rachel loves living
Having been restored after both in her champagne bubble as she says:
world wars, Reims is rich in Art Deco One of my favourite things to do is have
architecture, giving its pedestrian a champagne picnic in the vineyards. We
boulevards, bars and cafs a decadent also love going to visit Reimss food market
style. Its 13th-century Notre-Dame at the Boulingrin market hall and we often
cathedral, where French monarchs were go to the Parc de Champagne. Our twin
coronated for over a thousand years, is baby girls absolutely love it, she says.
its crowning glory. Inside, stained-glass Another main attraction of Reims is its
windows designed by Marc Chagall add to accessible location, with Paris being just
the cathedrals dramatic effect. one hour away by train that passes Reimss
A lot of Brits visit Reims to stock up on sun-dappled vineyards on the way. The
bottles of bubbly, but it was a university vineyards belong to some of the famous
year abroad that originally brought Rachel champagne houses, all of which offer cellar
Tremblay from Cheshire to the city. While tours. The tours are well worth a visit but
there, she met a French champagne the sparkling joie de vivre is best enjoyed
producer who she later married. Needless by the glass on on the central Place Drouet-
to say, I never left! laughs Rachel. Now dErlon. Fringed with cafs, restaurants
working with her family-in-laws boutique and joyful residents, its the perfect place
champagne house, Wafflart-Briet, making to toast la belle vie!

Above: A light show at the glise


FACT FILE Notre-Dame-la-Grande in Poitiers
Below: One of many champagne
vineyards in Reims
Region: Average house price:
Grand-Est 206,000
Department: Average apartment price:
Marne 1,900/m2

44 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


MORE
ONLINE
A complete list of twin towns
in the UK and France
completefrance.com/
language-culture/twin-towns

HISTORY OF
TWIN TOWNS
The concept of town
twinning was introduced just
after the end of the Second
World War with the aim of
bringing Europeans closer
together and promoting
cross-border projects.
In January 1951, local
mayors of Europe came
together in Geneva to found
the Conseil des Communes
et Rgions dEurope (which
became the Council of
Municipalities and Regions
in 1984). They realised that
European countries could
overcome their difficulties
by uniting, subsequently
introducing the notion of
a Europe of citizens and
creating the notion of
jumelages (twinning).
Frances unique
geographical positioning
(sharing borders with seven

3RLWLHUV
European neighbours) meant
that it was able to spearhead
the twinning movement
on both a European and

1RUWKDPSWRQ
international level that still
continues today.

Poitiers in west-central France is an towns 90,386 residents. Having such


SOUTHTOWNBOY/ THINKSTOCK; S. LAVAL / OFFICE DE TOURISME DE POITIERS

effortless mix of old and new. The city is a youthful population has compelled
home to a cluster of Romanesque churches, Poitiers to move with the times while
the most popular being the glise Notre- still conserving its old-world charm and FACT FILE
Dame-la-Grande. Built in the 11th and 12th a lively nightlife is enjoyed by all. Cafs,
centuries, the church boasts a magnificently restaurants and bars are busy all year. Region:
ornate facade depicting saints and scenes One of the main attractions for Nouvelle-
from the Bible. Set on the market square in the young at heart is the high-tech Aquitaine
the towns old town, it offers a scenic setting Futuroscope theme park that lies 10km Department:
for church-goers, while a colourful light to the north of Poitiers. Dedicated Vienne
show during Christmastime and summer to the moving picture with both 3D Average house price:
evenings brings everyone together. and 4D screens, it is a guaranteed 153,800
Poitiers has the second oldest university hit with any teenagers that may be Average apartment price:
in France after Paris (it was established in making the move to France with you! 1,470/m2
1432) and students account for 25% of the poitiers.fr/c__70_215__Northampton.html

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 45


LIFESTYLE

-  ' m ) 


DOMINIC RIPPON; RIVES-BLANQUES ESTATE

Globetrotting couple Caryl and Jan Panman made


a new life for themselves as winemakers in western
Languedoc. Dominic Rippon tells their story

46 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


T
heres nowhere quite At that time, Jan worked in international
like Limoux on an early finance, so the Panmans enjoyed the
spring afternoon, as glamorous lifestyle of urban globetrotters,
vineyards disappear into taking them from Portugal to Asia via
forested hills, framed by South America and, finally, Ireland.
the towering snow-capped Pyrnes When they began their search for
in the near distance. You can almost the perfect vineyard, they found land
catch the scent of newly waxed skis and in Burgundy prohibitively expensive, so
simmering cheese in the wind. Between they looked further south, in Languedoc-
the famous peaks of Canigou and St- Roussillon. The vineyards of Limoux, in
Barthlemy nestles the smaller Pic des western Languedoc, have been lauded by
Rives-Blanques, after which Anglo-Dutch Jancis Robinson MW as Frances most
couple Caryl and Jan Panman decided to interesting chardonnay vineyards outside
name their wine estate. Burgundy, so it seemed an obvious place
Our first harvest, in 2001, definitely to look. The couple had always planned to
felt the easiest, Jan remembers, study viticulture before buying their vines,
because we simply werent aware of but an opportunity quickly arose that
all the things that could go wrong! was too good to miss: Eric Vialade, a
Neither Caryl nor Jan had any training as renowned local vigneron, needed to sell
winemakers, but they had long dreamed his 20 hectares of vineyards but was keen
of owning their own wine estate in to stay on as winemaker at the estate.
France. It all began years earlier with So we decided to learn on the job,
family holidays in Burgundy, when they says Jan. We slept with the UC Davis
imagined a life making delicious wines Handbook of Viticulture and Enology on
from the golden chardonnay grapes. our bedside table.

Above: Caryl and Jan Panman


Below: The Rives-Blanques estate

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 47


LIFESTYLE

n%3k'n-
FOR THOSE THINKING OF
BECOMING WINEMAKERS
IN FRANCE:
Before we bought Rives-Blanques
17 years ago, I spoke at length to
Patricia Atkinson (author of The
Ripening Sun) who had done the
same several years earlier, to pick
her brains. Youd have to be mad,
she said. We talked for over an hour
and then she said, Well, yes, go for
it! If youre mad enough, that is.
And thats the advice we
give to everyone now. But dont
underestimate the challenges. This
is not a job for the faint-hearted:
every year weve had friends who
have been wiped out by hail, or
frost, or torrential rain during the
harvest, and we have this awful,
nagging knowledge that one day
that may happen to us too. Good Above: The estates white wines
Right: View of the Pyrnes at twilight
vines are essential to good wines,
but thats only the beginning; nature
listens to no one.
Once youve managed the miracle
ATYPICAL EXPATS finding her neighbours both helpful and
of making your wine, you still have
The Rives-Blanques estate is situated at welcoming. One of the first winemakers
to sell it. This was the biggest
an unusual climatic crossroads: a meeting the couple met was Jean-Louis Denois,
surprise of them all. Theres a global
point of Atlantic, Mediterranean and himself an outsider originally from
market saturated with wine out
mountain influences, with such a unique Champagne with a fearsome reputation.
there and nobody is waiting for
blend of flora and fauna that it has been Hes probably the appellations best
yours. You need to be dedicated
classified as a Natura 2000 European winemaker, Caryl declares humbly.
to selling your product.
Nature Protection Area. Wild boar and Jean-Louis gave us lots of good advice
And the other big surprise:
deer trot between the rows of vines, where when we arrived.
whatever you think the vineyard is
wild orchids often grow. The endangered One of the biggest challenges, Caryl
going to cost you, double it. In fact,
horseshoe bat also thrives in these hills, admits, shooting a reminiscent grin
treble it. And lets not even talk about
which reach an altitude of more than 300 towards Jan, was for us to learn to work
ladministration franaise.
metres. But despite the natural beauty of together as a couple. We had differences
And so, having said all that, I
the area, Jan explains that this was not of opinion which led to lots of bickering
could never advise anyone to do
what attracted them to this part of France. over the grape-sorting table. Trouble also
what we have done; that would be
It was all about the wine for us, he came from further afield when they first
irresponsible.
insists. Our ambition was quite simply to registered the name Rives-Blanques.
And yet... the biggest surprise of
make the best wines that we could. This Caryl recalls the evening when an ominous
all, looking back over 17 years, is
was never a vanity project. So instead of dark envelope with a Spanish postmark
that I never realised how much we
taking on a grand old chteau that needed appeared on the doorstep. It contained a
would want to make our vineyard
renovation, they bought a more modest letter from a spirits producer called Rives,
shine. I simply cannot imagine that
farmhouse with vineyards and a fully based near Seville, threatening legal action
we ever did anything else. So if I have
functioning winery. As the winemaking for trademark infringement. Caryl and
one real regret, its that we didnt
bug took hold, they built new cellars and Jan immediately drove to Barcelona, took
start this earlier.
a tasting room with magnificent views of a plane to Seville and camped outside
So, when push comes to shove, I
the vineyards. the Rives headquarters, hoping to diffuse
would have to give Patricia Atkinsons
Its been 16 years now, Caryl says, the situation. Although an amicable
advice. Its actually irresponsible to
walking between rows of beautifully arrangement was eventually reached,
dissuade anyone from doing this... if
pruned vines, inspecting the nascent Caryl still keeps an empty bottle of
theyre mad enough.
shoots, and I cant imagine how we Rives gin on a shelf in the tasting room,
ever lived our life differently. She to remind her of how stressful the
has fond memories of the early days, experience was.

48 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


The Rives-Blanques estate
is situated at an unusual
climatic crossroads

BATTLE FOR Fortunately, the dynamic pair were well


RECOGNITION used to travelling and found they enjoyed
When the Panmans arrived selling the fruits of their own production.
in Limoux, the potential of its There arent many professions that allow
vineyards was clear, although it would you to make your own product, sell it,
be years before the wine press showed and talk to the people who consume it,
commensurate interest. The local says Caryl. Its a real thrill to hear
speciality blanquette de Limoux, made from a bride that our Blanquette
from the white mauzac grape, is believed helped to make her wedding
to be the worlds first bottle-fermented day special.
sparkling wine pipping champagne to Above: Caryl and Jans son Jan-Ailbe As Jan and Caryls confidence
the post by about a century. For the first Below: Hand-harvested grapes grew, so did their range of wines,
few years, the couple made only two which now includes three delicate
wines: a blanquette de Limoux and a white sparkling wines, five oak-aged still
vin de pays dOc. Caryl recalls how small Limoux whites and an unusual
they felt on their first visit to the giant late-harvest sweet wine, made
wine fair Vinisud, with a tiny booth in a from chenin blanc and mauzac
remote corner of the exhibition hall. Until grapes wonderfully named
then, sales had been modest, but as luck Lagremas dAur, which means
would have it, they received a visit from tears of gold in the local Occitan
an influential Belgian wine critic, who language. One of their still Limoux
gave their vin de pays a dazzling review, whites, a delicious single varietal
boosting their profile. mauzac called Cuve Occitania, has been
Jan and Caryl agree that the biggest selected by KLM and Air France for the
surprise has been the amount of energy groups transcontinental in-flight wine list.
theyve dedicated to sales and marketing
MORE We often get calls from passengers whove
more than half of our time, Jan enjoyed the wine, Caryl says proudly. But
estimates. Wine production is a fiercely
ONLINE the majority of press accolades gravitate
competitive business, so the Panmans Learn more about running towards the estates Cuve de lOdysse
quickly discovered that it isnt enough a business in France Chardonnay, a mineral-scented buttery
completefrance.com/living-in-france/
simply to make the best wine; you running-a-business white that bears an alluring resemblance to
also need to promote it successfully. much pricier bottles from Burgundy.

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 49


LIFESTYLE

Caryl and Jan at work


among their vines
The Rives-Blanques cellars

ONWARDS AND transition for Chteau


UPWARDS Rives-Blanques, as it will be
As the 20th anniversary of the last harvest overseen by
Chteau Rives-Blanques winemaker Eric Vialade. Caryl
approaches, Caryl and Jan and Jans son Jan-Ailbe, who
dont appear tempted to has worked at the estate for six
retire just yet. Equally, years under Erics instruction,
though, theres a feeling of is taking over the reins from
contentment with things the veteran vigneron. After
just as they are. Were completing a masters degree in
firmly committed to Spanish and Chinese, Jan-Ailbe
small-scale independent worked as a language teacher,
winemaking, Jan says, decisively. before returning to Limoux in

Theres no absolute
Were not interested in buying grapes 2011 to train as a winemaker. He worked
to increase our production, as many in the vineyards with Eric by day, studying

truth in winemaking
others have done; as long as we can by correspondence for the UC Davis
continue to make better wines each year winemaking diploma by night a
with the vines we have, then gruelling regime which bore fruit in 2015
well be happy. when Jan-Ailbe earned his wings as a fully
The Panmans recently complete analysis of their vineyards soils, qualified winemaker.
employed the renowned which confirmed what they already knew: Even before finishing his studies, Jan-
Cousini company, based they have a spectacular terroir for white Ailbe had begun to make his mark on the
in Narbonne, to undertake a wines. If they ever chose to plant red Rives-Blanques vineyards, working with
grapes, the experts concluded, pinot noir Eric to improve the estates ecological
the grape responsible for red burgundy credentials, with a philosophy that stops
would be the obvious choice. On this just short of being fully organic. Although
score, the couple appear divided, with a formal, international education in
Caryl keener than Jan to experiment with viticulture brings a new perspective to
the grape, although they agree that its winemaking at Rives-Blanques, for now
important to keep trying at least, Jan-Ailbe describes his plans in
new things. Theres simple terms: to continue his parents
no absolute truth in legacy by making the best possible wines
winemaking, adds Jan. from what are perhaps Frances most
The 2017 vintage beautiful mountain vineyards.
Harvesting the mauzac grapes represents an important rives-blanques.com

50 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


LA MAISON

I
have a sense of dj-vu when good friends for many years, and in fact
speaking to Louise Pickford. Louise and her husband Ian Wallace, a
For the second time in as many food and lifestyle photographer, have Mary
months, Im talking to someone to thank for finding Charente.
who had been living in Australia We didnt really know many parts of
for a number of years, then decided to France but had spent some time around
move closer to family in the UK and chose Bordeaux and Toulouse, so that was the
France as the ideal location, mostly for sort of area we were thinking of, says
the weather. And theres a reason Louise Louise. We didnt know Charente at all
herself is familiar too. but we decided to visit Mary while we
Regular readers may recognise food were over in France and thought how
writer and stylist Louises name, and might lovely it was. Thanks to her we discovered
even have recreated some of her recipes Angoulme, and she introduced us to a
in their own kitchen she became Living few of the local restaurants she and her
Frances food columnist in 2015 after husband had been going to. Thats what
taking over from Mary Cadogan. The two inspired us to move to this area.
women have worked together and been And move they did in 2013, initially
renting a gte near Confolens
for six weeks before finding a
property to rent just outside
of Angoulme. Louise and
Ian worked with Mary for the
first 12 months, styling and
photographing food, before Mary
then retired, leaving a gap which
Louise stepped in to fill.
When Mary finished there
was a gap in the market for
food tours and cookery classes
in the area, so it all sort of fell
into place, says Louise. It was
something I could do and it gave
us more control over how we
spent our work time. Thats also
how I came to start writing the
food column for Living France.

