Cosmeticsandtoiletries201604 DL

April 2016
Focus on
Sun Protection
Protection vs. Production: Sunscreens Benefits p 14
No Ideal for SPF Testing Substrates p 20
Screening the Sun, Resisting the Rub p 44
Skin Care Formulary p 62
Choose
M ultiple
Wisely:
Microalgae, Mult
Appl iple
icatio
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C&T April 2016 Editors note | C&T
Cover art by James Fergus
2 Editors Note
6 Scientific Advisors
Kevin Campbell
63 Endpoint: Let There Be Light
by R. Grabenhofer Everybody needs to
64 Advertiser Index wear sunscreen
You know how sometimes you get a song stuck in your head and
Market Intelligence you cant get it to stop? Thats how its been for me as we prepped
this issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries, our sun protection issue.
8 A New Day for Sun Care: Data Shows Great The year was 1999, and a new song from Baz Luhrmann, a guy I
Growth Potential for Sun Protection had never heard of but who would forever stick in my memory, was
by J. Gleason-Allured getting airplay all over the radio.
12 Technology Launches The single was from Luhrmanns new album, Something for
Everyone, and was a spoken recording of a mock commencement
address that, in those early days of the Internet, was mistakenly
Research attributed to Kurt Vonnegut. (The piece was actually a column
written by Mary Schmich of the Chicago Tribune.) And it started
14 Pick and Choose
out with some very practical advice that is more pertinent today
by R. Ross-Fichtner, A. Mazza and
than ever:
C. Robichaud
20 SPF Tests Reveal: No Ideal In Vitro Substrate Wear sunscreen.
Exists by M. Pissavini, S. Marguerie and If I could offer you only one tip for the future, sunscreen
O. Doucet would be it
The long-term benefits of sunscreen have been proved by scientists
32 Cleansing, Protecting and Anti-aging: whereas the rest of my advice has no basis more reliable than my
Choosing the Right Microalgae for the Job own meandering experience...
by S. Ruffell, L.M. Carreiro and K.M. Mller
Ironically, the advice to wear sunscreen is advice that todays
38 Taking on a New Responsibility: The consumer still isnt heeding. According to recent data from Statista,
Unidentified Role of Sunscreen in Treating in 2015, only 3.6% of U.S. families surveyed said they had used four
Hyperpigmentation by S. Saxena and or more bottles of suntan, sunscreen or sunless tanning products
H.I. Maibach for the face in the previous 12 months. That number climbs, though
only marginally, for similar products for the body: 4.3%.
Testing More startling were the numbers of those who had used less
than one bottle in the previous 12 months: 10.5% and 9% for face
44 Supporting Claims for Rub-Resistant Sun and body products, respectively.
Protection by E. Delamour, S. Miksa, D. Lutz Clearly more needs to be done to educate and encourage the use
and C. Guy of sunscreen. As cosmetic formulators, you can help by continuing
to innovate; by creating better and stronger products that satisfy
the sensory needs of the consumer. As an industry, we will continue
Formulating
to develop new technologies and work so that regulations like
58 Getting Their Daily Dose: Consumer Friendly the Sunscreen Innovation Act, which would open the door for
Sunscreens for Maximum Compliance countless new inventions, are given due attention.
by N. Wilson In the meantime, Trust me on the sunscreen.
60 Not Just for the Beach Anymore:

Incorporating Sun Protection Into Daily
Product Alters Behavior by K. Steventon
62 Skin Care Formulary
2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 131, No. 3 | April 2016

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Scientific Advisory Board | C&T
Eric Abrutyn Luigi Rigano, Ph.D.

TPC2 Advisors Ltd. Industrial Consulting
Advisor Insight Research
Prithwiraj Maitra
Johnson & Johnson
Zoe Diana Sylvianne
Draelos, M.D. Schnebert, M.D.
Dermatology LVMH Recherche
Sunscreens Daily Duty Consulting Services
In a recent Q&A with Johnson & Johnson Con-

sumer, Inc., Prithwiraj Maitra, associate director Angela R. Eppler, Ron Sharpe
and research fellow for Johnson & Johnson and Ph.D. Amway
Pfizer Consumer
C&T scientific advisor, gave his insights on why Healthcare
sunscreen use is so important and how it needs
to be part of a daily skin care regimen.
Trefor Evans, Ph.D. Leslie C. Smith,
TA Evans LLC Ph.D.
J&J: What drives your passion for sun protection? Consultant
PM: We know that skin cancer is preventable when

sunscreen is used appropriatelyand I want to use my
knowledge and network to help reduce incidences of skin S. Peter Foltis David C. Steinberg
cancer in our world today. On top of being effective and LOral Steinberg & Associates
safe, I try to make a product that customers enjoy using.
You can have the best product in the world, but if consum-
ers dont like putting it on it wont work.
J&J: What are people doing wrong when it comes to sun Mindy Goldstein,
Ph.D.
Peter Tsolis
The Este Lauder
protection? Atlantic Coast Media Companies
Group
PM: Most people either dont apply sunscreen, dont apply
the right amount, or they dont reapply properly. The
most important thing you can do is to make sunscreen an Shuzo Ishidate, Russel Walters,
everyday routine. Research has shown that daily sunscreen Ph.D. Ph.D.
use can cut the incidence of melanoma in half. Shiseido Research Johnson &
Center Johnson
J&J: Why is skin health so important?
PM: Healthy skin is vital. It builds confidence and self- Karl Laden Claudie Willemin
esteem, and it also protects your body from external Ph.D. LOral
Alpa Cosmetics
damage. Sunscreen not only prevents skin cancer, it also
reduces signs of premature skin aging. Over 90% of the vis-
ible changes commonly attributed to skin aging are caused
by the sun. The best way to protect your natural beauty Jennifer Marsh, Shuliang Zhang,
is by practicing comprehensive photo-protection, which Ph.D. Ph.D.
Procter & Gamble Unilever
includes using a broad-spectrum sunscreen every day.
J&J: How could people improve the way they take care of
their skin?
Marc Pissavini,
PM: I think kids and teens should be better educated Ph.D.
Coty-Lancaster
about sun safe behaviors. For example, not everyone knows
how bad tanning isand many people of color incorrectly
think they dont need sun protection. Learning the impor-
tance of safe sun behaviors early on in life can really help to
reduce incidence of skin cancer in future generations. Advisor Insight
For more insight from Prithwiraj

See the original Q&A at http://www.neutrogena.com/ Maitra log on to
category/choose+skin+health-/expert+advice.do www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com

Market Intelligence | C&T
Data Shows Great Growth

Potential for Sun Protection
A New Day for Sun Care
Jeb Gleason-Allured
T
he global sun care market is among the
smallest personal care segments, accord-
ing to Euromonitor figures. However,
the business intelligence firm has forecast
the global market to grow 6.4% to about $10
billion by 2018, with results roughly split
between emerging and mature markets.
All the growth during that forward-
looking period will come from emerging
markets. Yet, globally, adoption of sun care
remains low.
Sun Care
Dangerously Underused
Consumers around the world have varying
levels of concern, according to Datamonitor
figures. Among countries surveyed, Indians
and Brazilians were most concerned45%
and 42%, respectively. England and the
United States were significantly less so: 18%
and 28%, respectively. These statistics have
significant consequences for human health.
According to the World Health Organiza-
tion, approximately 132,000 new cases of
melanoma are diagnosed around the world
each year. Australia and New Zealand have
the highest melanoma incidence, according to
the Aim at Melanoma Foundation, more than
double the rate of North America.
More than 3.3 million people are treated
Save to for non-melanoma skin cancer in the United
MyLibrary States each year.1 Meanwhile, melanoma rates
in the country have more than doubled in
Reproduction in English or any other language of

8 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 131, No. 3 | April 2016
2016 Allured Business Media.
INVENTING
ADVANCED SUN CARE
FOR YOU
Covestro Deutschland AG, D-51365 Leverkusen COV00073425
Visit us at
14th April
In Paris, 12th
Booth E55
When the surfs up, guys dont want to think about anything else.
Lets protect them anyway. As a leading supplier of polymers, Covestro,
formerly Bayer MaterialScience, enables innovative cosmetics applications.
We help you to make the most of your sun care formulations. Baycusan C 2000
not only makes them light, transparent and highly protective, but also really
easy to apply for well-protected skin thats ready to enjoy the sun.
Beauty Made Possible.
www.baycusan.com
the last 30 years. According to the American Cancer skin care, according to Datamonitor. For sun care
Society, 73,870 Americans were diagnosed with products, specifically, male and female consumers
melanoma last year42,670 men and 31,200 women. listed their top factors as follows:
Of those cases, nearly 10,000 resulted in death. Value
Efficacy
Markets Seeking Ease of use/application
Different Benefits Trust/familiarity with brand
According to Datamonitor figures, the global sun Natural/organic ingredients
protection product market was valued at $5.6 billion Lowest possible price
in 2013. After-sun and self-tanning products were Sensory elements: scent, texture, etc.
valued at $1.7 billion and $1.4 billion, respectively. Recommendations
Brand social and environmental responsibility
Sun Care Usage Patterns
According to 2015 figures gathered by Statista,
and Purchase Drivers more than 28% of consumers prefer SPF 30+ sun
According to Experian data, just 3.61% of U.S. care, followed by SPF 15-29 (7%) and SPF 1-14
households use four or more bottles of facial suntan/ (2.75%).
sunscreen/sunless tanning products per year. About With the proliferating types of formats and new
22% use one bottle or less, and nearly 2% use none environmental claims, sun care is poised for innova-
at all. According to the data, 4.3% of U.S. households tion and growth.
use four or more bottles of body suntan/sunscreen/
sunless tanning products in a year. About 17% use
References
one bottle or less, with just more than 1% using none.
1. HW Rogers, MA Weinstock, SR Feldman and BM Coldiron,
When seeking out skin care products, 62% of Incidence estimate of nonmelanoma skin cancer (keratinocyte
surveyed global consumers listed sun protection/UV carcinomas) in the US population. JAMA Dermatol, 151(10),
10811086 (2015)
protection as the top product benefit they sought in

We want to market a new sunscreen
that applies clear when wet and is
sprayable , with no sticky feeling . It must
be stable , highly waterresistant and
use mineral filters . It should also be
fragrance free , while helping
even skin tone .
Todays customers want moremore functionality, more

protection and more natural ingredients. Thats where
Hallstar comes in. Our collaborative approach and
specialty chemistry expertise help you stay ahead of the
trends, work within tight requirements and manage global
regulations. Need a competitive edge? Contact Hallstar
about a custom formulated solution today. www.hallstar.com/ct
Technology Launches
Combat Urban Stressors Conditioning Polymers
Silab has introduced Inolex recently
Mitokinyl (INCI: Yeast launched ClariSilk
Extract), also known (INCI: Polyester-11)
as Pichia heedii, an and ClariSoft (INCI:
anti-pollution natural Trimethylolpropane
active ingredient, which tricaprylate/tricaprate
is rich in glucomannans (and) Polyester-11),
and is able to fight conditioning
damaging environmental polymers for hair
stressers through a care. Both ingredients
regulation pathway. The were tested in clear
ingredient regulates shampoos and 2-in-1
two major biological pathways of pollutant stress response: the shampoo/conditioners, which are trending in Asia. Advanced
synthesis of mitokines (prohibitines) is normalized and the aryl- conditioning properties were also proven with the ingredients
hydrocarbon receptor is deactivated. for non-foaming, silicone-free conditioning cleaners, which
Additionally, during a pollution attack, the ingredient forms gained traction in developed hair care markets.
an efficient barrier and optimizes complexion tone and radiance, Cationic and ester groups drive the two ingredients to
as shown in Caucasian and Asian volunteers. Mitokinyl protects have multiple functions such as conditioning, slip and gloss.
fragile skin against urban stresses and is recommended in most Additionally, a protective layer and silky feel, as well as clarity
anti-pollution facial and body skin care products. A study in of formulations, are provided by the alkyl groups.
vitro tested Mitokinyl, which established the improvement in www.inolex.com/fr
parameters of complexion radiance with continuous results.
www.silab.fr
Stress Reducer Slimming Properties

Greenaltech introduced Laboratoires
Algaktiv Zen (INCI: not Expanscience
available), a microalgae introduced Macaline
blend helping restore the (INCI: Propanediol
homeostasis of the skin by (and) Water (and)
protecting it from inner Lepidium Meyenii
stress signals and restoring Root Extract), its
skins natural circadian first cosmetic active
rhythm. The active supports ingredient with
acting on skins neurological slimming properties,
system and its connection to including draining
an individuals well-being. and firming.
The ingredient has various benefits including preventing and Made from macaa Latin American plant grown on the
relieving stress-related acne, developing the well-being of skin care, Andean plateausMacaline is designed to help shed fat and
advancing sleep routine and more. limit fibrosis in the fat cells; strengthen the blood vessels
www.greenaltech.com structure and improve microcirculation, which reduces
puffiness. Its said to restore the dermal matrix, firming the
skin. Some benefits from these effects include a toned figure,
less cellulite, a minimized orange-peel effect and a reduced
heavy-leg feeling.
www.expanscience.com/en

Research | C&T
Balancing Sunscreen Benefits:

Sun Protection or Vitamin D Production?
Pick and Choose
Robert Ross-Fichtner, MSc, Angela Mazza,
MD, and Claire Robichaud
Focal Point Research Inc., Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
A
s our knowledge of the suns impact on our skinspecifically the
KEY WORDS ever-increasing concerns about skin damage and wrinkling, and more
importantly global increases in skin cancershas grown in the past 30
sun protection factor years, scientists have been driven to provide products with much greater sun
sunscreen innovation protection. From the early sun protection factor (SPF) 15 products, we now
act spf vitamin d routinely see products with SPF 50-plus.
During this time we have also made enormous achievements broaden-
ing the UV absorption capabilities to eliminate much of the UVA spectral
range. Further, the US hopes to introduce additional superior sunscreen
actives to the market via the Sunscreen Innovation Act. If at any time we feel
complacent about this critical class of products, new research emerges that
challenges our perceptions of sunscreens and human health outcomes.
ABSTRACT
Its well-known that over- Sunscreen and Vitamin D Synthesis
exposure to UV light is As sunscreen science has advanced, an ongoing dialogue about vitamin D
harmful to the body, yet deficiency and its reported health impacts has emerged. It is well-recognized
it is vital for production that Vitamin D deficiency affects approximately 40% of children and 60%
of essential vitamin D. of adults.1 Without this vitamin, it is very difficult for the body to absorb
calcium and phosphate, integral components of our bodys bones and teeth.
Understanding the balance
While it is possible to get Vitamin D from several types of foods, includ-
between the benefits of ing fish, liver and milk, very little is absorbed through the diet. The principle
sun protection and vitamin human source of vitamin D is sun-synthesized.2
D synthesis is not yet well Lack of Vitamin D is related to a variety of health issues including
understood. musculoskeletal problems, some forms of cancer, autoimmune diseases and
neurocognitive disorders.3 The National Osteoporosis Foundation recom-
mends that all adults should have 400 to 800 International units (IU) of
Vitamin D per day; those over 50 years of age need approximately 1,000 IU
per day.4
The amount of vitamin D that a person can synthesize from exposure
to sunlight depends on several factors, including where and when a person
exposes their skin, air pollution, altitude and cloud cover, among others.
However, these same factors inversely affect the risk for sunburn and skin
Save to
cancers. It is theoretically possible to have too much Vitamin D, but it is rare
My Library
and would normally happen only from excessive vitamin supplementation,
not from diet or sun exposure alone.5

