DADDY’S POOR BOY CAP

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A FULLY WOOLLY DESIGN

SIZES:
Small,Medium - 21” finished circumference
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Large,X-Large : 24-1/2” finished circumference
NOTE: for an adult’s X-Small,knit the larger version of the child’s size hat
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MATERIALS:
Approximately 200 yards of an aran weight yarn
3 pairs of straight needles - 3.00mm,3.75mm,4.5mm or size needed to obtain gauge
Measuring tape
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Stitch markers (optional)
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TECHNIQUES AND ABBREVIATIONS:
BO - Bind off
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CO - Cast on
K - Knit
P - Purl
Garter Stitch - K on both right and wrong sides
Stocking Stitch - K on the right sides and P on the back sides
K2tog - Knit 2 together
m1 - Put the left needle from front to back through the bar located between the last stitch on the right
needle and the first stitch on the left needle. Knit through the back loop to form a new stitch.
pm - place marker
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rs - right side
ws - wrong side
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GAUGE:
17 stitches and 26 rows to a 4” square in stocking stitch with the 4.5mm needle.
NOTE: The row gauge MUST be exact to obtain a hat that will fit properly around the head. Make sure and
knit a swatch before beginning the hat. If you are getting a different row gauge than 26 rows to 4”, this
will not be a problem.
DIRECTIONS:
MEASURING FOR THE DESIRED WIDTH OF THE HAT BAND(BRIM):
Take the width around the head with the tape measure just above the ears and across the forehead.
Subtract a minimum of 2-3” to allow for the stretch in the yarn.
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With the 3.75mm needles CO 98(110) stitches. Work in garter stitch for 1”, ending with the right side facing.
INCREASE ROWS:
With the 4.5mm needles work the increase rows as follows:
Row 1(rs) : K1(m1,K8(9))x12,K1 - (110,122 stitches on needle)
Rows 2,4,6,8(ws) : Purl across the row
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Row 3(rs) : K1(pm,m1,K27(30))x4,K1 - (114,126 stitches on needle)
Row 5(rs) : K1(pm,m1,K28(31))x4,K1 - (118,130 st)
Row 7(rs) : K1(pm,m1,K29(32))x4,K1 - (122,134 st)
MEASURING FOR THE DESIRED HEIGHT OF THE CROWN OF THE HAT:
Place the measuring tape where you would like the bottom edge of the hat to sit and continue around the top
of your head and down to the opposite edge. If you like your hat super floppy just add to the amount of
stocking stitch knit from the CO edge but remember to subtract approx. 3 to 3-1/2” for the shaping
(decrease rows) of the top of the hat. If you live in a frigid climate and want to wear the hat for warmth,
measure from the bottom of one ear,over the top of your head to the other. If like me, you would rather
look “super cool” than be warm, take your measurement from above one ear,over the top, to the other ear.
For example, I get a measurement of 11” from ear to ear and allowing for about 2” of floppage, I would get a
total measurement of 13” minus the shaping rows of 3” which comes to 10”. Thus I would knit 5” of stocking
stitch from the CO edge of my hat since I am knitting both sides at once. I have added in this bit of info
because I have noticed that most of the problems arising with these types of caps is either the hat falling
down over the eyes(not advised,especially when driving:)) or the hat merely sits on the top of the head and
looks more like a beret or a “saucer”(not cool, and a bad reflection on the designer of said hat:). Okay,
finishing up……..
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After working the 8th row in Purl, continue knitting in stocking stitch until 5”(or personal measurement) from
the CO edge. Ending with the right side facing, work the decrease rows as follows:
NOTE: The number for the Large and X-large sizes will be in brackets() if differing from the M size number.
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Row 1(rs) : K1(pm,K2tog,K8(9))x12,K1 - (110,122st remain)
Rows 2(ws), and all the following wrong side rows: Purl across to the end of the row.
Row 3(rs): K1(K2tog,K7(8))x12,K1 (98,110 st)
Row 5(rs): K1(K2tog,K6(7))x12,K1 (86,98 st)
Row 7(rs): K1(K2tog,K5(6))x12,K1 (74,86 st)
Row 9(rs): K1(K2tog,K4(5))x12,K1 (62,74 st)
Row 11(rs): K1(K2tog,K3(4))x12,K1 (50,62 st)
Row 13(rs): K1(K2tog,K2(3))x12,K1 (38,50 st)
Row 15(rs): K1(K2tog,K1(2))x12,K1 (26,38)
Row 17(rs): K1(K2tog,K0(1))x12,K1 (14,26)
Row 19(rs): Large size only K1(K2tog)x12,K1 (14)
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Break off about 12” of yarn, thread onto a tapestry needle and run through the remaining 14 live stitches.
Pull the stitches tightly together and fasten off the yarn on the ws of the hat.
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VISOR:
MEASURING FOR VISOR WIDTH:
With the measuring tape, measure the distance between the 2 points on your forehead where you would like
the edges of the visor to fall. Using my choice of a 10” visor as an example, I would find the center stitch on
the garter edge(brim) of the hat and place a marker. I would then measure 5” from either side of the center
and place markers. Once the markers are in place, count the number of stitches from the center of the hat
to each of the markers(the number must be equal on both sides of the marker). Now, using the 3mm needles,
pick up and knit the number of stitches counted between the markers. This will allow you to knit the width
of the visor that you personally choose.
NOTE: I am using the number of stitches that I personally worked on for my adult size cap. If you wish to
personalize your visor you can easily work the same pattern as given until you arrive at the finished width
and length that you prefer.
Using size 3mm needles pick up and knit 44 stitches between the markers(22 stitches on either side of the
center marker). Work in garter stitch for 1-1/2”. Beginning on a right side row and continuing in garter stitch
work the decreases at the beginning of the next 25 rows as follows:Note that the last decrease before the
BO row is on the right side and there are 19 stitches remaining.
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(rs): Knit 1, K2tog, K to the end of the row
(ws): Knit 1, K2tog, K to the end of the row
With the wrong side facing BO in knit stitch as follows:
K1,K2tog,slip 1st st on the right needle over the 2nd st and then BO the remaining 16 stitches knitwise.
FINISHING:
Sew together the back seam of the hat using a mattress stitch and secure the edges of the visor securely to
the hat. BE COOL:)
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