DEVELOPING NEW PATTERNS AND DESIGNS FOR THE

LOCAL WEAVING INDUSTRY IN PAOAY, ILOCOS NORTE

Lawrence A. Eclarin*, Ciriaco T. Ragual, Wilben Christie R. Pagtaconan,

Lawrence John C. Tagata, Leonila Y. Rico
Mariano Marcos State University
City of Batac, 2906 Ilocos Norte Philippines
Email: mmsu.math@gmail.com; Tel. No.:+63 77 670 2105

Abstract

Modernization affects our culture and traditions in various ways.

Industrialization and globalization have resulted to a more competitive market for
locally manufactured products. This study was conducted to aid in the development of
patterns and designs for the local weaving industry in Paoay, Ilocos Norte and
establish means to sustain the local weaving tradition. Patterns were generated using
a computer application based on a mathematical algorithm. Weaving drafts of patterns
generated were used as basis for threading and threadling counts. Surveys,
consultation meetings and training programs involving weavers and stakeholders were
conducted. New patterns were generated and used for weaving. The woven cloths
were used as materials for bags, clothing and upholstery. Challenges and problems
faced by weavers were identified which included the need for locally spun cotton.
Consultation meetings with the local weavers, bench marking with other weaving
communities and the conduct of training programs provided useful information to aid
in the sustainability of the local weaving tradition. The study establishes the
importance of research in product development and innovation. The project also
highlighted how research can help preserve our cultural heritage and formulate
solutions to problems facing local industries.

Keywords: loom weaving; pattern generation

INTRODUCTION
The Abel Iloko is an integral part of the culture and arts of the Ilokanos. Abel Iloko is a
collective term that refers to the weaving process (abel) and the woven product (inabel). Inabel are
classified into various types which employ different techniques: banderado (from the term bandera or
flag), consisting of colored stripes; binakol, with op-art swirls called kosikos; nagkudil or face-to-face,
reversible designs; sinukitan or insukit, embroidered-like designs; and others. The materials used for
weaving are mostly cotton but these can also be derived from other unlikely raw materials like
bamboo, saluyot and even seaweeds. The use of the inabel is very common in households among
Ilokanos which include rags, table mats, runners, bed sheets and pillowcases. In more recent times,
due to the ingenuity of the Ilokanos, the inabel has found its place in fashion where the fabrics are
used for designer gowns and suits, and in interior designs where inabel is used for cushions,
upholstery and others. Moreover, the continued growth of tourism in The Ilocos Region has helped in
the promotion of the inabel.

In the Province of Ilocos Norte, the municipalities of Paoay, Sarrat and Pinili are well known
places for weaving inabel. In Paoay, the Nagbacalan Loomweavers Multi-Purpose Cooperative (NLMPC)
headed by Mrs. Charito C. Cariaga is leading advocate in the promotion of Abel Iloko. The cooperative
was founded in 1992 which originally consisted of a few female weavers but now has more active
members. The cooperative supports trainings, seminars and even provides financial assistance to their
members in order to sustain the industry.
Mathematics and the Abel Iloko

The observable patterns seen in loom woven products has caught the interest of many
mathematicians. The paper of Baylas et al. (2012) presented mathematical concepts exhibited by
weaving patterns on the fabrics of the Northern Kankana-ey in the Mountain Province. In the Province
of Ilocos Norte, a study on the characterization and investigation of symmetries present in the woven
products was conducted by Ragual (2013) on the Abel Iloko.

Cabansag et al. (2014) used matrices to generate colored transitive patterns that may be used
for weaving but the results cannot be woven due to technical aspects of the loom. By applying the
results of F. Fernandez (1998) to create pleasing designs for azulejos, which are tin-glazed tiles made
in Spain and Portugal, new patterns were generated using a technique described in his paper. Pagala
et al. (2015) were able to create new patterns for the Abel Iloko using canonical matrices of prime
determinants as defined by Fernandez.

With the advent of modern technology which result to developments in product designs and
innovations, locally manufactured products face a more competitive market of global standards.
Moreover, there is waning interest in the weaving tradition among the youth as evidenced by the few
number of young weavers. The local handicraft has been defined as a dying tradition due to these
reasons and other challenges facing the industry at present (Inabel, undated.).

This study was conducted to develop new patterns and designs for the local weaving industry
which could help sustain the weaving tradition. In particular, patterns were generated for new designs,
trainings were conducted to enhance weaving techniques and promote weaving to young people, and
regular consultation meetings with local weavers were organized to identify problems and formulate
solutions.

METHODOLOGY

The study was conducted in Paoay, Ilocos Norte. The NLMPC loom weaving facility in
Nagbacalan and the loom weaving center of Mariano Marcos State University (MMSU) at the College of
Industrial Technology served as project sites for loom execution testing and final product weaving. The
study was a collaborative research between MMSU and NLMPC and used a combined R&D and D+D
research design. A mathematical algorithm was formulated to generate new patterns and a computer
application was developed to translate these to weaving drafts. The drafts were used for loom
execution and woven prototypes were evaluated for production.

Generating New Patterns and Designs

In order to create the new patterns, the following concepts were applied.
A 2x2 square matrix is an array of numbers, written in the form [ x1
y1
x2
y2 ] . The determinant of the

square matrix is given by x 1 y 2x 2 y1 . A square matrix written as [ ] a b

0 c where a,b,c

are integers, a>b 0 and c >0 is said to be in canonical form.