WORDS: VICKY LEIGH

We found this house and


we couldnt let it get away
WHO: WHERE: WHY: STYLE:
Food writer and stylist Aignes-et- A home for Louise Barn conversion
Louise Pickford and her Puyproux, and Ian that can also with potential
husband Ian Wallace, a food Charente, be used as a cookery for further
and lifestyle photographer Nouvelle-Aquitaine school and studio development

54 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


We
wanted to
make sure we had
a house that felt really
light and bright, and
the previous owner
had added lots of
windows and
doors

August 2017 Living France 55


LA MAISON

BUSINESS AND PLEASURE


While they were renting, Louise had been
keeping an eye out for a suitable property
to buy, and last year she found one that
fulfilled most of their search criteria.
We had a three-year lease on the rental
property but we were only there for six
months in the end, because we found
this one and couldnt let it get away, says
Louise. It was an old barn conversion
and it had already been renovated by
an English lady to a very high standard.
Coming from Australia we wanted to make
sure we had a house that felt really light
and bright. The previous owner had added
lots of windows and doors, and thats what
Above: The old barn
really attracted us to this one. Its very
conversion had already
quiet and peaceful too. been renovated by the
The couple could also see how the previous owner
property could be adapted and improved Left: Louise and Ian were
to make it work for their business. The drawn to the feeling of light
and space inside the house
big windows and large open-plan rooms Below: Guests enjoy making
meant it worked well for photo shoots, use of the pool during
and they have already partially converted breaks from the kitchen
an outbuilding into a studio. Louise has
also now launched Come Cook in France,
Opposite above: Louise
and her Cook Club guests
opening her home to others who share around one of the large
a passion for food by running cookery islands Ian made
courses in her kitchen. Opposite below: Louise
Luckily we have a really large kitchen, and Ian also offer food
styling workshops
and Ian is very handy hes created two
large islands, one for me to demonstrate
from and another one on wheels which
can comfortably accommodate up to eight
people on a course, says Louise. The
kitchen already had a Range with two
ovens and weve bought another one with
six burners and an oven, which is enough
for what Im doing at the moment. Ive
found that cookers are cheaper here than
they are in the UK. I havent had to buy too
much equipment yet as Ive already got a
lot after cooking for so long, but I probably
will as time goes on.
ALL PHOTOGRAPHS IAN WALLACE

56 Living France August 2017


Luckily
we have a really
HOME COOKING Residential courses are available too,
The monthly Cook Club, a four- large kitchen, and Ian with accommodation provided
hour, hands-on cooking course at The Courtyard at Sainte
covering a wide variety of
is very handy hes created Catherine, a gte and chambres
different cuisines, has already
started, and has attracted other
two large islands, one for me to dhtes run by Louises friends
Stephanie and Charlie May.
expats in the local area.
The classes are held in
demonstrate from and another Yet more familiar names the
couple were featured in the
English at the moment as my
French isnt good enough, but
one on wheels which can Autumn 2015 issue of Living
France when they shared the
were both having lessons and comfortably accommodate story of how they renovated
it would be lovely if I could offer their property to set up a holiday
lessons to the French as well at up to eight people on accommodation business. Louise
some point, says Louise. Anybody and Ian met the Mays when they
is welcome though and weve had a mix
a course stayed at The Courtyard themselves after
of nationalities so far. Its as much about first moving to France.
having a nice cooking experience as it is There was a gap of three or four
about learning or improving skills. We weeks between moving out of the gte
really do want to immerse ourselves as and into the rental property, and luckily
much as we possibly can in French culture, Steph had some space and was happy to
and as Im also offering family days I accept our dogs, explains Louise. We
think it would be really nice to get French clicked immediately we have a lot of
children interested in cooking too. shared interests and both love food. Shes
A full-day family course begins with a great cook, and obviously if Im running
a cooking class for the parents while the cooking courses I need to know that my
children enjoy themselves in the grounds guests are staying somewhere where the
and make the most of the swimming pool food is really good. Its got to be fairly
(with adult supervision), then after lunch representative of me, and Stephs cooking
its the kids turn to have some fun in the style is very similar to mine.
kitchen while the parents relax outside. For the first couple of years, Louise
And as Louise says, shes the one who has intends to see how well it works having
to clean up afterwards! the courses and the accommodation for
The Cook and Dine course includes her guests in two separate places (The
an afternoon of cooking before everyone Courtyard is about 35 minutes away from
then sits down to enjoy the fruits of their Louises home), but the ultimate aim is to
labours in the evening with a glass or have a property where they can also offer
two of locally produced wine, of course. on-site accommodation.

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 57


LA MAISON

This page: Home-grown tomatoes, foraged


elderflower and strawberries from the market

Opposite clockwise from top: Cake making is


always popular with children on family cooking
days; everyone sits down together in the
garden to enjoy the food theyve made;
Louises apricot tart

Thats what I really like about living here


the amount of really good produce
SEASONAL AND SIMPLE doesnt really taste of anything. Its great
While their home provides the ideal setting to be here and be able to buy produce
for the cookery classes and photo shoots, that both looks and tastes great. I went
the abundance of fresh local produce to the market this morning and bought
provides the perfect ingredients to work some strawberries, and I cant remember
with. Louise and Ian have their own the last time I had a strawberry that
potager and grow as much as they can tasted so much like a strawberry should
they currently have tomatoes, peas, beans, taste. Its all about seasonality and
raspberries and potatoes, and the tomatoes simplicity cooking simple dishes with
are doing particularly well. the best quality ingredients.
This is very much about using With 25 years experience as a food
fantastic French produce to cook whatever writer and stylist, Louise has made
I think makes the most of the ingredients, dishes from around the world and as
says Louise. Thats what I really like a result is happy to be flexible about
about living here the amount of really the food she makes during the courses,
good produce, and the amount of foraging. depending on what the participants are
You see French people out in the fields at I went to the keen to do.
all times of the year making the most of Im still to find out if people want to
market this morning
whats available, and thats whats really come and cook traditional French food,
and bought some
lovely and inspiring. Im obsessed with says Louise. Im flexible but would still
seasonal cooking, but in my job Im usually
strawberries, and I cant rather push forward the notion that as
doing the opposite Im always working remember the last time long as the ingredients are local, and
four or five months ahead of the seasons, I had a strawberry that therefore theyre French and fabulous,
and consequently have to buy produce tasted so much like a theres no reason you cant cook
that looks good for photo shoots but strawberry should something and add a bit of spice to it.
taste
58 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com
APPETITE FOR LIFE
While Louises courses look set to enhance
the culinary repertoires of her guests,
she and Ian are very much enjoying the
taste theyve developed for life in France.
Im looking out of my window and its
so tranquil and beautiful, says Louise.
Our French isnt good enough to have
an in-depth conversation but we can
communicate with our neighbours and
everybody has been incredibly helpful and
friendly. Were very settled here and I dont
think either of us would move back to the
UK out of choice. I think the only reason
wed move is to be somewhere slightly
less rural, or perhaps closer to the coast.
My favourite ingredient is fish and I find
the seafood in France particularly good.
I bought some fresh scallops from the
market this morning and theyre so shiny,
they look like theyre still in the sea.
And with that shes heading back into
the kitchen to prepare for the next course,
and Im left feeling rather hungry and
wishing I was there too.

.l
comecookinfrance.com
thecourtyard.fr

A family afternoon for four


at Come Cook in France
The afternoon will run from 2pm-5pm, and
will include a tea made by the children for
the whole family to enjoy. Date to be
arranged directly with Louise. Visit
completefrance.com/competitions
for full details and to enter.

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 59


LA MAISON

In the garden ARE YOU A KEEN


GARDENER?
Email us at
editorial@livingfrance.com

Sweet
sensations
With summer in full swing,
Sue Bradley samples plums ahead
of choosing a cultivar to grow in
her garden and makes sure she
keeps her pots well watered

L
ife is sweet when theres a Generally the plum is one of the easiest Other forms of plums include the
plum tree growing in the fruits to grow and many cultivars are mirabelle, with its small and sweet cherry-
garden and August is the self-fertile, which means its not necessary sized yellow fruit that can be eaten fresh
perfect time to seek out to have another tree nearby. If space is in or used in cooking, particularly in jams
and taste lots of different short supply, select cultivars grown on and liqueurs, and rich and spicy-flavoured
cultivars ready to choose some to plant dwarfing rootstocks that can easily be damsons also known as the Damascene
later in the year. trained against walls or cultivated as space- plum due to its Syrian origins which are
The French are well known for their saving spindles. usually eaten cooked rather than fresh.
love of this delicious fruit, both in fresh Plums like a sheltered spot, usually They do well in colder climates.
and dried forms, prizing them for their in full sunshine and certainly not in a A close relative of the plum is the
flavour and nutritional and dietary fibre frost pocket, but there are some that will greengage, the sweet flesh of which can be
content. Popular ways to use them include thrive in cooler conditions. These include enjoyed straight off the tree or in dishes.
tarts, clafoutis, cakes and breads, along Belle de Louvain, a large and oval-shaped It thrives in cooler climates as long as there
with a variety of savoury dishes. cultivar that can even cope with north- is a sunny aspect. Among the most popular
Pruneaux dAgen, grown around the facing walls. It has a relatively dry flesh, cultivars is Reine Claude de Bavay, which
towns of Agen and Villeneuve-sur-Lot, which makes it great for cooking in pastry originated in Belgium in the latter half of
are seen as the best in the world. Its or cake mixes that shouldnt get too wet. the 19th century and is easier to grow than
cultivating and drying traditions date Later-flowering types include Marjories some other gages.
back to the 12th century, when the Seedling, a purple plum with good The cheapest way to buy plum trees is
monks of the Abbaye de Clairac in the Lot resistance to disease. to get them as bare-rooted specimens to
valley returned from their third crusade One of the biggest problems from plant over the winter months, although
and were inspired to graft Damas plums growing fruit is harvesting, especially if it make sure the ground is not frozen when
from Syria onto local varieties. This all comes at once. Sweet-tasting Jeffersons they go in. Containerised plants have a
produced a fine-skinned fruit, known as plums are ready in September but dont wider planting window, but remember that
Prune dEnte, well suited to the soil and ripen all at once, which means its possible any put in during the summer will need a
climate of south-west France. to stagger picking them. lot of watering.

THINGS TO DO IN THE GARDEN THIS MONTH


MARIUSZBLACH/THINKSTOCK

1 If the days are hot, dont skimp


on watering. Plants in pots,
hanging baskets and new plantings
2 Deadhead
perennials and
repeat-flowering roses
3 Once raspberries have fruited, cut
out any spent canes. Keep an eye
on strawberry runners and transfer any
4 Sow green manures, such
as Phacelia tanacetifolia. In a
few weeks these can be dug into
especially need a daily shower. to prolong displays. that have rooted in the soil into pots. the soil to improve its fertility.

60 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


GARDE
EN

TS OP

NS
OPEN GARDENS: Finistre

J AR D
Bryan Carrick explains why he and his

R
wife Jackie decided to move to Brittany

E
INS UV
to develop the garden of their dreams O

I
n 2012 we left behind our
Norfolk home and garden
where we had lived for
20 years for a new life in
Brittany, a part of France
we loved visiting. We were a
little sad to leave the garden,
but it could not be improved
further without digging it up
and starting again. So, we
made the decision to move to
France, downsize the house
but upgrade the garden.
Four months after arriving
visual picture, particularly
in Brittany we moved into
our Finistre property in the Opening our garden when admiring the many
azaleas, hydrangeas and
Monts dArre hills in the small
Breton village of St-Cadou. The gives us focus and pushes specimen trees now growing
in the garden.
house, built in 1906, is a small
picturesque Breton longre,
but the land offered with it
us to keep making In spring, the long grass
areas have naturalised
(1.2ha) was enough space
to fulfil our dreams of a big
improvements daffodils that take centre stage
after the crocuses have put on
their display in the short grass.
garden and a small arboretum.
three main areas: the main trees and shrubs were ordered In other areas, bluebells, both
Having lived in the driest
garden, a production area and planted to give them time natural and planted, finish
part of the UK for many years
(fruit and veg) and a bonsai to get their feet in. off the springtime offerings.
and then moving to, perhaps,
display area. All three areas are The production area needed Nothing is wasted in the
the wettest part of France
north-facing on a gentle slope, more thought because of garden and all the earth spoil
was one of the first things
but are well protected by a the slope. Four raised beds from digging has been turned
that required our attention
forest on two sides and trees were built into the slope to into a large round raised
well, apart form the super-
on the third side. give relatively backache-free iris bed with a wind feature
sized slugs in the garden
The climate here is generally gardening. These beds allow depicting swallows.
as it required a somewhat
mild, albeit very damp and wet us to control the overzealous After four years we felt
different approach.
in winter and spring, with very slugs to some degree, but the ready to consider opening our
Our garden is divided into
few frosts. Summers are warm slugs do hamper what we can garden, as this gives us focus
and can be hot at times, while grow. Nonetheless, onions, and pushes us to keep making
autumns are cooler and damp. garlic, peas, carrots, squash improvements. We joined
This allows us to grow plants and mangetout are grown the Jardins Ouverts scheme,
that would not have with some success. and our garden was opened
survived in Norfolk. The majority of the grass is throughout the summer of
The basic structure cut high, but very short grass 2016. Winter projects are
and hard landscaping paths are cut to meander now very much on our minds
were the first jobs through and help guide you which we hope will include a
to set the tone of a around the garden. By keeping slate quarry garden, planting
parkland-style garden. the grass long, it takes the of 2,000 daffodil bulbs, and a
Trees that spent many pressure off having to keep laburnum walkway.
years in pots in the UK cutting it if wet, which is not Opening our garden again
were released from their recommended on the slope, has been a dream come true
constrictive prisons and even with a tractor. This all for both of us.
dug in. Lots of specimen makes for an interesting and opengardens.eu

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 61


LA MAISON

Flavours of France
WHOLE JOHN DORY WITH CLAMS & COURGETTES

Also known as Saint Peters fish, after the patron saint of fishermen,
John Dory is a beautiful fish. This was the first dish I cooked on the
show, and no sooner had I finished and walked away to wash my hands
than some eager French people huddled around the pan and started
to dive in. A vote of confidence, if ever I saw one! - JAMES MARTIN
WHOLE JOHN DORY WITH CLAMS & COURGETTES Serves 2

INGREDIENTS METHOD
2 courgettes, thickly sliced 1 Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6.
2 heritage tomatoes, 2 Arrange the courgettes and tomatoes over the base
thickly sliced of a roasting tin. Slot the shallot slices in between the
2 shallots, thinly sliced courgettes and tomatoes.
1 x 1kg John Dory, gutted 3 Season with salt and pepper.
and fins removed 4 Season the John Dory with salt and pepper, place on top
50ml olive oil of the vegetables and drizzle with half the olive oil. Pour
375ml dry white wine the white wine over and scatter with the basil leaves.
15 basil leaves Cover tightly with foil and cook in the oven for 20 minutes. Recipe and photograph
300g clams, washed Carefully lift off the foil and add the clams, then cover taken from James
handful of flat-leaf again and return to the oven for a further 5 minutes or Martins French
parsley leaves until the clams open up (discard any that remain closed). Adventure (Quadrille,
sea salt and freshly 5 Remove from the oven, scatter over the parsley leaves and 20.00). Photography
ground black pepper add a final drizzle of olive oil. by Peter Cassidy.

