Puppy Love Heart Slouchy

Special Stitch:
3-dc cluster: Yarn over, insert hook. Yarn over, pull through st (3 loops on hook). Yarn over, pull through first 2 loops
(2 loops remaining on hook). Yarn over, insert in same st. Yarn over, pull through. Yarn over, pull through first 2 loops
(3 loops remaining on hook). Yarn over, insert into same st. Yarn over, pull through. Yarn over and pull through first 2
loops. Yarn over, pull through all 4 remaining loops. If its easier to understand, its a basically a dc3tog worked all in
the same st.

Ribbed Band:
Ch 7.
1. Hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Hdc in each st. Turn. (6 sts)
2.- 46. Ch 2. Hdc in same st. Hdc 4 in BLO. Hdc in last st, going through both loops. Turn. (6 sts).
Dont tie off after last row.

The band should be 15 UNSTRETCHED. This measurement is only accurate if you havent stretch it around your
head. The band should be very stretchy and should stretch 4 or so.

Body:
1. Fold the band in half, and using the loop from the last hdc, pull it through and sl st down the side, forming a band.
Dont tie off.
Turn the band, so the seam is on the inside. Beginning where you left off sewing the band: Ch 1. Sc in same sp.
From here, you will sc around the band. Work approx. 3 sts for every 2 hdc rows, until you have 72 total
stitches. Join with a sl st with the first st, using 2nd color.
2. Ch 1. Dc 4 in same st. Ch 1. Sk 5 sts. *Dc 4 in next st. Ch 1. Sk 5 sts* work 11 times. Join with a sl st with the first
st using Dove Heather. (60 sts)
3. Ch 2. Sc in middle of shell (not in a st, in the space between the stitches). Ch 2. Work a 3-dc cluster in the 3rd st
of the 5 skipped sts from the previous round. *Ch 2. Sc in middle sp of shell. Ch 2. Work a 3-dc cluster in 3rd sk st
from previous round* repeat all around the hat. Join with a sl st with first chain. (72 sts)
4. Ch 2. Dc in same st. Dc in each st around. Join with sl st. (72 sts)
Join 3rd color.

5. 13. Repeat rows 2 4 respectively, changing colors when you make the hearts row.
14. Ch 2. Dc in same st. *Dc2tog, dc in next st* work 23 times. Work a dc2tog with last 2 sts. (48 sts)
15. Ch 2. Dc in each st around. (48 sts)
16. Ch 2. Dc2tog all around. (24 sts) Tie off.

To close the hat, turn it inside out. Put a length of yarn on your needle and sew in and out each stitch across the top.
Pull it tight, cinching the top closed. Tie a very sturdy knot and clip end.

Finish with a pom pom on top

 CHUNKY RIBBED SLOUCH HAT FREE
CHUNKY CROCHET HAT PATTERN.

CHUNKY CROCHET HAT PATTERN

Row 1: Begin by chaining 23 and then working a half double crochet (hdc) stitch in the third
chain from your hook and each remaining chain down the line. (The length of this first row is
about an inch shorter than the finished hat will be brim to crown, so if you want your hat to be
longer or shorter, you can adjust the crochet hat pattern length by beginning again with more
or fewer chains.) Chain 2, Turn.

Row 2: Working in the back loops only, work 1 hdc in each stitch across, Ch 2, turn.

Repeat Row 2 until your rectangle is long enough to wrap around your head. It took me 23
rows. You dont need to finish off the yarn yet.
Fold the rectangle in half so the two short ends of the rectangle line up. Work a slip stitch
through each stitch of both sides to crochet the rectangle together into a tube.

When you have your tube, finish off the yarn and weave in the ends.

With the tube wrong side out (with the seam on the outside), thread a long piece of yarn onto
your yarn needle and pull the needle through each row all around one end of the tube. Grab
both ends of the yarn and pull tight to gather the top of the hat. Tie the ends together with a
double knot and weave in the ends.
Finally, just flip the hat right side out, and ta-da! its a hat! Well, kind of. It just needs a bit
of finishing and then it will be awesome.

Adding a brim takes it to the next level. A few rounds of single crochet will do just fine.

Rnd 1: Join the yarn to the brim edge of the hat. Work single crochet stitches evenly around
the edge. It took me 38 stitches to go all the way around. Slip stitch to the first single crochet
to join. Chain 1.

Rnd 2: Working in back loops only (see image below), single crochet in each stitch around.
Slip stitch to join. Chain 1.

Rnd 3: Repeat Round 2 leaving off the last chain 1. Finish off, weave in ends.