Research | C&T
Vitamin D deficiency is a much more common produced when proper dosing was observed, but this
occurrence, due to limited sun exposure in northern was done in a high-sun environment.9 This is worth
and southern latitudes and fear of developing skin consideration, particularly in low-sun environments
cancers. The primary strategies used to mitigate with special groups such as children and pregnant
the risk of skin cancers are avoiding sun exposure, women, as Vitamin D is critical to the formation and
wearing appropriate clothing and applying sunscreen. maintenance of strong bonesparticularly during
Using a sunscreen with a sun protection factor of 30 development. Pregnant women with low levels of vita-
reduces UV exposure by nearly 97%.6 It would make min D will not pass on enough of this crucial vitamin
sense theoretically that this also has the potential to to their babies in utero.
reduce the skins capacity to produce vitamin D.
Sunscreen Facilitating
The Battle Between Adequate Vitamin D Synthesis
Vitamin D Production and A recent paper reveals research into the thought-
Cancer Risk provoking concept of designing a sunscreen that
The debate that has ensued over the years has maximizes vitamin D synthesis in skin.10 Researchers
examined the risk-benefit ratio of sunscreen use. at Boston University in Massachusetts developed a
Regarding the benefit, researchers have examined product they refer to as Solar D, which they found
the actual reduction in skin cancers from the use offered the same protection as SPF 30 sunscreens
of sunscreen. Data has proven that squamous cell while allowing up to 50% more protection of Vita-
cancers are reduced by approximately 51% from the min D in-vitro.10 They designed four in-vitro tests
appropriate use of sunscreen.7 However, a statisti- to measure the levels of protection and Vitamin D
cally significant protective benefit of sunscreen has optimization for these sunscreens, with human trials
not been demonstrated against either basal cell expected to follow.
carcinoma or malignant melanoma. 7 One of the investigators, Michael F. Holick, PhD,
The issues with these studies is that many date professor of medicine, physiology and biophysics at
back to 1970s and 1980s and no doubt involved Boston University School of Medicine, stated, The
sunscreens with lower SPF values than are typical ingredients in the sunscreen are essentially identical to
today, as well as without the broad-spectrum (UVA most of the major brands, with the minor adjustment
and UVB) coverage which is typical in sunscreens of the formulation to enhance the transmission of
presently available.7 It is possible that with better ultraviolet light that specifically makes vitamin D3 in
SPF technology, future studies may demonstrate the skin.11
that sunscreens may have a preventative effect on all Holick is renowned for his research in vitamin
forms of skin cancers. D and is a well-known advocate for additional
At the same time, researchers have considered the supplementation of it, being the first to identify its
possibility that sunscreens could reduce vitamin D major circulating form in human bloodknown as
status and contribute to a variety of adverse human 25-hydroxyvitamin D3.12 While debate over appro-
health outcomes. Real-world studies, however, do priate vitamin D levels continues, the suggestion
not bear this out.8 Again, this could be related to the that vitamin D deficiency is widespread is generally
types of sunscreens used in the studies, and it may accepted.
also be due to the established fact that consumers In his recent publication, the active ingredients in
dramatically under use sunscreens. the sunscreen tested along with their composition are
The recommended dose of sunscreen is 2 mg/cm; listed in Table 1.13
in reality, researchers have observed dosing more in Of the five actives found within Solar D, dieth-
the range of 0.39 to ylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate is not
1.5 mg/cm.7 This
begs the question: Table 1. Active Ingredients and Composition for Tested Sunscreen
Have studies show-
ing no compromise Ingredient Concentration
of vitamin D status
Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (Unvinal A) 7.3%
been the result of the
types of sunscreens Octocrylene 1.9% (Max: 10%)
used and under Homosalate 1.0% (Max: 15%)
dosing? One study Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Octyl salicylate) (Octisalate) 1.0% (Max: 5%)
showed sufficient but Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) 3% (Max: 3%)
less vitamin D was

FDA-approved, however, it is approved for use in Asia and
the European Union.14 Due to the fact that Canada allows
very similar active ingredients as the US, a sunscreen that
contains this filter would not be able to be marketed in
either country.15
According to Ernest Armstrong, head of product
development for Solar D, the company has removed
diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate from
formulations marketed in the US and Canada. While the
ingredient is currently included in the formulation on the
market in Australiawhere it is approved according
to Armstrong it will be removed because of its tendency
to stain fabrics. While other active systems were not
discussed in its recent publication, it indicates that all Solar
D products permit enhanced Vitamin D production while
passing SPF testing for label values of 15, 30 and 50.
According to Holick, Solar D sunscreens permit the
passage of some of the sunlight your skin uses naturally to
make vitamin D.11
According to these researchers, sunscreens protect the
skin against erythemal radiation (Eer) while also reducing
the effective radiation dose (EVD), which is responsible
for the formation of pre vitamin D in the human body.10
This study discusses a way to optimize the EVD/Eer ratio
behind sun protection factors of 5, 15 and 30. In-vitro
experiments demonstrated that there was a significant
increase of conversion from 7-dehydrocholesterol
(7-DHC) to pre-vitamin D when borosilicate ampoules
containing the 7-DHC were exposed to artificial UV solar
radiation. This was realized when using experimental
sunscreens that were optimized for producing Vitamin D
compared to a commercially sold sunscreen with the same
SPF. The explanation offered by these authors is that with
judicious formulation, a sunscreen can be developed that
will maximize the transmission of UV around 295 nm, the
peak action spectrum for pro-vitamin D3 production.10
Conclusion
These various findings suggest that we have much more
to learn about sun protection. For example:
How can we design sunscreens to provide proper
dosing? Clearly, consumers underutilize these vital
products, dramatically reducing their effectiveness.
Assuming proper dosing, what is the real-world
impact of vitamin D status using todays most effec-
tive sunscreens?
What else can we learn about the creation of sun-
screens to maximize vitamin D synthesis in the skin?
Can we further tailor formulations to maximize
the transmittance of critical wavelengths? Can the
in-vitro results be borne out in-vivo?
What are the regulatory implications for manufactur-
ers claiming a vitamin D benefit with monographed
sunscreens? Will North American regulators see
these as new drug claims?
Vol. 131, No. 3 | April 2016 Cosmetics & Toiletries | 17

Research | C&T
Finally, what is the correct way to regulate sun- 7. Burnett, M. E. and Wang, S. Q. (2011), Current sun-
screen controversies: a critical review. Photodermatology,
screens as a category? This is a debate that has raged
Photoimmunology & Photomedicine, 27: 5867. doi:
for decades and has no harmonized global answer. 10.1111/j.1600-0781.2011.00557.x
While there is a temptation to consider sunscreens 8. Matsuoka, L., Ide, L., Wortsman, J., MacLaughlin, J., & Holick,
simply as cosmetics, their implications for human M. (1987, June). Sunscreens suppress cutaneous vitamin D3
synthesis. The Journal of Clinical Endocrinology and Metabo-
health are truly considerable. Much remains to be lism, 64(6), 1165-8. Retrieved February 18, 2016, from http://
learned about their role in mitigating skin cancers www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/3033008
and their influence on vitamin D status. 9. Pitman, S. (2013, June 11). New research suggests sunscreens
do not significantly inhibit vitamin D synthesis. Retrieved
March 7, 2016, from CosmeticsDesign - Europe: http://
References www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Formulation-Science/
New-research-suggests-sunscreens-do-not-significantly-inhibit-
1. Wacker M. and Holick MF. Sunlight and Vitamin D: A global
vitamin-D-synthesis
perspective for health. Dermatoendocrinol. 2013; 5(1), 51108.
doi: 10.4161/derm.24494. pmid:24494042 10. Kockott D, Herzog B, Reichrath J, Keane K, Holick MF (2016)
New Approach to Develop Optimized Sunscreens that Enable
2. Food Sources of Vitamin D. (2014, February 25). Retrieved Feb-
Cutaneous Vitamin D Formation with Minimal Erythema Risk.
ruary 18, 2016, from Dietitians of Canada: http://www.dietitians.
PLoS ONE 11(1): e0145509. doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0145509
ca/Your-Health/Nutrition-A-Z/Vitamins/Food-Sources-of-Vitamin-
D.aspx 11. Boston University School of Medicine news release, accessed 2
February 2016.
3. Brazier, Y. (2016, February 4). New sunscreen offers vitamin D
production with UV protection. Medical News Today. Retrieved 12. Holick, M. (2015). Dr. Michael Holick. Retrieved February 18,
from http://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/305956.php 2016, from Dr. Michael F. Holick: http://drholick.com/
4. Calcium and Vitamin D: What You Need to Know. (n.d.). 13. (2015). Retrieved February 18, 2016, from Solar D Sunscreen:
Retrieved February 18, 2016, from National Osteoporosis http://solar-d.com.au/
Foundation: http://nof.org/calcium#howmuchvitamind 14. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2015, April 1). Code of
5. Am I getting too much Vitamin D? (n.d.). Retrieved February 18, Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved February 18, 2016,
2016, from Vitamin D Council: http://www.vitamindcouncil.org/ from U.S Department of Human Health Services: http://www.
about-vitamin-d/am-i-getting-too-much-vitamin-d/ accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.
cfm?CFRPart=352&showFR=1
6. Wang, S. Q. (n.d.). Does a higher-SPF sun-
screen always protect your skin better. Retrieved 15. Health Canada. (2013, July 7). Sunscreen Monograph
February 18, 2016, from Skin Cancer Foundation: http:// - Version 2.0. Retrieved February 18, 2016, from Health
www.skincancer.org/skin-cancer-information/ask-the-experts/ Canada: http://webprod.hc-sc.gc.ca/nhpid-bdipsn/atReq.
does-a-higher-spf-sunscreen-always-protect-your-skin-better do?atid=sunscreen-ecransolaire&lang=eng

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Research | C&T
SPF Tests Reveal

No Ideal In vitro
Substrate Exists
Marc Pissavini, Stephanie Marguerie and
Olivier Doucet
Coty-Lancaster, Monte Carlo, Monaco
T
odays sunscreens must prove, more than ever, their efficiency and
KEY WORDS safety since, among all other products, they are the object of crucial
health-related regulations. Sunscreen product companies must
SPF in vitro substrate therefore give consumers a reliable sun protection factor (SPF). To deter-
PMMA correlation mine SPF, an in vivo test should be used (per ISO 24444)i.e., creams
spreadability tested on the backs of volunteers.1 However, such tests present several
inconveniences, including cost and ethical concerns. For all these reasons,
ABSTRACT companies and the European Commission turned toward the development
In vitro SPF measurements of in vitro methods.
The most common in vitro method consists of applying the cream to
are challenged by
polymethylmetacrylate (PMMA) plates, forming a thin layer. UV radiation
reproducibility, repeatability attenuation is then determined by passing radiation through the cream and
and correlation with measuring the transmission spectra by spectroscopy. The results are then
in vivo values. Here, converted into a protection factor mathematically.2, 3 The problem arises
the authors assess in persistent differences between in vivo and in vitro results, as well as
sunscreen adhesion to reproducibility difficulties inter- and intra-laboratories.4, 5 Aberrations also
the test substrate support, are noted according to the nature of the cream and spreading procedure.
since poor adhesion Numerous studies have been carried out on the effects of the roughness
of the plate,6 the plate surface temperature7 and the technique by which the
produces bad results.
sample is spread.8, 9 These show that roughness control enhances the correla-
Surface substrates are
tion between in vitro/in vivo results and limits their variation rate.10 The
characterized by functional physics and properties of chemical surfaces and interfaces are engendered
group, charge, wettability by parameters such as the substrate roughness, morphology and precise
and surface morphology. structure form or its constitution.
Eight w/o and o/w Connected with the problem of different cream behaviors on the plates,
emulsions also are tested. it is conceivable that surface properties are the origin of measurement diffi-
Results indicate an ideal culties. Therefore, an in-depth study of PMMA substrates was carried out to
in vitro test substrate does characterize each type of plate. Analyses were performed to highlight sur-
face phenomena and their consequences on the SPF in vitromeasurement.
not exist.
Outlined here are surface characterizations of the substrates by Fourier
Transform Infrared (FTIR) Spectroscopy, goniometry, profilometry and
zeta potential techniques, both initially and at the SPF measurement, using
Save to
different creams and protocols. The results suggest an ideal in vitro test
My Library
substrate does not exist. Future in vitro SPF methods should therefore be
based on two types of plates.

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Research | C&T
Materials and Methods 5. Rdq: Root Mean Square Gradient
Plates: Numerous PMMA plate models have been 6. Rku: Kurtosis
proposed for in vitro measurements. They gener- 7. A1: Equivalent Triangle Area for peaks
ally differ by average roughness and manufacturing 8. A2: Equivalent Triangle Area for pits
process. Seven types are characterized in this study, 9. Ssc: Mean Summit Curvature
including: three molded with a roughness of 2 m 10. Vvv: Volume of void in the valleys
(HD2)a, 5 m (HD6)b and 12 m (JCIA)c; and two For every plate, the measurements were carried
each (four total) with a roughness of 2 m and out on five, 10 mm x 5 mm areas. All substrates
5m, sandblasted by water (WW2, WW5)d or air weretested.
(Europlast)e. In addition, HD6 plates pre-treated by Goniometry: A goniometerh was used at the
the surfactant cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) were University of Sciences of Nice Sophia Antipolis. All
used.11 Ten plates for each type were tested. measurements with pure water ( = 0.072 N/m)
Plate characterization, FTIR: Infrared (IR) were performed with a 2-L drop. The contact angle
measurements were performed within the Surfaces was measured 10 sec after depositing the drop. Nine
and Interfaces group of the University of Sciences drops were placed on each plate. As plates have a
of Nice Sophia Antipolis, with a spectrophotom- roughness on the order of micrometers, researchers
eterf equipped with an attenuated total reflectance were interested only in the value of the contact angle
(ATR) device. All the plates were tested to compare and not the surface energy, which is more adapted to
theirIRspectra. smooth surfaces.
In order to maximize the information collected,
three methods were used:
Creams were not Method I: Deposit pure water on the untreated
plate. This examines the hydrophilic character of the
sensitive to one raw plates.
Method II: Deposit pure water on plates pretreated
parameter based by a surfactant; this method has been shown inter-
nally to improve in vitro/in vivo correlation.
on their nature, SPF Method III: Deposit diiodomethane on
untreated and pretreated plates, in order to study
value, UV filters or the lipophilic character of the substrate and the
composition. treatmentinfluence.
Zeta potential: A zetameterj from the University
of Sciences of Nice Sophia Antipolis measured the
zeta potential for each type of plate every 0.3 pH unit,
Plate morphology analysis: Non-contact, surface from 3.5 to 9.5. The electrolyte used was a potassium
topographic analyses were conducted internally using chloride (KCl) solution at 10-3 mol/L. Moreover,
a work stationg. The parameters analyzed were those in order to vary the concentration, the device was
of the control chart established in a previous study.10 equipped with hydrochloric acid (HCl) and sodium
The following ten parameters were used to control hydroxide (NaOH) at 10-1 mol/L.
each batch of PMMA plates (molded or sandblasted): The plates with greater roughness encountered
1. Ra, Sa: Average roughness difficulties during the cell assembly because this
2. Rp: Maximum height of peaks method is more adapted to smooth surfaces. These
3. Rv: Maximum valley depth problems can be surmounted, however, either by
4. Rsk: Skewness using poly(terephthalate ethylene) (PET) layers,
which hold the sample more strongly; or by modify-
ing the program parameters, i.e., increasing the rising
Market Intelligence time or decreasing the pH steps. JCIA plates having a
roughness of 12 m still caused difficulty, so less data
n According to an Experian survey of some was collected.
28,869 respondents, between February 2014 HelioScreen Labs
a, b
and March 2015, 28% reported using sun care c

Shiseido Irica Technology Inc.
d
The Schnberg
products with an SPF of 30+; 6.92% reported e
Europlast
using those with an SPF of 15-29. f
Spectrum 100, Perkin Elmer
g
Altisurf 500 Lab-workstation, Altimet
Source: Statista h
DS A30, Kruss
j
SurPASS, Antor Paar

