5.

Design
5.3 Satin and Sateen Weaves
Satin and sateen weaves are characterised by the following features:
Only one binding point in each end and pick within the repeat
No continuous twill line
Smooth appearance

Satin weave is warp faced whereas sateen weave weft faced. The fabrics have very smooth and lustrous
appearance which is created by the long floats of either ends or picks.
For the construction of sateen weave, a feasible move number is chosen. Using this move number, only those
points are marked on the point paper where the end is floating over the pick. For a seven-end sateen weave,
probable move numbers are 1, 2, 3, 4, 6 and 6. The corresponding designs are shown In Figure 5.20.

Figure 5.20: Seven-end sateen with various move numbers

It is observed from the above designs that move number 1 and 6 (n-1, where n is the repeat size of the weave)
produce twill weaves. However, move numbers 2, 3, 4 and 5 produce valid sateen weaves. On a point paper,
the sateen weave (weft faced) can be converted to satin weave (warp faced) by interchanging the crosses with
blanks and vice versa. The interlacement pattern of five-end sateen is depicted in Figure 5.21.
 Figure 5.21: Five-end sateen (blue weft is at the face side)
Six-end Regular Sateen
It has been demonstrated earlier that if move number is 1 or n-1 then twill weave is produced. Here, n is the
repeat size of the design. If a six-end sateen weave is designed with move numbers of 2, 3 or 4, then the
following interlacement pattern will be produced (Figure 5.22).

Figure 5.22: Six-end sateen

In all the three cases, there are certain ends without any interlacement. Therefore, these designs are
practically not valid. Therefore, 6 end regular sateen (or satin) weave is not feasible.
Rules for Making Sateen Weave
1. Move number 1 and (n-1) cannot be used as twill weaves are produced.
2. Move number and repeat size of the design should not have any common factor.

It seems from the point paper design that a Satin fabric will become Sateen if the fabric is reversed (turned
upside down). However, practically it is not true. Because, satin fabric is warp faced and to make the effect of
the warp floates more prominent, following steps are adopted.
Use of coarser warp threads than the weft threads
Use of higher ends per inch (epi) than the (ppi)
Therefore, even if the fabric is reversed, the effect of weft threads will not be very prominent as the picks are
finer and ppi value is lower.
Some Fancy Weaves
Honeycomb
Honeycomb weave shows prominent diamond shapes on the fabrics created by the long floats of ends.
Honeycomb weave having a repeat size of 88 is shown in Figure 5.23 with drafting and lifting plan. The
design can be produced with pointed draft and thus the lifting plan resembles the left hand side of the design.
The extended view of the Honeycomb weave is shown in Figure 5.24.

Figure 5.23: Design, drafting and lifting plan of Honeycomb weave

 Figure 5.24: Extended view of Honeycomb weave
Mock Leno
In Mock leno weave, some of the ends have frequent interlacement whereas the other ends have long floats.
The fabric shows small holes created by the grouping of threads. A mock leno weave having a repeat size of
1010 is shown in Figure 5.25 along with drafting and lifting plan. Only four healds are needed as the
interlacement pattern of ends 1, 3, 5 are same and they are allocated to heald 1. Similarly, the interlacement
pattern of ends 2 and 4 are same and they are assigned to heald 2 and so on. Figure 5.26 depicts the
extended view of the Mock leno weave.
 Figure 5.25: Design, drafting and lifting plan of Mock leno weave

Figure 5.26: Extended view of the Mock leno weave

Huck-a-Back
Huck-a-back design has some similarity with Mock leno. A 1010 Huck-a-back design is shown in Figure 5.27.
If the design is divided in four quadrants, then the top-right and bottom-left corners are having similar
interlacement pattern like Mock leno. However, the remaining two quadrants have plain weave like
interlacement pattern. Therefore, some of the ends (end number 2, 4, 7 and 9) are having long floats followed
by regular interlacements. The design shown below requires four heald shafts. Figure 5.28 depicts the
extended view of the Huck-a-back weave.

Figure 5.27: Design, drafting and lifting plan of Huck-a-back weave

Figure 5.28: Extended view of the Huck-a-back weave

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