Last but not least, you can top the hat with a pom pom. I used the largest pom pom loom to

make my fluffy pom pom, and then tied it onto the crown of th e
hat.
THE SNOWDRIFT SLOUCH HAT

Abbreviations Used:
2DCCL (2 Double Crochet Cluster Stitch - see Special Stitch, below)
SC+2DCCL (this just means to put 1 SC and 1 2DCCL in the same stitch)
Special Stitch
2DCCL - 2 Double Crochet Cluster Stitch. To complete:
(YO, insert hook, draw up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops) twice; YO, pull through remaining 3 loops.
Notes:
(1) This hat is worked in rows and cinched at the end.
(2) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(3) Starting chains do not count as stitches.
(4) The band of the hat is worked in seamless rounds. Do not join or turn at the end of rounds. Use a stitch marker if needed.
To begin:
Using I Hook, and leaving a 12" tail, CH23. Don't weave in the tail until instructed (we'll use it later to cinch the hat).
Row 1: In 3rd CH from hook, SC+2DCCL. (SK next ST, SC+2DCCL in next ST) across. (22)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+2DCCL in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+2DCCL in next ST) across. (22)
Rows 3-48: Repeat Row 2.
Next we're going to seam the hat. Fasten off, leaving a 12" tail. Lay the piece out flat, then fold the short sides in toward each
other. Use the tail and a yarn needle to whip stitch the two short ends together, as shown.
Fasten off the tail you just used, and weave in its end.

Next, we're going to cinch the top of the hat. Turn it inside out (whichever side has the most obvious seam should be exposed).
Thread your starting tail through your yarn needle and weave it in and out around the very top of the hat. (The smaller your
weave, the nicer finish the top of the hat will have.)

After cinching, it should look like this:

Pull the tail tight to draw the cinch closed, tie a couple of knots, and fasten off and weave in the end.

Band of the Hat

Now, we're going to add a nice thick band to our slouch hat. Turn your hat right-side out and reattach your yarn at the base of
the hat, at the seam. We're doing this with the seamless method, which means we aren't joining at the end of rounds. If you need
to, you can use a stitch marker or bobby pin to mark the last SC of each round so you don't get lost.

Round 1: CH1. SC evenly around, 3SC per ridge*. (Approx. 72, give or take a couple)
*We're going to SC evenly around the hat, so let's take a look at what we have to work with. The ridges on the hat will be how
we keep track of our stitches. We want to put 3SC in each ridge. I chose to put the first SC in the "valley", and the next 2 SC
evenly spaced on the "hilltop". Take a look at this photo for guidance on where your SCs should go:

Rounds 2-8: SC evenly around.

To finish, SL ST into the next 3 SCs to smooth out the round. Fasten off and weave in ends.
EASY DIY CROCHET HATS - 2 WAYS.

1. Start by making the initial chain. This will be the height of your hat. I used a size 7 (4.5
mm) crochet hook and chained 40 as I wanted my hat to be slouchy.
2. Single crochet into the 2nd chain from the hook and then into each chain.
3. Chain 1, turn and then single crochet into each stitch.
4. Repeat crocheting rows until you're happy with the length. I crocheted 75 rows which
measured around 48 cm. The amount of rows you crochet will be the circumference of your
hat, I found the best way to measure this was to tie some wool around my head and then
use this as a guide.
Remember your crochet will have some give in it so make sure to take this into
consideration.
5. Fasten off the end of your wool. You should now have a rectangle made up of rows of
single crochet. Mine measured 32 cm by 48 cm.
6. Thread some wool onto a blunt needle and thread if through the end of the rows on one of
the long sides of your rectangle. Pull the wool to gather the top and tie it tightly. You may
need to sew the top to close the hole completely.
7. To finish the hat whip stitch the sides closed. Each hat used just under one 100g ball of
wool.
For my second hat I wanted to try making a ribbed knitted effect I'd seen here. I made it in
exactly the same way as the first hat except I crocheted into the back loop of each stitch
only. You crochet the first row in exactly the same way as above but when it comes to all the
other rows you crochet into the back loops only. It's the front loops sticking out that give it
that ribbed effect.

Here's close-up of the ribbed crochet.

To finish my second hat I made a giant pom pom. I used some leftover wool from this
weaving and attached it to the top.
And now for some silly pictures of me trying to model the hat. I don't think I have a future as
a hat model but the other half did tell me that my hat made me look like a Smurf which I
think I'm taking as a compliment.