SPF measurements: For SPF measurements, than 50%. Further, YES indicated good results
eight creams were studied; four w/o and four o/w. In and NO, bad ones. YES followed by an asterisk
addition, to take into account the potential influence (*) specified the difference was lower than 50% but
of SPF value, two SPF 15, three SPF 30 and three SPF higher than 25%.
50 samples were chosen according to their good or The composition of each cream also was studied:
bad correlation SPF in vivo/in vitro. Internal results, UV filters, surfactants and other common raw
obtained using the 5 m roughness of: the molded materials were listed, to consider any possible influ-
PMMA platesb pretreated with cocamidopropyl ences on the measurements. Products were spread
betaine (HD6 T), untreated molded PMMAb plates onto substrates by an experiment operator. The initial
(HD6 NT), and the air-blasted plates, allowed for amounts used correlated with those established
the selection of a panel of diversified creamsi.e., following previous studies.10, 11 The method consisted
where at least two gave
good results on each
Table 1. Main Characteristics of the Chosen Sunscreens
of thesesupports.
Table 1 sum-
Product Emulsion SPF in vivo HD6 NT HD6 T Air-blasted
marizes the main
characteristics of the S2 O/W 16.0 NO YES YES
chosen formulas. A P1 O/W 34.4 NO YES* NO
result was good P2 O/W 54.6 NO NO NO
when the difference P3 W/O 15.0 NO YES*
between the in vivo
P5 W/O 50.9 NO YES NO
and in vitro SPF value
was lower than or P7 W/O 30.0 NO NO YES
equal to 25%. It was P8 O/W 30.0 YES
considered bad if the P9 W/O 50.0 YES
difference was greater

Research | C&T
of applying 1.3 mg/cm of cream onto the HD6, WW5 and Europlast plates;
0.75 mg/cm on the Schnberg, WW2 and HD2 plates; and 2 mg/cm on the
JCIA. Furthermore, a fingercot was required for JCIA application. The SPF was
calculated on nine areas of each plate. Moreover, the plated were weighed before
the addition of the product, then before the measurement in order to know the
quantity during manipulation. For SPF measurements, a transmittance analyzerk
was used. SPF measurements were performed on all the supports except the
WW2 and HD2, due to a lack ofplates.
Results: FTIR
The plate spectrums (see Figure 1) showed the same peaks for all support
types. The surfaces had the same functional groups, as evidence by carbon group
peaks at 850-700 cm-1 and 3000-2950 cm-1; the ester carbonyl at 1720 cm-1; and
two peaks at 1235cm-1 and 1145 cm-1 for the C-O. These spectra are in agree-
ment with the well-known PMMA structure shown in Figure 2. Thus, the FTIR
analysis did not discriminate between supports.
Results: Profilometry
Profilometry was used to examine several morphological parameters, with the
aim of differentiating plate types. The results shown in Table 2 are the averages of
the five areas measured on each plate, using ten plates per type.
To determinate factors differentiating the plates, a discriminant analysis was
performed on the data. Due to the strong correlation between parameters, the
Partial Least SquareDiscriminant Analysis (PLS-DA) was preferred to a classic
discriminant analysis. The calculations were run through software analysism.
Table 3 shows the relative importance of the morphological parameters for
every plate. For each plate type within a column, the first number is the regres-
sion coefficient of this plate type. A positive value indicates the parameter is
higher than the parameter average; a negative one is lower. For example, the
highest value above average for Europlast was for A2 (equivalent triangle area
for pits); the lowest below average was for Rsk (skewness). The most important is
the absolute value whereas the most discriminant and relevant is the parameter.
JCIA were eliminated from this study since the values were very different from
the others.
k
UV-2000S Transmittance Analyzer, Labsphere
m
SAS-Institute Jump 11 Pro
Figure 1. Different types of PMMA plate IR spectrums

The second number, shown in brackets, expresses
the percentage of contribution in the discrimination Figure 2. PMMA structure
profile. Here, Europlast was mainly characterized by
Rsk, A2 and A1 (equivalent triangle area for peaks).
Note that for each parameter, its contribution to plate
type discrimination could be investigatedhere, SSC
(mean summit curvature) appears relevant for all
the plate types, followed by Rdq (root mean square
gradient). In contrast, Ra (average roughness), Rv
(maximum valley depth) and Rku (kurtosis) had
poor power of discrimination.
Results indicated that molded and sandblasted
plates could be differentiated by their Ssc (mean sum-
Table 2. Morphological Parameters of the Different PMMA Plate Types

Ra Rp Rv Rsk Sa Rdq
HD6 4.581 10.642 12.114 -0.287 5.602 9.765
WW5 3.812 9.867 10.707 0.027 4.813 11.153
EURO 4.281 9.638 13.369 -0.516 6.039 11.827
HD2 1.469 3.457 4.658 -0.269 1.833 4.049
WW2 1.542 3.575 5.014 -0.707 1.657 5.751
Schnberg 1.837 4.431 5.623 -0.568 2.132 5.149
JCIA 10.656 20.330 24.174 -0.307 23.138 14.953
Rku A1 A2 Ssc Vvv
HD6 3.677 215.320 501.514 0.023 9.191E-07
WW5 3.936 201.005 372.150 0.138 7.379E-07
EURO 5.447 131.812 720.121 0.041 1.235E-06
HD2 5.443 59.037 190.073 0.010 3.549E-07
WW2 4.918 44.594 228.052 0.026 3.405E-07
Schnberg 4.643 71.751 255.499 0.023 4.270E-06
JCIA 4.870 230.748 2107.384 0.061 4.844E-01
Table 3. Relative Importance of Morphological Parameters

Parameter Europlast HD2 HD6 Schnberg WW2 WW5
Ra 0.024 [1.3%] 0.003 [0.4%] 0.228 [8.6%] -0.038 [8.9%] -0.123 [9.9%] -0.095 [3.8%]
Rp -0.025 [1.4%] -0.031 [3.9%] 0.130 [4.9%] -0.044 [10.5%] -0.087 [7.1%] 0.053 [2.1%]
Rv 0.132 [7.3%] -0.044 [5.5%] 0.107 [4.0%] -0.039 [9.3%] -0.072 [5.9%] -0.080 [3.2%]
Rdq 0.135 [7.5%] -0.179 [22.4%] -0.267 [10.1%] -0.057 [13.5%] 0.071 [5.8%] 0.292 [11.7%]
Rsk -0.477 [26.4%] 0.056 [7.1%] 0.191 [7.2%] -0.027 [6.4%] -0.104 [8.5%] 0.334 [13.4%]
Rku 0.076 [4.2%] -0.003 [0.4%] -0.061 [2.3%] 0.014 [3.2%] 0.036 [2.9%] -0.056 [2.3%]
A1 -0.224 [12.4%] 0.020 [2.5%] 0.233 [8.8%] -0.043 [10.1%] -0.131 [10.6%] 0.130 [5.2%]
A2 0.340 [18.8%] -0.037 [4.7%] 0.110 [4.1%] -0.023 [5.5%] -0.060 [4.8%] -0.312 [12.5%]
Ssc 0.186 [10.3%] -0.365 [45.8%] -0.815 [30.7%] -0.072 [17.2%] 0.290 [23.5%] 0.766 [30.7%]
Vvv 0.180 [10.0%] -0.016 [2.0%] 0.183 [6.9%] -0.032 [7.7%] -0.099 [8.0%] -0.209 [8.4%]
Sa -0.006 [0.4%] 0.042 [5.3%] 0.329 [12.4%] -0.033 [7.8%] -0.162 [13.1%] -0.17 [6.8%]

Research | C&T
mit curvature), which was higher for the sandblasted, parameters Rsk and A2. Figure 3 represents the con-
and Sa (average roughness), which was higher for tribution of the parameters studied for each substrate
the molded plates. They differed in slopes (Rdq) and type. This clearly shows the difference obtained for
curvatures (Ssc), which were higher for the Europlast. the Ssc between sandblasted (in red) and molded
These plates were similar at the level of Vvv (volume plates (in blue).
of void in the valleys), however.
Although both sanded, plates sanded by air and Results: Goniometry
by water differed significantly at the level of the Surface wettability is an essential parameter in the
interface phenomena.
Figure 3. Parameter contribution for sandblasted plates (in red) Therefore, all sub-
and molded plates (in blue) strates were assessed
via various methods.
Method I, no
pretreatment: Table4
shows a comparison
of average data levels
followed by a Tukey-
Kramer test. The aim
was to classify plates
by grouping those that
were significantly dif-
ferent. In this case, five
classes were apparent
at p < 0.05. The WW2
were the least hydro-
philic; the Schnberg,
the most. Among
those having greater
average roughness, the
Europlast plates were
the least hydrophilic.
The WW5, HD6 and
HD2 plates make up a
Table 4. Contact Angle of Pure Water on Untreated Plates
median class, referred
to as Class C; the JCIA
Plate Contact angle () Class Roughness Nature
plates were the second
WW2 87.8 degrees A 2 m Sandblasted most hydrophilic
Europlast 84.7 degrees B 5 m Sandblasted (see Table 4). All the
WW5 77.4 degrees C 5 m Sandblasted plates were notice-
HD6 76.5 degrees C 5 m Molded ably hydrophilic at a
contact angle greater
HD2 75.5 degrees C 2 m Molded
than 90 degrees.
JCIA 71.9 degrees D 12 m Molded For median class
Schnberg 61.0 degrees E 2 m Sandblasted C in particular, the
wettability was similar
for substrates of the
same roughness but
Table 5. Contact Angle of Pure Water on Untreated Plates made via different
processes; HD6 and
Contact angle () Class Roughness Nature WW5, for example.
WW5 23.1 degrees A 5 m Sandblasted Wettability was also
HD6 21.2 degrees B 5 m Molded similar in cases of
substrates having
Schnberg 20.2 degrees B, C 2 m Sandblasted
different roughnesses
Europlast 19.1 degrees C 5 m Sandblasted
but made via the same
process, as in the case

of HD6 and HD2. In contrast, wettability was different for substrates having the
same roughness and made via the same process; i.e., Europlast, WW5 or WW2,
and Schnberg. These results demonstrate that surface wettability is independent
of the roughness and nature of the plate, i.e., sandblasted or molded.
Method II, pretreatment with CAPB: As has previously been shown, a
surfactant can be used to pretreat plates for SPF measurements to improve the
affinity of the cream to the surface.11 The impact of the surfactant on wettability
was tested in this step; Table 5 shows the average contact anglesobtained.
The presence of the surfactant reduced the contact angle and increased the
hydrophilic character of the substrate. Three classes were observed, which again
were independent of the roughness and the substrateprocess.
Method III, diiodomethane with and without CAPB: Regarding lipophilicity,
a variance of analysis on the results of diiodomethane, applied to substrates with
and without CAPB, revealed five classes (see Table 6). The Europlast were the
most lipophilic plates and the HD6 (closest to the Schnberg) were the least.
The difference between WW2 and WW5, i.e., created by the same process
but with different roughnesses, was approximately 2.3 degrees. The difference
between the Schnberg and Europlast was 18 degreesalso created by the
same process and having different roughnesses. The sandblasted plates with the
lowest roughness had the largest lipophilic value. This comment is reversed for
the molded plates because the HD2 are more lipophilic than the HD6, with a
difference of 5 degrees. The authors concluded that lipophilic character was inde-
pendent of the roughness or manufacturing process (molded orsandblasted).
As shown in Table 7, the use of surfactant decreased the variation of wet-
tability between the different types of platesexcept JCIA, but strong roughness
can cause surfactant spreading. So, by definition, the plates were all hydrophilic
Table 6. Contact Angle with Diiodomethane on Untreated Plates
Contact angle () Class Roughness Nature

HD6 42.5 degrees A 5 m Molded
Schnberg 40.9 degrees A, B 2 m Sandblasted
HD2 37.5 degrees B, C 2 m Molded
WW2 33.3 degrees C, D 2 m Sandblasted
WW5 31.0 degrees D 5 m Sandblasted
JCIA 30.9 degrees D 12 m Molded
Europlast 22.8 degrees E 5 m Sandblasted
Table 7. Contact Angle with Diiodomethane on Pretreated Plates
Contact angle () Class Roughness Nature

HD6 88.2 degrees A 5 m Molded
Schnberg 84.3 degrees A, B 2 m Sandblasted
HD2 84.0 degrees A, B 2 m Molded
WW2 80.3 degrees B 2 m Sandblasted
WW5 85.5 degrees A, B 5 m Sandblasted
JCIA 65.1 degrees C 12 m Molded
EURO 85.4 degrees A, B 5 m Sandblasted

Research | C&T
in nature and exhibited strong lipophilic character. the surface charges were not influenced by the nature
The surfactant completely modified the surface of the of the plate (molded or sandblasted) or roughness.
plates and did not allow for their differentiation.
Summary of Plate Findings
Results: Zeta Potential Taken together, the described analyses allowed for
This method is used to obtain information about the characterization of various substrate types.
the surface charge of plates. Figure 4 shows all the While the functional groups and charges were
results and Table 8 summarizes the values. The the same for all types, goniometry and profilometry
purpose of this measurement was to compare values introduced some discriminating parameters. The
adopted by the different substrates. The most remark- contact angle with pure water, for example, high-
able were the isoelectric point, i.e., zeta potential lighted five groups within the seven types of plates.
where pH is equal to zero; and the plateau (in some Interestingly, the nature of the platei.e., sandblasted
cases). In the present study, the isoelectric values or molded; or low or high roughnessdid not
were not distinguishable per substrate type and for formgroups.
those between 3.3 and 4 mV. In addition, the plates The Ssc (mean summit curvature) and Vvv
could not be differentiated by the values adopted by (volume of void in the valleys) were relevant to
the plateau. discriminate plates, and the Rdq (root mean square
These types of curves are characteristic of ampho- gradient) and Ssc enabled the differentiation of
teric surfaces, i.e., positive and then negative values molded and sandblasted plates. With the plates
as the pH levels increase. With all the curves being characterized, in vitro measurements were taken next
indistinguishable, the authors concluded the charges to determine whether correlations could be made
on different substrate types were relatively similar and between the surface characteristics of the plates and
the SPF in vitro values.
Figure 4. Zeta potential in Mv according to pH for different Results:

plate types SPF Estimates
Since SPF performance
is related to the correlation
between in vivo and in
vitro SPF values, differ-
ences between the two were
studied. In vivo results were
taken from the normal-
ized in vivo SPF tests (ISO
24444) of 10 volunteers.
The average difference was
considered according to
the type of emulsion (see
Table 9). The SPFs of w/o
emulsions were, on average,
underestimated using HD6,
JCIA and Schnberg plates.
O/W emulsions also were
Table 8. Isoelectric Point and Plateau Value for Different underestimated using HD6
Plate Types and JCIA plates. Table10
highlights the products
Plate Isoelectric point (mV) Plateau (mV) leading to good or bad
HD6 3.34.1 -1119.8 results, as indicated with
YES or NO, in the same
JCIA 3.34.0 -12.326.5
way as Table 1.
Europlast 3.33.9 -17.020.0
WW5 3.33.8 13.421.4 Surface
WW5 85.5 degrees A, B Morphology
Schnberg 3.3 -15.818.79 The present work
demonstrates that each type

of plate has its own characteristics and there are
no interactions between functional groups, rough- Table 9. Plate Type in Order of Efficacy
ness, the nature of the plates, wettability or surface for In Vitro SPF Measured for W/O and
plate charges. The next step was to determine O/WSunscreens
whether a common morphological parameter
led to the same results for a product. This was Plate W/O O/W
accomplished by referencing Tables 3 and 10;
Europlast 1.8 6.8
specifically the Rdq, Ssc and Sa parameters, per
previous profilometry findings. Schnberg -3.6 3.4
As was observed, plates could be differentiated WW5 3.9 8.6
based on their Rdq, Ssc and Rdq values, specific HD6 -11.9 -8.0
to their molded or sandblasted nature. Unfortu- JCIA -12.5 -19.8
nately, inconsistencies were found, for example
in products P1 and P5, which gave a bad in vivo/
in vitro correlation on the Schnberg plates, but
a good one on the Europlast and WW5 plates; all Table 10. Products in Order of Performance
three of which are sandblasted. At the same time, for All Substrates
products P1 and P5 gave a bad correlation on the
sandblasted Schnberg plate and the molded HD6 Substrate YES NO
plate.
HD6 P9 P1, P5, P7
Conclusions were similar for the other data;
i.e., no results could validate a morphological Europlast P1, P3, P5, S2
parameter as influencing the variations in SPF WW5 P1, P3, P5, P7 P8, P9
results. In the end, it seemed that some creams Schnberg S2 P1, P5, P7, P8, P9
were influenced by morphological parameter JCIA -12.5 -19.8
whereas others were not.

