24 COSMETICS

TABLE 1.7. Lipids Used in Cosmetic Molded Sticksa

Lipid CAS Registry Number Characteristics

oils
Castor oil [8001-79-4] High gloss; high viscosity
Mineral oil [8012-95-1] High gloss
Esters/alcohols
Butyl stearate [123-95-5] Rapid wetting of pigments;
controls sweating at
elevated temperatures
Guerbet alcohols
Decyl tetradecanol [58670-89-6] Satiny gloss
Octyl dodecanol [5333-42-6] Satiny gloss
Isocetyl alcohol [36311-34-9] Similar to castor oil
Isopropyl myristate [110-27-0] Same as butyl stearate
Isopropyl palmitate [142-91-6] Same as butyl stearate
Oleyl alcohol [143-28-2] High gloss; turns rancid
Fats
Cocoa butter [8002-31-1] Tendency to bloom
Glyceryl monostearate [31566-31-1] High melting
Hydrogenated cocoglyceridesb Variable properties
Hydrogenated vegetable oil [68334-28-1] Greasy
Lanolin [8006-54-0] Wets pigments
Waxes
Beeswax [8006-40-4] Low gloss
Candelilla [8006-44-8] Low melting
Carnauba [8015-86-9] Very hard
Ozokerite [8021-55-4] Thermally stable
Dye solvents
Ethoxydiglycol acetate [112-15-2] Bitter
Polyethylene glycols [25322-68-3]
Propylene glycol [57-55-6]
a
Ref. 1 includes comprehensive listings.
b
These are blends of mono-, di-, and triglycerides of hydrogenated coconut oil.

normal use; stick components must not elicit unpleasant, for example, oily or warming,
sensations after application; pigments must be uniformly distributed and must not react
photochemically with the remaining stick components to cause rancidity or photoirrita-
tion; and finally, the film produced on the body site must be resistant to rubbing off or
transferring to eating utensils or clothing.

Compressed-Powder Sticks Compression of a blend of solids using a suitable binder or

by extruding a water containing magma results in compressed-powder sticks.

1.6.3. Powder Blending

Cosmetic powders serve two primary functions. One group, commonly called body pow-
ders or talcs, is applied to the skin to provide lubricity and to absorb excessive moisture.
The second group, commonly referred to as face powders, exists in both loose and com-
pressed forms and is used to impart some color to the skin and to dull excessive oiliness.