Crochet Cable Beanie Written Pattern

Abreviations:

SC2tog - Single Crochet 2 Together

SC13tog - Single Crochet 13 Together

HDC - Half Double Crochet

DC - Double Crochet

TRC - Treble Crochet

DTRC - Double Treble Crochet

FPDC - Front Post Double Crochet

BPDC - Back Post Double Crochet

FPTRC - Front Post Treble Crochet

FPDTRC - Front Post Double Treble Crochet

Notes:

1. This hat is crochet from the bottom to top.

2. Foundation chain must be multiple of 11 (9 chains for 9 cable strands, 2 chains for space between two cables).

Tips:

This pattern may applicable for any size as long as you apply these instructions,

1. Determine the head circumference.

2. Make foundation of 11 or 8 (Toddler size) chains, and it has to be as long as or close to the head circumference. One or
two chains longer or shorter is acceptable. It can be adjusted by crocheting a little bit tightly or loosely / decreasing or
increasing the gauge.

BRIM

Chain 88, SS to the initial chain, do not twist the chain.

Row 1: CH2, DC in the same stitch, DC in each of the next stitch, SS to the first DC. (88)

Row 2: CH2, *FPDC to the first DC, BPDC to the next stitch**, repeat from * to ** all around, SS to the first FPDC. (88)

Row 3-5: Repeat row 2. (88)

BODY

Special note: I highly recommend you to learn this VIDEO before starting this section. It will teach you very quickly to
master Cable Stitch Crochet!

Row 6: CH2, *FPDC in each of the next 9 stitches, DC in each of the next 2 stitches**, repeat *to** all around, SS to first
FPDC. (88)

Special note: FPDC in this row will be numbered as 1st to 9th in row from the beginning of the row.

Row 7: CH2, *skip the 1st, to 3rd stitches, FPDTRC to the 4th to 6th stitches, FPDTRC to the 1st to 3rd stitches, FPTRC to
the 7th to 9th stitches, SC in each of the next 2 stitches**, repeat from *to** all around, SS to the first FPDTRC. (88)

Row 8: CH2, HDC in the same stitch, HDC in each of the next stitches, all around, SS to the first HDC. (88)

Row 9: CH2, *FPTRC to the 1st to 3rd FPDTRC of row 7, skip 4th to 6th stitches of row 7, FPDTRC to 7th to 9th stitches of
row 7, FPDTRC to the first 4th to 6th stitches of row 7 (do it backside), SC to the next 2 HDC of row 8, SS to the first
FPTRC. (88)

Row 10: Repeat row 8.

Row 11-14: Repeat row 7-10.

Row 15-18: Repeat row 7-10.

I add 2 more rows (same as row 7-8) to make the beanie higher, but 18 rows is already quite enough.

PEAK

This is the decreasing section. We decrease 2 strands into 1 in each row. Decreasing point is underlined.

Special note: I don't use any pattern or tutorial in this section but I think this VIDEO will be helpful.

Row 19: CH2, *FPDTRC to the 4th to 6th stitches of row 17, FPDTRC to the 1st to 3rd stitches of row 17, FPTRC together
the 7th and 8th stitches of row 17, FPTRC the 9th stitch of row 17, SC to the next 2 HDC stitches of row 18**, repeat *to**
all around, SS to the first FPDTRC. Now the cable consist of 8 strands. (80)

Row 20: Repeat row 8.

Row 21: CH2, *FPTRC to the 1th to 3rd stitch, FPDTRC the 7th to 8th stitches of row 19, (do it trough backside) FPDTRC
to the 4th stitch, FPDTRC together the 5th to 6th stitches of row 19, SC to the next 2 HDC stitches of row 20**, repeat
from *to** all around, SS to the first FPTRC. Now the cable consist of 7 strands. (72)

Row 22: Repeat row 8

Row 23: CH2, *FPDTRC to 4th to 5th stitches, FPDTRC to the 1st stitch of row 21, FPDTRC together the 2nd and the 3rd
stitches of row 21, FPTRC to the 6th to 7th, SC in each of the next 2 stitches**, repeat *to** all around, SS to the first
FPDTRC. Now the cable has 6 strands left over. (64)

Row 24: Repeat row 8.