Research | C&T
Surface Wettability ferentiation between sandblasted and molded plates,
The same observations were found for the study of or high and low average roughnesses.
hydrophilic/lipophilic plate characteristics and their Furthermore, measurements on surfactant-
influence on SPF measurements. While product P8 pretreated plates showed the contact angle value
gave favorable results on HD6T plates, it did not on harmonized around 20 degrees with pure water, and
the WW5 or Schnberg plates. And while hypotheses 80 degrees with diiodomethane. By characterizing
could be drawn, they are refuted when examining each plate, it was possible to study the relationship
results for products P9, P1 and P5. P1 gives favorable between their properties and the in vitro SPF results
results on HD6T, Europlast and WW5 plates; and they produced.
HD6T plates have very different wettability from Finally, in seeking a correlation between measure-
Europlast plates. ment efficiency and plate surface properties, these
Furthermore, P9 and P7 had different behaviors researchers observed that the influence of one param-
on HD6NT and WW5 plates, while the wettability of eter is specific to a given product. Some products are
the two plate types is comparable. These observations sensitive to hard slope and curvature, while others are
led to the conclusion that SPF results are not directly not. To find a type of cream that is sensitive to one
connected to surfaces properties. Moreover, in cases parameter has not been possible because it depends
where products gave poor results without a surfac- neither on the emulsion nature, nor the SPF value,
tant, the addition of CAPB gave good results. And nor the UV filter or emulsifying composition.
in cases where products gave good results without This study provided key insight into the future of
a surfactant, the addition of CAPB maintained in vitro SPF test methodsnamely they must not be
thoseresults. based on one specific test plate type, but preferably on
two specific test plate types, as described elsewhere,12
Product Composition vs. since this study clearly shows the ideal substrate does
not exist.
Measurement Effectiveness
After studying the tested formulae, no raw
References
material was found to be capable of influencing
1. ISO 24 444:2010
measurements. In addition, neither the plate wettabil-
2. BL Diffey and J Robson, J Soc Cosmet Chem 40 127133
ity nor the plate morphology directly influences the (1989)
invitro SPF measurementsonly the average rough- 3. M Pissavini et al, Cosm & Toil 118(10) (Oct 2003)
ness, Sa, is known to impact plate measurements. 4. M Rohr et al, Skin Pharmacol Physiol 23 201-2012 (2010)
It seems that the dependence of one parameter on 5. N Lionetti, C Cartigliani, A Bonfigli and L Rigano, Personal Care
any measurement is specific to the product itself. 27-31 (2014)
Thus, the in vitro SPF measurement should be 6. L Ferrero, M Pissavini, A Dehais, S Marguerie and L Zastrow,
IFSCC magazine 9(2) (April/Jun 2006)
product-dependent.
7. S Miksa, D Lutz and C Guy, Cosm & Toil 128(7) 484-494 (Jul
2013)
Conclusion 8. L Fageon, D Moyal, J Coutet and D Candau, Intl J Cosm Sci
The determination of in vitro SPF consists in 1-13 (2009)
converting, mathematically, the UV absorbance of 9. S Miksa, D Lutz and C Guy, Cosm & Toil 128(10) 742-752 (Oct
2013)
a sunscreen spread onto a PMMA substrate. The
10. M Pissavini, S Marguerie, A Dehais, L Ferrero and L Zastrow,
method still presents difficulties today. Too many Cosm & Toil 124 (2009)
results are variable or poorly correlate with in vivo 11. S Marguerie, M Pissavini, A Baud, T Carayol and O Doucet,
values. Previous studies have proven that numerous J Cosmet Sci 63 243-254 (Jul/Aug 2012)
parameters could be influencing SPF: the method 12. S Miksa, D Lutz and C Guy, Intl J Cos Sci (2015)
of spreading, product composition, and substrate

manufacturing process and roughness. Adhesion
difficulties especially come up with in vitro SPF
measurements, which shows the importance of C&T Online
understanding interface phenomena between the Find related content at
www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
product and PMMA surface. To this aim, the present
report begins by studying the different plates used.
In the described measurements, various plates
could be differentiated by slope or peaks curvature C&T Webcasts
morphological parameters. Wettability measurements Find current and upcoming webcasts at
showed that every plate has a specific surface tension,
and this property alone does not allow for the dif-

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Research | C&T
Cleansing, Protecting and Anti-aging:

Choosing the Right
Microalgae for the Job
Sarah E. Ruffell, Laurie M. Carreiro and
Kirsten M. Mller, PhD
Department of Biology, University of Waterloo, Canada
T
he Natural Products Association (NPA) defines natural as ingredi-
KEY WORDS ents that come from or are made from renewable resources found in
nature. In 2009, revenue from the sale of natural and organic cos-
algae microalgae fatty metics in the United States reached $7.8 billion and continues to increase
acids lipids cosmetics annually by 20%.1 A 2007 benchmarking survey also confirmed greater
demand for cosmetics containing natural products, noting this segment of
the market is interested in improving health while choosing environmen-
tally sustainable products.1 Furthermore, market research indicates there
is increasing demand for cosmetic products containing algae and algal
metabolites.2 This brief review will discuss current sources and the role of
these fatty acids in the cosmetics industry. It also will describe the function
of microalgal fatty acids within the cell and techniques used to manipulate
ABSTRACT
fatty acids in algal cells. Within this review, unless otherwise stated, the
There is growing demand term lipid is referring to a composition of primarily triglycerides with fatty
for algal fatty acids in acids of varying degrees of saturation.3
cosmetics. These lipids
have three main functions: Plants in Cosmetics
cleansing, protecting and Traditionally plants have been used as a source of fatty acids in cosmet-
ics. Many of these also are used in the food industry, e.g. corn, cocoa and oil
maintaining skin. As this
palm.2 For example, Elaeis guineensis (African oil palm) produces oil yields
brief review explains, of ~5,950 L/hectare and is commonly used in cosmetics. It also is a source
however, fatty acid content of food for both humans and animals.3, 4 Unfortunately, such crops use large
varies between algae, amounts of arable land.
so the careful selection Microalga, on the other hand, utilize less resources and are a potential
of species and control alternative source of lipids for the cosmetics industry.2, 4 In fact, certain
over growth conditions microalgal species exhibit higher fatty acid productivity than commonly
are necessary. Future used plant crops.5 For example, Chisti determined that algal cultivation in a
photo-bioreactor could produce an average biomass productivity of 1.54 kg/
research is suggested to
m3/d. If this algal culture had a lipid content of 15%, this could provide an
fill currentgaps.
oil yield of ~49,200 L/hectare.4 Thus, microalgae cultivation greatly outcom-
petes the palm oil yield by ~43,250 L/hectare.3, 4
Furthermore, microalgae do not require arable land since they can be
Save to
My Library
grown in bioreactors.4 These organisms also have much higher growth rates
than many crop plants, and can be grown under certain conditions that
increase lipid content.4, 6 For instance, the algal species Botryococcus braunii

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Research | C&T
can be grown in sewage as a nutrient source,7 and The uppermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum
when it is grown under stress or suboptimal growth corneum, has an important protective role in the skin
conditions, its lipid content can increase up to 80% as a barrier between the body and outside environ-
dry weight(dw).8 ment.16 It is composed of corneocytes, which are
surrounded by lipids consisting of ceramides, cho-
Fatty Acids in Cosmetics lesterol and free fatty acids.17 The lipids surrounding
Fatty acids in cosmetics have three main func- the corneocytes and their composition are essential
tions: serving as cleansing agents, protecting skin to maintaining the stratum corneum and its ability to
from epidermal damage and infection, and maintain- act as a barrier.17, 18
ing skins appearance.9 Triglycerides are composed Within healthy skin, the lipid matrix maintains a
of fatty acids, which can be synthesized in algae and lamellar formation, which is crucial for a tight skin
used for these cosmetic purposes.9, 10 Cleansing agents barrier.19 Fatty acids in cosmetics are used to artifi-
often contain disinfectants that play a critical role in cially mimic the protective role of stratum corneum
protecting skin from unwanted microorganisms, such lipids in the skin, enforcing its barrier. Combined
as those that cause infection and body odor. In fact, with other elements of the stratum corneum structure
the water and organic matter that form the primary such as ceramides, free fatty acid algal emollients
composition of most cosmetics provide ideal condi- can restore the barrier in unhealthy skin by altering
its lipid composition.20, 21 As a starting material for
emollients, research has shown that algal lipids have
Market research a C16:C18 saturated fatty acid ratio of 15:2.22 This
ratio was calculated using the fatty acid profile of
indicates there is 2000 microalgal strains, however any strains that
increasing demand were devoid of 16:0 and/or 18:0 were not included.22
Thus, there is large variation in 16:0 and 18:0 content
for cosmetic products between algal strains, and as a result strain specific
analysis is recommended.22
containing algae and Fatty acids also are used in cosmetics to main-
tain the skins appearance and reduce the effects of
algal metabolites. aging.3,9 As an individual ages, the lipids in their
skin often decrease. This can result in a total stratum
corneum lipid reduction of 30%,23 and can lead to
tions for the growth of unwanted bacteria and other eczema and dry skin.24
microorganisms.9 This can result in the spoilage of Cosmetics are used to reduce the signs of photo-
the cosmetic and even cause in skin infections.9 aging in skin that exhibits lower levels of free fatty
Interestingly, many free fatty acids inhibit the acids and triglycerides than protected skin.25 In fact,
growth of certain bacteria,11-13 making them a suitable excessive UV exposure over a lifetime results in the
ingredient in cleansers. For example, lauric acid, a decreased synthesis of enzymes involved in lipid
fatty acid commonly synthesized in algae, is an effec- generation, leading to further reduced lipid content.25
tive antimicrobial agent against Propionibacterium As a solution to insufficient fatty acid content in skin,
acnes, the bacteria associated with acne.14, 15 While the triglycerides in the form of triolein can be included in
mechanisms through which free fatty acids inhibit cosmetics to prevent the formation of deficient skin.25
bacteria are still unknown, researchers hypothesize
they impact the function of the bacterial cellular Fatty Acid
membrane.14 Manipulation in Algae
Fatty acids are composed of a carbon chain with
Market Intelligence a carboxylic acid at one end; they can vary in carbon
chain length, degree of unsaturation, and double
n Microalgae species are being seen as a wave of bond position.14 Fatty acids are naturally synthesized
the future for topical skin and body care products. by microalgae and control its membranes fluidity
in order to maintain cellular function and structure
n Micro-algae and small seaweeds can also be under varying environmental conditions.
cultivated by replicating natural marine conditions During ideal growth conditions fatty acids are
in the laboratory. used for synthesis of thylakoid membranes, which
are rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids. However,
Source: GCI (www.GCImagazine.com) under stressful growth conditions, algae divert lipid

production to triacylglycerols. These serve as energy growth rate and lower amount of the fatty acid eicos-
storage compounds and are primarily composed of apentaenoic acid.26 Thus, the careful manipulation
monounsaturated and saturated fatty acids.6, 8 Hence, and balance between growth conditions is necessary
algal cells naturally synthesize fatty acids whose to yield a specific product that could potentially be
composition within the cell are dependent on, and used within the cosmetics industry.
can be manipulated by, the surrounding environmen-
tal conditions. Algal Species Selection
The function of fatty acids is closely linked to As discussed, microalgae can provide a sustain-
the structural characteristics of the particular acid.14 able source of fatty acids for cosmetic applications.
As noted, the fatty acid content of an algal cell Their biomass productivity and fatty acid content
can be manipulated by varying the growth condi- should be considered when selecting the appropriate
tions to target and enhance the cellular content of algal species or strain. An algal species with a high
desirable acids. For example, as the environmental fatty acid content (% dw) or biomass productivity
temperatures of an algal growth culture increases (g/L/day), however, may not have the highest fatty
or decreases, the fatty acid content becomes more acid productivity (mg/L/day).10
saturated or unsaturated, respectively.6 For example, Chlorella minutissima 494 has
Light can also influence the fatty acid content in greater fatty acid productivity than Chlorella sp.
an algal cell through photoadaptation. For example, 313. The former has a 0.40 g/L/day biomass pro-
as light intensity decreases, thylakoid membrane ductivity and 3.73% fatty acid content, resulting in a
synthesis increases, resulting in a corresponding rise 14.78mg/L/day fatty acid productivity. The latter has
in polyunsaturated fatty acid content.6 Notably, the a 0.45 g/L/day biomass productivity and 2.91% fatty
growth conditions under which microalgal cultures acid content, resulting in a 13.12 mg/L/day fatty acid
are maintained can simultaneously influence growth productivity.10
rate as well as fatty acid content. As another example, In addition, there can be considerable variation
the red algal species Porphyridium cruentum, when in fatty acid productivity (mg/L/day) within a genus
grown under low light intensity, results in a reduced such as Chlorella, ranging from 38.30 mg/L/day in

Research | C&T
Chlorella sp. 800, to 12.52 mg/L/day in C. minutis- is necessary to establish the fatty acid profile of more
sima 444.10 Lastly, approximately 2% of algal species algal species and to explore mechanisms that enhance
can produce toxins and other harmful metabolites their productivity.
that may contaminate fatty acid extracts.27 Thus,
careful selection of the microalgal strain or species References
isnecessary. 1. N Dayan and L Kromidas, Formulating, packaging and marketing
of natural cosmetic products, John Wiley & Sons, Inc, NJ USA
Future Outlook 16-17 35 (2011)
2. www.cadexco.bo/ (Accessed July 4, 2015)
Fatty acids are used in cosmetics for a range of
3. A Zielinska and I Nowak, CHEMIK 68 103-110 (2014)
different applications, their main purposes being
4. Y Chisti, Trends Biotechnol 26 126-131 (2008)
to cleanse, protect and improve the appearance of
5. EW Becker, Microalgae: Biotechnology and microbiology,
skin.3, 9 Currently, plant oils are the primary source of Cambridge University Press, Cambridge UK (1994)
these fatty acids.2 However, microalgae can provide 6. IA Guschina and JL Harwood, Prog Lipid Res 45 160-186
an alternative source without competing for valu- (2006)
able resources.4 To use microalgae on a commercial 7. K Tsukahara and S Sawayama, J Jpn Petrol Inst 48 251-259
(2005)
scale, though, three important factors must be
8. Q Hu, M Sommerfeld, E Jarvis, M Ghirardi, M Posewitz, M
considered: the algal species, the growth conditions Seibert and A Darzins, Plant J 54 621639 (2008)
and the fatty acids desired. These criteria will enable 9. JS Jellinek, Formulation and function of cosmetics, Wiley
the identification of an algal species with high fatty Interscience, NY USA (1970)
acid productivity as a viable commercial source of 10. N Hempel, I Petrick and F Behrendt, J Appl Phycol 24 1407-
1418 (2012)
cosmetic fatty acids.
11. CJ Zheng, JS Yoo, TG Lee, HY Cho, YH Kim and WG Kim,
The use of algae within the cosmetics industry is FEBS Lett 579 51575162 (2005)
small relative to plant products within the cosmet- 12. E Skrivanov, M Marounek, G Dlouh and J Kanka, Lett Appl
ics industry, but continuing research and growing Microbiol 41 7781 (2005)
market demand is changing this.2 To advance the 13. B Ouattara, RE Simard, RA Holley, GJ Piette and A Bgin, Int J
Food Microbiol 37 155-162 (1997)
position of microalgae in cosmetics, further research
14. AP Desbois and VJ Smith, Appl Microbiol Biotechnol 85 1629-
1642 (2010)
15. D Yang, D Pornpattananangkul, T Nakatsuji, M Chan, D Carson,
CM Huang and L Zhang, Biomaterials 30 60356040 (2009)
16. CR Harding, A Watkinson, AV Rawlings and IR Scott, Int J
Cosmet Sci 22 21-52 (2000)
17. L Coderch, O Lpez, A de la Maza and JL Parra, Am J Clin
Dermatol 4 107-129 (2003)
18. KR Feingold and PM Elias, Biochim Biophys Acta 1841 280294
(2014)
19. L Norln, J Invest Dermatol 117 830-836 (2011)
20. M Machado, MR Bronze and H Ribeiro, J Cosmet Dermatol 6
239-242 (2007)
21. E Proksch and JM Lachapelle, J Dtsch Dermatol Ges 3 768-774
(2005)
22. I Lang, L Hodac, T Friedl and I Feussner, BMC Plant Biol 11 124
(2011)
23. J Rogers, C Harding, A Mayo, J Banks, and A Rawlings, Arch
Dermatol Res 288 765770 (1996)
24. SK Kim, YD Ravichandran, SB Khan and YT Kim, Biotechnol
Bioproc E 13 511-523 (2008)
25. EJ Kim, XJ Jin, YK Kim, IK Oh, JE Kim, CH Park and JH Chung,
JDermatol Sci 57 19-26 (2010)
26. Z Cohen, A Vonshak and A Richmond, J Phycol 24 328-332
(1988)
27. FM Van Dolah, Environ Health Persp 108 133-141 (2000)
C&T Online
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Research | C&T
The Unidentified Role of Sunscreen in