ON THE MENU NEXT MONTH: ICED BLACKBERRY SOUFFLS

WHAT TO DRINK
This month, Richard Hemming examines the syrah grape variety

One of Frances greatest vinous exports, syrah is far better Typically, they are deep coloured with fresh bramble fruit
known by its other name: shiraz. Whatever is written on the flavours, medium body and complex flavours ranging from
label, its the same variety in the bottle. However, there is an savoury spice to pepper to charred meat. The most sought-
implication about style: most wine labelled shiraz tends to be after appellations such as Hermitage and Cte-Rtie rarely cost
full-bodied, ripe and jammy, while syrah is a more fragrant and less than 25, but there are some bargains to be had (see my
restrained style, often characterised by a piquant spiciness. recommendations below).
Climate is the key to the difference. While typical shiraz Syrah is also often used as a blending variety with grenache
from Australia tends to come from hot regions, the heartland and others to make Ctes-du-Rhne reds though it is usually
of syrah in France is cooler, by viticultural standards: the in the minority. You can also find syrah used to make ros.
northern Rhne valley. Running between Vienne and Valence, Also, look out for syrah-viognier blends, where up to 10% of the
this region only produces 5% of the valleys wine, but it white grape viognier is blended in a most unusual innovation,
specialises in syrah. based on the recipe for Cte-Rtie.

Domaine de Montval, Syrah 2015 Michel et Stphane Ogier, La Rosine Delas, Domaine des Grands
PGI Pays du Gard Syrah 2014 PGI Collines Rhodaniennes Chemins 2014 Crozes-Hermitage
(8.99 Majestic Wine) (14.60 Lay & Wheeler) (19 The Wine Society)
The Gard department is one of the Just opposite Cte-Rtie (one of the Delas is one of my favourite Rhne
three main parts of the Languedoc, Rhne valleys top appellations) producers, and this Crozes-
where swathes of vineyards are hillsides known as the Collines Hermitage is an absolute
produce reliably good-value Rhodaniennes. The Romans prized stonker. It comes from their own
wine from dozens of different these vines, yet they remain largely organic domaine within a large
varieties. Despite the relatively undiscovered today. Thankfully, appellation area that takes its
warm origins, this syrah from producers such as the Ogiers are name from the prestigious hill
Domaine de Montval has making wines that prove the of Hermitage. This example is
surprising delicacy. Full of black regions potential, with pristine rich and smoky, with typical
pepper, floral fragrance and black fruit and a wonderful black peppercorn spice on the
juicy blackberry fruit and savoury meaty character. If this finish and chewy tannin that
comes with a hefty discount had Cte-Rtie on the label, it will support bottle maturation
when you buy six! would cost twice the price. for up to a decade.

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 63


LANGUAGE
Expand your vocabulary, discover the latest language-learning aids
and have fun with our favourite puzzles

BOOKMARK THIS!
When youre reading a French book or
magazine, do you ever need to stop to look
up a word? This slim, easy-to-use electronic
dictionary allows you to quickly and easily
look up the meaning
of a French word, and
can also be used as a
bookmark. The device
uses content from
the Collins French-
English dictionary, and
with a 2.5mm wide
keypad, it can easily be
tucked inside a book.
The French-English
electronic dictionary
bookmark costs 24.99.
ifplc.com

SUBSCRIBE to Living France


and receive a free electronic dictionary/
bookmark see more on page 52

Get the vocab: poisson


Faux
amis
Meaning fish, poisson is used in many French phrases. Faire une queue de poisson
qqn means to cut in front of somebody when driving. Finir en queue de poisson means
to fizzle out and noyer le poisson means to confuse the issue. The French equivalent of
taking to something like a duck to water is comme un poisson dans leau.

Have you ever used the wrong French


word to the amusement of others?
LYON LIFE Students can even study
With a study centre based in towards official diplomas Have lived in France for a whole six weeks
the heart of Lyon, Inflexyon which are acknowledged by and cheerfully announced to an old lady
ILLUSTRATION RITA EVANS; TRISTAN DESCHAMPS/LYON TOURISME

offers French lessons for universities and employers. stepping out of the bread shop that I was
learners of all levels, with A personalised intensive very frigid!
courses available throughout course of 30 lessons a week Kelly Dawe via Facebook
the year. General French (25 group lessons and five
lessons are available as private lessons) costs 385 If you have a handy tip for learning French,
well as cultural workshops for 1-6 weeks (the fee please let us know by emailing editorial@
and speciality courses, reduces for longer-length livingfrance.com or contact us on:
with language tailored for courses). There is also a twitter.com/
specific subject areas such one-off registration fee of LivingFrance
as business, medical and 50. Accommodation can be
facebook.com/
legal. Class sizes are small provided at an extra cost.
livingfrancemagazine
with around 15 pupils. inflexyon.com

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 65


LANGUAGE

- R+) French
Test your language skills and improve your vocabulary with these fun French games

LES MOTS CACHS Le mot commun


Work out the word that links these groups
If the clue is in French, find the English equivalent
together, plus their English translation
and vice versa. Theme: renting property

L A N D L O R D Y A D C R L
Example. 1.
N U J H I G M E S R T K O I coup de ~~~~ goutte d ~~~~
P F O L A N A I V C P U H S dame de ~~~~ ~~~~ gazeuse
A T R A B U C D E N E G O T un ~~~~ de pierre tomber l ~~~~
S G H J V X U I N R S B I N mal au ~~~~ ~~~~ frache
S E S F D H O S R P E S T L ~~~~ ouvert
U D L E R I A T A C O L K V FR _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
R S T L N E B R L P U M H E FR _FRHXU
___________ EN _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
A E F T G O P M E N D F W T EN KHDUW
____________
N R N H R E N D S P L K C T
C D A T U R E I F Y T E L I 2. 3.
E G S L Y T S P A H J S P N faire une ~~~~ pot de ~~~~
L K I L A G H D U I K B V G ~~~~ de peau avoir une ~~~~
C V U Y R O T N E V N I C E ~~~~ du printemps vivre la ~~~~
en ~~~~ faire chauffer la ~~~~
loyer propritaire tenant
to rent tenancy agreement caution FR _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ FR _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
enqute tats des lieux insurance EN _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ EN _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

WHERE AM I?
Je suis un Cap de la Cte
dAzur qui a une vue sur la baie
de Villefranche-sur-Merr
___ ______
Je suis une ville-tape du Tour
Un transat de France 2017 connue pour mes
Une cabine de plage lentilles vertes

Un seau
__ ___

( ! % )n)
Match the picture to the correct word
-__-_____

66 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


Unscramble the letters +% n-+%)  %  1!% ''
to find four French jobs

1 NIRAJIDER
2 VUERERS
3 NAMO
4 TUCERAF
Revenons nos moutons (lets return to our sheep)
Lets get back to the subject

Crossword
Across Down
1 apple (5) 2 bear (4)
4 they went - elles sont ... (6) 3 headache (3,2,4)
8 dawn, first light (4) 5 high school students,
10 to burn (6) sixth formers (female) (9)
12 rubber (10) 6 school (5)
14 seventh (8) 7 sited, situated (5)
15 exhausted (6) 8 see you soon - a
16 silk (4) tout .... (1,6)
18 cloud (5) 9 brown hair (brunette or
20 she (4) chestnut) - cheveux ... (5)
22 goose (3) 11 she laughs - elle ... (3)
23 curtain (6) 13 to weigh (5)
25 bag (3) 17 toy (5)
27 Russia (6) 19 screen (5)
30 she will go - elle ... (3) 21 law (3)
31 foot (4) 24 here (3)
33 in the process of - en ... de (5) 26 fifth (9)
34 at the end of the earth 28 to injure oneself (2,7)
- au ... du monde (4) 29 between (5)
35 goat (6) 32 to guess (7)
38 leaves (8) 36 grass (5)
41 frog (10) 37 study (document or
42 helmet (6) written account) (5)
43 fear (4) 38 madness (5)
44 well brought up - 39 lake (3)
bien ... (of a girl) (6) 40 ... dOrsay - French
PICTURES ARTISTEER/THINKSTOCK; BARNEYBOOGLES/FOTOLIA; ISTOCKPHOTO; SUDOWOODO/THINKSTOCK;

45 sign of the cross - Ministry of Foreign Affairs (4)


signe de ... (5)

WIN! ato12-month subscription To enter our prize crossword competition, complete the grid

Living France and fill in your details in the coupon below, then send them by
post to: Living France Crossword Competition, Cumberland House,
Oriel Road, Cheltenham, GL50 1BB quoting ref: CROSSLFAUG17
Put your French to the test and complete this months crossword
to be in with a chance of winning a 12-month subscription to Name
Living France. The closing date for entries is 6 August 2017. Address

ANSWERS TO THE JUNE ISSUE: Tel


Across: 8 Ail, 9 Devant, 10 Canard, 12 Ange, 13 Tenter, 14 Mieux, 15 Ennemi, 16 Espagnole, 19
Email
Dsol, 22 Chat, 23 Mensuel, 24 Fier, 25 Inond, 26 Ouverture, 29 Ragir, 32 tres, 33 Ouvert, 34
CROSSWORD BY JAN TODD

Char, 36 Perdre, 37 Espion, 38 Fe.


Terms and conditions: Standard Archant competition rules apply, available on request. One
entry per household. The judges decision is final and binding and no correspondence will be
Down: 1 Oignon, 2 Certainement, 3 Jaune, 4 Athes, 5 Ici, 6 Ancien, 7 Brouillard, 11 Recevoir, 17 entered into. Neither Archant employees nor their relatives are eligible to enter the competition.
Amlioration, 18 Cinq, 20 tiquettes, 21 Puis, 22 Croyance, 27 tendu, 28 Routes, 30 Images, 31 The winners will be notified by letter of their prize after the closing date. Depending on the contact
Temps, 35 Sel. details you give us, Living France may mail, email or phone you with offers, products and services
reflecting your preferences. If you dont want offers from us or third parties, please write no offers in
the top left-hand corner of your entry.
The winner of the June crossword is: Christine Beyaert from Highworth, Wilts

completefrance.com Check your answers on page


August 2017 Living 85
France 67
INSIGHT
THE

The practical information youll need to know


when moving to and living in France, including
expert legal, financial and property advice

70 GUIDE TO: RENTING IN FRANCE


The essential information
youll need if youve decided
76 NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK
Considering buying a new-build
property in France? Our expert
82 TAKE THE PLUNGE
Looking for a home with a swimming
pool? Get ready to dive in and make
to try before you buy explains the legal process of the most of the summer sunshine with
purchasing off-plan and the our round-up of properties for sale

72 GUIDE TO: RENTING IN


FRANCE VOCABULARY
guarantees in place

84 ROUTE MAP
Conversations to help you learn
the key vocab and phrases 78 HIDE AND SEEK
The role of a buyers agent and how
they can help you to find your dream
All the routes to France in one place to
help you plan your journey across the
Channel by plane, boat or train

74 ASK THE EXPERTS


Your questions answered by our
home in France

86 PROPERTY DIRECTORY
FERMATE/THINKSTOCK

panel of experts. This month:


making a will, applying for a French
mortgage, and property surveys
80 PROPERTY AND CURRENCY NEWS
The latest from the French property
market, plus a currency update
A guide to the buying process in
France, plus properties for sale and to
let across the country

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 69


THE ESSENTIALS

GUIDE TO: RENTING A


PROPERTY IN FRANCE
Renting a property is a good way to find out what its like to live in an area,
and what you want from your French home, before you commit to buying.
Kate McNally explains what you need to know about the process

I
n France, around 40% of tenancy agreement (un bail): des risques locatifs), except if the tenant is
the population live in rented One proof of identity. a student or receiving social benefits. The
accommodation, split almost half Last three rent payment invoices, or guarantor will be held liable to pay the rent
and half between private and social reference from previous landlord, or last if the tenant defaults or is unable to pay for
housing. As you might expect, taxe foncire (property tax) statement. any reason.
there is more rental accommodation Employment contract, or student The tenant, meanwhile, can request to
in towns and cities than in more rural card, or self-employment certificate, see survey reports, for example relating
areas, and in certain places there is strong or professional certificate for to energy performance and natural risks,
competition. If youve decided to move independent professionals such as before signing on the dotted line.
to France but want to try before you buy, barristers and doctors.
renting a property can be a good way to dip Last three months wage slips, or WHAT WILL YOU PAY?
a toe in the water and explore an area to see employment contract, or last two years A deposit In most cases, you will be
if it suits your requirements. accounts if self-employed, or proof of expected to pay a deposit (une caution) at
social welfare grants. the start of your tenancy, to be held by the
FINDING SOMEWHERE Copy of latest income tax payment (paid landlord throughout the rental period as
TO RENT annually in France). security to pay for any potential damages or
Often, but not always, the local mairie or Proof of student grant, for students. cleaning or repairs required through your
communaut de communes has a list of Proof of receipt of social benefits, if this is neglect. For unfurnished property (logement
available rental accommodation in the area. relevant. non meubl), this deposit is equivalent to
The majority of estate agents also have a one months rent; for furnished houses or
rental section, so visit a few in your target Similarly, documents proving financial apartments (logement meubl) its usually
area to see what they have on their books stability will be required for anyone acting two months rent. Landlords must return
in your price range. Many local shops are as a guarantor, should the landlord request this deposit within a month of the end of
happy to display offers and searches for one. A landlord cannot seek a guarantor, the tenancy agreement, or the balance of
rented lodgings in their specific area, and however, if they have taken out rental the deposit money within two months if any
local papers or magazines carry notices in accommodation risk insurance (garantie repair or cleaning work is required.
the small ads section. Finally, when youve
narrowed down your search area, take House insurance Its obligatory for tenants
time to walk around the different roads in France to take out a house insurance
and alleys. Quite a few property owners in called assurance risques locatifs, in addition
France publicise their housing to rent with a to any insurance the property owner may
simple louer sign. have. This insurance covers the cost of
damages from fire or flooding, for example
DOCUMENTATION (although not any damage to neighbouring
Quite naturally, as everywhere in the world, properties). The cost varies between
the property owner wants to be sure that insurers but is generally around 2% to 2.5%
a prospective tenant is solvent and in a of the annual rent.
ELENA ELISSEEVA/DREAMSTIME; STUDIO PORTO

position to pay the monthly rent. This For some reason, this insurance is not
SABBIA/FOTOLIA; RAMIRAISE/THINKSTOCK

is perhaps more of a concern for French mandatory for furnished rentals, but it
landlords, as it can be very difficult to evict is however advisable as you will have to
a tenant in France (see right). In order to reimburse the owner for any damages for
facilitate this vetting process, but without which you are responsible. Nor does it cover
allowing a landlord to make ridiculous your own belongings, so you may want to
requests, the French authorities state that opt for an additional, more comprehensive,
he or she is entitled to ask for any of the house insurance called assurance
following documents ahead of drawing up a multirisques habitation. Again costs vary

70 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


OBLIGATIONS
Landlords have an obligation
to provide accommodation
that meets acceptable
standards in terms of fittings,
hygiene and safety.