Row 25: CH2, *FPTRC together the 1st and the 2nd stitches of row 23, FPDTRC in each of the 5th and 6th stitches of row
23, (do it through backside) FPDTRC in each of the 3rd and 4th stitches of row 23, SC in each of the next 2 HDC stitches of
row 24**, repeat from *to** all around, SS to the first FPTRC. There are 5 cable strands left over. (58)

Row 26: repeat row 8. (58)

Row 27: CH2, *FPDTRC together the 2nd and 3rd stitches of row 25, FPDTRC to the 1st stitch of row 25, FPTRC in each of
4th and 5th stitches of row 25, SC in each of the next 2 HDC stitches of row 26**, repeat *to** all around, SS to the first
FPDTRC. There are 4 strands left over. (50)

Row 28: Repeat row 8. (50)

Row 29: CH2, *FPTRC the 1st stitch of row 27, FPDTRC together the 3rd and the 4th stitches of row 27, (do it through
backside) FPDTRC the 2nd stitch of row 27, SC in each of the next 2 HDC stitches of row 28, SS to the first FPTRC. There 3
strands left over. (42)

Row 30: Repeat row 8. (42)

Row 31: CH2, *FPDC the 1st stitch of row 29, FPTRC together the 2nd and the 3rd stitches of row 29, SC in each of the
next 2 HDC stitches of row 30**, repead *to** all around, SS to the first FPDC. There are 2 strands left over. (42)

Row 32: Repeat row 8. (42)

Row 33: CH2, *FPDC together the 1st and the 2nd stitches of row 31, SC2tog the next 2 HDC stitches of row 32**, repeat
*to** all around, SS to the first FPDC. (26)

Row 34: CH1, SC2tog in each of the next 2 stitches all around, SS to the first SC. (13)

Row 35: CH1, SC13tog

Cut off the yarn weave in ends.

Adult Puff Stitch Beanie

puff stitch: yarn over, insert hook into your stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert your hook
back into that same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert your hook once again into the same
stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. You should now have 7 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull
through all 7 loops. Then chain 1.

front post double crochet (fpdc): Yarn over hook. Insert hook from the front of your work and wrap
hook around the entire double crochet. Yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through 2
loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops.

back post double crochet (bpdc): Yarn over hook. Insert hook from the back of your work and wrap
hook around the entire double crochet. Yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through 2
loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops

Adult Size:

Using a 5mm crochet hook and worsted yarn chain 3 and slip stitch into the first chain to make a
circle. Make 6 puff stitches into the ring making sure not to chain 2 at the beginning.

Slip stitch into the top of the very first puff stitch you did to close the round.

For the next row make two puff stitches into each chain 1 space around. Join with a slip stitch to the
first puff stitch of that round. You should now have 12 stitches.
In the next round *make 1 puff stitch in the first chain 1 space then make 2 puff stitches into the next
chain 1 space.* Repeat from * to * around then join with a slip stitch to the first puff stitch of that round
to close. By now you need to have 18 puff stitches.

For the next round *make a puff stitch into the next 2 chain one spaces, followed by 2 puffs into the
next chain 1 space*. Repeat from * to * around, then join with a slip stitch to the first puff stitch of that
round. You should have 24 puff stitches now.

For the next increase row, *make 1 puff stitch into the next 3 chain one spaces followed by 2 puffs in
the next chain 1 space*. Repeat from * to * around then join with a slip stitch to the first puff stitch of
that round. You should have 30 puff stitches now.

For the next increase row, *make 1 puff stitch into the next 4 chain one spaces followed by 2 puffs in
the next chain 1 space*. Repeat from * to * around then join with a slip stitch to the first puff stitch of
that round. You should have 36 puff stitches now.

For the next 10 - 12 rows make 1 puff stitch into each chain 1 space then join with a slip stitch to the
first puff stitch of that round.

Chain 2 and make a double crochet into each puff stitch and chain 1 space around, then join with a
slip stitch to close the round.

Chain 2 and *make a front post double crochet (fpdc) into the first stitch, then make a back post
double crochet (bpdc) into the following stitch*. Repeat from * to * until the end of the round. Join with
a slip stitch to close the round. Repeat this round a further 4 or 5 times depending on how thick you
would like the band.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Make yourself a pom pom and sew onto the top of the beanie.
 MEGHAN'S HAT (Adult size only)
Abbreviations:
CH - chain
SC - single crochet
ESC - extended single crochet
FPDC - front post double crochet

Using H hook, Make a ring

Round 1: SC 8 into ring, join in first sc made.
DON'T pull the ring all the way closed yet.
Round 2: CH 3, *Puff stitch into ring, CH 1 again* 6 times. Join into top of first Puff made.
Now pull the ring closed. 6 Puff stitches made. If you want to count the stitches, you should
have 17.

Round 3: CH 1, ESC in same stitch, 2 ESC's in Chain space, *ESC in top of next Puff stitch,
2 ESC's in next Chain space* repeat around. Join in first ESC. 18 stitches.

Round 4: CH 3, Puff stitch into Chain space from round 2, CH 1, Puff stitch into same space,
CH 1, *Puff stitch into next Chain space, CH 1, Puff stitch into same space, CH 1* repeat
around. Join into top of first Puff made. 12 Puff stitches made. 35 stitches.