Treating Hyperpigmentation
Taking on a New Responsibility
Sparsha Saxena and
Howard I. Maibach, M.D.
University of California, San Francisco, California, USA
H
yperpigmentation is a disorder characterized by an overproduction of
KEY WORDS melanin in the skin. Common hyperpigmentation disorders include,
but are not limited to, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,
hyperpigmentation melasma and solar lentigines.1
sunscreen efficacy Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation typically results from inflamma-
clinical trial tion, e.g. it is caused by acne or skin injury, and it occurs most frequently
hydroquinone azelaic with patients of Fitzpatrick skin types IV-VI.1 Melasma is characterized by
acid ascorbic acid patches of discolorationtypically facialas a result of pregnancy-related
niacinamide retinol hormonal changes, oral contraceptives or sun exposure.2
Pathak et. al., hypothesizing that sun exposure exacerbates hyperpig-
mentation, showed ultraviolet (UV) irradiation appeared to cause cellular
injury, leading to an increased synthesis of proteins, melanosomes and
ABSTRACT
tyrosinase that ultimately yielded new melanin.3
What is sunscreens Due to sunlights influence in hyperpigmentation, sunscreen is a
role in treating common part of treatment in clinical trials. Sunscreen is used for photo-
hyperpigmentation? We protection not only for hyperpigmentation, but for preventing sunburn,
ran clinical trials using photocarcinogenesis, photoimmunosuppression and photoaging.4
depigmenting agents Two common forms of sunscreen, chemical and physical, mechanisti-
cally protect the skin in similar ways. In chemical sunscreens, chemicals
and sunscreen to assess
such as avobenzene or oxybenzene absorb UV light of certain energies.
sunscreens treatment Physical sunscreens use zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which also absorb
purpose. We then electrons of UV light within their electronic structure.4
surveyed study design, Sunscreen Protection Factor (SPF) provides a quantitative value on the
objective, intervention, effectiveness of a sunscreen formulation. By definition, it is the minimal
how investigators erythema dose in sunscreen-protected skin. The SPF indicates UVB
utilize sunscreen and protectionagents in sunscreen provide maximum absorption in the
measurements of efficacy UVB spectrum.4
In 1983, Vasquez et. al. showed in a double-blinded trial of sunscreen for
to further the findings.
melasma treatment that 96% of patients showed improvement in hyper-
pigmentation when using sunscreen, in contrast to 81% of patients using
a placebo. The trial established sunscreens potentially beneficial role in
treating hyperpigmentation.5
Save to
Numerous clinical trials utilize sunscreen as a part of treatment when
My Library
investigating hydroquinone, azelaic acid and niacinamides effects as
depigmenting agents. Our objective was to understand the role sunscreen

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Research | C&T
plays in the treatment of hyperpigmentation through agents against therapy, placebo and/or sunscreen.
revisiting clinical trials. Forty studies were examined in total: 22 for hydro-
quinone, five for ascorbic acid, one for azelaic acid,
Methods five for niacinamide and seven for retinol. Thirty-one
The primary topical depigmenting agents of the 40 trials used sunscreen as part of the treat-
studied were hydroquinone, azelaic acid, ascorbic ment: 20 for hydroquinone, three for ascorbic acid,
acid, niacinamide and retinol and its derivatives. zero for azelaic acid, three for niacinamide, and five
For published studies, we conducted a systematic for retinol. Eight of the 40 studies used sunscreen
literature search on Medline, using search strings comparatively: Three for hydroquinone, one for
of depigmenting agents, i.e. hydroquinone and the ascorbic acid, zero for azelaic acid, three for niacina-
term clinical trial. Included clinical studies were mide, and one for retinol.
limited to January 2009 to the present (primo July For comparative trials, number of patients
2014), written in English, which had 10 or more ranged from 33 to 207. Duration of trials ranged
human participants. from eight to 16 weeks; and five of eight trials were
double-blinded. For studies providing information
on sunscreen, SPF ranged from 15 to 30; two trials
Due to sunlights emphasized the reapplication of sunscreen. Measure-
ments included investigator and patient evaluations,
influence in MASI scores, mexameter and chromameter measure-
ments and digital photography. Six trials reported
hyperpigmentation, statistically significant results.
The comparative trials we looked into tested an
sunscreen is a common agent and sunscreen against either a placebo and/
or sunscreen. Of eight comparative trials using
part of treatment in sunscreen, four were conducted by using agent and
clinical trials. sunscreen versus placebo and sunscreen, two used

agent, therapy and sunscreen versus placebo, therapy
and sunscreen, one used agent and sunscreen versus
a control lotion (sunscreen use in control group was
For published trials, we narrowed down to not specified), and one used agent and sunscreen
those that were comparative, i.e. sunscreen versus versus sunscreen.
depigmenting agent or sunscreen versus placebo, to
understand sunscreens role in hyperpigmentation Discussion
treatment. Since most studies for hyperpigmentation utilize
We examine study design, objective, intervention, sunscreen, we wanted to understand its efficacy for
how investigators use sunscreen, measurements of treating hyperpigmentary disorders.
efficacy and results. To understand sunscreens independent role in
treatment, we examined the comparative studies,
Results which in some form separated sunscreen from
Table 1 provides an overview of methods for pub- the depigmenting agent either through using it in
lished comparative clinical trials using depigmenting placebo treatment or agent on its own.
Vasquez et. al. in 1983 performed a study
establishing a relationship between sunscreen as a
Market Intelligence beneficial addition or treatment to hyperpigmenta-
tion.5 This trial, however, took place more than 20
nA recent study of German and Chinese women years ago. While it did show that sunscreen improved
linked gases from air pollution to the formation of hyperpigmentation, it lacked statistical significance
dark spots on skin that are known as lentigenes. testing. Therefore, we looked toward current tri-
als to understand sunscreens impact on treating
hyperpigmentation.
n The study showed exposure to nitrogen dioxide
Because of the comparative study setupagent
was associated with more lentigenes on the
and sunscreen versus placebo and/or sunscreenin
cheeks in both groups of women, specifically those
these trials, its difficult to come to a conclusion on
who were over the age of 50.
the efficacy of sunscreen, placebo, or depigmenting
Source: GCI (www.GCImagazine.com) agent (and in some cases, the systemic therapy).
Based on our results, we cannot say with

Table 1. Comparative Studies Using Sunscreen
Type of
Notes on Measurements and
Study Design Comparative Intervention
Sunscreen Usage Results
Study Objective
Group 1: 0.05%
tretinoin, 4%
Agent,
hydroquinone
35 systemic Investigator and
(HQ), Intense
participants therapy, and participant
Woodhall Pulsed
90 days sunscreen evaluation showed
et.al. Light (IPL) None
Randomized, versus a significant
20096 therapy, and
observer- systemic improvement
sunscreen
masked therapy and in Group 1 (p0.05)
Group 2: IPL
sunscreen
therapy and
sunscreen
Group 1: Measurements
56 Drug (oral included MASI
participants Agent and procyanidin scores, evaluations,
8 weeks sunscreen and vitamins Reapplication and mexameter
Handog
Randomized, versus A, C, and of sunscreen readings. MASI
et. al.
double- placebo E) and was score showed
20097
blinded, and sunscreen emphasized significant
placebo- sunscreen Group 2: improvement in
controlled Placebo and both groups
sunscreen (p<0.0001)
Measurements
33 Group 1: 1.2% Both groups included
participants clindamycin used SPF 30. chromameter and
Agent and
12 weeks phosphate, There was an investigator
sunscreen
Callender Randomized, 0.025% emphasis evaluations.
versus
et. al. double- tretinoin and on using Study was not
placebo
20128 blinded, sunscreen sunscreen due significantly
and
placebo- Group 2: to a noted risk powered to achieve
sunscreen
controlled Placebo and of sunburn with statistical
sunscreen retinoid use. significance for
efficacy.
188 Group 1: 4%
Measurements
participants niacinamide
included digital
10 weeks Agent and and 2%
photography and
Double- sunscreen N-acetyl
Kimball investigator
blinded, versus glucosamide
et. al. SPF 15 evaluation. Group
vehicle- placebo and
20109 1 showed a
controlled, and sunscreen
significant
full-face, sunscreen Group 2: placebo
improvement
parallel- product and
(p<0.05).
group sunscreen
Continued on Page 42

Research | C&T
Table 1. Comparative Studies Using Sunscreen (continued)
Type of
Notes on Measurements and
Study Design Comparative Intervention
Sunscreen Usage Results
Study Objective
Measurements
Group 1: 2%
included
42 women niacinamide,
investigator
8 weeks Agent and 2% TXA
evaluation,
Randomized, sunscreen (Regederm
Lee mexameter and
prospective, versus RX White)
et. al. SPF 15 chromameter
double- placebo and
201410 measurements.
blinded, and sunscreen
Group 1 showed
vehicle- sunscreen Group 2:
a significant
controlled Placebo and
improvement
sunscreen
(p<0.05).
Measurements
207
Group 1: 4% taken from
participants
niacinamide, chromameter and
10 weeks Agent and
Jerajani 0.5% mexameter. It
Randomized, sunscreen
et. al. panthenol, None states there is
double- versus
201011 sunscreen, a significant
blinded, placebo*
and glycerol reduction, however
vehicle-
Group 2: placebo no p-value is
controlled
provided.
Group 1: 4%
HQ, 0.05%
50
tretinoin, Melanin level
participants Agent,
0.01% measurements
13 weeks therapy,
fluocinolone showed both
Randomized, and
Hexsel acetonide, groups had a
prospective, sunscreen
et. al. cryotherapy None significant
controlled, versus
201412 and (p<0.0001)
investigator- therapy
sunscreen reduction in
blinded, and
Group 2: melanin levels and
single-center sunscreen
cryotherapy solar lentigines.
and
sunscreen
55
participants
who
received
upper facial Measurements
treatment Group 1: 4% included
with HQ, 0.05% investigator and
Agent and
Schlessinger botulinum tretinoin and participant
sunscreen
et. al. toxin Type A sunscreen None evaluations. Results
versus
201113 120 days Group 2: showed Group 1
sunscreen
Randomize, sunscreen had a significant
multicenter, improvement
investigator- (p0.05).
masked,
parallel-
group study
*Sunscreen use was not specified.

certainty how effective sunscreen is in the treatment trolled trial of oral procyanidin with vitamins A, C, E for melasma
among Filipino women. International Journal of Dermatology,
of hyperpigmentation. 48(8), 896901. doi:10.1111/j.1365-4632.2009.04130.x
Ideally, studies that perform a double-blinded, 8. Callender, V. D., Young, C. M., Kindred, C., & Taylor, S. C.
randomized, comparative study of depigmenting (2012). Efficacy and Safety of Clindamycin Phosphate 1.2% and
Tretinoin 0.025% Gel for the Treatment of Acne and Acne-
agent versus placebo versus sunscreen would help induced Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation in Patients with
clinicians understand efficacy independently. From Skin of Color. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology,
there, seeing if using sunscreen in conjunction with 5(7), 2532. Retrieved from http://www.pubmedcentral.nih.gov/
articlerender.fcgi?artid=3396458&tool=pmcentrez&rendertype=a
depigmenting agents improves efficacy is another bstract
step. Studies addressing sunscreens efficacy in treat- 9. Kimball, A. B., Kaczvinsky, J. R., Li, J., Robinson, L. R., Matts,
ing hyperpigmentation are welcomed. P. J., Berge, C. A., Bissett, D. L. (2010). Reduction in the
appearance of facial hyperpigmentation after use of moisturizers
with a combination of topical niacinamide and N-acetyl glucos-
References amine: results of a randomized, double-blind, vehicle-controlled
trial. The British Journal of Dermatology, 162(2), 43541.
1. Baumann, L., Rodriguez, D., Taylor, S. C., & Wu, J. (2006).
doi:10.1111/j.1365-2133.2009.09477.x
Natural considerations for skin of color. Cutis, 78(6 Suppl), 219.
Retrieved from http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17354519 10. Lee, D. H., Oh, I. Y., Koo, K. T., Suk, J. M., Jung, S. W., Park,
J. O., Choi, Y. M. (2014). Reduction in facial hyperpigmenta-
2. Cestari, T., Arellano, I., Hexsel, D., & Ortonne, J. P. (2009).
tion after treatment with a combination of topical niacinamide
Melasma in Latin America: options for therapy and treat-
and tranexamic acid: a randomized, double-blind, vehicle-
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of International Society for Bioengineering and the Skin (ISBS)
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[and] International Society for Digital Imaging of Skin (ISDIS)
3. PATHAK, M. A., RILEY, F. C., & FITZPATRICK, T. B. (1962). [and] International Society for Skin Imaging (ISSI), 20(2), 20812.
Melanogenesis in human skin following exposure to long-wave doi:10.1111/srt.12107
ultraviolet and visible light. The Journal of Investigative Dermatol-
11. Jerajani, H. R., Mizoguchi, H., Li, J., Whittenbarger, D. J., &
ogy, 39, 43543. Retrieved from http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/
Marmor, M. J. (n.d.). The effects of a daily facial lotion contain-
pubmed/13941837
ing vitamins B3 and E and provitamin B5 on the facial skin of
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doi:10.1046/j.1529-8019.2001.01027.x doi:10.4103/0378-6323.58674
5. Vzquez, M., & Snchez, J. L. (1983). The efficacy of a broad- 12. Hexsel, D., Hexsel, C., Porto, M. D., & Siega, C. (2014). Triple
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(2009). Benefits of using a hydroquinone/tretinoin skin care 13. Schlessinger, J., Kenkel, J., & Werschler, P. (2011). Further
system in patients undergoing intense pulsed light therapy for enhancement of facial appearance with a hydroquinone
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Chan, G. P. (2009). A randomized, double-blind, placebo-con-

Testing | C&T
Supporting Claims for

Rub-resistant Sun Protection
Elise Delamour, Sbastien Miksa,
Dominique Lutz and Cline Guy
HelioScreen Labs, Creil, France
T
oday, more and more consumers are concerned about the harm-
KEY WORDS ful effects of the sun, particularly the risks of UV exposure. Indeed,
excessive UV exposure causes sunburn, which is the bodys signal to
rub resistance textile limit exposure and may also be responsible for undesirable effects such as
in vitro sunscreen premature skin aging, skin cancer and other damage.
rubbing reproducibility While the most effective protection is to reduce UV exposure altogether,
repeatability this is not a global solution. Humans need some UV exposurethe devil
is in the dose. Sometimes UV exposure is excessive due our way of life,
as people often rush out to enjoy warmer summer weather and get a tan.
Fortunately, there is a general trend for using appropriate protective and
preventative measures thanks to increasing global awareness campaigns
about sun protection. To this end, the best options are fabrics to block UV
ABSTRACT
exposure and sun care products.
Todays consumers desire Concerning the latter, sunscreens with the well-known sun protection
sunscreens that are not factor (SPF) for UVB (290 nm to 320 nm) are used. Emphasis on UVA
only more effective against protection (320 nm to 400 nm) also has increased, in conjunction with
UV radiation, but also maintaining overall broad spectrum activity. Furthermore, consumers
provide water, sand, sweat now require traditional sun protection with improved esthetics and added
benefits including water resistance and other resistance factors.
and rub resistance. These
Following this need, the present authors sought to develop a new in vitro
authors propose a new in UV test to reliably determine the rub resistance of sun care products. The
vitro test to assess and resulting Rub Resistance Factor indicates whether a sunscreen is still effec-
compare rub resistance tive after being rubbed with a textile.1 For example, if users dry themselves
factors, which they with a towel or apply clothing, it is worth evaluating whether the sunscreen
illustrate here by testing they applied still provides enough protection. This new in vitro test is also
20 sun care products. marketable, and provides a strong label claim for sunscreen manufacturers to
make on sun care products.
Twenty sun care products and several textiles and conditions were tested
in the present study. The method and results obtained are described herein.
Materials and Methods