DID YOU Thereafter, tenants

KNOW... have an obligation to


maintain the standard
In case of a dispute with a of the lodging
landlord, contact ANIL (lAgence throughout the
National pour lInformation tenancy. This means
sur le Logement) in the you will be expected to
first instance for advice look after the interior and
anil.org exterior of the property,
depending on size, location and the insurer, terminate the tenancy including the condition of
however in 2016 the average cost was 251 at the end of three years if windows, wallpaper and paint,
for an apartment, rising to 352 for a house. they want to sell their home (in heating and plumbing, getting
which case the tenant has first right to buy), the chimney swept, etc. The only
Taxe dhabitation Effectively a council move into it themselves or house a family time you can ask the landlord to
tax, you will receive an annual bill for your member, or for serious misconduct on the fix or replace something is if it is
taxe dhabitation. Its a good idea to check part of the tenant such as repeated missed broken or has stopped functioning
the level of tax levied by the commune in rent payments or causing trouble with due to wear and tear. The word
advance, as it can vary considerably, to an neighbours. They must also give six months the French use for this is vtuste,
extent that it could be a factor in your choice notice in writing, prior to the end which means old and worn.
of where to live. The average charge in larger of the agreement period. So, although as a tenant in
towns (more than 100,000 inhabitants) was France you benefit from greater
just under 1,100 in 2016 for example, but INVENTORY protection in terms of tenancy
this included some charges as low as 480 The tats des lieux is effectively a formal rights than in the UK, the flipside
and others as high as 1,400. The tax is and legal inventory procedure carried is that there is more onus on you
generally lower in rural areas, closer to 400 out at the beginning and end of a tenancy, in terms of ongoing responsibility
or 500 each year. essentially to check that everything is in for the upkeep and maintenance
And, of course, the monthly rent! Again, good repair and the property is in the same of the property.
this cost varies widely depending on where condition as when you moved in. It is worth
and how big, with recent figures from noting that in France this procedure is more
LOCService.fr putting the average months rigorous than in the UK landlords are
rent at 624. This amount will generally get within their rights, for example, to ask you
you a property of between 40m2 and 45m2, to clean carpets, replace damaged flooring,
with variances of just 15m2 in Paris and up wash or even repaint walls and fill in any
to 75m2 in St-tienne. Long-term rentals in holes, however small.
rural areas are generally slightly cheaper, In short, any damage or deterioration
reflecting lower demand. to the interior and exterior of the property,
that is not the result of expected wear and
ENDING THE TENANCY tear during the tenancy period, is your
Tenancy agreements for long-term responsibility to repair or replace. Failure to
unfurnished rental accommodation in do this could compromise full repayment
France are established for three years. of your deposit. If costs for the work exceed
(Occasionally, it can be for one year, in the deposit, youll be required to pay the
exceptional circumstances.) After this extra. You can ask to see receipts for any
period, they can be renewed for another work carried out.
three years, or ended. Usually, the bail Its best, if possible, to be present at the
stipulates a minimum initial period of a few tat des lieux and agree with the property
months, after which time you, as the tenant, owner what does and doesnt need to be
can terminate the agreement whenever you done. Then, you can decide whether to
want with three months written notice. undertake the work yourself or agree an
This notice should be sent by recorded post. amount to be deducted from your deposit
Its not quite so straightforward for the to pay for any work needed. That way youll
landlord, with French laws affording greater
protection to tenants, no doubt because of
avoid any nasty surprises and dissuade any
less scrupulous landlords from inventing or
TURN OVER
For our renting in France
the greater numbers of citizens who rent exaggerating any issues to keep hold of your
vocabulary guide
their homes. The property owner can only deposit money.

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 71


THE ESSENTIALS

GUIDE TO: RENTING A PROPERTY


PRACTICAL VOCABULARY
WORDS: PETER STEWART

FINDING A PROPERTY
John et Sarah, tous les deux de Londres,
veulent sinstaller en France et se
rendent un agent immobilier Nantes
pour rechercher des proprits.

John et Sarah: Bonjour!


Agent immobilier: Bonjour! Comment
puis-je vous aider?
John: Nous avons dcid de nous
installer dans ce coin de la France et
nous recherchons des proprits qui
correspondent notre fourchette
de prix.
a: Quelle bonne nouvelle! Bienvenue
Nantes! Quel type de proprit
souhaitez-vous acheter?
Sarah: Nous recherchons une maison
avec deux chambres et un petit jardin et RENTAL CONTRACT J-L: Daccord. Et il devrait nous
suffisamment de place pour accueillir Kathy et Jean-Luc, un couple franco- rembourser le dpt de garantie de
quelques amis. Quant lemplacement, americain, ont fait une offre pour une 1,200, nest-ce pas?
nous aimerons trouver une petite maison dans la valle de la Loire et K: Oui, Franois devrait certainement
maison situe en centre ville, o la quitteront leur appartement lou nous la rembourser parce quon na
pharmacie, le supermarch etc sont 10 Rennes dans quelques mois. Ils relisent rien endommag a lintrieur de
mn pied de chez nous. Et notre limite leur contrat pour voir quelles sont les lappartement.
est 250,000. rgles concernant leur priode de pravis. J-L: Tu as raison. propos, Marion qui
a: Daccord. Merci pour les prcisions. travaille lpicerie juste en face ma dit
Alors, je suis ravi de vous dire que nous Kathy: Chri, il faut trouver le contrat que la rumeur courrait que Franois allait
avons des proprits qui pourraient vous pour voir quand nous devons prvenir le vendre lappartement et toutes ses autres
AURORECAR/FOTOLIA; FRANCE68/THINKSTOCK
convenir. Je vais chercher les brochures. propritaire de notre dpart. proprits pour se dplacer ltranger.
S: Parfait, merci. Jean-Luc: Je pense que cest dans le Mais elle men avait parl il y a presque
a: Voil. Je vous laisse lire toute bureau. Attends Voil. deux mois et Franois ne nous a rien dit.
linformation dedans. Voici ma carte K: Selon le contrat, pour un appartement K: a doit tre juste une rumeur, parce
PHOTOWITCH/DREAMSTIME

si vous souhaitez en parler plus ou non meubl, nous devons donner notre que si tu lis les conditions gnrales du
organiser une visite. pravis de dpart au moins trois mois contrat, il prcise que le propritaire doit
J: Merci beaucoup. Nous serons en lavance. Jai oubli que cet appart ntait donner un pravis de six mois de leur
contact. pas meubl lorsque nous sommes arrivs. intention de vendre une proprit.

VOCABULAIRE
fourchette de prix dpt de garantie / caution tre en ordre effectuer une vrification en
price range deposit to be in order profondeur
organiser une visite donner un pravis de six mois locataire a thorough check
arrange a viewing to give six months notice tenant preuve didentit
appartement non meubl faire ltat des lieux entretien proof of identity
unfurnished apartment carry out an inventory maintenance/upkeep

72 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


MOVING IN
Matt, 26 ans et dorigine anglaise, parle
son nouveau propritaire Paris au sujet
des documents quil doit prparer avant
demmnager dans lappartement.

Matt: Bonjour. Jadore cet appartement


cest douillet! Je comprends quil y a
certains documents dont vous aurez
besoin.
M. Chevalier: Bonjour. Je suis content que
lappartement vous convienne. Je prefre
MOVING OUT effectuer une vrification en profondeur
Les Australiens Josh et Mindy sont de tous mes locataires et donc jai besoin
sur le point de dmnager aprs avoir de plusieurs types de documents. Le
achet une maison Biarritz. Ils premier document quil me faut est
attendent leur propritaire pour faire une preuve didentit. Apportez votre M: Tout fait.
ltat des lieux. passeport la semaine prochaine et jen m. C: Et je vous serais reconnaissant de
prendrai une photocopie. bien vouloir menvoyer une copie de votre
Josh et Mindy: Bonjour, Monsieur M: Daccord, pas de souci. De quels autres dernier paiement de limpt sur le revenu.
Dupont. formulaires avez-vous besoin? Une fois que jaurai reu tout cela, je peux
M. Dupont: Bonjour. Alors, je vais juste m. C: Il me faut aussi des copies de vos crer votre bail.
faire une inspection rapide. trois dernires factures de loyer ainsi M: Daccord, je vais chercher tout ce quil
[15 minutes plus tard] quune copie de votre contrat de travail. vous faut. Et quen est-il de la caution?
Je vois que tout semble tre en ordre Vous travaillez comme journaliste pour Dois-je la payer avant demmnager
dans la cuisine, la salle de bain et la Agence France Presse, nest-ce pas? dans lappartement?
chambre. Par contre, le tapis dans m. C: Oui, vous devez me payer le loyer
le salon et le mur sont tous les deux de deux mois, soit 1,400. Je garderai
tchs. Si vous pouvez frotter le tapis et cela comme une garantie pour payer tout
repeindre le mur, je ne dirai rien dommage que vous pourriez causer. La
ce sujet. caution vous sera rembourse lorsque
Josh: Aucun problme. Je ferai vous quittez lappartement condition que
tout demain. vous layez gard en bon ordre.
m. D: Cest gnial. Dernire chose: M: Daccord, merci. Je dois aussi prendre
les fentres. Je vois quelles sont trs une assurance risques locatifs. Et jaimerais
propres, et il ny a pas de condensation prendre une assurance multirisques
ni de fissures. Cest parfait. habitation pour protger mes biens contre
Mindy: Alors, est-ce que cela veut dire le vol. On ne sait jamais
que vous nous rembourserez la caution? m. C: Oui, cest trs judicieux. Avant que
m. D: Oh oui, je vous la rendrai le plus joublie, je dois vous informer de la taxe
tt possible. Vous tes les meilleurs dhabitation que vous devez payer. Dans
locataires que jaie jamais eus dans cet ce quartier, elle est denviron 950 par
appartement. Il y a avait deux hommes an. Je ne sais pas si vous le savez dj,
paresseux qui vivaient ici avant et mais vous recevrez la facture la fin de
lappartement montrait clairement un chaque anne. Je vous recommande donc
manque dentretien. Inutile de dire que de mettre un peu dargent de ct chaque
je ne leur ai rien rembours quand ils mois pour pouvoir rgler sans aucun
sont partis. problme.

TEST YOUR FRENCH


formulaire impt sur le revenu Connaissez-vous lquivalent anglais
form income tax
de ces termes?
facture de loyer bail 1. Us
rent bill lease agreement 2. Fuite deau ANSWERS
contrat de travail loyer 3. Coupure de courant
can be found on page 85
employment contract rent 4. Chaudire

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 73


THE ESSENTIALS

Q&A: ASK THE EXPERTS


Our panel of experts provide the answers to your queries

AFFAIRS IN ORDER incur 60% inheritance tax on the French

Q My husband and I neglected to


update our wills when we married
15 years ago, and we are now
looking to rectify this. In 2015 we bought a
property. Ive read that there are ways
around this but I dont know what they
are yet.)
My husband intends to leave everything
French property to use as a holiday home. to me unless he outlives me, in which case
We had a tontine clause inserted at the he will leave it all to his children.
compromis de vente stage of the purchase Can a UK will include our property in
so that on the first death, the surviving France? If so, does that mean that UK law
spouse becomes the sole owner. We also can be applied so that the children will
own our home in England. get the property, or will there need to be
I have no children but my husband has something different put in place?
two adult children. In my will I want to If possible, we will need to go along
leave everything to my husband, but if I the cheapest route available to keep costs
outlive him I intend to leave it all to my to a minimum.
stepchildren. (I do know that they will KATH MCNALLY

A
The first point to note is that the same format as now, in relation to UK drafted carefully to ensure that one does
when you married, your nationals, following the UKs departure not accidentally revoke the other, and that
existing wills may well have from the EU. they do not work to cover the same assets.
been revoked automatically: in some It will be possible for the survivor of In addition, it is also to be noted that
countries, including England and you two to leave everything to the children the EU Succession Regulation does not
Wales, a will is immediately revoked on as intended. That can be completed under affect the position on inheritance tax, and
marriage unless it is carefully drafted the terms of a will whether French or as such consideration should generally be
with an express provision that it should English, or even one of each. There is given to this as well.
not be revoked. In the circumstances a long discussion among international In this case, therefore, you should
described, I anticipate this is not the probate and inheritance lawyers as to probably be looking to ensure you both
case, so you could both be without a will. whether one will or two is preferable. have a will or two wills in place to cover
Nevertheless, if a tontine clause was In practice there are strong arguments all of your assets, and to ensure that your
inserted in the purchase deed then either way. However, whichever option is wishes as to the devolution of your estates
irrespective of the terms of any will, the taken, where assets are held in different following your deaths will be respected.
survivor of you two would most probably jurisdictions it is important to seek the It is very important for people to ensure
inherit the French house absolutely. What assistance of solicitors with suitable cross- that their wills are suitably in place. It is
happens at the time of the second death border experience. While preparing just an invariably preferable to have these drafted
then depends on your wills. English will to cover all assets might well properly by solicitors, in particular where
The EU Succession Regulation came work, it may be the case that this would there are assets in other countries, in
into force in 2015, substantially amending result in substantial difficulty in the post- which case solicitors with suitable cross-
how inheritance rules can apply in cross- death administration. border inheritance advice knowledge
border successions. It is important to note If it is deemed preferable for you both should be consulted.
that it should remain in force in exactly to prepare two wills, then these should be MATTHEW CAMERON

The experts
MATTHEW AURORE DAVIS ANDREW BAILEY
CAMERON
ISTOCK; VIMVERTIYO / THINKSTOCK

is a mortgage specialist is founder and head


is a partner and with VousFinancer, a of Surveylink France, a
head of the French broker specialising in French property survey
legal services team French mortgages. company with offices
at Ashtons Legal. aurore.davis@ in the UK and France.
ashtonslegal.co.uk vousfinancer.com surveylink-france.com

74 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


BUYING WITH A FRENCH MORTGAGE

Q Ive decided to buy a house in France this year and despite having
sufficient cash funds available following my UK house sale, Im
considering financing the purchase with a French mortgage. Would
this be an option for me as Im self-employed? Im told it would be helpful to
have a mortgage in principle in place when Im viewing properties, and again
wondered if Id be eligible for this?
LUCY WILDE

A
Being self-employed does not preclude you from If you sell your house in the UK and you are hoping to put some
obtaining a French mortgage and every case is of the proceeds towards your new acquisition, this money will
considered on its own merits. It is a good idea to need to be available when you apply for your French mortgage.
study the market through a mortgage broker before arranging Any surplus money left over after calculations will help support
viewings, as it might help you refine your search when looking your application. Indeed, lenders like to see that you have buffer
for your ideal property. funds for rainy days after you complete your purchase.
If you are self-employed you will need to provide a Incidentally, and even if you have enough to buy your French
minimum of three years tax returns (some lenders will expect property in cash, with interest rates in France at a historic low
to see five years) as proof of your income. Your borrowing (e.g. 2.00% fixed over 15 years), it is a good idea to take out a
capacity will be calculated on your average net earnings. mortgage and discuss your options regarding any surplus cash
The rule of thumb when calculating how much you with a financial adviser.
can afford is that your outgoings (including the monthly There are other things lenders will consider when studying
repayments for the new mortgage) should not exceed a third your application, such as if your spouse has a regular income
of your income. On top of that, you will need to prove that you with a permanent contract of employment.
have at least 15% of the purchase price available as deposit, Generally, you should remember that every case is unique
and enough money to cover the fees (solicitors mainly) which and that lenders will want to hear your story when considering
represent 8-10% of the purchase price. This must be paid on your application.
completion and cannot be borrowed as part of your mortgage. AURORE DAVIS

BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY any planned changes to give the client an

Q
Were currently looking at properties in France and have seen one that we think idea of the costs of the purchase.
has potential it would definitely be a project! Its an old barn which wed like Most surveyors will provide a range
to convert into a house and possibly a gte, and wed like to know how feasible of surveys from basic inspections, which
this would be. Some work has already been done and we suspect its substandard, so we report solely on those issues raised by their
expect this would need to be re-done. Were a bit concerned that this might have done client, to detailed comprehensive reports
more damage than good, and that its hiding further defects. What are our options to include comments on the condition of
before we commit to buying it? each of the various buildings elements,
MARTIN BAKER hidden matters such as damp and
structure, technical and financial analysis
of the diagnostics reports and possibly the

A
Old stone houses always pull (such as barns) are converted to habitable flagging up of other issues of interest to
at our heartstrings, but is the accommodation, or where partial their client, such as difficult access to the
property in as good condition as renovations have already been undertaken, site, or proximity to neighbours.
you believe, and does it provide the future then an assessment of this work should be The style and length of text provided
potential you require? reported upon in the survey. will usually govern the surveyors fee.
In my experience, a pre-purchase An independent view of a chartered However, because of the lack of building
inspection is vital. Although a property surveyor will provide the purchaser with controls, a comprehensive report ought to
is bought as seen in most countries, the an experienced opinion of the technical be considered.
shortened UK purchasing process of checks status of the property, highlighting its ANDREW BAILEY
and balances to highlight building faults strengths and weaknesses and its potential

Q
in France vastly reduces the purchasers as regards the planned changes envisaged.
ability to iron these issues out before it is
too late. Purchasers with poor contractors
The chartered surveyor will ultimately
become liable for technical advice he or DO YOU HAVE
then have to rely on the level of insurances she gives. This alone should provide the A QUESTION?
of the individual contractor as well as the purchaser with additional peace of mind.
French legal system. The better reports will often include
TO ASK OUR PANEL OF EXPERTS
Where commercial property (such as practical advice and an estimate of costs
Email us at editorial@livingfrance.com
shops or offices) or utilitarian buildings for defects, recommended upgrading and

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 75


THE ESSENTIALS

NEW KIDS
ON THE BLOCK
Considering buying a new-build property in France?
Matthew Cameron explains the legal process and the
guarantees in place to protect your investment

W
hile buying an existing
property is surely the
most common option for
Brits looking to secure
their home in France,
we are regularly instructed to assist those
who are looking to buy a new house or
apartment. Sometimes, this will involve
the purchase of a completed building that
has never been occupied and is being sold
by a developer. Most commonly, though, a
buyer will have seen plans, and perhaps a
model or computer-generated visual, but
nothing more.
It may seem to some to be a brave
decision to buy a French property based
on a few plans. In reality we all accept that
no purchase old or new is entirely free Above: This new development in St-Raphal in
of any risk, yet clearly an off-plan purchase property purchase rather than a new build, Var includes apartments ranging in price from
217,000 to 492,000 (sextantproperties.com)
gives rise to its own risks. In this article, we there is very little that can replace a visit
shall consider some of the main points of and inspection. Visiting a previous site
note in the process of buying a home that will demonstrate the construction differences are understandable: if the
is yet to be built. quality, and a visit to the intended new property does not exist, it is not possible to
development is invaluable. complete a contract to purchase it. Instead,
DO YOUR HOMEWORK Clearly, one of the risks of buying a therefore, a buyer will reserve the right
Perhaps the first question to ask is whether new-build property is that the construction to complete a purchase as and when a
the builder is suitably reputable. If at all will not be complete. To protect against property is developed.
possible, it is wise to visit any previous this, the purchase deed will need to A reservation contract also means that
developments, both those that have been contain extra guarantees on the part of the if for any reason the construction work
finished and any that may be in the process developer. In the event that the developer does not start, the buyer is entitled to a full
of construction. Just as is company became insolvent during the reimbursement of the deposit they have
the case for a construction process, there should be a paid, albeit no further penalties could be
standard guarantee by virtue of which sufficient imposed on the developer.
finance would be available to continue
CONTRACT CONDITIONS
NEW-BUILD the build. It is important to ensure that
this guarantee is in place, and it should be Yet why would a developer not proceed

SAVINGS reiterated in the initial purchase contract.


This initial contract differs in various
with any work? This question appears to be
one of the most misunderstood points of
New-build properties used as a main home ways from what one may expect in a the new-build process, at least in relation
are exempt from taxe foncire for the first two standard purchase, when the parties to multiple property developments such as
years after construction. The H1 tax form must would typically sign a promesse de a housing estate or an apartment block.
be filed with the local tax authorities within 90 vente or a compromis de vente. In a It is often the case that the developer
days of completion of the property. new-build purchase the buyer is company may not even own the land upon
Notaires fees on new-build properties (less than generally asked to sign a contrat which the construction work is to take
five years old) are lower typically between 2-3% de rservation (reservation place. A relatively common scenario is that
compared with 7-10% on older properties. contract). The reasons for the a developer will agree with a landowner

76 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


to buy some land, on the condition that deed. Commonly, some 30% of the overall OFF-PLAN
they are able to pre-sell enough homes price would be payable when the deed is GUARANTEES
on the site to ensure that it will be able to signed, with the balance in fractions after Developers must have a bank guarantee
make a profit on the construction. Also, that, when the developer has reached the for each development, which ensures it
the provision of a financial guarantee as next stage. will be completed even if the developer
mentioned above will often require that the Once the property is finally ready for or builder gets into financial difficulties
developer can justify to its bank having pre- handover to the buyer, a snagging list is (garantie financire). Other covenants
sold a specific minimum number of units. created on a final inspection. We would include a one-year completion
Prudent, therefore, to understand from the check that the final deed incorporates an guarantee (moluments de ngociation)
reservation contract whether the developer obligation on the developer to allow for and a 10-year building guarantee
already owns the land. this, and to carry out any repairs that may (garantie dcennale). Other guarantees
In addition, the developer may well be necessary. include the two-year guarantee of
not have full planning permission in perfect functioning for systems such as
place to proceed with the work. Again it PROTECTING BOTH SIDES plumbing and electrics, and a one-year
is sensible to understand from the terms It is clear, then, that a number of guarantee against minor defects such as
of the contract whether permission has protections must be incorporated in the cracking in plaster.
already been obtained, or whether this is a contract in favour of the buyer. Yet the
condition of the sale completing. If nothing seller the developer is entitled to
else, this may extend substantially the certain protections as well. If ownership
period before completion of the sale would is transferred when only the foundations
be due, and then when the property would are complete, it is reasonable to expect that
actually be delivered. the developer is entitled to some protection
to ensure the remaining stage payments
COMPLETION PROCESS are made. The sale deed may contain the
On this last point, there is a distinction to right for the developer to register a charge
be made between new-build and standard against the property, to charge interest
purchases. With a new build, completion on any late payments, and even to
(being signature of the sale deed) will rescind the sale.
take place well in advance of the moment Most of the points above relate to
keys are finally handed over. The notaire new-build work on a larger development.
will usually look to complete when the Another common example is a private build
foundations are finished. agreement, where the buyer purchases
The buyers will therefore become the a plot of land and enters into a separate
proud owners of a property that will not be agreement with a building company for the

CONTRACTS
complete and ready for occupation. Indeed, work. Such contracts are also well protected
if you are looking to buy an apartment under French law. In such cases the buyer
on an upper floor of a particular block, still needs to be aware of the construction The contrat de rservation should include
construction of that particular apartment guarantees that exist, the anticipated work full details of the property to be built,
may not even have started. schedule and delivery period, the stage services to be provided, construction
This gives rise to another concept payment schedule and so on. timetable, price (including possibly
particular to the new-build process: the It is clear that a new-build purchase variations), schedule of payments and
contract must contain specific obligations is not risk-free, just as the purchase of completion, penalties for late completion,
on the part of the developer to complete an existing property isnt. The notaire in circumstances under which the deposit
the work, which will then become a binding France is not necessarily required to advise can be withdrawn, guarantees for
clause in the final sale deed. any one buyer about the pros and cons building work, and a copy of the plans
Thus even though title to the specific of a particular purchase. That, we would and drawings.
house or apartment may transfer at a hope, is the role that a specialist firm of As is the case with a standard
very early stage in the development, solicitors would fulfill. The legal documents property purchase, once the contrat de
the buyer can be reassured that the both the initial purchase contract and rservation has been signed there is a
developer will proceed with the works in a the final sale deed will be voluminous, 10-day cooling-off period, during which
suitable manner, and in the event that the and could appear daunting to the first- you can withdraw and receive a full refund
developer becomes unable to continue then time buyer. There is hopefully a great of your deposit.
the work should continue anyway. value in instructing solicitors who are well The final contract is called the Vente en
Given that completion of the transfer acquainted with such processes to review ltat futur dachvement (VEFA). If you have
of title on such developments will often the documents, to ensure the correct previously signed a preliminary contract,
take place at a very early stage, it would be information is included and that nothing you are entitled to be supplied with a full
unreasonable to expect the buyer to pay is omitted. copy of the final VEFA contract at least one
the full purchase price at the time of that month before signature, in order to give
transfer. The contract should therefore Matthew Cameron is a partner and you time to properly understand and agree
establish a regime of stage payments, head of the French legal services team at the contents, which will include a large
which will then be reiterated in the transfer Ashtons Legal. ashtonslegal.co.uk number of technical terms and drawings.

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 77


THE ESSENTIALS

HIDE AND SEEK


If you need a helping hand to find your ideal home in France
then a property finder could be the answer, says Sophia Mose,
as she explains the benefits of the services they offer

I
f youve decided to buy a property approximately 40% of property purchases perhaps youve already made the move to
in France, its useful to have a in France are made directly with the seller. France and like the idea of helping others
thorough understanding of the Finally, many properties are off-market or do the same by becoming a buyers agent
French system of house buying and confidential, which means that they are yourself? Heres what you need to know.
all the different services on offer. not (yet) on the agency website. For house-
While some house-hunters will search for hunters, that can often mean contacting ANSWERS TO SOME OF THE MOST
properties through an estate agent, others every single agency separately, which can FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
may choose to use the services of a buyers be very time-consuming, to say the least. Can anyone be a property finder?
agent or property finder. The terms chasseur immobilier, chercheur
Property finders who know your ideal Prices of properties sold is not de biens, property finder, search agent,
area will help you narrow your search, publicly available home hunter and buyers agent are used
saving time, energy and expense. Not only Only the buyer and seller, the agency, and interchangeably. And in theory anyone
that, it can offer additional peace of mind the notaire know what price was paid. could use them. However, in France, those
if you like the idea of having someone to This makes it impossible to compare who assist others in the sale or purchase
hold your hand through the whole process, prices of similar properties, and outsiders of property on a regular basis and are paid
whether its understanding how the are unable to get an idea of what is a fair for their involvement, must be licensed as
French system works or having someone market value. Asking prices can be 30% a property professional. They must also
to help you converse with the notaire if above market value, or only 2%; theres no have professional responsibility insurance
your French isnt quite up to the task. way to know. In cities such as Paris, Nice in place and comply with continuing
If youre based in another country and and Lyon, properties are often sold within education requirements.
dont speak French, the benefits of using a a week and above asking price. In la France In 2014, the loi ALUR reiterated
property finder on the ground are all the profonde, a property might linger on the the licensing obligation for chasseurs
more obvious. Even if you do speak the market for years and sell for half the initial immobiliers and relocation companies.
language, buying property from abroad asking price. The licence number must be listed on
isnt always easy. In France, there are three the search agencys website and business
things that can complicate matters further. Limited listing details cards. This makes it easy to check if
Owners generally list with several a buyers agent or property finder is a
No central property listing system agencies, yet keep the right to sell without licensed professional.
There are many different property listing an agency. Only the agency that finds a
aggregator websites, however different buyer gets any commission, and none What is the difference between property
agencies use different portals. Also, of them gets anything if the owner sells finders and traditional estate agents?
the home directly. Now you know why A professional buyers agent does not take
agencies only give out limited details and on listings and is independent, working
photos, or often even the wrong village or purely on behalf of the buyer. Their
REGULATIONS town. They do this to prevent buyers from mission is to counsel their client, find them
The Fdration Franaise des finding the property without them. the best house and negotiate the lowest
Chasseurs Immobiliers (FFCI) and price. An estate agent is in the selling
the Fdration Nationale des Chasseurs One solution is to hire your own business they are hired by an owner to
Immobiliers (FNCI) are the two official buyers agent. The profession of chasseur market their property and achieve the
regulatory bodies for buyers agents. A code of immobilier has existed in France for highest possible price.
ethics and list of members can be found on the about 15 years, and indeed in Paris In France, the estate agent does not
FFCI website federation-chasseurs-immobiliers.com or Lyon, it is almost impossible to have a specific duty to represent either
As set out in the loi Hoguet of 1970, individuals find an apartment without one. the buyer or the seller in the negotiations
or companies in France who are involved in the The perception is that the service they are defined by law as being an
sale of and purchase of property must hold a carte is only for house-hunters with intermediary who can bring two parties
professionnelle, which you can ask to see. They must high budgets, but the money together and facilitate the sale.
SOPHIA MOSE

meet the following criteria in order to obtain a carte: saved in the negotiations and the Although agents might honestly think
Specific education requirements, such as a degree in time saved searching make it an that they can represent both parties
law, economics or business, or have relevant experience. efficient option for everyone. Or interests at the same time, it would be
Take out professional liability insurance.
Provide a financial guarantee if receiving
78 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com
funds from clients into their bank account.
unrealistic to always expect this to be
possible with the buyer and seller on
opposite sides of the transaction.
SUCCESSFUL SEARCHES
A search agent can spend four to six No two clients are the same and each
weeks on one search, with screening visits,
extensive photos and detailed reports.
brief has its own challenges. These are
Vendor agents spend their time taking examples of three very different searches
on new listings and showing their own
portfolio to potential buyers. They cannot
A romantic holiday apartment in Nice with terrace.
take on an intensive search for only one
Budget: 300,000
client. chacun son mtier!
Seattle professionals Don and Franklyn had been
struggling to find a suitable apartment in Nice. Our search
How much does it cost?
agent met them for cocktails. They immediately clicked
The search mandate agreement sets out
and she understood exactly what they were looking
the detailed search brief and the search fee,
for. This was a tough brief, but she lined up some good
which is usually between 2% and 4% of the
potentials for their viewing visit. On the last day, she got
purchase price. The higher the purchase
a call from an agent who had a brand-new listing that he
price, the lower the percentage. Often, the
was keeping off-market for the time being an apartment
vendor agent will reduce their agency fee
on the top floor with two terraces. Don and Franklyn were
because the buyer has a search agent, but
the first people through the door to see it and the deal was
this is not automatic.
agreed on the spot. When not using the apartment, the
Some property finders offer a free
couple rent it out successfully.
service. Free property finders can only
work with certain agencies, who give them
a cut of their fee. As a result, theyre not A five-bedroom family home in the centre of Aix-en-
independent and cannot cover 100% of Provence. Budget: 1.5 million
the market for their client. Others charge This French family had lived in Africa for a long time and
the buyer a success fee, which ensures had chosen Aix-en-Provence as the place to settle in
that they remain without conflict of France because of the climate and choice of international
interest and can search with all agencies schools. They had friends in Aix who had tried to help
and also private sales. These property them find something suitable, but soon came to realise
finders will pre-visit properties on your that large family houses with gardens near the historic
behalf and send you detailed reports with centre of what is a small city are rare. The couple decided
photographs. In the negotiations they will that they needed a property expert on the ground, and
endeavour to reduce the sellers agency fee many Skype sessions and reports later, only three houses
(which is included in the asking price). That made it onto the shortlist. One was in the perfect location,
reduction often tends to be close to the with stunning views, but over budget. It needed a lot of
search fee, meaning that the service ends vision as the decor was unusual to say the least, but the
up being free again. clients saw the potential. We negotiated an excellent price,
and I then arranged builders and gardeners to carry out
How does it work? the work needed. The house is now stunning!
The mandate agreement allows the search
agent to contact vendor agents on the
clients behalf. Instead of having to contact A large main house with lots of land for horses and
30 or 40 agencies, the client has a local up-an-running gte business. Budget: 550,000
expert on the ground, who visits potential A professional couple from London with a young daughter
candidates for them and reports on the were looking for a more balanced lifestyle in south-west
positives as well as the negatives, with France. Lacking the time to search themselves, they also
photos and videos. Together they decide needed advice on the best area for a gte complex and
on a shortlist of properties to view, before schools for their little girl. Our search agent in Bergerac
the search agent then organises the viewing steered them to the best areas and pre-screened 65
appointments and accompanies the client properties for them. Only six made it onto the viewing
on the visits. They act as an adviser and list. One private sale was significantly
can negotiate the price on a clients behalf. over budget, but the agent knew from
A professional property finder is by your a local contact that the owners were
MORE
side until you have the keys in hand and very keen to sell. The couple fell for that
your utilities have been set up. property and the agent negotiated the
ONLINE
price down to within their budget, with Learn more about buying
a property in France
Sophia Mose is a licensed two donkeys, two goats and 26,000 of
completefrance.com/french-property/
French buyers agent furniture thrown in. It is now a thriving buying-property
thefrenchpropertyfinders.com gte complex near Bergerac.