Round 5: Ch 1, ESC in same stitch, 2 ESC's in Chain space, *ESC in top of next Puff stitch, 2
ESC's in next Chain space* repeat around. Join in first ESC. 36 stitches.

Round 6: Slip stitch into next stitch, CH 1, 2 ESC's in same stitch as chain, 2 ESC in next
stitch, skip next stitch, (Puff stitch into Chain space from round 4, CH 1, Puff stitch into same
space - this creates the V-Puff), skip the next stitch, *2 ESC's in each of next 2
stitches, skip next stitch, V-Puff in next Chain space from round 4, skip next stitch* repeat
around. Join in first ESC. 6 V-Puffs made. 54 stitches. (see picture below)

Round 7: CH 1, 2 ESC into same stitch as chain, FPDC around each of next 2 stitches, 2
ESC's in next, skip next, ESC in top of Puff, 2 ESC's in Chain space, ESC in top of next Puff,
*2 ESC's in next stitch, FPDC around each of next 2 stitches, 2 ESC's in next stitch, skip next,
ESC in top of Puff, 2 ESC's in Chain space, ESC in top of next Puff* repeat around. Join into
first ESC. 60 stitches. (see picture below)

Round 8: CH 1, 2 ESC's in same stitch as chain, ESC in next stitch, FPDC around each of
next 2 FPDC's, ESC in next stitch, 2 ESC's in next stitch, skip next stitch, make V-Puff in
chain space from round 6, skip next stitch, *2 ESC's in next stitch, ESC in next, FPDC around
each of next 2 FPDC's, ESC in next stitch, 2 ESC's in next stitch, skip next, V-Puff in chain
space, skip next stitch* repeat around. Join into first ESC. 78 stitches.

Round 9: CH 1, ESC in same stitch as chain, ESC in each of next 2 stitches, FPDC around
each of next 2 FPDC's, ESC in each of next 3 stitches, skip next, ESC in top of Puff, 2 ESC's
in chain space, ESC in top of next Puff, *ESC in each of next 3 stitches, FPDC around each
of next 2 FPDC's, ESC in each of next 3, skip next, ESC in top of Puff, 2 ESC's in chain
space, ESC in top of next Puff* repeat around. Join into first ESC. 72 stitches.

Round 10: CH 1, ESC in same stitch as chain, ESC in each of next 2 stitches, FPDC around
each of next 2 FPDC's, ESC in each of next 3 stitches, skip next, V-Puff in chain space from 2
rounds previous, skip next stitch, *ESC in each of next 3 stitches, FPDC around each of next
2 FPDC's, ESC in each of next 3 stitches, skip next, V-Puff into chain space, skip next* repeat
around. Join into first ESC. 78 stitches.

Rounds 11-25: Repeat rounds 9 and 10, ending with row 9.

Round 26: Change to E hook. Slip stitch into next stitch, CH 1, ESC in same stitch as chain,
ESC in next stitch, FPDC around each of next 2 FPDC's, ESC in each of next 2 stitches,
FPDC around each of next 2 stitches, ESC in each of next 2 stitches, FPDC around each of
next 2 stitches. This creates the ribbing. Repeat *2 ESC's, 2 FPDC's* all the way around .
Join in first ESC. 72 stitches.

Rounds 27-32: CH 1, ESC in same stitch as chain, ESC in next stitch, FPDC around next 2
FPDC's, *ESC in each of next 2 ESC's, FPDC around each of next 2 FPDC's* repeat around.
Join in first ESC. 72 stitches.

Done! Fasten off and weave in those ends.

Starting with round 6 and rest of even rounds until

ribbing, to make the V-Puff:

Skip the ESC that was worked into the top of puff.

Insert hook into chain space and work the V-Puff over top the the 2 ESC's in that space.

Skip the ESC from the top of second puff.

Continue with ESC as written in pattern.

The puff stitch is really a modified half double crochet with an extra chain to close it, which
creates 2 stitches. The chain to close it is at the top of the puff, with the technical hdc stitch
being pushed to the right and kinda hanging out unattached to anything. Making the V-puff in
this pattern will result in 5 stitches (each puff creating 2 and the extra chain 1 in the middle):

1 is technically the 1st puff stitch

2 is the chain to close
3 is the chain 1
4 is the 2nd puff stitch
5 is the chain to close

Always skip #1, so the stitch count will not be consistent, even after the increase rounds.

Starting with round 7 and rest of odd rounds

until ribbing, to work ESC's in to the V-Puff:

Skip stitch #1
ESC in #2
2 ESC's in space created by #3,4
ESC in #5

Continue with ESC as written in pattern