Sun care products: As noted, for this study, twenty commercial sun-
Save to
screens marketed by different companies were tested. The products had
My Library
different textures and provided varying levels of protection ranging from SPF
6 to 50+, per the 2006 European Recommendation on sunscreenclaims.2

Substrate selection: The roughness of test and in vivo sunscreen tests, before performing the
substrates has been shown to affect the reproducibil- real rubbing test, the textile was presaturated with
ity of UV in vitro tests.3-5 Thus, molded polymethyl the sunscreen product being tested. Indeed, the
methacrylate (PMMA) platesa were used for the presaturation step reduces the cream absorption by
present study. The application area measured 47 mm the textile, leading to better reproducibility. During
x 47mm, i.e., more than 22 cm, and only one face of the automated textile rubbing, the pressure, speed
the plates was rough. All surface topography param- and time were predefined and controlled by the
eters were controlled with an ad hoc profilometer robotsoftware.
and were in total compliance with the specifications Transmittance measurements: The evaluation of
described in the ISO 24443:2012 standard for in vitro sun care product absorbance was performed using
UVA-PF determination.6 a spectrophotometerd. Before measurements, the
Sunscreen application: Sunscreens were shaken transmittance analyzer was calibrated according to
to assure good homogenization, then applied to the the ISO 24443:2012 Annex A by wavelength accu-
PMMA substrates at a rate of 1.3 mg/cm in nine racy linearity and dynamic test, using a calibrated
areas using a 1-mL syringe. Immediately following, reference standarde to which UV filters were added.
the sunscreen was spread using an automated device. Furthermore, blank transmissions were created using
Automated spreading: The automated spreading PMMA plates covered with glycerin.
deviceb used is composed of two parts. The first is a Measurements of the test samples were taken in
robotic arm, which performs precise and repeatable the UVA and UVB wavelength range, from 290nm
movementsparticularly circular and linear strokes to 400 nm, in 1-nm increments. Transmittance
with controlled pressure. The second part is a tool measurements were repeated before and after the
with a hard surface that simulates the human finger. automated textile rubbing, to compare the impact of
This combination perfectly imitates human spreading rubbing on the products.
with better reproducibility, as was previously demon-
strated.7 After spreading, samples were allowed to dry Rub Resistance Calculations
and settle for 15 min, during which the temperature Before calculating a sunscreens RRF, it is impor-
of surface substrates and products were maintainedc tant to calculate the in vitro SPFii.e., the individual
at 25C 2.0C.8 SPF for each plate to which product is applied. For
Textile selection: Fabric generally is conditioned each test and sunscreen, three plate replicates were
at least 24 hr before analysis in a metrology labora- used. Thanks to the combination of UV light attenu-
tory. Here, the fabric was acclimated to and testing ation by the sunscreen, plus the erythema action
was conducted at a temperature of 20C 2C and spectrum, plus the relevant solar emission spectrum,
65% 4% relative humidity, per ISO 139:2005. it is possible to calculate the in vitro SPFi according to
Textile features were assessed, including: any shrink- Equation 1.9
age; the mass per unit length of twists in the threads;
the number of horizontal and vertical threads per = 400 nm
centimeter, i.e., warp/weft fill for fabric, or row/col- E() I() d
umn for knitting; the fabric weight; the weave of the = 290 nm
fabric; and the thickness of the fabric. In vitro SPFi = _____________________ Eq. 1
In this study, 14 different textiles were used. = 400 nm
Features such as composition, thickness, basis weight E() I() 10-Ai() d
and account warp/weft are described in Table 1. To = 290 nm
determine a sunscreens rub resistance, it was impor-
tant to test different textiles to set the parameters of Here, E() is the relative effectiveness of UVR
the method and select the best textile to use. in producing erythema in human skin according
Automated textile rubbing: A part was previously to the erythema action spectrum (CIE-1987) at
developed by means of a 3D printer (see Figure 1 on wavelength; I() is the spectral irradiance received
Page 36), which for the present study was fixed onto from the UV source at wavelength in midday,
the robotic arm of the automated spreader in place of midsummer global irradiance at 40N (Wm-2nm-1);
the finger simulator tool (see Figure 2 on Page 36). d() is the wavelength step, equal to 1 nm in this
It was used to perform reproducible, circular move- study; and A() is the monochromatic absorbance
ments on the surface substrates to imitate the rubbing of the sunscreen layer at wavelength , where A()=
of clothes or a towel on the samples. log[T()].
Based on the same principle as the in vitro
d
Labsphere UV-2000S transmittance analyzer, Labsphere Inc.
a
Helioplate HD6, b HD-Spreadmaster and c HD-Thermaster, HelioScreen e
Helioplate HD0, HelioScreen

Testing | C&T
Rub resistance rationale: Here it is important to Thus, the in vitro SPFi was calculated before and
consider two principal ways for claiming a product after rubbing to determine the individual percentage
is rub resistant. These are based on the rationale of rub resistance (%Rubi) for each individual sub-
for the official water resistance claim.10-12 First, one strate according to Equation 2.
can simply label the SPF after rub resistance tests
are performed. Alternatively, a product can be (SPFi after rubbing - 1)
considered rub resistant (%Rub) if the value for the %Rubi = ___________________ 100 Eq. 2
90% lower unilateral confidence limit of SPF after (SPFi before rubbing - 1)
rubbing is greater than or equal to 50% of SPF before
rubbing. This second option was used for the present The percentage of rub resistance retention (%Rub)
study, since it is assumed to be more reliable than can be expressed as the arithmetic mean of the n
an absolute value for expressing such a property. individual %Rubi values (mean %Rubi), minus the
Sometimes, the %Rub value exceeded 100.0% due to 90% unilateral confidence interval for the mean
a better repartition of the product over the substrate %Rub (expressed by d). This is shown in Equation 3.
during the textile rubbing. Consequently, the SPF
after rubbing could be higher than before rubbing. In %Rub = [mean %Rubi d] Eq. 3
this case, the %Rub value retained was 100.0% and
SPF value noted as being superior. Further, Equation 4 shows the calculation for d.
Table 1. Features of the 14 Textiles
Thickness Account on 1 cm Basis

Sample Composition Origin Coloring Weight
(mm) Warp Weft (g/m)
50% Cotton, 50%
Polyester Vegetable /
A White 0.2 48 34 190
Synthetic
(50%CO - 50%PES)
B 100% Acrylic (PAN) Synthetic Brown 0.6 26 12 215
100% Polyester
C Synthetic Red 0.5 15 15 260
(PES)
D 100% Cotton (CO) Vegetable Red 0.3 26 26 150
E 100% Cotton (CO) Vegetable Burgundy 0.5 30 12 235
F 100% Cotton (CO) Vegetable Red 1.6 6 6 630
G 100% Lin (FLAX) Vegetable Natural 0.5 14 14 275
100%Polypropylene
H Synthetic Red 0.65 12 8 255
(PP)
100% Polyamides
I Synthetic Grey 0.3 24 195
(PA)
100% Chloride of
J Synthetic Transparent 0.15 205
polyvinyl (PVC)
90% Cotton 10%
Polyester Vegetable /
K White 1.6 8 8 450
Synthetic
(90%CO - 10%PES)
92% Viscose, 8%
L Elastane Synthetic Pink 0.5 20 20 245
(92%VI - 8%EA)
100% Polyester
M Synthetic Green 0.2 30 30 125
(PES)
100% Polyester
N Synthetic Brown 2 12 12 300
(PES)

deviation; and n is the total number of measurements
tu s in the testequal to 3 replicates, in this case.
d = _____ Eq. 4 The coefficient of variation (%CV) or relative
(n)1/2 standard deviation of the analytical results also is
calculated to compare the dispersion or variation in
Here, tu is the t value from the one-sided groups of measurements. This is expressed by the
students t distribution table at a probability level p = ratio of the standard deviation, s, to the mean %Rubi
0.10, with n-1 degrees of freedom; s is the standard and multiplied by 100 to convert it to a percentage of
the average (see Equation 5). Although
the acceptance criteria may be widened
Figure 1. Drawing of the piece in 3D created for the in some instances, in this case, the
automated textile rubbing (mm) acceptable precision was 20%.
s
%CV = _________ 100 Eq. 5
Mean %Rubi
Parameters
Influencing Rubbing
To determinate the Rub Resistance
Factor of a sunscreen, analyses of the
parameters influencing the automated
textile rubbing were performed. Twenty
sunscreen products were tested using
two different pressures, two different
speeds and for two different durations
using the same textile, D, to establish
the optimum test conditions.
For dermal safety, we assumed
Figure 2. Piece fixed on the robotic arm during to mimic the pressure used during
the automated textile rubbing self-drying with a towel. This led to an
estimation of 4N 1N, where N refers
to Newtons. Therefore, in this study, the
low pressure was 4N 1N and the high
pressure, 8N 1N. The low speed was
equal to 0.03 m/s and the high speed,
0.08 m/s; and the low/shorter rubbing
time was 1min; the high/longer, 2 min.
Table 2 and Figure3 represent the
mean %Rub and %CV for all products
according to Low and High parameters.
Pressure: The first parameter tested
was pressure. The other parameters,
i.e., textile, speed and rubbing duration,
were fixed. Figure 3 on Page 38 shows
a clear decrease in the mean percentage
of rub resistance when the pressure
was high. This matches the hypothesis
that a textile in more contact with the
sunscreen leads to less rub resistant
sunscreen. Furthermore, in the Table 2,
the mean percentage of rub resistance
for all products nearly doubled with low
pressure compared to high pressure;

Testing | C&T
respectively a mean %Rub equal to 69.9% and 35.6%. In this case, the differences were more significant.
Moreover, sixteen products were considered Also, the results showed the importance of rubbing
rub resistant with the low pressure whereas only duration. Since the lower rubbing time was less selec-
six were with the high pressure. These results show tive, the higher rubbing time was used for the rub
the importance of pressure during the automated resistance testing.
textile rubbing. Since the high pressure test was too Speed: The last parameter analyzed was speed.
selective, low pressure was chosen to perform rub Once again, the other parameters were fixed. As
resistance tests. shown in the Table 2, the mean percentage of rub
Duration: The second parameter was rubbing resistance with low speed was similar to the mean
duration, and as in the previous test, the other for high speed; respectively 69.9% and 77.6%.
parameters were fixed. As shown in Figure 3, a Furthermore, sixteen products were considered rub
slight decrease in rub resistance of almost 10% was resistant when the rubbing speed was low or slow,
observed with longer rubbing duration. However, compared with seventeen products with the high or
according to Table 2, ten sun care products were fast speed. This slight difference between the two is
considered rub resistant with the higher rubbing well-illustrated in Figure 3. Thus, the slow rubbing
time, whereas sixteen products were with the lower speed was chosen in accordance with all conditions,
rubbing time. i.e., low pressure and high rubbing time.
Table 2. Results Obtained for the Parameters Influencing Rubbing
Protocol 1 2 3 4
Pressure Low Low Low High
Speed Low Low High Low
Time of rubbing Low High Low Low
Products %Rub %CV %Rub %CV %Rub %CV %Rub %CV
P1 52.3 12.7 41.2 10.1 61.5 7.1 15.6 17.0
P2 83.8 23.7 65.8 19.6 91.3 2.2 35.2 1.4
P3 47.9 7.4 41.2 6.0 58.4 0.7 22.1 9.5
P4 78.9 1.5 63.6 1.9 94.6 3.6 28.4 4.0
P5 61.0 8.9 49.2 3.7 82.1 3.0 15.2 9.2
P6 100.0 3.1 100.0 4.2 100.0 5.6 100.0 2.0
P7 70.8 6.5 35.0 20.3 70.9 3.0 8.7 3.0
P8 74.0 5.3 44.4 0.1 84.9 0.3 9.7 5.3
P9 100.0 12.5 100.0 1.9 100.0 3.8 90.8 0.4
P10 40.7 1.1 36.8 8.4 44.0 9.6 21.9 14.0
P11 81.3 18.9 94.0 10.5 100.0 9.1 60.9 21.6
P12 41.0 8.1 22.1 8.1 39.1 20.3 9.4 1.6
P13 85.4 5.9 72.4 3.1 100.0 1.6 33.3 11.3
P14 77.8 0.3 58.8 9.2 70.5 4.4 37.8 4.0
P15 100.0 4.0 100.0 0.03 100.0 2.5 58.3 1.8
P16 50.4 4.5 34.1 3.7 50.8 5.5 15.0 3.2
P17 81.6 4.4 74.1 6.0 98.7 7.3 50.1 5.4
P18 54.0 2.0 37.5 3.8 71.6 9.7 27.6 2.9
P19 34.4 2.2 32.7 1.2 34.2 0.9 20.1 1.4
P20 82.5 4.5 77.1 4.4 100.0 1.3 51.7 4.5
Mean 69.9 6.9 59.0 6.3 77.6 5.1 35.6 6.2

Testing | C&T
Figure 3. Mean %Rub of testing products according to pressure, speed and

duration time of rubbing
Textiles: Beyond pressure, time and speed, dif- comprising 90%CO and 10%PES, had mean %Rub
ferent textiles were tested. For this purpose, the 20 values of ~82.2% and ~21.0%, respectively. Moreover,
products were tested using 14 textiles (see Table1) even with the same composition, different %Rub can
according the determined conditionsi.e., low pres- be obtained. This was the case with the 100% CO
sure, low speed and high rubbing duration. Based on composition of textiles E and F, which respectively
these results, shown in Table 3, the best textile for the had a mean %Rub of about 66.9% and 24.4%.
new rub resistance in vitro test was chosen based on Thus, it was difficult to identify whether one
three criteria. component was better than another, since several
First, the textile must exhibit a significant degree compositions (textiles B, D, E and L) gave a %Rub
of selectivity; i.e. the percentage of products deemed between 50% and 70%. These were composed of
rub resistant should be between 50% and 70%. cotton, polyester and a mix of viscose and elastane.
Second, the textile should have standardized features The other compositions, however, were too selective
such as a composition with only one or two compo- or not selective enough for this test. The authors
nents. For this purpose, it was important to analyze therefore concluded the textile composition selected
the influence of textile features, i.e., composition, for important for the test, but showed no general
thickness, weight and netting, on the percentage trend. Beyond composition, however, other features
of rub resistance. Finally, the results yielded must of the textile were deemed important.
be repeatable and reproducible under the other Thickness and weight influence: First, the
setconditions. relationship between %Rub and textile thickness or
basis weight were analyzed; these are shown, respec-
Textile Composition and Traits tively, in the graphs of Figures 5 and 6. Although a
Based on the first criterion to determine the best continuous decrease in rub resistance was observed,
textile for the rub resistance test, i.e., a mean %Rub depending on the thickness or basis weight param-
between 50% and 70%, it was interesting to demon- eter, the %Rub seemed to reach a minimum level and
strate that the textile really is important. Indeed, as remain almost constant over the maximum respective
shown in Figure 4 on Page 41, great variability in feature. This observation could be explained by the
the %Rub between different textiles with different logic that when the textile is thicker or has a higher
compositions was observed. basis weight, the intensity of the contact is higher and
For example, textile A, made from 50% cot- thus more susceptible to the removal of sunscreens
ton (CO) and 50% polyester (PES), and textile K, from the substrates.