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 79


THE ESSENTIALS

PROPERTY NEWS THE TRUMP EFFECT


The election of Donald Trump as
Whether youre planning your move to France, president of the United States is
or are already living there, we bring you the encouraging well-heeled Americans
to buy property along the French
latest from the world of French property Riviera, according to one property
expert in France.
Paris-based estate agent Adrian
Leeds told The Hollywood Reporter
that along with low interest rates and
a strong dollar, Trump in the White
House has contributed to a surge
of interest in the French property
market from the US. My phone
started ringing the morning after
he became president and it hasnt
stopped since, she says.
Leeds pinpointed buyers who had
big budgets and those who wanted
to invest their money in back-up
homes as the main investors.
There are people who have
profited from the stock market, and
they dont know what effect Trump
is going to have going forward, so
theyre looking for somewhere to put

Buying before Brexit


their money, Leeds said.
Leeds is not surprised that US
buyers are choosing the Riviera

T
to invest in, given its glamorous
he discussions surrounding it states that citizens status and rights
charms. The beautiful landscapes,
Brexit negotiation guidelines underpinned by EU law at the time of
the quaint villages, the pristine coast
could be viewed as an the UK withdrawing from the EU, which
its just so tasteful and so elegant,
impetus for those thinking is planned for March 2019, should be
she says. I dont care where youve
of investing in a property in secured. The right to pensions, healthcare
been, nothing holds a candle to the
France, encouraging them to buy now and acquiring permanent residence for
French Riviera.
rather than later if they want to secure a citizens in their adopted country are all
stable future in the country. highlighted as key concerns. The EU wants
The message put forward by the EU as all basic rights enjoyed by EU citizens in
it outlined its negotiating position ahead the UK and British nationals in the EU to
of Brexit talks that started on 19 June was be protected for the foreseeable future as
that, if you are living in France before long as both have arrived in their adopted
the UK leaves the European Union in homes before the UK leaves the EU by the
March 2019, then your right to live there end of March 2019.
permanently will be protected. In the European Council guidelines,
In its directive, the EU says that where the EU outlined its position, it
safeguarding citizens rights has always stated that citizens rights is a priority
been high on its agenda, so long as there because of the number of people
is a reciprocal guarantee for the rights affected by the UKs decision to leave
of EU citizens that are living in the UK. the Union.
We have said consistently that resolving Of course no one can say for
the status of EU citizens definite what will happen until an exit
living in the UK and deal has been agreed. However, the
DELPIXART / THINKSTOCK; ISTOCK

UK nationals living in EUs announcement of its intention


other Member States to safeguard UK citizens rights is
w us fo r the
Follo is our first priority, encouraging news for Brits living in
latest news commented one France, reassuring them that their future
@LivingFrance Brexit spokesperson. in the country will be secured if Brexit
In the EUs mandate talks go to plan.

80 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


Paris property peaks CURRENCY UPDATE
The UKs decision to leave the EU is of buyers is rising unstoppably and ON POLITICAL TENTERHOOKS
thought to be boosting the housing perhaps because of Brexit, he says.
market in Paris, with property prices in According to a survey by notaires As political events continue to affect
the French capital set to break records in the city, Italians are the biggest exchange rates, Charles Murray
this summer. group of foreign homebuyers in Paris,
In the first three months of this year accounting for 17% of all transactions.
considers what the coming months
the price of apartments in Paris rose Brits are second, making up 10%. might have in store for GBP/EUR
by 5.5% to 8,450 per square metre. If you too are looking for a Parisian
However, based on preliminary pad, the apartment below might Initially when Theresa May announced a snap
contracts, local notaires expect this be to your liking. On the market for election, the pound rallied as it seemed the
figure to rise to 8,460m in July. 635,000, the two-bedroom property PM would gain a larger majority. However,
Paris notaire, Thierry Delesalle says has 38m of living space, a terrace, and Mays popularity slipped lower and as the exit
that demand for property in the city access to a lift. polls emerged, GBP/EUR sunk from 1.1552 to
is outstripping supply. The number lodgis.com 1.1376, before tumbling lower to 1.1282.
However, GBP/EUR climbed in mid-June as
the Bank of England (BoE) surprised markets
with a 5-3 vote to keep interest rates on hold.
This apartment is located in Pariss 9th arrondissement
and is for sale for 635,000 (lodgis.com) Markets had only expected one member of
the Monetary Policy Committee (MPC) to vote
for higher rates, but it seems inflation has put
policymakers on edge.
UK inflation currently resides at its highest
level since June 2013 at 2.9% in May, up from
Aprils 2.7%. UK wage growth isnt keeping
pace with inflation and BoE Governor Mark
Carney suggested this year will be a squeeze
on households.
Looking ahead, politics are likely to play a
large part in GBP movement. Both the pound
and euro could feel the impact of central bank
statements. Additionally, markets will keep an
ON WITH eye on the Greek debt crisis, Italys banking
woes, and the prospect of an Italian election.
THE SHOW fcexchange.com
Preparations are underway for the next
French Property Exhibition to be held at
London Olympia from 16-17 September.
A must for anyone thinking of buying
a property in France, this is our most established property show
and has been running for over 25 years. Browse the large selection of
French properties for sale, talk to our experts who are on-hand to share
their professional advice or attend one of the free seminars. Visit the
events new website to find out whats on and to register for free tickets.
frenchpropertyexhibition.com/show/london/

TOP OF THE PROPS


This quaint house in Charente proved particularly popular
with house-hunters visiting the France Property Shop
website in June, and its hardly surprising considering
its bargain price tag of 62,130. Located near the
commune of Salles-de-Villefagnan, it offers spacious living
accommodation, although the interior is in need of some
work. The large lounge opens onto the rear terrace and
garden, and there are two bedrooms on the ground floor
Dont forget to sign up for the weekly newsletter plus a further two on the first floor.
properties-in-charente.com

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 81


THE ESSENTIALS For more properties for
sale across France visit
francepropertyshop.com

SPLASHING OUT
Make the most of Frances warm summers by finding your dream French
home with a swimming pool. Stephanie Sheldrake finds out whats on offer
Monsgur
Gironde

1 There really is no shortage of space with this


elegant eight-bedroom mansion house, set in 2.7
hectares of land. In addition there are five bathrooms
and three reception rooms, making this property a
potential B&B or boutique hotel. Outside, beautifully
maintained gardens extend to a riverbank where there
is a small pontoon from which you could launch a
little boat. The property has its own fishing rights,
and there is a terrace and heated saltwater pool. This
grand property has numerous traditional features
including old stone tiles, wood panelling and period
550,000 mantelpieces. Bordeaux airport is an hour away.
guyenneimmobilier.co.uk

Parcay-les-Pins
Maine-et-Loire

2 Situated in a small quiet hamlet three kilometres


from the village of Parcay-les-Pins, this
detached period farmhouse offers spacious living
accommodation with the option of creating a gte
income from the separate annex, which has a kitchen/
living room, shower room and two bedrooms. The
five-bedroom home boasts exposed beams and
stonework, fireplaces and wood-burning stoves,
while outside there are mature gardens, outbuildings
including a barn, garage/workshop, a wooden garden
chalet, and that all-important swimming pool. Historic
Saumur is about half an hour away. 339,000
agence-bourbon.com

La Comelle
Sane-et-Loire

3 This fully renovated three-bedroom farmhouse


offers light, bright rooms that have been decorated
to a high standard. Set in 2,450m2 of land with a
swimming pool, it is only five kilometres from a lively
village with shops and services. The recent renovation
work includes a new roof, windows, gas heating
system and new kitchen and bathroom. Downstairs
is a large living room, with access to a terrace, dining
room and fitted kitchen, three bedrooms, a bathroom
and toilet. The upper level has a large open area of
40m2 providing extra living space.
252,000 burgundy4u.eu

82 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


EDITOR
S
580,000 PICK
Near Sarlat-
4 Situated within a 10-minute drive of the medieval town of Sarlat, this three-bedroom
traditional Prigordian house sits on a plot of 25 acres of fields and forests, with an in-ground
5x10m pool. This characterful family home with its lauze roof exudes charm, but also boasts many
la-Canda modern features including a new arotherme hot-water system and eco-friendly wood-fuelled heating
Dordogne system (theres no shortage of wood in the extensive grounds!). The property has been restored to a high
standard and boasts a large bespoke green oak kitchen. Private sale lapomparie2@gmail.com

Near Quistinic
Morbihan

5 This fully renovated property offers superb


value for money with a main house, cottage,
outbuildings, two pools and 1.25 acres of land. The
property comprises a main house with an adjoining
cottage, each with its own garden area and above-
ground swimming pool. There is also a shared games
room, large open-sided hay barn and former cider
store. The main house offers a large open-plan living
space at the centre of which is a traditional Breton
fireplace, a dining area with woodburner and a fitted
kitchen. The property is situated on the edge of a
hamlet, five minutes from Quistinic. 315,000
ahouseinbrittany.com

Magalas
Hrault

6 This lovely converted barn was renovated in


2015 and offers four bedrooms and three bath/
shower rooms, a light and spacious open-plan living
room that opens onto a terrace and an impressive
fully equipped kitchen. Outside is landscaped garden
with a swimming pool (9x4m), barbecue and outside
shower. There is also a stone outbuilding that could be
converted into additional living space. The property
is situated in a village with shops, restaurants and
school near Magalas, and is 30 minutes from the
Mediterranean coast with its sandy beaches.
496,800 francepropertyangels.com

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 83


THE ESSENTIALS

ON THE MAP
Use our detailed map to help plan
your route and understand Frances
departmental and regional boundaries

THE DEPARTMENTS
Each of Frances 96 departments is listed below with the departmental capital, or prfecture,
in brackets.
01 Ain (Bourg-en-Bresse) 24 Dordogne (Prigueux) 50 Manche (St-L) 73 Savoie (Chambry)
02 Aisne (Laon) 25 Doubs (Besanon) 51 Marne 74 Haute-Savoie (Annecy)
03 Allier (Moulins) 26 Drme (Valence) (Chlons-en-Champagne) 75 Ville-de-Paris (Paris)
04 Alpes-de-Haute-Provence 27 Eure (vreux) 52 Haute-Marne (Chaumont) 76 Seine-Maritime (Rouen)
(Digne) 28 Eure-et-Loir (Chartres) 53 Mayenne (Laval) 77 Seine-et-Marne (Melun)
05 Hautes-Alpes (Gap) 29 Finistre (Quimper) 54 Meurthe-et-Moselle (Nancy) 78 Yvelines (Versailles)
06 Alpes-Maritimes (Nice) 30 Gard (Nmes) 55 Meuse (Bar-le-Duc) 79 Deux-Svres (Niort)
07 Ardche (Privas) 31 Haute-Garonne (Toulouse) 56 Morbihan (Vannes) 80 Somme (Amiens)
08 Ardennes (Charleville-Mzires) 32 Gers (Auch) 57 Moselle (Metz) 81 Tarn (Albi)
09 Arige (Foix) 33 Gironde (Bordeaux) 58 Nivre (Nevers) 82 Tarn-et-Garonne
10 Aube (Troyes) 34 Hrault (Montpellier) 59 Nord (Lille) (Montauban)
11 Aude (Carcassonne) 35 Ille-et-Vilaine (Rennes) 60 Oise (Beauvais) 83 Var (Toulon)
12 Aveyron (Rodez) 36 Indre (Chteauroux) 61 Orne (Alenon) 84 Vaucluse (Avignon)
13 Bouches-du-Rhne (Marseille) 37 Indre-et-Loire (Tours) 62 Pas-de-Calais (Arras) 85 Vende
14 Calvados (Caen) 38 Isre (Grenoble) 63 Puy-de-Dme (La Roche-sur-Yon)
15 Cantal (Aurillac) 39 Jura (Lons-le-Saunier) (Clermont-Ferrand) 86 Vienne (Poitiers)
16 Charente (Angoulme) 40 Landes (Mont-de-Marsan) 64 Pyrnes-Atlantiques (Pau) 87 Haute-Vienne (Limoges)
17 Charente-Maritime 41 Loir-et-Cher (Blois) 65 Hautes-Pyrnes (Tarbes) 88 Vosges (pinal)
(La Rochelle) 42 Loire (St-tienne) 66 Pyrnes-Orientales 89 Yonne (Auxerre)
18 Cher (Bourges) 43 Haute-Loire (Le Puy) (Perpignan) 90 Territoire-de-Belfort (Belfort)
19 Corrze (Tulle) 44 Loire-Atlantique (Nantes) 67 Bas-Rhin (Strasbourg) 91 Essonne (vry)
2a Corse-du-Sud (Ajaccio) 45 Loiret (Orlans) 68 Haut-Rhin (Colmar) 92 Hauts-de-Seine (Nanterre)
2b Haute-Corse (Bastia) 46 Lot (Cahors) 69 Rhne (Lyon) 93 Seine-St-Denis (Bobigny)
21 Cte-dOr (Dijon) 47 Lot-et-Garonne (Agen) 70 Haute-Sane (Vesoul) 94 Val-de-Marne (Crteil)
22 Ctes-dArmor (St-Brieuc) 48 Lozre (Mende) 71 Sane-et-Loire (Mcon) 95 Val-dOise (Pontoise)
23 Creuse (Guret) 49 Maine-et-Loire (Angers) 72 Sarthe (Le Mans)