The net generated by a matrix in canonical form is a subset of a square grid generated by the two

linearly independent column vectors []

a
0 and []
b
c .

The following steps outline the technique employed in generating a tile pattern.

1. Set the value for the determinant n. The determinant must be a whole number.
2. Enumerate all 2x2 matrices of determinant equal to n in canonical form.
Remark: The number of such matrices is given by the sum of all positive integers that divide
n.
3. Generate the nets defined by each matrix. One can observe that the reflection of a net
generated by a matrix is similar to a net generated by another matrix.
4. Superpose the nets with their corresponding reflections.
5. A tile pattern is generated by superposing nets generated in #4.

For example, a tile and the pattern generated by superposing the nets {[ ] [ ]}
7 6 , 7 1
0 1 0 1 and

{[ ] [ ]}
7 5 7 2
,
0 1 0 1 are given in Figure 1.

(a)
 (b)

Figure 1. a) A tile and b) the pattern generated by {[ ] [ ]}

7 6 , 7 1
0 1 0 1 and {[ ] [ ]}
7 5 , 7 2
0 1 0 1

A computer application based on the mathematical algorithm was also developed which was
used to create computer printouts of weaving drafts. Loom testing was executed using the drafts and
the prototypes were evaluated prior to final production.

Training Programs

Two training workshops were organized under the study: for expert weavers and for
beginners. The training for expert weavers was a trainers training for the basic loom weaving
workshop for beginners. The training also served as venue for the initial assessment of new patterns
generated and to familiarize the weavers with the weaving drafts. The basic training for beginners was
conducted to recruit and entice young weavers. Basic steps in loom weaving and the tools used were
demonstrated.

3 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

The research project was able to document existing patterns and designs of the Abel Iloco.
The basic weaving steps were outlined and the tools needed in the craft were identified. Threading and
treadling drafts were also collected. These would help in the preservation of the weaving tradition by
providing a reference to facts and important details on weaving the Abel Iloco. Consultation meetings
and benchmarking with weavers and weaving industries in Ilocos Norte, La Union, Baguio and Bohol
were also conducted in order to formulate a strategic framework in developing the local weaving
industry. Some weaving institutions employed workers on a daily wage basis which provided steady
income to their weavers. This is possible due to the continuous orders made by costumers/consumers.
For the case of NLMPC, weavers prefer to work at home in order to do other household chores and
since orders are made on occasional basis, the cooperative is not able to support a daily wage for their
weavers. An active commercialization for locally woven products and a more visible presence in the
local/global market will greatly help to assure a steady order of the woven textile.

Based on the meetings conducted, challenges and problems faced by weavers were identified
which could help in formulating programs to aid the local weaving communities which includes the
need for a local source of raw materials for weaving. The NLMPC receives a lot of help from the local
and provincial government, government agencies like DTI, PhilFIDA and DOST, and other weaving
advocates in terms of financial aids and trainings. Other weaving communities are also supported
similarly. But still, the major concern is the need for locally spun cotton for weaving which would
greatly benefit local weavers.

In this study, twenty (20) new patterns were generated. Nine of these were used for final
production. A pattern and the woven cloth are shown in Figure 2. Contemporary designs and color
matching were employed to come up with innovative products. The woven cloths were evaluated and
assessed. On the average, all final products were rated satisfactorily. The fabricated bags, clothing and
upholstery were appreciated by participants during the product launching and had expressed interest
in buying/marketing them.

The trainings conducted aided in the production of inabel using the new patterns generated.
The training for expert weavers provided the participants useful information on various weaving
techniques, most importantly on pick-up designs which was needed in the final production of the
project. The training workshop for basic loom weaving was attended by students and were encouraged
to help promote the weaving tradition. Participants learned a lot from the trainings and were highly
evaluated. They also suggested the conduct of more trainings related to weaving.

(a)

(b)

Figure 2. a) The mystika pattern and b) the woven cloth showing the mystika pattern.
 Figure 3. Contemporary bags showcasing the new Abel patterns.

Conclusions, Research Directions and Recommendations

Modernization affects our societys culture and traditions in various ways. Industrialization and
globalization have resulted to a more competitive market for locally manufactured products. In order
to match global standards, there is a need for our local industries to improve product quality. The
collaborative research conducted by MMSU and NLMPC establishes the importance of research in
product development and innovation. The combined efforts and commitment of both collaborators was
essential in the successful implementation of project activities and achieving project objectives. The
project also highlighted how research can help preserve our cultural heritage and formulate solutions
to problems facing local industries. particularly in developing a computer application for pattern
generation which can be used for industrial design. For the weavers, the project introduced innovative
ways of generating new patterns and designs for the Abel Iloco and other means of enhancing the
handwoven products and the trainings conducted enabled them to share and discuss techniques on
weaving which could help facilitate better production.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

This research was funded by the United States Agency for International Development (USAID)
under its Science and Technology for Research Innovation and Development (STRIDE) Program. The
authors also gratefully acknowledge the use of the services and facilities of the Nagbacalan
Loomweavers Multi-Purpose Cooperative in Paoay, Ilocos Norte.
6 REFERENCES

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patterns for the Abel Iloko (Undergraduate Thesis). Mariano Marcos State University, Batac
City, Philippines
[3] Fernandez, F. (1998). A class of pleasing periodic designs. The College Mathematics
Journal: 29(1) doi: 10.2307/2687631
[4] Inabel: Modern Design from a centuries-old tradition. (n.d.). Retrieved from
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