Table 3. Results Obtained for the Influence of the Textile During Rubbing
Textile A Textile B Textile C Textile D Textile E Textile F Textile G
Product % Rub % CV % Rub % CV % Rub % CV % Rub % CV % Rub % CV % Rub % CV % Rub % CV
P1 92.6 11.2 42.7 5.6 24.5 0.0 41.2 10.4 61.8 6.8 10.4 0.8 60.5 12.6
Vol. 131, No. 3 | April 2016

P2 72.1 4.9 53.3 8.6 35.4 4.6 65.8 19.6 77.7 5.2 8.4 22.3 100.0 17.0
P3 59.0 5.6 37.5 4.8 36.5 10.8 41.2 6.0 32.5 7.6 17.6 3.9 46.4 8.4
P4 47.5 10.6 31.7 0.8 18.0 10.3 63.6 1.9 37.4 6.0 10.0 4.6 48.0 3.6
P5 63.1 3.0 31.6 0.7 12.4 2.4 49.2 3.7 42.0 6.5 6.9 13.4 39.8 10.8
P6 100.0 4.2 100.0 4.2 100.0 5.9 100.0 4.2 100.0 19.5 95.8 0.9 100.0 2.0
P7 100.0 7.2 33.9 7.7 21.8 11.8 35.0 20.3 33.3 11.1 3.5 31.3 53.6 6.6
P8 66.1 31.5 8.8 6.7 7.1 17.3 44.4 0.1 19.0 9.2 3.1 18.1 42.7 6.0
P9 100.0 4.1 100.0 7.8 49.4 9.3 100.0 1.9 100.0 3.4 19.3 21.6 100.0 0.3
P10 83.8 0.6 51.7 16.3 55.0 6.2 36.8 8.4 100.0 5.1 49.4 1.5 74.6 2.7
P11 72.9 22.5 79.8 5.9 83.4 10.0 94.0 10.4 100.0 2.2 51.0 21.7 100.0 11.0
P12 100.0 1.7 57.5 13.5 29.8 2.7 22.1 8.1 51.6 7.6 4.5 21.6 93.4 11.8
P13 100.0 7.4 75.2 0.0 41.3 8.4 72.4 3.1 76.9 6.5 15.4 4.7 81.2 5.7
P14 94.0 4.2 76.2 6.4 64.8 0.6 58.8 9.2 87.0 6.2 22.9 30.0 75.4 1.3
P15 100.0 0.4 89.0 2.9 39.2 5.5 100.0 0.0 100.0 4.7 38.1 2.4 100.0 7.8
P16 92.4 0.6 28.0 7.7 15.4 7.7 34.1 3.7 34.4 1.6 7.0 11.8 42.1 0.2
P17 100.0 6.4 100.0 1.6 74.4 0.1 74.1 6.0 100.0 4.0 42.4 2.6 74.5 4.4
P18 68.2 15.4 41.7 5.1 34.4 6.7 37.5 3.8 61.6 5.6 24.0 1.5 66.5 1.6
P19 45.0 4.5 47.9 4.5 34.7 1.6 32.7 1.2 39.6 4.7 31.3 0.2 39.4 2.2
P20 87.4 8.5 66.5 0.7 44.1 4.0 77.1 4.4 83.8 2.9 26.1 0.9 89.1 7.6
Mean 82.2 7.7 57.7 5.6 41.1 6.3 59.0 6.3 66.9 6.3 24.4 10.8 71.4 6.2
Continued on Page 52
Cosmetics & Toiletries

| 51
Table 3. Results Obtained for the Influence of the Textile During Rubbing (continued)
Testing | C&T
Textile H Textile I Textile J Textile K Textile L Textile M Textile N
Product % Rub % CV % Rub % CV % Rub % CV % Rub % CV % Rub % CV % Rub % CV % Rub % CV
P1 31.2 0.1 60.1 1.2 64.7 13.2 5.3 3.8 28.5 11.7 33.8 7.1 15.5 1.7
52 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
P2 29.4 2.0 72.0 0.9 96.5 3.2 6.0 6.6 50.6 7.3 60.7 6.4 20.1 5.8
P3 27.2 0.0 54.9 11.0 93.3 1.4 15.0 3.9 26.1 15.1 70.5 4.6 22.2 5.9
P4 30.4 1.0 67.7 0.8 99.0 0.3 10.9 4.5 30.1 1.2 66.1 4.4 15.6 12.9
P5 33.5 2.2 81.3 0.3 99.1 0.4 8.2 8.8 50.7 2.7 67.3 0.7 17.4 0.5
P6 100.0 12.3 100.0 0.4 100.0 1.0 46.5 13.7 100.0 4.4 100.0 0.1 100.0 3.5
P7 13.0 12.1 51.4 9.2 78.1 4.1 3.0 2.4 14.4 18.3 16.2 14.1 8.3 0.5
P8 8.6 11.7 53.1 3.4 79.0 9.7 3.5 6.7 11.9 9.1 55.2 7.8 5.4 17.1
P9 70.3 13.9 97.6 2.1 100.0 0.5 13.2 14.7 100.0 0.8 81.6 0.1 52.3 11.6
P10 38.2 19.7 100.0 6.1 97.8 0.1 42.7 19.1 73.8 11.9 100.0 3.1 91.0 0.2
P11 80.1 3.1 79.2 13.1 99.7 0.4 55.4 6.4 81.6 14.0 87.0 1.3 62.3 9.8
P12 46.8 0.3 78.3 0.7 92.9 1.4 4.8 5.4 73.0 1.2 81.6 5.9 8.6 16.7
P13 51.8 4.0 96.5 2.1 97.1 1.7 15.7 5.9 64.1 4.7 89.5 0.0 36.8 1.6
P14 57.6 2.9 85.3 6.3 99.8 0.1 36.6 1.9 61.3 5.3 96.6 0.1 61.9 0.4
P15 51.1 8.5 73.4 6.9 94.8 1.7 37.2 6.1 100.0 2.4 89.5 2.5 94.0 3.2
P16 17.9 8.0 87.3 3.5 97.0 1.3 6.9 8.5 26.6 9.8 71.5 9.9 15.6 3.6
P17 66.3 9.5 100.0 4.6 100.0 0.3 38.7 4.6 90.0 2.0 90.3 2.7 68.3 12.5
P18 35.9 17.8 69.6 3.7 95.5 0.4 17.2 3.8 62.7 2.4 88.4 1.1 34.1 4.5
P19 34.3 8.4 57.8 1.2 96.0 0.8 25.4 0.4 31.2 2.6 55.8 0.4 38.0 4.7
P20 58.1 7.5 85.1 1.1 96.9 1.1 27.4 1.0 79.7 6.9 86.8 2.3 58.9 2.0
Mean 44.1 7.2 77.5 3.9 93.9 2.2 21 6.4 57.8 6.7 74.4 3.7 41.3 5.9
Vol. 131, No. 3 | April 2016

A nonlinear relationship according to a logarith- selected should have a thickness between 0.30 mm
mic regression function provided a good fit with the and 0.70mm, and a basis weight 170 g/m and 290 g/
data, with a coefficient of correlation r = 0.892 for mwhich was the case for textiles B, C, E, G, H, I
thickness and r = 0.832 for the basis weight. These and L.
indicate that thickness and basis weight of the chosen Total warp and weft influence: Second, the
textile have a real influence on the mean percentage relationship between %Rub and the total account
of rub resistance. of warp and weft, or horizontal and vertical lines
To conclude, based on the first criterion to of threads, is visualized by the curve in Figure 7.
determine the best textile for the test, the textile Contrary to previous results, an increase in the %Rub
Figure 4. The influence of textile composition on mean %Rub
Figure 5. Influence of the thickness of textiles on mean %Rub

Testing | C&T
was observed proportional to the total account of textiles tested fell within this range, as it was only the
warp and weft. Also, as before, a nonlinear relation- case for B, C, D, E and L.
ship according to a logarithmic regression function At the end of this study on the influence of textiles
provided a good fit with the data, with a coefficient of on rubbing, the fabrics selected were B, E and L,
correlation r = 0.887. as they fulfilled all the conditionscomposition,
Moreover, to obtain a mean of the percentage of thickness, basis weight and netting. In addition, they
rub resistance between 50% and 70%, the value of fell within the range of %Rub 5070%. Nevertheless,
the warp and weft had to fall between 30 and 55. Few the percentage obtained was very close to 50% for
Figure 6. Influence of the basis weight of textiles on mean %Rub
Figure 7. Influence of warp and weft on mean %Rub

textiles B and L, and due to the variability of the test, considered reproducible because the equipment used
the results could be challenged. To conclude, textile E during the application, which is frequently calibrated,
was the best option as it presented a good mean rub and the spreading and rubbing of sunscreens were
resistance percentage for the twenty products tested, standardized and performed using the automated
with an average of 66.9%. robot.
SPF Results of the Conclusion

Final Protocol Thanks to this study, the reliability of a new in
According to the previous observations and vitro test to assess the rub resistance of sun care prod-
results, the same testing conditions of
low pressure and speed, higher rubbing Table 4. SPF Results Obtained with the Final Protocol
time and use of textile E were followed.
The SPF before and after rubbing and the
%Rub are shown in Table 4. SPF before SPF after
Products %Rub
Rubbing Rubbing
Repeatability and P1 103.3 69.2 61.8
Reproducibility P2 88.6 73.2 77.7
After determining the parameters P3 11.9 4.9 32.5
influencing the automated textile rub- P4 51.1 21.1 37.4
bing and the best textile for the tests,
P5 71.9 33 42
i.e., low pressure, high rubbing duration,
low speed and textile E, the repeatability P6 4.4 >4.4 100
and reproducibility of the final method P7 90.1 34.6 33.3
were evaluated. This way, the test would P8 35.5 8.2 19
prove reliable so that any operators P9 17.6 >17.6 100
and laboratories could perform it and
P10 3.3 >3.3 100
obtain the same results using the same
P11 8.6 >8.6 100
keyparameters.
To begin, the repeatability of the final P12 90.3 51.1 51.6
method was checked by observing the P13 31.7 26.4 76.9
results collected in Table 3. Unambigu- P14 4.6 4.3 87
ously, the mean %CV being less than 10%, P15 10.1 >10.1 100
and the maximum %CV being less than
P16 28.1 10.5 34.4
15%excluding the P6 result, whose
%Rub was more than 100% conclude P17 3.6 >3.6 100
that the test is repeatable. It also confirms, P18 7 5 61.6
again, that textile E is the best choice P19 5 2.7 39.6
forrubbing. P20 3.2 2.9 83.8
In addition, in order to check the
reproducibility of the final test method,
two different products, one showing rub
resistance and the other not, were tested Table 5. Reproducibility Results
three times under the same conditions
previously selected but according to
Product Operator %Rub %CV
different operators. The results of each
individual test and total %Rub including OP1 76.9 6.5
%CV between operators are shown in OP2 75.9 3.0
P13
Table 5. OP3 66.1 10.4
With three different operators Total 72.9 8.2
performing this test, the %Rub claim OP1 34.4 1.6
was the same for both products selected,
OP2 30.3 9.2
and the total %CV inter-operator was P16
approximately 10-15%, indicating OP3 26.3 16.5
goodreproducibility. Total 30.3 13.3
To conclude, the test could be

Testing | C&T
ucts has been demonstrated. All the parameters were consumers and manufacturers. Indeed, informing
studied, particularly during the automated spreading consumers that a product is rub resistant adds value
and textile rubbing, and the different test conditions because consumers want products that are more and
were selected according to the results obtained for the more efficient.
different analyses. Conditions included: low pressure
(4N 1N), low/slow speed at 0.03 m/s and high/lon- References
ger rubbing time of 2 min. Furthermore, the textile 1. RP Stokes and BL Diffey, Intl J Cos Sci 22 329-334 (2000)
selected respects all the parameters to obtain a good 2. http://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:
degree of selectivity for the test. The textile chosen 32006H0647&from=EN (Accessed February 2015)
was E, composed of 100% cotton, having a thick- 3. L Ferrero, M Pissavini, A Dehais, S Marguerie and L Zastrow,
IFSCC 9(2) 1-13 (Apr/Jun 2006)
ness between 0.30 mm and 0.70 mm, a basis weight
4. M Pissavini, S Marguerie, A Dehais, L Ferrero and L Zastrow,
between 170 and 290 g/m, and a total warp and weft Cosm & Toil 124(9) 56-64 (Sep 2009)
between 30 and 55. 5. S Miksa, D Lutz and C Guy, Cosm & Toil 129(3) 30 (Apr 2014)
Furthermore, this study shows the new in vitro 6. ISO 24443, ISO/FDIS 24443 2011(E) (2011)
method is repeatable and reproducible, with respec- 7. S Miksa, D Lutz and C Guy, Cosm & Toil 128(10) (Oct 2013)
tively a mean coefficient of variation less than 10% 8. S Miksa, D Lutz and C Guy, Cosm & Toil 128(7) 484-494 (Jul
between the different products tested, and less than 2013)
9. BL Diffey and J Robson, J Cos Sci 40 127133 (1989)
15% according to different operators. To conclude,
10. www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/FR-2011-06-17/pdf/2011-14766.pdf
any testing laboratories and technicians could (Accessed Mar 10, 2016)
perform this test and obtain the same results if the 11. http://ris.dpmc.gov.au/2012/11/16/
testing conditions are strictly respected. australian-and-new-zealand-sunscreen-standard-asn-
Finally, in addition to being reliable, the approach zs-26042012-%E2%80%93-regulation-impact-statement-
%E2%80%93-department-of-health-and-ageing/ (Accessed Mar
is especially innovative in that the devices used are 10, 2016)
automated and no other known laboratories have 12. https://cosmeticseurope.eu/publications-cosmetics-europe-
proposed this type of in vitro test. Furthermore, association/guidelines.html?view=item&id=18 (Accessed Mar
10, 2016)
the assessment of rub resistance is a major asset for

Formulating | C&T
Consumer Friendly Sunscreens

for Maximum Compliance
Getting Their Daily Dose
NiKita Wilson, Vice President,
Sales and Innovation
Aware Products, Los Angeles, California, USA
T
he importance of daily sun protection has been preached to consum-
KEY WORDS ers so often that many can recite from memory the repercussions for
not applying sunscreen. However, we all know there are still many
daily sun protection mindsets to overcome and some people still need convincing. How do you
consumer usage get consumers to fall in line and get them to do what is good for them on a
multipurpose makeup consistent basis?
The answer is obvious, but many brands still do not get it. The aver-
age consumer does not consider sun protection as a primary benefit, so,
similar to hiding vegetables in a tasty dish to get children to eat up, brands
are utilizing consumer friendly products with desirable benefits to provide
a daily dose of sun protection.
ABSTRACT Makeup Setting Spray

Its well-known that Coola Face SPF 30 Makeup Setting Spray and Supergoop Defense
consumers do not apply Refresh Setting Mist SPF 50 are simple yet effective formulas based on
sunscreen as much or as Avobenzone for UVA protection and PVP as the fixative to set makeup.
often as needed to ensure Although these products erroneously list the ingredients alphabetically, as
opposed to descending order of predominance, alcohol is still likely to be
sun protection. These
high up on the list in order to solubilize the water-insoluble ingredients, as
everyday products help are in the Supergoop.
by the incorporation of The advantage of this product form is easy reapplication throughout the
sun protection into their day. As the consumer reaps soft focus benefits (from the silica silylate) and
formulas. makeup setting benefits, they also receive the important sun protection.
Soft Focus
This category of products is suitable for a wider variety of consum-
ers. Products in this category, like LOreal Miracle Blur Instant Smoother
Finishing Cream SPF 30 and Invisiblur Perfecting Shield SPF 30, contain
silica, which is beneficial for oily skin types. Dimethicone crosspolymer is
an elastomer with sebum-absorbing properties, which also creates a matte
Save to effect on the skin. SPF 30 products based on organic UV filters can often
My Library
be greasy or leave the skin shiny; this format is very desirable as it avoids
that effect.