TRAVEL INFORMATION
AIRLINES bmi regional Jet2
FERRIES DFDS Seaways Aer Arann Tel: 0330 333 7998 Tel: 0333 300 0404
Brittany Ferries Tel: 0871 574 7235 Tel: 0871 718 5000 bmiregional.com jet2.com
Tel: 0330 159 7000 dfdsseaways.co.uk aerarann.com British Airways Lyddair
brittany-ferries.co.uk P&O Ferries Aer Lingus Tel: 0844 493 0787 Tel: 01797 322 207
Stena Line Tel: 0800 130 0030 Tel: 0333 004 5000 britishairways.com lyddair.com
Tel: 01 907 5555 poferries.com aerlingus.com CityJet Monarch
stenaline.ie Air France Tel: 0203 481 1259 Tel: 0333 777 4756
Condor Ferries RAIL Tel: 0207 660 0337 cityjet.com monarch.co.uk
Tel: 0345 609 1024 Eurotunnel airfrance.co.uk easyJet Ryanair
condorferries.co.uk Tel: 08443 35 35 35 Aurigny Air Services Tel: 0330 365 5000 Tel: 0871 246 0000
Irish Ferries eurotunnel.com Tel: 01481 822 886 easyjet.com ryanair.com
Tel: 0818 300 400 Eurostar aurigny.com Flybe Swiss International
irishferries.com Tel: 0343 218 6186 Blue Islands Tel: 0871 700 2000 Tel: 0845 601 0956
LD Lines eurostar.com Tel: 01234 589 200 flybe.com swiss.com
Tel: 0844 576 8836 Voyages-sncf.com blueislands.com
ldlines.co.uk Tel: 0844 848 5848
uk.voyages-sncf.com

84 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


Brittany Ferries
(Portsmouth & Poole)
Stena Line Lyddair Eurostar
(Rosslare) Eurotunnel (Folkestone)
Condor Ferries P&O Ferries (Dover)
(Portsmouth) DFDS Seaways (Dover)
Irish Ferries Eurostar
(Rosslare & Dublin) Ryanair
Flybe
DFDS Seaways (Dover) Air France
DFDS Seaways British Airways
(Newhaven) Jet2
Brittany Ferries Aer Lingus
(Portsmouth) CityJet
Dunkerque easyJet
Flybe Eurostar
Brittany Ferries
Calais BMI Regional
(Portsmouth) Lille
Brittany Ferries
(Portsmouth & Plymouth) DFDS Seaways 62
Condor Ferries (Portsmouth)
HAUTS-DE-
(Poole & Weymouth) Le Touquet
FRANCE 59
Eurostar
Ryanair
Aurigny Ryanair 80
Flybe Amiens
Dieppe 76 02
08
Cherbourg Le Havre
Irish Ferries Rouen 60
(Rosslare)
50 Caen Deauville Metz
Brittany Ferries
(Plymouth & Cork) 14 27 Marne- 51 57
la-Valle Chlons-en- 55 Ryanair
NormandIE Paris Champagne
Strasbourg
Brest Roscoff
61 Ile-de- GRAND-EST 54 67
22 Dinard St-Malo
France British Airways
29 BrETAGNE 28 easyJet
Quimper
Rennes 53 10 88 Swiss International
Ryanair
Flybe 56 35 72 Orlans
52
Lorient Pays-de- 68
41 45 89 70
British 44 la-Loire Tours
21 90 Basel-
Mulhouse
Airways ANGERS Dijon
Nantes Centre-VAL Besanon British Airways
49 37 DE LOIRE easyJet
18 58 BOURGOGNE- 25 Flybe
Jet2
Aer Lingus Franche-Comt Swiss International
Flybe easyJet Poitiers 36 71 39
Blue Islands from
Jersey & Guernsey
Ryanair 85 79 Eurostar
Flybe
CityJet 86 03 Geneva
La Rochelle
British Airways 23 87 01 74 Bourg-St-Maurice
Limoges 69 Aime- Eurostar
17 16 Clermont-
Lyon
la-Plage (Dec-Apr)
easyJet
NOUVELLE 63 Ferrand 42 Motiers
Flybe Chambry British Airways
CityJet Ryanair Aquitaine Auvergne-Rhne-Alpes 73 Flybe
Ryanair British Airways
19 Jet2
Ryanair
Flybe
CityJet 24 Grenoble easyJet Air France
Ryanair
Bordeaux
Brive 15 43 38 Jet2 Ryanair
Monarch
Bergerac Ryanair
Aer Lingus
33 26 05 Norwegian
British Airways
easyJet 46 07 Flybe
Flybe Ryanair Rodez 48 Provence- British Airways
Ryanair
Monarch
Jet2
Flybe
47 OCCITANIE Alpes-Cte
British 30 84 dAzur Monarch
Airways
40 82 Nmes Avignon 04 06 British Airways
81 12 Nice
easyJet
Jet2
32 Toulouse Montpellier 13 Aix-en-Provence Flybe
Pau 31 34 Marseille 83
Biarritz Bziers
64 65
Toulon CityJet

09 11 Flybe Bastia
Lourdes
Carcassonne Calvi
Air France
Ryanair
66 Air France Corse easyJet
easyJet
easyJet
Flybe
Perpignan
Ryanair
British Airways
easyJet
2b Flybe

British Airways Aer Lingus Ryanair Ajaccio


Ryanair British Airways Eurostar
easyJet Ryanair Ryanair Eurostar
2a
Jet2 (May-June) easyJet Figari
Flybe
Ryanair
Flybe Jet2 British Airways
Ryanair British Airways
Aer Lingus easyJet Flybe
CityJet
Seasonal flights Eurostar
Flybe Eurostar
Check websites for details Monarch
Ryanair

FIVE MINUTE french answers Le Mot Commun The perfect match UNSCRAMBLE THE LETTERS TO
1. eau Une cabine de plage = beach hut FIND THE FOUR french jobs
LES MOTS CACHS 2. fleur Un transat = deckchair JARDINIER
L A N D L O R D L
I O 3. colle Un seau = bucket SERVEUR
A U
A B E T MAON
S
S
R
S
I Test Your French FACTEUR
U E R I A T A C O L V Us = worn out
R P E
A E E T Fuite deau = leak WHERE AM I?
N N D T
C T I Coupure de courant = power cut CAP FERRAT
E N
G
Chaudire = boiler LE PUY-EN-VELAY
Y R O T N E V N I

completefrance.com August 2017 Living France 85


PROPERTIES FOR SALE

Property directory
Whether youre looking for a renovation project, the perfect holiday bolt-hole or that chteau youve
always dreamed of, Living Frances property directory should be the first place to look. To help you hit the
ground running, weve put together a back-to-basics guide to buying a French property. Bonne chance!

BUYING PROPERTY DOS & DONTS


z Vendor and buyer agree on the price
and terms of contract, including any DOS
conditional clauses (clauses suspensives) Do ask to see an estate agents
and any furniture included in the sale. carte professionnelle, which they must
hold in order to work as an estate
z Agents fees (les frais dagence) are agent in France.
usually included in the price and as such, Do check the records of the
paid by the buyer. Check this is the case. property and land before making an
The notaires fixed fees plus tax (les frais offer; be clear about boundaries,
de notaire) are also usually paid by the rights of way and access.
buyer and are on top of the purchase Do take legal advice on tax
price. When buying privately, there will matters and inheritance law.
be no agents fees but notaires fees will Do view the property on the day
still apply. of completion before signing the acte
de vente, which specifies that the
z The preliminary sales contract z The notaire handles the conveyancing, purchase is sold as seen.
(compromis de vente) is drawn up by which typically takes two to three months. Do shop around in advance for the
the agent or notaire and signed by both When all the paperwork is ready, the best currency exchange rate deals.
parties. If the buyer is buying privately notaire confirms the date and time of the Do remember to open a French
from a vendor, its the notaire who draws signing of the acte de vente. bank account and make your
up the contract. mortgage application in good time.
z Reports on lead, asbestos and flood Do visit the Notaires de France
z The buyer pays the deposit (usually zones (and in some areas, termites) are website. It has lots of helpful
5-10% of the purchase price) to the notaire mandatory; the vendor pays for these. An information in English.
and a 10-day cooling off period ensues, energy-efficiency report (known as a DPE, notaires.fr
during which the buyer can withdraw (but or diagnostic de performance nergtique)
the vendor cannot) and after which the is now also mandatory, while a natural DONTS
contract is legally binding. If the buyer disaster risk report (tat des risques naturels Dont be tempted to sign a sales
pulls out after this, he forfeits his deposit. et technologiques) has to be provided in contract unless you are sure; once the
addition. It specifies whether the property cooling-off period is over, it is legally
z If you are going to buy with a mortgage, is within an area where there is a risk of binding and if you pull out you will
now is the time to put in your application. flooding or other natural or technological lose your deposit.
However, it is wise to apply for a mortgage disaster or accident. Dont forget that the notaire will
in principle before you start your property make a charge of 6.5-10% in addition
hunt, to avoid disappointment later. z The buyer transfers the balance of to the purchase price of the property
payment to the notaire prior to completion. (this amount is different for new-
z If you are taking out a mortgage, this On the day of completion, all parties builds). The cheaper the property, the
will be a condition of the preliminary meet the notaire to sign the contract (the higher the percentage charged; this
sales contract, giving you the possibility buyer can appoint a proxy). Keys and an amount consists of the notaires fixed
of pulling out should your application attestation de vente are handed over and fees and tax.
be turned down. Once the offer is official, ownership is transferred. The final acte Dont forget to allow for the
it will be confirmed to the notaire and the de vente papers are sent out around six expense of an interpreter being
contract becomes unconditional. months later. present if your French language skills
are poor; ask your agent or notaire
about this as they may be able to help.
Dont forget that surveys are not
commonplace in France but you can
still arrange one.

Find thousands of properties for sale


on our website France Property Shop

86 Living France August 2017 To advertise call 01242 216099 or email property@livingfrance.com
completefrance.com
87
Beautiful homes in Nouvelle Aquitaine!
Call us on +33 (0)8 05 69 23 23
Freephone from UK: 0800 270 0101
IMMOBILIER or visit www.beauxvillages.com

Character cottage, Haute-Vienne Pretty longre, Charente Dream farmhouse, Vienne Incredible views, Charente
Heated swimming pool and fantastic countryside Enclosed garden outbuildings and a charming Lovely vaulted ceiling lounge with bright Large charentaise house, gite and pool.
views, located within a small quiet hamlet in the place to live. 3 bedrooms on the rst oor. adjoining kitchen, bathroom, sitting room and Main house oers spacious lounge with
countryside.2 bedrooms, the bathroom and a The house is fully renovated. Large barn, 2 bedrooms. The property has a utility room wood-burner, dining room kitchen tted. 3
country kitchen, dining room with replace and beautiful mature garden and nice covered with space for possible 3rd bedroom above. bedrooms, bathroom and attic converted into
French doors leading to a raised outdoor area. terrace. This property is ready to move in! On the edge of a gorgeous village. child's bedroom.Workshop, enclosed garden.

Ref: 14168 128 400 Ref: 14403 148 000 Ref: 14745 238 500 Ref: 16847 199 000

Sweet manor house, Vienne By the river, Charente Own your gite, Deux-Svres Fabulous house, Charente
Land and equestrian facilities. The rst oor This stunning architect designed, contemporary This stunning property is reached via its own Arranged over 3 oors and boasting 5 bedrooms,
has family bathroom, 4 bed, the master with house built on the site of a former water mill is private drive, and all located in a pretty hamlet 2 en-suites and a great family bathroom. The
dressing area and private bathroom. Outside in a beautiful and private location alongside the close to the major towns of Sauz-Vaussais well tted kitchen gives stunning views across
is a private drive, mature trees, established river. The interior is largely open plan giving and Chef-Boutonne. Easy access to Poitiers the gardens with the sitting room having French
gardens totaling 2.1 hectares. the whole house a light and spacious feel. and Limoges with airports. doors to the rear overlooking the pool.

Ref: 17166 318 000 Ref: 17477 318 000 Ref: 17569 529 947 Ref:17575 339 200

Agence Immobilire Herman De Graaf


Contact: Cate Carnduff
Le Bourg-Saint-Jean de Cle 24800 Thiviers France.
Tel: 00 33 (0)553 62 38 03 Fax: 00 33 (0)553 55 08 03
e-mail: agence@immobilier-dordogne.com

Ref. 4376 Ref. 4375


Region Brantome. Unique property with a Character town house property built during
restored farmhouse & outbuildings, set in 1930s, & set on 1340m2 of land with good
a quiet & private position on 5.2ha of land views. Entrance, living room with fireplace &
with beautiful views. Living room with fitted open plan kitchen, 3 bathrooms,
fireplace, fitted kitchen & covered terrace, 6 bedrooms. Basement with boiler room
bathroom, veranda & 3 bedrooms & (oil CH ) & cellar. Garage, workshop & storage.
2 bathrooms; oil CH. Adj. barn & barn. Price: 278,000 agency fees included.
Price: 275,000 agency fees included.

Ref. 4377 Ref. 4334


CHARENTE MARITIME
Region Thiviers. Farmhouse with La Coquille. Well maintained house from
outbuildings, quietly situated at the edge of 1980s, set on 2500m2 of land. Entrance,
Luxurious 4-bedroom property in a beautiful village.
a hamlet on approximately 3.080m2 of land living room with fire insert, fitted kitchen, Currently used as a holiday home and rentals business but equally suitable as a
with good views. Fitted kitchen & living shower room & 3 bedrooms. Basement
room with fireplace, WC, bathroom & 3 (145m2) with garage, storage, summer permanent family home. Superb 10m x 5m private enclosed heated pool, separate
bedrooms. Cellar with boiler room (oil-CH) kitchen, cellar & boiler room (oil CH). cottage, outbuildings and extensive gardens.
& attic. Sm house to modernise with 2 Price: 139,000 agency fees included.
rooms (27m2). Barn 165m2; well. 230,000
Price: 165.000, agency fees included.
Contact details: 07721 652340
www.immobilier-dordogne.com Martyn Jaggard martynjaggard@btinternet.com

88
FOR SALE, 865,000
Contact details:
BUSINESS/INVESTMENT OPPORTUNITY contact@le-tresor.com

Opposite the church centre of Naucelle, Aveyron


Two lock up shops. Living accommodation above divided into one
1bedroom at, two 2 bedroom ats, one 3 bedroom at. Potential
income 1,500 PCM. Will make up to 14 bedrooms Bed and
Breakfast accommodation. One shop let as Pizzeria 250 PCM
Other shop usable but vacant. All major structural work done but
still some work to do to make it habitable.
More information 00 33 (0) 565299624
email: richard.derrick@wanadoo.fr LE TRSOR
Boutique bed & breakfast for sale in Aude
Offers in the region of 124,000 According to both Trip Advisor and Mr and Mrs Smith reviews, Le Tresor
is arguably the most desirable and individual of the Boutique B&Bs in
the Languedoc region of France. Sitting in the very attractive village
square of Sonnac Sur Lhers in the foothills of the Pyrenees, it boasts
Allez-Franais www.allez-francais.com 10 bedrooms, 9 bathrooms, including a 2-bedroom Gite, a large dining
leading property 00 33 553 56 09 35 / 00 33 555 28 46 40 room, a snug bar, a recently renovated owners house with a gorgeous
specialists for South contact@allez-francais.com private garden lled with fruit trees and vines.
West France since 2002 A small business, but
big on initiative and ideas

Cellefrouin (16)
Beautifully renovated 3 bed stone house with Montagnac La Crempse (24)
attached second stone property in need of Gorgeous chocolate-box Maison de Maitre with
renovation. 2 large barns and several other 5 bedrooms, swimming pool and studio annexe
buildings, 2 ha of land. in a quiet hamlet near Bergerac
Price 188,680 Reduced Price 269,850 HAI

PAYS DE LOIRE (53)


Unique opportunity to renovate a LANGUEDOC HERAULT
Normandy Farm House with stunning 2 Bedroom detached house (on one
views in beautiful countryside. level) 89sqm. 6200sqm of land in a
Has all essential amenities for living in regional park. Spectacular views in all

Tarn-et-Garonne
but needs tlc and imagination to directions. 5 minutes walk to village.
renovate into splendid residence. Ideal holiday retreat. Horse riding,
Large barn, workshop, cowshed with shing and canoeing. Part renovated,
piggery three-quarters acre.
[SUPERB CHARACTER FARMHOUSE] minor interior work required.
Price 75,000
contact 0033(0)233370050 90,000 o.n.o. Contact Mrs Dyett:
e-mail: jeangrange@hotmail.com 0208 851 2251 or 07594 696843

Superb character farmhouse with established gite business


(11 bedrooms in total). The perfect ready-made business opportunity in
beautiful rural Gascony. This traditional farmhouse is divided into two
independent dwellings and is currently a successful gite rental business.
Set in grounds of just over 1 hectare (2.5 acres), with mature trees
and shrubs, this property consists of two adjoined houses that can be
independently run - with separate heating systems, separate utilities,
and each with a 10 x 5m swimming pool. 595,000 Recently reduced.