Similar to hiding
vegetables in a tasty
dish to get children
to eat up, brands are
utilizing consumer
friendly products with
desirable benefits to
provide a daily dose of
sun protection.
The soft focus effect is an appealing skin care attribute
for consumers to help blur imperfections and reduce the
appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The primary benefits
lend flexibility to these sunscreens, which appeal to
everyday makeup wearers as opposed to those who prefer
a bare face.
The bottom line is, these products offer benefits that
resonate with consumerssoft focus, sebum absorption,
instant perfectionall while offering the secondary, but
essential benefit of sun protection.
Market Intelligence
n (Sun protection) has been negatively affected by
the proliferation of multifunctional skin care and
color cosmetic products, most of which now have
UV protection as one of their default functions.
n The latest projections from Euromonitor

International show Latin America fueling 62% of
(sun protection)s absolute global growth.
Source: GCI (GCImagazine.com)
C&T Webcasts
Find current and upcoming webcasts at
C&T Daily E-newsletter

Get the latest from Cosmetics & Toiletries delivered
straight to your inbox everyday!
http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/newsletter

Formulating | C&T
Incorporating Sun Protection Into

Daily Product Alters Behavior
Not Just for the
Beach Anymore
Katerina Steventon, Ph.D.
Independent Skincare Consultancy East Yorkshire, UK
T
he universal desire for a suntan continues to decrease year after year.
KEY WORDS This is due to research into the harmful effects of the sun being widely
publicized and accepted by both the public and the skin care industry.
sun protection In the European Union, sunscreen products are considered cosmetics
sunscreen spf and their effectiveness tested in vivo or in vitro to determine four effective-
factor skin cancer ness indicators: the Sun Protection Factor (SPF), the UVA Protection Factor
prevention anti-aging (PF-UVA), the SPF/PF-UVA ratio and the critical wave length. When
used correctly, sunscreen products protect us from sunburn as well as
photo-aging.
The once clear boundaries between skin care and sun-care product
categories are now less well defined; daily moisturizers contain SPF 15
protection and suntan lotions often include anti-aging claims. However, a
ABSTRACT
product for the beach will always be recognized as such, even if it contains
The boundaries between additional e.g. anti-aging ingredients; and a face care cream with SPF 20 still
skin care and sun care remains in the bathroom. Consumers will know the difference and having
have been torn down sun protection included in day care formulas is a good development, said
as consumers seek sun Karl Lintner, Ph.D., a consultant to the personal care industry.1
protection for its anti-aging
Appealing to Vanity Promotes
effects just as much as
they do its cancer-fighting
Daily Sun Protection
The decision to incorporate SPF into face creams and makeup began
aspects.
more than 10 years ago. Nowadays, SPF 15 in a day moisturizer is the norm.
However, UVA radiation also has detrimental effects on the skin; it induces
molecular, cellular and clinical damage.
Offering a wide spectrum of protection is essential as daily broad-
spectrum sunscreen can slow photo-aging in as little as four years in
middle-aged adults. Young people respond better to anti-aging than
anti-cancer messages and visual examples of aging are particularly effective
in motivating teens to avoid indoor tanning and pursue consistent sun
protection.2
Daily use of sunscreen significantly reduces lifetime UV exposure to
the face; the most important factor is to begin regular use early in life. The
Save to SPF and spectral profile of the product is of lesser importance, as is whether
My Library
daily use is confined to the summer months rather than year-round.3
Topical application of a daily moisturizer with broad-spectrum

sunscreen prevents UVA radiation-induced tran- prevention, they have not yet incorporated appropri-
scriptional expression of genes, which are directly ate sun protection measures into their daily habits.7
linked to skin aging (ie. matrix metalloproteinase
1). These genes also reflect the antioxidative stress Applying Enough?
defense response (ie. catalase, superoxide dismutase In parallel to our increased understanding of the
and glutathione peroxidase). The protection provided UVA irradiation-caused damage, advances have been
by products with different SPF, but the same UVA- made in modern sunscreen formulation. A variety of
PF is similar, which emphasizes the importance of UVA filters are now available for formulators to com-
high UVA protection to maintain unaltered essential bine with UVB filters to reach high-level photo-stable
biologic functions.4 protection, using a minimum concentration of active
ingredients. Sunscreen efficacy tests conducted in
Holiday behavior differs from vivo are done by applying the product at a rate of 2.0
day-to-day use mgcm(-2). In a real-life scenario, only the use of half
The incidence of cancer is rising with national of said amount has been reported, affecting both the
differences across Europe. Although the incidence SPF and PF-UVA, depending on the product type.8
of skin cancer is increasing, estimates reveal 45% of Sun protection is a major concern, primarily for
all preventable cancers worldwide are skin cancers. sun-seekers and outdoor workers. When estimating
The effect of the behavior on UV exposure may help skin cancer risk, a geographically-adjusted ques-
explain the higher skin cancer incidence among tionnaire to estimate self-reported cumulative UV
Scandinavians compared with other European radiation exposure can help people with higher levels
populations. of exposure seek advice on photo-protective mea-
When Danish and Spanish sun-seekers were sure.9 Further, LOreal will launch innovative patches
observed during a sun holiday in Spain, the Dan- for monitoring UVB exposure and risk of sunburn
ish sun-seekers were outdoors significantly longer, later this year.10
receiving significantly higher percentages of ambient Collaborative campaigns by healthcare authori-
and greater accumulated UV doses than Spanish ties, cancer foundations and dermatologists should
sun-seekers.5 focus on population-tailored sun-safety education
In the Scandinavian population, sun exposure programs worldwide.11
habits and the propensity to undertake sun protection
differ between individuals depending on age, gender References
and level of education. Swedish women report more 1. http://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Formulation-Science/
Having-sun-protection-included-in-day-care-formulas-is-a-
frequent sun-tanning and sunbed use, but also more good-development
extensive sunscreen use. 2. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23986171
Older age is linked to a low level of sun exposure 3. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21896139
and high level of protection. High educational levels 4. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23409485
and sensitive skin type are associated with higher 5. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26332747
readiness to increase sunscreen use; therefore sun 6. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23295002
protection advice should be personalized according 7. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22481649
to the individual patient situation and capabilities.6 8. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26806467
However, campaigns are needed to encourage sun 9. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26790927
protection as even populations with high levels of 10. http://uk.pcmag.com/consumer-elec-
tronics-reviews-ratings/74325/news/
sun exposure show a lack of care. A survey of Latin loreal-skin-patch-warns-of-impending-sunburn
Americans reported that although they are aware of 11. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23252833
the risks of excessive sun exposure and skin cancer
C&T Webcasts
Market Intelligence Find current and upcoming webcasts at
n In a recent survey in the UK by retailer

Tesco, three quarters of respondents said they
deliberately try to make a bottle of sunscreen last C&T Daily E-newsletter
longer by applying less protection than they know Get the latest from Cosmetics & Toiletries delivered
is adequate. straight to your inbox everyday!
Source: GCI (GCImagazine.com) http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/newsletter

Formulating | C&T
Skin Care
Formulary
Skin Care
Facial Energy Revitalizer
Air Products and Chemicals
Facial Energy Revitalizer leverages the oxygen delivery benefits of OxyForce cellular active to help nourish the skin. Oxygen is critical for
cellular energy, but the partial oxygen pressure of skin decreases with age. By utilizing an advanced delivery technology, OxyForce cellular
active helps to replenish oxygen levels within the skin. This can help improve the appearance of skin. This night cream is formulated to
promote skin radiance through a strong dose of oxygen that supports skin respiration and supports collagen synthesis.
Skin Care
Super Gentle Shower Gel
Biosil Technologies Inc.
This super gentle shower gel leaves the skin clean and soft to the touch. BioPlex Cetylsil S-PF significantly reduces any irritation of the
surfactant system and provides softness, moisture, and cushion making it suitable for ultra-sensitive skin.
Skin Care
Bye Redness Mist
Centerchem Inc.
Centerchems Bye Redness Mist formula includes AGASCALM and HYDROMANIL HGL MS, which are manufactured by Provital, S.A.
Centerchem, Inc. is the exclusive North American Distributor.
Skin Care
Daily Renewal Sensitive Skin Revitalizing Toner with
Phytessence Pink Pomelo EC
Croda
Daily Renewal Sensitive Skin Revitalizing Toner with Phytessence Pink Pomelo EC This non-drying toner, specially formulated for sensitive
skin, provides mild exfoliation, gentle enough for daily use. Arlasilk PLN provides light and silky emollience for a fresh and revitalized skin
feel, while Phytessence Pink Pomelo EC, an organic-certified, natural exfoliator, provides mild exfoliation without irritation, even for senstitve
skin users. Phytessence Pink Pomelo EC is clinically proven to take days off of the skin cell renewal cycle. Mildness of Phytessence Pink
Pomelo EC was assessed for sensitive skin users by a 48 hour patch test.
Skin Care
Moisturizing Bath Oil
Floratech
This bath oil creates a moisturizing bathing experience leaving the users skin soft, supple and fragrant.
Please go to CosmeticsandToiletries.com
to view formulas

Endpoint
Let There Be Light
by Rachel L. Grabenhofer
Scientific Acquisitions Editor, Allured Business Media
B
e afraid of UV, be very afraid. Experts have intensity gradually increases until 12:00 p.m. If you
done a great job in getting the message out to begin sunbathing at 2:00 p.m., the sun intensity gradu-
consumers: UV over-exposure can cause skin ally decreases. So according to our algorithm, you can
damage and lead to melanoma, so you must protect stay out longer in the afternoon than in the morning.
yourself. Yet, many sun-loving folks just want to play,
exercise or even nap outside. I guess its true the things Skin and Product Type
we love most are sometimes the worst things for us. As noted, the GPS location from the users smart
A great deal of research has gone into protecting phone gives the app its input on sun intensityby the
against the sun. Painstakingly precise measurements minute. So how does it know their skin type? Or the
have been developed to ensure products are proven products they are using?
to provide the utmost protection for the consumer. To help users figure out which skin type they are,
UV filters and photostabilizers have been created to the app asks them to choose one of five image profiles
protect against everything from UVA and UVB, to that looks the most like them, said Pissavini. Once
infrared and visible light.* Even new product forms they select the photo, they answer a question such
like gels, sprays, powders and wipes have come out to as Do you tan? with answers such as almost never,
encourage consumers to keep using sun protection. with difficulty, easily, naturally, etc. Together with the
What could possibly be next? How about giving photo, the app tells you which type you are.
consumers what they really wanttheir time in the After skin type is determined, the user enters the
sun and a nice tan, but in a safe and controlled way. SPF rating of the sunscreen they are using. Once
This exclusive interview with Marc Pissavini, Ph.D., these parameters are set, you start the timer and from
R&D director of basic research for Coty-Lancaster there, the app prompts you when you need to reapply.
Monaco, explains how the companys new smart You can respond yes or no to the prompt. If you say no,
phone app can make this happen. the next prompt will warn you that if you dont reap-
ply, you have a low, medium or high risk of burning.
Calculated Intensity As a hot button issue in sun care, the application
Lancasters message to consumers is to Dare to rate used to create these alerts and calculations was
Tan by using the new Sun Timer App, which debuts a question C&T had to ask. The quantity the user
in Europe in April 2016. While devices and apps have applies is, of course, an approximationbut the
previously been launched to help consumers time calculations are based on the actual amounts people
sunscreen reapplication and UV exposure, this app use, not on lab test levels, Pissavini noted.
has some new tricks up its sleevenamely, a big data
way to calculate an individuals exposure levels and to New Sun Messaging?
dynamically account for various factors. So it seems that long-time sun care leader Lan-
Pissavini explained, This application combines caster has a new message for consumers: The Sun
two key factors. First, it is possible to calculate the Timer lets you enjoy sun bathing while being safely
sun spectrum at any point in time, anywhere in the protected. It paints sun exposure in a new light, com-
world. While this typically is determined at noon, our pared with the cautionary approach of recent years.
algorithm creates an intensity curve that allows us to While Pissavini could not comment on this new
determine exposure by the minute. Its a lot of data, marketing message to consumers of embracing the sun
but we can then attenuate the sun spectrum based on safely, he could comment as a scientist.
the users GPS location and, secondly, relate it to the It really is possible to tan safely. This and other
product they are usingi.e., SPF 50, 25, etc. technologies weve developed, including a new full
This is the key difference, according to Pissavini. light protection formula,* make it a reality. C&T will
While other methods time UV exposure based on follow up with Lancaster on this visible light formula
SPF values and maximum sun intensity, which gives in a future interview.
a total number of hours individuals should be in the
sun before reapplication, the new app dynamically *Editors note: The company has created the Lancaster Sun Beauty range, Save to
which based on an exclusive technology, targets 100% of sun rays, including
accounts for sun intensity. UVA, UVB, visible light and infraredwhile also giving consumers a tan.
MyLibrary
If you begin sunbathing at 10:00 a.m., the sun

Advertiser Index | C&T
AAK Personal Care Grant Industries Summit Events

3 1 49
lipid@aak.com info@grantinc.com info@summit-events.com
www.aakpersonalcare.com www.grantinc.com www.summit-events.com
(insert)
AMA Laboratories, Inc. Hallstar
29 11
www.amalabs.com www.hallstar.com Sytheon Ltd.
31
info@sytheonltd.com
www.sytheonltd.com
BASF ICMAD
23 56
yvonne.specht@basf.com www.icmad.org
www.carecreations.basf.com Vantage Specialty
15
Ikeda Corp. Ingredients, Inc.
17 marketing.pc.us@vantagegrp.com
Berj, Inc. info@ikeda-america.com
13 www.vantagegrp.com
berje@berjeinc.com www.ikeda-corp.co.jp
www.berjeinc.com
Induchem USA, Inc. Vevy Europe SpA

18
5 info@vevy.com
Centerchem, Inc. www.induchem.com
C4 www.vevy.com
cosmetics@centerchem.com
www.centerchem.com
Innospec Ltd
37 Welch Holme & Clark Co., Inc.
americas-pc@innospecinc.com 27
www.welch-holme-clark.com
Clariant International Ltd. www.innospecinc.com
21
info@clariant.com
www.personalcare.clariant.com
Lubrizol Advanced
33
Materials, Inc.
Corum, Inc. www.lubrizol.com/personalcare
C3
james.lee@corum.com.tw
www.corum.com.tw
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
19
info@lucasmeyercosmetics.com
Cosmetic Valley www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com
C2
cosmetic-valley@cosmetic-valley.com
www.cosmetic-valley.com
Netzsch Incorporated
35
www.netzsch.com/gd
Covestro/Bayer
9
Materialscience AG
cosmetics@covestro.com NY SCC/Suppliers Day
39
www.baycusan.com www.nyscc.org
Evonik Sabinsa Corp.

7 57
personal-care@evonik.com info@sabinsa.com
www.evonik.com/personal-care www.sabinsacosmetics.com
Extracts & Ingredients

24
dfondots@morretec.com
www.morretec.com

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April 2016

Cover art by James Fergus

60 Not Just for the Beach Anymore:

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Editorial Audience Development

Digital/Social Media Editor Mino Zaccaro Events

Advertising Sales Show Manager Mary Richter

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Copyright 2016: Authorization to photocopy articles and news is granted by Allured

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Eric Abrutyn Luigi Rigano, Ph.D.

In a recent Q&A with Johnson & Johnson Con-

PM: We know that skin cancer is preventable when

For more insight from Prithwiraj

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Data Shows Great Growth

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Beauty Made Possible.

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Todays customers want moremore functionality, more

Stress Reducer Slimming Properties

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Balancing Sunscreen Benefits:

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Reduces the appearance of pores and

DEcrEasEs conspicuous porE sizE

Join us at in-cosmetics Paris Booth E30

SPF Tests Reveal

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GlucoTain is extra mild to hair

and March 2015, 28% reported using sun care c

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Figure 1. Different types of PMMA plate IR spectrums

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Table 2. Morphological Parameters of the Different PMMA Plate Types

Table 3. Relative Importance of Morphological Parameters

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Table 6. Contact Angle with Diiodomethane on Untreated Plates

Contact angle () Class Roughness Nature

Table 7. Contact Angle with Diiodomethane on Pretreated Plates

Contact angle () Class Roughness Nature

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Figure 4. Zeta potential in Mv according to pH for different Results:

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of spreading, product composition, and substrate

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Targets for 9-in-1 Anti-aging Solutions

Preserving Collagen Protecting Collagen

Product: Standardized edible fruit extract of Terminalia chebula; Globally approved

Cleansing, Protecting and Anti-aging:

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make it with Avalure Flex-6 polymer.

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INNOSPEC sparks a change in the development