Full property details can be seen at www.discovergascony.com


or www.francepropertyshop.com/listing/423469 or you
can contact the owners directly on +33 (0)563 941 250

89
DELIGHTFUL COTTAGE
Premery, Nievre, Burgundy
Dated 1828. Completely renovated and still under guarantee. Two bedrooms
easily made into three. Energy costs approximately 400 pa. Set on 1 Ha land Farm cottage, superb 5 Bedroom rural property
(partly forested) with a charming garden located in a small peaceful hamlet. outbuildings and 1.3 with lake and 1.5 hectares -
Less than 20 minutes from A77. hectares of grazing land Southern Manche.
99,000 Contact Nicky Hall: +44 7549 675271 Southern Manche. 254 800 FAI
63 000 FAI

THE OLD VINES Unique park set in 33 acres of unspoilt


HOLIDAY HOME PARK countryside, central to all tourist attractions,
DORDOGNE/LOT large spacious new plots with amazing views.

Immaculate 4 bedroom rural Edge of village cottage to


property with stunning views. update with 1/4 acre.
Mayenne region 27 000 FAI
156 750 FAI

www.asiimmobilier.fr
Luxury pre-used homes for sale in good condition.
Mobile home to let. tl 00 33 2 33 65 79 26 | info@asiimmobilier.fr
Contact Christine Jones on tel: 0033 565412940 | email: theoldvines@sfr.fr
2 place du march passais la conception 61350
www.theoldvines.co.uk

www.a7v-immobilier.com
SPECIALISTS IN THE POITOU CHARENTES
Looking for your Over 500 properties available on our website
Each property is inspected by us. If we dont have what you are
dream home or looking for then well do a personalised search for you.
Sales possible in sterling - we wont be beaten on fees
selling in the Pas de
Calais or Picardy...
Allow the team at the 7
Valleys Agency to help you.

We look forward to
South Deux Sevres. Charente.
meeting you soon! Excellent condition, excellent value, set in a quiet Renovated to a high standard, 3 bed house
side road in a pleasant village, 3 bedroomed on the village edge with outbuildings and
house with swimming pool and garden. over 15 acres of land.
Ref AI3840 .........................107 200 Ref AI3853............................21 200

South Vienne. Charente.


Large family home with 2 guest cottages, Spacious 5 bedroomed house with base-
barn, swimming pool and garden. ment and large garden. Walking distance to
Ref AI3848............................278 250 shops/bar/caf/schools etc.
Ref AI3715 .............................15 000

Office: 0033(0)321 862 279 All prices shown are inclusive of agency fees.
8 Grand Rue, 16240 Villefagnan.
English spoken: call Sam 0033(0)643 413 038 Tel: 0033 5 45 85 37 37 or 0033 6 74 93 53 57
sam.a7v@orange.fr www.actous.com www.property-sales-france.com
Carte Professionelle N TPM 104, Siret 478 930 878 00010

91
Go to www.francepropertyshop.com for thousands more properties for sale

Dordogne, Nouvelle Aquitaine Deux-Svres, Nouvelle Aquitaine Dordogne, Nouvelle Aquitaine


A delightful renovated Winery and gite with six This immaculate stone house has been carefully Gorgeous Maison de Maitre with 5 bedrooms,
bedrooms, three barns and stunning vineyard renovated retaining the original features through- pool, fantastic views and barns to convert with
views (Villefranche de Lonchat, 24) Situated near out whilst offering modern kitchen, bathroom 2.4 acres of land. This former farm has been
the village of Villefranche de Lonchat, this former and double glazing. The gardens are beautiful restored to very high standard and many of
Vintners home has restored to a high standard. and give privacy with hedging all round. the period features have been retained.

199,922 Ref: 437755 169,600 Ref: 437624 367,500 Ref: 437264

Dordogne, Nouvelle Aquitaine Dordogne, Nouvelle Aquitaine Charente, Nouvelle Aquitaine


Charming riverside home with 4 bedrooms, Located on the edge of a charming village This pretty stone cottage has been completely
shing & mooring rights and a hobby vineyard. with a good range of local amenities, this renovated to a very high standard. It currently
This renovated property produces 600 bottle of house has been divided to create three offers two ensuite bedrooms but, with two
wine per year, has various fruit trees and access self-contained apartments that can be let out attached stone barns, it could easily be
to all the sh the Dordogne river has to offer. during the summer to provide useful income. enlarged to provide additional accommodation.

238,500 Ref: 437000 220,000 Ref: 436629 174,900 Ref: 435077

Hautes-Pyrnes, Occitanie Haute-Garonne, Occitanie Auvergne and Rhne-Alpes


Contemporary bungalow on a large plot of Situated on 11 acres of mostly grazing land the Completely renovated farmhouse set in a
approx 1 ha with stunning views, garden and property offers exible and entirely renovated enclosed park of 3,600 sqm in the Drme,
garage situated near Castelnau Magnoac in accommodation within easy access of a village just 3 mins from the center of a charming
the Pyrenees. This bungalow would make a with shops, bars, businesses, services and village and 10 mins from Montlimar. Offering
superb retirement or smaller family property. schools, and less than one hour to Toulouse. approximately 300 sqm of habitable space.

250,000 Ref: 437949 475,000 Ref: 437693 714,000 Ref: 437436

Use the 6 digit reference number when searching the site for these properties
NEW AND IMPROVED SITE
www.francepropertyshop.com

and make sure to SIGN UP for our weekly newsletter

Var, Provence-Cte dAzur Var, Provence-Cte dAzur Provence-Cte dAzur


Hidden in the hills above Cannes, in a luxury Situated in a beautiful enclosed small and Provenal style villa in a residential area in
domaine with tennis courts, you will nd this modern residence with swimming pool is this Mougins with 1746 sqm plot of land, swimming
modern villa with separate apartment of about spacious, luxurious and bright 4 bedroom pool and a beautiful view of the village. It offers
250m2 living space. The villa offers beautiful apartment of 110m2 with large terrace of about a spacious living room, separate kitchen, guest
views and has its own pool. 81m2, located on the ground oor/rst oor. toilet, two bedrooms and bathroom.

895,000 Ref: 435969 895,000 Ref: 435968 825,000 Ref: 435964

Provence-Cte dAzur Provence-Cte dAzur Provence-Cte dAzur


Dans le joli village de St Paul en fort, In the lovely Villefranche sur mer you will nd Well built 4 bedroomed villa of 149m2 sitting in
cette superbe villa moderne de 220 m2 this refurbished 2 bedroom apartment with a front of a little pond with a beautiful landscaped
sur un terrain de 1600 m2 avec piscine au great terrace and sea view. Offering 83 sqm garden of 3.680m2 in a calm area near the
sel ainsi quun espace balno, sera retenir living space, great beents in a luxury residence village of Callian. Flat and enclosed garden.
votre attention! with swimming pool and caretaker. Garage, cellar, shed, well and plenty of parking.

749,000 Ref: 435963 850,000 Ref: 435943 546,000 Ref: 435937

Nouvelle Aquitaine Nouvelle Aquitaine Nouvelle Aquitaine


Well designed, functional and bright one storey Charming property currently offering large living In times gone by this house was the boulangerie
house. It offers a living room of 55m2, kitchen rooms, 3 large bedrooms for a living area of for the village, it has retained a great deal of its
of 24m2. The bedroom wing has 3 bedrooms, 175m2 approx. Open barn at the back of 55m2 charm including the millers staircase leading
including one with en-suite, 1 ofce or a and various outbuildings. Large garden and upstairs to what would have been his our store!
complementary room. Double garage. landscaped garden, orchard ... all on 4132m2. Superbly renovated to high standards.

399,000 Ref: 437484 142,000 Ref: 435431 288,000 Ref: 433800

Use the 6 digit reference number when searching the site for these properties
SEVEN VALLEYS,
PAS-DE-CALAIS
62 CHATEAU 79
Beautifully restored fermette with river BREAKS B&B
frontage and lovely views. 3 bedrooms, Welcome to Chateau DOg A New
original features, fully equipped kitchen,
Zealand owned Bed & Breakfast in the
washing-machine & dishwasher. Dining area,
fireplace and log-burning stove. South facing Deux Sevres, built around 1880 retains
garden, tiled terrace with brick-built many architectural features and provides
barbecue. Enclosed gravel courtyard to front. an ideal base for exploring surrounding
30mins from sandy beaches, golf courses, areas. All you need for comfort is here, a
amusement parks, tennis courts, canoeing, guest lounge and lovely circular breakfast
horse riding, sports & fitness centre with
room. We have 4 guest suites, two with
swimming-pool nearby. 1 hour from
Boulogne & Calais. Prices from 450 per week. two bedrooms and own bathrooms,
Long weekends & mid weeks possible. two with family rooms and ensuites.
450+ p/w
Contact Maggie Contact: June and Patsy
Tel: 0033 3 21 81 59 79
Email: www.northfrancegites.com SHORT & LONG TERM LET Tel: 0033 549778949
Email: info@chateau-breaks.com

OCCITANIE LANGUEDOC 66
AUDE ROUSSILLON
Centrally located in the heart of the Minervois our Catalan country house surrounded by vine-
beautifully restored 18c coaching inn with flower yards and apricot orchards with swimming
filled courtyard garden and a swimming pool
offers flexible accommodation for all your needs pool in 6000m2 grounds. B&B accommodation
and provides the perfect base for exploring this offered by retired chef & wife. Two ensuite
beautiful and up and coming corner of France. double bedrooms and one twin. Self-catering
Please contact us for further details. Highly
Special offers available for remaining dates accommodation also available in a 2-bedroom
recommended
in 2017 and early booking for summer 2018. s apartment and the garden house for 2.
on James Martin
B&B 85 for 2; 120-135 for 4 French
15 mins Perpignan & airport. 25 mins Medi-
Extra bed 20 Adventure terranean beaches. 1 hour Carcassonne and
Dinner from 25 per person Beziers. 1.5 hrs Montpellier & Girona airport
Weekly self-catered lets from 1,750 p/w (Spain). Ideally placed for house hunting.
Contact: Valerie and Mike Slowther
Tel: 0033 (0) 4 68 91 69 29 Tel/Fax: 0033 468 64 97 54
Email: mike@levieuxrelais.net Email: kevinmaggie@orange.fr
www.levieuxrelais.net
B&B and Holiday Rentals www.perpignanaccommodation.com B&B, SHORT & LONG TERM LETS

94
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Tel; 01952 460607 livingfrance.com
Mobile; 07802 355795
www.horsetransport.uk.net

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96
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Escape from the crowds and discover Our guide to the French political system
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Applying for French citizenship How a two-year work placement in
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2017 Living France 97

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WHATS NEW
Column

Ive pretty much stuck to the 2009 version


of myself. Ive remained static while
fashion, language and tech have moved on
Living in rural France for the past seven years means
that Gillian Harvey isnt always up to speed with the
latest trends. And that isnt always a bad thing

A
nyone whos been to rural
France will know that its
a bit like stepping back
into the past (only with the
internet, satellite TV and
other mod cons). Its one of the reasons
many of us move here to embrace a
simpler, less consumer-driven life. What
I didnt realise until recently though was
that I, too, am stuck in a time warp of my
own making.
The realisation came to me late last year
when I was flicking through the TV listings
and found a show claiming to document
The Rise of the Hipster. Other than the
jeans, Id never heard of this term, yet
clearly in the UK it had become a thing.
The same thing happened recently when
someone on an internet forum mentioned
the trend for hygge. Is it a bit 2016? she with people of all ages and in two different At the same time, I feel pretty relaxed
mused. Despite having heard the word, I languages. I am calmer for having the lush about the fact that Im out of date. Here,
had no idea it was a thing. green of trees and fields stretching forth I dont feel pressure to have the latest
Im not completely out of the loop. from my office window. (I say office. gadget, and definitely dont worry too
I have a computer and Im not afraid to Before baby number five came along, I much about the fact that unless a band
use it. I buy the occasional magazine had a real office. Im now writing from a rose to fame post 2010, or gets regular
(both English and French titles). I listen desk tucked in a corridor. Still, the view is airplay in France, I probably wont have
to the radio. I watch TV. But, working the same.) heard of them. I know that, outfit-wise,
from home and living in a rural But it also means that in terms of anything goes at the school gate, and am
community, Im not constantly evolution, Ive pretty much stuck to the pleased that I am bringing my children
bombarded with all things modern. 2009 version of myself. My smartphone up in a world where Im not constantly
The expats with whom I fraternise are lies neglected in the bottom of my crumb- screen-locked. All I have to do is wait until
a mixed bunch all with their own unique filled handbag most of the time; my music theres a noughties revival and Ill be right
style, ranging from what Id like to call collection has remained stocked with old back on-trend.
rustic to more classically dressed. I have favourites; Ive pretty much been wearing
several French friends who are always versions of the same outfit for the past
quirkily coiffed, and I often admire their eight years. Ive neither become more
Gillian Harvey is a
ILLUSTRATION ANDY ROBERT DAVIES

ease of style, or the cut of a particular skirt French in my style, nor updated my take freelance writer
or coat. But all of these people have very on all things British. who has lived in
different looks, and I have no idea whether Instead, Ive remained static while Limousin for seven
any of them are current. fashion, language and tech have moved years, together
In a way, living in a quiet area in on. I am baffled by music streaming with husband Ray
France has enabled me to become a more services; perplexed by young men with and their five
authentic version of myself. I socialise large beards on UK talk shows. young children

98 Living France August 2017 completefrance.com


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